(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Sicily

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP

SICILY












ELAINE TRIGIANI














































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Top 10 Sicily The Top 10 of
Highlights Everything

Welcome to Sicily ...........................5 Moments in History .....................42
Exploring Sicily ...............................6 Ancient Sites.................................44
Sicily Highlights ............................10 Places of Worship ........................46
Palermo ........................................12 Castles ..........................................48
Monreale .......................................14 Museums ......................................50
Aeolian Islands .............................16 Vestiges of Invading Powers ........52
Taormina ......................................18 Customs and Traditions ..............54
Mount Etna ...................................20 Artists, Writers and
Syracuse .......................................24 Composers ...............................56
Noto ..............................................28 Villages .........................................58
Villa Romana del Casale .............30 Beaches ........................................60
Agrigento and the Outdoor Activities .........................64
Valle dei Templi ........................32 Children’s Attractions ..................66
Selinunte ......................................36 Puppet Traditions .........................68
Performing Arts Venues ..............70
Nights Out ....................................72
Wine and Wine Producers ...........74
Sicilian Dishes ..............................76
Restaurants ..................................78
Pasticcerie and Gelaterie ............80
Specialist Shops and Areas .........82
Sicily for Free ................................84
Feasts and Processions ...............86







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CONTENTS



















Sicily Streetsmart
Area by Area

Palermo ........................................90 Getting To and Around Sicily .....134
Northwest Sicily ...........................98 Practical Information .................136
Northeast Sicily .........................108 Places to Stay .............................142
Southwest Sicily .........................116 General Index .............................148
Southeast Sicily .........................124 Acknowledgments .....................157
Phrase Book ...............................159








The information in this DK Eyewitness Top
10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy material on third-party websites, and cannot
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in guarantee that any website address in this
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly.
Front cover and spine The medieval town of Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness
Cefalù, with its striking cathedral Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
Back cover A boat on Isola Bella London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
beach, Taormina [email protected]
Title page Agrigento Temple of Concordia




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Top 10 Sicily ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Sicily





Sicily has always been an intriguing crossroads of cultures
and civilizations. At the tip of the Italian peninsula, its
strategic position in the Mediterranean sea attracted
visitors and invaders alike. Nowadays, the wealth of ancient
sights, stunning natural beauty and family-friendly beaches
make Sicily an ideal and unforgettable holiday destination.
With Eyewitness Top 10 Sicily, it’s yours to explore.
Over the centuries Sicily has been part of Greater Greece, a Roman
province, a Byzantine stronghold, an Arab Caliphate, a Norman
kingdom, a pawn for Spain and the Bourbons, and ultimately part
of a unified Italy. The vestiges of bygone eras are ever-present, so
it is no surprise that the island has developed a powerful identity
all of its own – so much so that the great German writer Johann
Wolfgang von Goethe said that “without Sicily, Italy creates no image
in the soul; here is the key to everything”.

Today, Sicily still holds that key: the largest island in the Mediterranean
is an explosion of colours and idiosyncrasies that are both enticing
and baffling to visitors. But as you stroll past the crumbling ruins,
experience the liveliness of the markets as locals go about their
everyday business, observe old men playing cards in the town
square, and feast on the delectable food the island is renowned
for, it is impossible not to be charmed.

Whether you’re here for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
brings together the best of everything Sicily has to offer, from
immac ulate beaches and verdant mountains to archaeological
treasures and ornate royal palaces. The guide gives you tips
throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the crowds,
plus seven easy-to-follow itineraries designed to help you visit a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography
and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Sicily.


Clockwise from top: Cefalù; La Scala dei Turchi; church of San Cataldo, Palermo; Favignana;
Ten Girls in Bikinis mosaic at Villa Romana del Casale; Stromboli; Temple E, Selinute






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily

Exploring Sicily StromboliStromboli

Given its size and number of sites, it’s impossible to see all of FilicudiFilicudi PanareaPanarea
Salina
Sicily in less than a week. Here we help you maximise your Salina
time, with a seven-day itinerary covering the key sights in AlicudiAlicudi Lipari Lipari
Sicily, and a two-day itinerary just for the Aeolian Islands. 0 km0 km 30 30
0 miles0 miles 30 30 Golfo di Patti
Golfo di Patti
Palermo
Castellammare
Seven Days di Bonagia Castellammare Palermo Palermo Milazzo
Golfo dio di
Golf
Milazzo
del Golfo
del Golfo
Golfo Golfo
Palermo
di Bonagia
in Sicily EriceErice Monreale
Monreale
Day 1 TaorminaTaormina
Segesta
Spend the morning visiting old Segesta
Palermo (see pp12 –13) – don’t Mount EtnaMount Etna GiardiniGiardini
miss the Palazzo dei Normanni CastelvetranoCastelvetrano NaxosNaxos
and the Cappella Palatina. Lunch
at one of the city’s outdoor markets. SelinunteSelinunte
Take bus 389 from Piazza Villa RomanaVilla Romana Golfo Golfo
Indipendenza to the del Casaledel Casale di Catania
di Catania
bottom of the town, Day 3
then walk to Monreale Drive or
(see pp14–15), a take the bus AgrigentoAgrigento
glorious church from to Selinunte
the Norman era. (see pp36–9) and see SyracuseSyracuse
Marvel at the glittering what remains of the di Geladi Gela
GolfoGolfo
12th-century mosaics mighty Selinus Acropolis.
inside, then explore the The Valle dei Templi in Noto Noto Golfo Golfo
di Noto
adjacent cloisters. Villa Romana Agrigento (see pp32–5) is di Noto
del Casale home to beautiful temples.
Day 2 The Temple of Concord
Hire a car or take the train to Segesta features a Paleochristian church.
(see p44), the romantic site of the
only freestanding limestone temple Day 4
in Sicily, as well as a 3rd-century BC Drive to Villa Romana del Casale
theatre with stunning views. Head near Piazza Armerina (see pp30–31).
to Erice (see p99) and visit the View Roman-era mosaics, including
Castle of Venus, then head to Maria the famous Ten Girls in Bikinis. Drive
Grammatico to buy sweets. Stay the to Noto (see pp28–9) and spend the
night at Agriturismo Antica Tenuta afternoon exploring this Baroque town.
dei Pignatelli in Castelvetrano,“City Stay in Syracuse (see pp24–7) at the
of Olives and Temples” (see p102). Grand Hotel Minareto (see p144).
The Temple of Concordia,
Agrigento, dates from 430 BC
but is remarkably intact.




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Exploring Sicily ❮❮ 7


Key StromboliStromboli
Two-day Itinerary
Seven-day Itinerary
FilicudiFilicudi
Salina PanareaPanarea
Salina
AlicudiAlicudi
Lipari Lipari
0 km0 km 30 30
0 miles0 miles 30 30 Golfo di Patti
Golfo di Patti
Palermo
Castellammare
Castellammare Palermo Golfo dio di
Golf
Milazzo
Golfo Golfo del Golfo Palermo Milazzo
del Golfo
Palermo
di Bonagia
di Bonagia
EriceErice
Monreale
Monreale
TaorminaTaormina
Segesta
Segesta
Mount EtnaMount Etna GiardiniGiardini
NaxosNaxos
CastelvetranoCastelvetrano The Aeolian Islands each have their
own unique character and beauty.
SelinunteSelinunte
way to the beautiful Teatro Antico.
Villa RomanaVilla Romana Golfo Golfo
del Casaledel Casale di Catania Make sure you take part in the
di Catania
traditional passeggiata (evening
stroll). Before leaving Sicily, visit
AgrigentoAgrigento
the beaches at lovely Giardini Naxos
(see p109), just below Taormina,
SyracuseSyracuse
where Greek colonization began.
GolfoGolfo
di Geladi Gela
Two Days on the
Noto Noto Golfo Golfo
di Noto
di Noto Aeolian Islands
Day 5 Day 1
Syracuse was once the most MORNING
powerful city of the Mediterranean – From Milazzo go to the Aeolian
its Greek Theatre held 20,000 people. Islands (see pp16–17). Disembark at
Don’t miss the Ear of Dionysius in Lipari for the Museo Archeologico
the Latomia del Paradiso and the Regionale Eoliano (see p51).
Temple of Apollo. Explore the AFTERNOON
beautiful island of Ortygia. Take in Travel to the eastern isles with
the Piazza Duomo, then visit the Avventurisole Viaggi Eolie (www.
Cathedral, built within the Temple of eolietour.com). Pause on Panarea,
Minerva. Finish at Castello Maniace. sample pizza on Stromboli, and
watch the volcano from the boat.
Day 6
Visit Mount Etna (see pp20–21) from Day 2
Piano Provenzana. Take the cable car MORNING
at Rifugio Sapienza, and once you’ve Island hopping starts from Alicudi.
arrived at base camp, hop into one of Take the hydrofoil and head eastwards
the jeeps that shuttle visitors to the to Filicudi, famous for its lentils and
top. Take in the Valle del Bove, a capers. Next it’s east to Salina, where
valley filled with lava flow. Stop in at Malvasia grapes are harvested.
a beekeeper’s and buy some honey. AFTERNOON
Back on Lipari, visit the stunning
Day 7 Cava del Pomice, a former pumice
Taormina (see pp18–19) is home to rock quarry, now a beach. Finish the
Italy’s glitterati. Visit Palazzo Corvaja day with a drink at Il Piccolo Bar on
and the Odeon, before making your Via Marina Garibaldi, Canneto.
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Top 10 Sicily

Highlights












Temple of Juno, Valley of
the Temples, Agrigento













































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Sicily Highlights 10 Syracuse 24
Palermo 12 Noto 28
Monreale 14 Villa Romana del Casale 30
Aeolian Islands 16 Agrigento and the
Valle dei Templi 32
Taormina 18
Selinunte 36
Mount Etna 20






















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Sicily Highlights


The island of Sicily is Italy’s largest region and
its most varied. There are offshore islands,
cliffs and beaches, rugged mountains, rolling
wheatfields and volcanoes. Sicily’s history is
also of note. The Greeks, Romans, Byzantines
and Normans all left their mark on the island.

Palermo
The island capital’s history is best seen in its
architecture – medieval quarters with crumbling
Baroque churches, exquisite Arab-Norman churches Aeolian Lipari Lipari
Aeolian
Islands
and precious Art Nouveau palazzi (see pp12–13). Islands
Baronia Messina
Baronia
Messina
Milazzo
Capo d’Orlando
San Vito lo Capo Capo d’Orlando Milazzo
San Vito lo Capo
Palermo Tindari
Palermo
Monti Peloritani
Tindari
Cefalù
Monreale
Trapani Monreale Cefalù Monti Nebrodi Monti Peloritani
Trapani
Ucria
Ucria
Segesta
Santo Stefano
Segesta Santo Stefano
San Cipirello
Egadi Islands
Egadi Islands San Cipirello Cerda Cerda di Camastra Monti Nebrodi
di Camastra
Val di Mázara
Cesarò
Taormina
Corleone
Petralia
Marsala Val di Mázara Corleone Alia Alia Petralia Moun Cesarò Taormina
Marsala
Soprana
Soprana
Mountt
Nicosia
Chiusa Sclafani
Chiusa Sclafani Nicosia Etna Etna
Leonforte
Leonforte
Selinunte
Selinunte Enna Enna
Caltabellotta
Caltabellotta
Catania
Caltanissetta
Eraclea
Sciacca
Sciacca Eraclea Caltanissetta Catania
Minoa Villa Romana Piana
Minoa
Villa Romana Piana
Monreale
Aeolian Islands
di Catania
del Casale
Agrigento Caltagirone del Casale di Catania Augusta
Agrigento
Caltagirone
A spectacular
These seven volcanic
Augusta
Pantalica
Pantalica
Grammichele Necropolis
Norman monument, islands offer a live volcano, black Grammichele Necropolis Syracuse
Syracuse
the mosaic cycle at lava beaches, and food and wines Gela Gela
Monreale Cathedral is a flavoured by the sun (see pp16–17). Noto Noto
wonder of the medieval Modica
Modica
world (see pp14–15). Scicli Scicli 0 km 0 km 30 30
Taormina
0 miles
0 miles 30 30
Sicily’s first resort
has welcomed visitors for
cen turies. The town offers
breathtaking views, an
ancient theatre, and cafés
and terraces overlooking
the sea (see pp18–19).
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Sicily Highlights ❮❮ 11

Mount Etna
Syracuse
5
This once
This, the largest and most
active volcano in Europe, looms mighty Greek
powerfully over eastern Sicily colony and rival
(see pp20–21). to Athens is today
a thriving modern
city. Traces of its
former glory
include a Baroque
cathe dral and a
Greek theatre
(see pp24–7).
Lipari Lipari
Aeolian
Aeolian
Islands
Islands
Baronia
Baronia Messina
Messina
Milazzo
Capo d’Orlando
San Vito lo Capo
San Vito lo Capo Capo d’Orlando Milazzo
Palermo
Palermo Tindari
Monti Peloritani
Tindari
Cefalù
Monreale
Trapani
Trapani Monreale Cefalù Monti Nebrodi Monti Peloritani
Ucria
Ucria
Segesta Santo Stefano
Segesta
Santo Stefano
San Cipirello
Egadi Islands
Egadi Islands San Cipirello Cerda di Camastra Monti Nebrodi
di Camastra
Cerda
Val di Mázara
Cesarò
Cesarò
Taormina
Petralia
Corleone
Marsala Val di Mázara Corleone Alia Alia Petralia Moun Taormina
Marsala
Soprana
Soprana
Mountt
Nicosia
Chiusa Sclafani
Chiusa Sclafani Nicosia Etna Etna Noto
Leonforte
Leonforte
Selinunte Enna Enna Destroyed by an earth quake in
Selinunte
Caltabellotta
Caltabellotta
Catania
Sciacca
Sciacca Eraclea Caltanissetta Catania 1693, Noto was rebuilt during the
Caltanissetta
Eraclea
Minoa
Minoa
Villa Romana Piana
Villa Romana Piana 1700s, when the
del Casale di Catania
del Casale di Catania
Agrigento
Agrigento Baroque style
Caltagirone Pantalica Augusta was at its height
Caltagirone
Augusta
Pantalica
Grammichele Necropolis
Grammichele Necropolis
Syracuse
Syracuse (see pp28–9).
Gela Gela
Noto Noto
Modica
Modica
Scicli Scicli
0 km 0 km 30 30
0 miles 30 30
0 miles
Villa Romana

del Casale
Agrigento
The extensive mosaic
decorations of this The famed Valle dei
luxurious Roman villa Templi is home to ruined Greek
are the best preserved temples that stand, as they
of their kind in the have for 2,500 years, against
world (see pp30–31). a backdrop of the distant sea
(see pp32–5).
Selinunte

Another of Sicily’s remarkable
ancient sites, the romantic remains
of Greek Selinus reign spectacularly
from a promontory high above the sea.
This is the largest archaeological park
in Europe (see pp36–9).
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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Palermo

When the Phoenicians founded Palermo in 735 BC, they named it
Zyz (“flower”), such was the beauty of its verdant hills, dotted with
fruit trees and native flora. This greenery is still visible, especially
along the paths that wind their way up to the former Phoenician
fortress, now the Palazzo dei Normanni. Palermo is now Sicily’s
buzzing artistic centre, home to grand opera houses, tiny theatres
and avant-garde museums. There’s plenty of culture, whether
you’re visiting the former church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti or
meandering past the delightfully stuccoed Oratorio di San Lorenzo.

Cathedral
1
Founded in 1185,
the cathedral (right) is
an eclec tic mix of archi-
tectural styles. Admire
the 12-century apse, the
porphyry royal tombs,
the crypt and the trea-
sury housing Empress
Constance’s crown.














Palazzo dei
Palermo 5 4
1 3 Normanni
The royal palace is
V. DELLA
CALA
testament to the city's
San Cataldo
500 metres
2 8 Arab-Norman heritage.
VI A ROMA
Its Punic foun da tions, the
This church
VIA MAQUEDA
(above) is an example 400 VIA AVITTORIO EMANUELE dazzling mosaics of La
metres
of the Arab-Norman 0 V IA R OMA ABRAMO
the Torre Gioaria (Arab
architecture that flour- LINCOLN Stanza di Ruggero and
ished across Sicily under CORSO wind tower) embody its
TUKORI
Norman control. Its roof 6 long history.
has three red domes and
Palazzo Steri
Arab-style parapets. 4 7 9 2 5
Grafitti on the walls
Oratorio di San Lorenzo
3 serves as a poignant
reminder that this was
With a white stucco interior by the sculptor
Giacomo Serpotta, the 16th-century oratory housed the seat of the Inquisition
a Caravaggio painting, until it was stolen in 1969. in the 17th century.
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Palermo ❮❮ 13

Cappella
7 THE NORMANS
Palatina
Commissioned in 1129 IN SICILY
by Roger II, the chapel In 1061 Norman soldier
(left) in the Palazzo dei Roger de Hauteville took
Normanni harmoniously advantage of internal
com bines western and Arab conflict in order
Arab styles. The Arab to invade the island
ceiling is painted with with a small group of
animals and greenery. crusaders. He was the
first of five powerful
It also shows a Christ Norman kings who, over
Pantocrator, produced by the next century, turned
Byzantine masters using Sicily into a well-run and
gold and silver tesserae, wealthy monarchy. By
offering his blessing from 1266, they left behind
the cupola and the apse. an island endowed with
splendid buildings and
La Zisa
8 an exotic culture that
This castle, built in
blended western and
the 12th century by Arab Arab influences.
masons, is inspired by
Moorish architecture. Its
name comes from al-Azīz, NEED TO KNOW
meaning “splendid”.
Cathedral: MAP K5; Via
Vittorio Emanuele; open
7am–7pm Mon–Sat,
8am–1pm & 4–7pm
Sun & public hols; adm
€3 for the crypt, treasury,
royal tombs
Palazzo dei Normanni:
MAP J6; Piazza
Indipendenza; open
8am–5:40pm Mon–Sat,
8:15am–1pm Sun (royal
San Giovanni
9 apartments closed Tue–
degli Eremiti
Thu when parliament is in
Founded in 1132, and set session); adm €8.50 Fri–
amid lush gardens, San Mon & hols, €7 Tue–Thu
La Martorana
6 Giovanni (above) was the Cappella Palatina:
MAP J6; open 8:15am–
richest monastery in
Santa Maria dell’
Ammiraglio (below) is Sicily. Five red domes, 5pm Mon–Sat, 8:15am–
called La Martorana after typical of Arab style, 1pm Sun & hols; adm
12th-century nun Eloisa mark the exterior, while included in ticket for
Martorana, who used to the interior of the church Palazzo dei Normanni
decorate the church with has only remnants of its
mosaics (see p91). original decoration.
Palazzo
0
della Cuba
Constructed in 1180 for
William II of Sicily as his
personal recreation
pavilion, Palazzo della
Cuba was designed by the
Arab artists who were
still living in the city after
the Norman conquest.
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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily

Monreale


The cathedral at Monreale, high above the fertile Conca d’Oro
(Golden Shell), overlooks Palermo. King William II founded the
majestic cathedral and Benedictine monastery in 1174, and a
medieval village soon grew up around them.
Despite its rather austere exterior, inside the
cathedral has spectacular decoration, which
constitutes the most extensive and important
mosaic cycle of its kind in Sicily. The
entrance is in Piazza
Vittorio Emanuele.
Apse Exterior
1
In contrast to the
rest of the exterior, which
is relatively plain, the
triple apse (below) is
decorated with intricate
stonework that forms
interlacing arches of
limestone and lava.







Ceilings
Façade
2 4
The choir ceiling
The façade, with a
bronze door, is brack eted shows traces of Arab
by two asymmet ri cal influences with guilded
square towers and bears motifs and decorative
decorative stone work. patterns. The nave
The front porch is an ceiling was restored 0
KING WILLIAM II 18th-century addition. after a fire in 1811.
William II’s political rival
Interior
Walter of the Mill, the 3
Archbishop of Palermo, The interior (below) has granite columns
and his faction of clerics with Roman Corinthian capitals supporting around
and landowners had 6,500 sq m (70,000 sq ft) of brilliant mosaics.
become too powerful.
By building a cathedral
at Monreale (specifically
a Benedictine abbey
and thus independent
of the archbishop), King
William was able to
redistribute the balance
of power. The beautiful
cathedral, with dazzling
mosaic decoration, was
completed in 1189.

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Monreale ❮❮ 15

Side Apse
5
Mosaics
Above the thrones to
either side of the main
apse are portraits of
William II being crowned
by Christ himself, and
presenting the cathedral
to the Madonna, a
scene blessed by the
hand of God.
Nave Mosaics
8
These Old and
New Testament scenes
were educational panels
for the illiterate parish-
ioners of the time. They
include the Creation,
Noah’s Ark and the
Sacrifice of Isaac (above).
Apse Mosaic
9
of Christ
The enormous image of
the Christ Pantocrator
embraces his fol lowers
with curved arms and
outstretched hands from
on high.
North
0
Transept
Cloister
Floorplan of Monreale 7 Here visitors can walk
8 5 4 6 9 The calm cloister on spectacular Cosmati
1 (above) combines mosaics arranged in
Arab-styled arches, intricate patterns, such
5 intricately carved capitals as the four hares in
decorated with mosaic a circle. Head into
0 patterns, and a lovely the Capella Roano to
12th-century fountain in see some exquisite
the geometric garden. Baroque craftsmanship.
NEED TO KNOW 9am–1:30pm Sun &
MAP C2 • Piazza public hols. Adm €6
Guglielmo II 1, Monreale • Have a coffee or gelato
• 091 6406671 • AST at the Bar Baby O’ in
buses: from Palermo
3 2 7 Piazza Guglielmo before
(Piazza Indipendenza) or after your visit.
Mosaics of
6 to Monreale • The church is popular
Martyr Saints
Cathedral: 8:30am–
One of the martyr saints 12:45pm & 2:30–5:30pm for weddings – if one is
in progress when you
shown is St Thomas à daily. Adm €2.50 for south visit, go to the cloisters
Becket, canonized the transept, €2 for roof and gardens first and
year before the church Cloister: 091 6404403; return to the church after
was founded. It is his 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, the service has finished.
earliest known portrait.



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16 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Aeolian Islands

This chain of volcanic islands offers a small-town atmosphere,
flavourful cuisine, history and natural beauty. Each of the islands
has its own character: Lipari is bright white with pumice; the fertile
volcanic soil of Salina grows verdant grapevines and forests with
rock formations like mounds of whipped cream; on Vulcano cooled
molten lava has left cliffs like rows of elephants’ legs. Beaches are
powdery grey-white with pumice or black with powdered lava, and
the sea is clean, clear and full of marine life.














Pollara Beach,
1
Salina
The beach at Pollara
(above) has large peb­
bles as well as patches
of sand. The water is
great for snorkelling,
with sea urchins, octo­
Perciato di
Stromboli
puses and other sea life. 2 3
Pollara, Salina
A storied Aeolian
NEED TO KNOW This stone arch swoops volcano, Stromboli has
been active for over two
down from the cliff and
MAP F1 comes to rest in the sea, mil lennia, spewing
Museo Archeologico creating a natural rock sparks and red­hot rocks
Regionale Eoliano: Via bridge (below). Visitors into the air, although you
del Castello, Lipari; 090 can get to the breath­ can only see them at
9880174; 9am–6:30pm taking Perciato via land night. Excursions are
daily (to 1:30pm on or sea and then swim popular and available
public hols; winter by around the rocks. from the other islands.
appt only). Adm €6
• It is best to stick to
small, unassuming
trattorie for good food
at better prices.
• The island chain is
made up of fragile
volcanic stone, so watch
out for falling rocks
(caduta massi).



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Aeolian Islands ❮❮ 17

Museo Archeologico
4 OBSIDIAN AND
Regionale Eoliano
The museum features items PUMICE
from the islands’ Neolithic settle­ The volcanic by-products
ments, as well as impressive Greek obsidian and pumice
and Roman displays (left). have played vital roles
in Lipari’s commerce.
Sulphur Emissions, Vulcano
5 The heavy, dense,
glass-like black obsidian
Sulphur emis sions still seep from the main
crater on Vulcano, and all over the island the vapour was crafted into knives
and arrowheads in the
rises out of the craggy ground. The earth is a lurid Neolithic period and
yellow (below) and there are many fanghi (mudbaths). was highly valued and
widely traded. The
quarrying of white,
porous pumice was the
major industry at Lipari,
where the enormous
quarries ground the
rock for use in a variety
of industries worldwide.
Alicudi and
9
Filicudi
Tiny Alicudi (below) and
Filicudi are the furthest­
west and least­developed
islands of the archipelago.
They are perhaps the
prettiest of the islands,
with a sparse population,
few cars and white­
washed houses with
breezy terraces.
Panarea
6
The tiniest island
of the Aeolian archi­
pelago is also its most
exclusive. Panarea is
known for its coves, clear
water, rocky islets and
nightlife. It also has a
Bronze Age settlement.
Pumice Mines,
7
Lipari
Lipari’s biggest industry
used to be pumice
mining, until UNESCO
Marina Corta,
Malvasia delle
urged the government 8 0
to stop this industrial Lipari Lipari
exploitation. Pumice is Smaller craft dock here, This is the famed wine
still so plentiful you’ll under this castle rock. In of the islands. White
find pieces of it washing summer it bustles with grapes are cultivated,
up onto beaches, bob­ activity; in winter you will harvested late and left
bing in the water and see only the odd fisher­ to shrivel on cane mats
on sale in shops. man mending his nets. before fermentation.




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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Taormina

On Monte Tauro, with views of the rocky coastline, the blue-green
sea and breathtaking Mount Etna, Taormina was founded in 304 BC
as a colony of powerful Syracuse. The town endured a typical
Sicilian history, falling first to the Romans, then to the Arabs,
Normans and Spanish. During the 1800s Taormina became a stop
on the Grand Tour and has been host to foreign visitors ever since.
With its plethora of restaurants, hotels and shops, beaches and
gardens, it is Sicily’s most popular holiday destination.
Santuario
Teatro Antico
1 3
Madonna
With a spectacular
della Rocca view as a backdrop, the
Affording heavenly views, Greeks built the theatre
this 17th­century church in the 3rd century BC,
was built where a shep­ but what can be seen
herd shelt ering from today (right) was refur­
a storm claimed to see bished by the Romans
the Virgin Mary. in the 1st century AD.











Piazza Vittorio
Mazzarò
2 4
Emanuele
Below Taormina
Piazza del
are a few lovely beaches, The Palazzo Corvaja, 5
such as Mazzarò. Tiny is an architectural mix Duomo
Isola Bella nearby of Arab, Norman and The Baroque fountain
(above) is linked to the Catalan Gothic elements. in the piazza bears a
coast by a strip of sand. The Baroque Santa centaur, the symbol of
Caterina church is backed Taormina, here atypically
NEED TO KNOW by the ruins of a Roman female. The 13th­century
Odeon that is free to visit. Chiesa Madre is dedi­
MAP H3 cated to San Nicolò.
Teatro Antico: Via Teatro 0 4
Greco 12; 094 223220; Monte
Tauro
9am–7pm daily. Adm 7 VIA CIRC O N VALLAZIONE VIA TEATRO GRECO
€10 CORSO UM BERTO I 3
• After visiting the 9 R OMA V. BAGNOLI CROCE
Teatro Antico, stop at VIA 2
the Wunderbar Café 2 km
(Piazza IX Aprile 7)
for a drink and some SS 114
people-watching.
5 6 6 8 Taormina
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Taormina ❮❮ 19

Villa
8 FAMOUS VISITORS
Comunale
Gardens The key names that
With great views down have enjoyed Taormina’s
to Giardini Naxos (see beauty include: Greek
p109), these well-tended king Pyrrhus (318–272
gardens (left) have palm BC); Norman conqueror
and banana trees, birds Count Roger (see p42);
of paradise, exotic plants, German poet Johann
many whimsical buildings Wolfgang von Goethe
and a monument to (1749–1832); English
novelist D. H. Lawrence
Taormina’s sailors. (1885–1930); American
playwright Tennessee
Williams (1911–83);
English author Roald
Dahl (1916–90); and
Hollywood movie stars
Elizabeth Taylor and
Richard Burton.














Corso
0
Umberto I
Locals make their
passeggiata (nightly
Borgo
Piazza IX
6 9 stroll) on the Corso
Aprile
Medievale
(above), starting at Porta
This is a rather lovely The clock tower (below) Messina, crossing lively
square, where you are is the gateway to the piazzas with gelaterie,
spoilt for choice between medieval part of town. bars, shops and crowds
the pretty sea views and The Corso is narrower to end at Porta Catania.
people-watching at the here, and while the
many outdoor cafés. The shops are the usual
Wunderbar plays live mix of clothing and
music in the evenings. souvenirs, the shop
fronts have kept their
Castelmola
7 medieval character.
Walk
Take the Via Crucis
path to the summit of
Monte Tauro from Via
Circonvalla zione to enjoy
the spectacular views
and the ruins of the
medieval castle.

