(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Naples & The Amalfi Coast

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100 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

The Islands, Sorrento

and the South


This is one of the world’s most intensely emotive zones, where
verdant-crowned cliffs plunge into the blue sea. On these islands is
where the Greeks first brought their high culture to the area, where
Roman emperors lived in stupendous luxury, and where, in more
recent times, the world’s most glamorous celebrities indulged in
their own lavish lifestyles. When the American writer John Steinbeck
first saw the Amalfi Coast he was moved to uncontrollable weeping.
He was not the first – nor will he be the last – to succumb to the
emotional impact of the area’s potent beauty.











Forio town on the cliffs of the island of Ischia
AREA MAP OF THE ISLANDS, SORRENTO AND THE SOUTH
A3 A3 The Islands, Sorrento and the South
The Islands, Sorrento and the South
Isola d’Ischia and
Isola d’Ischia and Baia Baia Pozzuoli Naples
Pozzuoli
Naples
Isola di Procida
Isola di Procida S. Antonio Corbara
S. Antonio Corbara
Bacoli
Bacoli Abate Cava de’ Tirreni A3
Cava de’ Tirreni
Abate
Herculaneum
Isola di
Isola di Herculaneum A3
Nisida Polvica
Nisida
Polvica
Castellammare
Gulf of Naples
Gulf of Naples Castellammare Lettere
Lettere
Canale di Procida
Canale di Procida
di Stabia
(Golfo di Napoli)
Isola di Procida
Salerno Piegolelle
Isola Isola Isola di Procida (Golfo di Napoli) di Stabia Salerno Piegolelle
Mt Cerreto
Gragnano
d’Ischia Gragnano Mt Cerreto Corpo di Cava S18 S18
d’Ischia
Corpo di Cava
1316m
Ischia
Ischia Area of The Islands, Sorrento Mt Faito 1316m
Mt Faito
Area of The Islands, Sorrento
1131m
28 km
and the South map
and the South map 1131m Vietri sul Mare 28 km
Vietri sul Mare
Pimonte
Pimonte
32 km
Vico Vico Scala Scala 32 km
M o n t i L a t t a r i
M o n t i L a t t a r i
Cetara
Equa Equa Equense Cetara
Equense
Sorrento
0 km 0 km 10 10 Sorrento Ravello Minori Maiori
Ravello Minori
Maiori
Moiano
Moiano
0 miles
0 miles 10 10 S163 S163
Meta Meta
Erchie
Atrani
Naples
Naples Atrani Erchie
Capo dí Orso
Capo dí Orso
S. Agnello
Amalfi
S. Agnello Positano Vettica Furore Amalfi
Vettica Furore
Positano
Maggiore
Maggiore
Sorrento
Sorrento S163 S163 Praiano
Praiano
S. Pietro
Massa
Massa S145 S145 S. Pietro
A m a l f i C o a s t
Lubrense
Lubrense
Gulf of S alerno
S. Agata sui Due Golfi A m a l f i C o a s t Gulf of S alerno
S. Agata sui Due Golfi
( Golfo di S alerno)
Termini
Termini ( Golfo di S alerno)
Marina del Cantone
Marina del Cantone
Nerano
Nerano
Pta. Campanella
Pta. Campanella
Bocca P i ccola
Anacapri
Anacapri
Bocca P i ccola
Capri Town
Capri Town
0 km 0 km 5 5
Isola Capri 0 miles 5 5
0 miles
Isola Capri
Previous pages Rowing boats on the shore at Cetara, Amalfi Coast
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The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 101

The Islands, Sorrento 1
Ischia
MAP B4
and the South The island of Ischia is surmounted by
an extinct 788-m (2,585-ft) volcano,
Monte Epomeo, and the many hot
mineral springs here (some of them
radioactive) have drawn cure- and
pleasure-seekers to their soothing
sources since ancient times. Green
and rugged in appearance, the island Remains of a Greek temple, Paestum
also benefits from fine, long beaches.
Like Capri, Ischia has had its share of account those in Greece itself.
famous residents – in the 19th century Besides the beauty and majesty of
the Norwegian playwright Henrik these timeless structures, this site
Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt during a stay has offered up countless other
here, while in the 20th century the treasures, the remains of the Greco-
English poet W.H. Auden and his Roman city that thrived here for
homosexual circle scandalized the some 1,000 years. The wonderful
locals. The island was also the first on-site museum is the repository of
place in the area to be colonized by many unique finds, including the only
the Greeks, in the 8th century BC. known Greek paintings to have sur-
vived the ages. Taken from a tomb
Paestum
2 found nearby, the frescoes include a
These ancient Greek temples
depiction of a joyous banquet of lovers,
are among the most complete – and and a renowned diver – possibly a
most evocative – to have survived metaphor for the Greek conception
into modern times, even taking into of the afterlife (see pp38–9).
AREA MAP OF THE ISLANDS, SORRENTO AND THE SOUTH
A3 A3 The Islands, Sorrento and the South
The Islands, Sorrento and the South
Isola d’Ischia and
Isola d’Ischia and Baia Baia Pozzuoli Naples
Naples
Pozzuoli
Isola di Procida
Isola di Procida S. Antonio Corbara
S. Antonio Corbara
Bacoli
Bacoli Abate Cava de’ Tirreni A3
Cava de’ Tirreni
Abate
Herculaneum
Isola di
Isola di Herculaneum A3
Nisida
Nisida Polvica
Polvica
Gulf of Naples Castellammare Lettere
Castellammare
Gulf of Naples
Lettere
Canale di Procida
Canale di Procida
di Stabia
(Golfo di Napoli)
Isola di Procida
Salerno Piegolelle
Isola Isola Isola di Procida (Golfo di Napoli) di Stabia Salerno Piegolelle
Mt Cerreto
Gragnano
d’Ischia Gragnano Mt Cerreto Corpo di Cava S18 S18
d’Ischia
Corpo di Cava
1316m
Ischia
Ischia Area of The Islands, Sorrento Mt Faito 1316m
Mt Faito
Area of The Islands, Sorrento
and the South map 1131m Vietri sul Mare 28 km 28 km
and the South map
1131m
Vietri sul Mare
Pimonte
Pimonte
Vico Vico Scala Scala 32 km 32 km
M o n t i L a t t a r i
M o n t i L a t t a r i
Cetara
Equa Equa Equense Cetara
Equense
Sorrento
0 km 0 km 10 10 Sorrento Ravello Minori Maiori
Ravello Minori
Maiori
Moiano
Moiano
0 miles
0 miles 10 10 S163 S163 Top 10 Sights
Meta Meta see pp101–3
Erchie
Atrani
Naples
Naples Atrani Erchie
Capo dí Orso Restaurants
Capo dí Orso
Amalfi
S. Agnello
S. Agnello Positano Vettica Furore Amalfi see p109
Vettica Furore
Positano
Maggiore
Maggiore
Sorrento S163 S163 Praiano Shopping
Sorrento
Praiano
S. Pietro
Massa
Massa S145 S145 S. Pietro see p106
A m a l f i C o a s t
Lubrense
Lubrense Nightlife
Gulf of S alerno
S. Agata sui Due Golfi
S. Agata sui Due Golfi A m a l f i C o a s t Gulf of S alerno see p107
( Golfo di S alerno)
Termini ( Golfo di S alerno) Amalfi Coast Sights
Termini
Marina del Cantone
Marina del Cantone
see p104
Nerano
Nerano Museums
Pta. Campanella
Pta. Campanella see p105
Anacapri Pizzerie, Cafés
Anacapri
Bocca P i ccola
Bocca P i ccola
Capri Town
Capri Town and Gelaterie
0 km 0 km 5 5 see p108
0 miles
Isola Capri 0 miles 5 5
Isola Capri
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102 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 103

Procida
3 HIKING SPOTS
MAP B4
Smaller than Capri and Ischia and This region retains a great deal of
much less touristy, Procida attracts virtually untouched natural beauty. On
holiday-makers looking for tranquillity Capri, one of the best hikes is up the
and cultural tradition. The island is Scala Fenicia to Anacapri and then on
flat with highly fertile soil, and is up to the top, Monte Solaro. On Ischia,
noted for its lemons, considered the head up Via Monterone or Via Bocca
from Forio, through the Falanga Forest
best in the region. The island’s most to the summit of Monte Epomeo. Along
original feature, however, is its the Amalfi Coast, the Sentieri degli Dei,
unique architecture. The colourful above Positano, from Montepertuso to
houses along the Chiaiolella Port, Nocella, offers stupendous views.
Marina Corricella and Marina di
Sancio Cattolico are known for their
Sorrento
vaults – built as winter boat shelters 6
– arches and external staircases. MAP D5
Palisades and grand hotels notwith-
standing, there is no getting around
the fact that Sorrento can be chaotic.
Yet the town has been a resort since
the 1700s – Casanova and Goethe
are two notable past visitors – and
there is certainly plenty of charm to
be found in the old streets.
Capri
7
The fabled isle has had its
detractors – it has been called
“nothing more than a rocky cliff
Colourful buildings, Procida with over-priced cafés” – and,
in ancient times, the notorious
Cava de’ Tirreni
4 shenanigans of Tiberius gave it an
MAP F4 • Abbey: Open 8:30am–
enduring reputation as the ultimate
noon, 4–5:30pm daily; must be booked in decadence, as did the party life
In a mountainous valley north of here in the 1950s. Yet, if you choose
the Amalfi Coast, this undiscovered to stay awhile, you will discover the
town was put up in the Middle Ages real Capri beyond the hype – a world
thanks to the Benedictine abbey of traditional farm life, scenic hiking
Badia della Santissima Trinità terrain and sparkling azure waters
(Abbey of the Holy Trinity) founded for swimming and boating. A place
in 1011. A visit to the abbey and with undeniable allure (see pp34–5).
the medieval Borgo Scacciaventi
in the town’s centre is an evocative
walk through time.
Salerno
5
MAP F4 • Duomo: Piazza Alfano
I • Open 9am–1pm, 4–6pm daily
Renowned in medieval times for its
medical school, this city has been
almost ignored by tourism; that may
change now that the historic centre
has undergone a restoration. The
Romanesque Duomo is a reminder
that Salerno was the capital of
southern Italy in the 11th century. Faraglioni rocks, Capri






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The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 103

The Amalfi Coast
8 A DAY’S ISLAND HOPPING
MAP E5
The famed Costiera Amalfitana lives Casamicciola Bar Capriccio
up to the highest expectations. The
winding corniche road offers striking BOAT Isola di Procida
panoramas, and some of the towns d’Ischia Terra Murata
Isola
seem to defy gravity, clinging to Il Focolare
steep slopes. Beauty and history are FERRY
everywhere, with the most popular Sant'Angelo Maronti
destinations being the towns of Beach
Amalfi, Positano and Ravello (see
pp36–7). The beaches are rocky yet Capri
undeniably beautiful, and time spent
discovering this perpendicular
paradise never fails to delight. MORNING
The tour begins on the island of
Procida. To get there, take either
the first hydrofoil from Naples-
Beverello or Naples-Mergellina
or the first ferry from Pozzuoli, all
of which take about 35 minutes.
You will arrive at Marina Grande,
greeted by the sight of fishing
boats and the colourful houses
lining the port. Take a quick hike
to the island’s highest point, the
Terra Murata (“walled town”).
The town of Amalfi, Amalfi Coast Back down on the marina,
enjoy some refreshment at Bar
Massa Lubrense
9 Capriccio (Via Roma 99) while
waiting for your hydrofoil to
MAP D5
To the west of Sorrento, this is one Ischia (see p101).
of several fishing villages clustered On Ischia you will arrive at
around little ports. Rarely crowded, Casamicciola, the island’s second
the site affords wonderful views port, where you can have lunch
(Fri–Sun) at the wonderfully
across to Capri from the belvedere rustic Il Focolare (Via Cretaio 68).
in Largo Vescovado. At Marina di
Lobra there’s a beach. AFTERNOON
Nerano
0 After lunch take a tour around
the island in a glass-bottom boat
MAP D5
This quiet fishing village, close to the (departs 2:30pm), stopping at the
town of Sant’Angelo. Here you
tip of the peninsula, offers a peaceful can take in the views, lounge by
escape. While administratively part the dockside or walk along the
of Massa Lubrense on the northern cliff above Maronti Beach.
side of the peninsula, its remote At the end of your tour, you can
location on the southern side means opt to stay over in one of the
fine views and a scenic beach in the hotels in Casamicciola, or take
seaside hamlet of Marina del a hydrofoil back to the mainland.
Cantone. With an atmospheric If you spend the night, the next
setting, sophisticated seaside dining, morning take the hydrofoil or one
and fine hiking along the rugged of the ferries to Capri (see pp34–5).
coastline, including the protected After riding the funicular up to
Capri Town, follow the signs up
nature reserve at Punta Campanella, to the ruins of Villa Jovis for the
it’s a lovely spot to while away an breathtaking views.
afternoon on the Amalfi Coast.
See map on pp100–1

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104 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

Amalfi Coast Sights


height of mercantile
power and the architecture
still evokes that glory. The
Duomo (cathedral) is
glorious (see pp36–7).
Atrani
5
MAP E5
• San Salvatore de’ Bireto
This little town exudes a
quiet charm, with its
arcades and a maze of
alley-stairways. Amalfi’s
doges received their
Positano, climbing up the hillside investiture at its church,
San Salvatore de’ Bireto.
Positano
1 Ravello
Known for decades as a
playground for the rich and famous, 6
In the 13th century Ravello
this is an astonishingly vertical town was an important player in the sea
in shades of pink and other faded trade and the medieval look accounts
pastels. Only one street snakes its for its captivating beauty (see pp36–7).
way through the village – the only
Minori and Maiori
way to reach the beach and the 7
heart of the village is to take the MAP E5
steps down (see pp36–7). Maiori has the coast’s longest beach,
while Minori has the archaeo logical
Scala
2 site, the Villa Romana (see p105).
MAP E5
Cetara
This lesser-known, tranquil village 8
sits across the valley from Ravello. MAP F4
Indeed, the best view of Ravello is Home to the coast’s most active
from Scala, which is also the starting fishing fleet, it is also the place to
point for hikes to Amalfi and the buy cola tura di alici, a fish sauce
Valle delle Ferriere (see pp36–7). descended from the ancient Roman
one called garum. A tuna festival
Praiano
3 takes place every year in July.
MAP E5 • Grotta dello
Vietri sul Mare
Smeraldo: Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm 9
daily, Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm daily; Adm MAP F4
• 089 87 31 90 (boat trips) Vietri is universally known for its
This little fishing village is perched ceramics, which begun in the 1400s
on a ridge. Further along, you come and are still masterly handcrafted
to the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald and hand-painted.
Cave). A lift takes you down to the
Conca dei Marini
boats to enter the grotto. The cave is 0
also accessible by boat from Amalfi. MAP E5
Known for the luminous light at the
Amalfi
4 Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald
Grotto), but linger a little longer
Amalfi is the largest and most
historic town on its eponymous to see the picturesque marina,
coastline. Between the 9th and 12th 16th-century watchtower and views
centuries the republic was at its from the San Pancrazio Church.
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The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 105

Museums


Certosa di San Giacomo,
Area Archeologica de
1 5
Santa Restituta, Ischia
Capri
MAP U2 • Viale Certosa • 081 837 62 MAP A4 • Piazza Santa Restituta,
18 • Open 9am–2pm Tue–Sun Lacco Ameno • Open 9:30am–
This 14th-century monastery 12:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm
features North African-style vaults Sitting below the 19th-century
forming a series of little domes. It church are the remains of a
now houses the town’s library. 4th-century Christian basilica.
Arsenale Museum,
Abbazia di San Michele
2 6
Arcangelo, Procida
Amalfi
MAP E5 • Largo Cesareo Console 3 MAP B4 • Via Terra Murata 89 • 081
• 089 87 11 70/ 339 150 58 18 896 76 12 • Open 10am–12:45pm Mon,
• Open 10am–7pm daily • Adm 10am–12:45pm, 3–5:30pm Tue–Sat
Set in Amalfi’s medieval arsenal, this Overlooking the sea, this 11th-century
small museum traces the history of abbey is notable for its paintings by
the powerful Republic of Amalfi and pupils of Luca Giordano.
its contributions to the development
Museo Antiquarium
of the compass and maritime laws. 7
Equano, Vico Equense
Villa San Michele,
3 MAP D4 • Casa Municipale, Via
Anacapri
Filangieri 98 • Open 9am–1pm
MAP S1 • 081 837 14 01 • Open Mar: Mon–Fri
9am–6pm; Apr & Oct: 9am–5pm; Finds from this Roman town consist
May–Sep: 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb: of pottery, figurines and tools. They
9am–3:30pm • Adm are now housed in the Town Hall.
This villa contains ancient marbles
Correale di Terranova,
and furnishings from the 17th to 8
19th centuries (see p35). Sorrento
MAP D5 • Via Correale 50 • 081 878
18 46 • timings vary, check website
• Adm • www.museocorreale.it
In this 18th-century villa, archaeolo-
gical finds include a 4th-century BC
Greek original of Artemis on a Deer.
Museo Archeologico
9
Georges Vallet,
Piano di Sorrento
MAP D5 • Via Ripa di Cassano 14
• 081 532 14 78 • Open 9am–7pm
Tue–Sun
Ancient statues at Villa San Michele This interesting museum boasts
finds from all over the peninsula,
Castello Aragonese,
4 including pottery and weapons.
Ischia
Villa Romana, Minori
MAP B4 • 081 99 28 34 • Open Mar– 0
Nov: 9am–7:30pm • Adm MAP E5 • Via Capodipiazza 28
In the 16th century poetess Vittoria • Open 9am–1 hour before sunset
Colonna held court here, making In this aristocratic villa the fresco
Ischia the cultural centre of the style dates from the 1st century AD.
Mediterranean. Part of the ruin is Artifacts excavated here and nearby
now the Il Monastero hotel (see p131). are also displayed.
See map on pp100–1
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106 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

Shopping


Sandalmakers, Capri
1 which you’ll understand why it
Canfora: MAP T1; Via
packs such a punch – it’s basically
Camerelle 3 • L’Arte del Sandal pure alcohol with flavouring.
Caprese di Antonio Viva: MAP U1;
Salvatore Gargiulo,
Via G Orlandi 75, Anacapri 5
Cobblers jollier than these would Sorrento
be hard to find. Stop by to pick out MAP D5 • Via Fuoro 33
designs you like and within a few Examples of Sorrentine intarsia
hours – unless you choose something (marquetry) are to be seen all over
extra fancy – you’ll have your hand- town, but this workshop turns out
tooled, made-to-measure sandals. top-quality products at reasonable
prices. Note the music boxes.
La Galleria dell’Arte,
6
Anacapri
MAP T1 • Via G Orlandi 107
Some of the best ceramics on the
island. Designs tend to evoke the
natural hues of the setting – azure,
gold, green – usually with flowers
and vines or other florid vegetation.
Anything can be designed to your
specifications and you can watch
the artists at work.
Carthusia on Capri 7
La Scuderia del Duca,
Carthusia, Capri
Amalfi
2 MAP E5 • Cesareo Console 8
MAP C5 • Via Camerelle 10
The closest you can come to bringing Amalfi’s handmade paper-making
the natural beauty of Capri home tradition is vibrantly on display in
is with Carthusia’s collection of this beautiful shop.
perfumes inspired by and created on
Camo, Ravello
Capri. Fragrances, soaps and home 8
scents make beautiful gifts. MAP E4 • Piazza Vesovado 6
A cameo factory (and museum) that
Corallium, Anacapri
3 sells cameos and coral jewellery.
MAP T1 • Via G Orlandi 163–5
Ceramiche d’Arte,
A coral and cameo factory in 9
Ercolano. The selection is Ravello
extraordinary, created with both MAP E4 • Via della Repubblica 41
silver and gold, and prices are This workshop is the place to come
excellent. A certificate of for gorgeous ceramics decorated
guarantee comes with with traditional designs.
every purchase. Milleunaceramica,
Limonoro,
Amalfi
4 0
Sorrento
MAP E5 • Via Pietro
MAP D5 • Via S Cesareo 51 Capuano 36
One of the top souvenirs This shop is a treasure
from the area is limoncello, trove of locally produced
the signature lemon liqueur. ceramics. Each piece is
This is a good place to handpicked by the owner
watch it being made, after Milleunaceramica and created by artisans.
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The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 107

Nightlife


Taverna Anema
1
e Core, Capri
MAP U1 • Via Sella Orta 1
• Closed Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri
The “Soul and Heart”
taverna is still redolent
of la dolce vita vibes of
decades past and is
considered Capri’s
premier nightclub. It
attracts a chic, yet fun-
loving crowd.
Number Two,
2
Capri
MAP U1 • Via Camerelle 1 La Piazzetta, the social heart of Capri
Another hot spot and local
La Piazzetta, Capri
celebrity hangout. The DJ spins cool 7
house and techno dance music, but MAP U1
don’t get here before 2am. Dressy Capri Town’s main square may be
club attire is de rigueur. small but it’s big on la vita mondana
(sophisticated lifestyle). The little
Qubè Café, Capri
3 bars, with their cluster of outdoor
tables, are a magnet for daytrippers
MAP C5 • Via li Curti 6
A quirky disco-bar a short stroll from and locals alike, although the latter
Capri’s stylish Piazzetta. With a local generally turn up after dark when
feel that’s a refreshing change from the former have moved on.
the island’s posh night spots, music
Annunziata Church,
varies from classic rock to electronic. 8
Ravello
Discoteca Valentino
4 MAP E4 • Via della Annunziata
Pianobar, Ischia
• www.ravelloarts.org
MAP B4 • Corso Vittoria Colonna 97 Dating from the Middle Ages, this
This beautifully decorated club church is no longer used for religious
attracts a young, energetic crowd. services; the Ravello Concert Society
presents year-round chamber
Chaplin’s Pub, Sorrento
5 concerts in this evocative setting.
MAP D5 • Corso Italia 18
Africana, Marina di Praia
A delightful mix of Irish and Italian, 9
this friendly, family-owned Irish pub MAP E5
in the heart of Sorrento offers an The approach to this disco is via a
excellent beer selection. walkway cut out of a seafront rock
face, while the dance floor seems to
Music on the Rocks,
6 be suspen ded above the waves. Decor
Positano
includes ethnic masks and parrots.
MAP E5 • Grotta dell’Incanto 51
Villa Rufolo, Ravello
• Closed winter 0
Evocatively set inside a cavern, this MAP E4 • Piazza Duomo
beachside disco pub is the hot spot • Open 8am–8pm in summer,
for nightlife on the Amalfi Coast. 9am–4pm in winter
At weekends it is a high-energy Jazz concerts and classical recitals
nightclub featuring international are held in the grounds of the Villa
DJs and live music. Cover charge. Rufolo from March to November.
See map on pp100–1
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108 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

Pizzerie, Cafés and Gelaterie


Gran Caffè,
1
Amalfi
MAP E5 • Corso delle
Repubbliche Marinare
37/38 • €
With picturesque outdoor
seating overlooking the
beach and port of Amalfi,
this café is a popular spot
with locals and visitors for
enjoying drinks or a light
meal. The sunset views
are spectacular. Relaxing on the piazza outside Pasticceria Pansa
Pasticceria Pansa,
La Zagara, Positano
2 7
Amalfi
MAP E5 • Via dei Mulini 4–8 • €
La Zagara is a major tourist magnet, MAP E5 • Piazza Duomo 40 • €
but there’s no denying that the treats An Amalfi institution since 1830, this
they turn out here are delicious: elegant bar offers a wide selection
pastries, cakes, fresh fruit sorbets of irresistible sweets and locally
and the like. The patio, with fragrant made chocolates. The chocolate
lemon trees, is capti vating. covered citrus peels are a treat.
Outdoor tables provide a view of the
Bar Tiberio, Capri
3 goings-on in the main square.
MAP U1 • La Piazzetta • €
Da Pasquale,
One of the main bars on the Piazzetta, 8
but everyone has his or her own Sant’Angelo, Ischia
favourite. Great for people-watching. MAP B4 • Via Sant’Angelo 79
• 081 90 42 08 • €
Bar Calise, Ischia
4 Dining is home-style here, even to
the occasional sharing of tables and
MAP B4 • Piazza degli Eroi 69
• € bench seating. The pizza is tasty and
One of the island’s best bars, with there’s a good choice of beer and wine.
excellent gelato (ice cream) and dolci
Sant’Antonino, Sorrento
(desserts). It’s surrounded by dense 9
greenery in the middle of a traffic MAP D5 • Via Santa Maria delle
circle in this laid-back port. Grazie 6 • 081 877 12 00 • €
Excellent, wood-fired pizza is served
Da Maria, Amalfi
5 here for lunch and dinner. The heat
of traditional wood ovens flash-
MAP E5 • Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi
14 • 089 87 18 80 • Closed Mon • € bakes the dough, preventing the
Amalfi’s best wood-fired pizza can toppings from becoming soggy.
be found at this friendly place near
Nonna Sceppa, Paestum
Piazza Duomo. Local specialities 0
also feature on the menu. MAP H6 • Via Laura 53
• 082 885 10 64 • Closed Thu (winter
Villa Verde, Capri
6 only), Oct • €€
The least touristy of the choices here
MAP U1 • Via Sella Orta 6/a
• 081 837 70 24 • €€ is a highly recommended restaurant
Offering spacious indoor seating as that turns out excellent pizzas, as
well as a lush garden, this restaurant well as seafood and other home-
has exquisite focaccia and pizza and style dishes. Wild mushrooms in
an excellent house red from Calabria. season – try some on your pizza.
108-109_Top_10_Naples.indd 108 20/09/2016 15:41

The Islands, Sorrento and the South ❮❮ 109

Restaurants


La Cambusa, Positano
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP E5 • Piazza Vespucci 4
• 089 87 54 32 • Closed winter • €€ For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
Positioned to the right of the beach, taxes and extra charges.
with dining on a porticoed balcony. € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Seafood is the thing to go for.
Terrazza Bosquet,
Marina Grande, Amalfi
2 6
Sorrento
MAP E5 • Via della Regione 4
• 089 87 11 29 • €€ MAP D5 • Grand Hotel Excelsior
One of the best restaurants in town, Vittoria, Piazza Tasso 34
right on the sea. Dishes include sea­ • 081 877 71 11 • €€€
food ravioli with arugula (rocket) sauce. The grandest experience Sorrento
has to offer, in the frescoed dining
Villa Maria, Ravello
3 room of this superlative hotel. Silver,
china, crystal and fine linen comple­
MAP E4 • Via Santa Chiari 2
• 089 85 72 55 • €€€ ment the service you receive.
With a breathtaking setting and
Il Solitario, Anacapri
pergola­covered dining terrace, this 7
is a peaceful respite for savouring MAP T1 • Via G Orlandi 96
the views and Ravello specialities. • 081 837 13 82 • €
Hidden away down a narrow
Buca di Bacco “da
4 walkway, this delightful place is like
Serafina”, Capri
being in someone’s private garden.
MAP U1 • Via Longano 25 Everything is homemade and the
• 081 837 07 23 • Closed Wed • €€ freshest the season has to offer.
This welcoming place is top of most
La Conchiglia, Chiaia
locals’ list, for both quality and price. 8
Cooking features seafood and antipasti. Beach, Procida
MAP B4 • Steps from Via Pizzaco 10
Da Paolino Lemon
5 • 081 896 76 02 • €€
Trees, Capri
Get here by walking down 183 steps
MAP C5 • Via Palazzo e Mare 11 from Piazza Olmo or reserve a boat
• 081 837 61 02 • €€€ trip. Once here, try pasta with sweet
Enjoy romantic outdoor dining under mussels and courgettes (zucchini).
the lemon trees at this country­style
Alberto al Mare, Ischia
restaurant. Traditional Caprese 9
dishes are as luscious as the setting. MAP B4 • Via Cristoforo
Colombo 8 • 081 98 12 59 • €€
Located over the water, the bounty of
the sea is the speciality here. Options
might include swordfish or monkfish.
Don Alfonso 1890,
0
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi,
Sorrentine Peninsula
MAP D5 • Corso Sant’ Agata 13
• 081 878 00 26 • Closed Mon, 7
Jan–7 Mar • €€€
With two Michelin stars expect
lavish elegance and impeccable
food. The tasting menus and their
Da Paolino Lemon Trees, Capri accompanying wines are superb.
See map on pp100–1
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110 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

Posillipo, Pozzuoli

and the North


If central seaside Naples is known as “Royal Naples”, the coastal
area to the west could be called “Imperial Naples” for its
enormous popularity with imperial families and their courtiers in
ancient Roman times. Significant ruins left by them are
everywhere hiding behind the postwar abusivo (illegal)
building developments that now blot the landscape.
However, the area is subject to one of nature’s
stranger phenomena, called Bradyseism
– under ground volcanic activity gives rise
to “slow earthquakes”, resulting in the
continual rising and lowering of the land,
making it an unstable base for settlement.
The region is relatively unexplored by
modern-day tourists but was top of the list
for those who took the 19th-century Grand
Tour, not least because it includes one of Italy’s
Royal throne,
Reggia di Caserta finest palaces, the Reggia di Caserta.

AREA MAP OF POSILLIPO, POZZUOLI AND THE NORTH
Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North PisaniPisani
CASTAGNAROCASTAGNARO North of NaplesNorth of Naples A1 A1 BeneventoBenevento
Top 10 Sights Santa MariaSanta Maria AirolaAirola
see pp111–13 Monte GauroMonte Gauro PIANURAPIANURA Capua VetereCapua Vetere CasertaCaserta S7 S7
Places to Eat 331m331m Marina diMarina di AversaAversa MaddaloniMaddaloni CervinaraCervinara
see p115 SS7 SS7 GauroGauro Lago diLago di AcerraAcerra CiccianoCicciano
PatriaPatria
The Best of the Rest PozzuoliPozzuoli NapoliNapoli
Monte Vesuvio
see p114 (Naples)(Naples) Monte Vesuvio
Riserva NaturaleRiserva Naturale 1281m AvellinoAvellino
1281m
A56 A56 Cratere degli AstroniCratere degli Astroni PozzuoliPozzuoli
LagoLago CIGLIANOCIGLIANO A3 A3 0 km0 km 20 20
d'Avernod'Averno
CumaeCumae Monte NuovoMonte Nuovo PozzuoliPozzuoli A56 A56 Area of Posillipo, PozzuoliArea of Posillipo, Pozzuoli
135m135m SolfataraSolfatara and the North mapand the North map 0 miles0 miles 20 20
AnfiteatroAnfiteatro
LidoLido CantieriCantieri FlavioFlavio Lala Lala MERGELLINAMERGELLINA
Augusto
FusaroFusaro POZZUOLLIPOZZUOLLI Augusto
LucrinoLucrino
Gulf ofGulf of Zoo/ Zoo/
Lago delLago del Edenlandia
Edenlandia
Piazza
FusaroFusaro BaiaBaia P o zzuoliP o zzuoli BAGNOLIBAGNOLI Piazza
Leopardi
PozzuoliPozzuoli Leopardi
Parco Archeologico eParco Archeologico e Agnano
Agnano
Dazio
FusaroFusaro Monumentale di BaiaMonumentale di Baia Dazio Gulf ofGulf of
Bagnoli
Bagnoli
Museo ArcheologicoMuseo Archeologico POSILLIPOPOSILLIPO
TorregavetaTorregaveta dei Campi Flegreidei Campi Flegrei NaplesNaples
ParcoParco
TORREGAVETATORREGAVETA VirgilianoVirgiliano
MarechiaroMarechiaro
BACOLIBACOLI Capo PosillipoCapo Posillipo
NisidaNisida
MONTE DI
MONTE DI IsolaIsola
LagoLago
PROCIDA
PROCIDA MisenoMiseno PennatePennate T yrrhenianT yrrhenian
S eaS ea
MISENOMISENO 0 kilometres0 kilometres 2 2
Procida, Isola d’IschiaProcida, Isola d’Ischia 0 miles0 miles 1 1
110-113_Top_10_Naples.indd 110 20/09/2016 15:41

Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North ❮❮ 111

Posillipo, Pozzuoli the epic poet Virgil is said to be
here in the ruins of a columbarium
and the North (sepulchre) used by ancient Romans
to house the ashes of the dead.
Marechiaro
2
MAP J2
One of the most romantic spots on
this evocative coastline, this little
fishing village is dotted with ancient
ruins and restaurants with great
views (see p61). The panoramic vista
of Vesuvius from here is repeatedly
cele brated, most nostalgically in the
quintessential song ‘O Sole Mio.
View from Parco Virgiliano 3
Parco Archeologico e
Parco Virgiliano
Monumentale di Baia
1 MAP B3 • Via Fusaro 37, Bacoli • 081
MAP J2 • Salita della Grotta 20
• 081 410 72 11 • Open 9am–4pm 868 75 92 or 06 399 67 050 to book
Mon–Sat (to noon in summer) • Open 9am–1 hour before sunset
Occupying the summit of a large Tue–Sun • Adm • www.coopculture.it
hill, this park has amazing views Arranged in terraces, this excavated
whichever way you turn. Below lies area has an ancient spa and a Temple
the island of Nisida, formed from an of Diana. The spa complex comprises
ancient volcanic crater. The tomb of baths named after Venus and Mercury,
the latter a large swimming pool
AREA MAP OF POSILLIPO, POZZUOLI AND THE NORTH once covered with a dome.
Pozzuoli
Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North PisaniPisani 4
CASTAGNAROCASTAGNARO North of NaplesNorth of Naples A1 A1 BeneventoBenevento MAP C3
Santa MariaSanta Maria AirolaAirola Called Puteoli by the Romans, this
PIANURAPIANURA Capua VetereCapua Vetere
Monte GauroMonte Gauro CasertaCaserta S7 S7 seaside town was a major player
331m331m Marina diMarina di MaddaloniMaddaloni CervinaraCervinara
SS7 SS7 Lago diLago di AversaAversa CiccianoCicciano 2,000 years ago. Ruins here include
GauroGauro PatriaPatria AcerraAcerra the archaeological site of Rione
PozzuoliPozzuoli
NapoliNapoli Terra, and the Serapeum, thought
Monte Vesuvio
(Naples)(Naples) Monte Vesuvio
Riserva NaturaleRiserva Naturale 1281m AvellinoAvellino for centuries to be a temple of the
1281m
A56 A56 Cratere degli AstroniCratere degli Astroni PozzuoliPozzuoli
LagoLago CIGLIANOCIGLIANO A3 A3 0 km 0 km 20 20 Egyptian god Serapis but now known
d'Avernod'Averno
CumaeCumae Monte NuovoMonte Nuovo PozzuoliPozzuoli A56 A56 Area of Posillipo, PozzuoliArea of Posillipo, Pozzuoli to have been one of the empire’s
0 miles
135m135m SolfataraSolfatara and the North mapand the North map 0 miles 20 20 largest mar kets. Puteoli was the
AnfiteatroAnfiteatro
LidoLido CantieriCantieri FlavioFlavio Lala Lala MERGELLINAMERGELLINA main imperial port and retained its
Augusto
FusaroFusaro POZZUOLLIPOZZUOLLI Augusto
LucrinoLucrino importance even after the Port of
Gulf ofGulf of Zoo/ Zoo/ Ostia was upgraded by Emperor
Lago delLago del Edenlandia
Edenlandia
Piazza
FusaroFusaro BaiaBaia P o zzuoliP o zzuoli BAGNOLIBAGNOLI Piazza Trajan in the 2nd century.
Leopardi
PozzuoliPozzuoli Leopardi
Parco Archeologico eParco Archeologico e Agnano
Agnano
Dazio
FusaroFusaro Monumentale di BaiaMonumentale di Baia Dazio Gulf ofGulf of
Bagnoli
Bagnoli
Museo ArcheologicoMuseo Archeologico POSILLIPOPOSILLIPO
TorregavetaTorregaveta dei Campi Flegreidei Campi Flegrei NaplesNaples
ParcoParco
TORREGAVETATORREGAVETA VirgilianoVirgiliano
MarechiaroMarechiaro
BACOLIBACOLI Capo PosillipoCapo Posillipo
NisidaNisida
MONTE DI IsolaIsola
MONTE DI
LagoLago
PROCIDA MisenoMiseno PennatePennate T yrrhenianT yrrhenian
PROCIDA
S eaS ea
MISENOMISENO 0 kilometres0 kilometres 2 2
Procida, Isola d’IschiaProcida, Isola d’Ischia 0 miles0 miles 1 1
Archaeological site at Pozzuoli
110-113_Top_10_Naples.indd 111 20/09/2016 15:41

112 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

Baia
5
MAP B3 • 800 60 06 01 or
081 193 057 80 • Adm
This little town was the most
sumptuous resort of the ancient
world – everyone who was anyone
had a seaside retreat of daunting
size and opulent luxury. Due to the
seismic activity in this area, however,
much of the land and the structures
are now underwater, forming a
unique flooded city that can be
explored by dives or by boat (see p63).
There’s also a 15th-century castle
here, the Castello di Baia, housing an
archaeological museum, while to the
north is Lago d’Averno, a crater lake
that the ancients believed marked Anfiteatro Flavio
the entrance to the Underworld.
Anfiteatro Flavio
6
MAP C3 • Corso Terracciano 75
• 081 526 60 07 • Open 9am–2pm
Wed–Mon (to 7pm summer) • Adm
This is the third-largest Roman
amphitheatre in the world, after
those at Rome and Capua – again
making it clear how important this
area was to the empire. It seated
40,000 and was equipped with an
array of below-floor apparatus for
making the venationes (wild animal
“hunts”) that took place as theatrical
as possible. Nowhere are such sys-
Underwater city, Baia tems so well preserved, due to the
lower portion of the structure having
been buried until modern times.
THE BURNING FIELDS
Capo Posillipo
Flegrei and Phlegrean derive from 7
a Greek word phlegraios (burning), MAP J2
applied in ancient times to this zone of The ancient Greeks called the area
perpetual, low-level volcanic activity. Pausilypon (“respite from pain”) due to
(below) Below the earth’s surface the great beauty of the place. Through
here, magma (molten rock) is flowing, the ages, it retained its appeal due to a
applying pressure upward, making it succession of inhabitants and visitors,
one of the most unstable regions of
the earth’s crust, literally littered with from religious communities in
volcanic cones and craters. medieval times to holiday resorts for
the Spanish aristocracy in the 17th
century. The Spartan years of the
1950s, however, put an end to that
famous beauty in large swaths with
the unregulated spread of ugly apart-
ment buildings. Fortunately, parts of
the area down by the water still retain
great charm, mainly the 17th-century
Villa Volpicelli, appearing like a
floating castle at the water’s edge.






110-113_Top_10_Naples.indd 112 20/09/2016 15:41

Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North ❮❮ 113

Museo Archeologico
8 A MORNING IN ANCIENT POZZUOLI
dei Campi Flegrei
MAP B3 • Via Castello 15, Bacoli Treme di Pozzuoli Solfatara
• 081 523 37 97 • Open 9am–3pm Nettuno Station Via Vecchia di Solfatara
San Gennaro
Tue–Sun • Adm Anfiteatro
The archaeological museum (inside Trattoria da Flavio
Antica
Castello Aragonese di Baia) contains Ciuffiello Piscina
Cardito
a reassembled sacellum (shrine) Pozzuoli Via
featuring statues of several emperors. Station Domiziana
There’s also a reconstruction of a Santuario di
nymphaeum (fountain), the original of Cappuccini San Gennaro
Station
Duomo,
which lies under 6 m (20 ft) of water. Rione Terra
Its statues have been raised and tell
the story of how Ulysses escaped Start the tour in the cool of the
from the Cyclops Polyphemus. morning with a visit to Solfatara
(see p114), the vast volcanic lava
Cumae
9 cap about 1 km (0.5 mile) north of
the town. This stark, bizarre site
MAP B3 • Via Montecuma
• Open 9am–7pm daily • Adm will set the tone for the day’s
Founded in the 8th century BC, Cumae musings on the ephemeral
played a big part in history, due to its nature of all things. Next, head
back towards town on the Via
seeress. The Cumaean Sibyl, priestess Vecchia di San Gennaro and take
of Apollo, was an oracle who exerted a quick left on Via Domiziana,
great influence, and the leaders of which follows the ancient Roman
Rome depended on her prophecies road of basalt stones built to link
in times of crisis. Sibyl’s Grotto, with Rome to Puteoli (Pozzuoli; see
its weird trapezoidal entrance tunnel, p111). Visit the Santuario di San
is an enigmatic experience (see p63). Gennaro (see p114) and see the
spot where Naples’ patron saint
met his martyrdom under
Emperor Diocletian.
From here, turn back and go
down Via Vecchia di San Gennaro
to the Piscina Cardito, a
2nd-century cistern with a
vaulted ceiling supported by
pillars. Continue on to the great
Anfiteatro Flavio and try to
imagine what it might have been
like, with full scenery and exotic
beasts springing out of trapdoors.
Next, follow Via Terracciano along
Italian gardens, Reggia di Caserta to the Terme di Nettuno, huge
Reggia di Caserta
0 terraced baths, and on the
opposite slope the Ninfeo di
Diana, a fountain that may have
MAP D1 • Via Douhet 22 • 0823
44 80 84 • Palace apartments: open been part of the baths.
8:30am– 7:30pm Wed–Mon; park: Work your way down towards
open 8:30am–2 hours before sunset the ancient port, most of it now
Wed–Mon • Adm • www.reggiadi under water, to the Serapeum
caserta.beniculturali.it (market). Then walk up onto the
Neapolitan Baroque at its most promontory, the Rione Terra, to
refined, this 18th-century palace is explore the 2,000-year-old
Duomo (cathedral).
set around four courtyards with lavish
rooms, highlighted by the Great Finally, enjoy a well-deserved
Staircase and the Throne Room. The lunch at the Antica Trattoria da
park has huge decorated fountains, Ciuffiello (see p115).
culminating in the Grande Cascata.
See map on pp110–11
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114 ❯❯ Naples and the Amalfi Coast Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Science City, Bagnoli
Palazzo Donn’Anna,
1 6
Posillipo
MAP J2 • Via Coroglio 104
• 081 735 22 20/22 • Open 9:30am– MAP J2 • Piazza Donn’Anna 9
2pm Tue–Sat; 10am–7pm Sun • Adm • Closed to the public
This hands-on science centre is The air of mystery that envelops this
designed to educate and amuse kids 17th-century palace has given rise to
of all ages (see p64). rumours. One claims Queen Joan II
used it for illicit trysts, after which she
Santa Maria del Faro,
2 had her lovers tossed into the sea.
Posillipo
Benevento
MAP J2 • Via Marechiaro 96a • 081 7
769 14 39 • Open during services MAP F1
Dating back to the 1300s, this church This town’s pride and joy is the well-
was probably built over the remains preserved Arch of Trajan, chronicling
of a Roman faro (lighthouse). It was the Roman emperor’s civic works.
restored in the 18th century.
War Memorial
3
Mausoleo, Posillipo
MAP J2 • Via Belsito
• Open 7am–noon Tue–Sun
This altar is dedicated to the lost
lives of World War I. The astonishing
structure shows caryatids gazing
as if possessed by grief.
Astroni
4
MAP C3 • Riserva degli
Astroni, Agnano • 081 588 37 20 Arch of Trajan, Benevento
Santuario di San
• Open 9:30am–2pm daily • Adm 8
The Romans tapped the geothermal Gennaro, Pozzuoli
properties of this volcanic crater to MAP C3 • Via S Gennaro Agnano 10
build their spas. • 081 526 11 14 • Open 8am–noon,
4:30–8pm Mon–Sat, 8am–1pm, 4:30–
Solfatara, Pozzuoli
5 8pm Sun
MAP C3 • Via Solfatara 161
This 16th-century church is said to
• 081 526 23 41/74 13 • Open 8:30am– mark the spot where Naples’ patron
6pm daily • Adm • www.solfatara.it saint was decapitated, and the brown
Above the town, a crater of a dormant stain on a stone is said to be his blood.
volcano presents an unearthly land-
Bacoli
scape. The Romans called it Forum 9
Vulcani (Vulcan’s Forum). MAP B4 • Via A Greco 10 • Open
9am–1 hour before sunset daily
Volcanic landscape at Solfatara Noteworthy here is the Piscina
Mirabile, a cistern used to collect
water for the old port of Misenum.
Santa Maria Capuavetere
0
MAP C1
The Appian Way, the first Roman
highway, led south to Capua, the
“biggest and richest city in Italy”,
according to Livy in the 1st century BC.

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Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the North ❮❮ 115

Places to Eat


discovered on site. The wine list
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half highlights bottles from Camania and
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), those produced in the Campi Flegrei.
taxes and extra charges.
Leucio, Casertavecchia-
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50 7
San Leucio
MAP D1 • Strada Panoramica
Gelateria Bilancione,
1 • 082 330 12 41 • Closed Mon,
Posillipo
Sun D, 2 wks Aug • €
MAP J2 • Via Posillipo 238B Take a 10-minute drive north of
Choose your favourite gelato at this Caserta to try risotto vergine, with
ice cream shop and then enjoy it squid, prawns and cuttlefish.
sitting on a bench taking in the vista. Féfé, Bacoli
Giuseppone a Mare,
2 8
MAP B4 • Via della Shoah 15,
Posillipo
Case Vecchie • 081 523 30 11
MAP J2 • Via Russo 13 • 081 19 13 • Closed Mon D (winter) • €
77 03 • Closed Mon, Sun L • €€ Filled with regulars, this place faces
Renowned since 1889, the seafood is the port. You are welcomed with the
excellent. Popular for receptions and house aperitif and advised of the
celebrations, so book ahead. seafood specials of the day.
Antica Trattoria da
Al Faro, Posillipo
3 9
Ciuffiello, Pozzuoli
MAP J2 • Porticciolo de
MAP C3 • Via Dicearchia 11 bis • 081 Marechiaro • 081 575 51 42
526 93 97 • Closed Mon (winter) • €€ • Closed Mon, 1 wk Aug • €€
Overlooking the central piazza, This seafood restaurant is known for
this restaurant is well known its romantic atmosphere and won-
for its grilled specialities. Their derful views. The catches of the day
consummate zuppa di pesce (fish are served up in sumptuous style.
soup) is a meal all in itself.
Il Casolare da Tobia,
4
Bacoli
MAP B4 • Via Fabris 12
• 081 523 51 93 • €
Wonderful organically grown food,
from the rich volcanic soil of the
crater on which the place is perched.
It is best to book ahead.
La Ninfea, Pozzuoli
5
MAP C3 • Via C Colombo 21
• 081 853 13 37 • No credit cards • €€ Spaghetti alle vongole veraci, Al Faro
A speciality here is schiaffoni alla
Da Gino e Pina,
ninfea, a delicious seafood pasta dish. 0
Benevento
Vinaria, Pozzuoli
6 MAP F1 • Viale dell’ Università 1
MAP C3 • Via Monte di Cuma 3
• 082 42 49 47 • Closed Sun, Aug • €
• 081 804 62 35 • Closed Mon–Thu A popular family-run restaurant
• €€€ serving traditional cuisine using local
This restaurant boasts its own piece produce. Try the homemade pasta in
of history with Roman ruins local saffron liqueur. Good desserts.
See map on pp110–11
114-115_Top_10_Naples.indd 115 20/09/2016 15:41

Streetsmart















Elegant shopping arcades of
Galleria Umberto I, Naples















































116-117_Top_10_Naples.indd 116 20/09/2016 15:41

Getting To and Around Naples
and the Amalfi Coast 118
Practical Information 120
Places to Stay 126
General Index 134
Acknowledgments 140
Phrase Book 142





















































116-117_Top_10_Naples.indd 117 20/09/2016 15:41

118 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Getting To and Around
Naples and the Amalfi Coast


Arriving by Air to Sorrento. From both Getting Around by
Salerno and Sorrento Train and Metro
The Capodichino Airport there are buses and
in Naples is 5.9 km ferries to various places Naples and its vicinity
(3.7 miles) northeast of on the Amalfi Coast. has a complex but reliable
the city centre. National transport system (ANM),
and international flights Arriving by Sea including trams, funicular
arrive from all the main railways and light railways
Italian cities and most A very pleasant way of that serve outlying areas.
major European ones. travelling to this part There is also a Metro
Alitalia is the main of Italy is by boat. Ferry system in Naples and
carrier within Italy. Major and hydrofoil services run most lines converge at
European airlines offer from Sardinia, Sicily, the the Centrale train station.
connections to Naples, Aeolian Islands and many The Circumvesuviana
including British Airways, other Mediterranean train goes to Sorrento,
Air France, Lufthansa ports. Cruise ships also with stops along the way,
and Iberia, as well as low- make stops in Naples including archaeological
cost carriers like easyJet. and along the coast. sites such as Pompeii.
Taxis are located out- The Cumana and
side the arrivals hall, as Arriving by Road Circumflegreo trains go
well as several car rental west to the Campi Flegrei.
companies. The regular Reaching Naples by car
Alibus service runs from is possible but it is by no By Bus
the airport to Napoli means advisable for the
Centrale train station and uninitiated. As you hit The city buses in Naples
Piazza Municipio, giving Naples, there are so are not for the faint-
access to the Naples Molo many perplexing inter- hearted. The system is
Beverello for a ferry to changes, with inadequate chaotic and the old buses
Sorrento and the islands. signage, that it is easy to are dirty, crowded and
Curreri Viaggi also offer get lost. Driving along the subject to traffic jams.
a bus service from the twisty and narrow Amalfi Most bus lines have their
airport to Sorrento. Coast road is also an terminus at Piazza
adventure. Given the Garibaldi. Buy tickets
Arriving by Train intense driving experience from any local bar before
and extremely challenging boarding and validate
The train service to parking, many travellers them once on board.
Naples is operated by prefer to arrive and travel Open-top, hop-on hop-off
Italy’s national rail around Naples or the City Sightseeing buses
company, Trenitalia, and Amalfi Coast by other depart from Piazza
by Italo. Naples’ main methods of transport. Municipio and are a fun
station is called Centrale, way to discover Naples,
which offers connections Arriving by Bus as well as Sorrento and
to local bus and Metro the Amalfi Coast. The
lines, as well as the The regular bus and Amalfi Coast is also
Circumvesuviana train. coach services are a good served by the SITA
Keep in mind that there way to get to Naples and bus company.
are no train stations on other towns in the area.
the Amalfi Coast. The If arriving by bus in By Boat
closest is in Salerno, Naples you will find
which is serviced by both yourself in one of the Once here, you could
Trenitalia and Italo. main squares, Piazza stick to ferries, going
Another option is to take Garibaldi, in front of the from port to port (though
the Circumvesuviana train Centrale train station. ferries do not run on the






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Getting To and Around Naples and the Amalfi Coast ❮❮ 119


Amalfi Coast from must be displayed. A taxi By Bicycle and
November to March/ from the airport to the Motorcycle
April). Naples has two town centre is about €30.
ports, then there are the Companies include Navigating the chaotic
islands, Amalfi, Pozzuoli, Consortaxi, Consorzio traffic in and around
Sorrento, Positano and Taxi, GESCAB and Radio Naples on two wheels is
Salerno. Companies Taxi La Partenope. not recommended. It’s
include Alilauro, Caremar, a better option on the
SNAV and Travelmar. By Car islands of Procida and
Ischia, the mountainous
Tickets The minimum age for backroads along the
renting a car is 21, but Sorrentine Peninsula and
Unico Campania offers some companies will the Amalfi Coast; but be
1-day or weekly tickets for charge extra below the age prepared for narrow roads
integrated travel in Naples of 25. Most com panies and surprises around
and regional areas in require that you be covered every twist and turn.
Campania. For the Amalfi for any eventual problem,
Coast, look for the Unico including collision damage On Foot
Costiera tickets that can and theft.
be purchased per route or Getting around by car in The sights of central
1- or 3-day passes. Validate Naples and along the Naples are easy enough
tickets before departure by Amalfi Coast area is likely to get around on foot.
stamping them in the to stress even the calmest Walking is also a good way
machine on board. of drivers (cars are not to explore villages along
allowed on Capri). Traffic the Amalfi Coast, which
By Taxi jams on the Sorrentine are made up of staircases
Peninsula and the Amalfi and narrow alleys. The
There are taxi ranks Coast are maddening, car area is blessed with
throughout Naples and at theft is common, the mountain trails for hiking.
the airport. Set fares are motorways are chaotic Some of them thread their
in place and a list of and confusing, and way along old goat paths
tariffs with surcharges parking is impossible. from village to village.
DIRECTORY
ARRIVING BY AIR ARRIVING BY TRAIN SNAV
∑ snav.it
Air France Circumvesuviana
∑ airfrance.com ∑ eavsrl.it Travelmar
∑ travelmar.it
Alibus Italo
∑ anm.it ∑ italotreno.it TICKETS
Alitalia Trenitalia Unico Campania/
∑ alitalia.it ∑ trenitalia.com Costiera
∑ unicocampania.it
British Airways TRAIN, METRO AND BUS
∑ britishairways.com ANM TAXI
Capodichino Airport ∑ anm.it Consortaxi
∑ aeroportodinapoli.it City Sightseeing ∑ consortaxi.com
∑ city-sightseeing.it Consorzio Taxi Napoli
Curreri Viaggi ∑ consorziotaxinapoli.it
∑ curreriviaggi.it SITA
∑ sitasudtrasporti.it GESCAB
easyJet ∑ gescab.it
∑ easyjet.com BOAT Radio Taxi La Partenope
Iberia Alilauro ∑ radiotaxilapartenope.it
∑ iberia.com ∑ alilauro.it
Lufthansa Caremar
∑ lufthansa.com ∑ caremar.it






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120 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Practical Information


Passports and Visas gives details of the import for the Carabinieri (police),
and export regulations. State Police, Fire Brigade
Citizens of the EU can There are no limits for EU and Ambulance.
use their national identity citizens on most goods
cards to enter Italy. carried in or out of Italy Health
Visitors from outside the as long as they are for
EU need a valid passport personal use. Travellers Italy does not require
to enter the country. can import from EU any vaccinations, and
Travellers from the US, countries: 800 cigarettes, there are few health
Australia, New Zealand, 400 cigarillos, 1kg (2.2 lb) hazards. Tap water is
Canada and Japan do not of smoking tobacco, 10 potable; however, many
need a visa for stays of up litres of spirits over 22 per Italians prefer to drink
to three months as long cent proof, 20 litres of bottled water.
as the passport is valid for alcoholic beverages under For minor ailments,
six months beyond the 22 per cent, 90 litres of look for the green or red
date of entry. For longer wine (no more than 60 cross sign indicating a
stays, a visa is necessary litres of sparkling wine) farmacia (pharmacy).
and can be obtained at and 110 litres of beer. Pharmacists in Italy are
the Ministry of Foreign Travellers from non-EU highly trained and can
Affairs before arrival, and countries can import 200 serve as surrogate
once in Italy you should cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, doctors, and they can
apply at the local questura 50 cigars, 250 gr of usually prescribe just
(police station) for a smoking tobacco, 1 litre the right thing if your
permesso di soggiorno. of spirits over 22 per cent symptoms are clear.
Other nationalities proof, 2 litres of alcoholic Often, drugs that would
should check entry details beverages under 22 per require a prescription in
at their local embassy cent, 4 litres of wine and your home country can
or consulate. Italian 16 litres of beer. be sold without one in
consulates in your home Non-EU residents can Italy. If you need to fill a
country can be good claim a VAT refund on EU specific prescription, it’s
sources for detailed purchases (see p124). important to know the
information, including actual chemical in
tourism, employment, Travel Insurance question and not just its
and residency in Italy. brand name, as it may
All travellers are advised be different in Italy.
Travel Safety Advice to buy insurance against Pharmacies keep regular
theft or loss, accidents, shop hours, but there
Visitors can get up-to-date illness and travel delays will always be at least one
travel safety information or cancellations. Italy has in the area that is open
from the Foreign and a reciprocal health outside normal hours.
Commonwealth Office agreement with other EU Look for the list posted
in the UK, the State countries, and EU citizens next to the door of any
Department in the US, are automatically entitled farmacia, which will show
and the Department of to medical care in Italy if the schedule of off-hour
Foreign Affairs and Trade they have a valid European openings nearby.
in Australia. Health Insurance Card There are hospitals
(EHIC). Non-EU visitors (see Directory) covering
Customs should check if their most of the Amalfi Coast
Regulations country has reciprocal that provide 24-hour
arrangements with Italy. emergency care. If you
Italian customs is run would prefer an English-
by the Agenzia delle Emergency Services speaking doctor, contact
Dogane e dei Monopoli. your country’s consulate
Their “Traveller’s For emergencies, there in Naples for recom-
Customs Charter” are dedicated numbers mended doctors.






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Practical Information ❮❮ 121


Personal Security of organized crime far making some headway
from the regular at providing easier
Naples’ reputation as an tourist spots. access. Although prog-
unsafe city has improved Compared to Northern ress is slow, things are
drastically. However, like Europe, attitudes towards improving gradually, as
any large city it is best women travellers can more and more places try
to be cautious. Leave all be quite macho in the to upgrade in order to
valuables, including your Naples area. Still, conform to EU standards.
passport, in a hotel safety women generally do Disabled visitors will,
deposit box. Pickpockets not encounter excessive without a doubt, require
are not uncommon in harassment and can help from travelling
crowded parts of Naples, travel alone without a companions at every
particularly on public problem, especially on stage of their journey.
transport. Keep your the Sorrentine Peninsula Many older buildings,
valuables tucked away and the islands. Naturally, which are normally
in unreachable places. it is best for women to refurbished medieval
Carry wallets in front exercise normal care, structures, are often
pockets and ensure bags especially after dark. without facilities for
are strapped across your Women shouldn’t stay wheelchair users – there
front. In restaurants and around Naples’ central are endless stairways
cafés, keep your personal train station if travelling and levels to contend
belongings on your lap on their own. with, sometimes even
or tied to your person. within a single room.
Losses or thefts should Travellers with The only reliable option
be reported to the Disabilities is to stay in the newest
nearest police station. hotel you can find, where
Though petty thievery Getting around in a lifts will probably be big
is part of the scene in wheelchair in Naples and enough and bathroom
Naples, violent crimes the Amalfi Coast area is a sizes will all comply with
are quite rare. Such near impossibility without EU laws. Double-check
things generally occur assistance. The larger the facilities on offer
only in the underworld museums and sights are before booking anything.
DIRECTORY
PASSPORTS US State Department Ravello
AND VISAS ∑ travel.state.gov § 089 871 122
Ministry of Foreign CUSTOMS Capri
Affairs Agenzia delle Dogane e MAP T2 • Via Provinciale
∑ vistoperitalia.esteri.it Anacapri 3, Capri
dei Monopoli § 081 838 12 27
US Consulate ∑ agenziadogane Ischia
MAP J6 • Piazza della monopoli.gov.it Anna Rizzoli
Repubblica Via Fundera 2, Lacco
∑ naples.usconsulate.gov EMERGENCY SERVICES Ameno
Ambulance § 081 507 91 11
TRAVEL SAFETY § 118 Naples
ADVICE
Carabinieri Ospedale Cardarelli
Australia Department § 112 Via Cardarelli 9
of Foreign Affairs Fire Brigade § 081 747 11 11
and Trade § 115 Sorrento
∑ dfat.gov.au Civico
∑ smartraveller.gov.au State Police Corso Italia 1
§ 113 § 081 533 11 11
UK Foreign and
Commonwealth Office HOSPITALS
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel- Amalfi Coast
advice Via Civita, Castiglione di






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122 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Currency calling any number in programs on Sky satellite
and Banking Italy you must include TV channels can be
the area code that starts switched to the original
Italy uses the euro (€), with a zero. To call language. The popular
which is divided into 100 outside Italy, dial 00 then local radio station in the
cents. Paper notes are in the country code, area Naples area is Radio
denominations of €500, code and number. Kiss Kiss (95.9FM).
€200, €100, €50, €20, Most mobile phones Newsstands and book-
€10 and €5. Coins are will work in Italy, but it is shops sell a selection of
€2, €1, 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, advisable to check with Italian and international
2c and 1c. your provider before press. USA Today and the
ATMs (called bancomats departure. Consider International Herald
in Italy) are the easiest buying a local SIM card Tribune are generally
and safest way to get cash to avoid high roaming available in tourist areas,
while travelling and are charges. SIM cards are along with most major
also a good way to beat inexpensive and readily British, German and
commission charges at available from Italy’s French newspapers.
bureaux de change. largest cell phone The local newspaper
Italian ATMs charge no providers: TIM, Wind, published in Naples is Il
transaction fee; you’ll only Vodafone and Tre. Mattino, while the online
have your own bank’s fee Free Wi-Fi is available newspaper The Local
to pay for using a non- at many hotels, cafés and covers Italian news in
branch machine and restaurants. However, English. For events in and
possibly a foreign smaller hotels may still around Naples, pick up a
transaction fee. If you charge for internet or only copy of the free monthly
withdraw the maximum provide it in the lobby. magazine Qui Napoli.
each time (usually €300)
the fee will likely be only Postal Services Opening Hours
about 1 per cent. Banks
also normally offer better Main branches of Italy’s Post office hours are
exchange and commission Poste Italiane post offices generally 9am–6pm
rates than bureaux de are open 8:30am–7pm Monday to Friday,
change or hotels, although Monday to Friday and although during August
rates can vary from bank 8:30am–noon on many businesses close
to bank. Saturdays. In smaller mid-afternoon or entirely.
Credit cards are widely branches, rural towns or Shops are usually open
accepted in most large villages the post offices from 9am–2pm and
places. Only restaurants will often be open only 4–8pm, except in popular
and smaller businesses 8:30am–1pm from tourist areas where they
may find it a problem, Monday to Saturday. will likely remain open
because of the 2–4 per Mailboxes are red and through the lunch riposo.
cent commission that have two slots – one “per Many shops, hotels and
card companies charge la città” (local) and one restaurants close for
them. Be aware that your “per tutte le altre destin- part or all of the holiday
own bank may charge you azioni” (everywhere else). season, especially on the
a 2 per cent currency Stamps (francobolli) are Amalfi Coast, Capri and
conversion fee for every on sale at post offices and Ischia. Banks generally
card purchase you make. tobacconists (tabacchi), open 8:30am–1:30pm
If your credit card is lost and often (unofficially) at and 3–4pm from Monday
or stolen, inform the local any shop selling postcards. to Friday.
police and your credit card Museums and galleries
company immediately. TV, Radio and have their own opening
Newspapers hours, which may change
Telephone with the season, especially
and Internet Most hotels will have in coastal areas and the
satellite TV and the inter- islands. Museums and
The dialling code for national news channels historic sites will often
Italy is 39, and when that come with it. Many close one day per week,






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Practical Information ❮❮ 123


even in high season. Electrical Along the Amalfi
It is best to check their Appliances Coast, tourist information
websites before you visit. offices are located in
Nearly all banks, shops Italy uses plugs with two Amalfi, Positano and
and businesses are or three round pins and Ravello. Sorrento and
closed on public holidays: an electrical voltage and the islands of Capri and
New Year’s Day, Epiphany frequency of 220V/50Hz. Ischia also have official
(6 Jan), Easter, Easter Devices from other information offices.
Monday, Liberation Day countries will require A number of websites
(25 Apr), Labour Day (1 adapters and may need can help you research
May), Republic Day (2 voltage converters. exactly which parts
Jun), Ferragosto (15 Aug), and how much of the
All Saints Day (1 Nov), Visitor Information fascinating area you want
Immaculate Conception to cover during your visit.
(8 Dec), Christmas Day Naples has two main A notable example is the
(25 Dec) and the Feast of Azienda Autonoma di Napoli Unplugged
St Stephen (26 Dec). Soggiorno (ASST) offices website, which has
in the historic centre, detailed information in
Time Difference one near Galleria English on transport,
Umberto I and the other history, events and things
Italy is one hour ahead at Piazza del Gesù. Free to see and do in Naples.
of Greenwich Mean Time maps, brochures and Useful apps include
(GMT) and 6 hours ahead information on events and Google Maps, Google
of US Eastern Standard attractions are available Translate, TripAdvisor for
Time (EST). The clock here in multiple languages. restaurant reviews, and
moves forward 1 hour You can also contact the Travelmar for purchasing
for day light saving time Italian Tourist Board in tickets for ferries along
from the last Sunday in your home country for the Amalfi Coast, all
March until the last such information before available for Android
Sunday in October. your departure. and iOS devices.
DIRECTORY
POSTAL SERVICES ∑ amalfitouristoffice.it Azienda Autonoma di
Poste Italiane Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno Cura e
∑ posteitaliane.it Turismo Positano
Soggiorno Cura e Turismo Via Regina Giovanna 3
TV, RADIO AND Ischia and Procida § 089 87 50 67
NEWSPAPERS Via Sogliuzzo 72, Ischia ∑ aziendaturismo
Il Mattino § 081 507 42 11 positano.it
∑ ilmattino.it ∑ infoischiaprocida.it Azienda Autonoma di
The Local Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno Cura e
∑ thelocal.it Soggiorno Cura e Turismo Ravello
Qui Napoli Turismo Isola di Capri Via Roma 18
∑ inaples.it/ita/ Piazza Cerio Ignazio 11 § 089 85 70 96
quinapoli.htm ∑ ravellotime.com
§ 081 837 53 08
Radio Kiss Kiss ∑ capritourism.com Azienda Autonoma di
∑ kisskiss.it Soggiorno Cura e
Azienda Autonoma di Turismo Sorrento
VISITOR Soggiorno Cura e Via Luigi De Maio 35
INFORMATION Turismo Napoli § 081 807 40 33
Azienda Autonoma di MAP N5 • Via San Carlo 9 ∑ sorrentotourism.com
Soggiorno Cura e § 081 40 23 94 Napoli Unplugged
Turismo Amalfi ∑ napoliunplugged.com
Via delle Repubbliche MAP N3 • Piazza del Gesù
Marinare § 081 551 27 01 Travelmar
§ 089 87 11 07 ∑ inaples.it ∑ www.travelmar.it






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124 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Weather your own Neapolitan especially refined in
pizza to sampling the Naples. For more popular
The climate is typically best sweets, Eat in Italy brand name shopping, Via
Mediterranean, with provide cooking lessons Toledo, Galleria Umberto I
warm summers and cool and food tours led by (see p88) and the historic
winters. July and August experienced locals. centre are the best bet.
are very hot and humid, For a more in­depth While exploring the
with temperatures around look at Naples’ rich Sorrento Peninsula
30°–40° C (85°–105° F). archaeological sites, and islands, great buys
The best weather is world­class museums include locally made
generally found in spring and distinctive culture, ceramics, handmade
and autumn. March, April Context Travel offers paper in Amalfi, hand­
and September tend to unique and highly carved cameos or
be the rainiest months. informative tours led handmade leather
Winter is cold, dark by local historians sandals. You’ll also find
and rainy, but can offer and academics. local wines, cheeses, and
dramatic views of You will see another the popular limoncello
Vesuvius’s peak dusted side of Naples by going liqueur. Check for any
with snow. underground with Napoli restrictions on importing
For culture, visit Naples Sotterranea. Tours lead foodstuffs into your home
in the winter, when you’ll far underground and back country before you buy.
get a real feel for local life through history, from There are two main
and fewer crowds at the Greek­Roman aqueducts sales periods per year
popular sites. For swim­ to areas used as shelters that are determined by
ming, it’s difficult to avoid during World War II. the Italian government
the hot months but to For local tours in for each region. Summer
side­step the crowds, Naples and guided sales usually start at the
June or September are a excursions to Pompeii, beginning of July and run
better bet than July and Capri, Sorrento and the for 60 days. Winter sales
August, which is when Amalfi Coast, try the begin around Epiphany (6
most of Italy will be on family­run company Jan) and run until March.
holiday with you. To Rimonti Tours. Prices include VAT (IVA
appreciate the beauty In summer, there is in Italian), which currently
of the natural setting and no better way to see the stands at 22 per cent on
the quality of life, any coastline than by boat. most purchases. For
time of year is ideal. Most Local family­run company non­EU residents, VAT
hotels and restaurants Gennaro e Salvatore refunds are available for
on the Amalfi Coast and operate personalized purchases over €155 that
islands close for a period tours to admire the will be taken outside the
or the entire winter. beautiful caves and bays, EU. You will need to ask
stopping to take a dip the sales clerk for a form
Trips and Tours here and there. or card at the time of
purchase (note that not
With a wealth of history Shopping all shops participate in
and culture, there are VAT returns). VAT can be
many different ways to Naples is an excellent redeemed at the customs
enjoy a visit Naples. shopping destination, counter in the airport
Walking is one of the best with all the big Italian at your last point of
ways to explore the city, brands represented as departure from the EU.
especially in the historic well as a large selection
centre. Get a good of boutiques for designer Where to Eat
introduction to Naples on fashion, accessories
a walking tour by Free and home decor. For Famous as the birthplace
Walking Tour Napoli. upmarket shopping, the of pizza and many Italian
A visit to Naples isn’t Chiaia neighbourhood favourites, Neapolitan
complete without delving has the finest selection cuisine is loved around
deeper into the local of designer boutiques. the world. Restaurants
cuisine. From making Men’s fashion is in Naples and the






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Practical Information ❮❮ 125


surrounding area are Pompeii, Vesuvius and Naples and the
primarily dedicated to the islands (see pp131–2). surrounding areas. It is
Neapolitan cooking, and The Amalfi Coast and always worth checking
international cuisine Capri have long held a prices at the establish­
options are hard to find. reputation for being ment itself as they often
Yet with such a delightful expensive, with many feature offers that are
variety of options, from luxurious hotels having not available on booking
seafood to delicious meat taken advantage of the websites. Hostels
recipes, it’s rarely a spectacular landscape. of Naples provides
problem to find some­ You will get what you pay information about the
thing for every taste. for, however, as service best hostels in Naples,
With an endless variety and facilities are of a very Capri, Ischia, Sorrento
of traditional Neapolitan high standard. Cheaper and the Amalfi Coast.
vegetable recipes, there alternatives can be found Summer in Italy
is never a shortage of in smaller towns, such specializes in holiday
choices on the menu for as Praiano, but even villa rentals in Capri,
vegetarians and vegans. Positano and Ravello Sorrento and on the
Restaurants usually offer some budget Amalfi Coast. If you are
open from 1–3pm for accommodation (see looking to stay with
lunch and 7–10:30pm for pp130–31). private families, Rent a
dinner. Italians generally Sorrento’s reputation Bed offers a range of
eat dinner from 8–9:30pm, as a luxury resort is well choices and areas in
so expect to find the best founded, although there Naples and on the coast.
atmosphere around that is no shortage of cheaper
time. In popular tourist hotels – you will just find DIRECTORY
areas some restaurants yourself further from the
may serve continuously. centre of things and with TRIPS AND TOURS
Cafés are often open for less breathtaking views Context Travel
light meals throughout (see pp129–30). ∑ contexttravel.com
the day. Rates are the highest Eat in Italy
Restaurants rarely during peak season in ∑ eatinitaly
have children’s menus the summer and during foodtours.com
available, but are Easter and Christmas. Free Walking
usually happy to prepare Booking well in advance Tour Napoli
special pasta dishes is recommended for the ∑ freewalking
for customers. Few period from Easter through tournapoli.com
restaurants have high to October, especially for Gennaro e Salvatore
chairs, or perhaps just the Amalfi Coast, Capri ∑ gennaroesalvatore.it
one or two for the entire and Sorrento. Low season Napoli Sotterranea
establishment. specials are abundant ∑ napolisotterranea.org
in Naples and shoulder Rimonti Tours
Where to Stay season bargains are ∑ rimontitours.com
sometimes available
There is something for along the coastal areas WHERE TO STAY
all tastes and budgets in and islands. Contrary to Airbnb
the Naples and Amalfi the high season rates ∑ airbnb.com
Coast area, whether and crowds in the Amalfi Booking.com
you’re looking for five­ Coast, August can be ∑ booking.com
star luxury, a charming quieter in Naples with
villa rental in a secluded some hotels offering Hostels of Naples
∑ hostelsofnaples.com
spot or a budget­friendly lower tariffs.
hostel. In Naples, the Most hotels and Hotels.com
most convenient places hostels now have online ∑ hotels.com
to stay are in the centre booking or subscribe to Rent a Bed
of the city, making them major booking websites. ∑ rentabed.it
accessible to all the main Airbnb, Booking.com Summer in Italy
sights. Naples is also a and Hotels.com have ∑ summerinitaly.com
good base for exploring extensive listings for






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126 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Places to Stay


PRICE CATEGORIES antiquarian books. There
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast are two restaurants, one
if included), taxes and extra charges. with postcard views from
the roof garden, and an
€ under €150 €€ €150–€300 €€€ over €300 in-house spa.
Luxury Hotels modernized hotel has Grand Hotel
in Naples retained its original Art Santa Lucia
Nouveau style. Located Via Partenope 46
Costantinopoli 104 right on the bay, its lovely • 081 764 06 66 • www.
MAP N2 • Via S Maria di terrace and many rooms santalucia.it • DA • €€€
Costantinopoli 104 • 081 afford spectacular views. Though more modest,
557 10 35 • www.costan this hotel has the most
tinopoli104.it • DA • €€ Palazzo Caracciolo character of the three
This stylish hotel, with MAP Q1 • Via Carbonara “grands” that stand along
stained-glass windows 112 • 081 016 01 11 the bay. It has views of
and wrought-iron work, is • www.accorhotels.com the Castel dell’Ovo and
housed in an Art Nouveau • DA • €€ has a tasteful Art Nouveau
villa. Some rooms have a This regal hotel was once decor, along with all the
terrace. There is a pool too. the home of the aristo- comforts you may require.
cratic Caracciolo family,
Hotel San Francesco where famous guests Grand Hotel Vesuvio
al Monte such as the king of Naples Via Partenope 45
MAP K2 • Corso Vittorio and Napoleon’s brother- • 081 764 00 44 • www.
Emanuele 328, Vomero in-law were welcomed. vesuvio.it • DA • €€€
• 081 423 91 11 • www. Near the Duomo, enjoy A 1950s reincarnation
sanfrancescoalmonte.it elegant surroundings and of the original 1882
• DA • €€ modern comfort in this grandeur, which was
A former 16th-century intimate, upmarket hotel. obliterated during World
Franciscan monastery War II. It is consequently
where the now-luxurious Paradiso lacking in some of the
former monks’ cells have MAP J2 • Via Catullo 11 charm of its neighbours,
views over the bay, and • 081 247 51 11 • www. but is still the preferred
there’s a garden restaurant hotelparadisonapoli.it lodging of many visiting
with more vistas. • €€ VIPs. It is very well
A Best Western chain positioned, and the sea
Hotel Una hotel but Mediterranean in views from the upper
MAP R2 • Piazza Garibaldi feel. Perched on Posillipo floors are terrific.
9/10 • 081 563 69 01 Hill, it’s far from the city
• www.unahotels.it • DA chaos and has a terrace Hotel Excelsior
• €€ restaurant with a stunning Via Partenope 48 • 081
Part of a Florentine hotel view of Vesuvius. 764 01 11 • www.euro
chain, this restored 19th- starsexcelsior.com • €€€
century palazzo has a Grand Hotel Parker’s This belle époque palazzo
luxury interior with spa- MAP L4 • Corso Vittorio is the grande dame of
cious rooms. The rooftop Emanuele 135 • 081 761 Naples’ plush hotels,
bar has great views. 24 74 • www.grandhotel and it has seen everyone
parkers.it • DA • €€€ from movie royalty to
Miramare This fine old hotel was monarchs pass through
MAP N6 • Via Nazario a Grand Tour stopover. its elegant doors.
Sauro 24 • 081 764 75 89 Restored to its former Another of the waterfront
• www.hotelmiramare. glory, it boasts antiques, hotels, Excelsior has
com • €€ chandeliers and original commanding views of
Built in 1914 as an art. Be sure to visit the the entire bay, Vesuvius
aristocratic villa, this wonderful library, full of and Castel dell’Ovo.






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Places to Stay ❮❮ 127


Good-Value Hotels Pinto-Storey building, in one of the
in Naples MAP K5 • Via G Martucci most evocative parts of
72 • 081 68 12 60 • www. the old centre, this hotel
Hotel 241 Correra pintostorey.it • € exudes style. It’s right
MAP N2 • Via Carrera 241 Dating from 1878 and behind the cathedral.
• 081 19 56 28 42 • www. redolent of bygone days,
correra.it • DA • € this hotel is very stylish, Chiaia Hotel
Close to the Museo with Art Nouveau touches de Charme
Archeologico Nazionale, and an overall aura of MAP M5 • Via Chiaia 216
this little oasis is reached gentility. It’s in one of the • 081 41 55 55 • www.
through a gate leading nicest parts of town, close chiaiahotel.com • DA • €€
to a discreet doorway. to the Villa Comunale. This very special place
Beyond is a colourful Many rooms have great actually consists of rooms
hotel with sunny terrace views of the bay, and air in the restored palace of a
and large, bright, airy conditioning is available Neapolitan marchese. It’s
rooms. Good breakfasts. at an extra charge. appropriately located in
Royal Naples so that you
Mercure Napoli Rex can indulge all of your
Angioino Centro MAP N6 • Via Palepoli 12 aristocratic fantasies. The
MAP N4 • Via A Depretis • 081 764 93 89 • www. rooms are full of original
123 • 081 552 95 00 lifestylehotel.it/rex • € furnishings and each is
• www.accorhotels.com Located by the sea in named after one of your
• DA • € the Santa Lucia district, host’s noble ancestors.
Part of an international around the corner from
chain and very modern, Naples’ bastions of luxury, Hotel Canada
this is a comfortable this hotel is full of period MAP K2 • Via Mergellina
choice in Royal Naples. style. Most of the rooms 43 • www.seahotels.com
have views and charming • €€
Neapolis balconies. The decor is If you want to be in stylish
MAP N2 • Via Francesco simple but comfortable, Mergellina with easy
del Giudice 13 • 081 442 and breakfast is included, access to all the fun of
08 15 • www.leterrazzedi served in your room. the seafront social life, as
neapolis.com • DA • € well as hydrofoils to the
Up-to-the-minute services Toledo islands, this is the choice.
include a computer in MAP M4 • Via Rooms are homely, with
your room with internet. Montecalvario 15 caring touches here and
The location is handy for • 081 40 68 00 • www. there such as antiques
the old centre. The decor, hoteltoledo.com • € and fresh flowers.
though rather Spartan, Located in a restructured
is comfortable. Frequent 17th-century palazzo, Budget Hotels
special offers are avail- which is in the earthy in Naples
able on their website. Spanish Quarter, the
Toledo hotel is situated Albergo Duomo
Parteno halfway between Royal MAP Q3 • Via Duomo 228
MAP L6 • Lungomare Naples and the historic • 081 26 59 88 • www.
Partenope 1 • 081 245 centre. It’s convenient hotelduomonapoli.it
20 95 • € for every important • €
This establish ment monument and for all Perfectly located for
insists on calling itself a forms of public transport. visiting the old centre, this
“bed and breakfast”, but is a basic place, but very
it more closely resembles Caravaggio well maintained and not
an elegant boutique hotel. MAP P2 • Piazza without a certain charm.
The rooms are beautiful, Cardinale Sisto Riario In this price range, you
bright and airy and the Sforza 157 • 081 211 00 can’t do better. Right
service most refined. 66 • www.caravaggio across the street from the
Parteno also offers hotel.it • €€ Duomo and just steps
fully equipped self- Housed in a beautifully away from all the major
catering apartments. restored medieval sights of ancient Naples.






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128 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Bella Capri refurbished hostel offers Hotel San Pietro
MAP P4 • Via G Melisurgo both private rooms and MAP Q3 • Via San Pietro
4 • 081 552 94 94 • www. dorms. Free Wi-Fi and a ad Aram • 081 28 60 40
bellacapri.it • € communal kitchen, too. • www.sanpietrohotel.it
Located on the main • €
port, with nicely furnished Hotel des Artistes This hotel is located
rooms on the sixth floor and Hostel in historic Naples near
of a modern block – some MAP P1 • Via Duomo 61 museums, stations and
have great views of Mount • 081 192 550 86 • www. shops. The rooms are well-
Vesuvius and Capri from hoteldesartistesnaples.it furnished and clean, and
the balcony. There are good € staff are on call 24 hours
•
restaurants in the area. A friendly little place, just a day. Free parking avail-
a few blocks from the able at a nearby garage.
Europeo Museo Archeologico in one
MAP P3 • Via direction and the Duomo Capri Gems
Mezzocannone 109 in the other. Set in a period
• 081 551 72 54 • www. palazzo with a grand Villa Eva
hoteleuropeonapoli.com entrance and stairway. MAP S1 • Via La Fabbrica
• € Dorm beds are available. 8, Anacapri • 081 837 15
Modern and basic, this 49 • www.villaeva.com
hotel is well placed for Hotel Ginevra • No air conditioning • €
checking out the university MAP R1 • Via Genova 116 This paradise, close to the
area and the ancient • 081 28 32 10 • www. Blue Grotto, has an array
centre. The rooms have a hotelginevra.it • € of accommodation, and a
sense of style and some Positioned just outside pool (see p61).
are decorated with wall the station, this pensione
frescoes. These rooms is an oasis of calm. Villa Krupp
include breakfast, served MAP T2 • Viale Matteotti
on the roof terrace of the Hotel Piazza Bellini 12 • 081 837 03 62
nearby Executive Hotel. MAP N2 • Via S Maria di • www.villakrupp.com • €
Costantinopoli 101 • 081 Situated above the Gardens
Hostel of the Sun 45 17 32 • www.hotel of Augustus, this white-
MAP N4 • Via G Melisurgo piazzabellini.com • € washed stone villa used to
15 • 081 420 63 93 The comfortable rooms be Maxim Gorky’s house.
• www.hostelnapoli.com feature stylish, private A more panoramic position
• No air conditioning • € bathrooms and modern would be hard to find, even
This lively hostel has well- decor with wooden floors on this island. Beautifully
priced dormitories and and colourful artwork on decorated, in the light-
private rooms, some of the walls. The hotel is suffused Capri way, with
which have en-suite handy for Piazza Bellini antiques appropriate to
bathrooms. The location and for all the sights of its historic importance.
is excellent; situated near the old centre. A buffet
the water, it is a stone’s breakfast is included and Villa Sarah
throw from Royal Naples free Wi-Fi is available in MAP U1 • Via Tiberio
and very convenient for the public areas. 3/A • 081 837 78 17
the old centre. The • www.villasarah.it • €
atmosphere is friendly Hotel Plaza Napoli Located up towards Villa
and the staff multilingual. Piazza Principe Umberto I Jovis (see p34) from the
23 • 081 563 61 68 • www. busy centre of Capri, this
Hostel-Pensione hotelplazanapoli.it • € is a bucolic retreat. The
Mancini Away from the main hotel’s hillside position
MAP Q2 • Via P S Mancini hubbub, this Best Western affords spectacular views
33 • 081 553 67 31 hotel offers most of the of the island and the sea.
• www.hostelpensione features expected of this The old villa has been
mancini.com • € good-value American beautifully converted,
Located just a 5-minute chain: hairdryers, safes, with antique details left
walk from Centrale train minibars, lifts, air just as they were, such
station, this recently conditioning and the like. as the well in the patio.






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Places to Stay ❮❮ 129


Weber Ambassador Grand Hotel spur, enjoys great views
MAP T2 • Via Marina Quisisana and is surrounded by
Piccola • 081 837 01 41 MAP U1 • Via Camerelle 2 lush olive groves.
• www.hotelweber.com • 081 837 07 88 • www.
• € quisi.com • €€€ Hotel Savoia,
With its commanding This is the jewel in the Sorrento
position overlooking this crown of Capri exclusivity, MAP D5 • Via Fuorimura
little port and beach, this opulence, attention to 46 • 081 878 25 11
hotel makes a perfect detail and sheer scale. • www.savoia-hotel.com
hideaway. The many Restaurants, lounges, • €
terraces at several levels private rooms, pools and Ideally located in the
afford magnificent views gardens, are all serenely centre of Sorrento, this
of the famous I Faraglioni beautiful. There’s also a quaint family-run hotel
rocks, and the beach is fitness centre. is within walking distance
just steps away from all of the beach and provides
this 4-star luxury. Hotel Caesar easy access to shops,
Augustus restaurants and public
Bellavista MAP T1 • Via G Orlandi 4, transport. A delicious hot
MAP T1 • Via Orlandi 10, Anacapri • 081 837 33 95 and cold breakfast buffet
Anacapri • 081 837 14 63 • www.caesar-augustus. is included in the price.
• www.bellavistacapri. com • DA • €€€
com • DA • €€ The Caesar Augustus Nice, Sorrento
Vine-covered walkways takes its place among the MAP D5 • Corso Italia
surround the main hotel finest accommodation 257 • 081 878 16 50
building, and the rooms are options in the world. Its • www.hotelnice
airy and well-appointed. terrace dazzles with its sorrento.com • €
position above the bay. Small, simply furnished,
A Pazziella and centrally located, this
MAP U1 • Via Fuorlovado JK Capri modest hotel is just a few
36 • 081 837 00 44 MAP U1 • Via Marina blocks from the main
• www.royalgroup.it/ Grande 225 • 081 838 square of Sorrento.
apazziella/it • €€ 41 11 • www.jkcapri.com
The overall impression • €€€ Piccolo Paradiso,
here is light-filled fresh- Standing proud above Massa Lubrense
ness, cool colours and the port and painted MAP D5 • Piazza
serenity, yet it’s just a few white, this luxury hotel Madonna della Lobra 5,
steps away from the high- makes a conscious effort Marina di Lobra • 081
life in La Piazzetta and the to recall the island’s 878 92 40 • www.piccolo-
shops and restaurants. ancient heritage – this paradiso.com • €
A wonderful place for spot is where the Emperor A simple yet well laid-out
a Capri sojourn. Tiberius had one of his hotel with a lovely pool
villas. There is private and stunning sea views.
Capri Palace access to a small beach
Hotel and Spa as well as a heated out- La Tonnarella,
MAP U1 • Via door swimming pool. Sorrento
Capodimonte 2b • 081 Breakfast is included. MAP D5 • Via Capo 31
978 01 11 • www.capri • 081 878 11 53 • www.
palace.com • DA • €€€ Sorrentine latonnarella.it • €
After a makeover the Peninsula Sojourns With its clifftop setting
comfort at the Capri Palace and elegant interiors,
is astounding. The beauty Hotel La Primavera, this is an amazing find;
and spa treatments are Massa Lubrense it fills up very fast, so
excellent. There’s a large MAP D5 • Via IV book in advance. Guests
swimming pool and some Novembre 3G • 081 878 can enjoy the pleasant
suites even have their 91 25 • www.laprima private beach and a good
own pools. The hotel’s vera.biz • € restaurant in a wonderful
L’Olivo is a Michelin- This small restaurant- glass-walled setting with
starred restaurant. hotel, perched on a rocky panoramas of the bay.
For a key to hotel price categories see p126





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130 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Bellevue Syrene, position, extensive well- best restaurants in town.
Sorrento manicured gardens and There are superb vistas
MAP D5 • Piazza della grounds, and lavish public from the foyer.
Vittoria 5 • 081 878 10 24 and private spaces. One
• www.bellevue.it • DA of the world’s best. Hotel Caruso,
• €€ Ravello
Built on the ruins of a Imperial Hotel MAP E4 • Piazza San
2nd-century BC Roman Tramontano, Sorrento Giovanni del Toro 2
villa, this pretty hotel MAP D5 • Via Veneto 1 • 089 85 88 01 • www.
carries the Roman theme • 081 878 25 88 • www. hotelcaruso.com • €€€
forward with Pompeian hoteltramontano.it • DA Housed in an 11th-century
decor in some rooms and • €€€ palace, touches of its
even a Jacuzzi that has This is another fabulous original splendour
been made to resemble property, built on top abound. The view of the
a Roman bath. of a Roman villa and coastline from the infinity
frequen ted by the great pool is breathtaking.
Grand Hotel and regal. Guests have
La Medusa, included Romantic poets Hotel Palumbo and
Castellammare Shelley and Byron. A pool, Palumbo Residence,
di Stabia gardens and striking Ravello
MAP E4 • Via Passeggiata panoramas render it as MAP E4 • Via S Giovanni
Archeologica 5 • 081 872 unforgettable today as it del Toro 16 • 089 85 72 44
33 83 • www.lamedusa was in Grand Tour times. • www.hotel-palumbo.it
hotel.com • DA • €€ • €€€
This grand country villa Amalfi Coast Stays The 12th-century Palazzo
has an array of elegant Confalone has been
touches, from terracotta Lidomare, Amalfi converted into one of the
vases adorning the gate MAP E4 • Largo area’s finest hotels. Its fine
to the busts of Roman Piccolomini • 089 87 13 architecture reveals Arabic
emperors, as well as 32 • www.lidomare.it and Oriental influences,
gardens, fountains and a • No air conditioning • € and many of its columns
pool. Rooms are spacious A charming, family-run are ancient Greek and
and the dining is superb. pensione with mostly large, Roman. The service is
airy rooms, tiled floors and impeccable, while the
Hotel Capo La Gala, antique furniture. views and the restaurant
Vico Equense are unsurpassed.
MAP D4 • Via Luigi Serio Luna Convento,
8, Scrajo • 081 879 87 47 Amalfi Monastero Santa
• www.capolagala.com MAP E5 • Via Pantaleone Rosa, Conca dei
• Open Apr–Oct • €€ Comite 33 • 089 87 10 02 Marini
In a stunning spot along • www.lunahotel.it • €€ MAP E5 • Via Roma 2
the Sorrentine Coast, this This former convent has • 089 832 11 99 • www.
resort is hewn out of the a unique position at one monasterosantarosa.com
living rock. There are only end of Amalfi, clinging • €€€
22 rooms, each with a sea to a cliff, with a fortified Dramatically situated
view and guests have tower on the promontory at the edge of a cliff
access to sulphur baths, that is now used for overlooking the coastline,
a private beach and a special events. The rooms this former convent has
good restaurant. are tiny but charming, been exquisitely trans-
and the pool is a big draw. formed into a luxurious
Grand Hotel retreat, complete with
Excelsior Vittoria, Villa Maria, Ravello terraced garden, top-
Sorrento MAP E4 • Via Trinità 14 notch spa and dreamy
MAP D5 • Piazza Tasso 34 • 089 85 72 55 • www. infinity pool. The refined
• 081 877 71 11 • www. villamaria.it • €€ decor is perfectly in
exvitt.it • DA • €€€ This atmospheric villa keeping with the
Historic and utterly offers cooking courses historic atmosphere
beautiful, with its clifftop and boasts one of the and secluded setting.






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Places to Stay ❮❮ 131


Palazzo Avino, signature Amalfi Coast gardens. A tennis court
Ravello style, with vibrant majolica and parking facilities are
MAP E4 • Via S Giovanni tiles and antiques. The located nearby.
del Toro 28 • 089 81 81 pool is small, but there
81 • www.palazzoavino. is a gym, and the hotel Il Monastero, Ischia
com • €€€ restaurant is renowned. MAP A4 • Castello
Opened in 1997 in a Aragonese, Ischia Ponte
13th-century palace, the Villa Cimbrone, • 081 99 24 35 • www.
decor is a ravishing blend Ravello castelloaragonese.it
of Moorish and European MAP E4 • Via Sta Chiara • No air conditioning • €
elements. Other highlights 26 • 089 85 74 59 • www. This hotel occupies part
include incredible views, villacimbrone.com • €€€ of the monastery of the
a fabulous restaurant and Inimitably captivating with Castello itself. Conse-
a beach club. its frescoed ceilings, price- quently the rooms are
less antiques and amazing quite basic, but the views
San Pietro, Positano views and gardens. are prized.
MAP E5 • Via Laurito 2
• 089 87 54 55 • www. Island Charmers Villa Angelica, Ischia
ilsanpietro.it • €€€ MAP A4 • Via IV
This five-star hotel is just Casa Gentile Hotel, Novembre 28, Lacco
east of Positano proper in Procida Ameno • 081 99 45 24
an isolated spot. No fewer MAP B4 • Marina Corricella • www.villaangelica.it • €
than 20 terraces, hewn 88 • 081 896 77 99 • No A sunlit setting, hospitality
out of the rock, feature air conditioning • € and Mediterranean archi-
individual guest rooms Glowing pink at one end tecture is what greets
with private balconies of the port, this attractive you upon arrival. It has
and Jacuzzis. A lift takes hotel is reached on foot a spa, and the sea is on
guests down to the foyer down worn stone stairs. your doorstep.
from the car park, and a The rooms are spacious,
second lift delivers you to and there’s also a private B&B Villa Marinella,
the private beach. Children pier where guests can Ischia
under 10 not permitted. anchor their boats. MAP A4 • Via Castiglione
66, Casamicciola Terme
Santa Caterina, Hotel Crescenzo, • 091 842 07 54 • www.
Amalfi Procida villamarinellaischia.it • €€
MAP E5 • Strada MAP B4 • Marina della This elegant B&B is ideally
Amalfitana 9 • 089 87 10 Chiaollella 33 • 081 896 located between the main
12 • www.hotelsanta 72 55 • www.hotel ports of the island, Ischia
caterina.it • €€€ crescenzo.it • € Porto and Casamicciola
Amalfi’s finest hotel is This little hotel is known Terme, and is also close
perched on a clifftop above as much for its excellent to the thermal parks.
the town. Its beautifully fish restaurant as for its The rooms are large and
appointed rooms and accommodation. Some individually decorated.
“honeymoon” suites are of the rooms give direct Bicycles available for hire.
airy and decorated with access onto the harbour.
antique furniture. Gardens, La Casa sul Mare,
a pool, a lift to the private Hotel Terme Punta Procida
beach and two restaurants del Sole, Ischia MAP B4 • Salita Castello
add to the overall luxury. MAP A4 • Piazza Maltese, 13, Corricella • 081 896
Forio • 081 98 91 56 87 99 • www.lacasa
Le Sirenuse, • www.casthotels.com sulmare.it • €€
Positano • € Housed in a renovated
MAP E5 • Via Cristoforo Situated in the heart of a building dating from 1700,
Colombo 30 • 089 87 50 quiet, flower-filled part of this hotel is at the foot
66 • www.sirenuse.it • €€€ the island, this attractive of the acropolis of Terra
A palatial establishment hotel is not far away Murata. Most rooms enjoy
that attracts well-heeled from sandy beaches and views of the picturesque
guests. It’s decorated in the famous Poseidon fishing village.
For a key to hotel price categories see p126





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132 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Miramare e Castello, Agriturismos, or private terrace; all have
Ischia Villas and B&Bs en-suite bath rooms. Apart-
MAP A4 • Via Pontano 5, ments are also available.
Ischia Ponte • 081 99 13 Agriturismo
33 • www.miramare Il Casale, Bacoli Il Giardino di Vigliano,
castello.alysandyischia. MAP B4 • Contrada Coste Massa Lubrense
com • €€ di Baia, Via Selvatico 12 MAP D5 • Località
The premium rooms • 081 523 51 93 • www. Villazzano • 081 533 98 23
here have balconies ilcasaleagriturismo.com • www.vigliano.org • €
with bay vistas, but all • No air conditioning • € The name originates from
accommodation is on the The farmhouse here is Roman times, as does the
beach and in sight of the actually situated in an site, and the panorama
Castello Aragonese. Other volcano that died out over inspires poets even to
pluses include elegant 10,000 years ago. In this this day. Lemon groves
public areas and lots of impressive scenery, you abound, their fragrance
facilities – a spa and can appreciate the adding a sweet note to
beauty centre, a private changing of the seasons. the air of total relaxation
beach, and three on offer at this villa.
swimming pools, one Agriturismo
with thermal water. La Ginestra, Hotel Punta Chiarito,
Vico Equense Ischia
Albergo Regina MAP D4 • Via Tessa 2, MAP A4 • Via Sorgeto 51,
Isabella and Royal Santa Maria del Castello Forio • 081 90 81 02
Sporting, Ischia • 081 802 32 11 • Closed Nov–Dec
MAP A4 • Piazza S • www.laginestra.org • www.puntachiarito.it
Restituta 1, Lacco Ameno • No air conditioning • € • €
• 081 99 43 22 • www. The farm’s organically Given its spectacular
reginaisabella.it • €€€ grown produce tempts position, it’s little wonder
This hotel may have been most guests to sign on that guests refer to the
at its best in the 1950s, for half-board. The farm- place as a paradise. It is
but it still has a charming house has airy rooms, surrounded by colourful
air of sophistication. In a many of which have good and fragrant vegetation
good location overlooking views down to the sea. while a natural source of
the sea, facilities include thermal water fills basins
a swimmming pool jutting Agriturismo created with local stone.
out over the beach and Marecoccola,
spa services. Sorrento Residence La
MAP D5 • Via Malacoccola Neffola, Sorrento
Il Moresco Grand 10 • 081 533 01 51 • € MAP D5 • Via Capo 21
Hotel, Ischia Amid citrus trees and • 081 878 13 44 • www.
MAP A4 • Via E Gianturco countless paths to hidden neffolaresidence.com
16, Ischia Porto • 081 98 beaches, this farm has • No air conditioning • €
13 55 • www.ilmoresco.it been run by the same “Neffola” is the name of a
• €€€ family for over a century. fresh spring coming out
The Neo-Moorish Minimum 3-night stay. of the rocks outside the
architecture, the spa and town of Sorrento. This
the careful service have Casa Cosenza, charming building has
made this hotel the Positano been restored and is sur-
meeting point of an MAP E5 • Via Trara rounded by lovely gardens.
international clientele. Genoino 18 • 089 87 50 63
Situated in the most • www.casacosenza.it • € Il Roseto Resort,
beautiful corner of the A sunny B&B run by a Sorrento
island, the refined villa is local family, Casa Cosenza MAP D5 • Corso Italia 304
set in a lush green park stands halfway down the • 081 878 10 38 • www.
surrounding a thermal Positano hillside, offering ilrosetosorrento.com • €
pool, and is just a few stunning views from its Complete with a lush
steps away from its own tiled terrace. The rooms lemon-tree grove and a
private beach. vary – some have a balcony pool, this family-run B&B






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Places to Stay ❮❮ 133


offers a comfortable stay Hostel A’ Scalinatella, Ostello Mergellina,
not far from the centre of Atrani Naples
Sorrento. The rooms have MAP E5 • Piazza Umberto Salita della Grotta a
views overlooking the sea I 5–6 • 089 87 14 92 Piedigrotta 23 • 081
or the garden. • www.hostelscalinatella. 761 23 46 • DA • No
com • No credit cards credit cards • No air
Il Vitigno, Ischia • No air conditioning • € conditioning • €
MAP A4 • Via Bocca 31, In this family-run operation This hostel may not
Forio • 081 99 83 07 there are dormitory rooms be very central, but the
• www.ilvitigno.com with private bathrooms, district and the position
• No air conditioning • € and apartments scattered are attractive in their own
This wonderfully earthy all over town, up and right. The rooms are well
farm has a rustic rock- down the staircases that maintained and the staff
pool, a large terracotta serve as streets here. is extremely friendly and
tile terrace, and white- helpful. Private double
washed elegance. It is Hostel Brikette, rooms are available and
also known in the area Positano the evening meal is a
for its excellent cuisine. MAP E5 • Via G Marconi real bargain for the area.
358 • 089 87 58 57 Doors close early but a
Hostels and • www.brikette.com • € receptionist will let you
Camping Decorated with mosaic in after curfew.
tiles and the owner’s
Averno Camping, murals, this eclectic hostel Vulcano Solfatara
Pozzuoli offers friendly and helpful Camping, Pozzuoli
MAP C3 • Via service. A variety of rooms MAP C3 • Via Solfatara
Montenuovo Licola Patria are available, including 161 • 081 526 74 13
85, Arco Felice Lucrino those with en-suite bath- • www.solfatara.it
• 081 804 26 66 • No air rooms and sea views. • No air conditioning • €
conditioning • € Near a bus stop and only Services here include a
Among the facilities on minutes from the beach. bar, a swimming pool,
offer here are a tennis and even a restaurant.
court, a pool, a Jacuzzi, a Hostel delle Sirene, For exploring the city of
sauna, a bar, a restaurant, Sorrento Naples, this is definitely
a gym and a disco. There MAP D5 • Via degli the best camp site in the
are also bungalows to rent. Aranci 160 • 081 807 29 area, located conveniently
25 • www.hostellesirene. near both a metro stop
Camping Mirage, net • No credit cards and the port of Pozzuoli
Ischia • No air conditioning • € for island trips in the
MAP A4 • Via Marconi 37, This self-proclaimed “VIP area, as well. There
Barano • 081 990 551 backpacker” establish- are also independent
• www.campingmirage.it ment is the best deal in bungalows for rent.
• No air conditioning • € town. Although short on
A great choice along the views, it’s convenient Zeus Camping,
sandy beach known as enough to everything of Pompeii
Spiaggia dei Maronti. importance, and is right MAP E4 • Via Villa dei
behind the train station. Misteri • 081 861 53 20
Fabric Hostel, Naples • www.campingzeus.it
MAP L2 • Via Bellucci Nube d’Argento • DA • No credit cards
Sessa 22 • 081 776 58 74 Camping, Sorrento • No air conditioning • €
• www.fabrichostel.com MAP D5 • Via Capo 21 Just steps away from
• € • 081 878 13 44 • www. the archaeological site,
Housed in a former fabric nubedargento.com • No within the grounds of this
factory, this hostel is lively credit cards • No air verdant camp site you’ll
year-round, and with multi- conditioning • € find a bar, a restaurant
lingual staff. It offers a A pleasant camp site that and shops. For those
variety of rooms that are enjoys views of Vesuvius. who prefer not to be
available for families, Facilities include pools under canvas, there are
singles or groups. and a restaurant. also bungalows for rent.
For a key to hotel price categories see p126





126-133_Top_10_Naples.indd 133 20/09/2016 15:42

134 ❯❯ General Index

General Index

A Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer Cameos 21, 68, 96, 106
Abbazia di San Michele (Ravello) 37, 71 Campania Artecard 71
Arcangelo (Procida) 105 Augusteo (Naples) 90 Camping 133
Accommodation 125–33 Canova, Antonio 52
Achilles and Chiron (fresco) B Capo Posillipo 112
21 B&Bs 132–3 Capodanno 73
Agriturismo 132–3 Bacoli 114, 115, 132 Capodimonte 10, 22–3,
Air travel 118, 119 Badia della Santissima 44–5, 48, 78
Airport transfers 71 Trinità (Cava de’ Tirreni) itineraries 7
Alemanno, Pietro and 102 royal park 53
Giovanni 29 Baia 63, 111, 112, 113 Cappella see Chapels
Alexander the Great Mosaic Ballet 47 Capri 7, 11, 34–5, 102, 103
20 Banking 122 beaches 58
Alfonso I, King (Alfonso V Baptistry (Duomo, Naples) drives 55
of Aragon) 14 17 nightlife 107
Alfonso II, King 14 Barons’ Hall (Castel Nuovo, places to eat/drink 61,
Amalfi 7, 11, 36–7, 103, Naples) 87 108–9
104 Bars see Nightlife places to stay 128–9
beaches 59 Bartolomeo, Fra’ 22, 23, 78 shopping 69, 106
festivals 73 Basilicas sights 53, 61, 62, 105
market 69 Herculaneum 21 walks 54, 102
places to eat/drink Ischia 105 Capri Town 34, 103
108–9 Paestum 38 Car travel 119
places to stay 130–31 Santa Restituta 16, 17 Caracciolo, Battista 48
shopping 106 Bassolino, Antonio 43 Caravaggio, Michelangelo
sights 49, 53, 105 Beaches 58–9 Merisi da 22, 44, 51, 78
Amalfi Coast 11, 100, 103 spiaggia libera 71 Carnevale 72
drives 55 Beckett, Ernest 37 Carracci, Annibale 13
ferry trip 71 Beer 67 Carthusian Order 26
places to stay 130–31 La Befana 72 Caruso, Enrico 47
sights 104 Belisarius, General 42, 43 Casamicciola (Ischia) 103
walks 55, 102 Bellini, Giovanni 22 Casanova, Giacomo 102
Amphitheatres Bellini, Vincenzo 47 Caserta 53, 55, 113, 115
Anfiteatro Flavio (Pozzuoli) Benevento 114, 115 Castellammare di Stabia 33,
112, 113 Bernini, Pietro 50, 52 59, 96
Paestum 38 Madonna with Child 28 places to eat 97
Pompeii 30 Biblioteca Nazionale 12 places to stay 130
Amusement parks 64 Blue Grotto (Capri) 35, 54 Castles and fortifications
Anacapri (Capri) 35, 55, 73, Boat travel 118–19 Castel Nuovo (Naples) 6,
102, 106 Boccaccio, Giovanni 14, 45 10, 14–15, 87, 89
restaurants 109 Book shops 91 Castel dell’Ovo (Naples) 7,
Angevin dynasty 42 Borromini, Francesco 78 70, 88
Aniello, Tommaso 43 Botticelli, Sandro 78 Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples)
Antiques 68, 81, 91 Madonna with Child and 7, 27, 89
Antiquities, copies of 68 Two Angels 22, 44 Castello Aragonese (Baia)
Aosta, Dukes of 22 Bourdichon, Jean, Triptych 112, 113
Appian Way 114 28 Castello Aragonese
Aquarium (Villa Comunale, Bradyseism 110 (Ischia) 105
Naples) 64, 88 Bramante, Donato 17 Castrati 47
Aragonese rulers 14 Brancaccio, Cardinal Catacombs
Arch of Trajan (Benevento) Rinaldo 44 San Gaudioso (Naples)
114 Brothel (Pompeii) 30 62
Archaeological area Budget hotels (Naples) San Gennaro (Naples) 17,
(Duomo, Naples) 17 127–8 63
Archaeological site Bus travel 118, 119 Cathedrals
(Pozzuoli) 111 Byzantine siege 42 Duomo (Amalfi) 36, 104
Arco Naturale (Capri) 34, 71 Duomo (Naples) 6, 10,
Area Archeologica de Santa C 16–17, 50, 71, 77, 79
Restituta (Ischia) 105 Cafés Duomo (Pozzuoli) 113
Art shops 91 The Islands, Sorrento and Duomo (Ravello) 37
Artists 44–5 the South 108 Duomo (Salerno) 102
Associazione Scarlatti Spaccanapoli to Cava de’ Tirreni 102
(Naples) 90 Capodimonte 83 Cavallini, Pietro, Crucifixion
Astroni 114 Toledo to Chiaia 93 44, 80
Atignano market (Naples) 69 Caffè Gambrinus (Naples) Caves
Atrani 24–5, 37, 104, 133 89, 93 Blue Grotto (Capri) 35, 54
Auden, W.H. 101 Camaino, Tino di 28 Green Grotto (Capri) 62
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Caves (cont.) Churches (cont.) Corso Garibaldi market
Grotta dello Smeraldo San Domenico Maggiore (Naples) 69
(Conca dei Marini/ (Naples) 44, 80 Craft shops 81
Praiano) 104 San Francesco di Paola Croce, Benedetto 45
Napoli Sotteranea 62 (Naples) 40–41, 50, 87, 89 Crucifixion (Cavallini) 44
Sibyl’s Grotto (Cumae) 63, San Giovanni a Carbonara Cruise ships 118
113 (Naples) 29, 78 Crypt of the Succorpo
Centro di Musica Antica San Gregorio Armeno (Duomo, Naples) 17
Pieta de’ Turchini (Naples) (Naples) 72, 73, 79, 80 Crypta Neapolitana 63
90 San Lorenzo Maggiore Cuciniello Presepe 29
Ceramics (Naples) 80 Culture Week 73
Museo Archeologico San Pancranzio (Conca dei Cumae 55, 63, 113
Nazionale (Naples) 18 Marini) 104 Currency 122
Museo Nazionale della San Paolo Maggiore Customs regulations 120,
Ceramica Duca di Martina (Naples) 80 121
(Naples) 49, 89 San Pietro ad Aram Cycling 119
Paestum 39 (Naples) 51 Cyclops 113
Porcelain Parlour San Pietro a Maiella
(Capodimonte, Naples) 23 (Naples) 80 D
shopping 68, 81, 91, 106, San Salvatore de’ Bireto Dancing Faun (bronze) 20
124 (Atrani) 104 Daniele, Pino 46
Vietri sul Mare 104 Santa Chiara (Naples) 6, Dante, statue of 52
Certosa di San Giacomo 50, 77, 79 Decumano Maggiore 54
(Capri) 105 Santa Lucia (Naples) 51 Desserts 67
Certosa di San Martino Santa Maria delle Anime Diocletian, Emperor 17, 113
(Naples) 7, 11, 26–9, 51, del Purgatorio ad Arco Disabled travellers 121
87 (Naples) 79, 80 Discos see Nightlife
art works 45, 48 Santa Maria Assunta Domenichino 45
Cetara 59, 98–9, 104 (Positano) 37, 56–7 Donatello 44, 80
Chapels Santa Maria del Carmine Donizetti, Gaetano 47
Cappella di San Gennaro (Naples) 72, 80 The Doryphoros (bronze) 21
(Duomo, Naples) 16, 45 Santa Maria di Douglas, Norman 35
Cappella Minutolo Donnaregina Vecchia Drinks 67
(Duomo, Naples) 17 (Naples) 80 Drives 55
Cappella Palatina (Castel Santa Maria del Faro Dungeons (Castel Nuovo,
Nuovo, Naples) 14 (Posillipo) 114 Naples) 15
Cappella Palatina (Palazzo Santa Maria Maggiore Duomo see Cathedrals
Reale, Naples) 13 (Naples) 50 Dürer, Albrecht 78
Certosa di San Martino Santa Maria del Parto
(Naples) 27 (Naples) 51 E
San Giovanni a Carbonara Sant’Angelo a Nilo Earthquakes 110
(Naples) 78 (Naples) 44, 79, 80 Easter 72
Sansevero Chapel (Naples) Santi Apostoli (Naples) 78 Edenlandia 64
6, 79 Santuario di San Gennaro Egyptian antiquities 19, 21
Charles, Duke of Calabria 26 (Pozzuoli) 113, 114 Electrical appliances 123
Charles I of Anjou 14, 16 see also Cathedrals; Emergency services 120,
Charles III of Spain 23, 38, Chapels; Monasteries and 121
43, 89, 96 convents Erchie 59
Charles V, Emperor 14 Cimitero delle Fontanelle Ercolano
Charles VII of Naples see (Naples) 62 Resina market 69
Charles III of Spain Cinema 47 restaurants 97
Chiaiolella Port (Procida) 102 Circumvesuviana 71, 118, villas 96
Children’s attractions 64–5 119 see also Herculaneum
Chiostro Grande (Certosa di City Baths (Herculaneum) 32 Estate a Napoli 73
San Martino, Naples) 27 Clothes shops 81, 91
Chocolate shops 83, 91 Clubs see Nightlife F
Choir (Certosa di San Codazzi, Viviano 78 Falanga Forest 102
Martino, Naples) 26 Coffee 67 Fanzago, Cosimo 52
Christmas 73 Colombo, Giacomo 27 I Faraglioni (Capri) 34
Churches 50–51, 80 Colonna, Vittoria 105 Farinelli (Carlo Broschi) 47
A Morning at old Naples’ Conca dei Marini 61, 104, Farnese Bull 20, 88
Churches 79 130 Farnese Collection 18, 19,
Basilica of Santa Maria Concerti al Tramonto (Villa 20, 22, 48
della Sanità (Naples) 62 San Michele, Anacapri) Farnese Cup 21
Gesù Nuovo (Naples) 79, 73 Farnese Hercules 20
80 Coral 68, 96, 106 Ferdinand I, King 89
Monte di Pietà (Naples) 50 Corenzio, Belisario 50 Ferdinand IV, King 19, 43
Pio Monte della Corradini, Antonio 28 Ferragosto 73
Misericordia (Naples) 51, Correale di Terranova Ferrante I, King 14
79 (Sorrento) 105 Ferries 71, 118
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136 ❯❯ General Index


Festival delle Ville Vesuviane Le Grottelle Restaurant The Islands, Sorrento and
73 (Capri) 61 the South 100–109 (cont.)
Festivals 72–3 Guercino (Giovanni nightlife 107
Fiera Antiquaria Francesco Barbieri) 13, 87 pizzerie, cafés and
Neapoletana 69 Guglia dell’Immacolata 73, gelaterie 108
Film see Cinema 78, 79 restaurants 109
Fish and seafood 67 shopping 106
Font (Duomo, Naples) 16 H sights 101–5
Fontana, Domenico 12 Health 120, 121 Italy, Unification of 43
Food Herculaneum 6, 11, 32–3, 95 Itineraries
Neapolitan dishes 66–7 artifacts from 18, 21 A Day in Royal Naples 89
street food 71 Hermes at Rest (sculpture) A Day’s Island Hopping
see also Restaurants 20 103
Forio (Ischia) 100, 102 Hiking see Walks A Morning in Ancient
Fornillo Beach (Positano) 37 History 42–3 Pozzuoli 113
Forum (Pompeii) 8–9, 30 Hospitals 120, 121 A Morning at old Naples’
Fountains 52–3 Hostels 125, 133 Churches 79
Fontana Hotels 125, 126–32 Seven days in Naples and
dell’Immacolatella Amalfi Coast 130–31 the Amalfi Coast 7
(Naples) 52 Capri 128–9 Two days in Naples 6–7
Fontana del Nettuno Islands 131–2
(Naples) 52, 89 Naples 126–8 J
Piazza Sannazzaro romantic 60, 61 Jazz 82, 92
(Naples) 53 Sorrento Peninsula Jewellery shops 81, 91, 106
Sebeto Fountain (Naples) 129–30 Joan I, Queen 43
52 House of the Faun (Pompeii) Joan II, Queen 114
Francis of Assisi, St 29 20, 31 Judith and Holofernes
Free attractions 70–71 House of the Golden Cupids (Gentileschi) 22, 45
Funicular railways 65 (Pompeii) 31 Justinian, Emperor 42
G House of Menander K
(Pompeii) 30
Il Gabinetto Segreto (Museo House of the Mosaic Atrium Kennedy-Onassis,
Archeologico Nazionale, (Herculaneum) 32 Jacqueline 35
Naples) 18, 19 House of Neptune and
Galleria Toledo (Naples) Amphitrite (Herculaneum) L
90 32–3 Lago d’Averno 112
Galleria Umberto I (Naples) House of the Stags Lanfranco, Giovanni 27, 28,
6, 70, 88, 89, 116–17 (Herculaneum) 32 78
Garibaldi, Giuseppe 43 House of the Tragic Poet Lazzaroni 46
Gelaterie (Pompeii) 21 Leather goods 81, 91, 124
The Islands, Sorrento and House of the Vettii (Pompeii) Limoncello 67, 91, 106, 124
the South 108 31 Lippi, Filippino 78
Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the House of the Wooden Livy 114
North 115 Partition (Herculaneum) Loren, Sophia 46
Spaccanapoli to 33 Low season 71
Capodimonte 83 Lucullus 88
Gemito, Vincenzo 15, 23 I Lungomare 54
Gennaro, San 17, 63, 77, Ibsen, Henrik 101 Luxury hotels (Naples) 126
113, 114 Icons of popular culture Lysippus 20
Gentileschi, Artemisia, 46–7
Judith and Holofernes 22, L’Immacolata 73 M
45 Inner Courtyard (Castel Madonna with Child (Bernini)
Giordano, Luca 13, 45, 48, Nuovo, Naples) 15 28
105 Innocent II, Pope 43 Madonna with Child and
Triumph of Judith 45 Insurance 120 Angels (Botticelli) 22
Giotto 14, 44 Intarsio (marquetry) 69, 106 Madonna di Piedigrotta 73
Glassware 91 Internet 122 Maggio dei Monumenti 73
Glykon of Athens 20 Ischia 100, 101, 103 Magna Graecia 39, 42
Goethe, J.W. von 102 beaches 58 Maiori 104
The Golden Mile (Il Miglio nightlife 107 Mantegna, Andrea 78
d’Oro) 96 places to eat/drink 108–9 Marechiaro 61, 111
Goldwork 68 places to stay 131–2, 133 Maria Amalia, Queen 23, 96
Gorky, Maxim 35 sights 49, 53, 105 Maria Carolina, Queen 43
Gouaches 68 spas 59 Marina di Cantone 103
Greeks, ancient 38–9, 42, 49, walks and drives 55, 102 Marina Corricella (Procida)
101 The Islands, Sorrento and 102
Green Grotto (Capri) 62 the South 100–109 Marina di Furore 59
Greene, Graham 35 A Day’s Island Hopping Marina Grande (Capri) 34, 55
Grieg, Edvard 37 103 Marina Grande (Sorrento) 70
Grotte see Caves map 100–101 Marina di Lobra 103
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General Index ❮❮ 137


Marina Piccola (Capri) 34, 65 Museums and galleries O
Marina di Praia 59, 107 (cont.) Off the beaten track 62–3
Marina di Sancio Cattolico Museo Civico (Castel Opening hours 122–3
(Procida) 102 Nuovo, Naples) 14–15 Oplontis 33, 95
Markets 69 Museo Diego Aragona Opspedale delle Bambole 65
Maronti Beach (Ischia) 103 Pignatelli Cortes (Naples) Ordoñez, Bartolomé 78
Martina, Duke of 89 49 Orio, Orazio de 26
Martini, Simone 22 Museo Nazionale della
Masaccio 44 Ceramica Duca di Martina P
Massa Lubrense 103, 129, (Naples) 49, 89 Paestum 11, 38–9, 49, 55,
132 Museo di San Martino 101
Mazzuoli, Giovanni 26 (Naples) 28–9, 48 itineraries 7
Medrano, Antonio 22, 96 Museobottega della restaurants 108
Mercadante (Naples) 90 Tarsialignea (Sorrento) 48 Palaces
Metro 118, 119 Museum of the Treasure Capodimonte (Naples) 10,
Michelangelo 23, 78 of San Gennaro (Naples) 22–3, 78
Minori 70, 104, 105 16, 17 Palazzo Donn’Anna
Mobile phones 122 Palazzo Reale paintings (Posillipo) 114
Monasteries and convents collection (Naples) 13 Palazzo Reale (Naples) 6,
Abbazia di San Michele Parco Archeologico e 10, 12–13, 87, 89
Arcangelo (Procida) 105 Monumentale di Baia 111 Palazzo dello Spagnolo
Badia della Santissima Pietrarsa Railway (Naples) 78
Trinità (Cava de’ Tirreni) Museum (Portici) 64 Reggia di Caserta 113
102 Pinacoteca Girolamini Reggia di Portici 96
Certosa di San Giacomo (Naples) 48 Paper-making 68, 106
(Capri) 105 Science City (Bagnoli) 64, Parco Sommerso (Baia) 63
Certosa di San Martino 114 Parks and gardens 53
(Naples) 26–9, 45, 48, 51, Music Capodimonte (Naples) 53
87 bars and clubs 82 Castel Nuovo (Naples) 15
Monastero Santa Rosa festivals 37, 73 Certosa di San Martino
(Conca dei Marini) 61, 130 Neapolitan song 46 (Naples) 27
Money-saving tips 71 opera legends 47 Gardens of Augustus
Monks’ Cemetery (Certosa performing arts venues 90 (Capri) 53, 61
di San Martino, Naples) 27 shops 81 La Mortella (Ischia) 53
Monte Epomeo (Ischia) 101, Orto Botanico (Naples) 53,
102 N 79
Monte Solaro (Capri) 35, 102 Naccherino, Michelangelo Palazzo Reale gardens
Montepertuso 102 52 (Naples) 13
La Mortella (Ischia) 53 Naples Parco Archeologico e
Motorcycles 119 churches 50–51, 80 Monumentale di Baia 111
Mount Vesuvius see getting around 118, 119 Parco Virgiliano (Naples)
Vesuvius nightlife 82, 92 53, 111
Murat, King Joachim 43, 87 places to eat/drink 83–5, Reggia di Caserta 53, 113
Museums and galleries 93 Santi Marcellino e Festo
48–9, 71, 105 places to stay 126–8, 133 Cloister (Naples) 53
Arsenale Museum (Amalfi) romantic spots 60 Villa Cimbrone (Ravello) 53
105 shopping 81, 91, 124 Villa Comunale (Naples)
Capodimonte (Naples) 10, Spaccanapoli to 53, 64, 71, 88
22–3, 44–5, 48, 78 Capodimonte 76–85 Villa La Floridana (Naples)
Centro Musei delle Toledo to Chiaia 86–93 53
Scienze Naturali (Naples) walks 54–5, 79, 89 Parthenope 43
64 Napoleon I, Emperor 43 Pasqua 72
MADRe (Naples) 63 Napoli Sotterranea 62 Passes 71
Museo Antiquarium Natale 73 Passports 120, 121
Equano (Vico Equense) Nativity figures/scenes 29, Pasticcerie
105 46, 69, 73, 81 The Islands, Sorrento and
Museo Archeologico dei Neapolis 39, 42 the South 108
Campo Flegrei (Baia) 113 Neapolis Festival 73 Spaccanapoli to
Museo Archeologico Neapolitan song 46 Capodimonte 83
Georges Vallet (Piano di Nerano 103 Performing arts venues
Sorrento) 105 Newspapers 122, 123 (Naples) 90
Museo Archeologico Nightlife Personal security 121
Nazionale (Naples) 7, 10, The Islands, Sorrento and Peter, St 51
18–21, 48, 77 the South 107 Petrarch 14, 45
Museo Archeologico Spaccanapoli to Petronius 45
(Paestum) 38–9, 49 Capodimonte 82 Philosophers 45
Museo Archeologico di Toledo to Chiaia 92 Philoxeno 20
Pithecusae (Ischia) 49 Nisida 111 Phlegrean Fields 55, 112,
Museo della Carta (Amalfi) Nocella 102 113
36, 49 Norman conquest 42 Phrase book 142–3
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138 ❯❯ General Index


Piazzas 52–3 Pottery see Ceramics Safety
Piazza Bellini (Naples) 52, Pozzuoli 73, 111, 113, 114 personal security 121
79 places to eat 115 travel safety advice 120
Piazza Dante (Naples) 52 places to stay 133 Sala dei Baroni (Castel
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo Praiano 104 Nuovo, Naples) 14
(Naples) 54, 73, 78, 79 Presepi see Nativity figures/ Sale di Ercole (Palazzo
Piazza del Plebiscito scenes Reale, Naples) 12
(Naples) 12, 52, 89 Preti, Mattia 13 Salerno 7, 102
Piazza Duomo (Amalfi) 53 Print shops 81, 91 San Carluccio (Naples) 90
Piazza Duomo (Ravello) 53 Procida 74–5, 102, 103 San Gaudioso Catacombs
Piazza San Domenico beaches 58 (Naples) 62
(Naples) 79 places to eat 109 San Gennaro Catacombs
Piazza Sannazzaro places to stay 131 (Naples) 17, 63
(Naples) 53 sights 105 San Gennaro (festival) 72
Piazza Tasso (Sorrento) 53 Public transport 71 San Giovanni (festival) 72
La Piazzetta (Capri) 53 Pulcinella 46, 72, 81 San Pasquale market
Pietrarsa Railway Museum Punta Campanella 103 (Naples) 69
(Portici) 64 Punta Carena (Capri) 35 Sandals, handmade (Capri)
La Pignasecca market Puteoli 111 69, 106
(Naples) 69 Sanfelica, Ferdinando 78
Pignatelli Cortes, Prince Q Sangro, Prince Raimondo di
Diego Aragona 49 Quarto del Priore (Certosa 79
Pinturicchio 22 di San Martino, Naples) 27 Sanmartino, Giuseppe 27,
Piscina Cardito (Pozzuoli) Le Quattro Giornate 28
113 Napoletane 43 Sannazaro (Naples) 90
Piscina Mirabile (Bacoli) 114 Sannazaro, Jacopo 51
Pizza 66, 124 R Santa Maria Capuavetere
Pizzafest (Naples) 73 Radio 122, 123 114
Pizzerie Rail travel 118, 119 Santa Maria del Carmine
The Islands, Sorrento and Raphael 22, 23, 78 (festival) 72
the South 108 Ravello 7, 11, 36–7, 103, 104 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi
Spaccanapoli to music 37, 73, 107 109
Capodimonte 84 places to eat 61, 109 Sant’Angelo (Ischia) 103
Toledo to Chiaia 93 places to stay 130–31 Savoy, House of 22
Plague (1656) 43 shopping 106 Scala 37, 104
Pliny the Elder 21 sights 53, 60, 71 Scala Fenicia (Capri) 102
Pliny the Younger 33, 45 walks and drives 55 Scugnizzi 46
Poggioreale market 69 Regata Storica (Amalfi) 73 Sea travel 118
Politeama (Naples) 90 Reggia di Caserta 113 Sentieri degli Dei (Amalfi
Polyclitus of Argos 21 Reggia di Portici 96 Coast) 102
Pompeii 6, 8–9, 11, 30–33, Religious celebrations 72–3 Shopping 124
95 Rembrandt 78 The Islands, Sorrento and
artifacts from 18, 20 Restaurants 124–5 the South 106
places to eat 97 The Islands, Sorrento and markets 69
places to stay 133 the South 109 souvenirs 68–9
Poppaea family 31 Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the Spaccanapoli to
Poseidonia 38, 39 North 115 Capodimonte 81
Posillipo 15, 58, 69, 114 romantic 60, 61 Toledo to Chiaia 91
Posillipo, Pozzuoli and the Spaccanapoli to Sibyl’s Grotto (Cumae) 63,
North 110–15 Capodimonte 85 113
A Morning in Ancient Toledo to Chiaia 93 Sicilian Vespers 42
Pozzuoli 113 Vesuvius and around 97 Siloe, Diego de 78
map 110–11 Ribera, Jusepe 28, 45, 48 La Sirenuse (Positano) 60
places to eat 115 Rione Terra (Pozzuoli) 113 Sleeping and Drunken
sights 111–14 Ristorante Da Adolfo Satyrs 21
Positano 11, 36–7, 56–7, (Positano) 60 Solfatara (Pozzuoli) 65, 113,
103, 104 Road travel 118 114
beaches 59, 62 Robert of Anjou 14, 77 Solimena, Francesco 23, 27
festivals 73 Roger II, King 42 Somerset Maugham,
hotels 60 Romantic spots 60–61 William 35
itineraries 7 Romulus Augustulus, Song, Neapolitan 46
nightlife 107 Emperor 43 Sorrentine Peninsula
places to eat/drink 60, Rossini, Gioacchino 47 drives 55
108–9 Rothschild family 49 places to stay 129–30
places to stay 131, 132, walks 55
133 S Sorrento 7, 102
sights 70 Sacrifice of Iphigenia beaches 58
walks and drives 55, 102 (fresco) 21 drives 55
Postal services 122, 123 Sacristy (Certosa di San nightlife 107
Poster shops 81 Martino, Naples) 26 places to eat/drink 108–9
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General Index ❮❮ 139


Sorrento (cont.) Titian 13, 22, 44, 78 Villas (cont.)
places to stay 129–30, Toledo to Chiaia (Naples) Villa Campolieto
132–3 86–93 (Ercolano) 96
shopping 69, 106 A Day in Royal Naples 89 Villa Cimbrone (Ravello)
sights 48, 53, 70, 105 map 86 37, 53, 60
Souvenirs 68–9 nightlife 92 Villa Comunale (Naples)
Spaccanapoli 6, 54, 70 performing arts venues 90 53, 64, 71, 88
Spaccanapoli to places to eat 93 Villa of Crassus (Oplontis)
Capodimonte 76–85 shopping 91 33
A Morning at old Naples’ sights 87–9 Villa Eva Resort (Anacapri)
Churches 79 Tomb frescoes (Paestum) 61
cafés, gelaterie and 39, 49 Villa Favorita (Ercolano) 96
pasticcerie 83 Tomb of Virgil 63 Villa La Floridiana (Naples)
map 76–7 Torre Annunziata 95 53, 60
nightlife 82 Torre del Greco 96, 97 Villa Jovis (Capri) 34, 54,
pizzerie 84 Totò 46 103
restaurants 85 Trajan, Emperor 111, 114 Villa Krupp (Capri) 34
shopping 81 Travel 118–19 Villa Maria Restaurant
sights 76–80 safety advice 120 (Ravello) 61
Spadarino (Giovanni Galli) 87 Trellis House (Herculaneum) Villa dei Misteri (Pompeii)
Spadaro, Micco 28–9 32 31
Spartacus 43 Trips and tours 124, 125 Villa dei Papiri
Spas 59 Triptych (Bourdichon) 28 (Herculaneum) 21, 32
Spiaggia di Fornillo Triumph of Judith (Giordano) Villa Pignatelli (Naples) 49
(Positano) 62 45 Villa Romana (Minori) 70,
Spinelli, Principe Tarsia 23 Triumphal Arch (Castel 104, 105
Stabiae 33 Nuovo, Naples) 14, 86, 87 Villa Rufolo (Ravello) 37,
Stabian Baths (Pompeii) 30 Troisi, Massimo 47 73, 107
Stables (Palazzo Reale, Tuna festival (Cetara) 104 Villa Ruggero (Ercolano)
Naples) 13 96
Stanzione, Massimo 27, 29 U Villa Sabina Poppaea
Stationery shops 91 Ulysses 113 (Oplontis) 33, 95
Stazione Zoologica (Villa Villa San Marco (Stabiae)
Comunale, Naples) 64, 88 V 33, 96
Steinbeck, John 100 Vaccaro, Andrea 48 Villa San Michele
Street food 71 Valente, Pietro 49 (Anacapri) 35, 73, 105
Suetonius 45 Valle delle Ferriere (Amalfi) Villa Volpicelli (Capo
Posillipo) 112
36, 104
T Vanvitelli, Carlo and Luigi 96 Virgil 45, 63, 88, 111
Tasso, Torquato 45 VAT 124 Virgin with Child Enthroned
Tavola Strozzi 28 Velluti, Gian Battista 47 (Vivarini) 78
Taxis 119 Verdi, Giuseppe 47 Visas 120, 121
Teatro see Theatre Vesuvian Villas 73, 96 Visitor information 123
Telephone services 122 Vesuvius and around 94–7 Vittorio Emanuel II of Italy 43
Television 122, 123 map 94 Viva, Angelo 13
Temples places to eat 97 Vivarini, Bartolomeo, Virgin
Paestum 7, 11, 38–9 sights 95–6 with Child Enthroned 78
Temple of Ceres Vesuvius, Mount 6, 8–9, 30, Volaire, Pierre-Jacques-
(Paestum) 38 31, 95 Antoine 23
Temple of Diana (Baia) 111 eruption of AD 79 33, 42, Volcanic activity 112
Temple of Neptune 95 see also Vesuvius
(Paestum) 38 walks 55, 65, 95
Terme di Nettuno (Pozzuoli) Via Positanesi d’America W
113 (Positano) 70 Wagner, Richard 37
Terra Murata (Procida) 103 Via San Sebastiano (Naples) Walking 54–5, 119
Theatres 90 81 hiking spots 102
Teatrino di Corte (Palazzo Via dei Sepulcri (Pompeii) 31 see also Itineraries; Trips
Reale) 13 Via Toledo (Naples) 54–5 and tours
Teatro Bellini (Naples) 90 Vico, Giovanni Battista 45 Walls (Paestum) 38
Teatro Nuovo (Naples) 90 Vico Equense 105, 130, 132 War Memorial Mausoleo
Teatro San Carlo 6, 47, 89 Vietri 55 (Posillipo) 114
Theatre (Pompeii) 30 Vietri sul Mare 104 Warhol, Andy 23
Thermopolia (Herculaneum) Villa rentals 125, 132–3 Weather 124
33 Villas Wine 67
Thomas Aquinas, St 45 Correale di Terranova World War I 114
The Three Guglie 78 (Sorrento) 105 World War II 43
Tiberius, Emperor 34, 102 Vesuvian Villas 73, 96 Writers 45
Tickets, travel 119 Villa Arbusto (Ischia) 49
Timante 21 Villa Arianna (Stabiae) 33,
Time difference 123 96
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140 ❯❯ Acknowledgments

Acknowledgments


Author Orti 47cra; Design Pics Inc /Richard Cummins
American-born Jeffrey Kennedy now lives 15cr; Adam Eastland 27tl, 83cra; Elenaphotos
mainly in Italy and Spain. A graduate of Stanford 54t, 106cla; FC_Italy 29tr; funkyfood London/
University, he divides his time between Paul Williams 11crb; GL Archive 20tr; Granger,
producing, acting and writing. He is the NYC. 42tc; hemis.fr/ Camille Moirenc 98-9, /
co-author of Top 10 Rome and the author Ludovic Maisant 13tr, 13cr, /René Mattes 59tl,
of the Top 10 guides to Mallorca, Miami and 108tr; Heritage Image Partnership Ltd/Fine Art
the Keys, San Francisco and Andalucia. Images Maria Amalia of Saxony), Queen of Naples
Additional Contributor by Bonito, Giuseppe 96cra; John Heseltine 30cl;
imageBROKER/Bahnmueller 114bl, /Erich
Laura Thayer Schmidt 59br; Massimo Lama 64cl; Lebrecht
Music and Arts Photo Library/The Sicilian
Publishing Director Georgina Dee Vespers by Barabino 42b; LOOK Die Bildagentur
Publisher Vivien Antwi der Fotografen GmbH /Hauke Dressler 4cl;
Design Director Phil Ormerod MARKA/ Massimiliano Bonatti 93cla; Barry
Mason 4b; Mayday 58b; nagelestock.com 1;
Editorial Michelle Crane, Rachel Fox, Ruth PAINTING/ National Museum of Capodimonte,
Reisenberger, Sally Schafer, Sophie Wright Naples/Judith Slaying Holofernes by Artemisia
Design Tessa Bindloss, Richard Czapnik Gentileschi 22br; Pacific Press/Emanuele Sessa
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Streeter Neil Setchfield 63cr; Sites & Photos/Capture Ltd
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The publisher would like to thank the following Cirkel 33tl, 94cla, 95br; Conde 51cl; Dennis
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photographs: Fedecandoniphoto 69tl; Sergii Figurnyi 102cla;
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140-141_Top_10_Naples_US.indd 140 20/09/2016 15:42

Acknowledgments ❮❮ 141


Orti19br; Lonely Planet 82tr, 92bl; Mondadori
Portfolio 28b; Sergio Anelli/Electa /Mondadori
Portfolio 23tl; UIG/Leemage 21clb; Peter Unger
30crb; Eric Vandeville 32cl.
Milleunaceramica: 106bc. Printed and bound in China
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Museo MADRE, Naples: Axér / Desaxér (2015) by Published in the United States by
Daniel Buren, photo Amedeo Benestante 63tl. DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street,
Museo Nazionale Ferroviario di Pietrarsa: New York, New York 10014
Giuseppe Senese 64tr. Copyright 2004, 2016 © Dorling
Museobottega della Tarsialignea: 48bc. Kindersley Limited
Ospedale delle Bambole: Roberto Jandoli 65cr. A Penguin Random House Company
Il Principe: 97cr. 16 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Rex by Shutterstock: Courtesy Everett Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010,
Collection 46cr, 46bl; imageBROKER 12cr, 62br; 2012, 2014, 2016
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Photo Scala, Florence: courtesy of Curia written permission of the copyright owner.
Vescovile of Napoli 16-7; DeAgostini Picture Published in Great Britain by Dorling
Library 17tl, /Sammlungen des Fuersten von Kindersley Limited.
Liechtenstein, Vaduz, Liechtenstein/ Portrait of
the Royal Family of Naples. Ferdinand IV of the Two A catalog record for this book is available
Sicilies (Naples, 1751-1825) and his Wife Maria from the Library of Congress.
Carolina of Austria (1752-1814) with their Sons ISSN 1479-344X
(1783) by Angelica Kauffmann 43br; Fondo ISBN 978 1 4654 5744 8
Edifici di Culto - Min. dell’Interno 44tl; courtesy
of the Ministero Beni e Att. Culturali 19tc, 28c, /
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ceasing the plague by Gargiulo, Domenico (called
Micco Spadaro 1612-1679) 43tl, Certosa di San
Martino, Naples/ Triumph of Judith by Luca
Giordano 44cl.
Teatro Bellini: 90crb.
Cover
Front and spine: Getty Images: Francesco SPECIAL EDITIONS OF
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access; D = dinner; L = lunch.




140-141_Top_10_Naples_US.indd 141 20/09/2016 15:42

142 ❯❯ Top 10 Naples and the Amalfi Coast

Phrase Book yellow giallo jal-loh
green verde vair-deh
blue blu bloo
In an Emergency
Help! Aiuto! eye-yoo-toh Types of Shop
Stop! Ferma! fair-mah bakery il forno/ eel forn-oh/
Call a Chiama un kee-ah-mah panificio panee-fee-cho
doctor medico oon meh-deekoh bank la banca lah bang-kah
Call an Chiama un’ kee-ah-mah oon bookshop la libreria lah lee-breh-
ambulance ambulanza am-boo-lan-tsa ree-ah
Call the Chiama la kee-ah-mah lah cake shop la pasticceria lah pas-tee-
police polizia pol-ee-tsee-ah chair-ee-ah
Call the fire Chiama i kee-ah-mah ee chemist la farmacia lah far-mah-
brigade pompieri pom-pee-air-ee chee-ah
Communication Essentials delicatessen la salumeria lah sah-loo-

meh-ree-ah

Yes/No Sì/No see/noh department il grande eel gran-deh
Please Per favore pair fah-vor-eh store magazzino ma-gad-zeenoh
Thank you Grazie grah-tsee-eh grocery alimentari ah-lee-men-
Excuse me Mi scusi mee skoo-zee tah-ree
Hello Buongiorno bwon jor-noh hairdresser il parrucchiere eel par-oo-kee-
Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-veh-dair- air-eh
chee ice-cream la gelateria lah jel-lah-tair-
Good evening Buona sera bwon-ah sair-ah parlour ree-ah
What? Che? keh market il mercato eel mair-kah-toh
When? Quando? kwan-doh newsstand l’edicola leh-dee-koh-lah
Why? Perchè? pair-keh post office l’ufficio postale loo-fee-choh
Where? Dove? doh-veh pos-tah-leh
Useful Phrases supermarket il supermercato eel su-pair-mair-
kah-toh


How are you? Come sta? koh-meh stah tobacconist il tabaccaio eel tah-bak-
Very well, Molto bene, moll-toh beh-neh eye-oh
thank you. grazie. grah-tsee-eh travel agency l’agenzia lah-jen-tsee-ah
Pleased to Piacere pee-ah-chair-eh di viaggi dee vee-ad-jee
meet you. di conoscerla. dee coh-noh-
shair-lah Sightseeing
That’s fine. Va bene. va beh-neh art gallery la pinacoteca lah peena-koh-
Where is/ Dov’è/ dov-eh/ teh-kah
are…? Dove sono…? doveh soh-noh bus stop la fermata lah fair-mah-tah
How do I Come faccio per koh-meh fah-cho dell’autobus dell-ow-toh-
get to…? arrivare a…? pair arri-var-eh a booss
Do you Parla inglese? par-lah een- church la chiesa/ lah kee-eh-zah
speak English? gleh-zeh basilica bah-seel-ee-kah
I don’t Non capisco. non ka-pee-skoh closed for chiuso per kee-oo-zoh pair
understand. holidays ferie fair-ee-eh
I’m sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dee-spee- garden il giardino eel jar-dee-no
ah-cheh museum il museo eel moo-zeh-oh
Shopping railway station la stazione lah stah-tsee-
oh-neh


How much Quant’è, kwan-teh tourist l’ufficio loo-fee-choh del
does this cost? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh information del turismo too-ree-smoh
I would like… Vorrei… vor-ray
Do you have…? Avete…? ah-veh-teh Staying in a Hotel
Do you take Accettate ah-chet-tah-teh Do you have Avete camere ah-veh-teh
credit cards? carte di credito? kar-teh dee any vacant libere? kah-mair-eh
creh-dee-toh rooms? lee-bair-eh
What time do A che ora apre/ a keh ora ah-preh/ double room una camera oona kah-mairah
you open/close? chiude? kee-oo-deh doppia doh-pee-ah
this one questo kweh-stoh with double con letto kon let-toh mah-
that one quello kwell-oh bed matrimoniale tree-moh-nee-
expensive caro kar-oh ah-leh
cheap economico ee-con-om-ee-coh a room una camera oona ka-mair-ah
size (clothes) la taglia lah tah-lee-ah with bath/ con bagno/ kon ban-yoh/
size (shoes) il numero eel noo-mair-oh shower doccia dot-chah
white bianco bee-ang-koh twin room una camera oona kah-mairah
black nero neh-roh con due letti kon doo-eh
red rosso ross-oh let-tee
142-143_Top_10_Naples.indd 142 20/09/2016 15:42

Phrase Book ❮❮ 143


single room una camera oona kah-mairah l’insalata leen-sah-lah-tah salad
singola sing-goh-lah il latte eel laht-teh milk
I have a Ho fatto una oh fat-toh oona il manzo eel man-tsoh beef
reservation prenotazione preh-noh-tah- l’olio loh-lee-oh oil
tsee-oh-neh il pane eel pah-neh bread
Eating Out le patate leh pah-tah-teh potatoes
le patatine
leh pah-tah-
chips
Have you got Avete un ah-veh-teh fritte teen-eh free-teh
a table for…? tavolo per… ? oon tah-voh- il pepe eel peh-peh pepper
loh pair il pesce eel pesh-eh fish
I’d like to Vorrei prenotare vor-ray pre-noh- il pollo eel poll-oh chicken
reserve a table un tavolo ta-reh oon il pomodoro eel poh-moh- tomato
tah-voh-loh dor-oh
breakfast colazione koh-lah-tsee-oh- il prosciutto eel pro-shoo-toh ham
neh cotto/ kot-toh/ cooked/
lunch pranzo pran-tsoh crudo kroo-doh cured
dinner cena cheh-nah il riso eel ree-zoh rice
the bill il conto eel kon-toh il sale eel sah-leh salt
waitress cameriera kah-mair-ee- la salsiccia lah sal-see-chah sausage
air-ah il succo eel soo-koh orange
waiter cameriere kah-mair-ee- d’arancia dah-ran-chah juice
air-eh il tè eel teh tea
fixed-price il menù a eel meh-noo ah la torta lah tor-tah cake/tart
menu prezzo fisso pret-soh fee-soh l’uovo loo-oh-voh egg
dish of piatto del pee-ah-toh dell vino vee-noh white wine
the day giorno jor-no bianco bee-ang-koh
starter l’antipasto lan-tee-pass-toh vino rosso vee-noh ross-oh red wine
first course il primo eel pree-moh lo zucchero loh zoo-kair-oh sugar
main course il secondo eel seh-kon-doh la zuppa lah tsoo-pah soup
vegetables i contorni ee kon-tor-noh
dessert il dolce eel doll-cheh Time
wine list la lista dei lah lee-stah day one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
vini vee-nee one hour un’ora oon or-ah
glass il bicchiere eel bee-kee-air-eh a day un giorno oon jor-noh
bottle la bottiglia lah bot-teel-yah Monday lunedì loo-neh-dee
knife il coltello eel kol-tell-oh Tuesday martedì mar-teh-dee
fork la forchetta lah for-ket-tah Wednesday mercoledì mair-koh-leh-dee
spoon il cucchiaio eel koo-kee- Thursday giovedì joh-veh-dee
eye-oh Friday venerdì ven-air-dee
Saturday sabato sah-bah-toh
Menu Decoder Sunday domenica doh-meh-nee-ka
l’acqua lah-kwah mineral water
minerale meenair-ah-leh Numbers
gassata/ gah-zah-tah/ fizzy 1 uno oo-noh
naturale nah-too-rah-leh still 2 due doo-eh
agnello ah-niell-oh lamb 3 tre treh
aglio al-ee-oh garlic 4 quattro kwat-roh
al forno al for-noh baked 5 cinque ching-kweh
alla griglia ah-lah greel-yah grilled 6 sei say-ee
la birra lah beer-rah beer 7 sette set-teh
la bistecca lah bee-stek-ah steak 8 otto ot-toh
il burro eel boor-oh butter 9 nove noh-veh
il caffè eel kah-feh coffee 10 dieci dee-eh-chee
la carne la kar-neh meat 11 undici oon-dee-chee
carne di kar-neh dee pork 17 diciassette dee-chah-set-teh
maiale mah-yah-leh 18 diciotto dee-chot-toh
la cipolla la chip-oh-lah onion 19 diciannove dee-cha-noh-veh
il formaggio eel for-mad-joh cheese 20 venti ven-tee
le fragole leh frah-goh-leh strawberries 30 trenta tren-tah
il fritto eel free-toh mixed fried 40 quaranta kwah-ran-tah
misto mees-toh seafood 50 cinquanta ching-kwan-tah
la frutta la froot-tah fruit 60 sessanta sess-an-tah
frutti di froo-tee dee seafood 70 settanta set-tan-tah
mare mah-reh 80 ottanta ot-tan-tah
i funghi ee foon-ghee mushrooms 90 novanta noh-van-tah
i gamberi ee gam-bair-ee prawns 100 cento chen-toh
il gelato eel jel-lah-toh ice cream 1,000 mille mee-leh
142-143_Top_10_Naples.indd 143 20/09/2016 15:42

144 ❯❯ Street Index

Selected Naples Street Index

Amedeo, Piazza K5 Duomo, Via P2 Nilo, Via P2 S Lucia, Via M6
Amendola, Piazza K6 Egiziaca a Forcella, Via Nunziatella, Largo M6 S Marcellino, Vico P3
Amore, Piazza Nicola Q2 Orilia, Via P3 S Maria ad Agnone,
Q3 Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone, Orsini, Via Generale N6 Vico Q1
Annunziata, Via Q2 Via M6 Pace, Vico della Q2 S Maria Apparente,
Anticaglia, Via P1 Falcone, Via Aniello J4 Paladino, Via G P3 Salita L5
Arcoleo, Via L6 Falcone, Via C Q2 Pallonetto a S Chiara, S Maria degli Angeli,
Armanni, Via L P1 Fico al Purgatorio, Vico Via N3 Piazza M6
Ascensione, Via K6 P2 Pallonetto S Lucia, Via S Maria di
Atri, Via P2 Figurari, Vico P2 M6 Costantinopoli, Via N2
Banchi Nuovi, Via N3 Filangieri, Via G L5 Pallonetto, Vico Storto S Maria la Scala, Piazza
Bausan, Via G K6 Fiorelli, Via L6 M6 Q2
Bellini, Piazza N2 Firenze, Via R1 Parco Margherita, Via S Nicola dei Caserti, Via
Bellini, Via N2 Forcella, Via Q2 del K5 Q2
Bisignano, Via L6 Foria, Via N1 Pepe, Piazza R3 S Pasquale a Chiaia, Via
Bovio, Piazza Giovanni Fornari, Via L5 Petrillo, Vico P1 K6
P4 Fornelli, Viale L5 Petronio, Via N6 S Pietro a Maiella, Via
Brancaccio, Rampe L5 Gaetani, Via L6 Pisanelli, Via P2 N2
Burali d’Arezzo, Via Q2 Gagliardi, Piazzeta N1 Pizzofalcone, Via Nuova S Sebastiano, Via N2
Calabritto, Via L6 Garibaldi, Corso R2 M6 S Severino, Via P3
Calascione, Viale M6 Garibaldi, Piazza R2 Plebiscito, Piazza M5 S Severino, Vico P2
Calenda, Piazza Q2 Gerolamini, Vico dei P2 Poerio, Via C L6 S Teresa a Chaia, Via K5
Campanile SS Gerolamini, Piazza P2 Pontenuovo, Salita Q1 S Teresa degli Scalzi, Via
Apostoli, Vico P1 Gesù e Maria, Piazza Port’Alba, Via N2 N1
Capasso, Via B P3 M2 Portanova, Piazza P3 Sanfelice, Via G N4
Capozzi, Via P1 Gesù Nuovo, Piazza del Portanova, Via P3 Sanfelice, Via L K4
Cappella a Ponte, Vico N3 Porto, Piazzetta N4 Sangro, Via P2
Q1 Giordano, Via Luca J4 Preti, Via Mattia J4 Sapienza, Via N2
Cappelluccia, Piazza M2 Giudice, Via del N2 Principessa R Pignatelli, Scacchi, Piazzeta P3
Caracciolo, Via Grande Archivio, Via P2 Via K6 Scarlatti, Via A J4
Francesco K6 Imbriani, Via M B M1 Regina Coeli, Largo P2 Scura, Via P M3
Carbonara, Via Q1 Imbriani, Via V K6 Rodinò, Piazza L6 Sedil Capuano, Vico Q1
Carducci, Via G K5 Ischitella, Vico L6 Rosa, Via Salvatore M1 Serra, Via M6
Carità, Piazza N3 Limoncello, Vico P1 Rosaroll, Via Q1 Sersale, Vico C Q2
Cavour, Piazza N1 Loffredi, Via P1 S Agostino alla Zecca, Settembrini, Piazzetta
Cesare, Via de N6 Longo, Via M P1 Via Q2 P1
Cesario Console, Via N6 Longo, Vico Q1 S Aniello, Larghetto N1 Settembrini, Via Luigi
Chiaia, Riviera di K6 Madonna delle Grazie, S Arcangelo a Baiano, P1
Chiaia, Via M5 Largo N1 Via Q2 Sisto Riario Sforza,
Cimbri, Via Q2 Maffei, Vico P2 S Biagio dei Librai, Via Piazza P2
Cinquesanti, Vico P2 Marina, Via Nuova Q3 P2 Sole, Via del N2
Cirillo, Via P1 Marinella, Via della R3 S Brigida, Via N5 Solitaria, Via M6
Cisterna dell’Olio, Via Martiri, Piazza dei L6 S Carlo alle Mortelle, Solitaria, Vico M6
N3 Martucci, Via G K5 Piazzetta L5 SS Apostoli, Via Q1
Colletta, Via Pietro Q2 Masaniello, Piazza Q3 S Carlo alle Mortelle, Via Starace, Via Q3
Colombo, Via Cristoforo Mattonelle, Vico Q1 L5 Tari, Via P3
P4 Medina, Via N4 S Carlo, Via N5 Tasso, Via J5
Colonna, Via V K5 Mercato, Piazza Q3 S Caterina a Formiello, Toledo, Via M4
Consolazione, Vico P1 Merliani, Via Giovanni Vico Q1 Tribunali, Via dei P2
Conte di Ruvo, Via N2 J3 S Caterina da Siena, Via Trieste e Trento, Piazza
Crecchio, Via de N2 Mezzocannone, Via P3 M5 M5
Crispi, Via F J5 Mille, Via dei L5 S Caterina, Via L6 Trinchera, Via Q1
Croce a S Agostino, Miraglia, Piazza N2 S Chiara, Via N3 Umberto I, Corso P3
Vico Q2 Miroballo al Pendino, S Domenico Maggiore, Vasto a Chiaia, Vico L5
Croce, Via B N3 Via P3 Piazza N2 Verdi, Via G N5
Cuma, Via N6 Mondragone, Vico L5 S Domenico Maggiore, Vespucci, Via Amerigo
Cuoco, Via K6 Monte di Dio, Via M6 Vico N2 R3
Dante, Piazza N2 Monteoliveto, Via N3 S Gaudioso, Vico N2 Vetreria, Vico L5
De Gasperi, Via Alcide Morelli, Via D L6 S Geronimo, Vico P3 Vetriera, Salita L5
P4 Municipio, Piazza N5 S Giovanni Maggiore, Vicaria Vecchia, Via Q2
Depretis, Via A N4 Museo Nazionale, Largo P3 Vittoria, Piazza L6
Di Massimo, Via A J4 Piazza N1 S Giuseppe dei Ruffi, Vittorio Emanuele,
Diaz, Via A N4 Nardones, Via M5 Via P1 Corso M4
Domenico Cimarosa, Nazario Sauro, Via N6 S Gregorio Armeno, Via Vittorio Emanuele III, Via
Via K4 Nicola, Piazza de Q1 P2 N5
144_Top_10_Naples.indd 144 20/09/2016 15:42