(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Pacific Northwest

BRITISH C OL UMBIA  249

Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Main railroad
Minor railroad
International border
Provincial border
Summit

Legislative Chamber in the provincial Parliament Buildings, Victoria
Simpson Peak Getting Around
Atlin 2173 m Coal River Liard
Atlin Good Hope Several major highways cross British Columbia: the
Lake Lake Cassiar Mountains MUNCHO LAKE Trans-Canada (Highway 1), Crowsnest (Highway 3), and
PROVINCIAL PARK
Yellowhead (Highway 16). The Coquihalla (Highway 5) is a
FORT NELSON four-lane route between Hope and Kamloops. It is 45 miles
Meszah Peak
C
2164 m (73 km) shorter than the Trans-Canada route. Highway 97
o Mount Roosevelt
Dease Lake
a 2972 m links Dawson Creek with Whitehorse, in the Yukon. On
s Glenora Prophet River
t Vancouver Island, Highways 1, 4, and 19 are the main
Mount Lloyd George routes. VIA trains and Greyhound buses travel to many BC
Mount Edziza 2970 m
Mount Ratz 2787 m
3136 m M destinations. Work to improve the roads and highways in
Canada’s national historic sites, national parks, and marine
o
Stikine u t Skeena Moun tains Sikanni Chief ALASKA HIGHWAY conservation areas is ongoing. Visit www.pc.gc.ca for up-to-
n
date information.
a
FORT
i
ST. JOHN
n
Meziadin Hudson's Hope
s
Junction DAWSON
Williston CREEK
Lake
Chetwynd Tupper
Takla
THE Lake Mackenzie
HAZELTONS Tumbler Ridge
O m i n e c a M o u n t a i n s
CRUISE TO
ALASKA SMITHERS BRITISH COLUMBIA
Skeena Babine Fort St. James
Lake
Masset PRINCE Fraser Lake Mount Sir Alexander
Graham RUPERT Kitimat Fraser 3274 m
Island PRINCE GEORGE McBride
Skidegate Eutsuk Mount Robson
Lake 3954 m
Princess Nazko Wooden waterwheel, Fort Steele Heritage Town
Royal Valemount
Moresby Island
Island Anahim Columbia Mountains
Lake Fraser WELLS GRAY Mount Columbia
3741 m
Plateau PROVINCIAL PARK
HAIDA GWAII
Bella Bella Williams Mica YOHO
Monarch Mountain Lake Clearwater Creek NATIONAL PARK
Queen 3533 m
Charlotte Mount Waddington GLACIER KOOTENAY
Sound 4016 m Fraser NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL PARK
Clinton
Revelstoke RADIUM HOT SPRINGS
Port Hardy Lillooet KAMLOOPS Invermere
Coast Mountains
PURCELL MOUNTAINS
Campbell OKANAGAN
River WHISTLER VALLEY KELOWNA FORT STEELE
HERITAGE TOWN
Vancouver Powell SUMMERLAND Nelson Cranbrook Fernie
River
Island Castlegar
Vancouver Hope THE KOOTENAYS
NANAIMO Abbotsford
Tofino GULF ISLANDS Osoyoos
PACIFIC RIM CHEMAINUS
NPR COWICHAN
BUTCHART VICTORIA REGION
GARDENS
For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 Victoria

A quiet city, Victoria has an old-fashioned atmosphere, one
enhanced by the hanging flower baskets that decorate the
streets. Established as a Hudson’s Bay Company fur-trading
post in 1843 by James Douglas, Victoria had its risqué
moments during its Gold Rush years (1858–64), when
thousands of prospectors drank in its saloons. Established
as the capital of British Columbia in 1871, Victoria was
soon outgrown by Vancouver. Today, this multicultural
city is still BC’s political center, as well as a popular Historic buildings along Yates Street, typical
attraction for visitors. of Victoria’s Old Town Victoria Airport
25 km (15 miles)
CHINATOWN McPherson F I S G A R D S T R E E T
was, in the 1800s, Victoria’s Playhouse
commercial center. Downtown STORE ST ALLEY FAN TAN CENTENNIAL C OR M ORAN T S TRE ET
SQUARE
Victoria
stretches from Inner Harbour Train Station
to Quadra, Belleville, and City Hall
Herald Streets. Historic Fort J O H NSON ST BRIDGE Market PA N D O R A A V E N U E
Street is home to Fabulous Square J O H N
Fort Street, lined with eateries,
shops, and antique stores.
The visitors’ center provides G O V E R N M E N T S T R E E T BROAD STREET S O N S T R E E T
YAT E S S T R E E T
details on walking tours, Victoria
including ghostly walks Harbour Bastion V I E W S TR EE T St. Andrew’s Q U A D R A S T R E E T
Square
and historical tours. The Bay
Inner
J Inner Harbour Harbour Centre D O U G L A S S T R E E T F O R T S T R E E T
Foot of Government St. W H A R F S T B L A N S H A R D S T R E E T Cathedral
Craigdarroch Castle
Home to the Songhees, of the BROUGHTON STREET
Coast Salish Nation, between COURTNEY STREET Art Gallery of
1850 and 1911, the Inner Victoria COURTNEY STREET Greater Victoria,
Parliament buildings illuminate the waters Harbour today is vibrant with Bug Zoo Government House
of the Inner Harbour boats, pedestrians strolling along James H U M B O L D T S T
the promenade, and street Bay B U R D E T T A V E
Exploring Victoria performers. Plaques along the Fairmont
Empress Hotel
Many of Victoria’s attractions walkway pay tribute to those DOWNTOWN
are downtown and in Old who shaped the harbor’s FA I R F IE LD R OA D
Bus
Town, which is bordered by history. The promenade offers B E LL E VI LLE ST REE T Terminal
Wharf, Humboldt, Douglas, excellent views not only of the
and Fisgard Streets. Plaques harbor but also of the Parliament
on historic buildings, now Buildings and Empress Hotel, O S W E G O S T R E E T Royal BC H U M B O L D T S T R E E T
housing funky shops and cafés, particularly in the reflecting Parliament Museum
offer insight into this area that sunlight of late afternoon. Buildings Helmcken
House
Thunderbird ACADEMY CLOSE
Park QUADRA ST
S U P E R I O R S T R E E T SOUTHG A T E S T R EET
S U P E R I O R S T R E E T
M I C H I G A N S T R E E T South
M E N Z I E S S T Beacon Hill
Park
Park
T O R O N T O S T R E E T AVALON ROAD D O U G L A S S T R E E T
S I M C O E S T R E E T
Emily Carr
House JAMES BAY
0 meters 500
Victoria’s busy Inner Harbour at the foot of Government Street 0 yards 500
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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Sights at a Glance VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
1 Inner Harbour 9 Fairmont Empress Hotel
2 Bastion Square 0 Helmcken House Practical Information
Road map 2 B5. * 80,000.
3 Market Square q Royal BC Museum n 812 Wharf St, (250) 953-2033.
4 Chinatown w Thunderbird Park _ TD Victoria International
5 Centennial Square e Parliament Buildings JazzFest (mid-Jun).
6 The Bay Centre r Emily Carr House ∑ tourismvictoria.com
7 St. Andrew’s Cathedral t Beacon Hill Park Transport
8 Victoria Bug Zoo k Victoria Airport, 15 miles (25 km)
N of city. @ Pacific Coach Lines,
P Bastion Square 700 Douglas St. g BC Ferries.
Government St. Open daily. 7
Victoria Airport
25 km (15 miles) This beautifully restored
CHINATOWN McPherson F I S G A R D S T R E E T square faces Victoria’s May to September, the vibrant
Playhouse picturesque harbor open-air Bastion Square Public
CENTENNIAL
SQUARE and contains some Market (Thu–Sat) features local
Victoria C OR M ORAN T S TRE ET
ALLEY
of the city’s oldest
FAN TAN
STORE ST
Train Station City Hall 19th-century produce, handmade arts and
crafts, and live entertainment.
G O V E R N M E N T S T R E E T BROAD STREET S O N S T R E E T the boom era of the
J O H NSON ST BRIDGE Market J O H N PA N D O R A A V E N U E buildings. What were
once luxury hotels and
Square
offices, built during
late 1800s, now house
YAT E S S T R E E T
Victoria boutiques and gift
Harbour Bastion St. Andrew’s shops. Restoration
Square V I E W S TR EE T Q U A D R A S T R E E T began in 1963, when
Centre
Inner The Bay F O R T S T R E E T it was discovered that
the Hudson’s Bay Com-
Harbour W H A R F S T D O U G L A S S T R E E T B L A N S H A R D S T R E E T Cathedral pany’s fur-trading post
Craigdarroch Castle
Fort Victoria (est.1843)
COURTNEY STREET BROUGHTON STREET Art Gallery of once stood on this site.
Victoria Greater Victoria, Today, this pedestrian
Bug Zoo COURTNEY STREET Government House
square includes the 1863
James H U M B O L D T S T MacDonald Block build-
Bay B U R D E T T A V E ing, built in Italianate
Fairmont
Empress Hotel style, with elegant
DOWNTOWN cast-iron columns and Decorative banners lining Market
arched windows. In Square, Victoria
Bus FA I R F IE LD R OA D summer, the square
Terminal
B E LL E VI LLE ST REE T
bustles with visitors P Market Square
O S W E G O S T R E E T Parliament Royal BC H U M B O L D T S T R E E T in one of the several Open 10am–5pm daily.
560 Johnson St. Tel (250) 386-2441.
and workers alike,
who come to lunch
Museum
Closed Dec 25. 7 partial.
Buildings
House
Bastion Square on the corner of
Thunderbird Helmcken ACADEMY CLOSE courtyard cafés. From Located two blocks north of
Park QUADRA ST Johnson Street, Market Square
S U P E R I O R S T R E E T SOUTHG A T E S T R EET boasts some of the finest
S U P E R I O R S T R E E T
Victorian saloon, hotel, and
M I C H I G A N S T R E E T South store façades in the city. Most
M E N Z I E S S T Beacon Hill of the buildings here date from
Park
the 1880s and 1890s, the boom
Park
T O R O N T O S T R E E T AVALON ROAD D O U G L A S S T R E E T period of the Klondike Gold
Rush (see p129). After decades
of neglect, the area received a
much-needed face-lift in 1975.
Today, the square is a shoppers’
S I M C O E S T R E E T
Emily Carr
House JAMES BAY paradise, with a variety of
stores selling everything from
books and jewelry to musical
instruments and other arts
and crafts. Concerts, festivals,
Bustling Bastion Square, dating back to the and other events are held
late 1880s here throughout the year.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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P Chinatown P St. Andrew’s Cathedral
Bounded by Pandora Ave & Store, 740 View St. Tel (250) 388-5571.
Government & Herald Sts. Open daily. 5 8am Tue–Fri,
Victoria’s Chinatown, the oldest 12:10pm Mon–Fri; 5pm Sat; 8am,
in Canada and once its largest, is 9:30am, 11am & 5pm Sun. 7
now the country’s smallest, yet its ∑ standrewscathedral.com
vegetable markets, curio shops, Built in 1892, this is the oldest
and restaurants provide hours’ Roman Catholic church in the
worth of exploration. The ornate area. The Victorian Gothic-style
Gate of Harmonious Interest cathedral made of stone, slate,
(Fisgard and Government Streets) and brick features a 175-ft-
leads into the two-block-square (53-m-) tall spire and stained-
area that was at one time home glass windows. Works of local
to Chinese railroad laborers and The Second Empire-style City Hall, with its First Nations artists were intro-
their families (see p215). clock tower duced in the 1980s. The altar
Fan Tan Alley, possibly the was designed by Charles Elliott,
world’s narrowest street, was mansard roof exemplifying of the Coast Salish Nation;
once filled with opium dens this style – was built in 1878. the candles on either side
and gambling houses. Today, In 1880, a fire station was added, of the pulpit are decorated
visitors will find an eclectic mix and, in 1891, a northeast wing. with First Nations designs.
of shops here. From the alley, The clock, installed in the
enter though the backdoor tower in 1891, is still wound
of Chinatown Trading Co. once a week. In 1963, the
(551 Fisgard Street) to see interior of City Hall was
artifacts from the district’s earlier completely renovated and
days, including those from a an International-style west
19th-century gambling house. wing was added.
P The Bay Centre
1150 Douglas St. Tel (250) 952-5690.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Wed & Sat,
10am–9pm Thu & Fri, 11am–6pm Sun.
7 ∑ thebaycentre.ca
The Bay Centre sits behind
the façades of several historic
buildings on Government Street.
The 1892 Driard Hotel was saved
from demo lition by a public
campaign, as were the fronts of
the 1910 Times Building and the St. Andrew’s Cathedral, Victoria’s oldest
19th-century Lettice and Sears Roman Catholic church
Building. Behind these and
The sunken knot garden behind City Hall other elegant façades, more O Victoria Bug Zoo
at Centennial Square than 90 shops on four floors 631 Courtney St. Tel (250) 384-2847.
sell everything from fashion to Open 11am–5pm daily.
Y Centennial Square handmade chocolates. In the Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 =
Bounded by Fisgard, Douglas & atrium hangs a clock, its several ∑ victoriabugzoo.ca
Government Sts & Pandora Ave. faces displaying the time in Located one block north of the
Created in 1963, Centennial various ports of the former iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel,
Square is part of an effort to British Empire. this unusual mini-zoo occupies
revitalize the city’s downtown.
Its centerpiece is a fountain
with concrete “totems” adorned
with mosaics by a local artist.
Surrounding the public space
are specialty shops, McPherson
Playhouse – which opened
in 1914 as the first Pantages
Theatre and which has a
beautiful Baroque interior –
a knot garden, and City Hall.
The Second Empire-style
south wing of City Hall – its
red-brick façade and tin The central atrium in Victoria’s Bay Centre, with its suspended clock
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  253


only two rooms. Here, visitors statue of Captain James Cook
can get up close and personal (see p40), who, though he
with some of the world’s most explored much of BC’s coast,
exotic insects. The Victoria never saw Victoria, ironically.
Bug Zoo exhibits more than
50 species of insects, arachnids, P Helmcken House
and myriapoda; it also boasts 10 Elliot Sq. Tel (250) 356-7226. Open
the largest ant farm in Canada, May–Oct: noon–4pm daily; Nov–
comprising a colony of leaf- Apr: call for hours. & 7 8 9
cutter ants. Visitors can wander ∑ royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/exhibits/
around the zoo independently tbird-park/html/early/earlhelm.htm
or join a free tour during which The home of Hudson’s Bay
the knowledge able guides Company employee Dr. John
share a series of fascinating Sebastian Helmcken was built
facts on their charges. It is also in 1852 and is one of the oldest
possible to hold one of the zoo’s surviving houses in British
friendly tarantulas, a surefire Columbia. The young doctor,
way to get over a fear of spiders. who later helped negotiate Woodburning stove at the historic
Also on display are some glow- BC’s entry into the Dominion Helmcken House
in-the-dark scorpions. The of Canada, built the house with
small gift shop stocks insect- his wife using Douglas additions reflect the change in
collecting kits, edible bug firs felled in the construction methods
snacks, and T-shirts. surrounding forest. in the second half of
Built using the the 19th century.
post-on-sill method The simple but
popular in French elegant dwelling
Canada, it was one contains many of the
of the first residences Sign for Helmcken House original furnishings,
outside the secure including the piano,
boundaries of Fort Victoria. which visitors are permitted to
A second section was added play. Other highlights include
to the house in 1856, and a Dr. Helmcken’s medical kit
third in 1884. Together, the and equipment.
From Fort to Capital
James Douglas fell in love with Camosack, the area known to many
now as Victoria, when he sailed into its harbor in 1842. As chief factor
of the Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC), he was there to establish a
fur-trading post and fort, in part an effort to thwart American
The entranceway to the grand Fairmont expansion into the region. Douglas was welcomed by the
Empress Hotel Lekwammen, ancestors of the Esquimalt and Songhee Nations.
In 1843, Fort Camosack (later Fort Victoria) was established. By the
P Fairmont Empress Hotel end of the decade, the First Nations of the area had signed treaties,
721 Government St. Tel (250) 384- selling much of their land to the HBC. Small farms quickly sprung up,
8111. Open daily. 7 See Where to and the harbor was soon a busy port and a stopping-off point for
Stay p291. ∑ fairmont.com prospectors in the 1858 Gold Rush. Victoria incorporated in 1862,
Completed in 1908 to a Francis four years later becoming capital of the Colony of British Columbia,
Rattenbury design and built on and the provincial capital once BC entered Confederation in 1871.
what were once mudflats and
the site of the city’s unofficial
dump, the Empress is one of
Victoria’s best-loved sights.
Overlooking the Inner Harbour,
the hotel dominates the city sky-
line with its ivy-covered Gothic
splendor. You do not have to be a
guest to experience the luxurious
decor of the hotel’s public bars
and lounges, such as the Crystal
Ballroom, with its Tiffany-glass
dome. Afternoon tea, a popular
Empress tradition, is served daily. View of the growing community of Victoria, 1860
In front of the hotel stands a




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Y Thunderbird Park and Upper Rotundas; the
Belleville & Douglas Sts. former, a perfect octagon, has
This compact park, at the a beautiful Italian mosaic floor.
entrance to the Royal BC British Columbia’s history
Museum (see pp256–7), is home is depicted throughout the
to an imposing collection of plain buildings. A statue of explorer
and painted giant totem poles. Captain George Vancouver
During the summer, First Nations perches on top of the main
artists carved these handsome dome. Inside, large murals
totems in the Thunderbird Park painted during the Great
Carving Studio. The poles show Depression show scenes
and preserve the legends of from BC history.
many different First Nations
of the Northwest Coast. Also in
the park, the Kwakwaka’wakw The spectacular main dome of the
big house, built in 1952, is a Parliament Buildings
replica of a 19th-century big
house in Fort Rupert. since 1956, though the buildings
were first lit up as early as 1887,
in celebration of Queen Victoria’s
diamond jubilee.
Designed by Francis Rattenbury
in 1892, the buildings were
completed in 1897, replacing the Emily Carr House, where the renowned
“Bird Cages,” BC’s first parliament artist lived as a child
buildings. (The carriage house
on Superior Street behind the P Emily Carr House
Parliament Buildings is the only 207 Government St. Tel (250) 383-
remaining Bird Cage structure.) 5843. Open May–Sep: 11am–4pm
Rattenbury, a 25-year-old British Tue–Sat. & 7 8 =
architect who had arrived in ∑ emilycarr.com
British Columbia only the Emily Carr, one of Canada’s best-
year before, won a national known artists (see p215), was
competition to design the born in 1871 in this attractive
buildings. He went on to 1864 clapboard house.
Giant totem poles, a signature feature of design several of the province’s Rooms are furnished in late
Thunderbird Park landmarks, the Empress Hotel 19th-century period style, with
and Crystal Garden included. some original family pieces.
P Parliament Buildings The stone-and-marble Carr taught her first art classes
501 Belleville St. Tel (250) 387-3046. buildings are home to the to local children in the dining
Open 9am–5pm daily. Provincial Legislature. The room, while the sitting room
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. 7 8 Legislative Chamber, where the was where she did her first
Facing the Inner Harbour, assembly sits, is upstairs, off a sketches as an eight-year-
Victoria’s many-domed small gallery that boasts lovely old. Carr’s drawing of her father
Parliament Buildings are an stained-glass windows by William is still on display. Reproductions
impressive sight, particularly Morris. Visitors can view assembly of Emily Carr’s artwork hang
at night when the façades are sessions from the third-floor in the Morning Room; the
illuminated by thousands of public galleries. A magnificent People’s Gallery exhibits works
lights. This has been a tradition dome caps the nearby Lower of contemporary Canadian
artists. The English garden
showcases plants popular
during the Victorian era.
Y Beacon Hill Park
Douglas St & Dallas Rd. Tel (250)
361-0600. Open daily. 7
∑ beaconhillpark.ca
In the late 19th century, this
delightful park was being used
for stabling horses. In 1888,
John Blair, a Scottish landscape
gardener, redesigned the
park to include two lakes
The Legislative Chamber at Victoria’s Parliament Buildings and initiated extensive tree
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  255


rotated so that all pieces
in the extensive collection
can eventually be viewed.
+ Craigdarroch Castle
1050 Joan Cres. Tel (250) 592-5323.
Open mid-Jun–Sep: 9am–7pm daily;
Oct–mid-Jun: 10am–4:30pm daily.
Closed major hols. & =
∑ thecastle.ca
Completed in 1890, Craigdarroch
Castle was the pet project of
respected coal miner and
railroad baron Robert Dunsmuir,
who built it to reflect his status
A stately, centuries-old Garry oak tree in as the wealthiest man in British
Beacon Hill Park Columbia. Although not a A tower at Craigdarroch Castle in the French
medieval, fortified castle, the Gothic style
planting. Once a favorite haunt design of this large house was
of artist Emily Carr (see p215), inspired by stately homes in P Government House
this peaceful park, the oldest Scotland and mixes several 1401 Rockland Ave. Tel (250) 387-2080.
and largest in Victoria, is now architectural styles, including Open daily (gardens only). Cary Castle
renowned for its lofty old trees Gothic, Scottish Baronial, and Mews: May–Sep: Tue–Sat (check
(including the rare Garry oaks); Romanesque Revival. website for times). 7 ∑ ltgov.bc.ca
stretches of wild camas lilies, When the castle was The present Government House
once highly valued by the area’s threatened with demolition building was completed in 1959
First Nations; picturesque duck in 1959, a group of local citizens after fire destroyed the 1903
ponds; children’s petting zoo; successfully battled for its structure, designed by Francis
and a cricket pitch. restoration. Today, the interior Rattenbury and Samuel
is a museum that offers an Maclure. The official residence
E Art Gallery of insight into the lifestyle of of BC’s lieutenant-governor,
Greater Victoria a wealthy entrepreneur. the house is normally closed
1040 Moss St. Tel (250) 384-4171. The castle is noted for having to the public, but visitors can
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 9pm one of the finest collections of view the stunning public
Thu), noon–5pm Sun & most hols. Art Nouveau lead-glass windows gardens with lawns, ponds, an
Closed Sep 14–May 16: Mon, in North America, and many of English country garden, and
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 = the rooms and hallways retain a Victorian rose garden. Some
∑ aggv.ca
their patterned wood parquet 19th-century wooden buildings
This gallery’s eclectic collection, floors and carved paneling in on the southeast side of the
the largest in BC, is housed in white oak, cedar, and mahogany. estate that form a part of the
an impressive Victorian mansion Every room is filled with opulent Cary Castle Mews are also open,
east of the downtown area. Victorian furnishings from the including the Costume Museum,
Inside, fine wood moldings, late 19th century and decorated Interpretive Centre, and Tea
original fireplaces, and tall in deep greens, pinks, and rusts. House. Marvelous views of the
ceilings provide a stately Several layers of the paint have grounds can be enjoyed from
home for an array of exhibits, been carefully removed from the Pearke’s Peak, a mount formed
including a wide-ranging drawing room ceiling to reveal from the rocky outcrops that
collection of Chinese and the original stenciled and hand- surround the property and
Japanese painting, ceramics, painted decorations beneath. which contain rock gardens.
and pottery. The gallery also
has the only authentic Shinto
shrine in North America.
The collection of contemporary
Canadian paintings includes
those of famous local artist
Emily Carr (see p215). Executed
between the 1900s and 1930s,
Carr’s paintings, with their
haunting evocation of the
stormy Northwest and the lives
of First Nations peoples, are
among the gallery’s most
popular exhibits. Carr’s works,
which include her writings, are Government House, restored in 1959 with blue and pink granite




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The Royal BC Museum
The Royal BC Museum tells the story of British Columbia through its
natural history, geology, and peoples. The museum is regarded as Third Floor
one of the best in Canada for the striking way it presents its exhibits.
The Natural History Gallery on the second floor contains a series of
imaginative dioramas re-creating the sights, sounds, and even smells
of areas such as the Pacific seashore, the ocean, and the rainforest.
An in-depth look at the region’s history, including a reconstruction
of an early 20th-century town, is presented on the third floor. Visitors
can experience the streetlife of the time in a hotel and in a cinema
showing silent films. The superb collection of First Nations art and
cultural objects includes a ceremonial Big House.














19th-Century Chinatown
As part of an 1890 street scene, this Chinese
herbalist’s store displays a variety of herbs used
in traditional Chinese medicine.

. First Peoples Gallery
Made from spruce root in the late
19th century, the artwork on this
Haida hat represents the raven.








First Nations Masks
These Kwakwaka’wakw masks are part of
the ceremonial regalia of Chief Mungo
Martin. They represent a mouse, a
raccoon, a kingfisher, and a wren.



Key to Floorplan
First Peoples Gallery Exterior of the Museum
The museum’s complex
Becoming BC
opened in 1968.
Natural History Gallery Previously the collections
Newcombe Conference Hall were displayed at
several locations in the
IMAX theatre
surrounding buildings.
Temorary exhibitions The grounds also house
Non-exhibition space the BC archives.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5

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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  257

Becoming BC
A variety of streets, stores, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and public buildings are
re-created in this gallery. Practical Information
Here, the Grand Hotel 675 Belleville St. Tel (250) 356-
stands on an early 7226. Open 10am–5pm daily.
wood-cobbled street. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
7 = 8 -
∑ royalbcmuseum.bc.ca
Transport
@ 3, 27, 28, 30.



Second Floor



. Natural History Gallery
A full-size woolly mammoth
and dramatic glacial ice wall
are exhibited in lifelike
dioramas. Other exhibits
re-create coastal forests
since the last ice age, and
predict future climate
change scenarios.










. Coast Seashore Diorama
This diorama features sound,
lighting, live sea creatures
in tidal pools, and taxidermy
animals such as this northern
sea lion.







First Floor



Museum Guide
The main exhibits of the museum are housed
on the second and third floors. The Natural
History Gallery, on the second floor,
reconstructs a range of environments in
displays including a coastal rainforest to
a river delta. The third floor has the First
Main Entrance Peoples and Becoming BC galleries.




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258  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

2 Butchart Gardens 3 Cowichan Region Centre, with a replica logging
camp and steam train rides.
800 Benvenuto Ave, Brentwood Bay, Vancouver Island. n 2896 Drinkwater
Vancouver Island. Tel (250) 652-4422. Rd, Duncan, (250) 746-4636. ( Sat. Nearby, the Quw’utsun’ Cultural
Open 9am daily; closing hrs vary ∑ tourismcowichan.com and Conference Centre shares
by season. & 7 - 0 = the heritage of the Cowichan
∑ butchartgardens.com Cowichan region, on the south- tribes through tours and events.
central coast of Vancouver Island, A short drive from Duncan
These beautiful botanical consists of the Chemainus and is the Raptors Birds of Prey
gardens were established in Cowichan Valleys. Cowichan Centre, where visitors can learn
1904 by Jennie Butchart, in the means “warm land” in the about a variety of birds such as
excavated quarry left behind by dialect of the Cowichan people. hawks, owls, falcons, and eagles.
her husband’s cement company. The main fresh water lake on
The site, home to thousands the island, Lake Cowichan offers E BC Forest Discovery Centre
of rare plants, is arranged into great opportunities for hiking, 2892 Drinkwater Rd, Duncan. Tel (250)
distinct areas, including a formal swimming, canoeing, cycling, 715-1113. Open Apr & May: 10am–4pm
Italian garden, a Japanese whale-watching, and fishing. Thu–Mon; Jun–Aug: 10am–4:30pm
garden, and a lovely rose Duncan, “City of Totems,” has daily; Sep–mid-Oct: 10am–4pm daily.
garden. There are also fountains, around 38 magnificent totem Closed mid-Oct–Mar. & 7 - =
ponds, bronze statues, a boat poles throughout the city. The ∑ bcforestdiscoverycentre.com
tour, and a carousel. In summer, Duncan Farmer’s Market, held E Quw’utsun’ Cultural and
the gardens are illuminated in Market Square every Saturday Conference Centre
and play host to a variety of until 2pm, sells local fruits and 200 Cowichan Way, Duncan. Tel (250)
musical entertainments in the vegetables, and a variety of 746-8119. Open Jun–mid-Sep: 10am–
evening. Fireworks displays are homemade goods. 4:30pm; mid-Sep–May: for groups of
held on Saturday nights in July On the northern outskirts of the 25 only when pre-booked. 7 - =
and August. city lies the BC Forest Discovery ∑ khowutzun.com/qccc

7 Pacific Rim National Park Reserve of Canada

Three distinct areas make up this reserve: Long Beach, the
West Coast Trail, and the Broken Group Islands. Together they
occupy an 80-mile (130-km) strip of Vancouver Island’s west
coast. The park is a world-famous area for whale-watching.
Long Beach offers a range of hiking trails. The most
challenging hike is the 46-mile (75-km) West Coast Trail,
accessible from The Broken Group Islands
May to September. This archipelago of some 100
The Broken Group Tofino islands and islets is popular
with kayakers and scuba divers.
Islands can be
reached by
boat only. Long Beach


Port Albion
Schooner Trail is one The Wickaninnish Ucluelet
of nine scenic and Centre has viewing
easy-to-follow trails platforms for
through the coastal whale-watching. Bamfield
temperate rainforest.
Long Beach
The rugged, windswept
sands of Long Beach
are renowned for their
wild beauty, with
crashing Pacific rollers,
unbeatable surfing
opportunities, rock pools
filled with marine life,
and scattered driftwood.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  259

O Raptors Birds of Prey Centre
1877 Herd Rd, Duncan. 19th-century buildings, including
Tel (250) 746-0372. Open daily. the Nanaimo Court House (31
& ∑ the-raptors.com Front Street), designed in 1895
by Francis Rattenbury. Learn
about the city’s history at the
4 Chemainus Nanaimo Museum. One of the
highlights is the replica coal mine,
Vancouver Island. * 4,000.
n 9796 Willow St, (250) 246-3944. which gives visitors a chance
∑ chemainus.bc.ca to experience what it was like
to work underground. Also part
When the local sawmill closed of the museum is the bastion
in 1983, the picturesque town located on the waterfront, North
of Chemainus transformed itself America’s only freestanding
into a major attraction with the Pleasure craft and fishing boats moored in Hudson Bay Bastion. This wooden
painting of giant murals that Nanaimo Harbour structure, built in 1853, is the
depict the history of the region. town’s most recognizable land-
Local and international artists 5 Nanaimo mark. When open, canon firings
continued the project and, Road map 2 E4. * 86,000. take place here at noon.
today, over 40 murals appear n 2450 Northfield Rd, (250) 751- The opportunity to snorkel
on specially built panels 1556. ∑ tourismnanaimo.com with sea lions also attracts
throughout the town, depicting visitors to Nanaimo throughout
events in the region’s past. Originally the site of five Coast the year.
The Chemainus Theatre Salish villages, Nanaimo was
Festival, another main attraction established as a coal-mining E Nanaimo Museum
100 Museum Way. Tel (250) 753-1821.
in the town, stages world classics, town in the 1850s. Its Old City Open Victoria Day–Labor Day:
musicals, and plays year-round. Quarter contains many 10am–5pm daily; Labor Day–Victoria
Day: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Bastion:
Pioneer Waterfront Plaza, 95 Front St.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Open Victoria Day–Labor Day: daily.
& (donation for the bastion). 7 =
Practical Information 8 by appt. ∑ nanaimomuseum.ca
Hwy 4. Tel (888) 773-8888.
Open daily. 7 limited. 8 Jun–
Sep ∑ pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/ 6 Gulf Islands
pacificrim/index.aspx
Strait of Georgia. n (250) 754-3500.
∑ gulfislandstourism.com
West Coast Trail
Stunning scenery, including Key Their tranquility and natural
moss-draped rainforest, sea Major road beauty draw visitors to the Gulf
stacks, and sea arches, is Islands, where sightings of eagles
typical of this trail. Minor road and turkey vultures are common.
West Coast Trail
Fishing charters and kayak tours
National park boundary provide views of otters, seals,
River and marine birds. The largest
and most populated island,
with about 10,000 residents, is
At the Nitinat Narrows,
a short ferry ride transports Saltspring. In summer, visitors
hikers on the West Coast Trail stroll around pretty Ganges
across this pretty waterway. Village. Galiano has many hiking
trails; Mayne’s tiny century-old
museum recounts this island’s
history as a stopping-off point
for Gold Rush miners and rum-
runners. North and South
Pender Islands are linked by
a wooden bridge. Relics of a
5,000-year-old First Nations
settlement have been found
here. Saturna, the smallest
and most remote of the islands,
hosts a lamb barbecue each
0 kilometers 10
Port Canada Day (see p35). Visitors to
0 miles 10 Renfrew Gabriola can view Snuneymuxw
First Nations petroglyphs.
For keys to symbols see back flap

US_PNW_258-259_Catalog1.indd 259 04/07/16 12:35 pm

260  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

8 Whistler

Mild Pacific weather, reliable snow, and the greatest vertical
rises of any ski resorts in North America make Whistler one
of the most popular winter sports destinations in the world.
Visitors flock to the two side-by-side mountains of Whistler
and Blackcomb, linked by the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, where
activities include dogsledding, snowshoeing, and snow-
mobiling. In summer, hiking, mountain biking, canoeing,
and horseback riding take place around the lakes and at One of a range of restaurant patios
nearby wilderness locations such as Garibaldi Provincial in Whistler Village
Park. Whistler also has four championship golf courses
and is considered one of the top golf destinations in
Canada. In 2010, Whistler co-hosted the Winter Olympic
games with Vancouver.
Blackcomb Mountain
0 meters 800
0 yards 1000













Upper
Village
•
Village North
•
The Rendezvous on Blackcomb Mountain
Snowboarders and skiers relax, refuel, and enjoy spectacular views at
the Rendezvous restaurant and day lodge atop Blackcomb Mountain.





KEY
1 Blackcomb Mountain is 7,494-ft-
(2,284-m-) high and has more than
100 marked trails and seven alpine
bowls, two of which are glaciers.
Its longest run covers a 7-mile
(11-km) stretch.
2 Whistler Mountain is 7,160-ft-
(2,182-m-) high and has more
than 100 trails, and nine alpine . Fairmont Chateau Whistler
bowls, one of which is a glacier. The Fairmont Chateau Whistler (see p291) is as much a
Its skiable terrain covers 7.4 sq miles tourist attraction as it is a hotel, with its art-filled lobby,
(19 sq km). luxurious tapestries and chandeliers, and rooftop
garden terrace.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  261


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map 2 B4. * 10,000.
n Tourism Whistler, 4230
Gateway Drive, Whistler, (604)
935-3357 or (888) 869-2777
(in Canada & US). 8 0 - =
∑ whistler.com
Transport
@ £
Mountain biker in Whistler Bike Park



Overlord Glacier Whistler Mountain J








J








Upper
Village

Village North
•



Alta Lake








. Alta Lake
Visitors come to this
1-mile- (1.6-km-) long
lake – surrounded by
forested mountains and
80 ft (24.5 m) at its . Whistler Village
deepest point – to swim, A tranquil pond proves a restful spot
kayak, sailboard, and fish amid the bustle of Whistler Village,
for rainbow and Dolly where hotels, restaurants, bars,
Varden trout. A hiking trail and shops line the cobblestoned,
encircles the lake. pedestrianized streets.
For keys to symbols see back flap


US_PNW_260-261_Whistler.indd 261 04/07/16 12:40 pm

262  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

9 Kamloops Kelowna’s lakefront parks
and sandy beaches add to
Road map 2 B4. * 87,000. n 1290
W Trans-Canada Hwy, (250) 372-8000. the enjoyment of fresh-fare
∑ tourismkamloops.com restaurants. Okanagan Lake,
and trails for hiking, biking,
Kamloops – which means and horseback riding,
“where the rivers meet” in the offer recreational activities.
language of the Secwepemc, In winter, the powder snow
or Shuswap, people – is situated here makes Big White Ski
at the confluence of the North Resort (tel 250/765-3101)
and South Thompson Rivers. a major draw for skiers.
Nestled amid mountains and
lakes, the city offers hiking, P Father Pandosy Mission
biking, skiing, and golfing. Mission Hill Family Estate Winery in 3685 Benvoulin Rd. Tel (250) 860-8369.
European settlement began West Kelowna Open Grounds: dawn–dusk daily;
here in 1812, with fur traders Buildings: Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm daily.
doing business with the Sec- 0 Kelowna & donation.
wepemc. Remains of a 2,000- Road map 2 B4. * 120,000.
year-old village and re-created n 544 Harvey Ave, (250) 861-1515.
pit houses at the Secwepemc ∑ tourismkelowna.com
Museum and Heritage Park
reflect the tribe’s history. Kelowna lies on the eastern
US train robber Bill Miner shore of 84-mile- (135-km-)
arrived in Kamloops in 1904, long Okanagan Lake. The
on the run after committing Okanagan Valley’s warm,
a robbery. Kamloops and dry climate has long attracted Ripe peaches from the orchards of
trains have been linked fruit growers, including Summerland, Okanagan Valley
ever since. It’s possible Father Charles Pandosy,
to take a trip along the a French lay priest who q Summerland
Kamloops Heritage arrived in 1859. Pandosy
Railway, on the 1912 planted the area’s Road map 2 B4. * 11,000.
n 15600 Hwy 97, (250) 494-2686.
Steam Locomotive first fruit trees at the ∑ tourismsummerland.com
No. 2141, one of the few Immaculate Con ception
remaining steam engines, Mission, the first non- Summerland has been
when operational. If not, Native settlement in the synonymous with peaches since
a train ride can also region. Today, the founder John Moore Robinson
be taken at British Okanagan Valley wine Father Pandosy arrived in 1902 and persuaded
Columbia Wildlife Park, Mission is a heritage farmers to turn to fruit growing.
home to threatened animals. site. Kelowna’s peaches, apples, Today, it is also home to some
and cherries are plentiful, world-renowned wineries.
E Secwepemc Museum and but its grapes make it the The beautiful Summerland
Heritage Park center of the largest and oldest Ornamental Gardens overlook
200–355 Yellowhead Hwy. Tel (250) wine-producing region in Okanagan Lake and Trout Creek
828-9749. Open 8am–4pm daily. the province. Many of the Canyon, with a viewpoint atop
Closed Sep–May: Sat & Sun. & 8 Okanagan Valley’s wineries Giant’s Head Mountain.
7 = ∑ secwepemcmuseum.com are within a 30-minute drive of Kettle Valley Railway, now a
O British Columbia Wildlife Park Kelowna. Wineries range from tourist attraction, operated here
Hwy 1, 10.5 miles (17 km) E of intimate to expansive; tours from 1915 to 1964. A 1924 Shay
Kamloops. Tel (250) 573-3242. highlight grape-growing and steam engine pulls two 1950
Open 9:30am–5pm daily (to 9pm harvesting methods. Orchard coaches and two open-air cars
Jul & Aug; to 4pm Nov–Apr). & 7 tours may include wagon rides across the 240-ft- (73-m-) high
= - ∑ bczoo.org and visits to petting zoos. Trout Creek Bridge.
Y Summerland Ornamental
Gardens
4200 Hwy 97 S. Tel (250) 494-6385.
Open 8am–sunset daily. & by
donation. 7 = ∑ summerland
ornamentalgardens.org
£ Kettle Valley Railway
18404 Bathville Rd. Tel (877) 494-
8424. Open mid-May–mid-Oct:
10:30am & 1:30pm (days vary). &
Vineyard in the Okanagan Valley sloping down to Okanagan Lake 7 = ∑ kettlevalleyrail.org
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  263


w Okanagan Valley Tour Tips for Drivers

The Okanagan Valley is actually a series of valleys, Tour length: 110 miles (176 km).
linked by a string of lakes, that stretches for 155 miles Starting points: On Highway 97
from Vernon in the north,
(250 km) – from Osoyoos in the south to Sicamous Osoyoos in the south.
in the north. The main towns here are connected When to go: Blossom and fruit
by Highway 97, which passes through the desert festivals are held in spring and
landscape near Lake Osoyoos, and on to the lush summer, when roadside stalls
offer a cornucopia of fruit. Wine
green orchards and vineyards for which the valley tours are available year-round.
is most noted. Mild winters and hot summers have
made the Okanagan Valley one of Canada’s
favorite vacation destinations.
Kamloops 5 Vernon
Surrounded by
farms and orchards,
Vernon owes its
lush look to the
expansion of
irrigation in 1908.

Lake
Country
Monashee
4 Kelowna Mountains
The largest city in the Okanagan,
Kelowna lies on the shores
of Okanagan Lake between
Penticton and Vernon, and is
the center of the wine- and
fruit-growing industries. Okanagan
Peachland Lake
3 Summerland
This small but charming
lakeside resort town boasts Naramata
several 19th-century
buildings and stunning
views from the top of
Giant’s Head Mountain.
Lake
Scaha
6 Historic O’Keefe Ranch
2 Penticton Founded by the O’Keefe family
This sunny lakeside in 1867, this historic ranch
town is known for the displays original artifacts
long Okanagan Beach, Okanagan belonging to the family that
windsurfing, and local Vancouver Falls lived here until 1977. The
winery tours, as well original log cabin remains, as
as for its Peach Festival, does the church and store.
held every August. Nelson
0 km 25
0 miles 25
US Border
1 Osoyoos
Visitors are drawn here
by hot summers, the warm Key
waters and sandy beaches
of Lake Osoyoos, and the Tour route
nearby pocket desert. Other road

For keys to symbols see back flap


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264  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

e The Kootenays

The Kootenays, named for the local Ktunaxa (Kutenai) First
Nations tribe, is one of British Columbia’s prettiest regions.
Alpine-style towns are tucked amid the Columbia and
Rocky Mountains in this southeast corner of the province.
The area’s three districts – East Kootenay, Central Kootenay,
and Kootenay-Boundary – are geographically isolated from
major urban centers, resulting in a slow pace that has
encouraged the development of a healthy community Ainsworth Hot Springs
of artisans and writers. Snowcapped peaks and glacial The temperature of these waters,
lakes can be accessed within a series of parks, which can be enjoyed in outdoor
pools overlooking the mountains
where the plentiful powdery snow makes as well as in shallow natural pools
for excellent skiing. Throughout in the nearby caves, averages
the area, world-famous natural 95°F (35°C).
hot springs well up; they can
be enjoyed at several resorts. Kaslo
Glacier-fed Kootenay Lake,
90 miles (145 km) long,
is famed for its superb
fishing opportunities.

Kootenay Bay
Balfour
Purcell
Mountains
Moyie Lake
Boswell Provincial
Park
Kootenay
Lake
Penticton

Salmo

Yahk
Creston
















. Nelson
Castlegar With its heritage buildings, and large community
Located at the confluence of the Kootenay and of artists, Nelson is a lovely town in which to stroll.
Columbia Rivers, Castlegar features a reconstructed It is also a good base for hiking, skiing, and other
Doukhobor village. outdoor activities.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  265


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Highway 3. Road Map 2 C4.
n 225 Hall St, Nelson, (250)
352-3433. n 2279 Cranbrook
St N, Cranbrook, (250) 426-5914.
n 102 Hwy 3, Fernie, (250)
423-6868. Open all three offices:
year-round: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri;
Victoria Day–Labor Day: 10am–
5pm Sat also.
∑ th.gov.bc.ca
. Fernie ∑ hellobc.com
This scenic town lies in one of the Kootenays’ most popular areas
for snow sports. In the 1880s, Fernie was reputedly cursed by an Transport
~ Cranbrook & Castlegar. g BC
Indian chief when he was betrayed by its founder. In 1964, the
curse was officially lifted by a peace-pipe-smoking ceremony. Ministry of Highways inland ferry
service Kootenay Bay-Balfour,
year-round, 6:30am–10:20pm
daily; 35 mins; (250) 229-4215.




Kimberley
Fort Steele
Mount Fisher

Moyie Lake
Provincial
Park
The Kootenay Bay–Balfour ferry, offering magnificent
views of surrounding mountains from its decks
Moyie
Lake
CROWSNEST HIGHWAY



Yahk















. Cranbrook
Panoramic views can be enjoyed just
Key 0 kilometers 25 a short hike from this town, which
Major road 0 miles 15 lies between the Rocky and Purcell
Mountains. This land, where the
Minor road
Ktunaxa once camped, has excellent
cross-country ski and hiking trails.
For keys to symbols see back flap


US_PNW_264-265_Kootenays.indd 265 04/07/16 12:40 pm

266  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

Exploring the Kootenays

Rushing rivers, deep lakes, and historic towns nestle among
the sheer mountains of the Kootenays, a region at the southern
end of the Canadian Rockies in the southeast corner of British
Columbia. The Kootenays offer a wide range of outdoor
activities, including heli-skiing, rock climbing, river rafting,
and fly-fishing. Its horse ranches, ski lodges, and chartered
houseboats offer visitors comfortable accommodation and
opportunities for active and memorable vacations.
Cranbrook
Nelson’s pink-brick and marble City Hall,
Road map 2 C4. * 19,000. ~ @
n 2279 Cranbrook St N, (250) 426- dating from 1902
5914. ∑ cranbrookchamber.com
Nelson
Cranbook, lying between the Road map 2 C4. * 10,500. @
Purcell and Rocky Mountain n 225 Hall St, (250) 352-3433.
ranges, is the largest town in ∑ discovernelson.com
southeast BC. A major transport-
ation hub, it is within easy reach One of the most attractive
of spectacular scenery and towns in southeastern British
boasts the highest density of Columbia, Nelson overlooks
grizzlies in the Rockies. These, Kootenay Lake. Established
along with the region’s other in the 1880s as a mining town,
Downhill skier on one of Fernie’s wildlife, which includes elk, Nelson flourished with the
spectacular ski runs wolves, and cougars, may be arrival of the railroad in the
spotted on the many trails in 1890s, becoming a center for
Fernie the area. Hikers should exercise the transportation of ore and
caution (see pp312–13). timber. Many of the town’s
Road map 2 C4. * 5,000. @
n 102 Hwy 3, (250) 423-6868. The Canadian Pacific Railway public buildings and houses
∑ tourismfernie.com reached Cranbrook in 1898. were constructed between
The Cranbrook History Centre 1895 and 1920. In 1979, a
Fernie is an attractive, tree-lined includes the magnificent Royal $3 million municipal renovation
town set amid the pointed Alexandra Hall Café with its program helped restore the
peaks of Crowsnest Pass. high decorative curved ceilings, historic façades of the
The town owes its handsome and 17 restored luxury cars, downtown buildings.
appearance to a fire that razed including the 1929 Trans- The town has a thriving
it in 1908. All buildings Canada Limited. cultural scene, with bookstores,
constructed since are brick art galleries, cafés, and craft
and stone. Among several E Cranbrook History Centre shops. Visitors can enjoy the
historic buildings, the 1911 57 Van Horne St S. Tel (250) 489-3918. short ride on Car 23, a 1906
courthouse stands out as BC’s Open mid-May–Aug: 10am–5pm streetcar that operated here
only chateau-style courthouse. daily; Sep–mid-May: 10am–5pm from 1925 to 1949. Restored
Fernie boasts the best powder Tue–Sat. & 7 partial. 8 = in 1992, it now travels along
snow in the Rockies; the ski ∑ trainsdeluxe.com Nelson’s delightful waterfront.
season runs from December to
April. The Fernie Alpine Resort
lifts can transport 12,300 skiers
up the mountain every hour.
During the summer months,
magnificent mountain scenery
can be enjoyed from a variety of
hiking and mountain biking trails
in Mount Fernie Provincial Park.
The Fernie Alpine Resort also
offers scenic chairlift rides, a tree-
top Aerial Park, zip lines, as well
as lift accessed mountain biking.
Guided fly-fishing and river rafting
tours on the Elk River provide
access to pristine wilderness. The opulent dining car on a restored train at the Cranbrook History Centre
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


US_PNW_266_267_Expl_Kootens.indd 266 04/07/16 12:40 pm

BRITISH C OL UMBIA  267


Exploring Nelson largest mercantile building in Castlegar
Nelson’s downtown, though Nelson. The turret and window Road map 2 C4. * 8,000. ~ @
hilly, is easily walkable. Over 350 arches are noteworthy. n 1995 6th Ave, (250) 365-6313.
historic buildings, from elegant ∑ castlegar.com
mansions to elaborate commercial P Houston Block
structures, give the city its unique 601–607 Baker St. 7 Located at the confluence of
style. Many of these restored Nelson’s first mayor, John the Kootenay and Columbia
buildings are part of Nelson’s Houston, commissioned Rivers, Castlegar is an angler’s
historic downtown walk ing architect A. E. Hodgins paradise. In the early 1900s,
tour. The visitors’ center provides to design the grand Doukhobors (Russian
maps and guides for the tour. Houston Block, built in religious dissen ters)
1899, to house a bank. fleeing persecution
P Bank of Montreal began arriving here. The
298 Baker St. Closed bank & major E Touchstones Nelson Doukhobor Discovery
hols. 7 502 Vernon St. Tel (250) 352- Centre showcases the
When it opened in 1900, after 9813. Open 10am–5pm daily (to group’s culture with
a year under construction, 8pm Thu, to 4pm Sun). 8 7 displays of traditional
the Bank of Montreal was Spokane pink brick and clothes, and tools in a
considered one of the finest Kaslo marble make for re-created village. Set in
commercial buildings in the a picturesque mixture lovely grounds with river
BC Interior. Its Italian influences of textures and patterns views and accessed via a
include rounded window arches on the 1902 Post Office Statue of Tolstoy, 470-ft- (143-m-) long
and detailed brickwork. and Customs House, Doukhobor Village suspension bridge,
now a museum of art Zuckerberg Island
P Mara-Barnard Block and history. Heritage Park features a Lake
421–431 Baker St. 7 Salish pit house and Russian
This elaborate High Victorian P Nelson Court House Orthodox chapel.
building, with unusual bay 320 Ward St. Tel (250) 354-6165.
windows on the second floor, Open year-round: 8:30am–4:30pm E Doukhobor Discovery Centre
housed the first branch of the Mon–Fri. Closed major hols. 8 7 112 Heritage Way. Tel (250) 365-5327.
Royal Bank of Canada to open F. M. Rattenbury, designer of Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily.
in BC, in 1897. Victoria’s Parliament Buildings & 7 ∑ doukhobor-museum.org
(see p254), designed this fine E Zuckerberg Island
P K.W.C. Block example of Beaux Arts chateau Heritage Park
488–498 Baker St. 7 architecture. Dating from 1909, 901 7th Ave. Tel (250) 365-6440.
Built by three merchants, Kirk- it features a high pitched roof, Open Park: year-round; Chapel: May–
patrick, Wilson, and Clements, towers, conical caps, gables, Sep, call for hours. & by donation.
in 1901, the K.W.C. Block was the and paired windows. 8 =
Bus station
200 m (220 yd)
Nelson City Center
3A
1 Bank of Montreal
2 Mara-Barnard Block F R ONT ST REE T
3 K.W.C. Block
4 Houston Block H A LL S T RE ET
5 Touchstones Nelson L AKE ST R E ET V E RN O N S TRE ET
6 Nelson Court House CE D AR S T REET
Touchstones
Nelson Court Nelson
House Houston Block
VE R N ON ST R EET WA R D S T R EET V ICT OR IA ST RE E T HE ND RYX ST R EE T
Mara-Barnard
K. W. C.
Block
B A KE R S TR E ET
Block
H AL L S T R EET
SI LI CA S TR EE T
Bank of HE RR IDG E L AN E
Montreal J OS EP HI N E S TR E ET
C A RBO NAT E ST R EET
FALLS ST
STA NL E Y S T R E ET
6 KO OT EN AY S TR EET
0 meters 200
0 yards 200
For keys to map symbols see back flap

US_PNW_266_267_Expl_Kootens.indd 267 04/07/16 12:40 pm

268  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION


Today, there are more than
60 reconstructed or restored
buildings, staffed by guides in
period costume, including the
general store, livery stable, and
North West Mounted Police
officers’ quarters, where
personal items such as family
photographs, swords, and
uniforms create the illusion of
recent occupation. Demonstra-
19th-century barber’s shop in Fort Steele tions of traditional crafts such as
Heritage Town ice-cream-making and quilting
are also held here. “Living history”
r Fort Steele dramas and musical comedy
Heritage Town shows staged in the Wild Horse The Purcell Mountains, noted for remote
Theater are inspired by the town’s rivers and forests
Road map 2 C4. Tel (250) 426-7352. history, and tours at the nearby
Open May, Jun & Sep–mid-Oct: Wild Horse Creek Historic Site It is named after Earl Grey,
9:30am– 5pm daily; Jul & Aug: include a chance to pan for gold. Canada’s Governor General from
9:30am–6pm daily; mid-Oct–Apr: 1904 to 1911, who chose the
10am–4pm daily. & 7 =
∑ fortsteele.ca t The Purcell Purcell range as the place to
build a vacation cabin for his
Fort Steele is a re-creation of Mountains family, in 1912. The trail he
the mining supply town that Road map 2 C4. n 270 Kimberley traveled followed an established
was established at this site Ave, Kimberley, (250) 427-0491. route used by the Kinbasket
in 1864, when gold was dis- Natives of the Ktunaxa First
covered at Wild Horse Creek. The rugged and beautiful Nations tribe. Today, the trail is
Thousands of prospectors and Purcell Mountains face the notoriously dangerous; bears,
entrepreneurs arrived by the Rockies across the broad avalanches, and fallen trees are
Dewdney Trail, which linked Columbia River Valley. The just some of the hazards hikers
the town of region is one of may encounter along the
Hope to the the most remote way. Hiking here requires skill
gold fields. in the Rockies and experience and therefore
Originally and attracts should not be attempted by
called hikers and novice hikers.
Galbraith’s An historic dentist’s sign in Fort Steele skiers from
Ferry, the town Heritage Town around the y Radium Hot
was renamed globe. A high
after Samuel Steele, the North range of granite spires, called Springs
West Mounted Police super- the Bugaboos, also draws Road map 2 C4. * 800.
inten dent who arrived in 1887 mountain climbers. In the north Tel (250) 347-9331.
to restore peace between the of the Purcell range, the Purcell ∑ radiumhotsprings.com
warring Ktunaxa First Nations Wilderness Conservancy – one
tribe and European settlers. of the range’s few accessible The town of Radium Hot Springs
The town enjoyed a brief boom areas – covers a vast 500,900 is famous for its mineral springs
with the discovery of lead and acres (202,709 ha). and is a good base for exploring
silver, but the mainline railroad From the nearby town of nearby Kootenay National Park.
was routed through Cranbrook Invermere, it is possible to In summer, flowerpots decorate
instead, and by the early 1900s access the Earl Grey Pass Trail, motels along the highway
Fort Steele was a ghost town. which extends 35 miles (56 km). through town, and the town
has more visitors than residents.
Many of the 1.2 million annual
tourists come to bathe in the
healing waters of the springs.
The nearby Columbia Valley
Wetlands provide an important
habitat for over 250 migratory
waterfowl, such as Canada
geese, great blue herons, and
tundra swans. Fed by glacial
waters, the Columbia River
meanders through these
Fort Steele’s Wasa Hotel, modeled on a popular 1904 East Kootenay resort extensive marshlands.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  269


park’s many glaciers, including
the Great Glacier, now known
as the Illecillewaet Glacier.
Glacier National Park contains
rainforests, glacial lakes, streams,
and waterfalls. During winter,
snow falls almost daily, totalling
as much as 75 ft (23 m) per
season. The threat of avalanches
in the park is serious; skiers and
climbers are always encouraged
to obtain information about
travel conditions before visiting.
The Rogers Pass line was
eventually abandoned by
the Canadian Pacific Railway
The dramatic peaks of the Rocky Mountains in Kootenay National Park because of the frequent
avalanches, and a tunnel was
u Kootenay form a natural gateway across built underneath it instead. The
National Park the highway. Farther north, the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy 1)
magical Paint Pots, ocher and follows the route of the original
Road map 2 C4. n 7556 Main St E, red pools formed from iron-rich rail line as it bisects the park
Radium Hot Springs, (250) 347-9331. mineral springs, are reached by en route to the lovely city of
Open daily. Visitors’ center: Open late a short trail from the road. Revelstoke. From here, visitors
May–mid-Oct: 9am–5pm daily (late may access the ancient forests
closing during Jul & Aug). & 7 8
∑ pc.gc.ca/kootenay i Glacier National and jagged peaks of Mount
Revelstoke National Park.
Kootenay National Park covers Park
543 sq miles (1,406 sq km) of Road map 2 C4. n Rogers Pass,
the most diverse terrain in the (250) 837-7500. Open daily. & 7
Rockies. Much of this scenery 8 ∑ pc.gc.ca
can be seen from the Kootenay
Parkway (Highway 93 South), Glacier National Park covers
which cuts through the park from 520 sq miles (1,350 sq km) of
north to south following the wilderness in the Selkirk Range
Vermilion and Kootenay Rivers. of the Columbia Mountains.
Most of the park’s attractions can The park was established in
be seen from the many short 1886, and its growth was
trails that lead from the highway. linked to the expansion of
The road winds eastward the railroad, which was routed
through Sinclair Pass, where the through Rogers Pass in 1885.
high red walls of Sinclair Canyon, Today, one of the park’s most
a limestone gorge, lead to the accessible trails follows an
Sinclair Falls and the Redwall abandoned railroad line.
Fault. Here, rust-colored cliffs Other trails here offer visitors Illecillewaet Glacier, one of 420 glaciers
spectacular views of the in Glacier National Park
Hot Springs Havens
The geology of the Canadian Rockies has created numerous hot
springs, formed naturally by groundwater seeping downward,
coming into contact with hot rock 2–2.5
miles (3–4 km) below the earth’s crust,
and rising back to the surface at
a very high temperature. The
region’s many hot springs
resorts offer hot pools in
the 100°F (38°C) range, as
well as larger warm pools
for swimming. The waters
are rich in sulfates, calcium,
and hydrogen sulfide and
are said to benefit arthritis Roadside sign welcoming visitors to Radium
The ocher-colored Paint Pot pools in and rheumatism sufferers. Hot Springs
Kootenay National Park




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270  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

o Yoho National Park

Inspired by the beauty of the area’s mountains, lakes, waterfalls,
and distinctive rock formations, this park was named Yoho
for the Cree word meaning “awe and wonder.” Yoho National
Park lies on the western side of the Rockies range in British
Columbia, northwest of Kootenay National Park. The park
is ideal for climbing, hiking, canoeing, and cross-country Wapta Icefield
skiing. It is also home to the Burgess Shale fossil
beds, an extraordinary find of perfectly preserved
marine creatures from the Cambrian period, over
500 million years ago. Access to the beds is by
guided hike, limited to 12 people each trip.




Emerald Lake
Emerald Lake Lodge
provides facilities at
this secluded spot
in the middle of
the park. The lake,
named for the
intense color of its
waters, is a popular
place for canoeing
and walking.
Field
•








Natural Bridge
Found in the center of the park,
over the waters of Kicking Horse
River, Natural Bridge is a rock
bridge formed by centuries
of erosion, which have worn
a channel through solid rock. Hanbury Glacier
The bridge is a short drive
from Highway 1.
Vancouver,
Glacier
National Park



KEY
1 The Yoho Valley is noted for
its stunning scenery, which includes Hoodoo Creek
the Takakkaw Falls. Erosion created these
2 Burgess Shale was declared mushroom-like towers
a UN World Heritage Site in order to of rock. A very steep
protect two fossil beds. Guided hikes 1-mile (1.5-km) ascent
here are by reservation only. should be tackled only
by fit hikers.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  271


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Highway 1. Road Map 2 C4.
n Park Info Centre, Field. Tel (250)
343-6783. Open daily, check
website for times. 7 0 - =
 ∑ pc.gc.ca/yoho
Transport
@ to Field.

Takakkaw Falls
Takakkaw means “it is wonderful”
in the language of the local First
Nations people, and these, with a
drop of 833 ft (254 m), are among
the most impressive falls in Canada.
The falls can be accessed along the
Yoho Valley Road.

Yoho River
Calgary, Banff
National Park




Field
•



Kicking Horse River
This wild river rushes through Yoho
alongside the original 1880s railroad.
Today the tracks carry freight and the
Rocky Mountaineer® tourist train (see p324).





Hanbury Glacier










0 kilometers 3
0 miles 3
Key Lake O’Hara
Shadowed by the majestic peaks of Mounts Victoria and Lefroy,
Highway
Lake O’Hara is astonishingly beautiful. Visitors wishing to use
Major road the area’s excellent hiking trails must book in advance, as access
River is limited in order to protect this fragile environment.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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the original fort, within the
Fort George Park. It contains
a small collection of artifacts
from First Nations cultures,
European pioneers, and early
settlers of the region.
An important center for the
lumber industry, the town of
Prince George offers a range
of free tours of local pulp mills,
which take visitors through the
process of wood production,
from vast fields of young
seedlings to hill-sized piles
of planks and raw timber.
E Exploration Place
Helmcken Falls, crowned by a rainbow, in Wells Gray Provincial Park 333 Becott Pl. Tel (250) 562-1612.
p Wells Gray a Prince George Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Dec 25 & 26. & - = 7
Provincial Park ∑ theexplorationplace.com
Road map 2 B3. * 72,000.
Road map 2 B4. n 416 Eden Rd, n 1300 First Ave, (250) 562-3700.
Clearwater, (250) 674-2646. Open call ∑ tourismpg.com
for hours. ∑ wellsgray.ca
The traditional home of the
Wells Gray Provincial Park, in the Lheidli T’enneh and Carrier
Cariboo Mountains, is not only Sekani First Nations people,
one of the largest but also and the largest town in
one of the most beautiful northern British Columbia,
wildernesses in British Columbia, Prince George is a bustling Dinosaur models on display at
offering wonders comparable supply-and-transportation Exploration Place
to the Rockies in eastern BC. center for the region. Two
The park, established in 1939, major highways pass through
is distinguished by alpine here: the Yellowhead (Highway s Dawson Creek
meadows, thundering waterfalls, 16) and Highway 97, which Road map 2 B3. * 11,000.
and glacier-topped peaks that becomes the Alaska Highway n 900 Alaska Ave, (250) 782-9595.
rise as high as 8,450 ft (2,575 m). at Dawson Creek. Established ∑ tourismdawsoncreek.com
The Canadian National Railroad in 1807 as Fort George, a fur-
and Highway 5 follow the trading post at the confluence The formerly quiet town of
Thompson River along the of the Nechako and Fraser Dawson Creek was transformed
park’s western edge, and both Rivers, the town is well placed by the construction of the
routes provide stunning views. for exploring the province. Alaska Highway, which began
From the Clearwater Valley Prince George has all in 1942 and swelled the town’s
Road, off Highway 5, there are the facilities of a larger city, population from 600 to 10,000.
several trails, from easy walks including its own symphony Designated as historic Mile
to arduous overnight hikes in orchestra, several art galleries, Zero on the road to Fairbanks,
remote country. A short trail and a university specializing in 1,486 miles (2,391 km) to the
leads to spectacular 450-ft First Nations, north, the city recognizes
(137-m) Helmcken Falls, the forestry, and
fourth-highest waterfall in environmental
Canada. Nearby Mushbowl studies.
Bridge provides the best view Exploration
of the fast-moving Murtle River Place lies on
and the giant holes it has carved the site of
into the surrounding rock.
In late August and early
September, Chinook salmon
leap in futile attempts to
continue upstream past
the dramatic Bailey’s Chute.
Four lakes located through-
out the park provide excellent
opportunities for canoeing
and angling. Former grain elevator turned art gallery in Dawson Creek
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  273


this distinction with the Mile moose, deer, elk, and black bears
Zero post at 10th Street and abound. During the 1942 con-
102nd Avenue. Located at the struction of the Alaska Highway,
corner of Highway 97 and the the town’s population increased
Alaska Highway, the red-and- dramatically, from 800 to 6,000.
white 1931 Northern Alberta When completed, the highway
Railway Station is turned Fort St. John into a busy
now a museum and supply center catering to visitors
information center. to the area and supporting the
The site includes the agriculture industry in the
Mile Zero stone cairn surrounding countryside.
marking the official The town boomed in the
start of the Alaska 1950s, when oil was found
Highway. Next to the here in what proved to be
railway station is a 1948 the largest oil field in BC.
grain elevator annex The city’s pride in its The steaming waters of the Liard River
that is now an art gallery. industrial heritage is Hot Springs, near Fort Nelson
The conversion of elevator reflected in its museum,
to gallery involved the which has a 140-ft- (43-m-) Fur trading was the main activity
removal of 10 tons of grain high oil derrick at its entrance until the energy boom; even
dust. Shows include the and exhibits telling today trappers continue to
work of local artists as the story of the local hunt beaver, wolf, and lynx, for
well as major traveling oil industry. Other both their fur and their meat.
collections. On Saturday The Mile Zero post activities include This town at Mile 300 of the
mornings from May at Dawson Creek cross-country Alaska Highway has an air
to October, a farmers’ skiing at Beatton and bus service, a hospital, and
market held across from the Provincial Park in the winter. good visitor facilities such as
stone cairn sells local produce Another popular seasonal motels, restaurants, and gas
and crafts. activity is watching the northern stations. Local people are
At Walter Wright Pioneer lights, very visible here. known for their friendliness,
Village, restored buildings and and during the busy summer
farm machinery recreate the months they run a program of
agricultural community of f Fort Nelson free talks for visitors, describing
Dawson Creek before the Road map 2 B2. * 3,900. life in the North.
highway was built. n 5319 50th Ave S, (250) 774-2956. The small Fort Nelson
∑ tourismnorthernrockies.ca Heritage Museum displays
P Walter Wright Pioneer Village photographs and artifacts that
1901 Alaska Hwy. Tel (250) 782- Despite the growth of the oil, tell the story of the building of
7144. Open mid-May–Aug: 9am– gas, and lumber industries the Alaska Highway, and features
8pm daily. Closed Sep–mid-May. in the 1960s and 1970s, Fort a frontier-town general store
& donation. 7 ∑ mile0park.ca Nelson retains the atmosphere and blacksmith’s forge. The
of a northern frontier town. trapper’s log cabin behind the
Before the building of the museum is also worth visiting.
d Fort St. John Alaska Highway in the 1940s, The region has over a dozen
Fort Nelson was an important parks, including Liard River
Road map 2 B2. * 19,000.
n 9324 96 St, (250) 785-3033. stop en route to Yukon and Provincial Park; its hot springs
∑ fortstjohn.ca Alaska, and until the 1950s are open year-round. The area
it was without telephones, is a world-class cross-country
The city of Fort St. John is running water, or electricity. skiing destination.
located at Mile 47 of the Alaska
Highway, among the rolling hills
of the Peace River Valley. Fort
St. John, originally one of six
forts built in the area between
1794 and 1925, is the oldest
non-Native settlement in British
Columbia. At nearby Charlie
Lake Cave, 10,000-year-old
artifacts of the Paleo Indians
have been found, making it
the site of the earliest-known
human activity in the province.
The area around Fort St. John
is a unique ecosystem in which Farmland alongside the Peace River near Fort St. John




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274  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

























The green waters of Muncho Lake framed by mountains in Muncho Lake Provincial Park
g Muncho Lake explore its 341 sq miles (883 Anglican Church, and the
Provincial Park sq km) of wilderness. The deep Hazelton Pioneer Museum
waters of Muncho Lake offer a
and Archives in the library,
Road map 2 A1. Tel (250) 776-7000. good supply of trout for anglers. which portrays the early days
Open May–Oct: daily. & to campsites. Narrated boat tours of the lake of the initial settlement.
∑ env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/ are offered by Double G Service The highlight of the area is
parkpgs/muncho_lk/ (tel 250/776-3411). the ‘Ksan Historical Village,
a replica of a Northwest Coast-
One of three provincial parks style Gitxsan village. Gitxsan First
that were established after the h The Hazeltons Nations people have lived in
building of the Alaska Highway Road map 2 A3. * 7,000. n 3026 the area for thousands of years,
in 1942, Muncho Lake occupies Bowser St, New Hazelton, (250) 842- particularly along the beautiful
the most scenic section of the 6571. ∑ newhazelton.ca Skeena River valley. Their way
road. The park encompasses of life was threatened by white
the bare peaks of the northern In the 1860s, pioneer commu- settlers who arrived in the 1850s
Rockies, whose stark limestone nities were established at the at Prince Rupert to work their
slopes incorporate the faults, confluence of the Skeena and way upriver to mine or farm, but
alluvial fans, and fantastic rock Bulkley Rivers, 180 miles (290 km) the tribe has been recovering
formations that are a testament east of Prince Rupert. Today, its traditions since the 1950s.
to thousands of years of glacial three villages at this location – Noted for their skill in creating
erosion. Flash floods are Old, New, and South Hazelton – carved and painted masks,
common here. are known coll e c tively as the totems, and canoes, Gitxsan
The highway skirts the eastern Hazeltons. The towns, named for elders are now schooling new
shoreline of the 7.5-mile- (12-km-) the hazel bushes covering the
long Muncho Lake before cross- region’s river-carved terraces, lie
ing the Liard River, where the near the cliffs of Mount Rocher
Mackenzie Mountains begin. In Déboulé, which tower over
early summer, passing motorists the area at 3,300 ft (1,005 m).
are likely to see moose grazing All the Hazeltons are charming,
in wildflower meadows. The particularly Old Hazelton
park’s bogs are popular with (officially known as Hazelton
botanists eager to see the rare Village), where the old-fashioned
yellow Lady’s Slipper orchid. The storefronts offer a reminder of
roadside also attracts great num- the days when the town was a
bers of goats, sheep, and caribou, bustling river terminus. The Old
which are drawn by deposits of Hazelton walking tour shows off
sodium, known as mineral licks. remnants of a Victorian steam
Visitors may stay in the park engine from early forestry days,
at one of its many campgrounds Skeena River paddlewheelers, ‘Ksan totem poles at the ‘Ksan
(May–Sep) or lodges in order to the century-old St. Peter’s Historical Village
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  275


generations in these skills at the and rafters on the challenging
’Ksan village. Within the village Bulkley River twist past pine-
complex are seven traditional lined shores through a beautiful
longhouses, containing a carving canyon. A bicycle ride or
school, totems, and a museum. hike along the forested 8-mile
A 70-mile (113-km) self- (13-km) Perimeter Trail may offer
guided driving tour winds sightings of moose, deer, and
through several First Nations grouse, while grizzly and black
villages, where one can see bears, mountain goats, and
dozens of totem poles. Indeed, caribou live higher on the
the Hazeltons are known as slopes. In winter, downhill,
the “totem pole capital of the cross-country, and telemark A gift shop and gallery in Cow Bay,
world.” The area also abounds skiing are predominant. Hudson Prince Rupert
with recreational opportunities, Bay Mountain resort (tel 250/
including hiking and fishing. 847-2058) features 37 runs is linked to the growth of the
and 1,750 ft (533 m) of vertical railroad. Housed in the 1914
E Hazelton Pioneer Museum thrills. Snowmobiling and Grand Trunk Railroad Station,
and Archives dogsledding are also popular. the Kwinitsa Station Railway
4255 Government St, Hazelton. Smithers’ main street has an Museum tells the story of
Tel (250) 842-5961. alpine theme, evident in the brick businessman Charles Hay’s
E ‘Ksan Historical Village sidewalks, alpine-style storefronts, big plans for the town, which
High Level Rd, Hazelton. and Alpenhorn Man, a 7-ft (2-m) were largely unfulfilled: he went
n New Hazelton, (250) 842-5544. wooden statue of a man playing down with the Titanic in 1912.
Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; an alpenhorn. Colorful murals Tsimshian First Nations
Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. decorate the street, enhancing people were the area’s first
& 7 8 - = ∑ ksan.org its shops and boutiques. occupants; in the mid-19th
century, the harbor was lined
with their cedar houses and
k Prince Rupert totems. The excellent Museum
of Northern British Columbia
Road map 2 A3. * 13,000.
n 100 1st Ave W, (250) 624-5637. focuses on Tsimshian history;
∑ visitprincerupert.com tours showcase the culture
over the past 10,000 years.
Prince Rupert is the largest In summer, a First Nations-
urban center on BC’s northern led walking tour of nearby
coast. Located on Kaien Island, Laxspa’aws (Pike Island) provides
at the mouth of the Skeena information on five significant
River, the city is encircled by archaeological and village sites
forests and mountains, and 1,800 years old.
overlooks the fjord-studded
coastline. The harbor, busy with E Museum of Northern
cruise ships, ferries, and fishing British Columbia
boats, is the main access point 100 1st Ave W. Tel (250) 624-3207.
for the rugged Haida Gwaii Open Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily;
A main street in Smithers, against a archipelago and Alaska. Like Oct–May: 9am–5pm Tue–Sat.
backdrop of steep mountains many of BC’s major towns, Closed Dec 25 & 26. & 7 8 =
Prince Rupert’s development ∑ museumofnorthernbc.com
j Smithers
Road map 2 A3. * 6,000.
n 1027 Aldous St, (250) 847-5072.
∑ tourismsmithers.com
The picturesque town of
Smithers, located in the center
of the fertile Bulkley Valley, is
surrounded by the panoramic
scenery of local mountain
ranges over which the snow-
crested 8,599-ft (2,621-m)
Hudson Bay Mountain presides.
Smithers is a year-round
outdoor center where Babine
Lake is recommended for its
plentiful rainbow trout and char, One of the many renovated buildings by Prince Rupert’s harbor




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276  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

l Haida Gwaii (Queen LANGARA
Charlotte Islands) ISLAND

Haida Gwaii, formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Virago Sound
Islands, is an archipelago of about 150 islands, Old
Massett
many with unique ecosystems. For thousands of Jalun River •
years they have been home to the Haida Nation,
a people renowned for their carvings and Naden River
sculptures made of silver, gold, cedar, and
argillite (a black, slate-like stone found only on
these islands). The remote Gwaii Haanas National
Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Sewall Prince Rupert
Heritage Site protects ancient Haida villages •
nestled amid lush cedar and hemlock rainforest, Masset Inlet Naikoon
Provincial
home to distinctive species such as dusky shrews, Port • Park
Clements
ermine, and pine martens. Bald eagles nest along the
coast, and in spring hundreds of migrating humpback GRAHAM ISLAND
whales and, sometimes, gray whales can be seen. Haida
Gwaii offers some of the West Coast’s finest fishing, Yellowhead Highway • Tlell
kayaking, hiking, boating, and whale-watching. Rennell Sound


•




MORESBY
ISLAND


Mount
Moresby
Masset
The oldest fishing community in T’AANU
Haida Gwaii, Masset is popular ISLAND
with both anglers and tourists.
Its Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary, an
intertidal wetland and bird-watcher’s
paradise, is refuge to more than
140 recorded species, including large
flocks of migrating shorebirds. In the
nearby Haida village of Old Massett, and Haida Heritage Site
traditional jewelers, carvers, and
weavers work in home studios.
Conservation Area Reserve
Gwaii Haanas National Marine
Queen Charlotte
This quaint fishing village,
also known simply as
Charlotte, is a good base
from which to explore the
islands and take an eco tour.
Its tiny down town offers
cafés, hotels, and shops that
Key sell a variety of goods
including wood carvings,
Paved road Haida carvings, pottery,
Dirt or four-wheel-drive road paintings, glass work, and
handmade clothing.
Hiking trail
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5

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BRITISH C OL UMBIA  277


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n Gwaii Haanas National Marine
Conservation Area Reserve and
Old
Massett Haida Heritage Site, (250) 559-
• Tow Hill 8818. ∑ pc.gc.ca
Transport
g BC Ferries from Prince Rupert,
(888) 223-3779.
Hecate Strait

Prince Rupert . Naikoon Provincial Park
Naikoon Provincial Park has breathtaking views of
Naikoon Hecate Strait and Dixon Entrance. On clear days, Alaska
Provincial is visible from the north end. Tow Hill, at the park’s north
Park end, is an ancient volcano with a massive basalt cliff.
The Pesuta shipwreck, located on East Beach, can be
accessed by a 3-mile (5-km) hiking trail.

• Tlell . Haida Heritage Centre
Haida Heritage Centre
Prince Rupert celebrates Haida culture,
Yellowhead Highway
past and present.
Skidegate Highlights here include
•
argillite and wood
Sandspit carvings, totems dating
•
to 1878, and Loos Taas,
a 49-ft- (150-m-) long
Skidegate Inlet comprises canoe carved by Haida
the three communities of artist Bill Reid.
Skidegate, Queen Charlotte,
and Sandspit, and is one
of the prime fishing locations
LOUISE ISLAND on the islands. In the spring,
gray whales can sometimes be
Mount seen resting and feeding here.
Moresby K’uuha
Llnagaay
(Skedans)
T’AANU
ISLAND
• Hlk’yah Llnagaay
(Windy Bay)
LYELL
ISLAND
and Haida Heritage Site
Conservation Area Reserve
Gwaii Haanas National Marine
BURNABY
ISLAND


. SGang Gwaay (Ninstints)
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981,
KUNGHIT this Haida village on Anthony Island has
ISLAND more totems standing on their original sites
0 kilometers 20
than any other Haida village. Accessible
0 miles 10 by boat only.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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278  P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION

z Cruise to Alaska

Continuing a tradition that began in 1880, cruise ships ply the
Inside Passage, a protected waterway that runs along the BC
coast to the inlets of Alaska. The waters are calmer than those of
the open Pacific Ocean, so that whales and porpoises are often
sighted. The popular cruises, many of which are combined with
shore excursions, attract over one million passengers a year.

Mount
McKinley The sails of Vancouver’s Canada
Place, starting point for cruises

Wrangell
Mountains
Valdez
J Mount St. Elias
Seward
Cook
Inlet Homer
Hubbard
Glacier
Kodiak











Gulf of
Alaska
5 Prince William Sound
More than 20 active tidewater glaciers are
6 Kenai Fjords National Park to be found at the sound, with its 3,000
In the Seward region, the glacier- miles (4,830 km) of coastline. A horned
carved fjords of Kenai are home to puffin colony lives here year-round and
whales, sea lions, and tufted puffins. up to 5,000 bald eagles summer here.






7 Anchorage
Fabulous views of the
Chugach Mountains
can be enjoyed from
Key
Anchorage, situated
Cruise route on a broad peninsula
Major road in Cook Inlet. The
Alaska Native Heritage
Center here displays
historic tableaux
illustrating the daily
0 kilometers 200 lives of the region’s
0 miles 150 First Nations tribes.
For hotels and restaurants see pp290–91 and pp304–5


US_PNW_278-279_Alaska.indd 278 04/07/16 12:35 pm

BRITISH C OL UMBIA  279


Tips for Drivers
Starting point: Canada Place
and Ballantyne Pier cruise ship
terminals, Vancouver.
Cruise length: to Sitka, 736 miles
(1,184 km); to Skagway, 956 miles
(1,538 km); to Seward,
1,443 miles (2,322 km).
Highlights: views of glaciers,
mountains, and wildlife, as well
4 Skagway as historic and scenic ports of call.
The historic Klondike train, which steams through the cliff-
hugging White Pass, starts in Skagway. The boardwalk and false-
fronted buildings of this city evoke the 19th century.
Whitehorse ALASKA HIGHWAY









Atlin Lake

3 Juneau
Alaska’s capital is also its most beautiful city.
Juneau is the gateway to the impressive
12-mile- (19-km-) long Mendenhall Glacier,
which flows from the Juneau Ice field.



Gulf of
Alaska


Prince Rupert

Haida Gwaii
(Queen Charlotte Islands)
2 Sitka
Sitka is one of Alaska’s
most beautiful seaside
towns, with its colorful
houses and impressive
Bella Bella spruce forests.




1 Ketchikan
19th-century buildings
and boardwalks, Tlingit Vancouver Island Vancouver
clan houses, a totem
collection, and an eagle
population make this
town unforgettable.
For keys to symbols see back flap


US_PNW_278-279_Alaska.indd 279 04/07/16 12:35 pm

US_PNW_280-281_Travellers.indd 280 04/07/2014 17:02
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

Travelers’


needs





Where to Stay 282–291

Where to Eat and Drink 292–305
Shopping in the
Pacific Northwest 306–307

Outdoor Activities 308–313















































US_PNW_280-281_Travellers.indd 281 04/07/2014 17:02

282  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY


The Pacific Northwest offers accommodation unforgettable outdoor experiences. For those
to suit every taste – from historic and boutique who prefer to camp, the numerous state,
city hotels with desirable in-house restaurants, provincial, and national parks throughout the
to simple, modern budget hotels and cozy region offer a choice of campsites, including
bed-and-breakfasts perched on the beach smaller sites for rough camping. In order to
or in wine country. In addition to this range help you select a place to stay, the listings
of options, rustic inns and lodges, usually on pages 286–91 recommend a variety of
located outside towns and cities and accommodations, in all price ranges, each
near scenic areas, give easy access to representing the best of its kind.

Finding Accommodation
of one night’s stay. Generally, during the week, when prices
For accommodation in Oregon, refunds are made for cancel­ often drop considerably. Always
Travel Oregon offers a handy lations if enough notice has inquire about package deals –
online reservation service as been given; however, adminis­ many hotels offer discounts
well as a free publication tration charges may apply. on tours and entrance to
called Where to Stay in Oregon. Notify the hotel if you expect attractions, restaurant and store
Washington State Tourism to arrive later than 5pm or you coupons, as well as free airport
provides lodging and camp­ may lose your reservations. and city shuttle services.
ground listings in its free booklet Increasingly, hotels offer
Experience Washington, which discounts on room rates when
can be ordered by phone or Prices bookings are made over the
downloaded from the Internet. With so many accommodation Internet. Reserving a room with
Tourism BC’s British Columbia options, prices vary tremendously an Internet booking agency
Approved Accommo dation and depend on the season and (see How to Book) can also result
guide, available at no charge at availability. During peak tourist in savings, especially on last­
tourist information centers, rates months (May to September) minute deals. Also, many
more than 800 BC government­ and public holidays, prices are hotels offer discounts to
inspected accommodations and higher in the city and at seaside members of auto clubs, and
campgrounds. Local bed­and­ or lakeside accommodations. often to students and seniors,
breakfast and inn agencies also The best deals at these locations so it is always a good idea to
offer accommodation listings; are to be found in the off­season, inquire about these discounts
check with the local visitors’ October to April. Ski resorts when calling to reserve a room.
center for details. are on an opposite schedule, Watch for hidden costs such
which means that mountain as parking fees and single­
accommodations in mid­ occupancy surcharges.
How to Book summer are readily available Oregon’s hotel tax varies
Reservations are recommended and prices quite affordable. from county to county. Hotel
whatever the season, as festivals, It is best to stay in cities on tax in Seattle is 15.6 percent but
conferences, and other events weekends, when hotels have varies throughout the rest of
(see pp34–7) are held year­ almost no business clientele, Washington. In British Columbia,
round throughout the Pacific and to opt for bed­and­ prices are subject to a 5 percent
North west. Campgrounds are breakfasts outside cities or federal Goods and Services Tax
especially popular during the popular weekend destinations (GST); an 8 percent provincial
summer, as are ski resorts in the
winter. Most major hotels have
toll­free reservation numbers
and accept Internet bookings.
Rooms can also be booked
through online booking agencies,
such as Kayak, Booking,
Priceline, and Expedia.
If you have special
requirements, such as a quiet
room away from ice machines
and elevators, make them
known when you book your
room. Reservations usually
require a credit card number
or a deposit the equivalent Modern art and clean lines abound at the boutique Hotel Lucia (see p286), Portland
A lodge and restaurant at the Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park, British Columbia



US_PNW_282-285_Intro1_Stay.indd 282 04/07/16 12:40 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  283


hotel tax on rooms in properties
with four or more units; and,
in certain municipalities, an
additional tax of up to 2 percent.

Hotels
Hotels in the Pacific Northwest’s
major destinations are counted
among the world’s best.
Luxury chains, such as the
Four Seasons, Fairmont,
Kimpton, and Westin, as well as
numerous independents, are
generally located downtown.
They usually offer stylish decor, The heritage Gatsby Mansion Inn (see p291) in Victoria, BC, now a bed-and-breakfast
an upscale restaurant, a spa,
and valet parking. Reservations breakfasts also serve lunch and restaurant meals, car rentals,
are recommended, especially dinner; inquire when booking. bus travel, airport shuttles, and
if you plan to visit during a Most bed-and-breakfasts prohibit more. Ask about other benefits
holiday or a popular festival smoking, and some also have at HI’s regional offices.
or event (see pp34–7). restrictions on children and pets. A variety of accommodations
If you are looking for The Oregon and the are available, though many are
personalized guest services and Washington Bed and Breakfast dormitory-style with shared
luxurious amenities, consider Guilds provide extensive bathrooms. Some hostels
one of the many boutique information and listings also have communal kitchens.
hotels – small, exclusive, detailing bed-and-breakfasts in Calling ahead to reserve a space
independently owned hotels – these two states. For visitors to is advisable. Several hostels are
usually situated in city centers British Columbia, the British centrally located within the
and resort destinations. All the Columbia Bed and Breakfast metropolitan Seattle and
major hotel chains, including Innkeepers Guild publishes a Portland areas. There are also
Best Western, Holiday Inn, guide to accommodations that hostels, both HI and those
and Marriott, can be found are approved by the agency. Like unaffiliated to HI, throughout
in the larger cities and often bed-and-breakfasts, inns come in Oregon and Washington. In
in smaller towns near popular all shapes and sizes, from small British Columbia, hostels are to
destinations. These chains and rustic to large and luxurious. be found in Vancouver, Whistler,
provide rooms that are not only Visitors to British Columbia Vancouver Island, and at major
affordable but also standardized: may choose to stay at one of destinations in the BC Interior.
no matter where the hotel is the province’s numerous guest Hostel-style accommodation is
located, they offer clean, reliable ranches, which include working also available at the YMCA and
accommodations as well as cattle ranches. These properties YWCA in Vancouver and, in
facilities that typically include offer a variety of activities, such summer, at several universities
a hotel restaurant, swimming as horseback riding and fishing, and colleges, including the
pool, and fitness center. as well as the opportunity to University of British Columbia.
participate in real ranch work. For an online directory of
Visitors can choose from basic hostels, visit www.hostels.com.
Bed-and-Breakfasts cabins, ski lodges, and luxury Motels offer much to travelers
and Inns
ranches featuring fireplaces, who are looking for simplicity
The Pacific Northwest prides room service, air conditioning, and cleanliness. Most are
itself on its many welcoming and hot tubs, and spa facilities. located near busy highways
charming bed-and-breakfasts. Contact the BC Guest Ranchers’ and are a comfortable and
Guest rooms are typically Association for information. inexpensive option as long
located in a large house in which as transportation into the city
the host also resides. Accom- Traveling on a Budget is not an issue. Motels generally
modations range from rooms offer fewer amenities than
in historic Victorian homes with Hostels can be ideal for travelers hotels, although cable TV,
beautiful gardens, situated in on a budget. Hostelling private bathrooms, air
residential city neighborhoods, International (HI) operates in conditioning, and ice and
to rooms in rustic log homes locations throughout the Pacific soda machines are standard.
near the mountains, and Northwest. HI memberships Reservations are usually
everything in between. are available at a nominal fee not necessary. Online agencies
As the name suggests, guests (free for youths 17 years and such as Oregon Coast Motels,
are served breakfast, often younger) and entitle members Booking, and Kayak are good
buffet-style. Some bed-and- to discounts on rooms, sources to find motels.




US_PNW_282-285_Intro1_Stay.indd 283 04/07/16 12:40 pm

284  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Campgrounds moderate disabilities; 3, for
Throughout the Pacific people with advanced agility,
Northwest, park facilities are hearing, mobility, and vision
basic – running water, flush or disabilities and independent
pit toilets, and a tenting area – wheelchair users; and 4, for
although some sites have those with severe disabilities.
showers and running water.
Privately owned tent, trailer, Traveling with Children
and recreational vehicle (RV)
parks offer both simple sites Children are welcome in
with outhouses and full-service most hotels in the Pacific
campgrounds with flush toilets, Northwest. Many hotels and
showers, electricity, and even motels offer family packages,
playgrounds and games rooms. services such as babysitting,
In Oregon and Washington, Geiser Grand Hotel (see p287), a landmark and family rooms. Call ahead
some campgrounds accept of Baker City, Oregon to inquire about special rates
reservations, whereas others and services for families and
are first come, first served. and chain hotels are equipped special accommo dations for
Campsites may be reserved up with the necessary facilities, young children, such as cots,
to a year in advance for certain including visual notification of for which there is often a
weekends and holidays, such the fire alarm and of incoming nominal fee of $10 to $15. It
as July 4. Reservations for phone calls. Many also have is advisable to inquire about
Oregon and Washington suites designated specifically for a bed-and-breakfast’s policy
campsites can be made by people with disabilities. However, on accommodating children
contacting Oregon State Parks many of the older buildings and before booking a room.
or Washington State Parks, bed-and-breakfasts in the Pacific
or online at Reserve America. Northwest have narrow hallways
Camp grounds at British that can obstruct wheelchairs Business Travelers
Columbia’s provincial and and that are without ramps. Larger hotels often maintain
national parks fill up quickly. As always, it is best to check in full-service business centers,
Check the BC Parks website advance. In the US, the Society which provide secretarial and
to determine which parks take for Accessible Travel and courier services as well as
reservations, and reserve with Hospitality (see p319) provides Internet facilities. They may
Discover Camping by phone travel tips and information also have conference rooms
or online. about wheelchair access. that can be reserved in advance.
Many BC properties participate If you plan to stay at an older
in the Access Canada program, property and wish to do
Travelers with which seeks to make traveling business from there, make sure
Disabilities easier for seniors and people it has the facilities you require.
Hotels and motels in both the US with disabilities. Look for the
and Canada are required by law Access Canada logo, which uses
to be wheelchair accessible, with a numbered system from 1 to 4: Where to Stay
in Portland
the exception of some in older 1 indicates accommodation
buildings. The reality, however, suitable for active seniors and Most of the major hotel chains
is that this is not always the case. people with minor disabilities; are represented in downtown
The vast majority of large private 2, for seniors and people with Portland, providing good
bases for visitors who want to
feel the pulse of the city and
visit its museums and cultural
attractions. Downtown hotels
are also in close proximity to
some of Portland’s most vibrant
neighborhoods, such as the
Pearl District. Most of the city’s
bed-and-breakfasts are located
a bit farther afield.

Where to Stay
in Seattle
Seattle’s downtown is relatively
small and many sights can be
easily reached on foot, making
The luxurious Fairmont Chateau Whistler (see p291), BC the area an ideal base for




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WHERE T O ST A Y  285


travelers. Accommodations
in or near Pike Place Market are
convenient for all the major
shops and many rooms have
stunning views of Elliott Bay
and Puget Sound. Most of the
major hotels are clustered
together and are within walking
distance of many of the city’s
best bars and restaurants.
Pioneer Square and Belltown,
two neighborhoods flanking
downtown, on the south and
north respectively, offer more
affordable accommodations.
Still central, though just outside
the downtown area, Capitol Plush furnishings complement the views at the Edgewater Hotel (see p288), Seattle
Hill and Queen Anne Hill offer
comfortable accommodations Recommended Hotels consider a cozy, atmospheric
in neighborhood surroundings. The lodging options featured inn or bed-and-breakfast. There
in this guide have been are budget options across most
selected across a wide categories that can help to
Where to Stay price range for their excellent keep vacation costs down. If
in Vancouver
facilities, good location, and traveling with a family, consider
The majority of Vancouver’s value. From rustic, family- the region’s world-class resorts,
hotel options are clustered in owned inns and relaxing several of which include skiing
the city’s downtown shopping coastal resorts to stylishly and activity packages.
and business districts, although modern boutique hotels, For the best of the best,
there are also several big-name accommodations run the look out for listings in this
chain hotels located near the gamut across all price levels guide labeled as DK Choice.
airport. Bed-and-breakfasts and environments. Luxury These establishments have
are generally also located options abound, offering the been highlighted in recognition
downtown, but visitors who Pacific Northwest’s very best of an exceptional feature – be
prefer a quieter atmosphere in service and amenities. Style- it a stunning location, notable
will find homely bed-and- conscious, trendy types feel history, or inviting atmosphere.
breakfasts in residential most at home in the region’s The majority of these are
neighborhoods such as numerous hip boutique hotels. exceptionally popular, so
Kitsilano or Shaughnessy. For a more intimate experience, be sure to book in advance.
DIRECTORY
Finding Priceline Traveling on Oregon State Parks
Accommodation ∑ priceline.com a Budget Tel (800) 452-5687.
∑ oregonstate
Tourism BC Bed-and- Hostelling parks.org
Tel (800) 435-5622. Breakfasts International Reserve America
∑ hellobc.com and Inns Canada ∑ reserveamerica.com
Tel (604) 684-7101.
Travel Oregon BC Guest ∑ hihostels.ca Washington
Tel (800) 547-7842. Ranchers’ Association Hostelling State Parks
∑ traveloregon.com Tel (877) 278-2922. International USA Tel (888) 226-7688.
∑ bcguestranches.com ∑ parks.wa.gov
Washington ∑ hiusa.org
State Tourism British Columbia Bed Hostels.com
and Breakfast
∑ experiencewa.com Innkeepers Guild ∑ hostels.com
How to Book ∑ bcsbestbnbs.com Oregon Coast Motels
∑ oregoncoastmotels.
Oregon Bed and net
Booking Breakfast Guild
∑ booking.com Tel (800) 944-6196. Campgrounds
∑ obbg.org
Expedia BC Parks
∑ expedia.com Washington Bed and ∑ env.gov.bc.ca
Breakfast Guild
Kayak Tel (800) 647-2918. Discover Camping
∑ kayak.com ∑ wbbg.com ∑ discovercamping.ca



US_PNW_282-285_Intro1_Stay.indd 285 04/07/16 12:40 pm

286  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Hotel Vintage Plaza $$ Price Guide
Portland Luxury Map 1 C4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
422 SW Broadway, 97205 high season for a standard double room,
Old Town and the Tel (503) 228-1212 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Pearl District ∑ vintageplaza.com $ up to $150
The rooms here are named after $$ $150 to 275
The Mark Spencer Hotel $$ Oregon wineries; suites have $$$ over $275
Boutique Map 1 B5 floor-to-wall windows with city
409 SW 11th Ave, 97205 views. Complimentary wine Lion and the Rose Victorian
Tel (503) 224-3293 reception nightly. Bed & Breakfast $$
∑ markspencer.com Historic Road Map 1 A3
Most rooms in this eco-friendly, Sentinel $$ 1810 NE 15th Ave, 97212
stylish hotel are equipped with Historic Map 1 B5 Tel (503) 287-9245
kitchenettes. Complimentary 614 SW 11th Ave, 97205 ∑ lionrose.com
afternoon tea, evening wine Tel (503) 224-3400 Located in the leafy, historic
reception, and packages for art ∑ sentinelhotel.com Irvington area, this majestic
events all enhance the stay. A 1909 hotel that features historic 1906 Queen Anne-style mansion
murals. Some of the elegantly has rooms with private baths.
Downtown furnished rooms offer fireplaces McMenamins Kennedy School $$
and balconies.
McMenamins Crystal Hotel $ Inn/B&B Map 2 F1
Boutique Map 1 B5 Farther Afield 5736 NE 33rd Ave, 97211
303 SW 12th Ave, 97205 Tel (503) 249-3983
Tel (503) 972-2670 ∑ mcmenamins.com
∑ mcmenamins.com DK Choice Once an elementary school, now
This music-themed hotel was a B&B, this place features a movie
decorated in honor of the neigh- Ace Hotel $$ theater and whimsically decorated
boring Crystal Ballroom. The Boutique Map 2 D5 rooms, furnished with chalkboards.
establishment also has a funky 1022 SW Stark St, 97205
café and a soaking pool. Tel (503) 228-2277
∑ acehotel.com/portland
The Benson $$ In a city full of trendy options, Oregon
Historic Map 1 C4 this is one of the funkiest hotels.
309 SW Broadway, 97205 After a complete overhaul, the ASHLAND: Ashland
Tel (503) 228-2000 former Clyde Hotel has a mix Springs Hotel $
∑ coasthotels.com of original 1912 details and Historic Road Map 1 A5
A stately hotel built in 1912, The stylishly modern, eco-friendly 212 E Main St, 97520
Benson is filled with marble and features. Each guestroom is Tel (541) 488-1700
polished Russian walnut details. one of a kind. Guests enjoy free ∑ ashlandspringshotel.com
Classically furnished rooms. bicycle rentals. Pet friendly. This nine-story landmark dates
back to 1925. It has a gorgeous
Heathman Hotel $$ lobby and the rooms have fine
Luxury Map 1 C4 Inn at Northrup Station $$ French fabrics.
1001 SW Broadway, 97205 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A3
Tel (503) 241-4100 2025 NW Northrup St, 97209 ASTORIA: Hotel Elliott $$
∑ heathmanhotel.com Tel (503) 224-0543 Boutique Road Map 1 A3
This charming 1927 institution ∑ northrupstation.com 357 12th St, 97103
is a magnet for visiting musicians Built in the 1970s and later Tel (503) 325-2222, (888) 434-7374
and writers. Old World charm, city transformed by architect Steve ∑ hotelelliott.com
views, and works by local artists. Routon, this offbeat, psychedel- Many of the original 1924 details
ically colored destination has have been retained at this centrally
Hotel Lucia $$ suites with full kitchens. There located hotel. The luxurious rooms
Boutique Map 1 C4 is also a rooftop deck. feature 440-count cotton sheets.
400 SW Broadway, 97205
Tel (503) 225-1717
∑ hotellucia.com
A stylish establishment, Hotel Lucia
houses acclaimed artwork. It offers
a pillow menu, luxurious beds,
and pampering bath products.
Hotel Monaco $$
Boutique Map 1 C5
506 SW Washington St, 97204
Tel (503) 222-0001
∑ monaco-portland.com
This 1912 architectural gem boasts
a large contemporary art collec-
tion and plush, colorful decor
inspired by Anglo-Chinois style. Funky decor at Ace Hotel, Portland

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WHERE T O ST A Y  287

BAKER CITY: Geiser
Grand Hotel $$ DK Choice
Luxury Road Map 1 C3 MOUNT HOOD:
1996 Main St, 97814 Timberline Lodge $$
Tel (541) 523-1889 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B3
∑ geisergrand.com 27500 E Timberline Rd, 97028
This restored 1889 landmark Tel (800) 547-1406
features mahogany mill-work and ∑ timberlinelodge.com
a huge stained-glass skylight This historic lodge, famous from
above the highly rated restaurant’s the exterior shots in the film
dining room. The Shining, was built in the
1930s. The lobby’s huge stone
BEND: Seventh fireplace is an attraction in itself.
Mountain Resort $$ The skiing packages and award-
Resort Road Map 1 B4 winning dining also lure visitors.
18575 SW Century Dr, 97702
Tel (541) 382-8711 Impressive lobby at Sunriver Resort,
∑ seventhmountain.com Sunriver NEWPORT: Sylvia Beach Hotel $$
Simple bedroom units as well Boutique Road Map 1 A3
as fully equipped suites are IMNAHA: Imnaha River Inn $ 267 NW Cliff St, 97365
available here. A good base for Inn/B&B Road Map 1 C3 Tel (888) 795-8422
skiers, rafters, and anglers. 73946 Rimrock Rd, 97842 ∑ sylviabeachhotel.com
Tel (541) 577-6002 A delightfully quirky hotel housed
CANNON BEACH: ∑ imnahariverinn.com in an old Craftsman-style building.
Stephanie Inn $$$ This charming inn offers easy It has ocean-facing rooms.
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A3 access to hiking, hunting, fishing,
2740 S Pacific St, 97110 biking, and rafting areas. Rustic SALEM: Grand Hotel $
Tel (503) 436-2221 rooms; shared bathrooms. Luxury Road Map 1 A3
∑ stephanieinn.com 201 Liberty St, 97301
The rooms at this romantic JACKSONVILLE: Country Tel (503) 540-7800
beach front inn have fireplaces House Inns $ ∑ grandhotelsalem.com
and whirlpool tubs. No children Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A4 This hotel has comfortable rooms
under 12. 830 N 5th St, 97530 and spacious suites, along with a
Tel (800) 367-1942 restaurant, wine bar, and gym.
CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK: ∑ countryhouseinns.com
Crater Lake Lodge $$ The cottages, rooms, and suites STEAMBOAT: Steamboat Inn $$$
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B4 are set in homes dating to the Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A4
565 Rim Village Dr, 97604 1860s. Wine-tasting packages 42705 N Umpqua Hwy, 97447
Tel (800) 774-2728 are also offered. Tel (541) 498-2230
∑ craterlakelodges.com ∑ thesteamboatinn.com
Set on the rim of Crater Lake, this LINCOLN CITY: The Coho A complex of suites, cabins, and
grand 1915 lodge has stunning Oceanfront Lodge $$ cottages are set on a remote
views. The elegant rooms have a Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A3 stretch of river. Ideal for fly-fishing.
rustic charm. Open late May to Oct. 1635 NW Harbor Ave, 97367
Tel (541) 994-3684 SUNRIVER: Sunriver Resort $$
EUGENE: Excelsior Inn $$ ∑ thecoholodge.com Resort Road Map 1 A4
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A4 Take in the breathtaking views 17600 Center Dr, 97707
754 E 13th Ave, 97401 of the ocean at this aesthetically Tel (800) 801-8765
Tel (541) 342-6963 pleasing lodge, which also offers ∑ sunriver-resort.com
∑ excelsiorinn.com spa services, an indoor heated This resort has lodge suites and
The rooms at the Excelsior pool, and concierge service. private condos. Golf courses,
have hardwood floors, arched restaurants, biking trails, and pools.
windows, and marble baths. MCMINNVILLE: McMenamins
Hotel Oregon $ TROUTDALE: McMenamins
GLENEDEN BEACH: Salishan Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A3 Edgefield $
Spa & Golf Resort $$ 310 NE Evans St, 97128 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B3
Resort Road Map 1 A3 Tel (503) 472-8427 2126 SW Halsey St, 97060
7760 N Hwy 101, 97388 ∑ mcmenamins.com Tel (503) 669-8610
Tel (541) 764-2371 This hotel has a variety of ∑ mcmenamins.com
∑ salishan.com comfortable rooms, some with This 1911 property includes a
This sprawling complex is nestled private baths. The rooftop bar winery, brewery, distillery,
in a wooded area near Siletz Bay. offers stunning views. theater, pool, and more.
Golf course and trails for hiking.
MCMINNVILLE: Youngberg Hill WALLOWA LAKE: Wallowa
HOOD RIVER: Hood River Hotel $ Vineyards and Inn $$$ Lake Lodge $$
Historic Road Map 1 B3 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A3 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 C3
102 Oak St, 97031 10660 SW Youngberg Hill Rd, 97128 60060 Wallowa Lake Hwy, 97846
Tel (541) 386-1900 Tel (503) 472-2727 Tel (541) 432-9821
∑ hoodriverhotel.com ∑ youngberghill.com ∑ wallowalake.com
Enjoy gorgeous views of the Set on a hill, this craftsman-style Built in 1923, this lodge has rooms
Columbia River from this charming inn overlooks rolling vineyards. with lake views; cabins feature fire-
1913 hotel. The cozy lobby is a The luxurious rooms feature gas places and kitchens. Look out for
lovely place to relax in. fireplaces and Jacuzzis. black tail deer on the lawns.
For more information on types of hotels see pp283–5
US_PNW_286_291_hotel_listings.indd 287 04/07/16 12:35 pm

288  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WARM SPRINGS: Kah-Nee-Tah Pike Place Market Ace Hotel $$
Resort and Casino $ and the Waterfront Boutique Map 1 C5
Resort Road Map 1 B3 2423 1st Ave, 98121
6823 Hwy 8, 97761 Alexis Hotel $$ Tel (206) 448-4721
Tel (800)-554-4786 Boutique Map 3 C2 ∑ acehotel.com
∑ kahneetah.com 1007 1st Ave, 98104 The arty rooms at Ace Hotel have
This modern lodge on a desert- Tel (206) 624-4844 high ceilings and low platform
based Indian reservation, ∑ alexishotel.com beds with army-surplus blankets.
overlooks the Warm Springs The rooms and public spaces at
River. Spa and casino. Alexis Hotel showcase works by Hotel Max $$
local artists. Luxurious decor and Boutique Map 2 E5
celebrated service. 620 Stewart St, 98101
Tel (866) 986-8087
Seattle ∑ hotelmaxseattle.com
DK Choice A 1920s-era relic that is known
Pioneer Square The Edgewater Hotel $$ for contemporary Northwest art
and Downtown Luxury Map 3 C2 and Miller’s Guild restaurant, with
2411 Alaskan Way, 98121 its entirely wood-fired menu.
Fairmont Olympic Hotel $$ Tel (206) 728-7000
Luxury Map 4 D1 ∑ edgewaterhotel.com Farther Afield
411 University St, 98101 Get stunning views of Puget
Tel (206) 621-1700 Sound and the Olympic Moun- Ballard Hotel $$
∑ fairmont.com/seattle tains from the eco-friendly rooms Boutique Road Map 1 A2
This hotel is modeled on an Italian of this waterfront hotel. The 5216 Ballard Ave NW, 98107
Renaissance palazzo, with marble interior feels like a plush lodge: Tel (206) 789-5012
and plush carpets. all rooms feature knotty-pine ∑ hotelballardseattle.com
furniture, river-rock fireplaces, Ballard’s first boutique hotel has
Grand Hyatt Seattle $$ and impressive bath amenities. luxurious rooms and a superb
Luxury Map 4 D1 Top-notch restaurant. Pet friendly. restaurant. Guests have access
721 Pine St, 98101 to the Olympic Athletic Club.
Tel (206) 774-1234
∑ grandseattle.hyatt.com Inn at the Market $$ Sorrento Hotel $$$
A sleek and stylish hotel designed Luxury Map 3 C1 Boutique Map 4 D1
to appeal to high-tech profession- 86 Pine St, 98101 900 Madison St, 98104
als. Ultramodern amenities. Tel (206) 443-3600 Tel (206) 622-6400
∑ innatthemarket.com ∑ hotelsorrento.com
Mayflower Park Hotel $$ Set in a landscaped courtyard, the Rooms at this elegant hotel have
Boutique Map 3 C1 floor-to-ceiling windows here offer marble bathrooms and great
405 Olive Way, 98101 spectacular views of Elliott Bay. views. Exceptional service.
Tel (206) 623-8700
∑ mayflowerpark.com
This well-located 1927 property is Seattle Center
one of the city’s last independently and Belltown Washington
owned classic hotels.
Hotel Five $ BELLINGHAM: Chrysalis
Palladian Hotel $$ Boutique Map 2 D2 Inn & Spa $$
Boutique Map 1 B4 2200 5th Ave, 98121 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A1
2000 2nd Ave, 98121 Tel (206) 441-9785 804 10th St, 98225
Tel (206) 448-1111 ∑ hotelfiveseattle.com Tel (888) 808-0005
∑ palladianhotel.com These eco-friendly lodgings ∑ thechrysalisinn.com
A short walk from Pike Place feature hardwood floors and This hotel has a warm decor, a
Market, this hip hotel has a seafood urban industrial art. Free bike full-service spa and a romantic
restaurant, cocktail bar, and com- rentals. Dog friendly. Mediterranean-style wine bar.
plimentary afternoon wine hour.
Inn at Queen Anne $ CHELAN: Campbell’s Resort $$
Inn/B&B Map 1 B5 Resort Road Map 1 B2
505 1st Ave N, 98109 104 W Woodin Ave, 98816
Tel (206) 282-7357 Tel (509) 682-2561
∑ innatqueenanne.com ∑ campbellsresort.com
A converted 1928 apartment A prime beachfront location, this
building, this inn comprises simply resort features a spa, outdoor
decorated rooms with kitchens. heated pool, and bar.
MarQueen Hotel $ DEER HARBOR: Inn on
Boutique Map 1 B3 Orcas Island $$
600 Queen Anne Ave N, 98109 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A1
Tel (206) 282-7407 114 Channel Rd, 98243
∑ marqueen.com Tel (360) 376-5227
The hotel’s quaint, tasteful rooms ∑ theinnonorcasisland.com
have kitchens, hardwood floors, In a marsh-side setting close to
and upscale toiletries. The on-site Deer Harbor, the rooms in this
Striking colors and contemporary art at the cocktail bar, The Tin Lizzie Lounge, New England-style structure have
1920s Hotel Max, Seattle is popular. water views. No children or pets.
Key to Price Guide see p286
US_PNW_286_291_hotel_listings.indd 288 04/07/16 12:35 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  289

STEHEKIN: North Cascades
Lodge at Stehekin $$
Resort Road Map 1 B2
1 Stehekin Landing, 98816
Tel (509) 682-4494
∑ lodgeatstehekin.com
Hidden in the North Cascades,
this lodge is accessible by ferry,
float plane, or hiking trail.
Comfortable rooms.
STEVENSON: Skamania Lodge $$
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B3
Country-cottage charm at the Inn at Abeja, Walla Walla 1131 SW Skamania Lodge Way, 98648
Tel (509) 427-7700
FORKS: Kalaloch Lodge $ OLYMPIA: DoubleTree by ∑ skamania.com
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A2 Hilton Hotel Olympia $$ This place is popular with wind-
157151 Hwy. 101, 98331 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A2 surfers, hikers, and mountain
Tel (866) 297-7367 415 Capitol Way, 98501 bikers. A golf course, spa, and
∑ thekalalochlodge.com Tel (360) 570-0555 fine-dining restaurant are just
The lodge and cabins are set ∑ doubletree3.hilton.com some of the luxuries on offer.
on a bluff overlooking the Pacific The suites come with refrigerators
Ocean. The restaurant serves and flat-screen TVs. Complimen- TACOMA: Hotel Murano $$
regional specialties and seafood. tary continental breakfast. Boutique Road Map 1 A2
1320 Broadway Plaza, 98402
FRIDAY HARBOR: Friday QUINAULT: Lake Tel (253) 238-8000
Harbor House $$ Quinault Lodge $$ ∑ hotelmuranotacoma.com
Boutique Road Map 1 A1 Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A2 This hip downtown spot
130 West St, 98250 345 S Shore Rd, 98575 showcases sculptures and
Tel (360) 378-8455 Tel (360) 288-2900 art in public spaces. Modern
∑ fridayharborhouse.com ∑ olympicnationalparks.com rooms, an upscale restaurant,
Rooms at this romantic getaway This grand 1926 lodge sits by the and spa services.
offer water views, fireplaces, and rainforest above the shore of
whirlpool baths. Lake Quinault. Old-style comfort. TACOMA:
Silver Cloud Inn $$
LEAVENWORTH: ROCHE HARBOR: Roche Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A2
Haus Rohrbach Pension $$ Harbor Resort $$ 2317 N Ruston Way, 98402
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B2 Luxury Road Map 1 A1 Tel (253) 272-1300
12882 Ranger Rd, 98826 248 Reuben Memorial Dr, 98250 ∑ silvercloud.com
Tel (509) 548-7024 Tel (360) 378-2155 The stylish rooms here have
∑ hausrohrbach.com ∑ rocheharbor.com microwaves and refrigerators,
Most rooms at this Alpine-style A charming complex with an as well as spectacular bay views.
lodging have private baths and 1886 hotel, deluxe suites, as well
balconies offering valley views. as historic cottages. WALLA WALLA: Marcus
Whitman Hotel $
MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK: SEAVIEW: Shelburne Inn $$ Historic Road Map 1 C3
National Park Inn $$ Inn/B&B Road Map 1 A2 6 W Rose St, 99362
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B2 4415 Pacific Way, 98644 Tel (866) 826-9422
Mount Rainier National Park, 98304 Tel (360) 642-2442 ∑ marcuswhitmanhotel.com
Tel (360) 569-2275 ∑ theshelburneinn.com This 1928 high-rise provides
∑ mtrainierguestservices.com Rooms at this 1896 inn are good accommodations and
Charming rooms, afternoon tea, decorated with antiques; fine dining. The hotel has six
and a communal fireplace are a most have private decks. wine-tasting rooms.
few highlights at this rustic retreat.
SNOQUALMIE: Salish Lodge $$$ DK Choice
MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK: Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B2
Paradise Inn $$ 6501 Railroad Ave, 98065 WALLA WALLA: Inn
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B2 Tel (425) 888-2556 at Abeja $$$
Mount Rainier National Park, 98304 ∑ salishlodge.com Luxury Road Map 1 C3
Tel (360) 569-2270 Set above the Snoqualmie Falls, 2014 Mill Creek Rd, 99362
∑ mtrainierguestservices.com this lodge has whirlpool tubs Tel (509) 522-1234
This lodge has exposed beams and and fireplaces. There are two ∑ abeja.net
decorative woodwork dating to restaurants on-site. This early 20th-century
its 1916 origins. Open May to Oct. farmstead is home to both a
SPOKANE: The Davenport winery and a sophisticated Inn.
NAHCOTTA: Moby Dick Hotel $ Hotel $$ Original cottages, the old
Historic Road Map 1 A2 Historic Road Map 1 C2 carriage house, and a barn all
25814 Sandridge Rd, 98637 10 S Post St, 99201 house immaculate suites with
Tel (360) 665-4543 Tel (509) 455-8888 fine furnishings. Guests are
∑ mobydickhotel.com ∑ thedavenporthotel.com encouraged to explore the
A delightful 1930s hotel set on an This hotel, dating back to 1914, surrounding acres of gardens,
oyster farm. The lobby has a fine has a stunningly ornate lobby and creeks, and vineyards.
collection of books. ballroom. Elegant guest rooms.
For more information on types of hotels see pp283–5
US_PNW_286_291_hotel_listings.indd 289 04/07/16 12:35 pm

290  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WOODINVILLE: Willows Lodge $$$
Luxury Road Map 1 B2
14580 NE 145 St, 98072
Tel (425) 424-3900
∑ willowslodge.com
This riverside resort in western
Washington’s wine country has
award-winning restaurants.
YAKIMA: Birchfield Manor $$
Inn/B&B Road Map 1 B2
2018 Birchfield Rd, 98901
Tel (509) 452-1960
∑ birchfieldmanor.com
A farmhouse with elegant rooms
that are furnished with antiques.
The restaurant serves gourmet
New American fare.
Mid-level views of downtown from Rosewood Hotel Georgia, Vancouver
South Granville Sylvia Hotel $$
Vancouver and Yaletown Boutique Map 1 C1
1154 Gilford St, V6G 2P6
Waterfront, Gastown, Howard Johnson Vancouver Tel (604) 681-9321
and Chinatown Hotel $ ∑ sylviahotel.com
Boutique Map 2 F3 A landmark 1912 brick and
Skwachàys Lodge $ 1176 Granville St, V6Z 1L8 terracotta building near English
Boutique Map 3 B3 Tel (604) 688-8701 Bay. The rooms with kitchens are
31 W Pender, V6B 1R3 ∑ hojovancouver.com perfect for families. The hotel bar
Tel (604) 687-3589 A popular and affordable choice is favored for its old-world charm.
∑ skwachays.com with a central location. There is free
Aboriginal art is displayed through- Wi-Fi and a good hotel-restaurant.
out this Victorian building. Each
room is individually decorated Granville Island Hotel $$ British Columbia
along a specific Aboriginal theme. Boutique Map 2 E5
1253 Johnston St, V6H 3R9 CLEARWATER:
Pan Pacific Vancouver $$ Tel (604) 683-7373 Helmcken Falls Lodge $$
Luxury Map 3 A1 ∑ granvilleislandhotel.com Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B4
999 Canada Pl, V6C 3B5 The rooms here are stylish and 6664 Clearwater Valley Rd, V0E 1N1
Tel (604) 662-8111 spacious, some with wooden Tel (250) 674-3657
∑ panpacific.com beams and Persian rugs. Enjoy ∑ helmckenfalls.com
Pan Pacific Vancouver has beautiful views of the water from The lodge offers accommodations
beautifully appointed rooms with the popular in-house restaurant. at the Wells Gray Provincial Park
marble bathrooms. Lovely views. entrance. Outdoor activities.
DK Choice
CRANBROOK:
Downtown Opus Hotel $$ Kootenay Country Inn $
Fairmont Hotel Vancouver $$ Boutique Map 2 F4 Inn/B&B Road Map 2 C4
Luxury Map 2 F2 322 Davie St, V6B 5Z6 1111 Cranbrook St, V1C 3S4
900 W Georgia St, V6C 2W6 Tel (604) 642-6787 Tel (250) 426-2296
Tel (604) 684-3131 ∑ opushotel.com ∑ kootenaycountryinn.com
∑ fairmont.com A hip hotel exuding opulence A pet-friendly motel, the many
This landmark railroad hotel is and sophistication. The dramat- facilities here include a sauna
famous for its copper roof. Indoor ically structured guest rooms, and laundry.
pool and spa services are available. defined by vibrant design
schemes, have spa bathrooms FERNIE: Griz Inn $
Sutton Place Hotel $$ and striking artwork by local Inn/B&B Road Map 2 C4
Luxury Map 2 F2 artists. Trendy on-site bar and 5369 Ski Hill Rd, V0B 1M6
845 Burrard St, V6Z 2K6 restaurant are popular with the Tel (800) 661-0118
Tel (604) 682-5511 city’s jet set. ∑ grizinn.com
∑ suttonplace.com A ski-in, ski-out location close to
A lavishly appointed property with hiking options. This inn has an out-
plush rooms. Spa, health center, door hot tub. Perfect for families.
and a popular restaurant on-site. Farther Afield
O Canada House $ FORT ST. JOHN: Quality Inn
Rosewood Hotel Georgia $$$ Inn/B&B Map 2 E2 Northern Grand $$
Luxury Map 2 F2 1114 Barclay St, V6E 1H1 Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B2
801 W Georgia St, V6C 1P7 Tel (604) 688-0555 9830 100th Ave, V1J 1Y5
Tel (604) 682-5566 ∑ ocanadahouse.com Tel (250) 787-0521
∑ rosewoodhotels.com This restored 1897 house has a ∑ qualityinnnortherngrand.com
Celebrities frequently opt for this wrap-around porch and a garden. Set in the heart of Fort St. John,
1920s Georgian Revival structure. Try the gourmet breakfast and this is a popular option with com-
Elegant rooms and spa. various home-baked treats. fortable, well-equipped rooms.
Key to Price Guide see p286
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WHERE T O ST A Y  291

GOLDEN: Palliser Lodge $$ spa resort, with log cottages, views of nearby islands from
Resort Road Map 2 C4 ocean-view condos, and studios. this oceanfront property.
1420 Palliser Lodge Trail, V0A 1H0 Spacious rooms.
Tel (250) 344-8650 PENTICTON: Naramata
∑ palliserlodgeresort.com Heritage Inn & Spa $$$ VICTORIA: Gatsby Mansion Inn $
There are studios and condo suites Historic Road Map 2 B4 Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B5
with fireplaces, hot tubs, and fully 3625 1st St, Naramata., V0H 1N0 309 Belleville St, V8V 1X2
equipped kitchens at this lodge. Tel (250) 496-6808 Tel (250) 388-9191
∑ naramatainn.com ∑ huntingdonmanor.com
HARRISON HOT SPRINGS: This elegant 1908 lakeside hotel Stained-glass windows, crystal
Harrison Hot Springs has rooms with modern touches, chandeliers, fireplaces, and
Resort & Spa $ such as heated bathroom floors. frescoed ceilings add to the
Resort Road Map 2 B4 charm of this elegant place.
100 Esplanade Ave, V0M 1K0 PRINCE GEORGE: Esther’s Inn $
Tel (604) 796-2244 Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B3 DK Choice
∑ harrisonresort.com 1151 Commercial Cres, V2M 6W6
A massive mineral springs pool Tel (250) 562-4131 VICTORIA: Fairmont
complex, with outdoor pools. ∑ esthersinn.com Empress $$$
Spa, steam room, and sauna. Esther’s Inn has a indoor tropical Luxury Road Map 2 B5
garden courtyards, hot tubs, and 721 Government St, V8W 1W5
KAMLOOPS: Plaza Hotel $ an indoor pool with a water slide. Tel (250) 384-8111
Boutique Road Map 2 B4 ∑ fairmont.com
405 Victoria St, V2C 2A9 RADIUM HOT SPRINGS: This “grand duchess” of the
Tel (250) 377-8075 Bighorn Meadows Resort $ Fairmont group is famed for its
∑ plazaheritagehotel.com Resort Road Map 2 C4 afternoon tea. Guest rooms are
This heritage-style hotel dates 8100 Golf Course Rd, V0A 1M0 sumptuously appointed in
from the 1920s and has Tel (250) 347-2323 period furnishings; many have
individually decorated rooms. ∑ bighornmeadows.com city views. Superlative spa.
This resort has hotel rooms, condos,
KELOWNA: Manteo Resort $ and villas – some with a BBQ grill.
Resort Road Map 2 B4 Gorgeous views and lots of activ- WHISTLER: Riverside RV Resort $
3762 Lakeshore Rd, V1W 3L4 ities, including golfing and skiing. Resort Road Map 2 B4
Tel (250) 860-1031 8018 Mons Rd, V0N 1B8
∑ manteo.com SMITHERS: Hudson Bay Lodge $ Tel (604) 905-5533
A lakefront resort that has pools, Inn/B&B Road Map 2 A3 ∑ whistlercamping.com
tennis courts, and a movie theater. 3251 E Hwy 16, V0J 2N0 This cluster of cabins and yurts is a
Rent boats from the marina. Tel (250) 847-4581 good alternative to nearby hotels.
∑ hudsonbaylodge.com The log cabins each have a kitchen.
KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK: Set at the base of Hudson Bay,
Kootenay Park Lodge $$ this pleasant lodge has well- WHISTLER: Fairmont
Inn/B&B Road Map 2 C4 appointed rooms. Chateau Whistler $$$
Vermilion Crossing, Hwy 93, T1L 1B3 Luxury Road Map 2 B4
Tel (403) 762-9196 SOOKE: 4599 Chateau Blvd, V0N 1B4
∑ kootenayparklodge.com Sooke Harbour House $$$ Tel (604) 938-8000
These simple log cabins were built Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B5 ∑ fairmont.com
by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd, V0S 1N0 The opulent lobby at this stunning
1923. Close to good hiking trails. Tel (250) 642-3421 hotel has a gold-leaf-domed
Open early May–Sep. ∑ sookeharbourhouse.com ceiling. The rooms and suites are
A country-style inn by the sea, luxurious. Famous golf course.
NANAIMO: Buccaneer Inn $ Sooke Harbour House has a fine-
Inn/B&B Road Map 2 B4 dining restaurant and spa. YOHO NATIONAL PARK:
1577 Stewart Ave, V9S 4E3 Cathedral Mountain Lodge $$$
Tel (250) 753-1246 TOFINO: Wickaninnish Inn $$$ Luxury Road Map 2 C4
∑ buccaneerinn.com Luxury Road Map 2 A4 Yoho Valley Rd, V0A 1G0
Buccaneer Inn has spacious rooms, 500 Osprey Lane, Chesterman Beach, Tel (866) 619-6442
lots of amenities, as well as mani- V0R 2Z0 ∑ cathedralmountain.com
cured grounds with a BBQ area. Tel (250) 725-3100 Surrounded by mountains, these
∑ wickinn.com beautiful log cabins come with
NELSON: Dancing Bear Inn $ Enjoy wonderful panoramic fireplaces and private decks.
Inn/B&B Road Map 2 C4
171 Baker St, V1L 4H1
Tel (877) 352-7573
∑ dancingbearinn.com
A backpacker lodge in a beautifully
restored building. Comfortable
dorms and double rooms.
PARKSVILLE: Tigh-Na-Mara $$
Resort Road Map 2 B4
1155 Resort Dr, V9P 2ES
Tel (250) 248-2072
∑ tigh-na-mara.com
This is British Columbia’s largest Evening view of the Fairmont Empress from Victoria’s waterfront, BC
For more information on types of hotels see pp283–5
US_PNW_286_291_hotel_listings.indd 291 04/07/16 12:35 pm

292  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The Pacific Northwest is known for its large and adding depth to the choices. Visitors
number of coffee bars as well as the vast can often find a terrific French bistro
range of fresh local seafood it has to offer, neighbored by an affordable Thai noodle
from wild salmon to oysters, clams, and crab. house and a mid-range Mediterranean
Portland, Seattle, and Vancouver have all seafood restaurant. Farm-fresh, local flavors
experienced a culinary revolution – small mark the ingenious creations of the region’s
neighborhood, chef-owned restaurants finest restaurants, while numerous less
have popped up on seemingly every expensive eateries boast down-to-earth
block, showcasing a broad array of cuisines fare with the same freshness.

Pacific Northwest Cuisine
making a meal of several types Alcohol is available only in
Increasingly, Pacific Northwest of oysters on the half-shell while licensed establishments. Dining
restaurants offer menus that sipping a local beer at one of in taverns or certain parts of
highlight local produce, of the many oyster bars is a restaurants may be restricted.
which there is a wide variety. popular pastime of locals and Diners who plan to order alcohol
Oregon’s climate is particularly visitors alike. in any establishment should
conducive to growing wild Eating healthily in the region’s always bring a valid form of
mushrooms. Washington is restaurants is easy. Low-fat dishes picture identification, such as a
perhaps best known for its are staples on most menus, as driver’s license or passport, as
apples, though it also grows are vegetarian options, ranging waiting staff are required by law
many types of berries. In British from salads and wraps to to check the age of patrons who
Columbia, tree fruits, including Mongolian grills and Buddhist order alcohol. The legal drinking
apples, pears, peaches, cherries, banquets. Native cuisine, using age in Washington and Oregon
and plums, often feature in local ingredients such is 21; in British Columbia, 19.
its cuisine. Pacific Northwest as seaweed, fern shoots, wild
grapes and wineries are berries, oolichan (a small silvery
celebrated as some of the best fish), and caribou, can also Hours
in the world, so it is no surprise be enjoyed, and is sometimes Coffee shops and cafés serving
that there are many wine bars combined with traditional full breakfasts open at 6 or 7am.
throughout the region. Seafood Native song and dance perform- With one on just about every
is very much the focus of Pacific ances in an authentic setting. downtown street corner, coffee
Northwest cuisine. On just shops are the best bet for a
about every menu and in just Alcohol and Smoking toasted bagel or pastry and
about every type of restaurant, a cup of coffee. Breakfast,
salmon, halibut, crab, mussels, Smoking is banned in all which generally consists of
clams, and oysters are on offer, indoor public places in British some combination of pancakes,
whether in the form of cakes, Columbia. Washington has toast, eggs, omelets, sausages,
chowder, or fish and chips. banned smoking statewide and bacon, is typically served
Smoked salmon, which has in all public places and in until 11am. On Sundays, brunch
its origins in Native customs, is places of employment. In is served between 8am and
ubiquitous. Oysters are gaining Oregon it has similarly been 2pm at many restaurants that
in popularity, and, with so many banned in workplaces, bars, are not open for breakfast
varieties to choose from, and restaurants. during the week.
Lunch hours are usually
between 11:30am and 3pm.
In the cities, many of the
more upscale restaurants
offer lunches that mirror the
dinner menu in every aspect
but price, making the midday
meal a smart choice for travelers
who want to dine at the best
restaurants while on a budget.
Dinner hours generally run
from 5pm to 9 or 10pm, later in
busier areas and on weekends.
Some exclusive restaurants
open for dinner only. Almost all
View over the vines at Old Vines Restaurant, Kelowna, BC (see p304) restaurants are open on Fridays




US_PNW_292-293_Intro1_Eat.indd 292 04/07/16 12:40 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  293


and Saturdays, but it is not
uncommon to encounter clo­
sures on Sundays and Mondays.
Check in advance with each
establishment for specific times.

Reservations
Reservations are needed for
the better or more popular
restaurants and some will only
accept reservations for parties Hastings House hosts genteel dining on Saltspring Island, BC (see p305)
of six or more. However, most
restaurants do not require with appropriate identification. featured in this guide have
reservations. If booking more Personal checks are usually been selected for their value,
than a day in advance, confirm not welcome. good food, atmosphere, and
the booking on the day of At any sit­down restaurant location. From authentic,
your reservation. with a waitperson, it is customary no­frills snack shacks to creative
to tip 15 to 20 percent of the New American gastronomy,
price of the meal. As a general these restaurants run across all
Prices rule, tipping 15 percent is about price levels and cuisine types.
Dinner entrées in Oregon average; a 20 percent tip is Alongside the ubiquitous
and Washington usually cost generally given when service has oyster bars and seafood shanties,
between $9 and $16 at casual been exceptionally good. When many of the Pacific Northwest’s
restaurants; between $17 and paying for the meal with a credit top­rated restaurants focus on
$40 at fine­dining establish­ card, the tip amount can be fresh, local, seasonal ingredients
ments. Taxes on foods and added on the credit card slip. In in all elements of their cooking.
alcoholic beverages in Oregon addition, many restaurants charge International inspiration and
and Washington vary from a mandatory 18 percent gratuity innovative cooking techniques
county to county; in the Seattle for groups of more than six. combine to create a distinctive
area, it is 9.5 percent. In BC, regional cuisine. Attentive diners
dinner entrées range from CAN Dress Codes will note a heavy emphasis on
$12 to $24 at casual spots, from regional wines and local craft
CAN $25 to $40 at the more The Pacific Northwest is, in beers, many of which garner
exclusive restaurants. Restaurant general, a casual place. At most national acclaim. Ethnic restau­
meals are not subject to the 8 city restaurants, business­casual rants – French, Italian, Greek,
percent tax. Lunch costs from is appropriate: khakis and and Indian to mention a few –
CAN $7 to $20, breakfast CAN button­down shirts for men; are thriving and have given rise
$5 to $12. Alcoholic drinks are a sweater or blouse and pants to a fusion cuisine unique to
subject to a tax of 10 percent. or skirt for women. Outside the the West Coast. Lovers of Asian
cities, dress is often more casual, cuisines (particularly Japanese,
and most restaurants do not Chinese, and Thai) are also
Paying and Tipping have dress codes. Usually, the well­served; due to the region’s
Nearly all restaurants accept more exclusive the restaurant, proximity, it has become a haven
major credit cards. Traveler’s the more formal it is. for expats from the Asian conti­
checks in US or Canadian nent. There is usually at least one
currency are normally accepted Thai and Japanese restaurant in
Children
every neighbor hood. Sushi bars
Well­behaved children are here are good as well, since
welcome at most restaurants the fish is so varied and fresh.
and many establishments For the best of the best, look
cater especially to families with out for restaurants labeled as
children. High chairs and booster DK Choice. These establishments
seats are often available, as is a have been highlighted in
special kids’ menu or portions. recognition of an exceptional
feature, such as a celebrity chef,
exquisite food, or an inviting
Recommended atmosphere. The majority of
Restaurants these are exceptionally popular
Culinarily­speaking, among North among local residents and
American regions the Pacific visitors, so be sure to inquire
Northwest is widely considered regarding reservations or you
Meat-lovers’ mecca, Metropolitan Grill to be one of the strongest and may be facing a lengthy wait
steakhouse, Seattle (see p300) most diverse. The restaurants for a table.




US_PNW_292-293_Intro1_Eat.indd 293 04/07/16 12:40 pm

294  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

quiet, stylish dining room. Fruity Price Guide
Portland cocktails, myriad kinds of tea, and Prices are in US$ for a three-course meal
a great selection of white wines. for one, including half a bottle of house
Old Town and the wine, sales tax, and service.
Pearl District Downtown $ $$ up to $45
$45 to $75
Pearl Bakery $ Grassa $ $$$ over $75
Bakery Map 1 C4 Italian Map 1 B4
102 NW 9th Ave, 97209 1205 SW Washington St, 97205 Farther Afield
Tel (503) 827-0910 Tel (503) 241-1133 Apizza Scholls $
A perfect stop for breakfast or Industrial decor and impeccable Pizzeria Road Map 1 A3
lunch on the go, this small pasta dishes at great prices 4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd, 97215
artisanal bakery serves superb make Grassa a top pick. It offers Tel (503) 233-1286
breads. It uses organic Batdorf seasonal salads, antipasti, and This wildly popular spot is
and Bronson coffee and locally cocktails made with locally devoted to classic New York-style
sourced ingredients. sourced inputs. pies made from slow-fermented
dough and cooked at nearly
Clyde Common $$ Departure $$$ 900 degrees. Service can be
New American Map 1 B4 Asian Map 1 C5 brusque, and the place closes
1014 SW Stark St, 97205 525 SW Morrison St, 97204 early if the dough runs out.
Tel (503) 228-3333 Tel (503) 802-5370
Visit this popular tavern for its Enjoy the beautiful view from this Genies Café $
innovative cocktails and small restaurant that gives a modern New American Road Map 1 A3
plates. Try the tagliarini with twist to Northwestern seafood 1101 SE Division St, 97202
clams, chanterelles, and crab and Asian classics. Tuna and black Tel (503) 445-9777
butter, or the scallops and spicy truffle sashimi and Dungeness This breakfast and lunch spot
cantaloupe. Save room for the crab fried rice are highlights. serves seasonal, sustainable
buttermilk blackberry ice cream. cuisine. Specials may include
Higgins Restaurant $$$ a morel scramble or sausage
Grüner $$ New American Map 3 B1 frittata with fiddleheads. Several
German Map 1 B4 1239 SW Broadway, 97205 versions of eggs Benedict and
527 SW 12th Ave, 97205 Tel (503) 222-9070 classic sandwiches available.
Tel (503) 241-7163 Inspired by classic Parisian bistros,
Ultramodern furnishings adorn the this light-filled, multilevel space Hopworks Urban Brewery $
dining room here, while the menu offers a menu featuring inventive New American Road Map 1 A3
retains a distinctly alpine influence. preparations of locally sourced 2944 SE Powell Blvd, 97202
The extensive European wine list produce, meats, and fish. The wine Tel (503) 232-4677
features many German labels. list has a strong Northwest focus. This friendly establishment,
located in a converted tractor
Little Bird Bistro $$ Jake’s Famous Crawfish $$$ showroom, is commited to
French Map 1 C4 Seafood Map 1 B4 being as carbon-neutral as
219 SW 6th Ave, 97204 401 SW 12th Ave, 97205 possible. Mainly organic, local
Tel (503) 688-5952 Tel (503) 226-1419 ingredients are used in both
The casual sister restaurant to Opened in 1892, this fish house their beers and food. Fantastic
the legendary Le Pigeon, Little boasts dozens of varieties of fresh root beer. Don’t miss the pretzels,
Bird is a lovely lunch or dinner fish, that can be steamed, stuffed, black bean corn cakes, and craft-
spot serving expert renditions of seared, sautéed, or simply grilled. beer hummus.
Parisian bistro fare such as crêpes, The polished paneling and
cassoulet, and Gruyère soufflé. old artwork on the walls create Lardo $
a lovely atmosphere. New American Road Map 1 A3
Maurice $$ 1212 SE Hawthorne Bvd, 97214
Nordic-French Map 1 C4 Tel (503) 234-7786
921 SW Oak St, 97205 This food cart turned bricks-
Tel (503) 224-9921 and-mortar restaurant serves
Experience the perfect blend sophisticated interpretations
of Scandinavian and French of classic burgers and sub
flavors at this charming café, with sandwiches. The dirty fries
an extensive vermouth menu. with fried herbs and pork
The desserts are prepared by one belly are a must-try. Craft beers
of the city’s renowned pastry and cocktails.
chefs. Don’t miss the black
pepper cheesecake. Podnah’s Pit Barbecue $
Barbecue Road Map 1 A3
Seres $$ 1625 NE Killingsworth St, 97211
Chinese Map 1 B2 Tel (503) 281-3700
1105 NW Lovejoy St, 97209 Come here for slow-smoked,
Tel (971) 222-7327 Texas-style barbecue beloved
Savor artfully prepared dishes by many. The dining room is
from different provinces, including Traditional Chinese styling and Szechuan decidedly no-frills, but the moist,
peppery Szechuan fare, in a flavors at Seres, Portland tender meats from the oak-fired
US_PNW_294_305_restaurant_listings.indd 294 04/07/16 12:35 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  295

smoker keep the place packed.
Small selection of wines and
microbrews on offer.
Screen Door $
Southern Road Map 1 A3
2337 E Burnside St, 97214
Tel (503) 542-0880
This bright, roomy restaurant
serves an authentic survey of
Southern cuisine made with
ingredients from Oregon farms.
Standouts include buttermilk
fried chicken, pecan-crusted trout
and milk chocolate cream pie.
La Sirenita $
Mexican Road Map 1 A3 A rustic setting to enjoy spicy Thai cuisine at Pok Pok, Portland
2817 NE Alberta St, 97211
Tel (503) 335-8283 Nostrana $$ Ava Gene’s $$$
This good-value eatery serves fast Italian Road Map 1 A3 Italian Road Map 1 A3
food such as tacos and burgers 1401 SE Morrison St, 97214 3377 SE Division St, 97202
to a wide following. Has almost Tel (503) 234-2427 Tel (971) 229-0571
everything on the menu, including The rustic decor at Nostrana This polished Roman trattoria is
hefty, meaty burritos. Also try complements the comfort food in SE Division’s up-and-coming
their authentic menudo (tripe) on the menu. Known for its wood- restaurant row. It specializes in
and birria (lamb) soups. fired pizzas, it also serves excellent rustic pastas, with beautifully
salads and pastas. Book ahead. presented vegetable sides. A
Tasty n Sons $ well-curated, reasonably priced
New American Road Map 1 A3 Olympia Provisions $$ list of Italian wines.
3808 N Williams Ave, 97212 New American Road Map 1 A3
Tel (503) 621-1400 107 SE Washington, 97214 Castagna $$$
Tasty does hearty American fare, Tel (503) 954-3663 New American Road Map 1 A3
such as chicken and dumplings, Pick up home-made salamis and 1752 SE Hawthorne Bvd, 97214
barbecue ribs, and shrimp and local cheese boards from Portland’s Tel (503) 231-7373
grits. It sports communal tables, favorite charcuterie shopping The stunning, artful presentations
with folks lining up around the spot, that also serves refined of contemporary Northwest
block for its weekend brunch. European-style cuisine. The French cuisine feature flora, fauna, wild
saucisson with white beans and mushrooms, game, and more.
Wong’s King Seafood salsa verde is worth trying. Choose between the four-course
Restaurant $ fixed menu or the ten-course tast-
Chinese Road Map 1 A3 DK Choice ing menu. Reservations are a must.
8733 SE Division St, 97266
Tel (503) 788-8883 Pok Pok $$ Langbaan $$$
Authentic, handmade dim sums Thai Road Map 1 A3 Thai Road Map 1 A3
plus an extensive list of Chinese 3226 SE Division St, 97202 6 SE 28th Ave, 97214
standards are available here. A Tel (503) 232-1387 Tel (971) 344-2564
no-frills dining hall atmosphere, One of the region’s most This modern, family-friendly
but gets really hectic on weekends. renowned restaurants, Pok Pok place serves flavorful Thai fare.
Two other locations in Greater churns out delicious northern The dishes are always well-
Portland area. Thai specialties. The varied presented, be it scallops in rice
drinks list includes drinking cups floating on a sea of coconut
Bamboo Sushi $$ vinegars and inventive cocktails. milk or hand-spun egg nets with
Sushi Road Map 1 A3 Fiery salads and spicy-sour a filling of pork and peanuts.
310 SE 28th Ave, 97214 curries provide flavors and
Tel (503) 232-5255 textures rarely enjoyed in the
Dine in or enjoy a takeaway of US. The bedrock of a culinary DK Choice
sustainable seafood sushi at empire that has extended Paley’s Place $$$
reasonable rates. Signature house successfully to NYC. New American Road Map 1 A3
rolls, such as ring of fire with fried 1204 NW 21st Ave, 97209
oysters and jalapeno marmalade, Tel (503) 243-2403
should not be missed. Woodsman Tavern $$ A shrine of Northwest cuisine,
New American Road Map 1 A3 Paley’s Place is an intimate
Davenport $$ 4537 SE Division St, 97206 spot located inside a charming
New American Road Map 1 A3 Tel (971) 373-8264 Victorian house in a historic
2215 E Burnside St, 97232 Part old-school tavern, part big- neighborhood. It is owned
Tel (503) 236-8747 city restaurant, Woodsman pays and run by one of the city’s
Juxtaposing a casual setting with homage to Oregon’s heritage. The star chefs. The menu focuses
a refined menu, Davenport is local landscape adorns the walls; on local, seasonal, and
known for its varied wine list and local bounty, the menu. Sophisti- sustainable ingredients. Do
the use of seasonal Northwestern cated all-American entrées such as not miss the house-made
ingredients. The halibut in tomato dry-aged rib-eye and whole grilled charcuterie and local cheeses.
broth is excellent. trout. An impressive raw bar.
For more information on types of restaurants see p293
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296  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Le Pigeon $$$ Brewing Company, located in
New American Map 2 F4 the same space. Sit outside on
738 E Burnside St, 97214 the deck in summer.
Tel (503) 546-8796
The adventurous French-inspired ASTORIA: Columbian Café $$
food at Le Pigeon has won New American Road Map 1 A3
national acclaim. The intimate 1114 Marine Dr, 97103
dining room has communal Tel (503) 325-2233 Closed Mon & Tue
tables as well as a chef’s counter. A local institution, this hole-in-
The menu changes regularly, the-wall diner features a small but
however some dishes remain funky environs, with an eclectic
such as beef cheeks bourgui- clientele. Popular for its specialty
gnon. A wide selection of wines crêpes and hearty breakfasts.
on offer. Fresh, local seafood, as well as
plenty of vegetarian options.
BAKER CITY: Paizano’s Pizza $ The pleasant terrace at Deschutes Brewery
Oregon Italian Road Map 1 C3 and Public House, Bend
2940 10th St, 97814
ASHLAND: Peerless Tel (541) 524-1000 rich clam chowder and fish and
Restaurant $$ This beloved eatery is known for chips in excellent family-friendly
New American Road Map 1 A5 inexpensive, tasty pizzas and environs. Stunning location, with
265 4th St, 97520 great toasted subs. The menu also views of waves lapping the shore
Tel (541) 488-6067 Closed Sun & Mon includes large salads, home-made and Haystack Rock in the distance.
Savor tasty, creative Northwest desserts, and several gluten-free
cuisine with a focus on sustain- choices. Friendly service. CANNON BEACH:
ability, served in a hand somely The Irish Table $$$
restored hotel. Fresh local meats, BAKER CITY: Palm Court $$$ Irish Road Map 1 A3
produce, and artisanal cheese New American Road Map 1 C3 1235 S Hemlock St., 97145
from local dairies. Award-winning 1996 Main St, 97814 Tel (503) 436-0708 Closed Wed & Thu
wine list. Tel (541) 523-1889 This homey, welcoming spot
The ambience in the historic dishes up authentic Irish dishes,
ASHLAND: Smithfields Geiser Grand Hotel’s restaurant made with local produce and
Restaurant and Bar $$ is stately, with crystal chandeliers, seafood. Selections from local
Steakhouse Road Map 1 A5 crisp linens, wood trim, and a wineries prove popular, as do
36 S 2nd St, 97520 stained-glass skylight. Specialties the single malt Scotches, Irish
Tel (541) 488-9948 on the menu include the must- whiskeys, and imported beers.
The award-winning chef/owner try mesquite-smoked prime rib.
turns out a nose-to-tail menu at CARLTON: Cuvée $$
this local favorite. While there BEND: Deschutes Brewery French Road Map 1 A3
are excellent vegetarian options, and Public House $ 214 W Main St, 97111
the steak and charcuterie are American Road Map 1 B4 Tel (503) 852-6555 Closed Mon & Tue
the specialties. Don’t miss the 1044 NW Bond St, 97701 This refined restaurant, in a
bacon beignets. Tel (541) 382-9242 charming small town, offers
This award-winning brewery traditional French country fare
ASTORIA: Wet Dog Café $ is one of the region’s top beer to accompany the wines of the
American Road Map 1 A3 producers. The standard pub fare, local vineyards. The menu is
144 11th St, 97103 including specialty sandwiches, strong on seafood, with excellent
Tel (503) 325-6975 freshly ground burgers, and bouillabaisse and coquilles
Housed in a huge old warehouse home-made sausages, holds St. Jacques, but also includes
on the Columbia River water- up to the craft beers. such delicacies as escargot.
front, this café offers typical pub
fare and craft brews by Astoria BEND: Zydeco Kitchen &
Cocktails $$$ DK Choice
Southern Road Map 1 B4 DAYTON: Joel Palmer
919 Bond St, 97701 House $$$
Tel (541) 312-2899 New American Road Map 1 A3
Zydeco serves American favorites 600 Ferry St, 97114
with a Southern twist, using Tel (503) 864-2995 Closed Sun &
mostly organic ingredients. The Mon
menu features a range of Cajun- A top wine-country destination,
inspired staples, including Joel Palmer House is set in a
barbecued ribs, corn fritters, and historic antebellum mansion.
jambalaya. Festive atmosphere, The internationally inspired
top-notch service. tasting menus place a focus
on wild, local mushrooms
CANNON BEACH: and truffles, and whatever else
Mo’s Cannon Beach $$ is in season. Knowledgeable
Seafood Road Map 1 A3 servers help choose from the
195 Warren Way, 97145 varied wine list that features
Tel (503) 436-1111 Oregon pinot noir, pinot gris,
Chandeliers below a ceiling of stained glass An Oregon coast classic, Mo’s and chardonnay.
at Palm Court, Baker City, Oregon servies basic seafood such as
Key to Price Guide see p294
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  297

DUNDEE: Tina’s $$$
New American Road Map 1 A3
760 Hwy 99 W, 97115
Tel (503) 538-8880
Renowned as a pioneer in
wine-country fine dining, Tina’s
offers a French-Northwest menu
focusing on seasonal, regional
ingredients, which are sourced
from local farmers. The terrific
wine list reads like an Oregon
winemakers’ Hall of Fame.
EUGENE: Taqueria Mi Tierra $
Mexican Road Map 1 A4
68 Blair St, 97402
Tel (541) 743-0779
This family-run, hole-in-the-wall
taqueria churns out authentic
Mexican flavors. On the menu Warm interior at Celilo, Hood River, Oregon
are combo plates for under $10,
served with a variety of fresh salsas. 24-hour dining in the family-style sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, and
Tacos are also popular; choose restaurant, plus an adjoining calzones. Large deck offers views
from a range of fillings including steakhouse open on weekends of the beautiful Wallowa Valley.
chicken, goat, pork, and shrimp. during ski season. Burgers,
sandwiches, and breakfast JOSEPH: Outlaw Restaurant
EUGENE: Beppe & Gianni’s favorites dominate the menu. and Saloon $
Trattoria $$ American Road Map 1 C3
Italian Road Map 1 A4 HOOD RIVER: Full Sail 108 N Main St, 97846
1646 E 19th Ave, 97403 Brewing Company $ Tel (541) 432-4321 Closed Sun
Tel (541) 683-6661 American Road Map 1 B3 This relaxed, family-friendly option
This restaurant is known for a 506 Columbia St, 97031 serves American standards such
variety of expertly executed Tel (541) 386-2247 as steaks, pastas, burgers, and
pastas alongside meat and fish This popular brewery’s pub and seafood dishes. Kids appreciate
dishes, with fine fresh produce tasting room is an ideal spot to the in-house ice-cream bar.
incorporated throughout. take in the Columbia River breeze Lots of space for outside dining,
Magnificent Italian wine list. while sampling a range of award- making for a great summer spot.
winning craft brews. Delicious
EUGENE: Oregon Electric small plates, sandwiches, and LINCOLN CITY:
Station $$ salads to accompany the beer. Blackfish Café $
New American Road Map 1 A4 New American Road Map 1 A3
27 E 5th Ave, 97401 HOOD RIVER: Celilo $$ 2733 NW Hwy 101, 97367
Tel (541) 485-4444 New American Road Map 1 B3 Tel (541) 996-1007 Closed Mon & Tue
Housed in the beautiful 1912 16 Oak St, 97031 The award-winning chef at
train depot, this charming place Tel (541) 386-5710 Blackfish has ties with local
serves top-notch steak, fish, and Celilo is driven by a devotion to fishermen, growers, and foragers
pasta dishes complemented by using fresh and local ingredients, to obtain the freshest ingredients
more than 250 wines. Sit in one and the kitchen turns out seasonal, possible. Seafood dominates
of many lounges, aboard antique delicious dishes, including superb the ever-changing and
train cars, or on a patio. home-made pastas. The decor reasonably priced menu.
resembles a timbered lodge.
GLENEDEN BEACH: The Dining MCMINNVILLE: Nick’s Italian
Room at Salishan $$$ HOOD RIVER: Mount Hood Café $
New American Road Map 1 A3 Railroad Dinner Train $$$ New American Road Map 1 A3
7760 N Hwy 101, 97388 American Road Map 1 B3 521 NE 3rd St, 97128
Tel (800) 452-2300 110 Railroad Ave, 97031 Tel (503) 434-4471
Located in the exclusive Salishan Tel (541) 386-3556 Closed Nov–Mar; This wine-country landmark in a
Spa & Golf Resort, this place Apr–Oct: Mon–Fri former soda fountain is popular
enjoys a long-established Hop aboard a 4-hour rail excursion for its hearty, multi-course, fixed-
reputation as one of the region’s on Saturday night or Sunday menu dinners. It also has a good
best restaurants. Expertly prepared afternoon and enjoy gorgeous wine list featuring local labels.
regional delicacies along with a mountain views. Prime rib, eggs
wine list featuring an unrivaled Benedict and other classic dishes NEWPORT: April’s at
collection of Oregon labels. served in restored dining cars with Nye Beach $$$
roomy booths and large windows. Italian Road Map 1 A3
GOVERNMENT CAMP: 749 NW 3rd St, 97365
Huckleberry Inn $$ JOSEPH: Embers Brewhouse $ Tel (541) 265-6855
American Road Map 1 B3 American Road Map 1 C3 This cozy café offers scenic
88611 E Government Camp Loop, 204 N Main St, 97846 ocean views, and fine, creatively
97028 Tel (541) 432-2739 conceived Northwest cuisine with
Tel (503) 272-3325 This casual brewery offers more Italian accents, accompanied by
A rustic inn set in a mountainside than a dozen regional craft a well-chosen, affordable wine
village near Mt. Hood. There is brews, along with appetizers, list. Excellent desserts.
For more information on types of restaurants see p293
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298  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

OTIS: Otis Café $
American Road Map 1 A3
1259 Salmon River Hwy, 97368
Tel (541) 994-2813
This little roadside café is an
obligatory stop for those headed
to the coast on the Salmon River
Highway. Renowned for its huge,
delicious breakfasts, cinnamon
rolls, and marionberry pie.
PACIFIC CITY: Pelican Pub
and Brewery $$
American Road Map 1 A3
33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr, 97135
Tel (503) 965-7007
Located at the foot of Cape
Kiwanda’s sandstone bluffs, this The busy dining room at Matt’s in the Market, Seattle
award-winning craft brewery has
a sophisticated pub menu served shrimp ceviche, paella, and choco- Ivar’s Acres of Clams $$$
all day in a relaxed atmosphere. late diablo cake. Latin-inspired Seafood Map 3 C2
cocktails go great with the upbeat 1001 Alaskan Way, 98104
SALEM: La Capitale Brasserie $$ atmosphere. Attentive service. Tel (206) 624-6852
French Road Map 1 A3 This venerable local institution
508 State St, 97301 Damn the Weather $$ offers terrific crab, clam, oyster,
Tel (503) 585-1975 Closed Sun New American Map 4 D4 and salmon dishes, as well as
Housed in a historic downtown 116 1st Ave S, 98104 the classic fish and chips they
building, this restaurant focuses on Tel (206) 946-1283 have been serving since 1938.
local, seasonal ingredients, craft Expect the unexpected at this
beers, and fine wines. Savor fashionable gastropub that serves Matt’s in the Market $$$
creative preparations of classic great cocktails and inventive New American Map 3 C1
French dishes, and do not miss small plates of chicken fat fries, 94 Pike St, suite 32, 98101
the home-made charcuterie. duck pot pie, beef heart tartare, Tel (206) 467-7909
and octopus risotto. Tucked into the Corner Market
Building, this gournet restaurant
Seattle DK Choice has a convivial atmosphere and
a seasonal, ever-changing, menu.
Etta’s Seafood $$ Wines and local ales on offer.
Pioneer Square and Seafood Map 3 B1
Downtown 2020 Western Ave, 98121 Place Pigalle $$$
Tel (206) 443-6000 French Map 3 C1
Salumi $ Etta’s is an ultra-chic spot near 81 Pike St, 98101
Italian Map 4 D3 Pike Place Market, with dramatic Tel (206) 624-1756
309 3rd Ave S, 98104 decor and a buzzing atmosphere; A quiet little nook, in a former
Tel (206) 621-8772 it’s the most seafood-focused of fisherman’s tavern, Place Pigalle
This tiny Pioneer Square lunch spot celebrity chef Tom Douglas’s rest- is perfect for a romantic evening.
is famous for its authentic, intensely aurants. Come here for delicious Serves up scrumptious cuisine,
flavorful, Italian cured meat pro- signature Dungeness crab cakes with award-winning seafood
ducts. There is also a small menu that are not to be missed. dishes. Gorgeous views.
of sandwiches, soups, and pastas.
Le Pichet $$ Seattle Center
Pike Place Market French Map 3 C1 and Belltown
and the Waterfront 1933 1st Ave, 98101
Tel (206) 256-1499 FareStart $
Athenian Inn $ This crowded bistro brings a little American Map 2 D5
American Map 3 C1 piece of Paris to Seattle, complete 700 Virginia St, 98101
1517 Pike Pl, 98101 with a zinc bar. Highlights include Tel (206) 267-7601
Tel (206) 624-7166 escargots, lamb and garlic sausage, FareStart provides culinary
An old-time spot in Pike Place and roasted chicken. Head here in training for the homeless and
Market offering friendly service the morning for coffee and pastries other disadvan taged individuals.
along with an extensive, seafood- and at lunch for charcuterie. Open for lunch on weekdays,
heavy menu of American fare with a dinner service featuring
and microbrews. Renowned for The Pink Door $$ local chefs on Thursday nights.
its appearance in the movie Italian Map 3 B1
Sleepless in Seattle (see p139). 1919 Post Alley, 98101 Kedai Makan $
Tel (206) 443-3241 Malaysian Map 2 F4
Tango Restaurant & Lounge $ A lively trattoria serving hearty 1802 Bellevue Ave, 98122
Spanish Map 3 C1 fare. A commitment to organic and Tel (206) 267-7601 Closed Tue
1100 Pike St, 98101 sustainable products extends to Crowds throng to Kedai Makan
Tel (206) 583-0382 the excellent wine list. Burlesque for authentic Malaysian street food
The favorites at this tapas bar, and cabaret performances are and a creative cocktail list. The
located in a 1908 brick building, are featured throughout the week. menu features hand-cut noodles
Key to Price Guide see p294
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