Delicious - UK (February 2020)

delicious.






MASTERCLASS













Tricks, skills and know-how to help


you become a better cook














NAIL THE CLASSICS





LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES





ENHANCE YOUR KNO WLEDGE






















deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99

P E R F E C T A C L A S S I C



C A S S OUL E T











The hearty stew from southwest France never goes out of fashion. Cooking it
involves a bit of forward planning but the recipe is straightforward and it makes

a rib-stickingly good meal for a crowd on a winter’s night. Red wine at the ready...






• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs Cut in half, then set aside with
The recipe
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, • 1 garlic bulb, separated into cloves the duck legs.
SIMMERING TIME 1½ HOURS, OVEN TIME • 4 confit duck legs, fat reserved 4 Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C
1 HOUR 50-55 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING (see tips) fan/gas 1. Add the chopped
• 6 outdoor reared toulouse onion, carrot, celery and lardons
Once soaked and drained, sausages (or good quality pork to the hot casserole, then cook,
MAKE
AHEAD cover the beans and keep sausages) stirring occasionally, for 10
chilled for up to 24 hours. • 1 carrot, finely chopped minutes until the veg is soft and
Prepare and cover the veg up to 24 • 1 celery stick, finely chopped the lardons are golden.
hours ahead. Complete step 1 up to • 200g smoked bacon lardons 5 Peel the reserved garlic cloves
2 days ahead. Once cooled, cover • 2 tbsp tomato purée and add to the casserole with the
and chill the beans until needed. • Large handful fresh flatleaf tomato purée and parsley, then
When cooking the beans, parsley, chopped cook for a minute. Pour in the
FOOD
TEAM’S skim off any scum that • 200ml dry white wine wine, bring to a simmer, then
TIPS
forms on the surface and • 500ml chicken stock, hot, plus continue cooking until reduced
top up with boiling water as needed an extra splash if needed by about half. Stir in the stock,
to keep the beans well submerged. • 30g gruyère cheese, grated the remaining herbs and the
We used ready-cooked tinned • 50g fresh breadcrumbs cooked beans, then season well.
confit duck legs from Bespoke 6 Return the duck, skin-side up,
Foods (from Waitrose and Ocado). 1 Drain the beans, then transfer and sausages to the casserole
If you want to confit your own duck to a large heavy-based pan with the along with any resting juices,
legs, search ‘duck confit’ at onion halves, 2 of the bay leaves, stirring them into the beans,
deliciousmagazine.co.uk and 2 thyme sprigs, half the rosemary then put in the oven and bake for
start the recipe a day ahead. and all but 4 garlic cloves (no need 1½ hours. Check halfway
Don’t discard the fat from the to peel). Pour over water to cover, through, adding a little more
confit duck legs. Spoon into a jar or bring to the boil, then simmer for 1½ stock if the cassoulet looks dry.
sealable container and store in the hours until the beans are just tender. 7 Mix the grated cheese and RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
fridge for up to a month – it’s Drain and discard the onion, herbs breadcrumbs with salt and
fantastic for roasting potatoes. and garlic (see Make Ahead and tips). pepper, then sprinkle over the
2 Meanwhile, heat a deep hob-safe top of the dish.
• 500g haricot beans, soaked casserole over a high heat, add the 8 Bake the cassoulet for 20-25
overnight (see The Knowledge for duck legs and fry skin-side down for minutes more until the top is
soaking tips) 5 minutes until crisp. Set aside on golden. Serve scattered with
• 2 onions, 1 halved, 1 finely a baking tray and pour off most of extra thyme.
chopped the fat in the casserole (see tips). PER SERVING 656kcals, 27.8g
• 4 bay leaves 3 Add the sausages to the casserole fat (9.3g saturated), 46.3g
• 4 fresh thyme sprigs, plus extra and fry in the duck fat for protein, 42.1g carbs (6.4g
to garnish 5 minutes until browned all over. sugars), 2.2g salt, 17.3g fibre


100 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

MASTERCLASS: CLASSIC RECIPE















































































































NEXT
MONTH
Learn a lighter
French classic:
sole meunière

GOLDEN RULE S



















Small details mean the difference between a lacklustre

pancake and one that has everyone rolling up for more.
Make this year’s Shrove Tuesday, on the 25th, a night

to remember (and see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/pancakes
for filling ideas beyond the classic lemon and sugar)















HEAVY-BASED
NON-STICK PAN







CONSISTENCY OF
SINGLE CREAM






















WELL-RESTED
BATTER













HOT PAN
NEXT
MONTH
The golden rules for
crispy boulangère
potatoes


102 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

MASTERCLASS: GOLDEN RULES








The classic recipe
Your keys to success

MAKES 5-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS RESTING

THE RIGHT RATIO
T Make the batter a few hours ahead,
MAKE
The volume of milk will vary slightly
T AHEAD then leave to rest in the fridge until
d you’re ready to cook.
depending on the absorbency of your
flour – you’re looking for a batter with
fl
th • 125g plain flour
he consistency of single cream. You can
d • 1 medium free-range egg, beaten
double or treble the master recipe to
m • 275-300ml semi-skimmed milk
make as many pancakes as you need.
• Vegetable oil or butter for frying
REST • Caster sugar and lemon wedges to serve
Le g the batter rest for a few hours
a the gluten to relax and the starch 1 Sift the flour with a pinch of salt into a large
e fl our to soak up the liquid. The bowl. Make a well in the centre, pour in the egg,
s a softer, lighter pancake. then slowly whisk in enough milk to make a

smooth batter with the consistency of single
HT PAN cream. Set aside to rest for at least 20 minutes.
Use a heavy-based, non-stick frying pan, 2 Heat a 26-28cm frying pan over a medium heat.
as it will distribute a constant, even heat. Once hot, lightly oil the base of the pan (see left).
A shallow lip means you don’t have to get Add a small ladleful of batter, then tilt the pan to
too much height when flipping and you’re swirl the batter evenly over the base.
less likely to catch the pancake on the 3 Cook for 1-2 minutes until the pancake is set,
edge as it settles back down into the pan. golden underneath and coming away from the
pan at the edges. Loosen the pancake with a
OOD AMOUNT OF HEAT
A GO palette knife, then flip and cook for a further
e pan needs to be properly hot before
The 30-60 seconds until golden on both sides.
u start cooking. If you’re using butter
you 4 Slide the pancake onto a plate, then repeat
for frying it needs to foam when it hits until all the batter has been used up.
the pan, and oil should have a loose, 5 Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing
mmery consistency. Use a piece of
shim and sprinkle with caster sugar.
hen paper or a silicone pastry brush PER PANCAKE (FOR 6) 130kcals, 3.9g fat
o rush the fat over the base of the pan. (1g saturated), 5.1g protein, 18.3g carbs
(2.4g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.8g fibre
THO ROUGH COOKING PRE-FLIP
w the batter to cook on the first side
for sli han your instinct tellsy
you (if in doubt, lift the edge with a palette
knife to check the pancake has some
colour). To flip, loosen the pancake with a
e knife, then slide it towards the far
side of
f the pan before you toss. The other
side ne
eeds slightly less cooking time.

A EAT-COOK SYSTEM
kes need to be eaten straightaway.
F d eat. Work like a production line,
g turns. Roll or fold? Your choice.











RECIPE SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT
STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE



MASTERCLASS: COOKERY COURSE











P A R T 2 . S T I R - F R Y I N G


Learn to cook Thai









Mastering stir-frying a technique
that underpins Thai cuisine is the

topic for this month’s cookery class.
Kay Plunkett-Hogge’s recipe for tat soi

is quick to make and a proper taste
of the country she grew up in









































































PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH
STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 105

Pad pak tat soi fae paste and stir-fry for 2 minutes
How to master daeng (stir-fried until golden and fragrant. Add the
stir-frying, Thai style Thai-style tat soi) tat soi and continue stir frying
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SERVES 4 AS A SIDE. HANDS-ON for 1-2 minutes.
A proper wok is essential. It TIME 15 MIN 3 Add the sugar, oyster sauce,
won’t cost much, yet it will yellow bean sauce and a splash of
last. Make sure you season it “Traditionally, this is made water, stirring after each addition.
correctly before using for the with Thai morning glory 4 Stir-fry until bubbling fiercely
first time (see below). (pak boong), which you can (try to catch some red flame
HOW TO PREPARE AND find in Asian supermarkets. at the edge of the wok; see box,
SEASON A NEW WOK Here, I’m using tat soi, found far left), the tat soi leaves are
Before using a new wok for in some supermarkets and wilted and the stems are tender
the first time, you may have online at Ocado. It has the but still have some bite. If the
to first scrub off a protective requisite balance of bite dish looks a little dry at any
layer in hot soapy water, or in the stem and wilt in the point, add another splash of
you may have to burn the layer leaves. Pak choi does not. water. Serve immediately.
off over a flame – check the Depending on the season, PER SERVING 60kcals, 3.1g fat
manufacturer’s instructions I’ve also made this with fine (0.2g saturated), 2.2g protein,
to see what they advise. Next asparagus, which worked 4.9g carbs (3.5g sugars),
you have to season the wok: very well. Shredded cabbage 1.2g salt, 1.7g fibre
heat it over a high flame until would work too.”
hot, then add a couple of
tablespoons of oil, moving it Yellow bean sauce, also
KNOW- A BIT ABOUT KAYÉ
around the wok until the sold as salted soy beans,
HOW Born in Bangkok,
inside has turned completely is a sweet-salty sauce
she’s the author of
black. Set aside to cool, then made from salted and fermented Baan: Recipes and
discard the oil, wipe the wok yellow soy beans. We used Woh Stories from my Thai
clean with kitchen paper and Hup, available from Asian Home (Pavilion
Books) and several
you’re good to go. supermarkets and wingyip.com.
other books on
GET THE FLAVOUR RIGHT cocktails, aperitifs
The key is high heat. Even gas • 4 small garlic cloves, peeled and drinks.
hobs with a wok burner don’t • 1 long red or orange chilli,
give enough of it, but we have finely chopped
to make do with what we • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
have. If possible, try to catch • 250g tat soi (see Kay’s
a little of the flame in the wok, introduction), trimmed and
so the hot oil flares a little as chopped into even lengths
you toss the vegetables. Fae • 1 tsp caster sugar
daeng means ‘red fire’, and • 1-2 tbsp oyster sauce
this charred aroma, or ‘wok • 3 tbsp yellow bean sauce (see
breath’, is the secret to Know-how)
many Thai stir-fry dishes. • 2 tbsp water (if needed)
KEY TECHNIQUES
1 Get the wok hot before you YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
add the oil, then make sure • Good wok (see left); pestle
the oil is properly hot before and mortar
you start cooking.
2 Keep a mug of water handy 1 Using a pestle and mortar,
to add in: pour a little down pound the garlic, chilli and a
the side of the wok (not into pinch of salt to a coarse paste.
NEXT MISSED PART ONE?
MONTH the centre) any time the 2 Heat the wok over a high heat, Find the recipe for Thai green curry
Proper Thai dish looks too dry. then add the oil. Once it’s almost paste – and the curry to make with it
soup smoking, add the garlic and chilli – online at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

MASTERCLASS: COOKERY COURSE
























































































































deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107

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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109

T HE K NO WLEDGE










Tips, hacks and know-how in the kitchen, key techniques explained step by step, plus in-depth

appreciation of the best food and drink. Find it all and more, right here each month








MEET
OUR CHEESE EXPERTISE
FOOD

TEAM












JEN
BEDLOE
Food editor SPEEDY
PREP



To prepare the
Italian brassica

cavolo nero, hold
SOPHIE
AUSTEN-SMITH the stalk in one
Deputy food editor hand, grasp both
leafy sides – Baron bigod brie hearts

AT YOUR folding the leaf
SERVICE – then pull the Each month, for Valentine’s Day. Beneath the
We test every Patrick McGuigan soft, bloomy rind, the texture is
stalk away
recipe in our introduces an silky and gooey with punchy flavours
kitchen, and (discard stalks if exciting cheese of mushroom and cabbage.
the tips we woody or chop with solid cooking HOW TO EAT IT Serve on sourdough
know and and cook for an credentials. crispbread with a few slices of
discover are extra 2 minutes). There are few better ways to show pickled cabbage for contrasting
what you see love and devotion than with the gift crunch and acidity, or stud with
showcased in Cook briefly in of cheese, and this heart-shaped garlic and thyme, then bake in its
these pages. boiling water, then brie is guaranteed to make loved box until molten. Serve with crusty
If you’d like to refresh in cold ones swoon. Fen Farm Dairy in bread and cornichons for dunking.
put a question Bungay, Suffolk, normally makes its TRY IT WITH Bubbles are best for
water. Serve with
to the team, baron bigod (pronounced ‘by-god’) cutting through the richness. Try
email readers@ butter or whizz to in rounds using unpasteurised milk Ridgeview’s English sparkling wine
delicious a purée with olive from its herd of Montbéliarde cows Bloomsbury, which has refreshing
magazine.co.uk oil to add to and now also produces a heart- citrus notes, or go left-field with
shaped version under the sub-brand a crisp, cool pilsner lager.
risotto and pasta.
‘Baron Bigod I Love You’ – perfect BUY ONLINE AT fenfarmdairy.co.uk

MASTERCLASS: THE KNOWLEDGE











1 2














TREND TO TRY:
ORANGE WINE

OUR
WINNER: WHAT IS IT? A wine made
QUICK HOT-
from white grapes in which the
SOAK pressed grape juice is kept in
THE SIDE-BY-SIDE TEST lengthy contact with the skins

during and after fermentation.
SHOULD YOU SOAK DRIED BEANS? The result is a wine with a

deep orange colour. Flavour-
Some say soaking dried beans before cooking is unnecessary but we think wise, it tends to have less
the cooked texture is better as pre-soaking softens the skins and also speeds acidity than white, but with
up cooking. Please note: dried kidney beans (and cannellini and broad beans) some of the tannin and bitter
contain a toxin that needs to be neutralised by first boiling for 10 minutes, then edge of a red. It has been
discarding the water before further cooking. We tried two soaking methods. made for millennia – notably in
Georgia – but has recently had
METHOD 1 OVERNIGHT SOAK METHOD 2 QUICK HOT-SOAK a resurgence elsewhere in
Put the beans in a bowl and cover Put the beans in a pan, add cold water Europe, particularly among
with cold water (about 500ml per to cover, bring to the boil and boil for winemakers who make wines
100g beans). Soak the beans for at 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, using minimal intervention.
least 8 hours or overnight. Adding cover with the lid and leave to soak for DRINK IT WITH… Charcuterie,
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda to the an hour. Drain (discard the water), cheese and roast meat. Orange
water shortens the cooking time a bit then boil in fresh water until tender. wine is a good match for food
and results in softer beans. Drain the VERDICT This method requires a from the Middle East, Balkans
beans (discard the soaking water), little more effort but is a good and Caucasus, as well as spicy
put them in a pan, then boil in fresh solution when you’re short of time. Asian dishes.
water until tender. Larger/older It also results in beans that are …AND IN COOKING? Use to
beans will take longer. smoother in texture and creamy, not make a fantastic coq au vin or
VERDICT This method is simple and mealy. Some claim this method makes a fruity lamb braise.
doesn’t take much effort, but the the beans less gaseous, though we’ll WHERE TO BUY IT From good
beans are not cooked consistently, leave that up to you to find out. online wine merchants such as
with a marked contrast between the We conducted our test using dried Les Caves de Pyrene (lescaves.
firmness of the skins and the cannellini beans. See our cassoulet co.uk), and from Marks &
softness of the middles. recipe, made with dried beans, on p100 Spencer and Asda.






THE FOOD HACK

Watch how to slice and fan an avocado


to serve with brunch egg dishes or

simply to jazz up your avocado on toast. →



See the video now at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/skills


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 111

B U I L D Y O U R S E A F O O D S K I L L S




HOW TO SHUCK PACIFIC OYSTERS





IN THIS NEW SERIES, CJ JACKSON, SHELLFISH UK AMBASSADOR AND PRINCIPAL
OF THE SEAFOOD SCHOOL AT BILLINGSGATE (SEAFOODTRAINING.ORG), DELIVERS
KEY SKILLS IN CHOOSING, PREPPING AND COOKING FISH AND SEAFOOD.
“The taste and texture of oysters for opening some shellfish) is easy
vary hugely depending on where to do. If you don’t have a shucking
they’re grown; it’s worth trying ones knife, you can put Pacific oysters in
from different regions to compare a hot oven for a few moments and
the flavour. If you have an oyster they will open naturally – but they
knife, shucking (the technical term will be cooked.”



















1 2 3 4


EQUIPMENT OPEN THE OYSTER
I recommend using an oyster 3Once the blade is in, don’t
knife as I find it easier to fit push the knife any further, but
the sharp point in the hinge of twist or lever the blade to
the oyster, which prevents it dislocate the hinge – you’ll
slipping out. Shucking is easy hear a shucking noise that
to do: just take a deep breath, means the oyster has opened.
then follow my instructions. RELEASE THE
4TOP SHELL
Also sold as rock Run the knife blade across the
KNOW- oysters or Japanese underside of the top shell to 5 6
HOW
oysters, Pacific oysters cut the muscle attachment,
are available year-round. then pull the shell away. Try
to keep the liquid in the shell.
TO STORE Keep oysters in the fridge sitting rounded-side
PROTECT YOUR HANDS RELEASE THE OYSTER
down, so they don’t lose their liquid if they open up.
1Cradle the oyster, rounded- 5Using the point of the
TO COOK Try oysters grilled with dill, pastis and crème
side down, in a cloth to protect blade, cut the muscle under
fraîche with a sprinkling of grated parmesan.
your hands. Find the hinge at the oyster to release it from
CJ’S TIPS Make sure oysters are tightly closed before
the pointed end of the oyster, the rounded half of the shell.
opening. Oysters that are even slightly open won’t be safe
then push an oyster knife, with TURN OVER AND
to eat. Avoid drinking too much alcohol with oysters as the
the tip pointing down at the 6CHECK FOR SHELL
two don’t mix well. One glass of fizz is perfect.
board, into the crack between To serve, carefully roll the
the top and bottom shells. oyster over in the shell using
EMBED THE KNIFE the knife so the plump,
2Twist the knife, still rounded side of the oyster is READER OFFER
pointing down, to create a gap uppermost. Remove any loose CJ will be shucking oysters and giving a tasting at The Seafood PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID CHARBIT
School at Billingsgate, London E14, on Valentine’s Day, Friday
and slide the blade further into shards of shell. Tip away a tiny
14 February. To book for the discounted price of £70 (normally
the shell. Make sure the knife amount of juice from the oyster £75) for a couple, call 020 7517 3548 and mention delicious.
blade is embedded in the shell. as it will release more as it sits.


112 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

MASTERCLASS: THE KNOWLEDGE






THE GAME CHANGER ...OR TRY THESE RECIPES WITH
SEASONAL INGREDIENT PRESERVED LEMON, ONLINE NOW
KNOWLEDGE AT delciousmagazine.co.uk

5 WAYS WITH PRESERVED LEMON



1. SLICE the skin from 2 preserved lemons
(discard the flesh), then toss with just-
cooked couscous, a handful of toasted

chopped hazelnuts/walnuts, chopped fresh
coriander, flatleaf parsley and mint, a drizzle Pan-fried fish, spicy carrots
of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. & preserved lemon

Serve alongside fish or chicken.
WINTER TOMATOES 2. ADD finely sliced preserved lemon skin

BY CHEF AND
and a dash of its brine to a classic vinaigrette
FOOD WRITER
dressing and drizzle over a mixed green salad.
LUCAS HOLLWEG
3. STIR finely sliced preserved lemon skin

AREN’T TOMATOES into greek yogurt with a pinch of salt and
A SUMMER FRUIT? Usually,
pepper, grated cucumber, crushed garlic and Chicken & preserved
yes, but these are varieties lemon tagine
freshly chopped mint as a twist on tzatziki.
suited to the Mediterranean
winter season. 4. MIX finely chopped skin from 2 preserved
WHERE ARE THEY GROWN? lemons with 1 tsp each ground coriander and
Most come from Andalucía, cumin and ½ tsp paprika, then use as a rub
Sardinia and Sicily. Available
for lamb skewers before grilling.
from December to May,
5. SHAKE a classic martini, then add a dash
winter toms reach their peak
now. The lower winter levels of preserved lemon brine and a couple of
of sunshine and cold nights thin strips of skin to garnish. Serve ice-cold. Ultimate chicken tagine
mean the tomatoes have to
work hard to ripen, maturing
slowly from the inside out.
ON SALE NOW! TREATS FOR
TASTE & TEXTURE They
have an intense flavour
and a firm texture. In some TEA-TIME AND MUCH MORE
areas they’re fed slightly
salty water. This makes the Our new Essential
tomatoes smaller and Guide To... Cakes
boosts the flavour, which is
more umami than sweet. has a recipe for every
They’re best suited to salads. occasion, with step-
WINTER VARIETIES (from
natoora.com and ocado.com) by-steps to help you
Marinda (Sicily): a flavourful master key techniques
winter tomato, crunchy and and expert tips to
tart with a fluted body.
Camone (Sardinia): crunchy expand your know-
with a hint of a green top. how. Don’t start
Raf (Andalucía): ridged with
a flattish base, crisp savoury baking without it.
flesh and acidic seeds.
Black ibérico (Andalucía): £6.99 from Sainsbury’s, WH Smith,
claret-coloured and meaty M&S and selected Waitrose &
with almost salty flesh. Partners stores. Or subscribe to the
series at deliciousmagazine.co.uk →


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113

MASTERCLASS: THE KNOWLEDGE









LO OS E EN D S






Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen. Instead make

the most of them with these smart and easy ideas




orange juice with 1 tbsp each honey, veg. Sprinkle with fresh breadcrumbs
freshly grated ginger and olive oil. Stir and 30g grated parmesan/cheddar,
in a pinch of salt, then add 12 chicken then bake for 30 minutes until tender
wings and toss to coat. Cover and chill and golden. Serve with a Sunday roast.
overnight. Transfer to a baking sheet
and cook for 30-40 minutes at 200°C/ ANGOSTURA BITTERS
180°C fan/gas 6, basting a couple of CLASSIC
times, until sticky and cooked through. FROM WHISKEY SOUR
BRÛLÉED
PARTY POPPERS LEMON & LIME Pour 60ml bourbon
PUDDING
Mix 100g full-fat cream cheese with P66 whiskey, 60ml lemon
1 tbsp chilli sauce, a crushed garlic juice and 30ml sugar
clove and 20g grated cheddar. Halve syrup into a small jug filled with ice.
12 fresh jalapeños lengthways and Stir for 30 seconds to chill the drink,
deseed. Spoon the cream cheese then strain into a tumbler, adding
mixture into each half, cover and chill a few cubes of ice, a good dash
FILO PASTRY
CRUNCHY for 30 minutes. Put 3 tbsp plain flour, of Angostura bitters, a slice
FROM SWEET PUDDING TOPPER 2 beaten eggs and 6-8 tbsp panko of lemon and a maraschino
POTATO &
CHORIZO Heat the oven to breadcrumbs in 3 separate shallow cherry. Serve straightaway.
FILO PIES 200°C/180°C fan/gas bowls. Dip the stuffed chilli halves in ANGOSTURA GLAZED HAM
P80
6. Brush 3 filo pastry flour, egg, then breadcrumbs to fully Search ‘baked picnic ham with
sheets with 2-3 tsp melted butter and coat. Deep fry in batches, then serve pineapple and chilli glaze’ at
drizzle with runny honey, then sprinkle with extra chilli sauce for dipping. deliciousmagazine.co.uk, then
with 2-3 tsp sesame seeds. Lay each add 1 tsp Angostura bitters to
sheet on an oven shelf, then bake for CELERY the glaze in step 3.
2-3 minutes until golden and crisp. LIGHTER WALDORF
Remove the sheets, leave to cool, FROM SALAD
RICK STEIN’S
then break into shards and sprinkle Thinly chop 3 celery
SIMPLE FISH
over ice cream for a speedy pud. STEW sticks, 6 radishes and
P36
FILO FISH PIE ½ bunch spring
Search ‘all-in-one potato, onions, then toss with 1 cored and
spinach and caper fish pie’ at finely chopped apple. Mix 150g greek
deliciousmagazine.co.uk and replace yogurt, 50g mayo and the juice and
the puff pastry with 5-6 filo pastry zest of ½ lemon with a splash of
sheets. Brush the sheets with 2-3 water to make a dressing, then pour
tbsp melted butter, then scrunch up over the salad. Toss, then scatter
to cover the pie filling. Bake for 20-30 with a few toasted chopped walnuts
minutes until the pie is piping hot and serve alongside grilled meats.
and the pastry is crisp and golden. CREAMY CELERY & LEEK GRATIN
Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
gas 5. Cut 3 celery sticks and 2 leeks
LINGHAM’S CHILLI
in half lengthways, then cut into 5cm WORDS: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. ILLUSTRATIONS: ALICE CLEARY
SAUCE WITH GARLIC
HOT AND SWEET pieces and put in an ovenproof frying
FROM CHICKEN WINGS pan. Add 25g butter and a splash of
LEFTOVER
ROAST LAMB In a large mixing bowl, oil, then gently fry for 5 minutes until
STIR FRY
P78 combine 2 tbsp each starting to soften. Mix 100ml chicken
chilli sauce, crushed or veg stock with 3 tbsp double cream
garlic, soy sauce, brown sugar and and seasoning, then pour onto the


114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Cuppa time puzzles.















to be had with our new page of brain teasers




44 1 2 3 4 5 44 There are prizes to be won and foodie fun
The edible fruit of the
44 44 44 44 44 44 44
THE 5West Indian locust
6 44 7 8 delicious. tree is called
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FOOD QUIZ
44 44 44 44 44 b) Old lady’s finger
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2 Italian city famous for its ham, cheese... and purple sweets? (5] c) Breadfruit plants c) Chillies
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115

HOLID A Y GEM



THE PLACE






NO ONE







YOU KNOW







WILL HAVE







BEEN TO







If you yearn to get off the tourist trail

and go somewhere a bit different in the
new decade, be sure to add the Faroe

Islands to your bucket list. First-timer
John Gregory-Smith is blown away

by the landscape, impressed by the
emerging restaurant scene – and nearly

convinced by the fermented lamb



PHOTOGRAPHS NASSIMA ROTHAKER

hungry traveller.







had long been enchanted by
images of the Faroe Islands, of
I its great waterfalls cascading
into the North Atlantic from misty
mountain peaks. When I finally
made it to this far-flung archipelago,
it was as incredible as I’d hoped.
Towering cliffs give way to rolling
shrubland dotted with picturesque
houses, and mighty rivers flow into
crystal-clear lakes at the bottom of
vast valleys. It’s wild and rugged,
brilliant for hiking, the Faroese are
charming, and everyone in this
self-governing Danish region of
some 50,000 inhabitants speaks
immaculate English.
I also discovered a new cuisine,
one wholly interwoven with the
local environment. The air is salty
and the winds strong, so trees don’t
grow here. Only a few hardy root
vegetables are grown locally – beets,
turnips, radishes, swede, potatoes,
carrots and jerusalem artichokes –
with the majority of fresh produce
being imported from Denmark. The
Faroese use what they can from
the sea, air and land, and produce
excellent seafood: scallops, mussels,
cod and, controversially, pilot whale.
The total solar eclipse experienced
here in March 2015 shone a light on
the region, and tourism to the Faroe
Islands has since risen steadily. Add
to that a younger generation of chefs
keen to travel and experiment,
and you have the makings of
an emergent, creative food scene.

CAPITAL DINING

Most of the eating-out action
happens in the capital Tórshavn.
At its centre is Vestaravag, a bustling
little harbour with boats bobbing
in gin-clear water and brightly
painted buildings lining the shore.
The Tarv (tarv.fo) grill house
specialises in local seafood such
as juicy scallops with cauliflower
purée. Lamb from the hardy local
Faroese breed is another speciality
– but there’s imported US beef and

The Faroe Islands Spanish ibérico pork fillet for the
lie, battered by the lamb-shy.
sea, between Iceland The nearby fish market is open
and Scotland
on Fridays and Saturdays, if the →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Turf roof, a traditional Scandinavian
building technique; Faroe sheep
outnumber people on the islands;
Tórshavn’s pretty harbour,
Vesteravag; fish drying in the salty
wind; the islands’ northerly location
means sunshine is rare in winter













































FAROE ISLANDS
Kalsoy Kunoy Viooy
Eysturoy Fugloy



Svinoy
l Lake
Streymoy Saksunarvatu
Borooy
Lake
Leynavatn
Gásadalur l l fishermen have had a good week. wine list and a short modern menu
Airport
l
Mykines Norwegian You can buy saltfiskur – salt cod that includes grilled langoustines,
Vágar TÓRSHAVN – from Mortans, a wonderful old crab claws with a herb dipping sauce,
Lake l l Sea
Leitisvatn fisherman with a terrific twinkle in and blue mussels caught in the
Koltur Nólsoy
Hestur his eye. Carry on walking around waters next to the village of Kaldbak.
the quay and you’ll find Skeiva For sweet indulgence, put your
Pakkhús (skeivapakkhus.fo), an feet up and enjoy a slice of cake and
Sandoy
North Italian-inspired restaurant run by steaming coffee at Paname Café
Atlantic Skúvoy Johannes Jensen, who runs 15 (facebook.com/paname.fo). Pastry
Ocean establishments on the islands. I chef Niels Brogaard Á Rógvu has
loved head chef Henry Samuelsen’s gained a reputation for having the
Stóra Dimun
ravioli stuffed with salt cod and best desserts in town – his carrot
Litla Dimun served with a slick of brown butter. cake is seriously impressive.
Set back from the harbour is lamb
and seafood specialist Áarstova PRESERVING TRADITION
Suouroy
(aarstova.fo), in a traditional wooden After checking out a number of
building. Expect a warm welcome restaurant menus, it struck me how
N at nearby Barbara Fish House many dried and preserved foods

(barbara.fo), as well as a cracking there were. The climate is harsh

hungry traveller.

















































































and without a means of keeping
food for the long, cold winters, the EAT WITH THE LOCALS FEBRUARY
islanders simply could not have In most countries, home cooking finale was a huge leg of lamb, AVERAGES
survived. Fortunately, the is often the best food you will roasted with wild herbs and l HIGH TEMP
combination of strong, drying taste and it’s no different on the served with spiced red cabbage 6°C (13°C in
wind and salty air makes long- Faroe Islands. Oli and Anna run and caramelised potatoes. July/August)
term preservation of the local a sensational supper club or Each course is served with
lamb and cod possible. heimablídni, on Saturday nights a beer from their local brewery, l LOW TEMP
For about 10 weeks between at their home in the picturesque Okkara, meaning ‘ours’. It’s a 1°C (9°C in
October and December, nearly every village of Velbastaður. great opportunity to learn more July/August)
household on the islands hangs up Our group of eight took a seat about the islands and a chance to
whole lamb legs in open-sided in their Scandi-cool kitchen, meet interesting characters over l DAYLIGHT
wooden sheds next to the house overlooking the ocean, and dinner. The meal starts at 7.30pm HOURS 8.5
to naturally ferment or ræst. The tucked into an epic feast of and costs £115 per person. (19.3 in June)
finished product has a strong smell heavenly cooking. We started Visit the Faroe Islands website
and distinct flavour that’s not for the with silky soft salmon tartare, (visitfaroeislands.com/see-do/ l RAINY
faint-hearted. At this stage it can be then dived into a dish of salt cod dining/heimablidni) for details DAYS 24
boiled or roasted – or the meat can and potatoes (see p121). The of heimablídni hosts. (17 in July)
be hung further to dry to become →


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119

CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
Traditional Faro
village; The
Tarv grill house;
Paname Café
cheesecake;
Italian-inspired
Skeiva Pakkhús
and salt cod ravioli



skerpikjøt. The look and taste of the
dried stuff is similar to European
GET HIKING
charcuterie. Fish such as local cod is
Pack your sturdy boots and explore the • Leitisvatn (Hanging Lake) To get the air-dried and fermented in a similar
ancient footpaths that carve up the dramatic ultimate social media snap, head to Vágar way to make ræstur fiskur. If you’re
landscape. Here are three top walks. to see Leitisvatn, the largest lake on the tempted by these Faroese delicacies
• Saksun to Tjørnuvik From the village of islands. The lake sits above the ocean with have dinner at Ræst (raest.fo/raest)
Saksun on Streymoy island, there’s an a spectacular waterfall spilling into the sea. in Tórshavn, where the set menu
enjoyable scenic walk over to the next Book a day with guide Jóhannus Hansen costs around £80 per person.
village, Tjørnuvik (about 8km). from Reika Adventures (reika.fo), who The Faroe Islands’ starriest
• Gásadalur This remote village on Vágar can take you into the more remote restaurant (one of Johannes Jensen’s
island is a picture-perfect spot. The river parts of the islands. A two to three- portfolio) is the two-Michelin-star
flows below the houses and the roaring hour hike costs DKK500-700 Koks (koks.fo). It was set up in
Múlafossur waterfall tumbles down into (£60-80) per person Tórshavn in 2011 under pioneering
the ocean. It’s a bracing two-hour hike for groups of up Faroese chef Leif Sørensen, but
over the headland. to four. when current head chef Poul
Andrias Ziska took the reins in
2014, they moved the restaurant to
the secluded valley of Leynavatn,
14 miles northwest of the capital.
Housed in a traditional turf-
roofed house beside a lake and
surrounded by hills, Koks is truly
breathtaking. After a welcome
drink in a wheeled fermentation
hut called a skerpi, guests are
driven over to the restaurant and
treated to an 18-course tasting

hungry traveller.








WHERE TO STAY

l Havgrim Seaside Hotel on This is my take on
the seafront in Tórshavn has a dish served as part
cosy rooms kitted out with
swanky accessories. Doubles of Oli and Anna’s
from £255. hotelhavgrim.fo supperclub feast.
l Stay at Gásadalsgarður
Guesthouse in remote
Gásadalur and you can wake
up to the views of Múlafossur
Waterfall. Doubles from £80.
facebook.com/gasadalsgardur


GETTING THERE
Daily flights to the Faroe
Islands (from Copenhagen
to Vágar) cost from £185pp
return with Atlantic Airways
(atlantic.fo). From March to
December, Atlantic Airways
operates twice-weekly flights
from Edinburgh from £185pp
return; Atlantic Airways also
flies direct from Paris.
For more information, see
visitfaroeislands.com




menu. Ziska’s dishes explore the TRY THIS AT HOME...
possibilities of the local ingredients,
from raw scallops to sturgeon Salt cod and potatoes pan over a medium-high heat. Add the
caviar and majestic mahogany SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH. HANDS-ON TIME potatoes and fry for 8-10 minutes, shaking
clams, huge molluscs that can live 40 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING the pan occasionally, until golden. Remove
for up to 500 years. Next comes from the pan and keep warm.
puffin head, complete with beak, • 300g salt cod (from brindisa.co.uk) 5 Reduce the heat to medium, add the cod
and finally whale heart. The • 500g baby new potatoes, halved and cook skin-side down for 8 minutes or
atmosphere is jovial and staff are • 2 medium free-range eggs so until the flesh firms/turns paler. Remove
warm and welcoming, all wearing • 1 tbsp olive oil from the pan and flake the fish off the skin
casual black clothes and killer • 35g butter into a bowl (discard the skin and any bones).
silver trainers. Attention to detail • 150g good quality mayonnaise 6 Heat a large clean frying pan over a
is impeccable. The tasting menu • Handful finely chopped fresh dill medium heat. Melt the butter and cook for
RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GREGORY-SMITH
costs DKK1,900 (£213) without • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon about a minute until it smells nutty. Add
drinks per person, but it’s an the potatoes and a sprinkle of pepper, then
unforgettable experience. Michelin 1 The day before you want to eat, rinse the mix. Remove from the heat, add the cod
dining doesn’t usually do it for me. salt cod under cold water to remove as and lemon juice, then gently toss together.
I like a table filled with food rather much salt as you can. Put it in a bowl and 7 Mix the mayonnaise in a bowl with most of
than a few morsels artfully cover with cold water, then leave overnight the dill, the lemon zest and a little pepper.
arranged on a plate. Koks, however, in the fridge. The next day, drain and rinse 8 To serve, divide the fish and potatoes
like everything in the Faroe Islands, again under cold water, then pat dry. among 4 serving plates and add half a soft-
surprised me and I loved it. 2 Boil the potatoes in a pan of salted water boiled egg. Spoon the juices from the pan
At every twist and turn this for 10-12 minutes until tender, then drain. over the fish and sprinkle with the rest of
isolated archipelago got better and 3 Meanwhile, boil the eggs for 5-6 minutes, the dill. Serve with the dill mayonnaise.
better, unravelling into one of the then put in a bowl of iced water to stop them PER SERVING 619kcals, 41.4g fat
most magical experiences of my cooking. Once cool, peel and set aside. (7.9g saturated), 40.5g protein, 20.1g carbs
life. Get out there and get stuck in. 4 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying (2.5g sugars), 1.1g salt, 2.3g fibre
I can’t recommend it enough.


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121

B I T E - S I Z E B R E A K



D U B R O V N I K

























































HISTORY BY THE
SEA (CLOCKWISE WALK THE WALLS CATCH A SUNSET TABLE WITH A VIEW
FROM ABOVE) The imposing medieval walls Don’t miss golden hour as the In 2018, the striking restaurant
View from the of Dubrovnik are the city’s sun sets. In the heart of the 360º (360dubrovnik.com), with
walls across
to Lovrijenac centrepiece. Stari Grad, or Old Old Town, The Bar by Azur dining terraces built into the
fortress; grilled Town, is a UNESCO protected (thebardubrovnik.com) mixes a historic city walls, became the first
octopus at Orsan heritage site and retains impressive mean martini, and indoor and restaurant in Dubrovnik to receive
restaurant, remnants of Middle Ages outdoor seating make it the go-to a Michelin star. Expect fine dining
Lapad; Stradun,
the main street fortification. The best way to see spot year-round. In spring and (dinner only; bookings essential)
through the Old the city is on a guided walk of the summer, visit Buža bar with a contemporary twist on local
Town; dessert at walls. Dubrovnik Walks offers (Crijevi´ceva ul. 9). The classics. Sensus, set
Posat restaurant;
the walls and Game of Thrones – the King’s name means ‘hole-in- within the plush Hotel
cliffs of the city; Landing sequences were filmed the-wall’, and you FEBRUARY Excelsior (adriatic
cable car going here – and Walls and Wars tours know you’ve arrived AVERAGES luxuryhotels.com)
up to Mount Srd
(dubrovnikwalks.com; €20 per when you stumble l HIGH TEMP: delivers more sweeping
person, plus city walls entrance upon the sign in an 12°C (30°C in views of the walls and
fee). Walks last for two hours and alley that reads ‘Cold August) the sea, and dishes
offer spectacular views of the drinks with the most l LOW TEMP: 5°C such as red prawn
terracotta tiled rooftops, ancient beautiful view’. This (20°C in August) carpaccio, pan-fried
gates and fortresses and labyrinth place literally hangs off l HOURS OF lobster tails or grilled
of narrow streets. a cliff edge, with tables SUNSHINE: 7 sea bass with fennel
Or for the best overview of the nestled between rocks. (13 in July/August) cream reveal
city and nearby islands, take the Drinks aren’t the best l NUMBER OF impressive cooking. PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES
cable car (dubrovnikcablecar.com) or cheapest, but the RAINY DAYS: 12
from just outside the walls to the views over the Adriatic (5 in August) FUSION DINING
top of Mount Srd. compensate. If you need a break

hungry traveller.






































































from Dalmatian cuisine, try Azur mother’s and grandmother’s shellfish and try the squid ink
(azurvision.com). Through their cooking, sisters Marija and Ana risotto, a Dalmatian speciality.
travels, Dubrovnik brothers Darko of Dubrovnik Food Story Enjoy king prawns buzara (in
´ have put
and Vedran Perojevic (dubrovnikfoodstory.com) have a tomato and white wine sauce)
together a menu marrying Croatian transformed their passion into food or have the catch of the day grilled
cuisine with Asian-inspired flavours. and wine experiences. Or spend half whole, then filleted tableside. This
Weather permitting, white wooden a day with Dubrovnik Wine Tours is casual seafood dining at its best.
tables outdoors contrast with the city (dubrovnikwinetours.com) pairing
walls and, inside, oriental rugs line local oysters and wine in the
the floor. Look out for dishes such medieval town of Ston (€70 per WHERE TO STAY GETTING THERE
as Korean beef sliders, fragrant person), a short drive up the coast. • HOTEL EXCELSIOR, Several airlines offer
meatballs in curry coconut sauce just outside the Old daily direct flights to
and local seafood on the menu. Taj SEAFOOD FEASTING Town, has private beach Dubrovnik from the UK
Mahal (tajmahal-dubrovnik.com) in Outside the city walls by Pile Gate, access, stylish rooms from £82 return (check
the Old Town offers contemporary Posat (posat-dubrovnik.com) serves and suites, plus a spa. skyscanner.net and
Bosnian fare of meat dishes, kebabs, upscale fare such as grilled lobster Doubles from £195. britishairways.com).
Turkish-inspired desserts and coffee. and tuna tartare with balsamic adriaticluxuryhotels.com If visiting in July or
vinegar pearls. Or take a 3km bus- August, choose the less
CULINARY EXPERIENCES ride northwest (from Pile station) to • DOMINUS LITTLE crowded coastal resort

Croatia’s young entrepreneurs are the quieter seaside resort of Lapad. PALACE is a luxury five- areas of Babin Kuk and
thriving, as the constant flow of A short walk off the main drag, the bedroom guesthouse Lapad (or Cavtat, 30
tourists gives them the chance to fairy lights of Orsan restaurant inside the city walls, minutes away by boat).
showcase the local cuisine through (restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com) with rooms from £95. For more information
foodie walks, wine tastings and shimmer on the water by the yacht dominus-dubrovnik.com go to visitdubrovnik.hr
cookery classes. Inspired by their club’s marina. Start with sautéed


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123

Easter is coming…












ON



SALE
1 MARCH































































ALL THE COOKERY INSPIRATION YOU NEED

l The world’s best egg recipes, sweet and savoury – including breakfast Yorkshire pud!

l Barnstorming bank holiday baking – are you ready for hot-cross millionaire’s shortbread?

Vivek Singh’s Indian feasting menu for a special celebration
l
A dream team of chefs and food writers create the ultimate Easter lunch
l




MASTERCLASS: BACON BOULANGÈRE AND PROPER THAI SOUPS

next month.







Wonderful feasting, recipes





and stories to spark spring joy










































































PLUS


Delia’s chocolate
SO MANY GOOD THINGS TO READ...

l A golden-age Hollywood musical, a grand TV dinner bread and butter

and a good bottle of wine – that’s Friday night sorted pudding (need we

Why the pasty isn’t really Cornish – and other food myths say more?)
l
Do we need to wake up to the dangers of caffeine?
l




TRAVEL: DRINK IN THE MAGIC OF NEW ORLEANS




deliciousmagazine.co.uk 125

for your records.







FEBRUARY 2020


R E C I P E I N D E X










































28




STARTERS & NIBBLES • Egg-in-the-hole with bacon and avocado 57 • Falafel curry with spinach 77
• Halloumi fries 7 • Fragrant lamb and orzo casserole 94 • Harira 96
• Red onion soup with cheesy sourdough • Lamb with white beans, tomato and • Indian spiced root vegetables 98
melts 51 jalapeños 98 • Onion bhajis with yogurt & goat’s cheese
• Leftover roast lamb stir-fry 78 dip 43
SIDE DISHES • Liver, bacon and onions 43 • Onion porridge with roasted onions
• Caramelised apples 51 • Oven-baked meatballs with polenta and thyme 45
• Herby hasselback potatoes 52 and tomato sauce 30 • Pad pak tat soi fae daeng (stir-fried
• Pizza al taglio 28 Thai-style tat soi) 106
MAIN COURSES • Pork rib ragù with tagliatelle 30 • Spicy bean stew with crispy cauli
POULTRY • Slow-roast pork belly with lemon, topping 79
• Chicken cordon bleu bake 83 parsley and caper gremolata 52 • 10-minute mushroom pappardelle 80
• Chicken, date and olive tagine 96 • Sweet potato and chorizo filo pies 80
• Grilled tumeric chicken with smashed • Steak diane with roast potatoes 86 SWEET THINGS AND DRINKS
cucumber salad 82 • Venison, onion and red wine pie 44 • Blood orange tart with cardamom
• Lemon chicken with bitter greens 28 cream 54
• Sticky sriracha chicken rice with charred FISH AND SEAFOOD • Brûléed lemon and lime pudding 66
veg 83 • Rick Stein’s simple fish stew 36 • Golden syrup pudding with pistachio
• Winter citrus, chicken & halloumi salad 74 • Roast sea bream with fennel, sourdough crumble 66
• 50/50 burgers 80 and preserved lemons 46 • Mulled chai cider 51
• Salt cod and potatoes 121 • Poached rhubarb and orange pudding 69
BEEF, LAMB, PORK AND GAME • Quick lemon and ginger fool 86
• Bangers braised in cider 60 VEGETARIAN, VEGAN & VEGETABLE-BASED • Salted chocolate and pretzel cookies 63
• Cassoulet 100 • Classic pancakes 103 • Sticky date pudding with banana praline 69


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a good rant.


















































Flippin’ ’eck, says Katy Salter – how can something
so basic be marketed with complicated kits, plastic

lemons and weird additives? It’s time we rediscovered
the beautiful simplicity of Shrove Tuesday




here’s a Pancake Day display in scratch seem a bit, well, scary? worked for a well-known cooking website,
my local supermarket. Lined up Plus, if you convince shoppers that they it crashed on Pancake Day because so
T on the shelves are ‘pancake pans’, can’t make a batter themselves, then you many thousands of people were Googling
bottles of ‘pancake mix’, plastic lemons can sell them a mix chock-full of additives ‘how to make pancakes’. (You can,
filled with something that was – for 16 times the price per kilo as a bag of however, simply turn to p102 for the
presumably – once lemon juice, jars of plain flour (plain flour from my local delicious. pancake-making masterclass.)
chocolate spread and packs of ready-made supermarket costs 40p/kg. A bottle of Whether you like your pancakes with
crepes. You need to really hunt around the lemon and sugar, chocolate and chopped
store to find the only items necessary to nuts or bacon and maple syrup, know this:
Pancake mix costs
make pancakes: flour, eggs, milk. you don’t need packet mix, you don’t need
For carb lovers and connoisseurs of 16 times as much per kilo those ready-made scotch pancakes (I’d
low-budget fried things, Pancake Day is rather eat a bath sponge) and you certainly
as plain flour
a highlight of the culinary calendar. It don’t need an electric crepe maker.
involves no gifts, no expensive outlay, no pancake mix costs £6.45/kg). It’s full of Let’s return Pancake Day to its origins as
weeks of planning, just a frying pan and grim extras, too. Mmmmm, I love the a low-fi, low-budget occasion. Let’s use it
ingredients you almost certainly have in smell of whey powder, palm oil, dextrose as an opportunity to teach children how
your cupboards. Yet Shrove Tuesday has and dried egg yolk in the morning. to cook – to get them measuring, whisking
been hijacked by the marketeers. They’re Ironically, Pancake Day began life as a and flipping. Let’s spread the word about
trying to convince us that making day of thrift. Shrove Tuesday marks the last how sometimes the best dishes can be the
pancakes is somehow a tricky endeavour day in the Christian calendar before Lent. simplest and quickest ones to cook. And
that requires pre-made mixes and Worshippers were encouraged to eschew let’s stay well away from the bottles of
specialist equipment. It doesn’t. rich foods such as eggs and milk for Lent, dextrose and dried egg yolk.
Why does this matter? These products so whisking up pancakes was about using PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES/H ARMSTRONG ROBERTS
seem innocuous but I think they discourage up what was in the cupboard, not racing
Do you agree with Katy or do
people from cooking at home. If something to the supermarket to buy new stuff. you take a different view? Tell us
as simple as making pancakes requires Perhaps Pancake Day’s religious roots at [email protected]
special mixes, then doesn’t that make the don’t matter any more. The batter treats and we’ll print the best replies
whole concept of cooking meals from are so popular these days that, when I


130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk