(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Sicily

Castles ❮❮ 49



Aeolian Lipari
Islands
Messina
Palermo A20
Erice S187 A29 Monreale Termini Cefalù S113 Patti S113
Trapani Imerese A20 Monti Nebrodi S114
Alcamo Caccamo Castelbuono Randazzo A18
Val di Mázara Corleone S120 Nicosia Mount
Marsala M. Madonie Taormina
Castelvetrano
A29 S121 A19 Adrano Etna
Castello di
Mussomeli A19 Aci Castello
S115 Enna
Caltanissetta
Ribera Catania
S189 S640 Canicattì Palagonia
Agrigento S417 Lentini
S115 Caltagirone Augusta
Mediterranean S117 Castello
Sea Licata Gela Euríalo Syracuse
Vittoria Ragusa A18 S115
Noto
0 kilometres 50 Donnafugata
0 miles 50
Castello Eurialo
6 remains of Norman walls surround
These 5th-century-BC forti-
the ancient area sacred to Venus
fications protected the western access Erycina – stones from her temple
to Greek Syracuse. Archimedes added were used to build the castle. There
a draw bridge, trenches and catapults are also Phoenician and Roman
to protect the keep, entered through ruins here.
tunnels from the trench (see p128).
Castello, Lipari
7
MAP G1 • Open 9am–6:30pm
Mon–Sat, 9am–1:30pm Sun &
public hols
Lipari’s castle rock has been fortified
for six millennia. The 12th-century
Norman gate offers a passage
through walls fortified by the Greeks
in the 4th century BC and again by
the Spanish in 1556.
Castello di Donnafugata
8
MAP F6 • Open 9am–12:30pm
daily & 2:45–5:45pm Tue, Sat & Sun
• Adm
Donnafugata is a mix of architectural
styles. The Arabs fortified the site Vertiginous site of Castello di Venere
around AD 1000; it then became a
Castello di Mussomeli
castle around 1300. In 1865 a 0
Venetian Gothic loggia was added. MAP E4 • Caltanissetta, Messina
• Open 9am–noon & 3–6pm Tue–
Castello di Venere, Erice
9 Sun (winter: 9am–noon) • Adm
MAP B2 • Via Conte Pepoli •
Built on an 80-m- (262-ft-) high
Open Apr, May & Oct: 10am–6pm daily; limestone rock, this castle is a fine
Jul & Sep: 10am–7pm daily; Aug: 10am– example of 14th-century Gothic
8pm daily (last entry 7:30pm) • Adm architecture. It is considered to be
This Norman castle is impressively nearly impenetrable due to the sheer
sited on a sheer cliff face. Inside, the drops and its thick crannied walls.
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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums
















Reliefs in the Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas, Palermo
Museo Archeologico
1 span the 13th to 16th centuries,
Regionale Antonio
comple mented by fine works by
Salinas, Palermo Italian and Flemish artists (see p91).
Housed in a former palace, this
Museo Archeologico
museum is dedicated to the famous 3
archaeologist Antonio Salinas. The Regionale Paolo
objects on display here were recovered Orsi, Syracuse
from sites in western Sicily and show This is one of the most important
the development of art and culture archaeological museums in Sicily
from prehistoric eras to the Roman and documents the ancient cultures
period (see p92). and civilizations of both Syracuse
and eastern Sicily (see pp26–7).
Galleria Regionale
2 Museo Mandralisca,
di Sicilia, Palazzo
Cefalù
Abatellis, Palermo 4
The Catalan-Gothic palace was built MAP E2 • Via Mandralisca 13
at the end of the 15th century and is • 092 1421547 • Open 9am–7pm
now home to the collections of the daily • Adm • www.fondazione
former National Museum. Paintings mandralisca.it
and sculp ture by Sicilian masters The museum contains great
archaeo logical finds, including
The Triumph of Death, Palazzo Abatellis ancient Greek and Arab vases, and
an art gallery with works by Sicilian
artists. Antonello da Messina’s
Portrait of a Man (1465) is here.
Museo Regionale
5
di Messina
MAP H2 • Viale della Libertà 465,
Messina • 090 361292 • Open
9am–1:30pm daily, 4–6:30pm Tue,
Thu, Sat • Adm
This museum is home to some
archi tectural, sculptural and decor-
ative fragments recovered from
churches after the 1908 earthquake,
as well as paintings and sculpture,
including two works by Caravaggio.


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Museums ❮❮ 51

Museo del Sale, Paceco
6
Housed in a restored windmill,
exhibits here trace each stage of
traditional salt-making, from filling
the saltpans with seawater, to evap-
ora tion, recovering, cleaning, storing
and grinding the salt (see p66).
Museo Archeologico
7
Regionale Eoliano, Lipari
Objects on display in this interesting
museum range from obsidian tools Traditional Sicilian puppets
of the Neolithic period to items acquired
Casa-Museo di Antonino
through foreign trade, such as 9
Etruscan red-glazed ceramics. There Uccello, Palazzolo Acreide
are also beautiful vases and masks The mission of Antonino Uccello was
from Greece that have survived from to preserve what he saw as the fast-
Sicily’s Greek occupation (see p17). disappearing culture of peasant
farmers and the range of traditional
Le Ciminiere,
8 handmade items they used.
Catania
Exhibits include puppets,
MAP G4 • Viale Africa • decorated carts, the living
095 4011928 • Museo quarters of a peasant
dello Sbarco: open Jun– home and elegantly
Aug: 10am–5pm Tue– crafted tools, illustrating
Sun; Sep–May: 9am–4pm; a unique aspect of Sicilian
guided tour only • Adm history (see p129).
Literally “the chimneys”,
Museo
this former sulphur works 0
is now a lively cultural Archeologico
centre. Features include Stone head, Agrigento’s Regionale di
the Museo dello Sbarco, archaeological museum Agrigento
a moving reminder of the Archaeo logical finds
US and British landings in Sicily in from Agrigento and related cities
1943, a cinema museum (see p66) reveal the Bronze Age, Hellenization
and a traditional puppet theatre. and the Roman era (see pp34–5).
Aeolian Lipari
Islands
Messina
Palermo A20
Paceco Termini Patti S113
S187 A29 Monreale Imerese Cefalù S113 A20
Alcamo Monti Nebrodi A18 S114
Val di Mázara Corleone M. Madonie Randazzo Taormina
Marsala S120 Nicosia Mount
A29 Castelvetrano S121 A19 Adrano Etna
A19 Aci Castello
Enna
S115 Catania
Ribera S640 Caltanissetta
S189
Canicattì Palagonia
S417 Lentini
Agrigento S115 Caltagirone Augusta
S117
Mediterranean Licata Palazzolo Syracuse
Acreide
Sea Gela A18
Ragusa S115
Vittoria
0 kilometres 50 Noto
0 miles 50
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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Vestiges of Invading Powers


la pettina (the comb) in Syracuse is
left over from the Greeks. The tiny,
winding streets of Palermo’s old
neighbourhoods such as La Kalsa,
or the street plan of Castelvetrano,
come from Arab settlements.
Cefalù’s system of parallel streets
leading down to the sea is Norman.
Farming Techniques
5
The Arabs systematically
farmed according to plant type,
bringing about more flavourful and
bountiful harvests – especially of
olives, which yielded a better olive
Aqueduct across the valley oil. Irrigated by the gebbia, a nearby
water cistern, they also knew when
Waterworks
1 to stop the water supply to citrus
fruits to get a richer flavour.
The Greeks and Romans
used aqueducts and water-
Pasta
powered mills, while the 6
Arabs introduced land Fresh pasta,
irrigation to the area. made of regular wheat
flour, was produced in
Dialect
2 Etruscan era. Dried
Italy as early as the
The 22 dialects
around the island are pasta, which can be
a testament to the stored, was probably
great overlapping of invented by the Arabs
cultures over the cen- Penne all’arrabbiata using Sicily’s semola, a
turies. Words still in use hard durum wheat flour.
include naca (crib) from Greek,
Crops
giuggilena (sesame) from Arabic and 7
travagliare (to work) from French. In The Spanish introduced
the town of Piana degli Albanesi, the tomatoes, potatoes, chocolate and
locals speak Arbëresh, derived from the prickly pear cactus, or fico d’India;
16th-century Albanian. the Greeks brought olive trees and
grapevines; the Arabs citrus fruits,
Place Names
3 sugar cane, date palms, pistachios,
flax, cotton and mulberries.
Many place names are Italian
versions of original Greek or Latin
names. Erice was known as Monte
San Giuliano until Mussolini went on
a name- changing spree and adopted
an Italian version of its original Greek
name, Eryx. Arabic names remain in
abundance – look for names with the
prefixes “Calta”, “Gibil” and “Sala”.
Urban Plans
4
Modern towns often follow
ancient street patterns. The area of
narrow straight streets known as
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Vestiges of Invading Powers ❮❮ 53

Fishing Techniques
8 TOP 10 INVADERS
Sicily’s now famous fishing
techniques were adapted from
Arabic methods. Tuna fishermen still
practise the mattanza in the channel
between Levanzo and Favignana,
encouraging tuna through a system
of nets to the final “chamber of
death”, where they are brought close
to the surface to be killed. Fishermen
work together chanting rhythmically
to haul them aboard and to shore.
Near Messina, swordfish are spotted Battle of Himera, Punic Wars
from a tall mast and harpooned using
a boat called a feluche. 1 Greeks
The first Greek colony founded at
Naxos in 734 BC displaced Sicel
inhabitants.
2 Carthaginians
Carthage invaded repeat edly and
many Punic War battles were fought
on Sicily.
3 Romans
After years of warfare, Rome finally
took Sicily following the fall of
Syracuse back in 212 BC.
4 Byzantines
In AD 535 Sicily became part of
Justinian’s Eastern Roman Empire.
Traditional swordfish harpooning
5 Arabs
Erosion
9 The Arab conquest of the island began
in AD 827 and was complete only in
The Romans began the
defores tation of the island to export AD 902 with the fall of Taormina.
timber and make way for wheat 6 Normans
plantations. Sicily now has few After 30 years of crusades, Count
trees and the earth is washed Roger de Hauteville finally took Sicily
in 1091 (see p42).
away in heavy rains.
7 Spaniards
Fortified Towers
0 Peter of Aragón was crowned King of
Sicily in 1282, beginning nearly 440
The Spanish protected Sicily’s
coastline by constructing more than years of Spanish domination.
100 defensive towers. Messages 8 Bourbons
were passed by fire signals. Sicily was given to the House of
Savoy in the 1713 Peace of Utrecht
treaty, and swapped for Sardinia
Fortified towers along Scopello coast seven years later, thereby coming
under Habsburg rule.
9 Italians
Garibaldi and his Redshirts invaded at
Marsala in 1860, starting the campaign
that ended with the Unification of Italy.
10 Allied Forces
On 10 July 1943, Allied Forces under
generals Patton and Montgomery
landed at Licata and Pachino, taking
Sicily in 38 days (see p51, Le Ciminiere).



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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Customs and Traditions


Hand Gestures
1
A Grand Tour author reported
that Sicilians had been using hand
gestures since the Greek invasion
as a way of furthering resistance
against foreign rule. Some of the
common gestures you see mean:
“She’s pretty,” “This tastes great,”
“Let’s go,” “I couldn’t care less,”
“Do you want to stop for a coffee?”,
“Be careful,” “That’s not such a
good idea,” and even “His wife is
cheating on him.”
The Sicilian Cart
2 Sicilian botte full of bottles of wine
Once used for transport, these
Wine
wooden carts are painted in bright 4
colours and depict scenes from A glass of new wine is enjoyed
traditional Sicilian puppet shows. with i muffuletti (round sandwich bread
They often feature in local parades. baked with fennel seeds and dressed
with salt and oil) on St Martin’s Day –
usually strong, amber-coloured wine
retrieved from the botte (barrel).
Many families have at least enough
grapevines for a yearly botte of wine,
keeping it in the cellar, in the garage
or any other cool spot they can find.
Proverbs
5
Sicilians always have a quip
spoken in dialect. Examples include:
Cu’ avi ‘nna bona vigna, avi pani, vinu e
ligna (He who owns a good vineyard
has bread, wine and wood); Cu nun
‘sapi l’arti, chiudi putia (He who does
not know his craft, closes his shop);
Soggira e nora calaru di n’celu
sciarriannus (Mothers-in-law and
daughters-in-law were sent from
heaven and started fighting before
Decorated Sicilian cart they hit the ground); and La soggira
voli bene a la nora comu n’rizzu n’pettu
Festivals
3 (Mothers-in-law love their daughters-
in-law like a sea urchin in the bed).
Festivals for patron saints
once offered the only chance for a
Legends
holiday, and entertainment. Feasts 6
were often in spring, giving farmers King Roger’s 12th-century
a chance to rest after the planting French court poets told stories of
and to pray for a successful harvest. Charlemagne and the paladins and
The festa was the one day everyone the King Arthur cycle, which once
came in from the fields for religious included Sicily in its milieu. The
processions, games, horse races, paladins survive today as puppet
music and fireworks (see pp86–7). theatre heroes (see pp68–9).


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Customs and Traditions ❮❮ 55

I Morti
7 TOP 10 SMALL-TOWN TRADITIONS
All Souls Day on 2 November
is a major celebration. Families visit
the cemetery, where tombs have
been rigorously tidied up and adorned
with fresh flowers for the glory of the
dead and for the approval of family
members and anyone else passing.
Relatives from the other world (or
this world) leave children gifts, such
as toys, frutta martorana (fake fruits
crafted from almond paste) and pupi
di cera, garishly coloured sugar dolls.
Playing cards in the sun
Olive Oil
8 1 Old men sitting outside
On 11 November – St Martin’s
Day – families celebrate their new, Old men often sit on a park bench to
chat. They may go home for lunch and
thick, spicy, green olive oil by trying it return to their spot in the afternoon.
on i muffuletti. If they don’t have their
own olive trees, families obtain a 2 Naming babies
year’s supply of olive oil from a The first-born child is named after the
paternal grandparents, the second
relative or another trusted source, child after the maternal ones.
making sure to have a full giara, a
waist-high terracotta storage jar. 3 Weddings
Weddings can be whole-town affairs,
La Befana
9 where bride- and groom-to-be open
their future home to well-wishers.
This craggy old woman who
declined an invitation to join the 4 Folk groups
Three Kings bringing gifts to Christ Folk groups, as keepers of the ancient
traditions, perform in period costumes
in the manger regretted her decision, and sing in dialect.
set out on her own, and has been
travelling the earth ever since with 5 Patron saints
Townspeople celebrate and give thanks
a large sackful of gifts. At Epiphany to their patron saint with a multiday
(6 January) she fills children’s socks feast and procession through the town.
with presents if they’ve been good, or
with coal (usually of the sweet, edible 6 Good Friday
The biggest religious event of the year.
kind) if they’ve been bad. Everyone dresses up and follows the
Artisanal Fishing
0 procession through the streets.
7 Easter Monday
Fishing is big business, but
there are still artisanal fleets fishing The unofficial start of the summer,
when everyone retreats to the
using colourful nets, homemade countryside for an all-day barbecue.
lobster pots and cannizzi, handmade 8 Wearing black
cane switches for aggravating the fish. In small towns people can wear black
for years after the death of a loved one.
Repairing nets after a day’s fishing
9 Sitting outdoors in summer
Even people without a garden will
often sit outside in summer. You can
see them on portable chairs talking
or watching (a portable) TV.
10 Buying from a travelling vendor
Fruit and vegetable vendors sell
produce from the back of their truck.
Shoppers will lower a basket from their
balcony to make a purchase.
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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Artists, Writers and
Composers


















Late 19th-century illustration of the Greek tragedy Prometheus Bound
Aeschylus
Giacomo Serpotta
1 4
Born in Palermo, Serpotta
The “father of Greek tragedy”
(525–456 BC) was born near Athens (1656–1732) decorated Baroque inte-
but made extended visits to Sicily. riors, creating an aesthetic tran sition
Only seven of around 500 plays have between architecture and painting
survived, among them Agamemnon, by covering the area with figures
Oedipus and Prometheus Bound. and scenes modelled in stucco.
Many of his plays were premiered
in Syracuse’s theatre (see p25),
where they are still performed.
Antonello da Messina
2
The Messina-born Antonello
(c 1430–79) is one of the masters of
Italian Renaissance art. He is known
for detail, intriguing portraits and the
luminous quality of his paintings
achieved through his skilful use of oil
paints, learned from the Flemish
masters. Italian Renaissance artists
adopted oils in his wake, making it
the standard medium for the world’s
greatest masterpieces. Antonello
works remain in museums in Cefalù,
Palermo, Messina and Syracuse. Portrait of Vincenzo Bellini
The Gagini Family
Vincenzo Bellini
3 5
Domenico Gagini (d 1492) and
The composer (1801–35) was
his son Antonello (1478–1536) set the born in Catania, trained in Naples
style for architecture and sculp ture and is buried in Catania’s cathedral.
in Sicily during the 15th and 16th His successful early works led to
centuries. The Gagini combined commissions for La Scala in Milan.
Renaissance and Gothic forms to The Sleepwalker and Norma are
create uniquely Sicilian pieces. among his most successful operas.


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Artists, Writers and Composers ❮❮ 57

Luigi Pirandello
6 TOP 10 FILMS SET IN SICILY
Born at Caos near Agrigento,
Pirandello (1867–1936) is known as
the founder of 20th-century drama
with plays such as Six Characters in
Search of an Author (1921).
Giuseppe Tomasi di
7
Lampedusa
Lampedusa (1896–1957) is the
author of Il Gattopardo (The Leopard),
a portrait of Sicilian aristocracy pre-
and post-Unification. It was based on
the life of his great-grandfather and
published posthumously.
Burt Lancaster in Il Gattopardo
Salvatore Quasimodo
8 1 Il Gattopardo
Born in Modica, novelist and
poet Quasimodo (1901–68) wrote Luchino Visconti’s 1963 film version of
Lampedusa’s novel stars Burt Lancaster.
anti-Fascist works in a political
climate that made it necessary to 2 Divorzio all’Italiana
Marcello Mastroianni is a Sicilian
disguise his message. He was aristocrat seeking a divorce in Pietro
awarded the Nobel Prize in 1959. Germi’s 1961 comedy.
Renato Guttuso
9 3 A Ciascuno il Suo
Adapted from a Sciascia novel, a look
Originally from Bagheria,
Guttuso (1912–87) painted energetic into the Mafia and life in 1960s Sicily,
directed by Elio Petri in 1967.
Expressionistic canvases that illus- 4 La Terra Trema
trated Sicilian peasant life and spoke Visconti’s 1948 adaptation of Verga’s I
out against the Mafia and Fascism. Malavoglia, the story of a fisherman’s
Leonardo Sciascia
0 failed dream of independence.
5 The Godfather (Il Padrino)
Sciascia (1921–89) was a
political essayist and novelist. Works Francis Ford Coppola’s iconic Mafia saga
was based on the book by Mario Puzo.
such as The Wine Dark Sea give an 6 Cento Giorni a Palermo
insight into the compli cated world of Giuseppe Ferrara’s 1983 film tells the
Sicilian thinking and Mafia culture. story of policeman Carlo Alberto Dalla
Chiesa, murdered by the Mafia after
Novelist Leonardo Sciascia just 100 days on the job.
7 Kaos
A 1984 film adaptation of four
Pirandello stories.
8 Cinema Paradiso
Giuseppe Tornatore’s 1989 Academy
Award-winning film takes a romantic
look at grow ing up in a remote village.
9 Il Postino
Shot on Salina, this film is about a
Sicilian postman whose life is turned
around through his friendship with the
Chilean poet Pablo Neruda (1994).
10 I Cento Passi
Marco Tullio Giordana recounts the
life of anti-Mafia activist Peppino
Impastato in this 2002 film.



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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Villages


Aeolian Isola Lipari
Islands
Messina
Erice Scopello Palermo A20
di Sopra Monreale Cefalù S113 Patti S113 S114
A20
Trapani S187 A29 Alcamo Piana degli Monti Nebrodi Novara
di Sicilia
Val di Mázara Albanesi M. Madonie Randazzo A18
Marsala Sambuca Mezzojuso Petralia Taormina
di Sicilia Soprana S120 Mount
Castelvetrano S121 A19 Adrano Etna
A29 Palazzo Aci Castello
Adriano Enna A19
S189 Caltanissetta S417
Ribera Catania
S115
S640
Agrigento Butera Palagonia Lentini
Caltagirone Augusta
S117
S115
Mediterranean Palazzolo Syracuse
Sea Licata Gela Acreide A18
Vittoria Ragusa Noto S115
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
something of a tourist boom, but has
retained the charm of a tiny fishing
hamlet, and you will still see an old
mariner with huge nets stretched the
length of the piazza, repairing the
gaps with an enormous needle.
Sambuca di Sicilia
3
MAP C3
Featuring lovely Baroque buildings,
Arabesque alleyways and a valley
of vineyards, Sambuca di Sicilia is
easily one of the most picturesque
towns in all of Sicily – and without
many tourists. In particular, the
In the mountains, Novara di Sicilia ruins of Mazzalakar castle, set
along Lake Arancia (Orange Lake)
Novara di Sicilia
1 are worth a visit.
MAP G2
Palazzolo Acreide
This little mountain village is 4
tucked between the Peloritani Originally a Greek village
and Nebrodi mountain ranges. called Akrai (a small Greek theatre
The medieval site has a crumbling remains), Palazzolo Acreide is an
Arab castle and the 16th-century enchanting village in the Hyblean
Chiesa Madre with naive wood moun tains with an impressive range
carvings on the altar. of historic sites to visit, considering
its size (see p125). Most of what
Scopello di Sopra
2 you see today is Baroque: the
churches are spectacular, par-
MAP C2
This small village of fisher men ticularly the large Church of San
was almost inaccessible until the Sebastiano and the tiny Church
road was built from Castellammare. of the Annunciation with its
Now the village is experiencing ornate twisting columns.
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Villages ❮❮ 59

Butera
5
MAP E5
High on a plateau overlooking fields
out to the sea, Butera dates from
the Bronze Age and has traces of
Lombard in its dialect. Famous for its
acres of vineyards, it supplies grapes
to local and national winemakers.
Piana degli Albanesi
6
MAP C2
Nestled in the Sicanian hills, this town
was founded in the 15th century by
Greco-Albanian refugees and has
retained its unique heritage. The locals
speak in Albanian dialect and street
signs are bilingual. Their weddings
take place with traditional costumes
and Byzantine Catholic rites.
Winding stone streets of Erice
Mezzojuso
7 Erice
MAP D3
The name of this village translates 9
Erice has managed to keep
as “halfway down” – and it is halfway much of its medieval charm. The
down the Madonie mountains. It has buildings are all built of locally
an Alpine rather than a Mediterranean quarried white stone, adding to its
feel. It was home to Greco-Albanian lovely storybook appearance. The
settlers, and the Basilian monastery stones of the steep streets have
was a hub of cultural activity; it now characteristic patterns, worn over
houses a library with antique books. time (see p99).
Palazzo Adriano
Petralia Soprana
8 0
MAP D3
MAP E3
The highest village in Madonie, at In the heart of this fertile area, Palazzo
1,147m (3,760 ft) above sea level, Adriano is lofty and remote. In Piazza
medieval Petralia Soprana feels Umberto I are two churches, Catholic
untouched by the modern world, with Santa Maria del Lume and the Greek
vistas of the rolling mountains below. Orthodox Santa Maria Assunta, built
in the 1400s. The Italian film Cinema
Petralia Soprana atop the mountains Paradiso was set here (see p57).





















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60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beaches



















Isolated cove with rocky towers in the sea, near Scopello
Castellammare del
1 tranquillity, this is not the best beach
Golfo
in Sicily, but it’s popular for those
MAP C2 who want to be part of the scene.
The beaches west of Castellammare
Eraclea Minoa
are prettier and less populated than 3
those to the east. There are beautiful MAP C4
coves with clear water – those with Below the ruins of the Greek city (see
pebble beaches are spectacular in p118) a little seaside village comes to
Lo Zingaro (see p100) and at Scopello life in summer. The sandy beach is
Tonnara, with its rock towers and old long, wide and open, and buffered by
boat ramp for sunbathing. pine woods. At either end are two bars
providing beach chairs and snacks.
Mondello
2 Aci Castello
MAP D2
This is Palermo’s backyard. It is 4
MAP G4
crowded with the seaside villas of Here clear, blue water laps onto the
Palermo’s aristocracy and locals of black lava rocks just below the castle
all walks of life taking advantage of (see p48). Descend to the left, where
the beach, bars, gelaterie, restaurants a water polo court is set up in sum­
and clubs. For swimming, nature and mer, or to the right to a wooden deck
for sunbathing and diving.
Mazzarò & Giardini
5
Naxos
MAP H3
The water at the two resorts below
Taormina is a calm, brilliant blue. The
cable car from Taormina descends to
Mazzarò, a developed resort area with
two pebble beaches lined with well­
equipped bathing spots, coves for
exploring and the popular island of
Isola Bella (see p18). Giardini Naxos is
a town with a port and long stretches
Beach activities at Mondello of beach lined with hotels (see p109).


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Beaches ❮❮ 61

Pollara, Salina
Lampedusa
6 9
MAP B6
MAP G1
The tiny islet Isola dei Conigli, off A crescent of large pebbles with a
Lampedusa, and the bay in between cliff backdrop. When the wind is high,
have been set apart as a nature the beach disappears under the
reserve for sea turtles who lay their waves, even in summer. There is a
eggs on the beach. The water is faraglione (rock tower) poking out of
clean and shallow in the bay and the the sea. Bring food and drink or get
sands are white, but there are no supplies in the piazza (see p16).
facilities, so bring your own supplies.
Scoglitti & Donnalucata
7
MAP F6
The sandy beaches along this
southeast stretch of coast are long
and wide and splashed with green-
blue surf. There is very little tourist
development, beyond small fishing
villages including Scoglitti and
Donnalucata, with their nice markets
and good restaurants, and little
seaside villages that come to life in
summer, such as Marina di Ragusa.
Selinunte
8 Cliffs of Pollara Beach, Salina
MAP B4
Vendicari
A large sandy beach stretches to 0
the east of the port and just below MAP G6
the temples (see pp36–9). Bathing A spectacular nature reserve
establish ments offer beach chairs, with sandy beaches set around a
water sports equipment, restaurants 15th-century Aragonese tower. The
and bars. It tends to be crowded with pristine coast here offers a peaceful,
students showing off their skimpy natural experience. The park is
suits and tans, but through the small covered with Mediter ranean maquis,
pine wood to the west you’ll find an and its wetland habitat is a stop for
open beach for families. birds migrating to and from Africa.
Pollara, Salina Isola Lipari
Aeolian
Mondello Islands Messina
Castellammare
del Golfo Palermo A20
A29 S113
Patti
Imerese
Trapani S187 Alcamo Monreale Termini Cefalù S113 A20 Monti Nebrodi A18 S114
Val di Mázara M. Madonie Randazzo Taormina Mazzarò
Marsala Corleone Giardini
S120
Nicosia Mount Naxos
A29 Castelvetrano S121 A19 Etna
Adrano
A19 Aci Castello
Enna
Selinunte Ribera Caltanissetta Catania
S115
S189 S640
Eraclea Minoa Canicattì Palagonia
Agrigento S417 Lentini
S115 S117 Caltagirone Augusta
Mediterranean Syracuse
Sea Licata Gela A18
Vittoria Ragusa Noto S115
0 kilometres 50 Scoglitti Vendicari
Lampedusa
0 miles 50 200 km Donnalucata
Following pages The rooftops in the Baroque town of Ragusa
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Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
DPS “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1)
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Date 21st January 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

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64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Outdoor Activities


Golf
2
Il Picciolo Golf Club: www.
ilpicciologolf.com • Le Madonie Golf
Club: www.lemadoniegolf.com
• www.italygolfandmore.com
• Verdura Golf & Spa Resort: www.
verduraresort.com
There are several 18-hole courses
in Sicily, often set in dramatic coastal
locations. Some courses are part of
a luxury hotel complex offering
spas, culinary initiatives and
cultural events.
Fishing, Favignana
3
You can’t join in the traditional
mattanza fishing ritual, although you
can watch it in progress if you happen
to be there when the tuna are running
(see p53). You can also hire a boat with
Hiking on an old lava flow a local captain for a day’s fishing.
Hiking
Watersports
1 4
Diving and snorkelling are
There are great hikes all over
the island, whether you’re looking for available with trained guides through
a strenuous climb up a volcano, a diving centres in many places, such
long walk through the green hills of as Scopello and the Aeolian Islands,
the interior or an exciting hike on or snorkel on your own to enjoy the
trails clinging to the cliffs above the marine life along Sicily’s shores.
blue sea. Most nature reserves are Beaches in touristy areas hire out
orientata (orientated), meaning that pedal boats and windsurfing boards.
they have marked trails that may be
Swimming
graded for difficulty. Lo Zingaro has 5
a good selection of trails, as do the The unspoiled, clear water
parks of the Nebrodi and Madonie off Sicily and the offshore islands is
mountain ranges (see pp100 and 113). spectacular, and great for swimming.
Hire a guide to explore Mount Etna, The shoreline has sandy or pebble
Stromboli or Vulcano. beaches, private coves, grottoes
and rock formations. Lifeguards
Diving off the Egadi Islands are not always on duty.
















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Outdoor Activities ❮❮ 65

Horse Riding
6 TOP 10 SICILIAN FLORA
Nature reserves such as Lo
Zingaro, the Madonie and Nebrodi AND FAUNA
moun tain ranges and Mount Etna 1 Sea Turtles
are populated with small farms with Rare sea turtles bury their eggs in the
horses for hire. Ask at the nearest sands of the Belice Estuary and the
hotel or check park leaflets for Pelagie Islands.
ippoturismo and maneggio (stables). 2 Sanfratellano Horse
A species indigenous to the Nebrodi,
descendant of ancient Equus sicanus.
3 Cirneco dell’Etna
The native dog of Mount Etna is a
natural hunter who seeks small prey.
4 Cactus
The fico d’India, or prickly pear, thrives
in Sicily’s arid climate.
5 Dwarf Palm
This tiny palm flourishes in the
northwest of Sicily; its fronds are
preferred by craftsmen for weaving
baskets and brooms.
6 Fennel
Bright yellow, fluffy green or tall and
Cycling is a good way to explore crispy brown, depending upon the
season, it covers hillsides and springs
Cycling
7 up along the side of roads.
7 Agave
Sicily has a steep terrain for
cyclists, though it is a great way to The low-growing aloe-like plant with
sight see in the quieter towns and curling spiky leaves puts out a central
many tourist offices offer free bike stalk that can reach up to 12 m (40 ft).
hire. Hiring a bicycle on the islands 8 Thistle
is a convenient way to get around. The hearty, spiky plant pops up along
roadsides and in fields with its bright
Exploring Gorges
8 purple flowers – not to be confused
with cultivated artichokes.
Natural gorges and canyons
are great places for a hike and swim 9 Forests
during the hot summer. Companies The few remains of once-prevalent
pine, oak, cork-oak and beech forests
run tours to the gorges, often as part are now carefully protected.
of a day-long hike. The gorges at
Alcàntara, Cava Grande and Gole 10 Girgentana Goat
di Tiberio are especially good. This breed from the Agrigento area
has long, twisting horns and is bred
Boating
9 specially for its milk.
Sail your own, arriving at one
of Sicily’s many ports, or hire a boat
and a captain for an insider’s tour
of hidden coves.
Skiing on Mount Etna
0
The depth of snow depends on
underground lava flows, but there’s
enough of a base for winter skiing
on the northern slopes. At Zafferana
Etnea, Linguaglossa or Nicolosi ski
hire, a ski school and lifts are Girgentana goats and kids
available (see pp20–21).


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66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions


Museo del Sale, Paceco
Puppet Theatres
1 4
Puppet theatres offer gory
South of Trapani, the small
re-enactments of crusader sword salt museum is inside a windmill.
fights, and encourage the audience Its fascinating exhibits show how the
to root for a favourite crusader. The windmill transfers water from pool
puppets “speak” in Italian, or Sicilian to pool and grinds the harvested salt.
dialect, but it’s easy enough to follow Work in the saltpans is ongoing, and
the action (see pp68–9). you can see each stage that turns
sea water to table salt. There
is a restaurant on site (see p102).
Museo del
5
Cinema, Catania
MAP G4 • Piazzale Rocco Chinnici,
‘‘Le Ciminiere’’ • 095 4011928
• Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; Jul &
Aug: 10am–6pm (last entry 5pm)
• Adm
Catania’s child- and adult-friendly
museum celebrates the cinematic
arts and its history. Educational and
Museo di Geologia ‘‘G G Gemmellaro’’ fun, exhibits retell the story of an
enduring love affair between
Museo di Geologia ‘‘G G
2 cinema and Sicily (see p57).
Gemmellaro’’, Palermo
Etnaland, Belpasso
MAP L6 • Corso Tukori 131 • 091 6
23864665 • Open summer: 9am–1pm MAP G4 • 095 7913334 •
Mon–Sat; winter: 9am–1pm & 3–5pm Open late Jun–early Sep:
Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat • Closed Aug 9:30am–6:30pm daily • Adm
Palermo’s impressive geological • www.etnaland.eu
museum fascinates children and Sicily’s top theme park has a full-size
adults alike with displays from its dinosaur park and plenty of water
collection of over 600,000 artifacts rides, including the Crocodile Rapids.
and specimens. These include There are rides for the youngest
remains of the elephants that children, and others that will get the
roamed Sicily in the Pleistocene era; adrenaline flowing in even the most
a quartz crystal containing a drop of hardened theme park veteran.
Mediterranean seawater
over 5 million years old;
the skeleton of a woman,
known as Thea, dating
from the late Stone Age.
Castles
3
Sicily’s castles
are rich in history and
intrigue, with trapdoors,
secret pass ageways,
dungeons, spy windows
and hidden places from
which boil ing oil was
once poured onto the
enemy (see pp48–9). Gentle rides for young children at Etnaland



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Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 67

Motya
7 TOP 10 FAMILY-FRIENDLY
The archaeological park on the
island of Motya requires a short boat THEME PARKS
ride across the lagoon (less than 10
minutes each way). The spacious
park shows inquisitive kids how the
Phoenicians and the Carthaginians
lived (see p101).
Museo dell’Etna,
8
Viagrande
MAP G3 • Via Dietro Serra 6 •
095 7890768 • Open 9am–12:30pm
Mon–Fri by reservation, Sat & Sun
groups only Parco Adventura Etna
This interactive museum uses 3D
models and satellite images to 1 Parco Avventura Etna, Milo
Climb into treehouses and slide down
explain volcanic phenomena in a fun chutes at this adventure park, or simply
and interesting way (see pp20–21). go for a walk, near Mount Etna.
2 Città del Mare, Terrasini
Boasting the highest water slide in
Europe, this park guarantees fun and
relaxation for the whole family.
3 L’EcoCampus Casaboli
This adventure park near Palermo
allows children to climb trees and rope
ladders, and enjoy a picnic in the forest.
4 Parco Avventura Madonie,
Petralia Sottana
This adventure park is the place to
spend the day learning about nature
while sharpening your acrobatic skills.
5 Agriturismo Bergi, Castelbuono
Spend the day enjoying a delicious
Studying volcanoes, Museo dell’Etna meal at this farmhouse while kids learn
about the day-to-day life on a farm.
Nature Reserves
9 6 Giardino Inglese, Palermo
Sicily’s nature reserves are
good places to spot wildlife, picnic, In the heart of the city, this urban park
features rides and a roller-skating rink.
swim or use the graded hiking trails. 7 Acquapark Sommatino
Mount Etna (see pp20–21) is probably On long hot summer days, this
the most fascinating – the volcano is waterpark is an ideal place to escape
always smoking, if not throwing red from the heat.
sparks into the air. Guides give a lively 8 Bioparco di Sicilia, Carini
account of lava flow and the gift shops See dinosaur replicas, exotic animals
screen spectacular video footage. and rare flora while learning about the
dangers of extinction.
Aquarium, Syracuse
0 9 Nebrodi Adventure Park, Longi
MAP H5 • Largo Aretusa,
Ortygia • Open 10am–8pm daily Slide down ropes and learn about
bird watching, then go for a walk
• Adm in the fresh Nebrodi air.
The Syracuse Acquario has 40 tanks 10 Parcallario, Buccheri
of marine life from the Mediterranean, Have an adventurous day in the
freshwater and tropical habitats. It is Hyblean hills while learning about
at the Fonte Aretusa, on the island of local flora and fauna.
Ortygia; entry is from the marina.




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68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Puppet Traditions


moving their limbs with
strings. The puppets’
joints are fixed and the
swords of the paladins
are drawn. They inhabit
a narrow stage with a
long horizontal backdrop
and are sometimes
joined by live actors.
Palermitan
5
School
Palermitan puppets are
around 1 m (3 ft) tall.
Puppet theatre in Monreale They are entirely handled
by strings, have movable
Origins
1 joints, can raise their face guards and
There were puppeteers in
draw their swords at will. They are
ancient Syracuse, but the Opera dei easily manipulated and their sword
Pupi as we know it today became fights are more lively. The stage of
popular in the 1800s. Puppet theatres the Palermo-style theatre is a deeply
provided entertainment for thousands recessed space with room for many
of Sicilians – Palermo had more than characters and decorated scenery.
25 theatres where crowds would
Stories
watch stories of adventure and 6
romance. Travelling puppet theatres Productions relate saints’ lives,
drew huge crowds in villages. Shakespearean themes, stories of
bandits and local farces. The most
UNESCO Intangible
2 traditional subjects are derived from
Cultural Heritage
the epic poems of the Carolingian
To protect Sicily’s unique folk art cycle, retold by Ludovico Ariosto in
tradition, Opera dei Pupi was added his 1516 Orlando Furioso. The Holy
to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Roman Emperor Charlemagne and
Heritage of Humanity list in 2008. his paladins battle for Christianity
Sicilian puppet theatres are often against the Saracens and Turks.
family-run affairs, crafting the burattini
(puppets or marionettes) using meth- Scene at the Festival di Morgana
ods passed down for generations.
Festival di Morgana,
3
Palermo
This international puppet festival,
held in November, promotes tradi-
tional as well as contemporary
puppetry, and brings together artists
and theatre companies from
around the globe.
Catanese School
4
Puppets of the Catania tradition
are almost 1.5 m (5 ft) tall. Puppeteers
manoeuvre the heavy puppets via a
metal pole attached to the heads,


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Puppet Traditions and Museums ❮❮ 69

“The Bad Guys”
7 TOP 10 PUPPET PLACES
Saracens and Turks wear
baggy trousers and moustaches and AND PEOPLE
bear shields with a crescent moon.
Charlemagne’s brother-in-law and
arch-enemy Gano di Magonza tries
to overthrow the crown. Sorcerer
Malagigi plays both sides, helping
and hurting the paladins’ cause.
“The Good Guys”
8
The Holy Roman Emperor
Charlemagne and his paladins wear
armour and skirts. Orlando carries a Handmade puppets
shield with a cross. His cousin Rinaldo,
a brave fighter, has a lion on his shield, 1 Museo Internazionale
as does his warrior sister Bradamante. delle Marionette Antonio
Pasqualino, Palermo
Angelica, the object of the two men’s This museum houses fine puppets,
affections, is usually at their side. stages and sets (see p94).
2 Museo Civico dell’Opera dei
Pupi, Sortino
The collection of the Puglisi family,
pupari (puppeteers) for five generations.
3 Opera dei Pupi di Enzo
Mancuso, Palermo
Opened in 1928 by Enzo Mancuso, it is
now operated by his grandson (see p71).
4 Opera dei Pupi, Syracuse
The Vaccaro-Mauceri company
has performed puppet shows
for generations (see p71).
5 Teatro dell’Opera dei Pupi
Mimmo Cuticchio, Palermo
Giacomo Cuticchio’s legacy lives on
Puppets in their armour through the work of Mimmo Cuticchio.
Assedio a Parigi
9 6 Marionettistica Fratelli
Napoli, Catania
In this very traditional story,
Charlemagne, under siege by the Gaetano Napoli founded the Catanese
puppet theatre in 1921.
Turks, sends Rinaldo to prepare the 7 Mimmo Cuticchio and Virgilio Sieni
French army and another warrior to A performance uniting contemporary
Rome to ask assistance from the dance and puppetry.
Pope. Rinaldo defeats the Turkish 8 Teatro dei Pupi Siciliani-Famiglia
leader. Malagigi prompts Orlando Argento, Palmero
and Rinaldo to end their differences The Argento family has been
and face the Saracens in Paris. performing across from Palermo’s
Orlando saves the day. Cathedral since 1893.
The Defeat of
0 9 Salamanca, Catania
Francesco Salamanca is a restorer and
Roncisvalle and the
Death of Orlando collector of Sicilian puppets.
In a famous tale, Charlemagne is 10 Anna Cuticchio: First Female
Puppeteer, Palermo
tricked by his brother-in-law Gano The daughter of Mimmo Cuticchio
and the paladins find themselves once owned a theatre and mani pulated
outnumbered. After putting up a over 60 puppets.
noble fight, Orlando dies.



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70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Performing Arts Venues


Aeolian Isola Lipari
Islands
Messina
Palermo Patti A20
Trapani S187 A29 Monreale Termini Cefalù S113 A20 S113 A18
Imerese
Alcamo Monti Nebrodi S114
Val di Mázara Corleone M. Madonie Randazzo Taormina
Marsala Castelvetrano S120 Nicosia Mount
A29 S121 A19 Etna
Adrano
A19 Aci Castello
S115 Caltanissetta
Selinunte Enna
Ribera Catania
S189 S640 S417
Canicattì Palagonia Lentini
Agrigento S115 Caltagirone Augusta
Medit err anean Licata S117
S ea Gela A18 Syracuse
Ragusa S115
Vittoria Noto
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
Archaeological Park,
Teatro Antico di Taormina
1 3
Selinunte
Resting on the acropolis of
ancient Taormenium and famed During August performances of
for its views, this Greco-Roman Greek drama, classical and modern
theatre is a magnificent outdoor dance, and music are staged among
performance venue (see p18). the ruins in Selinunte’s archaeo-
Its programme begins with the logical park. Performances start
Taormina Film Festival in early at 9pm (see pp36–7).
summer and the theatre also hosts
Teatro Massimo Bellini,
concerts by international artists. 4
Catania
MAP G4 • Via Perrotta 12
Catania’s great opera house, named
after local composer Vincenzo Bellini
(see p56), opened its doors in 1890.
The season of opera and concerts,
including chamber music, and ballet
performances by the theatre ballet
company, runs from October to June.
Teatro Massimo,
5
Palermo
Ancient amphitheatre, Taormina The Teatro Massimo was built in the
1880s as a symbol of post-Unification
Lo Spasimo, Palermo
2 Sicily by Neo-Classical architects
The open nave of Santa Maria
Giovanni Battista Basile and his son
dello Spasimo alla Kalsa, a former Ernesto. Despite its grandeur and
church, is a romantic venue for superb acoustics, the theatre fell into
performances and film. Music can decline. After a massive renovation
be heard from the upper outdoor effort, the doors were reopened in
terrace as well, while artworks are 1997, and once again it is Palermo’s
on display in the covered exhibition premier venue for classical music,
space (see p96). ballet and opera (see p96).
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Performing Arts Venues ❮❮ 71

Opera dei Pupi,
6
Syracuse
MAP H5 • Via della Giudecca 22
• www.teatrodeipupisiracusa.it
Puppeteers Mauceri and Vaccaro
direct traditional puppet shows in
the Catania style (see p68); as well
as the lives of the saints, there are
the Mauceri family’s own produc­
tions. You can also watch puppets
being made and restored in the
family workshop.
Teatro Ditirammu,
7
Palermo
MAP P4 • Via Torremuzza 6 • www. Stage at the Greek Theatre, Syracuse
teatroditirammu.it
Greek Theatre, Syracuse
This 52­seat theatre in Palermo’s 9
historic Kalsa district stages Classical works are staged in
concerts of Sicilian folk music. spring in Syracuse’s ancient theatre,
It also promotes shows of lively including Aeschylus’s tragedies,
tarantella or heart­wrenching premiered here thousands of years
storytelling set to music throughout ago. Daily performances take place
the city – outdoors in Piazza Kalsa, from mid­May through to the end of
for example. June. The largest theatre of ancient
Sicily is mostly intact and fits modern
Opera dei Pupi di Enzo
8 stage sets and seating (see p25).
Mancuso, Palermo
Teatro Luigi Pirandello,
MAP L1 • Via Collegio di Maria al 0
Borgo Vecchio 17 • 091 8146971 • Agrigento
www.mancusopupi.it MAP D4 • Piazza Luigi Pirandello 1
The Mancuso family has been • www.teatroluigipirandello.it
working with Sicilian puppets since The ornate Agrigento civic theatre
1928, and young Enzo dedicates was opened in 1880. The venue was
himself to breathing new life into the dedicated to the playwright Luigi
art. He makes puppets as needed, but Pirandello on the 10th anniversary
his collection also includes vintage of his death in 1946 (see p57). From
models that have been passed down. November to May there are modern
theatre performances and dance,
Traditional puppet tale as well as works by Pirandello.






















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72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Nights Out


The Passeggiata
3
The passeggiata (promenade)
can be an afternoon or an evening
activity. In summer, join the crowds
on the promenades at Selinunte,
San Vito lo Capo, Mondello, Marina
di Ragusa, Palermo (Via Ruggero
Settimo) and Catania (Via Etnea).
Associazione Culturale
4
Palab, Palermo
This lively cultural centre stages live
music, comedy, theatre, dance, film
Jazz club in Palermo and exhibitions of contem porary art
and photography. There’s a cocktail
Clubs
1 bar, pizzeria and restaurant (see p96).
Discoteche open up each
Via Landolina, Catania
summer, often under new names 5
and management from previous MAP G4
years. Huge crowds of visitors Via Landolina, near the Piazza
mix with locals to fill up the open- Bellini, is lined with bars and clubs.
air dance floors and bars. Look La Chiave (Nos. 64–70) usually has
for posters for clubs, especially in a programme of live music and in
towns and villages close to the sea. summer organizes Landolina Live,
a full slate of live rock, folk and jazz
The Piazza
2 during June, July and August.
In villages in summer when
I Candelai, Palermo
people stay inside during hot after- 6
noons, families and friends sit in the MAP K4 • Via dei Candelai 65
piazza and eat gelato into the night. This Palermo dive has been going
In touristy towns, the piazza has a strong since 1996. Popular as a
pub atmosphere with live music and venue for live acts, arts events and
outdoor tables, such as the Caffè del tango lessons, it’s a favourite with
Molo and Bar al Duomo at Cefalù. students from the nearby university.
















Pavement cafés near Piazza Olivella, Palermo




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Nights Out ❮❮ 73

Agorà, Catania
7 TOP 10 FEATURES OF THE
MAP G4 • Piazza Currò 6
This lively bar and restaurant owes PASSEGGIATA
its unique atmosphere to the cool 1 The Walk
stream of water flowing through its The key to the walk on the passeggiata
cave area. The site has been in use is to do it very slowly.
since ancient Roman times, and now 2 See
it lies below Catania’s youth hostel Everybody checks out everybody else
(see p147), in the centre of town, for everything from physical attributes
beside the fish market. to their fashion sense to how well
behaved their children are.
3 Be Seen
Wear the latest fashions, whether
Dolce & Gabbana catwalk originals
or market-stall copies.
4 When and Where
The prime time is Sunday afternoon
or any day from dusk onwards. Walk
around a piazza, down a corso or
promenade, or anywhere people
happen to gather.
5 Who
From babies in prams to teens to
grandparents, to entire families,
couples and groups of friends, this
is an open event.
6 The Touch
Everyone holds hands or entwines
Airy Kursaal Kalhesa restaurant arms with their walking partners.
Kursaal Kalhesa,
8 7 Food
The only things the Italians consume
Palermo
MAP P5 • Foro Umberto I 21 • 340 while in motion are gelato or peanuts
or similar small snacks.
157 3493 • www.kursaalkalhesa.it 8 Men with Earpieces
A bar, restaurant, café, music venue Pocket radios allow sports fans to stay
and bookshop in one, this place is abreast of the partita (football match)
housed in a 15th-century palazzo. It or Formula Uno motor racing.
has an outdoor restaurant attracting 9 By Car
an eclectic crowd. It is LGBT friendly. Locals drive the passeggiata with the
Zo, Catania
9 win dows down so that they can chat.
10 Spectator Sport
MAP G4 • Piazzale Asia 6 • 095
7463122 • www.zoculture.it If you prefer, feel free to sit and watch
the passeggiata go by. A table outside
This dynamic arts and cultural centre a café is the perfect spot.
is located in the same former sulphur
works as Le Ciminiere (see p51). It
hosts local and international perform-
ances of music, dance and theatre, as
well as temporary exhibitions. There
is a café and restaurant, too.
Lapis
0
• www.lapis.it
This free publication has complete
listings of music, theatre and art
events. Separate editions are printed Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina
in Palermo and Catania.




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74 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Wines and Wine Producers


Monreale
1 Perricone, and charac terized by its
intense ruby colour and flavour of
MAP C2
Monreale has produced fine wines aromatic herbs. It’s produced over
for centuries from indigenous grapes, the entire eastern half of the island
such as Perricone, Inzolia, and but the two largest producers are
Catarratto, as well as Chardonnay. between Palermo and Cefalù:
Try at the Calatrasi Principe di Regaleali and Duca di Salaparuta.
Camporeale or Sellier de la Tour.
Artisan Producers
4
Many artisan producers are
making great wines. Look out for COS,
Fondo Antico, Occhipinti, Graci, Frank
Cornelissen, Palari, Girolamo Russo,
La Moresca and Terra delle Sirene.
Malvasia and Passito
5
Producers on Salina leave
their Malvasia delle Lipari grapes to
dry out on the vine or on mats to
concen trate the flavours to make a
dessert wine that is thick and sweet.
Pantelleria’s Zibibbo grapes are
Marsala wine in production treated in a similar way, left on the
vine until the flavours have condensed
Marsala
2 to make a dessert wine with intense
tastes of dried fruits and vanilla.
A fortified wine produced in
Marsala since the 18th century (see
Bianco d’Alcamo
p101). A DOC (Denominazione di 6
Origine Controllata) was awarded in Eighty per cent Catarratto
1986. Marsala is produced as Fine, with a dash of Damaschino,
Superiore (aged at least two years), Grecanico and Trebbiano make up
Riserva (aged at least four years) or this dry and fruity white. Abundant
Vergine and Soleras (aged at least 10 production (more grapes are grown
years). From Inzolia, Catarratto and in Trapani than any other Sicilian
Grillo grapes, the wine is amber with province) made this the classic
a citrus flower and almond perfume. Sicilian white. The area from San
Vito Lo Capo to Castellammare and
Nero d’Avola
3 inland to Alcamo and Calatafimi is
under DOC protection.
This is the classic Sicilian red,
made from at least 80 per cent of
grapes of the same name with added Road through Alcamo vineyards












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Wines and Wine Producers ❮❮ 75

Regaleali
7 TOP 10 GRAPE VARIETIES
MAP E3
This estate has been in
the Tasca d’Almerita family
since 1830. Famous for
traditional Sicilian wines,
their reds, based on
Nero d’Avola, include
Regaleali Rosso and the
Rosso del Conte; whites,
mainly of Inzolia and
Regaleali’s their own Varietà Tasca,
Nero include Villa Tasca and
d’Avola Nozze d’Oro. Bunch of Zibibbo grapes
Erice
8 1 Zibibbo
The grape of Pantelleria, used
This wine is from grapes in the
Erice valley, and varieties run from traditionally for the sweet passito, is
now also popular for crisp white wines.
white to red to sweet dessert (passito). 2 Nero d’Avola
One of the best is the Syrah from the This powerhouse Sicilian red grape
Casa Vinicola Fazio winery. is cultivated in the eastern half of
the island.
3 Frappato
Cultivated in Ragusa province, the
primary grape of Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
4 Grillo
A white grape indigenous to western
Sicily and the basis of Marsala and
other whites.
5 Inzolia
Also called Ansonica, a white grape
found throughout western Sicily, used
in Marsala and other wines.
6 Nerello Mascalese
Primary red grape grown on the slopes
of Mount Etna, blended with Nerello
Cappuccio to make the deep, spicy
Vineyards near the base of Etna Etna Rosso.
Etna Bianco and Etna
9 7 Malvasia di Lipari
Responsible for the fragrant wines of
Rosso
Sicily’s first DOC was awarded in 1968 Salina, rich in flavours of almond and
candied fruits.
to the southern and east ern zone of 8 Catarratto
Mount Etna, where the white grapes A white grape grown from Marsala
Cataratto and Carricante flourish. to Alcamo, Salina and Etna. Its
Reds, mostly the Nerello Mascalese, character changes depending
grow at the volcano’s base. on the micro climate.
9 Grecanico
Cerasuolo di Vittoria
0 White grape native to western Sicily
The cherry-red, dry and fruity
and one of the primary components
wine is made from an interesting of Bianco d’Alcamo.
blend of Frappato, Calabrese and 10 Pollico
Nerello grapes grown near Vittoria in The oldest variety known on the
Ragusa. Established producers are island, these white grapes are used
buying vineyards here to produce to make Moscato wine.
their own versions of Cerasuolo.



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76 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Sicilian Dishes


Pasta
3
The amazing variety
of pasta dishes available
makes use of all the bounty
that Sicily has to offer. A
typical Palermitan dish
is pasta con le sarde (with
sardines, fennel, pine nuts,
raisins and anchovies). The
pasta itself, made with local
durum wheat, is firm and
full of flavour.
Spleen
4
Sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs and raisins Sandwiches
It takes a lot of curiosity
Fish and Seafood
1 to choose to sink your teeth into
this classic street food staple.
There is always an excellent
choice of fish and seafood in Sicily. The sandwich can be either plain
Look out for sogliola (sole), triglie (schettu, single) or topped with
(red mullet), pesce spada (swordfish), grated cheese (maritatu, married).
tonno (tuna), mazzancolla (large More daring versions come
sweet prawns), aragosta (spiny with crunchy trachea bits.
lobster), sarde (sardines),
Gelato
polpo (octopus), calamaro 5
(squid) and gambero rosso The reason
(red prawns). Sicilian ice cream
(gelato) is so special is
Caponata
2 its base: a crema devel-
Originally a fish
oped from Arab and
dish, caponata was Lemon ice cream Spanish culinary influ-
adapted by the cucina ences that is made
povera (kitchen of the poor) as a with milk, or almond milk, as well
slow-cooked mix of aubergine as starch. It produces a rich, smooth
(eggplant), tomato, celery, capers, and light dessert (see p110).
olives, raisins and pine nuts,
Cassata and Cannoli
flavoured with vinegar and sugar, 6
and topped with toasted almonds. These classic Sicilian desserts
are made with lightly sweetened
ricotta. In cassata, ricotta and sponge
cake are covered with mar zipan and
decorated with candied fruits.
Cannoli are fried pastry shells filled
with ricotta, candied fruit and
chocolate chips.
Meat
7
Excellent lamb and
pork are produced in Sicily.
Sausages are always spiced
and made with semi di finocchio
(fennel seeds), stuffed in narrow cas-
Traditional Sicilian caponata ings and formed into continuous coils.
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Sicilian Dishes ❮❮ 77

Panelle
8 TOP 10 LOCAL PRODUCE
Another snack food available
from street vendors are these small
squares of fried batter made from
chickpea flour and a sprinkling of
parsley, then topped with salt and
lemon juice. They are often served
in a sandwich.
Arancini
9
A Sicilian fast-food treat that
is available in bars and from street
vendors. Balls of rice are stuffed with
a meaty tomato or vegetable ragù or Sicilian blood oranges
with ham and cheese, rolled in
breadcrumbs, and fried. 1 Citrus Fruits
Excellent lemons (there is a small,
sweet variety) and oranges (with
numerous blood-red varieties) abound.
2 Cheese
Sicilian cheese comes from cow’s
or sheep’s milk. Look for primo sale
or aged pecorino, tuma, caciocavallo
and Ragusano.
3 Ricotta
A cheese by-product used for sweet
and savoury dishes. Available fresh,
baked, or salted and aged (called
Tasty, round, golden arancini ricotta salata).
Bread
0 4 Capers
From tiny buds to the huge cucunci, the
Bread in Sicily is made from
grano duro (semolina flour), and once best come from Salina and Pantelleria.
5 Vegetables
baked it is dense and golden. The Amazing bounty awaits at market-
shapes are particular too, including places and restaurants. Don’t miss
braided loaves. Bread is used in the long skinny cucuzza (squash)
main dishes – mollica are spiced and and spicy red garlic.
toasted breadcrumbs, used instead 6 Salt
of cheese on top of pasta. Look for Richly flavoured salt has been
sfincione, similar to a thick-crust harvested from the sea near
pizza eaten as a snack, and focacce, Trapani since Phoenician times.
thin baked layers of dough filled with 7 Durum Wheat
greens, sausage, ricotta or tomato. The secret behind Sicily’s flavourful
bread and pasta. The countryside
is covered with wheat fields.
8 Almonds and Pistachios
Eastern Sicily is known for its
production of these high-quality
and richly flavoured nuts.
9 Tuna
You’ll find this fish preserved in
oil and fresh in a variety of cuts.
10 Olives and Olive Oil
Millions of olive trees produce
excellent-quality table olives
and thick, green aromatic olive oil.
Bread in an array of shapes






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78 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Restaurants


Majore, Chiaramonte
1 of the day and pairs them with
Gulfi
locally sourced ingredients. Start
It’s worth the trek to Majore, perched with a hearty portion of linguine alle
on a hilltop with fine views over the vongole, followed by a main of sarde
Ragusa plains. This simple rest- a beccafico, all washed down with a
aurant, in the back of a butcher’s local white wine (see p97).
shop, has been serving the finest
Ristorante Fidone Maria,
pork dishes since 1896, including a 4
range of salami antipasti (see p131). Frigintini
Maria Fidone and her family can be
found in the kitchen at their homely
trattoria, preparing hearty Ragusan
meals for dinner. Everything is made
in-house, including the pasta, bread,
olive oil and liqueurs. For a first
course, choose the thick broad-bean
soup (lolli) or homemade pasta. For a
second course, try stuffed chicken
accompanied by stuffed aubergines
(eggplants) (see p131).
La Cialoma,
5
Majore is through the doorway Marzamemi
In the great atmosphere of the piazza
Ristorante Duomo,
2 of Marzamemi, La Cialoma occupies
Ragusa Ibla
the ancient tuna fishery of Prince
Chef Ciccio Sultano carefully sel- Villadorata’s family. The name is a
ects ingredients for his traditional Sicilian term for the work songs
Ragusan dishes, but adds his own sung by tuna fishermen of old. La
twist. In three small, bright dining Cialoma has a small menu and a big
rooms, every course is excellent. wine list. The food is fresh, simple
Two different tasting menus let you and nicely prepared: try the excellent
try a bit of everything (see p131). marinated sardines or, in season, the
simple and delectable tuna braised
Piccolo Napoli, Palermo
3 with laurel (see p131).
Arguably the best fish
restaurant in town, Piccolo Napoli Tables in the piazza at La
serves up only the freshest catches Cialoma, Marzamemi

















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Restaurants ❮❮ 79



Aeolian Isola Lipari
Islands
San Vito
lo Capo Palermo Messina
A20
Trapani Termini Cefalù Patti S113
S187 A29 Monreale Imerese S113 A20 Monti Nebrodi A18
Alcamo S114
Marsala Val di Mázara Corleone M. Madonie Randazzo Mount Taormina
S120
A29 S121 A19 Nicosia Etna
Castelvetrano A19 Adrano Aci Castello
S115 Caltanissetta
Ribera Enna
S189 S640
Canicattì Palagonia S417
Caltagirone Lentini Augusta
S117 Chiaramonte A18
S115
Mediterranean Gulfi Syracuse
S ea Licata Gela Frigintini
Ragusa Noto S115
0 kilometres 50
Modica Marzamemi
0 miles 50
Osteria Nero d’Avola,
6
Taormina
Creative yet unimposing dishes
of local fish come from the open
kitchen. Turi the chef is a hunter, so
look for game in season. He offers
seasonal and local ingredients
prepared well and without too many
flourishes. The restaurant also
stands out for its reasonable prices,
which is rare in Taormina (see p115). The calm interior of Accursio
Cantina Siciliana,
Accursio, Modica
7 9
Trapani
This Michelin­starred
Chef Pino Maggiore serves Trapani’s restaurant is set within an old
classic kus kus al pesce (fish cous­ palazzo in the heart of Modica. The
cous) in a quaint interior in the old head chef uses the best of Sicily’s
Jewish ghetto. He also offers pasta land­based and seafood produce,
dishes (including the sublime pesto then puts a modern twist on the
alla Trapanese, with tomatoes, garlic, classics. The arancino, for example,
almonds and basil), mains and is served on a plate and stuffed with
desserts (try ricotta­filled cassateddi). ricotta and prawns (see p131).
The wine list is Sicilian (see p105). Pocho, San
La Madia,
Vito lo Capo
8 0
Licata
The terrace at Pocho
Chef Pino Cuttaia’s offers pretty views of
dishes dazzle. The Monte Cofano and the
seven­course tasting bay. The restaurant’s
menu is a culinary owner, Marilú Terrasi,
experience that merits is well­known for her
his two Michelin stars. couscous, and the
A cuttlefish “egg” extensive wine list is
served with squid ink made up of selected
couscous is a typically Seafood dish at Sicilian labels
inventive dish (see p123). La Madia (see p105).
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p97
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80 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Pasticcerie and Gelaterie


Verona & Bonvegna,
1
Catania
MAP G4 • Via Asiago 60
Undoubtedly the best pasticceria and
gelateria in Catania, and one of the
very best in Sicily. You can watch
the skilled pastry chefs at work, cre­
ating mouthwatering masterpieces
such as little filled ricotta doughnuts
and their famed cannoli. Takeaway
only, and there may well be a queue. Fruit pastries at Pasticceria Cappello
Pasticceria Cappello,
Cistercian Monastery,
2 4
Agrigento
Palermo
The nuns at the monastery of the MAP K1 • Via Colonna Rotta 68;
Santo Spirito still offer pastries from MAP J2 • Via Nicolo Garzilli 19
behind the grate. They may look Two branches sell among the best
like something you’ve seen at other pastries in Palermo. The setteveli
shops, but take a bite and taste how cake, featuring seven different­
special they are. Order ahead for the flavoured chocolate layers, is an
speciality, sweet couscous (see p33). unmissable experience.
Pasticceria Russo, Santa
Pasticceria Artigianale
3 5
Grammatico Maria, Erice
Venerina, near Catania
MAP G4 • Via Vittorio Emanuele 105 Maria Grammatico spent many years
Since 1880 the Russo family has in the orphanage inside Erice’s
been making Catanese pastries with cloistered San Carlo monastery,
fine local ingredients, such as honey, learning the nuns’ centuries­old
pistachios, almonds and oranges. recipes for their dolci, the sale of
which provided their keep. The
Elegant interior of Pasticceria Russo sweets are the opposite of monastic
life: colourful and luxurious. Try
sospiri (sighs), cuori (hearts) and
cuscinetti (little pillows; see p104).
Caffè Sicilia, Noto
6
MAP G5 • Corso Vittorio
Emanuele 125
For more than a century, the
Assenza family has been at
work in the maze­like laboratory
of the Caffè Sicilia. They hunt down
the highest­quality ingredients
in the region, working to preserve
the Sicilian pastry­making tradition.
They create pastries from the recipes
of Noto’s ex­monastery of Santa
Chiara as well as from their own
recipes, such as chocolates with
carob, chestnut or sweet basil
filling, giuggolena (sesame seed,
honey and orange zest bar) and
herb­infused honey.



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Pasticcerie and Gelaterie ❮❮ 81

Gelateria Stancampiano,
7 TOP 10 DESSERTS
Palermo
MAP D2 • Via Giovanni Campolo 94
This unassuming family-owned shop
has the creamiest gelato in Sicily. The
bow-tied staff proudly offer rows and
rows of traditional and seasonal
flavours served in cones, cups and
brioches. It’s worth the walk.
Antica Dolceria
8
Bonajuto, Modica
MAP G6 • Corso Umberto I 159 Cassata with spring flowers
Fig-filled nucatoli and citrus and
honey torrone are displayed in this 1 Cassata
small, elegant shop. Their chocolate Layers of sponge cake and ricotta
is still made using the ancient Aztec cream covered with colourful marzipan
and candied fruits (see p76).
method of working the cocoa with
sugar and spices. 2 Gelato
Try soft and creamy gelato, zabaglione,
semi freddo or the solid pezzo duro.
3 Gelo di Melone
The delectable watermelon jelly is
infused with jasmine essence and
topped with chocolate chips.
4 Cannoli
Ricotta cream of different flavours
in fried pastry tubes (see p76).
5 Frutta di Martorana
Marzipan sculpted and painted to
look like real fruit or other edibles.
6 Biscotti della Regina
Hard biscuits rolled in sesame seeds.
Treats at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto 7 Cassateddi
Fried pastry pockets filled with ricotta
Donna Elvira Dolceria,
9 flavoured with choco late, lemon or
Modica
cinnamon, eaten at breakfast time.
MAP G6 • Via Risorgimento 32 8 Coseduce or Cuccidati
Elvira Roccasalva reproduces by Traditional fig-filled biscuits that exist
hand the sweets formerly made under various names in every part of
by Modica’s cloistered nuns. She the island. Elaborate versions are made
also uses the best-quality ingredients for St Joseph’s Day (see p86) and
from the region to create her own called squartucciati.
recipes: try the carato, made with 9 ‘Mpanatigghi
carob flour, raisins and almonds. These Modican empanadas, imported
by the Spanish Counts, are a pastry
Pasticceria Arturo,
0 crust filled with chocolate, spices
and ground beef.
Randazzo
MAP G3 • Via Umberto 73 10 Granita
This pastry shop specializes Ice is added to
in sweets made with local flavourings such
as jasmine, wild
pistachios, Sicilian almonds and strawberry or almond.
hazelnuts. Try the spicy pistachio
pastries and excellent granita
while sitting in the marble interior Orange granita
or outside, enjoying the view.



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82 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Specialist Shops and Areas






















Catania’s premier shopping area around Via Etnea
Palermo and Catania
Ceramiche De
1 4
Simone, Palermo
On and around Palermo’s Via
della Libertà (see p95) and Catania’s This shop sells brightly coloured
Via Etnea (see p114) you can shop in ceramics with designs of jolly peasant
Italy’s fashionable, classic stores for farmers and fishermen going about
household linens, clothing, shoes and their daily tasks (see p95).
handbags. Both boulevards offer a mix
Silva Ceramica,
of stores, boutiques and chic cafés. 5
Caltagirone
Le Colonne, Taormina
2 MAP F4 • Piazza Umberto I, 19
In a courtyard off the piazza, Silva
Here you’ll find elegant
jewellery on Taormina’s Corso. Ceramica produces imitations of
The proprietor makes each piece antique designs, including tiles.
crafted to her own design, inspired
Altieri 1882,
by antique and historical 6
motifs. Chunky necklaces Erice
of heavy gold with precious Altieri produces ceramics
gems and rings set with in traditional styles as well
antique incised stones are all as with their own innovative
unique items (see p114). designs. There are also pieces in
gold, silver and coral made in the
Ceramiche d’Arte
3 decorative arts tradition of the
F.lli Soldano,
Sciacca Trapani region (see p104).
Farrugio Design,
MAP C4 • Piazza Saverio 7
Friscia 15 Unique jewellery Catania
Alongside shops selling from Le Colonne MAP G4 • Via Ughetti 3
Sciacca’s traditional green, The artisan craft of
yellow and blue ceramic dishes, the jewellery making has been handed
Soldano family produces traditional down from father to son at Farrugio.
ceramics and modern designs on They are considered one of the finest
tableware and tiles. goldsmiths in Italy.
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Specialist Shops and Areas ❮❮ 83

Siculamente, Ragusa
8 TOP 10 MARKETS
MAP F5 • Piazza Duomo 11
Run by three young Sicilian
entrepreneurs, here you can buy
“T-scierts”, caps, buttons and such
with intriguing designs full of anti-
Mafia symbolism and poignant
sayings in Sicilian dialect. These
include the fatalistic Futtatinni (Don’t
worry about it) or this romantic
description of Sicily: Unni l’aceddi ci
vannu a cantari e li sireni ci fannu
l’amuri (Where the birds go to sing Produce at La Vucciria market
and the mermaids go to make love).
1 La Vucciria, Palermo
Enoteca Picone,
9 MAP M4
Palermo
One of Palermo’s oldest markets, where
To call Enoteca Picone a “wine bar” vendors really put on a show.
would hardly do it justice. Founded in 2 Trapani
the 1940s, it started life as a hole-in- MAP B2
the-wall that sold wine directly from Each morning fishermen arrange their
the cask to the consumer, but now it catch along the wharf, yelling out its
is the place to go for its range of over merits or holding it aloft.
500 Sicilian, Italian and international 3 Selinunte
wines. It’s popular for pre-dinner MAP B4
drinks, where you can sample your A lively 7am fish auction. Don’t miss it.
choice of wine accompanied by a 4 Ballarò, Palermo
platter of local meats and cheeses MAP L6
(see p95). Palermo’s most interesting market sells
fish, produce and household goods.
5 Del Capo, Palermo
MAP J4
Step back into 19th-century Palermo in
the Mandamento del Capo streets,
crowded with farmers, housewives,
butchers and every sort of meat.
6 Syracuse, Ortygia
MAP H5
Rows of mussels, cherries, almonds,
lemons – or what ever is in season.
7 Sciacca
MAP C4
“Non-Mafia” goods at Punto Pizzo Free Monday to Friday, in the afternoon,
Punto Pizzo Free,
0 fishermen sell their catch on the wharf.
8 Donnalucata
L’Emporio, Palermo
An emporium in the heart of the city MAP F6
Each morning, under awnings along
selling traditional products, books the wharf, fishermen sell their catch.
and crafts gathered from shops 9 Catania
around Palermo whose owners have MAP G4
banded together refusing to pay the Catania’s market is famous for the
pizzo (the infamous Mafia protection variety of fish and the rowdy vendors.
money). There’s safety in numbers, 10 Impromptu Markets
but these people are still on the front All over Sicily, farmers sell their own
line, and their courage cannot be produce, such as artichokes, lemons
overstated. Buy a T-shirt, support or cheese from the side of the road.
the cause (see p95).




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84 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Sicily for Free


Roman Ruins, Palermo
1
MAP K6 • Within Villa
Bonanno, Piazza della Vittoria
Not as extensive and lavish as the
villa at Piazza Armerina (see p30),
this site nonetheless offers a glimpse
into Roman daily life in the late 2nd
century AD – with vivid mosaic floors,
statues, spas and outdoor latrines.
Byzantine church in a
2
Roman bathhouse,
Catania
MAP G4 • Piazza Mecca • 095 7150
508 • Open 9am–1pm Wed & Sun;
call to book on other days
A monumental complex dating back
to the Romans encloses the remains
of a lavish bathhouse, which a few Fine-looking Villino Florio
centuries later became a Byzantine
Villino Florio, Palermo
church. Look out for frescoes. 5
MAP J3 • 38 Viale Regina
Roman Odeon, Taormina
3 Margherita • 091 7025471
MAP H3 • Opposite Palazzo
• Open 9am–1pm Tue–Sat
Corvaja Villino Florio, a testament to the
Not as famous as the Teatro Antico, city’s Belle Epoque era, had its
the Roman Odeon is still a great spot interior destroyed by a fire. It is now
to visit. Discovered by chance in 1893, restored to its original splendour.
it dates back to the Octavian era and
Caravaggio in Syracuse
was built on the remains of a temple. 6
MAP H5 • Santa Lucia alla
The White Cliffs of Sicily
4 Badia (Piazza Duomo) • Open 11am–
On the southern coast between 4pm Tue–Sun
Realmonte and Porto Empedolce, the This Baroque church holds one of
limestone cliffs have been shaped Caravaggio’s greatest and largest
into steps by the elements. Known works, The Burial of St Lucy (1608).
as La Scala dei Turchi, they are a
popular seaside destination. White cliffs of La Scala dei Turchi

















Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Sicily for Free ❮❮ 85

Museo della Manna,
7 TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
Pollina
MAP E2 • Piazza Duomo • Open
10am–1pm daily & 4pm–7:30pm
Thu–Sun
This museum is in the heart of the
Madonie Mountains, where manna
(a natural sweetener) is harvested
from ash trees. It pays tribute to this
centuries-old tradition and offers an
insight into local farming and
agricultural traditions.
Regional sights and
8 Ferry from Panarea Island
museums, first Sunday
of each month 1 Take ferries instead of hydrofoils
The Greek Theatre at Syracuse, the Ferries are cheaper than the faster
hydrofoils, and you can sit outside to
Valle dei Templi in Agrigento and take in the spectacular views.
Palazzo Abatellis in Palermo are
some of the sights that are free on 2 Buy a day pass for the bus
the first Sunday of each month. A €3.50 giornaliero ticket allows travel
on buses until midnight, including the
Many municipal and local museums 389 to Monreale.
are free every day to under
18s and over 65s; always 3 Half-price admission tickets
ask before entering. A full-price admission ticket can often
allow half-price entry to other places.
Always ask if a site belongs to an
association of museums.
4 Aperitivo rinforzato
These nightly happy hours offer buffet
food with your drink. Plates of seafood,
pasta and cured meats can substitute
for dinner – at a fraction of the price.
5 Hire a bicycle in Palermo
The city’s bike-sharing programme
allows visitors to get around town and
travel in areas closed to traffic. Drop-off
Valley of the Temples, Agrigento points in 50 places (www.amat-pa.it).
Museo Archeologico
9 6 Hop-on, hop-off tour buses
A hop-on, hop-off bus tour offers a
Regionale, Licata
cost-effective way to see as many sites
MAP E5 • Via Dante 12 • 092 2772 as possible.
602 • Open 9am–1pm Tue–Sat, 7 Buy produce at outdoor markets
4–6pm Thu & Sat Avoid supermarkets, where possible,
This small yet impressive museum and shop at the markets as the locals do.
houses artifacts dating back to 8 Drink house wine
prehistoric times, as well as a rich Ask for a carafe of vino della casa
collection of local Greek and Roman (house wine) instead of a whole bottle.
finds. Keep an eye out for the Greek- 9 Street food
era steel-and-gold jewellery. Staples such as panelle (chickpea
Sagre (food festivals)
0 fritters) and arancini (rice balls) are fast
food in Sicily, with generous portions
Most towns hold an annual
that end up being an entire meal.
sagra – a celebration of speciality 10 Return long-distance bus tickets
food, which is a great opportunity to Buy a return ticket for long-distance
mix with the locals. Try Palermo and buses, as these are often discounted.
Bronte (see p87).


084-085_Top_10_Sicily.indd 85 30/10/2017 17:04

86 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Feasts and Processions


traditional foods – but
no meat, out of respect
for St Joseph’s poverty.
Good Friday,
4
Noto
Mar/Apr
The Holy Thorn is
processed through the
streets accompanied by
the black-veiled Grieving
Madonna, whilst a drum
keeps a somber tempo
and a trumpet lets out a
mournful blast.
Good Friday,
5
Trapani
Mar/Apr
Crowds at the festival of Sant’Agata, Catania A solemn procession
depicting the Passion
Sant’Agata, Catania
1 of Christ. Tableaus are decorated
with flowers and bands play funeral
Early Feb
One of the earliest saints, Agata dirges in the streets.
was martyred in Catania’s Piazza
Stesicoro. The bejewelled reliquary
bust of the saint is paraded around
town followed by fanciful golden
“candlesticks” so large that each
one is hauled on the backs of 10
men. Balconies are draped in fabrics,
flags fly, candles burn and fireworks
blast at dawn.
Carnevale, Sciacca,
2
Termini Imerese,
Acireale Good Friday procession, Trapani
Feb
Easter Sunday,
The narrow streets of these towns 6
are packed with revellers for parades, Castelvetrano
parties and competitions. Papier- Mar/Apr
mâché floats satirize current events On Easter Sunday in Castelvetrano a
or figures of popular culture. celebration of Christ’s Resurrection
takes place in Piazza Carlo d’Aragona.
San Giuseppe,
3 The Festa dell’Aurora (Feast of Dawn)
Belice Valley
draws crowds to watch the statue of
18–19 Mar Mary, dressed in a black cape of grief,
St Joseph’s Day is celebrated enter the square from one side, while
fervently in the west, especially Christ, wearing white, enters from the
in villages such as Salemi and other. To a dramatic drumbeat, the
Poggioreale. Altars are construc ted two come together. Mary’s black cape
in homes, schools and public spaces, falls away to reveal a bright dress,
piled high with ornate breads and music plays and everyone cheers.

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
086-087_Top_10_Sicily.indd 86 30/10/2017 17:04
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Feasts and Processions ❮❮ 87

Santa Rosalia, Palermo
7 TOP 10 FOOD FESTIVALS
Mid-Jul
For six days the relics of Rosalia, ACROSS SICILY
which are said to have saved 1 Festival di Cannolo, Palermo
Palermo from the plague in 1624, Late Apr
are paraded around the streets on The art and tradition of the cannolo is
top of an ornate vera (float). celebrated at San Lorenzo market.
2 Sagra del Carciofo, Cerda
25 Apr
Artichoke festival; music in the piazza.
3 Mostra dei Formaggi della Valle
del Belice e Sagra della Ricotta,
Poggioreale
Late May or early Jun
Watch ricotta made in traditional and
modern methods.
4 Festa della Ciliegia, Chiusa
Sclafani
1st or 2nd Sun in Jun
Cherry festival; tradi tional folk music.
5 Inycon, Menfi
Late Jun–early Jul
Wine festival with food, music, dance
and crafts.
6 Sagra delle Sarde, Selinunte
Late Aug–early Sep
A procession of the Madonna of the
Fishermen and a sardine feast.
Celebrations in Palazzolo Acreide 7 Couscous Fest, San Vito lo Capo
San Sebastiano and San
8 Last week in Sep
Chefs compete in an international
Paolo, Palazzolo Acreide
San Paolo: 29 Jun; San Sebastiano: couscous contest, with tastings.
8 Sagra del Pistacchio, Bronte
10 Aug Late Sep–early Oct
The land owners and farmers loyal to A lively week-long festival dedicated
San Paolo and the merchants and to the tasty local nut.
artisans loyal to San Sebastiano try to 9 Sagra della Cipolla, Giarratana
out-celebrate each other with huge Mid-Aug
statues of the saints. Worshippers Savour dishes made with local flat,
process barefoot well into the night. sweet onions.
Festival of the
9 10 Ottobrata Zafferanese
Every Sun in Oct
Assumption, Randazzo
All over Zafferana Etnea, a fair of local
15 Aug wine, chestnuts, cheese and honey.
One of the most spectacular floats of
all is paraded from Piazza di Santa
Maria through the narrow streets to
Piazza Loreto. The tall float carries
young local boys dressed as angels,
saints, Jesus and the Madonna.
Santa Lucia, Syracuse
0
Mid-Dec
A silver statue of Syracuse’s patron
saint travels from the Duomo to the
Chiesa di Santa Lucia, while the faith- Couscous festival
ful attach votive eyes to her image.




086-087_Top_10_Sicily.indd 87 30/10/2017 17:04

Sicily

Area by Area













Picturesque resort of Cefalù













































Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1)
088-089_Top_10_Sicily.indd 88 30/10/2017 17:04
Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Palermo 90
Northwest Sicily 98
Northeast Sicily 108
Southwest Sicily 116
Southeast Sicily 124
























































088-089_Top_10_Sicily.indd 89 30/10/2017 17:04

90 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Palermo


Settled by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC,
Palermo fell first to the Romans, then to the Arab
invaders, who chose Palermo for their capital, making
the city one of the most magnificent and powerful
in the world. This splendour was compounded
during the Norman reign, which brought a
western influence to the island. Today the
remains of earlier ages coexist with each
other and with modern life: laundry billows off
balconies of 15th-century palaces; buses
rumble past even older buildings displaying
a mix of east and west. Buildings destroyed in
World War II have been left open to the sky, but
Sicilians are ever resourceful: restaurants seat
diners in crumbling, yet romantic courtyards,
while a once-dilapidated church has a new
Ancient Greek
terracotta vessel role as an atmospheric arts venue.

PALERMO
80 metr Cen Central Palermotral Palermo Gr Greater Palermoeater Palermo
80 metres (88 yards)es (88 yards)
DOMENICO SCIMA
CORSO
CORSO
VIA CATANIA
VIA CATANIA VIA GAETAN VIA ISIDORO LA LUMIA DOMENICO SCIMA VIA DELL’O OLIMPO 0 km 0 km 2 2 2 2
VIA AGRIGENTO
VIA AGRIGENTO
0 miles
0 miles
VIA SIRACUSA
VIA DELL’O OLIMPO
V I A C A R I N I
V. BENEDETTO GRAVINA
V I A C A R I N I
V IA PRI N C IPE D I VIA MESSINA
VIA EMERICO AMARI
PIAZZA
PIAZZA V. BENEDETTO GRAVINA VIA FRANCESCO CRISPI
STURZ STURZOO
VIA AMMIRAGLIO GRAVINA
VIA AMMIRAGLIO GRAVINA
VIA ISIDORO LA LUMIA
V IA PRI N C IPE D I
VIA DE O DAITA
VIA GAETANO DAITA
VIA DEI MARE
VIA DEI MARE
VIA TULATI
VIA GUGLIELMO V I L VIA MESSINA LLA LIBERTA VIA TULATI VIA EMERICO AMARI L UNGOMARE CRISTOFORO COLOMBO
MARCONI
VIA SIRACUSA VIA DELLA LIBERTA
PIAZZA VIA SAMMUZZO
PIAZZA
V. XX SETTEMBRE
VIA SAMMUZZO
V. XX SETTEMBRE
VIA MARIANO STABILE
POLITEAMAMA
POLITEA VIA VIA E90 VIALE STRASBURGO VIALE DEL FANTE VIALE DIANA
VIA FRANCESCO CRISPI
ONORATO
MARCONI L A F R A N C A
VIA GUGLIELMO V I LL A F R A N C A
E90
VIA DANTE VIA PAOLO VIA MARIANO STABILE ONORATO
VIA DANTE
VIALE DIANA
VIA PAOLO
L UNGOMARE CRISTOFORO COLOMBO
VIALE DEL FANTE
V. FRANCESCO GUARDIONE
PATERNOSTRO VIA O LI V IA SETTIMO V. FRANCESCO GUARDIONE PIAZZA XIII VIA FILIPPO PATTI VIALE MICHELANGELO
PATERNOSTRO A
VIALE STRASBURGO
VIA O LI V I
VITTIMEVIA FILIPPO PATTI
PIAZZA XIII
VIALE MICHELANGELO
VIA ROMA
VIA ROMA
VITTIME
VIA SAMMARTINO
VIA SAMMARTINO
V. PRINCIPE DI SCORDIA
V. PRINCIPE DI SCORDIA
VIA HOUEL
VIA HOUEL VIA S. MECCIO SETTIMO O VIA CAVOUR See map lef
See map leftt
VIA RUGGER
VIA CAVOUR
VIALE LEOARDO DA VI NCI
VIA RUGGERO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA S. MECCIO
S. FRANCESCO O
S. FRANCESC PIAZZA PIAZZA V. SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA DEI BARILAI VIALE LEOARDO DA VI NCI
VIA PIGNATELLI AR AGONA
VIA PIGNATELLI AR AGONA VERDI
DI PA DI PAOLAOLA VERDI VIA VIA La C E90 E90
La C alaala
VALVERDE
VIA NICOLO
VIA NICOLO VALVERDE V. SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA DEI BARILAI VIALE VIALE
VIA VOLTURNO
TUNISI TUNISI VIA VOLTURNO VIA VIA ROMA GIUSEPPE PITRÈ
GIUSEPPE PITRÈ
VIA MURA DI VIA
SAN VITO SCARLATI
VIA ERNEST O BASILE
PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA MURA DI VIA DELL VIA DELLA CA LA
CORSO CALATAFIMI
VITTORIO
VITTORIO SAN VITO SCARLATI VIA TRABIA V. MESSINA M ARINE
EMANUELE PORTA CARINI VIA V I A V I A PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA CORSO CALATAFIMI
EMANUELE
V. CASSARI A CA LA
VIA ROMA
VIA TRABIA
V. MESSINA M ARINE
VIA
ORLANDO PORTA CARINI V. SANT' AGOSTINO MAQ U E SAN DOMENIC VIA GARATELLO V. CASSARI MARINA FORO ITALICO VIA ERNEST O BASILE
ORLANDO
SAN DOMENICOO
VIA BARI Garibaldi SS186 SS186
VIA BARI
Giar
Giardinodino
VIA NAPOLI
VIA NAPOLI
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
Garibaldi
CAPPUCCINELLE CAPO PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI CANDELAI DA V. LUNGA RINI VIA ALLORO V I A B U T E R A
CAPPUCCINELLE
V. LUNGA RINI
V. DELLE
V. DELLE
VIA GARATELLO
CATTEDRALE VI T TOR IO E MA N U EL E
FORO ITALICO
BEATI
BEATI
VIA DEI CANDELAI
PAOLI
PAOLI
CAPO
VIA DEL CELSO
VIA DEL CELSO
VIA ALLORO
V. SANT' AGOSTINO MAQ U E DA
MARINA V I A B U T E R A
VIA
VIA
PIAZZA
D’OSSUNA
D’OSSUNA PAPRIE PAPRIETOTO VIA MATTEO V IA VI T TOR IO E MA N U EL E PIAZZA MAGIONE SS624 SS624 VIA VILLAGRAZIA VIA VILLAGRAZIA
BELLINI
PIAZZA
BELLINI
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
BONELLO
BONELLO
VIA MATTEO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA
V I A
MAGIONE
C A L D E R A I
PIAZZA
PIAZZA DELLA
PIAZZA
RIVOL
CATTEDRALE
RIVOLUZIONEUZIONE
V IA V I A MAQ C A L D E R A I PIAZZA DELLA V IA V IA
V I A I M E R A
V I A I M E R A
D'ARAGONA C A S T R O FI LI PP O
D'ARAGONA C A S T R O FI LI PP O
VI A PO R TA D I C AS TR O
V I A R OMA
PIAZZA VIA R OMA
PIAZZA DELLA V I A MAQ U E DA
PIAZZA DELLA
0 metreses
PIAZZA PIAZZA VITTORIA 0 metr 400 400
VITTORIA
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
LA POR LA PORTATA VI A PO R TA D I C AS TR O V I A D I B O S CO 0 yar 0 yardsds 400 400
V I A D I B O S CO U E DA
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
090-093_Top_10_Sicily.indd 90 30/10/2017 17:04
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Palermo ❮❮ 91

Palazzo Abatellis
1
MAP P4 • Via Alloro 4
• Open 9am–6:30pm Tue–
Fri, 9am–1pm Sat, Sun &
hols • Adm
Sicily’s regional fine arts
museum is housed in the
15th-century palace of a
Spanish official. Highlights
include a 15th-century
fresco of the Triumph of
Death (see p50).
San Domenico
2 Church and piazza of San Domenico
Church, Oratorio
del Rosario and the Vucciria Domenico, burial place of notable
MAP M3 • Church of San Domenico: Sicilians (see p46). Rebuilt in the
Piazza S Domenico; open 9am–1pm Baroque style in 1640, the façade
Mon–Sat; adm • Oratorio del Rosario: is 18th century. Behind the church
Via dei Bambinai; open 9am–12:30pm is a Baroque chapel, the Oratorio
Mon–Sat del Rosario, with an altarpiece by
Bordering the Vucciria market (see Anthony Van Dyck.
p83) to the north is the Church of San
La Martorana and San
3
PALERMO Cataldo
MAP L5 • Piazza Bellini 3 • La
Central Palermotral Palermo
80 metres (88 yards)es (88 yards)
DOMENICO SCIMA
80 metr Cen Gr Greater Palermoeater Palermo Martorana: open 8:30am–1pm &
CORSO
CORSO
VIA CATANIA VIA GAETAN VIA ISIDORO LA LUMIA DOMENICO SCIMA VIA DELL’O OLIMPO 0 km 0 km 2 2 2 2 3:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 9–10:30am
VIA CATANIA
VIA AGRIGENTO
VIA AGRIGENTO
Sun & hols; adm • San Cataldo: open
0 miles
0 miles
VIA SIRACUSA
9:30am–12:30pm & 3–6pm daily
VIA DELL’O OLIMPO
V. BENEDETTO GRAVINA
V I A C A R I N I
V I A C A R I N I
V IA P R I NC I P E D I VIA MESSINA
VIA EMERICO AMARI
PIAZZA PIAZZA V. BENEDETTO GRAVINA VIA FRANCESCO CRISPI In Piazza Bellini there are two
VIA AMMIRAGLIO GRAVINA
STURZ STURZOO splendid churches. The little
VIA AMMIRAGLIO GRAVINA
V IA P R I NC I P E D I
VIA ISIDORO LA LUMIA
VIA DE O DAITA
VIA GAETANO DAITA
VIA DEI MARE
VIA DEI MARE
VIA TULATI
MARCONI
VIA GUGLIELMO V IL VIA MESSINA LLA LIBERTA VIA TULATI VIA EMERICO AMARI L UNGOMARE CRISTOFORO COLOMBO mid-12th-century San Cataldo
VIA SIRACUSA VIA DELLA LIBERTA
has three Arab-style, bulbous red
PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA SAMMUZZO
VIA MARIANO STABILE
V. XX SETTEMBRE
VIA SAMMUZZO
V. XX SETTEMBRE
POLITEA VIA VIA E90 VIALE STRASBURGO VIALE DEL FANTE VIALE DIANA domes in a row, latticed windows
POLITEAMAMA
VIA FRANCESCO CRISPI
ONORATO
E90
MARCONI L A F R ANC A
VIA GUGLIELMO V IL L A F R ANC A
VIA DANTE
VIA DANTE VIA PAOLO VIA MARIANO STABILE ONORATO PIAZZA XIII VIA FILIPPO PATTI and an elegant, bare interior. La
VIALE DIANA
VIA PAOLO
L UNGOMARE CRISTOFORO COLOMBO
VIALE DEL FANTE
V. FRANCESCO GUARDIONE
PATERNOSTRO
V. FRANCESCO GUARDIONE
PATERNOSTRO A
VIA O LI V IA
Martorana has a Norman bell
VIALE STRASBURGO
VITTIMEVIA FILIPPO PATTI
VIALE MICHELANGELO
PIAZZA XIII
VIA ROMA
VIA ROMA
VIA SAMMARTINO
VIA SAMMARTINO
V. PRINCIPE DI SCORDIA
V. PRINCIPE DI SCORDIA
VIA HOUEL
VIA HOUEL VIA O LI V I VIA S. MECCIO SETTIMO VIA CAVOUR VITTIME VIALE MICHELANGELO See map lef tower (c 1140), a 16th-century
Baroque façade and original
See map leftt
VIA CAVOUR
VIA RUGGER
VIALE LEOARDO DA VI NCI
SETTIMO O
VIA RUGGERO
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA S. MECCIO
S. FRANCESCO O
S. FRANCESC PIAZZA PIAZZA V. SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA DEI BARILAI VIALE LEOARDO DA VI NCI mosaic decoration (see p46).
VIA PIGNATELLI AR AGONA
DI PA DI PAOLAOLA VERDI VIA VIA La C La C alaala E90 E90
VIA PIGNATELLI AR AGONA VERDI
VALVERDE
VIA NICOLO VALVERDE V. SQUARCIA-LUPO VIA DEI BARILAI VIALE VIALE
VIA NICOLO
VIA VOLTURNO
TUNISI TUNISI VIA VOLTURNO VIA VIA ROMA GIUSEPPE PITRÈ Ceiling of La Martorana
GIUSEPPE PITRÈ
VIA MURA DI VIA
SAN VITO SCARLATI
VIA ERNEST O BASILE
PIAZZA
PIAZZA VIA MURA DI VIA DELL VIA DELLA CA LA
CORSO CALATAFIMI
VITTORIO
VITTORIO SAN VITO SCARLATI VIA TRABIA V. MESSINA M ARINE
EMANUELE PORTA CARINI VIA V I A V I A PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA CORSO CALATAFIMI
EMANUELE
V. CASSARI A CA LA
VIA TRABIA
VIA ROMA
PIAZZA
V. MESSINA M ARINE
VIA
ORLANDO PORTA CARINI V. SANT' AGOSTINO MAQ U E SAN DOMENIC VIA GARATELLO V. CASSARI MARINA FORO ITALICO VIA ERNEST O BASILE
ORLANDO
SAN DOMENICOO
VIA BARI Giar Garibaldi SS186 SS186 Top 10 Sights
VIA BARI
Giardinodino
VIA NAPOLI
VIA NAPOLI
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
Garibaldi
CAPPUCCINELLE
CAPPUCCINELLE CAPO PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI CANDELAI DA V. LUNGA RINI VIA ALLORO V I A B U T E R A see pp91–3
VIA GARATELLO
V. DELLE
V. DELLE
V. LUNGA RINI
CATTEDRALE V I T TOR IO E MA N U EL E
FORO ITALICO
BEATI
BEATI
VIA DEI CANDELAI
PAOLI
PAOLI
VIA DEL CELSO
CAPO
VIA DEL CELSO
VIA ALLORO
V. SANT' AGOSTINO MAQ U E DA
MARINA V I A B U T E R A
Places to Eat
VIA
VIA
PIAZZA
D’OSSUNA
D’OSSUNA PAPRIE PAPRIETOTO BONELLO BONELLO V IA V I T TOR IO E MA N U EL E PIAZZA PIAZZA MAGIONE SS624 SS624 VIA VILLAGRAZIA VIA VILLAGRAZIA see p97
BELLINI
BELLINI
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA MATTEO
VIA MATTEO
Places to Shop
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA
V I A
MAGIONE
see p95
C A L D E R A I
C A L D E R A I
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA DELLA
V IA V I A MAQ V I A R OMA PIAZZA DELLA V IA V IA The Best of the Rest
RIVOLUZIONEUZIONE
RIVOL
CATTEDRALE
see p94
V I A I M E R A
V I A I M E R A
D'ARAGONA C A S T R O FI LI PP O
D'ARAGONA C A S T R O FI LI PP O
VI A PO R TA D I C AS TR O
PIAZZA VIA R OMA
PIAZZA DELLA
PIAZZA DELLA V I A MAQ U E DA Nights Out
0 metres
PIAZZA PIAZZA VITTORIA 0 metres 400 400
VITTORIA
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
LA POR LA PORTATA VI A PO R TA D I C AS TR O V I A D I B O S CO 0 yards 400 400 see p96
0 yards
V I A D I B O S CO U E DA
090-093_Top_10_Sicily.indd 91 30/10/2017 17:04

92 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

The New City
Quattro Canti
4 7
MAP L5
MAP J1
The wide, tree-lined boule vard Via The heart of town is the intersection
della Libertà travels west from the of Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio
Teatro Politeama, where the modern Emanuele. Called the Quattro Canti
city begins, full of shops and cafés. It (the four corners that divide Palermo
passes the Giardino Inglese, laid out into quadrants), each is swathed in
with palms, to Piazza Vittorio Veneto sculptural decoration. The town hall
and Royal Park (La Favorita), once a is in the Piazza Pretoria, although
royal hunting ground. the square is more commonly known
as the Piazza della Vergogna (Square
Albergheria
5 of Shame), after the shameless
MAP K6 & L6
nudes perched around the edge of
Bordered by Via Vittorio Emanuele the elaborate fountain, originally
and Via Maqueda, this rather run- intended for a Florentine garden.
down residential area is a maze of
streets strung with billowing laundry.
The heart of the neighbourhood is the
Ballarò market (see p83). Don’t miss
the 17th-century Chiesa del Carmine
on Via Gio vanni Grasso, with its
stuccoed interior and frilly,
polychrome cupola.
Museo Archeologico
6
Regionale Antonio
Salinas
MAP L3 • Piazza Olivella 24 • Open
9:30am–6:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–
1:30pm Sun & public hols • Adm Boats moored at La Cala harbour
The museum displays finds from
La Cala and Piazza
western Sicily, from the Neolithic age 8
to the Roman period. Among Punic Marina
and Egyptian objects is the Palermo MAP N3
Stone (c 2700 BC), with a hieroglyphic Yachts bobbing in the small port of
inscription. There are also Greek La Cala can be seen from the 15th-
vases, Roman sculpture, century church of Santa Maria della
and Archaic and Classical Catena, while palaces line the Piazza
metopes recovered from Marina. In the centre of the lovely
Selinunte (see pp36–7). gardens is a statue of Garibaldi (see
p43). The 1582 Porta Felice leads out
to the Foro Italico and the seafront,
for good waterside walks.
Palermo Cathedral displays
elements of its Norman past














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Palermo ❮❮ 93


A MORNING IN LA KALSA AND
THE MAFIA ALBERGHERIA
During centuries of absentee sovereign Antica
power, Sicilians distrusted government, Via A Paternostro Focacceria
built a loyalty to their own (la cosa Palazzo
nostra) and relied on justice given out Abatellis
by local bosses. After Unification (1860) Piazza Santissimi Piazza LA KALSA
Quaranta Martiri
Palazzo
landowners used thugs for protection d'Aragona Ajutamicristo
and the underworld system thrived. Via
Santa Maria
Using crime to create fear and form Chiesa del Maqueda dello Spasimo
alliances, the Mafia infilitrated society. Gesù
Via
Ballarò
Garibaldi
La Kalsa
9 Market Chiesa del Carmine
MAP N5 • Bordered by Foro
Italico, Via Lincoln, Garibaldi & Alloro From Via Maqueda take the
Piazza Santissimi Quaranta
La Kalsa is the northeast quadrant of Martiri up to the Chiesa del Gesù
old Palermo, where the Arab popu- for a look at the wild Baroque
lation established their government decoration of the interior.
offices. It was heavily bombed during Beyond the church, enter the
World War II, but the once-derelict streets taken over by Ballarò
area has been gent rified in recent market (see p83) and spend some
time weaving your way through
years. There are jewels to be discov- the overloaded stalls. For a late
ered on nearly every corner: look breakfast, stop at one of the stalls
out for the dec adent Rococco-style serving panelle (see p77) or fried
Oratorio di San Lorenzo; the awe- aubergine (eggplant) sandwiches.
inspiring and imposing Norman From Piazza Ballarò, pass
church La Magione, the former through the old neighbourhood
headquarters of the Teutonic and by the Chiesa del Carmine,
knights; and the Catalan-Gothic with its colourful dome, and take
Santa Maria della Catena church. the Via Case Nuove to Via
Maqueda. Head into La Kalsa on
Norman Palermo
0 Via Gorizia to Via Garibaldi 43,
where you can still see parts of
The splendid Norman
kingdom in Sicily was marked by the magnificent original structure
of the Palazzo Ajutamicristo.
an exotic mix of cultures which is Continue down to Santa Maria
manifested in the buildings dating dello Spasimo (see p96), where
from the era (see pp12–13). Palermo there may be contemporary art
became a fine example of the best on view. Take the residential Via
Norman architecture and decoration. della Vetreria to Via Alloro and
Seek out the Palazzo dei Normanni the regional fine arts museum
in Palazzo Abatellis (see p91)
and the Cathedral, which combine designed by Matteo Carnalivari.
western and Arabic styles.
Go south on Via Alloro until the
Piazza d’Aragona and take a
right turn into Via A Paternostro
to the Piazza San Francesco. Have
lunch at the Antica Focacceria (see
p97), sitting in the piazza under
the Gothic façade of San Francesco,
or in the marble and wrought-
iron interior, where you can
watch the chefs serving up
Sicilian specialities such as
caponata (see p76). For dessert,
there’s always good gelato to be
found at one of the gelaterie in
the piazza.
See map on pp90–91
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94 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Palazzo Belmonte Riso
Porta Nuova
1 5
MAP L5 • Via Vittorio
MAP J6
This imposing gateway to the city Emanuele 365 • Open 10am–7:30pm
was erected in 1569 as a triumphal Tue, Wed & Sun, 10am–11:30pm Thu–
arch to commemorate Charles V’s Sat • Adm
victory in Tunis. The Museum of Modern Art exhibits
inter national and Sicilian artists here.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
6
MAP M5 • Via Sant’Anna 21
• Open 9:30am–6:30pm Tue–Sun
Contemporary international art
in a splendid convent.
Museo Internazionale
7
Façade of the Porta Nuova delle Marionette Antonio
Pasqualino
Castello della Zisa
2 MAP P4 • Piazzatta A Pasqualino 5
• Open 10am–2pm Mon & Sun,
MAP D2 • Piazza Zisa 1
• Open 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–6pm Tue–Sat • Adm
9am–1pm Sun & hols • Adm An extensive collection of worldwide
The palace has stalactite-style ceilings, puppet traditions (see pp68–9).
interior fountains, mosaic decor ation
Museo di Zoologia
and a collection of Arab art. 8
P Doderlein
Palazzo Mirto
3 MAP P6 • Via Archirafi 16 • 091
MAP N4 • Via Merlo 2
23891819 • Open 9am–1pm
• Open 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sat, Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat • Adm
9am–1pm Sun • Adm Discover Sicily’s diverse animals and
One of the few surviving aristocratic learn about evolution at this museum.
palazzi in Palermo. The lavish interior
Cappuccini Catacombs
has 18th- and 19th-century furnish- 9
ings and allegorical frescoes. MAP D2 • Piazza Cappuccini 1
• Open 9am–1pm, 3–6pm daily
Oratorio di Santa Zita
4 (closed Sun pm Nov–Mar) • Adm
Burial site of Palermo’s upper
MAP M3 • Via Valverde 3 • 091
332779 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm classes (1599–1881).
Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat; Nov–Mar:
Mondello
9am–6pm Mon–Sat • Adm 0
The interior of this chapel is covered MAP D2
with stucco decoration and Giacomo This fishing village became a trendy
Serpotta’s master piece (c 1600). resort in the 19th century (see p60).
View of Mondello’s port






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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Palermo ❮❮ 95

Places to Shop


Via della Libertà
1
MAP J1
Upscale Italian chains line the
boulevard between the Teatro
Politeama and Piazza Crispi: try Frette
(No. 36) for linens, Furla (No. 14) for
leather goods, Michael Kors (No. 35)
for luxury acces sories and Max Mara
(No. 16/a) for women’s fashions.
Via Enrico Parisi
2
MAP J1
For menswear, step just off Via della
Libertà to find high fashion at Uomo
Store (No. 21/c) and chic boutiques Shopping in Palermo’s markets
such as Visiona Uomo (No. 17/10).
Markets
Afterwards, stop in at the equally 7
chic Il Baretto, round the corner on Some of the best shopping
Via XX Settembre 43, for an aperitivo. in Palermo happens at the three
daily food markets. They are well
Ceramiche De Simone
3 worth visiting even if you don’t
MAP L3 • Via Cavour 38
intend to buy anything (see p83).
The de Simone family has been
Punto Pizzo Free,
producing high-quality hand- 8
painted ceramics for gene rations, L’Emporio
with designs of jolly Sicilian MAP M4 • Via Vittorio
farmers and fisher men. Emanuele 172
The traditional products
La Coppola
4 sold here come from
Storta
various boutiques around
MAP L3 • Via Bara the city, the owners of which
all’Olivella 72 have courageously refused
The traditional Sicilian cap to pay the pizzo, or Mafia
has been given a new lease protection money (see p83).
of life thanks to this innova-
Vincenzo Argento
tive store. All sorts of hats 9
are available. MAP L5 • Via Vittorio
Emanuele 445
Rinascente
5 Sicilian caps for sale at For four generations the
Argento family has been
MAP M4 • Via
Roma 289 La Coppola Storta prac tising the art of pup-
Italy’s most upmarket department petry. They make traditional puppets
store has an outlet on this busy in the Palermitan style (see p68) for
shopping street. There’s a good sale and to use in rousing shows in
selection of Italian haute couture their nearby theatre (see p69).
and accessories, and a particularly
Franco Bertolino
good houseware department. 0
MAP K5 • Salita Artale 8,
Enoteca Picone
6 corner Piazza Settangeli
Hand-painted carrettini, traditional
MAP J1 • Via Marconi 36
As well as over 7,000 different Sicilian miniature carts, are sold
beverages, you’ll find olive oil here along with beautifully crafted
and cheeses (see p83). papier-mâché figures and fruit.
See map on pp90–91
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96 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Nights Out


Santa Maria dello
5
Spasimo
MAP P5 • Via dello Spasimo • 091
6161486 • Open 9:30am–6:30pm
Tue–Sun • Adm
Lo Spasimo is a bombed-out church
that acts as an amazing venue for
an art gallery and a full programme
of films and concerts (classical,
contemporary, jazz), romantically
staged in the roofless nave
and garden space.
Associazione Culturale
6
Palab
MAP K6 • Via Fondaco Palazzo Reale 5
• 091 6515527 • www.palab.it
A combination of cultural centre,
theatre, music and comedy club,
cinema, cocktail bar, pizzeria and
restaurant, this place is always
bustling with activity.
Via dei Chiavettieri
Impressive Teatro Massimo 7
MAP M4
Teatro Massimo
1 This pedestrian street is buzzing well
MAP K3 • Piazza Verdi • Guided into the early hours of the morning.
tours • www.teatromassimo.it It is lined with clubs and pubs, many
Palermo’s historic theatre reopened with outside tables and live music.
in 1997 after a major restoration
Teatro Co-Op Agricantus
effort. It stages lyrical opera, ballet 8
and symphonic concerts. MAP J1 • Via XX Settembre 82/a
• 091 309636 • www.agricantus.org
Teatro di Verdura
2 Agricantus is a performing arts
co-op staging high-quality theatre
MAP N1 • Viale del Fante 70
Opera, ballet, concerts and plays are and music, particularly for children.
presented in summer in this outdoor
Piazza Olivella
theatre in the garden of the former 9
villa of the Prince of Castelnuovo. MAP L3
At night the piazza between Teatro
Teatro Politeama
3 Massimo and Via Cavour fills up with
Garibaldi
university students hanging out in
MAP K2 • Piazza Ruggero Settimo the many bars lining the square.
• 091 6072511/2532
La Cuba
This Neo-Classical theatre was 0
opened in 1874. The season offers MAP N2 • Via Sperlinga, Viale
symphonic concerts and ballet. Francesco Scaduto 12 • 091 300846
This multipurpose venue in the
Teatro Biondo Stabile
4 beautiful Villa Sperlinga, a little
way out of central Palermo, draws
MAP L4 • Via Roma 258
• 091 7434341 a smart crowd with good food,
Founded by the Biondo brothers as drinks and a programme of
a centre for experimental theatre. live music and DJs.
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Size 100mm x 191mm

Palermo ❮❮ 97

Places to Eat


Cin Cin
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP K1 • Via Manin 22
• 091 6124095 • Closed Sun • €€ For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
Tucked away on a side street, the taxes and extra charges.
Italian-American Vincenzo melds € under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70
traditional Sicilian with a touch of
the American South. Creative cuisine. Lilla e Totuccio
Piccolo Napoli
2 5
MAP L3 • Via Bara all’Olivella 91
MAP K2 • Piazzetta Mulino a
• 320 292 6255 • No credit cards • €
Vento 4 • 091 320431 • Closed Sun This street-food eatery frequented
• €€ by young Palermitani offers a buffet
Try the pasta with lobster or any fish of simple, tasty food, including pasta
dish at this family-run trattoria in the dishes. Even with wine, it’s a bargain.
little market square behind the Teatro
Ferro di Cavallo
Politeama Garibaldi (see p78). 6
MAP L4 • Via Venezia 20
Osteria Mercede
3 • 091 331835 • Closed Sun • €
Join the locals at this casual trattoria
MAP K3 • Via Pignatelli
Aragona 52 • 091 332243 not far from the Quattro Canti for
• Closed Mon & Tue lunch • € traditional fare and fantastic people-
Near Teatro Massimo, this small watching opportunites.
place serves delectable fish dishes
Freschette
that marry tradition and innovation. 7
The chalkboard menu changes daily MAP L3 • Piazzetta
according to the catch. Monteleone 5 • 091 9820727
• Closed Mon • €
An organic, vegetarian café and
market with plenty of local produce
for sale and on the menu.
Zia Pina
8
MAP M4 • Via Cassari 69
• 331 981 4546 • €
There may be brusque service and
shabby decor at Zia Pina, but it
serves arguably the best seafood
in town, and at a bargain price.
Osteria dei Vespri
9
MAP M5 • Piazza Croce
dei Vespri 6 • 091 6171631
• Closed Sun • €€€
Airy interior of Antica Focacceria A chic spot in a palazzo used in
Visconti’s film The Leopard.
Antica Focacceria
4 Bye Bye Blues
MAP M4 • Via A Paternostro 58
MAP D2 • Via del Garofolo
(Piazza S Francesco) • 091 320264 0
• Closed mid-Jan • € 23, Mondello • 091 6841415
Palermitan fast food and main • Closed Mon • €€€
courses under the façade of San Excellent Sicilian ingredients are
Francesco. Sandwiches, panelle chosen for inventive dishes at this
(see p77), focaccia and pasta. Michelin-starred eatery.
See map on pp90–91
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98 ❯❯ Sicily Area by Area

Northwest Sicily


Much of this area was inaccessible until relatively recently and
presents unique opportunities to wander through fishing villages,
watch shepherds at work and witness a way of life that has survived
for centuries. The coast and offshore islands are pristine, while
the mountainous interior has some of the harshest terrain in Sicily.
Farmers still use mules in their fields, though younger generations
are developing vineyards to produce high-quality Sicilian wines.










Blue waters and rocky cliffs of the Egadi Islands

NORTHWEST SICILY
Capo Gallo
Isola delle
Isola delle Capo Gallo
Femmine
Femmine
Capo San Vito Mondello
Capo San Vito
Mondello
San Vito lo Capo
Aeroporto
Aeroporto
T yrrhenian
T yrrhenian San Vito lo Capo Falcone-Borsellino
Falcone-Borsellino
S ea S ea
Terrasini
Golfo di Cófano
Golfo di Cófano Terrasini Palermo Capo Capo
Palermo
Carini
Lo Zingaro
Cast Castelluzzoelluzzo Lo Zingaro Carini Golfo di Zafferano
Zafferano
Golfo di
Palermo
Palermo
Solunto
Castellammare
Golfo di Bonagia Castellammare Montelepre Solunto
Montelepre
Golfo di Bonagia
Custonaci del Golfo Monreale
Custonaci
del Golfo
Monreale
Bagheria
Scopello Balestrate
Erice Erice Scopello Balestrate Partinico Misilmeri Bagheria
Partinico
Misilmeri
Marettimo Valderice Altofonte A19 A19 S113 S113
Altofonte
Marettimo
Valderice
Isola di Levanzo Trapani
Isola di Levanzo Trapani S113 S113 Piana degli
Piana degli
Levanzo A29 A29 Albanesi S121 S121 Altavilla
Levanzo
Albanesi
Altavilla
Milicia
Lago
Egadi
Egadi Paceco Fulgatore Poma Lago Marineo Milicia
Fulgatore
Marineo
Poma
Paceco
Alcamo
Favignana IslandsIslands
Segesta
Favignana A29dir A29dir Segesta Alcamo San San Lago di Piana
Lago di Piana
Cipirello degli Albanesi
Aeroporto di
Aeroporto di Cipirello degli Albanesi
Trapani-Birgi
Trapani-Birgi Ummari Villafrati
Villafrati
Ummari
Rilievo
Calatafimi
Camporeale
Isole dello
Isola Isola Isole dello Rilievo Calatafimi Camporeale
Favignana Stagnone
Favignana Stagnone S115 S115 A29 A29 Ciminna
Ciminna
Motya
Motya Vita Vita Mezzojuso
V a l d i M á z a r a
Mezzojuso
Roccamena
Gibellina
Tabaccaro
Tabaccaro V a l d i M á z a r a Salemi Gibellina Roccamena
Salemi
Vecchia
Marsala
Marsala Vecchia
Lago di
Santa
Santa Lago di Campofiorito
Garcia
Garcia
Campofiorito
Ninfa
Ninfa
Mázaro Mázaro Partanna Contessa
Contessa
Partanna
Strasatti Lago della A29 A29 Santa Entellina
Strasatti
Lago della
Entellina
Santa
Trinità
Pizzolato
Pizzolato E931 E931 Trinità Margherita
Margherita
Montevago
Bisacquino
Pantelleria
Pantelleria Castelvetrano Montevago di Belice Bisacquino
Castelvetrano
di Belice
100 k 100 km (62 miles)m (62 miles)
Campobello
Chiusa
Campobello Belice Belice Chiusa
A29 A29 di Mazara Sambuca Sclafani
Sclafani
di Mazara
Sambuca
di Sicilia
Mazara del S115 S115 di Sicilia
Mazara del
Menfi
Vallo
Vallo Menfi
0 kilometreses
0 kilometr 15 15 Porto Palo Burgio
Burgio
Porto Palo
0 miles 15 15 Selinunte
0 miles
Selinunte
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Size 100mm x 191mm