Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 49
Museo Nazionale della
6 rooms are the red hall furnished in
Ceramica Duca di
Louis XVI style, the smoking room
Martina, Naples with leather-lined walls and the
MAP J4 • Via Cimarosa 77 ballroom with its large mirrors and
• Open 8:30am–2pm; closed Tue magnificent chandeliers. Also of
• Adm • DA • www.coopculture.it particular interest is the Coach
Naples is famous for fine ceramic Museum. Today, the Villa Pignatelli
production and this museum often plays host to temporary
provides rich amplification of the exhibitions and concerts.
theme. Not only are exquisite Italian
Museo Archeologico
pieces found here, by Capodimonte 9
and Ginori artisans, but also there di Pithecusae, Ischia
are creations by the factories of MAP A4 • Corso Angelo Rizzoli 210,
Meissen, Limoges, Lacco Ameno • 081 99 61 03
Sèvres and Saint- • Open 9:30am–1:30pm; closed Mon
Cloud. Majolica • Adm
works, from Housed in the
medieval times 18th-century
onwards, are also Villa Arbusto,
well represented, exhibits illustrate
and the collection the history of
of Chinese and ancient Ischia,
Japanese ceramics, from prehistoric
from as far back as the to Roman times. Many
T’ang Dynasty, is one of objects date back to
the country’s best. Museo Archeologico di the 8th century BC,
Pithecusae figurine when Ischia was
Museo della
7 most famous pots were found at a
settled by Greeks. The
Carta, Amalfi
This fascinating museum, which is nearby necropolis; among these
set in a paper mill, preserves one of are a typical late geometric krater,
Europe’s first papermaking factories. decorated with a shipwreck scene.
Visitors can see the original stone
Museo Archeologico,
vats and machinery downstairs, and 0
there’s also an interesting exhibit Paestum
tracing the history and technical Among this museum’s beautiful
development of the paper industry treasures are ancient Greek tomb
over the centuries (see p36). paintings that were only discovered
on the site in 1968. Other finds
Museo Diego Aragona
8 include bronze vases, terracotta
Pignatelli Cortes,
Naples votive figures and various funerary
furnishings (see pp38–39).
MAP K6 • Riviera di Chiaia 200
• Open 8:30am–7pm Wed–
Mon • Adm
The striking Neo-Classical
Villa Pignatelli was built in
1826 by Pietro Valente for the
Acton family. The Roths childs
acquired the villa 20 years
later, then Prince Diego
Aragona Pignatelli Cortes
bought it and renamed the
house. In 1952 his grand-
daughter donated it to the
Italian state. The loveliest Tomb painting, Museo Archeologico, Paestum
048-049_Top_10_Naples.indd 49 20/09/2016 15:41
50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Churches in Naples
Duomo
3
The oldest wing of Naples’
cathedral is the city’s most ancient
surviving building, a Paleo-Christian
church dating from the 4th century.
The cathedral also has the oldest
baptistry in the western world, with
glorious mosaics. Archaeological
excavations here have revealed
structures reaching as far back as
the ancient Greeks (see pp16–17).
Monte di Pietà
4
MAP P2 • Via S Biagio 114
• Open 9am–7pm Sat (to 2pm Sun)
This majestic building and its
adjoining church were built in the
late 1500s as a charitable institute
set up to grant loans to the needy. In
return, the noblemen who provided
Santa Chiara’s majolica cloister this service were granted eternal
salvation. Decorated mostly in late-
Santa Chiara
1 Renaissance style, inside there are
The original church here
sculptures by Pietro Bernini and
was built in 1310 and, after various frescoes by Corenzio.
renovations, it has been returned to
Santa Maria Maggiore
its glorious Gothic style. The most 5
famous feature is the adjoining MAP N2 • Via dei Tribunali
convent’s 18th-century majolica • Open 9am–1pm Mon–Sat (adjacent
cloister (see p77). chapel only)
Nicknamed Pietrasanta (holy stone)
San Francesco di Paola
2 after its ancient stone marked
with a cross, thought to grant
A rarity in Naples, this Neo-
Classical structure imitates the indulgences to whoever kissed
Pantheon, Rome’s great pagan it, the original church here was
temple to the gods built in the 2nd built in the 10th and 11th centuries
century AD. Inside and out the and the bell tower is Naples’
basilica is austere, with the exception only example of early medieval
of the polychrome marble Baroque architecture. The present church,
altar that has many statues (see p87). however, is Baroque.
San Francesco di Paola, dominating Piazza del Plebiscito
050-051_Top_10_Naples.indd 50 20/09/2016 15:41
Churches in Naples ❮❮ 51
Pio Monte della
6 V. SALVATORE ROS A Museo
Misericordia
MAP Q2 • Via dei VIA E. PESSINA VIA DE I TR I BUN A LI
Tribunali 253 • 081 44 69 Dante V. S. BIAGIO V. DUOMO CORSO UMBERTO I
DEI LIBRAI
44/73 • Open 9am–2pm Montesanto PIAZZA PIAZZA
DANTE
Thu–Tue Stazione NICOLA V IA LAVI N AIO
AMORE
CORSO I
This charitable institution Montesanto UMBERTO
was founded in 1601, V. TOLEDO V. MONTEOLIVETO Università
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE
PIAZZA
inspired by Counter- G. BOVIO
VIA B. CROCE V. MEZZOCANNONE
Reformation precepts PIAZZA V. A. DIAZ VIA C. COLOMBO VIA NUOVA MARINA
CARITA
which gave weight to Toledo V. MEDINA VIA A. DEPRETIS
such works as a way of VI A TO LE D O MUNICIPIO Stazione
PIAZZA
ensuring salvation. The Municipio Marittima
church is set back from V. S. CARLO V. F. ACTON
the street by a five-arch PLEBISCITO
PIAZZA
loggia, where pilgrims VIA C H I AIA
could find shelter. The 2 km V. CONSOLE 0 metres 500
altarpiece, The Seven Acts V. MONTE DI DIO 0 yards 500
of Mercy by Caravaggio, is
an allegory of charitable
Santa Lucia
deeds. Upstairs is an art collection. 8
MAP N6 • Via Sta Lucia 3
• 081 764 09 43 • Open 8am–noon,
5–7:30pm daily
According to legend, a church stood
here in ancient times, but experts
date the earliest structure to the 9th
century. Destroyed and rebuilt many
times, the present church is postwar.
The artworks were des troyed during
World War II, save an 18th-century
statue of St Lucy and two paintings.
San Pietro ad Aram
9
MAP R2 • Corso Umberto I 192
• Open 8am-noon, 4–6:30pm Mon–
Fri; 8am–noon Sun
Tradition holds that St Peter
celebrated his first mass in Naples
here. The church is 12th-century,
Ceiling fresco, Certosa di San Martino but an early Christian church and
catacombs were unearthed in 1930.
Certosa di San Martino
7 Santa Maria del Parto
This sparkling white monastery
MAP J2 • Via Mergellina 21
complex commands the most perfect 0
location in the entire city, attesting to • Open 4:30–8pm daily
the wealth and power the monks The Neapolitan poet (and humanist)
once enjoyed. In the 17th and 18th Jacopo Sannazaro, ordered this
centuries they commissioned the church to be built in the 16th century
greatest artists of the day to embellish and his tomb behind the high altar is
their church and chambers in notable for its lack of Christian sym-
Baroque style – the church, in par- bolism. In a side chapel the painting
ticular, is a flamboyant catalogue of of the Archangel Michael searing the
colour and pattern, sporting at least “Mergellina Devil” records the spiritual
one work by each and every famous victory of a bishop when a woman
hand of the age (see pp26–7). proclaimed her love for him.
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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Piazzas and Fountains
Piazza Plebiscito,
1 (see p54), while the Sebeto Fountain,
Naples
a later work by Cosimo Fanzago,
MAP M5 marks the other terminus.
This vast, magnificent urban space
Fontana del Nettuno,
has been restored to its original 3
grandeur. On one side is the church Naples
of San Francesco di Paola (see p87), MAP P4
and on the other the Palazzo Reale Shifted from its home at Piazza
(see pp12–13). The royal equestrian Bovio in 2001, the beautiful Fountain
statues on the square are all the of Neptune now graces a wide spot
work of Canova. on Via Medina. The 16th-century
masterpiece is the work of three
artists, including Pietro Bernini.
Piazza Bellini, Naples
4
Without a doubt, this is central
Naples’ most charming square. With
inviting café tables lined up on the
sunny side and elegant architecture
facing all around, Piazza Bellini is
a favourite spot for intellectuals,
artists, students and anyone who
wants to take a break (see p79).
Fontana dell’ Immacolatella Piazza Dante, Naples
Fontana dell’
2 5
MAP N2
Immacolatella, Naples
Following Italian Unification, a statue
MAP K2 • Via Partenope, near Castel of the poet Dante was placed in the
dell’Ovo centre of the broad curve of this
Composed of three triumphal square, which was accordingly
arches, this Santa Lucia district renamed. Before that, the area was
landmark once adorned the Palazzo known as Largo del Mercatello,
Reale. It dates from 1601 and is when it was a major marketplace.
another creation of Pietro Bernini, as Today it is still a busy focal point of
well as Michelangelo Naccherino. the old part of the city.
This grand fountain stands at one
end of the seafront Lungomare Dante’s statue, Piazza Dante
052-053_Top_10_Naples.indd 52 20/09/2016 15:41
Piazzas and Fountains ❮❮ 53
Piazza Sannazzaro,
6 TOP 10 PARKS AND GARDENS
Naples
MAP K2
The nautical theme of the mermaid
and turtles fountain is appropriate,
as the nearby port is the main one
for embarking on a trip to the islands
of Capri, Ischia or Procida.
Piazza Duomo, Ravello
7
MAP E4
A visit to Ravello should begin in this
charming piazza, as there are a
number of different routes you can Gardens of Augustus, Capri
take from here. Staircases and ramped
walkways lead off in all directions. 1 Santi Marcellino e Festo Cloister,
Naples
La Piazzetta, Capri
8 MAP P3 • Largo S Marcellino 10
• Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri,
Magnetic at any time, this is
Capri’s most frequented spot. Marked 8am–2pm Sat
The site of former 8th-century
by a domed bell tower, it has many monasteries enjoys fine views.
cafés with tables outside, surroun ded
by whitewashed arcades (see pp34–5). 2 Orto Botanico, Naples
The “Royal Plant Garden” was founded
by Joseph Bonaparte in 1807 (see p79).
3 Capodimonte, Naples
Established by Charles III, this vast
royal park boasts numerous ancient
trees (see pp22–3).
4 Villa La Floridiana, Naples
These grounds have been a public
park since the 1920s (see p60).
5 Villa Comunale, Naples
This large public park is now
appreciated for its statuary and fine
structures (see p88).
La Piazzetta, Capri
6 Parco Virgiliano, Naples
Piazza Tasso, Sorrento
9 This hilltop position provides fine
panoramas (see p111).
MAP D5
The bustling heart of Sorrento, this 7 Caserta Park, Naples
piazza is the focal point of daily life. These 18th-century gardens were
influenced by Versailles (see p113).
Find a spot at a café surrounding the
square to take it all in. Constructed 8 La Mortella, Ischia
over a deep ravine, the square is MAP A4 • Via F Calise 39, Forio
• Open Mar–Nov: 9am–7pm
named after the 16th-century poet Tue–Thu, Sat–Sun • Adm
Torquato Tasso from Sorrento. From Ischia’s fabulous gardens include
the piazza, a steep road leads down rare species.
to Marina Piccola, where ferries 9 Gardens of Augustus, Capri
arrive and depart. MAP C5 • Via Matteotti
• Open dawn–dusk daily • Adm
Piazza Duomo, Amalfi
0 The island’s primary green spot.
MAP E5
Dominated by the steps up to the 10 Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
Many agree that the view from Villa
cathedral and the black-and-white Cimbrone is the most beautiful in the
design of the building and its bell world (see p37).
tower, this square is a hub of café life.
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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Walks
Wonderful landscape for walking on Capri
Capri
Decumano Maggiore
1 3
Once you break away from
MAP P2
In Roman times this street, now the smart shops and hotels, this
known as Via dei Tribunali, was the island is all about nature walks: up
main east–west artery of the city. to Villa Jovis, down to the Arco
Decumano Maggiore constitutes the Naturale, through the forest to the
heart of the old quarter and is Blue Grotto – the possibilities are
replete with unmissable sights, as numerous (see pp34–5).
well as intriguing shops and bars
Spaccanapoli
and cafés to while away the hours. 4
The colloquial name of this
Royal Naples
2 ancient street means “Splits
Naples”, which is exactly what it
MAP P4
For regal edifices and elegant cafés does, cutting the oldest part of the
and shops, this choice part of town is city right down the middle. Beginning
pedestrian-friendly. A good place to at the western end in Piazza del
start is the Fontana del Nettuno on Gesù Nuovo, a straight line takes you
Via Medina (see p50) and then head past some of the city’s finest monu-
towards the sea and west. This arc ments, and there are shops, bars,
takes in Castel Nuovo, Teatro San cafés and pizzerias (see pp76–85).
Carlo and Galleria Umberto I.
Lungomare
5
MAP N6
Beginning at the public gardens next
to the Palazzo Reale, take the
seaside road around the Santa Lucia
quarter and past some of Naples’
loveliest areas, including the island
of Castel dell’Ovo and the green
splendour of the Villa Comunale.
Via Toledo
6
MAP N3
From the royal quarter Via Toledo
Castel Nuovo, Naples begins elegantly, but soon the
054-055_Top_10_Naples.indd 54 20/09/2016 15:41
Walks ❮❮ 55
Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)
come up along the western flank – a TOP 10 DRIVES
warren of narrow, dark streets that
don’t seem to have changed in
centuries. However, continuing on
you’ll pass Piazza Dante and finally
come to the Museo Archeologico.
Sorrentine Peninsula
7
MAP D5
If you take the funivia (cable car) from
Castellammare di Stabia up to Monte
Faito there are startling views from Vietri from above
the top, as well as the beginning of
many nature trails, some of which 1 The Phlegrean Fields
eventually lead as far as Positano. MAP J2
Hug the coastline from Posillipo to
The Amalfi Coast
8 Pozzuoli and take local roads to
Agnano Terme and La Solfatara.
Hiking points can be reached
above Positano and between Ravello 2 Cumae
and AmalfiAtrani. Most of these MAP B3
paths are erstwhile goat trails – the Begin at Lago d’Averno and pass under
most famous is the Sentieri degli Dei the Arco Felice to arrive at Cumae.
(Path of the Gods) – while some have 3 Naples to Sorrento
been built up as stone stairways; all MAP E4
offer incomparable views (see p103). Cut off the tollway to Castellammare di
Stabia and take the picturesque road.
4 Sorrento to Positano
MAP D5
Follow the signs to Santa Agata sui
Due Golfi and then Colli di Fontanelle
to get your first glimpse of Positano.
5 Positano to Vietri
MAP E5
A single road “of 1,000 turns” winds
along this spectacular coast.
6 Amalfi to Ravello
MAP E5
Leave the coast road and climb up and
Walking the rim of Mount Vesuvius up for a vista unlike any other.
Vesuvius
9 7 Around Ischia
MAP B4
A walk along the rim of this
vast crater is an experience of a life A fairly good road rings the island.
time. Some 20,000 visitors a year trek 8 Marina Grande to Anacapri, Capri
MAP S1
to the top to peer into the steaming The cliff road is best experienced in the
depths 200 m (700 ft) below. The island’s classic open-top taxis.
steep hike up takes about 30 minutes 9 Naples to Caserta
and it’s at its best in late spring, when MAP D1
flowers are most vibrant (see p95). Getting up to this northern palace is
Ischia
0 well worth the effort.
10 Naples to Paestum
The walks and hikes on this
island are plentiful. A memorable MAP H6
Take the A3, then switch to the N19,
trek is up Monte Epomeo from Forio, direction Battipaglia. Take the right
through Fontana, taking about 40 fork for Paestum, the N18 south.
minutes (see p101).
Following pages Santa Maria Assunta Church, Positano
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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Beaches
hotels, but unless you are a hotel
resident you will have to pay for
this option. Elsewhere along the
peninsula there’s a fine beach to
the east, at Meta di Sorrento, while
to the west, there’s a small sandy
beach at Marina di Puolo and
another at Marina di Lobra (see p102).
Capri
4
There’s very little in the way of
sandy beaches here, although there
is a small one just up from Marina
One of many beaches on Procida Grande. A popular pebbly choice is
Marina Piccola, where facilities
Procida
1 include restaurants. The adventurous
This small island has several
should head down to the bottom of
good beach options. One of the Via Krupp, where huge flat stones lie
longest stretches from Chiaiolella along the shore (see pp34–5).
Marina to Ciriaccio, called the Lido,
is the island’s most popular beach so
expect crowds. From here a bridge
leads to the nature reserve of Vivara,
which has rocky access to the sea.
To the northeast, Pozzo Vecchio also
has a beach (see p102).
Posillipo and Beyond
2
MAP J2
The nearest beaches to the centre
of Naples that are of any appeal can View over the bay, Capri
be found at Posillipo, although
Ischia
they’re shingle, not sand, and the 5
water is far from immaculate. To gain access to any beach
Further away, at the ends of the here – at least the good parts – you
Cumana and Circumflegrea railways, will need to pay, but for around €15
there are more attractive sandy to €20 per day you receive the use of
beaches, although, again, they are a sunbed and an umbrella. There are
not especially pristine. plenty of beaches to choose from,
including sandy stretches in Forio
Sorrento
3 and Ischia Porto. More out-of-the-
way options include San Montano
In this resort town, bathing
platforms have been constructed, and Sorgeto (see p101).
with lifts or steps leading down
to them from several Pretty Ischia beach
058-059_Top_10_Naples.indd 58 20/09/2016 15:41
Beaches ❮❮ 59
TOP 10 SPAS
1 Terme di Agnano, Naples
MAP J2 • Via Agnano Astroni 24
A spa since ancient times. Mud-baths
and mineral waters.
2 Giardini Poseidon, Ischia
MAP B4 • Via Mazzella
Saunas, Jacuzzis, pools and treatments.
3 Negombo, Ischia
MAP A4 • Via Baia di S Montano,
Lacco Ameno
Surrounded by beautiful gardens with
Marina Grande beach, Amalfi
volcanic springs.
Amalfi
6 4 Parco Termale Aphro dite Apollon,
Ischia
Lined with colourful
umbrellas, the Marina Grande beach MAP A4 • Via Petrelle, Sant’Angelo
Pools, saunas and massage.
has a free area popular with locals.
Or take a short boat ride to the rocky 5 Terme Belliazzi, Ischia
Santa Croce beach (see p104). MAP A4 • Piazza Bagni 134,
Casamicciola
Positano
7 Mud treatments and massage.
6 Terme di Cava Scura, Ischia
Again, at this fashionable, busy
resort, payment is necessary for a MAP A4 • Via Cava Scura, Serrara
Fontana
sunbed and umbrella. For something Built into the cliffs, with a cave sauna
more independent take the path to and baths in sulphurous water.
the west, around the cliff, to the 7 Terme della Regina Isabella,
beach at Fornillo – it’s smaller and Ischia
rockier but more relaxed (see p104). MAP A4 • Piazza Sta Restituta,
Marina di Praia
8 Lacco Ameno
Luxury massage and treatments.
This small cove, just beyond
Positano, has a bit of beach you can 8 Capri Palace Hotel
Anacapri’s top hotel also has a spa and
generally call your own, as few beauty treatment centre (see p129).
tourists stop here. However you will 9 Hotel Capo La Gala, Vico Equense
share the cove with local fishing MAP D4 • Via Luigi Serio 8
boats, a couple of bar-restaurants, a Next to Spa Scrajo; enjoy the mineral
diving centre and the coast’s premier water swimming pool.
disco, Africana (see p107). 10 Terme di Stabia, Castellammare
Marina di Furore
9 di Stabia
MAP E4 • Viale delle Terme 3–5
MAP E5
Mud, mineral waters and massage.
A very precipitous path goes straight
down to this dramatic, tiny beach set
between the cliffs. A few fishermen’s
homes cluster here, with their boats
neatly moored along one side, and
there’s a bar-restaurant.
Erchie and Cetara
0
MAP F4
The beach at Erchie is a small cove
graced by a watchtower, fishing
boats and a few houses. At Cetara,
bathers share the narrow rocky strip Parco Termale Aphro dite Apollon
with boats, but it’s good for a dip.
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60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Romantic Spots
an excellent place for a
peaceful stroll, and the
main building now houses
a museum filled with a
number of delightful
treasures (see p53).
Ristorante
3
Da Adolfo,
Positano
MAP E5 • Via Laurito 40
• 089 87 50 22 • €€€
Terrace of Infinity, Villa Cimbrone Hidden away in a tiny cove
just east of Positano is the tranquil
Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
1 Laurito beach. Since 1966, this
beachside restaurant has been
Greta Garbo enjoyed her love
affair with the conductor Arturo serving freshly caught fish,
Toscanini in this lovely spot, declared mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves,
by American writer Gore Vidal to be and locally made wine with fresh
one of the most beautiful places on peaches. The restaurant offers a free
earth. Wander the maze-like gardens boat service for clients from
over terraced levels; the high light Positano’s main pier and the ride is
is the Terrace of Infinity, with five minutes. Sunbeds and umbrellas
breathtaking views (see p36). are available to rent, so arrive early
for a romantic day at the beach.
Villa La Floridiana,
2 Le Sirenuse, Positano
Naples
In the heart of Positano, Le
MAP J4 • Via Domenico Cimarosa 77 4
• Open 8:30am–2pm (to 7pm Sirenuse has earned its reputation
in summer) as one of the most romantic hotels
Lucia Migliaccio, Duchess of Floridia, on the Amalfi Coast. Even if you’re
once called this sumptuous place not a guest, you can enjoy an
home – a love token from her unforgettable meal with a view at
husband, Ferdinand I, whose the Michelin-starred La Sponda
morganatic wife she became soon restaurant (see p131).
after the death of his first wife, Maria
Carolina of Austria. Not only is the
story romantic but the situation itself
affords some of the finest views of
the city and the bay. The gardens are
Balcony at Le Sirenuse,
Positano
060-061_Top_10_Naples.indd 60 20/09/2016 15:41
Romantic Spots ❮❮ 61
Naturale, but the terrace tables
also enjoy an eye-popping view
straight down to the sea, along a
precipitous ravine. In addition, the
friendly owners do their best to
make any meal a memorable event.
Villa Eva Resort,
8
Anacapri
Set amid subtropical gardens, this
resort consists of a main house and
bungalows. Each accommodation is
unique and there’s a wonderful grand
piano-shaped pool (see p128).
Garden of Augustus,
9
Capri
Coastline at Marechiaro Capri is an island of romance, but
the views from the Gardens of
Marechiaro
5 Augustus makes it one of the most
This little fishing village
romantic spots. The gardens are
between the tip of Capo di Posillipo perfect for admiring the Faraglioni
and Punta del Cavallo is famous with rocks, zigzagging Via Krupp and
locals for its time-tested romantic mesmerizing turquoise sea (see p35).
atmosphere. The vista from here is
said to be so gorgeous that even the
fish come here to woo their sweet-
hearts, especially by the light of the
moon. There are many excellent and
inviting restaurants clustered around
the prime viewing spot, all spe-
cializing in fish, of course (see p111).
Monastero Santa Rosa,
6
Conca dei Marini
MAP E5 • Via Roma 2 • 089 832 11 99
With a secluded setting, this former
monastery is the dream hotel for a
romantic escape on the Amalfi Coast.
Wander hand in hand through the
terraced gardens or enjoy a dip in
the beautiful infinity pool (see p130).
Garden of Augustus, Capri
Le Grottelle Restaurant,
7 Villa Maria Restaurant,
Capri
Ravello
MAP U1 • Via Arco Naturale • 081 0
837 57 19 • Closed mid-Nov–Mar, MAP E4 • Via Sta Chiara 2 • 089 85 72
Tue (not Jul–Aug) • €€ 55 • DA • €€
The cuisine here is simple, home- Such a beautiful view from the vine-
made fare that includes seafood, covered garden deserves superb food,
pasta, chicken and perhaps rabbit, and that is just what you find here.
while the wine is local and very The restaurant, part of the Hotel Villa
creditable. What makes it so romantic Maria (see p130), is one of Ravello’s
is the unsurpassed setting. Not only best, specializing in fresh fish and
is it close to nature, being situated seafood as well as local wines; try
almost all the way down to the Arco the incredible lemon mousse.
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p85
060-061_Top_10_Naples.indd 61 20/09/2016 15:41
62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Off the Beaten Track
Green Grotto, Capri
San Gaudioso
1 3
Catacombs
MAP U2
On the other side of the island from MAP K1 • Basilica of Sta Maria della
its far more famous sibling, the Blue Sanità, Via della Sanità 124 • Guided
Grotto (see p35), this smaller cave tours: every hour between 10am and
glows emerald green once you duck 1pm • Adm
inside. The best way to get here is to This labyrinth of underground
rent a kayak at Punta Carena and tunnels was built by the Romans
then make your way past Marina for use as cisterns. It evolved into
Piccola towards the Faraglioni rocks. catacombs in the 5th century, when
St Gaudiosus, a North African bishop
and hermit, was interred here.
Visitors can see the remains of
fresco and mosaic decorations.
Spiaggia di Fornillo,
4
Positano
Few know that there’s a pleasant
alternative to the crowded main
beach at Positano, with its rows of
sunbeds and umbrellas. To get to
Fornillo, head west on the path past
the ‘O Guarracino restaurant, around
the cliff. It’s a rocky beach, over
looked by two towers, but there’s a
caférestaurant and facilities (see p59).
Cimitero delle
5
Fontanelle
MAP K1 • Via delle Fontanelle 154
• 081 29 69 44 • Open by appt only
Once a Roman quarry for tufa blocks,
this cavern became a gruesome
Green Grotto entrance, Capri depository for the city’s dead during
the cholera epidemic of 1884. Graves
Napoli Sotterranea
2 and tombs were emptied all over
Naples and the skulls stacked here –
MAP P2 • Piazza S Gaetano 68
• 081 40 02 56 • Guided tours in some 40,000 in all, with the addition
English: 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm of still more during the cholera
and 6pm • Adm outbreak of 1974.
This tour’s entrance is next to San
Paolo Maggiore (see p80) and takes
you into a world of excavations that
date back to the 4th century BC
(bring a jacket as it can be cool). The
digging began when the Greeks
quarried large tufa blocks to build
the city of Neapolis. Caves were also
dug here to be used as tombs.
Centuries later the Romans turned
this underground area into aqueducts
and cisterns, which were in use until
the cholera epidemic of 1884. Skulls, Cimitero delle Fontanelle
062-063_Top_10_Naples.indd 62 20/09/2016 15:41
Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 63
containing the ashes of the
deceased. The Romans later took
to burying their dead in sarcophagi
(coffins), as the fashion changed
to belief in an afterlife, perhaps
adopted from the Egyptians. Next
to the tomb are a tufa quarry and
a crypta (tunnel), built as an under-
ground road in the 1st century.
Parco Sommerso, Baia
9
MAP B3 • Glass-bottom boat
tours or land tours: call 349 497 41 83
or visit www.baiasommersa.it; diving
and snorkelling tours: call 081 853
15 63
Most of the ancient city of Baia now
Colourful galleries, at MADRe lies underwater, due to the shifting
of the coastline and slow seismic
MADRe
6 disturbances. What you can still
make out just below the surface
MAP P1 • Via Settembrini 79
• 081 193 130 16 • Open 10am– of the water are remnants of the
7:30pm Wed–Mon (to 8pm Sun) • Adm grandiose port and parts of various
Housed in a 14th-century church, villas and temples (see p112).
this museum aims to bring contem-
porary art to the forefront. Exhibitions
from the 1940s onwards contrast with
the surrounding history of Naples.
Permanent exhibitions include the
Historical Collection, exploring
artistic language.
Sibyl’s Grotto, Cumae
7
Although some experts believe
that this magnificent structure once
served a military purpose in Roman
times, others hold with a mytho-
logical origin. Walking along the
unusual wedge-shaped walls, which
are pierced at intervals with shafts San Gennaro Catacombs
of light, creates a decidedly hypnotic
San Gennaro Catacombs
effect on most visitors, as if in 0
preparation for an encounter with MAP K1 • Via Capodimonte 13
the great oracle herself (priestess • Guided tours: every hour between
of Apollo) in her grotto (see p113). 10am & 7pm Mon–Sat, between 10am
& 1pm Sun and public hols • Adm
Tomb of Virgil and
8 Burials here date back to the 2nd
Crypta Neapolitana
century and the site was originally
MAP K2 • Salita della Grotta 20, used by pagans as well as Christians.
Mergellina • Open 9am–5pm In the 5th century, the body of San
Tue–Sun Gennaro, Naples’ patron saint, was
What is known as Virgil’s tomb is a brought here, and the place became
Roman burial vault that dates back an important pil grimage site.
to the Augustan age. It is a typical Frescoes and mosaics on the two
columbarium, the “dovecote” style levels of this vast layout attest to its
of burial, with niches for urns importance over the centuries.
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64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Children’s Attractions
Villa Comunale
1
This major urban park in
central Naples has a playground
specifically designed for little ones
and there are always plenty of families
enjoying the gardens and walkways.
But the biggest attraction for young
sters may be the Stazione Zoologica
(Zoological Institute), the oldest
aquarium in Europe, featuring sea
life from the Bay of Naples (see p88).
Science City
2
A handson, interactive
“experimentorium”, with something
for everyone, even the very young.
Included in the exhibits are a Exhibit, Pietrarsa Railway Museum
planetarium (booking ahead is
Pietrarsa Railway
compulsory and incurs an extra fee) 4
as well as uptodate computer Museum
gizmos, all of which seem to tran MAP D3 • Via Pietrarsa, Portici
scend language barriers (see p114). • 081 567 23 02 • Open 8:30am–
12:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm
The first railway in Italy was
inaugurated by King Ferdinand II in
1839 and 150 years later the railway
workshop was opened as a museum.
The museum is the largest of its
kind in Europe and has impressive
displays, including a reconstruction
of the first royal train here and a
lineup of later carriages, many
of them lavishly gilded.
Edenlandia
5
Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton, MAP J2 • Viale Kennedy,
Centro Musei delle Scienze Naturali Fuorigrotta • 081 239 40 90
• Open Jul: 5pm–midnight Tue–Sun
Centro Musei delle
3 (to 10:30pm Sun); Aug: 10:30pm–
Scienze Naturali
midnight daily; hours vary rest of the
MAP P3 • Via Mezzocannone 8 & year – phone or check website for
Largo S Marcellino 10 • 081 253 75 87 details • Adm • edenlandiapark.it
• Open 9am–1:30pm Mon–Fri (also This traditional amusement park
open 3–5pm Mon & Thu) might be showing its age a bit and
The Università di Napoli Federico II isn’t giving Disney any competition,
houses five museums in one but kids of all ages will enjoy its
building. Sedimentologists will love attractions. Rides include a Big
the Mineralogy and Geology sections; Dipper, a Ghost Train, a Canoe Flume
the Zoology rooms will appeal to and Bumper Cars, as well as several
animal lovers; the Palaeonotology more hightech options. An old
Museum has dinosaur exhibits; and fashioned choice that never fails to
the Anthropology and Physics areas delight is Le Nuvole, a theatre group
are extremely fascinating. that features puppets and mime.
064-065_Top_10_Naples.indd 64 20/09/2016 15:41
Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 65
Ospedale delle Bambole
Zoo di Napoli
6 9
MAP P2 • Via S Biagio dei
MAP C3 • Via J F Kennedy 76
• 081 193 631 54 • Open Apr–Oct: Librai 81 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri
9:30am–7pm; Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm Children are captivated by the Doll
• Adm • www.lozoodinapoli.com Hospital, both for the concept as
Home to 409 different animals, the well as for the array of dolls that are
Naples zoo allows visitors to see and here waiting to be “cured”. Adults,
pet them up close and, in some cases, too, will find this unique workshop
even get in the pens along with the fascinating, with some pieces in the
zookeepers. There are also educa- collection qualifying as museum-
tional activities organized for kids. quality treasures. There is also a
shop, so your child won’t necessarily
Solfatara
7 have to say goodbye to a new-found
friend at the end of the visit.
Another phenomenal
geothermal playground that will
fascinate budding geologists. This
congealed lava cap plugging up a
dormant volcano is an expanse of
hissing, fuming, bubbling terrain like
nothing you will have seen before.
There’s a camp site with restaurant
right on the spot – you soon get used
to the sulphur smell (see p114).
Marina Piccola Beach,
8
Capri
One of the most child-friendly beaches Dolls, Ospedale delle Bambole
in the area: the water is tranquil and
Vesuvius
the bathing areas well protected. For 0
all the water toys and gear you might No child will ever forget a
require, there are lots of shops handy, trip up the cone of this killer volcano
and a wide choice of places to eat. and a peek over the rim into the
Changing rooms, umbrellas and steaming abyss far below. It’s a fairly
sunbeds are available, too (see p34). short, steep walk – only about half
an hour – and the thrill will stay with
Marina Piccola Beach, Capri them for years (see p95).
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66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Neapolitan Dishes
Contorni
1
The fertility of the land around
Naples is most evident when you
taste the produce it brings forth. For
contorni (side dishes), peppers, arti
chokes, aubergine (eggplant), capers,
mush rooms and green beans are
offered steamed or sautéed. Expect
the freshness to have been retained
fully, cooked with a touch of garlic,
tomato or lemon, and herbs.
Primo
2
This course usually means
pasta or rice, but minestre and zuppe Insalata caprese
(soups) also appear in this category. the wonderful salads (insalata) here,
Great primi to look out for are there are two famous cold dishes
spaghetti alle vongole veraci (with from the area. The insalata caprese is
clams), pasta e fagioli (with beans), the essence of simplicity, relying on
fettucine alla puttanesca (egg noodles quality mozzarella di bufala, tomatoes
with tomato, capers, black olives and and aromatic basil. Caponata may
red pepper) and risotto alla pescatora include marinated aubergine (egg
(rice with seafood). plant), artichoke hearts and capers,
with bread to soak up the flavours.
Pizza
5
Perhaps it’s the water, or the
quality of the flour or yeast used, but
Neapolitan pizza is inimitable. It’s
spongy, chewy, succulent and melts
in your mouth, while the toppings are
flavourful and aromatic. Purists
insist that it was invented here cen
turies ago and that the only true pizza
Spaghetti alle vongole veraci is the margherita – tomato, basil and
mozzarella cheese, with olive oil.
Secondo
3
Main course dishes come in
two varieties, mare (sea) and terra Neapolitan pizza
(land). Fresh seafood, especially
vongole (clams) and cozze
(mussels), are popular along the
coast. Meat dishes are varied
and include polpette
(meatballs), salsiccia
(sausage) with broccoli
and coniglio (rabbit), a
speciality on Ischia.
Insalata
4
Besides the host of
fresh leaves and cherry
tomatoes that end up in
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Neapolitan Dishes ❮❮ 67
Fish and Seafood
6 TOP 10 LOCAL DRINKS
This category is the area’s
strong point. Calamari (squid) are a 1 White Wine
favourite, as are cozze (mussels) in a Campania wines are of a very high
variety of presentations. Seppie (cuttle quality. Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and
fish) and polipo (octopus) are popular, Lacryma Christi are reliable names.
too, stewed, fried or steamed. Pesce 2 Red Wine
all’acqua pazza (fish in “crazy water”) is Full-bodied reds come from the local
a treat – fresh fish stewed in water Aglianico grape.
with tomatoes, garlic and chillies. 3 Liqueurs
The most famous of these is the lemon
Formaggi
7 liqueur limoncello, which delivers quite
a kick.
Mozzarella di bufala is the sig
nature cheese from the area. The milk 4 Beer
of the buffalo has a tangy quality and All major brands are available, but a
the cheese a unique smoothness. local Italian favourite is Peroni. If you
The smoked version is provola. want draught, ask for alla spina.
5 Mineral Water
Italians enjoy a huge array of mineral
waters. A great choice is Ferrarelle –
or for something lighter, Uliveto.
6 Digestivi
Many restaurants produce their own
digestive concoctions – pure alcohol
with a soothing mixture of spices
and flavourings.
7 Coffee
Neapolitan-style coffee traditionally
comes already sweetened, and it is
generally very concentrated.
Antipasti of olives and cured meats
8 Soft Drinks
Antipasti
8 The usual range of choices is available,
but an interesting Italian cola-type
The first course may be mari
nated fish or seafood, a selection of drink is Chinotto.
olives and cured meats, bruschetta 9 Infusioni
(toasted bread) with various toppings Camomilla (camomile) is considered to
or prosciutto (ham) with figs or be a relaxant, while other herbal teas
melon, depending on the season. on offer include menta (peppermint)
and tiglio (lime-tree).
Dolci
9 10 Spremute
Most bars are set up, in summer, to
Many Neapolitan desserts are
inspired by their Sicilian cousins, turn out freshly squeezed orange juice
and a local version of lemonade.
notably delizie, a creamfilled cake,
and pannacotta (cooked cream),
perhaps topped with fresh fruit. In
season, the melon, figs and wild
strawberries are unforgettable.
Pastries
0
A sfogliatella (pastry filled with
ricotta cheese) is a sublime way to
start the day, accompanied by a cup
of coffee. Other treats include babà
(cake soaked in rum and honey) and
zeppole (pastry filled with custard Limoncello for sale
and topped with wild cherries).
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68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Neapolitan Souvenirs
Copies of Antiquities
Coral and Cameos
1 4
The tradition of miniature
Believe it or not, souvenir
carvings in stone is an ancient one – stalls outside archaeological sites –
the Romans (and their Renaissance notably Pompeii – can be good
imitators) used precious and sources of creditable copies of
semiprecious stones, from agate to famous Roman sculptures, but
emerald, as well as layered glass. you’ll need to pick through the junk
Today the tradition (see p96) primarily and be prepared to bargain.
focuses on gems from the sea. Coral
Ceramics
is prized for its rich colours and soft 5
texture, while shells are fashioned Ceramics – both copies of
into delicate cameos. traditional designs and
original creations – are
Handmade
2 notable in Capri,
Paper and
Ravello and Vietri.
Cards
Gouaches
Amalfi was once 6
home to a thriving Gouache is a
paper industry, which watercolour paint
features at the Museo applied to heavy
della Carta (see p47). paper that gives a
The tradition is still on very soft yet vibrant
display in local shops look to the surface of a
selling handmade A traditional painting. In the 19th
paper, stationery and ceramic plate century gouache land
beautiful journals. scapes of Naples, its
bay and Vesuvius were produced in
Antiques
3 great numbers and many are still
available at reasonable prices. These
The area remains one of
the great sources for antiques; were the postcard souvenirs for
especially plentiful are Baroque and Grand Tour visitors, and to the
Rococo furniture, as well as Empire modern eye they evoke a sense of
pieces. Antique ceramics, too, are a idyllic charm. There are also prints
good buy, notably handpainted tiles. of the more famous scenes.
Gold
7
Italian artisans
have been famed for
centuries for their
goldwork. Neapolitan
artists have inherited
these traditions since
ancient times and local
jewellery shops attest to
the beauty of their
creations. All gold used
is at least 18 carat and
prices are comparable
with those in other
countries, while the
quality is higher. Head
for Borgo degli Orefici,
Shopping for antiques in Naples the Goldsmiths’ District.
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Neapolitan Souvenirs ❮❮ 69
TOP 10 MARKETS
1 La Pignasecca, Naples
MAP M3 • Via Pignasecca
• 8am–1pm daily
One of Naples’ oldest markets and
as cheap as it gets.
2 San Pasquale, Naples
MAP K6 • Via S Pasquale
• 8am–2pm Mon, Wed, Fri–Sat
Spices, fish, clothing and jewellery.
Figures depicting a nativity scene
3 Fiera Antiquaria Napoletana,
Nativity Figures
8 Naples
MAP K6 • Villa Comunale
For centuries Naples has
been internationally noted for its • 7am–2pm 3rd Sun of month
As much junk as antiques, but great fun.
production of figures for nativity
scenes, many produced by the very 4 Atignano, Naples
MAP K2 • Via Luca Giordano,
best sculptors, especially in the 18th Vomero • 8am–2pm Mon–Sat
century, and reproduced to this day Household items.
by skilled artisans whose botteghe
(workshops) line the streets of the 5 Poggioreale
MAP L1 • Via M di Caramanico
old town. A popular secular figure, • 8am–2pm Mon, Fri–Sat
done in a variety of media, including Piles of everything, especially shoes.
terracotta, papier mâché, wood, or a 6 Posillipo
combination of materials, is Pulcinella MAP K1 • Viale Virgilio
(see p44). There are also delightful • 8am–2pm Thu
puppets, dolls and masks. Clothing, shoes and bags.
7 Resina, Ercolano
MAP L2 • Via Pugliano
• 8am–1pm daily
Roman “antiques”.
8 Mercato delle Pulci, Poggioreale
MAP K1 • Via de Roberto
• 8am–1pm Sun
As much trash as treasure, but you’re
sure to find something.
9 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, Naples
MAP R1 • 7am–2pm daily
A mind-boggling range of stuff.
10 Market in Amalfi
MAP E5 • 8am–1pm Wed (except Aug)
Cobbler crafting sandals, Capri Clothing and food; a truly local
shopping experience.
Handmade Sandals,
9
Capri
There are a number of cobblers on
the island of Capri (see p106) who
will make made-to-measure sandals
within a matter of hours.
Intarsio, Sorrento
0
Renowned for centuries for
its gorgeous intarsio (marquetry),
Sorrento continues the tradition to
this day, and some of the pieces are Fresh produce at Amalfi market
true works of art.
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70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Naples and the
Amalfi Coast for Free
Views over Marina Grande, Sorrento, with Mount Vesuvius on the horizon
Via Positanesi
Marina Grande, Sorrento
1 5
d’America, Positano
MAP D5
Sorrento’s Marina Grande harbour MAP E5
is one of the most charming spots Connecting Positano’s Spiaggia
in town, with its rows of colourful Grande with the more secluded
fishing boats bobbing in the water Spiaggia di Fornillo (see p62), this
and multihued homes that were cliff-hugging pathway is one of the
once home to fisherman. prettiest walks on the Amalfi Coast.
Galleria Umberto I,
Castel dell’Ovo, Naples
2 6
Naples
With a scenic setting on an
islet in the Bay of Naples, entrance The soaring glass roof, Neo-
to the Castel dell’Ovo is free, and Renaissance designs and marble
everyone in the family will enjoy floors of the Galleria Umberto I
exploring the castle while taking in make this 19th-century shopping
the outstanding views (see p88). gallery worth seeing for its
architecture alone (see p88).
Villa Romana, Minori
3
For a glimpse of ancient
Roman history on the Amalfi Coast,
visit the ruins of a wealthy family
villa that have been excavated in
the heart of Minori (see p105).
Spaccanapoli, Naples
4
MAP P2
This narrow main street cuts straight
through the historic centre of the city
and captures the vibrant atmosphere
that is Naples. Enjoy a stroll past
fine monuments while visiting free
churches like the Gesù Nuovo and
San Domenico Maggiore (see p80).
Today the street is officially named
Via Benedetto Croce and moving
east it changes to Via S Biagio dei
Librai (see pp76–85). Galleria Umberto I, Naples
070-071_Top_10_Naples.indd 70 20/09/2016 15:41
Naples and the Amalfi Coast for Free ❮❮ 71
Auditorium Oscar
7 TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
Niemeyer, Ravello
MAP E4 • Via della Repubblica 12
• 089 85 83 60
This rare example of modern design
is named after its creator, Brazilian
architect Oscar Niemeyer. While only
open for events, its large terrace
offers the same outstanding views
you would pay to see at the Villa
Rufolo nearby.
Arco Naturale, Capri
8
MAP C5
While the price tag of many of Capri’s
sights can shock, the natural beauty
is as easy on the eyes as it is on the Street food, Naples
Views over Marina Grande, Sorrento, with Mount Vesuvius on the horizon budget. For a beautiful walk, follow 1 Naples is famous for its street food,
signs from the Piazzetta in Capri which is a delicious way to save money
Town to the Arco Naturale (see p34). and experience local specialities.
2 Visit Naples from October to April
(but not Christmas) when low-season
rates and discounts will delight the
budget-minded traveller.
3 Note that many hotels and
restaurants on the Amalfi Coast and
Capri close during the winter, however,
rates are often lower for the shoulder
season October to November and
February to March.
4 Most beaches have a spiaggia libera
area where you do not have to pay to
access the beach.
5 Parking can be exceedingly
expensive and limited on the Amalfi
Coast, so traveling by public transport
is recommended.
6 Save money on visits to many sights
Arco Naturale, Capri in Naples and throughout the region
with the Campania Artecard, see
Duomo, Naples
9 www.campaniartecard.it.
While there is an admission
charge to visit the cathedral’s 7 Take the Circumvesuviana train
for an inexpensive way to travel
museum and archaeological area, it between Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii
is free to visit the soaring nave of the and Herculaneum.
Duomo and the dazzling Cappella di 8 The ferry between Positano and
San Gennaro (see pp16–17). Amalfi is an affordable way to see
the beauty of the Amalfi Coast from
Villa Comunale, Naples
0 the sea.
This 18th-century urban park
was designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, the 9 Alibus runs a cheap shuttle from the
Naples airport to the Napoli Centrale
mastermind behind the grandiose train station and port.
Reggia di Caserta. With playgrounds, 10 Many museums and archaeological
classic statues and beautiful views, sites offer a free open day during the
it’s a family friendly spot to while week or month.
away an afternoon (see p88).
070-071_Top_10_Naples.indd 71 20/09/2016 15:41
72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Religious Celebrations
processions are held
around the Naples area,
with an especially rich one
on the island of Procida.
Pasquetta is traditionally
a day for outings – picnics
being a top choice to cele-
brate the advent of spring.
Near Sant’Anastasia, 15
km (9 miles) east of
Naples, a festival is held
at the sanctuary of the
Madonna dell’Arco.
4
La Befana, festival of the Epiphany San Gennaro
The Saturday before
La Befana
1 the first Sunday in May is the first
of a thrice-yearly event. During this
6 Jan
In Italy the festival of the Epiphany is celebration, the blood of Naples’
personified by La Befana, a witch- patron saint – who has seen the city
like hag flying in on a broom who through earthquakes, volcanic erup-
delivers gifts to good children and tions and football championships –
puts “lumps of coal” (actually sweets) flows again. The miracle is received
in the shoes of naughty ones. with a hysteria seldom seen in this
day and age – a manifestation of
Carnevale
2 age-old faith that involves flower-
bedecked processions of the saint’s
Feb
Pulcinella (see p44) is lord of this effigy through the old quarter.
blow-out in Naples, just before the
San Giovanni
austerities of Lent begin. Lasagne is 5
the dish to indulge in, and masks 24 Jun
and partying are very much a part of The feast day of St John the Baptist
this age-old celebration. Kids get the also sometimes sees his blood boil –
chance to choose their fantasy persona a phial of it is ensconced in the
and parade around in their finery. church of San Gregorio Armeno
(see p80). Otherwise, the saint is
traditionally remembered in
charmingly pagan ways, linked to
the summer solstice: night bathing,
magicians and the gathering of
walnuts to make nocino, a liqueur
prepared for late autumn.
Santa Maria del Carmine
6
15–17 Jul
Pucinella figurines, Carnevale Every summer, Naples’ tallest bell
tower is “burned” in commem-
Pasqua
3 oration of a legend that recounts
how an icon kept here, the Madonna
Mar or Apr
In Italy, Pasqua (Easter Sunday) and Bruna, saved it from being destroyed
Pasquetta (Easter Monday) are both by fire. An array of fireworks are
important, as is the week leading up dramatically set off at the climax
to them in some towns. Good Friday of the festivities (see p80).
072-073_Top_10_Naples.indd 72 20/09/2016 15:41
Religious Celebrations ❮❮ 73
Ferragosto
7 TOP 10 SECULAR FESTIVALS
15 Aug
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary
marks the height of the summer
season, when most shops and
restaurants close in the city (although
not on the coast). Pozzuoli stages a
contest of climbing a greased pole,
while Positano re-enacts a landing
of Saracen corsairs.
Madonna di Piedigrotta
8
Sep
Once a fancy affair, today the event Festival delle Ville Vesuviane
involves a song competition and 1 Regata Storica, Amalfi
theatrical events, plus Jun
fireworks and street Every four years Amalfi hosts a boat
parties. It all centres on a race against Venice, Pisa and Genoa.
14th-century sculpture of 2 Culture Week
the Madonna and Child. Apr
For one week publicly owned museums,
L’Immacolata
9 historic and archaeological sites are free.
8 Dec
Celebrating the 3 Maggio dei Monumenti
May
Immaculate Conception, Churches and buildings usually closed
this festival opens the to the public open for one week.
Christmas season; 4 Estate a Napoli
nativity scenes and Summer in Naples includes outdoor
decorations go up films, theatre and music.
and the Guglia dell’ 5 Concerti al Tramonto,
Immacolata (see p78) Villa San Michele, Anacapri
in Piazza del Gesù May–Aug
Guglia becomes the focal This genteel villa is the venue for
dell’Immacolata point of activity. sunset classical concerts (see p35).
6 Music Festival of Villa Rufolo,
Natale
0 Ravello
24–25 Dec
Jun–Sep
At Christmas the streets around San A rich calendar of music, theatre and
Gregorio Armeno (see p80) are full of dance in evocative settings (see p37).
shoppers looking for items to com- 7 Neapolis Festival
plete their nativity scenes, and Jul
concerts take place in the churches. Southern Italy’s largest rockfest
invades the area of Bagnoli.
8 Festival delle Ville Vesuviane
Jul
The aristocratic villas along this coast
play host to classical concerts (see p96).
9 Pizzafest, Naples
Sep
A celebration of the city’s famous dish,
as pizza-makers spin their dough.
10 Capodanno, Naples
31 Dec
New Year’s Eve involves merrymaking
and fireworks over Castel dell’Ovo.
Christmas nativity scene
072-073_Top_10_Naples.indd 73 20/09/2016 15:41
Naples and the
Amalfi Coast
Area by Area
Procida, crammed with ancient
buildings painted in lively colours
074-075_Top_10_Naples.indd 74 20/09/2016 15:41
Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte 76
Toledo to Chiaia 86
Vesuvius and Around 94
The Islands, Sorrento
and the South 100
Posillipo, Pozzuoli
and the North 110
074-075_Top_10_Naples.indd 75 20/09/2016 15:41
76 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Spaccanapoli to
Capodimonte
The ancient heart of the city is celebrated for its
striking juxtaposition of chaos and consummate
artistry, but most of all for the sheer, boundless
energy of the Neapolitan spirit. In many ways, it
is an atavistic realm, ruled by its past, including
innumerable disasters, but it is also a city with
an awareness of its abiding glories, and Old
Naples has opened anew to the world. Its
narrow streets are much safer and cleaner
than before and its erstwhile dilapidated,
shut-away treasures are now restored and far
better organized, without losing any of their
uniquely vibrant feeling. Spaccanapoli is
the colloquial name for the long, narrow
street that runs from Via Duomo to Via
Monteoliveto and is the remnant of an
Statue, Museo Archeologico ancient Greco-Roman thoroughfare.
AREA MAP OF SPACCANAPOLI TO CAPODIMONTE
PIAZETTAPIAZETTA
Spaccanapoli to CavourCavour SETTEMBRINISETTEMBRINI V. CIRILLO Real Bosco diReal Bosco di North NaplesNorth Naples
Spaccanapoli to
V. CIRILLO
VIA F O RI A
Capodimon
VI A L UI GI SETT E M B R IN
Capodimontete VIA F O RI A VI A L UI GI SETT E M B R IN I I VIA CARBONARA CapodimonteCapodimonte
VIA MARIA LONGO
PIAZZAPIAZZA A56 A56
VIA CARBONARA
CAVOURCAVOUR VIA MARIA LONGO VICO DONNAREGINA V IA L OFFRE DI CapodimonteCapodimonte
VI A SS . APOSTOL I
MuseoMuseo V. S. GIOVANNI VICO S. PETRILLO VI A SS . APOSTOLI V. O. COSTA CAPODIMONTECAPODIMONTE
V. O. COSTA
V IA L OFFRE DI
OrtoOrto
VICO DONNAREGINA
PIAZZA MUSEO VICO S. VICO S. V. L. ARMANNI VICO LIMONCELLO V I A D U O M O VICO S. CAPUANO VICO S. MA TRINCHERA VICO S. MARIA VICO S. MARIA VERGINIVERGINI BotanicoBotanico
PIAZZA MUSEO
V. S. GIOVANNI
VIA ANTICAGLIA
VICO S. PETRILLO
VICO LIMONCELLO
AD ADNONE
AD ADNONE
V. PIETRO
TRINCHERA
V. L. ARMANNI
VIA S. VIA S. COST ANT IN O PO GAUDIOSO GAUDIOSO VIA ANTICAGLIA VICO S. MARIA VERTECOELI
V I A D E I T R I B U N A
V. PI S ANELLI
V I A D U O M O
VIAVIA COST ANT IN O POL I VI A S . MARIA DI L I VI A S . MARIA DI DE CRECCHIO VICO LUIGI Palazzo delloPalazzo dello
BROGGIA V. PI S ANELLI V I C O S. PE TRI L LO V I A D E I T R I B U N A L I L I AVVOCATAAVVOCATA SpagnoloSpagnolo
BROGGIA
VICO S. CAPUANO
VICO LUIGI
DE CRECCHIO
V I A S A P I E N Z A
V I A S A P I E N Z A VIA ATRI VIA ATRI VIA SAN PAOLO VIA SAN PAOLO
V. PIETRO RIA VERTECOELI
V I C O S. PE TRI L LO
V. CONTE DI RUVO
V. CONTE DI RUVO Area of Spaccanapoli toArea of Spaccanapoli to
V I A D E I T R I B U N A
V IA F .
SA VER
CORR VIA BELLINI VIA BELLINI V I A D E L S O LE V I A D E I T R I B U N A L I L I Top 10 Sights Capodimonte mapCapodimonte map GaribaldiGaribaldi
V IA F . I O
see pp77–9
CORRERA
SA VERI O ERA
VC. SAN DOMENICO SORIANO VC. SAN DOMENICO SORIANO PIAZZAPIAZZA VC. S. DOM. MAGGIORE VIA NILO VIA NILO VIA S. BIAGIO Restaurants DanteDante NolanaNolana
MuseoMuseo
V I A D E L S O LE
TOMMASI VIA E. PESSINA
TOMMASI VIA E. PESSINA
see p85
NapoliNapoli
CentraleCentrale
Traditional Shops
VIA PORT' A
VIA PORT' A LBA LBA
VIA S. BIAGIO
PortaPorta
see p81
DEI LIBRAI
DEI LIBRAI
DANTEDANTE
(VIA ROMA)
(VIA ROMA) DanteDante V. S. SEBASTIANO VIA BENEDETTO CROCE Old Naples by Night UniversitàUniversità
see p82
VC. S. DOM. MAGGIORE
VIA BENEDETTO CROCE
Pizzerie
V. S. SEBASTIANO
see p84
VIA TOLEDO MONTEOLIVETO VIA GESÙ NUOVOGESÙ NUOVO V. GIOVANNI PALADINO Churches ToledoToledo MunicipioMunicipio Gulf ofGulf of
VIA TOLEDO
PIAZZA DELPIAZZA DEL
see p80
NaplesNaples
VIA
V. GIOVANNI PALADINO
Pasticcerie see p83
0 metres 200200 VIA SANTA CHIAR A VIA MEZZO CANNONE UniversitàUniversità Cafés, Gelaterie and AugusteoAugusteo 0 metres0 metres 800800
0 metres
MONTEOLIVETO
SAN FERDIANDOSAN FERDIANDO
0 yards
0 yards 200200 0 yards0 yards 800800
VIA SANTA CHIAR A
VIA MEZZO CANNONE
076-079_Top_10_Naples.indd 76 20/09/2016 15:41
Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ❮❮ 77
Spaccanapoli to beautiful paleo-Christian mosaics
in the baptistry, and splendid art
Capodimonte abounds in the main church and its
chapels, including the huge work
dedicated to the city’s patron saint,
Gennaro (Januarius) (see pp16–17).
Museo Archeologico
2
One of the world’s most
important museums of ancient art
houses some of the most famous
statues from the Greco-Roman past,
such as the Callipygean Venus that
Impressive interior of the Duomo set standards of physical beauty that
have endured through the ages. Other
Duomo
1 monumental marble works include
the Farnese Hercules, but the collec-
Although its position in the
present-day street-plan seems to be tions also feature bronzes, mosaics,
an afterthought and the perfunctory frescoes, carved semi precious stone,
Neo-Gothic façade is less than glassware, Greek vases and Egyptian
inspiring, inside Naples’ cathedral is artifacts (see pp18–21).
a fascinating cornucopia of history,
art and culture. There are ancient
remains of the Greek and Roman
cities to explore, including some
AREA MAP OF SPACCANAPOLI TO CAPODIMONTE
PIAZETTAPIAZETTA
Spaccanapoli to CavourCavour SETTEMBRINISETTEMBRINI V. CIRILLO Real Bosco diReal Bosco di North NaplesNorth Naples
Spaccanapoli to
V. CIRILLO
VIA F O RI A
VI A L UI GI SETT E M B R IN
Capodimontete VIA F O RI A VI A L UI GI SETT E M B R IN I I VIA CARBONARA CapodimonteCapodimonte
Capodimon
VIA MARIA LONGO
PIAZZAPIAZZA A56 A56
VIA CARBONARA
CAVOURCAVOUR VIA MARIA LONGO VICO DONNAREGINA V I A L OFF REDI CapodimonteCapodimonte
V I A S S. APOS TOLI
MuseoMuseo V. S. GIOVANNI VICO S. PETRILLO V I A S S. APOS T OLI V. O. COSTA CAPODIMONTECAPODIMONTE Cloister tiles detail, Santa Chiara
V. O. COSTA
V I A L OFF R ED I
VICO DONNAREGINA
OrtoOrto
PIAZZA MUSEO VICO S. VICO S. V. L. ARMANNI VICO LIMONCELLO V I A D U O M O VICO S. CAPUANO VICO S. MA TRINCHERA VICO S. MARIA VERGINIVERGINI BotanicoBotanico 3
PIAZZA MUSEO
V. S. GIOVANNI
Santa Chiara
VIA ANTICAGLIA
VICO S. PETRILLO
VICO LIMONCELLO
AD ADNONE
VICO S. MARIA
AD ADNONE
V. PIETRO
V. L. ARMANNI
TRINCHERA
VIA S. VIA S. COST ANT IN O PO GAUDIOSO GAUDIOSO VIA ANTICAGLIA VICO S. MARIA VERTECOELI MAP N3 • Via Santa Chiara 49c
V I A D E I T R I B U N A
V. PI S ANELLI
V I A D U O M O
VIAVIA COST ANT IN O POL I VI A S . MARIA DI L I VI A S . MARIA DI DE CRECCHIO VICO LUIGI Palazzo delloPalazzo dello • 081 551 66 73 • Open 7:30am–1pm,
BROGGIA
BROGGIA V. PI S ANELLI V I C O S. PE TRI L LO V I A D E I T R I B U N A L I L I AVVOCATAAVVOCATA SpagnoloSpagnolo 4:30–8pm daily (church); 9:30am–
VICO S. CAPUANO
VICO LUIGI
DE CRECCHIO
V I A S A P I E N Z A
V I A S A P I E N Z A VIA ATRI VIA ATRI VIA SAN PAOLO VIA SAN PAOLO 7:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun
V. PIETRO RIA VERTECOELI
V I C O S. PE TRI L LO
V. CONTE DI RUVO
V. CONTE DI RUVO Area of Spaccanapoli toArea of Spaccanapoli to
V I A D E I T R I B U N A
V IA F .
SA VER
V IA F . I O
CORR VIA BELLINI VIA BELLINI V I A D E L S O LE V I A D E I T R I B U N A L I L I Top 10 Sights Capodimonte mapCapodimonte map GaribaldiGaribaldi & public hols (museum & cl
• Adm (church free) • DA
see pp77–9
CORRERA
SA VERI O ERA
VC. SAN DOMENICO SORIANO VC. SAN DOMENICO SORIANO PIAZZAPIAZZA VC. S. DOM. MAGGIORE VIA NILO VIA NILO VIA S. BIAGIO Restaurants DanteDante NolanaNolana The façade of this structure, rebuilt
• www.monasterodisantachiara.com
MuseoMuseo
V I A D E L S O LE
TOMMASI VIA E. PESSINA
TOMMASI VIA E. PESSINA
see p85
NapoliNapoli
after World War II, is like a huge cliff
CentraleCentrale
Traditional Shops
VIA PORT' A LBA LBA
VIA PORT' A
of buff-coloured tufa, relieved only by
VIA S. BIAGIO
PortaPorta
see p81
DEI LIBRAI
DEI LIBRAI
DANTEDANTE
(VIA ROMA) DanteDante V. S. SEBASTIANO VIA BENEDETTO CROCE Old Naples by Night UniversitàUniversità its portico and giant rose window.
(VIA ROMA)
Only the base of its 14th-century bell
see p82
VC. S. DOM. MAGGIORE
VIA BENEDETTO CROCE
tower is original. Inside the decor
Pizzerie
has been returned to its Gothic origins,
V. S. SEBASTIANO
see p84
VIA TOLEDO MONTEOLIVETO VIA GESÙ NUOVOGESÙ NUOVO V. GIOVANNI PALADINO Churches ToledoToledo MunicipioMunicipio Gulf ofGulf of since all the Baroque embellishment
VIA TOLEDO
PIAZZA DELPIAZZA DEL
was destroyed in wartime bombings.
see p80
NaplesNaples
The tomb of Robert of Anjou is
VIA
V. GIOVANNI PALADINO
Pasticcerie see p83
0 metres
0 metres 200200 VIA SANTA CHIAR A VIA MEZZO CANNONE UniversitàUniversità Cafés, Gelaterie and AugusteoAugusteo 0 metres0 metres 800800 the largest funerary monument of
MONTEOLIVETO
SAN FERDIANDOSAN FERDIANDO medieval Italy, and behind this is
0 yards
0 yards 200200 0 yards0 yards 800800 the delightful tiled cloister (see p50).
VIA SANTA CHIAR A
VIA MEZZO CANNONE
076-079_Top_10_Naples.indd 77 20/09/2016 15:41
78 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Capodimonte
4 THE THREE GUGLIE
This impressive royal palace is
home to important works by some of The area’s three guglie (“needles” or
the greatest masters, including “spires”) imitate the original towering
Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, Mantegna, contraptions built in the 1600s and
Bellini, Fra’ Bartolomeo, Michelangelo, 1700s to celebrate feast days. The first
Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt and stone guglia was raised to San Gennaro,
Dürer, as well as by every great when the saint supposedly saved Naples
from Vesuvius’s fury in 1631. Next came
painter working in Naples during the one dedicated to San Domenico, as
17th and 18th centuries, including thanks for the end of the 1656 plague.
Caravaggio and Vivarini (see pp22–3). The last adorns Piazza del Gesù,
dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin.
17th- and 18th-century art, not just
by Neapolitan artists but by some of
the greatest masters of the day. Most
famous is the fresco cycle by
Lanfranco, with a marvellous trompe-
l’oeil architectural setting by Codazzi.
Another highlight is the altar that was
designed by Borromini.
San Giovanni
7
a Carbonara
MAP Q1 • Via Carbonara 5
Virgin with Child Enthroned (1465) by • Open 9:30am–1pm Mon–Sat
Bartolomeo Vivarini, Capodimonte This 14th-century church has no
façade of its own but is reached by a
Palazzo dello Spagnolo
5 double staircase through a courtyard
MAP P1 • Via Vergini 19
to the left of the Chapel of Santa
Dating from 1728, this palace offers Monica. Inside are a circular chapel
a fine example of a well-known with 15th-century frescoes and bas-
Neapolitan architectural element, reliefs by Spanish masters Bartolomé
the so-called staircase “ad ali di falco” Ordoñez and Diego de Siloe.
(with falcon wings). Separating two
courtyards, the external stairway Chapel, San Giovanni a Carbonara
consists of double flights of steps
with tiers of archways, a theatrical
feature that became the trademark
of its designer, Ferdinando Sanfelice.
Stucco designs can be seen through-
out; particular attention to detail is
evident above doorways.
Santi Apostoli
6
MAP P1 • Largo Santi Apostoli
9 • Open 8:30am–1pm, 4:30–8pm
Mon–Sat; 9am–1pm Sun
The original church on this site is
believed to have been built in the 5th
century over a Roman temple to
Mercury. It was rebuilt in the 17th
century, with decoration added over
the next 100 years. As such it
provides a complete treasury of
076-079_Top_10_Naples.indd 78 20/09/2016 15:41
Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ❮❮ 79
Orto Botanico
8 A MORNING AT OLD NAPLES’
CHURCHES
MAP K1 • Via Floria 223 • 081
253 39 37 • Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri Pio Monte della
Misericordia
by appt only • Guided tours Mar–May Santa Maria Duomo
Via dei
• www.ortobotanico.unina.it delle Anime Tribunali
Created in 1807, this botanical garden del Purgatorio
ad Arco
is one of Italy’s most important, both Piazza Via
Bellini
in size and in its collections. Given San Gregorio Duomo
Piazza
Naples’ climate, it has been possible San Domenico Armeno
to cultivate examples of nearly all of Gesù Nuovo
the world’s plants and flowers here. Sant'Angelo
a Nilo
Historic structures include the Neo- Piazza del Santa
Chiara
Classical Serra Temperata, built in Gesù Nuovo
1807 and the double stairway Begin your tour of Naples’ two
entrance to the grounds. oldest main streets at Piazza
del Gesù Nuovo, where you
can admire the Guglia
dell’Immacolata and the
rusticated façade of the Gesù
Nuovo (see p80). Further along,
enter Santa Chiara (see p77) to
take in the medieval tombs and
then around the back to see the
famous tiled cloister.
Continuing on, stop for a drink at
one of the cafés in Piazza San
Domenico, where you will note
that the Guglia di San Domenico
Cactus display, Orto Botanico has mermaids sculpted on its
base. Across the street, stop in
Sansevero Chapel
9 at the church of Sant’Angelo a
Nilo (see p80) to see its Donatello
MAP P2 • Via Francesco
de Sanctis 19 • 081 552 49 36 bas-relief, and at the next corner,
look for the ancient statue of the
• Open 10am–5:40pm Mon, Wed–Sat; god of the Nile, known familiarly
10am–1:10pm Sun • Adm • www. as “The Body of Naples”. Follow
museosansevero.it the street all the way to Via
Few spaces are decorated with such Duomo, pausing at the shops
unity as this family chapel, designed of all kinds along the way.
by the eccentric 18th-century prince Next, visit the culturally amazing
Raimondo di Sangro. Full of allegorical Duomo (see pp16–17), and then go
symbolism, the statuary are among behind it to see the earliest
Naples’ most famous, particularly the guglia, topped by a statue of San
“veiled” figures of Christ and Modesty. Gennaro, and Caravaggio’s
Don’t miss the Anatomical Machines. revolutionary painting The Acts
of Mercy in the Pio Monte della
Piazza Bellini
0 Misericordia (see p51). Double
back along Via dei Tribunali,
MAP N2
where you can visit more
One of the most appealing places in fascinating churches, including
Naples is lined with cafés, bookshops San Gregorio Armeno (see p80)
and palaces. Of particular note is the and Santa Maria delle Anime del
monastery of Sant’Antonio a Port’Alba, Purga torio ad Arco (see p80).
incor porating 15th-century Palazzo Finally, head for Piazza Bellini,
Conca. At the centre of the piazza, in where you can watch the world
addition to a statue of the eponymous go by and have a drink or a full
composer, is an archaeological exca- meal at one of the friendly cafés.
vation, revealing 5th-century BC Greek
walls of large tufa blocks (see p52).
See map on pp76–7
076-079_Top_10_Naples.indd 79 20/09/2016 15:41
80 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Churches
Detail of the elaborate ceiling, San Lorenzo Maggiore
San Lorenzo Maggiore
San Paolo Maggiore
1 6
MAP P2 • Via dei Tribunali 316
MAP P2 • Piazza S Gaetano 76
• Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily • Open 8am–noon, 5–7pm daily
One of Naples’ oldest monuments, The 8th-century church still retains
the church is a mix of Gothic and two Corinthian columns and features
Baroque styles. In the cloister there an annexed sanctuary.
is access to Greco-Roman remains. Santa Maria delle Anime
del Purgatorio ad Arco
Gesù Nuovo
2 7
MAP P2 • Via dei Tribunali 39
MAP N3 • Piazza del
Gesù 2 • Open 7:15am–1pm, • Open 9:30am–1pm Mon–Fri,
4:15–7:15pm daily 10am–5pm Sat • Adm
The wall of this church dates back The railings outside are adorned with
to a 15th-century fortified palace. bronze skulls, evoking the tradition
Inside are works of art from the of care for the dead.
16th to 19th centuries. San Pietro a Maiella
San Domenico Maggiore
3 8
MAP N2 • Piazza Luigi Miraglia
MAP N2 • Vico S Domenico
393 • Open 7:30am–noon, 5:30–7pm
Maggiore 18 • Open 9:30am–noon Mon–Sat, 8:30am–1pm Sun
Tue–Thu & Sun; also 4:30–5pm Fri Built in the 1300s, San Pietro
& Sat underwent a Baroque makeover in
Highlights at this 13th-century church the 1600s and then was returned to
include frescoes by Pietro Cavallini. Gothic style in the 1900s.
Santa Maria di
Sant’Angelo a Nilo
4 9
Donnaregina Vecchia
MAP P2 • Piazzetta Nilo
• Open 9:30am–noon daily MAP P1 • Vico Donnaregina 26
This 14th-century church houses the • Open 10am–7pm Wed–Fri, 10am–
Assumption of the Virgin by Donatello. noon Sat & Sun
This fine 13th-century church
San Gregorio Armeno
5 contains some Cavallini frescoes.
MAP P2 • Via S Gregorio
Santa Maria del Carmine
Armeno 1 • Open 9am–noon Mon– 0
Fri; 9am–12:30pm Sat–Sun MAP R3 • Piazza del Carmine 2
This church is best known for the • Open 6:30am–12:30pm, 4–7:30pm
cult of St Patricia, whose blood daily; summer: until 8:30pm daily
“liquefies” each Tuesday. It also Home to the Madonna Bruna icon,
has a beautiful cloister. the focus of a Naples cult.
080-081_Top_10_Naples.indd 80 20/09/2016 15:41
Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ❮❮ 81
Traditional Shops
A.S.
Via San Sebastiano
1 7
Shops
MAP N3 • Vico Pallonetto a
Santa Chiara 38 MAP N2
You never know what you’ll find Along this street, just off Piazza
in the way of old prints and period Bellini, you’ll find Neapolitan musical
objects here – or if you’ll find the instruments, from mandolins to the
shop as it doesn’t have a sign triccaballacco (a three-pronged
outside! You might uncover an clacker with cymbals attached).
18th-century engrav ing or a 1930s
Art Deco-style poster.
Napul’é
2
MAP P2 • Via dei Tribunali 90
Take the opportunity to see crafts-
men at work at this little bottega
(workshop), refining the lifelike
details of wonderful nativity figures.
Most of them are replicas of famous
originals, but they will also create
personalized versions to order.
Melinoi
3 Guitars for sale, Via San Sebastiano
MAP N3 • Via B Croce 34
Tattoo Records
An upmarket outlet for stylish 8
clothing, which includes a MAP P2 • Piazzetta Nilo 15
comprehensive range of designer In an appealing little piazza just off
labels from Italy, France and Spain. Spaccanapoli, this funky music shop
is good if you’re looking for CDs of
Osmis
4 local music or rare imports. The
proprietor will help you find everything
MAP N3 • Via Santa Chiara 10F
This little shop carries a charming from traditional tarantella music to the
line of locally and internationally latest Neapolitan rockers.
crafted jewellery, masks, lamps,
Nel Regno di
mirrors and candles. 9
Pulcinella
Affaitati
5 MAP N2 • Vico S Domenico
Maggiore 9
MAP N3 • Via B Croce
21 & Via Costantinopoli 18 This little shop is crammed
One of Old Naples’ finest full of Pulcinella figures (see
antiques shops. p46) in all shapes and
Specialities are sizes, from the sweetly
furniture and ceramics innocent to the bawdy.
from the 16th to the All in keeping with the
19th centuries. Nativity Ceramic piece, character’s personality.
figures are also on offer. Affaitati Scriptura
0
Decumano
6 • Via San Sebastiano 22
MAP N2
MAP N3
• Via Croce Benedetto 30 This small shop sells handmade
This large store specializes in leather products, including high-
reproductions of Capodimonte quality bags, wallets and diaries.
porcelain, as well as other ceramic The beautifully packaged items
art from Naples’ illustrious past. make great gifts to take home.
See map on pp76–7
080-081_Top_10_Naples.indd 81 20/09/2016 15:41
82 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Old Naples by Night
Kestè
1
MAP P3 • Largo S
Giovanni Maggiore 26–7
This lively bar with a
friendly atmosphere is
open all day long for
cocktails and beers. It
attracts a student crowd,
who dance to live bands
and spill out onto the
square in summer.
Kinky Klub
2
MAP N3 • Vicolo
della Quercia 26 Vibrant decor at Velvet Zone
A larger incarnation of
Velvet Zone
Naples’ historic Kinky Bar, this 7
reggae club is not at all kinky as its MAP N3 • Via Cisterna dell’Olio
name suggests. Head to the lower 11 • Closed Mon & Jun–mid-Sep
level to enjoy the Caribbean sounds, The “Velvet” is the top club in the old
dancing and live music. quarter for dancing, since it stays
open until 6am at weekends. Music
La Tana dell’ Arte
3 varies from techno to 1980s to rock,
MAP N2 • Via Bellini 30
and to live music from time to time.
Opposite Naples’ fine arts academy,
Spazio Nea
the name of this restaurant and 8
cocktail bar means “The Den of Art”. MAP N2 • Via Costantinopoli 53
The charming setting and outdoor Located just steps from Piazza
terrace attract an artistic crowd. Bellini, a lively area after dark, this
contemporary gallery is a gathering
Galleria 19
4 spot for artistic types. Overflowing
MAP N2 • Via San Sebastiano
with atmosphere, there’s indoor and
19 • Closed Mon & in summer outdoor seating areas, a café and
This subterranean club draws a young Wi-Fi. They also host theatre,
crowd who come for the DJ-spun peformances and special events.
mix of house music, electronic
Perditempo
sounds and art film screenings. 9
MAP N2 • Via San Pietro a
Evaluna Libreria Cafè
5 Maiella 8 • Closed Sun
MAP N2 • Piazza Bellini 72
This intimate bar-bookshop-music
A favourite in the historical centre, store is anything but a “waste of
this bar-cum-café offers fun and time” as its name might suggest.
culture to its clientele, who come An eclectic music soundtrack
here to read books and magazines accompanies the stimulating
while sipping coffees or cocktails. conversation and good drinks.
Mamamù
Bourbon Street
6 0
MAP N2 • Via Bellini 52
MAP P3 • Via Sedile Di Porto 46
• Closed Mon & Jul–Aug A live music hot spot for the young
This large jazz club features local music scene, which showcases indie
talent every evening. In summer rock, punk and electric music.
Bourbon Street organizes jazz Mamamù organizes a popular
cruises around the bay. summer rock festival every June.
082-083_Top_10_Naples.indd 82 20/09/2016 15:41
Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ❮❮ 83
Cafés, Gelaterie and Pasticcerie
Gran Caffè Aragonese
Scaturchio
1 5
MAP N2 • Piazza S Domenico
MAP N2 • Piazza S Domenico
Maggiore 5–8 Maggiore 19
This café dominates the scene on Noted all over Naples for its
a beautiful and crowded piazza. It wonderful traditional pastries, it’s a
offers a good range of local desserts real treat to sample the wares while
and savoury snacks, and excellent checking out this piazza. Don’t arrive
Neapolitan-style coffee. too late or they might have sold out.
Bar Mexico
2
MAP N2 • Piazza Dante 86
Bar Mexico is a local favourite
reputed to have the best espresso in
town, but if you don’t want it
sweetened (alla napoletana) then ask
for a caffè amaro (bitter coffee). A
hot-weather winner is the frappe di
caffè (iced whipped coffee). You can
also stock up on some wonderful
coffee blends to take home.
Scrumptious pastries at Scaturchio
Caffè dell’Epoca
3 Gelateria della Scimmia
MAP N2 • Via Sta Maria di
Costantinopoli 82 6
MAP N3 • Piazza Carità 4
Dating back to 1886, this place This is one of the city’s oldest and
knows all about quality. Enjoy an most famous gelaterie (ice-cream
espresso and a cornetto (croissant) at parlours) so expect a crowd.
one of the outside tables – or make
Xeo Cafe
like a local and stand at the bar. 7
MAP N3 • Piazza Sette
Gay-Odin
4 Settembre 20/21
A unique blend of bar and gelaterie,
MAP N3 • Via B Croce 61
A Naples institution that is a paradise here you’ll find freshly made, all
for chocolate lovers. Try the hot natural gelato served as ice lollies,
chocolate or the divine ice cream. which is quite the novelty in Italy.
Intra Moenia
8
MAP N2 • Piazza Bellini 70
A good place to hang out and enjoy
a drink. In warm weather it’s also a
lively gay venue in the evenings.
Caffè Arabo
9
MAP N2 • Piazza Bellini 64
Not just a great café with an appea-
ling atmosphere, but a purveyor of
tasty Arabic goodies and full meals.
Internetbar
0
MAP N2 • Piazza Bellini 74
This trendy establishment offers
Internet facilities, drinks and snacks,
Gay-Odin chocolate shop as well as an art gallery.
See map on pp76–7
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84 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Pizzerie
L’Antica Pizzeria
Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro
1 7
“da Michele”
MAP Q2 • Via Pietro Colletta
MAP Q2 • Via Cesare Sersale 1–3 42–6 • 081 553 94 26
• 081 553 92 04 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • €
• No credit cards • € Every bit as traditional as “da
The most traditional of Naples’ Michele” – and just across the street –
pizzerie. The menu is limited to this eatery is more upmarket, with a
only two varieties, margherita and larger choice. The decor recalls the
marinara. Still, the taste is sublime – city’s belle époque heyday.
and the wait often considerable.
Take a number at the door before
queuing. Tables are shared.
Lombardi a Santa
2
Chiara
MAP N3 • Via B Croce 59
• 081 552 07 80 • Closed Tue • €
Follow the locals downstairs to eat
fresh pizza either standing up or sat
on stools. Avoid the pricey restaurant.
Di Matteo
3
MAP P2 • Via dei Tribunali 94
• 081 45 52 62 • No credit cards • € Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro
As well as pizza, try some frittura
Pizzeria Sorbillo
here – deep-fried titbits of 8
vegetables, rice and cheese. MAP N2 • Via dei Tribunali 32
• 081 44 66 43 • Closed Sun
Pizzeria del Presidente
4 • No credit cards • €
MAP P2 • Via dei Tribunali
The main restaurant is modern but
120–1 • 081 21 09 03 • Closed Sun the stand-up branch next door
• No credit cards • € dates from 1935. Here you can be
Another pizzerie on this busy street, entertained by pizza makers who
which gained its moment of fame twirl the dough, dash on the topping
when then US President Bill Clinton and pop it into the brick oven.
stopped by for a snack. Pizzeria Vesi
Pizzeria Starita
5 9
MAP P2 • Via S. Biagio dei
Librai 115 • 081 551 10 35
MAP M1 • Via Materdei 27–28
• 081 557 36 82 • Closed Sun L • € • No credit cards • €
One of the oldest pizzerie in Naples, Pizzeria Vesi specializes in “pizza
this place is famous for its antipasti DOC” – a delicious aromatic union of
and fresh pizzas. The angioletti fritti mozzarella balls, pomodorini (cherry
(fried angels) is a popular item, too. tomatoes) and basil.
Expect a queue, especially weekends. Pizzeria Fortuna
Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba
6 0
MAP R2 • Via PS Mancini 8
• 081 20 53 80 • Closed Sun
MAP N2 • Via Port’Alba 18
• 081 45 97 13 • € • No credit cards • €
Through an archway off Piazza Little more than a counter with a few
Dante, this pizzerie even has a plastic tables in front, this little place
traditional wood-fired oven with turns out delicious pizzette and other
lava stones from Mount Vesuvius. goodies in seconds.
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Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte ❮❮ 85
Restaurants
Cantina della Sapienza
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP N2 • Via della Sapienza
40 • 081 45 90 78 • Closed D, Sun, For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
Aug • No credit cards • € taxes and extra charges.
The menu changes daily here but is € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
always authentic. Dishes such as
melanzane alla parmigiana (aubergine/
Palazzo Petrucci
eggplant with mozzarella and tomato) 5
make a regular appearance. MAP N2 • Piazza San Domenico
Maggiore 4 • 081 551 24 60 • €€€
La Cantina del Sole
2 Neapolitan fare with a creative touch
at this Michelin-starred restaurant
MAP P3 • Via G Paladino 3
• 081 552 73 12 • Closed Mon, Tue– and adjacent pizzerie. Mimimalist
Sat L, Aug • €€ decor complements the setting in
A favourite with the locals, this the stables of Palazzo Petrucci.
restaurant is noted for recipes that
La Vecchia Cantina
date back to the 1600s. 6
MAP M3 • Vico S Nicola alla
Bellini
3 Carità 13–14 • 081 552 02 26
• Closed Sun • €
MAP N2 • Via Santa Maria di
Costantinopoli 79–80 • 081 45 97 74 Taking full advantage of its location
• Closed Sun, 1 wk Aug • €€ next to the market, this place serves
This trattoria specializes in sea food seriously fresh fish at great prices.
pasta and grilled catch of the day.
Un Sorriso Integrale
Pizza also available. 7
MAP N2 • Vico S Pietro a
Mimì alla Ferrovia
4 Maiella 6 • €€
This vegetarian café serves fresh,
MAP R1 • Via Alfonso
d’Aragona 19 • 081 553 85 25 healthy meals, including an excellent
• Closed Sun, 2 wks Aug • €€ selection of sharing plates.
Mimì specializes in fish and seafood,
Neapolis
but they also have great pasta e ceci 8
(soup with chickpeas). MAP P3 • Via Giovanni Paladino
16 • 081 551 55 84 • No credit cards • €
Cheap and tasty Greek dishes include
kebabs and filled pitta breads, which
you can eat in or take away.
Lombardi
9
MAP P1 • Via Foria 12
• 081 45 62 20 • Closed Mon • €€
A restaurant and a pizzerie a bit off
the beaten track, so rarely crowded.
The antipasto buffet is wonderful,
featuring seasonal delicacies.
La Locanda del Grifo
0
MAP N2 • Via Francesco del
Giudice 12 • 081 557 14 92 • €€
Part of the Hotel Neapolis, this small
trattoria serves Neapolitan fare using
seasonal produce. The pretty patio
Seafood dish at Mimì alla Ferrovia overlooks a medieval campanile.
See map on pp76–7
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86 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Toledo to Chiaia
The first impression of the area known as “Royal Naples” is
of spaciousness and light. This is Naples’ showcase: a vision of
how func tional the city can be with due
appreciation for its setting. Elegant
architecture from various ages graces
the terrain here, which is also
home to one of the most authentic
neighbourhoods, maritime Santa
Lucia. Above it all, the Vomero
district boasts a fine castle and
monastery overlooking the bay
and one of the city’s best parks, while
to the west is the lively Mergellina
district, with its working port and busy
Detail on the Triumphal Arch,
Castel Nuovo restaurants lined up along the coast.
AREA MAP OF TOLEDO TO CHIAIA
300 metres 4 km
Corso Vittorio Montesanto
Emanuele
VIA P. SCURA VIA TOLEDO
VIA TIT
Morghen VIA MONTEOLIVETO
V I A G . B E R N I N I
VIA A. SCARLATTI PIAZZA
Vanvitelli VIA S. C A CCAVELLO O ANGELINI V I A G I R A R D I C ARITÀ
VIA DOMENICO CIMAROSA C O R S O V IT TO RI O EMA N U E L E T OLEDO
V I A G I O V A N N I M E R L I A N I
V OMERO Toledo
Cimarosa Fuga
Villa Palazzolo V. PORTACARRESE A M. VIA MEDINA
Floridiana Petraio VI A TOL E DO V I A G . V E R D I
VIA LUCA GIORDANO
Corso V. Municipio
Emanuele
CO R S O VIT TO RIO E M A N U E LE Augusteo
Corso V.
1.5 km Emanuele VIA S. BRIGIDA
Amadeo
V. DEL P. MA R G H E R I T A
Amedeo
V I A F . C R I S P I VIA V. VIA DEI MILLE VIA G. NICOTERA V. S. CARLO VIA F. ACTON
VIA G. MARTUCCI COLONNA
PIAZZA
CHIAIA VIA G. CARDUCCI VIA CHIAIA PLEBISCITO Giardini
Pubblici
V. PRINCIPESSA VIA F. ACTON
R. PIGNATELLI VIA C. POERIO VIA MONTE DI DIO
RIVIERA DI CHIAIA RIVIERA DI CHIAIA
V L . A NTON Villa Comunale PIAZZA
V . NA Z ARIO SAU R O
DO HRN
VITTORIA
1.5 km V I A D . M O R E L L I VIA S . LUCIA V. GENERALE ORSINI
V I A F R A N C E S C O C A R A C C I O L O
VIA
Top 10 Sights Nightlife CHIATAMONE
see pp87–9 see p92 VIA PARTENOPE
Places to Eat Performing Arts
see p93 Venues
see p90
Shopping 0 metres 500
see p91
0 yards 500
086-089_Top_10_Naples.indd 86 20/09/2016 15:41
Toledo to Chiaia ❮❮ 87
exudes the delicacy of the
early Renaissance. Inside,
the spartan blankness is
relieved by the wondrously
complex ceiling of the
Barons’ Hall, while the
fresco fragments and
sculptures in the chapel
juxtapose with the harsh
reality of the dungeons.
In addition there are fine
collections of religious and
secular artwork. Go up to
the battlements to see the
San Francesco di Paola panorama (see pp14–15).
San Francesco di Paola
Certosa di San Martino
1 4
If there is one place that
MAP M6 • Piazza del Plebiscito
• Open 8:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–7pm could be called the true museum
Mon–Sat of Naples, this former monastery is
The impetus to build this imitation it. So varied are the collections and
Pantheon came from the Napoleonic the architecture that all aspects of
king Joachim Murat (1808–15). Com the city’s history and cultural output
pleted under the reinstated Bourbon seem to be represented here. These
dynasty, the idea was to do away with include a large collection of Nativity
the chaotic jumble around the palace scenes and figures, some of Naples’
by recreating a version of the ancient most significant paintings and
Roman temple to the gods and sculptures, views of the city painted
setting it off with arcades echoing in different eras, a decorative arts
those of St Peter’s. It dominates a collection, and the exuberantly
semicircular piazza with the Palazzo Baroque church, decorated by the
Reale at the opposite end (see p50). best Neapolitan artists of the 17th
and 18th centuries (see pp26–9).
Palazzo Reale
2
The Royal Palace is largely
18thcentury in character, with its
vast layout, imposing façade and
important rooms such as the
ballroom and the chapel. How ever,
later embellishments took a Neo
Classical turn, in particular the
marvellous grand staircase. Under
Napoleonic rule many of the rooms
received a thorough makeover, which
dominates the decor today. Don’t
miss the fine Renaissance and
Baroque paintings from the royal
collection, including works by
Guercino, Spadarino and several
Flemish masters (see pp12–13).
Castel Nuovo
3
This rather sombre fortress is
a study in stylistic contrasts – in
direct opposition to its bulky grey Stunning ceiling frescoes,
towers, the marble Triumphal Arch Certosa di San Martino
086-089_Top_10_Naples.indd 87 20/09/2016 15:41
88 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
THE BIRTH OF GRAND OPERA
Along with its many other musical
accomplishments, Italy is the home of
opera. Inspired by Classical Greek drama,
the first opera was composed by
northerner Monteverdi towards the end
of the 16th century. But it was Naples,
renowned for its inimitable castrati (see
p47), who made the genre its own. The
accompanying sets, costumes and dance
were refined, and the whole artform
soon went international.
Lucullus. At the end of the 5th
century an order of monks founded a
monastery here, then the Normans
built the first castle. It was modified
by succeeding dynasties, achieving
Galleria Umberto I its present form in the 16th century.
Legend has it that its name derives
Galleria Umberto I
5 from a magic egg (uovo) hidden
inside, supposedly placed there by
MAP N5 • Piazza Trieste e
Trento to Via Toledo the Roman poet Virgil. The building
Part of the Urban Renewal Plan is now used for cultural events.
following the cholera epidemic of
Villa Comunale
1884, this light-filled space is home 7
to elegant buildings with Neo- MAP K6 • Via Caracciolo
Renaissance embellishments and • Open May–Oct: 7am–midnight
marble floors, overarched by a roof daily; Nov–Apr: 7am–10pm daily
of iron and glass. Located across Designed by Luigi Vanvitelli and
from the Royal Palace and Teatro inaugurated in 1781 as the royal
San Carlo, the spot imme diately gardens, this large public park is on
became popular with the city’s smart the bay. Graced with 19th-century
and artistic set, and even today has copies of Classical statuary, it was
an air of bygone charm. once home to the monumental
ancient Farnese Bull group, now in
Castel dell’Ovo
6 the Museo Archeologico (see p20).
MAP K2 • Via Partenope
Other adornments include a Neo-
• Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, 9am– Classical aquarium; an iron and
2pm Sun glass bandstand; and a zoological
In ancient times, this spot was station with a turtle rescue centre.
part of the vast estate of
the Roman general Castel
dell’Ovo
086-089_Top_10_Naples.indd 88 20/09/2016 15:41
Toledo to Chiaia ❮❮ 89
Teatro San Carlo
8 A DAY IN ROYAL NAPLES
MAP N5 • Via San Carlo 98F
• 081 797 21 11 • Open for guided Caffetteria
tours 9am–5:30pm Thu–Mon • Adm Medina
Actually an appendage to the Palazzo
Reale, built by order of King Charles, Galleria San Carlo Via
Via
Medina
this opera house predates the Umberto I
La Scala in Milan by some 40 years. Castel
Caffè
Officially opened on 4 November Gambrinus Nuovo
1737, it is one of the most important Teatro
opera houses in the world. The Piazza del San Carlo
Plebiscito
interior was originally in the Bourbon Palazzo
colours (silver, gold and sky blue), San Francesco Reale
but after being rebuilt following a fire di Paola
in 1816 the colour scheme is now MORNING
mostly gold and red, though no less
sumptuous. The theatre contains a Begin your tour inside Galleria
museum charting its history. Umberto I, where you can enjoy
a morning cappuccino at Caffè
Roma (No. 25–6) and get a sense
of the bustling optimism of
19th-century Naples. Coming out
onto Via San Carlo, the elegant
Neo-Classical façade of the
Teatro San Carlo is directly
across the street.
Go to the right and around the
corner into Piazza del Plebiscito.
On your right is the massive
dome of the church of San
Francesco di Paola (see p87),
and on your left, Palazzo Reale
Auditorium, Teatro San Carlo (see pp12–13). First walk over to
Museo Nazionale
9 the church, noting the bronze
equestrian statues of kings
della Ceramica Duca
di Martina Charles III and Ferdinand I, then
go back across the piazza to the
MAP J4 • Villa Floridiana, Royal Palace. Enter the courtyard
Via Cimarosa 77 • Open 8:30am– and take the magnificent stair-
2:30pm Wed–Mon • Adm case up to the apartments.
Since 1927 this villa has been home Take a break for a snack or lunch
to a prestigious collection of European at historic Caffè Gambrinus (see
and Oriental decorative art donated p93), just outside the piazza.
by the Duke of Martina. Of the 6,000
items, highlights are Hispano-Moorish AFTERNOON
lustreware, Italian majolica tiles, After lunch go back past the
Limoges porcelain and 18th-century Teatro San Carlo and the palace
Oriental porcelain (see p49). gardens, and be sure not to miss
the giant statues of the horse-
Castel Sant’Elmo
0 tamers at the gate. Continue on
down and across the lawns to the
MAP L4 • Via Tito Angelini 22
• Open 9am–2pm Wed–Mon • Adm Castel Nuovo (see pp14–15). Your
visit here should include the
This Angevin castle dating from 1329 views from the parapets.
was upgraded to its six-point con-
figuration in the 16th century, giving Finally, head up Via Medina to
the Caffetteria Medina (see p93),
it a militaristic presence looming where you can enjoy a drink while
above the city. It now houses libraries, admiring the Fountain of Neptune.
cultural activities and exhibitions.
See map on p86
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90 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Performing Arts Venues
Teatro Nuovo
Associazione Scarlatti
1 7
MAP M4 • Via Concezione a
MAP L5 • Piazza dei Martiri 58
• 081 40 60 11 • www.associazione Montecalvario 16 • 081 497 62 67
scarlatti.it • www.teatronuovonapoli.it
The best of Naples’ small musical Fringe, experimental and the best
companies, it hosts classical chamber of new international theatre is the
music and the occasional jazz group. keynote at this theatre.
A typical evening might feature the
Centro di Musica Antica
music of Debussy, Ravel, Chausson 8
and Frank. Venues change frequently. Pieta de’ Turchini
MAP M5 • Via S Caterina da Siena 38
Augusteo
2 • 081 40 23 95 • www.turchini.it
In a deconsecrated Baroque church,
MAP L5 • Piazzetta Augusteo
• 081 41 42 43 • www.teatro the Orchestra Cappella della Pieta
augusteo.it de’ Turchini performs classical music
Musical comedies are a speciality at of mostly Neapolitan composers.
this theatre. It also offers shows out-
Teatro Bellini
side the usual season of October to 9
May. Come here to see contemporary MAP N2 • Via Conte di Ruvo
productions, in line with the centuries- 14-19 • 081 949 12 66 • www.teatro
old tradition of comic theatre in Naples. bellini.it
Bellini offers mainstream theatre,
Galleria Toledo
3 as well as international and local
musicals and concerts. Productions
MAP M4 • Via Concezione a
Montecalvario 36 • 081 42 50 37 have included Fiddler on the Roof
• www.galleriatoledo.info and Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet.
This modern theatre offers
avant-garde local works and new
international fringe and experimental
plays, translated into Italian.
Mercadante
4
MAP N5 • Piazza Municipio 1
• 081 551 33 96/03 36 • www.teatro
stabilenapoli.it
Opened in 1779, this historic theatre
hosts productions touring Italy.
Politeama
5
MAP M6 • Via Monte di Dio 80
• 081 764 50 01 • www.teatro
politeama.it
This large, modern space offers
productions of international music,
dance and drama. Performers have Gold and red triumphs, Teatro Bellini
included German dancer Pina Bausch
Sannazaro
and US composer Philip Glass. 0
MAP M5 • Via Chiaia 157
San Carluccio
6 • 081 41 17 23/ 081 41 88 24
MAP K6 • Via S Pasquale a
• www.teatrosannazzaro.it
Chiaia 49 • 081 410 44 67 This lovely theatre dating from 1874
Small companies gravitate here, features its own company, often per-
alternating with cabaret shows. forming works in Neapolitan dialect.
090-091_Top_10_Naples.indd 90 20/09/2016 15:41
Toledo to Chiaia ❮❮ 91
Shopping
compatible with today’s
taste. There are some
original lines by local
artisans available.
Maison d’Art
6
MAP L6 • Piazza dei
Martiri 18
Maison d’Art is one of the
best antiques shops in
the city – it’s rather like
browsing through a
museum. Real treasures
Books and prints for sale at Bowinkel are on display, including
19th-century gouaches of
Bowinkel
1 Neapolitan panoramas, 17th-century
ceramics and 16th-century bronze
MAP L6 • Via S Lucia 25
One of Naples’ finest dealers in old candlesticks. Prices are high.
books and prints. Expect to find
Fratelli Tramontano
Italian prints that are centuries-old 7
as well as more modern ones, and a MAP M5 • Via Chiaia 142
host of other Neapolitan memorabilia. Italians are known the world over for
their leather goods, including bags
Penna & Carta 1989
2 and shoes. Traditional Neapolitan
craftsmanship is the byword here.
MAP K5 • Largo Vasto a
Chiaia 86
Rino Corcione
Come to this pleasant shop for art 8
supplies, fine handmade stationery MAP L3 • Piazzale S
and top-quality fountain pens, Martino 14–11
including a selection of decorative This is one of several coral and
hand-blown glass pens. cameo shops on and near this
beautiful piazza. Rino Coricione
La Murrina
3 boasts a vast selection of pieces,
MAP N5 • Via S Carlo 18
some at highly affordable prices.
These elegant rooms are filled with
La Bottega della
fine Murano glass, in all shapes, 9
sizes and colours. Exquisite vases, Ceramica
bowls and paperweights. MAP L6 • Via Carlo Poerio 40
The south of Italy is known for its
Fusaro
4 hand-painted ceramics. A host of
traditional designs are featured here,
MAP M5 • Via dei Mille 91
& Via Toledo 276 from simple earthenware beakers to
This local chain specializes in decorative plates with complex scenes.
designer gear for men – shoes, suits,
Dolce & Amaro
shirts and ties, jeans and jackets, as 0
well as caps, bags and belts. MAP M5 • Via Chiaia 160
Thirty-five types of chocolate await
Maffei
5 you here. Treats include limoncello-
flavoured dark chocolate and
MAP L6 • Via Sta Caterina a
Chiaia 10–11 chocolate Neapolitan landmarks,
Stylish jewellery at affordable prices. such as Vesuvius. Or how about an
Silver and gold are featured, with all-chocolate coffee-maker with all-
an emphasis on modern pieces chocolate cups?
See map on p86
090-091_Top_10_Naples.indd 91 20/09/2016 15:41
92 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Nightlife
Al Barcadero
Enoteca Belledonne
1 5
MAP L6 • Vico Belle donne a
MAP N6 • Banchina Santa
Lucia 2 • Open May–Sep Chiaia 18 • Closed Sun
This bar captures the charm of the Shelves of wine bottles lining the
Santa Lucia quarter, immortalized in walls and a rustic decor provide the
one of the most famous Neapolitan perfect backdrop for this elegant
songs. By the water, near Castel wine bar. An extensive wine list and
dell’Ovo, it’s great for hanging out light fare is on offer.
and enjoying the views. 66 Fusion Bar
Vanilla Café
2 6
MAP L6 • Via Bisignano 58
With an impressively stocked bar,
Via Partenope 12
Perfectly situated on the seashore, this nightlife spot in Chiaia is popular
this trendy bar-café offers great with locals for its inventive cocktails
views of the Bay of Naples. Large and lively atmosphere. Excellent
crowds flock in for its famous wines are available and there is an
aperitifs, especially during summer, outdoor seating area.
adding to the lively vibe. Around Midnight
Ex Ess
3 7
MAP K3 • Via G Bonito 32A
This live jazz venue focuses on
MAP K5 • Via Giuseppe
Martucci 28 • Closed Mon standards and classics most of the
Located in one of the city’s most time, booking well-known
elegant and cosmopolitan areas is performers from around Italy.
this friendly underground bar spread
Macho Lato
across several small rooms. There 8
is live music until midnight. MAP K1 • Via Abate
Minichini 62
S’move
4 Attracting an open-minded and
diverse gay crowd, this club offers
MAP L6 • Vico dei Sospiri 10A
• Closed Aug two levels with dancing, lounging
Another chic venue, but less and entertainment. Cover charge.
pretentious. Although there’s no
Ba-Bar
dance floor, the good selection of 9
music keeps things moving. MAP L6 • Via Bisignano 20
For an elegant evening out, head to
the stylish Chiaia neighbourhood
where locals go for an evening
aperitivo or dinner and drinks. The
French bistro atmosphere, friendly
service, extensive wine list and
international beer selection make
this lively night spot stand out.
Discoteca il Fico
0
MAP K2 • Via Tasso 466
A villa dating from the 1800s is the
fine setting for this chic disco bar.
During the summer months when
the weather is fine, the scene moves
outdoors to the terrace from where
there are great views of the Bay of
The bar at S’move Naples and Mount Vesuvius.
092-093_Top_10_Naples.indd 92 20/09/2016 15:41
Toledo to Chiaia ❮❮ 93
Places to Eat
Caffè Gambrinus
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP M5 • Via Chiaia 1–2 • €€
This belle époque institution still For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
retains much of its original decor. taxes and extra charges.
Popular with free-thinking intellec- € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
tuals and writers, it was closed down
by the Fascists as a result. The
Gastronomia LUISE
pastries and buffet lunch are good. 6
MAP M4 • Via Toledo 266
• 081 41 53 67 • No credit cards • €
A small deli offering local fried food
delights such as pizza fritta, arancini
(fried rice balls) and a selection of
tempting pasta and meat dishes.
‘a Taverna ‘e zi Carmela
7
MAP L6 • Via Niccolò
Tommaseo 11–12 • Closed Sun • €€
This family-run place has lots of
charm. The speciality is seafood.
Rosati
Elegant dining at Caffè Gambrinus 8
MAP M4 • Via Chiaia 260
Caffetteria Medina
2 • 081 42 16 86 • €€
An elegant restaurant and pizzeria
MAP P4 • Via Medina 30–31
• €€ that serves traditional Nea politan
The café’s main claim to fame is its cuisine at lunchtime.
location right next to the Neptune
Fountain. Tables outside provide you
with an excellent vantage point.
Pintauro
3
MAP N4 • Via Toledo 275 • €
This traditional pasticceria (pastry
shop) is an ideal choice for procuring
the signature Neapolitan sweets,
such as sfogliatella and babà (see p67).
Pinterré
4 Pizza from Rosati
MAP K2 • Via Partenope 12 • €
Osteria da Tonino
This seaside café is a great place for 9
kicking back and watching the world MAP K5 • Via Sta Teresa a
go by, plus it offers some of the city’s Chiaia 47 • 081 42 15 33 • Closed
most captivating views. Sun, Aug • No credit cards • €€
Excellent dishes here include
Brandi
5 seafood stew. Always lively.
MAP M5 • Salita Sant’Anna di
Chalet Ciro
Palazzo 1 • 081 41 69 28 • €€ 0
A Naples institution, laying claim to MAP K2 • Via F Caracciolo,
having invented the pizza margherita by Largo Sermoneta, Mergellina
during a visit from Italy’s Queen • 081 66 99 28 • No credit cards • €€
Margherita in 1889. Full restaurant Excellent seafood and pasta
menu, too. Reservations essential. combinations draw a loyal following.
See map on p86
092-093_Top_10_Naples.indd 93 20/09/2016 15:41
94 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Vesuvius and Around
Few places on earth are as awe-inspiring as this area of southern
Italy. Here lies the archetypal heart of Campania, where high culture
and the indifferent violence of nature have met again and again.
Although many lost their families, homes and lives, mankind has
ironically gained from these deadly encounters with the mighty
volcano that is Mount Vesuvius – in the very act of destruction entire
cultures have been preserved for
posterity. Here is the city of Pompeii,
the town of Herculaneum, and other
amazing villas – all of them replete with
art and architecture that reveal to us the
great heritage of beauty bequeathed by
our forebears from Roman times. In later
centuries, the unearthing of these
treasures inspired even kings to build
sumptuous palaces, so that they could
Roman mosaic,
Herculaneum sample firsthand the exciting discoveries.
AREA MAP OF VESUVIUS AND AROUND
Naples Al Vesuvio 0 km 2
8 km
0 miles 2
A3
Pietrarsa S.
Giorgio a Cremano San Giuseppe
Portici Vesuviano
Portici
Ercolano Vesuvius
Herculaneum SP298 Terzigno
Portici-
Ercolano Villa Ruggero Vesuvio National Park
Villa
Campolieto
Villa Favorita Torre del Greco
Torre del Greco
Torre del Greco SP121
Boscotrecase
SS18
A3 Boscoreale
Trecase
Torre Annunziata Torre Annunziata
Nord Sud
Torre Annunziata
and Oplontis Pompeii
Santa Maria
la Bruna Torre Annunziata
Centrale A3 Pompei
Castellamare
di Stabia
Gulf of Naples SS145
Santa Maria
La Carità
Castellammare
Top 10 Sights di Stabia
see pp95–6
Castellammare di Stabia
Places to Eat
see p97
SS145
094-097_Top_10_Naples.indd 94 20/09/2016 15:41
Vesuvius and Around ❮❮ 95
The ancient city of Pompeii in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius
Pompeii
1 last rumble in 1944, but experts
say it could happen at any time; an
Certainly no archaeological
find is more important than that of invigorating hike around the crater
ancient Pompeii, where a culture is certainly a memorable experience.
was captured forever by the eruption Drive to the parking area near the
of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Not only top of the volcano, from where the
can we see the streets, buildings, 1.5-hour return trail is accompanied
furnishings, art, tools, jewellery, and by volcanologist guides, except in
even the food and drink of the people bad weather (see p31).
who lived here, but plaster casts
Torre Annunziata
reveal the people themselves. From 4
the ruling class down to slaves, we and Oplontis
can see their last moments during Few places present such a stark
those terrible few hours that doomed contrast to the visitor as this one.
the city (see pp30–31). The contemporary squalor of
uncontrolled urban blight hides,
Herculaneum
2 within its depressed grime, imperial
splendours of the ancient world.
This town, largely a resort
in ancient times located right on The town is infamous these days for
the sea, was also buried alive by its crime and poverty, yet just two
mud and lava from Vesuvius. The blocks from the train station lie the
resulting preservation is, if anything, beautifully preserved ruins of one of
even better, bringing down to us the most sumptuous villas to have
wooden structures and other more been preserved by Vesuvius’s
perishable materials. However eruption (see pp32–3).
the excavations began in the
18th century when the science of
archaeology had yet to be developed,
so diggers were not very careful,
being mostly on a royal treasure
hunt for statuary, mosaics and
fresco paintings (see pp32–3).
Vesuvius
3
MAP D3 • Guided walks daily
• Adm • www.vesuvioexpress.info
Continental Europe’s only active
volcano has not blown up since its Villa Sabina Poppaea, Oplontis
094-097_Top_10_Naples.indd 95 20/09/2016 15:41
96 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area
Reggia di Portici and
5 THE GOLDEN MILE
the Vesuvian Villas
MAP L2 • Reggia di Portici, Via The 18th-century evolution of Il Miglio
Università 100 • Open 8:30am–7pm d’Oro can be traced back to Maria
Mon–Fri (park & chapel only) • Guided Amalia Cristina, Queen of Naples
tours: Reggia (081 775 48 50), Villas (below). She had grown up in a
(081 732 21 34) • Adm (chapel free) Viennese palace adorned with
The Vesuvian Villas were begun by two marble statues unearthed at
Herculaneum. When she arrived in
King Charles III and Queen Maria in Naples, she wanted a palace near
the 18th century. His Reggia (palace), the site. It started a trend among the
designed by Antonio Medrano, was nobility and some 120 villas were built.
the first and greatest, the rest of
which were built by other members
of the Bourbon court. For the most
part the villas are now dilapidated.
Villa Campolieto
6
MAP L2 • Corso Resina 283,
Ercolano • Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun
• Guided tours • Adm
This stupendous villa was designed
by the Vanvittelli brothers between
1760–75. It features a circular portico,
where concerts are held, and enjoys
a lovely panorama of the bay. Some
of the rooms have been restored to
their original decor, while others are
Villa Favorita
used for special exhibitions. 8
MAP L2 • Corso Resina 291,
Castellammare di Stabia
7 Ercolano • 081 192 44 532
• Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun
This port town has been
known since ancient times for its Villa Favorita was boarded up at least
thermal springs – the many different 100 years ago – with Italian
waters are each thought to be Unification the noble homes became
therapeutic in specific ways. As with an obsolete symbol of decadence.
its neighbours, its beauty has been However the park and the annexe
compromised by poverty and are open to visitors, the former
developers, but it is not without punctuated with pavilions.
charm. Nearby, the ruins of aristo
Villa Ruggero
cratic villas, Arianna and San Marco, 9
offer glimpses into wealthy lifestyles MAP L2 • Via A Rossi 40,
of 2,000 years ago (see p33). Ercolano • Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun
Set back from the sea, this house was
built for the Baronial Petti family. It
has been restored, with Rococo deco
rations, frescoes and marble busts.
Torre del Greco
0
MAP L3
This town has been home to coral
and cameo artisans for centuries, a
craft that still draws admirers today.
Yet its rough streets are among the
area’s worst for vio lent crime, and it
lies in the line of fire from Vesuvius,
Castellammare di Stabia last suffering destruction in 1794.
094-097_Top_10_Naples.indd 96 20/09/2016 15:41
Vesuvius and Around ❮❮ 97
Places to Eat
Bar degli Amorini,
PRICE CATEGORIES 6
Ercolano
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), MAP L2 • Corso Resina
taxes and extra charges. • No credit cards • €
Enjoy a simple meal and the chilled
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
red wine, made on the premises.
Il Principe, Pompei
Kona, Ercolano
1 7
MAP E4 • Piazza B Longo 8
MAP L2 • Via Osservatorio 14
• 081 777 39 68 • Closed D daily, • 081 850 55 66 • Closed Sun & Mon
except Sat evening • €€ • €€€
Surrounded by gardens and with a Elegant decor is graced with repro
view of the Gulf of Naples from the ductions of Pompeian art, and the
terrace, dining here is a tranquil cuisine also takes its inspiration from
experience. Seafood specialities ancient sources. Classical writers
and traditional pasta dishes make have provided recipes that have been
up the menu; the fresh seafood adapted to modern tastes, earning
salad comes recommended. the proprietors a Michelin star. The
onsite wine bar also serves food.
Ristorante Suisse,
2
Pompei
MAP E4 • Piazza Porta Marina
Inferiore • 081 862 25 36 • €€
Of all the eateries outside the main
gate of the ruins, this one offers the
nicest atmosphere. It has indoor and
outside tables, and serves a good
standard of trattoria fare.
Zi Caterina, Pompei
3
MAP E4 • Via Roma 20
• 081 850 74 47 • €€
Seafood is a speciality here; try Il Principe, Pompei
seppie con finocchi e olive (cuttlefish
Casa Rossa 1888,
with fennel and olives). The wine 8
list features local vintages. Torre del Greco
MAP D3 • Via Vesuvio 30
Grand Hotel La Medusa,
4 • 081 883 15 49 • Closed Tue • €€
Castellammare di Stabia
Good Neapolitan food right on the
MAP E4 • Via Passeggiata beach with fine views of the bay.
Archeologica 5 • 081 872 33 83 • €€
La Mammola,
This elegant hotel has a large dining 9
room offering set meals, as well as Torre del Greco
à la carte selections. MAP L2 • Hotel Marad, Via S
Sebastiano 24 • 081 849 21 68 • €€
Nuovo Ristorante
5 A beautiful restaurant serving
Anfiteatro, Pompei
traditional cuisine with creative flair.
MAP E4 • Via Plinio 9 • 081 850 60 42
Al Gamberone, Pompei
• Closed Fri • €€ 0
Located immediately outside the MAP E4 • Via Piave 36
excavations, this restaurant has • 081 850 68 14 • Closed Tue • €€
been running since 1922. The fresh Dining alfresco under the lemon and
fish is a good choice in summer. orange trees is a treat. Seafood is key.
See map on p94
094-097_Top_10_Naples.indd 97 20/09/2016 15:41
098-099_Top_10_Naples.indd 98 20/09/2016 15:41
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True to its name, DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Top 10 Naples & the Amalfi Coast covers all the region's major
sights and attractions in easy-to-use "top 10" lists that help you plan the vacation that's right for you.
This newly updated pocket travel guide for Naples and the Amalfi Coast will lead you straight to the best
attractions these cities have to offer, from shopping in Positano to the ancient ruins of Pompeii.
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Amalfi Coast.
- Brand-new itineraries help you plan your trip to these areas of Naples and the Amalfi Coast.
- Expanded and far more comprehensive, new laminated pull-out map now includes color-coded design, public
transportation maps, and street indexes to make it even easier to use.
- Maps of walking routes show you the best ways to maximize your time.
- New Top 10 lists feature off-the-beaten-track ideas, along with standbys like the top attractions, shopping, dining options, and more.
- Additional maps marked with sights from the guidebook are shown on inside cover flaps, with selected
street index and metro map.
- New typography and fresh layout throughout.
You'll still find DK's famous full-color photography and museum floor plans, along with just the right amount of coverage of history and culture. A free pull-out map is marked with sights from the guidebook and includes a street index and a metro map.
The perfect pocket-size travel companion: DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Top 10 Naples & the Amalfi Coast.
Recommended: For an in-depth guidebook to Naples and the Amalfi Coast, check out DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Naples & the Amalfi Coast, which offers a complete overview of these cities; thousands of photographs, illustrations, and maps; and more.
Series Overview: For more than two decades, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides have helped travelers experience the world through the history, art, architecture, and culture of their destinations. Expert travel writers and
researchers provide independent editorial advice, recommendations, and reviews. With guidebooks to hundreds of places around the globe available in print and digital formats, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides show
travelers how they can discover more.
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides: the most maps, photographs, and illustrations of any guide.
Reviews:
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slim and sleek overview... loaded with practical and useful content." - Gadling.com
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friendly for travelers who want their information delivered in a concise, visual way." - Chicago Tribune
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Awards:
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