(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Pacific Northwest

THE P A CIFIC NOR THWEST A T A GLANCE  49

Sinclair Pass, located on the
parkway that cuts through
British Columbia’s Kootenay
National Park, is surrounded
by the high walls of Sinclair
Canyon, a red limestone gorge.
Fort Nelson It is just one of many natural
wonders that attracts visitors to
this national park, which covers
543 sq miles (1,406 sq km) of
diverse terrain (see p269).



Fort Steele Heritage Town is
a re-created BC mining town.
The original town of Fort Steele
was established in 1864 after
gold was discovered nearby.
Smithers When its fortunes faded, it
became a ghost town – until
reconstruction began in 1961
(see p268).
Prince
George




North Pacific
Ocean

Kamloops

Kelowna Whatcom Museum, in
Bellingham, Washington,
houses many excellent
Vancouver exhibits on the First
Nations peoples of
Victoria the Pacific Northwest
coast (see p184).
Spokane
Seattle
Vineyards on Canoe Ridge
Tacoma supply the well-known
Washington winery Chateau
Ste. Michelle, the oldest
winery in the state (see p185).
Portland Pendleton
Salem

Eugene


Burns
Junction
Medford
Granite, in Oregon, once a
thriving Gold Rush town, is now
a ghost town (see p116).




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US_PNW_050-051_PortlandOpen.indd 50 04/07/2014 17:25
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

portland





Introducing Portland 52–53

Old Town and
the Pearl District 54–59
Downtown 60–69

Farther Afield 70–79















































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52  INTRODUCING POR TLAND

Portland at a Glance

Portland enhances its beautiful natural surroundings with a
healthy dose of urban vitality and a relaxed yet sophisticated
lifestyle. Spectacular parks and gardens flourish throughout
the City of Roses. Historic landmarks and neighborhoods
show off the city’s commitment to preserving its rich past,
while Pioneer Courthouse Square, a bustling pedestrian-only
space in the heart of what is now the city center, reflects the Pearl District
effective urban planning that makes Portland so pleasant. Portland has reclaimed this
Meanwhile, the city continues to enhance its many charms former industrial district as
with locales such as the Pearl District, a neighborhood that its neighborhood for art
galleries, boutiques, restaur­
has emerged out of an old industrial area. ants, and sophisticated urban
living (see pp58–9).




Portland Streetcar OLD TOWN
Modern, low­slung trams AND THE
link Nob Hill, the Pearl PEARL DISTRICT
District, and downtown (See pp54–59)
NORTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY
Portland. Not only is a ride
a handy way to get around NORTHWEST GLISAN STREET
town, it’s also one of the
most economical (see p67). NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET
Sentinel Hotel
Early 20th­century grandeur WEST BURNSIDE STREET
prevails at the Sentinel Hotel.
Murals in the ground­floor
Jake’s Grill honor an earlier
chapter of local history –
the Lewis and Clark SOUTHWEST ALDER STREET
Expedition (see pp64–5).
SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE DOWNTOWN
SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON STREET




(See pp60–69)

Portland Art Museum SOUTHWEST BROADWAY SOUTHWEST MADISON STREET
The holdings of the oldest art SOUTHWEST COLUMBIA STREET
museum in the Pacific Northwest
include European paintings, Asian SOUTHWEST MARKET STREET
ceramics, and Native American
basketry (see p66).






South Park Blocks
A farmers’ market takes place every Saturday
in Portland State University’s elm­shaded 0 meters 300
lawns, laid out in 1852 (see p66). 0 yards 300
South Waterfront Park and downtown Portland bathed in morning light



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POR TLAND A T A GLANCE  53













Powell’s City of Books
The largest independent bookstore in the world
houses more than a million volumes (maps of the Lan Su Chinese Garden
store are provided) and is one of Portland’s most This Ming Dynasty-style walled garden,
popular spots (see p59). with its tile-roofed pavilions, embodies
traditional Chinese concepts of harmony
and tranquility (see p58).



OLD TOWN
AND THE
PEARL DISTRICT
NORTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY
(See pp54–59) Pioneer
Court house Square
NORTHWEST GLISAN STREET At the city center is a
welcoming expanse
NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET of brick paving where
Portlanders gather,
come rain or shine
(see p64).
WEST BURNSIDE STREET




SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE DOWNTOWN
SOUTHWEST ALDER STREET
SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON STREET



SOUTHWEST BROADWAY SOUTHWEST MADISON STREET long stretch of Willamette
(See pp60–69)
Governor Tom McCall
Waterfront Park
Portland has reclaimed
this 1.5-mile- (2.5-km-)
River waterfront as a park,
waterside promenade,
SOUTHWEST COLUMBIA STREET
and locale for the Rose
Festival and other public
SOUTHWEST MARKET STREET
celebrations (see pp68–9).
Keller Auditorium
Keller Auditorium hosts
operas and Broadway
shows; the adjacent Ira Keller
Memorial Fountain suggests
the waterfalls of the Cascade
Mountains (see p69).




US_PNW_052-053_Flashmap.indd 53 04/07/16 12:33 pm

Broadway Bridge
NW MARSHALL STREET

NW LOVEJOY STREET
NW KEARNEY ST Willamette River
Union N O R T H W E S T N A I T O PA R K W AY
NW JOHNSON STREET NORTHWEST BROADWAY Station
NW IRVING ST NORTHWEST 11TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 10TH AVENUE NW 9TH AVE NW PARK AVE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET
Union Station/ Steel Bridge
NW 5th & Glisan
Union Station/
Greyhound
NW GLISAN STREET NW 6th & Hoyt St Bus Terminal
NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET NW 8TH AVENUE NW 6TH AVENUE NW 5TH AVENUE NW 4TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET Old Town/
NORTH Chinatown GOVERNOR
PARK
BLOCKS CHINATOWN TOM McCALL
NORTHWEST DAVIS STREET WATERFRONT
NW Davis NW 5th & PARK
Couch SOUTHWEST NAITO PARK WAY
NORTHWEST COUCH STREET NW 3RD AVENUE NW 2ND AVENUE NW 1ST AVENUE
OLD TOWN
NW 13TH AVENUE
NW 12TH AVENUE
(SKIDMORE)
NW 14TH AVENUE
WEST BURNSIDE STREET
Skidmore Burnside Bridge
Fountain
SOUTHWEST ANKENY STREET
SW OAK STREET
SW Pine SW ASH STREET
SW 5th
& Oak SW PINE STREET
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POR TLAND  55

OLD TOWN AND THE
PEARL DISTRICT

Portland grew up along the west bank of the moved inland in the late 19th century, when
Willamette River. Following its establishment the arrival of the railroad reduced river trade.
in 1843, it became a major port, and docks in Declared a National Historic Landmark in
the riverfront quarter now known as Old 1975, Old Town is now once again a popular
Town were often lined with schooners that part of the city. Many 19th-century buildings
sailed across the Pacific Ocean to China and have been restored, and a Chinese-American
around Cape Horn to the east coast of the US. business community still operates here. The
Old Town was the city’s commercial center Pearl District, an early 20th-century industrial
and home to many Asian immigrants who area west of Old Town, has also been
came to work at the port. The city center transformed into a trendy neighborhood.
Sights at a Glance
Gardens and Districts Museums
3 Lan Su Chinese Garden 1 Oregon Maritime Center
4 Pearl District and Museum
Shops and Markets
2 Portland Saturday Market
0 meters 200 5 Powell’s City of Books See also Street Finder maps
1 and 2
0 yards 200

Broadway Bridge
NW MARSHALL STREET

NW LOVEJOY STREET
NW KEARNEY ST Willamette River
Union N O R T H W E S T N A I T O PA R K W AY
NW JOHNSON STREET NORTHWEST BROADWAY Station
NW IRVING ST NORTHWEST 11TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 10TH AVENUE NW 9TH AVE NW PARK AVE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET
Union Station/ Steel Bridge
NW 5th & Glisan
Union Station/
Greyhound
NW GLISAN STREET NW 6th & Hoyt St Bus Terminal
NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET NW 8TH AVENUE NW 6TH AVENUE NW 5TH AVENUE NW 4TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET Old Town/
NORTH Chinatown GOVERNOR
PARK
BLOCKS CHINATOWN TOM McCALL
NORTHWEST DAVIS STREET WATERFRONT
NW Davis NW 5th & PARK
Couch SOUTHWEST NAITO PARK WAY
NORTHWEST COUCH STREET NW 3RD AVENUE NW 2ND AVENUE NW 1ST AVENUE
OLD TOWN
NW 13TH AVENUE
NW 12TH AVENUE
(SKIDMORE)
NW 14TH AVENUE
WEST BURNSIDE STREET
Skidmore Burnside Bridge
Fountain
SOUTHWEST ANKENY STREET
SW OAK STREET
SW Pine SW ASH STREET
SW 5th
& Oak SW PINE STREET
One of the many bars in the trendy neighborhood of Old Town For keys to symbols see back flap
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56  POR TLAND

Street-by-Street: Old Town

Elegant brick façades and quiet streets belie Old Town’s raucous,
19th-century frontier-town past, when the district hummed with traders,
dockworkers, shipbuilders, and sailors from around the world. While the
saloons and bordellos that once did a brisk business are long gone, Old
Town is still known for harboring some of the city’s wilder nightlife. The
street life here can be colorful, too, especially on weekends, when the
Saturday Market takes over several blocks, as well as during the many
festivals held year-round on the nearby waterfront. N O R T H W E S T 4 T H A V E N U E

Chinatown Gate
This multicolored,
five-tiered, dragon-
festooned gate is the
official entryway to
Chinatown, home to N O R T H W E S T 2 N D A V E N U E
many immigrants
from Asia for more N O R T H W E S T 3 R D A V E N U E
than 135 years.
Pine Street Market
Portland’s modern food hall
opened in 2016 and features
several big-name restau rants,
cafés, bars, and more. It spans
the ground floor of a historic S O U T H W E S T A N K E N Y S T R E E T
build ing, built in 1886, located
at 126 SW 2nd Avenue.

S O S O U T H W E S T A S H S T R E E
U
T
S H W
O
E
U
S T
T
T

H
P
I
W
E N
S
E
T
S
T
O A
K R E
E
S
T
T
R
E
E
T
The New Market Block
This group of Italianate buildings
is typical of the cast-iron and brick
structures built after fire destroyed
much of Portland in the 1870s.
Key
Suggested route
Skidmore Fountain
Built in 1888 as a place for citizens
and horses to quench their thirst, this
elegant fountain and the adjacent
plaza are at the center of Old Town.
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6
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OLD T OWN AND THE PEARL DISTRIC T  57



0 meters 100
0 yards 100
OLD TOWN & THE PEARL
DISTRICT

N W F L A N D E R S
N O R T H W E S T 4 T H A V E N U E Locator Map
DOWNTOWN
See Street Finder map 2



N O R T H W E S T 3 R D A V E N U E N O R T H W E S T 2 N D A V E N U E In this one-block-square walled enclave,



N O R T H W E S T 1 S T A V E N U E



S O U T H W E S T F R O N T
3 . Lan Su Chinese Garden
stone paths wind through a beautiful
landscape of water, stone, plantings, and
Chinese pavilions.



S O U T H W E S T A N K E N Y S T R E E T
2 . Portland
Saturday Market
On Saturdays and
Sundays, over 250
vendors gather here
B U R N S I D E S T R E E T
for America’s largest
handicrafts market.





Governor Tom McCall
Waterfront Park Walkway
This path extends along
the west side of the river
from Burnside Bridge to
RiverPlace Marina (see p69).




1 . Oregon Maritime Center
and Museum
One of the best things about this
informative little maritime museum is
where it’s housed – aboard the tugboat
Portland, which is docked in the
Willamette River alongside the waterfront.




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58  POR TLAND

1 Oregon
Maritime Center
and Museum
113 SW Naito Pkwy. Map 2 E5.
Tel (503) 224-7724.  Skidmore
Fountain (red, blue lines).
Open 11am–4pm Wed–Sat, 12:30–
4:30pm Sun. Closed major hols. &
∑ oregonmaritimemuseum.org

This small but colorful museum An intricately carved pavilion at the Lan Su Chinese Garden
is housed aboard the Portland,
a stern-wheel, steam-powered 2 Portland in the late 1990s. The garden,
tugboat – the last to be in Saturday Market which covers one entire
operation in the US when it city block, or 40,000 sq ft
was decommissioned in 1982. 2 SW Naito Pkwy. Map 2 E4. @ 16. (4,000 sq m), is located in
The ship is now permanently  Skidmore Fountain (red, blue Portland’s Chinatown.
lines). Open Mar–Dec 24: 10am–
moored alongside Governor 5pm Sat, 11am–4:30pm Sun. The landscape of pavilions,
Tom McCall Waterfront Park ∑ portlandsaturdaymarket.com waterfalls, lily pads, bamboo, a
(see pp68–9), where docks once bridged lake, and stone paths,
bustled with seafaring trade. Founded by craftspeople Sheri is classic Ming Dynasty style
Visits include a climb up to Teasdale and Andrea Scharf, the and provides a tranquil
the captain’s quarters and the bustling Portland Saturday Market glimpse of nature amid urban
wheelhouse, which provides is the largest weekly open-air arts surroundings. Hundreds of
a captivating view of the river, and crafts market in the US. It plants grow in the garden,
the downtown waterfront, shifted to its present location in many of which are indigenous
and the bridges that span the Governor Tom McCall Waterfront to China. Traditional Taihu rocks
Willamette River. Visitors can Park and Ankeny Plaza in 2009. mimic mountain peaks, while
also descend into the huge Operating since 1974, the the mirror-like surface of the
below-decks engine room. market features hand-crafted central Lake Zither reflects
In the main cabin, goods made by the people the plants and architecture of
photographs, paintings, models who sell them, local and inter- the garden. Mosaic-patterned
of ships, navigation instruments, national food, and entertainment footpaths, winding through
and other marine memorabilia ranging from live music to stands of bamboo and across
record the pre-railroad days colorful street performances. bridges, lead to several pavilions
when Portland, with its key Every participating member is intended to be places for rest
position at the confluence of chosen by a jury, and each item and contemplation. The ornate
the Willamette and Columbia is reviewed to ensure it meets Tower of Cosmic Reflection
Rivers, flourished as a major the market’s standards. pavilion houses a traditional
seaport. Visitors also get a With a variety of products on teahouse that serves tea
glimpse of maritime life in offer, including clothes, jewelry, and Chinese delicacies.
Portland throughout the ceramics, and art, this is a great Throughout the garden,
20th century, during which place to buy gifts and souvenirs. poems and literary allusions
the city was an important It is open only on weekends, are inscribed on rocks, entry-
shipping center and its ship- except in the week prior to ways, plaques, and above
yards were some of the largest Christmas, when it holds its doors and windows.
in the world. Portland continues “Festival of the Last Minute.”
to be a major port today. 4 Pearl District
3 Lan Su Chinese
Garden W Burnside to the Willamette River (N),
from NW 8th to NW 15th Aves.
239 NW Everett St. Map 2 D3. Tel (503) Map 1 B3. v to NW Glisan St.
228-8131. @ 4, 8, 12, 16, 17, 19, 20,
35, 44, 77.  Old Town/Chinatown One of Portland’s most desirable
(red, blue lines). Open Apr 15–Oct 14: neigh borhoods occupies an old
10am– 6pm daily; Oct 15–Apr 14: industrial district on the north
10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, side of Burnside Street, between
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8 - Chinatown to the east and Nob
= ∑ lansugarden.org Hill (see p72) to the west.
Galleries, shops, design studios,
Artisans and architects from breweries, cafés, restaurants,
Ship’s wheel on board the Oregon Maritime Suzhou, Portland’s sister city in and clubs – especially hip and
Center and Museum China, built this walled garden trendy ones – occupy former
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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OLD T OWN AND THE PEARL DISTRIC T  59


more than one million
volumes, including
new, old, used, rare,
and out-of-print books,
on a wealth of subjects.
The store welcomes
6,000 shoppers each
day, and has become
one of Portland’s
most beloved cultural
institutions since its
establishment in 1971.
Despite its size,
Powell’s is easy to
browse in: the 3,500
sections are divided
The Pearl District’s First Thursday, showcasing the work of local artists into nine color-coded
and well-marked rooms,
factories, warehouses, and is an excellent place to begin a and knowledgeable staff at the
garages. Mean while, buildings walk around the area, taking in information desks possess the
are being renovated as condos the contemporary and historical remarkable ability to lay their
and apart ments, and modern buildings, and the district’s hands on any book in the store.
residential blocks are going up ongoing regeneration. The in-store coffee shop allows
all the time. Visitors may notice The name of the district itself browsers to linger for hours,
many similar ities to urban is said to have been coined by making Powell’s a popular
renewal projects in other cities a local gallery owner, Thomas hangout any day of the year.
such as Boston, New York, and Augustine. He suggested that Indeed, it’s open all 365 of them.
London, but the Pearl District the buildings in the Warehouse During the first half of
is still relatively free of large- District were like gray, dull 2014, Powell’s City of Books
scale commercialism. Some oysters, and that the galleries underwent a major remodeling
big-name stores, such as REI, within were like pearls. project that focused on the
Patagonia, and North Face, Green and Blue rooms.
have moved in; a sign that the 5 Powell’s City Changes included a new
neighborhood is changing. roof, entrance porch, lighting,
One of the most enjoyable of Books skylights and energy-efficient
times to visit the Pearl District 1005 W Burnside St. Map 1 B4. Tel windows. These alterations
neighborhood is during a (503) 228-4651. @ 20. Open 9am– have modernized the space
First Thursday event (the first 11pm daily. 7 See Shopping in while respecting the store’s
Thursday of every month), Portland p80. ∑ powells.com history and preserving a
when the many art galleries number of important elements
in the area remain open late The largest independent such as the iconic Powell’s
to show the latest pieces. The bookstore in the world houses Books marquee.
collections feature a broad
range of contemporary art and
artists. The gallery receptions City of Bridges
are open to the public and are Portland, the City of Roses, is also called the City of Bridges because the east
free of charge. and west banks of the Willamette River are linked by more than 10 bridges.
Art galleries have played The first to be built was the Morrison, in 1887, though the original wooden
such an important role crossing has long since been replaced. Pedestrian walkways on many of the
in the development of bridges connect the Eastbank Esplanade on the east side of the river with
the Pearl District that Jamison Governor Tom McCall Waterfront
Square Park is named after Park on the west side. The Steel
William Jamison, the first art Bridge affords the most dramatic
dealer to set up shop in the crossing: a pedestrian path on the
area. Jamison Square, the first lower railroad deck seems to be
of three new parks built in the almost at water level; when a ship
area, includes a water feature needs to pass, the entire deck is
that fills and recedes over a lifted into the bottom of the
central plaza. When the fountain roadway above. The latest addition
is not in use, the plaza is used is the striking Tilikum Crossing,
as an amphitheater for small which opened in 2015 and is for
performances. The park also pedestrians, cyclists, and public
features a wooden boardwalk, transport only. St. Johns Bridge, completed in 1931
lawns, and colorful public art. It




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POR TLAND  61

DOWNTOWN

With the decline of river traffic in the late continue to give the downtown a bright,
19th century, Portland’s center moved distinctive look. Since the 1970s, urban
inland to the blocks around the intersection planning efforts have earned Portland’s
of Morrison Street and Broadway. The 1905 downtown a reputation as one of the most
Lewis and Clark Exposition brought new successful city cent ers in the US. The area
prosperity and new residents to the city: around Pioneer Courthouse Square is the
downtown became a boomtown. Steel- city’s commercial and cultural hub, while
frame buildings with façades of glazed, many govern ment offices are housed in
white terracotta tiles (Macy’s department innovative new buildings to the east, near
store is a fine example) began to rise; they historic Chapman and Lownsdale Squares.