018-019_Top_10_Sicily.indd 19 01/12/2017 12:57

20 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Mount Etna

Mount Etna, Europe’s largest volcano, with many craters and a height
of 3,330 m (10,925 ft), remains one of the most active in the world.
To the Greeks, it was home to Hephaestus, god of fire; Arabs knew it
as Mongibello (Mountain of Mountains). Today, the Parco dell’Etna
encompasses the volcano, where farmers produce wine, honey and
fruit in the lava-rich soil. It offers breathtaking views, great hiking and,
in season, skiing, and the occasional eruption of red sparks and
lava. In 2013, Mount Etna became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Visitor Centre
3
Visitors can find
a trained guide at the
Rifugio Sapienza Etna
Sud (left). Walks start at
the top cable-car station;
they vary in length and
can sometimes include
a jeep transfer to see
the lava flows.
Circumetnea
1 Mount Etna
DRAMATIC Train
ERUPTIONS From Catania, this quirky, 0 5 6
In 1928, lava wiped out narrow-gauge private rail-
Mascali. The 1950s, 60s way passes Adrano (site of
and 70s endangered a Saracen bridge), Bronte Linguaglossa
Milo, Fornazzo, Zafferana (with several pistachio Maletto
Etnea and Sant’Alfio. An farms), Randazzo (to see Bronte
eruption in 1979 killed Lake Gurrida and lava 9 Milo Giarre
nine tourists. Between flows) and Linguaglossa 3 Zafferana Etnea
1991 and 1993, concrete
Pozzillo
blocks were dropped (site of an open-air Adrano Nicolosi Acireale
from helicopters to stop mural museum).
lava near Zafferana Hiking Paternò Aci Castello
Etnea. Between 1999 2 Catania
and 2002, ash covered Hikes on lower
Catania. Lava flows in slopes and towards the
2001 and 2002 destroyed crater are possible, 7 1
visitor centres and the safety permitting.
cable-car station at Tourist offices provide
Etna Sud. maps and guides.
















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Mount Etna ❮❮ 21


NEED TO KNOW Guides: north Etna
MAP G3 • www. (Linguaglossa), 095 77745
visitsicily.info/etna 02, www.guidetnanord.
Parco dell’Etna: 095 821 com; south Etna (Nicolosi)
111; www.parcoetna.ct.it 095 7914755, www.
Circumetnea Train: 095 541 etnaguide.eu
111; www.circumetnea.it • Follow the hiking and
Rifugio Sapienza Etna safety guidelines provided
Sud: 095 915321; www.
Vegetation
4 rifugiosapienza.com by the park service and
join a guided tour. It is not
Etna is home to a
variety of trees, from oak AST Bus: from Catania to advisable to go without a
Rifugio Sapienza Etna Sud;
and chestnut in lower 095 7774502; leaves guide. Bring warm clothing,
areas to pine and birch Catania 8:15am daily, sturdy shoes and glasses
higher up. Wild flowers, leaves Rifugio Sapienza to protect your eyes from
including violets (above), Etna Sud 4:30pm daily blowing grit.
flourish in the soil.
Slopes to the
Summit
Slopes to the
5 7 9
Craters
West and South
East and North
These slopes are home Small volcanic cones and The summit height is
to the Betula aetnensis cultivated crops, notably constantly in flux due
birch, unique to Mount pistachio, cover the to the mounting volcanic
Etna, and, in Sant’Alfio, western slopes. Recent debris ejected during
the Castagno dei Cento lava flows can be seen explosions and the
Cavalli (Chestnut of 100 on the south slopes. frequent landslides.
Horses), one of the
oldest and largest trees
in the world. Lava flows
Linguaglossa have formed caves and
Maletto
grottoes, used as shelters
Bronte and ice stores.
Milo
Giarre
Valle del Bove
Zafferana Etnea 6
Adrano Nicolosi Pozzillo This crater was
Acireale created by a collapse
Paternò Aci Castello of the volcano wall. It Fauna Lava Flows
Catania covers 7 km by 5 km 8 0
(4.5 miles by 3 miles) Weasels, wildcats, Molten lava
and has walls more than foxes and birds such as (above) is more than
1,000 m (3,000 ft) high. the peregrine falcon 500° C (930° F). In some
In 1991 a vent opened, survive in wooded areas. places, the constant flow,
releasing lava into the At the top, the only fauna 2 m (6.5 ft) underfoot,
valley for two years. to be found are ladybirds. causes the snow to melt.
Dramatic slopes of Mount Etna










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24 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Syracuse

Founded in 733 BC by Corinthian settlers, Syracusae became one VIALE RIZZO VIALE TERACATI VIA C. REIMANN
of the first Greek colonies on the island. It attained wealth and VIALE TYCHE
power, commissioned important buildings and works of art, and AUGUSTO VIALE TEÓCRITO
founded sub-colonies, extending its territory through warfare to NEAPOLIS TESTAFERRATA
V. GIUSEPPE
become the strongest city in the Mediterranean. The ancient city VIALE PAOLO ORSI CORSO GELONE VITTORIA V. LU I GI C AD O RNA
PIAZZA
was several times the size of Syracuse today and was divided into
five zones: Epipolae, Akradina, Neapolis, Tyche REPUBBLICA
PIAZZA
and the original settlement of Ortygia.










Castello Maniace
1
Situated at the tip of Ortygia, Castello Maniace
(above) is a fortress commissioned by Frederick II.
Its 13th­century interiors are almost perfectly intact.
Catacombs of
Altar of
2 3 Latomia del
San Giovanni
Hieron II
Paradiso
Hieron II built this vast Throughout these vast 4
altar, the largest in limestone catacombs Stone from this latomia
Magna Graecia, around are burial chambers (quarry) was used for the
225 BC and dedicated of various sizes to construction of Syrac use.
it to Zeus Eleutherios, accommodate children, Within the quarry is the
the god of freedom. adults or families. Orecchio di Dioniso (the
Ear of Dionysius) cavern
(below), which was prob­
NEED TO KNOW Teocrito 66; 093 1464511; ably named because it
MAP H5 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 9am– has a large opening that
1pm Sun & hols. Adm €8
Parco Archeologico (Altar Castello Eurialo: 8 km (5 resembles a human ear.
of Hieron II, Greek Theatre miles) from Syracuse; 093
and Roman Ampitheatre): 1711773; 2:30pm– 7:30pm
Viale Augusto; 093 166206; Mon, 8:30am– 1:45pm
summer: 9am–7:30pm daily Tue–Sun. Adm €4
(to 4:30pm during theatre
season). Adm €10 • The cafés on Ortygia
Catacombs of San come alive at sundown.
Giovanni: Piazza S Enjoy the cool sea breeze
Giovanni; 093 164694; and relaxed atmosphere.
from 9:30am daily (closing • Combined tickets
times vary, closed for lunch). (€13.50) are available for
Adm €8 the Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi and
Regionale Paolo Orsi: Viale Parco Archeologico.
Previous pages Lipari, Aeolian Islands
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Syracuse ❮❮ 25


5 4 0 8 km
ARCHIMEDES
3
VIALE RIZZO VIALE TERACATI 7 The renowned inventor,
VIA C. REIMANN
mathematician and
VIALE TYCHE engineer Archimedes
AUGUSTO VIALE TEÓCRITO
2 (287–212 BC) was born
6 V. GIUSEPPE in Syracuse. Among his
NEAPOLIS TESTAFERRATA important discoveries is
VIALE PAOLO ORSI CORSO GELONE VITTORIA V. LU I GI C AD O RNA 9 1 km the Archimedes Principle,
PIAZZA
PIAZZA the study of an object’s
REPUBBLICA displacement of its own
3 km 1 8 2 km weight in water. He put
Syracuse
his other inventions,
such as catapults and
pulleys, to use in war
when he was military
advisor to King Hieron II.








Greek Theatre
Castello
Temple of
5 8 0
Euríalo
Minerva
Begun in the 6th
century BC, the Greek The city’s 18th­century The castle is the most
Theatre (above) became Baroque cathedral important extant Greek
the largest in Sicily. (see p47) incorporates military installa tion in
Many of Aeschylus’s an ancient temple of Sicily. It was built by
tragedies were first Minerva, which had been Dionysus the Younger in
staged here, including built over the site of a the 5th century BC, and
Prometheus Bound. monu ment to Athena. improved by Hieron II.
Roman
6
Amphitheatre
This Roman arena was
built during the 3rd cen­
tury AD and is one of the
largest of its kind, built
by local stonemasons.
Museo
7
Archeologico
Regionale
Paolo Orsi
Archaeologist Paolo Orsi
Temple of Apollo
gave his name to this 9
museum specializing Dating back to the 6th century BC, this is the
in artifacts he found in oldest Doric temple still standing in western Europe
Syracuse (see pp26–7). (above). The base has an inscription to the god Apollo.


024-025_Top_10_Sicily.indd 25 01/12/2017 12:57

26 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Museo Archeologico Highlights

















Archaeological finds from the necropolis of Pantalica
Villa Landolina Gardens
Material from Pantalica
1 4
Pantalica, near Palazzolo
These gardens sit on a site
Acreide, was inhabited by the that is rich in finds from locations
pre-Greek Sicels, who produced including an ancient Greek
elegant red-glazed pottery. necropolis, parts of Hellenistic
streets and Christian catacombs.
Bronze Age Material
2 Greek Kouros, Lentini
from Castelluccio
This 6th-century-BC kouros
Materials from the Castelluccio site, 5
between Noto and Palazzolo Acreide, (statue of a muscular youth) is one
such as bowls, cups and jugs, show of the best examples of ancient
trade links between early Sicilians Greek sculpture.
and eastern Mediterranean cultures. Gela Vase Collection
Mother Goddess
3 6
A lekythoi (tall one-handed
vase) painted with Herakles and
From the Temple of Megara
Hyblaea, this object made of the Hydra is the most impressive.
terracotta represents the mother
Venus Anadyomene
goddess nursing twins. Known 7
in Italian as Madre Dea, she is A Roman copy of a Greek
remarkable for the sense of solidity 2nd-century-BC origi nal. From her
blended with tenderness. pose to the high polish of
the marble, she is an
Museum Floorplan image of pure sensuality.
Ephebus at
9 5 8
3 Adrano
7 This small athletic
0 bronze figure of
8 an ephebus
1 or adolescent
2 was found near
6 Adrano, and dates
4 from around 460 BC.
Key to floorplan
Ground floor Bronze statue of
First floor Ephebus
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Syracuse ❮❮ 27


THE HISTORY OF ANCIENT SYRACUSE

Under the tyrant Gelon, Syracuse formed a
mighty alliance with other Greeks at Akragas
(Agrigento) and Gela to defeat the Carthaginians
at Himera in 480 BC. Hieron I (478–466 BC)
and Dionysius (405–367 BC) made Syracuse
the most powerful city on the island and in the
Mediterranean. In 413 BC Athens sent a fleet in
the “Great Expedi tion” to put down the threat,
and with help from Sparta, the Athenians
were defeated. Despite their warlord image,
Syracuse’s rulers were patrons of the arts –
Hieron II (265–215 BC) expanded the great
theatre and Aeschylus, Pindar, Plutarch and
Plato were present at court. After Hieron II’s 5th-century bust of
death, however, Syracuse sided not with Rome a woman made in
but with Carthage in the Second Punic War. colourful terracotta.
After a siege lasting two years, Syracuse fell
to Rome in 212 BC and began a slow decline. TOP 10
COLONIES OF
ANCIENT SYRACUSE
1 Akrai (Palazzolo
Acreide)
2 Kasmenai (Casmene)
3 Kamarina (Camarina)
4 Adronan (Adrano)
5 Thermae (Termini
Imerese)
6 Cephaloedium (Cefalù)
7 Katane (Catania)
8 Tauromenium
(Taormina)
Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi has
many remnants of the mighty colony of Syracuse, 9 Zancle (Messina)
including sculpture and everyday objects. 10 Selinus (Selinunte)
Temples of Athena
9
and Apollo
Fragments from two Doric tem ples
on Ortygia are on show, such as
polychrome parts of a Gorgon.
Wooden Statuettes of
0
Demeter and Kore
These rare examples of wooden
statuary were found at a sanctu ary
between Gela and Agrigento. They
date from the late 7th century BC
and survived because they were
covered in the mineral-rich mud
of a local spring. Terracotta relief showing a Gorgon







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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Noto

After the massive earthquake that destroyed almost all of eastern
Sicily in 1693, major reconstruction resulted in cities and villages
being designed in the Baroque style, then at the height of its
popularity. Noto is one of the best examples of the form. Designed
specifically to include vistas of the countryside, the urban plan was
also sensitive to the needs of the citizens. The soft, locally quarried
stone adapted well to the carved decorations,
but, unfortunately, the elements have taken
their toll on it and
renovations have
been necessary.





















Cattedrale di San Nicolò
1
Noto’s splendid Baroque cathedral (above)
sits on top of Labisi’s grand staircase. San Nicolò
was built in stages throughout the 18th century,
with input from architects Gagliardi and Sinatra.
Porta Reale
2
The Royal Gate
(left) was erected in 1838
to greet King Ferdinand II.
It offers a grand entrance
Chiesa di
to Noto’s main street, 4
Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Montevergini
An elegantly simple
Chiesa di San
3 church, with a concave
Francesco
façade, marks the end
The18th-century church of Via Nicolaci. Nearby is
of San Francesco has a Palazzo Nicolaci, with its
Baroque portal, stucco decorated bal conies
interior and a wooden (above) supported by
statue of the Virgin Mary. carved grotesques.

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Noto ❮❮ 29

San Carlo al
8 NEED TO KNOW
Corso
Built in 1730, the MAP G5
church has various Cattedrale di San Nicolò:
ceiling paintings 9am–1pm &
(left) and a graceful 3–8pm daily
concave façade. San Carlo al Corso:
Wonderfully elegant Corso Vittorio Emanuele;
9am–noon & 3–7pm
columns on the façade daily. Adm (bell
progress from Doric tower only)
to Ionic and finally • Sample Sicilian
Chiesa di San
5 Corinthian. A vertiginous pastries and gelati at
Domenico
climb to the top of the
Gagliardi’s masterpiece campanile (bell tower) Caffè Sicilia, located on
the Corso next to San
(1737) has an exuberant, provides beautiful views Carlo (see p80).
convex façade, filled over the town.
with niches and
columns creating
dramatic contrasts
of light and shade.








Piazza Municipio, Palazzo Ducezio
9
The lovely town square is home to the Palazzo
Ducezio, now the town hall (above), designed by
Sinatra in 1742. A loggia runs along the façade.
Old Market,
Palazzi, Via
6 0 BAROQUE
Via Rocco Pirri
Cavour
Via Cavour is lined with Noto’s lively market was ARCHITECTURE
palazzi of noble families. at one time held in this The Baroque style grew
The Palazzo Trigona is a courtyard, but sadly out of the Renaissance,
stately Baroque design of butchers and bakers which used Classical
1781 with characteris- have now been replaced forms and primary
tically curved balconies by boutiques. However, shapes to create balance
and a frescoed interior. there is a market with and proportion. Baroque
On the corner to the left plenty of fresh local architects applied these
lies Palazzo Battaglia, produce in town every forms to curved and
ovoid shapes to achieve
which is a late Baroque Monday across from the movement and drama.
work by Gagliardi. church of San Domenico. Typical features include
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
7 an ellip tical floorplan,
a façade that projects
& Santissimo Salvatore
outward or undulates,
On opposite sides of the street are the convent of the use of light and
Santa Chiara and the monastery of Santissimo shade, concave forms,
Salvatore. Santa Chiara’s oval interior houses a as well as plenty of
16th-century Madonna and Child sculpted by Sicilian exuberant decoration.
Antonello Gagini.

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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Villa Romana del Casale

As the hunting lodge of an important Roman official (perhaps
Maximianus, Diocletian’s co-emperor), the villa at Piazza Armerina
was decorated with what is now the best preserved and most
extensive set of Roman mosaics in the world. The lavish villa was
constructed over a period of more than 50 years from the late 3rd
century to the early 4th century AD, and its airy rooms, peristyles,
luxurious thermal baths and gardens with pools and
fountains were laid out on four natural terraces.

Narthex of the Thermae
2
The long narthex in the thermae
(gym) is decorated with a circus scene.
Horse-drawn chariots careen around
a track, in the centre of which is an
image of the obelisk of Constantinus II.
Villa Romana del Casale
9
8
6 7
3
2
4
Arion and
1 5 1
Naiads
The floor of this living 0
room (above), which had
marble-faced walls, is
decorated with a lively
scene of the bejewelled
Arion playing a lyre. She
is surrounded by naiads.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP F4 • Contrada
Casale, 6 km (3.5 miles)
from Piazza Armerina
• 093 5680036 • www.
villaromanadelcasale.it
Open 9am–6pm daily
Ten Girls
Private
Adm €10 3 4
in Bikinis
Apartments
• It can get hot inside The floors of the family’s Perhaps the most fam-
as most of the villa is private apartments ous mosaic in the villa is
housed in a wood and (above) are decorated the bikini-clad athletes.
plexiglass structure. with the scenes of a They appear to have just
• In the summer, a children’s hunt. Panels finished a competition:
courtesy mini bus runs throughout depict foliage, the winner has been
from Piazza Armerina. flowers and baskets of awarded a flower crown
fruit and vegetables. and a palm sceptre.


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Villa Romana del Casale ❮❮ 31

Great Hunting
Triclinium
7 0
Scene
The triclinium,
These mosaics show two used for banqueting,
countries (personified) opens on one side onto a
surrounded by sea. The lovely garden surrounded
array of animals on land by an elliptical portico.
and in the sea includes The mosaics are of a
lions, elephants, tigers grand scale, in keeping
and a leopard attacking with their subject, the
a gazelle (left). Ten Labours of Hercules.























Public Room off the Peristyle
Xystus
5 8
The reception room is decorated with a
On the northern
side of the xystus, the hunting scene (above) – one of the earliest mosaics
elliptical garden off the in the villa. Hunters and dogs chase beasts, spear a
triclinium, are three wild boar and carry it away on their shoulders.
rooms decorated with
Changing
scenes of the vendemmia 9
(grape harvest). Room for MOSAICS
the Thermae The almost perfectly
Aqueduct
6 Here the emperor’s preserved mosaic floors
of the Villa Romana are
Near the entrance
family is shown: his
to the villa are remains mother, daughter and the result of the house
of the aqueduct (below), son, accompanied by being buried under a
which provided water their slaves, are carrying mudslide in the 12th
for the baths, fountains, equipment they will need century. The mosaic
gardens and household. for the baths and gym. artist (possibly from
North Africa) was
highly skilled, forming
large-scale images from
millions of polychrome
tiles (tesserae) to cover
3,500 sq m (37,670 sq ft)
of floor space.
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32 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Agrigento and the
Valle dei Templi


Aligned with Syracuse, Greek Akragas was one of the most
important towns in Sicily during the Greek period. It con structed
temples to its gods, and was known for breeding horses, with
which it consistently won the Olympic Games. After being besieged
by the Carthaginians in 406 BC, the town was taken by the Romans
in 261 BC, renamed Agrigentum, and remained in Roman control
until the fall of the Empire. The ruins of the ancient Greek city are
now known as the Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples).

Centro Storico
2
Pass through the
historic centre to get to
the Duomo. The route
takes visitors from Via
Atenea via alley ways and
passes artisans’ work­
shops and local women
pausing from their daily AGRIGENTO
chores to chat.
Temple of Herakles
San Nicola
1 3
Amid olive and almond trees lie the ruins of
The front of the
this hexastyle temple (above) dating from around church has an interesting Museo Archeologico
500 BC. Cross over the ancient 13th­century portal that Regionale
di Agrigento
street and walk over the stones reuses materials from a
to see the cella wall and Doric Roman ruin, and a nicely
columns – beautiful at sunset. arched interior.
Temple of Castor
4
and Pollux
Considered a symbol of Sicily and
also known as the Temple of the
Dioscuri, this temple (below)
features four lone columns and
entablature that were put
together from pieces of other
temples in the 19th century.
















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Agrigento and the Valle dei Templi ❮❮ 33



VALLE DEI
TEMPLI GUIDE
The site is divided into
three sections, all near
a central car park with
ticket booth and tourist
information office. The
Temple of Olympian
Zeus and the Sanctuary
of the Chthonic Deities
are in an area just to the
Greek Roads,
Temple of
5 7 west of the car park. The
entrance to the temples
Gates and
Olympian Zeus
All that remains of this Walls along the Via Sacra (Hera,
Herakles and Concordia)
temple is a copy of one of Walking from temple to is across the street. Up
its giant statues (above). temple through the val- the Via dei Templi you
The original is in the ley, visitors can see what will find the Hellenistic/
Archaeological Museum. is left of the Greek city: Roman Quarter and the
rutted roads and city Museo Archeologico
Agrigento and the walls bearing the marks Regionale di Agrigento
Valle dei Templi from later ages, when (see pp34–5).
2 8 9 gaps were carved into
them for new Byzantine
Temple of
AGRIGENTO tombs and gates. 0
Concordia
Abbazia di
8 The hexastyle Temple
Santo Spirito
3 The resident Cistercian of Concordia (below) has
remained intact because
7 Museo Archeologico nuns at this 13th-century it was converted for use
Regionale
4 di Agrigento abbey still practise the as a church. It dates
old tradition of pastry- from 430 BC.
making, once the exclu-
sive work of the convents.
5 1 0 6 Hellenistic/
Temple
Roman
6 9
of Hera
Quarter
Patches of red at this Among knee-high ruins
temple to the queen of are door jambs in walls,
the gods (c 450 BC) are basins, columns, mills,
fire damage, perhaps steps, remains of the
from the Cartha ginian drainage system and
siege of 406 BC. mosaic flooring.
NEED TO KNOW combined ticket €13.50;
MAP D4 www.parcodei templi.net
Valle dei Templi: 092 2621 San Nicola: Piazza Duomo;
611; 8:30am–7pm daily (to open for weddings only
10pm in summer, to
midnight Sun & public • Avoid the crowded
hols). Adm €10 restaurants at the temple
Museo Archeologico site and have a meal in
Regionale di Agrigento: town (see p123).
Contrada S Nicola 12; 092 • The temples are spec-
2401565; 9am– 7:30pm
Tue–Sat, 9am– 1:30pm tacular at night, when the
Mon, Sun & hols. Adm €8; buildings are floodlit.
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34 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Museo Archeologico Highlights


Archaeological Museum Floorplan the roof of temples, just above the
cornice, to funnel rainwater to the
Key to floorplan
Basement ground. Note that they were painted
Ground floor 8 9 in bright colours, as were all of the
elements of the temple above the
6 level of the column capitals.
4 Model of the Temple
3
of Olympian Zeus
3 This scale reconstruction of the
0 largest known Doric temple in the
world, the Temple of Olympian Zeus
(see p33), allows visitors to appreciate
the once enormous size of the build­
ing. Take note of the position of the
8­m­ (26­ft­) tall telamoni (giant stone
figures) in relation to the massive
5 7 2 1 columns. More than twice as tall
as these giant figures, the temple’s
Head of a Bull
1 imposing columns measured 16.5 m
Materials excavated from both
(54 ft) in height and had a diameter
Agrigento and Gela are found in the of 4 m (13 ft) at their base.
first two galleries. They include
Bronze Age pots painted with red
geometric designs, locally produced
pottery, as well as Greek finds. One
of the most interesting is the little
head of a bull, hand­moulded in
pinched terracotta.
Lion-Head Waterspouts
2
Recovered from various
temples at Agrigento (including the
temples of Herakles and Demeter),
these spouts, shaped like lions’ Marmorean sarcophagus
heads, were originally placed along
Sarcophagus of a Child
4
This sarcophagus, dating from
the 2nd century BC, was only dis­
covered in the 1970s. The panels,
carved in high relief, vividly illustrate
scenes from the child’s life. There is
a detailed scene of the sick room,
showing the father pulling his beard
in mourning.
Roman Quarter Mosaics
5
These particularly fine Roman
mosaics from the 2nd century AD
are made of tiny tesserae (tiles). They
served as centrepieces to the deco­
rative mosaic flooring of houses in
Display of carved waterspouts the residential sector of the city.




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Agrigento and the Valle dei Templi ❮❮ 35

















The collection of vases at the Archaeological Museum, Agrigento
Vase Collection
6 The main scene shows Achilles
The vase collection includes
killing an Amazon queen (and falling
outstanding examples of Attic black- in love with her as he does so).
figure and red-figure vases as well
Telamone and
as Hellenistic vases. The krater 0
(a tall vase with a sturdy base and Telamone Heads
two handles), with a rare white Thirty-eight telamoni once supported
background, shows the figures the entablature of the Temple of
of Perseus and Andromeda. Olympian Zeus. A complete figure
was reconstructed in the 1800s from
Ephebus of Agrigento
7 various parts found on the site. Each
of these figures was composed
Described as an ephebus
(a youth taking part in a religious of several stones, covered with a
rite), this beautifully carved marble smooth stucco overlay, and probably
figure illustrates the transition from colour as well. Scholars still debate
the static archaic style to the severe the exact form and position of the
style. Note the fine modelling of the telamoni, but it may be that they
boy’s musculature and the movement stood with their feet splayed.
of the figure, which dramatically
contrasts to the almost Egyptian- Giant telamone figure
like stilted and stiff figures of the
former archaic style.
Greek and Roman
8
Helmets
Discovered in Eraclea Minoa, the
fascinating Greek battle hel mets
are designed with ear holes, while
the Roman ones have a topknot
and finely chased rims.
Red-figure Krater
9
The “Battle of the Amazons”
(c 460 BC) design on this striking
krater vase has been attributed to
the Niobid painter. The artist skilfully
created space on the curved surface
by illustrating fallen bodies, bows
and arrows, and other battlefield
parapher nalia in rough perspective.




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36 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Selinunte

The ruins of ancient Selinunte (Selinus), once a large settlement
at the westernmost reaches of Magna Graecia, loom high on a
promontory above the sparkling Mediterranean. Now one of the
most important archaeological sites in Europe, it boasts one of the
largest Greek temples in the world. Selinunte was founded around
608 BC and enjoyed centuries of prosperity before being reduced
to rubble by the Carthaginians during the First Punic War.





















Acropolis
East Group of Temples
1 4 EAST
The promontory
Here lie the ruins of three temples (above)
on which decorative fragments are identifiable. was levelled by the first GROUP
Temple E is an example of balanced Doric order. settlers, allowing them
to build sacred buildings; ACROPOLIS
Temples A
Temple G
2 3 commercial and residen­ MARINELLA
and O
tial structures followed.
The only octastyle
temple at Selinunte (all Temple A and Temple O,
Temple C
others are hexastyle), of which only the bases 5
Temple G (below) is one remain, are identical. Built on a rise, this
of the four largest Greek They were built in Doric was the most important
temples in the world. Its style around 480 BC, temple on the site. It
columns are more than which makes them the was decorated with
16 m (52 ft) high. It was most recent ruins on polychrome stone and
left unfinished in 480 BC. the Selinunte site. terracotta elements.
Fortified
6
Walls of
the Acropolis
The original walls, built
of large blocks of stone,
were reinforced after
the city was sacked by
Carthage in 409 BC, and
a second circle built
around 305 BC.
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Selinunte ❮❮ 37

Metopes
8 THE ORIENTATION
The metopes (left)
at Selinunte, carved OF SELINUNTE
panels showing scenes Selinunte was built
from Greek myth ology, on hilltops around the
are now in the Museo mouths of the Cotone
Archeologico Regionale and Selinon (now the
Antonio Salinas (see p92). Modione) rivers. From
The metopes from the main car park, with
temples E and F are the ticket booth, a path
outstanding exam ples leads to the East Group
of Classical style. of Temples. The Acropolis
is located across the
valley (the location of
the old harbour) and is
acces sible on foot or by
car; the site’s second car
park is located at its
base. The sanctu ary of
Malophorus, reached by
walking west from the
Acropolis, cannot be
accessed by private cars.
North Gate
9
Of great
importance for the
defence of Selinunte, the
7-m- (23-ft-) high North
Gate was protected by a
sophisticated fortification
composed of three
Selinunte 9 1 2 bastions and a double
EAST line of walls. After
GROUP sustaining damage in
7 409 BC, the earlier ring
ACROPOLIS
of walls was reinforced.
0
400 MARINELLA Sanctuary of
Malophorus
metres 0
5 6 3 4
This funerary sanctuary
Commercial Area
7 (left) is dedicated to
and Stoa
Malophorus, who
Behind Temple D you can see the was the pomegranate-
remains of shops, each with two bearing goddess. The
rooms, a courtyard and stairs that elegant piece was in use
led to the shop keepers’ apartments from the 7th to the 3rd
on the upper floors. centuries BC.
NEED TO KNOW ensure that they have • The tourist office at
MAP B4 • Marinella di purchased tickets by 4pm) Castelvetrano organizes
Selinunte, SS 115 south Adm €6 site tours in golf carts.
of Castelvetrano • 092 • Have a picnic dinner
446277 • There is a stunning view amid the ruins while
Open 9am–6pm (to 4pm of the ruins from the sea enjoying dance or music.
in winter); visitors should off Marinella beach. Details at the ticket booth.





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38 ❯❯ Top 10 Sicily Highlights

Features of a Doric Temple


Proportion
1
Greek architecture followed
rules of proportion to ensure the
beauty and harmony of the finished
structure. Doric temples were built
with a length­to­width ratio of 3:1
or 2:1. Column height was related
proportionally to base diameter,
with columns gradually becoming
more slender over the centuries.
5th-century BC altar at Temple A
Columns
2 Altar
Doric columns have a simple
capital and a fluted shaft without a 5
A carved block of stone used
base. The shaft is larger in diameter for animal sacrifices was placed
at the bottom than at the top. outside temples at the eastern end.
Frieze
6
This is the decorative feature
of the entablature. It is made up of
alternating triglyphs – grooved blocks
ending in little teeth (guttae) – which
support the structure above and
metopes (broad panels usually
carved with figurative scenes).
Roof
7
Roofs were made of wooden
beams and terracotta tiles. They
frequently had polychrome decora­
tions such as gargoyles cast into the
shapes of animals’ heads, which
functioned as waterspouts.
Fluted Doric columns Colour
Colonnade
3 8
The architectural elements
and sculpted pieces, particularly
When columns are arranged
around the outer edge of a temple’s the parts of the entablature and the
crepidoma (base), they form a col­ pediment, were always painted in
onnade. “Peripteral” refers to a bright colours (polychrome) – most
single colonnade and “dipteral” typically in red, blue, white or yellow.
to a double colonnade. Cella
Pediments
4 9
Each temple housed a
The triangular gables
sanctuary (cella), usually an enclosed
above the entablature on a room in the centre of the temple.
temple’s short sides are Here the sacred image or statue
the pediments, usually of a god or goddess was kept.
decorated with
Entablature
figures or reliefs. 0
The entablature
Entablature rests above the capitals
and column and below the pediment.
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Selinunte ❮❮ 39


THE RISE AND FALL OF SELINUS

Selinus, which was named after the abundant TOP 10
wild celery (selinon) which still grows in FINDS FROM
the area, enjoyed prosperity and power SELINUNTE
with a sprawling urban complex of 80,000 1 Punishment of Acteon
inhabitants, impressive temple compounds, (470 BC)
their own mint and extensive agricultural 2 Efebo (bronze statue,
holdings. Located on the edge of Greek 470 BC)
territory, Selinus was forced to fight border 3 Zeus and Hera (470 BC)
wars with Segesta and was in constant 4 Perseus and the
danger from attack by their mighty Gorgon (c 560–550 BC)
Carthaginian allies. Although it gradually
accepted some Cartha ginian influence and 5 Statue of a Kore (6th
century BC)
even declared itself neutral in the Battle of
Himera (480 BC) between the warring 6 Tumminìa Wheat
Carthaginians and Syracusan Greeks, it 7 Europa and the Bull
preferred to remain a Greek ally. Selinus lost (6th century BC)
that right in 409 BC, when Hannibal and his 8 Corinthian Oinochoe
forces sacked the town, forcing all inhabitants (6th century BC)
to abandon the residential sector. From then 9 Attic Lekane (6th
until its demise, Selinus was restricted to century BC)
the refortified Acropolis and remained 10 Bronze Zeus (6th
under Punic control. Selinus was finally century BC)
abandoned in 250 BC, when Carthage,
fighting Rome during the First Punic War,
moved all residents to its stronghold at
Lilybaeum (modern-day Marsala). A small
com munity was located at Selinus during
the Christian era, but it too was eventually
abandoned and all knowledge of the town,
even its name, was lost until archaeologists
uncovered it in the 19th century.

Gelon’s triumphal entry into Syracuse
is shown in this painting by Giuseppe Carta
(1853). Gelon, king of Syracuse, saw off the Metope depicting Perseus
Carthaginians at the Battle of Himera (480 BC). beheading Medusa























038-039_Top_10_Sicily.indd 39 01/12/2017 12:57

The Top 10 of

Everything






Moments in History 42
Ancient Sites 44
Places of Worship 46
Christ Pantocrator, Castles 48
Monreale Cathedral













































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Museums 50 Performing Arts Venues 70
Vestiges of Invading Powers 52 Nights Out 72
Customs and Traditions 54 Wine and Wine Producers 74
Artists, Writers and Composers 56 Sicilian Dishes 76
Villages 58 Restaurants 78
Beaches 60 Pasticcerie and Gelaterie 80
Outdoor Activities 64 Specialist Shops and Areas 82
Children’s Attractions 66 Sicily For Free 84
Puppet Traditions 68 Feasts and Processions 86
















































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42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History


Arab Invasion
Ducetius
1 4
Ducetius unified his people,
After Byzantine rule for three
the Sicels of eastern Sicily, against centuries, the North African Moors
the Greeks in 452 BC. invaded in AD 827 at Mazara
He succeeded in del Vallo. They captured
forti fying positions Palermo, made it their
and redistributing capital and turned it
land until suffering into the cosmopolitan
final defeat at the city it remains today.
hands of Syracuse. They improved rural
infrastructure and
Supremacy
2 ced new methods of
irrigation, and introdu­
of Syracuse
The Syracusan tyrants agriculture and fishing.
Hieron I, Gelon and Silver coin depicting
Count Roger
Dionysus I assured the winged victory 5
ascendancy of Greek Norman crusader
Sicily, with Syracuse at the helm. Roger de Hauteville (also known as
The Greek colonies fought among Count Roger or Roger I) took Sicily
themselves, but united when it was between 1061 and 1091. He was the
necessary, including to defeat the first of a century of Norman rulers
Carthaginians at Himera in 480 BC. who slowly changed Sicily from an
eastern to a western society, albeit
Roman Rule
3 one with exotic flair (see p13).
Rome’s successful siege of
The Sicilian Vespers
Syracuse in 212 BC marked the end 6
of Greek power on the island. After After decades of rule by the
centuries of warfare, Roman rule French Angevins, in 1282 an uprising
brought peace. Praetors were sent began in Palermo. Having successfully
to Sicily to govern, including Verres, instigated revolt and done away with
later prosecuted by Cicero for his the unpopular foreign sovereign,
misdeeds. Verres was the first in Sicilians invited Peter of Aragón
a long line of foreign plunderers. to become their king.














Norman fleet of Roger de Hauteville in the 11th century




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Moments in History ❮❮ 43

Unification
7 TOP 10 MYTHOLOGICAL FIGURES
Centuries of misrule, foreign
domination and the feudal system 1 Aeneas
meant wealth, power and land fell Aeneas fled Troy, found refuge on
into the hands of the few. Popular Sicily, and founded Erice and Segesta.
revolts began in 1820, reached a 2 Demeter
head in 1848, and in May 1860 the Goddess of agriculture, the harvest
Italian socialist Garibaldi, with the aid and fertility. Her cult was based at Enna.
of Sicilian Redshirts, took the island 3 Persephone
and convinced the peasant class to Demeter’s daughter was taken by Hades
vote for Italian Unification. into the underworld at Lake Pergusa.
4 Hephaestus (Vulcan)
The god of fire lived on Mount Etna,
forging his father Zeus’s lightning bolts
with the flames of the volcano.
5 Odysseus (Ulysses)
The Greek military leader wandered
the Mediterranean for 10 years trying
to get home. Many of his adventures
took place on Sicily.
6 Polyphemus
The giant one-eyed Cyclops shepherd
and canni bal held Odysseus hostage
in his Mount Etna cave.
7 Aeolios
The King of the Winds and master of
Garibaldi leads the expedition navigation lived on the Aeolian Islands.
8 Arethusa
Emigration
8 Chased by the river god Alpheus,
After Unification, however,
Arethusa threw herself into the Ionian
Sicily found itself highly taxed and Sea and sprung up at Syracuse,
ignored as an outpost of a “foreign” transformed into a fountain.
government. Peasant farmers were 9 Acis
unable to feed their families and Murdered by the jealous Polyphemus,
there was no sign of improvement. Acis was reincarnated as a river and
Such poverty was behind the mass gave his name to nine towns on the
emigration to the Americas in the Ionian coast.
late 1800s and early 1900s. 10 Scylla and Charybdis
These hideous sea monsters dwelled
Earthquakes
9 on either side of the Straits of Messina,
terrorizing passing sailors.
In 1908 an earthquake killed
over 70,000 people and levelled more
than 90 per cent of Messina. Another
damaging quake, in 1968, left scores
of villages destroyed in the Belice
valley. Thousands were housed in
shelters for 15 years, waiting for the
government to resolve the problem.
Mafia Crackdown
0
The conviction of 350 mafiosi
during the 1980s led to the murder
of the judges Giovanni Falcone and
Paolo Borsellino in 1992. “Boss of
Bosses” Salvatore “Totò” Riina was Relief of deities and their horses
con victed of arranging the murders.




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44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Ancient Sites


Syracuse
1
The Greeks founded a colony
here in 733 BC and began a project
of development and expansion that
led to Syracuse becoming the most
powerful city in the Mediterranean.
Remains of defensive structures and
sacred, social and residential areas
are visible today. A comprehensive
archaeology museum makes sense
of the varied ruins (see pp24–7).
Remains of a Greek temple, Selinunte
Solunto
2 Selinunte
This small village was under
The archaeological park here
Carthaginian control, along with 4
Motya and Palermo, until it was protects the ruins of eight massive
taken by the Romans around 250 BC. temples, including one of the largest
The urban grid pattern clearly known temples of the ancient world,
remains and the paved streets are Temple C. There are also visible
lined with residences and shops, remains of Phoenician, Greek,
some with traces of ancient wall Carthaginian and Byzantine
decoration, mosaics, columns and settlements (see pp36–9).
cisterns. The latter were of supreme
Morgantina
impor tance because Solunto’s 5
position on a promontory above the Morgantina was an important
Tyrrhenian Sea did not offer any commercial centre along the trade
natural water sources (see p102). route from the north coast of Sicily
and the Aeolian Islands to the south.
Taormina
3 Deep in Sicani and Sicel territory, the
city flourished during the Hellenistic
Sited in a spectacular position
on Monte Tauro, the 3rd-century-BC and Roman periods, and extensive
Greek theatre at Taormina is the ruins date from that time (see p117).
second largest in Sicily, but ranks
Segesta
first for the beauty of its backdrop. 6
The view of Reggio di Calabria, the This peaceful and beautiful site
Ionian Sea and Mount Etna is broken comprises the ruins of one of the
only by the scena – marble-faced most important cities of the Elimi, the
niches and columns added later by Hellenized Sicani peoples, and one of
the Romans (see pp18–19). the most perfect Doric temples ever
con structed. The temple’s purpose is
Greek theatre with its stunning unknown, adding mystery to the
backdrop, Taormina already ethereal site (see p100).












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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Ancient Sites ❮❮ 45

Agrigento
7 TOP 10 ARCHITECTURAL STYLES
In the grounds of the Valle dei
Templi lie Greek temples, and a
sanctuary to the goddesses Demeter
and Persephone, the so-called Rock
Sanctuary. The medieval centre of
the town is almost buried by modern
development, though fascinating
pieces of Greek structures were
incorporated into it (see pp32–5).
Villa Romana del Casale
8
The remains of a luxury
hunting villa for a Roman official hold Palazzo dei Normanni, Palermo
the best extant Roman mosaic cycle
in the world. The rich figurative and 1 Phoenician
decorative designs adorn the floors The Phoenician rectangular block walls
fortified the ancient cities of Erice and
of the villa (see pp30–31). Motya and built the foundations of the
Palazzo dei Normanni.
2 Greek
Doric temples and semicircular
theatres are what remain from the
years Sicily spent under Greek rule.
3 Roman
Aqueducts and lavish patrician homes
embellished with mosaics are the most
common examples of this style.
4 Arab Norman
The golden age of Sicily saw the
blending of sharp northern arches
and arabesque red-coloured domes.
Mosaic at the Villa Romana del Casale 5 Spanish Baroque
Motya
9 The arrival of the Jesuits brought
intricate marble inlays (intarsia)
The island city in the lagoon
between Marsala and Trapani was adorning church walls and altars.
6 Late Sicilian Baroque
used from the 8th century BC by An innovation created after the 1693
the Phoenicians to control shipping earthquake, this style can be seen in
routes in the eastern Mediterranean. sandstone palazzi with grand stairways
It became a Carthaginian strong hold and intricate embellishments.
until its destruc tion by Syracuse in 7 Neo Classical
398 BC. Today, walls with fortified Greco-Roman revival style featuring
gates and towers surround the entire frescoes with colours from Pompeii ruins.
perimeter and there is a man-made 8 Neo Gothic
harbour within the walls. Ancient The gilded façade of the Palazzo dei
paved roads, sacred and residential Normanni is a prime example of this
areas can also be seen (see p101). 18th-century movement.
Tindari
0 9 Art Nouveau
The exquisite floral arts movement was
The ruins of ancient Tyndaris
are remarkably well preserved. This the inspiration behind the ornate Villa
Igiea in Palermo.
was one of the last Greek colonies 10 Ventennio
in Sicily, founded by the Syracusans Austere white buildings such as the
in 396 BC. Features include the central post office or the courthouse in
remains of a Roman villa and baths, Palermo remain from the Fascist era.
and an amphitheatre (see p111).



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46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places of Worship





















Palermo’s Byzantine masterpiece, La Martorana
Monreale
La Martorana and San
1 3
Cataldo, Palermo
The monastery and cathedral
Excellent examples of Arab-Norman of Santa Maria La Nova were founded
architecture. The former has the only by William II in 1174. His tomb, along
known portrait of King Roger II (see with the tombs of his father, King
p91). San Cataldo has its original William I, and mother, Queen
unadorned exterior and interior. Margaret, are in the south
transept (see pp14–15).
San Domenico, Palermo
2 San Carlo al Corso, Noto
Sicily’s most illustrious citizens
are buried here, including physicist 4
Dedicated to San Carlo
Stanislao Cannizzaro and painter Borromeo, this 18th-century church
Pietro Novelli (see p91). is located on the Corso and forms
part of Noto’s dramatic Baroque
San Domenico church, Palermo skyline. Climb the tower, which
houses three bells, for views of the
town’s historical centre (see p29).
Other Faiths, Palermo
5
Mosque: MAP L4; Piazza
Gran Cancelliere 6; opening times
vary • Evangelical Church: MAP D2;
Via Parlatore Giuseppe 12; opening
times vary • Anglican Church: MAP
L2; Via Mariano Stabile 118; opening
times vary
Given its long history of invasion (see
pp52–3), Sicily has always been a
cosmopolitan island, particularly in
its capital. Palermo is home to places
of worship for a number of faiths and
includes a mosque – a reminder of
its former Arab inhabitants.


Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
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046-047_Top_10_Sicily.indd 46 30/10/2017 17:04
Date 24th June 2015
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Places of Worship ❮❮ 47

Cappella Palatina,
6
Palermo
This masterpiece of Arab-Norman
art celebrates both the Glory of God
and Norman rule. Masses are said in
the richly decorated chapel (see p13).
San Giorgio, Ragusa
7
MAP F5 • Piazza Duomo
• Open 9:30am–noon, 4–7pm daily
The cathedral of Ragusa Ibla is built
on a rise in a wide tree-lined piazza
in the old town. The undulating
façade is typical of the architect
Gagliardi, supporting a central tower,
bulging columns and swirly volutes.
Cathedral, Syracuse
8
MAP H5 • Piazza Duomo
• Open 7:30am–8pm daily • Adm
This site of a Catholic place of
worship is unique for being set Byzantine interior, Cefalù Cathedral
within a previous sacred site. Behind
Cathedral, Cefalù
the Baroque façade, the structure of 0
a Greek temple to Minerva has been MAP E2 • Piazza Duomo
adapted for use as a church. • 092 1922021 • Ring for admittance
(opening times change monthly)
San Nicola, Agrigento
9 • Adm to cloisters
In 1131, after a stormy crossing,
This 13th-century church is
found within the Valle dei Templi. Norman King Roger II landed at
Taking on a majestic golden hue Cefalù and, giving thanks to God,
at sunset, its façade mixes Gothic commissioned the cathedral now
motifs with ancient Roman columns. famous for its Byzantine mosaic
In a chapel on the right, there is a decoration and its restored cloisters.
Roman sarcophagus with reliefs of The church has two typically Norman
Greek mythology (see p32). square bell towers (see p110).
Aeolian Isola Lipari
Islands
Messina
Monreale Palermo Cefalù A20
S187 A29 S113 Patti S113
Trapani A20 Monti Nebrodi
Alcamo Termini S114
Val di Mázara Imerese M. Madonie Randazzo A18
Marsala Corleone S120 Mount Taormina
A29 Castelvetrano S121 A19 Nicosia Etna
Adrano
A19 Aci Castello
Enna
S115
Ribera Catania
S189 S640 Caltanissetta
Canicattì Palagonia
S417 Lentini
Mediterranean Agrigento S115 Caltagirone Augusta
Sea S117
Licata Gela Syracuse
Ragusa A18
Vittoria Noto S115
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
046-047_Top_10_Sicily.indd 47 30/10/2017 17:04

48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Castles


Castello Ventimiglia,
3
Castelbuono
MAP E3 • Open 9:30am–1pm, 3:30–
7pm daily • Adm
In 1316 the Ventimiglia family built
their fortified family seat on top
of a rocky outcrop in the Madonie
mountains. Within is a Baroque
chapel dedicated to Sant’Anna by
Giacomo Serpotta (1652–1732).
Aci Castello
4
MAP G4 • Open 9am–1pm,
3:30–7pm daily (to 5pm winter)
• Adm
Impregnable walls of Castello Ursino The castle is perched atop a black
promontory, jutting out over the sea.
Castello Ursino, Catania
1 Built by the Normans, it was covered
by lava flows in 1169. It was rebuilt,
MAP G4 • Piazza Federico di
Svevia • Open 9am–7pm daily (last then partially destroyed by Frederick
entry 6:30pm) • Adm II of Aragón in 1297. A stairway scales
Built around 1250, the once-moated the side of the forti fications, giving
castle has been used variously as access to the interior. The passages
a royal residence, the seat of par- and chambers hold the archaeological
liament and a prison. It now houses collection of the Museo Civico.
the town’s Museo Civico. Caccamo
Castello di Lombardia,
2 5
MAP D3 • Open 9am–1pm,
Enna
3–7pm Tue–Sun • Adm
MAP E4 • Open 8am–8pm daily This 12th-century Norman castle
One of the largest castles in Sicily dominates the village and valley
was built by Frederick II in 1233 on below. Pass through the mighty
this high point. Massive walls and six walls, walk among ramparts and
towers remain. The octagonal Torre visit the Sala di Congiura (Hall of the
di Federico II is the only fully Conspiracy), where in 1160 barons
original part standing. plotted to overthrow King William I.
Caccamo castle and the village below



















Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
048-049_Top_10_Sicily.indd 48 30/10/2017 17:04
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm