OREGON 99
At the Hatfield Marine Science
Center, headquarters of
Oregon State University’s
marine research programs,
thoughtful exhibits encourage
visitors to explore oceanic
science in many fascinating
ways, from viewing plankton
through a microscope to
spotting patterns of sand
buildup in time-lapse
photography. An octopus that
occupies the first large tank near
the entrance is referred to as the
“tentacled receptionist.” It draws
large crowds at feeding times,
when the tank lid is open. The quiet and unspoiled shoreline near Yachats
Yaquina Head Outstanding
Natural Area, a narrow finger as much of an attraction as 8 Yachats
of lava that juts into the Pacific underwater shows and wax- Road map 1 A3. * 635. n 241 Hwy
Ocean on the north end of work replicas of sea animals. 101, (541) 547-3530. ∑ yachats.org
town, makes it easy to watch
marine animals in their natural Oregon Coast Aquarium The town of Yachats
habitats. Platforms at the base 2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd. Tel (541) 867- (pronounced “ya-hots”), once
of the restored Yaquina Head 3474. Open Memorial Day–Labor home to the Alsea people who
Lighthouse are within close Day: 9am–6pm daily; Labor Day– gave Yachats its name, is the
sight of rocks where seabirds Memorial Day: 10am–5pm daily. sort of place a shore-lover
nest. Pathways lead to the Closed Dec 25. & 7 8 - = dreams about: small, unspoiled,
∑ aquarium.org
edge of tidal pools occupied and surrounded by forested
by kelp crabs, sea urchins, Hatfield Marine mountainsides and surf-
sea anemones, sea stars, and Science Center pounded, rocky headlands. In
octopi. The interpretive center 2030 SE Marine Science Dr. the center of town, the Yachats
looks at human and nonhuman Tel (541) 867-0100. Open Memorial River meets the sea in a little
inhabitants of the headland; Day–Labor Day: 10am–5pm daily; estuary shadowed by fir trees
shell debris attests to the Labor Day–Memorial Day: 10am–4pm and laced with tidal pools. The
presence of the former Thu–Mon. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, rocky shoreline and a stunning
more than 4,000 years ago. Dec 25. & by donation. sunset can be admired from
∑ hmsc.oregonstate.edu
Newport’s working waterfront the Yachats Ocean Road State
stretches along the north side } Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Site, a paved seaside
of Yaquina Bay. Here, the masts Natural Area loop on the south side of town.
of the fishing schooners tower 3 miles (5 km) north of Newport,
over shops and restaurants, off Hwy 101. Tel (541) 574-3100. Y Yachats Ocean Road State
and crab pots and pesky sea Open dawn–dusk daily. Interpretive Natural Site
lions trying to steal bait are center: 10am–4:30pm daily. South of Yachats River, west of Hwy
Lighthouse: 10am–4pm daily 100. Tel (800) 551-6949.
(noon–4pm winter). & 7 Open dawn–dusk daily.
Orcas
The largest
members of the
dolphin family,
orcas are found
throughout the
world’s oceans,
especially in cold
waters. They are Orcas swimming in the cold waters off the coast of Oregon
also known as
killer whales. Along the coast of the Pacific Northwest, transient
orcas roam the ocean from California to Alaska in groups of up to
60 whales. Resident orcas, on the other hand, remain faithful to a
given location; up to 300, organized into matrilinear pods, live off
Shark-watching from the Oregon Coast Vancouver Island in summer.
Aquarium’s suspended tunnel
US_PNW_098-099_Cat2Aquarium.indd 99 04/07/16 12:38 pm
100 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
to platforms near the floor of Environs
the 12-story cavern. Some 200 At nearby Darlingtonia
animals live in the cave during State Natural Site, a short trail
fall and winter; in spring and loops through a bog where
summer they breed on rock Darlingtonia, also known as
ledges just outside the entrance, cobra lily, thrive. These rare,
where they also bear and nurse tall, carnivorous plants are
their young. Burly bulls weighing reminiscent of the human-eaters
up to 2,000 lb (900 kg) boister- of horror films. Their sweet smell
ously guard groups of 15 to 30 traps insects, which fall to the
cows and the newborn pups. bottom of the plant stem, where
they are slowly digested.
Y Heceta Head State Park
Hwy 101, 19 miles (30.5 km) south Y Darlingtonia State
of Yachats. Tel (541) 547-3696. Natural Site
Open dawn–dusk daily. Lighthouse: 5 miles (8 km) north of Florence,
& 8 Memorial Day–Labor Day: off Hwy 101. Tel (800) 551-6949.
11am–5pm daily; Labor Day– Open dawn–dusk daily. 7
Heceta Head Lighthouse, near Cape Memorial Day: call for times.
Perpetua, in operation since 1894 Sea Lion Caves
91560 Hwy 101 N, 11 miles (17.5 km)
9 Cape Perpetua north of Florence. Tel (541) 547-3111.
Scenic Area Open 9am–dusk daily. Closed
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & =
Road map 1 A4. Interpretive center: ∑ sealioncaves.com
2400 Hwy 101. Tel (541) 547-3289.
Open dawn–dusk daily. Closed
Christmas, New Year’s Day. & 8 0 Florence
Part of the Siuslaw National Road map 1 A4. * 8,200.
Forest, Cape Perpetua is the n 290 Hwy 101, (541) 997-3128.
highest – albeit often cloud- ∑ florencechamber.com Dune buggy, Oregon Dunes National
shrouded – viewpoint on the Recreation Area
coast. A road ascends to the top It is easy to speed through
at 800 ft (245 m), but those with Florence en route to the nearby q Oregon
time and stamina may prefer sand dunes. The historic old Dunes National
to make the climb on trails that town, though, tucked away
wind through the old-growth along the banks of the Siuslaw Recreation Area
rainforests from the interpretive River, warrants a stop. Many Road map 1 A4. n 855 Highway 101
center. An easy hike of about of its early 20th-century brick South, Reedsport, (541) 750-7000. Open
a mile (1.5 km) along the Giant and wood buildings now dawn–dusk daily. & ∑ fs.fed.us
Spruce Trail leads to a majestic, house art galleries, and a sizable
500-year-old Sitka spruce. commercial fishing fleet docks Massive sand dunes stretch
From Cape Perpetua, Highway alongside them. The fishing south from Florence for 40 miles
101 descends into Heceta Head boats not only add a great deal (64 km). The desert-like landscape
State Park, where trails offer of color to the surroundings but has been created over thousands
spectacular ocean views. Birds also provide the bounty that of years, as winds, tides, and
nest on the rocks and sea lions appears in the riverside fish ocean currents force sand as far
and gray whales swim just off- markets and restaurants. as 2.5 miles (4 km) inland and
shore. High above the surf rises sculpt it into towering formations
Heceta Head Lighthouse, first lit that reach heights of as much as
in 1894 with a beacon that can 300 ft (90 m). Not just sand but
be seen 21 miles (34 km) out streams, lakes, shore pine forests,
to sea. Guided tours are likely to grasslands, and isolated beaches
include imaginative accounts of attract a wide variety of recre-
hauntings by the wife of a light- ation enthusiasts to this area.
keeper; despite this ghostly Boardwalks make it easy
presence, the lightkeeper’s house to enjoy stunning vistas from
is a popular bed-and-breakfast. Oregon Dunes Day Use site,
A herd of Steller sea lions about 20 miles (32 km) south of
inhabits the Sea Lion Caves, the Florence, whereas the 2.7-mile-
only rookery for wild sea lions (4.3-km-) John Dellenback Dunes
found on the North American Trail, 35 miles (56 km) south of
mainland. An elevator descends Fishing boats in the harbor at Florence, Florence, leads to a beach over
208 ft (63.5 m) from the clifftop on the Siuslaw River some of the area’s largest dunes.
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_100-101_Cat3.indd 100 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 101
Sea stacks rising majestically from the ocean off Bandon, the lights of houses seen in the background
w Bandon enclosed observatory offers Scenic Corridor, 4 miles (6.5 km)
visitors a stunning view of north of Brookings, a town
Road map 1 A4. * 2,900.
n 300 2nd St, (541) 347-9616. the ocean, while interpretive whose claim to fame is supply-
∑ bandon.com panels educate them about ing over 90 percent of the lily
the history of the site. Although bulbs grown in North America.
The small town of Bandon, the mansion is long gone, the
near the mouth of the Coquille gardens continue to thrive Y Oregon State Parks
River, is so weather-beaten, it next to Cape Arago State Park, ∑ oregonstateparks.org
is difficult to imagine that in where seals and sea lions bask Y Shore Acres State Park
the early 20th century it was a in the sun on offshore rocks. Cape Arago Hwy, 13 miles (21 km)
major port of call for cargo ships Cape Blanco State Park, SW of Coos Bay. Tel (541) 888- 4902.
and passenger liners plying the 27 miles (43 km) south of Open 8am–dusk daily. & 7
route between Seattle and Los Bandon, is the westernmost
Angeles. These days, Bandon point in the 48 contiguous Y Cape Arago State Park
is famous for its cranberries, states and one of the windiest End of Cape Arago Hwy, 15 miles (24
which are harvested in bogs spots on earth, with winter gusts km) southwest of Coos Bay. Tel (800)
north of the town. exceeding 180 mph (290 km/h). 551-6949. Open dawn–dusk daily.
Craggy rock formations rise The park’s lighthouse is the Y Cape Blanco State Park
from the sea just off Bandon’s oldest on the Oregon coast, 9 miles (14.5 km) north of Port Orford,
beach. These wind-sculpted having been first lit in 1870. off Hwy 101. Tel (800) 551-6949.
shapes include Face Rock, Highway 101 nears the Open dawn–dusk daily. Lighthouse:
allegedly an Indian maiden California border in a stretch of Open Apr–Oct: 10am–3:30pm daily. &
frozen into stone by an evil spirit. dense forests, towering cliffs, and Y Samuel H. Boardman State
A wilder landscape of dunes and offshore rock formations. Some Scenic Corridor
sea grass prevails at Bullards of the most spectacular scenery Hwy 101, 4 miles (6.5 km) north
Beach State Park, which lies is within the boundaries of the of Brookings. Tel (800) 551-6949.
across the marshy, bird-filled Samuel H. Boardman State Open dawn–dusk daily.
Coquille Estuary from Bandon.
Y Bullards Beach State Park
2 miles (3 km) north of Bandon, off
Hwy 101. Tel (541) 347-3501.
Open dawn–dusk daily.
Environs
In the early 1900s, lumber baron
Louis J. Simpson built Shore
Acres, an estate atop oceanside
bluffs outside the town of Coos
Bay, 25 miles (40 km) north of
Bandon. It is now the site of
Shore Acres State Park. Simpson
enhanced this magnificent spot
with formal gardens of azaleas,
rhododendrons, and roses. An Driftwood on the beach near Bandon, looking toward the town
US_PNW_100-101_Cat3.indd 101 04/07/16 12:38 pm
102 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
e Wine Country of the
North Willamette Valley
The rich, wet, temperate valley that surrounds the
Willamette River as it flows north from Eugene to join
the Columbia River has yielded a bounty of fruits and
vegetables ever since Oregon Trail pioneers began
farming the land in the mid-19th century. In the 1960s,
the valley’s soil was also found to be ideal for growing Farms dotting the valley slopes
grapes, especially the pinot noir, pinot gris, and of Yamhill County
chardonnay varietals. Now, vineyards carpet the rolling
hillsides, especially in Yamhill County. Though the wine
country of North Willamette Valley is not as developed
as that of Napa Valley, its output is arguably just as
good. It is easy to conduct a taste test since dozens
of wineries are conveniently located just off Highway
99 W between McMinnville and Newberg.
Yamhill
9 EIEIO & Company
The wines of many
small producers whose
wineries are not open
to the public are
available here for
tasting and purchase.
Carlton
8 Eyrie Vineyards
This pioneering winery,
established in 1966,
produced the
Willamette Valley’s
first pinot noir and
chardonnay and the
US’s first pinot gris.
Typical of the valley, the lush vineyards
at Domaine Serene
McMinnville
Salem
0 kilometers 4
0 miles 2
7 Anne Amie Vineyards
The views of the Willamette Valley
are one attraction of this hilltop
winery; several fine white wines
are another.
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_102-103_TourMap.indd 102 04/07/16 12:34 pm
OREGON 103
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: About 35 miles
(56 km).
Starting point: On 99 W a few
miles east of Newberg, which is
38 miles (58 km) west of Portland.
Stopping-off points: Dundee
boasts many well-known
restaurants, of which Tina’s is
arguably the star. Newberg,
3 Argyle Winery McMinnville, and Dayton also
This winery specializes in sparkling wines. The tasting room is in a have good places to eat.
picturesque Victorian farmhouse.
1 Rex Hill Vineyards
Shady hillside gardens and an
antiques-filled tasting room
warmed by a fire are lovely spots
Portland to taste this winery’s award-
winning pinot noirs.
Newberg
Willamette River 2 Hoover-Minthorn House
An orphaned Herbert Hoover,
who would become the 31st US
president, came west from Iowa
to live with his aunt and uncle in
this handsome house in 1885, at
the age of 11.
Dundee
4 Torii Mor
Lovely Japanese
J gardens surround
the tasting room of
this winery, which is
known for its pinot
noir, pinot gris, and
pinot blanc.
Dayton
6 Sokol
Blosser Winery
Here, at one of the
region’s oldest and
largest wineries,
visitors are offered a
self-guided tour of the
vineyards and a glass The Willamette River, meandering through
of dry white wine. the fertile North Willamette Valley
5 Maresh Red Hills Vineyard
Wines from Maresh vineyard
grapes, custom-made by
three Oregon wineries, are
on offer here. The vineyard, Key
Oregon’s fifth-oldest, grows
pinot noir and pinot gris, Tour route
among other varietals. Other road
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_102-103_TourMap.indd 103 04/07/16 12:34 pm
104 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
y Salem
Road map 1 A3. * 154,500.
n 181 High St NE, (800) 874-7012.
∑ travelsalem.com
Salem was a thriving trading
post and lumber port on the
Willamette River when it
became the capital of the
Oregon Territory in 1851.
At the edge of Bush’s
Pasture Park stands Bush House
Museum, an 1878 home with ten
marble fireplaces and a conser-
Howard Hughes’ “Spruce Goose” at the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum vatory said to be the first green-
house west of the Mississippi
r McMinnville of Douglas firs, hemlocks, and River, and the historic Deepwood
cedars to the trail’s cataracts; Estate. The Willamette Heritage
Road map 1 A3. * 32,000.
n 417 NW Adams St, (503) 472-6196. the largest, South Falls, Center preserves some of the
∑ mcminnville.org plunges 177 ft (54 m) state’s earliest structures: the
down a mossy cliff 1841 home of Jason Lee, who
In this prosperous town into a deep pool. helped found Salem; the 1847
surrounded by the Willamette At the southern home of state treasurer John
Valley vineyards, the Downtown edge of Boon; and the Kay Woolen Mill,
Historic District is graced by the Silverton is where waterwheels
old Oregon Hotel, McMinnville The Oregon from the 1890s
Bank, and many other late 19th- Garden. Rising remain intact.
and early 20th-century buildings. high above The state’s early
The excellent reputation of ivy- the groomed history is also in
clad Linfield College, chartered landscape is evidence around
in 1858, has long put McMinnville a magnificent the Oregon State
on the map, but these days the stand of oaks Capitol. A gilded
university shares the honor with that are over The 1894 Deepwood pioneer stands
the “Spruce Goose.” This wooden 100 years old. The Estate in Salem atop the rotunda
flying boat, built in the 1940s, Gordon House, set of the building.
is housed in the Evergreen in a shady grove near the Marble sculptures of a covered
Aviation & Space Museum, garden’s entrance, is designed wagon and of Lewis and Clark
where its 320-ft (97.5-m) by renowned architect Frank (see p41) flank the entrance,
wing span spreads above early Lloyd Wright. and the murals inside depict
passenger planes, World War II Captain Robert Gray’s discovery
fighters, and other vintage civilian Y Silver Falls State Park of the Columbia River in 1792.
and military air craft. There is also Hwy 214, 10 miles (16 km) east On the Willamette University
an indoor waterpark nearby. of Salem. Tel (800) 551-6949. campus is Waller Hall, the
Open dawn–dusk daily. & oldest college building in
E Evergreen Aviation & ∑ oregonstateparks.org Oregon, constructed in 1867;
Space Museum Y The Oregon Garden and the striking Hallie Ford
460 NE Capt. Michael King Smith Way. 879 W Main St. Tel (503) 874-8100. Museum of Art, which houses
Tel (503) 434-4185. Open 9am–5pm Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; an outstanding collection of
daily. Closed major hols. & 7 = Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily. & 7 8 20th-century Native American
∑ evergreenmuseum.org = - ∑ oregongarden.org basketry and paintings.
t Silverton
Road map 1 A3. * 7,500.
n 426 S Water St, (503) 873-5615.
∑ silvertonchamber.org
This pleasant old farming town
in the foothills of the Cascade
Mountains is the entryway to
Silver Falls State Park, the largest
state park in Oregon. The Trail
of Ten Falls follows Silver Creek
through a temperate rainforest The Oregon State Capitol Building in Salem
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_104-105_Cat4TownMap.indd 104 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 105
E Bush House Museum u Eugene
600 Mission St SE. Tel (503) 363-4714.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Road map 1 A4. * 160,000.
Sat & Sun. Closed major hols. & n 754 Olive St, (541) 484-5307.
8 compulsory. ∑ eugenecascadescoast.org
P Deepwood Estate The University of Oregon
1116 Mission St SE. Tel (503) 363-1825. brings no small amount of
Open Grounds: dawn–dusk daily. culture and animation to the
House: May–Sep: 9am–noon Wed– second-largest city in Oregon,
Mon; Oct–Apr: 11am–3pm Wed,
Thu & Sat. Closed major hols. & 8 which straddles the banks of
∑ historicdeepwoodestate.org the Willamette River at the
south end of the river valley. Local arts and crafts at the Saturday Market
E Willamette Heritage Center The peak-roofed, glass-and- in Eugene
1313 Mill St SE. Tel (503) 585-7012. timber Hult Center for the
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. & 8
∑ willametteheritage.org Performing Arts, designed good use of the city’s many
by the New York firm Hardy bicycle and rollerblading paths,
P Oregon State Capitol Holzman Pfeiffer Associates pedestrian malls, and parks.
900 Court St NE. Tel (503) 986-1388. and completed in 1982, is
Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
considered to be one of the F Hult Center for the
P Waller Hall best-designed performing arts Performing Arts
900 State St. Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. complexes in the world. The 1 Eugene Center. Tel (541) 682-5000.
University of Oregon Museum ∑ hultcenter.org
E Hallie Ford Museum of Art
700 State St. Tel (503) 370-6855. of Natural and Cultural History E University of Oregon Museum
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm counts among its holdings the of Natural and Cultural History
Sun. Closed major hols. & 7 = world’s oldest shoes – a pair of 1680 E 15th Ave. Tel (541) 346-3024.
sandals dating from 9500 BC. Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun.
Local artisans and farmers Closed major hols. =
sell their wares weekly at the ∑ natural-history.uoregon.edu
Saturday Market, a large collec- ( Saturday Market
tion of stalls on the downtown 8th Ave & Oak St. Tel (541) 686-8885.
Park Blocks; and the 5th Street Open Apr–Nov: 10am–5pm Sat.
Public Market, a collection ∑ eugenesaturdaymarket.org
of shops and restaurants in a ( 5th Street Public Market
converted feed mill, bustles with High & 5th Sts. Open 10am–7pm
Bush House Museum, built in 1878, locals and the more than 17,000 Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun.
a historic landmark in Salem university students who make ∑ 5stmarket.com
Salem City Center
1 Bush House Museum
2 Deepwood Estate
3 Willamette Heritage Center F R O NT S TR E ET Bus Station
4 Oregon State Capitol Reed C E NT E R S T R E ET
WINTER ST
5 Waller Hall Opera House CH EME KE TA S TR E E T
6 Hallie Ford Museum of Art 22 Elsinore C OU R T S TRE E T State Capitol CAPITOL ST
CO MM E RC I AL S TRE E T F ER RY ST Museum of Art Waller 1 2 TH STR E ET 1 4TH ST R E ET
Oregon
Theatre
S TATE STRE ET
Hallie Ford
Hall
T RA D E S T R EE T
L IB ER T Y ST R EE T H IGH ST R EET CHU R CH S TR E ET Pringle PARKWAY 22 WI N T ER ST R E ET B E LLE V U E S TR E E T MILL ST
Willamette
University
Willamette
Heritage Center
Creek
Station
Bush House Park OAK ST R E E T 12 TH S T REET 1 3 T H S TRE ET Amtrak
Museum MI SS IO N ST REE T UNIVERSITY ST
Deepwood
Estate
0 meters 400
0 yards 400
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_104-105_Cat4TownMap.indd 105 04/07/16 12:38 pm
106 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
o Sisters
Road map 1 B4. * 2,000.
n 291 E Main Ave, (541) 549-0251.
∑ sisterscountry.com
Sisters is a ranching town that
cashes in on its cowboy history
with Old West-style storefronts
and wood sidewalks. The setting,
though, is authentic – the
peaks of the Three Sisters, each
exceeding 10,000 ft (3,000 m),
tower majestically above the
town and the surrounding pine
forests, alpine meadows, and
Swimming pool fed by hot springs at the Warm Springs Reservation resort rushing streams. The downtown
area has been renovated as part
i Madras and Reservation, located on the of a $6 million project.
Warm Springs High Desert plateaus and
forested Cascade slopes Environs
Road map 1 B3. Madras: of central Oregon. These The McKenzie Pass climbs from
n 274 SW 4th St, (541) 475-2350. Confederated Tribes preserve Sisters to a 1-mile (1.6-km)
∑ madraschamber.com their heritage at the Museum summit amid a massive lava flow.
Warm Springs: n 1233 Veterans St, at Warm Springs with a The Dee Wright Observatory,
(541) 553-1161.∑ warmsprings.com stunning collection of basketry built from lava rock, provides
and beadwork, haunting pano ramic views of more than a
Madras is a desert ranching historic photographs, and dozen Cascades peaks and buttes
town surrounded by rimrock videotapes of tribal ceremonies. and of the sweeping lava fields,
and vast tracts of wilderness The Tribes also manage a casino which can be examined at close
recreation lands. Crooked River and a resort, where a large pool range on the half-mile (0.8-km)
National Grassland provides is heated by hot springs. Lava River Interpretive Trail.
endless vistas as well as fishing The cold and clear waters of
and rafting opportunities on } Crooked River the Metolius River flow through
two US National Wild and Scenic National Grassland fragrant pine forests on the flanks
Rivers – the Deschutes and the 10 miles (16 km) S of Madras, of Mount Jefferson. Near Camp
Crooked – that weave through off Hwy 26. Open dawn–dusk daily. Sherman, a tiny settlement of
the 175 sq miles (453 sq km) n 813 SW Hwy 97, Madras. cabins 14 miles (22.5 km) west
of juniper and sagebrush. Cove Tel (541) 475-9272. ∑ fs.usda.org of Sisters, the river bubbles up
Palisades State Park surrounds Y Cove Palisades State Park from springs beneath Black Butte.
Lake Billy Chinook, where 15 miles (24 km) SW of Madras, The view from the scenic over-
deep waters reflecting the off Hwy 97. Tel (541) 546-3412. look above the headwaters
surrounding basalt cliffs are Open dawn–dusk daily. & usually includes fly-fishing enthu-
popular with boaters. ∑ oregonstateparks.org siasts casting their lines into one
The Treaty of 1855 between E Museum at Warm Springs of the state’s best trout streams.
the US government and the 2189 Hwy 26, Warm Springs.
Wasco, Walla Walla, and Paiute Tel (541) 553-3331. Open 9am– } Dee Wright Observatory
tribes established lands for 5pm Tue–Sat. Closed Jan 1, Hwy 242, 15 miles (24 km) west of
the tribes on the 1,000 sq miles Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & = Sisters. Open mid-Jun–Oct: dawn–
(2,590 sq km) Warm Springs ∑ museumatwarmsprings.org dusk daily. Closed Oct–mid-Jun.
Galloping horses near Sisters, the towering peaks of the Three Sisters mountains visible in the distance
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_106-107_Cat5TownMap.indd 106 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 107
snow-capped peaks. Exhibits at
the Lava Lands Visitor Center
explain how Newberry Volcano
has been built by thousands
of eruptions that began about
400,000 years ago – the last
eruption occurred about 1,300
years ago – and which, seismic
activity suggests, may begin
again. Other exhibits highlight
central Oregon’s cultural
history. Well-marked roads and
interpretive trails lead to major
sites within the monument.
Bend’s High Desert Museum, showcasing life in central and eastern Oregon At Lava River Cave, a passage
extends almost 1 mile (1.5 km)
p Smith Rock the center of town, overlooks into a lava tube, a channel
State Park the High Desert and nine through which molten lava
snowcapped Cascade peaks.
once flowed. At Lava Cast
Road map 1 B4. Tel (541) 548-7501. The High Desert Museum Forest, a paved loop trail
Open dawn–dusk daily. & celebrates life in the rugged, transverses a forest of hollow
∑ oregonstateparks.org arid High Desert terrain that molds formed by molten lava,
covers much of central and which created casts around tree
At Smith Rock, the Crooked River eastern Oregon. Walk-through trunks. A road ascends into the
flows beneath towering rock dioramas use dramatic lighting 18-mile- (29-km-) wide caldera,
faces of welded tuff – volcanic and sound effects in authentic where Paulina and East Lakes
ash that was compressed under re-creations of Native American sparkle amid pine forests. It
intense heat and pressure. These dwellings, a wagon camp, then skirts a massive field of
unusually shaped peaks and a silver mine, and other scenes shiny black lava known as the
pinnacles – with compelling of desert settlement. Outdoors, Big Obsidian Flow as it climbs to
names like Morning Glory Wall a trail crossing the floor of a the 7,987-ft (2,434-m) summit of
and Pleasure Palace – are a lure forest of ponderosa pine leads Paulina Peak, the highest point
for risk-taking rock climbers, to replicas of a settler’s cabin within Newberry Monument.
who ascend the sometimes and a sawmill, and to natural In addition to magnificent
more than 550-ft (168-m) sheer habitats, including a trout stream, scenery, the monument
faces on over 1,300 climbing an otter pond, and an aviary filled provides opportunities
routes. The less intrepid can with hawks and other raptors. for hiking, fishing, boating,
enjoy the spectacle from camping, and winter recreation.
roadside viewpoints or from Y Pilot Butte State
one of the many hiking trails Scenic Viewpoint Lava Lands Visitor Center
that follow the base of the cliffs. East end of Greenwood Ave. Tel (800) 58201 Hwy 97. Tel (541) 383-5700.
551-6949. Open 8am–8pm daily. Open May–Jun & Sep: 9am–5pm
∑ oregonstateparks.org Thu–Mon; Jul–Aug: 9am–5pm daily;
a Bend E High Desert Museum Oct: 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed
Road map 1 B4. * 82,000. 59800 S Hwy 97. Tel (541) 382-4754. Oct 13–Apr 30. ∑ fs.usda.gov
n 750 NW Lava Rd, Suite 160, Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm daily, Nov–
(541) 382-8048. ∑ visitbend.com Apr: 10am–4pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Jul 4, Thanks giving, Dec 25. & - =
Busy Bend, once a sleepy lumber ∑ highdesertmuseum.org
town, is alluringly close to the ski
slopes, lakes, streams, and the
many other natural attractions s Newberry
of central Oregon. While National Volcanic
unsightly development is quickly
replacing juniper- and sage- Monument
covered grazing lands on the Road map 1 B4. Open May–Oct:
outskirts, the Old Mill District dawn–dusk daily. & ∑ fs.usda.gov
retains a good deal of small-town
charm. Drake Park is a grassy The Newberry National
downtown retreat on the bank Volcanic Monument
of the Deschutes River, and Pilot encompasses eerie and bleak
Butte State Scenic Viewpoint, landscapes of black lava, as well
atop a volcanic cinder cone as sparkling mountain lakes, A rock outcrop at the Newberry National
that rises 500 ft (150 m) from waterfalls, hemlock forests, and Volcanic Monument
US_PNW_106-107_Cat5TownMap.indd 107 04/07/16 12:38 pm
108 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
d Cascade Lakes Highway
This loop is often called Century Drive because the circuit is just under
100 miles (160 km) long. A stunning display of forest and mountain scenery
unfolds in this relatively short distance. Most memorable are the many
vistas of sparkling lakes backed by craggy Cascade peaks. Trails into the
deep wilderness, idyllic picnic and camping spots, lakes and streams
brimming with trout and salmon, and ski slopes and rustic resorts are likely
to tempt even the most time-pressed traveler to linger on this scenic byway
for as long as possible.
7 Mount Bachelor
Some of the best skiing and
snowboarding in the Pacific
Northwest is here, on Mount CASCADE LAKES HIGHWAY
Bachelor’s 88 runs. There are also
numerous trails for cross-country
skiing and snowshoeing.
J
Hosmer
5 Devil’s Garden Lake
Astronauts trained on foot
and in moon buggies for Blow
their historic 1969 moonwalk Lake
on this enormous 45-sq-mile
(117-sq-km) lava flow.
Lava
Lake
Little
Lava
Lake
Cultus
Lake
6 Sparks Lake
This large shallow trout lake, surrounded by mountains, lava
formations, and meadow, was considered by photographer
Ray Atkeson to be the most scenic place in Oregon.
Crane
4 Elk Lake Prairie
Conveniently located along the Reservoir
Cascade Lakes Highway, Elk Lake
is a popular destination for
sailing, windsurfing, and fishing.
The store at the Elk Lake Resort
rents canoes, motorboats,
rowboats, and paddleboats.
3 Osprey Observation Point
Crane Prairie Reservoir hosts a
large colony of osprey that 0 kilometers 5 Wickiup
plunge from the sky like 0 miles 4 Reservoir
meteorites to pluck fish
out of the water.
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_108-109_PicMap.indd 108 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 109
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 95 miles (153 km).
Starting points: Highway 372
or Highway 97 out of Bend.
When to go: June to mid-October.
Stopping-off points: Picnic spots
abound, but since provisions are
few, it’s best to pack the hamper
in Bend. Elk Lake and Cultus Lake
have restaurants and grocery
stores. Travelers in search of more
8 Dutchman Flat sophisticated dining should stop
Quiet and seclusion are the rich rewards for hiking at the lodges in Sunriver and at
a short distance to this picturesque desert area.
Mount Bachelor.
Bend
Newberry
CASCADE LAKES HIGHWAY
National
Volcanic
Monument
J
Sunriver
Deschutes River 1 High Desert Museum
This museum shows the desert
in its full glory and explains
its evolution, flora, and fauna.
Visitors can see live animals
in their natural habitats.
2 Lava Butte
A paved road ascends to the
top of this extinct volcanic cone,
affording spectacular views of
the Cascade Mountains.
Key
Tour route
Other road
Wickiup
Reservoir
Striking view from Newberry National Volcanic Monument
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_108-109_PicMap.indd 109 04/07/16 12:38 pm
110 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
f Crater Lake National Park Tour
Oregon’s only National Park surrounds a lake that, at 1,949 ft (594 m),
is the deepest in the US and the ninth deepest in the world. Creation
of Crater Lake began about 7,700 years ago when
Mount Mazama erupted and then collapsed,
forming the caldera in which the lake now sits.
The crater rim rises an average of 1,000 ft (300 m)
above the lake. On the drive that circles the lake,
the many overlooks, 90 miles (144 km) of trails,
and a beautiful lodge afford stunning views.
4 Merriam Point
This promontory is an excellent spot from which J Crater Lake
to admire the west side of the lake, with the
cone-shaped Wizard Island and its surrounding
black volcanic blocks.
3 The Watchman J
This viewpoint, reached after a Rim Village J
moderate climb, is named for
its historic fire tower, and is the
closest lookout to Wizard Island.
2 Wizard Island 0 kilometers 4
Wizard Island is a small volcanic 0 miles 3
island in the shape of a cone
jutting 764 ft (233 m) above the
surface of the lake. At the summit •
is a crater 300 ft (90 m) across. Mazama Village
1 Crater Lake Lodge
This rustic hotel perched on the caldera rim has
welcomed guests since 1915. Extensive renovations
have restored the structural integrity of the building,
once at risk of collapsing under its own weight and
that of the 15 ft (4.5 m) of snow that can accumulate
in winter. Magnificent views can be enjoyed from here.
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_110-111_SS_TourMap.indd 110 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 111
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 33 miles (53 km).
Starting point: Steel Information
Center, on Rim Drive 4 miles
(6.5 km) north of Route 62.
When to go: Rim Drive is open
from the end of June to mid-
October, weather permitting.
Stopping-off points: Meals are
offered at Crater Lake Lodge and
Annie Creek Restaurant near
Mazama (Jun–mid-Oct); snacks
are sold in Rim Village. Two-hour
narrated boat trips (late Jun–mid-
Sep: 10am–4pm daily) depart
Tourists departing on a boat tour from Cleetwood Cove, on the from Cleetwood Cove.
north shore of the lake
5 Rim Drive
On this 33-mile (53-km) circuit, spectacular
RIM DRIVE vistas of the lake, the islands, and the
surrounding mountains unfold at every turn.
6 Cleetwood Trail 7 Mount Scott
This 1-mile (1.6-km) When weather allows,
strenuous trail, which views from this peak –
drops a steep 700 ft at 8,929 ft (2,722 m) the
(210 m), provides the highest point in the
only access to the lake. park – extend as far
In summer, a boat tour as California’s Mount
Crater Lake J departs from the dock Shasta, located 100 miles
at the base of the trail. (160 km) to the south.
8 The Pinnacles
J An eerie landscape of pumice spires, known as
J
J
Rim Village Phantom fossil fumaroles, rises from the caldera’s eastern
Ship base. Many of the spires are hollow.
9 Castle Crest – Wildflower Trail
Spectacular wildflowers bloom in July and August
alongside this easy-to-walk 0.4-mile (0.6-km) trail.
J
0 Sinnott Memorial Overlook
Key Breathtaking views reward the short descent to this
Tour route point just below the caldera rim, where park rangers
Other road give geology talks.
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_110-111_SS_TourMap.indd 111 04/07/16 12:38 pm
112 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
j Ashland
Road map 1 A5. * 20,000.
n 110 E Main St, (541) 482-3486.
∑ ashlandchamber.com
At first glance, it may be difficult
to believe that every year some
125,000 theatergoers descend
on Ashland, an amiable town
surrounded by farms and
orchards. What draws them
is the Oregon Shakespeare
A park ranger giving a tour in the Oregon Caves National Monument Festival, established in 1935,
and now presenting, between
g Oregon Caves h Jacksonville February and October, an
National Road map 1 A4. * 2,600. annual schedule of 11 plays by
Monument n 185 Oregon St, (541) 899-8118. Shakespeare, in addition to other
∑ jacksonvilleoregon.org works by classic and contem-
Road map 1 A5. n Oregon Route 46, porary playwrights. Theater
Cave Junction, (541) 592-2100. In this Gold Rush boomtown, buffs can also view props
Open 9:30am–5pm daily. & time has more or less stood still and costumes from past per-
8 hourly Apr–Oct. ∑ nps.gov since the 1880s, when Rich Gulch form ances at the Festival Exhibit
Creek ceased to yield gold and Center, and take backstage
Visitors on the 70-minute the main railroad lines bypassed tours of the festival’s three
guided tours of these vast the town. Jacksonville is now venues: the 1,200-seat, open-air
underground caverns follow the heart of the burgeoning Allen Elizabethan Theatre; the
lighted trails past strange southern Oregon wine region, Angus Bowmer Theatre, which
formations, cross underground where over 80 varietals are seats 600 people; and the
rivers, squeeze through giant grown in diverse microclimates. modern Thomas Theater.
ribs of marble, and clamber With more than 80 brick
up and down staircases into and wood-frame 19th-century _ Oregon Shakespeare Festival
enor mous chambers hung with buildings, Jacksonville has been 15 S Pioneer St. Tel (541) 482-4331.
stalactites. Discovered in 1874 designated a National Historic ∑ osfashland.org
by a hunter chasing his dog into Landmark. A walking tour (a map
a dark hole in the side of Elijah is available from the information Environs
Mountain, the caves have been center in the old railroad depot) Many commercial outfitters
formed by the steady trickling shows off the town’s wealth of launch raft and jet boat trips
of water over the past hundreds architecture and history. The from Grants Pass, 40 miles
of thousands of years. Above Beekman House (c.1876) is a (64 km) north of Ashland on I-5.
ground, three trails cross a museum that offers a glimpse The Rogue River rushes 215
remnant old-growth coniferous of how the town’s prosperous twisting miles (346 km) through
forest and lead to an ancient burghers once lived, with original Siskiyou National Forest and
and noble Douglas fir, famous furnishings and actors dressed other wilderness before reaching
for having the widest girth of in costumes of the period. the Pacific Ocean. Elk, mountain
any known tree in Oregon. The beautiful hillside estate lions, and bears are often seen
of 19th-century photo grapher roaming the riverbanks, and
Peter Britt is the setting of bald eagles fly overhead.
the annual Britt Festivals, the
Pacific Northwest’s premier
outdoor performing arts
summer festival. Internationally
famous artists representing
various music genres –
including rock, country, jazz,
folk, bluegrass, and pop –
perform beneath a canopy
of ponderosa pines (see p35).
P Beekman House
352 E California St. Tel (541) 773-6536.
Open by appointment. & =
_ Britt Festivals
Jacksonville’s Beekman House, built during 216 W Main St, Medford. Tel (541) A Renaissance stage set at the Oregon
the Gold Rush 773-6077. ∑ brittfest.org Shakespeare Festival
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_112-113_TourMap.indd 112 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 113
k Steens Mountain Tour Tips for Drivers
Scenery does not get much more rugged and grand Tour length: 58 miles (93.5km).
than it does here on this 9,700-ft (2,960-m) mountain. Starting point: North Loop Road
Steens Mountain is a fault-block, formed when land on in Frenchglen.
When to go: The entire Steens
two sides of a geological fault rose and fell to different Loop Road is closed from
levels. As a result, the west slope of this mountain rises November to June due to snow
gradually from sagebrush country through stands of cover, though snow squalls and
aspen, juniper, and mountain mahogany, while the lightning storms can occur in
any season.
east face drops precipitously for more than a mile Getting around: This dirt and
(1.5 km). Pronghorn, bighorn sheep, and wild horses gravel road is steep in parts.
roam craggy gorges and alpine tundra carpeted with It is not suitable for vehicles
wildflowers, and eagles and falcons soar overhead. with low clearance.
Stopping-off points: Many
The Steens Mountain National Back Country Byway scenic overlooks, picnic spots,
traverses this remarkable landscape. and some campgrounds are
located on the route. Frenchglen
has lodging and restaurants.
1 Donner und Blitzen River
An army officer named this rushing torrent
“Thunder and Lightning” while attempting
to cross it during a thunderstorm in 1864.
Bend
Frenchglen
NORTH LOOP ROAD
3 Kiger Gorge
2 Lily Lake Massive glaciers
Many Steens lakes have bulldozed four
filled with sediment and immense gorges
plants and become on the mountain;
alpine meadows. Lovely Kiger Gorge plunges
marsh-fringed Lily Lake Donnerund Blitzen River half a mile (0.8 km).
is also slowly in the
process of silting up.
SOUTH LOOP ROAD
5 Wildhorse Lake
Glaciers carved
terraces out of the
walls of the deep
gorge that encircles
this sparkling lake.
4 East Rim Viewpoint Key
This perch is a full mile (1.6 km) Tour route
above the alkali flats of the Alvord
Desert; sitting in the rain shadow
of the mountain, this desolate
desert receives a mere 6 inches 0 kilometers 8
(15 cm) of rain a year. 0 miles 6
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_112-113_TourMap.indd 113 04/07/16 12:38 pm
114 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
(756 sq km) of the Blitzen Valley poplarshaded ranch town
floor. More than 320 species where the number of guests
of birds and 58 species staying at the hotel determines
of mammals inhabit the whether the town’s population
wet lands, meadows, and exceeds the single digits.
uplands, ensuring prime wildlife
viewing for visitors. Sandhill } Diamond Loop National Back
cranes, tundra swans, snowy Country Byway
white egrets, whitefaced ibis, n 28910 Hwy 20 W, Hines.
pronghorn antelope, mule deer, Tel (541) 5734400.
and redband trout are among
the most numerous of the
refuge’s denizens.
Spring and fall are the best
times to view birds, which alight
in the refuge on their annual
The seemingly endless desert landscape of migrations up and down the
the Jordan Valley Pacific Flyway, a major north–
south route for migrating North
l Jordan Valley American waterfowl. A small
museum houses specimens
Road map 1 C4. * 239.
∑ cityofjordanvalley.com of birds commonly seen in the
refuge. Starting at the center, Resting mule deer in the Malheur National
This scruffy desert ranching the Central Patrol Road traverses Wildlife Refuge
settlement is one of only a few the 40mile (64km) length of
towns in sparsely populated the refuge and provides access x John Day Fossil
Malheur County, where to the prime viewing spots.
just 28,000 people inhabit The P Ranch, at the south end, Beds National
10,000 sq miles (25,900 sq km). is the historic spread of Peter Monument
Jordan Valley makes two claims French, who settled the Blitzen
to fame. A legacy of the Basque Valley in the 1880s. Road map 1 B3. n Hwy 19, 40 miles
sheepherders who settled (64 km) west of John Day, (541)
9872333. Open dawn–dusk daily;
the town in 1890 is the ball Environs Thomas Condon Paleontology Center
court, built in 1915, for playing From the refuge, the 69mile (Sheep Rock unit): Open 9am–5pm
pelota, a game that resembles (111km) Diamond Loop daily. Closed major hols between
American handball. A wind National Back Country Byway Thanksgiving & Presidents’ Day.
swept, sagebrushfilled heads into sagecovered hills ∑ nps.gov
cemetery 17 miles (27 km) and red rimrock canyons. Along
south of town on Highway 95 the route are Diamond Craters, Prehistoric fossil beds litter the
is the final resting place of Jean a volcanic landscape formed John Day Fossil Beds National
Baptiste Charbonneau, son of between 17,000 and 25,000 Monument, where sedimentary
the Indian guide Sacagawea years ago; the Round Barn, rocks preserve the plants and
(see p41). Born in 1805, Jean was a distinctive 19thcentury animals that flourished in jungles
taken across the country with structure with a round stone and savannas for 40 million years,
the Lewis and Clark party, which corral surrounded by a circular between the extinction of the
his mother helped guide. Years paddock; and Diamond, a small, dinosaurs and the beginning of
later, he died of a chill at a
stagecoach stop near Jordan
Valley in 1866.
z Malheur National
Wildlife Refuge
Road map 1 C4. Tel (541) 4932612.
Refuge and museum: Open dawn–
dusk daily. Closed major hols. Visitors’
center: Open midMar–midOct:
8am–4pm daily; midOct–midMar:
8am–4pm Mon–Thu. Closed major
hols. 7 ∑ fws.gov/malheur
One of the nation’s largest
wildlife refuges, Malheur
spreads across 292 sq miles Formations at John Day Fossil Beds National Monument’s Sheep Rock unit
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_114-115_Cat1.indd 114 04/07/16 12:34 pm
OREGON 115
other artifacts depict the horse
culture, seasonal migrations,
forced resettlements, and
current success of the Cayuse,
Umatilla, and Walla Walla
tribes, who have lived on the
Columbia River plateau for
more than 10,000 years.
P Pendleton Woolen Mills
1307 SE Court Pl. Tel (541) 276-6911.
Salesroom: Open 8am–6pm Mon–Sat,
9am–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
The magnificent Painted Hills at John Day Fossil Beds National Monument Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 8 9am,
11am, 1:30pm, 3pm Mon–Fri. =
the most recent ice age. The however, that these more ∑ pendleton-usa.com
monument comprises three colorful days belong to the E Pendleton Round-Up
units: Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, past. Pendleton Woolen Mills and Happy Canyon Hall of
and Clarno. At all three, trails (see p80), known for its warm Fame Museum
provide opportunities for close- clothing and blankets, 1205 SW Court Ave. Tel (541) 276-2553.
up observation of the fossil particularly its “legendary” Open 10am–4pm Sat. Closed major
beds. Painted Hills blankets whose designs hols. ∑ pendletonroundup.com
presents the are a tribute to Native 8 Pendleton Underground Tours
most dramatic American tribes, is now 37 SW Emigrant Ave. Tel (541)
landscapes: the big business in town. 276-0730. Open 10am–4pm Mon &
volcanic rock The mill wove its first Wed–Sat. Closed major hols. &
formations are Indian trade blanket = ∑ pendletonunderground
vivid hues of red, in 1895. Native tours.org
pink, bronze, tan, Americans used these E Tamástslikt Cultural Institute
and black. Clarno blankets not only as 47106 Wildhorse Blvd. Tel (541) 966-
contains some standard clothing items 9748. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat.
of the oldest but also in ceremonies and Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
formations, dating trade among each other, where & - = 7 ∑ tamastslikt.org
back 54 million years the blankets were used as a
and including some measure of value and credit. Environs
of the finest fossil Cowboy lore continues The town of La Grande, 52 miles
plant remains on earth. to come alive during the (84 km) southeast of Pendleton,
At Sheep Rock, where Pendleton Round-Up each is best known as the jumping-
formations date from Entelodont skull and September, when off point for trips into the scenic
16 million to 6 million forelimb fossils rodeo performers wilds of the Blue and Wallowa
years ago, the visitors’ and some 50,000 Mountains and Hells Canyon
center displays many spectators crowd into town. (see pp116–19).
important finds from the beds. Previous rodeos are honored In downtown La Grande,
The fossil beds are named in in the photographs and other charming turn-of-the-19th-
honor of John Day, a fur trader memorabilia at the Pendleton century buildings now house
from Virginia who arrived in Round-Up and Happy Canyon shops and cafés.
Oregon in 1812 and for whom Hall of Fame Museum.
the John Day River is named, The Pendleton Underground
though Day himself apparently Tours reveal much about the
never actually set foot near town’s notoriety. The tours
the beds. begin in an underground
labyrinth of opium dens,
gaming rooms, and Prohibition-
c Pendleton era drinking establishments
and include stops at the
Road map 1 C3. * 17,300.
n 501 S Main St, (541) 276-7411. Cozy Room bordello and the
∑ travelpendleton.com cramped 19th-century living
quarters of Chinese laborers.
Pendleton is the largest town Another chapter of local
in eastern Oregon, and it has an history is commemorated at the
outsized reputation for raucous Tamástslikt Cultural Institute.
cowboys and lawless cattle Re-creations of historic
rustlers to match. Visitors may structures and handsome A tule mat lodge at the Tamástslikt
be disappointed to learn, exhibits of war bonnets and Cultural Institute
US_PNW_114-115_Cat1.indd 115 04/07/16 12:34 pm
116 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
v Elkhorn Drive National Scenic Byway Tour Tips for Drivers
This drive through a mountain range takes in some of the Tour length: 83 miles (134 km).
finest scenery in eastern Oregon. To the west, the route Starting point: Baker City.
climbs across the Elkhorn Range of the Blue Mountains, When to go: Summer and
autumn. Snow often forces road
where dense pine forests interspersed with crystal-clear closures until July.
lakes give way to historic gold-mining towns. To the east, Stopping-off points: Baker City’s
seen across Baker Valley, rise the snowcapped summits Geiser Grand Hotel (see p287)
of the spectacular Wallowa mountain range. makes a fine dining stop. There
are also several picnic sites along
the route.
6 Anthony Lakes 5 Granite
A string of mountain When pioneer gold-mining days
lakes sparkle amid forests came to a close, the town of
of ponderosa pines. Granite changed from a
In winter, skiers and boomtown into a ghost town.
snowmobile enthusiasts La Grande
glide across this hilly
terrain on deep powder. Haines
ELKHORN DRIVE NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAY
Blue
Mountains NORTH FORK JOHN DAY
Elkhorn Range
Mount Ireland
Key
Tour route
Other road
Sumpter
•
John Day McEwen
Powder River
Phillips Reservoir
4 Sumpter Valley Dredge
This massive dredge once
dug its way across the valley
floor in search of gold.
The hulking wood and
steel beast is now the
centerpiece of a unique 0 kilometers 8
heritage site. 0 miles 5
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_116-117_SS_TourMap.indd 116 04/07/16 12:34 pm
OREGON 117
b Joseph
Tips for Drivers Road map 1 C3. * 1,100. n 201
E 2nd St, (541) 426-5546.
Tour length: 83 miles (134 km).
Starting point: Baker City. Joseph is named for Chief
When to go: Summer and Joseph, leader of the Nez Perce
autumn. Snow often forces road people (see p31). In 1877, he
closures until July. led his tribe on a 1,800-mile
Stopping-off points: Baker City’s (2,880-km) flight to resist
Geiser Grand Hotel (see p287) resettlement from their lands
makes a fine dining stop. There in the Wallowas; they were
are also several picnic sites along
the route. apprehended near the Canadian
border and relocated to a Motorboat moored on the blue waters
reservation in Washington State. of Wallowa Lake
The brick storefronts, snow-
capped Wallowa Mountains, n Wallowa Lake
and outlying grasslands lend Road map 1 C3.
Joseph a frontier-town air still.
These days, though, recreation The crystal-clear waters of this
enthusiasts outnumber ranchers, long glacial lake sparkle at
La Grande and artisans, particularly the foot of the Wallowa
1 National Historic Oregon sculptors, have established Mountains, which form a
Trail Interpretive Center galleries. Housed in the historic 10,000-ft- (3,050-m-) high,
Haines Here, replicas of pioneer former location of a 40-mile- (64-km-) long wall
scenes, accompanied by newspaper office, of granite. Though the lake
the sounds of jangling hospital, and became a popular tourist
oxen, re-create life on bank built in retreat in the early
the Oregon Trail. 1888, the 20th century, the
Wallowa forested shore line
County is remarkably
Wallowa Mountains
Museum, unspoiled. Much
devoted to of it falls with in
Chief Joseph’s Bronze horse sculpture in Joseph the boundaries of
famous retreat, is national forest lands
here. Chief Joseph Days, held in and Wallowa Lake State Park.
July, feature a rodeo and carnival. One of the few commercial
Hells Canyon Other festivals include the structures on the lake is
Baker City Annual Arts Festival and the Wallowa Lake Lodge, a
Wallowa Mountain Quilt Show, beautifully restored log building
both in June. dating from the 1920s. It still
provides accommodation and
E Wallowa County Museum meals. The popular Wallowa
2 Baker City 110 S Main St. Tel (541) 432-6095. Lake Tramway whisks riders
Some rather grand Open Memorial Day–3rd weekend up 3,700 ft (1,100 m) to the
downtown blocks Sep: 10am–5pm daily. & summit of Mount Howard,
and fine Victorian ∑ co.wallowa.or.us/museum where spectacular views of the
residences are lake below and the Wallowa
reminders of the fame Mountains can be enjoyed.
and prosperity that Deep wilderness is only a
gold mining once short hike or pack trip away
brought to this now from the lake in the Eagle Cap
quiet ranching town. Wilderness, which climbs and
dips over mountainous terrain
to the west of the lake.
Y Wallowa Lake State Park
3 Sumpter Valley Railway 6 miles (10 km) S of Joseph off Hwy
A narrow-gauge steam train 82. Tel (541) 432-4185. Open dawn–
once again chugs along a dusk daily. ∑ oregonstateparks.org
historic route originally built J Wallowa Lake Tramway
to haul lumber and gold. 59919 Wallowa Lake Hwy, Joseph.
Hawks and other wildlife Tel (541) 432-5331.
usually provide an escort. Restored historic corner building in Open mid-May–Sep. &
Joseph, Oregon ∑ wallowalaketramway.com
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_116-117_SS_TourMap.indd 117 04/07/16 12:34 pm
118 P A CIFIC NOR THWEST REGION B Y REGION
m Hells Canyon National
Recreation Area Tour
Some of the wildest terrain in North America clings to the
sides of craggy, 9,400-ft (2,865-m) peaks at Hells Canyon and
plunges to the famed basin far below, where the Snake River Salmon River
rushes through North America’s deepest river-carved gorge.
Visitors are awed by the massive canyon walls rising 7,993 ft
(2,436 m) and delight in the dense upland pine forests and
delicate flower-covered alpine meadows – 1,019 sq miles
(2,641 sq km) in all. Much of the terrain is too rugged to Hells Canyon National Recreation
Area viewpoint
cross, even on foot, making sections of the Snake River J
accessible only by boat. Many visitors settle for the stunning
views from several lookouts, and not one is disappointed.
Imnaha
1 Buckhorn Lookout
One of several spectacular overlooks in the Hells Canyon area, this remote spot offers
superb views of the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest and the Imnaha River canyon.
Joseph Imnaha River Road
Big Sheep Creek
2 Nee-Me-Poo Trail
Hikers on this national trail
follow in the footsteps of
Chief Joseph and 700 Nez
Perce Indians who, in 1877,
embarked on an 1,800-mile
(2,880-km) trek toward
freedom in Canada (see p31). J
Big Bar
6 Hells Canyon
Reservoir
Formed by Oxbow Dam
to the south and Hells
Canyon Dam to the
north, this 25-mile- Copperfield
(40-km-) long reservoir North Pine Creek
is part of a huge power- Oxbow Dam
generating complex on
the Snake River. A private
road along the east shore
provides boaters with
access to the river. Baker City
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8
US_PNW_118-119_HellsCanyon.indd 118 04/07/16 12:38 pm
OREGON 119
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 214 miles (345 km),
including all turnoffs.
Starting point: Oregon SR 350,
8 miles (13 km) east of Joseph.
Salmon River only. Some roads are not suitable
When to go: Summer months
for every type of vehicle. For
information, call the area’s Visitor
Center at (541) 426-5546.
Stopping-off points: Picnic
areas are abundant. Imnaha
3 Imnaha River offers restaurants and lodging.
A road from the town of Imnaha
follows this frothy river through a
J
pine-scented valley, passing
isolated ranches and a fish weir
where Chinook salmon
can be seen swimming Key
upstream on their
Pittsburg annual migration from Tour route
Landing
the distant Pacific Ocean. Other road
4 Hat Point Road
Snake River A dizzying drive up a steep
Imnaha 23-mile (37-km) gravel road
leads to Hat Point, which is 0 kilometers 18
located at an altitude of 0 miles 14
7,000 ft (2,100 m).
J
Imnaha River Road Seven Devils
Mountains
Big Sheep Creek
Hells
Canyon
Dam
5 Wild and Scenic River
J
A 31.5-mile (50.5-km)
Big Bar stretch of the Snake River,
from Hells Canyon Dam to
Upper Pittsburg Landing,
is designated a Wild River.
Experienced guides pilot
rafters over the many
North Pine Creek Copperfield midsummer temperatures
stretches of rapids. Searing
Oxbow Dam
and inhospitable terrain,
as well as rattlesnakes and
an occasional patch of
poison ivy, make an
overland trek alongside the
Baker City A boat negotiating rapids on a trip on the Snake River river more challenging.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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US_PNW_120-121_SeattleOpen.indd 120 04/07/2014 17:19
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
Seattle
Introducing Seattle 122–123
Pioneer Square
and Downtown 124–133
Pike Place Market
and the Waterfront 134–143
Seattle Center
and Belltown 144–153
Farther Afield 154–163
US_PNW_120-121_SeattleOpen.indd 121 04/07/2014 17:19
122 INTRODUCING SEA T TLE
Seattle at a Glance
Seattle’s history, commerce, and quality of life are closely
tied to its waterfront location on Puget Sound. The
Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park recalls the
city’s pivotal role as an embarkation point for the Gold
Rush of 1897–8. The Seattle Aquarium explores Puget EMP Museum
Sound’s diverse natural habitat. Embracing both the This museum is dedicated to the
history and exploration of music
past and the future, Seattle’s architectural icons include and science fiction (see pp150–51).
a number of historic buildings, the once-futuristic Space
Needle, and the provocative EMP Museum.
SEATTLE CENTER
AND BELLTOWN 5TH AVE NORTH
(See pp144–53) AURORA AVE NORTH
ELLIOTT AVENUE
DENNY WAY
BROAD STREET 2ND AVENUE
Space Needle 4TH AVENUE
Built for the 1962 World’s Fair, the 605-ft (184-m)
Space Needle is Seattle’s official landmark. A 41-second
elevator ride whisks visitors to the observation deck
and a 360-degree view (see pp148–9). PIKE STREET
PIKE PLACE
MARKET AND
THE WATERFRONT
(See pp134–43)
Olympic Sculpture Park MADISON STREET
Following a radical makeover, this former
industrial area has now been converted into
a well-designed green space that offers great 2ND AVENUE
views. Art installations and sculptures, such JAMES STREET
as Eagle by Alexander Calder, are displayed
outdoors around the waterfront park by
the Seattle Art Museum (see p148).
0 meters 400
0 yards 400
PIONEER SQUARE
AND DOWNTOWN
(See pp124–33)
1ST AVENUE SOUTH
ALASKAN WAY VIADUCT
Seattle Aquarium
Offering a window into Pacific
Northwest marine life, this
popular aquar ium has an
underwater glass dome which
surrounds visitors with sharks,
salmon, octopus, and many
other creatures (see pp142–3).
Seattle and Mount Rainier at sunset
US_PNW_122-123_FlashMap.indd 122 04/07/16 12:34 pm
SEA T TLE A T A GLANCE 123
Benaroya Hall
Home of the Seattle Symphony, this $118
million complex occupies an entire city block.
Its S. Mark Taper Foundation Auditorium is
internationally acclaimed for its superior
SEATTLE CENTER acoustics (see p133).
AND BELLTOWN 5TH AVE NORTH Fairmont Olympic
(See pp144–53) AURORA AVE NORTH
Hotel
This stately hotel is
listed on the National
ELLIOTT AVENUE
Register of Historic
Places (see p132).
DENNY WAY
BROAD STREET 2ND AVENUE
Seattle Art Museum
An acclaimed expansion has vastly
4TH AVENUE
increased exhibition space for this
museum’s 23,000 works of art, ranging
from ancient Egyptian reliefs to
contemporary American
PIKE STREET installations (see pp132–3).
PIKE PLACE
Smith Tower
MARKET AND Once the world’s tallest
THE WATERFRONT
(See pp134–43) office building outside of
New York City, this
MADISON STREET 42-story tower boasts the
last manually operated
elevators of their kind on
JAMES STREET the West Coast (see p128).
2ND AVENUE
PIONEER SQUARE
AND DOWNTOWN
(See pp124–33)
1ST AVENUE SOUTH
ALASKAN WAY VIADUCT
Klondike Gold Rush
National Historical Park
Pike Place Market This indoor park located in
Dating from 1907, one of the oldest the Pioneer Square Historic
farmer’s markets in the country is District celebrates Seattle’s
a beloved Seattle landmark and a role in North America’s last
National Historic District (see p138). great Gold Rush (see p129).
US_PNW_122-123_FlashMap.indd 123 04/07/16 12:34 pm
US_PNW_124-125_PioneerSq.indd 124 04/07/16 12:34 pm
SEA T TLE 125
PIONEER SQUARE AND
DOWNTOWN
The birthplace of Seattle, Pioneer prestigious business address. Today, the
Square was the city’s original downtown, revitalized Pioneer Square – a National
established in 1852 when Arthur and David Historic District – is a thriving arts center,
Denny arrived with a handful of fellow with First Thursday gallery walks and venues
pioneers. Emerging from the ashes of the for author readings. A short walk leads to
Great Fire of 1889, the rebuilt commercial downtown – home to the city’s modern
area prospered as the 19th century drew to skyscrapers, upscale shops, and luxury
a close. By the time the much-touted Smith hotels, as well as green spaces such as
Tower opened in 1914, however, the city Freeway Park. Lending cultural panache
core had begun spreading north and is the boldly designed Seattle Art Museum
Pioneer Square was less and less a and the state-of-the-art Benaroya Hall.
Sights at a Glance
Buildings and Shops
1 Smith Tower 9TH AVENUE
2 Pioneer Building OLIVE WAY 8TH AVENUE
7 Columbia Center
8 Fairmont Olympic Convention
Hotel Seattle Place
0 Benaroya Hall STEWART WAY Monorail
Terminal
w Central Westlake 7TH AVENUE See also Street Finder maps
Library PINE STREET 5TH AVENUE 6TH AVENUE 3 and 4
Museums
9 Seattle PIKE STREET UNION STREET
Art Museum FREEWAY
PARK
Parks and Districts 3RD AVENUE
2ND AVENUE
3 Waterfall
4TH AVENUE
Garden Park UNIVERSITY STREET 0 meters 400
4 Occidental University SENECA STREET 0 yards 400
Square Street
5 Klondike Gold SPRING STREET
Rush National 7TH AVENUE
Historical Park 1ST AVENUE MADISON STREET
6 International District
q Freeway Park 3RD AVENUE
MARION STREET COLUMBIA STREET 6TH AVENUE
CHERRY STREET
2ND AVENUE
Pioneer JAMES STREET INTERSTATE 5 INTERSTATE 5
Square
5TH AVENUE
YESLER WAY
OCCIDENTAL SOUTH WASHINGTON STREET
PARK 5TH AVENUE SOUTH 6TH AVENUE SOUTH
SOUTH MAIN STREET
SOUTH JACKSON STREET
2ND AVENUE
King Street
Station Union
SOUTH KING STREET Station SOUTH KING STREET
ALASKAN WAY
SOUTH WELLER STREET
International 7TH AVENUE SOUTH 8TH AVENUE SOUTH
District
ALASKA N WAY VIADUCT
SOUTH LANE STREET
1ST AVENUE SOUTH
4TH AVE SOUTH
3RD AVE SOUTH
SOUTH DEARBORN STREET
The Pioneer Building, in the heart of Pioneer Square For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_124-125_PioneerSq.indd 125 04/07/16 12:34 pm
126 SEA T TLE
Street-by-Street: SEATTLE CENTER &
BELLTOWN
Pioneer Square
Pioneer Square, Seattle’s first downtown and later a decrepit PIKE PLACE
MARKET & THE
skid row, is today a revitalized business neighborhood and WATERFRONT
National Historic District. The tall totem poles gracing the
square are reminders of the Coast Salish Indian village that PIONEER SQUARE &
DOWNTOWN
originally occupied this spot. The grand Victorian architecture, Locator Map
social service missions, and upscale shops that line the See Street Finder map 4
bustling streets and cobblestone plazas are further reminders
of the area’s checkered past and redevelopment since the
1960s. Many of the buildings standing today were constructed
in the years between the Great Fire of 1889 and the Klondike
Gold Rush of 1897–8, both pivotal events in Seattle’s history.
While the buildings look much as they did a century ago, their
tenants have changed dramatically. Where saloons, brothels,
and mining company headquarters once flourished, art
galleries, boutiques, and antique shops now reside.
Y E S L E R W A Y
4 Occidental Square
The Fallen Firefighters’ Memorial in this square
consists of four life-sized bronze statues
designed and sculpted by Hai Ying Wu in
1998, as a tribute to Seattle’s firefighters
who have died in the line of duty. A L A S K A N W A Y V I A D U C T
1 S T A V E N U E S O U T H J A C K S O N S T R E E T
Key
Suggested route S O U T H K I N G S T R E E T
International District
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_126-127_PioneerSq2.indd 126 04/07/16 12:38 pm
PIONEER SQU ARE AND DOWNT OWN 127
Pioneer Square 2 . Pioneer Building
This small triangular park is Completed in 1892 in the Romanesque Revival style, this building
graced with a Tlingit totem pole. faces onto Pioneer Square. Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour (see
A bust of Chief Seattle looms p128) starts from here.
above the fountain.
Downtown
Y E S L E R W A Y 2 N D A V E N U E
S O U T H W A S H I N G T O N S T R E E T
The Smith Tower, an imposing
terracotta building and Seattle
landmark, is named after typewriter
tycoon Lyman C. Smith, who
commissioned the building in 1914.
S O U T H M A I N S T R E E T
Occidental Square
S O U T H J A C K S O N S T R E E T
5 . Klondike Gold Rush
National Historical Park
This park, devoted to the story
of North America’s last great
Gold Rush, has historical
photographs such as this one,
Occidental Walk depicting prospectors arriving
in Seattle.
US_PNW_126-127_PioneerSq2.indd 127 04/07/16 12:38 pm
128 SEA T TLE
1 Smith Tower Underground Tour. This
90-minute walk offers a lively
506 2nd Ave. Map 4 D3.
Tel (206) 622-4004. @ 39, 42, 136, look at Seattle’s colorful past
137. Observation deck: Open 10am– and the original streets beneath
dusk daily. Closed Easter, Thanks- the modern city, including
giving, Dec 25. & to observation the 1890s stores abandoned
deck. 7 except observation deck. in the 1900s when engineers
8 for groups. ∑ smithtower.com raised streets. Beware: the
subterranean portion is
When it opened in 1914, the musty and dusty.
42-story Smith Tower was
heralded as the tallest office 3 Waterfall
building in the world outside
New York City and for nearly Garden Park
a half century it reigned as the 219 2nd Ave S. Map 4 D3.
tallest building west of Chicago. Tel (206) 624-6096. @ 15, 18, 21, 22,
Commissioned by rifle and 56. Open 9am–3pm daily.
typewriter tycoon Lyman Decorative brass elevator doors of the
Cornelius Smith, Seattle’s first 1914 Smith Tower A peaceful, secluded oasis in the
skyscraper is clad in white terra- middle of busy Pioneer Square,
cotta. While its height – 489 ft 2 Pioneer Building this little park is the perfect
(149 m) from the curbside to 600 1st Ave. Map 4 D3. @ 15, 18, place to relax and enjoy a picnic.
the top of the tower finial – is 21, 22. Underground Tour: Tel (206) The sounds of the man-made
no longer its claim to fame, the 682-4646. & 8 call for hours waterfall cascading over huge
city’s landmark does boast the and reserva tions. ∑ pioneer- rocks soften any street noise.
last manually operated elevator building.com There are several tables and
of its kind on the West Coast. chairs set out around the
For a fee, you can ride one Completed in 1892, three years waterfall, some in the shade
of the gleaming brass-cage after the Great Fire flattened and some catching the few
originals to the 35th-floor the core business dis trict, the rays of sun that peer through
Observatory. The carved wood Pioneer Building was voted the the Japanese maples.
and porcelain-inlay ceiling and “finest building west of Chicago” The park was designed by
the ornate blackwood furniture by the American Institute of Masao Kinoshita and built in
adorning this banquet room Architects. It is one of more than 1977 by the Annie E. Casey
were gifts to Smith from the 50 buildings designed by Elmer Foundation to honor the
last empress of China. The deck Fisher (see p152) following the workers of the United Parcel
here offers panoramic views devastating fire of 1889. Still Service (UPS). Jim Casey of
of Mount Rainier, the Olympic imposing without its tower, Seattle was one of the founders
and Cascade mountain ranges, destroyed in a 1949 earthquake, of UPS, which was originally
and Elliott Bay. the brick building houses offices formed as the American
The onyx and marble lobby, and Doc Maynard’s Saloon, Messenger Service in a
which has been restored to its starting point of Bill Speidel’s saloon at this site in 1907.
former glamor, is presided over
by 22 carved chieftains.
The Great Seattle Fire
On June 6, 1889, in a cabinet shop near Pioneer Square, a pot of flaming
glue overturned, igniting wood shavings. The tide, which the city’s
water system depended on, was low at the time, and as numerous
hoses were connected to the hydrants, the water pressure dropped
and the water supply eventually gave out. The fire spread rapidly,
engulfing 60 city blocks before burning itself out. Miraculously, no
one died in the blaze, and
it came to be seen as a
blessing in disguise. Sturdy
brick and stone buildings
were erected where flimsy
wood structures once stood;
streets were widened
and raised; and the sewer
system was overhauled.
From the ashes of disaster
rose a city primed for
prominence as the 20th The aftermath of the Great Seattle Fire of 1889,
The stately Smith Tower, once the tallest century approached. devastating to a city built of wood
building outside New York
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_128-129_GoldRushCat.indd 128 04/07/16 12:34 pm
PIONEER SQU ARE AND DOWNT OWN 129
4 Occidental
Square
Occidental Ave between S Main & S
Jackson Sts. Map 4 D3. @ 15, 18, 21,
22, 56.
The brick-paved plaza known
as Occidental Square offers
relief from the busy traffic of
Pioneer Square. The tree-lined
pedestrian walk is flanked by
upscale shops, galleries, and
coffeehouses, many housed in Exhibit at the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
attractive Victorian buildings.
Across South Main Street as 100,000 gold-seekers from 6 International
is Occidental Park, where the around the world rushed to the District
ambience changes considerably Klondike to find their fortunes.
because of the local contingent The largest and closest US East of 6th Ave S, south of Yesler Way.
of homeless people and city to the gold fields, Seattle Map 4 E4. @ 7, 14, 36. Wing Luke
panhandlers. Of special note became the primary outfitting Museum of the Asian Pacific American
here are four cedar totem and embarkation point for the Experience: 719 South King St.
poles carved by Northwest stampede north. Tens of thou- Tel (206) 623-5124. Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun. Closed major hols. & 8
artist Duane Pasco and the sands of miners passed through ∑ wingluke.org
Fallen Firefighters’ Memorial, the city, purchasing $25 million
a moving tribute to the 34 worth of food, clothing, equip- Located southeast of Pioneer
Seattle firefighters who have ment, pack animals, and Square, the International
died in the line of duty since steamship tickets. While few District was settled by Asian-
the Seattle Fire Department Klondikers struck it rich during Americans in the late 19th
was founded in 1889. the Gold Rush of 1897–8, Seattle century. This bustling area still
merchants made a fortune and serves as the cultural hub for
established the city’s reputation the city’s Chinese, Japanese,
as the premier commercial Filipino, Vietnamese, Korean,
center of the Pacific Northwest. and Laotian residents.
Established by Congress in In addition to its fine ethnic
1976, Klondike Gold Rush restaurants, the area is home
National Historical Park com prises to Uwajimaya (600 5th Avenue
five units – three in Canada, one South), the largest Asian market
in Skagway, Alaska, and one in in the Pacific Northwest. The
Seattle’s Pioneer Square Historic Wing Luke Museum of the
District. Housed in the restored Asian Pacific American
Hotel Cadillac building, the Experience, a Smithsonian
Seattle visitors’ center celebrates affiliate, is named after the
the city’s role in North America’s first Asian Pacific American
last great Gold Rush. On display elected to office in the Pacific
here are evocative black- Northwest. It high lights the
and-white photographs history, culture, and art of
and simulations of the “ton of Asian Pacific Americans.
The striking cedar totem poles in Pioneer provisions” that Canadian law
Square’s Occidental Park required each prospector to
bring with him, including
5 Klondike Gold 350 lb (160 kg) of flour and 150 lb
(68 kg) of bacon. Personable park
Rush National rangers staff the center, offering
Historical Park insights into this fascinating
period in American history.
319 2nd Ave S. Map 4 D3. Tel (206) The park offers an expanded
220-4240. @ 15, 18, 21, 22, 56. program in the summer.
Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Activities include ranger-led
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 ∑ nps.gov
walking tours of Pioneer Square,
In 1895, gold was discovered in gold-panning demonstrations,
a tributary of the Klondike River, and scheduled screenings of
in the middle of the Canadian Gold Rush-themed films. (These
Yukon wilderness. This discovery films are shown at other times Items for sale at Uwajimaya, in Seattle’s
triggered a frenzied stampede, of the year by request.) International District
US_PNW_128-129_GoldRushCat.indd 129 04/07/16 12:34 pm
US_PNW_130-131_DPS-Photo.indd 126 04/07/2014 17:17
US_PNW_130-131_DPS-Photo.indd 127 04/07/2014 17:17
132 SEA T TLE
8 Fairmont
Olympic Hotel
411 University St. Map 4 D1.
Tel (206) 621-1700. @ 17, 19, 24, 26,
28. 7 0 = See Where to Stay
p288. ∑ fairmont.com
When it debuted in 1924,
the Olympic Hotel was the
place to see and be seen –
not surprising since the
bondholders who funded the
$4 million construction were
among the city’s most socially
prominent citizens. Designed
by the New York firm of George The striking modern façade of the Seattle
B. Post and Sons, the Italian Art Museum
Renaissance-style building
features high, arched Palladian 9 Seattle
windows, gleaming oak- Art Museum
The tall Columbia Center, dwarfing the paneled walls, and terrazzo
Smith Tower floors laid by Italian workmen 1300 First Ave. Map 3 C2.
who were sent to Seattle for Tel (206) 654-3100. @ 174.
7 Columbia Center the task. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun
More than $800,000 was (to 9pm Thu). Closed major hols.
701 5th Ave. Map 4 D2. Tel (206) ^ 7 8 9 - =
386-5564. @ 16, 358. Sky View spent on furnishings, including ∑ seattleartmuseum.org
Observatory: Open Mar–Aug: 9am– hundreds of antique mirrors,
10pm daily; Sep–Feb: 10am–8pm Italian and Spanish oil jars, and At the museum’s south entrance
daily. Closed public hols. & 7 - bronze statuary. A glamorous is a giant Hammering Man.
∑ skyviewobservatory.com venue for parties, weddings, A tribute to workers, Jonathan
and debutante balls, the Borofsky’s 48-ft (15-m) animated
The tallest building in Seattle, Olympic reigned as the grande steel sculpture “hammers”
Columbia Center is the tallest dame of Seattle hotels for half a silently and continuously
building – according to the century before losing her luster. from 7am to 10pm daily,
number of stories – west of the In 1979, the hotel was listed resting only on Labor Day.
Mississippi River. Rising 1,049 ft on the US National Register The museum building is no
(320 m) above sea level, the of Historic Places. A year later, less impressive. Designed by
1.5-million-sq-ft (139,500-sq-m), the Four Seasons hotel chain the Philadelphia firm Venturi
76-story skyscraper was designed assumed management of the Scott Brown and Associates,
by Chester Lindsey Architects building and gave the hotel the original bold limestone
and completed in 1985 at a cost a $62.5 million face-lift – the and sandstone building was
of $285 million. In 1998 it was most costly hotel restoration in completed in 1991 at a cost
sold for $404 million, and again the US at that time – returning of $62 million. An acclaimed
in 2015 for $711 million, to a the landmark hotel to her expansion in 2007, designed
Hong Kong company. original grandeur. Fairmont by Brad Cloepfil, doubled
A prestigious business address Hotels and Resorts assumed the museum’s public and
for more than 5,000 Seattle-area management in 2003. exhibition space.
workers, the shimmering black
tower also attracts visitors to
its 73rd-floor observation deck,
the Sky View Observatory, which
offers spectacular vistas of the
Cascade and Olympic mountain
ranges, Mount Rainier, Lake
Washington, and Puget Sound,
as well as views of the city and
its many suburbs.
The four-level retail atrium
houses shops, food vendors,
and, on the third floor, the City
Space art gallery, which features
the works of artists who have
been commissioned for projects
by the city. The opulent interior of the Fairmont Olympic Hotel
Iron Pergola on Pioneer Square
US_PNW_132-133_Catalog2.indd 132 04/07/16 12:39 pm
PIONEER SQU ARE AND DOWNT OWN 133
The museum’s permanent
collection includes 25,000
objects ranging from ancient
Egyptian relief sculpture and
wooden African statuary to
Old Master paintings and
contemporary American art.
Traveling exhibits are featured
on the fourth floor, as are the
permanent collections of African
and European art. Northwest
Coast Native American art
figures prominently on the third Benaroya Hall, grand home of the Seattle Symphony
floor. Highlights here include the
14-ft- (4-m-) tall red-cedar Native superior acoustics. The multi- shady footpaths invite leisurely
houseposts carved with bears level Grand Lobby, dramatic at strolling. Outdoor concerts are
and thunderbirds boasting 11-ft night when lit, offers stunning held here in summer.
(3.5-m) wing spans, from the views of Puget Sound and the
village of Gwa’yas-dams in British city skyline.
Columbia. The third floor also Even if time doesn’t permit w Central Library
houses American art, ancient attending a symphony perform- 1000 Fourth Ave. Map 4 D2. Tel (206)
mediterranean and Islamic art, ance, visitors can gain an 386-4636. @ many. Open 10am–8pm
and modern and contemporary appreciation of this magnificent Mon–Thu, 10am–6pm Fri & Sat, noon–
art, including works by contem- facility by taking one of the 6pm Sun. Closed public hols. 8 7
porary Pacific Northwest artists. excellent tours offered, learning - = ∑ spl.org
Also in this museum family how this acoustical masterpiece
is the Asian Art Museum, in was created atop a transit tunnel. This striking glass and steel
Volunteer Park (see p157), Visitors can also admire Benaroya structure, completed in 2004,
hous ing extensive Asian art Hall’s impressive private art was designed by the award-
collec tions. The Seattle Art collection, which includes Echo, winning Dutch architect Rem
Museum’s third venue is the Robert Rauschenberg’s evocative Koolhaas as a replacement for
Olympic Sculpture Park (see p148), 12-ft (3.5-m) mural, painted on the city’s 1960 Central Library.
an outdoor “museum” on the metal, and Dale Chihuly’s pair The unusual shape of the
north end of Seattle’s waterfront. of chandelier sculptures – one building was once a source
silver-, one gold-colored – each of controversy, but the Central
with some 1,200 pieces of blown Library is now regarded as one of
glass wired to a steel armature. Seattle’s architectural highlights.
Within the hall’s outdoor The 11-floor library includes
space along 2nd Avenue is works of art worth a staggering
the Garden of Remembrance, $1 million and an innovative
which honors more than 8,000 “Books Spiral,” allowing visitors
Washington citizens who have maximum access to the
given their lives in the service collection. In its first year, some
of their country since 1941. 5,000 people visited the library
every day to benefit from its
2 million items. Other facilities
q Freeway Park include Internet access, 340
computers for public use, and
Seneca St & 6th Ave. Map 4 D1. @ 2,
Dale Chihuly’s Benaroya Hall Silver 13. Open 6am–10pm daily. 7 separate centers for children,
Chandelier, one of a pair ∑ seattle.gov/parks teenagers, and adult readers.
0 Benaroya Hall Tucked into the heart
of Seattle’s bustling
200 University St. Map 3 C1. Tel (206)
215-4800. @ many. 8 check commercial district,
website for details. ^ 7 - = and adjoining the
∑ seattlesymphony.org Washington State
Convention and Trade
Home of the Seattle Symphony Center, Freeway Park
and occupying an entire city straddles the I-5,
block, the $118.1 million Benaroya which runs through
Hall contains two performing downtown. Inside
halls, including the 2,500-seat the park, thundering
S. Mark Taper Foundation waterfalls drown out Seattle’s strikingly modern Central Library, designed
Auditorium, acclaimed for its the traffic roar, and by Rem Koolhaas
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_132-133_Catalog2.indd 133 04/07/16 12:39 pm
Pier 67
LENORA STREET
STREET
Pier 66 VIRGINIA STEWART WAY 2ND AVENUE
Pier 63 A L A S K A N W AY WESTERN AVENUE PINE STREET
PIKE STREET
Pier 62
PIKE PLACE
UNION ST
Pier 59
1ST AVENUE
UNIVERSITY ST
Pier 57
SENECA ST
WESTERN AVENUE
Pier 56
SPRING ST
Pier 55
MADISON ST
Pier 54
MARION ST
COLUMBIA ST
Washington State
Ferries Terminal
Pier 52/53
STATE ROUTE 99 ALASKAN WAY VIADUCT
US_PNW_134-135_AreaOpener.indd 134 04/07/16 12:34 pm
SEA T TLE 135
PIKE PLACE MARKET AND
THE WATERFRONT
Situated above the shores of Elliott and fine seafood restaurants. Marine
Bay, Seattle’s Pike Place Market is both a activity abounds, as this working water front
venerable landmark and a veritable feast is the departure point for ferries, cruise
for the senses. Exuberant and engaging, ships, and harbor tour boats. The Bell
this National Historic District is known as Street Pier Cruise Terminal (Pier 66) is
much for its colorful personalities as it is home to restaurants, a pleasure craft
for its abundance of local produce. Pike marina, and a cruise ship terminal, while
Street Hillclimb, a system of stairs and at Pier 59, the Seattle Aquarium showcases
elevators, connects the market to Seattle’s Pacific Northwest marine life. Nearby,
bustling waterfront, with its briny scents, The Seattle Great Wheel on Pier 57 offers
squawking seagulls, fish and chip joints, fantastic views of the city.
Sights at a Glance
Attractions 4 Starbucks® Pike Place Piers
6 Seattle Aquarium pp142–3 9 Ye Olde Curiosity Shop 5 Pier 66
8 The Seattle Great Wheel Ferry Terminal
Shops, Markets, and 0 Washington State 0 meters 300
Restaurants Ferries Terminal 0 yards 300
1 Pike Place Market Parks
2 Athenian Inn 7 Waterfront Park
3 Post Alley
Pier 67
LENORA STREET
STREET
Pier 66 VIRGINIA STEWART WAY 2ND AVENUE
Pier 63 A L A S K A N W AY WESTERN AVENUE PINE STREET
PIKE STREET
PIKE PLACE
Pier 62
UNION ST
Pier 59
1ST AVENUE
UNIVERSITY ST
Pier 57
SENECA ST
WESTERN AVENUE
Pier 56
SPRING ST
Pier 55
MADISON ST
Pier 54
MARION ST
COLUMBIA ST
Washington State
Ferries Terminal
See also Street Finder map 3 Pier 52/53
Bell Harbor Marina at Pier 66, with the skyscrapers of downtown in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
STATE ROUTE 99 ALASKAN WAY VIADUCT
US_PNW_134-135_AreaOpener.indd 135 04/07/16 12:34 pm
136 SEA T TLE
Street-by-Street: Pike Place Market
Pike Place Market is said to be the soul of Seattle. Established
in 1907, it is one of the oldest continuously operating farmer’s
markets in the US. Over the years, the market has mirrored
national waves of immigration, with new arrivals from
countries including Mexico, Laos, and the Philippines
flocking here to set up small businesses. Bustling with some
100 farmers, 200 artists and craftspeople, engaging street 3 . Post Alley
performers, and 500 residents, the district contains art This pedestrian walkway is lined
with specialty shops, restaurants,
galleries, ethnic and specialty groceries, bistros, and an and pubs. Its sister, Lower Post
eclectic mix of shops. P O S T A L L E Y Alley, is home to similar businesses.
P I K E P L A C E
Key P I K E P L A C E W E S T E R N A V E N U E
Suggested route
Waterfront
0 meters 40
0 yards 50
4 Starbucks®
Pike Place
This building, a
former feed store,
is the site of the
first Starbucks®
coffee shop, which
moved here from
its original Western
Avenue location
in 1976. The
Starbucks® sign in
the window sports 2 Athenian Inn
the chain’s original This historic restaurant in Pike Place
logo depicting Market is as well-known for its appearance
a bare-breasted in the Tom Hanks movie Sleepless in Seattle
siren, based on as it is for its seafood and diner-style
a 16th-century sandwiches, which can be enjoyed while
Norse woodcut. sitting at a booth overlooking Elliott Bay.
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_136-137_PikePlaceMkt.indd 136 04/07/16 2:50 pm
PIKE PLA CE M ARKE T AND THE W A TERFRONT 137
SEATTLE CENTER &
BELLTOWN
PIONEER
SQUARE &
DOWN-
TOWN
PIKE PLACE MARKET &
THE WATERFRONT
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 3
Market sign and clock, c.1937, one of Seattle’s oldest neon signs
Newsstand
There are several
newsstands in and around
Pike Place Market, offering
a wide range of US and
international publications.
Downtown
P I K E S T R E E T F I R S T A V E N U E
P I K E P L A C E
W E S T E R N A V E N U E
. Rachel
Rachel, an enormous piggy bank, stands at the . Pike Place Fish
main entrance to Pike Place Market. Sculpted by Fish-flinging fishmongers are a
Pacific Northwest artist Georgia Gerber, it collects long-standing tradition at this Pike
funds for low-income families. Place Market store.
US_PNW_136-137_PikePlaceMkt.indd 137 04/07/16 12:39 pm
138 SEA T TLE
1 Pike Place Market
Bounded by Pike & Virginia Sts, from
1st to Western Aves. Map 3 C1.
Tel (206) 682-7453. @ 15, 18.
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat,
11am–5pm Sun; may vary.
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
7 8 Market Heritage Tour:
Call for details: (206) 322-2219.
∑ pikeplacemarket.org
The heart of Pike Place Market
is the Main Arcade (1914) and
the adjacent North Arcade
(1922). Here, low metal-topped
counters display freshly picked A wide selection of fish on display at Pike Place Fish, in the Main Arcade
seasonal fruit, vegetables,
herbs, and flowers grown The Wet Row, with access to It is, however, certainly the best
by local farmers. Shoppers running water, was also closest known. Situated beneath the
at these low stalls get to “meet to the exposed arcade entrance market’s landmark clock, this
the producer,” as promised by and thus the damp weather. busy stall always draws a crowd,
the market’s signature green Today, craftspeople sell from thanks to the loud, lively banter
sign. Each morning, the Market the dry tables and farmers and high-spirited antics of its
Master, whose role at the from the wet tables, the run-off fishmongers, who are amazingly
market dates back to 1911, still being channeled along adept at tossing fish over the
does roll call, assigning stalls a trough. High stalls leased by heads of cheering spectators
to farmers and craftspeople commercial greengrocers on a to co-workers behind the shop’s
based on seniority. This often permanent basis are also to be counter. The repartee is as fresh
results in vendors selling their found in the Main Arcade. Both as the seafood, which ranges
wares from a different stall each imported and locally grown from wild king salmon and
day. Originally, the North Arcade produce are on offer here. Dungeness crab to rainbow
consisted of two “rows.” The Dry Pike Place Fish, located in the trout and live clams. Should
Row, along the west wall, had Main Arcade, is not Pike Place tourists care to buy, Pike Place
no access to running water. Market’s only seafood vendor. Fish will ship their seafood home.
To the south of the arcades
The History of Pike Place Market is the Economy Market,
a 1907 structure which was
Hungry for fresh produce and fair prices, Seattleites mobbed Pike incorporated into the market
Place Market when it opened on August 17, 1907, at Pike Street in 1916, and where, among
and 1st Avenue, as an effort by the city council to eliminate “greedy other things, day-old goods
middlemen” and allow farmers to sell directly to the public. Sensing were sold at a discount.
opportunity, local Frank Goodwin used his Klondike gold to build
permanent arcades. At its height in the 1930s, hundreds of farmers
sold their produce at the market. But by World War II, it had fallen on
hard times: Japanese-Americans made up about 80 percent of the
sellers at the wet tables; their internment (see p44) had a disastrous
effect. In the years that followed, the decline continued as suburbs
and super-markets became entrenched in the American way of life.
By the late 1960s,
developers were
lobbying to tear
it down. Rallied
by architect
Victor Steinbrueck,
Seattleites rebelled,
voting in 1971 to
make the market a
historic district. Today,
over 80 farmers from
across the state sell
at the market and
its four neighbor-
Local farmers selling their produce at Pike Place Market, hood markets in
May 1912 downtown Seattle. One of many stands displaying artwork
at the market
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_138-139_Catalog1.indd 138 04/07/16 12:34 pm
PIKE PLA CE M ARKE T AND THE W A TERFRONT 139
Across Pike Street are the Bainbridge Island; and ferries refute. To see where the coffee
Corner Market (1912) and skimming across the bay. craze started, visit Starbucks®
Sanitary Market (1910) – two of If the inn seems oddly Pike Place, the first shop in
the several buildings constructed familiar, that may be because the omnipresent chain.
during the market’s first two of its supporting role in the Opened in 1971, at 2000
decades as it prospered, and 1993 movie Sleepless in Seattle. Western Avenue, Starbucks®
so named because horse-drawn Coffee, Tea and Spices moved
carts were not allowed inside. to its Pike Place location in 1976.
Today all three market buildings 3 Post Alley Named after the first mate in
house retail shops, restaurants, Stewart to Virginia Sts between Pike Pl Herman Melville’s Moby Dick,
and cafés. & 1st Ave. Map 3 B1. @ 15, 18. 7 the company’s first logo – a
Pike Place Market will volup tu ous two-tailed mermaid
undergo a major expansion, Post Alley has a decidedly encircled by the original
termed Market Front, in 2017, European ambience. Along this name – still greets visitors
which will add a public plaza brick-paved passageway are at this small store.
and a path to the waterfront. two of the city’s favorite haunts. In the early days, Starbucks®
The Pink Door (1919 Post Alley) did not sell coffee by the cup;
( Pike Place Fish is an Italian trattoria identified the focus was on whole-bean
Pike Place Market (Main Arcade). only by an unmarked pink door. coffee. Occasionally, they
Tel 1 (800) 542-7732. Open 6:30am– Come summer, the restaurant’s offered tasting samples in
6pm Mon–Sat, 7am–5pm Sun. 7 terrace, with its impressive porcelain cups, creating loyal
∑ pikeplacefish.com harbor view, is popular with customers by educating them
locals – and tourists who on the finer points of quality
happily stumble upon the coffee. In 1985, inspired by
elusive restaurant. Across the Italian coffeehouses, Starbucks®
alley, Kell’s Irish Restaurant and served its first caffè latte, made
Pub (1916 Post Alley) pours with espresso and steamed
Guinness and offers live Celtic milk. Today, visitors to the flag-
music in cozy surroundings. ship store can choose from a
Above the shops of long list of coffee drinks,
Post Alley are condo- as can the millions of
miniums and apart- customers around the
ments, many housing world. Indeed, more
The entrance to the Athenian Inn in Pike the market’s some than 80 million cust-
Place Market 500 residents, several omers visit Starbucks®
of whom are low- each week.
2 Athenian Inn income seniors. In 2014, Starbucks®
1517 Pike Pl (Main Arcade). The original Starbucks® introduced the
Map 3 C1. Tel (206) 624-7166. 4 Starbucks® sign, at its first location fascinating, one-of-
@ 15, 18. Open 6:30am–8:30pm Pike Place its-kind Starbucks
Mon–Thu, 6:30am–9:30pm Fri & Sat, Reserve® Roastery & Tasting
9am–4:30pm Sun. 7 1st floor only. 1912 Pike Pl. Map 3 B1. Tel (206) 448- Room (1124 Pike St; 6:30am–
8762. @ 15, 18. Open 6am–7:30pm 11pm daily; http://roastery.
The Athenian Inn has been in Mon–Fri, 6:30am–7:30pm Sat & Sun. starbucks.com). This
operation nearly as long as the 7 ∑ starbucks.com 15,600-sq-ft (1,449-sq-m)
market itself. Opened by three expanse includes roasting
brothers in 1909, it evolved from Seattle is said to be the most facilities, coffee bars, shops,
a bakery and luncheonette to caffeinated city in the US, a a restaurant, and a library,
a tavern and, later, a restau rant. distinction Seattleites don’t spread over two floors.
It was, in 1933, one of the first
restaurants in Seattle to get a
liquor license. Neither flashy nor
fancy, this diner serves old-time
favorites like corned beef hash,
with generous helpings of local
color. However, the best reason
to visit the Athenian Inn is not
for the food but for the view
of Elliott Bay. Nab one of the
wooden booths at the back of
the restaurant and you will see
the Duwamish waterway, with
its impressive container-ship
loading facility; West Seattle; The interior of Starbucks® Pike Place
US_PNW_138-139_Catalog1.indd 139 04/07/16 12:34 pm
140 SEA T TLE
5 Pier 66 operational again. The route
has been replaced by metro
Bell St Pier Cruise Terminal, Pier 66,
Alaskan Way. Map 3 A1. @ 15, 18, 21, bus route 99. The buses
22, 56, 99. ∑ portseattle.org have been made to look
like streetcars.
One of the liveliest parts of the
waterfront is the Port of Seattle’s
Pier 66, also known as Bell Street 8 The Seattle
Pier Cruise Terminal. It is home Great Wheel
to a thriving luxury cruise ship
terminal, a pleasure craft Pier 57, 1301 Alaskan Way. Map 3 B2.
marina, a conference center, Tel (206) 623-8607. @ 15, 18, 21, 22,
and a handful of eateries. 56, 99. Open Jul–Sep: 10am–11pm
There is a constant hub of Sun–Thu, 10am–midnight Fri & Sat;
Sep–Jun: 11am–10pm Mon–Thu,
activity, with Bell Street Pier 11am–midnight Fri, 10am–midnight
Cruise Terminal and Smith Cove Sat, 10am–10pm Sun. & 7
Terminal (at Pier 91, north of ∑ seattlegreatwheel.com
downtown) together greeting
more than 200 cruise ships A lovely sunny day at Seattle’s The Seattle Great Wheel,
every year, most of which are Waterfront Park perched dramatically over
bound for Alaska’s stunning Elliott Bay, offers spectacular
Inside Passage (see pp278–9). is composed of a number of views of the city skyline and the
Pier 66 is also home to the Bell cubical structures. At its south Olympic Mountains. Built in less
Harbor Marina, a small in-city end is a large abstract statue of than a year, it opened in 2012.
marina for pleasure boats. Christopher Columbus gazing Standing 175-ft (53-m) tall,
For spectacular views of the out across the water. Other The Seattle Great Wheel is the
moored boats here, visitors can interesting sculptures, as well largest observation wheel on
gaze out from Bell Street Pier as coin-operated telescopes, the West Coast. Visitors can get
Cruise Terminal’s rooftop plaza. picnic tables, and benches, a ride lasting up to 20 minutes
On and around the pier is are dotted around the park. in 41 fully enclosed, climate-
a variety of restaurants, from The Waterfront Streetcar, controlled gondolas, each of
take-out fish and chips to more officially known as the George which can carry up to eight
comfortable and relaxed dining Benson Waterfront Streetcar passengers. There is a special
(see pp298–300). Line, began in 1982 and was VIP gondola as well, with leather
the first streetcar to run in bucket seats, a stereo system,
Seattle since 1941. It used and a glass bottom floor, that
6 Seattle Aquarium to be a great way to see can seat up to four people.
Seattle’s best attractions Each ride is accompanied
See pp142–3.
but was suspended in 2005, by a narration of Seattle’s
when the maintenance barn waterfront history.
and one of the stations were The Ferris wheel is lit up
7 Waterfront Park demolished to make room each night with white lights.
for the Seattle Art Museum’s For certain events, such as
Pier 57–59, 1301 Alaskan Way.
Map 3 B1. Tel (206) 684-4075. Olympic Sculpture Park (see Seattle Seahawks home
@ 15, 18, 21. Park: Open 6am–10pm p148). The track and other football matches, and on
daily. 7 ∑ seattle.gov/parks eight stations remain, but it is holidays, a special light
unclear whether it will ever be show is held on the wheel.
The Waterfront Park
com prises the area
between Pier 57
and Pier 59. The park
offers excellent views
of the Seattle skyline
and the waterfront,
and visitors have
even been known
to spot a seal. At
the north end of the
park is The Waterfront
Fountain, by James
FitzGerald and Terry
Copple. Made of
casted and welded
bronze, the sculpture The Seattle Great Wheel, extending over Puget Sound on Seattle’s waterfront
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_140-141_Catalog2.indd 140 04/07/16 12:34 pm
PIKE PLA CE M ARKE T AND THE W A TERFRONT 141
0 Washington hub for ships bound for the
State Ferries northern gold fields during
Terminal the gold rushes of the 1890s.
In 1908, Colman extended the
Sign for Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, a Seattle Pier 52, 801 Alaskan Way. Map 3 C2. dock, adding a domed waiting
institution since 1899 @ 15, 18, 21, 22, 56. Ferry schedules: room and a clock tower. The
Tel (206) 464-6400 (recording). 7 elegant tower toppled four
9 Ye Olde ∑ wsdot.wa.gov/ferries years later when the ocean liner
Curiosity Shop Alameda rammed the pier. The
Both a highly efficient transit tower’s replacement met with
Pier 54, 1001 Alaskan Way. Map 3 C2. system and a top tourist similar misfortune when it was
Tel (206) 682-5844. @ 15, 18, 21, 22, attraction, Washington State scorched in a 1914 pier fire.
56, 57. Open 10am–6pm Sun–Thu, ferries transport 23 million Although not as archi-
9am–9pm Fri & Sat. Closed Jan 1, residents and travelers a year. tecturally interesting as its
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 Seattle’s main terminal is predecessors, the present
∑ yeoldecuriosityshop.com
Colman Dock, located on terminal, which was built in
The quintessential curio shop, the waterfront at the foot of 1964, does an admirable job
this Seattle institution has Columbia Street. The dock will accommodating the many
been a fixture of the city’s be undergoing a long-term passengers traveling to
waterfront since 1899. Among restoration and redevelopment Bremerton and Bainbridge
the legendary curiosities are project from 2017. Island. The terminal also serves
shrunken heads, a “freak pig” The original wharf was foot passengers traveling to
with two tails, two faces, three built in 1882 by Scottish Vashon Island.
eyes, and eight legs, a walrus engineer James Colman to A popular tourist activity
skull with three tusks, and three accommodate steamships. is the 35-minute ferry ride
well-preserved mummies that Destroyed seven years later to Winslow on Bainbridge
were discovered in the Arizona in the Great Seattle Fire (see Island, where galleries, shops,
desert a century ago, including p128), it was immediately restaurants, and a waterfront
the much-talked about rebuilt to service Puget Sound’s park are all within walking
“Sylvester.” Oddities, both “mosquito fleet” of private distance of the ferry dock,
old and new, include The ferries. It was also a bustling making for a pleasant day trip.
Lord’s Prayer and oil paintings
engraved on the heads of pins. Ivar’s Acres of Clams
But there is much more to
this tightly packed store than A waterfront landmark since 1938,
quirky curios and unusual the seafood restaurant Ivar’s Acres
souvenirs. From its first days of of Clams on Pier 54 was founded
business, this waterfront shop by Seattle-born Ivar Haglund
has been a Native American (1905–85), a radio and television
trading post. Today, the arts personality and self-promoter.
Eighteen years before opening
and crafts of the region’s Native his popular restaurant, Haglund
Americans are sold through established Seattle’s first
the store, which has also aquarium, also on Pier 54,
provided a number of private scooping the “exhibits” out of
collections and prestigious Puget Sound himself. Wearing his
museums, including the trademark captain’s hat, Haglund
Smithsonian Institution in entertained visitors by singing
Washington, DC, with Native songs he had written about
American art and artifacts. his favorite sea critters. The
Joseph Edward Standley aquarium’s other attraction was
of Ohio started this family-run a fish-and-chips counter across
shop in 1899 – reportedly from the seal cage. It was the seed Hungry visitors and seagulls – all are
earning only 25 cents in the for Haglund’s foray into the food- welcome at Ivar’s
first three days. Fortunately, service business, an enterprise
that grew to include three restaurants, nearly 30 fish bars throughout
Standley persevered, and in the Pacific Northwest, and Ivar’s own brand of clam chowder. Known
1909 he sold his ethnological for his silly puns (“Keep Clam” remains the company motto) and
collection, which had garnered frequent publicity stunts (he once hoisted a 16-ft/5-m salmon
a gold medal at Seattle’s World windsock to the flagpole atop stately Smith Tower), Haglund was –
Fair that year, to New York’s and remains – a colorful Seattle icon. Two months after his death in
Museum of the American Indian 1985, the city celebrated his 80th birthday with a boat parade in Elliott
for $5,000, establishing the shop Bay. And each Independence Day, as Seattleites watch the lavish
with collectors. Nowadays, “Fourth of Jul-Ivar’s” fireworks display over the bay, they remember
this well-stocked shop is run with fondness the “firecracker” who started the tradition back in 1964.
by Standley’s great-grandson.
US_PNW_140-141_Catalog2.indd 141 04/07/16 12:34 pm
142 SEA T TLE
6 Seattle Aquarium
One of the top aquariums in the country, the Seattle
Aquarium offers a fascinating window into Pacific
Northwest marine life, showcasing more than
400 different species of fish, plants, and mammals
indigenous to the area. Sea otters and seals cavort
in pools, and feeding time is especially entertaining.
Visitors can also learn about the aquarium’s ecological
and conservation work with the local environment, and
even meet the wildlife in one of the interactive exhibits.
Encountering local sea creatures in the Life on
the Edge exhibit
. Window on Washington Waters
This 120,000-gallon (454,250-liter) tank
is populated with brightly colored fish,
anemones, and others. Three times a day,
divers take to the water and talk back and
forth with the audience.
Mezzanine
Level
Key
Window on Washington Waters and
Crashing Waves
Life of a Drifter and Life on the Edge
Pacific Coral Reef and Ocean Oddities
Birds and Shores, Alcids and Salmon Ladder
Marine Mammals
Main Entrance
Puget Sound Orcas and Underwater Marine
Mammal Viewing
Underwater Dome
Puget Sound Fish
Non-exhibition space
Aquarium Guide
The Seattle Aquarium is laid out on three
levels. The ground floor houses the majority
of the exhibits, while the lower level features
an underwater dome that allows visitors to
see some of the exhibits from underwater.
Visitor facilities, including a café, are on the
mezzanine level. Caring for two of Seattle Aquarium’s plentiful seal population
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_142-143_SeattleAqu.indd 142 04/07/16 12:34 pm
PIKE PLA CE M ARKE T AND THE W A TERFRONT 143
Birds and Shores
Learn how local seabirds make VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
their homes in inhospitable
conditions. Birds, including this Practical Information
tufted puffin and common Pier 59, 1483 Alaskan Way.
murres, can be seen nesting, Map 3 B1. Tel (206) 386-4300.
foraging, and more. Open 9:30am–5pm daily; 9:30am–
3pm some public hols. Closed
First Fri in Jun, Dec 25. & 7 -
= ∑ seattleaquarium.org
Transport
@ 15, 18, 21, 22, 56, 99.
. Marine Mammals
This popular attraction features the antics of
the aquarium’s sea otters, harbor seals, and fur
seals. Visitors can also see these mammals in
an underwater viewing area on the lower level.
. Underwater Dome
Travel through a short tunnel to this stunning
undersea dome, which offers a panoramic
view from inside a 400,000-gallon (1,500,000-
liter) tank housing rockfish, small sharks,
salmon, lingcod, sturgeon, and many others.
Lower Level
Puget Sound Fish
Packed with bright, exotic fish such
as this canary rockfish, Pacific spiny
lumpsuckers, and midshipmen fish,
Puget Sound Fish is a great chance
for kids to snap some colorful photos.
US_PNW_142-143_SeattleAqu.indd 143 04/07/16 12:34 pm
US_PNW_144-145_SeattleCtr.indd 144 04/07/16 12:34 pm
SEA T TLE 145
SEATTLE CENTER
AND BELLTOWN
Located north of downtown, Seattle Center Allen (see p163). Just to the south of
is the proud legacy of the city’s 1962 World’s Seattle Center lies trendy Belltown, its
Fair. Best known to tourists as the home hub stretching from Virginia to Vine Streets
of the Space Needle, the center boasts along 1st Avenue. Here, among the pricey
numerous cultural venues and excellent condominiums, visitors will find high-end
museums, including the innovative EMP hair salons, upscale clothing boutiques,
Museum, designed by architect Frank Gehry antique shops, home accessories stores,
and funded by Microsoft billionaire Paul trendy restaurants, and a fashionable crowd.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Theaters Buildings Other Attractions
1 Olympic Sculpture Park 3 Space Needle 4 Chihuly Garden and Glass
2 Pacific Science Center and Boeing 7 KeyArena 5 Seattle Center Monorail
Imax Theater 9 Austin A. Bell Building
6 EMP Museum pp150–51 0 Virginia Inn
8 The Children’s Museum
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
See also Street Finder maps
1, 2, and 3
ROY STREET
MERCER STREET MERCER STREET
WEST REPUBLICAN STREET REPUBLICAN STREET AURORA AVENUE NORTH
WEST HARRISON STREET QUEEN ANNE AVENUE NOR TH 1ST AVENUE NORTH Seattle DEXTER AVENUE NORTH
Monorail BROAD STREET
Terminal
WEST THOMAS ST THOMAS STREET
ELLIOTT AVENUE
MYRTLE WEST JOHN ST WARREN AVE NORTH 2ND AVENUE NORTH 5TH AVENUE NORTH JOHN STREET
EDWARDS
PARK DENNY
PARK
DENNY WAY Westlake & 9th
EAGLE STREET 2ND AVENUE 4TH AVENUE 5TH AVENUE 8TH AVENUE
Elliott CLAY STREET 3RD AVENUE 9TH AVENUE
Bay BROAD STREET CEDAR ST VINE ST 6TH AVENUE WESTLAKE AVENUE
7TH AVENUE
WALL STREET BATTERY STREET Westlake Westlake
& 7th
1ST AVENUE
Greyhound
Pier 70 ELLIOTT AVENUE BELL STREET & 7th Bus Terminal
WESTERN AVENUE
Pier 69 ALASKAN WAY BLANCHARD STREET OLIVE WAY
Pier 67 1ST AVENUE Westlake Hub
VIRGINIA STREET
LENORA STREET 4TH AVENUE
STEWART STREET
Part of the innovative façade of the EMP Museum INTERSTATE 99
For keys to symbols see back flap
US_PNW_144-145_SeattleCtr.indd 145 04/07/16 12:34 pm
146 SEA T TLE
Street-by-Street: Seattle Center
The Seattle Center grounds have long been a lively gathering spot for city residents
and visitors. In the 1800s, this prized parcel of land was the setting for Indian potlatches.
In 1962, it was transformed into a fairground for the World’s Fair – Century 21 Exposition
(see p149). Today, the site is one of the most visited urban parks in the US. Strolling the
pedestrian boulevards, you’ll see several legacies of the World’s Fair.
Among the most notable and noticeable is the Space Needle, which
now shares the spotlight with such innovative structures as the
EMP Museum. Performing arts companies, sports teams, and a
children’s museum all call Seattle Center home.
Marion Oliver
McCaw Hall is
home to the
Seattle Opera
and Pacific
NW Ballet.
M E R C E R S T R E E T
International Fountain
A mainstay of the 1962 World’s
Fair, redesigned in 1995,
this fountain features
274 water shooters and
propels 9,000 gallons
(34,000 liters) of water
up to 120 ft (37 m).
Seattle Repertory Theatre
“The Rep” presents both
contemporary and classic
plays on its two stages: the
Bagley Wright Theatre and
the Leo K. Theatre.
1 ST A VENUE NOR TH
Key
Suggested route
7 KeyArena
Now a sports and concert
venue, the arena was
built in 1962 for Seattle’s 0 meters 50
second World’s Fair. 0 yards 50
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_146-147_SeattleCtr.indd 146 04/07/16 12:34 pm
SEA T TLE CENTER AND BELL T OWN 147
SEATTLE CENTER &
BELLTOWN
PIKE PLACE MARKET &
THE WATERFRONT PIONEER SQUARE &
DOWNTOWN
Locator Map
Downtown See Street Finder map 1
3 . Space Needle
The once futuristic Space 4 Chihuly Garden and Glass
Needle is a prominent A gallery and garden that exhibits Dale
feature of Seattle’s skyline. Chihuly’s stunning, colorful glassworks.
2 Pacific Science Center
B R O A D S T R E E T
Interactive exhibits devoted
to science, mathematics, and
technology; two IMAX theaters;
and a planetarium are
housed in the center’s
six buildings.
D E N N Y W A Y
W
6 . EMP Museum
E
S
This exceptional museum situated at the
T
base of the Space Needle was designed
T
by the architect Frank Gehry.
H
O
M
A
S
S T
Fisher Pavilion, facing the South
R
E
Fountain Lawn, is a popular venue for
E
T
trade shows and festivals.
1 ST A VENUE NOR TH
Key
Suggested route 5 . Seattle Center Monorail
The Seattle Center Monorail
travels directly through EMP
Museum before it enters the
Seattle Center Station. Each
train has traveled over one
million miles (1.6 million km) since
being put into service in 1962.
US_PNW_146-147_SeattleCtr.indd 147 04/07/16 12:34 pm
148 SEA T TLE
1 Olympic 2 Pacific Science
Sculpture Park Center and Boeing
IMAX Theater
2901 Western Ave. Map 1 B5. Tel (206)
654-3100. Seattle Center. @ 1, 2, 200 2nd Ave N. Map 1 B4.
13, 15, 18, 99. Open dawn–dusk daily. Tel (206) 443-2001. Seattle Center.
PACCAR Pavilion: Mar 1–Oct 31: @ 19, 24, 33. Open 10am–6pm daily
10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov 1–Feb 28: (to 5pm Mon–Fri in fall); IMAX open
10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 0 8 7 daily, call (206) 443-4629 for films
∑ seattleartmuseum.org and showtimes. Closed Thanksgiving,
Dec 25. & additional charge for laser
Opened to the public in January & IMAX shows and the planetarium.
2007 as part of the Seattle Art 7 ∑ pacificsciencecenter.org
Museum (see pp132–3), the
Olympic Sculpture Park sits on The Pacific Science Center
what used to be an industrial features four exhibit halls and
site, now transformed into a two IMAX theaters surrounding
unique green space for public five 110-ft (33.5-m) arches that
recreation and outdoor art. The rise over reflecting pools and
innovative design for the park fountains. While enjoyed
included environmental by all ages, the science and
restoration schemes such as math exhibits are especially
the creation of a salmon habitat appealing to kids.
and tree planting. Dinosaurs: A Journey Through The magnificent Space Needle, the pride
The park is made up of three Time takes visitors back to the of Seattle
areas linked by a 2,200-ft (670-m), Mesozoic Era to meet lifelike
Z-shaped path. Visitors can see robotic dinosaurs. In Body 3 Space Needle
over 20 modern sculptures Works visitors can pedal on 400 Broad St. Map 1 C4. Tel (206) 905-
scattered throughout a variety the Calorie Bicycle to see how 2100. Seattle Center. @ 3, 4, 16.
of typical Pacific Northwest land- much energy they produce, and Open 10am–9:30pm Mon–Thu,
scapes such as The Valley, an in Tech Zone they can challenge 9:30am–10:30pm Fri–Sun (to 9:30pm
evergreen forest similar to those an industrial robot to games Sun). 7 0 ∑ spaceneedle.com
found in the lowland coastal of tic-tac-toe. Also popular
regions, Schubert Sonata, sculptor with youngsters and adults What started as a rough sketch
Mark di Suvero’s towering steel alike is the imaginative world on the back of a paper placemat
wind vane, and The Shore, which of Professor Wellbody’s has become Seattle’s inter nation-
features a beach and a naturally Academy of Health & Wellness®. ally recognized landmark and
developing tidal garden. This innovative health exhibit number one tourist attraction.
The PACCAR Pavilion is the uses games, activities, and Built for the 1962 World’s Fair,
park headquarters. It houses other interactive experiences the 605-ft (185-m) Space Needle
a car park and a café where to highlight the importance was the brainchild of Edward
visitors can buy food for of diet, exercise, sleep, lifestyle, Carlson, the fair’s chairman,
picnics. Guided tours of the and hygiene for personal who was inspired by Germany’s
park are also available starting well-being. Insect Village Stuttgart Tower. The final design
from the Pavilion. features huge robotic insects by John Graham and Company,
and a mini-zoo where brave architects of the first shopping
visitors can touch a cockroach. mall in the US, was approved
The Tropical Butterfly House just 18 months before the fair’s
is filled with exotic free-flying opening date; the Space Needle
butterflies. Outside, visitors can was built in 12 months, for
spin a 2-ton granite ball or ride a relatively inexpensive $4.5
the High Rail Bicycle perched million. At the time, it was
15 ft (4.5 m) above the ground the tallest building west of
on a 1-inch (2.5-cm) rail. the Mississippi River.
The Center also houses a Supported by three curved
planetarium, laser theater, the steel legs, the needle’s glass-
PACCAR IMAX Theater, and the enclosed tophouse features
futuristic Boeing IMAX Theater. an observation deck and, below
The latter has laser projectors and it, a revolving restaurant – the
a cutting-edge sound system, second in the world – which
and shows documentaries is turned by a one-and-a-half-
on the natural world, space horsepower motor.
exploration, and a variety of The underground foundation,
Perre’s Ventaglio III, one of the pieces in the children’s films, 2D and 3D buried 30 ft (9 m) deep and
Olympic Sculpture Park feature films, and animations. stretching 120 ft (37 m) wide,
For hotels and restaurants see p288 and pp298–300
US_PNW_148-149_Catalog1.indd 148 04/07/16 12:34 pm
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