Sights at a Glance
Buildings and Churches Museums, Galleries, Parks and Squares
2 Pioneer Courthouse and Theaters 1 Pioneer Courthouse Square
4 Sentinel Hotel 3 Portland Institute for 0 South Park Blocks
5 Multnomah County Library Contemporary Art e Chapman and Lownsdale
9 The Old Church 6 Portland’5 Centers for the Arts Squares
w Portland Building 7 Oregon Historical Society t Governor Tom McCall
r Mark O. Hatfield US Courthouse 8 Portland Art Museum Waterfront Park
y KOIN Center u Keller Auditorium i RiverPlace Marina
Other Attractions
q Portland Streetcar


SW 6th
SW STARK STREET
& Pine SW 5th
SW OAK STREET
& Oak
SW BROADWAY SW PINE STREET
SW WASHINGTON STREET
SW ALDER STREET
Galleria/SW SOUTHWEST 6TH AVE SOUTHWEST 5TH AVE SOUTHWEST 4TH AVE SOUTHWEST 3RD AVENUE SOUTHWEST 2ND AVENUE Oak/SW
SW MORRISON STREET
10th Ave
Pioneer SW 1ST AVENUE 1st Ave
Square North
SW YAMHILL STREET
SW 13TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 12TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 11TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE 9th Ave SOUTHWEST SALMON STREET Mall/SW Morrison/ SOUTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY Morrison
Mall/SW
Library/SW
5th Ave
Pioneer
SW PARK AVENUE
SW 3rd Ave
Courthouse/
4th Ave
SW 6th
Pioneer
Place/
Yamhill
Bridge
SW 5th
District
SOUTHWEST TAYLOR STREET
SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE SOUTH SW 6th & SW JEFFERSON STREET GOVERNOR
SOUTHWEST MAIN STREET
TOM McCALL
WATERFRONT
SW MADISON STREET
PARK
City Hall/
Madison
SW 5th & Jefferson
BLOCKS
SOUTHWEST 3RD AVE
PARK SOUTHWEST COLUMBIA STREET
SW 2ND AVENUE
SW CLAY STREET
Bridge
PARK AVE SW BROADWAY SW MILL ST SOUTHWEST 5TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE SW MARKET STREET SOUTHWEST 1ST AVENUE Hawthorne
PETTYGROVE
SW MONTGOMERY ST
PARK SW NAITO PARKWAY River
Willamette
0 meters 300
See also Street Finder 0 yards 300
maps 1, 2, 3, and 4
A mural on the façade of the Oregon Historical Society, Portland For keys to symbols see back flap
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62  POR TLAND

Street-by-Street: Downtown

One of the most appealing characteristics of Portland is the
way the city combines cosmopolitan sophistication with a
relaxed, low-key ambience. Nowhere is this more in evidence
than on the attractive downtown blocks that surround
Pioneer Courthouse Square. Broadway and the streets that
cross it here are lined with department stores and boutiques,
office complexes, hotels, restaurants, theaters, and museums,
many occupying well-restored century-old buildings.
Busy and vital as these downtown blocks are, sidewalks are
shaded, parks are plentiful, and glimpses of the hills and
mountains that encircle the city are easy to come by. 8 . Portland Art Museum
The holdings of the oldest art
museum in the Pacific Northwest
range from Monet paintings to
Native American crafts.
7 Oregon Historical Society
Huge murals on the façades
of this complex depict scenes
from the Lewis and Clark
expedition and other great S O
moments in Oregon U
history. Inside is a wealth T H SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE
of memorabilia from the W S
early days of the state. E S W
T T A Y

S A L L O R
S O U T H W E S T PA R K A V E N U E M O N S T R

0 . South Park Blocks S S W P A R K A V E S T E E
Daniel Lownsdale laid out W R T
E
these city blocks as parkland S M E
T
in 1848. A local farmer’s A
O
I
U
market is held here Saturdays T N
in spring through fall. H S
T
W
S
E
R
O
S
E
U
T
E

T M T
H
A
W
E D
I
S
S
T S O U T H W E S T 6 T H A V E N U E
O B R O A D W A Y
J N
E

F
S
S O U T H W E S T
F T
E R
R E
S E
Key O N T

Suggested route S T
R
E
E
T
6 Portland’5 Centers for the Arts
This organization operates some of Portland’s
major venues for theater, music, and dance.
One of these is the Arlene Schnitzer Concert
Hall, which lights up a stretch of Broadway.
0 meters 80 Its marquee has been shining brightly since
0 yards 80 1927, when the theater opened as the city’s
foremost movie palace and vaudeville house.
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6
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DOWNT OWN  63

Weather Machine OLD TOWN & THE
A whimsical, 25-ft- (8-m-) tall PEARL DISTRICT
sculpture comes to life every day
at noon, when figures emerge
from its top to announce the
weather for the next 24 hours.
DOWNTOWN
Jackson Tower, built by
the Reid brothers in 1912 Locator Map
for a newspaper magnate, See Street Finder map 1
features glazed terracotta
as a decorative element
for its steel frame.


S O
U
T
S H
O
U W E
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finished in 1914, features
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Corinthian columns at its
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base and is decorated
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S O U T H W E S T 6 T H A V E N U E
1 . Pioneer Courthouse Square
This one-block-square open space is 2 Pioneer Courthouse
the heart of Portland, where fountains The octagonal tower of the
splash and Portlanders gather for free first federal building in the
lunchtime concerts, flower shows, Pacific Northwest has been
and other events, or simply for a a fixture of the Portland
chance to sit and enjoy their city. skyline since 1873.
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2 Pioneer festival every July and August.
Courthouse The institute also provides a
stage for performing artists
700 SW 6th Ave. Map 1 C5. from around the world, and
Tel (503) 833-5311.  Pioneer has sponsored appearances
Square (red, blue, green, yellow of contemporary classical
lines).Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. composer Philip Glass and the
Closed Sat, Sun & major hols. 7
experimental performance-art
Completed in 1873 and restored troupe Dumb Type.
in 2005, Pioneer Courthouse
was the first federal building
to be constructed in the Pacific 4 Sentinel Hotel
Northwest and is the second 614 SW 11th Ave. Map 1 B5.
oldest federal building west of Tel (503) 224-3400.  Galleria/SW
Pioneer Courthouse Square, a popular the Mississippi River. The trees 10th Ave (red, blue lines). v to SW
public gathering place planted here at that time are still Alder St. 7 See Where to Stay p286.
standing. The Italianate structure, ∑ sentinelhotel.com
1 Pioneer faced with freestone and topped
Courthouse Square by a domed cupola, houses the Originally opened as the
US Court of Appeals. Visitors Seward Hotel in 1909, and
SW Broadway & Yamhill St. Map 1 C5. can wander the grand hallways later the Governor Hotel in
Tel (503) 223-1613.  Pioneer Square and public areas, where exhibits 1991, this extensively renovated
(red, blue, green, yellow lines). 7 explore the building’s history. hotel now bears the moniker
∑ thesquarepdx.org
There are panoramic views of of the Sentinel. The expedition
Portland from the cupola, and of Meriwether Lewis and William
Pioneer Courthouse Square historic photographs next to each Clark (see p41), whose 1804–1806
resembles the large central window show the same view as journey across the US and
plazas of many European cities, it was in the city’s early years. down the Columbia River put
which was the intent of the city Oregon on the map, figures
planners who designed this prominently in the hotel.
brick-paved pedestrian-only 3 Portland A sepia-colored, four-section
square in the mid-1980s. Institute for mural in the restaurant shows
Despite its recent vintage, Contemporary Art a map of the Lewis and Clark
the square stands on hallowed expedition and depicts scenes
Portland ground: the city’s first 415 SW 10th Ave, Ste 300. Map 1 B4. from the explorers’ journey: Native
schoolhouse was erected on Tel (503) 242-1419. v to NW Everett Americans fishing at Celilo Falls on
this site in 1858, and the much- St. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri. the Columbia River, Meriwether
admired Portland Hotel stood Closed major hols. 7 ∑ pica.org Lewis trading with members of
here from 1890 to 1951, when the Nez Perce tribe in present-day
it was demolished to make way Portland’s venue for the latest Idaho, and the guide Sacagawea
for a parking lot. trends in art does not have a (see p41) surveying the Pacific
According to plan, Pioneer permanent collection but hosts Ocean. Even the lampshades
Courthouse Square has become a variety of exhibitions, lectures, pay tribute to the pair – they
the center of the city, a friendly and residencies culminating in are decorated with excerpts
space where Portlanders gather the annual Time-Based Art (TBA) from the explorers’ journals.
to enjoy a brown-bag lunch
or free outdoor concert.
Architectural flourishes include
a graceful, amphitheater-like
bank of seats, a fountain that
resembles a waterfall, and a
row of 12 columns crowned
with gilt roses.
Underground spaces
adjoining the square accommo-
date offices and businesses,
including the Travel Portland
Visitors Information Center,
Portland Walking Tours, Trimet
Transit Planning Center, and a
Starbucks®. The most compelling
aspect of the square, though, is
the lively presence of the many
residents who use the space. Façade of the stately Sentinel Hotel
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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7 Oregon
Historical Society
1200 SW Park Ave. Map 3 B1.
Tel (503) 222-1741.  Library/
SW 9th Ave (red, blue lines).
v to Jefferson St. Museum:
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun. Library: Open 1–5pm Tue,
10am–5pm Wed–Sat. & 7 =
∑ ohs.org
Eight-story murals by Richard
Haas on the west and south
façades of the Oregon Historical
Society depict the Lewis and
The light-filled stairwell of the Multnomah County Library Clark expedition (see p41), fur
trading, and other important
The hotel incorporates the two known copies of the original events that have shaped the
ornate former headquarters Portland charter, housed in the history of Oregon. On display
of the Elks Lodge as its west John Wilson Rare Book Room. in the galleries, which extend
wing, built in the luxuriant style The library’s most valuable through three buildings, are
of the pre-Depression early possession, worth millions, is some of the 85,000 objects that
1920s to resemble the Palazzo The Birds of America by John make this museum the largest
Farnese in Rome. Mahogany James Audubon, in a full-size repository of Oregon historical
detailing, leather chairs, multi-volume folio edition. artifacts. The exhibits, which
fire places, and warm tones include maps, paintings,
create an atmo sphere of 6 Portland’5 photographs, and historical
old-fashioned opulence. documents, change frequently,
Centers for the Arts since space does not allow for
5 Multnomah 1111 SW Broadway. Map 3 B1. the display of the entire
collection at once.
County Library Tel (503) 248-4335. v to SW On permanent display is
Broadway. 7 8 ∑ portland5.com
“Oregon My Oregon”, a remark-
801 SW 10th Ave. Map 1 B5.
Tel (503) 988-5123.  Library/SW 9th Since the mid-1980s, able exhibition that includes 50
Ave (red, blue lines). v to SW Taylor St. Portland’ 5 Centers for the separate displays recounting
Open 10am–8pm Mon, noon–8pm Arts has been the city’s major the history of the state. There
Tue & Wed, 10am–6pm Thu–Sat, venue for theater, music, and are 12 distinct sections depicting
10am–5pm Sun. Closed major hols. dance. The complex consists Oregon’s rich past, including
7 = ∑ multcolib.org of the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Native American languages and
Hall and the , on Broadway, and culture, memorabilia tracing
Alfred E. Doyle, the architect the Keller Auditorium, a few the state’s maritime history, and
whose work in Portland includes blocks east at Southwest 3rd the region’s varied geography.
such landmarks as the Meier Avenue and Clay Street (see Journals of pioneers and millions
and Frank department store p69). In the Antoinette Hatfield of other items can also be viewed
and the drinking fountains that Hall, the Newmark Theatre, in the society’s research library.
grace downtown streets, chose the Brunish Theatre, and the
limestone and brick for this Dolores Winningstad Theatre
distinctive Georgian structure. open off a dramatic, five-story,
The building, completed in cherry-paneled rotunda
1913, is the headquarters of capped by a dome designed
the county library system, by glass artist James Carpenter.
established in 1864 and the The Arlene Schnitzer
oldest library system west of Concert Hall occupies a former
the Mississippi. vaudeville house and movie
Construction and furnishing palace built in 1927. Its ornate,
of the building cost $480,000. Italian Rococo Revival interior
The interior has undergone has been restored, and it is
a few renovations over the now the home of the Oregon
years, the most major of which Symphony. The marquee
was completed in 1997 and continues to illuminate
cost $27 million. Broadway with 6,000 lights,
Notable holdings of the and it now props up a 65-ft-
collection, which is valued at (20-m-) high sign that screams Decorative murals on the façade of the
$18 million, include one of the “Portland” in bright white lights. Oregon Historical Society




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authorized the landscaping of
these blocks, landscape designer
Louis G. Pfunder planted 104
Lombardy poplars and elms
between Salmon and Hall. The
so-called South Park Blocks
continue to form a 12-block
ribbon of tree-shaded lawns
through the central city, running
past the Portland Art Museum
and Portland’5 Centers for
the Arts (see p65) and into
the campus of Portland State
University. In this city forested
Portland Art Museum’s gallery of late 19th-century European art by so many evergreens, the
blocks of deciduous trees are
8 Portland 9 The Old Church refreshingly pleasant in the fall,
Art Museum 1422 SW 11th Ave. Map 3 A1. when the foliage turns vibrant
1219 SW Park Ave. Map 3 B1. Tel (503) 222-2031. v to SW Clay St. colors. Particularly vivid is the
area around Madison Street,
Tel (503) 226-2811.  Library/SW 9th Open 11am–3pm Tue–Fri. where the First Congregational
8 self-guided. ∑ oldchurch.org
Ave (red, blue lines). v to Jeffer son St. Church rises above the trees.
Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed & Sat, Built in 1882, this church reflects Notable statuary along the
10am–8pm Thu & Fri, noon–5pm Sun.
Closed major hols. & 7 - = a Victorian Gothic Revival style, blocks includes, between
∑ portlandartmuseum.org also known as Stick or Carpenter Madison and Main Streets,
Gothic style, with exaggerated a dour-looking US president
The oldest art museum in the arches, a tall steeple, and sleek Abraham Lincoln (1861–5) by
Pacific Northwest opened in windows. The rough-hewn wood George Fite Waters, who was
1892, introducing the citizenry exterior lends it a distinctly a student of Rodin. One block
to classical art with a collection Pacific Northwestern flavor. On south is the 18-ft- (5.5-m-) tall
of plaster casts of Greek and Wednesdays at noon, the original bronze equestrian Rough Rider,
Roman sculpture. Today, the Hook and Hastings pipe organ is a statue of President Theodore
42,000-piece-strong collection, put into service for free concerts. Roosevelt (1901–9), by his friend
which places the museum and hunting partner Alexander
among the 25 largest in the Phimister Proctor.
country, is housed in a building Among the most distinctive
designed by modernist ornaments are the Benson
architect Pietro Belluschi. In drinking fountains. In 1917,
2005, the North Building was lumber baron Samuel Benson
extensively renovated in order commissioned prominent archi-
to house the Center for Modern tect A. E. Doyle to design these
and Contemporary Art. graceful, four-bowled fountains.
A sizable collection of He placed 20 of them through-
European paintings, including out the South Park Blocks and
works by Van Gogh, Picasso, the rest of downtown to quench
Italian Renaissance masters, the thirst of residents who might
and French Impressionists, otherwise be tempted to visit
hang in the galleries. Works saloons. Since then, 20 more
by Rodin and Brancusi fill the fountains have been added.
sculpture court; further galleries
house works by Frank Stella and The Gothic Revival-style Old Church, with
Willem de Kooning; and there an intricately detailed wood exterior
is a wing devoted to historical
and contemporary photo- 0 South Park Blocks
graphs, prints, sculptures, and
drawings by artists from the Bounded by SW Salmon St & I-405, SW
region. The Grand Ronde Park & SW 9th Aves. Map 3 B1. v to
Center for Native American stops between SW Salmon & SW Mill Sts.
Art displays masks, jewelry,
totem poles, and works by In 1852, frontier businessman
artists from 200 North and legislator Daniel Lownsdale
American indigenous groups. set aside the blocks between
The museum is an important Park and 9th Avenues as Offerings at the Saturday farmers’ market,
stop for traveling exhibitions. parkland. After the city council South Park Blocks
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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q Portland w Portland Building
Streetcar 1120 SW 5th Ave. Map 3 C1. Gallery:
East- & southbound on NW Lovejoy St Tel (503) 823-5252. @ Transit Mall.
& 11th Ave, north- & westbound on Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.
10th Ave & NW Northrup St. Map Closed major hols.
1 A2–3 B2. Tel (503) 222-4200. Open
5:30am–11:30pm Mon–Fri, 7:15am– The Portland Building, designed
11:30pm Sat, 7:15am–10:30pm Sun. by New Jersey architect Michael
& ∑ portlandstreetcar.org Graves, has been featured on
the covers of both Time and
Horse-drawn streetcars began Newsweek and was called The landmark Portland Building, home
running in the 1870s. By the Portland’s “Eiffel Tower” by to City of Portland offices
early 20th century, electric the city’s former mayor Frank
streetcars were rumbling Ivancie. The building has been practicality and a lack of
all across Portland, bringing controversial pretension, as befits the
downtown within reach of ever since home of government offices.
newly established residential it was More ostentatious is
neighborhoods. Cars had put completed in Portlandia, a 36-ft- (11-m-) tall
the streetcars out of 1982. Displaying statue fashioned from 6.5 tons
service by the 1950s, an experimental of copper that emerges from a
but in the late 1990s, combination of second-floor balcony above the
city planners turned architectural main doors. The figure crouches,
to streetcars again as styles, this first with one hand extended and
part of a scheme large-scale post- the other brandishing a giant
to reduce modern office trident. Completed by sculptor
congestion and building in the US Raymond Kaskey in 1985,
ensure the vitality has been hailed as a Portlandia is modeled on Lady
of the central major innovation in Commerce, the symbolic figure
business district. contemporary urban that appears on the city seal
The Czech- and design and a credit to and that supposedly welcomed
Oregon-built street- Portlandia watching from the forward-thinking traders into the city’s port. After
cars travel along Portland Building Portland. It has also New York City’s Statue of Liberty,
three lines. The first, been denounced Portlandia is the largest copper
the North/South (NS) line, runs as just plain ugly. The use of statue in the US.
from NW 23rd Avenue to the muted colors and ornamental A small gallery on the second
South Waterfront, where it swags and pilasters lends floor of the building displays
connects with the Aerial tram a certain playfulness to the public art of the region. There
to Oregon Health and Science exterior, while the 15-story are also plans and models
University. The other two lines building’s relatively modest related to the design and
run in loops around the Central height and multiple rows of construction of the building
City, connecting the four small square windows suggest and the Portlandia statue.
quadrants over the Broadway
Bridge and the new Tilikum Portland the Green
Crossing. Single rides and
day passes can be purchased, Justifiably, Portland’s abundant parks and gardens are often described
including via a smartphone app. in superlatives. The city can make claim to one of the largest forested
city parks in the US, 8-sq-miles (21-sq-
km) Forest Park, and the smallest park
in the world, 452-sq-inch (0.3-sq-m)
Mill Ends Park (see p69). The city
boasts some of the nation’s largest
and most extensive rose test gardens
(see p76), one of the world’s most
renowned rhododendron gardens
(see p78), one of the finest Japanese
gardens outside Japan (see p76), and
the largest classical Chinese garden
outside China (see p58). Many of the
other parks and gardens included
in the city’s 56 sq miles (145 sq km)
of green space have no such claims
attached, but they are nonetheless
pleasant places in which to enjoy Mill Ends Park, the world’s
Portland streetcars, environmentally the great outdoors. tiniest park
sound transit




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e Chapman and t Governor Tom
Lownsdale Squares McCall Waterfront
Bounded by SW Salmon & SW Park
Madison Sts, SW 3rd & SW 4th Aves. Bounded by SW Harrison & NW Glisan
Map 3 C1.  Mall/SW 4th Ave Sts, SW Naito Pkwy & Willamette River.
(red, blue lines), City Hall/SW Map 4 D1.  Skidmore Fountain,
Jefferson St (green, yellow lines). Morrison/SW 3rd Ave, Yamhill District
(red, blue lines).
It is only fitting that Daniel
Lownsdale should have a one- This 1.5-mile- (2.5-km-) long
block-square park named for park on the west bank of the
him. The tanner who became Willamette River covers land
one of Oregon’s early legislators that once bustled with activity
had the foresight to set aside on the Portland docks and
a parcel of downtown for which, from the 1940s to
the South Park Blocks (see p66), the 1970s, was buried beneath
and he did much to encourage an expressway. The city con-
trade on the nearby waterfront verted the land to a park as
by building a wood-plank road part of an urban renewal
into the countryside so that scheme and named it for
lumber and other goods the environmentally minded
could be transported to Tom McCall, Oregon’s
the Portland docks. The limestone, aluminum, and glass Mark governor, 1967–75.
Judge William Chapman, for O. Hatfield US Courthouse The park is a much-used
whom the adjoining square is r Mark O. Hatfield riverside promenade and the
named, was one of the founders locale for many festivals. One
of the Oregonian newspaper. US Courthouse of its most popular attractions
Along with Terry Schrunk Plaza – 1000 SW 3rd Ave. Map 3 C1. is Salmon Street Springs, a
a third, adjacent park-like block – Tel (503) 326-8000. @ Transit Mall. fountain whose 100 jets
the squares provide a soothing Open 7am–5pm Mon–Fri. splash water directly onto the
stretch of greenery in Portland’s Closed major hols. 7 pavement, providing easily
quiet courthouse and accessible relief on a hot day.
government-building district. Named for a popular Oregon The foot of nearby Southwest
The neighborhood was not governor and senator, the Salmon Street was once the
always so sedate, though: anti- Mark O. Hatfield US Courthouse roughest part of town. Here,
Chinese riots broke out here in defies any preconceived notion drunken revelers were routinely
the 1880s, and the area was that a government building is knocked unconscious and
raucous enough in the 1920s by definition unimaginative. then taken aboard ships as
that Chapman Square was Designed by the New York involuntary crew members.
declared off-limits to men so firm of Kohn Pedersen Fox A block away, at the foot of
that women could enjoy the and completed in 1997, the
space in safety. courthouse presents a hand-
some and bold façade of glass,
aluminum, and limestone.
A ninth-floor sculpture garden
provides excellent views of both
the river and one of Portland’s
most beloved pieces of statuary,
the Elk Fountain, which stands
across the street.
Erected in 1852 on land
where elk once roamed
freely, for many years the Elk
Fountain provided citizens’
horses with a place to drink.
When automobile traffic
began to increase in the
early 20th century, the fountain
stood in the path of a proposed
extension of Main Street.
Angry citizens protested
plans to move the fountain;
Portland’s popular Elk Fountain, built in it now stands in the middle The Battleship Oregon Memorial,
1852, near the courthouse of the street. Governor Tom McCall Waterfront Park
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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Southwest Taylor Street, is
Mill Ends Park, measuring
only 452 sq inches (0.3 sq m).
The park is the former site of
a telephone pole, removed in
the late 1940s. Local journalist
Dick Fagan began planting
flowers on the patch of earth
and writing articles about
what he dubbed the “World’s
Smallest Park,” which it officially
became when the City of
Portland adopted it as part
of the park system in 1976.
The Battleship Oregon
Memorial, built in 1956, honors
an 1893 US Navy ship. A time Keller Auditorium, part of the Portland’5 Centers for the Arts
capsule sealed in its base in 1976
is due to be opened in 2076. u Keller Auditorium shade of trees to the sight,
sound, and spray of a plunging
222 SW Clay St. Map 3 C2. Tel (503) torrent. Completed in 1970, the
248-4335. @ Transit Mall. 7 fountain was designed by
Angela Danadjieva. Originally
When a Broadway roadshow or called the Forecourt Fountain,
other big production comes to it was renamed in 1978 to
Portland, the 3,000-seat Keller honor civic leader Ira C. Keller.
Auditorium often plays host.
Built in 1917 on the former site i RiverPlace
of an exhibition hall and sports
arena known as the Mechanics’ Marina
Pavilion, the auditorium was SW Clay St & Willamette River.
completely remodeled in Map 4 D3. @ 95X, 96. v RiverPlace.
the late 1960s, gaining clean 0 =
sightlines as well as excellent
acoustics. The auditorium is part RiverPlace Marina is located on
of the Portland’5 Centers for the west bank of the Willamette
the Arts (see p65) and is home River, situated at the southwest
The multifunctional KOIN Center, rising to the Portland Opera, the end of Governor Tom McCall
29 stories above Portland Oregon Ballet, and sometimes Waterfront Park.
the Oregon Children’s Theatre. Among the amenities here
y KOIN Center Across the street is the Ira are upscale shops, several
Keller Memorial Fountain, restaurants, including Portland’s
222 SW Columbia St. Map 3 C2.
@ Transit Mall. a waterfall cascading over only floating restaurant, and
18-ft (5.5-m) concrete cliffs one of the city’s higher-end
Like the Portland Building into a pool crisscrossed with hotels, RiverPlace Hotel.
(see p67), the KOIN Center is platforms laid out like stepping The complex also has sloping
designed in the postmodern stones. The fountain, enclosed lawns, riverside walks, and a
style, which incorporates a by a delightful garden, large marina. Sea kayaks are
plurality of architectural styles successfully presents a typical available for rental, providing
in one structure. However, this Pacific Northwest experience – an alternative way to view the
29-story blond-brick tower that of emerging from the river and city.
capped by a pyramidal blue
steel roof has elicited none of
the controversy that the Port-
land Building has. Instead, the
KOIN Center, designed by the
Portland firm of Zimmer Gunsul
Frasca and completed in 1984,
is considered a model urban
complex. The building houses
residences, offices – including
those of the television station for
which it is named – and shops,
as well as a popular steakhouse. Ira Keller Memorial Fountain, across from the Keller Auditorium




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POR TLAND  71
FARTHER AFIELD


By the late 19th century, Portland was fast is another tranquil spot. Numerous important
growing from a small riverfront settlement events in Oregon’s history transpired just
surrounded by forests into an important port south of Portland. Oregon City, at the end
city. It expanded westward into Nob Hill, of the Oregon Trail, was the site of the first
where wealthy merchants settled, and meeting of the territory’s provisional
eastward across the Willamette River. In 1871, legislature, in 1843. At Aurora, a Utopian
the City created Washington Park, now society once thrived, and at nearby
Portland’s favorite green retreat. Crystal Champoeg State Heritage Area pioneers
Springs Rhododendron Garden, to the south, voted to break from Britain.

Sights at a Glance
Towns and Neighborhoods Historic Sites Key
4 Nob Hill e End of the Oregon Trail Central Portland
5 Rose Quarter Interpretive Center Urban area
8 Hawthorne District Parks, Gardens, and
9 Southeast Division Street Natural Areas Major highway
0 Sellwood District 1 Sauvie Island Highway
r Oregon City 2 Washington Park pp74–7 Minor road
t Aurora
6 Eastbank Esplanade
Institutions q Crystal Springs
w Reed College Rhododendron Garden
Museums
7 Oregon Museum of Science
and Industry
Historic Buildings
0 kilometers 10
3 Pittock Mansion
0 miles 10
205
500
Vancouver, WA
14
5
BY Columbia
30 500
99W 99E
30 BY
26 30 14
405 BR
30
84 30
30 84
84
26
8 Beaverton 8 10 26
210 213 205
10
217
26 212
5
211
210 224 224
King 99E
City 224
43
Gladstone 211
219
205 Oregon City
5 211
99W 214
Willame tte
224
213
99E
Salem Aurora 211
Colorful trees and lush greenery in the Strolling Pond Garden, Japanese Garden, Washington Park For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_070-071_AreaOpener.indd 71 04/07/16 12:38 pm

72  POR TLAND

2 Washington Park
See pp74–7.

3 Pittock Mansion
3229 NW Pittock Dr. Tel (503) 823-
3623. @ 20 (to W Burnside Rd, then
20-min walk), 77. Open Feb–Jun &
Sep–Dec: 11am–4pm daily; Jul–Aug:
10am– 5pm daily. Closed Jan,
Thanks giving weekend, Thanksgiving,
Dec 25 & major hols. & 7 (partial; A Nob Hill mansion, typical of those in the
call 48 hrs ahead). 8 = fashionable district
∑ pittockmansion.org
4 Nob Hill
Henry Pittock, who came west on W Burnside to NW Pettygrove Sts,
the Oregon Trail as a young man from NW 17th to NW 24th Sts.
One of several beaches along Sauvie and published the Oregonian v to NW 23rd St.
Island’s Columbia River side newspaper, commissioned this
mansion in 1909. Designed by Also known as Northwest
1 Sauvie Island San Francisco architect Edward 23rd in reference to its main
T. Foulkes, the house is still business street, Nob Hill is a
n 18330 NW Sauvie Island Rd,
(503) 621-3488. @ 17 NW 21st Ave/ the grandest residence gracious, late 19th-century
St. Helens Rd. Sauvie Island Wildlife Area: in Portland. Perched on a neighborhood of shady
Open mid-Apr–Sep: 4am–10pm daily. 1,000-ft (305-m) summit streets, large
∑ sauvieisland.org in the West Hills, it wooden houses,
commands superb and apartment
Sauvie Island comprises of views of the city buildings. With
low-lying land at the confluence and snowcapped its proximity
of the Willamette and Columbia mountain peaks. to downtown
Rivers, just 10 miles (16 km) The mansion’s and its inherent
from downtown Portland. With gardens are a charms, Nob Hill
rich soil that supports many good picnic spot. has become
berry farms and orchards, the Guided tours, one of the city’s
southern half of the island is including self- most popular
primarily agricultural. The guided tours, A turn-of-the-19th-century commercial
northern half is set aside as show off the house in Nob Hill and residential
the Sauvie Island Wildlife mansion’s remark- neighborhoods.
Area, managed by the Oregon able embellishments. Among A slightly bohemian atmosphere,
Department of Fish and Wildlife. them are a marble stair case, ellip- together with upscale shops
Bird-watchers come to see tical drawing room, and circular and restaurants, make Nob
some of the estimated quarter Turkish-style smoking room. Hill a pleasant place to stroll.
of a million birds – including Historic artifacts decorate the Northwest 23rd Street from
swans, ducks, and cranes – home. The furnishings, though West Burnside to Northwest
that stop here on their spring not original to the house, reflect Lovejoy Streets is the neigh-
and fall migrations. the finest tastes of Pittock’s time. borhood’s commercial core. The
During the summer, side streets are lined with lovely
swimmers and sunbathers old houses. The 1892 Victorian
enjoy beaches on the island’s gingerbread Pettygrove House
Columbia River side, and anglers (2287 Northwest Pettygrove
fish for sturgeon and salmon Street) was the home of Francis
in nearby channels. Pettygrove, the city founder
The island’s Bybee-Howell who flipped a coin with fellow
House, a Greek Revival-style founder Asa Lovejoy to
house built in 1858 by James determine the city’s name.
Y. Bybee, is surrounded by fruit Pettygrove won and chose
orchards, brought by pioneers the name of a city in his native
on the Oregon Trail. The house Maine (Lovejoy preferred
is no longer open to the public, “Boston”). Northwest Johnson
but visitors can tour the grounds. Street between Northwest 22nd
and 23rd Streets is lined with
E Bybee-Howell House many fine houses from the
Howell Territorial Park. Tel (503) 222- The sweeping entrance of the imposing 1880s, when Nob Hill first
1741. Open dawn–dusk (grounds only). Pittock Mansion became fashionable.
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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F AR THER AFIELD  73

5 Rose Quarter
1 Center Ct.  Rose Quarter (red,
blue lines). See Entertainment in
Portland p81. ∑ rosequarter.com
Portland’s major venues for
sports, big-ticket entertainment
events, and conventions are
clustered in the Rose Quarter, a
commercial riverside area on the
east bank of the Willamette River.
Portlanders come in droves to
the otherwise quiet neighbor-
hood to attend Portland Trail Portland’s cityscape, the Eastbank Esplanade in the foreground
Blazer basketball games, Portland 6 Eastbank 7 Oregon Museum
Winterhawks ice hockey games,
and major pop and rock concerts Esplanade of Science and
by the likes of Paul McCartney Bounded by Willamette River Industry
and Bruce Springsteen at & I-5, Steel & Hawthorne Bridges. 1945 SE Water Ave. Tel (503) 797-4000.
the Moda Center. Designed  Rose Quarter (red, blue lines).  OMSI/SE Water Ave (orange line).
by the Kansas City firm of Ellerbe @ 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 14. v A Loop. @ 17. Open 9:30am–
Becket, the arena was completed 5:30pm Tue–Sun (mid-June–Sep:
in 1996. It features a unique This pedestrian and bicycle to 7pm). Closed major hols. &
“acoustical cloud” made up of path following the east bank 7 (partial). 8 of submarine. -
160 rotating acoustic panels of the Willamette River between = ∑ omsi.edu
which can be tailored to the the Hawthorne and Steel
needs of the specific event. Bridges was part of a massive Commonly referred to as OMSI,
The smaller, nearby Veterans riverfront redevelopment. While the Oregon Museum of Science
Memorial Coliseum (300 the esplanade’s unobstructed and Industry is one of the top
Winning Way) once hosted views of downtown Portland science museums in the US. The
these events. Its glass-fronted and the opportunity it multiple exhibition halls and
hall, designed by New York firm provides to enjoy the river are science labs of this world-class
Skidmore, Owens and Merrill compelling reasons to visit, the tourist attraction house hundreds
and completed in 1960, is now walkway is an attraction in its of interactive exhibits. Visitors
used for conventions and trade own right. A 1,200-ft (365-m) may enjoy hands-on experiences
shows. It also serves as the section floats on the water, and in subjects such as space
primary home for the Portland another cantilevered portion explo ration, computers, physics,
Winterhawks WHL team. is suspended above one of the chemistry, and mathematics. A
The Lloyd Center, just east of city’s original commercial piers. favorite is the earthquake simu-
the Rose Quarter, is recognized The esplanade provides lator, in which visitors are shaken
as the US’s first covered access to four of the city’s and rattled while learning about
shopping center. Although major downtown bridges, the tectonic plates that continue
such malls are now ubiquitous, linking the walkway to Governor to shift beneath Portland.
the Lloyd Center retains an old- Tom McCall Waterfront Park The Kendall Planetarium, a
fashioned charm, with more (see pp68–9) on the west bank state-of-the-art facility, places
than 200 shops and restaurants of the river. The most dramatic OMSI at the forefront of astro-
lining handsome, well-planted crossing is via the Steel Bridge nom ical education. For kids under
walkways that radiate from a Riverwalk, perched just 30 ft nine, the Science Playground is
skating rink. (9 m) above the water. a wonderland with interactive
zones. The Empirical Theater,
four stories tall, is the largest
screen in Portland and shows
various science-themed
documen taries and feature films.
Moored alongside the
museum is the USS Blueback,
first launched in 1959 and the
last diesel sub marine to be
used by the US Navy. Guided
tours provide a chance to
look at downtown through
a periscope and to experience
the claustrophobic conditions
An interactive exhibit at the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry in which 85 submariners lived.




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2 Washington Park

Though a park first took shape in the western hills of
downtown Portland in 1871, it was not until 1903 that
Washington Park acquired much of its present appearance.
This was the year Boston landscape architect John Olmsted
came to Portland to help plan the Lewis and Clark Exposition
and lay out a parks plan for the young city. Reflecting
Olmsted’s suggestions, Washington Park has developed, over
the years, to encompass gardens, open spaces, great groves
of evergreens, a zoo, and recreational facilities. Today, the park The iconic totem pole at
is one of Portland’s most popular outdoor playgrounds. Washington Park’s Oregon Zoo
Pearl District
. Hoyt Arboretum
More than 8,000 trees and shrubs
from around the world grow in this D
arboretum; they can be appreciated R
along the 12 miles (19 km) of well- W E S T B U R N S I D E S T R E E T V A
marked hiking trails. E L
F A I R V I E W B O U














U P P E R C A S C A D E D R I V E
W I
L

D W O O D T R A I L
World Forestry Center K I N G S T O N D R I V E
This renowned center includes a discovery lab and a
museum, with its “talking” 70-ft (21-m) Douglas fir that
explains how trees grow and excellent exhibits on rain-
and old-growth forests. S O U T H W E S T C A N Y O N R D
KEY
0 meters 400
1 Portland Children’s Museum
is an exciting interactive museum 0 yards 500
designed for children from ages six
months to 10 years.
2 Vietnam Veterans of Oregon
Memorial, a ring of dramatic black
granite blocks, honors Oregonians . Oregon Zoo
who served in the Vietnam War. Oregon’s most-visited
3 Wildwood Trail, a 30-mile (48-km) attraction, famous for
portion of the 40-Mile Loop, runs the its elephants, is a noted
length of Washington Park and into research institute, harboring
Forest Park to the north, winding over 50 threatened and
past Douglas firs and wildflowers. endangered species on
forested hillside.
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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F AR THER AFIELD  75


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Located between Burnside St &
US 26. Tel (503) 319-0999.
Open 5am–10pm daily (not all
sights). & to some exhibits. =
∑ explorewashingtonpark.org
Transport
 Washington Park (red, blue
lines). @ 63.
. Japanese Garden
Plants, stones, and water are arranged to reflect the essence of nature
in five distinct traditional Japanese gardens.
Key
Trail
D
R K Train route
V A I
N
E G
L S
F A I R V I E W B O U J O J O X F D R O A D
T
N


D
R
I
V
E
O R
KENNETH TERRACE
. International Rose Test Garden
U P P E R C A S C A D E D R I V E
Award-winning roses from around the world, a grass
amphitheater, and a walkway honoring every queen
of the city’s annual Rose Festival since 1907 are
W I
K I N G S T O N D R I V E
L
among the treasures of this garden, the oldest
public garden of its kind in the US.
D W O O D T R A I L
K I N G S T O N D R I V E








Washington Park
and Zoo Railway
Three locomotives – the old-style
Steamer, the sleek 1958 Zooliner,
and a train known as the Oregon
Express – meander through
the park’s lush land scape,
offering great views of
downtown Portland, Mounts
Hood and St. Helens, and the zoo.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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76  POR TLAND

Exploring Washington Park Japanese Garden
611 SW Kingston Dr. Tel (503) 223-1321.
Hiking on a forest trail beneath a canopy of old-growth pine @ 63, 83. Open Apr–Sep: noon–7pm
trees or coming upon a meadow filled with wildflowers, Mon, 10am–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
noon–4pm Mon, 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
visitors may find it hard to believe that Washington Park is Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
surrounded by the city. Wild as the hilly terrain is in places, & 8 check website for details. =
however, the park also contains some of the city’s best- ∑ japanesegarden.com
tended gardens and the always busy zoo, as well as large This lovely, manicured land-
expanses of manicured lawn. Scenic roadways, an extensive scape, spread across hilly terrain
trail system, and even a miniature railway make it easy to next to the International Rose
explore the park and enjoy its diverse experiences. Test Garden, is said to be one
of the most authentic Japanese
gardens outside of Japan and
June, in time for the annual is certainly one of the most
Portland Rose Festival (see p34). tranquil spots in Portland. Within
In the All-American Rose the garden, designed by noted
Test Garden, new varieties of Japanese landscape architect
roses are carefully observed Takuma Tono, meticulously
for two years, as a panel tended plantings surround
of judges evaluates them ponds, streams, and pavilions.
for color, form, fragrance, Paths wind through five
and other criteria. distinct landscapes: the Flat
The evaluations are Garden, a typical urban
then combined with garden design; the Tea
those of judges at Garden, built around a
23 other test gardens ceremonial teahouse;
around the country the Strolling Pond Garden,
to determine the where zigzagging bridges
best roses. The City of cross carp-filled pools
Portland also chooses and iris beds; the Natural
its own favorites; these Garden, where shrubs,
Roses in full bloom in the International annual winners are ferns, and mosses
Rose Test Garden on display in the grow in their natural
Gold Medal Garden. state alongside ponds,
International Rose Only at the streams, and waterfalls;
Test Garden Shakespeare Garden and the Sand and Stone
400 SW Kingston Dr. Tel (503) 823- do roses not take center Gardens, in which raked
3636. Open 7:30am–9pm daily. stage – this pleasant gravel simulates the
7 = bower is planted with sea and plantings depict
A magnificent treat for all those flowers mentioned in a sake cup and gourd
who love flowers, this garden the bard’s plays. to wish the visitor
is the oldest continuously The Rose Society Stone pagoda in the happiness. The wood,
operated rose test garden in the also maintains Japanese Garden tile-roofed entrance
US. It can trace its beginnings gardens in Peninsula gate can be reached
to a summer day in 1888, when Park, in north Portland, and by a short uphill climb on a
Georgiana Pittock, wife of in the neighborhood of woodland path or via a shuttle
pioneer publisher Henry Pittock Ladd’s Addition (see p78), bus departing every 25 minutes
(see p72), invited her friends to in southeast Portland. from the parking lot below.
display their prize roses in a tent
on the lawn of her mansion.
The enthusiasts formed the
Portland Rose Society in 1888,
planted roses along city streets,
and dubbed Portland the “City
of Roses.” In 1917, the society
established the rose garden
in Washington Park, on a
terraced hillside commanding
memorable views of the city
and Mount Hood. Today, the
garden’s 8,000 bushes and
525 species come into bloom
in a spectacle of color every The authentic and tranquil Japanese Garden, designed by Takuma Tono
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


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F AR THER AFIELD  77


Oregon Zoo building is a grove of trees
4001 SW Canyon Rd. Tel (503) 226- native to the area. There is also
1561.  Washington Park (blue line). an outstanding collection of
@ 63. Open Jan & Feb: 10am–4pm petrified wood – wood that has
daily; Mar–May & Sep–Dec: 9am–4pm been buried for thousands of
daily; Jun–Aug: 9am–6pm daily. years and transformed into
Closed Dec 25. & 7 - = mineral deposits.
∑ oregonzoo.org
Upstairs, photographs and text
In 1887, pharmacist Richard B. panels explore the importance
Knight donated a grizzly bear and of old-growth forests and
a brown bear to the city. A zoo tropical rainforests. The Forest
has been located in Washington Discovery Lab provides hands-
Park ever since, moving to its on exhibits for kids.
present location on the hillsides The interactive Global Forest
and ravines of the south side of exhibit, featuring the sights,
the park in 1959. More than 1,000 sounds, and smells of each
Stately conifers, part of the collection of birds, mammals, reptiles, and different world forest, is
trees in the Hoyt Arboretum invertebrates – representing 200 definitely worth a visit.
species – live in the zoo, many
Hoyt Arboretum in spacious, naturalistic habitats.
4000 SW Fairview Blvd. Tel (503) The zoo, home to the largest
865-8733. Open 5am–10pm daily. breeding herd of elephants in
8 Apr–Oct: noon Sat (call ahead). captivity, is noted for its efforts to
∑ hoytarboretum.org perpetuate some 21 endangered
The groves and meadows of this and 33 threatened species.
arboretum contain more than Among the zoo’s most popular
6,000 trees and plants from denizens are the Humboldt
around the world, with over penguins from Peru that live
2,000 species, 63 of which are in the Penguinarium; the sea
vulnerable or endangered. otters in Stellar Cove; the African
The Hoyt Arboretum is a living rock python and the lions in the
museum where anyone can Predators of the Serengeti exhibit;
explore vegetation both familiar the impalas and giraffes that
and unexpected, marked with graze in the zoo’s Africa Savanna
identification labels. exhibit; and the wolves and grizzly
The visitors’ center – the bears of the Alaskan Tundra
departure point for tours – also exhibit. The Cascade exhibit
provides maps of the many trails provides a look at the goats, elk, The timbered exterior of the World Forestry
that crisscross the arboretum as otters, and other animals that Center Discovery Museum
well as suggested walking routes roam the Pacific Northwest wilds.
and detailed lists of the trees and Portland Children’s Museum
plants to be found along the way. World Forestry Center 4015 SW Canyon Rd. Tel (503) 223-
At the south end, the Vietnam Discovery Museum 6500.  Washington Park (blue line).
Veterans of Oregon Memorial 4033 SW Canyon Rd. Tel (503) 228- @ 63. Open 9am–5pm daily. & -
– a subdued assemblage of 1367. Open 10am–5pm daily. = ∑ portlandcm.org
lawns, gardens, and six granite Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & When it was established in
slabs inscribed with the names 7 = ∑ worldforestry.org 1949, the Portland Children’s
of veterans – commemorates Trees steal the show at this Museum was one of the first
those Oregonians who were museum devoted to the world’s of its kind in the US. Today the
killed or reported missing forests. On the main floor of museum attracts some 250,000
during the Vietnam War. the stylishly designed timber visitors yearly and offers a wide
range of exhibits geared to kids
under the age of 10.
“Play” is the operative word
at the museum, as youngsters
turn cranks and operate valves
to send water casca ding
through Water Works, use
giant rain sticks to make music
in the Zounds! exhibit, perform
medical operations in the Kids’
Clinic, and in other creative,
hands-on ways explore the
A lion in the Predators of the Serengeti exhibit at the Oregon Zoo world around them.




US_PNW_076-077_Park2_2.indd 77 04/07/16 12:34 pm

78  POR TLAND

9 Southeast q Crystal Springs
Division Street Rhododendron
SE Division Street corridor, from SE Garden
19th St to SE 45th St. SE 28th Ave & SE Woodstock Blvd.
Not long ago, Southeast Tel (503) 771-8386. @ 19.
Division Street was a thorough- Open Apr–Sep: 6am–10pm daily;
fare known for hard ware shops, Oct–Mar: 6am–6pm daily. & (free
auto-body repair and seedy Mon & Tue). 7
blue-collar bars. However, a
series of high-profile restaurants This garden is laced with trails
have opened, making this that cross streams, pass beneath
stretch the hottest area on the misty cascades, and circle a
Portland dining scene. It began spring-fed lake attracting
in 2005 with Andy Ricker’s wildly ducks, geese, herons, and other
Street shopping in Portland’s funky popular Thai cocktail and snack waterfowl. The garden erupts
Hawthorne District shack, Pok Pok (see p295), which into a breathtaking blaze of
has since expanded to NYC color during spring through to
8 Hawthorne and inspired a bestselling early summer, when hundreds
District cookbook. The culinary streak of species of rare rhododendrons
has intensified with exciting, and azaleas – one of the world’s
NE Hawthorne Blvd, from SE 17th to quirky farm-to-table concept leading collections of these
SE 39th Sts.
restaurants and cafés springing woodland plants – are in bloom.
An east-side residential and up one after another. From
business area somewhat old-world Italian at Ava Gene’s
reminiscent of parts of Berkeley, to small-batch ice cream in
California, the Hawthorne experimental, savory flavors
District is hip, funky, and at Salt & Straw, diners can
bustling with young people, restaurant-hop their way
many of whom attend nearby down this street full of “it” eats.
Reed College. Hawthorne
Boulevard is lined with coffee-
houses, clothing boutiques, 0 Sellwood District
bookstores, bakeries, delis, and SE 13th to SE 17th Aves, from SE
restaurants, several serving ethnic Tacoma St to SE Bybee Blvd. The serene lake at Crystal Springs
foods, including Vietnamese, Rhododendron Garden
Indian, Lebanese, and Ethiopian. Sellwood, a quiet residential
Buskers add their sounds to the neighborhood on a bluff
area’s vibrant street scene. above the Willamette River in w Reed College
The district’s surrounding the southeast corner of the 3203 SE Woodstock Blvd. Tel (503)
residential neighborhoods, city, has become the antiques 771-1112. @ 19. Grounds: Open
dating from the early 20th center of Portland. Long gone dawn–dusk daily. ∑ reed.edu
century, were among Portland’s are the days when Sellwood
first so-called “streetcar suburbs.” was a bargain-hunter’s paradise, Founded in 1908 with a bequest
Of these, Ladd’s Addition is but shoppers continue to from Oregon pioneers Simeon
one of the oldest planned descend upon Sellwood’s 30 and Amanda Reed, Reed College
communities in the western US. or so antique shops – many occupies a wooded campus
Built in a circular grid of streets of which occupy old Victorian at the edge of Eastmoreland,
that surround five rose gardens, houses along Southeast 13th one of Port land’s most beautiful
the plan was considered Avenue, known as Antique residential neigh bor hoods.
radical when it was laid out Row. They may then enjoy Brick Tudor Gothic buildings,
in 1939. Today, the area boasts a meal in one of the area’s along with others designed in
many styles of 20th-century many restaurants or in the traditional Northwest timber
architecture: bungalow, adjoining Westmoreland style, are set amid rolling lawns
craftsman, mission, Colonial neighborhood. surrounding the “canyon,” a
Revival, and Tudor. The riverbank just below the wooded wetland; shade is
To the east, Hawthorne Sellwood bluff is made festive provided by 125 species of
Boulevard ascends the slopes by the presence of the Ferris maples, cedars, and other trees.
of Mount Tabor, an extinct wheel, roller coaster, roller- Reed has produced the second-
volcano whose crater is now skating rink, and other highest number of Rhodes
surrounded by a lovely forested attractions of Oaks Park, a scholars of all US liberal arts
park, popular with picnickers. shady amusement park that colleges. The college also hosts
Walking trails are to be found opened during the 1905 Lewis several public events such as
throughout the park. and Clark Exposition (see p44). plays, lectures, and concerts.
For hotels and restaurants see p286 and pp294–6


US_PNW_078-079_FA_Cat2.indd 78 04/07/16 12:38 pm

F AR THER AFIELD  79


epidemic. Exhibits tracing the
colony’s history fill the Old
Aurora Colony Museum’s
handsome white-frame
buildings. Many of Aurora’s
other historic buildings now
house antique shops.
Nearby Champoeg State
Heritage Area is the site of an
1843 convention at which settlers
Artifacts of early pioneers, End of the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center voted to break from Britain and
establish a provisional American
e End of the Museum of the Oregon govern ment in Oregon. By that
Oregon Trail Territory traces this history time, Champoeg was a thriving
Interpretive Center from the days when John trading post on the banks of the
McLoughlin, an Englishman Willamette River, having been
1726 Washington St, Oregon City. sympathetic to the cause of established by the Hudson’s Bay
Tel (503) 657-9336. Open 9:30am–5pm bringing Oregon into the US, Company in 1813. The town that
Mon–Sat, 10:30am–5pm Sun (last settled the town in 1829. In grew up around the trading post
entry 1 hour before closing). Closed 1846, the “Father of Oregon” was abandoned as a result of
Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 built the then-grandest home devastating floods in 1861 and
= ∑ historicoregoncity.org
in Oregon, now the McLoughlin 1890; the park now comprises
House, a unit of Fort Vancouver of meadows and stately stands
Although many of the pioneers National Historic Site. of oaks and evergreens.
who crossed the country on the Displays in the visitor center
Oregon Trail went their separate E Museum of the pay tribute to the Calapooya
ways once they reached eastern Oregon Territory Indians, who once lived here
Oregon, for those who continued 211 Tumwater Dr. Tel (503) 655-5574. on the banks of the river, and
west across the Cascade Open 11am–4pm Wed–Sat. to the traders and pioneers
Mountains, Abernethy Green Closed major hols. & who came in the wake of the
near Oregon City was the end of ∑ clackamashistory.org Hudson’s Bay settlement. Its
the trail. Here they stocked up on P McLoughlin House historic buildings include a jail,
provisions and set up farmsteads 713 Center St. Tel (503) 656-5146. a schoolhouse, a barn, and
in the fertile Willamette Valley. Open 10am–4pm Fri & Sat. several early dwellings.
The End of the Oregon Trail Closed mid-Dec–Jan & major hols. &
Interpretive Center tells the story ∑ mcloughlinhouse.org E Old Aurora Colony Museum
of life on the trail in three oversized, 15018 2nd St NE. Tel (503) 678-5754.
50-ft- (15-m-) high covered wagons Open Feb–Dec: 11am–4pm Tue–Sat,
that encircle Abernethy Green. noon–4pm Sun. Closed Jan, major
Exhibits of heirlooms, the Bound hols. & 8 check website for details.
for Oregon feature film, as well ∑ auroracolony.org
as hands-on experiences and Y Champoeg State
pioneer crafts, such as packing Heritage Area
a wagon and candle dipping, Rte 99 W, 12 miles (7.5 km) west
bring past hardships to life. Visitors The stately McLoughlin House (1846) of Aurora. Tel (503) 678-1251.
can also take a guided walk of in Oregon City Open dawn–dusk daily. & =
one-thousandth of the trail.
t Aurora
r Oregon City
Road map 1 A3. * 650. n (503) 678-
Road map 1 A3. * 29,500. n 1201 5754 (Old Aurora Colony Museum).
Washington St, (503) 656-1619.
The town of Aurora traces its
Terminus of the Oregon Trail and roots to the Aurora Colony, a
capital of the Oregon Territory Utopian community founded
from 1849 to 1852, Oregon City’s by Prussian immigrant William
past prominence is largely due Keil in 1852. Similar to Shaker
to its location beside the 40-ft communities in the east, it was
(12-m) Willamette Falls, which a collective society based on
powered flour and paper mills. the principles of Christian
The mills brought prosperity to fundamentalism and shared
the city, which was the site of the property. The colony thrived
first meeting of the territory’s for more than a decade, until it Picturesque cottages in Aurora’s National
provisional legislature, in 1843. was decimated by a smallpox Historic District




US_PNW_078-079_FA_Cat2.indd 79 04/07/16 12:38 pm

80  POR TLAND

Shopping in Portland DIRECTORY

One of the many pleasures of shopping in Portland is the fact Department Stores
and Shopping Centers
that no state sales tax is levied. Another is the convenient
location of the city’s commercial areas in or near downtown. Bridgeport Village
Portland has its share of nationally known department stores 7455 SW Bridgeport Rd.
Tel (503) 968-1704.
and chains, but it also has many specialty shops, often selling
locally manufactured goods. Lloyd Center
NE Multnomah St & NE 9th Ave.
Tel (503) 282-2511.
Shopping Districts Macy’s
Downtown, near Pioneer 621 SW 5th Ave. Map 1 C5.
Courthouse Square, is the city’s Tel (503) 223-0512.
main shopping district. Major Nordstrom
department stores are here, as 701 SW Broadway. Map 1 C5.
are jewelry and clothing stores, Tel (503) 224-6666.
and other specialty shops. In Nob Pioneer Place
Hill, Northwest 23rd Avenue 700 SW 5th Ave. Map 1 C5.
west of Burnside is lined with an Sign atop one of the unique Made in Tel (503) 228-5800.
eclectic mix of chic and trendy Oregon stores
shops specializing in home Specialty Shops
furnishings, clothing, gifts, and established in Seattle in 1901 Columbia Sportswear
gourmet foods. The Pearl District as a shoe store, is well-known 911 SW Broadway. Map 1 C5.
(see pp58–9) has a concentration for its quality clothing for men, Tel (503) 226-6800.
of commercial galleries, along wom en, and children and superb
with shops offering designer service, while Bridgeport Made in Oregon
Suite 1300, 340 SW Morrison St.
furniture and wares. Village has about 90 shops and Map 1 C5. Tel (503) 241-3630.
In Sellwood (see p78), antique restaurants, as well as a movie (One of several locations.)
stores line Southeast 13th theater. More than 70 upscale
Avenue. A funky counterculture retailers are housed in the Norm Thompson
holds sway on nearby three-level Pioneer Place. Tel (503) 614-4600.
∑ normthompson.com
Southeast Hawthorne The 200 stores in Lloyd
Boulevard (see p78), with Center encircle an ice- Oregon Wines on Broadway
book, music, and vintage skating rink. 515 SW Broadway. Map 1 C5.
clothing shops. At Tel (503) 228-4655.
Portland Saturday Portland Pendleton Shop
Market (see p58), over Specialty Shops 900 SW 5th Ave. Map 3 C1.
300 artisans gather Gallery art on a Specializing in items Tel (503) 242-0037.
on weekends to sell First Thursday “made, caught, or Powell’s City of Books
their work. grown” in the state, 1005 W Burnside St. Map 1 B4.
such as local jams and preserves, Tel (503) 228-4651.
and smoked salmon, Made in
Department Stores and Oregon also stocks a selection
Shopping Centers of products from the Pendleton one million new and used
Founded in 1857, Meier & Frank Woolen Mills (see p115), as does books, is said to be the world’s
is these days known as Macy’s, the Portland Pendleton Shop. largest independent bookstore.
an upscale store selling every- An excellent selection of wines
thing from beauty products produced from the bounty of
to housewares. Nordstrom, the state’s many acclaimed What to Buy
vineyards is to be found at Wine connoisseurs will enjoy the
Oregon Wines on Broadway. offerings of Oregon’s vineyards,
There is a wine bar adjacent to and coffee lovers the artisan-
the shop. Columbia Sportswear roasted single origin beans by
specializes in athletic wear Portland’s Stumptown. Smoked
made in the Pacific Northwest. salmon and oysters from Oregon
Portland’s very own Norm waters also rank high among
Thompson carries classic local delicacies. A wool blanket
casual and outdoor clothing or plaid shirt or scarf from
with a Pacific Northwest look. Oregon’s famed Pendleton
It also has a highly successful Woolen Mills (see p115) is high
worldwide mail-order business. on the list of popular gifts, as is
Wares of all kinds on display at the popular Powell’s City of Books (see Native American art, such as
Portland Saturday Market p59), with its inventory of over masks, carvings, and jewelry.




US_PNW_080-083_Shp_Ent_Arnd.indd 80 04/07/16 12:34 pm

SHOPPING AND ENTER T AINMENT IN POR TLAND  81

Entertainment in Portland DIRECTORY

Portland has a vibrant and growing cultural scene. Ticket Outlets
The performing arts thrive in the many venues located Ticketmaster
throughout the city, with theater and music offerings being Tel (503) 224-4400.
especially plentiful. And, of course, Portland has its fair share Tickets West
of big-ticket rock concerts and professional sports matches. Tel (503) 224-8499.
Theater
Information Artists Repertory Theatre
Portland has become the first Tel (503) 241-1278.
US city to launch a “Twisitor Miracle Theatre Group
Center,” a virtual visitor center, Tel (503) 236-7253.
Travel Portland (www.travel
portland.com). Twitter Portland Center Stage
Tel (503) 445-3700.
techno logy is used to connect
travelers with those who can Dance
answer their questions and
help plan their trips. Oregon Ballet Theatre
The free weekly Willamette Tel (503) 222-5538.
Week newspaper runs compre- Portland’5 Centers for
hensive entertainment listings. the Arts
The Oregonian, the city’s major Tel (503) 248-4335.
daily, prints listings in its Friday The façade of the Portland’5 Centers
edition. The Travel Portland for the Arts Music
website also provides infor- Crystal Ballroom
mation on events around town. Repertory Theatre, the oldest Tel (503) 225-0047.
theater group in the city;
Portland Center Stage, with Jimmy Mak’s Bar & Grill
Buying Tickets a repertoire of classic and Tel (503) 295-6542.
Tickets for many events can contemporary plays; and the Oregon Symphony
be purchased by phone or in Miracle Theatre Group, which Tel (503) 228-1353.
person from Ticketmaster and is dedicated to the Hispanic Portland Baroque Orchestra
Tickets West. arts and community. Tel (503) 222-6000.
Portland Opera
Free Events Dance Tel (503) 241-1802.
Every Wednesday at noon, The Based at the Portland’5 Centers Sports Venues
Old Church (see p66) hosts a free for the Arts, the Oregon Ballet
organ concert. Free noontime Theatre performs classical and Moda Center
concerts are also held at Pioneer contemporary pieces, including Tel (503) 235-8771.
Courthouse Square (see p64). The Nutcracker during the Providence Park
During summer, the holiday season and new works Tel (503) 553-5400.
Amphi theater at Oregon showcased in late spring.
Zoo (see p77) is the setting for
concerts several nights a week A favored jazz haunt of locals is
(tickets can be booked through Music Jimmy Mak’s Bar & Grill in the
Ticketmaster). The oldest symphony orchestra Pearl District, where world-class
on the West Coast, the Oregon jazz can be enjoyed. Music can
Symphony has garnered be accompanied by Greek and
Theater
considerable praise under Middle Eastern cuisine.
Topping the list of Portland’s conductor and music director
theater troupes are the Artists Carlos Kalmar. The Portland Spectator Sports
Baroque Orchestra presents
a program of early music, The Moda Center, part of the
fall through spring, while the Rose Quarter complex (see p73), is
Portland Opera stages five home to the Portland Trail Blazers
works a year. basketball team and Portland
The Crystal Ballroom, Winterhawks hockey team.
opened in 1920, hosts popular Fans can watch the Portland
musical acts; it is famous for its Timbers play soccer at the
The modern Moda Center, in the “floating” dance floor, which hand somely renovated
Rose Quarter complex rests on ball bearings. Providence Park.




US_PNW_080-083_Shp_Ent_Arnd.indd 81 04/07/16 12:34 pm

82  POR TLAND

Getting Around Portland

The results of Portland’s efforts to prevent urban sprawl
and congestion are noticeable in the compact metropolis.
It is easy to navigate Central Portland on foot, while public
transportation is readily available. The extensive bus, light
rail, and streetcar systems put most places within easy reach.
Old-fashioned streetcar near
Walking Jamison Square
Portland’s downtown is so major downtown hotels or call
compact that it is easy to get one of the city’s taxi companies.
almost anywhere on foot, and Fares can be paid with major
walkways on some bridges credit cards.
make most eastside neighbor­
hoods accessible to pedestrians.
Powell’s City of Books (see p59) Public Transit
offers a free walking map. The Portland transportation
Maps are also available at authority, Tri-Met, provides
Travel Portland, at Pioneer three types of public transit:
Courthouse Square (see p64). light rail, buses, and streetcars.
All require a validated ticket,
Bicycle parked on a Portland downtown Bicycling bus transfer receipt, or pass.
street, a common sight Ticket machines and validators
Portland is a bicycle­friendly are located at the station. Before
Street Layout city. Bikes are permitted on boarding, buy your ticket from
The Willamette River, which public transit, most public a ticket machine or with the
is spanned by 12 downtown buses are equipped with bike mobile ticketing app – or
bridges, divides Portland into racks, and many streets have validate a previously purchased
east and west. Burnside Street designated bicycle lanes. ticket in the validator located
bisects the city into north and Helmets are mandatory for near the ticket machine. A
south. As a result, Portland is cyclists under 16 years of age, validated ticket is good for
divided into quadrants, reflected and all cyclists who ride after 2 hours on MAX, buses, and
in street addresses, most of which dark must equip their bicycles Portland Streetcars.
begin with a “Northwest,” “North­ with a red reflector that can The Metro Area Express (MAX)
east,” “Southwest,” or “Southeast.” be seen from the rear and light rail system serves the
Avenues in Portland are a flashing white light that is Portland metropolitan area.
numbered and run north– visible from ahead. The Bicycle Its blue­line trains run through
south; streets are named and Transportation Alliance, downtown between Hillsboro
run east–west. The streets north a cycling advocacy group, in the west and Gresham in the
of Burnside run alphabetically, provides route maps and other east, while the red line connects
making them easy to find – useful cycling information. downtown with the airport. The
for example, Couch is next yellow line runs across north
to Burnside and Davis is next Portland, from the Rose Quarter
to Couch. South of Burnside, Taxis to the Expo Center, while the
however, street names run in Taxis do not cruise the streets orange line runs from Union
a random order. Street numbers in Portland looking for fares as Station to Milwaukee. The green
that are odd are usually on they do in many other cities. line connects Union Station
the west and north sides; even You can find a cab outside to Portland State University.
numbers, usually on the east
and south.
Several highways crisscross
Portland. The I­5, the main West
Coast north–south route, runs
through the city, while the I­84
runs from the east bank of the
Willamette River east toward
Idaho and beyond. The I­205
forms a perimeter around the
city’s outskirts and runs by the
airport; the I­405 loops around
the southern and western edges
of downtown. A MAX train servicing Portland’s historic Old Town




US_PNW_080-083_Shp_Ent_Arnd.indd 82 04/07/16 12:34 pm

GE T TING AROUND POR TLAND  83


Trains run roughly every 10
to 15 minutes, with a reduced
late-night schedule.
Most Tri-Met bus routes
include stops along the
downtown transit malls on 5th
and 6th Avenues, from which
many downtown attractions
are an easy walk.
The Portland Streetcar North/
South (NS) line travels through Portland Streetcar at the Portland State University Station
central Portland and makes
many stops along 10th and on parts of 5th and 6th Avenues on the amount paid – to be
11th Avenues. At the south designated as transit malls, which displayed on the inside of
waterfront it connects with accommodate public trains and the windshield. Metered
the Aerial tram, which takes buses. It is legal to make a right parking is generally in effect
passengers to Oregon Health turn on a red light, but only after Monday through Saturday,
and Science University. The coming to a full stop. from 8am to 7pm, and Sunday
other two lines run around the Speed limits are generally from 1pm to 7pm, excluding
Central City in clockwise and 25 mph (40 km/h) in residential state holidays.
counter-clockwise loops over areas, and 20 mph (32 km/h) in
the Broadway Bridge and the business and school districts. Towing
Tilikum Crossing (see p67). Drivers and passengers are
The fare on MAX trains, buses, required to wear seat belts and Parking wardens are a vigilant
and streetcars varies depending motorcyclists must wear helmets. presence on downtown streets.
on the distance traveled. There If you need assistance, maps, Check posted street parking
are three zones; the adult fare or guidebooks, contact the rules, as they may limit parking
for one zone is $2.50, while local office of the American during rush hours or specify
a day pass is $5. The fare is Automobile Association (AAA). other regulations, such as
reduced for seniors and for stopping being permitted
children aged 7 to 17. As only to load or unload. If your
many as three children under Parking car has been towed, call the
age 7 can ride for free when Metered street parking is Portland Police Auto Records
accompanied by an adult. available downtown, but the Department. A processing fee
Transfers are free and allow for ease of finding a space greatly and towing charge will be levied.
interchangeable travel on the depends on the time of day. The
three forms of transit. Books parking time permitted varies DIRECTORY
of 10 tickets are available at a from 15 minutes to 3 hours,
discount. All-day tickets offering 1 hour being the norm. An Useful Numbers
unlimited rides anywhere in the economical alternative is one American Automobile
system and 7-, 14-, and 30-day of the many SmartPark garages. Association (AAA)
passes are also available. MAX On most downtown streets, Tel (800) 222-4357. ∑ aaa.com
tickets must be validated at the city has introduced a park-
one of the machines located and-display system. Machines Bicycle Transportation
throughout the trains. accept payment in cash or by Alliance
Tel (503) 226-0676.
Tri-Met buses, MAX trains, and credit card and issue a ticket – ∑ btaoregon.org
Portland Streetcars all accom mo- valid for up to 3 hours, depending
date passengers with disabilities. Portland Police Auto
Records Department
Tel (503) 823-0044.
Driving
Travel Portland
Compared with many other Tel (503) 275-9750 or (877) 678-
cities, Portland is relatively easy 5263. ∑ travelportland.com
to drive in. Some of the major Tri-Met Customer Service
arteries out of downtown – Tel (503) 238-7433.
such as US 26 West, I-84, I-85, ∑ trimet.org
and Macadam Boulevard – can
become congested between Taxis
5 and 6pm, but at most other
times, barring accidents and Broadway Cab
road work, traffic flows easily. Tel (503) 333-3333.
The many one-way streets Radio Cab
downtown ease traffic Union Station, with its prominent tower, Tel (503) 227-1212.
congestion. Cars are prohibited welcoming train passengers



US_PNW_080-083_Shp_Ent_Arnd.indd 83 04/07/16 12:34 pm

84  POR TLAND STREE T FINDER


PORTLAND STREET FINDER

The key map below shows the area of Portland throughout the Portland chapter of this guide
covered by the Street Finder maps, which refer to the grid on the maps. The first figure in
can be found on the following pages. Map the reference indicates which map to turn to
references for sights, hotels, restaurants, (1 to 4), and the letter and number that follow
shops, and entertainment venues given refer to the grid reference on that map.

Key
Sight
Station building
Train station
Old Town & Bus station – long-distance
The Pearl District
Streetcar stop
MAX Light Rail stop
Information
Hospital
Church
Downtown Railroad line


Scale of maps 1–4
0 meters 150
0 yards 150

0 meters 500
0 yards 500




B H MAX Light Rail Northeast Hassalo
1 A4–2 F2 Street 2 F2
Baldock Freeway 4 D4 Hawthorne Bridge 4 D2 Moda Center 2 E1 Northeast Holladay
Broadway Bridge 2 D1 Morrison Bridge 2 E5 Street 2 F2
Burnside Bridge 2 E4 J Multnomah County Northeast Lloyd
Library 1 B5 Boulevard 2 F3
C Japanese-American Northeast Multnom
Memorial Park 4 D2
Chapman Square 3 C1 N Street 2 F2
Chinatown 2 D4 K North Dixon Street 2 D1 Northeast Weidler
Classical Chinese North Interstate Street 2 F1
Garden 2 D3 Keller Auditorium 3 C2 Avenue 2 D1 Northwest 1st
KOIN Center Building 3 C2 North Park Blocks 1 C4 Avenue 2 D3
D North Wheeler Northwest 2nd 2 D3
Avenue
Duniway Park 3 B4 L Street 2 E1 Northwest 3rd
Liberty Ship North Williams Avenue 2 D3
E Memorial Park 1 C1 Avenue 2 E1 Northwest 4th
Lovejoy Park 3 C3 Northeast 2nd Avenue 2 D3
East Burnside Street 2 F4 Lownsdale Square 3 C1 Avenue 2 F1 Northwest 5th
Eastbank Esplanade 2 E4 Northeast 3rd
& 4 E2 M Avenue 2 F1 Avenue 2 D3
Northeast Broadway Northwest 6th
G Main Post Office 1 C2 Street 2 F1 Avenue 1 C3
Mark O. Hatfield Northeast Couch Northwest 8th
Governor Hotel 1 B5 US Courthouse 3 C1 Street 2 F4 Avenue 1 C3
Governor Tom McCall Marquam Bridge 4 E3 Northeast Davis Northwest 9th
Water front Park 4 D1 Martin Luther King Street 2 F3 Avenue 1 C1
Greyhound Bus Jr Boule vard 2 F1 Northeast Halsey Northwest 10th
Terminal 1 C3 & 4 F1 Street 2 F1 Avenue 1 B2
US_PNW_084-085_StreetFIndex.indd 84 04/07/16 12:38 pm

POR TLAND STREE T FINDER  85

Northwest 11th P Southwest 2nd Southwest Jackson
Avenue 1 B2 Park Avenue 3 B2 Avenue 2 D5 Street 3 A3
Northwest 12th Pearl District 1 B3 & 3 C5 Southwest Jefferson
Avenue 1 B2 Pettygrove Park 3 C2 Southwest 3rd Street 3 B1
Northwest 13th Pioneer Courthouse 1 C5 Avenue 2 D5 Southwest Kelly
Avenue 1 B3 Pioneer Courthouse & 3 C2 Avenue 4 D5
Northwest 14th Square 1 C5 Southwest Southwest Lincoln
Avenue 1 B3 Portland Art 4th Avenue 2 D4 Street 3 B3
Northwest 15th Museum 3 B1 & 3 B2 Southwest Madison 3 C1
Street
Avenue 1 A2 Portland Building 3 C1 Southwest Southwest Main
2 D4
Northwest 16th Portland Institute for 5th Avenue & 3 B2 Street 1 B5

Avenue 1 A2 Contemporary Art 1 B4 Southwest & 3 C1
Northwest 17th Portland Saturday 2 E4 6th Avenue 1 C5 Southwest Market
Market
Avenue 1 A1 Portland State & 3 B2 Street 3 B2
Northwest 18th University 3 A2 Southwest 6th Street 3 B4 Southwest Meade
Avenue 1 A2 Portland Streetcar 1 A2 Southwest Street 3 C5
Northwest 19th –3 B2 9th Avenue 1 B5 Southwest Mill Street 3 B2
Avenue 1 A2 Portland’5 Centers for & 3 A2 Southwest Montgomery
Northwest Broadway 1 C3 the Arts 3 B1 Southwest Street 3 A2
Northwest Couch Powell’s City of Books 1 B4 10th Avenue 1 B5 & 4 D3
Street 1 A4 & 3 A1 Southwest Moody
Avenue
Northwest Davis R Southwest Southwest Moody 4 D5
Street 1 C3 11th Avenue 1 B5 Street 4 D4
Northwest Everett River Place Marina 4 D3 & 3 A1 Southwest Morrison 1 C5
Street 1 B3 Rose Quarter 2 F1 Southwest Southwest Naito
1 B5
Northwest Flanders Ross Island Bridge 4 F5 12th Avenue & 3 A1 Parkway 2 D5

Street 1 A3 & 4 D1
Northwest Glisan S Southwest 1 B4 Southwest Oak
13th Avenue
Street 1 A3 Sam Jackson Park & 3 A1 Street 1 C4
Northwest Hoyt Road 3 A5 Southwest 14th Southwest Park
Street 1 A3 South Park Blocks 3 B1 Avenue 1 A5 Avenue 1 C5
Northwest Irving Southeast 1st Avenue 4 F1 Southwest 15th Southwest Pine
Street 1 B3 Southeast 2nd Avenue 1 A4 Street 2 D4
Northwest Johnson Avenue 2 F4 Southwest 16th Southwest River 4 D3
Drive
Street 1 A2 & 4 F2 Avenue 1 A4 Southwest Salmon
Northwest Kearney Southeast 3rd Southwest 17th Street 1 A5
Street 1 B2 Avenue 2 F5 Avenue 1 A4 & 4 D1
Northwest Lovejoy & 4 F1 Southwest 18th Southwest Sheridan
Street 1 A2 Southeast Avenue 1 A4 Street 3 B4
Northwest Marshall Alder Street 2 F5 Southwest Alder Southwest Sherman
Street 1 A2 Southeast Ankeny Street 1 C5 Street 3 A4
Street
2 F4
Northwest Naito Southeast Ash Street 2 F4 Southwest Ankeny 2 D4 Southwest Stark
Street
Parkway 1 C1 Southeast Belmont Southwest Arthur Street 2 D5
Northwest Northrup Street 4 F1 Street 3 C4 Southwest Taylor
Street 1 A2 Southeast Clay Street 4 F2 Southwest Ash Street 2 D4 Street 1 A5
Northwest Overton Southeast Southwest Barbur & 4 D1
Street 1 B1 Harrison Street 4 F3 Boulevard 3 B5 Southwest Terwilliger
Boulevard
Northwest Park Southeast Hawthorne Southwest Broadway 1 C4 Southwest Washington 3 B5
Avenue 1 C3 Boule vard 4 F2 & 3 B2 Street 2 D5
Northwest Pettygrove Southeast Madison Southwest Southwest Yamhill
Street 1 B1 Street 4 F2 Broadway Drive 3 A4 Street 2 D5
Northwest Quimby Southeast Main Street 4 F1 Southwest Buckingham Steel Bridge 2 E3
Street 1 A1 Southeast Market Avenue 3 A4
Northwest Raleigh Street 4 F2 Southwest U
Street 1 B1 Southeast Mill Street 4 F2 Caruthers Street 3 B4
Northwest Savier Southeast Southwest Union Station 1 C2
Street 1 A1 Morrison Avenue 2 F5 Chelmsford Avenue 3 A4
Southeast Oak Street 2 F5 Southwest Clay W
Street
O Southeast Pine Street 2 F4 Southwest College 3 B1 West Burnside Street 1 C4
Southeast Salmon
2 D2
O’Bryant Square 1 C4 Street 4 F1 Street 3 B3 Willamette River –4 E4

The Old Church 3 A1 Southeast Stark Street 2 F5 Southwest Columbia
Old Town 2 D4 Southeast Stephens Street 3 C1
Oregon Convention Street 4 F3 Southwest Hall Street 3 B2
Center 2 F2 Southeast Taylor Southwest Harbor
Way
Street
Oregon Health & Southeast Washington 4 F1 Southwest Harrison 3 C3
Science Uni versity 3 A5 Street 2 F5 Street 3 C3
Oregon Historical Southeast Water Southwest Hoffman
Society 3 B1 Street 4 E1 Avenue 3 A4
Oregon Maritime Southeast Yamhill Southwest Hood
Center and Museum 2 E5 Street 4 F1 Avenue 3 C4
Oregon Museum of Southwest 1st Southwest Hooker
Science and Industry 4 F3 Avenue 2 D5 Street 3 C5
US_PNW_084-085_StreetFIndex.indd 85 04/07/16 12:38 pm

NORTH DIXON STREET
NW SAVIER STREET NE BROADWAY STREET

NORTHWEST RALEIGH ST NORTH WHEELER STREET NORTHEAST WEIDLER STREET

NORTHEAST HALSEY ST
NORTHWEST QUIMBY ST
NORTHWEST PETTYGROVE STREET NORTH IN TERSTATE AVENUE NORTH WILLIAMS AVENUE ROSE
LIBERTY SHIP QUARTER NORTHEAST 2ND AVENUE NORTHEAST 3RD AVENUE
Broadway Bridge Center
NORTHWEST OVERTON STREET MEMORIAL PARK The
Moda
NORTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY
NORTHWEST 17TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST NORTHRUP STREET NORTHWEST 9TH AVENUE INTERSTATE 5 NE MULTNOMAH ST
NORTHEAST HASSALO STREET
NORTHWEST MARSHALL STREET
Rose
Quarter Convention
Center MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BOULEVARD
NW LOVEJOY STREET NORTHWEST 15TH AVENUE NORTHEAST HOLLADAY STREET
Willamette River
Interstate/
Rose Quarter
NORTHWEST KEARNEY STREET
Union
Oregon
INTERSTATE 405
NORTHWEST 16TH AVENUE
NW JOHNSON STREET Station Convention
Center
NORTHWEST IRVING STREET NORTHWEST 12TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 11TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET Steel Bridge
NORTHWEST 18TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET Union Station/ Union
NORTHWEST 19TH AVENUE
NW 6th
NORTHWEST 10TH AVENUE
& Hoyt St Station/
Greyhound NW 5th NORTHEAST LLOYD BOULEVARD
& Glisan
Bus Terminal
NORTHWEST GLISAN STREET
NORTHWEST PARK AVENUE
NORTHWEST 9TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 13TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 14TH AVENUE
Lan Su
NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET PEARL DISTRICT NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET NORTHWEST 8TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 5TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 4TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 3RD AVENUE Chinese NORTHWEST 2ND AVENUE Willamette River
Garden Old Town/
Chinatown
NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET
NORTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST DAVIS STREET CHINATOWN NE DAVIS STREET
NORTHWEST BROADWAY
NORTH NW Davis NORTHWEST 1ST AVENUE
PARK
BLOCKS NW 5th NORTHWEST COUCH STREET
NORTHWEST COUCH STREET & Couch NE COUCH STREET
NORTHWEST 17TH AVENUE
Powell`s City OLD TOWN
of Books
WEST BURNSIDE STREET (SKIDMORE) Skidmore Portland Burnside Bridge EAST BURNSIDE STREET
SOUTHWEST BROADWAY
SOUTHWEST 18TH AVE SOUTHWEST 17TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 16TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 15TH AVENUE INTERSTATE 405 SW WASHINGTON STREET SOUTHWEST OAK STREET SW Pine 5TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST PINE STREET Saturday ESPLANADE SE ANKENY STREET
Fountain
SOUTHWEST ANKENY STREET
SOUTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
Market
Portland Institute for
Contemporary Art
SOUTHWEST ASH STREET
Provi-
SW 5th
dence
& Oak
SE ASH STREET
O'BRYANT
Park
SOUTHWEST 3RD AVENUE
EASTBANK
SQUARE
Sentinel
SE
PINE
ST
Oregon Maritime
SOUTHWEST 14TH AVE SOUTHWEST 13TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 12TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 11TH AVENUE Hotel SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST ALDER SOUTHWEST STREET SOUTHWEST 2ND AVENUE Oak/SW GOVERNOR SOUTHEAST 2ND AVENUE SE OAK STRE
Center and Museum
1st Ave
Galleria/SW
10th Ave
SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON
SOUTHWEST TAYLOR STREET
SW STARK STREET
TOM McCALL
Pioneer
Library/SW
9th Ave
SOUTHWEST SALMON STREET
PIONEER
PARK
COURTHOUSE Square North Mall/SW STREET SOUTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY WATERFRONT INTERSTATE 5 SOUTHEAST STARK STREET
5th Ave
SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE DOWNTOWN Pioneer Place/ SOUTHWEST STREET Yamhill Morrison Bridge SE MORRISON AVENUE
Multnomah SQUARE SOUTHWEST MORRISON SOUTHWEST 1ST AVENUE
Pioneer
County Library Square South Courthouse Mall/SW Morrison/ SOUTHEAST WASHINGTON SOUTHEAST 3RD AVENUE
Pioneer
STREET
SW 3rd Ave
4th Ave
SOUTHEAST ALDER STREET
SW 5th
District
SOUTHWEST MAIN STREET
SOUTHWEST
YAMHILL STREET
TAYLOR STREET
US_PNW_086-089_StreetFinder.indd 86 04/07/16 12:34 pm

NORTH DIXON STREET
NW SAVIER STREET NE BROADWAY STREET

NORTHWEST RALEIGH ST NORTH WHEELER STREET NORTHEAST WEIDLER STREET

NORTHEAST HALSEY ST
NORTHWEST QUIMBY ST
NORTHWEST PETTYGROVE STREET NORTH IN TERSTATE AVENUE NORTH WILLIAMS AVENUE ROSE
LIBERTY SHIP QUARTER NORTHEAST 2ND AVENUE NORTHEAST 3RD AVENUE
Broadway Bridge Moda
NORTHWEST OVERTON STREET MEMORIAL PARK The
NORTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY
Center
NORTHWEST 17TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST NORTHRUP STREET NORTHWEST 9TH AVENUE INTERSTATE 5 NE MULTNOMAH ST
NORTHEAST HASSALO STREET
NORTHWEST MARSHALL STREET
Rose
Quarter Convention
Center MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BOULEVARD
NW LOVEJOY STREET NORTHWEST 15TH AVENUE NORTHEAST HOLLADAY STREET
Willamette River
Interstate/
Rose Quarter
NORTHWEST KEARNEY STREET
Union
Oregon
INTERSTATE 405
NW JOHNSON STREET Station Convention
NORTHWEST 16TH AVENUE
Center
NORTHWEST IRVING STREET NORTHWEST 12TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 11TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET Steel Bridge
NORTHWEST 18TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST HOYT STREET Union Station/ Union
NORTHWEST 19TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 10TH AVENUE
NW 6th
& Hoyt St Station/
Greyhound NW 5th NORTHEAST LLOYD BOULEVARD
& Glisan
Bus Terminal
NORTHWEST GLISAN STREET
NORTHWEST PARK AVENUE
NORTHWEST 9TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 14TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST 13TH AVENUE
Lan Su
NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET PEARL DISTRICT NORTHWEST FLANDERS STREET NORTHWEST 8TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 5TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 4TH AVENUE NORTHWEST 3RD AVENUE Chinese NORTHWEST 2ND AVENUE Willamette River
Garden Old Town/
Chinatown
NORTHWEST EVERETT STREET
NORTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST DAVIS STREET CHINATOWN NE DAVIS STREET
NORTHWEST BROADWAY
NORTH NW Davis NORTHWEST 1ST AVENUE
PARK
BLOCKS NW 5th NORTHWEST COUCH STREET
NORTHWEST 17TH AVENUE
NORTHWEST COUCH STREET & Couch NE COUCH STREET
Powell`s City OLD TOWN
of Books
WEST BURNSIDE STREET (SKIDMORE) Skidmore Portland Burnside Bridge EAST BURNSIDE STREET
SOUTHWEST 18TH AVE SOUTHWEST 17TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 16TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 15TH AVENUE INTERSTATE 405 SW WASHINGTON STREET SOUTHWEST OAK STREET SW Pine SW 5th SOUTHWEST PINE STREET Saturday ESPLANADE SE ANKENY STREET
SOUTHWEST BROADWAY
Fountain
5TH AVENUE
SOUTHWEST ANKENY STREET
SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE
SOUTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
Market
Portland Institute for
Contemporary Art
SOUTHWEST ASH STREET
Provi-
dence
& Oak
O'BRYANT
SE ASH STREET
SOUTHWEST 3RD AVENUE
Park
EASTBANK
SQUARE
SE
Sentinel
PINE
ST
Oregon Maritime
SOUTHWEST 14TH AVE SOUTHWEST 13TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 12TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 11TH AVENUE Hotel SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST ALDER SOUTHWEST STREET SOUTHWEST 2ND AVENUE Oak/SW GOVERNOR SOUTHEAST 2ND AVENUE SE OAK STREET MARTIN LUTHER K
Center and Museum
1st Ave
Galleria/SW
10th Ave
SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON
SOUTHWEST TAYLOR STREET
SW STARK STREET
TOM McCALL
Pioneer
Library/SW
9th Ave
SOUTHWEST SALMON STREET
PIONEER
PARK
COURTHOUSE Square North Mall/SW STREET SOUTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY WATERFRONT INTERSTATE 5 SOUTHEAST STARK STREET
5th Ave
SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE DOWNTOWN Pioneer Place/ SOUTHWEST STREET Yamhill Morrison Bridge SE MORRISON AVENUE
Multnomah SQUARE SOUTHWEST MORRISON SOUTHWEST 1ST AVENUE
Pioneer
County Library Square South Courthouse Mall/SW Morrison/ SOUTHEAST WASHINGTON SOUTHEAST 3RD AVENUE
Pioneer
STREET
SW 3rd Ave
4th Ave
SOUTHEAST ALDER STREET
SW 5th
SOUTHWEST MAIN STREET
District
SOUTHWEST
YAMHILL STREET
TAYLOR STREET
US_PNW_086-089_StreetFinder.indd 87 04/07/16 12:34 pm

Portland'5 SW TAYLOR ST SE BELMONT STREET
Centers for
the Arts
SQUARE
Portland SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST MAIN ST LOWNSDALE SOUTHWEST
Art Museum Oregon SW 6th Portland CHAPMAN Mark O. Hatfield SALMON ST SOUTHEAST WATER STREET SOUTHEAST 1ST AVENUE SOUTHEAST YAMHILL STREET
Historical
Building
SOUTHWEST 13TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 12TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 11TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE Church BLOCKS SOUTHWEST COLUMBIA STREET SW 2ND AVENUE SOUTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY GOVERNOR SOUTHEAST SALMON STREET SOUTHEAST 3RD AVENUE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BOULEVARD
Society
SQUARE
The Old
&
US Courthouse
Madison
SOUTHEAST TAYLOR STREET
TOM MCCALL
City Hall/
SOUTH
SW 5th &
WATERFRONT PARK
Jefferson
PARK
SOUTHWEST MADISON STREET
SOUTHWEST JEFFERSON STREET
SOUTHEAST MAIN STREET
SOUTHWEST PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST MARKET STREET KOIN Center SOUTHWEST 1ST AVENUE Hawthorne Bridge SOUTHEAST MADISON STREET
SOUTHWEST CLAY STREET
Building
SOUTHWEST MONTGOMERY STREET
Portland State
University PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST MILL STREET Keller SOUTHEAST HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD
Auditorium
SOUTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
PSU/SW 6th &
Montgomery SW Mill SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 3RD AVENUE PETTYGROVE Willamette River AVENUE SOUTHEAST 2ND SOUTHEAST CLAY STREET
SOUTHWEST BROADWAY SOUTHWEST HALL STREET PARK ESPLANADE SOUTHEAST MARKET STREET
SOUTHWEST 5TH AVE
EASTBANK
SE MILL STREET
Marina
PSU South/ SW HARRISON STREET MONTGOMERY RiverPlace
SOUTHWEST
SW 6th & LOVEJOY STREET SOUTHEAST STEPHENS STREET
SOUTHWEST COLLEGE STREET
College
PSU South/ PARK
SOUTHWEST JACKSON STREET (opens 2015)
SW 5th
SOUTHWEST RIVER DRIVE INTERSTATE 5
& Jackson
(opens 2015) SE HARRISON ST
SOUTHWEST LINCOLN STREET Marquam Bridge Oregon Museum
of Science
and Industry (OMSI)
SW SHERMAN ST SOUTHWEST HARBOR WAY
OMSI/SE
Water Ave
S W MOODY ST SE Water & SE Tilikum
S W BUCKINGHAM AVENU E SW HOFFMAN AVENUE SOUTHWEST 6TH STREET SOUTHWEST SHERIDAN STREET
SW CARUTHERS ST
SW CHELMSFORD AVENUE
SOUTHWE ST BRO ADWAY DRIVE DUNIWAY SW ARTHUR STREET SOUTH WEST HOOD AVE BALDOCK FREEWAY Willamette River Tilikum Crossing
PARK
SOUTHWEST MEADE STREET
South Waterfront/
SW Moody
SOUTHWEST HOOKER STREET SOUTHWEST MOODY AVENUE
S A M J A C KSON PARK ROAD SOUTHWEST BARBUR BOULEVARD
SOUTHWEST
SOUTHWEST 2ND AVENUE
Ross Island Bridge
SOUTHWEST TERWILLIGER BOUL EVARD
KELLY AVENUE
Oregon Health
Science University
US_PNW_086-089_StreetFinder.indd 88 04/07/16 12:34 pm

Portland'5 SW TAYLOR ST SE BELMONT STREET
Centers for
the Arts
SQUARE
Portland SOUTHWEST 9TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST MAIN ST LOWNSDALE SOUTHWEST
Art Museum Oregon SW 6th Portland CHAPMAN Mark O. Hatfield SALMON ST SOUTHEAST WATER STREET SOUTHEAST 1ST AVENUE SOUTHEAST YAMHILL STREET
Historical
SOUTHWEST 13TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 12TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 11TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 10TH AVENUE Church SOUTH SOUTHWEST COLUMBIA STREET SW 2ND AVENUE SOUTHWEST NAITO PARKWAY GOVERNOR SOUTHEAST SALMON STREET SOUTHEAST 3RD AVENUE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BOULEVARD
Building
Society
The Old
SQUARE
&
US Courthouse
Madison
SOUTHEAST TAYLOR STREET
TOM MCCALL
City Hall/
SW 5th &
WATERFRONT PARK
Jefferson
PARK
BLOCKS
SOUTHWEST MADISON STREET
SOUTHWEST JEFFERSON STREET
SOUTHEAST MAIN STREET
SOUTHWEST PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST MARKET STREET KOIN Center SOUTHWEST 1ST AVENUE Hawthorne Bridge SOUTHEAST MADISON STREET
SOUTHWEST CLAY STREET
Building
SOUTHWEST MONTGOMERY STREET
Portland State
University PARK AVENUE SOUTHWEST MILL STREET Keller SOUTHEAST HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD
Auditorium
SOUTHWEST 6TH AVENUE
PSU/SW 6th &
Montgomery SW Mill SOUTHWEST 4TH AVENUE SOUTHWEST 3RD AVENUE PETTYGROVE Willamette River AVENUE SOUTHEAST 2ND SOUTHEAST CLAY STREET
SOUTHWEST 5TH AVE
SOUTHWEST BROADWAY SOUTHWEST HALL STREET PARK ESPLANADE SOUTHEAST MARKET STREET
EASTBANK
SE MILL STREET
Marina
PSU South/ SW HARRISON STREET MONTGOMERY RiverPlace
SOUTHWEST
SW 6th & LOVEJOY STREET SOUTHEAST STEPHENS STREET
SOUTHWEST COLLEGE STREET
College
SOUTHWEST JACKSON STREET (opens 2015)
PSU South/ PARK
SW 5th
SOUTHWEST RIVER DRIVE INTERSTATE 5
& Jackson
(opens 2015) SE HARRISON ST
SOUTHWEST LINCOLN STREET Marquam Bridge Oregon Museum
of Science
and Industry (OMSI)
SW SHERMAN ST SOUTHWEST HARBOR WAY
OMSI/SE
Water Ave
S W MOODY ST SE Water & SE Tilikum
S W BUCKINGHAM AVENU E SW HOFFMAN AVENUE SOUTHWEST 6TH STREET SOUTHWEST SHERIDAN STREET
SW CARUTHERS ST
SW CHELMSFORD AVENUE
SOUTHWE ST BRO ADWAY DRIVE DUNIWAY SW ARTHUR STREET SOUTH WEST HOOD AVE BALDOCK FREEWAY Willamette River Tilikum Crossing
PARK
SOUTHWEST MEADE STREET
South Waterfront/
SW Moody
SOUTHWEST HOOKER STREET SOUTHWEST MOODY AVENUE
S A M J A C KSON PARK ROAD SOUTHWEST BARBUR BOULEVARD
SOUTHWEST
SOUTHWEST 2ND AVENUE
Ross Island Bridge
SOUTHWEST TERWILLIGER BOUL EVARD
KELLY AVENUE
Oregon Health
Science University
US_PNW_086-089_StreetFinder.indd 89 04/07/16 12:34 pm

US_PNW_090-091_OregonIntro.indd 90 04/07/16 12:38 pm

OREGON  91

OREGON


Oregonians and their visitors alike run out of adjectives
to describe the scenic wonders contained within the
97,000 sq miles (251,200 sq km) of the tenth largest US state.
Here, snowcapped mountains pierce the clouds, waves break
on rocky shores, rivers sprint through gorges, dense forests cling
to ravines, and desert vistas stretch beneath skies that, indeed,
are not cloudy all day.

A forest-cloaked headland, tidal estuary, desert country in the east. These
or stretch of isolated beach appears landscapes provide more than memorable
around every bend of the 363-mile views. Hiking trails lace the forests, and
(584-km) Oregon coastline. In the north, rushing white-water rivers, such as the
the mighty Columbia River flows through Rogue and Deschutes, brim with trout,
a magnificent gorge where waterfalls salmon, and sturgeon, attracting white-
plummet from cliffs. Those traveling water rafters and anglers. Lakes sparkle
alongside the river follow in the footsteps with crystal-clear water; the most
of explorers Lewis and Clark, who canoed awesome of them, Crater Lake, is the
the rushing waters in 1805. The Snake deepest in North America. And the slopes
River, a tributary of the Columbia River, of Mount Hood are covered with snow –
tumbles through inhospitable desert and skiers – all year.
at the bottom of 8,000-ft (2,440-m) Oregon serves up cosmopolitan
Hells Canyon, the deepest gorge in pleasures, too. Portlanders are quick
North America. to claim their city as one of the most
Looking at such rugged landscapes, it is sophisticated and cultured anywhere.
easy to imagine the hardships hundreds But even out-of-the-way places, such
of thousands of pioneers encountered as as Ashland, of Shakespeare Festival
they migrated west along the Oregon Trail. fame, stage notable events.
Then, of course, there are the mountains – Wherever a traveler goes in Oregon,
the Coast range taking shape above or whatever they do, the glimmer
coastal headlands, the Cascades, peaks of a distant mountain peak and the
soaring above the central valleys, the scent of pine in the air will add an extra
Wallowas and Blues rising from high zest to the experience.



















Cowboys in the sagebrush-dotted ranching settlement of Jordan Valley
Imnaha River carving its way through Canyon, Hells Canyon Recreation Area, Oregon



US_PNW_090-091_OregonIntro.indd 91 04/07/16 12:38 pm

92  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Oregon

Travelers in Oregon will find that almost any drive inevitably
takes them through beautiful landscapes. From Portland, day
trips can easily be made to the Columbia River Gorge and
Mount Hood, to the north and central coasts, and to the wine
country and historic towns of the Willamette Valley. From the
Pacific beaches, breathtakingly scenic drives lead across the
Coast Range to Bend and central Oregon, Bybee-Howell House, a Sauvie Island
and from there through pine forests and landmark, northwest of Portland
high desert country to such natural
wonders as Crater Lake, Steens
Mountain, and Hells Canyon. ASTORIA
Milton-
CANNON Freewater
Sights at a Glance BEACH Columbia Hermiston
2 Astoria COLUMBIA Columbia HELLS CANYON
NATIONAL
3 Cannon Beach Nehalem RIVER GORGE Hood River Arlington PENDLETON Grand Ronde RECREATION AREA
4 Tillamook The Dalles B l u e M o u n t a i n s
5 Three Capes Scenic Route TILLAMOOK Portland Mt Hood Pilot JOSEPH
Rock
6 Lincoln City THREE Newburg Oregon City 3424 m Heppner La Wallowa WALLOWA LAKE
Grande
7 Newport CAPES C o a s t R a n ge s NORTH Valley Condon Union Mountains
Tygh
8 Yachats McMINNVILLE WILLAMETTE VALLEY John Day Ukiah
9 Cape Perpetua Scenic Area LINCOLN SILVERTON North Powder
0 Florence CITY SALEM Deschutes JOHN DAY Oxbow
q Oregon Dunes National Depoe Bay WARM SPRINGS FOSSIL BEDS Granite ELKHORN Baker City
NATIONAL
Recreation Area NEWPORT Albany Mt Jefferson MONUMENT DRIVE Snake
w Bandon Corvallis Lebanon 3199 m MADRAS Mitchell
r McMinnville John Day Huntington
t Silverton g e SMITH ROCK Mount Vernon
y Salem YACHATS CAPE n SISTERS Strawberry Mountain Brogan
2755 m
u Eugene PERPETUA R a Ontario
i Madras and Warm Springs FLORENCE EUGENE BEND Crooked Seneca

o Sisters CASCADE LAKES OREGON

p Smith Rock State Park OREGON HIGHWAY Malheur Harper

a Bend DUNES Oakridge NEWBERRY Juntura
s Newberry National Lakeside NATIONAL Burns
VOLCANIC
Volcanic Monument North C o a s t R a n g e s Sutherlin d e Crescent MONUMENT Har ne y Crane Lake
g Oregon Caves National Bend Coos a Basin Malheur Owyhee
Monument Bay s c Chemult Wagontire Harney Lake MALHEUR NATIONAL
h Jacksonville Roseburg a Mt Thielsen Silver Lake Lake WILDLIFE REFUGE
2799 m
j Ashland BANDON C JORDAN
l Jordan Valley Riddle Union Creek CRATER LAKE STEENS VALLEY
Cape
z Malheur National Blanco Port NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAIN
Wildlife Refuge Orford Wolf Creek Paisley Frenchglen Burns Owyhee
Junction
x John Day Fossil Beds Rogue Chiloquin Lake Abert Alvord
National Monument Mt McLoughlin Desert
c Pendleton Grants Pass 2894 m Upper Klamath Valley Hart Mountain
Lake
2331 m
b Joseph Pistol Medford Bly Falls
River
n Wallowa Lake JACKSONVILLE ASHLAND Klamath Falls
Brookings Lakeview
Tours OREGON CAVES Merrill
1 Columbia River Gorge and NATIONAL MONUMENT
Mount Hood pp94–95
e Wine Country of the North
Willamette Valley pp102–3 k Steens Mountain p113
d Cascade Lakes Highway v Elkhorn Drive National Scenic
pp108–9 Byway pp116–17
f Crater Lake National Park m Hells Canyon National Recreation
pp110–11 Area pp118–19
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_092-093_ExploringOR.indd 92 04/07/16 12:38 pm

OREGON  93

Getting Around
I-5, running north–south, and I-84, running
east to Idaho and the Midwest, are
Oregon’s two major routes. Hwy 26 runs
through lovely landscape from the coast
across Mount Hood into eastern Oregon.
Hwy 101 follows the coast; Hwy 97,
another scenic north–south route, skirts
the Cascade Mountains and Crater Lake.
Driving is the most convenient way to
travel in Oregon. Amtrak offers three train
routes: one east to Chicago, two along the
coast. Bus service is limited. Hood River, a small town on the Columbia River Gorge
ASTORIA
Milton-
CANNON Freewater
BEACH Columbia Columbia Hermiston HELLS CANYON
COLUMBIA
NATIONAL
Nehalem RIVER GORGE Hood River Arlington PENDLETON Grand Ronde RECREATION AREA
TILLAMOOK Portland The Dalles Pilot B l u e M o u n t a i n s JOSEPH
Mt Hood
THREE Newburg Oregon City 3424 m Heppner Rock La Wallowa WALLOWA LAKE
Grande
CAPES C o a s t R a n ge s NORTH Tygh Mountains
McMINNVILLE WILLAMETTE VALLEY Valley John Day Condon Ukiah Union
LINCOLN SILVERTON North Powder
CITY SALEM Deschutes Oxbow
JOHN DAY
Depoe Bay WARM SPRINGS FOSSIL BEDS Granite ELKHORN Baker City Key
NATIONAL
NEWPORT Albany Mt Jefferson MADRAS Mitchell MONUMENT DRIVE Snake Highway
Major road
Corvallis Lebanon 3199 m Minor road

g e SMITH ROCK John Day Huntington Scenic route
YACHATS n SISTERS Mount Vernon Strawberry Mountain
CAPE a 2755 m Brogan Main railroad
PERPETUA R Crooked Seneca Ontario Minor railroad
FLORENCE EUGENE BEND OREGON State border
CASCADE LAKES


OREGON HIGHWAY Malheur Harper Summit
DUNES Oakridge NEWBERRY Juntura
Lakeside e NATIONAL Har ne y Burns
VOLCANIC
North C o a s t R a n g e s Sutherlin d Crescent MONUMENT Crane Lake
Bend a Basin Malheur Owyhee
Coos
Bay s c Chemult Wagontire Harney Lake MALHEUR NATIONAL
BANDON Roseburg C a Mt Thielsen Silver Lake Lake WILDLIFE REFUGE JORDAN
2799 m
Riddle Union Creek CRATER LAKE VALLEY
Cape NATIONAL PARK STEENS
Blanco Port MOUNTAIN
Orford Wolf Creek Paisley Frenchglen Burns Owyhee
Junction
Chiloquin Lake Abert Alvord
Rogue
Mt McLoughlin Desert
Grants Pass 2894 m Upper Klamath
Lake Valley Hart Mountain
Pistol Medford Bly Falls 2331 m
River
JACKSONVILLE Klamath Falls
Brookings ASHLAND Lakeview
Merrill
OREGON CAVES
NATIONAL MONUMENT
0 kilometers 50
0 miles 40 Rocks rising from the sea near Tillamook, Oregon coast
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_092-093_ExploringOR.indd 93 04/07/16 12:38 pm

94  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION


1 Columbia River Gorge and Mount Hood
Driving Tour

This easy outing from Portland encompasses a diverse
sampling of Oregon scenery, including the banks of the
Columbia River as it flows through a magnificent gorge and
the spectacular summit of Mount Hood. Along the way, the
route takes in five waterfalls, the bountiful orchards that
surround the Hood River, and picturesque Timberline Lodge.
Other features of this tour include scenic overlooks, rushing
streams, mountain lakes, enormous glaciers, and dense forests.
3 Oneonta Gorge
Hardier hikers will enjoy
walking through this
4 Bonneville Dam dramatic gorge. It can also be
A tour of this 1930s dam viewed at the south end of a
reveals massive hydroelectric trail starting in Horsetail Falls.
powerhouses, as well as
underwater views of migrating
salmon, and a fish hatchery.
Stevenson
Hood River
Bonneville
MOUNT HOOD LOOP
Ainsworth

Troutdale J
Portland J
2 Multnomah Falls Corbett
The fourth-highest Gresham
waterfall in the US
tumbles 620 ft
(188 m) in two
picturesque cascades. Mount
Sandy Hood
1 Vista House Zigzag J
This historic, octagonal structure perched
high above the river offers breathtaking
views of the gorge and mountains.
•
Still Creek









0 kilometers 15
0 miles 10
q Timberline Lodge Key
Artisans hired by the federal Works Project Administration
crafted every detail of this beautiful 1930s ski lodge, from the Tour route
wrought-iron door handles to its massive wood beams. Other road

For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8


US_PNW_094-095_DrivingTour.indd 94 04/07/16 12:38 pm

OREGON  95


5 Ruthton Point
This cape situated in Tips for Drivers
a small state park
makes a perfect Tour length: 146 miles (235 km).
stopping-off point from Starting point: I-84 in Portland.
which to view the Stopping-off points: The most
mighty Columbia River scenic places to enjoy a meal are
Gorge and the the two historic lodges on the
surrounding Cascade loop, one at Multnomah Falls
mountain range. in the gorge and the other at
Timberline atop Mount Hood.
At both, salmon, trout, and other
fresh Pacific Northwest cuisine
can be enjoyed in front of a
blazing hearth.







Columbia River
Mosier
Hood River J
Maryhill
6 Hood River
Dee Winds and river currents create
the ideal conditions that render
HISTORIC COLUMBIA RIVER HIGHWAY
this riverside town the wind-
surfing capital of the world.
Landlubbers enjoy the bounty
of local fruit orchards.

Mount
Hood J MOUNT HOOD LOOP



9 Parkdale This pretty little town on the eastern
slopes of Mount Hood is the terminus of the
•
Still Creek Mount Hood Railroad, which passes through
apple and pear orchards to Hood River.
7 Historic Columbia River Highway
Blasted out of the steep cliffs and
Bend opened in 1915, this narrow road
was designed to maximize the view,
yet limit environmental damage
as much as possible.

8 Hood River Valley 0 Barlow Pass
This beautiful and fertile Wheel tracks still rut
valley offers blossoming this section of the
fruit trees in season and Oregon Trail, which is so
magnificent views of steep that wagons were
majestic Mount Hood often lowered down the
throughout the year. hills with ropes.

For keys to symbols see back flap


US_PNW_094-095_DrivingTour.indd 95 04/07/16 12:38 pm

96  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION


P Lewis and Clark National
dories and Native American
dugout canoes. The lightship Historical Park – Fort Clatsop Unit
6 miles (10 km) southwest of Astoria,
Columbia, berthed in front, off Hwy 101. Tel (503) 861-2471. Open
once guided ships across the 9am–6pm daily (Labor Day–mid-Jun:
treacherous mouth of the river – to 5pm). Closed Dec 25. & 7 =
where more than 200 shipwrecks
in the past century have earned P Captain George Flavel
for local waters the moniker House Museum
“graveyard of the Pacific.” 441 8th St. Tel (503) 325-2203. Open
One of the town's most May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; Oct–Apr:
11am–4pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
popular attractions is the historic Thanksgiving, Dec 24 & 25. &
1913 Astoria Riverfront Trolley.
The restored “Old 300” streetcar P Astoria Column
runs on original railroad tracks Atop Coxcomb Hill, off 16th St.
from East End Mooring Basin Tel (503) 325-2963. Open dawn–dusk
The Astoria Column, with a scenic lookout to West End Mooring Basin. daily. ∑ astoriacolumn.org
of the port at its top This 3-mile (5-km) route provides E Columbia River
great views, and covers docks, Maritime Museum
2 Astoria piers, shops, and restaurants 1792 Marine Dr. Tel (503) 325-2323.
along Astoria’s historic water- Open 9:30am–5pm daily.
Road map 1 A3. * 9,500.
n 111 W Marine Dr, (800) 875-6807. front. It is also possible to spot Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& = ∑ crmm.org
∑ oldoregon.com sea lions and seals lounging
around on the docks. Despite v Astoria Riverfront Trolley
Throughout the damp winter of their popularity with tourists, the 480 Industry St. Tel (503) 861-5365.
1805–1806, explorers Lewis and sea lions pose concerns for town Open Memorial Day–Labor Day:
Clark (see p41) passed the time officials because of the noise noon–6pm daily, weather permitting;
making moccasins, preserving they make and the fact that they Labor Day–Memorial Day: check
fish, and recording in their steal a significant proportion of website for times. & ∑ old300.org
journals accounts of bear attacks local fishermen's catch.
and the almost continual rain at Locals and visitors alike gather ( Astoria Sunday Market
Commercial St & 12th St. Tel (503)
a crude stockade near Astoria. at the lively Astoria Sunday 325-1010. Open May–Oct: Sun.
This stockade at Lewis and Market held in downtown ∑ astoriasundaymarket.com
Clark National Historical Park – Astoria, which features up to 200
Fort Clatsop Unit was rebuilt farmers, craftspeople, and artisans
again after the first replica was who sell locally made, grown, or Environs
destroyed by fire in 2005. In gathered products. There is also Fort Stevens State Park, 10 miles
1811, John Jacob Astor sent fur live music and a food court. (16 km) west of Astoria, dates
traders around Cape Horn to Art walks take place every back to the Civil War, when it
establish a trading post in this second Saturday in the evening guarded the Columbia River from
location at the mouth of the in downtown Astoria. The venues, Confederate incursions. The only
Columbia River, making Astoria highlighted with colorful pin- time the fort saw action was on
the oldest American settlement wheels, exhibit original works of June 21, 1942, when a Japanese
west of the Rocky Mountains. art and culture, while businesses submarine fired 17 rounds
These days, the town is a stay open late to provide food toward the concrete bunkers that
major port for fishing fleets and and entertainment. were still buried in the dunes.
commercial vessels; its Victorian
homes climb a hillside above the
river. One such home, the stately
Captain George Flavel House
Museum, retains the cupola from
which the captain and his wife
once observed river traffic. An
even better view can be enjoyed
from atop the 164-step spiral
staircase of the Astoria Column,
encircled with bas-relief
friezes paying homage to the
region’s past – from the Native
Americans to the arrival of the
Great Northern Railway in 1892.
The town honors its sea going
past at the Columbia River
Maritime Museum, where
riverside galleries house fishing The Astoria Riverfront Trolley, which runs along the Columbia River
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8

US_PNW_096-097_Cat1.indd 96 04/07/16 12:34 pm

OREGON  97


Y Fort Stevens State Park 5 Three Capes
Off Hwy 101. Tel (503) 861-1671. Scenic Route
Open dawn–dusk daily. Closed
Dec 25. & = ∑ visitftstevens.com Road map 1 A3. Oregon State Parks
Association: Tel (800) 551-6949.
∑ oregonstateparks.org
3 Cannon Beach
Along this 35-mile (56-km)
Road map 1 A3. * 1,600. n 2nd &
Spruce Sts, (503) 436-2623. loop that follows the marshy
∑ cannonbeach.org shores of Tillamook Bay,
roadside markers recount
Despite its status as Oregon’s the fate of Bayocean, a resort
favorite beach town, Cannon that thrived in the early 20th
Beach retains a great deal of Packaging cheese at the Tillamook County century but was washed away
quiet charm. The surrounding Creamery Association in winter storms. For most of
forests grow almost up to the drive, though, nature is
Hemlock Street, where buildings sample its output of 78 million the main attraction.
clad with weathered cedar lb (35 million kg) of cheese per The rocks below Cape Meares
shingles house art galleries. year, including smoked cheddar State Scenic Viewpoint and
Haystack Rock, one of the and pepper jack. Cape Meares Lighthouse are
tallest coastal monoliths in During World War II, Tillamook home to one of the largest
the world, towers 235 ft (72 m) was the base for giant blimps colonies of nesting seabirds in
above a long beach and tidal that patrolled the coast for North America. In Cape Lookout
pools teeming with life. Japanese submarines. One of State Park, trails pass through
Ecola State Park, at the beach’s the hangars – at 1,100 ft (335 m) old-growth forests to clifftop
north end, carpets Tillamook long and 15 stories tall the viewpoints – good places to
Head, an 1,100-ft (335-m) basalt largest wood structure in the spot migrating gray whales –
headland, with forests accessible world – houses the Tillamook and to a sand spit between the
via Tillamook Head Trail. View- Air Museum, which boasts a ocean and Netarts Bay. This is
points look across raging surf fine collection of flying boats, also a popular camping area,
to Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, early helicopters, and some 30 with campsites, cabins, and
built in 1880 and soon known as other restored vintage aircraft. yurts. In the Cape Kiwanda
“Terrible Tillie,” as waves, logs, and Natural Area, waves crash into
rocks continually washed through Tillamook County massive sandstone cliffs and
the structure. Decommissioned Creamery Association offshore rock formations. The
in 1957, the lighthouse is now 4175 Hwy 101 N. Tel (503) 815-1300. beach along the cape draws
a private mor tuary. Tillamook Open mid-Jun–Labor Day: 8am–8pm surfers as well as fishermen.
Rock, a wildlife refuge closed to daily; Labor Day–mid-Jun: 8am–6pm Pacific City, at the route’s south
the public, is home to nesting daily. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. end, is home to a fleet of fishing
murres and cormorants. = ∑ tillamook.com dories that daringly ply the surf
E Tillamook Air Museum on their way out to sea.
Y Ecola State Park 6030 Hangar Rd. Tel (503) 842-1130. The Oregon State Parks
2 miles (3 km) north of Cannon Beach, Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Association provides detailed
off Hwy 101. Tel (503) 436-2844. Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 - = information about the sights
Open dawn–dusk daily. & ∑ tillamookair.com along this stunning route.
4 Tillamook
Road map 1 A3. * 4,600.
n 3705 Hwy 101 N, (503) 842-7525.
∑ gotillamook.com
Tillamook sits about 10 miles
(16 km) inland from the sea in
rich bottomland fed by five
rivers that empty into Tillamook
Bay. Green pastures, nurtured by
more than 70 inches (178 cm) of
rain a year, sustain 40,000 cows
that supply milk for the historic
Tillamook County Creamery
Association, commonly known
as “The Cheese Factory”. Here,
visitors can view the facilities and Impressive sandstone cliffs at Cape Kiwanda Natural Area, along the Three Cape Scenic Route




US_PNW_096-097_Cat1.indd 97 04/07/16 12:34 pm

98  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION


Y Devil’s Punchbowl State
Natural Area
15 miles (24 km) south of Lincoln City,
off Hwy 101. Tel (800) 551-6949.
Open dawn–dusk daily.
7 Newport
Road map 1 A3. * 10,000.
n 555 SW Coast Hwy, (800) 262-
7844. ∑ discovernewport.com
This salty old port on Yaquina
Bay is home to the largest
commercial fishing fleet on
the Oregon coast and supports
many oystering operations. The
town is well accustomed to
Colorful kites at one of Lincoln City’s many kite shops tourists, too. Shingled resort
cottages in the Nye Beach
6 Lincoln City 60 ft (18 m). A local amusement neighborhood date from the
is watching the fishing fleet 1880s, and in the late 1990s
Road map 1 A3. * 8,000. n 4039
NW Logan Rd, (541) 994-3070. “shoot the hole,” or navigate travelers came from around the
∑ oregoncoast.org the narrow channel that cuts world to visit Keiko, an orca whale
through sheer rock walls that resided in the internationally
In 1965, five individual com- between the sea and the renowned Oregon Coast
munities united to form one tiny inland harbor, which lays Aquarium and gained stardom
town called Lincoln City. Situated claim to being the in the Free Willy
along Highway 101, the long city smallest navigable films. Keiko left the
boasts several natural attractions. harbor in the world. aquarium in 1998.
Formerly called Devil’s River, the More excitement The place is still
D River flows only 120 ft (36 m) – may be in store at popular, however,
from Devil’s Lake to the Pacific the Otter Crest with plenty to
Ocean – making it the world’s State Scenic Fish market sign in Newport see and experi-
shortest river. The 7.5-mile- Viewpoint atop ence. Surf Perch,
(12-km-) long beach, littered Cape Foul-weather, so named Pacific Cod, and flounders swim
with driftwood and agates, is by Captain James Cook in around pier pilings in the Sandy
popular with kite enthusiasts, 1778 because of the 100-mph Shores exhibit, jellyfish float
who enjoy the strong winds (160-km/h) winds that regularly through the Coastal Waters
off the sea. buffet it. This promontory exhibit, and Wolf Eels peek out
To the north, the steep cliffs provides an excellent view of of crevices along the Rocky
of Cascade Head Preserve rise the adjacent Devil’s Punchbowl Shores gallery. In Passages
out of the surf, then give way to State Natural Area, where the of the Deep, sharks and rays
mossy rainforests of Sitka spruce foaming sea thunders into rocky swim in an 800,000-gallon
and hemlock and a maritime hollows formed by the collapse (3,028,329-liter) tank overhead,
grassland prairie. Many rare of sea caves. Tidal pools on the and alongside in glass viewing
plants and animals, including rocky shore below are known as tunnels. Outdoors, tufted puffins
the Oregon silver spot butterfly, marine gardens because of the and murres fly through North
thrive in the preserve, which colorful sea urchins and starfish America’s largest seabird aviary,
can be explored on steep but that inhabit them. The park is and sea otters, sea lions, and
well-maintained trails. a popular whale-watching site. seals frolic in saltwater pools.
} Cascade Head Preserve
2 miles (3 km) north of Lincoln City,
off Hwy 101. Tel (503) 230-1221.
Lower trail: Open dawn–dusk daily.
Upper trail: Open mid-Jul–Dec.
Environs
At Depoe Bay, a little fishing
port 12 miles (19 km) south of
Lincoln City, rough seas blast
through narrow channels in the
basalt rock, creating geyser-like
plumes that shoot as high as Picturesque fishing boats moored in Newport’s harbor
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8


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