(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Sicily

Northwest Sicily ❮❮ 99

Trapani
1 day, as there is pretty much nothing
here except for the sea. They are
MAP B2
A busy port since Spanish rule, most famous for the mattanza, the
Trapani is still a bustling place. Arabic tuna-fishing ritual that is still
The modern town has grown but the practised here in spring. Favignana
quaint and lively historic centre is on is dotted with tufa quarries that give
the tiny peninsula – the area covers the island a pockmarked look; the
less than 2.5 sq km. The main streets caves of Levanzo’s interior have
are lined with a mix of Baroque Paleolithic and Neolithic paintings,
buildings, shops and cafés: Via and the swimming is good on all
Torrearsa leads from the port to the three islands. Marettimo, the
market square with its lovely loggia, furthest from the mainland (an
and the Corso leads to the tip of the hour from Trapani), is known for
peninsula, with glimpses of everyday its extraordinarily clear waters.
Sicilian life in the side streets.
Egadi Islands
2
MAP A3
• Hydrofoil and ferry: Trapani
Levanzo, Favignana and Marettimo
can be reached from Trapani in as
little as 20 minutes by hydrofoil and
are great for relaxing on a summer’s
NORTHWEST SICILY
Capo Gallo
Isola delle
Isola delle Capo Gallo
Femmine
Femmine
Mondello
Capo San Vito Mondello
Capo San Vito
San Vito lo Capo
Aeroporto
Aeroporto
T yrrhenian
T yrrhenian San Vito lo Capo Falcone-Borsellino
Falcone-Borsellino
S ea S ea
Terrasini
Golfo di Cófano Terrasini Palermo Capo Capo
Golfo di Cófano
Palermo
Carini
Lo Zingaro
Cast Castelluzzoelluzzo Lo Zingaro Carini Golfo di Zafferano
Zafferano
Golfo di
Palermo
Palermo
Castellammare
Solunto
Montelepre
Golfo di Bonagia
Golfo di Bonagia Castellammare Montelepre Solunto
Custonaci
Custonaci del Golfo Monreale
del Golfo
Monreale
Bagheria
Scopello Balestrate
Erice Scopello Balestrate Partinico Misilmeri Bagheria
Erice
Partinico
Misilmeri
Marettimo Valderice Altofonte A19 A19 S113 S113 Interior of Monreale Cathedral
Altofonte
Marettimo
Valderice
Isola di Levanzo Trapani
Isola di Levanzo Trapani S113 S113 Piana degli
Piana degli
Monreale
Levanzo
Levanzo A29 A29 Albanesi S121 S121 Altavilla 3
Albanesi
Altavilla
Milicia
Lago
Lago
Egadi Paceco Fulgatore Poma Poma Marineo Milicia On this royal hill (mons reale)
Egadi
Marineo
Fulgatore
Paceco
Alcamo
Favignana IslandsIslands
Segesta
Favignana A29dir A29dir Segesta Alcamo San San Lago di Piana Sicily’s Norman king, William II, built
Lago di Piana
Cipirello degli Albanesi
Aeroporto di
Aeroporto di Cipirello degli Albanesi
Trapani-Birgi
Trapani-Birgi Ummari Villafrati the mosaic-encrusted monastery
Villafrati
Ummari
Rilievo
Calatafimi
Camporeale
Isole dello
Isola Isola Isole dello Rilievo Calatafimi Camporeale and cathedral that proved to be the
Favignana Stagnone
Favignana Stagnone S115 S115 A29 A29 Ciminna last and most splendid of the island’s
Ciminna
Motya
Motya Vita Vita Mezzojuso Norman monuments (see pp14–15).
V a l d i M á z a r a
Mezzojuso
Roccamena
Gibellina
Tabaccaro V a l d i M á z a r a Salemi Gibellina Roccamena Erice
Tabaccaro
Salemi
Vecchia
Marsala Vecchia Top 10 Sights 4
Marsala
MAP B2 • www.funiviaerice.it
Lago di
Santa
Santa Lago di Campofiorito see pp99–101 On top of a cliff above Trapani, ancient
Garcia
Garcia
Campofiorito
Ninfa
Ninfa
Mázaro Mázaro Partanna Contessa Places to Eat Eryx was known for its temple to
Contessa
Partanna
Strasatti Lago della A29 A29 Santa Entellina see p105
Strasatti
Entellina
Lago della
Santa
Pizzolato
Pizzolato E931 E931 Trinità Trinità Margherita Venus Erycina, so large that it served
Margherita
Montevago
Bisacquino
Pantelleria Montevago di Belice Bisacquino Traditional Shops as a beacon to sailors at sea. The
Pantelleria
Castelvetrano
di Belice
100 k 100 km (62 miles)m (62 miles) Castelvetrano see p104
Campobello Belice Belice Chiusa temple was replaced with a castle
Chiusa
Campobello
A29 A29 di Mazara Sambuca Sclafani The Best of the Rest in the Middle Ages, and the village
Sclafani
di Mazara
Sambuca
Mazara del
di Sicilia
Mazara del S115 S115 di Sicilia see p102 still has a medieval look. The main
Menfi
Vallo
Vallo Menfi
0 kilometr 15 15 Porto Palo Burgio Landscape Features industry here is tourism: local artisans
0 kilometreses
Burgio
Porto Palo
see p103
0 miles
0 miles 15 15 Selinunte make good ceramics and rugs, and
Selinunte
the views are spectacular.
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100 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Selinunte
5 orchids, limonium, wild carnations,
dwarf palms, iris, once­widespread
The ruins of this Greek city,
including temples, walls, market­ ilex and cork­oak forests, lichens
place and homes, stand majestically and ferns, Bonelli’s eagles, Sicilian
backed by the sea – silent reminders warblers, peregrine falcons, owls,
of the glory of the once great city porcupines and foxes.
(see pp36–9).
Pantelleria
7
MAP A6 • Hydrofoils: Liberty
Lines 092 3873813 • Flights: Palermo
and Trapani
This tiny volcanic island is actually
closer to Africa than Italy. The archi­
tecture reflects Arabic influences and
the island is dotted with dammusi –
low, whitewashed, domed houses.
Pantelleria is renowned for its top­
quality caper production and the
thick and sweet passito wine, made
from the native Zibibbo grape, which
grows well despite the ever­present
scirocco winds that blow from the sea.
Segesta
8
MAP C3 • 4 km (2 miles) from
Calatafimi • Open Mar: 9am–6:30pm
daily; Apr–Oct: 9am–7:30pm daily;
Nov–Feb: 9am–5pm daily • Adm
Reserva Naturale dello Zingaro The most romantic ruins in Sicily are
tucked between the green hills and
Lo Zingaro
6 rugged mountains west of Calatafimi.
The temple was built in perfect, solid
MAP B2
Sicily’s first nature reserve was Doric proportions (c 420 BC) and
instituted in 1980 to protect 7 km stands isolated on a gentle slope,
(4 miles) of rocky coastline on the turning pink in the sunset. Missing
Tyrrhenian Sea between Scopello cella, ungrooved columns and studs
and San Vito lo Capo. Marked trails around the stylobate hint that it was
of various levels of difficulty traverse unfinished. The theatre, high up on
the steep interior, or creep along the Monte Barbaro, is still in use (see p44).
cliff above the sea, occasionally
forking down to small coves with
pebble beaches. The reserve pro­
tects flora and fauna such as wild
MARSALA WINE
When John Woodhouse shipped local
wine to Liverpool in the 18th century,
conserving it with extra alcohol, he
“discovered” Marsala. The product took
off and along with Englishmen Ingham
and Whitaker and Italian Florio, they
began a business fortifying local wine.
In the 20th century, industrial versions
were considered cooking wine but
recent products are high quality.





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Northwest Sicily ❮❮ 101

Motya
9 A DAY EXPLORING TRAPANI
MAP B3
• Museo Whitaker: Open Torre de Ligny Taverna
Apr–Oct: 9:30am–1:30pm Trapani Piazza Mercato Paradiso
& 2:30–6:30pm daily; Nov– Market del Pesce
Perrone
Mar: 9am–3pm daily • Adm Ceramiche San Lorenzo
Cathedral
This archaeological park Souvenir
occupies an entire island
in Lo Stagnone, the lagoon Corso Vittorio Via Erice
Emanuele
north of Marsala, where Torrearsa
the 8th-century BC Church of
Phoenician and later Egadi Islands Sant’Agostino
Carthaginian city of Motya MORNING
(Mozia in Italian) thrived.
Greek Dionysus I of Syracuse Start off your day with a visit to
statue, destroyed it in 398 BC, Trapani’s colourful market, which
is held at the port, at Torre de
Motya leaving it in ruins. The Ligny. Well-stocked vendors are
large archaeological happy to offer tasters of cheeses,
collections of the Museo Whitaker olives and tuna to potential cus-
(former home of the English Marsala- tomers. This is a great place to
producing family) include the striking pick out a few things for a picnic.
Greek marble statue of a youth in a Next, walk up Corso Vittorio
diaphanous pleated tunic (c 440 BC). Emanuele and take a look at
Perrone Ceramiche Souvenir’s
Marsala
0 hand-crafted ceramic pieces
(see p104).
MAP B3 • Museo Archeologico
Baglio Anselmi: Lungomare Boéo • Going down Corso Vittorio
Open 9am–12:30pm Tue, Sun & Emanuele, crane your neck to
public hols, 9am–5:30pm Wed–Sat • see the green majolica domes
of San Lorenzo Cathedral, before
Adm turning off for Il Tonno in Piazza,
This sunbaked seaside town was in Piazza Mercato del Pesce, to
named by the Arabs: Marsa Allah top up your picnic provisions.
(the port of God).It is known as the When Corso Vittorio Emanuele
landing point for Garibaldi’s runs into Via Torrearsa, walk
Redshirts (see p43) and for the wine a few hundred metres to the
named after it. The Marsala wine right to visit the pretty Church
trade was born in the 18th century. of Sant’Agostino, which has a
14th-century rose window,
The Baglio Anselmi is an archae- before passing through the
ological museum housing the arch and back onto Via Torrearsa.
treasures of Marsala’s Punic past. Stop at the end of the peninsula
to enjoy your picnic lunch and
Roman theatre, Segesta the sea views.
AFTERNOON
Either spend the afternoon
shopping in Trapani, or head
up to Erice, with its superb
views. Or take the hydrofoil to
the Egadi Islands of Favignana.
Make it back to Trapani in time
for the sunset to take part in the
local passeggiata, then enjoy a
wonderful fish dinner at Taverna
Paradiso (see p105). Order some
gelato or the typical Sicilan dish
cassata for dessert.
See map on pp98–9


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102 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

The Best of the Rest
















Baroque Villa Palagonia, Bagheria
Alcamo
Bagheria
1 6
MAP D2
MAP C2
This village east of Palermo is now This village has a 14th-century castle
rather built up, but you can still see of the Spanish Counts of Modica,
the elaborate Baroque villas built by who once ruled much of the region.
Palermo’s nobility, when it was all It is best known for Bianco d’Alcamo,
citrus groves and orchards. a white wine with DOC protection.
Cretto di Burri
Marinella di Selinunte
2 7
MAP C2
MAP C4
Italian painter and sculptor Alberto A fishing village with a great morning
Burri created this enormous outdoor market and a small historic centre of
cement sculpture in 1984. It is a fishermen’s homes at the port. The
sombre monument to the lives lost boardwalk is lined with restaurants,
in Gibellina in the 1968 earthquake. bars and bathing establishments.
Solunto
Castelvetrano
3 8
MAP D2
MAP B3
The “City of Olives and Temples”, The Greek village of Solus was built
known for its olive oil production, on top of a Carthag inian settlement,
owes the Arabs its urban plan and its high above the sea. Lacking natural
maze of piazzas. The bronze Ephebus springs, it developed a clever way to
(c 470 BC) is in the Museo Civico. conserve water. Among the ruins are
cisterns, channels and pools.
Mazara del Vallo
4 San Vito lo Capo
MAP B3
MAP B2
This fishing port is home to the lovely 9
Hellenic bronze statue of the Satiro On this dramatic promontory is a
Danzante (“dancing satyr”), found on resort with a long sandy beach and
the seabed by fishermen in 1997. a busy promenade in summer.
Cusa Quarries
Saline, Saltpans
5 0
MAP B3 • Near Campobello
MAP B2 • Museo del Sale:
di Mazara Via Chiusa, Nubia, Paceco
This natural quarry for Selinunte lies • Open 9:30am–7pm daily • Adm
amid olive trees, with tufa blocks and Exceptional sea salt is produced here
half-cut columns. Slaves had to haul using 16th-century windmills. Visit the
columns 9 km (6 miles) to Selinunte. Museo del Sale in Paceco (see p66).
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Northwest Sicily ❮❮ 103

Landscape Features


Rolling Hillsides
Faraglione
1 6
MAP C3
MAP C2
The rolling hills of the Belice valley The rock towers at Scopello Tonnara
are planted with wheat – green in jut out of the water and are circled by
winter, gold in summer and burned seagulls who nest in rock crevices.
black after the harvest – bordered
Belice Valley
by grapevines and olive trees. 7
Near its mouth the wide,
Poggioreale Hill
2 fertile Belice valley is long, low,
MAP C3
flat and very good for farming; it’s
On the road from the ruins of covered with a patchwork quilt of
Poggioreale to the new town, a single wine vineyards, olive groves, melon
wheat-covered hill rises up, topped vines and citrus fruit trees. It is
with a lone wild pear tree. traversed by a typical Sicilian
highway, raised on tall stilts.
Rugged Mountains
3
MAP C3
The rugged hills around Segesta,
Calatafimi and Alcamo look dry and
barren, but resourceful Sicilians plant
them with sturdy vines, cultivating
the hills as high as possible.
Quarries
4
MAP B2
The rocky mountains between
Trapani, Castellamare del Golfo and
San Vito lo Capo are rich in marble,
but are slowly being destroyed by
huge indus trial quarries extracting Farmed fields on the hillsides, Belice
the stone for office buildings. Promontories
Beaches
5 8
MAP B2
The enormous rocky headlands
Long sandy beaches line the
western coast of Sicily, reaching up rising up by the sea include Monte
to the huge stretch of sand at San San Giuliano (with Erice on top),
Vito lo Capo. Pebble beaches are Monte Cofano (with spectacular
found to the northwest, on the coast bays and a great view of Erice), and
of the Golfo di Castellammare. Monte Monaco at San Vito lo Capo.
9
Clear water and sandy beach Plain
The mountains of the interior
flatten as they near the sea towards
Mazara, Marsala and up to Trapani
on the northwest coast. The flat,
sunbaked ground is fertile territory
for grapes, olives and the saltpans.
Erosion
0
The Romans deforested Sicily
to plant wheat. The result is almost
treeless earth, mostly parched and
prone to drastic run-off during rains.
See map on pp98–9
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104 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Traditional Shops


Altieri 1882,
5
Erice
MAP B2 • Via Cordici 14
Since 1882, Altieri has
been producing their
own uniquely designed
pieces in gold, coral
and ceramic (see p82).
Cantine Florio,
6
Marsala
MAP B3 • Via Vincenzo
Florio 1 • www.duca.it/
Airy interior of the Cantine Pellegrino cantineflorio
Inside the Florio wine
Cantine Pellegrino,
1 cellars is a nice store and a wine
Marsala
museum with a selection of antique
MAP B3 • Via del Fante 39 • www. tools used for winemaking.
carlopellegrino.it
Gustibus, Trapani
This established Marsala family winery 7
offers tours (in various languages) of MAP B2 • Corso Garibaldi 119
the cellars and tastings. A great selection of wines, liqueurs,
oils, honey and hand made local
Pasticceria Artigianale
2 products such as ceramics and
Grammatico Maria, Erice
jewellery made from coral and lava.
MAP B2 • Via Vittorio Emanuele 14
La Bottega del Pane
This specialist sweet shop offers a 8
wide range of delicious treats made Rizzo, Castelvetrano
according to recipes collected over MAP B3 • Via Garibaldi 85
the centuries by the sisters of Erice’s Master baker Tommaso Rizzo uses
San Carlo monastery (see p80). local ingredients, natural yeast and a
wood-burning oven to make the
Perrone Ceramiche
3 traditional pane nero di Castelvetrano,
Souvenir, Trapani
a tasty dark-brown bread. There are
MAP B2 • Corso Vittorio also the delicious biscotti piccanti,
Emanuele 106 biscuits made with black pepper and
In addition to ceramic plates, this anise. Other biscuits incorporate
family business also produces honey, sesame seeds and figs.
traditional figurines for nativity
A Maidda, San
scenes, modelled on Sicilian 9
peasants, and miniature terracotta Vito lo Capo
replicas of traditional foods. MAP B2 • Via Savoia 87
A nice selection of Sicilian treats and
La Casa del Tonno,
4 wines – but they don’t come cheap.
Favignana
Museo del Sale, Paceco
MAP A3 • Via Roma 12 • 0
www.iltonno.com The museum store sells boxes
The name, the House of Tuna, says it of traditionally produced sea salt.
all. In central Favignana, the location Sea salt’s rich flavour can vary, along
of the ancient tuna-fishing method with its saltiness, depending on the
called the mattanza (see p53), try this climatic conditions. The fine grain
shop for canned tuna in oil and of the stone-ground salt also adds a
bottarga (dried tuna egg). pleasant texture to foods (see p102).
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Northwest Sicily ❮❮ 105

Places to Eat


Pocho, San Vito lo Capo
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP B2 • Località Isulidda,
Makari • 092 3972525 • Closed Oct– For a three-course meal for one with half a
bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes
Easter • €€ and extra charges.
Dine in an eclectic dining room with € under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70
puppets hanging in the corners or on
the breezy terrace looking down at
La Bettola, Favignana
Monte Cofano and the bay (see p79). 6
MAP A3 • Via Nicotera 47
Taverna Paradiso,
2 • 092 3921988 • Closed Thu, mid-
Trapani
Nov–Jan • €
MAP B2 • Lungomare Dante Alighieri Just the catch of the day here and a
22 • 092 322303 • Closed Sun • €€€ few vegetable dishes. A good place
Locally caught fish prepared simply when the tuna are running.
and with skill. Congenial service.
Agriturismo Vultaggio,
7
Guarrato, near Trapani
MAP B2 • Contrada Misiliscemi 4
• 092 3864261 • €€
Enjoy traditional Sicilian food at this
agritourism farm that produces its
own wine, oil and citrus fruits.
Le Vele, Trapani
8
MAP B2 • Via Serisso 18
• 092 329743 • Closed Mon • €
Le Vele is elegant but not over the
top. As well as great pizzas, they
Typical seafood dish from Trapani serve fish cooked in traditional
Trapani style, but their speciality is
La Pineta, Selinunte
3 patate alla vastasa, spicy potatoes
MAP B4 • Via Punta Cantone
with onion and cheese.
• 092 446820 • €
Bricco & Bacco,
Expertly prepared fresh fish served 9
on the beach under torchlight. Monreale
MAP C2 • Via Benedetto d’Acquisto
Cantina Siciliana,
4 13 • 091 6417773 • Closed Mon
Trapani
& Aug • €€
MAP B2 • Via Giudecca 32 • 092 The fare is inspired by the hearty
328673 • Closed Oct–Feb: Wed • € dishes of Sicily’s interior. Look for
Chef Pino Maggiore offers traditional antipasti, meat (including trippa, or
fare, such as couscous and tripe) and vegetable sides.
almond pesto (see p79). Le 4 Stagioni,
Ristorante
Menfi
5 0
La Terrazza,
Scopello MAP C3 • Via delle
Margherite 15 • 092
MAP C2 • Via Marco 578447 • Closed Nov–
Polo 5 • 092 4541198 Feb; Mar: Mon–Fri • €€
• Closed Tue & Nov At this hotel restaurant
• €€ expect top-quality,
Fresh fish, caught for the Seafood at Le 4 sea-fresh fish and
restaurant, and fine views. Stagioni pasta dishes.
See map on pp98–9
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108 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Northeast Sicily


The northeast of Sicily can’t help but
be dominated by Mount Etna, although
the region also consists of three
mountain ranges, a group of islands
with another active volcano, and two of
Sicily’s largest cities. Parts of this area
have been hit by wars, earthquakes,
tidal waves and lava flows, but the
land and the people return from each
ordeal more steadfast. Perhaps that is
why feast days of the patron saints are
celebrated with so much fervour. High
in the Nebrodi and Madonie mountains,
it seems like nothing has changed for
eons – the same castles that guarded
the royal paths of the interior now keep
watch over the modern autostrada.
Crater on Vulcano Island

NORTHEAST SICILY

Top 10 Sights
see pp109–11 Isola Stromboli
Places to Eat
see p115 Isola Isola Isola Panarea
Filicudi Salina San Pietro
Specialist Shops Rinella Santa Marina Salina
and Markets
see p114 Isola Lipari
Outdoor Activities Alicudi Isola Lipari
see p113 Aeolian Islands
Isola Vulcano Capo di Milazzo
0 kilometres 30
Baronia Messina
Capo
0 miles 30 Calavà
Capo d’Orlando E90 Golfo di Patti A20
Tindari
Galati
Rocca Marina
Cefalù Marina di
Caronia Frazzano Castell’Umberto Novara
E90 Floresta di Sicilia A18 Straits of
San Fratello Tortorici Monti Peloritani Messina
Castelbuono M o n t i N e b r o d i Alcàntara
Mistretta Randazzo Taormina
Cerami Linguaglossa
Madonie Giardini Naxos
Mountains Nicosia Troina Bronte
Alimena Simeto Mount Giarre
A19
S121 Leonforte Agira Etna A18
Salso Adrano
Villarosa Acireale
A19 Paternò
San Enna A19
Cataldo Caltanissetta Castel di Iudica Dittaino Catania
Previous pages Catania’s Duomo and the Fountain of the Elephant
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Northeast Sicily ❮❮ 109

Northeast Sicily 1 4
Giardini Naxos
Aeolian Islands
The islands were declared a
MAP H3 • Site and museum:
World Heritage Site by UNESCO in Open 9am–7pm daily • Adm
recognition of the ongoing evolution Naxos was founded in 734 BC, and
of the volcanic forms that create became the first Greek settlement in
their spectacular scenery. The Sicily. It was the setting off point for
islands remain an important study messengers taking news to Greece.
area for vulcanologists (see pp16–17). The ruins, defen sive walls and parts
of a temple are enclosed in a park.
Messina
2 A small museum houses local finds.
MAP H2
Founded by colonists from Messenia,
Greece, the city grew up around the
harbour. In 1908, Messina was levelled
by an earth quake and tidal wave,
though parts of the older city survived,
including the Norman Duomo with
its original portals and sculpture, a
15th-century fountain in the Piazza
Duomo and a clock tower whose
mechanized figures perform at
noon. The Santissima Annunziata dei
Catalani and the Museo Regionale,
with works by Messina (see p56) and
Caravaggio (see p50), also survived.
San Giuseppe church, Taormina
Straits of Messina
3 Taormina
MAP H2
Sicily’s first true holiday resort,
The narrow strait between Messina 5
and Reggio di Calabria was said to Taormina has been drawing visitors
be guarded by Scylla and Charybdis, for centuries, all of whom fall in love
mythical sea creatures who led sailors with the sparkling, colourful beauty
astray. A proposed suspension bridge of the area (see pp18–19).
linking Sicily and mainland Italy has
Mount Etna
been under debate for more than 30 6
years. Some Sicilians believe a link Europe’s largest active volcano
to the mainland would bring much- dominates Sicily – from much of the
needed economic develop ment, island it is rarely out of sight and
others fear a loss of their autonomy. never out of mind (see pp20–21).
Mount Etna in the distance




















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110 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area


Sandy beach at Cefalù















Cefalù
Madonie Mountains
7 8
MAP E2
MAP E3
The Madonie range, featuring Sicily’s This small fishing town is now a
highest peaks after Mount Etna, resort and must-visit area thanks
extends from Cefalù inland and is to its picturesque sandy beaches
protected by the Parco Naturale and impressive cathedral (see p47).
Regionale delle Madonie. The park, Its location on a strip of land
which encom passes spectacular between the sea and a huge
countryside, includes forests of promontory looming above is also
beech, chestnuts, cork oaks, poplars a draw. Cefalù was founded in the
and fir, and tiny villages that time 4th century BC but destroyed by the
seems to have forgotten. The remote Norman Count Roger in 1063. It only
villages that once provided refuge regained prominence thanks to his
to bandits on the run are now good son, Roger II, who endowed the
starting points for hikes, horse riding, village with a bishopric and an
cycling and skiing (see pp64–5). imposing church decorated with
exceptional Byzantine mosaics.
View over the Madonie Mountains The town has managed to retain
its medieval character despite the
arrival of modern holiday resorts.
The resorts lie to either side of Cefalù
because the town itself has closed
its doors to the sea. It has fortified
itself against storms by building tall
protective stone walls, and focuses
its attention inland instead.
FROM ICE TO ICE CREAM
Greeks and Romans used Mount Etna’s
snow to chill their wine, and the Arabs
used it to make cold, sweet drinks.
Sicilians were used to mixing ice, sugar
and natural flavours (cinnamon, lemon,
jasmine) to make granita and sorbet
but by the 1700s they had perfected
the craft of ice-cream-making, adding
chocolate brought by the Spanish from
the New World. Sicilian gelato is now
famous the world over (see p76).





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Northeast Sicily ❮❮ 111


A MORNING WALK AROUND
CEFALÙ
Piazza Crispi
Via Bordonaro
Via Vittorio
Emanuele Cathedral
Piazza
Marina
Piazza del
Lavatoio Il Normanno Duomo
Corso Ruggero
Osterio
Magno Church of
Santa Maria
della Catena
Piazza Garibaldi
Start your walk at Piazza
Garibaldi, beginning at Corso
Catania
9 Ruggero, where the Church of
Santa Maria della Catena is built
MAP G4
After a huge earthquake in 1693, the on top of the 4th-century BC
city was rebuilt in a unique Baroque town walls. Walking down the
style. The most important monuments Corso, on the left at the corner
of Via Amendola is one of the only
are around the Piazza Duomo, extant parts of Norman Cefalù,
including the Duomo itself. besides the cathedral, the palazzo
Osterio Magno. Pass the flower-
filled piazzetta in front of the
Chiesa del Purgatorio on your way
to Piazza del Duomo, which opens
up to the right. Inside the cathedral
(see p47) admire the mosaics,
and view the outside of the
apse around the back. Sit out
in the piazza at Bar Duomo
with a cappuccino and enjoy the
cathedral façade and the church
bells marking the hour.
Continue down the Corso to
the end, take a left onto Via
Bordonaro and a right into
Piazza Crispi with views of the
Greek walls later absorbed by
Archaeological park, Tindari
Spanish fortifications. Follow Via
Tindari
0 Bordonaro down to Piazza Marina
with the small port below. Off
MAP G2
The large ruins of ancient Tyndaris, to the left, down the Via Vittorio
Emanuele, a staircase leads to
first Greek and then Roman, lie either the lavatoio (washbasins), the
side of the Decumanus Maximus, sole rem nant of Arab domination.
the main street. Homes show mosaic Before lunch, wander around the
floors, drainage and heating systems. “real” Cefalù, where fishermen
A restored basilica spans the street repair boats and women pause
where it marked the entrance into from their laundry to chat.
the public area. The theatre, built Have lunch in the garden at Il
by the Greeks, modified by the Romans Normanno (Via Vanni 9, close to
and still in use, has views out to sea. Corso Ruggero) or pick up some
A small museum houses finds from picnic supplies from Alimentari e
the site including a colos sal head of Salumeria Gatta Gaetano (Corso
Augustus. Nearby is the sanctuary Ruggero 152).
of the Black Madonna.
See map on p108
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112 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Mount Etna Eruptions


1911
693 BC
1 6
This massive volcanic eruption
Two major eruptions on the
destroyed the Greek settlement at north side created a 5-km- (3-mile-)
Katane (ancient Catania). long crevice and 170 craters. The
crevice opened up again in 1923.
396 BC
2 1928
Lava flows from this erup tion
A huge eruption destroyed the
reached the Ionian Sea, pre venting 7
the Carthaginian Himilco from town of Mascali, a significant amount
landing and consequently stopping of cultivated land and several build-
him from marching on Syracuse. ings. This was the only occasion
during the 20th century when a
1169, 1329 and 1381
3 town has been destroyed.
The eruptions in these three
1979
years sent lava spilling out all the 8
way to the sea. The first caused lava An explosion killed nine tourists
to reach Aci Castello; the last flowed who were on the edge of the main
all the way to Catania, pouring into crater, then poured lava into the Valle
the sea at Ognina and covering the del Bove, nearly reaching Fornazzo.
Portus Ulixis, which was mentioned
1991–3
by Virgil in the epic poem The Aeneid. 9
Lava flowed down the Valle
1669
4 del Bove towards Zafferana Etnea;
the authorities tried to divert the
The worst eruption in modern
times was preceded by three days of flow with explosives and by dropping
earthquakes. On the third day, a concrete blocks from helicopters.
huge crevice 14 km (8.5 miles) long The lava finally stopped just 1 km
stretched to Nicolosi and disgorged (half a mile) from the village.
ash, rocks and lava. The eruption
2001–2
lasted four months, destroying towns 0
and leaving 27,000 people homeless. The most complex eruption in
300 years took place in 2001, when
1886
5 Etna disgorged ash and lava from six
openings on the north and southeast
Lava flows from this eruption
once again threatened the village of sides, destroying the Etna Sud cable-
Nicolosi, but the veil of St Agatha car station. During the 2002 eruption
was carried in a procession and the visitors’ centres and hotels were
lava miraculously stopped. It was not ruined, and Catania airport closed.
the first time that St Agatha had
purportedly halted a lava flow. Plume of smoke from Mount Etna








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Northeast Sicily ❮❮ 113

Outdoor Activities


Walking, Tindari
6
Below the promontory, from
Capo Tindari towards Oliveri and
Falcone, the Tindari-Oliveri reserve
has quiet walks by sand formations
and lakes with blue-green water.
Hiking, Nebrodi
7
The Nebrodi Mountain Park
offers pastureland, yew and beech
Alcàntara River and Gorge woods, birds of prey, a wetlands
habitat for migratory birds, and wild
Alcàntara Gorge
1 horses. There are 21 villages, where
The Alcàntara River runs at
artisans produce goods and food.
the bottom of a 20-m- (65-ft-) deep There are marked trails for hiking.
basalt gorge. From the car park, with
Hiking, Aeolian Islands
waders for hire, walk or take the lift 8
to the bottom. You can hike between Hike up the slopes to Vulcano’s
the narrow walls and over waterfalls. crater following the signs “al cratere”.
Or take a guide from the hydrofoil
Horse Riding, Madonie
2 dock up the active volcano Stromboli.
Ranch San Guglielmo:
Castelbuono; 092 1671150 • Rifugio
Francesco Crispi: Castelbuono; 092
1672279
The trails of the Madonie can be
used by horse riders too. There are
various riding stables, some are
attached to good restaurants.
Skiing, Mount Etna
3
Etna Sud Ski School: 349 178
7138 • Etna Nord Ski School: 347 655
1793 • Etna Nord Snowboarding: 340
748 3833 • www.scuolaitaliana
scietna.it Hiking a trail on Mount Etna
There are about 10 ski runs on Etna.
Hiking, Mount Etna
Lift tickets and equip ment hire 9
are available. Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud:
095 7914755; www.etnaguide.eu
Swimming, Aeolian
4 • Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Nord: 095
Islands
7774502; www.guidetnanord.com
Good swimming abounds in the Ascend to the main crater or hike the
Aeolians – the water is clear and slopes accompanied by a guide.
rich in marine life. Hiking, Madonie
Boating, Aeolian Islands
5 0
Italian Alpine Club: 092
The best way to visit hidden
2057231 • www.cai.it
coves and grottoes, and the only way The Madonie mountains have
to get from island to island, is by marked trails graded for difficulty;
boat. A wide selection of organized some are suitable for the disabled.
tours dock on the seven islands. A trail map is available. The Italian
Boat hire is also available. Alpine Club organizes guided tours.
See map on p108
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114 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Specialist Shops and Markets


Ceramiche
6
dell’Artigianato Siciliano
di Managò, Taormina
MAP H3 • Piazza San Domenico 1/2
Signor Managò’s Sicilian ceramics
include designs from Caltagirone
and Santo Stefano di Camastra.
Fratelli Laise, Lipari
7
MAP G1 • Via Vittorio
Emanuele 188
This store’s booty of Aeolian goods
includes capers, sundried tomatoes,
honey, oregano and wine.
Markets
Ceramics, Santo Stefano di Camastra 8
In villages on the slopes of
1 sell their produce from their trucks.
Ceramics, Santo Stefano Mount Etna, such as Fleri, farmers
di Camastra
MAP F2
La Torinese, Taormina
Shops selling Santo Stefano’s famous 9
orange-and-yellow ceramics abound. MAP H3 • Corso Umberto 59
Since 1936, La Torinese has sold
’A Putia, Giardini-Naxos
2 quality wines and liqueurs, tuna roe,
salami, honey and olive oil.
MAP H3 • Corso Umberto 456
and Lungomare IV Novembre 249
Mount Etna Souvenirs
A vast array of delicious Sicilian 0
products, including wine, cheese, MAP G3
honey, pistachios and preserves. The best in lava kitsch can be found
There is also a restaurant. at the base of Etna Sud or Etna Nord.
Ashtrays, mini statues and animal
Via Etnea, Catania
3 figures have been moulded from
molten lava and dipped in glitter.
MAP G4
Big-name Italian stores such as Max
Mara, Benetton, Rinascente, Frette, Souvenirs made from lava
as well as pastry shops and cafés.
Emporio Armani and designer shops
continue on the Corso Italia.
Le Colonne, Taormina
4
MAP H3 • Corso Umberto 164
The proprietor of this jewellery store
in Taormina creates pieces from old
stones, inspired by historical motifs;
or you can create your own design
(see p82).
Apicoltura Privitera,
5
Gravina di Catania
MAP G4 • Via Nino Martoglio 33
Located just above Catania, this
shop sells honey, wine, mead,
honey vinegar, propolis and soaps.
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Northeast Sicily ❮❮ 115

Places to Eat


La Capinera, Taormina
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP H3 • Via Nazionale 177,
Spisone, Taormina Mare • 338 158 For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
8013 • Closed Mon • €€€ taxes and extra charges.
Pietro d’Agostino’s lovely seaside € under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70
restaurant is renowned for its
creative fresh fish preparations, fair
prices and beau tiful atmosphere.
Osteria Nero d’Avola,
2
Taormina
MAP H3 • Piazza San Domenico 2b
• 094 2628874 • €€€
An “ambassador for small artisan
estates”, so chef Turi is called. Great
atmosphere and good prices (see p79).
Chalet Clan dei Ragazzi,
3 Dining on the Aeolian Islands
Linguaglossa
MAP G3 • Pineta Ragabo • 340 735
Ristorante Nenzyna,
0907 • No credit cards • € 7
This rustic wooden chalet, set at Lipari
1,500 m (4,900 ft) up Etna’s northern MAP G1 • Via Roma 4 • 090 9811660
slope, serves simple, authentic food. • Closed Nov–Easter • €
Book in advance for dinner. A tiny trattoria where the owner has
been preparing fresh fish and other
Pepe Rosa, Bronte
4 favourites for more than 40 years.
MAP G3 • Corso Umberto 226
Trattoria da Pina,
• 095 7724476 • Closed Mon • €€ 8
Bronte is known for its pistachios, Vulcano
which feature in every MAP G1 • Gelso • 368 668 555
course at this charming • No credit cards • Closed mid-
little family-run restaurant. Oct–Easter • €
Don’t miss the bruschetta Good Aeolian cuisine is
with pistachio pesto. served on a dockside
terrace at Gelso, with
La Grotta,
5 views to Mount Etna.
Acireale
Ristorante
MAP G3 • Via Scalo Bruschetta cod with 9
Grande 46, Santa Maria olives and zucchini Pizzeria
La Scala • 095 7648153 Granduca, Taormina
• Closed Tue • €€ MAP H3 • Corso Umberto 172 • 094
Set in an actual grotto, this six-table 224983 • Closed Tue (Nov–Apr) • €€
restaurant is a local favourite thanks This terraced pizzeria has a garden
to top-quality fish. Booking is a must. and wonderful views.
Nangalarruni,
Osteria Antica Marina,
6 0
Castelbuono
Catania
MAP G4 • Via Pardo 29 • 095 348197 MAP E3 • Via delle Confraternite 7
• Closed Wed • €€€ • 092 1671228 • Closed Wed (except
This osteria in the middle of the fish Jul–mid-Sep) • €€€
market sells a selection of each Great mountain food, such as pork
day’s catch. Try marinated anchovies. from the Nebrodi heritage breed.
See map on p108
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116 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Southwest Sicily


Beyond the beauty of the mosaics at the Villa Romana and the
temples at Agrigento, sandy beaches, ruined Greek cities and olive
groves feature all along the little-developed coastline of southwest
Sicily. Enna dominates the wide, wheat-filled valleys, and isolated
farming villages crown the hilltops, with vast expanses of rocky
mountains or rolling fields in between. As a
result of the lack of infrastructure and
mass emigration from the region, the
villages have remained almost as
they were centuries ago.

Greek Temple, Agrigento







SOUTHWEST SICILY
Caccamo
Caccamo
Camporeale
Collesano
Calatafimi
Calatafimi Camporeale Villafrati Torto Torto Collesano M ad onie
M ad onie
Villafrati
M ountain s
Montemaggiore
A29
A29
Roccamena
Roccamena Montemaggiore M ountain s
Belsito
Petralia
Gibellina Vicari Belsito Petralia
Gibellina
Vicari
Soprana
Nuova
Nuova Corleone Caltavuturo A19 A19 Soprana
Caltavuturo
Corleone
Lercara
Gibellina
Gibellina Lercara Alia Alia Valledolmo
Valledolmo
Friddi
Castellana
Vecchia Poggioreale Friddi Castellana
Vecchia Poggioreale
Sicula
Sicula
Prizzi
Bisacquino Prizzi
Bisacquino
Alimena
Partanna
Partanna Sambuca Castronuovo Alimena
Castronuovo
Sambuca
Vallelunga
Vallelunga
Verdura
Belice Belice di Sicilia Verdura Palazzo di Sicilia S189 S189 Pratameno S121 S121 Resuttano
di Sicilia
Palazzo di Sicilia
Pratameno
Resuttano
Adriano
Adriano
Menfi Burgio Cammarata Salso Salso
Menfi
Burgio
Cammarata
Alessandria
Alessandria Mussomeli Villarosa
Villarosa
Mussomeli
della Rocca
della Rocca
Porto
Casteltermini
Santa Caterina
Porto S115 S115 Casteltermini Sutera Santa Caterina Enna A19 A19
Enna
Gallo d’Oro
Sutera
Villarmosa
Palo Palo Caltabellotta Gallo d’Oro Villarmosa
Caltabellotta
San Biagio San San
San Biagio
Milena
Cataldo
Ribera
E931 E931 Ribera Milena Cataldo
Platani
Capo Capo Platani
Caltanissetta
San Marco Sciacca
Serradifalco
Platani
San Marco Sciacca Platani S189 S189 Serradifalco Caltanissetta
Cattolica
Seccagrande Cattolica Pietraperzia Mor Morgantinagantina
Seccagrande
Pietraperzia
Eraclea Aragona Racalmuto
Racalmuto
Eraclea Aragona
Aidone
Montallegro S640 S640 Aidone
Montallegro
Villa Romanaomana
Eraclea Minoa Villa R
Eraclea Minoa
del Casaleasale
Favara Canicattì Delia Sommatino del C
Favara Canicattì Delia
Sommatino
San Michele
South of Sicily SICIL San Michele
SICILYY
South of Sicily
Agrigento
Agrigento Naro Naro di Ganzaria
di Ganzaria
Mazzarino
La Scala Naro Naro Mazzarino
La Scala
Area of Campobello Riesi Riesi
Area of
Campobello
San Leone
Pant Pantelleriaelleria Main Map dei Turchi Porto San Leone di Licata
dei Turchi Porto
Main Map
di Licata
Empedocle Gela Gela S117 S117 Caltagirone
Empedocle
Caltagirone
Scoglio di S115 S115 Palma di
Palma di
Scoglio di
Maróglio
Butera
Pietra Patella
Montechiaro
Pelag MAL Pietra Patella Montechiaro Butera Maróglio
Pelagie Islandsie Islands
MALTATA
Niscemi
Marina di Palma
Linosa
Linosa Marina di Palma E931 E931 Salso Salso Niscemi
Lampedusa
Lampedusa
0 km 0 km 100 100 Medit Falconara 0 kilometr 15 15
Mediterraneanerranean
Falconara
0 kilometreses
TUNISIA
TUNISIA 0 miles 100 100 Sea Sea Licata
Licata
0 miles
0 miles
Golfo di Gela Gela
Pelagie Islands Golfo di Gela Gela 0 miles 15 15
Pelagie Islands
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Southwest Sicily ❮❮ 117

Southwest Sicily 1 (1581), with its decorative reliefs, and
Agrigento and the Valle
dei Templi
the Catalan-Gothic Palazzo Steripinto,
The Valley of the Temples was the with its diamond-shaped rustication.
heart of one of the most important Then walk down the Corso Vittorio
cities in the ancient world Emanuele to the Piazza A
and is a prime example of Scandaliato for views down
the magnificence of Magna to the port, then on to the
Graecia (see pp32–5). Duomo for its beautiful
Baroque façade with
Sciacca
2 Gagini sculptures.
MAP C4
Il Corleonese
Dominated by Monte San 3
Calogero and built on a MAP C3
terrace over the sea, this The central zone around
was the thermal spa town the village of Corleone
for Selinunte and still is referred to as il
has a spa offering Vase from Sciacca Corleonese and has
sulphur and mud baths. long been known
The small port town has a for its generous water supplies
harbour with little blue-and-white and fertile soil. Remote villages
boats, a thriving ceramics tradition are sprinkled throughout, all
and a good mix of old and new. Stop worth a quick visit to witness a
to admire the Porta San Salvatore way of life that is slow to change –
visit Bisacquino, Palazzo Adriano,
SOUTHWEST SICILY Cammarata, Mussomeli, Prizzi and
Corleone itself, a successful modern
Caccamo
Caccamo
Camporeale
Collesano
Calatafimi Camporeale Villafrati Torto Torto Collesano M ad onie Top 10 Sights town with a lovely historic centre.
Calatafimi
M ad onie
Villafrati
M ountain s
Morgantina
Montemaggiore
A29
A29
Roccamena Montemaggiore M ountain s see pp117–9 4
Roccamena
Gibellina
Belsito
Petralia
Gibellina Vicari Belsito Petralia MAP F4 • Open 9am–7pm
Vicari
Soprana
Nuova
Nuova Corleone Caltavuturo A19 A19 Soprana Places to Eat
Caltavuturo
Corleone
see p123
Lercara
Gibellina Lercara Alia Alia Valledolmo daily • Adm
Gibellina
Morgantina was settled first by
Valledolmo
Friddi
Castellana
Vecchia Poggioreale Friddi Castellana Scenic Views
Vecchia Poggioreale
Sicula
Sicula
Prizzi
Bisacquino
Bisacquino Prizzi see p121 the Italic Morganti people, then
Alimena
Partanna
Partanna Sambuca Alimena Chthonic Deities and by the Greeks in the 6th century BC,
Castronuovo
Sambuca
Vallelunga
Vallelunga
Belice Belice di Sicilia Verdura Palazzo Castronuovo S189 S189 Pratameno S121 S121 Resuttano their Sites then the Romans, though it was only
Verdura
di Sicilia
di Sicilia
Palazzo di Sicilia
Resuttano
Pratameno
excavated in 1955. The large, well-
see p120
Adriano
Adriano
Burgio
Menfi Burgio Cammarata Salso Salso preserved site comprises a split-level
Menfi
Cammarata
Alessandria Mussomeli Villarosa
Alessandria
Villarosa
Mussomeli
della Rocca
della Rocca agora (forum) for town meetings, the
Casteltermini
Santa Caterina
Porto
Enna
Porto S115 S115 Casteltermini Sutera Santa Caterina Enna A19 A19
Sutera
Gallo d’Oro
Villarmosa
Palo Palo Caltabellotta Gallo d’Oro Villarmosa macellum (covered market), large,
Caltabellotta
San Biagio
San Biagio San San black lava millstones, a gymnasium,
Ribera
Milena
Cataldo
E931 E931 Ribera Milena Cataldo
Platani
Capo Capo Platani a fountain with a double basin, homes
Caltanissetta
Serradifalco
San Marco Sciacca
Platani
San Marco Sciacca Platani S189 S189 Serradifalco Caltanissetta with mosaic flooring, a 1,000-seat
Cattolica
Seccagrande Cattolica Pietraperzia Mor Morgantinagantina theatre and kilns for firing terracotta.
Seccagrande
Pietraperzia
Eraclea Aragona Racalmuto
Eraclea Aragona
Racalmuto
Aidone
Montallegro
Montallegro S640 S640 Aidone
Villa Romanaomana
Eraclea Minoa Villa R Ancient settlement of Morgantina
Eraclea Minoa
del Casaleasale
Favara Canicattì Delia Sommatino del C
Favara Canicattì Delia
Sommatino
San Michele
South of Sicily
SICILYY
South of Sicily SICIL San Michele
Agrigento
Agrigento Naro Naro di Ganzaria
di Ganzaria
Mazzarino
La Scala Naro Naro Mazzarino
La Scala
Campobello
Area of Campobello Riesi Riesi
Area of
San Leone
Pant Pantelleriaelleria Main Map dei Turchi Porto San Leone di Licata
dei Turchi Porto
Main Map
di Licata
Caltagirone
Empedocle
Empedocle Gela Gela S117 S117 Caltagirone
Scoglio di S115 S115 Palma di
Scoglio di
Palma di
Maróglio
Butera
Montechiaro
Pietra Patella
Pelag MAL Pietra Patella Montechiaro Butera Maróglio
Pelagie Islandsie Islands
MALTATA
Niscemi
Marina di Palma
Linosa
Linosa Marina di Palma E931 E931 Salso Salso Niscemi
Lampedusa
Lampedusa
0 km 0 km 100 100 Medit Falconara 0 kilometr 15 15
Mediterraneanerranean
0 kilometreses
Falconara
TUNISIA
TUNISIA 0 miles 100 100 Sea Sea Licata
Licata
0 miles
0 miles
Golfo di Gela Gela
Pelagie Islands
Pelagie Islands Golfo di Gela Gela 0 miles 15 15
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118 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Enna
6
MAP E4
Due to its easily defend able position
on the top of a tall hill, Enna was
almost the only town in the interior
for centuries. The Greeks called it
the “umbilicus of Sicily”, and it was a
key position for any group that wanted
to take the island. Enna was so well
defended that the Arabs, having tried
to capture it for 20 years, resorted to
crawling in through the sewer system.
In the historic centre, see the Gothic
Duomo with Baroque renovations and
the church of San Giovanni with an
Arab dome. Also visit the Museo
Sandy beach at Eraclea Minoa Musical Art 3M. Once considered the
geographic centre of Sicily, octagonal
Eraclea Minoa
5 Frederick’s Tower is 24 m (79 ft) tall
and offers fine views from the top.
MAP C4 • Open: Apr–Sep:
9am–7pm daily; Oct–Dec: 9am– Castello di Lombardia is a mixture of
5pm daily • Adm Byzantine, Arab, Norman and Swabian
The ruins of this ancient Greek city lie architecture, and is one of the
on a headland above a wide sandy largest and most important of Sicily’s
beach, above vineyards and olive medieval castles (see p48).
groves and on the white sandstone
Caltabellotta
cliffs. Midway between Selinunte and 7
Agrigento and on the border between MAP C4
Carthaginian- and Greek-held territory, This tiny village, 950 m (3,100 ft) above
Eraclea Minoa saw its share of border sea level, has a lovely medieval centre.
disputes. Now, it is quiet and well kept. In 1090, the already fortified village
A small museum and groomed paths was taken from the Arabs by the
lead to an intimate theatre carved Norman king Count Roger, who built
into the sandstone, remains of defen- the Chiesa Madre and fortified the
sive walls with towers and the resi- now ruined castle. It was in this castle
dential section where a few houses in 1194 that William III, the heir to the
made of local stone have kept their Norman throne, and his mother were
floor and wall decorations. Since it’s held prisoner and probably murdered
not on the standard tour bus route, by Emperor Henry VI; it was also the
the added pleasure of a visit is that site of the signing of the 1302 peace
you may have this place all to yourself. treaty between Frederick II of Aragón
and Charles of Valois, putting an end
View over Caltabellotta to the Sicilian Vespers (see p42).

















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Southwest Sicily ❮❮ 119

Pelagie Islands
8 AN AFTERNOON IN
CALTABELLOTTA
MAP B6
These are three flat islands isolated Chiesa Madre San
in the Mediterranean. Lampione is Salvatore
uninhabited, Linosa has volcanic soil Monte Castello
and clear waters. Lampedusa has Piazza Umberto I
constructed modern buildings for the
tourist boom but it is still good for
swimming, diving and watching sea
turtles, dolphins and whales (in May). Via Roma
La Ferla
Take a late afternoon drive from
the bustling town of Sciacca up
to sleepy Caltabellotta. Skip the
modern outskirts of the village to
wander around the narrow streets
and piazzettas of Terravecchia, the
old medieval centre.
Terravecchia lies on a flat plain
under the Chiesa Madre. This
stark, Norman church was
founded by Count Roger one year
Villa Romana del Casale mosaic
before he took Palermo (see
Villa Romana del Casale
9 pp12–13). It has been restored, so
admire the entry portal with
The finest surviving Roman
mosaics in the world cover the pointed arch and the bell tower
which was originally an Arabic
floors of this official’s luxurious fortification. The unornamental
hunting villa (see pp30–31). exterior belies the inside of this
charming church where you can
La Scala dei Turchi
0 see the Madonna of the Chain, St
Benedict and Madonna and Child –
MAP D4
A popular summer destination for all works by the artist Gagini.
Sicilians, La Scala dei Turchi, near On the other side of the plain,
Realmonte, is a marl rock formation opposite the Chiesa Madre, find
named for its natural harbour, which the tiny church of San Salvatore
with its zigzag decoration around
was a hideaway from the invading the door.
Turks in the 16th century. The
ripples in the cliff, sculpted by To the north of the church, use
the elements, are accessed via a the steps carved out of the rock
to climb up to the highest point of
limestone entrance. The well- Monte Castello. Walk around the
worn path can be slippery. ruins of Count Roger’s castle,
with its single Gothic doorway,
and take in one of the most
ORANGES AND OTHER CITRUS stunning views in Sicily. You can
FRUITS see the coastline to the south
Citrus fruits were introduced to Sicily from Agrigento (see pp32–5) to
by the Arabs and have been a cash Marsala (see p101).
crop for centuries. There are lemons, Back in Caltabellotta, stroll from
tangerines, mandarins and varieties of Piazza Umberto I to Via Roma
oranges, from sweet to sour, pale gold in the newer part of the village,
to dark purple. The plantations, around where you can have an excellent
Ribera, are marked by their low-growing dinner of traditional Sicilian
trees with dark-green leaves, bright mountain fare at the cosy
fruits and heady fragrance. La Ferla trattoria (see p123).
See map on pp116–17
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120 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Chthonic Deities and their Sites


Lago di Pergusa
Demeter
1 5
The cult of the Mother
A deep natural lake
Goddess, the protector of south of Enna is the supposed
agricul ture and fertility, is site of the passage from Earth
one of the most ancient in to the underworld.
Sicily. When her daughter
Sanctuary
Persephone went 6
missing, Demeter at Enna
roamed the Earth The seat of the cult of
searching for her, Demeter and Persephone
ignoring the crops and was based at Enna on
causing a famine. Bust of Demeter dated the boulder behind the
500–450 BC castle. Their temple
Persephone
2 the Mother Goddess (Demeter).
contained a statue of
The daughter of Demeter
and Zeus (also known as Kore or, to
Votive Offerings from
the Romans, Proserpine) rules as 7
both queen of the under world and the Sanctuary at Enna
goddess of fertility. MAP E4 • Museo Archeologico,
Palazzo Varisano, Piazza Mazzini
Persephone’s Abduction
3 • Open 9am–6pm daily • Adm
Items recovered from the sanc tuary
While gathering flowers with
her girlfriends in fields below Enna, and from sites near Lake Pergusa
Persephone was abducted by Hades are preserved in Enna’s Museo
to reign as queen of the underworld. Archeologico, including votive
statuettes of Demeter.
Rock Sanctuary of
8
Demeter, Agrigento
The Earth goddesses were vene rated
at a walled sanctuary in Agrigento,
which is now marked by the church
of San Biagio. The church was built
on top of a 5th-century BC temple, of
which two round altars remain.
Sanctuary at Morgantina
9
Demeter and Persephone
were worshipped as the protec tors
of Morgantina. In the sanctuary it is
possible to see purification baths,
altars for performing rituals and a
well for sacred offerings.
0
Persephone returns to Earth Sanctuary at Palma
di Montechiaro
Persephone’s Return
4 Three small 7th-century-BC votive
statuettes of the goddesses Demeter
Hades freed Perse phone but
she had to eat a pomegranate seed, or Persephone are now in the
which would ensure her return to the archaeological museum in Syracuse.
underworld for four months a year. They were recovered from the
For four months it is winter on Earth; sanctuary of Palma di Montechiaro,
when she returns, it is spring. between Agrigento and Gela.
See map on pp116–17
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Southwest Sicily ❮❮ 121

Scenic Views


Countryside around Il
From Caltabellotta
1 6
Corleonese
MAP C4
From the ruins of the Norman castle Vast expanses of rolling terrain are
above Caltabel lotta (see pp118 and 19) planted with wheat, vines, olives and
you can see all the way to the flat silvery blue artichokes. There are
coast towards Marsala and the hilly bright blankets of crimson sulla, red
interior dotted with villages and farms. poppies and hearty yellow fennel
growing impossibly tall (see p117).
Prizzi
2 Vallate near Enna
MAP D3
Driving through the Corleonese zone 7
MAP E4
(see p117), Prizzi is one of the highest The enormous fertile vallate (valleys)
towns, covering the top of its hill like around Enna are planted with wheat,
a coppola (peasant farmer’s cap). and the spectacular stretches of soft
golden fields change colour with the
Views from Enna
3 seasons, from lush green, to pale
yellow, to black.
MAP E4
From the Piazza Crispi, see across
The Rocca di Nadore
the deep valley to Calascibetta on the 8
flat top of its own terraced hill, as MAP C4
well as across the interior all the The round-topped Rocca di Nadore
way to Mount Etna. above Sciacca turns its flat, white
face towards the sea and dominates
Sutera
4 the coast for miles. See it looming on
the horizon as far away as Selinunte.
Set amid the Sikanian hills,
Sutera affords sweeping vistas to the
From Morgantina
Mediterranean and Mount Etna, with 9
seemingly endless fields of wheat From the residential sector of
below. Spring is pretty when there are the ancient site on the east hill, look
swathes of wildflowers such as sulla, down on the agora (forum) and out
poppies and buttercups. towards the east coast and the
outline of Mount Etna (see p117).
The Valle dei Templi
5 From Eraclea Minoa
by Night
From the ruins of Eraclea
Agrigento’s temples are romantic at 0
night. Attractive from any vantage Minoa on top of a striking white
point, perhaps the finest view is from sandstone cliff, look down towards
a restaurant’s terrace, dining with the wide stretch of sandy beach and
the Temple of Concord as the dark sea below
a backdrop (see pp32–5). (see p118).
Temple of Concord
by night








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122 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Local Produce


Olive Oil
5
Cities such as Castelvetrano
and Trapani are famous for their
olives. The harvest begins in October,
and first pressings of the extra virgin
olive oil are available from the end of
November. Towns celebrate the new
season’s oil with tastings.
Fresh Fish
6
Fishing villages line the
southern coast of Sicily, with centres at
Licata, Porto Empedocle and Sciacca.
Wheat
7
Latifondi (large estates owned by
Vineyards, Regaleali nobility) took up much of the interior
until well into the 20th century. Today,
Wine
1 vast valleys and hills are devoted to
cultivating Sicily’s special wheat
During the 20th century large
estates growing wheat and other known as grano duro, which is an
crops also started to cultivate vines important source of income (see p77).
to produce high-quality wine. Two
Cheese
good examples are Regaleali (see 8
p75) near Vallelunga and Planeta Sicily is renowned for its
near Sambuca di Sicilia. cheeses, made from both cow and
sheep’s milk. Look for the sharp
Oranges
2 Caciocavallo Ragusano, the saffron-
Ribera is well known for its
infused Piacentino di Enna and the
production of the prized Washington soft Vastedda del Belice.
variety of navel orange, introduced to
Broad Beans
the area by emigrants returning from 9
North America. Large broad beans, or fave,
are cultivated in the countryside
Co-operative Produce
3 near Enna. They are eaten dressed
with olive oil or used in soups.
In and around Corleone (see
p117), several co-operatives under
Artichokes
the umbrella Libera Terra culti vate 0
land confiscated from Mafia bosses A staple of Sicilian cuisine, they
to create jobs and strengthen the are at their best in spring. Cerda has
economy of the area. Wheat is grown a three-day artichoke festival in April.
for pasta, grapes for wine, as well as
fruits, cheeses and honey.
Preserved Fish
4
Preserved tuna was a staple
food for centuries on ships sailing
the Mediterranean, and tuna as well
as anchovies and sardines are still
big business. At Sciacca, anchovies
and sardines are processed by hand
and packed under salt or olive oil for
export all over the world. Artichokes for sale
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Southwest Sicily ❮❮ 123

Places to Eat


La Madia, Licata
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP E5 • Corso F Re Capriata
22 • 092 2771443 • Closed Tue, Sun For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
dinner; Sun lunch (Jul & Aug) • €€€ taxes and extra charges.
Chef Pino Cuttaia is creative and € under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70
dedicated to seasonality at this small
restaurant in Licata (see p79). La Lanterna, Milena
Trattoria dei Templi,
2 7
MAP D4 • Via Pietro Nenni 8
Agrigento
• 093 4933478 • Closed Mon • €
MAP D4 • Via Panoramica dei An informal trattoria with traditional
Templi 15 • 092 2403110 local Sicilian food. The set
• Closed Sun • € menu is good value.
This family-run
La Ferla,
trattoria has an 8
excellent Sicilian Caltabellotta
menu: try pasta with MAP C4 • Via Roma
swordfish and mint. 29 • 092 5951444
• Closed Mon, Oct • €
Ristorante
3 Pasta alla roasted artichokes and local
A local favourite. Try the
Pomara, San
Michele di Ganzaria Norma cheeses. Sea views.
MAP F4 • Via Vittorio Veneto 84
Capitolo Primo del
• 093 39760976 • € 9
The stone fireplace in this restaurant Relais Briuccia,
is where local cheeses, vegetables Montallegro, near Agrigento
and meats are grilled for hearty MAP D4 • Via Trieste 1 • 339 759
dishes such as pasta with pistachios. 2176 • Closed Mon • €€
Creative versions of Sicilian dishes
Ristorante Gennaro,
4 with items from wild fennel to saffron.
Corleone
MAP C3 • Corso Dei Mille 132
• 091 8464767 • €€
Run by a couple, this restaurant
serves traditional Sicilian cuisine and
pizzas, alongside artisanal craft beer.
Osteria il Grappolo,
5
Sciacca
MAP C4 • Via Conzo 9/A • 092
585294 • Closed Tue • €
Sicilian dishes here are made with
products from the family’s small farm
and the fish is fresh from the sea. Capitolo Primo del Relais Briuccia
Ruga Reali, Agrigento
Porto San Paolo, Sciacca
6 0
MAP D4 • Cortile Scribani 8
MAP C4 • Largo San Paolo 1
• 092 527982 • Closed Wed, mid- • 092 220370 • Closed Sun • €
Oct–mid-Nov • €€ An informal osteria popular with
The daily catch is cooked in typical locals and specializing in fish
Mediterranean style. Terrace tables dishes. The 15th-century building
look over Sciacca’s small port and has beams and a courtyard for
out to sea. alfresco dining.
See map on pp116–17
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124 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Southeast Sicily


The landscape of the southeast is
different from the rest of the island:
here the white limestone strata with
scrubland is broken by steep gorges
and low dry-stone walls. The Greek
and Roman remains at Syracuse are
spectacular, while Caltagirone, Modica,
Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa and Scicli
have all been declared World Heritage
Baroque Sites thanks to their Baroque architecture
ornamentation and urban planning. There is also a
gastronomic renaissance taking place
in this area. Seafood from the coastal zones, along with meat,
cheese and wild greens from the interior are being used by young
chefs aware that old traditions and even ingredients are on the
brink of extinction. They are returning to their roots and preserving
and revitalizing the authentic cuisine of the region.

SOUTHEAST SICILY
Agnone Bagni
Palagonia
Ortygia, Syracuse
S417 S417 Palagonia Lentini Agnone Bagni RIVA RIVA Ortygia, Syracuse
Lentini
Capo Campolato
San Michele Militello Scordiadia Capo Campolato NAZARIO
San Michele
NAZARIO
Scor
Militello
di Ganzaria
di Ganzaria SAURO SAURO LUNGOMARE DI
Capo Santa
Carlentini Capo Santa VIA ERITREA VITTORINI
Carlentini
VIA ERITREA
PIAZZA
Croce Croce
Caltagirone Francofonte Augusta PIAZZA
Caltagirone
DELLA
DELLA
LUNGOMARE DI
Francofonte
LEVANTE ELIO
LEVANTE ELIO
VITTORINI
Augusta
POSTA
S117
S117
POSTA
Melilli
Sortino
Golfo di
PIAZZA
Grammichele
LARGO
LARGO
PONTE UMBERTO I
PANCALI
PANCALI
Niscemi
Niscemi Grammichele M o n t i I b l e i Sortino Melilli Golfo di PONTE UMBERTO I PIAZZA GRAZIELLA
Augusta
Augusta
GRAZIELLA
Vizzini
M o n t i I b l e i
Licodia
Licodia Vizzini Pantalica
Pantalica
Eubea Necropolis VIA VIT T O R I O V E N E TO
Eubea
Necropolis
Monterosso Anapo Anapo
Monterosso
Santo Almo Almo Solarino Syracuse
Santo
Syracuse
Solarino
Buscemi
Pietro Buscemi Palazzolo CO RS O MAT TE OT TI
Pietro
Palazzolo
Floridia
Acreide
LARGO
Acreide Floridia LARGO
VIA VIT T O R I O V E N E TO
PORTA
PORTA
see Orty
Acateate Chiaramonte Giarratana see Ortygiagia MARINA PIAZZA
Ac
Chiaramonte
MARINA
Giarratana
map right
map right
PIAZZA
Canicattini
CO RS O MAT TE OT TI
Gulfi Gulfi Canicattini A18 A18 ARCHIMEDE VIA DE TOLOMEI
S115
S115
ARCHIMEDE
Bagni Ognina VIA MAESTRANZA ZA
Bagni
Ognina
VIA MAESTRAN
VIA DE TOLOMEI
Cassibile
Comiso
Comiso Ragusa V a l d i N o t o Cassibile Isola di O r t ygia ygia
Isola di O r t
Ragusa
Frigintini
Vittoria Frigintini S115 S115
Vittoria
Av
V a l d i N o t o
VIA M. MINNITI
Noto Noto Avolaola F O RO I TAL ICO PA S SE G GIO A D O RN O PIAZZA V IA R O MA V IA R O MA VIA M. MINNITI VIA NIZZA VIA NIZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Calabernardo DELDEL PIAZZA
Calabernardo
Tellaro
Tellaro
S. GIUSEPPE
Scogliti Santa Croce Modica A18 A18 DUOMO S. GIUSEPPE
Santa Croce
DUOMO
Scogliti
Modica
F O RO I TAL ICO
Camerinaina LARGO DELLA
Camer
LARGO DELLA
Golfo di Noto GANCIA
Golfo di Noto
GANCIA
PA S SE G GIO A D O RN O
LARGO
Marina di Rosolini LARGO
Marina di
Rosolini
LU NGOMARE ORTYG
ARETUSA
Ragusa
Ragusa Scicli Scicli ARETUSA
Ispica
Punta Secca
Punta Secca Ispica LU NGOMARE ORTYGIA IA
Sampieri
Marzamemi
Donnalucata Sampieri Marzamemi MANIACE LO
Donnalucata
VIA CAST
Pozzallo
Pozzallo
Pachino
Pachino
MANIAC E L
VIA CASTE L E LO
Portopalo di
Portopalo di PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Capo Passero
FREDERICO
Top 10 Sights Ortygia Sights Capo Passero FREDERICO
DI SVEVIA
DI SVEVIA
Capo Passero
see pp125–7 see p130 Punta delle Capo Passero
Punta delle
Formiche
Formiche
Places to Eat Ethnographic
see p131 Museums
see p129
The Best of the Rest 0 kilometres 15 15 0 metres 250250
0 metres
0 kilometres
see p128
0 yards
0 miles 15 15 0 yards 250250
0 miles
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Southeast Sicily ❮❮ 125

















Spectacular location of Ragusa Ibla
Ragusa
Noto
1 2
Noto was rebuilt in Baroque
MAP F5
style after the earthquake of 1693, Ragusa was founded as Hybla Heraia
using a tufa stone that has turned a by the Sicels. After the earthquake of
golden shade. There are wide streets 1693, half the population rebuilt on
and plenty of piazzas and piazzettas the ridge above (Ragusa) while the
for the passeggiata (see pp28–9). other half renovated the old village
(Ragusa Ibla). Ibla has a dramatic
SOUTHEAST SICILY location with its buildings clinging
to the side of a cliff. The Duomo, a
Agnone Bagni
Ortygia, Syracuse
Palagonia
S417 S417 Palagonia Lentini Agnone Bagni RIVA RIVA Ortygia, Syracuse Gagliardi masterpiece, is at the heart
Lentini
Capo Campolato
San Michele Militello Scordiadia Capo Campolato NAZARIO of town, while the oval-shaped church
San Michele
NAZARIO
Scor
Militello
SAURO
di Ganzaria SAURO LUNGOMARE DI
di Ganzaria
Capo Santa
Carlentini
Carlentini Capo Santa VIA ERITREA VITTORINI of San Giuseppe has another striking
VIA ERITREA
PIAZZA
Croce Croce
Caltagirone
Caltagirone Francofonte Augusta PIAZZA Baroque façade.
DELLA
LUNGOMARE DI
DELLA
Francofonte
LEVANTE ELIO
LEVANTE ELIO
VITTORINI
Augusta
POSTA
POSTA
S117
S117
Melilli
Golfo di
Sortino
PIAZZA
Grammichele
LARGO
LARGO
Niscemi Grammichele M o n t i I b l e i Sortino Melilli Golfo di PONTE UMBERTO I PIAZZA GRAZIELLA
Niscemi
PANCALI
PONTE UMBERTO I
PANCALI
Augusta
Augusta
GRAZIELLA
M o n t i I b l e i
Vizzini
Licodia Vizzini Pantalica
Licodia
Pantalica
Eubea
Eubea Necropolis VIA VIT T O R I O V E N E TO
Necropolis
Monterosso Anapo Anapo
Monterosso
Syracuse
Santo
Santo Almo Almo Solarino Syracuse
Solarino
Buscemi
Pietro
Pietro Buscemi Palazzolo CO RS O MAT TE OT TI
Palazzolo
Floridia
LARGO
Acreide Floridia LARGO
Acreide
VIA VIT T O R I O V E N E TO
PORTA
PORTA
see Orty
Ac
Acateate Chiaramonte Giarratana see Ortygiagia MARINA PIAZZA
Chiaramonte
MARINA
Giarratana
map right
map right
PIAZZA
CO RS O MAT TE OT TI
Canicattini
Gulfi Gulfi Canicattini A18 A18 ARCHIMEDE VIA DE TOLOMEI
S115
ARCHIMEDE
S115
Bagni Ognina VIA MAESTRANZA ZA
Bagni
Ognina
VIA MAESTRAN
VIA DE TOLOMEI
Cassibile
Comiso
Comiso Ragusa V a l d i N o t o Cassibile Isola di O r t ygia ygia
Isola di O r t
Ragusa
Frigintini
Vittoria Frigintini S115 S115
Vittoria
Av
V a l d i N o t o
Noto Noto Avolaola F O RO I TAL ICO PA S SE G GIO A D O RN O PIAZZA V IA R O MA V IA R O MA VIA M. MINNITI VIA NIZZA VIA NIZZA
VIA M. MINNITI
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Calabernardo
Calabernardo DELDEL PIAZZA
Tellaro
Tellaro
S. GIUSEPPE
Santa Croce
Modica
Scogliti Santa Croce Modica A18 A18 DUOMO S. GIUSEPPE
DUOMO
Scogliti
F O RO I TAL ICO
Camer
Camerinaina LARGO DELLA
LARGO DELLA
Golfo di Noto GANCIA Greek Theatre, Palazzolo Acreide
Golfo di Noto
GANCIA
Marina di
Marina di Rosolini LARGO
LARGO
PA S SE G GIO A D O RN O
LU NGOMARE ORTYG
Rosolini
ARETUSA
Ragusa
Ragusa Scicli Scicli ARETUSA
Palazzolo Acreide
Ispica
Punta Secca
Punta Secca Ispica LU NGOMARE ORTYGIA IA 3
Sampieri
Donnalucata Sampieri Marzamemi MANIACE LO MAP G5
Marzamemi
Donnalucata
Pozzallo The Baroque town was originally a
Pozzallo
VIA CAST
Pachino
Pachino
MANIAC E L
Portopalo di
Portopalo di Greek colony of Syracuse, founded in
VIA CASTE L E LO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Capo Passero FREDERICO 664 BC. Next to the town, the small,
Capo Passero
FREDERICO
DI SVEVIA
Capo Passero
Punta delle
Punta delle Capo Passero DI SVEVIA
Formiche 600-seat Greek theatre remains in
Formiche
good condition, although the temples
to Persephone and Aphrodite are in
0 metres
0 kilometres 15 15 0 metres 250250 ruins. A short walk from the old city
0 kilometres
0 yards
0 miles 15 15 0 yards 250250 is I Santoni, a sanctuary dedicated to
0 miles
the fertility goddess Cybele (see p58).
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126 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Modica
4 CAROB TREES
MAP G6
Rebuilt after 1693, on and between Huge carrubi (carob trees) are a feature
two deep gorges, the city is divided in of southeast Sicily. The trees produce
two parts – Modica Alta, the upper a fruit shaped like a brown pea pod,
town, and Modica Bassa, the lower with sweet flesh and small, hard seeds.
town. Founded by the Sicels, the city The seeds are amazingly uniform and
fell under Spanish rule, when it was were the original carat used to weigh
precious stones. Carob’s sweet flesh
the capital of a quasi-autonomous can be used in pasta and sweets. Once
state ruled by Spanish barons. The called “poor man’s chocolate”, the deep,
lively Corso Umberto I, with cafés, rich flavour is now prized by chefs.
boutiques, pastry shops, numerous
palaces and a theatre, crosses
Modica Bassa. Also on this street is a Piazza Italia, the Via Nazionale
monumental flight of steps with fine passes the street where the Palazzo
Baroque statues of the Apostles that Beneventano sits on a corner, its
leads up to the post-1693 church sculpture now weathered by the
dedicated to San Pietro. Up the hill, elements. Via Nazionale continues to
Modica Alta’s Baroque Duomo di San Piazza Busacca, with views into the
Giorgio is attributed to Gagliardi. older, residential section of town, with
its narrow lanes and terracotta roofs.
Caltagirone
7
MAP F4
Named after the Arabic Cal’at Ghiran
(Castle of Vases), ceramic production
has been the main industry in this
town since prehistoric times (visit the
local Museo della Ceramica). The
Baroque town built onto the hillside
is a pleasure to wander through, with
alleyways, cafés and ceramics shops.
Pantalica Necropolis A stairway leads from the lower town
up to the church of Santa Maria del
Pantalica Necropolis
5 Monte, and each of the 142 steps is
decorated with majolica tiles.
MAP G5
Pantalica was at the heart of ancient
Hybla (known through its striking Tiled steps to Santa Maria del Monte
red-glazed pottery, examples of
which are on view in Syracuse). The
Anapo River carved a gorge through
the limestone, creating what became
Sicily’s largest necropolis; there are
more than 8,000 tombs here. A hike
through the gorge takes you past
thousands of burial sites, carved into
the cliff sides, as well as remains of
a medieval settlement, wild orchids,
rabbits, porcupines and falcons.
Scicli
6
MAP F6
Dominated by a high, rocky cliff,
Scicli was an outpost of the Spanish
barons during their long reign over
the County of Modica. From the wide




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Southeast Sicily ❮❮ 127

Grammichele
8 A DAY IN MODICA AND
RAGUSA IBLA
MAP F5
Built by the Principe di Butera after Ragusa Duomo di
Ibla
the 1693 earthquake to house the San Giuseppe
farmers of the destroyed village of SS115 SP25 Duomo di
San Giorgio
Occhiolà, there is an authentic
peasant-farmer feel here, though it
was built on a grand plan inspired by Fiume Irminio
Renaissance mathematical ideals. SP25 San Giorgio of
Concentric hexagonals radiate from SS115 Modica Alta
around the central Piazza Umberto I, Chiesa di San Pietro San
Pietro
home to private residences, palazzi, Viaduct
the Chiesa Madre and the town hall. Modica
MORNING
Spend a morning in Modica (see
p126), stopping by the church of
San Giorgio of Modica Alta on your
way into town. In Modica Bassa,
visit the equally splendid Sicilian
Baroque church of San Pietro.
Walk down the Corso Umberto I
towards Duomo di San Giorgio,
passing cafés, shops and build ings
that incorpo rate parts of pre-
earthquake structures. At Corso
Umberto I, 156, visit the biscottificio
of Donna Elvira Dolceria (see p81)
and, at 159, Dolceria Bonajuto, the
oldest chocolate factory in Sicily, to
taste and buy a wide range of
Modica’s traditional sweets.
Façade of the Cathedral, Syracuse Drive along the SS 115 to Ragusa
Syracuse
9 (see p125). On the way, you will
cross a viaduct, which is one of
the tallest of its kind in Europe,
The remains of the mighty
powerhouse of Magna Graecia make before travelling into a fertile land
up some of the most important sites of citrus groves and carob trees.
in Sicily, while the small historic In Giardini Iblei park, pick up a
map of the maze-like streets
centre of Ortygia (see p130) is one from the infor mation office. Next
of the most pleasant town centres door, have lunch at Ristorante
on the island (see pp24–7). Duomo (see p131).
Avola
0 AFTERNOON
MAP G5
The almond-growing capital of Italy, Spend the afternoon wandering
through Ragusa Ibla to see the
Avola also lends its name to one of Duomo di San Giorgio and the
the best-known red wines produced church of San Giuseppe. You can
in Sicily. Dating back to the prehistoric study the Baroque façade of the
Sicanian era, Avola was a predomi- Duomo from the lively piazza with
nantly Greco-Roman city and artifacts a treat from Gelati DiVini (Piazza
from these eras can be seen in the Duomo 20) – their ice cream is
small Roman villa and mega lithic made from Sicilian wines. But
don’t fail to walk through the
dolmen. Facing the Ionian Sea, it is a narrow side streets, where tiny
charming town with quaint Baroque alleys are connected with stair-
buildings and sandy beaches. Visit cases and tunnels, for a taste
the Cava di Cassibile nature reserve, of authentic Ragusa Ibla.
home to a rare species of orchid.
See map on pp124–5
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128 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Cave d’Ispica
Noto Antica
1 6
MAP G5
MAP G6
To the northwest of Noto lie the An ancient river carved out this gorge,
evocative ruins of the old pre- now an open-air park with excellent
earthquake town. Built on an arid, walks and climbs. The cliff sides are
limestone ridge, the site commands hollowed out to form ancient tombs
views of the Ragusan plain and of religious hermits; in one cave is a
Mount Etna. Under the hot Sicilian Byzantine fresco of the Madonna.
sun, purple thistle and sun-dried
Marzamemi
herbs perfume the air. 7
MAP G6
This little fishing village grew up
around the tonnara (tuna fishery) and
villa of the noble Villadorata family.
Modern resort features, including
popular nightclubs, have been added.
Lentini
8
MAP G4
The excavations of this small, but
important and powerful former
Cave homes, Noto Antica Greek colony are worth exploring.
Sampieri
Vendicari
2 9
MAP F6
MAP G6
The reserve’s maquis supports Clear waters and sandy beaches
thyme, rosemary and juniper; the surround what was once a small
wetlands host migratory birds. fishing village. The beaches at Punta
Depending on the season, watch for Pisciotto are accessed from a turn-
herons, egrets and flamingoes. off at the abandoned, temple-like
brick kilns called Fornace Penna.
Giarratana
3 Castello Euríalo
MAP G5
MAP G5 • Open 9am–5:30pm
The narrow streets of this tiny town 0
in the middle of the Monte Iblei are daily • Adm
lined with residences, palaces and This Greek military castle was built
churches. The typical low doors in 402 BC and is notable for its 15-m
protect against cold winter winds. (50-ft) keep. Enjoy views of the coast
from its fortifications (see p49).
Megara Iblea
4
MAP G5
Lovely and extensive coastal remains
of a town founded in 728 BC by Greek
colonists from Megara, near Athens.
Ciane River
5
MAP G5
The river’s source is said to be a
pool formed by the tears of Cyane,
who tried to prevent Persephone’s
abduction into the underworld. The
river banks are thick with papyrus.
Take a boat tour past the Olympieion. Castello Euríalo fortifications
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Southeast Sicily ❮❮ 129

Ethnographic Museums


Museo del Tempo
1
Contadino, Ragusa
MAP F5 • Palazzo Zacco, Via San Vito
158 • Open 9am–1pm Mon, Wed &
Fri, 9am–5pm Tue & Thu • Adm
Palazzo Zacco houses a collection of
historic farming and farm kitchen
tools, lace and embroidery work.
I Luoghi del Lavoro
2
Contadino, Buscemi
MAP G5 • Via Libertà 10 • Open 9am–
1pm Mon–Fri, 8am–noon Sat • Adm
Buscemi is a living museum. Eight
workrooms and living spaces,
including the home of a peasant
farmer, a smithy and a mill, have I Luoghi del Lavoro Contadino
been faithfully preserved. Museo della Civiltà
Casa-Museo di Antonino
Contadina Iblea, Floridia
3 7
Uccello, Palazzolo
MAP G5 • Piazza Umberto I, 27 • Open
Acreide 5:30–8:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm
MAP G5 • Via Machiavelli 19 • Open Mills for wheat and olives, looms and
9am–7pm Mon–Sat, 2:30–7:30pm a range of tools have been collected
Sun • Adm from farmers’ homes throughout the
Exhibits of Sicilian peasant farmers’ Iblean countryside.
handmade objects (see p51). Museo del Ricamo e
Mulino ad Acqua Santa
dello Sfilato,
4 8
Lucia, Palazzolo Acreide
Chiaramonte Gulfi
MAP G5 • Valle dei Mulini 10 • Open MAP F5 • Via Laurea 4 • Open Jun–
9am–1pm Mon–Sat • Adm Sep: 10am–1:30pm & 5–8:30pm Fri–
Antique water-powered grain mill Sun & public hols • Adm
complete with working millstones. Antique looms and instruments for
producing thread and cloth are here.
Centro di
5 A Casa do Fascitraru,
Documentazione della
Sortino
Vita Popolare Iblea, Buscemi 9
MAP G5 • Via Vittorio Emanuele MAP G5 • Via Gioberti 5 • Open by
• Open 9am–1pm Mon–Sat • Adm appt • 093 1952992 • Adm
The centre preserves 180 hours of Sortino is well known for its
film and 12,000 prints, which docu- bee keeping tradition. This
ment agricultural life. museum displays beekeeping
and honey-making implements.
Museo del Costume,
6 Museo di Civiltà
Scicli
Contadina Angelo
MAP F6 • Cortile Opera Pia 0
Carpientiera, Via Francesco Mormina Marsiano, Niscemi
Penna 65 • Open 6:30–11pm daily MAP F5 • Via Mazzini 78 • Open
(also 10:30am–12:30pm Fri–Sun) 10am–noon, 4–6pm in summer, or
The museum is dedicated to keeping on request • 093 3951722
alive the history and culture of the Displays on life in the Sicilian
Iblean mountain communities. countryside and traditional crafts.
See map on pp124–5
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130 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Ortygia Sights


Ortygia
The Greek Ghetto
1 7
The six streets between Via
MAP H5
The tiny island is a bustling mix of della Giudecca and Via GB Alagona
temples, churches, museums, open follow the Greek urban plan. The area
piazzas, seaside bars, markets and is still crowded with medieval houses
shops. It is also lively after hours. and laundry drying in the breeze.
Temple of Apollo
Fonte Aretusa
2 8
On Largo XXV Luglio are the
The mythical Arethusa (see p43)
remains of the Doric Temple of was turned into a spring and bubbles
Apollo. Built in 575 BC, this was the up on the shores of lower Ortygia. Along
first temple in Sicily with an exterior the Lungomare Alfeo, a terrace looks
stone colonnade. Two monolithic down on the spring that now feeds into
sandstone columns remain (see p25). a pond, with ducks and tall papyrus.
Duomo
Castello Maniace
3 9
One of the most spectacular
Open 1–5:15pm Mon, 8:30am–
buildings in Sicily, the dramatic 1pm Tue, Fri & Sun, 8:30am–5:15pm
Baroque façade fronts a 5th-century- Sat • Adm
BC Doric temple. It was transformed Frederick II built this castle around
into a church in the 7th century AD. 1239. It takes its name from the
Clearly visible inside and out are Byzantine George Mani akes who
monolithic Doric columns. “liberated” Syracuse during the
11th century.
Piazzetta San Rocco
4 Market
This piazza and the network of
streets around it are the hub of 0
Via del Mercato & Via
Ortygia’s nightlife. Trento • Mon–Sat am
The market bustles with local
Via Maestranza
5 housewives and vendors
Now lined with boutiques and
yelling out the merits of
restaurants, this street was where their wares. Farmers
noble families built their Baroque and fisher men heap
palaces, which often incorpo rated tomatoes, mussels,
older structures. cherries and more
into colourful
Piazza del Duomo
6 mounds to
entice local
Excavations in this square
have unearthed the remains of 8th- customers.
century-BC houses from the original
Sicel culture. Around the oblong Piazza del
piazza are the Duomo, the town hall Duomo,
(located atop an Ionic Temple to Ortygia
Artemis) and outdoor cafés.




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Southeast Sicily ❮❮ 131

Places to Eat


Majore, Chiaramonte
6
PRICE CATEGORIES Gulfi
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), MAP F5 • Via Martiri Ungheresi 12 •
taxes and extra charges. 093 2928019 • Closed Mon & July • €
“Quì si magnifica il porco” (Here the pig
€ under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70
is glorified) is the motto of this eatery,
which is also a butcher’s (see p78).
Ristorante Duomo,
1
Ragusa Ibla
MAP F5 • Via Capitano Bocchieri 31
• 093 2651265 • Closed Sun; lunch
except for Mon • €€€
Ciccio Sultano expertly chooses
local ingredients. The traditional
Ragusan food is outstanding, and
is served in an elegant dining
room (see p78).
Singola, Modica
2
MAP G6 • Via Risorgimento 88
• 093 2904807 • Closed Tue; Sat & Fresh fish at La Darsena da Ianuzzo
Sun lunch • €€
La Darsena da Ianuzzo,
Singola uses fresh ingredients in 7
season from local farms, which Syracuse
are organic when possible, in its MAP H5 • Riva Garibaldi 6, Ortygia
creative vegan dishes. There’s • 093 166104 • Closed Mon • €–€€
also a great atmosphere here. Feast on fresh fish, perfectly and
traditionally cooked, in the dining
3
Ristorante Fidone Maria, room or the waterfront terrace.
Frigintini
Accursio, Modica
MAP F5 • Via Gianforma 6 • 093 8
2901135 • No credit cards • Closed MAP G6 • Via Grimaldi 41
Mon; Sat & Sun lunch • € • 093 2941689 • Closed Mon • €€€
This family-run trattoria near Ragusa Michelin-starred restaurant offering
prepares everything in house, and creative Sicilian cuisine (see p78).
it’s all excellent (see p78). Al Molo, Donnalucata
Ristorante Crocifisso,
4 9
MAP F6 • Via Cernia 13
Noto
• 093 2937710 • Closed Mon in
MAP G5 • Via Principe Umberto 48 winter • €€
• 093 1571151 • Closed Wed • €€ Sit on a veranda facing the wharf
This family-run restaurant offers where fishermen sell their catch.
recipes such as coniglio stimperata Fish is prepared simply or in more
(sweet-and-sour rabbit), fried ricotta, elaborate Sicilian dishes.
and ravioli in pork ragù. La Cialoma, Marzamemi
Sakalleo, Scogliti
5 0
MAP G6 • Piazza Regina
Margherita 23 • 093 1841772 • Closed
MAP F5 • Piazza Cavour 12
• 093 2871688 • €€ Tue (Dec–May), Nov • €€–€€€
The menu depends upon what the Enthusiastic service, a tasty, mainly
fishing boats bring in. The animated fish-based menu and a great wine
owner may also have a glass of list are served in this romantic square
wine with you. with live music in summer (see p78).
See map on pp124–5
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Streetsmart















Colourful traditional Sicilian
painted plates













































Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Getting To and Around Sicily 134
Practical Information 136
Places to Stay 142
General Index 148
Acknowledgments 157
Phrase Book 159






















































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134 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Getting To and Around Sicily


Arriving by Air has the Aeroporto di or Villa San Giovanni and
Pantelleria and the disembark in Messina.
Sicily’s four international Aeroporto di Lampedusa Sicily has a good system
airports are situated in serving domestic traffic. of highways that reaches
Catania, Palermo, Trapani all the major cities; most
and Comiso and have Arriving by Rail highways are toll free.
excellent links to the Tolls are payable on the
nearest city centre as well Trenitalia provides a rail A20 from Buonfornello to
as to smaller vil lages. service to all major cities Messina, and the A18
Aeroporto di Catania- in Sicily, smaller towns from Messina to Catania.
Fontanarossa is 6 km around the island and Driving is on the right.
(4 miles) from the city from mainland Italy, with In the major cities such
centre, best reached by an overnight service from as Palermo or Catania it
the Alibus shuttle. Tickets Rome Termini to Palermo is advisable to park your
can be bought on board. Centrale as well as to car in a guarded parking
Major coach companies, Catania Centrale. area with a custodian,
including Ast, Sais and Although trains running especially if you have your
Etnabus, stop outside the between the larger cities belongings in the car. If
arrivals hall and provide are fast, service to and you are parking your car
excellent links to out-of- from smaller towns can on the street make sure
town destinations. Taxis be painfully slow. They that there are no parking
into town start at €20. are, however, more com- meters for that zone,
Palermo’s Aeroporto fortable than coaches, otherwise you will receive
Falcone-Borsellino is and in addition offer views a parking fine.
roughly 35 km (22 miles) of some of the prettiest
from the city centre. The land scapes in Sicily. Arriving by Boat
Prestia e Comandè bus Before you board the
service will take you to train your ticket must be Ferry and hydrofoil
the centre in 30 minutes; stamped with the time at services arrive at the
tickets can be purchased the obliteratrice. These main ports of Palermo,
online or on board. Taxis white and green machines Catania, Messina, Trapani
to the centre start at €40. are found on the platform and Milazzo. Siremar,
Two trains run between or near the ticket booth. SNAV and Tirrenia
the airport and Palermo’s Failure to get your ticket manage the bulk of the
Stazione Centrale every stamped will result in a services to Sicily from
hour and the journey fine. If travelling on the Naples, while Caronte
takes 60 minutes. Messina-Palermo or e Tourist handles the
The west coast of Sicily Syracuse-Messina lines service from Calabria.
is served by Aeroporto remember to make sure Long-distance ferry
di Trapani-Birgi. A that the ticket does not services from
regular shuttle service also require you to get Civitavecchia (the port
into the city centre is run a supplemento rapido – a of Rome), Livorno and
by Ast, while taxis start surcharge that is applied Genoa are operated by
at €30. to some express trains. Grandi Navi Veloci, and
The southeast is served The validity of tickets is Tirrenia and Virtu Ferries
by the Aeroporto Pio usually two to six hours runs a service to Catania
La Torre in Comiso. Bus depending on the length from Malta.
company Tumino has a of the journey.
service to Ragusa, with Arriving by Coach
stops in towns along the Arriving by Road
way. Ast and Etnabus run Both Sais and Etnabus
a good service to other If you plan to arrive by offer a long-distance bus
destinations in the south- road you will need to drive service to Sicily from
east. Taxis to Ragusa your vehicle onto a ferry Milan, Perugia and
start at €30. Sicily also either at Reggio Calabria Rome. There are stops




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Getting To and Around Sicily ❮❮ 135


to all major Sicilian cities Getting Around Getting Around
and towns, but services by Scooter on Foot
are not usually direct,
so you will need to A scooter offers more The best way to take in
change buses once or freedom than a car, but it a city is usually on foot
twice along the way. can take strong nerves to because walking provides
Travelling by coach seems drive one in cities like the opportunity to dis-
to be the preference for Palermo or Catania, with cover a wealth of unex-
many Sicilians, especially their hair-raising traffic. pected, hidden-away
com muters and students, If you’re up to it, Rental sights. However, it is also
as it connects big cities Motor Bike offers good worth bearing in mind
with remote towns and deals in major cities. that there can be a lot of
villages that are not ground to cover: Palermo
served by rail. Sais and Getting Around has a historical city centre
Etnabus offer a cost- by Bicycle that covers 2.5 sq km
effective alternative to (1 sq mile), and many
driving, especially for day BiciPa, the bike-sharing of the archaeological
trips out of town. Unlike programme in Palermo, sights involve uphill
the rail service, they apply includes 50 drop-off climbs. Pace yourself
discounts to same-day points around the city. accordingly, and wear
return tickets. Bed and breakfasts often foot wear that is both
rent bikes for a small fee. sturdy and comfortable.
Getting Around
by Taxi DIRECTORY
Taxis are almost always ARRIVING BY AIR Tumino
white with the “Taxi” sign Aeroporto di ∑ tuminobus.it
on top. When you arrive Catania-Fontanarossa ARRIVING BY RAIL
at the airport always take ∑ aeroporto.catania.it
a taxi from the rank and Aeroporto Falcone- Trenitalia
ignore shady types who Borsellino ∑ Trenitalia.it
shout “taxi” in your face – ∑ gesap.it ARRIVING BY BOAT
these are drivers without Aeroporto di
taxi licences. Lampedusa Caronte e Tourist
Taxis are available in ∑ aeroportodi ∑ carontetourist.it
all airports and in city lampedusa.com Grandi Navi Veloci
centres, but unlike New Aeroporto di Pantelleria gnv.it
York or London, you can ∑ aeroportodi Siremar
only hail one if you go to pantelleria.it ∑ siremar.it
the nearest rank or phone Aeroporto Pio La Torre
one. Expect additions to ∑ aeroportodicomiso.eu SNAV
the base price such as ∑ snav.it
night, weekend and holi- Aeroporto di Tirrenia
day surcharges, and per Trapani-Birgi ∑ Tirrenia.it
∑ airgest.it
item of luggage. Always Virtu Ferries
try to set the price before Alibus ∑ virtuferries.com
travelling to avoid sur- ∑ sitabus.it
prises. If you prefer a set Ast GETTING AROUND
fare it is a good idea to ∑ aziendasiciliana BY SCOOTER
make a booking through trasporti.it Rental Motor Bike
the designated taxi desks Etnabus ∑ rentalmotorbike.com
at arrivals. ∑ etnatrasporti.it
Although tipping taxi Prestia e Comandè GETTING AROUND
drivers is not required, ∑ prestiaecomande.it BY BICYCLE
if you have received good BiciPa
service, you can leave a Sais ∑ bicipa.it
∑ saisautolinee.it
few euros or 10 per cent
of the fare.





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136 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Practical Information


Passports and Visas Travel Safety Advice Italy, and there are few
health hazards in Sicily.
Visitors from outside the Visitors can get up­to­date During summer, you
European Economic Area travel safety information should wear a hat and
(EEA), European Union from the UK Foreign and sunscreen, stay out of the
(EU) and Switzerland Commonwealth Office, sun at peak times, and
need a valid passport to the US Department of drink plenty of fluids. Tap
travel to Italy, as do UK State and the Australian water is fine but you may
visitors. Swiss, EEA and Department of Foreign prefer the taste of bottled
EU nationals can use Affairs and Trade. water. Mosquitoes can
identity cards instead. be bothersome: spray
Visitors from Canada, the Travel Insurance exposed skin with repel­
US, Australia and New lent in the evenings and
Zealand can stay for up to It is advisable to take out keep windows closed
90 days without a visa, as insurance for medical when the lights are on in
long as their passport is emergencies, including your room. If bitten, ask
valid for 6 months beyond repatriation, cancellations a pharmacist for an anti­
the date of entry. A visa is or delays, theft or loss of histamine cream such as
necessary for longer stays belongings. Some of Fargan or Polaramin.
and must be obtained in these are included with When swimming in the
advance from the Italian your airline ticket so sea it’s wise to wear a
embassy (Schengen visas check when you book. jellyfish repellent; if stung
are valid). All other visi­ Italy has a reciprocal wash the area with sea
tors need valid pass ports health agreement with water and use a pain killer.
and visas. For details, other EU countries, and Pharmacies are marked
check the Ministero degli EU citizens are entitled with a green cross and
Esteri website. to free emergency treat­ sell common drugs,
The UK and US have ment if they are holders without a pres crip tion.
a consular presence in of a valid European Parafarmacie have a blue
Palermo, while most Health Insurance Card or red cross and sell
other countries, including (EHIC). However, visitors over­the­counter
Australia, have embas­ have to pay for any pres­ medicines, toiletries
sies in Rome. criptions upfront. Italy has and baby formula, and
a reciprocal agreement are open on Saturdays.
Customs and with Australian Medicare If you run out of your
Immigration as well, but all other regular medicine,
nationals should check pharma cists may sell
For EU citizens there are before travelling. replace ments, if you
no limits on most goods have the packaging.
taken in or out of Italy, as Health Medical and first aid
long as they are for per­ stations known as the
sonal use only. Exceptions Hospitals with accident Guardia Medica Turistica
include firearms and and emergency depart­ set up at seaside resorts
weapons, endangered ments include Palermo’s in Palermo and Catania
species and some types Villa Sofia, Policlinico and work 24 hours a day.
of food and plants. Cash Paolo Giaccone and
amounts over €10,000 Ospedale Civico, and Personal Security
taken into or out of the Catania’s Ospedale
EU must be declared. Garibaldi and Ospedale Sicily is a relatively safe
Non­EU residents can Cannizzaro. Hotels will place to visit, and even in
claim back sales tax (VAT) also be able to suggest big cities such as Palermo
on purchases over €155; English­speaking doctors or Catania, violence is
have your Tax Free forms and dentists. rare. However, it is always
from the store ready at Vaccinations are not good to be aware of your
the airport. necessary when visiting surroundings at all times.




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Practical Information ❮❮ 137


During the day, leave crowded buses and at the fire brigade as well
valuables and documents popular tourist sites. Be as for the ambulance.
at the hotel, and use a firm if approached and All calls to police and
cross-body bag. At night, asked for money. emergency services are
walk only in well-lit areas, Italy has two police free, whether from land-
and if feeling unsure, call forces. The Carabinieri lines, mobile phones or
a taxi to get back to the are the military branch pay phones.
hotel. At the beach, do not and have major stations Women, especially solo
leave your belongings in Catania‘s Piazza Verga travellers, can expect to
unattended while you’re and Palermo’s Piazza attract attention, partic-
out swimming. Verdi. The Polizia di Stato ularly in smaller towns.
Drinking in excess is are the civil branch and Open staring, cat calls
generally frowned upon, have their headquarters and verbal flirtation are
although parts of the (questura) in Palermo’s common and annoying
historic centre such as Piazza della Vittoria and although harmless, and
La Vucciria in Palermo or Catania’s Piazza Santa instances of assault are
Porta Uzeda in Catania Nicolella. Crimes can be very rare. If you do find
can get rowdy at night. reported to either, and yourself in a threatening
Though larger cities are both can issue crime or situation, be firm and
generally well policed, loss reports (denuncia di scream “aiuto!” (help) if
pickpocketing is quite furto o smarrimento). needed to fend off a
common, especially on There are hotlines for would-be assailant.
DIRECTORY
PASSPORTS AND TRAVEL INSURANCE Villa Sofia, Palermo
VISAS Australian Medicare Piazza Salerno 1
Australian Embassy ∑ humanservices.gov.au/ § 091 7801111
Via Bosio Antonio 5, customer/dhs/medicare PERSONAL SECURITY
Rome European Health
∑ italy.embassy.gov.au Ambulance
Insurance Card (EHIC) § 118
British Honorary ∑ nhs.uk/ehic
Consulate Carabinieri
c/o S Tagliavia & Co, HEALTH § 112
∑ carabinieri.it
Via Cavour 117, Palermo Guardia Medica Turistica,
∑ ukinitaly.fco.gov.uk Carabinieri, Catania
Catania
Ministero degli Esteri Viale Kennedy Piazza Verga 8
∑ vistoperitalia.esteri.it/ § 335 530 3085 § 095 537999
∑ carabinieri.it
home/en
Guardia Medica Turistica,
US Consular Agency Palermo Carabinieri, Palermo
Via Vaccarini 1, Palermo Via Regina Elena 73/75 Piazza G Verdi
§ 091 587533
∑ it.usembassy.gov/ § 091 6841264 ∑ carabinieri.it
embassy-consulates/
naples/ Ospedale Cannizzaro, Fire Brigade
Catania § 115
TRAVEL SAFETY Via Messina 829
ADVICE § 095 7261111 Polizia di Stato
§ 113
Australian Department Ospedale Civico, Palermo ∑ poliziadistato.it
of Foreign Affairs and Piazza Nicola Leotta 4 Polizia di Stato
Trade § 091 6661111 Questura, Catania
∑ dfat.gov.au Ospedale Garibaldi,
∑ smartraveller.gov.au Catania Piazza Santa Nicolella 8
§ 095 7367111
UK Foreign and Via Palermo 636 ∑ poliziadistato.it
Commonwealth Office § 095 7591111 Polizia di Stato
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel- Policlinico Paolo Questura, Palermo
advice Giaccone, Palermo Piazza della Vittoria 8
US Department of State Via del Vespro 129 § 091 210111
∑ travel.state.gov § 091 6551111 ∑ poliziadistato.it
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Disabled Travellers preloaded with euros, If you want to use a public
fixing the exchange rate telephone to make a call,
Sicily is not yet entirely before you leave, and then you will need to purchase
accessible to disabled used in the same way as a phone card (scheda
travellers because con­ a debit card. The maxi­ telefonica) from a news­
servation laws prevent mum daily withdrawal agent or tobacconist.
alterations to its many old limit is usually €700. Several kinds of phone
buildings, although some Thomas Cook offers card are available for
have had wheelchair­ these, as do most banks. international calls – the
accessible ramps added. Many shops accept chip best value is the Carta
Major museums and and pin cards, and almost Insieme (€5).
galleries have disabled all hotels and restaurants
facilities and many hotels now accept credit cards. Postal Services
have converted a few
rooms to be accessible. Internet and The Italian postal system,
For the most part, Telephone Poste Italiane, can be
public trans port is appallingly slow. If you
wheelchair accessible. Fast­speed Internet and need to use it, avoid
For more information free Wi­Fi is available in sending registered mail
and to plan your trip, many cafés and hotels as it tends to accumulate
visit the Sicilia across Sicily; occasionally at the collection point
Accessibile website. the password will be before being sent on. If
posted for all patrons to speed is of the essence
Currency and see, or you can ask the for destinations within
Banking proprietor. Some cities Italy, use the postal sys­
also provide free Wi­Fi, tem’s courier service,
Italy is among the 19 with all of the hotspots Paccocelere, or for inter­
European countries using clearly marked. national destinations use
the euro (€), which is European and Asian a private courier such as
divided into 100 cents. mobile phones work in DHL or UPS.
Banknotes come in deno­ Italy, but Americans will Stamps (francobolli) can
minations of €5, €10, need a triband phone. be purchased at post
€20, €50, €100, €200 and Your home provider will offices and tobacconists,
€500. Coins are 1c, 2c, 5c, have roaming options, and occasionally at shops
10c, 20c, 50c, €1 and €2. but check rates carefully selling postcards.
The easiest way of before you leave. A
getting cash is with a cheaper alternative may Newspapers and
debit card from a cash be to purchase an Italian Radio
machine (ATM), which is SIM card, available at all
known as a Bancomat in major phone shops. For information about
Italy. Most debit cards will However, you will need Sicilian news in English
allow a maximum daily to show ID to buy one. pick up a copy of Times
withdrawal of €250. Bank The main Italian mobile of Sicily, also available
branches are usually operators are Vodafone, online. Some social media
open 8:30am–1:30pm TIM, 3 and Wind. You can sites have groups devoted
Monday to Friday and buy rechargeable SIM to expat life in Sicily and
then again for an hour cards for €10, including are invaluable resources
at some point between €5 of credit. They can be of information.
2:30pm and 4pm, though topped up at tobacconists International magazines
many might not be open with a SISAL terminal and newspapers are easy
in the afternoon before a (used for playing lottery to find in Palermo, but
major holiday. Banks are games), by buying a they can be expensive
also closed the feast day scratch card (from news­ and may well be out of
of a town’s patron saint. agents and tobacconists) date, meaning that online
Pre­paid currency cards or in the phone company’s news sources are far
(cash passports) are a own shops. Some large better value. For general
secure way of carrying chain super markets also Italian news in English try
money. They can be sell top­up cards. the Life In Italy website.




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Opening Hours Electrical then from September to
Appliances October. The majority of
The days when Sicily’s the shops and restaurants
sights shut down for The electricity supply in in the larger cities are
riposo (the long lunch Italy is 220 volts. Italian closed throughout August
break), or even the entire plugs come with two and because this is when local
afternoon, are fast three round pins, so an residents head off to the
becoming history, as is adaptor is sometimes beaches or mountains to
the custom of shutting necessary – ask for one escape the searing heat.
down on Sundays – a that will fit both types
recent law states that of plug socket. Visitor Information
businesses can now stay
open both during lunch­ Driving Visitor information offices
time and on Sundays. can be found at all four
Most major museums To hire a car in Italy you airports in Sicily, where
and sights stay open all generally need to be over staff can be helpful with
day, as do an increasing 18 years old and have giving suggestions on
number of supermarkets held a full driving licence where to stay; they will
and international chain for at least one year. The also hand out as many
stores, with some shops law requires all car­hire free maps as you need.
in Palermo staying open companies to restrict There are several
around the clock. vehicle choice according tourist information points
Shops, churches and to the number of years that are dotted around
other businesses that still you’ve had a licence, so Palermo and Catania,
follow tradition will usu­ don’t expect to be able to often designated with an
ally open at 8am or 9am, hire a sports car if you’ve “I”; in smaller cities
close at 12:30 or 1pm, been driving for less than tourist information offices
open again at 3pm or three years. are often called Pro Loco.
4pm (or 5pm in summer), When you pick up the
and close at some point vehicle, you will need to DIRECTORY
between 6pm and 8pm. show your passport, a
Many museums, art credit card from which to DISABLED
galleries and archaeo­ pay the security deposit TRAVELLERS
logical sites are closed on and an IDP (International Sicilia Accessibile
Monday. Their opening Driving Permit), which is ∑ siciliaccessibile.it
times vary widely – always required by Italian law. CURRENCY AND
check before starting out. Check whether the car­ BANKING
Last admission to many hire fee include insurance. Thomas Cook
visitor attractions is an ∑ thomascook.com/
hour before closing time. Weather travel-money/
travel-money-card
Time Difference Sicily has a typical
Mediterranean climate. POSTAL SERVICES
Italy operates on Central The summer heat can DHL
European Time (CET), an be oppressive in inland ∑ dhl.it
hour ahead of Greenwich towns, with cooler Poste Italiane
Mean Time (GMT), 6 hours temperatures in the ∑ poste.it
ahead of Eastern Standard mountains. Winters are UPS
Time (EST), 9 hours ahead mild, but snowfall can be ∑ ups.com
of Pacific Standard Time copious in mountainous
(PST) and 9 hours behind areas. Spring’s middle NEWSPAPERS
Australian Eastern ground keeps hotels AND RADIO
Standard Time (AEST). booked, although it can Life In Italy
The clock moves forward also be very blustery; ∑ lifeinitaly.com/
1 hour during Daylight autumn is also popular, Times of Sicily
Saving Time from the last but prone to downpours. ∑ timesofsicily.com
Sunday in March to the High season stretches
last Sunday in October. from Easter to July and






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Trips and Tours break if poorly packed. Dining
Most ceramic shops ship
Regardless of whether overseas, though prices Eating out is a way of life
you are a first-time visitor can be exorbitant. Taking in Sicily, and families
or a seasoned traveller, a few bottles of wine and often meet at restaurants
seeing all the sights the olive oil is also a good for their Sunday meals.
island has to offer in a idea – producers will ship The traditional meal
short amount of time can to anywhere. High street consists of an antipasto
be a daunting experience. and designer fashion is (starter), primo (pasta,
To maximise your time rarely cheaper than back rice or soup), secondo
and have a memorable home, but fabulous bar- (meat or fish), contorno
stay, put your trip in the gains can be found in (vegetable) and dolce
hands of a local tour stock houses and outlets (dessert), and until
company, who will have such as Sicilia Outlet recently, tourists ordering
decades of experience Village near Enna, which only a salad would be
in devising practicable, sells last season’s over- treated with disdain. But
personalized guided stock and seconds. Sales international eating habits
tours, depending on the in Sicily run from January have arrived, and most
length of your visit. They to March and again from places – espe cially in the
can also arrange extras July to September. larger cities – no longer
such as transport, airport Haggling is expected in expect diners to spend
transfers and lodgings. markets, but hardly ever two hours over a five-
Sicilytravel is a leading in shops, and never in course meal. Menus have
company in planning day high-end shops or in freed up, and many
excursions as well as department stores. When places advertise them-
multiday tours all over haggling, be ready to go selves as serving “easy
the island. It will also through the full ritual, food”, meaning that the
provide custom tours with including acting less and menus are designed for
the focus on special- less interested, while the diners to choose from,
interest subjects such as merchant acts ever more whatever the time of day.
genealogical research, offended and claims he Only traditional
visiting the sites of the can go no lower. restaurants now open
Allied landing, or tracing Italy’s Value Added Tax solely at lunch and dinner.
the Jewish history of (VAT) is a sales tax already Waiters generally expect
Sicily. Sunway offers added on to the sticker you to linger over your
tours and excursions to price of every item. If you meal, and won’t rush you.
renowned sights and are a non-EU resident Most restaurants
little-known jewels off the and spend more than charge for bread and
beaten track that only an €155 in a single shop, you cover, and if the menu
insider would be aware of, can get the tax refunded. says “servizio incluso”, it
as well as specialized Ask the store to help you means the service charge
trips on local gastronomy fill out the forms, then is built in. If not, tip a
or folklore. Sunway is also take these along with the discretionary 10 per cent.
one of the very few com- receipts to the customs Jacket and tie are almost
panies that offer guided office at the airport of the never required.
tours of the Aeolian last EU country you’ll be
Islands. Besides English, visiting to complete the Where to Stay
both companies will offer paperwork. Your refund
tours in other languages, will be posted but it may Sicily has a great range
if requested. take months. Stores with of memorable places at
signs saying “Tax-Free which to stay – opulent
Shopping Shopping for Tourists” hotels, chic boutique
speed up the process, hideaways and a variety
Ceramics are the best giving you a cheque for of B&Bs, apart ments
thing to purchase in Sicily, the customs office to and hostels.
but bringing them home stamp, which you redeem Location is hugely
can be a problem as at the airport’s Tax-Free important: staying in a
they’re heavy and can Shopping desk. city centre can put all




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conveniences at your idea to check whether that has been quoted to
fingertips, but can often break fast is included in you. The tax is charged for
be expensive. Make sure the rate, and if guests a maximum of 10 nights.
you do your homework on are allowed the use of It’s also important to keep
the area around the hotel the kitchen. a vigilant eye out for hid-
before booking: what can Sites such as Airbnb den costs: some hotels
be described as an “edgy have made it easy for still charge for Wi-Fi,
neighbourhood” may owners to offer their although it is worth using
mean insalubrious home for short holiday your powers of persuasion
and noisy. Staying at an rentals, whether that is to get it waived. Making a
agriturismo is peaceful, a simple, functional city- phone call from a hotel
but more often than not centre crash-pad or a room is always expensive,
you will need a vehicle glamorous apartment but phone cards usually
to go into town. Some on the piano nobile of a work from hotels. If the
resort hotels are closed historic palazzo. The hotel has blocked the
in the winter, but those Thinking Traveller web- free phone number, there
that are open can be site is a good resource for will generally be a local
real bargains in the off- those wanting to rent out access number on the
season months. a whole villa. Several phone card as well that
Based on a checklist of religious organizations can be used. Most B&Bs
facilities, Italian hotels are also offer accommo da- do not have phones for
given an official rating of tion, not solely to the guest use, although some
between one and five religious. These may, will offer their guests
stars. However, these star however, have a curfew rechargeable SIM cards.
ratings are no guide to at night and be open only
the other attractions of a to one gender. Prices are DIRECTORY
hotel, such as the decor not necessarily low, but
or the friendliness of staff. they can be a good option TRIPS AND TOURS
Popular websites such as for anyone nervous about Sicily Travel
TripAdvisor and Booking. travelling alone. ∑ sicilytravel.net
com can help with sug- § 360 397 9930
gestions, reviews and Rates and Booking Sunway
actual bookings. ∑ sunway.it
Over the past decade, Booking sites and hotel § 347 185 6950
since a law was passed to websites often offer huge SHOPPING
allow ordinary people to discounts on standard Sicilia Outlet Village
offer bed-and-breakfast rates as it is common ∑ siciliaoutletvillage.
faci lities in their homes, for prices to be adjusted com
hundreds of B&Bs have according to demand. The
opened up everywhere: best deals are usually WHERE TO STAY
BBPlanet, Hotels.com found online and well in Airbnb
and the Associazione advance. Smaller hotels’ ∑ airbnb.it
Nazionale Bed and websites are not always Associazione
Breakfast Italiani will secure, and it is unwise to Nazionale Bed and
help you find and book email credit card details Breakfast Italiani
one. The nicest ones offer to them – finalise the ∑ anbbi.it
excellent value for money, booking over the phone. BBPlanet
with charming, helpful All hotels in major ∑ bbplanet.com
owners and fan tastic tourist destinations on Booking.com
breakfasts. Many of the island (from five-star ∑ booking.com
these establishments hotels and flats to rented Hotels.com
do not have staff in the rooms and even camp- ∑ it.hotels.com
same building, which sites) are by law obliged The Thinking Traveller
may not necessarily be a to add the city tourist tax ∑ thethinking
disad vantage, but be sure to their rates; this can be traveller.com
to ask how to contact the anything from €1 to €7 TripAdvisor
owner should the need per night so always check ∑ tripadvisor.com
arise. It’s also a good if it is included in the rate






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Places to Stay


PRICE CATEGORIES grand villa at the end
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast of the 19th century on
if included), taxes and extra charges. the slopes of Monte
Pellegrino. Dine on the
€ under €100 €€ €100–€200 €€€ over €200 terraces overlooking
the sea.
Luxury Hotels Excelsior Palace
Hotel, Taormina El Jebel, Taormina
Eremo della MAP H3 • Via Toselli 8 MAP H3 • Salita Ciampoli
Giubiliana, Ragusa • 094 223975 • www. 9 • 094 2625494 • www.
MAP F5 • Contrada da excelsiorpalacetaormina. hoteleljebel.com • €€€
Giubiliana • 093 2669119 it • €€€ Hidden away off Corso
• Dis. access • www. A four-star hotel known Umberto, El Jebel is an
eremodellagiubiliana.it for its views of Etna, its exquisite five-star hotel
• €€ gardens and swim ming with eclectic interiors
This elegant 15th-century pool are on a ridge over- and a rooftop lounge
monastic building has looking the Bay of Naxos. boasting sweeping
13 rooms, six suites and views over the ocean.
five cottages, meaning Grand Hotel Baia The on-site restaurant,
that each of its guests Verde, Catania Ciampoli, is one of
receives attentive service. MAP G4 • Via Angelo Taormina’s best.
Rooms, public areas and Musco 8/10, Aci Castello
grounds are authentically • 095 491522 • www. San Domenico
restored with wood and baiaverde.it • €€€ Palace, Taormina
iron fur nishings, fountains The 147 rooms and 10 MAP H3 • Piazza San
and stone courtyards. suites are all reno vated, Domenico 5 • 094
with living areas and a 2613111 • Dis. access
Locanda Don terrace. They sur round • www.san-domenico-
Serafino, Ragusa the palm-filled pool area palace.com • €€€
Ibla and look out to sea. Built as a monastery in
MAP F5 • Via XI Febbraio the 1400s, San Domenico
15 • 093 2220065 Grand Hotel Timeo & Palace now houses 105
• www.locandadon Villa Flora, Taormina rooms and offers views
serafino.it • €€ MAP H3 • Via Teatro of the bay and Mount
Some of this hotel’s 12 Greco 59 • 094 26270200 Etna, a fitness room,
rooms are carved out • www.belmond.com/it/ beauty area, a pool
of the rocky cliffside to grand-hotel-timeo- and gym.
which Ibla clings. The taormina • €€€
hotel offers distinctive Located in the palm- and Terre di Vendicari,
rooms and a private lido bougainvillea-covered Noto
at Marina di Ragusa. hillside below Taormina’s MAP G5 • Contrada
ancient Greek theatre. The Vaddeddi • 346 359 3845
La Moresca Maison 70 rooms are in Baroque • www.terredivendicari.it
de Charme, Marina style. The restaurant and • €€€
di Ragusa bar occupy terraces with There are just four rooms,
MAP F6 • Via Dandolo 63 amazing views. in calming white and
• 093 2239495 • www. ochre, in these luxu riously
lamorescahotel.com • €€ Grand Hotel Villa renovated farm buildings.
This gorgeous neo-Gothic Igiea, Palermo Nestle into one of the
building, a few metres MAP L2 • Salita Belmonte four-poster beds on the
from the sea, has plush 43 • 091 6312111 • Dis. terrace and follow the
rooms with period pieces. access • www.villa-igiea. line of the swim ming
Offers a superb buffet com • €€€ pool out to the sea on
breakfast. Open April Art Nouveau architect the horizon. Service
to November. Ernesto Basile built this is attentive.




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Places to Stay ❮❮ 143


Historic Hotels installation piece created Il Principe Hotel,
by a modern artist. Each Catania
Baglio Spanò, has a seafront terrace. MAP G4 • Via Alessi
Petrosino, near 20/26 • 095 2500345
Marsala Foresteria Baglio • www.ilprincipehotel.
MAP B3 • Contrada della Luna, Agrigento com • €€
Triglia Scaletta • 348 882 MAP D4 • Via S A Guastella This carefully renovated
2095 • www.bagliospano. 1C, Valle dei Templi • 092 Baroque-style building is
com • € 2511061 • www.baglio set in the historic heart
A gorgeous country house dellaluna.com • €€ of Catania. Rooms offer
from the 1800s set in Guests are made to feel every modern comfort
citrus groves, with six at home in this restored and, for additional luxury,
traditionally decorated 13th-century watch-tower there is a Turkish bath
rooms and a restaurant and 18th-century villa. The for guests to enjoy.
serving excellent food. bright central courtyard
here leads onto terraces Hotel L’Ariana,
Grand Hotel et des shaded by olive and fruit Rinella, Salina
Palmes, Palermo trees with views out to MAP G1 • Via Rotabile 11
MAP L3 • Via Roma 398 Agrigento’s famed temples • 090 9809075 • www.
• 091 6028111 • Dis. (see pp32–5). Rooms hotelariana.it • €€€
access • www.hotel- on the upper level are This whimsical villa was
despalmes.it • € furnished with antiques. built onto the rocks above
Built in the mid-1800s the tiny port of Rinella at
and later con verted to Art Giardino sul Duomo, the turn of the 20th cen-
Nouveau style, this hotel Ragusa tury and has long been in
has columned, marbled MAP F5 • Via Capitano the same family. Rooms
public spaces and a gym. Bocchieri 24 • 093 2682 are simple, and the best
157 • Dis. access • www. ones are those on the first
Hotel Relais Modica giardinosulduomo.it floor, which open onto a
MAP G6 • Via Tommaso • €€ terrace with great views.
Campailla 99 • 093 2754 This historic building,
451 • www.hotelrelais set in fine gardens, offers Villa Athena,
modica.it • € lovely views over Ragusa’s Agrigento
This renovated palazzo cathedral and town centre MAP D4 • Via Passeggiata
offers lovely views of to the hills and valleys Archeologica 33 • 092
Modica, a roof garden beyond. The 12 large 2596288 • www.hotel
and family rooms. The rooms are elegant. villaathena.it • €€€
service is friendly. A hotel and spa within the
Hotel Belvedere, Valley of the Temples, it
Massimo Plaza, Taormina offers grand rooms, some
Palermo MAP H3 • Via Bagnoli with private ter races, and
MAP L4 • Via Maqueda Croci 79 • 094 223791 is the only place on the
437 • 091 325657 • www. • www.villabelvedere.it island where you can swim
massimoplazahotel.com • € • €€ and play tennis with the
A renovated palazzo with This was built as a grand temples as a backdrop.
soundproofed rooms and hotel on Taormina’s hill-
views of the piazza. The side in 1902. Renovations Resort Hotels
stairs are steep and there have modernized the
is no lift. On-site parking. guest rooms without Approdo di Ulisse,
losing their original Favignana
Atelier sul Mare, charm (most have good MAP A3 • C/da
Castel di Tusa views). The Belvedere is Calagrande • 092 3921
MAP E2 • Via Cesare also noted for its pleasant 125 • www.aurum
Battisti 4 • 092 1334295 gardens with citrus and hotel.it • €€
• www.ateliersulmare.it palm trees and serves A tastefully designed
• €€ lunches beside the pool. resort of whitewashed
Of the 40 rooms here, 20 The hotel is open from bungalows and cottages
are Art Rooms, each an March to November. by a series of tiny caves






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144 ❯❯ Streetsmart


on the west side of the have a private terrace Verdura Resort,
island. Pool, tennis and with views of the bay. Sciacca
diving available. MAP C4 • SS 115,
Capofaro Malvasia Km 131 • 092 5998001
La Dimora di & Resort, Salina • Dis. access • www.
Spartivento, Ragusa MAP G1 • Via Faro 3 roccofortehotels.com/
MAP F5 • SS 115, Km 323 • 090 9844330 • www. hotels-and-resorts/
• 093 21865377 • www. capofaro.it • €€€ verdura-resort
dimoradispartivento.it • €€ Eighteen luxurious rooms • €€€
In a rural setting with with balconies open onto A top-class resort with
views over the Hyblean sea views at the Tasca its own stretch of coast-
plateau and Modica to the d’Almerita family’s five- line, three golf courses
sea, this hotel has 16 big, star resort. White washed and a spa. Its location
comfortable rooms and a buildings are set off by makes it suitable for
pool with a small waterfall. splashes of bougainvillea. trips to Agrigento
and Selinunte.
Kalura Hotel, Cefalù Grand Hotel
MAP E2 • Via Vincenzo Minareto, Syracuse Comfortable Hotels
Cavallaro 13 • 092 1421 MAP H5 • Via del Faro
354 • www.hotel-kalura. Massolivieri 26 • 093 Albergo Maccotta,
com • €€ 1721222 • www.grand Trapani
A modern hotel with 72 hotelminareto.it • €€€ MAP B2 • Via Degli
rooms and a range of In the natural Plemmirio Argentieri 4 • 092 328418
facilities, including a reserve, this resort has a • www.albergo
pool, private beach, spa, pools, private beach maccotta.it • €
billiard tables, tennis and two res tau rants. The Albergo Maccotta
courts and mountain boasts an excellent loca-
bikes. Sailing and horse Hotel Villa Sant’ tion in Trapani’s historic
riding trips can also be Andrea, Taormina centre. Rooms are basic
organized. Kalura Hotel is MAP H3 • Via Nazionale and clean.
open from mid-March to 137, Taormina Mare
mid-November. • 094 26271200 • Closed Centrale Palace
Oct–Apr • www.hotel Hotel, Palermo
Il Piccolo Etna Golf villasantandrea.com MAP L5 • Via Vittorio
Hotel & Resort, • €€€ Emanuele 327 • 091 336
Castiglione di Sicilia The rooms here have 666 • Dis. access • www.
MAP G3 • SS 120, Km 200 terraces, offering eurostarhotels.co.uk • €
• 094 2986384 • www. wonderful sea views, An elegant, restored
ilpiccoloetnagolfresort. and are set in a restored palazzo with luxurious
com • €€ 19th-century villa marble-clad public areas.
This resort is located beneath Monte Tauro. Guests can enjoy roman-
on the slopes of Mount tic dinners and splendid
Etna with an 18-hole Raya, Panarea views on the roof terrace.
golf course, pool, tennis MAP G1 • Via San Pietro
courts, gym and spa. • 090 983013 • Closed Hotel Il Barocco,
Nov–Mar • www. Ragusa Ibla
Atlantis Bay, hotelraya.it • €€€ MAP F5 • Via Santa Maria
Taormina Mare This place is a study in La Nuova 1 • 093 2663
MAP H3 • Via Nazionale relaxation, where white- 105 • www.ilbarocco.it
161 • 094 2618011 washed buildings with • €
• www.atlantisbay.it large terraces look Rooms are comfortable
• €€€ out to the sea. There at this centrally located
A luxurious hotel with is a res taurant right hotel, the staff are helpful,
full-service spa and over the water serving parking is available and
private beach. The pool fresh fish dinners on a there is a breakfast room
and terrace for dining terrace lit with oil lamps. on site. This is a great
are at the water’s edge Children under 12 are base for exploring
and the elegant rooms not allowed. southeast Sicily.




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetsmart – hotels, 8.25pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
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Date 19 February 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Places to Stay ❮❮ 145


Hotel Miramare, renovated palazzo just this hotel on the Ortygia
Selinunte steps from one of the seafront. The hotel has
MAP B4 • Via Pigafetta 2 city’s daily markets and its own wine bar.
• 092 446666 • Dis. the chic Via Etnea. Helpful
access • www.hotel staff, an elegant bar and Relais Antiche
miramareselinunte.it • € an on­site restaurant. Saline, Paceco
The charming Miramare There is parking available, MAP B2 • Via Gerdi,
hotel over looks the but book in advance. Località Nubia • 092 386
Mediterranean sea, and 8042 • Inx.relaisantiche
affords a breathtaking Hotel Aegusa, saline.it/site • €€€
view of the nearby Favignana A renovated historic
Acropolis of Selinute. MAP A3 • Via Garibaldi building with spacious
The hotel has its own 11 • 092 3921638 • Dis. rooms offering views over
private beach, piano bar access • www.aegusa the Egadi Islands and the
and pizzeria restaurant. It hotel.it • €€ saltpans of Trapani’s coast.
also provides WiFi and Book a stay here for its There are also a pool area,
private parking. modern rooms, a terrace an outdoor spa with a
and a small garden res­ Finnish sauna and a good
Hotel Pomara, San taurant, all tucked away restaurant. Transport to
Michele di Ganzaria in Favignana town. Trapani upon request.
MAP F4 • Via Vittorio
Veneto 84 • 093 3976976 Hotel del Corso, Agriturismo and
• Dis. access • www. Taormina B&Bs
hotelpomara.com • € MAP H3 • Corso Umberto
The Pomara is one of the I, 238 • 094 2628698 Baglio Fontanasalsa,
most comfortable inland • www.hoteldelcorso Trapani
options. The location is taormina.com • €€ MAP B2 • Via Cusenza 78
rustic with views of the A three­star hotel that is • 092 3591001 • www.
rolling hills, though the recommended by locals. fontanasalsa.it • €
hotel itself is modern. It The modern rooms have This lovely agriturismo is
has an excellent restau­ small terraces with good a working olive farm on
rant, and is convenient for views, overlooking the an 18th­century property,
visiting Enna, Piazza hillside, the Bay of Naxos with rustic rooms, citrus
Armerina, Morgantina and Mount Etna. Street orchards and play spaces
and Caltagirone. parking is available. for children.
Hotel Posta, Hotel Elios, Taormina Sotto i Pini,
Palermo MAP H3 • Via Bagnoli Zafferana Etnea
MAP L3 • Via Antonio Croci 98 • 094 223431 MAP G3 • Via A Diaz 208,
Gagini 77 • 091 587338 • www.elioshotel.com Pisano • 095 956696 •
• www.hotelposta • €€ www.sottoipini.it • €
palermo.it • € A family­run hotel below A charming Art Nouveau
This three­star hotel is an the Teatro Antico, Hotel villa set in its own vine­
excellent bargain option Elios features comfortable yards, olive groves and
in Palermo. There are 27 and spacious rooms, and orchards, offering views
large, clean rooms, the almost all have full or of Mount Etna and the
public areas have TVs, and partial sea views. It also sea. Break fast features
parking is available. The has a rooftop with lounge organic, seasonal, local
hotel is situated near the chairs in which to relax. produce, much of it
church of San Domenico. home­grown.
Hotel Gutkowski,
Katane Palace Hotel, Syracuse Torre di Renda,
Catania MAP H5 • Lungomare di Piazza Armerina
MAP G4 • Via Finocchiaro Levenate 26 • 093 1465 MAP E4 • Enna, Piazza
Aprile 110 • 095 7470702 861 • Dis. access • www. Armerina • 093 5680208
• www.katanepalace.it • € guthotel.it • €€ • www.torrerenda.it • €
This modern hotel has In summer, breakfast is This rustic agriturismo
60 spacious rooms in a served on the terrace at in the hills around Piazza
For a key to hotel price categories see p142





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146 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Armerina has spacious and four suites. On-site cliffside, with balconies
rooms. Horse riding and facilities include a small overlooking the sea, and
bicycle tours available. pool, reading room, pool steps down the cliffs.
There is a swimming pool hall and cooking courses.
and restaurant on site. Two-night minimum stay. B&B Enza
Marturano, Lipari
La Zagara, Furci Masseria Susafa, MAP G1 • Via Maurolico
Siculo Polizzi Generosa 35 • 368 322 4997 • No
MAP H3 • Via Manzoni 5 MAP E3 • Contrada Susafa credit cards • www.
• 338 229 7864 • www. • 338 960 8713 • www. enzamarturano.it • €€
lazagarabeb.it • € masseriasusafa.com • €€ In the centre of Lipari, not
In a village near Taormina, This converted farmhouse far from the Marina Corta,
just steps from the beach, in the Madonie mountains this place features four
the five rooms here have has a rustic glamour. The bright private rooms with
private bathrooms and 13 rooms accommodate cooking facilities. Rooms
balconies with sea views. anywhere from two to six are grouped around a
people. On-site restaurant. communal sitting room,
BB 22, Palermo kitchen and terrace.
MAP M3 • Via Pantelleria Talìa, Modica
22 (junction Largo MAP G6 • Via Exaudinos Sicily Holiday Rentals
Cavalieri di Malta) 1/9 • 093 2752075 093 21961701 • www.
• 091 326214 • www. • www.casatalia.it • €€ sicilyholidayrentals.com
bb22.it • €€ Small stone houses in • €€€
Each guest room in this Modica’s ancient ghetto Carefully selected villas
centrally located B&B have been sensitively in the countyside, or apart-
in a restored palazzo is renovated and linked via ments by the sea, are
unique. Expect feather original terraced gardens offered through this com-
tassels on the gilt bureau, and stone staircases. pany, which specializes
hot-pink terry-covered The rooms are minimally in properties in Pozzallo,
bath furniture as well as decorated with Sicilian but also lists places in
armoires decorated with materials. Ragusa and Syracuse.
lovely Eastern motifs.
Self-Catering and Pensione and
Locanda COS, Vittoria Villas Monasteries
MAP F5 • SP3, Km 14,300
• 338 960 8713 • www. Agrituristica Villa La Giara, Nicolosi
cosvittoria.it • €€ Levante, Castelbuono MAP G3 • Viale della
Restored farmhouses on MAP E3 • Via Isnello Regione 12/a • 095 791
the grounds of the COS • 092 1671914 • www. 9022 • www.giara.it • €
winery have been turned villalevante.it • € Spacious rooms and
into romantic apartments Three nicely restored colourful decor make
with high domed ceilings self-catering apartments this place an appealing
and balconies. Gorgeous are set in the towers of a base for exploring Mount
pool area, winery tours 19th-century castle with Etna. There is an ample
available on request and pretty gardens and a farm terrace with views up to
traditional food. producing olive oil. There the volcano.
are marked trails for a
Mandranova, Palma walk to Castelbuono, hik- Il Giardino del
di Montechiaro ing and mountain biking. Barocco, Noto
MAP D5 • SS 115, km 217 MAP G5 • Via Aurispa
• 393 986 2169 • www. Apartments Casa Giovanni 77 • 093 1573
mandranova.com • €€ Giudecca, Cefalù 919 • www.ilgiardinodel
Producing award-winning MAP E2 • Via Candeloro barocco.it • €
olive oil, Mandranova is 127 • 092 1922339 This small pensione is set
nestled between the sea • www.bookingcefalu. in a magnificent historic
and the coastline, where com • € palace with a courtyard
old farmhouses have been Apartments for rent to the garden, offering an oasis
converted into 13 rooms east of Cefalù. Built on a of calm in the city centre.




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetsmart – hotels, 8.25pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
142-147_Top_10_Sicily.indd 146 30/10/2017 17:05
Date 19 February 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Places to Stay ❮❮ 147


Monastero di San Pocho, San Vito lo small market and self­
Benedetto, Modica Capo service restaurant.
MAP G6 • Via Santa Maria MAP B2 • Localita
e Sant’Antonio 7 • 093 Isulidda • 092 3972525 Camping La Focetta
2941033 • No credit • Dis. access • www. Sicula, Sant’Alessio
cards • No air hotel-pocho.it • €€€ Siculo
conditioning • € A small pensione with 12 MAP H3 • Contrada Siena
A few minutes’ walk from comfortable rooms, some 40 • 094 2751657 • www.
the station, this monas­ decorated with items from lafocetta.it • €
tery, founded in 1892, has a tradi tional Sicilian pup­ Located right by the sea,
single bedrooms and a pet theatre. There is a this campsite has 85 beds
refectory. It is mainly for terrace restaurant, sea in furnished bungalows
religious retreats. views and a beach nearby. and mobile homes with
air conditioning, heating
Pensione Tranchina, Campsites and and with a shaded terrace
Scopello Hostels or veranda.
MAP C2 • Via A Diaz 7 •
092 4541099 • www.pen Baia dei Coralli, Il Forte Camping
sionetranchina.com • € Palermo Village, Marzamemi
A 10­room pensione in a MAP D2 • Via Plauto 27, MAP G6 • Contrada
tiny fishing village, with Sferracavallo • 091 77850 Spinazza • 093 1841011
decorated rooms that 80 • www.aighostels.it • € • Dis. access • www.
have iron or wooden Just a few steps from the ilfortevillage.it • €
bed steads; several have beach in a seaside resort, This camping village with
a sea view. The owners this hostel sleeps 76 in bungalows and parking is
cook excellent Sicilian double or four­bed rooms. located near a sandy
cuisine, mainly using It’s a short bus ride beach. Facilities include
fresh seafood and from Palermo. public telephones, a bar,
garden vegetables. restaurant and market, as
Camping Baia Unci, well as diving, boat, bike
SoleLuna della Lipari and scooter hire.
Solidarietà, Palermo MAP G1 • Via Marina
MAP L2 • Via Vincenzo Garibaldi 3/7, Canneto Ostello Degli
Riolo 7 • 091 581671 • 090 9811909 • www. Elefanti, Catania
• Dis. access • No credit campingbaiaunci.it • € MAP G4 • Via Etnea 28
cards • www.solelunabed Set on a beautiful bay on • 095 2265691 • www.
andbreakfast.org • € the island of Lipari, this ostellodeglielefanti.it • €
Each room here has its well­shaded campsite Set in a 17th­century
own private, though not takes tents, campervans palazzo, just steps from
en­suite, bathroom. The and caravans. Also Piazza Duomo, this hostel
owner donates 5 per cent available are fully offers dorms and private
of her proceeds to a local furnished, air­conditioned rooms, a reading room,
youth group; she also bungalows for 2–6 people. kitchen and a rooftop
offers tours of Palermo. terrace with views of
Camping Mount Etna.
Albergo Domus Costaponente, Cefalù
Mariae, Syracuse MAP E2 • Loc. Ogliatrillo, Taormina’s Odyssey,
MAP H5 • Via Vittorio state road 113, Km 190 Taormina
Veneto 76 • 093 124854 • 092 1420085 • No credit MAP H3 • Via Paterno di
• www.domusmariae cards • www.camping- Biscari 13 • 094 224533
benessere.com • €€ costaponente.com • Dis. access • www.
The Ursuline sisters run a • Closed Nov–Mar • € taorminaodyssey.com • €
modern hotel in a restored A three­star campsite There’s a very friendly
19th­century palazzo on with spots for tents and atmosphere at this hostel
Ortygia. All 16 rooms have cara vans, a swimming in the residential part of
air condi tioning; some pool, tennis courts and Taormina, a short walk
have a sea view. Book access to the beach below. from the centre. Private
in advance. Its facilities include a bar, rooms or dormitory.
For a key to hotel price categories see p142





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148 ❯❯ General Index

Index


Page numbers in bold Antonello da Messina 56, Butera 59
refer to main entries. 109 Byzantines 53
Aperitivi rinforzati 85
Aquarium (Syracuse) 67 C
A Aqueducts 52 Cable car (Etna) 7, 20
Abbazia di Santo Spirito Villa Romana del Casale Caccamo 48
(Agrigento) 33 31 Caffè Sicilia (Noto) 80
Accommodation 142–47 Arabs La Cala (Palermo) 92
Accursio (Modica) 79, Arab Norman Caltabellotta 118, 119,
131 architecture 45 121, 123
Aci Castello 48, 60, 112 invasion 42 Caltagirone 82, 126
Acireale 86, 115 vestiges of 52–3 Campsites 147
Adrano 26 Archaeological Park I Candelai (Palermo) 72
Adventure parks see (Selinunte) 70 Cannizzaro, Stanislao 46
Theme, adventure and Archimedes 25 Cantina Siciliana (Trapani)
water parks Architectural styles 45 79, 105
Aeolian Islands 10, 16–17, Ariosto, Ludovico 68 Car hire 139
19, 22–3 Artists 56–7 Caravaggio 12, 84, 109
outdoor activities 113 Assedio a Parigi 69 Carnevale 86
Two Days on the Aeolian Associazione Culturale Carob trees 126
Islands 7 Palab (Palermo) 72, 96 Carta, Giuseppe 39
Aeschylus 27, 56, 71 Avola 127 Carthaginians 27, 32, 42,
Agorà (Catania) 73 53
Agrigento 32–5, 47, 51, B Motya 45, 67, 101
117, 120 B&Bs 140, 141, 145–6 Selinunte 36, 39, 44
history 27 Bagheria 102 Solunto 44, 102
performing arts 71 Banking 138 Carts 54, 95
places to eat 80, 123 Baroque architecture 29, Castel di Tusa 143
places to stay 143 45 Castelbuono 48, 67, 115,
Valle dei Templi 6, 8–9, Basile, Ernesto 70 146
11, 32–3, 45 Basile, Giovanni Battista Castellammare del Golfo
Agriturismo 145–6 70 60
Air travel 134, 135 Beaches 60–61 Castelluccio 26
Albanians 52, 59 Northwest Sicily 103 Castelmola 19
Albergheria (Palermo) 92, La Befana 55 Castelvetrano 6, 86, 102,
93 Belice Valley 43, 86, 103 104
Alcamo 74, 102 Bellini, Vincenzo 56, 70 Castiglione di Sicilia
Alcàntara Gorge 65, 113 Bianco d’Alcamo 74, 102 144
Alicudi 7, 17 Black, wearing 55 Castles and fortifications
Allied landings 51, 53 Boat travel 134, 135 48–9, 66
Altar of Hieron II Boating 65, 113 Aci Castello 48
(Syracuse) 24 Borgo Medievale Acropolis walls
Altieri 1882 (Erice) 82 (Taormina) 19 (Selinunte) 36
Ancient sites 44–5 Bourbons 53 Caccamo castle 48
see also Carthaginians; Bronte 85, 87, 115 Caltabellotta 118, 119
Greeks; Romans; Bronze Age 26 Castello (Lipari) 49
Temples Budget tips 85 Castello di Donnafugata
Angevins 42 Burri, Alberto 102 49
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto Burton, Richard 19 Castello Eurialo 25, 49,
(Modica) 81 Buscemi 129 128




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Index “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.beta)
148-156_Top_10_Sicily.indd 148 30/10/2017 17:05
Date 17th February 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm