(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Naples & The Amalfi Coast

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP


NAPLES





& THE AMALFI COAST




JEFFREY KENNEDY
















































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Top 10 Naples and The Top 10
the Amalfi Coast of Everything
Highlights


Welcome to Naples Moments in History .....................42
and the Amalfi Coast .................5 Artists and their
Exploring Naples Masterpieces ............................44
and the Amalfi Coast .................6 Icons of Popular Culture .............46
Naples and the Amalfi Coast Museums and Galleries ..............48
Highlights ..................................10 Churches in Naples .....................50
Palazzo Reale, Naples .................12 Piazzas and Fountains .................52
Castel Nuovo, Naples ..................14 Walks ............................................54
Duomo, Naples ............................16 Beaches ........................................58
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Romantic Spots ............................60
Naples .......................................18
Capodimonte, Naples ..................22 Off the Beaten Track ....................62
Certosa di San Martino ................26 Children’s Attractions ..................64
Pompeii and Herculaneum .........30 Neapolitan Dishes ........................66
Capri .............................................34 Neapolitan Souvenirs ..................68
Amalfi, Ravello and Positano ......36 Naples and the
Amalfi Coast for Free ...............70
Paestum ...................................... 38
Religious Celebrations ................72
















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CONTENTS



















Naples and the Streetsmart
Amalfi Coast
Area by Area


Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ....76 Getting To and Around Naples
Toledo to Chiaia ............................86 and the Amalfi Coast .............118
Vesuvius and Around ...................94 Practical Information .................120
The Islands, Sorrento Places to Stay .............................126
and the South .........................100
Posillipo, Pozzuoli General Index .............................134
and the North .........................110 Acknowledgments .....................140
Phrase Book ...............................142




The information in this DK Eyewitness Top
10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy material on third party websites, and cannot
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in guarantee that any website address in this
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
Front cover and spine The Santa Maria suggestions of our readers very highly. Please
Assunta church in Positano write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
Back cover Church San Francesco di Paola Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London
in Naples WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
Title page View of the coastline from Villa [email protected]
Rufolo, Ravello




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Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Naples and


the Amalfi Coast





From the vibrant streets of the city to sun-kissed beaches,
dramatic cliff-hugging roads, ancient temples and island
paradises, Naples and the Amalfi Coast is a hive of historical,
cultural and natural beauty. With Eyewitness Top 10 Naples
and the Amalfi Coast, the region is yours to explore.

It’s hard not to fall in love with this region: the colours, the history,
the beauty. What could be better than watching the sun setting
across the Bay of Naples from the Castel dell’Ovo, uncovering
historical treasures at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, devouring
a Neapolitan pizza hot from the oven, seeing the pastel-coloured
cascade of homes in Positano or sipping a limoncello in Amalfi?
It’s all here, packed into an unforgettably beautiful landscape.

Be sure to take time during your stay to explore the cultural and
artistic treasures that lie just moments from the coast. Step back
in time at the ancient towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum or visit
the best-preserved Greek temples in the world at Paestum. Escape
to the island of Capri for spectacular natural beauty and to soak in
the warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea, or get lost amidst the
grandeur of the Reggia di Caserta. With so much to see and do,
this is one of Italy’s most diverse and seductive areas to discover.

Whether you’re here for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide has
all you’ll need to experience everything the region has to offer, from
the lively streets of Spaccanapoli to the panoramic vistas of Ravello.
With travel tips throughout the guide, along with five itineraries,
detailed maps and inspiring photography, this is the essential
pocket-sized travel companion for your journey. Enjoy the book,
and enjoy Naples and the Amalfi Coast.



Clockwise from top: Procida Island; Spaccanapoli, Naples; Villa Cimbrone, Ravello;
bird’s-eye view of Amalfi; fresco inside Villa dei Misteri, Pompeii; Blue Grotto, Capri;
Temple of Hera, Paestum






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast

Exploring Naples and
the Amalfi Coast Capodimonte
Museum
One of Italy’s most vibrantly diverse
regions, Naples and the Amalfi
Coast offer a wealth of artistic 0 metres 500
treasures, culture and natural 0 yards 500
beauty to discover. Here are
some ideas to make the most
of your stay, from an intensive
weekend break in Naples to a
wide-ranging week itinerary
of the area.
From
Museo Herculaneum
Two Days in Naples Archeologico
Nazionale
Museo Duomo
Day 1 Metro Station
MORNING
Start in the heart of Royal METRO
Naples (see pp86–9) at the Sansevero
grandiose Piazza del Chapel
Plebiscito. Visit the Palazzo
Reale (see pp12–13),
climb the ramparts of
the Castel Nuovo (see Santa Chiara
pp14–15), imagine the
sparkling lights at SPACCANAPOLI
Teatro San Carlo (see METRO
p89) and stroll through Castel Sant’Elmo,
Certosa di
the Galleria Umberto I San Martino
(see p88). Stop for lunch Galleria Municipio
at Brandi, known as the Umberto I Metro
birthplace of Neapolitan
Teatro
pizza (see p93). San Carlo
AFTERNOON Castel Nuovo
Revel in the vibrant Brandi
atmosphere of Spaccanapoli Palazzo Mount
(see pp76–9) and see the Piazza del Reale Naples Vesuvius
impressive Duomo (see pp16– Plebiscito Spaccanapoli Herculaneum
17), majolica-tiled cloister of cuts a pathway Pompeii
through the
Santa Chiara (see p77) and heart of Naples.
“Veiled Christ” statue at the Gulf of
Sansevero Chapel (see p79). Naples
Monti Lattari Ravello Salerno
Castel
Day 2 dell’Ovo Borgo Sorrento Positano
MORNING Marinari Amalfi Gulf of
Step back in time at the fascinating Salerno
Roman ruins of Pompeii (see pp30– Anacapri P i a n a d e l S e l e
31) or Herculaneum (see pp32–3). Capri
Then climb to the top of Mount Key 0 km 5
Vesuvius (see p95) for an unfor- Two-day itinerary 0 miles 5
gettable view of the Bay of Naples. Seven-day itinerary Paestum




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Exploring Naples and the Amalfi Coast ❮❮ 7



Day 4
If desired, transfer your base to the
Capodimonte
Museum Amalfi Coast and explore Amalfi (see
pp36–7), with its impressive Cathedral
of St Andrew and fascinating Museo
della Carta. High in the mountains
0 metres 500 above Amalfi, visit the peaceful town
0 yards 500 of Ravello for its fine gardens and
views (see pp36–7).
Day 5
Clinging to the hillside, Positano is a Enjoy a drive along the Amalfi Coast
stunning backdrop to the sandy beach. road from Sorrento (see p102) to
Salerno (see p102), or take a ferry to
AFTERNOON soak up the sun in Positano, known
From Return to Naples to see the ancient as the “Vertical City” (see pp36–7).
Museo Herculaneum
Archeologico treasures at the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale Nazionale (see pp18–21) – closed Day 6
Museo Duomo Tuesdays. Enjoy dinner in the Take the ferry to Capri (see pp34–5)
Metro Station romantic Borgo Marinari surrounded where highlights include the famous
METRO by fishing boats and the Castel Blue Grotto, spectacular views from
dell’Ovo (see p88).
Monte Solaro in Anacapri, the
Sansevero picturesque Marina Piccola and
Chapel shopping in Capri Town.
Seven Days in Naples
and the Amalfi Coast Day 7
Discover the ancient Greek ruins of
Santa Chiara Days 1 and 2 Paestum (see pp38–9) and visit the
As Two Days in Naples. excellent museum on site here.
SPACCANAPOLI
Day 3
METRO
Castel Sant’Elmo, Head to Naples’ highest district
Certosa di to visit the Certosa di San Martino
San Martino
Galleria Municipio (pp26–9) and Castel Sant’Elmo
Umberto I Metro (see p89). Art lovers won’t want to
miss the Capodimonte Museum
Teatro
San Carlo (see pp22–3) – closed Wednesdays.
Castel Nuovo
Brandi
Mount
Palazzo Vesuvius
Piazza del Reale Naples
Plebiscito Herculaneum The Greco-Roman site of
Pompeii Paestum contains the
fascinating remains of
Gulf of three ancient Greek
Naples temples.
Monti Lattari Ravello Salerno
Castel
dell’Ovo Borgo Sorrento Positano
Marinari Amalfi Gulf of
Salerno
Anacapri P i a n a d e l S e l e
Capri 0 km 5
0 miles 5
Paestum



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Top 10 Naples and

the Amalfi Coast


Highlights








Ruins of the Roman forum, Pompeii,
backed by Mount Vesuvius















































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Naples and the Amalfi Coast Capodimonte, Naples 22
Highlights 10
Certosa di San Martino 26
Palazzo Reale, Naples 12
Pompeii and Herculaneum 30
Castel Nuovo, Naples 14
Capri 34
Duomo, Naples 16
Amalfi, Ravello and Positano 36
Museo Archeologico Nazionale,
Naples 18 Paestum 38






















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Naples and the V IA CAP ODIMO N TE
V IA CAP ODIMO N TE
Amalfi Coast Highlights MADRE LANDI CAPODIMONTE
PIAZZALE
PIAZZALE
MADRE LANDI
CAPODIMONTE
AND
AND
I VERGINI
I VERGINI
This area is an anomaly – one of the earth’s most beautiful and
yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the wealthy
as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the
greatest natural disasters. Naples itself is a vibrant urban VIA SANITÀ
VIA SANITÀ
setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the VICO DELLA C. A. DI SAVOIA DUCA D’AOSTA C. A. DI SAVOIA DUCA D’AOSTA 0 metr 500 500
VICO DELLA
0 metreses
beauty of the coast has been known to make men weep. CALCE CALCE VIA DEI CRISTALLINI 0 yar 0 yardsds 500 500
Palazzo Reale VIA DEI CRISTALLINI VIA DUOMO
PIAZZA CAVOUR
VIA FORIA
With its commanding PIAZZA CAVOUR VIA FORIA
position near the bay, the Royal V. SALVATOR ROSA
V. SALVATOR ROSA
VIA DUOMO
Palace dominates the grandest DECUMANO
DECUMANO
MAGGIORE
part of the city (see pp12–13). MAGGIORE V
Castel Nuovo SALITA PONTEC ORVO PIAZZA PIAZZA A DEI TRIBUNALI VIA DUOMO
BELLINI VI
BELLINI
VIA DEI TRIBUNALI IA DU
Despite its bulky towers of VIA VIA PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA SAN BIAGIO DEI LIBRAI
SALITA PONTEC ORVO
volcanic stone, this Renaissance VENTAGLIERI DANTE DANTE VIA SAN BIAGIO DEI LIBRAI OMO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
V. B. CROCE
castle also features one of the V. B. CROCE N. AMORE
VENTAGLIERI
N. AMORE
most graceful archway SPACCANAPOLI
CORSO UMBERTO I
SPACCANAPOLI
V. PASQUALE
entrances of the period, V. PASQUALE CORSO UMBERTO I
SCURA
SCURA
VIA NUOVA MARINA
carved in the purest white PIAZZA V. MONTEOLIVETO VIA NUOVA MARINA
PIAZZA
CARITA
CARITA
marble (see pp14–15). PLAZA G.
PLAZA G.
BOVIO
V. MONTEOLIVETO
BOVIO
Duomo C. VITTORIO EMANUEL E C. VITTORIO EMANUEL E VIA TOLEDO VIA TOLEDO VIA MEDINA VIA MEDINA
Naples’ cathedral VIA DEPRETIS VIA DEPRETIS
VIA C. COLOMBO
boasts a treasure-laden TOLEDO AND VIA C. COLOMBO
TOLEDO AND
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
CASTEL NUOVO
Palaeo-Christian basilica CASTEL NUOVO MUNICIPIO
MUNICIPIO
from the 4th century. The
side chapel, dedicated to the V. S. CATERINA DA SIENA
city’s adored patron saint San
Gennaro, is huge and PLEBISCITO
V. S. CATERINA DA SIENA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PLEBISCITO
resplendent (see pp16–17).
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
This is the repository of ancient art that has
been unearthed from Pompeii and other digs in
the area. The finds evoke a Classical civilization
of refinement and grandeur (see pp18–21).
Capodimonte
An unassuming
hunting lodge that soon
grew to become a vast
royal palace. It now
houses one of Italy’s
finest collec tions of art
(see pp22–3).
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Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights ❮❮ 11

Certosa di San Martino
V IA CAP ODIMO N TE If there is one museum that captures
V IA CAP ODIMO N TE
PIAZZALE
PIAZZALE
MADRE LANDI
MADRE LANDI the true Naples, this is it. Come for peer­
CAPODIMONTE
CAPODIMONTE less views, for the masterpieces of the
AND AND
I VERGINI Neapolitan Baroque and the world’s finest
I VERGINI
collection of nativity figures (see pp26–9).
C. A. DI SAVOIA DUCA D’AOSTA C. A. DI SAVOIA DUCA D’AOSTA
Pompeii and Herculaneum
The world­famous archaeological
VIA SANITÀ site comprises an entire culture caught
VIA SANITÀ
VICO DELLA 0 metr 500 500 in a moment when Vesuvius erup ted
VICO DELLA
0 metreses
CALCE CALCE VIA DEI CRISTALLINI 0 yar 0 yardsds 500 500 nearly 2,000 years ago (see pp30–33).
PIAZZA CAVOUR VIA FORIA VIA DUOMO
PIAZZA CAVOUR
VIA FORIA
V. SALVATOR ROSA
V. SALVATOR ROSA
VIA DEI CRISTALLINI VIA DUOMO
DECUMANO
DECUMANO
MAGGIORE
MAGGIORE V
PIAZZA A DEI TRIBUNALI VIA DUOMO
PIAZZA
BELLINI BELLINI VI VIA DEI TRIBUNALI IA DU
PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA SAN BIAGIO DEI LIBRAI
SALITA PONTEC ORVO
SALITA PONTEC ORVO
DANTE DANTE VIA SAN BIAGIO DEI LIBRAI OMO Capri
VIA
VIA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
V. B. CROCE
V. B. CROCE N. AMORE This small island
VENTAGLIERI
VENTAGLIERI
N. AMORE
SPACCANAPOLI has had a fabled history
SPACCANAPOLI
CORSO UMBERTO I
V. PASQUALE
V. PASQUALE CORSO UMBERTO I of glamour and deca­
SCURA
SCURA
VIA NUOVA MARINA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA V. MONTEOLIVETO dence yet it still remains
CARITA
CARITA PLAZA G. VIA NUOVA MARINA essentially a simple
C. VITTORIO EMANUEL E C. VITTORIO EMANUEL E VIA TOLEDO VIA TOLEDO VIA MEDINA VIA MEDINA VIA DEPRETIS BOVIO BOVIO Amalfi, Ravello place (see pp34–5).
PLAZA G.
V. MONTEOLIVETO
VIA DEPRETIS
VIA C. COLOMBO
TOLEDO AND
TOLEDO AND VIA C. COLOMBO and Positano
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
CASTEL NUOVO
CASTEL NUOVO MUNICIPIO These three villages are a big
MUNICIPIO
draw along this rugged coastline
known for its captivating natural
beauty (see pp36–7).
V. S. CATERINA DA SIENA
V. S. CATERINA DA SIENA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PLEBISCITO
PLEBISCITO
Naples Herculaneum Amalfi Coast
Mercato
Pompeii
Gulf of Nocera Inferiore Pic e n ti ni
Mon t i
Naples
Monti Lattari Salerno
Vico Equense Pontecagnano
Sorrento Ravello
Positano Amalfi Battipaglia
Capri
Gulf of Piana del Sele
0 km 10 S alerno
0 miles 10 Paestum
Paestum
Some of the best preserved
Greek temples in the world stand in
timeless splendour on this evocative
plain south of Naples (see pp38–9).
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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Palazzo Reale, Naples

One glance at this imposing royal palace and it becomes clear that,
in its heyday, Naples was one of Europe’s most important cities and
home to one of the Mediterranean’s most glittering royal courts. 1
Begun in 1600, it was designed by Domenico Fontana and completed
in two years. Additions, including the grand staircase, were made
over the years, and it was redesigned in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The edifice was a royal residence until 1946, when the monarchy was
exiled for its ill-considered support of Mussolini’s Fascist regime.
















Façade
Decor of the
1 2
Apartments
Dominating the vast
Piazza del Plebiscito, the The theme of the
palace’s late Renaissance frescoes that adorn the
façade (above) of 30 royal apartments was
brickwork and grey chosen to flatter royals
piperno stone is adorned from various houses.
with giant statues of
Biblioteca
Naples’ foremost kings. 3
Nazionale
In the eastern wing, the
Furnishings
massive National Library 5
has at its core the Fine examples of
Farnese collection, with Empire furniture (above)
books dating from the 5th predominate in the
century. Also here are palace’s apartments,
1st-century-BC papyri much of it of French
found at Herculaneum. manufacture. Tapestries
adorn many rooms, as
Staircase
4 do exceptional examples
of 18th-century marble
The monumental
staircase (left) leads tables elaborately inlaid
from the central with semiprecious stones.
courtyard up to the royal
Sala di Ercole
apartments. The original 6
masterpiece dates from The Hall of Hercules
1651; in 1837 it was derives its name from the
embellished with pink ancient statue displayed
and white marble. here in the 19th century.
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Palazzo Reale, Naples ❮❮ 13

7 4 Plan of Cappella
Palazzo Palatina 8
8 Reale
A 16th­century wooden
0 door, painted in faux
3 bronze, leads to the Royal
1 Chapel (right), where the
court’s religious activities
6 took place. The high altar
consists of semiprecious
stones set in gilt copper,
2 5 9 while the 18th­century
nativity scene is a study
of local life at the time.
Paintings
9 Gardens
Of considerable
and Stables
importance is the abund­ 0
ance of paintings of all Located to the north of
genres, including works the palace, the gardens,
by Giordano, Guercino, which were laid out in
Carracci, Preti and Titian. 1841, afford great views
Also of interest are of the hill of San Martino
17th­century Dutch in one direction, and of
portraits, 18th­century Vesuvius and the bay in
Chinese watercolours and the other. The old stables
19th­century Neapolitan here are now used for
landscape paintings. special exhibitions.
Teatrino di 7
Corte
Dating from 1768,
this beautiful private
theatre (right) attests to
the royal family’s passion
for comic opera. In the
side niches are 12
figures by Angelo
Viva that depict Apollo
and his Muses.

NEED TO KNOW • The ticket office is Guide to the
MAP N5 • Piazza del notoriously hard to find, Palazzo Reale
Plebiscito • 081 40 05 47 often confused with the You are free to walk around
• DA gift shop. It’s located on the inner courtyard and
the side of the building, gardens at your leisure,
Open 9am–8pm Mon– where the palace
Tue, Thu–Sun (last entry meets the San Carlo without a ticket, as well
7pm) as to enter the National
Opera House. Library. To visit the Royal
Adm €4
• It’s best to buy a Apartments, buy your
• Caffè Gambrinus (see Campania Artecard (see ticket and take the grand
p93), located in the stylish p71) – it reduces entrance staircase up to the left
piazza next to the palace, fees to the major sights only, after which you may
is an excellent and historic and you will also often get see the rooms in whatever
choice for a drink, snack prioritized entry, saving a order you wish and stay as
or a full meal. great deal of time. long as you like.






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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Castel Nuovo, Naples

The Castel Nuovo is more commonly known locally as the Maschio
Angioino, a name that dates the fortress’s origins to the reign of
Charles I of Anjou in the late 13th century. It was officially called the
“New Castle” to distinguish it from existing ones, namely the Ovo and
the Capuano. During the reign of Robert of Anjou, the place became
an important cultural centre, attracting such greats as Petrarch,
Boccaccio and Giotto for productive sojourns. It was the Spanish
conquerors from Aragon who, in the 15th century, gave it its present-
day militaristic look as well as Renaissance embellishments.

Architecture 1
In the 15th
century five cylindrical
towers were added
(right), as was a Catalan
courtyard and the
Hall of the Barons.















Triumphal
Museo Civico
2 4
Arch
On the first floor
Inspired by Roman ante- here are paintings and
cedents, the arch (above) sculptures (below),
was built in 1443 to including a 16th- century
celebrate King Alfonso V Adoration of the
of Aragon and features Magi in which the
sculpted bas-reliefs. Wise Men are
portraits of kings
Cappella
3 Ferrante I and Sala dei
Palatina
Alfonso II,
Baroni
The castle’s main and Emperor 5
chapel houses Charles V. In 1486 Ferrante I of
frescoes from the Also here are Aragon invited barons
14th to 16th 15th- century who were plotting
centuries, as bronze doors, against him to a ball
well as a fine depicting royal here, whereupon he had
Renaissance victories over them all executed. Today
sculpted rebellious the hall is notable for its
tabernacle. barons. splendid vaults (above).

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Castel Nuovo, Naples ❮❮ 15


Plan of Castel Nuovo Paintings
8 FROM FORTRESS
of Naples
5 3 TO CIVIC PARK
The second floor of the
museum focuses on The castle still retains a
Neapolitan works of a defensive look – most
secular nature from notably the sloping
6 the 18th to 20th base surmounted by a
centuries. Sculptures rim of castellated
0
4 include scugnizzi (street battlements. In the 16th
8 urchins), especially the century an enclosing
9 famous Fisherboy by ring wall was added,
Vincenzo Gemito. with bastions of its own,
which hid the castle
9 entire area an even
2 Dungeons from view and gave the
Legend has it
that prisoners would more ominous feel.
Following Italy’s
regularly disappear from Unification, however,
these dungeons without the outer wall was
a trace. The cause was demolished and the
discovered to be a huge area was laid out with
crocodile that would grab avenues, lawns and
their legs through a flower gardens,
drain hole and drag them lessening the forbidding
away; the hole now has aspect of the place.
a grating over it.








Inner Courtyard
Excavations
6 0
In the left corner
This harmonious space (above) has typically
of the courtyard visitors Catalan features, such as the “depressed” arches –
can view archaeological broader and flatter than Italian types – and an
exca vations through a external grand staircase.
glass floor. Macabre sur-
prises include skeletons NEED TO KNOW tempting array of drinks
of monks from an early
convent on the site. MAP N5 • Piazza and freshly made local
Municipio • 081 795 58 77 dishes (see p88).
Views
7 • DA (partial) • Sometimes sections of
One of the best
Open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat the castle can be closed,
aspects of a visit to the (last entry 7pm) but enquire at the
castle is taking in the Adm adults €4; between
magnificent views from 18–24 year-olds €2 information office located
its upper walls and in the courtyard and
terraces. Panoramas • Inside nearby Galleria someone may be kind
include Mount Vesuvius Umberto I is Caffè Roma, enough to let you in for
and, on a clear day, even where you’ll find a a quick look.
the Sorrentine Peninsula.


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16 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Duomo, Naples

Naples’ cathedral originally dates from the 4th century AD with the
founding of the Basilica of Santa Restituta, but two centuries later the
Basilica del Salvatore was built at right angles to the first and this is
the site now occupied by the Duomo. Work on the Duomo as it is seen
today began in the 13th century during the reign of Charles I of Anjou,
but over the centuries it has suffered repeated earthquake damage
and has been restored according to prevailing tastes of the times. The
result is a rich array of art and architecture going back 2,000 years.
Next to the Duomo is the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro.

Interior and 1
Ceiling
The interior cathedral
never fails to dazzle. The
floorplan is 100 m (330 ft)
long, with a nave and two
aisles lined with chapels
(right). Sixteen pillars
support arches flanked
by granite columns.















Façade and
Cappella di San Gennaro
2 4
Portals
Built in the 1600s, this Baroque extravaganza
The façade of Naples’ to the centre-right of the nave employed marble and
cathedral (above) is a precious metals and the
Neo-Gothic affair great artists of the day
restored in the early 20th to decorate its
century but it is graced exquisite walls
by three portals that date and domed
back to the 1400s. ceiling (right).
Font
3
The cathedral’s main baptismal
font dates from 1618. The basin
is made of Egyptian basalt, and
there are Greek sculptures and an
episcopal throne dating from 1376
in the right-hand nave.




016-017_Top_10_Naples.indd 16 20/09/2016 15:40

Duomo, Naples ❮❮ 17

Cappella
6 SAN GENNARO
Minutolo
This chapel is one of the Naples’ patron saint was
best-preserved examples an early Christian who
of the Gothic style of the battled the disapproval
13th and 14th centuries. of Emperor Diocletian.
The Cosmatesque Bent on stamping out
mosaic floor (left) and the off-shoot Jewish sect,
altar frescoes are of Diocletian set about
particular note. slaughtering Christians,
but Gennaro survived by
Relics
7 his faith until he was
beheaded in AD 305. His
The main reliquary
is a gold bust of San body and vials of blood
were preserved in the
Gennaro containing his Catacombs of San
skull bones. There is also Gennaro (see p63) until
a vial containing small they were moved here.
ampoules of his blood. Later, a believer found
that his dried blood
Santa
8 miraculously liquefied on
Restituta
demand, an event that
Naples’ oldest building became a city-wide cult.
was commissioned by
Emperor Constantine,
who made Christianity NEED TO KNOW
the religion of the Roman
Empire. Inside are a MAP P1 • Via Duomo
Romanesque fresco and 147 • 081 44 90 97
mosaics dating from 1322. Duomo: 8:30am–
1:30pm, 2:30–7:30pm
Crypt of the
9 Mon–Sat, 8:30am–
Succorpo
1:30pm, 4:30–7:30pm
The complexity and Sun
originality of this divine Archaeological Area and
Renaissance chapel have Baptistry: 10:30am–
led scholars to attribute 5pm Mon, Tue, Thu–Sat,
the design to Bramante. 9am–3pm Sun. Adm €3
Museum of the Treasure
of San Gennaro:
9am–5pm Mon, Tue,
Archaeological
5 Thu–Sun (Wed open for
groups by appointment).
Area
From Santa Restituta, Adm €7, under 18s and
over 65s free
you can enter the
archaeological area, • For pizza without
with remnants of queues, visit Pizzeria
Greek, Roman and early Lombardi (see p85).
Baptistry
Christian structures, 0 • You will encounter
including walls, This is the oldest large groups being led
columns, mosaics, baptistry in the western around by docents. No
religious buildings and world. It was built towards one will mind if you join
Greek and Roman the end of the 4th century the group; otherwise,
roads. There is some and is adorned with take your own personal
evidence of insulae splendid mosaics (above). tour to another part of
(apartment blocks) The font is thought to have the cathedral until the
having been here in come from an ancient crowds move on.
Roman times. temple to Dionysus.
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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Museo Archeologico
Nazionale, Naples


Among the world’s top museums of ancient art, Naples’
Archaeological Museum overwhelms with its wealth of beautiful
and priceless objects. The building was built in the 16th century as
headquarters for the royal cavalry and later turned into a museum
to house the Farnese Collection and the finds that were brought to
light at Pompeii and Herculaneum. Now the
Farnese Collection is broken up, with the
paintings at Capodimonte and the books in
the National Library, leaving this museum
to focus on its ancient marvels.
Mosaics 4
Romans loved
mosaics (right) on both
floors and walls. Small
chips of coloured glass and
stone (tesserae) were used to
create scenes of every genre.
Glass and
5
Stone Vessels
Masters at producing
Pottery and
1 coloured and transparent
Metal Vessels
glassware, the Romans
Pottery here includes carried these techniques to
Greek and Etruscan artistic heights. Highlights
kraters, Roman terracotta of the collection include the
jars, vases and figurines. celebrated Farnese Cup,
Grecian urns, with red engraved in semiprecious
figures on black back- stone with layers of agate
grounds, depict a variety and sard-onyx, and the blue
of scenes (above). vase. Used as a wine vessel,
the vase was found in a
Marble
2 Pompeii tomb.
Sculpture
Replicas of some of the
most renowned ancient
Classical sculptures are
housed here by artists
such as Phidias, Lysippus,
Praxiteles and Polyclitus.
Also of great importance
are the striking Greek
and Roman busts.
Friezes, Frescoes
Il Gabinetto Segreto
3 6
and Murals
This collection showcases erotic
art from Pompeii and Herculaneum. These Roman works (above) were
The exuberant sexuality of the ancient excavated from Pompeii and disclose
world inspired the frescoes, sculptures a great deal about the society and
and mosaics on display. religion of the time.


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Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples ❮❮ 19

Weapons, Jewellery,
7 BUILDING THE
and Domestic Items
Shields, helmets (right) and COLLECTION
swords remind us that the The Farnese Collection,
ancient world was one of inherited by King
combat, but metalsmiths Ferdinando IV from
also made adornments such his mother in the
as armlets. Domestic items 18th century,
include lamps and cups. forms the core
of the museum,
including one of
Egyptian and
8 the most important
Pre historic Items
This collection contains art from and largest groups of
Roman antiquities in
the Ancient Kingdom (2700– existence. Excavations
2200 BC) to the Roman age. around Vesuvius (see
Funereal sarcophagi and pp30–31) added to the
mummies can be seen here. bounty. In the past 200
years the inventory of
world-class treasures
has been augmented
by many important
aristocratic collections,
including the Bourbon,
Borgia, Orsini, Picchianti
and Astarita collections.
Incised Gems,
9
Coins and
Epigraphs
The collection of incised
gems contains Greek and
Roman pieces; bronze,
silver and gold coins
(below), including some
from Magna Graecia.
Ancient written rec ords
include the Tavole di
Eraclea (3rd century BC).


NEED TO KNOW • Head for Piazza Bellini
MAP N1 • Piazza Museo and sit outside Caffè
19 • 081 442 21 49 Arabo (see p83) to gaze at
• cir.campania. the excavated Greek walls
benicultural.it in the centre of the piazza.
• DA (partial) • Make an appointment
to tour Il Gabinetto Bronze
Open 9am–7:30pm Segreto at the entrance 0
Sculpture
Wed–Mon (ticket office to the museum. You will
closes 6:30pm) This collection is a true
be given a time and a treasure-trove of bronze
Adm €10 choice of languages. masterpieces. The works
Il Gabinetto Segreto: open • At certain times, include a Resting
for tours 9:30am–7:30pm sections may close due Hermes, Fauns, Water-
Wed–Mon to ongoing excavations. Bearers and a host of
statues and busts.





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20 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Individual Masterpieces


Farnese Hercules
1
Created and signed by Glykon
of Athens, this powerful marble
sculpture is a copy and enlargement
of a lost bronze original by the
4th-century BC Greek master
Lysippus. It was also found in the
ruins of the Baths of Caracalla in
Rome, where it is thought that it
served as magnificent decoration for
the imperial pleasure-dome. The
work shows the mythical hero at
rest, exhausted after having Alexander the Great mosaic
completed his round of 12 super-
Alexander the Great
human tasks. Ground floor. 3
Mosaic
Farnese Bull
2 Found as a floor decoration in
Pompeii’s Casa del Fauno, a grand
Found in the Baths of
Caracalla in Rome during aristocratic mansion of the 2nd
excavations, this is the largest century BC, this Hellenistic mosaic is
sculptural group to have survived certainly one of the most elegant and
from antiquity to date. One of the exciting to have survived. The subject
best-known pieces in the Farnese is the routing of Darius’s Persian
Collection, it recounts the story of armies by Alexander the Great’s
Dirce (the first wife of Lykos, King cavalry. The monumentality of the
of Thebes, who ill-treated Antiope work is impressive and it is almost
and is being punished by the latter’s certainly a copy of a lost painting
sons by being tied to a bull. It is of great importance, possibly by
probably a copy – though some Philoxeno. Fragmentary as it is, there
claim it may be the original – of a are still some one million tesserae
2nd-century BC Greek work and (tiles) in its composition. Mezzanine.
is Hellenistic in its execution.
Dancing Faun
Ground floor. 4
A more joyous image of
freedom and exuberant health would
be hard to imagine. This bronze was
found in Pompeii’s Casa del Fauno,
to which it gives its name, as a
decoration in the atrium to greet
arriving guests. Two ancient replicas
are known of this Hellenistic figure,
so it must have been a popular and
inspiring object. Mezzanine.
Hermes at Rest
5
Were it not for the wings
on his feet, one might suppose
that this very boyish Hermes
(Mercury) was just a young athlete
taking a break from his exertions
rather than a god. The proportions
of this sculpture were inspired by
Farnese Bull sculpture the work of Lysippus. First floor.





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Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples ❮❮ 21

Sleeping and Drunken
6 The outer face of the cup has an
Satyrs
image of Medusa; inside is an
Satyrs to the ancients were always a allegorical scene that probably
symbol of pure hedonism – not just alludes to the fertility of the Nile.
sexual licence, but every form of The cup was produced in Egypt in the
ease and indulgence. These two 2nd or 1st century BC. Ground floor.
figures, from the Villa dei Papiri
(see p32), express a light-hearted
indolence that is as implicitly erotic
as it is earthy. The ancients believed
that physical pleasure and delight
were part of man’s divine essence
and gifts from the gods. First floor.
The Doryphoros
7
This is the most complete
replica of the celebrated bronze
original, created in about 440 BC by
Polyclitus of Argos. The name means
“spear-bearer” and one can see that
the figure once held a spear in his
left hand. It is thought to represent
Achilles, and the statue was known Famous fresco, Sacrifice of Iphigenia
in ancient times as the Canon,
Sacrifice of Iphigenia
exhibiting perfect proportions in 9
every aspect of its depiction of the Found in Pompeii, in the
human form. The sculptor developed so-called House of the Tragic Poet,
a complex theory of measurements, this famous painting shows the
related to music, for the ideal dramatic moment when the sacrifice
construction of the human body. of Iphigenia is halted by the inter-
Ground floor (some times on loan vention of Artemis (Diana), who
to other museums). kills a deer instead. The fresco was
once considered a faithful copy of a
painting by the Greek artist Timante,
but it is now thought to be an original
Roman depiction – due primarily to
its overall lack of compositional unity.
First floor (can sometimes be out on
loan to other museums).
Achilles and Chiron
0
Retrieved from the so-called
Basilica in Herculaneum, this fresco
depicts the young hero of the Trojan
War with his mentor, the centaur
Chiron. Since this large work was
decoration for a public building,
Prized exhibit, Farnese Cup the message is clear – heed the
elemental forces of Nature
Farnese Cup
8 (symbolized by the centaur) to
find balance and fulfilment in life.
The star of the museum’s
cameo and incised gem collection The image is based on a famous
is this glistening masterpiece, sculptural group, probably Greek,
carved from a single piece of stone, now lost but known to have stood
specifically chosen by the artist for in ancient Rome, as recorded by
its layering of agate and sardonyx. Pliny the Elder. First floor.





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22 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Capodimonte, Naples

Construction began on this royal palace, museum and porcelain
factory in 1738, under architect Antonio Medrano, and it has been
home to a large part of the Farnese Collection since 1759. After the
French occupation in 1799 the collection was briefly dispersed, with
some pieces taken to France, but they were later returned following
the restoration of the Bourbons in 1815. With the Unification of Italy,
in 1860, the palace and its treasures became the property of the
House of Savoy and the residence of the Dukes of Aosta until 1947.
It was opened to the public in 1957 and restored in 1996, with the
Neapolitan and contemporary art galleries added in 1997.

Pre-14th- and
1
14th-Century
Art
Most of the earliest
Italian art in the museum
was acquired in the 19th
and 20th centuries.
Important works include
Simone Martini’s lavish
Gothic masterpiece San
Ludovico di Tolosa.















The palace’s ballroom, with its impressive chandelier
15th-Century
2 17th-Century 4
Art
Art
Powerful works here Strongest of all the works
include Botticelli’s here is Caravaggio’s
Madonna with Child Flagellation of Christ and
and Angels (above) Artemisia Gentileschi’s
and Bellini’s sublime horrifying Judith and
Transfiguration. Holofernes (right).
16th-Century Art
3
Here you’ll find a serene Assumption of the
Virgin by Pinturicchio, an Assumption by Fra’
Bartolomeo and works by Titian and Raphael.





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Capodimonte, Naples ❮❮ 23



ROYAL PORCELAIN
FACTORY
Charles of Bourbon
established the
Reale Fabbrica delle
Porcellane in 1739
and it quickly became
celebrated for the
refinement of its porce-
lain creations. The
factory flourished until
18th-Century
5 5 9 1759, when the king
returned to his native
Art
Neapolitan artist Fran- 8 Spain and took it and
the staff with him, but
cesco Solimena is well it reopened in 1771,
represented here, 4 and production of
especially by his opulent 8 top-quality pieces
portrait of a courtier, 3 recommenced. The
Principe Tarsia Spinelli. 2 mark for objects made
Other canvases provide here was generally a
us with period views of 0 crowned “N” in blue
Naples, its bay and other on the underside.
scenes, including one of 7
Vesuvius in eruption by 6 1
Pierre-Jacques-Antoine Key to Floorplan NEED TO KNOW
Volaire (above). Mezzanine
First floor MAP K1 • Porta Grande
Porcelain
6 Second floor via Capodimonte, Porta
Parlour
Piccola via Miano 2
Third floor
Designed for Queen Maria • 081 749 91 11 • DA
Decorative
Amalia. Painted and gil- 9 Museum: 8:30am–
ded porcelain assumes Arts 7:30pm Thu–Tue (ticket
the shapes of festoons, The palace is replete desk closes 6:30pm).
musical instruments with decorative arts, Adm €7.50 (€6.50
and figurative scenes. from ivory carvings to after 2pm)
tapestries, to 18th- and Park: 8am–sunset daily
Drawings and
7 19th-century furniture. • Choose the Museum
Graphic Works
Sketches and studies by Café for refreshment –
great artists are here, it’s located down the
including works by Fra’ arcaded corridor away
Bartolomeo, Raphael from the shop in the
and Michelangelo. Open direction of the toilets
mornings only. and then right; follow
the signs from there.
19th-Century
8 • Public transport in
and Modern
Naples is not for the
Art sensitive, and for most,
History paintings and the easiest way to get
landscapes dominate his to the museum is by
part of the collection. taxi. However, you
Palazzo Reale
Endearing are the sculp- 0 can get there by bus:
tures of street urchins by First conceived as 178 runs from Via
Vincenzo Gemito, but the a hunting lodge by Toledo, R4 from Via
signature modern work Charles Barbone, the Medina and C40 from
is Andy Warhol’s cheer- palace (above) grew into Piazza Garibaldi.
fully garish Vesuvius. a three-storey structure.
Following pages Atrani, clinging to the cliffside
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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Certosa di San Martino

In 1325 Charles, Duke of Calabria began construction on what is
now one of the richest monuments in Naples, the monastery of San
Martino. The extensive layout of the place, serenely ensconced just
below the massive Castel Sant’ Elmo, is nothing less than palatial,
with two fine cloisters and a dazzling array of architectural and
artistic wonders. The Carthusian monks were avid collectors
and between the 16th and 18th centuries
commissioned the greatest artists of the
day to embellish their impressive edifice.










Façade
NEED TO KNOW 1
Although originally
MAP L4 • Largo San Gothic in style, the
Martino 5 • 081 229 façade (above) has
45 02 • DA (partial) mostly been overlain
Open 8:30am–7:30pm with refined Baroque
Thu–Tue (ticket office decoration, including the
closes 6:30pm) large round windows.
Adm €6; between 18–25 Choir and Church
€3; under 18s and over 2 3
Sacristy
65s free The elaborate
The richly carved walnut nave of the church
• The best place for a choir stalls were exe­ (below) is a supreme
delicious meal is Renzo cuted between 1629 and display of Baroque art –
e Lucia (Via Tito Angelini 1631 by Orazio de Orio the most complete
31/33; 081 191 71 022). and Giovanni Mazzuoli. record of Neapolitan art
Located atop the Take note of the cherubs from the 17th and 18th
Vomero Hill, close to the and the abundance of centuries crowded into
Castel Sant’Elmo and the volute curves. a single space.
Certosa di San Martino, it
offers a wonderful view
of the city.
• Most of the ground
floor is accessible, but
the upper and lower
floors seem to be under
permanent restoration.
If there is something
you particularly want
to see, ask one of the
custodians and the
locked rooms may be
opened for you.







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Certosa di San Martino ❮❮ 27

Sculpture and
5 THE MONASTERY’S
Marble Decor
The altar, designed by GUARDIAN
Solimena, sports silver Before entering the
putti by Giacomo Certosa, be sure to take
Colombo and silver in the castle hovering
angels by Sanmartino, above it. The monastery
who did many of the was built directly
marble figures (left) that beneath Castel Sant’Elmo
adorn the chapels. for the protection that it
afforded. The original
structure dates from
Angevin times, but it was
rebuilt by the Spanish in
the 16th century on a
six-pointed star design.
Its original name was
Sant’Erasmo, after the hill
it stands on, but the
name became corrupted
over the centuries, first
to Sant’Eramo, then
Sant’Ermo, and finally
to Sant’Elmo.
Paintings and
8
Frescoes
Dominating the ceiling is
the Ascension of Jesus by
Lanfranco, while the
counter-façade has a
lovely Pietà by Stanzione.
Beautiful view from the monastery’s gardens Chiostro
Chapels and
Gardens and
Grande
4 6 9
Belvederes
Subsidiary
The Large Cloister
One of the best aspects Rooms (below) is one of Italy’s
of the Certosa are its The eight chapels are finest, with a 64-marble-
gardens. Not only are decorated in a unified columned portico that
the views from here style consistent with the was designed in the
picture-perfect, but the main part of the church. 16th century.
gardens themselves are All of them are rich with
lush and fragrant. brightly coloured marble
and opulent gilded
Plan of the Monastery stucco trim.
7 0
Quarto del
7
4 Priore
These were the quarters
of the monastery’s Prior,
6 spiritual leader and the
Monks’
8 only one of the monks
who was allowed contact 0
with the outside world. Cemetery
9 Aristocratic furnishings In a corner of the Chiostro
and priceless works of art Grande is a plot where a
from the Certosa collec- small number of monks
5 2 3 1 tion adorn the walls. have been laid to rest.
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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Pinacoteca and Museum Exhibits

work by Pietro Bernini, Madonna
with Child and St John the Baptist
as a Child. Its twisting com-
position, with St John kissing the
Child’s foot and Mary looking on,
embodies tenderness.
Baroque Art
4
This era is the collection’s
strongest suit. Significant
sculptures include a Veiled Christ
in terracotta by Corradini and
a St Francis in marble by
Triptych by Jean Bourdichon Sanmartino. A devout Lanfranco
painting, Madonna with Child and
Early International
1 Saints Domenico and Gennaro, is
Renaissance Art
typical of the age.
The most outstanding piece here is
Jusepe Ribera
a triptych by Jean Bourdichon of 5
the Virgin and Child and saints The great Spanish artist, who
John the Baptist and John the worked in Naples for most of his life,
Evangelist (c.1414). The work was appreciated for his
employs masterful perspective dramatic style (see p45).
and anatomical detail. His St Sebastian is one of
the most powerful works,
Early Italian
2 showing the ecstatic face of
Renaissance Art
the young man, his body
Of special note here is a pierced with arrows.
15th-century view of Naples,
Micco Spadaro
the Tavola Strozzi, by an 6
unknown artist and the first This artist’s
painted view of the city from Martyrdom of St Sebastian
the sea. Sculptures include a provides an interesting
marble Madonna and Child, contrast with Ribera’s work.
attributed to Tino di Camaino. Rather than focus on the
man in close-up, he is
High Renaissance
3 tied up, just before Roman
shown off to the right being
Art
The most significant works soldiers let their arrows
here are marble sculptures, Bernini’s Madonna fly. Another Spadaro work
including a late 16th-century with Child shows the monks of the






Tavola Strozzi, a 15th-century view of Naples from the sea






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Certosa di San Martino ❮❮ 29


7 5 1 8
NATIVITY SCENES
2
3
0

6
4
9

Key to Floorplan The custom of nativity scenes is
Ground floor traditionally traced to December 1223,
First floor when St Francis of Assisi celebrated
mass before a sculptured group of the
Certosa thanking Christ for sparing Holy Family flanked by a live ox and ass.
them from the plague, with a view of However, in 1025, there was already a
Naples’ bay through the arcades. church of Sancta Maria ad Praesepem
in Naples, where a representation of the
Stanzione
7 Nativity became the focus of devotion.
Called presepio, derived from the Latin
Stanzione’s Baptism of Christ
is noteworthy for the luminous way praesepe or “feeding trough”, referring
to the Christ Child’s initial resting place,
the flesh is rendered, employing the art of the nativity scene grew to
pronounced effects of chiaroscuro become a major undertaking in the
(light and shade). 1600s. Kings and queens would vie
with each other to gather together the
most impressive, dazzling, poignant
and often humorous display,
commissioning the best artists and
designers of the day. It was not until
the end of the 19th century that these
wonderful works were fully recognized
as an artistic genre in their own right.
The oldest example of a monumental
Neapolitan presepio comes from the
church of San Giovanni a Carbonara;
sculpted by Pietro and Giovanni
Nativity scene, Cuciniello Presepe Alemanno in 1478–84, it originally
included 41 life-size wooden figures, of
Nativity Collection
8 which 19 still survive in the church.
Of all the priceless nativity
scenes and figures here, the Cuciniello
Presepe is by far the most elaborate. and figurines. Subject matter ranges
Quite lost is the manger scene amid from religious, such as a coral and
180 shepherds, 10 horses, 8 dogs, gold Crucifix, to mythological, to
folk going about their business, a scenes from daily life.
Moroccan musical ensemble and
Neapolitan 19th-Century
much more. Lighting effects create 0
dawn, day, dusk and night. Art
Pre- and post-Unification was a
Glass, Porcelain
9 time when Italians awoke to their
and Gold
cultural heritage and began to
The array of objects here goes back capture it in art. City views and its
to the 1500s and includes painted environs are informative of bygone
plates, vases, tiles, pitchers, mirrors days, as are the portraits.

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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Pompeii
IV
V VIA DI NOLA III
Two thousand years ago, few people knew that Vesuvius was a VESUVIO II
V. DI CASTRICIO
VIA D.
volcano, although in AD 62, what turned out to be a premonitory XI VIA DELL'ABBONDANZA
VII
tremor caused damage to the coastal town of Pompeii as well as to V. D. FORTUNA VICOLO D.
other towns in the vicinity. Years later, residents were still repairing V. STABIANA NAVE EUROPA ANFITEATRO
PIAZZA
I
the damage to their homes and public buildings. Then, in AD 79, came V. D. FORO VIII
the most devastating eruption (see p33). Horrific as it was for those
who suffered, the result was the preser vation of an ancient culture
like a time capsule to be discovered centuries later.
Forum
1
Every Roman city
centred commercial,
civic, political and
religious life around the
Forum (right), generally a
long rectangular area.






Amphitheatre
2
Far to the east
stands Pompeii’s
amphitheatre – a typical
oval shape, though small
by Roman standards
(above). It was the first
of its kind built for
gladiatorial combat.
House of
3
Menander
This grand house (right)
includes an atrium,
peristyle and baths. It
proved to be a treasure-
trove of silver objects,
Brothel
Stabian Baths
now on display in Naples’ 5 6
Museo Archeologico. To the west of Via The lupanarium,
Stabiana are the Stabian which is the largest of
Theatre
4 Baths, the most ancient the ruined Roman city’s
brothels, is decorated with
The large 2nd-
structure here, dating
century BC theatre was back to the 4th century frescoes depicting erotic,
built in the style of the BC. The stuccoed vaults in sometimes explicit, acts,
Greek system, using the the men’s changing room which help to give some
slope of the land for the have preserved images of clue to the proclivities of
cavea (seating area). nymphs and cupids. the prostitutes.

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Pompeii and Herculaneum ❮❮ 31

8 5
7 Map of Pompeii MOUNT VESUVIUS
IV
300 metres V VIA DI NOLA III
9 VESUVIO II 2 In ancient times,
Vesuvius was simply
V. DI CASTRICIO
VIA D.
0 V. D. FORTUNA XI VIA DELL'ABBONDANZA “the mountain”, covered
VII
6 VICOLO D. with vegetation and
PIAZZA vines, until it famously
1 I ANFITEATRO
VIII 3 blew its stack in AD 79.
NAVE EUROPA
V. STABIANA
At least five other
V. D. FORO
4
occurrences have been
House of the Vettii
7 recorded in the last 400
years and experts
One of the most beautiful houses in Pompeii,
the interior is adorned with splendid paintings and estimate that it could
erupt again at any time.
friezes featuring mythological themes. Its last rumble was in
1944, when the pointed
cone disappeared, along
with the smoky plume
that issued from it.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP E4 • 081 857 53
47 • Via Villa dei Misteri
2 • www.pompeiisites.
org • DA (partial)
Open 9am–7:30pm
daily (until 5pm Nov–
Mar) (last entry 90 mins
before closing time)
Herculaneum, Oplontis
and Stabiae: 8:30am–
7:30pm daily
House of
House of the
8 0 Adm Pompeii €13,
Herculaneum €11,
Golden Cupids
the Faun
This sumptuous house The 1-m (3-ft) bronze Oplontis and Stabiae
€5.50, cumulative ticket
was named after statue of the Dancing available €22
the gold-leaf Faun (left), found
decorations here in the middle of Villa dei Papiri: 9am–
of amorini the courtyard pond, noon Sat–Sun; must
(cupids) in the accounts for the name book ahead at www.
bedroom. It of this house, which arethusa.net
was owned covered an entire Crater of Vesuvius:
by the Poppaea insula (city block). Still 9am–5pm daily.
family, that of here are opus sectile Guided tours (see p95).
Nero’s second wife. mosaic marble floors Adm €6.50
The gardens were (coloured geometric • There are on-site
adorned with patterns) as well cafés at Pompeii and
sculptures, as wall deco- Herculaneum.
marble tables rations of
and a pool. great merit. • Guided tours are
also available – call 081
Via dei Sepulcri and Villa dei Misteri
9 857 53 47.
The Way of the Tombs lies outside the city
• Some houses may be
gates for fear of the dead bringing bad luck. Beyond subject to closure due
this is the 90-room House of the Mysteries, where to restoration work.
you can peek in to see the marvellous wall paintings.
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32 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae


Villa dei Papiri
1 Map of Herculaneum 25 km
The remains of the resort
0
6
CO RS O R ES INA
town of Herculaneum were 750 metres DECUMANUS MAXIMUS
discovered before Pompeii but 1 VI V 8
were harder to excavate since it C ARDO III C ARDO V II
was covered by a thicker layer of 4 VI A MA R E C ARDO IV 9
volcanic ash. Fortunately, this also 15 km
meant that every aspect was better 7 D E C UMAN US IN FERIO R
preserved. This villa was one of
the first to be explored, housing 5 III C ARDO V I
art treasures now in the Museo C ARDO IV 2
Archeologico (see pp18–21). The IV 3
papyrus scrolls that give the villa its C ARDO III Ticket
name are in the National Library. Office
Entrance
Trellis House
5
This building provides a won-
derfully preserved example of what
an ordinary multi-family dwelling
was like. Two storeys high, it has a
balcony that overhangs the pavement
and its walls are composed of wood
and reed laths with crude tufa and
lime masonry to fill in the frame.
House of Neptune
Art uncovered at Villa dei Papiri 6
and Amphitrite
House of the Stags
2 This is named after the mosaic of the
The name derives from the
sea god and his nymph-bride that
sculpture of stags being attacked by adorns the fountain in the summer
dogs that was found here. Other dining room at the back of the house.
sculptures include a Satyr with
Wineskin and a Drunken Hercules.
House of the Mosaic
3
Atrium
This house takes its name from its
mosaic floor of black-and-white
geometric patterns. Gardens and
rooms with views of the sea must
have made it a lovely place to relax.
City Baths
4
Built in 10 BC, these tradi-
tional baths are fascinating. They
are divided into male and female
sections, both decorated with the
same sea-themed mosaics featuring
tritons and fish. At the centre of the
complex is an open porticoed area
used as a gymnasium. Mosaic decoration, City Baths





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Pompeii and Herculaneum ❮❮ 33



THE ERUPTION OF AD 79
On 24 August AD 79,
Mount Vesuvius
suddenly erupted. The
CO RS O R ES INA apex of the calamity
DECUMANUS MAXIMUS
started at about
VI V 10am and by 1pm
II
it was all over – all
C ARDO III
the cities on the
C ARDO V
C ARDO IV
mountain’s slopes
D EC UMA N US I N F E R IOR
were covered
VI A MA R E
with lava, and
III C ARDO V I Pompeii and its citizens were entirely
The eponymous mosaic, House of buried. It lay undiscovered until 1750.
IV Neptune and Amphitrite Here are the words of Pliny the
C ARDO IV
Ticket Younger, who survived to write an
Office eyewitness account of the events: “On
Other fine mosaics can be seen
C ARDO III
Entrance here too. The shop attached to the Mount Vesuvius broad sheets of fire
house has wooden structures and and leaping flames blazed at several
points, their bright glare emphasized
furniture in perfect condition. by the darkness… an ominous thick
House of the Wooden
7 smoke, spreading over the earth like a
flood, enveloping the earth in night…
Partition
earth-shocks so violent it seemed the
A kind of “accordion” partition here world was being turned upside down…
was devised to separate the atrium the shrill cries of women, the wailing of
from the tablinium, the room of children, the shouting of men… Many
business affairs. lifted up their hands to the gods, but a
great number believed there were no
gods, and that this was to be the
world’s last, eternal night…The flames
and smell of sulphur… heralded the
approaching fire …The dense fumes…
choked… nearly everyone, to death.”
Marble counter tops, Thermopolia
Thermopolia
8
The Thermopolia is an
example of a fast-food outlet of the
day. The terracotta amphorae set
into the marble counter top would
have contained various comestibles.
Only wealthy people had facilities to
cook food, so most would stop by
such a place to eat. Stabian Villas
Villa of Sabina Poppaea
9 0
Set on the Varano Hill just
and Villa of Crassus
outside Castellammare di Stabia,
These beautifully preserved both villas preserve mosaic floors,
aristocratic villas are located in gardens, peristyles and frescoes. Villa
what was once the ancient resort Arianna is named after a fresco of
of Oplontis. The complex includes Ariadne being abandoned by Theseus.
gardens, porticoes, private baths, a Villa San Marco sports a gymnasium,
pool and astounding wall decorations. pool and interesting frescoes.
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34 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Capri

Ever since ancient times, this luxuriant, saddle-shaped rock in
the Bay of Naples has captured the world’s imagination as a place
where dreams can be realized and life can become an earthly
paradise. Hopes and wishes notwithstanding, the island does
have something special, perhaps generated by its sheer dramatic
beauty, its crystal-clear waters and its lush vineyards and lemon
and olive groves that seem to cover every available corner.
Marina Grande 1
Whether by ferry,
hydrofoil or private yacht,
virtually all visitors to the
island arrive at this little
port town – a mes-
merizing sight as you
approach (right). It’s a
colourful place, but the
bustle is only skin-deep –
in reality it’s just as laid
back as the rest of Capri.









Arco Naturale
4
Follow signs from
Capri Town for this easy-
going walking trail, where
Capri Town
2 rocky staircases offer
fine panoramas of the
Piazza Umberto I,
which is known simply mainland coastline.
as “Piazzetta” (above) is The Natural Arch itself
the town’s outdoor salon, consists of a huge lime-
Via Krupp and
filled to the brim with stone crag, jutting out 5
chic bars and restaurants. and with the bright tur- I Faraglioni
Nighttime is when the quoise sea seen below. Via Krupp (above) is a
true Capri denizens switchback path carved
come out to play. into the cliff face. From
here there are views of
Villa Jovis 3 I Faraglioni rocks.
Emperor Tiberius’s
Marina Piccola
1st-century-AD villa, built 6
on the cliff’s edge, is now This small harbour
in ruins (right) but the has private bathing huts,
views of the Bay of a pebbly arc of beach,
Naples, from the highest wonderful rocks for
point at this end of the diving from and several
island, are dazzling. good fish restaurants.


034-035_Top_10_Naples.indd 34 20/09/2016 15:40

Capri ❮❮ 35

Anacapri and
Monte Solaro
7 8 A GLAMOROUS PAST
Punta Carena
No trip to the island
is complete without a Before 1877, when the Capri emerged on the
chairlift ride up to Capri’s road was built, Anacapri upmarket tourist map in
highest peak, from which was isolated and is still the 19th century, but
you can look down on the less pretentious than the the high point of famed
pastoral timelessness of rest of the island. From “Gay Capri” was the early
lemon groves, little white here, another great jaunt 20th century, which is
houses, and endless is to the lighthouse at when it began to attract
flower gardens that cover Punta Carena, where a literati such as Norman
the island – breathtaking. rocky beach awaits, as Douglas, Graham
well as good facilities Greene, Somerset
Maugham and Maxim
and restaurants. Gorky. Later on, the
Villa San
9 1960s, the era known as
“Capri People”, brought
Michele
Built by a Swedish doctor the international jet-set
to the island, including
on the site of one of La Dolce Vita swingers,
Tiberius’s houses, Villa Hollywood film stars,
San Michele is an eclectic and even the beautiful
mix of Romanesque, newly-wed Jacqueline
Renaissance and Moorish Kennedy.
styles, surrounded by
gorgeous gardens. Map of Capri
9
1 2
0
3
8 Isola di CAPRI
ANACAPRI Capri
7
4
6 5
Blue Grotto
0
The island’s most
famous attraction is this
sea-grotto, of a colour
and intensity of blue that
can be experienced no-
where else (left). Local
oarsmen ferry visitors
inside – be aware that the
grotto can close at short
notice due to tide levels.
NEED TO KNOW Castellammare di Stabia. • To get a feel for the
MAP C5 • Tourist Journey times to Capri: 80 island, take one of the
Information: Piazzetta mins from Naples; 40 mins recommended hikes – or
Cerno 11, 081 837 06 86, from Sorrento. Hydrofoils better still, rent a kayak
www.capritourism.com take half these times. and go exploring along
Ferries and hydrofoils leave the otherwise inaccessible
from many ports, including • In Capri town there are coastline areas.
Mergellina and Beverello in many good eating and • Note that Villa Krupp
Naples, Sorrento, Positano, drinking options in and can often be closed for
Amalfi, Salerno, Ischia and around Piazzetta. safety reasons.






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36 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Amalfi, Ravello
and Positano


With its dramatic coastline dotted with villages clinging to cliffs that
drop down to the azure sea, the beauty of the Amalfi Coast has been
luring travellers since ancient times. Beyond the striking landscape
lies a fascinating history in Amalfi, home to the powerful Republic of
Amalfi in the Middle Ages. Positano’s idyllic setting and pastel-hued
homes draped with fauna leave an indelible mark, while Ravello is set
boldly upon a rocky
spur, suspen ded high
above the sea.
Duomo di
1
Amalfi
Sitting atop a staircase,
Amalfi’s cathedral
(below) is dedicated to
St Andrew and features
the 13th-century Cloister
of Paradise, museum,
crypt and sumptuous
Baroque interior.






Museo della
Valle delle
2 3
Carta, Amalfi
Ferriere,
Discover Amalfi’s Amalfi
important role in the Hike from Amalfi into the
history of papermaking Valle delle Ferriere (Valley
at this interesting small of the Mills) where ruins
museum, which is of once prosperous
evocatively set in a historic paper mills are surroun-
paper mill (see p49). ded by a lush forest.
NEED TO KNOW Villa Rufolo: Piazza del 9am–7pm (summer), Scala
MAP E5 • Tourist Duomo. 089 85 76 21. 10am–4pm (winter) daily. SP20 SR373
Information: Amalfi, 9am–30 min before sunset Adm €3 Ravello
Via delle Repubbliche daily. Adm €5 Museo della Carta: Via
Marinare, 089 87 11 07; Duomo di Ravello: Piazza delle Cartiere 23. 089 830
Ravello, Via Roma 18, 089 del Duomo. 089 85 83 11. 45 61. 10am–6:30pm daily
85 70 96/79 77; Positano, Church 9am–1pm, 4–7pm (summer), 10am–3:30pm Pontone
Via Regina Giovanna 13, daily, museum: 9am–7pm daily except Mon and Thu SS373
089 87 50 67 (summer), 9am–6pm (winter). Adm €4 SS163
Villa Cimbrone: Via Santa (winter) daily. Adm €2 Santa Maria Assunta: Via Atrani
Chiara 26. 089 85 74 59. Duomo di Amalfi: Piazza Marina Grande. 089 87 54 80. Amalfi
9am–sunset daily. Adm €7 Duomo. 089 87 13 24. 8am–12pm, 4pm–8pm daily SS163







036-037_Top_10_Naples.indd 36 20/09/2016 15:40

Amalfi, Ravello and Positano ❮❮ 37

Atrani
4 RAVELLO MUSIC
Amalfi’s next-door
neighbour to the east FESTIVAL
is the picturesque fishing Each summer Ravello is
village of Atrani (below), transformed into a haven
which is one of Italy’s for music lovers. The
smallest municipalities. concert offerings range
The narrow alleys and from chamber music to
main square are a opera, dance, jazz and
flashback in time and the world-class contem-
porary performers. The
beach is an attractive festival was inspired by
alternative to Amalfi. Richard Wagner and
Edvard Grieg, the
19th-century composers
Villa Cimbrone,
6 who were moved by the
Ravello
The creation of an English natural beauty, gardens
and panoramic views of
lord, Ernest Beckett, the Ravello. For the most
house imitates the part, concerts and events
Moorish style that pre- take place at Villa Rufolo
dominates in Ravello, and and the Auditorium
its gardens are set with Oscar Niemeyer.
Classical temples (above).








Scala
5
This tiny hamlet,
built on a succession of
terraces, is well worth a
visit for the outstanding
Santa Maria
Villa Rufolo,
views it affords when you 7 9
look back at its larger Ravello Assunta
neighbour, Ravello. The 800-year-old Arab- Church, Positano
style palace and its With its multi-coloured
Map of Amalfi lovely terraced gardens majolica-tiled dome and
and Ravello (above) have inspired shimmering white and
5 Scala lots of visitors. The terrace gold Baroque interior,
SP20 SR373 is used in summer for Positano’s main church
Ravello staging concerts. is as pretty as its setting.
8
7 Duomo di Fornillo Beach,
8 0
Ravello
Positano
6
Pontone SS373 The 11th-century Follow the scenic
to this beautiful beach
trove of works. Its
2 SS163 cathedral is a treasure- pathway hugging the cliff
Atrani 4 beautiful pulpit (1272) set in a cove flanked by
1 has twisted columns two watchtowers; the
SS163 Amalfi resting on sculpted lions perfect respite from the
10 km 3 at the base. summer crowds.
9 0
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38 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast Highlights

Paestum

Paestum enjoyed 1,000 years of prosperity, first as Greek Poseidonia,
founded in the 7th century BC, then under the Lucanians, then the
Romans. But the crumbling of the Roman Empire led to the gradual
abandonment of the city and with that, the degradation of the fields,
which turned into malaria-ridden swamps. No one dared come near
the spot until the 18th century when Charles III of Spain was having a
road built; trees were cut down, and there they were – three intact
Greek temples. Much more was discovered in the 20th century.
Temple of
Amphitheatre
Walls
1 4 5
“Ceres”
This Roman
At its peak,
Paestum was large and structure dates from the Votive offerings found
prosperous, as evidenced 1st century BC or later, here suggest that this
by its impressive 5 km and is only partially exca­ small temple, further
(3 miles) of walls, set off vated, the rest lying under north than the other
with towers and gates at the 18th­century road, sites, was actually
strategic points. but some of the exposed dedicated to Athena.
part has been rebuilt. Its
Basilica
2 capacity was small – only
The oldest temple
about 2,000 – compared
on the grounds, from to others in the region.
c. 530 BC, was most
likely dedicated to two
deities, Hera and Zeus.










Temple of
Museum
3 6
“Neptune”
This informative
The last of the three museum exhibits finds
temples to be built at from this excavation and
Paestum, in about 450 several important ones VIA SACRA
BC, is also the finest nearby (left). One of Romano
Foro
and the best preserved those sites is the SP189
(above). It may have Sanctuary of Hera SP276 SP276
been dedicated to Argiva, built by the
Neptune (Poseidon), Greeks at the mouth of SP168
but some scholars the River Sele in about V. PORTA GIUSTIZIA
argue for Apollo, and 600 BC. There is a collection
others for Zeus. of Roman finds upstairs.



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Paestum ❮❮ 39



MAGNA GRAECIA
Being great seafarers,
the ancient Greeks
were indefatigable
colonizers. Each
important city-state
sent out expeditions all
over the Mediterranean
to set up new cities.
Magna Graecia (Greater
Greece) formed the
southern part of the
Tomb Frescoes
Sculpture
7 8 Italian peninsula, along
with Sicily, which the
Prime examples
Most famous of the
exhibits in the museum in this category of the Greeks dominated for
centuries, until the
are the tomb frescoes museum include archaic Romans expanded their
(above). Virtually the only metopes (decorative hegemony. Paestum
examples of ancient architectural elements) (Poseidonia) was one
Greek painting to survive, and one of two dancing such Greek city, as
they are full of light and girls from the Sanctuary were Naples (Neopolis),
bright colours. of Hera Argiva, so well Cumae, and many more.
carved in bas-relief that
each of the figures seems
to be moving in space.
NEED TO KNOW
Pottery
9 MAP H6 • Via Magna
Graecia 917 (SS18)
Fine examples of
Grecian urns are on • www.paestum
view, including a krater sites.com
with red-figured painting Open 9am–1 hr before
on black, depicting a sunset daily; museum:
young satyr and a girl 9am–7pm Tue–Sun
reluctant to succumb to Adm €4 for site or
his blandishments, and museum, €6.50 for both
an amphora with black
figures on red cele brating Tourist Information:
Via Magna Graecia 887.
the fruit of the vine. 0828 81 10 16/23.
Artifacts
0 www.infopaestum.it
Other artifacts
• Frequent buses
here include a bronze run from Salerno to
vase that con tained honey, Paestum, and in
amazingly still liquid at summer four buses run
the time it was found due daily from Naples – call
Map of Paestum to unique atmospheric 800 01 66 59 or visit
2 3 conditions below ground. www.cstp.it – or take
the train to Paestum
Station (1 km/ half a
VIA SACRA mile from site).
Foro • There are plenty of
Romano
quick snacks and light
SP189
SP276 SP276 meals available up and
down the tourist strip.
• To see the temples at
SP168
their most evocative,
visit at dawn or at dusk.
1 4 6 9 0 7 8 5
V. PORTA GIUSTIZIA
038-039_Top_10_Naples.indd 39 20/09/2016 15:40

The Top 10

of Everything












Naples’ imitation of the Pantheon,
San Francesco di Paola















































040-041_Top_10_Naples.indd 40 20/09/2016 15:40

Moments in History 42 Romantic Spots 60
Artists and their Masterpieces 44 Off the Beaten Track 62
Icons of Popular Culture 46 Children’s Attractions 64
Museums and Galleries 48 Neapolitan Dishes 66
Churches in Naples 50 Neapolitan Souvenirs 68
Piazzas and Fountains 52 Naples and the Amalfi Coast
for Free 70
Walks 54
Religious Celebrations 72
Beaches 58


















































040-041_Top_10_Naples.indd 41 20/09/2016 15:40

42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History


Greek
Norman
1 4
Conquest
Colonization
From the 8th to the In 1140 the Norman
5th centuries BC this king Roger II made his
southern area became triumphant entry into
an important part of Naples – the Normans
Magna Graecia when had already gained
Greek city-states set up possession of Sicily and
trading posts here (see most of southern Italy.
p39). In 470 BC Neapolis The once proudly
(New City) was founded, autonomous city now
which later became had to take a back seat
modern Naples. to Palermo – although
Norman king, wellbeing continued to
Vesuvius
2 Roger II rise, due to the Normans’
Erupts
stability and efficiency.
Around 326 BC the area was
Angevin Capital
absorbed into the Roman Empire 5
and by the 1st century AD Naples In the mid-13th century, the
was a renowned centre of learning. French Anjou dynasty, having taken
But in August AD 79 all that changed over the Kingdom of Sicily, shifted
when Mount Vesuvius suddenly its capital to Naples. Many new
erupted after centuries of dormancy. buildings were erected, including, in
Within a few hours, entire cities were 1279, the Castel Nuovo (see pp14–15).
gone, covered by ash or boiling
Sicilian Vespers
volcanic mud (see pp30–31). 6
With the removal of the capital
Byzantine Siege
3 to the mainland, Sicilian resentment
came to a head on Easter Monday
With the fall of the Roman
Empire in the 5th century, the area 1282. A riot, known as the Sicilian
was overrun by tribes from the Vespers, left 2,000 Frenchmen dead
north, particularly the Goths. In 553 and initiated a 20-year war. Finally,
the Byzantine emperor Justinian’s Sicily was lost and the Angevin kings
chief general Belisarius focused their attention on
conquered Naples, leading to
the zone. great prosperity.










Sicilian Vespers riot






042-043_Top_10_Naples.indd 42 20/09/2016 15:41

Moments in History ❮❮ 43



TOP 10 HISTORIC FIGURES
1 Parthenope
The siren spurned by Ulysses gave her
name to the first Greek colony, in 680
BC, now Pizzofalcone.
2 Spartacus
This runaway slave led a revolt of
the oppressed from headquarters
on Vesuvius.
Giving thanks after the plague 3 Romulus Augustulus
The last emperor of the Western
Plague of 1656
7 Empire died in Naples in AD 476.
At the beginning of the 17th
4 Belisarius
century Naples was Europe’s largest The general was sent by the Byzantine
city, but in 1656 a plague struck. After Emperor to reconquer much of the
six months, three-quarters of the Italian peninsula in the 5th century.
people were buried in mass graves. 5 Pope Innocent II
When the Normans were making
King Charles III Enters
8 progress towards Naples in 1137 the
in Triumph
city turned to the pope for help, but
In 1734 the Spanish king arrived in the Normans took him prisoner.
Naples. He was heir to the Farnese 6 Queen Joan I
clan, who were Italian by birth, and Joan (1343–81) was so loved by the
transformed his new home town into people that they forgave her for
a city of the Enlightenment. plotting the murder of her husband.
7 Tommaso Aniello
This fisherman led a revolt in 1647
against the taxation policies of the
Spanish rulers.
8 Maria Carolina of Austria
The sister of Marie Antoinette was the
power behind the throne of her
husband, Ferdinand IV (1768–1811).
9 King Joachim Murat
Napoleon’s brother-in-law ascended
the throne of Naples in 1808 but was
executed in 1815.
Garibaldi’s arrival in Naples
10 Antonio Bassolino
Naples Joins a
9 Naples’ left-wing mayor from 1993 to
Unified Italy
2001 brought about a long-overdue
On 21 October 1860 Naples voted to clean up of the city.
join a united Italy, under the rulership
of an Italian king, Vittorio Emanuele
II – Garibaldi had entered the city two
months previously to gather support.
Le Quattro Giornate
0
Napoletane
On 27–30 September 1943 Neapolitans
showed their true character. After the
occupying Nazis threatened to deport
all the city’s young males, rioting by
the populace kept the Germans so
busy that the Allies were able to get Maria Carolina of Austria
a toehold and rout the enemy.


042-043_Top_10_Naples.indd 43 20/09/2016 15:41

44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Artists and their
Masterpieces


it is an early work, all
of the hallmarks of the
painter at his height are
here: the delicacy of the
veils; the refinement of
features; and the soulful
eyes, evoking sublimity.
Titian
5
This consummate
painter of the Venetian
Renaissance (c.1448–
Crucifixion (c.1308) by Pietro Cavallini 1576) is represented
in Naples by several
Pietro Cavallini
1 works, all but one in the Capodimonte
Museum. These include his
Many scholars now credit this
Roman artist (c.1259–c.1330) with sensuous masterpiece Danaë, and
much of the St Francis fresco in the religious works La Maddalena
Assisi, formerly attributed to Giotto. and Annunciazione.
Cavallini’s work in Naples includes
Caravaggio
Scenes from the Lives of Christ and 6
John the Baptist in San Domenico This Baroque master (1571–
Maggiore (see p80). 1610) created a lasting artistic
revolution with his dramatic use of
Donatello
2 light and shade. He spent a year or
so in Naples; among the works he
The bas-relief of the Assump­
tion, the cardinal’s head and the completed here is Flagellation of
caryatid on the Right of the Tomb of Christ, originally in San Domenico
Cardinal Rinaldo Brancaccio in Maggiore but now in Capodimonte.
Sant’Angelo a Nilo church (see p80)
are assumed to be the only pieces
that exist in Naples by this Florentine
master (1386–1466).
Masaccio
3
A 15th­century Crucifixion by
this Tuscan painter (1401–28) is one
of the treasures of the Capodimonte
Museum. The work is a blend of the
formal medieval tradition and the
vitality of the Renaissance. Of note
are the anatomical accuracy of
Christ’s torso and the sense of
drama created by the outstretched
arms of Mary Magdalene.
Sandro Botticelli
4
Typical of this much­loved
Florentine artist (1445–1510) is his
Madonna with Child and Two Angels in Madonna with Child and Two Angels
the Capodimonte Museum. Although (c.1465) by Sandro Botticelli




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Artists and their Masterpieces ❮❮ 45

Artists and their 7 TOP 10 WRITERS AND
Domenichino
A mammoth fresco cycle by
Masterpieces this painter (1581–1641) adorns the PHILOSOPHERS
Duomo’s Cappella di San Gennaro
(see p16), depicting episodes from
the life of Naples’ patron saint.
Jusepe Ribera
8
The Spanish painter (1590–
1652) spent much of his life in
Naples, where he created powerful
and original works. These include
his San Sebastiano in the Certosa di
San Martino (see p28). St Thomas Aquinas
Artemisia Gentileschi
9 1 Virgil
The epic poet (70–19 BC) lived in
It is said that Gentileschi
(1593–1652) was violated in her Naples for many years, incorporating
local legends into his work The Aeneid.
youth and brought the pain of her 2 Petronius
indignation to her astounding Judith In his saga The Satyricon (only a
and Holofernes, now in Capodimonte. fragment survives), this author (d.
She was virtually the only female AD 66) captures the decadence of the
artist of the age to rise to fame. Roman Empire in the villas of Naples.
3 Pliny the Younger
Thanks to this writer (AD 62–113) we
know much about the day Vesuvius
erupted and buried Pompeii (see p33).
4 Suetonius
The writer (AD 70–126) is famous
for his Twelve Caesars, scandalous
accounts of the first Roman emperors.
5 St Thomas Aquinas
The theologian (1225–74) was often
a guest at San Domenico Maggiore,
headquarters for religious study at
the University of Naples.
6 Petrarch
The great lyric poet and scholar
(1313–74) often visited the court
of Robert of Anjou in Naples.
7 Giovanni Boccaccio
Author of The Decameron (1348–53),
10 tales of ribaldry in medieval Naples.
8 Torquato Tasso
Tasso was an epic poet and a native
Triumph of Judith by Luca Giordano of Sorrento (1544–95).
Luca Giordano
0 9 Giovanni Battista Vico
Born in Naples, Vico (1668–1744)
One of the most prolific of
found fame with his influential
Naples’ Baroque artists (1634–1705). La Scienza Nuova (The New Science)
His paintings and frescoes are published in 1725.
ubiquitous in the city, adorning 10 Benedetto Croce
churches and museums. Most The philosopher, historian and
significant is Triumph of Judith (1704) statesman (1866–1952) spent much
on the Treasury ceiling in the Certosa time in Naples.
di San Martino (see pp26–9).





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46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Icons of Popular Culture


Scugnizzi and Lazzaroni
4
These two characters,
products of the poverty the city has
historically suffered, are street urchins
and ruffians. Both have been heavily
romanticized by outsiders, yet their
sly wisdom and wit are traits all
Neapolitans seem to aspire to.
Neapolitan Song
5
Naples has always been
known as a city of music, with songs
focusing nostalgically on love, the
Pulcinella figurines, Naples sun and the sea. O’ Sole Mio and
Santa Lucia are the most renowned.
Pulcinella
1
Cunning, perpetually hungry
and rambunctious, Pulcinella (Little
Chicken) is the symbol of Neapolitans
and their streetwise way of life. His
signature white pyjama-like outfit,
peaked hat and hook-nosed mask go
back to ancient Roman burlesque, in
which a bawdy clown, Macchus, was
one of the stock characters. He is
the prototype of Punch and similar
anarchic puppets around the world.
Presepi
2
The tradition of creating
sculpted tableaux of Christ’s birth
(presepi) has risen to a high art in
Naples ever since the 1700s. Many
sculptors create scenes that expand
far beyond the central event and
include features of everyday life – Un Turco Napoletano, starring Totò
Pulcinella might be represented
Totò
slapping the current 6
mayor, for example. This rubber-faced comedian
was the quintessence of Italian
Sophia
3 humour. Until his death in 1967, “The
Loren
Prince of Laughter” made five films
An indefatigable a year, some of them comic master-
love goddess since pieces, including Un Turco Napoletano
her star began to (A Neapolitan Turk, 1953).
rise in 1957 in L’Oro
Pino Daniele
di Napoli (The Gold 7
of Naples), “La Known as the voice of Naples,
Loren” went on Pino Daniele was one of Italy’s most
to become a popular singer-songwriters. He was
Hollywood star. known abroad for his songs Quando
and Je so pazz. After his death, a street
Sophia Loren in Naples was named in his honour.



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Icons of Popular Culture ❮❮ 47

Massimo Troisi
8 TOP 10 OPERA LEGENDS
Embodying the heart of the
Neapolitan character, this actor
made international waves with Il
Postino (The Postman), nominated for
an Academy Award in 1995. Sadly,
after the film was completed, Troisi
died at the age of 41.












Gaetano Donizetti
Massimo Troisi 1 Teatro San Carlo
The oldest continuously working opera
Naples in the Movies
9 theatre in Europe is a UNESCO World
Heritage site (see p89).
Greats of the golden age of
Italian cinema all felt inspired to 2 Inauguration
communicate their impressions On 4 November 1737 the San Carlo was
of Naples. Notable films include inaugurated with Metastasio’s opera
Roberto Rossellini’s Viaggio in Italia Achille in Sciro.
(1954) and Francesco Rossi’s Mani 3 Castrati
Sulla Città (1963). An 18th-century Neapolitan speciality,
renowned castrati included Farinelli
Recent International
0 (Carlo Broschi) and Gian Battista Velluti.
Films
4 Fire
Naples and the coast have provided A February 1816 fire destroyed the San
the setting for films as diverse as Carlo. In a few months the theatre had
the fifth Star Wars instalment, which been rebuilt with perfect acoustics.
used the Royal Palace at Caserta 5 Ballet
for the queen’s abode, and Anthony San Carlo shares with La Scala the record
Minghella’s The Talented Mr Ripley, for the first Italian ballet school (1812).
some scenes of which were shot on 6 Gioacchino Rossini
the islands of Procida and Ischia. The composer was artistic director of the
opera house between 1815 and 1822.
7 Gaetano Donizetti
Donizetti composed 16 operas for the
San Carlo.
8 Vincenzo Bellini
In 1826 Bellini staged his first work at
the San Carlo, Bianca e Gerlando.
9 Giuseppe Verdi
The “god” of Italian opera wrote his first
opera for the theatre, Alzira, in 1845.
10 Enrico Caruso
Arguably the most famous tenor ever,
Caruso was born in Naples in 1873.
A scene from The Talented Mr Ripley





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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums and Galleries




















18th-century Nativity scene, Museo di San Martino, Naples
Museo di San Martino,
Museo Archeologico,
1 3
Naples
Naples
This monastery complex is home to An insurpassable museum for the
several collections of art. The range and beauty of its Greco-
Pinacoteca, comprising part of the Roman art, with important pieces
Prior’s Quarters, is notable for its unearthed in Rome and in towns
works from the Renaissance and around Vesuvius. The experience is
Baroque eras, many commissioned a total immersion in the life of the
for the monastery. On the upper ancients – their religious beliefs,
floors, 19th-century works convey sports, eating habits, and even their
the look and feel of Naples in the erotic peccadilloes (see pp18–21).
days of Italian Unification. A section
Capodimonte, Naples
devoted to Nativity scenes demon- 4
strates the power and beauty of this This world-class museum
Neapolitan art form (see pp26–9). also owes its main masterpieces to
the Farnese Collection. Paintings
Museobottega della
2 run the gamut from medieval to
Tarsialignea, Sorrento
contemporary; the porcelain collection
MAP D5 • Via S Nicola 28 • 081 877 also shouldn’t be missed (see pp22–3).
19 42 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–
Pinacoteca
6:30pm daily; Nov–Mar: 5
10am–5pm daily • Adm Girolamini,
Sorrento is known for Naples
its fine inlaid wood MAP P2 • Via Duomo
furniture and objects 142 • Open 9am–
(intarsio) and this 12:30pm Mon–Sat
museum is devoted For Neapolitan
to the delicate art. Baroque lovers, this
The collection is little-known gallery
housed in a beautiful is a must. Part of a
restored palace. monastic complex,
there are fine works
Inlaid wood desk at by Caracciolo, Vaccaro,
the Museobottega Giordano and Ribera.
della Tarsialignea

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