GA MLA ST AN 49
2. Livrustkammaren CITY
Sweden’s oldest museum Strömmen
displays royal weaponry,
clothing and carriages
from over five centuries.
The picture shows Gustaf II
Adolf’s stallion Streiff, from GAMLA STAN
the battle of Lützen in 1632. Riddarfjärden
SÖDER
Locator Map
Kungsträdgården See Street Finder map 4
1. Kungliga Slottet
The southern façade of
the royal palace has a
triumphal central arch
with four niches for
statues, created by
French artists in the
18th century.
SKePPSbron
SLoTTSbacKen
Slussen
Gustav III’s statue was
Ö S T e L Å n G G aTa n
sculpted by J T Sergel in 1799 in
K Ö P M a n G aTa n memory of the “charming king”
who was assassinated in 1792.
STor- Köpmantorget with
TorGeT statue of St George Slay
ing the Dragon (1912).
3 Kungliga Myntkabinettet
In a 16th-century setting, the Royal
Finska Kyrkan, Slotts backen’s Coin Cabinet has the world’s largest
oldest building, dates from the stamped coin, dating from 1644.
1640s. It was originally a court
for ball games for the palace,
but since 1725 it has been the
religious centre for the Finnish 4 Tessinska Palatset
community. Built by and for Nicodemus Tessin the
Younger, architect of the Royal Palace,
Key 0 metres 100 in 1694–7, this palace has been the
residence of the Governor of
Suggested route 0 yards 100 Stockholm County since 1968.
048-049_EW_Stockholm.indd 49 18/11/15 2:50 pm
50 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
1 Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace)
Defensive installations or castles have stood on the island
of Stadsholmen ever since the 11th century. The Tre Kronor
(Three Crowns) fortress was completed in the mid-13th
century, but during the following century it became a
royal residence. The Vasa kings turned the fortress into a
Renaissance palace, but this burned to the ground in 1697.
In its place the architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger
created a new palace in Roman style with an Italianate exterior . Changing of the Guard
and a French interior toned down by Swedish influences. Stockholm’s most popular tourist
The palace’s 608 rooms were decorated by Europe’s foremost event is the daily changing of the
artists and craftsmen. King Adolf Fredrik was the first king to guard, which takes place at
midday in the Outer Courtyard.
move into the palace, in 1754. It is no longer the king’s private
residence, but remains one of the city’s leading sights.
Entrance to the
The Western State Apartments
Staircase
Tessin was
especially proud of
the two stair cases,
made from Swedish
marble and
porphyry. On the
western staircase
stands a bust of the
gifted architect.
. The Hall of State
This opulent hall has an
atmosphere of ceremonial
splendour and forms an
ideal setting for Queen
Kristina’s silver throne,
probably the palace’s Entrance to the
most famous treasure. Treasury and
Royal Chapel
KEY
1 The Guest Apartments
2 The Bernadotte Apartments
are situated on the floor below
Karl XI’s Gallery.
3 Tre Kronor Museum entrance
from Lejonbacken.
4 Carl Hårleman played an
important role in the design of the The Royal Chapel
palace. His bust adorns this niche. This delightful little
church has a rich
5 Logården is the terrace between
the palace’s east wings. interior decorated by
many different artists.
6 Livrustkammaren (see p54). The pulpit is the work
of J P Bouchardon.
050-051_EW_Stockholm.indd 50 19/09/17 12:00 pm
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Date 23rd October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
GA MLA ST AN 51
Gustav III’s State Bedchamber VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sergel’s bust of Gustav III (1779)
stands in the room where the king Practical Information
died after being shot at the Opera Gamla Stan.
House. The decor by J E Rehn dates Map 4 B2.
from the 1770s. Tel 08-402 61 30.
∑ kungahuset.se
The Royal Apartments, The
Treasury, Gustav III’s Museum of
Antiquities, Tre Kronor Museum:
. Karl XI’s Gallery Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily
One of the most (Jul & Aug: from 9am); Oct–Apr:
magnificent rooms 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Closed
in the palace, this during official functions of the
fine example of Court. 8 tours in English at 1 &
Swedish Late 2pm. & ^ 7 =
Baroque is used for The Royal Chapel: Open Jun–Aug:
banquets hosted by noon–4pm Wed & Fri. 5 Mass
the king and queen. 11am Sun (year round). ^ 7
In the cabinet is this Travel information
priceless salt-cellar Gamla Stan, Kungsträdgården.
dating from 1627–8.
@ 2, 43, 55, 71, 76.
Gustav III’s Museum
of Antiquities
The museum’s
collection includes
antique statues
brought home by
Gustav III from his
journey to Rome.
A Royal Workplace
The king and queen have their offices at the palace,
where they hold audiences with visiting dignitaries
and host official ceremonies. They travel around the
country attending special events, official openings
and anniversaries, and
they make regular
State visits abroad. The
king is well known for
his interest in the
environment while
the queen is heavily
involved with her work
for children, especially King Carl XVI Gustav
the disabled. and Queen Silvia
050-051_EW_Stockholm.indd 51 19/09/17 12:01 pm
52 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Exploring the Royal Palace
The public areas of the Royal Palace allow you to walk
through grand rooms of sumptuous furnishings and priceless
works of art and craftsmanship. The Hall of State and the
Royal Chapel are both characterized by their magnificent
lavish decor and Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities contains
ancient marble sculptures from the king’s journey to Italy.
The palace also houses the Treasury with the State regalia;
the Tre Kronor Museum, which depicts the palace before
the 1697 fire; and the Livrustkammaren (see p54). The Pillar Hall in the Bernadotte
Apartments with original decor
drawing room.
Gustav III’s State The Bernadotte
Apartments
Bedchamber, where
the king died after This magnificent suite has
being shot at the earned its name from the
Opera House in 1792 gallery displaying portraits of
(see pp24–5), is the the Bernadotte dynasty. The
height of Gustavian apartments have some notable
elegance. Along ceiling paintings and mid-18th-
with Queen Sofia century chandeliers, and are
Magdalena’s State used for many a ceremonial
Bedchamber, it was occasion. The elegant Pillar Hall
designed by the is the venue for invest itures, and
architect Jean Eric the East Octagonal Cabinet,
Rehn. The lintels on with probably the palace’s best
the doors to the Don Rococo decor, is where the king
Karl XI’s Gallery, the finest example of the Late Baroque Quixote Room, named receives for eign ambassadors.
period in Sweden after the theme of Along with the western cabinet,
its tap estries, feature its interior has remained just as it
paintings by François Boucher was planned by Carl Hårleman
The State Apartments and are among the palace’s more than 250 years ago.
The royal family has lived at most treasured pieces. Oscar II’s very masculine
Drottningholm Palace (see Writing Room, dating from
pp146–49) since 1982, but The Guest Apartments the 1870s, also still looks much
official functions, including as it did in his day. However,
banquets hosted by the king An imposing part of the palace, it is clear the palace was kept
during visits by foreign heads of these apartments are where up to date with technical
state, still take place in the royal visiting heads of state stay. The advances. Electricity was
palace’s State Apartments. beautiful rooms include the installed in 1883, and the
Other official dinners are staged Meleager Salon, where official telephone only one year later.
here, as well as the fes tivities gifts and decorations are ex-
held every year to honour the changed, and a large bedroom The Hall of State
Nobel laureates. with a sculp ted and gilded
Banquets are served bed. Other impressive Rococo and Classicism were
in Karl XI’s Gallery, the rooms are the Inner Salon, brought together in perfect
finest example of Swedish with decor inspired by the harmony by the architects
Late Baroque, modelled on excavations in Pompeii, and Nicodemus Tessin the Younger
the Hall of Mirrors at the Margareta Room, named and Carl Hårleman, when they
Versailles. Each window after the present king’s designed the two-storey Hall of
is matched with a grandmother and State. It provides a worthy
niche on the inner displaying some framework for Queen Kristina’s
wall, where some of the King Karl XIV pictures painted by her. silver throne, a gift for the
palace’s priceless works Johan’s egg cup The apartments coronation in 1650 and one of
of arts and crafts are contain remarkable the most valuable treasures in
exhibited. Most remarkable is works of crafts manship by such the palace. The throne was given
the salt-cellar made from ivory 18th-century masters as the to the Queen by Magnus Gabriel
and gilded silver designed by cabinet-maker Georg Haupt de la Gardie and was made in
the Flemish painter Rubens (see p84), chair-maker Ephraim Augsburg, Germany, by the
(1577–1640). The room known Ståhle and the sculptor Jean goldsmith Abraham Drentwett.
as “The White Sea” serves as a Baptiste Masreliez. The canopy was added 100
052-053_EW_Stockholm.indd 52 19/09/17 12:01 pm
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Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
GA MLA ST AN 53
years later for the coronation of It also has some rare relics of
King Adolf Fredrik and was the original Tre Kronor fortress:
designed by Jean Eric Rehn. new benches that had been
The decor of the Hall of ordered by Tessin. They had
State is lavish. Colossal been rescued during the palace
sculptures of Karl XIV Johan fire in 1697 and preserved but
and Gustav II Adolf flank the not put in the chapel until the
throne, while those on the 19th century. The benches
cornice symbolize Peace, were made by Georg Haupt,
Strength, Religion and Justice. grandfather of the cabinet-
Until 1975 the Hall of State maker of the same name who
was the scene of the ceremo nial was to create some of the Erik XIV’s crown, made by Cornelis
opening of the Swedish palace’s most prized furnishings. ver Weiden in Stockholm in 1561
Parliament (Riksdagen), which
included a march past of the uncrowned King Carl XVI Gustaf.
royal bodyguard in full regalia. Gustav III’s Museum The 1-m (3-ft) high silver
of Antiquities
It is now used more for other baptismal font, which took the
official occasions and, like the Opened in 1794 in memory French silversmith Jean François
Royal Chapel, is a venue for of the murdered king, the Cousinet 11 years to make, is
summer concerts (see pp176–7). Museum of Antiquities 200 years old and is still used for
initially housed more than royal baptisms. Hanging in the
200 exhibits, mainly acquired Treasury is the only undamaged
during Gustav’s Italian journey tapestry among six dating from
in 1783–4 and then sup- the 1560s, salvaged from the
plemented with more 1697 fire.
purchases later.
In 1866 the museum’s
collection was moved to the Tre Kronor Museum
city’s National Museum (see In the oldest parts of the ruined
pp84–5). During the 1950s the Tre Kronor fortress, preserved
main gallery was renovated, under the north side of the royal
followed by the smaller galleries palace, is the Tre Kronor (Three
30 years later, which enabled Crowns) Museum. About half
the collection to be returned of a mas sive 12th-century
to its original setting. defensive wall and brick
The most prized exhibits are vaults from the 16th and 17th
in the main gallery, the best centuries provide a unique
known being the sculpture setting for the museum, which
The Hall of State, the most impor tant of Endymion, the eternally illustrates the palace’s history
ceremonial room in the palace sleeping young shepherd and of almost 1,000 years.
lover of the Moon Goddess Two models of the Tre Kronor
Selene. The 18th-century fortress show changes made to
The Royal Chapel sculptor Johan Tobias Sergel is the fortress during the second
It took 50 years to build the represented by The Priestess, half of the 17th century and
Royal Palace, and a lot of effort ranked as the collection’s how it looked by the time of the
went into the French Rococo second most important piece. fire. Among items rescued from
interior decoration of the Royal She is flanked by two large the ashes are a schnapps glass,
Chapel. The work was carried candelabras. amber pots and bowls made
out largely by Carl Hårleman from mountain crystal.
under the supervision of The Treasury
Nicodemus Tessin the Younger.
As with the Hall of State, the co- Situated at the bottom of 56
operation be tween the two well-worn steps, below the Hall
produced a magnificent result, of State on the south side of the
enhanced by the contributions palace, is the entrance to the
of several foreign artists. The Treasury (Skattkammaren),
chapel was completed when where the State regalia, the
the palace reopened in 1754. most potent symbols of the
A number of remarkable monarchy, are kept.
artifacts have been added over On the rare occasions that
the centuries. The most recent King Erik XIV’s crown, sceptre,
was a group of six 17th-century- orb and the keys of the kingdom
style bronze crowns, as well as are taken out of their showcase, A glass bowl saved from the 1697 fire,
two crystal crowns. they are placed beside the displayed in the Tre Kronor Museum
052-053_EW_Stockholm.indd 53 19/09/17 12:01 pm
54 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
2 Livrust kammaren 3 Kungliga
Myntkabinettet
Slottsbacken 3. Map 4 C2. Tel 08-402
30 30. Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, Slottsbacken 6. Map 4 C3.
76. Open Jan–Apr, Sep–Dec: Tel 08-519 553 00. Gamla Stan.
11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu); @ 2, 43, 55, 76. Open 11am–5pm
May–Jun: 11am–5pm daily; Jul–Aug: daily. Closed public hols. 8 by
10am–6pm daily. 8 Eng: Jul–Aug. arrangement. 7 0 - =
9 ^ 7 = ∑ livrustkam ∑ myntkabinettet.se
maren.se
The Royal Coin Cabinet is a
Situated in the Royal Palace, museum holding a priceless
Livrustkammaren (The Royal collection of currency and
Armoury) is the oldest museum highlighting the history of
in Sweden. In 1628, Gustav II money from the 10th century
Adolf had a few costumes that to the present day – from the
had been stained with his little cowrie shell via the
blood during war preserved, drachma and denarius to the The elegant Baroque garden in Tessinska
so that they could be seen cash card of the 21st century. Palatset’s courtyard
and reflected upon here in The museum also gives an
the Royal Armoury. They were insight into the art of medal 4 Tessinska
displayed along with his design over the past 600 years Palatset
magnificent weapons and and shows both traditional
suits of armour, including those portrait medals and more Slottsbacken 4. Map 2 C3.
worn by his predecessors. modern examples like those Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, 59, 76.
Formerly a monument that have been awarded to Closed to the public.
to the Vasa kings, Nobel laureates.
the Royal Armoury Visitors can also see The Tessin Palace at Slotts-
grew to hold a the first Swedish backen is considered by many
collection com- coin, struck in the to be the most beautiful private
memorating five late 10th century residence north of Paris. It is
royal dynasties. by King Olof the best-preserved palace
Ceremonial Skötkonung. Other from Sweden’s era as a great
costumes and rarities include power in the 17th century
coaches from the Queen Kristina’s and was designed by and
royal stables are also Sweden’s first coin, coin from 1644, for Tessin the Younger (1654–
on display. struck in about AD 995 weighing 19.7 kg 1728), the nation’s most
The museum now (42 lb) and renowned architect.
exhibits artifacts from different reckoned to be the world’s Completed in 1697, the
cultural themes such as knights, heaviest coin. From the island building is located on a narrow
royal ceremonies and the of Yap, in Micronesia, the site, which widens out towards
history of dress, along with museum has acquired what a courtyard with a delightful
exhibits related to politics and is thought to be the world’s Baroque garden. The relatively
drama in the lives of the largest means of payment, a discreet façade with its beautiful
Swedish regents and across so-called “rai-stone”, which porch was inspired by the
European history more greets visitors in the foyer. exterior design of Roman
generally. In 1978, the collection The kids’ playroom is great palaces. The decor and garden
was returned to the Royal fun. Among its highlights are were influenced by Tessin’s time
Palace after many transfers over a pirate ship with a treasure in Paris and Versailles.
centuries between different chest of gold coins and a kitsch Tessin, who became a count
buildings in the capital. collection of piggy banks. and State Councillor, spent
large sums on the building’s
ornamentation. Sculptures and
paintings were provided by the
same French masters whose
work had graced the Royal
Palace. Later, however, his son,
Carl Gustaf, had to sell the
palace for financial reasons.
The building was acquired
by the City of Stockholm as a
residence for its Governor in
1773. In 1968 it became the
residence of the Governor of
The coronation carriage of King Adolf Fredrik and Queen Lovisa Ulrika in Livrustkammaren the County of Stockholm.
054-055_EW_Stockholm.indd 54 19/09/17 12:01 pm
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Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
GA MLA ST AN 55
5 Storkyrkan
Trångsund 1. Map 4 B3. Tel 08-723 30
16. Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, 59, 76.
Open Oct–May: 9am–4pm; Jun–Sep:
9am–6pm (Sep: to 5pm). 5 11am Sat
& Sun. 8 Eng: Jul–15 Aug: 10am– 1pm
Mon–Fri; to 2pm Sat & Sun (tour of the
tower: Jul–15 Aug: 2pm & 5pm). 7 ^
(during services). = ∑ stockholms
domkyrkoforsamling.se
Stockholm’s 700-year-old cathe-
dral is of great national religious
importance. It was from here that
the Swedish reformer Olaus Petri
(1493–1552) spread his Lutheran
message around the kingdom. It
is also used for royal ceremonies,
weddings and funerals.
A small village church was
built on this site in the 13th
century, probably by the city’s
founder Birger Jarl. It was
replaced in 1306 by a much
larger basilica, St Nicholas, and
has been enlarged and altered
over the centuries.
The Gothic character of the
interior, acquired in the 15th cen- Storkyrkan’s façade in the Italian Baroque style, seen from Slottsbacken
tury, was revealed in 1908, when,
during restoration work, plaster The cathedral houses some the Elder’s victory over the
was removed from the pillars, priceless artistic treasures, Danes in 1471 (see p17).
exposing the characteristic red including St George and the The Last Judgment (1696) is a
tiling. The late Baroque period Dragon, regarded as one of massive Baroque painting by
provided the so-called “royal the finest late Gothic works David Klöcker Ehrenstrahl. The
chairs” and the pulpit, while the of art in Northern Europe. 3.7-m (12-ft) high bronze can-
façade was adapted to bring it The sculp ture, situated to delabra before the altar, likely to
into keeping with the rest of the the left of the altar, was carved be German, has adorned the
area around the Royal Palace. The from oak and moose horn cathedral for some 600 years.
66-m (216-ft) high tower, added by Lübeck sculp tor Berndt One of the cathedral’s most
in 1743, has 4 bells, the largest Notke. Unveiled in 1489, it prized treasures is the silver
of which weighs about 6 tonnes. commemorates Sten Sture altar, which gave the interior a
completely new appearance in
the 1650s. It was a gift from the
diplomat Johan Adler Salvius.
The pews nearest to the
chancel, the “royal chairs”, were
designed by Nicodemus Tessin
the Younger in 1684 to be used
by royalty on special occasions.
In 1705, the pulpit was installed
above the grave of Olaus Petri.
On 20 April 1535, a light
phenomenon was observed
over Stockholm – six rings
with sparkling solar halos. The
Parhelion Painting (see p16),
recalling the event, hangs in
Storkyrkan and is thought to
be the oldest portrayal of the
capital. It shows the modest
skyline dominated by the
cathedral, at that time still
The sculpture St George and the Dragon by Bernt Notke (1489) in Storkyrkan the basilica of St Nicholas.
054-055_EW_Stockholm.indd 55 19/09/17 12:01 pm
56 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
floor, the Swedish Academy
(closed to the public) holds its
ceremonial gatherings, a tradition
maintained since Gustav III gave
his inaugu ration speech in 1786.
7 Tyska Kyrkan
Svartmangatan 16. Map 4 B3.
Tel 08-411 11 88. Gamla Stan.
@ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Open 1 May–
15 Sep: 11am–3pm daily; 16 Sep–
30 Apr: 11am–3pm Wed, Fri & Sat.
Closed during services. 5 11am Sun,
The imposing Stock Exchange on the north side of Stortorget German. 8 by appt in Swedish &
German. 7 ∑ svenskakyrkan.se
6 Stortorget the red Schantzska Huset (No. 20)
and the narrow Seyfridtska Huset The German church is an
Map 4 B3. Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43, were built in around 1650. The impressive reminder of the
53, 55, 76. Nobelmuseet Tel 08-534
818 00. Open Sep–May: 11am–8pm Schantzska Huset remains almost total influence that
Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Fri, 10am–6pm unchanged and has a lovely lime- Germany had over Stockholm
Sun; Jun–Aug: 10am–8pm daily. stone porch adorned with figures during the 18th century. The
Closed 1 Jan, Midsummer eve (in Jun), of recumbent Roman warriors. Hanseatic League trading
24, 25 & 31 Dec. 8 in English daily. 7 The artist Johan Wendelstam organization was in con trol of
& 0 = - ∑ nobelmuseum.se was responsible for most of the the Baltic and its ports, which
notable porches in the Old explains why the basic layout
It was not until 1778, when the Town. The 17th-century gable of Gamla Stan resembled that
Stock Exchange (Börsen) was on the Grilska Huset (No. 3) is of Lübeck. Germany’s political
completed, that Stortorget, the also worth closer study. influence was only broken after
square in the heart of the Old The decision to construct the the Stockholm Bloodbath and
Town, acquired a more uniform Stock Exchange was taken in Gustav Vasa’s accession to the
appearance. Its northern side 1667, but many wars delay ed the throne in 1523 (see p18), but
had previously been taken up by start of the building by 100 years. its cultural and mercantile
several buildings that served as a The architect was the talented influence remained strong,
town hall. Since the early Middle Erik Palmstedt (1741–1803), who as German merchants and
Ages the square had been a also created the decorative cover craftsmen settled in the city.
natural meeting point, with a for the old well. However, 200 The church’s parish assembly,
well and market place, lined with years of trading on the floor of which today has some 2,000
wooden stalls on market days. the Stock Exchange came to an members, was founded in
A pillory belonging to the jail, end in 1990. Opened in 2001 to 1571. The present twin-nave
which was once sited on nearby mark the centenary of the Nobel church was built in 1638–42,
Kåkbrinken, used to stand on Prize (see p70), the Nobelmuseet as an extension of a smaller
the square. It is now in the Town explores the work and ideas of church that the parish had
Hall on Kungsholmen (see p114). 880 creative minds by means used since 1576.
The medieval layout is clear of short films, exhibitions and In German Late Renaissance
on Stortorget’s west side, where original artifacts. On the upper and Baroque style, the interior
has a royal gallery, added in
1672 for German members of
The Stockholm Bloodbath
Stortorget is intimately linked
with the Stockholm Bloodbath of
November 1520. The Danish King
Kristian II besieged the Swedish
Regent, Sten Sture the Younger,
until he capitulated, and the
Swedes chose Kristian as their
king. He promised an amnesty
and ordered a three-day feast at
Tre Kronor fortress. Near the end
of the festivities, the revellers were
sud denly shut in and arrested for
heresy. The next day more than 80
noblemen and Stockholm citizens Detail of a painting of the
were beheaded in the square. Bloodbath (1524) The royal gallery in the 17th-century
Tyska Kyrkan
056-057_EW_Stockholm.indd 56 19/09/17 11:53 am
GA MLA ST A M 57
the royal household. The pulpit Town, and is usually
(1660) in ebony and alabaster is thronging with people –
unique in Sweden, and the altar, tourists and locals –
from the 1640s, is covered with shopping or strolling.
beautiful pain tings surrounded Starting at Mynttorget
by sculptures of the apostles in the north, where the
and evangelists. Chancery Office (Kansli
The sculptures on the south huset) and Lejonbacken
porch by Jobst Hennen date are, the lively and
from 1643 and show Jesus, atmospheric street finish
Moses and three figures por es at Järntorget in the
traying Faith, Hope and Love. south, where the export of
iron was once con trolled.
Alongside is Bancohuset,
which served as the head
quarters of the State Bank
from 1680 to 1906.
The building at No. 7
has been used by the
Swedish Parliament since
the mid1990s. Its late
19thcentury façade has
a distinctive southern Västerlånggatan, Gamla Stan’s most popular
European influence. shopping street
No. 27 was built by and
for Erik Palmstedt, who also About 100 years later the
designed the Stock Exchange majesticlooking Post Office was
and the well at Stortorget. built, incorpor ating parts of the
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the narrowest street No. 29 is a very venerable 17thcentury buildings already
in the city building, dating from the there. Stockholm’s only Post
early 15th century. The Office until 1869, it was
8 Mårten Trotzigs original pointed Gothic turned into the Postal
Gränd arches were revealed Museum in 1906.
during restoration Letters have
Map 4 C4. Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43, in the 1940s. been sent in Sweden
53, 55, 76. No. 33 is a good since 1636, and the
example of how museum’s permanent
At only 90 cm (35 inches) wide, new materials and exhibits include a
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd is the techniques in the Mauritian stamp in por trayal of early
city’s narrowest street, and late 19th century made the Postmuseum “peasant post men”
climbing up the 36 steps it possible to fit large fighting the angry
gives a good idea of how shop windows into old houses. Åland Sea in their boat Simpan.
different parts of the Old Town The castiron columns, which Also on display is the first post
vary so much in height and can be seen in many other bus, which ran in northern
how tightly packed together places, also date from this period. Sweden in the early 1920s.
the houses are. No. 68, Von der Lindeska The collection includes no
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd is named House, has a majestic fewer than four million stamps,
after a German merchant called 17thcentury façade and a among which are the first
Traubzich, who owned two beautiful porch with sculptures Swedish stamps, produced in
houses here at the end of the of Neptune and Mercury. 1855. Also on display is the
16th century. After being fenced “Penny Black”, the world’s first
off at both ends for 100 years, stamp (dating from 1840), and
the street was reopened in 1945. 0 Postmuseum some stamps issued by
Mauritius in 1847.
Lilla Nygatan 6. Map 4 B3. Tel 010436 The museum library holds
9 Västerlånggatan 44 39. Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. a large collection of literature
Open 11am–4pm Tue–Sun, Sep–Apr
Map 4 B3. Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43, (to 7pm Wed). 8 by ar range ment. on philately and postal history.
Among the many interactive
53, 55, 59, 76. 7 0 = & -
∑ postmuseum.se displays and exhibits, there is
Once a main road outside the also a charming workshop,
city proper, built along parts An attraction in itself, the The Little Post Office, where
of the original town wall, Postmuseum building takes up children can discover what
Västerlånggatan now runs a whole area bought by the it was like to work in a 1920s
through the heart of the Old Swedish Post Office in 1720. post office.
056-057_EW_Stockholm.indd 57 19/09/17 11:53 am
58 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
q Riddarholms
kyrkan
Birger Jarls Torg. Map 4 A3. Tel 08-402
61 30. Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Open
15 May–13 Sep: 10am–5pm daily; 14
Sep–29 Nov: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun.
8 Eng: noon. Closed 30 Nov–14 May.
8 ^ 7 & ∑ kungahuset.se
This church on the island of
Riddarholmen is best known as a
place for royal burials. Its interior
is full of ornate sarcophagi and
worn grave stones, and in front
of the altar are the tombs of the
medieval kings Karl Knutsson Wrangelska Palatset, a royal residence after the Tre Kronor fire of 1697
and Magnus Ladulås.
Built on the site of the late sledge from his porphyry work- the King’s House, and it was here
13th-century Greyfriars abbey, shops in the Älvdalen region in in 1697 that the 15-year-old Karl
founded by Ladulås, the northern Sweden. XII took the oath of office after
majestic brick church was Particularly moving are the the death of his father. Three
gradually enlarged over the graves of royal children who years later the young king left his
centuries. After a serious fire met an early death, including palace to go to war; he would
in 1835, the church acquired the many small tin coffins that never return to Stock holm.
its present lattice-work, surround the last resting place Gustav III was born here, ten
cast-iron tower. of Gustav II Adolf and his queen, years before the Royal Family
The church is surrounded Maria Eleonora. moved back to the new Royal
by ornate burial vaults, which Palace in 1754.
date back as far as the 17th w Wrangelska The Court of Appeal now uses
century. The coffins rest on a the whole building, where in
lower level with space for a Palatset 1792 the assassin of Gustav III
memorial above. The most Birger Jarls Torg 16. Map 4 A3. was manacled in the dungeons
recent was built in 1858–60 Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to during his trial.
for the Bernadotte dynasty. the public. The court also rents the
The vaults contain the remains Rosenhane Palace (Birger Jarls
of all the Swedish sovereigns Only two parts of the Torg 10) and the Hessenstein
from Gustav II Adolf in the 17th fortification work that Gustav House (Birger Jarls Torg 2),
century to the present day with Vasa undertook around 1530 which was built in 1630 by
two exceptions: Queen Kristina still remain – Birger Jarl’s Tower Bengt Bengtsson Oxenstierna.
was buried at St Peter’s in and the southernmost tower of It was named after Fredrik
Rome in 1689 and Gustav VI what became the Wrangel Wilhelm von Hessenstein,
Adolf, who died in 1973, was Palace. Built as a residence for the son of Fredrik I and his
interred at Haga (see pp124–5). the nobleman Lars Sparre in lover Hedvig Taube. Later it
The most magni ficent 1629, it was extensively was occupied by Carl Gustav
sarcophagus is that of the rebuilt only a few decades Tessin, son of the Royal Palace
19th-century king, Karl XIV later. The owner by then was architect and a leading cultural
Johan, which had to Carl Gustaf Wrangel, a field figure in his day.
be towed here by marshal during the Thirty
Years’ War, who chose
Jean de la Vallée as his
architect. The result was
Stockholm’s largest palace
in private hands.
In 1693 Wrangel lost
many valuable posses sions
in a major fire, and four
years later his palace
became a royal residence
when the Royal Family
moved to Riddarholmen
after the Tre Kronor
fortress was ravaged by
Riddarholmskyrkan with the external burial vault by another fire. The palace The city founder Birger Jarl’s statue on the
Tessin and Hårleman then became known as square that bears his name
058-059_EW_Stockholm.indd 58 19/09/17 12:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
GA MLA ST AN 59
e Evert Taubes Stockholm by Birger
Terrass Jarl. The story goes that
the inhabitants of the
Norra Riddarholmshamnen. Map 4 town of Sigtuna floated
A3. Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
a log on Lake Mälaren
A statue of Evert Taube (1890– after a fire in 1187. It
1976), the much-loved drifted on to the shore
troubadour and ballad writer, where the tower now
stands on the terrace below stands, and it was this
Wrangelska Palatset looking log – or “stock” in
out over the waters of Swedish – that gave
Riddarfjärden. In an ideal the capital its name.
position, given the poet’s close A famous painting in
links to the sea, the bronze Storkyrkan (see p16),
sculpture was created by Willy dating from 1535,
Gordon in 1990. shows the waves break-
Close by, Christer ing over the rocks
Berg’s beneath the tower. The 16th-century Birger Jarls Torn
Solbåten
(the Sun Boat), Fredrik Stenbock and his wife
an elegant t Stenbockska Katarina de la Gardie, and the
sculp ture in Palatset family’s coat of arms can be seen
granite, was above the porch. The palace
unveiled in 1966. Birger Jarls Torg 4. Map 4 A3. underwent major extension
Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to
Inspired by the the public. work in 1863 when it was taken
shape of a shell, over by the State Archives. Then
from some Both externally and internally in 1969–71 it was restored as the
Bronze statue of angles it looks the Stenbock Palace is the head quarters of the Supreme
Evert Taube like a sail. best-preserved building on Administrative Court.
Riddarholmen. It was built in the Many leading Swedish and
r Birger Jarls Torn 1640s by the State Councillor foreign architects and artists have
all played their part in
Norra Riddarholmshamnen. Map 4 A3 enhancing the palace’s
Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to outstanding appear-
the public. ance. The roof beams
and flooring are from
When the St Klara convent on the Stenbock period,
Norrmalm was pulled down in and the stair case was
1527 following the Reformation, designed by Nicode-
Gustav Vasa used some of its mus Tessin the Elder.
stonework to build a defensive Several beautiful
installation on Riddarholmen. ceilings are the work
The north ernmost of the two of the masters of
towers came to be known as stucco, Carlo
Birger Jarls Torn in the 19th Carove (c.1672) and
century, when some thought Giuseppe Marchi
it had been erected 600 years (1704), and there is
earlier. The tower has been a cabinet created
linked with one of the legends Stenbockska Palatset, the best-preserved nobleman’s by Rococo architect
that surround the founding of residence on Riddarholmen Carl Hårleman.
1697–1754 The 1866–67 The Par-
1250s The island, 1527 Following the Late 17th century The royal family takes liament building
then called Kidskär, Reformation, the prosperity of over Wrangelska and Hebbe House
is a cattle-grazing monks are evicted the nobility Palatset after Tre are rebuilt for new
area outside from the island starts to diminish Kronor fortress is two-chamber
the settlement destroyed by fire Parliament
1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900
1625–35 Land is do nated 1830s 1905
1270–85 The Greyfriars’ to noblemen and Hornska Parliament
abbey is founded. Kidskär distinguished officers. House used moves to new
is renamed Gråmunke- The name is changed to for Parliament build ing on
holmen. The abbey church Riddarholmen by priests and Helgeands-
is used for royal burials burghers holmen
Wrangelska Palatset
058-059_EW_Stockholm.indd 59 19/09/17 12:01 pm
60 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
1753. In 1730 the build ing
became the property of the city
and served as the City Hall until
1915. After that, there was little
interest taken in the palace until
renovation planned by the
architect Ivar Tengbom was
begun in the late 1940s. It had
even been suggested that the
building should be demolished,
but public opinion ensured
that it remained intact.
Riddarhuset, built in the 17th century in lavish Dutch Baroque style
i Riksdagshuset
y Riddarhuset double staircase, which leads up
to the Knights’ Room. This has a Riksgatan 3A. Map 4 B2. Tel 08-786 40
Riddarhustorget 10. Map 4 A3. 00. Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
Tel 08-723 39 90. Gamla Stan. masterly ceiling painting by David Open tours & meetings in the
@ 3, 53. Open 11am–noon Klöcker Ehrenstrahl (1628–98) and Chamber. 8 ring for details on tours
Mon–Fri. & 8 by arrangement. Riddarhuset’s foremost treasure, a of the building & art works. 7 =
∑ riddarhuset.se sculpted ebony chair that dates ∑ riksdagen.se
from 1623. The walls are covered
Often regarded as one of by some 2,320 coats of arms. The Parliament Building
Stockholm’s most beautiful (Riksdagshuset) and State
buildings, Riddarhuset u Bondeska Bank (Riksbank) on Helge ands-
(House of Nobility) stands holmen were inaugurated in
on Riddarhustorget, which as Palatset 1905 and 1906 respectively.
late as the mid-19th century Riddarhustorget 8. Map 4 B3. Since 1983, when Parliament
was still the city’s centre. Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to returned here after 12 years at
Built in 1641–7 on the initiative the public. Sergels Torg, the two buildings
of the State Chancellor, it was have been combined and
designed by the architects Simon The seat of the Supreme Court enlarged. Parliament also
and Jean de la Vallée, Heinrich since 1949, the Bonde Palace occupies five premises in Gamla
Wilhelm and Justus Vingboons. was created in 1662–73 by Stan. All the buildings are
The nobility, whose privileges architects Jean de la Vallée and connected by underground
were granted in 1280, then Nicodemus Tessin the passages and together amount
had a base for meet ings Elder in the style of a to 130,000 sq m (1,400,000 sq
and events. The building French town house. The ft), with a staff force of about
is still used as a focal year previously, the 600, plus 300 in the political
point for the nobility, State Treasurer Gustav parties’ offices.
hosting the triennial Bonde had bought Parliamentary debates can
Assembly of Nobles. the site opposite be watched from the public
The building is a The motto at Riddarhuset to build a gallery, which holds up to
supreme example of Riddarhuset palace with the idea of 500 spectators. There are guided
Dutch Baroque design renting out most of it. tours of the buildings every
and colouring. Over the entrance Since then the Bonde Palace day during the summer and
on the northern façade is the has had several owners and was only at weekends in winter.
nobility’s motto Arte et Marte (Art damaged by fires in 1710 and Visitors should use the public
and War) with Minerva, Goddess entrance at Riksgatan 3A.
of Art and Science, and Mars, From the gallery level is a
God of War, on either side. striking view from as far as
The sculptures on the Gustav Adolfs Torg to Riddar-
vaulted roof symbolize the holmen. The main chamber
knightly virtues. On the south has benches of Swedish birch
side is Nobilitas (Nobility) hold ing and wall panelling in Finnish
a small Minerva and spear. She is birch, carved in Norway. A
flanked by Studium (Diligence) large tapestry, Memory of a
and Valor (Bravery). Facing the Landscape (1983), by Elisabeth
north is the male equivalent, Hasselberg-Olsson, covers
Honor, flanked by Prudentia (Prud- 54 sq m (581 sq ft) of wall,
ence) and Fortitudo (Strength). weighs 100 kg (220 lb) and
The interior is equally took 3,500 hours to make.
impressive. The lower hall is Bondeska Palatset, now the seat of the The old two-chamber
dominated by a magnificent Supreme Court Parliament’s beautifully
060-061_EW_Stockholm.indd 60 19/09/17 12:01 pm
GA MLA ST AN 61
renovated rooms are now used o Medeltidsmuseum
for meetings of the majority Strömparterren, Norrbro.
party. The former Upper House Map 4 B2. Tel 08-508 317 90.
has three paintings by Otte Kungsträdgården. @ 43, 62.
Sköld (1894–1958), and in the Open noon–5pm Tue & Thu–Sun;
other chamber there are works noon–8pm Wed. 8 7 ^ =
by Axel Törneman and Georg ∑ medeltidsmuseet.stockholm.se
Pauli, who realized Törne man’s
sketches after his death. The fascinating Medieval
Between the chambers is a Museum is built around
45-m (148-ft) long hall with an the capital’s archaeological
elegant display of coats of arms, remains, mainly parts of
paintings and chandeliers. The the city wall that date
Finance Committee meets in from the 1530s. They were
the old oak-panelled library The chamber where the 349 Members of found during intensive
sur rounded by old prints and Parliament meet archaeolog ical research in
Jugendstil lamps. 1978–80, which unearthed
Facing the old entrance at of marble. The present entrance a number of remarkable
Norrbro, the magnificent stair- was the State Bank’s main hall finds from Stockholm’s
well still retains its colouring from until 1976. It has magnificent medieval history.
1905. Other impressive survivors columns, too, made from polished Situated, for the most
from opulent days include eight granite, and some outstanding part, below ground level, the
columns, a floor, steps and paint ings from the Parliamentary museum also includes artifacts
balusters all in various types collection of 3,000 works. from other parts of the city.
Among them is the 22-m
(72-ft) long Riddarholm ship
that was discovered off
Riddarholmen in 1930 and
dates from the 1520s.
The museum provides a
good picture of Stockholm’s
early days. From the entrance,
a 350-year-old tunnel leads
into a reconstructed medieval
world. There is a pillory in
the square and the gallows
hill with the tools of the
executioner’s grisly trade.
The new Parliament building, with the older building behind The old harbour has been
rebuilt. Boathouses, complete
with salt barrels, seal skins
Parliamentary Wanderings
and dried fish, as well as
Sweden’s first Parliament was opened in the 1860s on Riddarholmen authentic nautical smells,
in the combined properties of Fleming House and Hebbe House. tell the story of fishing and
From 1835–65, commoners – priests, burghers and farmers – met in overseas trade. The spruce
Fleming House, which became known as the “House of Commons”, wreath hanging out side the
while the noblemen sat in nearby Riddarhuset. Situated behind wine cellar demonstrates that
Riddarholmskyrkan at Birger Jarls Torg 5, Fleming House was supplies of wine and beer have
constructed on the site of the Greyfriars abbey, after the monks were arrived from the Continent. The
forced to flee due to the Reformation in the 16th century (see p59), large house is built from 6,000
and remains of the huge abbey original bricks. The well-tended
can still be seen in the cellar. herb garden includes lavender,
A new base for Parliament, adapt- roses, tansy and sage. Herbs
ed for the needs of a two-chamber were important in the Middle
legislature, was inaugurated on
Helgeandsholmen in 1905. When a Ages for their medicinal quali-
single chamber was established in ties as well as their use in food.
1971, a lack of space meant that The museum runs regular
Parliament had to move to the themed exhibitions with a
newly built Kulturhuset (see p69) medieval emphasis and
on Sergels Torg. It returned to holds a programme of lectures
Helgeandsholmen in 1983 into and educational activities for
an extended and recon structed “Mother Svea” above the old children. The shop here sells
Parliament building. Parliament building books on the Middle Ages,
plus postcards and jewellery.
060-061_EW_Stockholm.indd 61 19/09/17 12:01 pm
RÅDMANSGATAN TULEG. RUNEBER GSG.
Rådmans- ERIKSBERGS-
gatan TEGNÉRGATAN ERIKSBERGSG.
RÅDMANSGATAN SVEA VÄGEN DÖBELNSGATAN PLAN BIRGER JARLSGATAN ENGELBREKTSGATAN HUMLEGÅRDEN
TEGNÉR- TEGNÉRG. STUREGATAN
LUNDEN DROTTNINGG. ADOLF FREDRIKS KYRKOGATA
ENGELBREKTS-
PLAN
TEGNÉRGATAN WALLINGATAN OLOF PALMES GATA Hötorget KUNGSGATAN HUMLEGÅRDSGATAN MALMS-
UPPLANDSGATAN
DALAGATAN
BARNHUSGATAN
REGERINGSGATAN
VÄSTMANNAGATAN
TUREGATAN
ÖSTER-
GREV
TORSGATAN
NORRMALM Hötorget NORRLANDSGATAN Östermalms- NYBROGATAN TORG STORGATAN
NORRA BIBLIOTEKSG. torg SIBYLLEGATAN
KUNGSGATAN SERGELGATAN SVEA VÄGEN MÄSTER SAMUELSG. RIDDARG.
KLARASTRANDSLEDEN
SMÅLANDSG.
MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN MALMSKILLNADSGATAN MALMS- NYBRO- ARTILLERIGATAN
ÖSTRA
NORR-
Barnhusviken
BANTORGET VASAGATAN
Kungs- JÄRNVÄGSG. HAMNGATAN TORG PLAN VÄPNARG.
bron
T-Centralen T-Centralen STRANDVÄGEN
City-
terminalen KLARABERGSGATAN GATAN BRUNKE- REGERINGSGATAN KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDSG.
BERGS-
TERMINALSLINGAN
KLARABERGSVIADUKTEN T-Centralen HERKULESGATAN trädgården KARL
TORG
DROTTNING-
Kungs-
VATTUGATAN
BLEKHOLMSTERRASSEN
XII:S
Stockholm C
GUSTAV TORG
ADOLFS
FREDSGATAN TORG Norr- Ström-
Klara Sjö
bron
TEGEL-
Stadshus- BACKEN Norrström bro
bron
Riks-
Vasa- bron
Central- bron
bron
062-063_EW_Stockholm.indd 62 18/11/15 2:50 pm
st ockholm area b y area 63
CITY
the area known as city today was where, in commercial centre of stockholm. a hub for
the mid-18th century, the first stone-built public transport and banking, city is the place
houses and palaces outside Gamla stan for the best depart ment stores and shopping
started to appear for stockholm’s burghers malls, exclus ive boutiques and nightspots.
and nobility. after World War II, the run-down the centre also has some beautiful parks and
build ings around hötorget were demolished pleasant squares serving as popular meeting
to form what is now sergels torg; many places. the unique landscape surround ing
homes were replaced by rather dreary stockholm permeates even city – here and
office blocks. there appear unexpected glimpses of the
In recent years the area has been livening water with its bustling boat life and a string
up after dark to become the heart and of anglers along the embankments.
Sights at a Glance
Museums t Centralbadet Restaurants pp166–71
4 Dansmuseet o Kungliga Biblioteket 1 Belgobaren
h Hovstallet
5 Medelhavsmuseet 2 Cloud Nine
8 Konstakademien Theatres 3 Ekstedt
u Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet 3 Kungliga Operan 4 Griffins Steakhouse
f Armémuseum e Konserthuset 5 Grill
g Swedish Museum of y Dansens Hus 6 Grodan
Performing Arts j Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 7 Hattori Sushi Devil
k Hallwylska museet Churches 8 Jamie’s Italian
Squares 2 Jacobs Kyrka 9 Nalen
10 Operakällaren
1 Kungsträdgården 9 Klara Kyrka 11 Operakällarens Bakficka
q Sergels Torg i Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 12 PA and Co
w Hötorget d Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka 13 Riche
p Stureplan Markets & Malls 14 Rolfs Kök
Public Buildings a Sturegallerian and Sturebadet 15 Sturehof
6 Arvfurstens Palats s Östermalmshallen 16 Supper
7 Rosenbad 17 Teatergrillen
0 Kulturhuset and Stockholms 18 Tjabba Thai
Stadsteater RÅDMANSGATAN TULEG. RUNEBER GSG. 19 Zink Grill
r Kungstornen Rådmans- ERIKSBERGS- 20 Wedholms Fisk
gatan TEGNÉRGATAN ERIKSBERGSG.
RÅDMANSGATAN SVEA VÄGEN DÖBELNSGATAN PLAN BIRGER JARLSGATAN ENGELBREKTSGATAN HUMLEGÅRDEN
TEGNÉR- TEGNÉRG. STUREGATAN
LUNDEN DROTTNINGG. ADOLF FREDRIKS KYRKOGATA
ENGELBREKTS-
PLAN
TEGNÉRGATAN WALLINGATAN OLOF PALMES GATA Hötorget KUNGSGATAN HUMLEGÅRDSGATAN MALMS-
UPPLANDSGATAN
DALAGATAN
BARNHUSGATAN
REGERINGSGATAN
VÄSTMANNAGATAN
TUREGATAN
ÖSTER-
GREV
TORSGATAN
NORRMALM Hötorget NORRLANDSGATAN Östermalms- NYBROGATAN TORG STORGATAN
NORRA BIBLIOTEKSG. torg SIBYLLEGATAN
KUNGSGATAN SERGELGATAN SVEA VÄGEN MÄSTER SAMUELSG. RIDDARG.
KLARASTRANDSLEDEN
SMÅLANDSG.
MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN MALMSKILLNADSGATAN MALMS- NYBRO- ARTILLERIGATAN
ÖSTRA
NORR-
Barnhusviken
BANTORGET VASAGATAN
Kungs- JÄRNVÄGSG. HAMNGATAN TORG PLAN VÄPNARG.
bron
T-Centralen T-Centralen STRANDVÄGEN
KLARABERGSGATAN
City-
terminalen GATAN BRUNKE- REGERINGSGATAN KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDSG.
BERGS-
TERMINALSLINGAN
KLARABERGSVIADUKTEN T-Centralen HERKULESGATAN trädgården KARL
TORG
DROTTNING-
Kungs-
VATTUGATAN
BLEKHOLMSTERRASSEN
XII:S
Stockholm C
GUSTAV TORG
ADOLFS
FREDSGATAN TORG Norr- Ström-
Klara Sjö
bron
TEGEL-
Stadshus- BACKEN Norrström bro
bron
Riks-
Vasa- bron
Central- bron
bron 0 metres 400
0 yards 400 See also Street Finder
pp206–18
Monument to Gustav II Adolf in Gustav Adolfs Torg For map symbols see back flap
062-063_EW_Stockholm.indd 63 18/11/15 2:50 pm
64 ST OCKHO l m AR e A B y AR e A
Street-by-Street: Around Kungsträdgården
With a history going back to the 15th century, the King’s
Garden (Kungsträdgården) has long been the city’s most
popular meeting place and recreational centre. Both visitors
and Stockholmers gather here for summer concerts and
festivals, and in the winter months to make the most of the ice
skating rink. Close by is Sweden House, where the tourist office
is based, and around the park is a wealth of shops, boutiques,
churches, museums and restaurants. A short walk takes you to
Gustav Adolfs Torg, flanked by the Royal Opera House and
other stately buildings, including the Swedish Foreign Office.
Gustav II Adolf’s
equestrian statue,
designed by
L’Archevêque,
was unveiled in 1796.
5 . Medelhavsmuseet vÄStrA trÄdGÅrdSGAtAn
This museum near Gustav
Adolfs Torg has vast
collections from prehistoric
cultures around the
Mediterranean area.
reGerInGSGAtAn
fredSGAtAn
Sagerska Palatset
StrÖMGAtAn
GuStAv AdOlfS tOrG
nOrrbrO StrÖMGAtAn
Opera källaren
(see p167)
3 . Kungliga Operan
Built in 1898 with a
magnificently ornate
4 Arvfurstens Palats auditorium, the Royal
The Swedish Foreign Office is based Opera House replaced
in this palace, built for Gustav III’s an earlier one from the
sister Sofia Albertina in 1794. time of Gustav III.
064-065_EW_Stockholm.indd 64 18/11/15 2:50 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight & Street by Street “UK” LAYER
Starsight template
“UK” LAYER
template V2 (OpenType)
(Source v1.9)
Date 28th August 2012
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm
Cit y 65
The NK clock,
part of the city
skyline. VASASTAN
CITY
Sergels Torg
GAMLA STAN
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 2, 3 & 4
haMNgaTaN
vÄsTra TrÄdgÅrdsgaTaN
KuNgsTrÄdgÅrdsgaTaN The King’s kitchen garden was sited here in the 15th
1 Kungsträdgården
century. Today Kungsträdgården is one of the most
popular recreation centres in the city. Events are
held in the park throughout the year, and include
Christmas market in the winter.
Statue of Karl XIII concerts during the summer months and a
Queen Kristina’s summer
house by the cobble-
stoned Lantmäteribacken.
2 Jacobs Kyrka
Started in 1580, the church was
consec rated in 1643. Its stone
porches are beautifully crafted.
Molin’s fountain
sTrÖMgaTaN
0 metres 100
Karl XII’s statue by 0 yards 100
Molin was built in
1868 to mark the Key
150th anniversary
of the King’s death. Suggested route
064-065_EW_Stockholm.indd 65 18/11/15 2:50 pm
66 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
1 Kungsträdgården dance performances. Many of wanted to provide two new
the events are free and enjoyed churches in Norra Malmen, as
Map 4 B1. Kungsträdgården.
@ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. by thousands of Stockholmers, the area was then called, and
who arrive with their picnics work to build the churches of
Once the royal kitchen garden and blankets. The park also St Jacob and St Klara (see p68)
in the 15th century, the “King’s hosts numerous exhibitions, started in 1580. St Jacob’s was
Garden” today is a popular food festivals, and live street consecrated first, in 1643. It has
meeting place for Stockholmers theatre. Local radio stations also been restored several times
– with something for everyone hold big festivals featuring a since then, in some cases rather
all year round. The park, which variety of home-grown and clumsily. However, several
is Stockholm's oldest, is in the international artists. In August, valuable items have been
heart of the city and encircled when the annual Gospel Choir preserved, including a baptis-
by avenues. At the Strömgatan Festival takes place, audiences mal font from 1634 and some
end of the park is a square, are invited to sing along, church silver, as well as porches
named after Karl XII, whatever their musical by stonemasons Henrik Blom
with Johan Peter abilities. At the and Hans Hebel.
Molin’s statue of the garden's centre is a The organ’s façade was
warrior king, unveiled in large cirular plaza, and created by the architect Carl
1868, in the centre. The during the winter months Hårleman, and the large paint-
statue was commissioned this is transformed into a ing on the west wall of the
to mark the 150th skating rink that attracts southern nave is by Fredrik
anniversary of the king's children and grown-ups Westin, Sweden’s most dis-
death. In Kungsträdgården alike. There is also a tinguished historical painter
itself there is a statue of Molin’s Christmas market held in in the early 19th century.
Karl XIII (1809–18) by Erik fountain the park every weekend
Göthe. Also here is Molin’s throughout December.
famous fountain, made from Kungsträdgården has several
gyp sum in 1866 and cast outdoor cafés, art galleries,
in bronze seven years later. such as Wetterling Galleri, and
The fountain is inhabited restaurants at the two ends
by mythological characters. of the garden.
During Erik XIV’s reign in
the 16th century, the kitchen
garden was transformed into 2 Jacobs Kyrka
a formal Renaissance garden, Västra Trädgårdsgatan 2. Map 4 B1.
and Queen Kristina had a stone Tel 08-723 30 38. Kungsträdgården.
summer house built in it. The @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. Open 10am–5pm
17th-century house still stands Mon–Wed; 11am–6pm Thu, Fri &
at Västra Trädgårdsgatan 2, Sun; 10am–5pm Sat. 5 (in English) Altar in Jacobs Kyrka, partly dating from
next to the cobble-stoned Sun. Concerts 5pm Fri. the 17th century
Lantmäteribacken. 8 by arrangement. 7
Each year during the summer
months nearly 150 events are Even in medieval times there 3 Kungliga Operan
staged in Kungsträdgården. The was a small chapel where Gustav Adolfs Torg. Map 4 B1. Tel
covered, outdoor stage here is Kungsträdgården now lies. 08-791 44 00. Kungsträdgården.
the setting for various open-air Dedicated to St Jacob, the @ 2, 43, 55, 62, 65, 71, 76. Ticket Office
concerts; Parkteatern, an patron saint of wayfarers, the Open noon–5pm Mon–Fri, noon–
outdoor theatre group, also chapel and another modest- 3pm Sat. 8 by arrangement. 7
puts on shows including sized church in the area were - = ∑ operan.se
musical productions, children's destroyed by King Gustav Vasa
theatre, flamenco and other in the 16th century. Johan III Opera has been performed in
Sweden since 18 January 1773,
when a production was staged
at Bollhuset at Slottsbacken.
Kungliga Operan (The Royal
Opera House) on Gustav Adolfs
Torg was inaugurated on 30
September 1782, but by the
late 19th century it had
become a fire hazard. The
architect Axel Anderberg
was commissioned to design
a new opera house, which was
View of Kungsträdgården, towards Hamngatan transferred to the State in 1898
066-067_EW_Stockholm.indd 66 19/09/17 12:01 pm
CIT Y 67
Mediterranean rub shoulders
in Medelhavsmuseet (Museum
of Mediterranean and Near
East Antiquities). Its many
treasures include a large group
of terracotta figures
discovered by archaeologists
on Cyprus in the 1930s.
Models made of unusual
materials, such as cork, show
how houses were once
constructed, and the museum
also has a fascinating gold
room. The Islamic collections
are complemented by tem-
The 28-m (92-ft) long gold foyer at Kungliga Operan porary exhibitions.
The museum is housed in
from a consortium founded by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz, design er a former bank, which was
the financier K A Wallenberg. of the original opera house. originally built in the 17th
The colouring of the build ing The palace and its decor are century for Field Marshal
in late Renaissance style is in shining examples of the Gustav Horn, a decorated
keeping with the Royal Gustavian style, thanks commander in the Thirty Years’
Palace and Parliament to the contributions War. The stairwell, dating from
building, and some of artists and 1905, and the peristyles and
details of the craftsmen such as colonnade around the upper
architecture are Louis Masreliez and part of the hall are well worth
common to all three. Georg Haupt and a visit in themselves.
The beauti ful their pupils Gustaf
staircase with ceiling Adolf Ditzinger, Johan
paintings by Axel Gold ceiling in Tobias Sergel and 6 Dansmuseet
Jungstedt was Kungliga Operan Gottlieb Iwersson. In Drottninggatan 17. Map 4 A1.
inspired by the Paris 1906 the building Tel 08-441 76 51. Centralen,
Opera. The same artist’s portrait was taken over by the Swedish Kungsträdgården. @ 52. Open
of Oscar II hangs in the 28-m Foreign Office. 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–4pm
(92-ft) long gold foyer, where Nearby is the elegant Sat & Sun. 8 7 - =
Carl Larsson was responsible for Sagerska Palatset (1894) in ∑ dansmuseet.se
the decorative paintings. The French Renaissance style, which
wings at either side of the stage is used by the Prime Minister as In 2013 the Dance Museum
have been kept, as has the an official residence. moved into new premises on
width of the proscenium arch Drottninggatan, in a former
(11.4 m/37 ft). Also saved was J bank with a grand exterior.
T Sergel’s group of angels, The museum was originally
holding the national coat of founded in Paris in 1933 by
arms, above the stage. An angel the Swedish aristocrat and
in Vicke Andrén’s ceiling noted art collector Rolf de
painting is holding a sketch of Maré (1888–1964). He was also
the Opera House. the founder and artistic
director of the world-
4 Arvfurstens renowned Ballets Suédois.
The museum’s collection of
Palats Arvfurstens Palats (1794), now the exhibits reflects all aspects of
Gustav Adolfs Torg 1. Map 4 B1. Swedish Foreign Office dance – costumes and masks,
Kungsträdgården. @ 43, 62, 65. scenery sketches, art and
Closed to the public. 5 Medelhavs posters, books and documents.
Tempo rary displays are orga-
Opposite the Royal Opera museet nized every year. Apart from
House, on the other side of Fredsgatan 2. Map 4 B1. Tel 08-519 the exhibition halls, there is
Gustav Adolfs Torg, stands 550 50. Kung strädgården. @ 3, also a Study Centre, which
Arvfurstens Palats (Prince’s 52, 53, 62, 65. Open noon–8pm Tue– boasts a large collection of
Palace), built for Gustav III’s sister Fri, noon–5pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 - books and DVDs. The museum
Sofia Albertina and inaugurated = ∑ medelhavsmuseet.se also has a French bistro (Bistro
in 1794. She commissioned the Rolf de Maré) and a shop
architect Erik Palmstedt to carry Gods and people from pre- selling Sweden’s largest collec-
out the work. He was a pupil of historic cultures around the tion of dance books and DVDs.
066-067_EW_Stockholm.indd 67 19/09/17 12:01 pm
68 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
1897 by the architect Erik
Lallerstedt. Its present look ties in
with the Royal Opera House (see
p66) and the Royal Palace (see
pp50–53), whose architect Tessin
the Younger had a vision of this
area as an extension of his work.
Traces of the older buildings
can still be seen. The interior of
the small meeting room was
design ed by Carl Fredrik
Adelcrantz around 1780, and two
tiled stoves from the same period
have been preserved, plus the
main porch facing Jakobsgatan.
Rosenbad, home of the Government and City Council committees
7 Rosenbad 8 Konstakademien
Rosenbad 4. Map 4 A2. Fredsgatan 12. Map 4 A2. Tel 08-23 29
Kungsträdgården. @ 3, 53, 62, 65. 45. T-centralen, T- Kungsträdgården.
Closed to the public. @ 3, 53, 62, 65. Open 11am –5pm
Tue –Fri, noon– 4pm Sat & Sun. 7
Since 1981, the Rosenbad entrance at Jakobsgatan 27C. -
complex – a collection of ∑ konstakademien.se
palatial buildings overlooking
the Strömmen channel – The art collections of
has housed the Swedish Konstakademien (Royal Academy Interior of Klara Kyrka with decor by Olle
Government and the Prime of Fine Arts) reflect more than 250 Hjortzberg
Minister’s private office in years of paint ings and sculptures,
three internally linked sites. mostly by past and present mem- 9 Klara Kyrka
Three of the late 19th bers. There are almost 800 Klarabergsgatan 37. Map 2 C4.
century’s most notable sculptures, most of them plaster Tel 08-411 73 24. T-centralen
architects were commissioned casts that were once used in @ 52, 59, 65. Open 10am–5pm
to design these buildings. The drawing classes. They range Sun–Fri, 5–7:30pm Sat. 5 11am Sun.
Venetian-style palace along from Michelangelo’s enormous 7 -
Strömgatan was the last one to Moses to small plant ornaments
be added, in 1904. Designed by intended as inspira tion for The convent of St Klara stood on
Ferdinand Boberg (1860–1916), interiors and design. the site of the present church
it used to house private Between Fredsgatan and and cemetery until 1527, when
apartments, a bank and a Jakobsgatan, the imposing corner it was pulled down on the
popular restau rant, traces of house was designed by Tessin the orders of Gustav Vasa. Later, his
which survive in the Elder in the early 1670s. The Royal son Johan III commissioned a
ornamentation of the open Academy moved in while under new church, completed in 1590.
loggia facing the water. the pat ronage of Gustav III in the The church was ravaged by fire
Gustav Wickman (1858–1916) late 18th century. It has been in 1751, and its recon struction
designed the pink sandstone rebuilt several times, the latest in was planned by the period’s
house on the corner of two outstanding architects, first
Fredsgatan and Drottninggatan Carl Hårleman and later C F
in exuberant, almost Baroque- Adelcrantz. The pulpit was
like, Jugendstil. The Skåne Bank made in 1753 to Hårleman’s
moved into this building in 1900. design, and J T Sergel (see p85)
The Florentine-style house on created the angelic figures in
Fredsgatan facing Rödbod torget the north ern gallery. A pair of
is three years older. It was identical angels adorn the
designed by Aron Johansson exquisite chancel, based on the
(1860–1936), architect of the old sculptor’s gypsum originals.
Parliament building on In the 1880s, the 116-m
Helgeandsholmen. (380-ft) tower was added and
Rosenbad got its name from a for many years could be seen
former 17th-century bath house, from all over the city. The
which offered bathers a choice of 20th-century church artist, Olle
a lily bath, a chamomile bath or a The Fredsgatan entrance Hjortzberg, created the vault
rose bath – rosenbad in Swedish. of Konstakademien paintings, dating from 1904.
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Edvin Öhrström’s glass obelisk in Sergels Torg, with Kulturhuset behind to the left
0 Kulturhuset and documentaries and live public use; and the “Music and
Stockholms broadcast concerts in the Film” section has a large archive
Stadsteater “Klara Cinema”. Clubs, concerts of international music that
and events are available in visitors can listen to.
Sergels Torg 7, Kulturhuset. Map 2 C4. the “Sergels Torg 3” venue; there The centre has a variety of
Kulturhuset Tel 08-508 315 08. is also an open rooftop stage cafés and eateries as well as
Stockholms Stadsteater Tel 08-506 used during the summer several shops selling items of
202 00. T-centralen. @ 52, 69. months. The “Ecoteque” is a contemporary Swedish design.
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm space dedicated to environ- Kulturhuset also houses
Sat & Sun. & some areas. 7 0 - mental issues, where regular Stockholms Stadsteater
= ∑ kulturhusetstadsteatern.se forums take place. There is (City Theatre). The theatre
also a coffee shop here and presents a varied programme
Opened in 1974, Kultur huset is changing exhibitions. “Lava” of music and other events in its
at the heart of Stockholm’s is a meeting place for young main auditorium. Here, some
cultural life. A creation of the people, where dance, handicraft 1,400 performances take place
architect Peter Celsing, the and various other workshops every year for audi ences
cultural centre is typical of its are held. totalling about 225,000.
era and blends well with There are five libraries in the
surrounding Sergels Torg. The centre. “Kidszone” caters for
building has a façade of glass small children with storytelling q Sergels Torg
all along the southern side of and workshops; “TioTretton” is Map 2 C4. T-centralen.
the square and is a symbol for children aged 10 to 13; @ 52, 69.
of Swedish Modern ism. “Serieteket” is Sweden’s only
Kulturhuset offers some thing library for fans of strip cartoons; As part of the city centre’s
for everybody: three galleries the “Plattan Library” is stocked transformation, around 1930
hold regularly chang ing with international newspapers there was a strong lobby in
exhibitions suitable for all tastes. and magazines and also has favour of extending Sveavägen
Visitors can watch short films, a bank of computers for through to Gustav Adolfs Torg.
But in 1945 it was decided to
City’s Transformation end the road at the junction
with Klarabergs gatan and
During the 20th century Stockholm’s population grew from 250,000 Hamngatan to form a new square,
to just under one million. By the 1920s it was obvi ous that the old Sveaplan. In 1957 a two-level
heart of the city did not meet the square was proposed – a lower
future needs of business, public level for pedestrians and an
administration and the growth upper level for traffic. The plan
in traffic. In 1951 a controversial was finalized in 1960, and the
30-year pro gramme to transform
the lower Norrmalm city centre name changed to Sergels Torg.
was launched. Slums on 335 of the In 1972 the sculptor Edvin
600 sites were pulled down, and 78 Öhrström’s glass obelisk, Crystal
new houses were built. Two-thirds Vertical Accent in Glass and Steel,
The first steps towards a new of the area’s buildings were added was erected in the centre and
Hötorgs City (see p70), 1958 during this period. now shimmers at night due to
improved lighting.
068-069_EW_Stockholm.indd 69 19/09/17 12:01 pm
70 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
in 1970–71, and his grandson
Svante (b. 1942), who had a
similar task in 1993–6.
Constructed in 1923–6, the
main hall at the outset matched
Tengbom’s original con cept.
However, acoustical problems
led to major reconstruction
work and modernization. Its
inter nal decor is rather frugal,
but the Grünewald Hall, by the
artist Isaac Grüne wald (1889–
1946), is more lavish, in the style
of an Italian Renaissance palace.
The four marble statues in the
Fresh produce on sale at Hötorget, a marketplace since the 17th century main foyer are by Carl Milles,
creator of the Orpheus sculpture
w Hötorget were constructed in 1952–6, group outside. Other artists who
there is a reminder of the old city have contributed to the decor
Map 2 C4. Hötorget. @ 1, 56, 59.
( 10am–6pm Mon–Thu, 10am– centre. A tablet marks where the are Einar Forseth, Simon Gate,
7pm Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. renowned sculptor Johan Tobias Edward Hald and Carl Malmsten.
∑ hotorgshallen.se Sergel (1740–1814) had his The Stockholm Concert
studio. A later sculptor, Carl Milles Hall has been the home of the
Tradition is still going strong (see p152), created the well Royal Stockholm Philharmonic
on Hötorget (Hay Market). noted fountain, Orpheus, that Orchestra since it opened.
Formerly belonging to St Klara stands in front of Konserthuset. The orchestra gives some
convent, in the 1640s the 100 concerts every year, and
square evolved into an impor international star soloists
tant place for trading in animal e Konserthuset and conductors perform here
fodder, milk, vegetables and Hötorget 8. Map 2 C4. Tel 0850 66 77 regularly. It is also the venue
meat. Today it is still a lively 88. Hötorget. @ 1, 56, 59. Ticket for the Polar Music Prize and
market for fresh produce. Office Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri, the Nobel Prize presentations.
The buildings around the 11am–3pm Sat, and 2 hours before a
square are relatively new. The concert. 8 7 - =
glassfronted cinema complex ∑ konserthuset.se r Kungstornen
opened in 1995, while the PUB Kungsgatan 30 and 33. Map 3 D4.
department store was added in A Nordic version of a Greek Hötorget. @ 1, 43, 56. Closed to
1916 and Konsert huset in 1926. temple, Konserthuset (Stockholm the public.
On nearby Sergelgatan, where Concert Hall) is a masterpiece by
the five highrises of Hötorgs City the architect Ivar Tengbom In 1915 the young architect
(1878–1968) and an out standing Sven Wallander submitted a
example of the 1920s Neo sketch showing how Stock holm
Classical style. Tengbom’s could be given a modern, USA
tradition has been carried on by inspired main street. His plans
his son Anders (b. 1911), who was were accept ed during the 1920s,
in charge of the hall’s renovation when a new road was excavated
The Nobel Prizes
Alfred Nobel (1833–96) was an outstanding chemist and inventor,
and the prestigious Nobel Prizes – consisting of a monetary award
and a medal – have been presented every year since 1901 on 10
December, the date of his death. The ceremony
takes place in Konsert huset, where prizes
are presented for physics, chemistry,
physiology or medicine, and literature.
Since 1969 the Bank of Sweden has also
given a prize for economic sciences in
Nobel’s memory. The Nobel Peace Prize is
presented in Oslo’s City Hall on the same
day. In 1901 each prize was worth 150,000 kr,
while in 2010 it had increased to 10 million kr. The Nobel Medal,
The Orpheus sculpture group by Carl Milles Since 2012, it has been 8 million kr. awarded annually
at Konserthuset
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through the Brunkeberg hill In addition to performances,
linking Hötorget with Sture plan. Dansens Hus arranges seminars,
A bridge was built over what lectures, meet-the-artist
is now Kungsgatan, and a few sessions and workshops.
years later the twin Kungstornen
(King’s Towers) were added. u Strindbergs-
Designed in Neo-Classical style
by Wallander, the north ern tower museet Blå Tornet
was originally owned by the Drottninggatan 85. Map 2 C3.
sugar company Sockerbolaget. Tel 08-411 53 54. Rådmansgatan.
The southern tower was @ 52, 69. Open noon–4pm Tue–Sun
designed by Ivar Callmander and (Jul & Aug: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun). &
owned by L M Ericsson. Apart 8 when booked in advance. =
from a period when restaurants ∑ strindbergsmuseet.se
occupied the top of each one,
the towers have been used only Centralbadet’s characteristic naturalistic The world-famous dramatist
as offices. Both are 16 floors high. Jugendstil façade August Strindberg (1849–1912)
The northern tower, covering an had 24 different addres ses in
area of 7,000 sq m (75,350 sq ft), centre has a 23-m (75-ft) long Stockholm over the years. He
is referred to as the “male”, with pool, bubble and treatment moved to the last of these in
his more graceful, slightly larger pools, three saunas and skin- 1908, and gave it the name
twin, as the “female”. At the care and massage sections. Blå Tornet (The Blue Tower).
entrance to the northern tower The garden, situated between By this time he had gained
are some beautiful granite sculp- Drottninggatan and international recognition.
tures created by Eric Grate. Centralbadet, was originally The house, now the Strind-
designed by the prolific bergsmuseet, was built with
18th-century architect Carl central heating, toilet and lift,
Hårleman. A few of the trees but lacked a kitchen. Instead,
growing there today are the writer relied on Falkner’s
thought to date from his era. Pension, a hotel in the same
The garden is a delightful oasis building, for food. On his last few
set round an ornamental pool birthdays the great man would
and fountain, and there is also stand on his balcony and watch
a sculpture showing a Triton his admirers stage a torchlight
riding a dolphin, created by procession in his honour.
Greta Klemming in the 1920s. Opened in 1973, the museum
includes reconstruc tions of
the author’s home with his
y Dansens Hus bedroom, dining room and
study, as well as 3,000 books
Barnhusgatan 12–14. Map 2 C3.
Tel 08-508 990 90. T-centralen. and archives for photo graphs,
@ 1, 53. Ticket Office Open 2–6pm press cuttings and posters.
The “female” (left) and “male” (right) Tue–Fri, three hours before In the adjoining premises,
Kungstornen on Kungsgatan performances Sat & Sun. & 7 - a permanent exhibition
= ∑ dansenshus.se portrays Strindberg as author,
t Centralbadet theatrical director, artist and
The most important space photographer. Temp orary
Drottninggatan 88. Map 4 C4. Tel 08-
545 213 00. Hötorget. Open 7am– for contemporary dance and exhibitions and other activities
8:30pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7:30pm Sat, performance art in the whole of are often held here.
8am–5:30pm Sun. Closed public hols. Scandinavia, Dansens Hus has
& - 0 = ∑ centralbadet.se two theatres with a capacity of
750 and 100 seats respectively.
Designed by the architect Its programme often includes as
Wilhelm Klemming in many as 35 productions a year,
Jugendstil, Centralbadet swim- and these draw upwards of
ming and fitness centre was 60,000 visitors. The artists that
completed in 1904. Since then, have graced these stages range
it has been rebuilt and extend- from emerging Scandinavian
ed, but the façade remains the companies to international
same, while the Jugendstil established acts. Among them
influence con tinues into the are the Spanish flamenco
main pool and restaurant. dancer Israel Galvan, and
A protected cultural heritage Virpi Pahkinen, a Finnish Strindberg’s desk and writing materials in
building, the classic swimming choreographer and dancer. his study
070-071_EW_Stockholm.indd 71 19/09/17 12:01 pm
72 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
i Adolf Fredriks programmes, movies,
Kyrka videos, Swedish music
and multi media
Holländargatan 16. Map 2 C3. recordings. The library
Tel 08-20 70 76. Hötoreget. @ 52. has made all of its
Open 1–7pm Mon, 10am– 4pm Tue– material avail able to
Sun. 5 7pm Mon, 12:15pm Wed & the public.
Thu (Mass in English on Thu), 11am
Sun. 8 by appointment. 7 - = The imposing
The “Devil’s Bible” from the early 13th century, stored at orig inal building,
King Adolf Frederik laid the Kungliga Biblioteket inaugurated in 1878,
foundation stone of this church had to be expanded
in 1768 on the site of an earlier o Kungliga in the 1920s, and again in the
chapel dedicated to St Olof. Biblioteket 1990s. This major extension
Designed by Carl Fredrik provided an auditorium and,
Adelcrantz, in Neo-Classical Humlegården. Map 3 D3. Tel 010-709 most importantly, two
style with traces of Rococo, 30 30. Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, underground book storage
the church has been built 55, 56, 91, 96. Open 9am–7pm Mon– areas covering an area in total
in the shape of a Greek cross Thu, 9am–6pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat; of 18,000 sq m (193,750 sq ft).
and has a central dome. 1 Jun–31 Aug: 9am–6pm Mon–Thu, The library is in a beautiful
The interior has 9am–5pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat. setting in Humlegården,
Closed July: Sat 8 by appointment.
undergone a number of 7 - ∑ kb.se created by King Johan III in
changes, but both the the 16th century to grow hops
altar and pulpit have for the royal household. Since
remained intact. The This is Sweden’s national the 18th century, the park has
sculptor Johan Tobias library and an autonomous been a favourite recreation
Sergel created the Government department in its area for Stockholmers.
altarpiece, which is own right. Ever since 1661, when
probably his most there were only nine printing
important religious presses in Sweden, copies of p Stureplan
work. The every piece of printed matter Map 3 D4. Östermalmstorg.
memorial have had to be lodged with @ 1, 2, 55, 56, 91.
to French Kungliga Biblioteket (the Royal
philosopher Library). Since 1993 this A new town plan for Stock holm
Descartes (see requirement has also applied to towards the end of the 19th
p19) is also electronic documents. As there century recommended that the
Sergel’s work. are now some 3,000 printers and Stureplan area should become
Memorial to The paintings pub lishers in Sweden, the volume the capital’s new centre. The
Descartes on the dome of material is expanding rapidly. proposal was accepted, and the
were added in The collection now covers about
1899–1900 by Julius Kron berg. 4 million books and magazines,
More recent items of value more than 14 million ephemera,
include altar silver ware by 500,000 posters, 300,000 maps,
Sigurd Persson. 750,000 portraits and 500,000
The cemetery is the resting pictures. The Department of
place of the assassinated Prime Audiovisual Material (previously
Minister Olof Palme, as well as the Swedish National Archive of
the politician Hjalmar Branting, Recorded Sound and Moving
a key figure of the Social Images) is also here and holds a
Democratic movement. J T total of 8 million hours of material,
Sergel is also buried here. including TV and radio
Olof Palme
On 28 February 1986 the Swedish Prime
Minister Olof Palme was killed in a Stockholm
street on his way home from a cinema without
a bodyguard. The mur der happened at the
corner of Sveavägen and Tunnelgatan, whose
western section was renamed Olof Palmes
Gata. A memorial tablet has been placed
there. The murder provoked strong reactions
but to this day remains unsolved. His grave is
Olof Palme (1927–86) in the nearby Adolf Fredrik cemetery. Stureplan and the circular Svampen, one of
the city’s most popular meeting places
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area around Svampen (The d Hedvig Eleonora
Mushroom) rain shelter became Kyrka
a popular meeting place, as
more and more shops and Storgatan 2. Map 3 E4. Tel 08545 675
restaurants opened. However, a 70. Östermalm storg. @ 62.
new street layout after the intro Open 11am – 6pm daily. 5 12:15pm
Tue & Thu, 7pm Wed, 11am Sun.
duction of righthand driving in 8 by appt. 7 =
Sweden in 1967 brought its
halcyon days to a close. Founded in 1669 to give the
But now Stureplan has Swedish Navy its own place for
staged a phoenixlike comeback religious services, the church
out of the ashes of a major fire was not officially opened until
at the Sturebadet swimming 1737. The first plans were drawn
pool in 1985. Plans to revamp up by Jean de la Vallée, but the
the area were made: the pool work was completed with
was modernized, and the Göran Josuae Adelcrantz as
Sturegallerian shopping mall architect. The dome was added
was built, revitalizing the whole in 1866 – 8. The main bell was
eastern part of the city. Once Painstakingly restored Jugendstil cast in Helsingør, Denmark, in
again Stureplan became one decor at Sturebadet 1639 and hung in Kronborg
of the capital’s most popular Castle before being seized as
meeting places. s Östermalms a war trophy by General Carl
hallen Gustaf Wrangel (see p58).
a Sturegallerian Humlegårdsgatan 1–3. Map 3 E4. The church has many valu able
artifacts. The altarpiece Jesus on
and Sturebadet Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, 56, 62. the Cross was painted in 1738
Open 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, by Engelhard Schröder. The
Sturegallerian 36. Map 3 D4. 9:30am– 5pm Sat. 7 0
Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, 55, 56, ∑ ostermalmshallen.se designer of the majestic
91. Shopping mall Open 10am –7pm pulpit in NeoClassical style
Mon –Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, noon–5pm The temple of gastronomy, this was Jean Eric Rehn, who saw
Sun. Pool Tel 08545 015 00. Open market hall on Öster malmstorg his work unveiled on Christ mas
6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am– is as far removed from a fast Day in 1784.
10:30pm Sat & Sun; other times by food outlet as you could The new organ was built in
appointment & members only. - 0 imagine. Nowhere else in the the mid1970s, but Carl Fredrik
city is there such a range of Adelcrantz’s 1762 organ façade
The original Sturebadet swim highquality delicacies under is still in its original state.
ming pool, opened in 1885, was one roof. But it was certainly an Included in the silverware is a
sited within the presentday example of fast building. Taking Baroque chalice from 1650 and
StureCompagniet com plex. only eight months to erect, the a christening bowl dated 1685.
Rebuilt on its present site in hall was opened by King Oscar II The 1678 font is now housed in
1902, it was ahead of its time – in 1888. It is regarded as a fine the baptismal chapel, which
even in the 1930s it was example of the city’s late was added at the time of the
offering exercise facilities. 19thcentury architectural church’s restoration in 1944.
After a disastrous fire in 1985, heritage. Construction
a sum of 600 million kr was of a brick building
invested, partly to reconstruct around a castiron shell
the pool according to its was a novelty in
original design and partly to Sweden, and the
develop Sturegallerian, a world architects Gustaf
class shopping mall. The Clason and Kasper
architects managed to link the Sahlin won acclaim for
late 19thcentury exterior with their design, inspired
interiors of modern design by the arcades of
using marble, granite, steel, Medi terranean
copper, cedar and mahogany. markets. In the early
Indoor streets and squares days there were
with some 50 retail outlets 153 stalls and, after
have been created, including undergoing extensive
restaurants, cafés and various restoration, there
services. Today’s swimming pool are now 13 larger
is now the most traditional part specialist shops,
of the complex. It has a spa selling local delicacies,
offering luxurious treatments and some popular Östermalmshallen, a culinary temple inspired by markets
and also has a gym on site. lunch spots. in Southern Europe
072-073_EW_Stockholm.indd 73 19/09/17 12:01 pm
74 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Armémuseum, with the dome of Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka in the background
f Armémuseum building, this museum houses occupies a site next to the
a collection of 50,000 objects Royal Dramatic Theatre.
Riddargatan 13. Map 3 E4.
Tel 08-519 56 300. Östermalm- relating to the performing arts. The Mews arranges the trans-
storg. @ 62, 69, 52, 76. Open Sep– Exhibits include musical port for the Royal Family and
May: 11am–8pm Tue, 11am–5pm instruments, set design models, the Royal Household. It maintains
Wed–Sun; Jun–Aug: 10am–5pm daily. puppets and costumes, with about 40 carriages, a dozen cars
8 ^ 7 = 0 - some pieces dating back to the and carriage horses, and a few
∑ armemuseum.se 16th century. horses used for riding. The royal
The museum reopened horses are Swedish half-breeds.
The old armoury on after extensive renovations There are many treasures
Artillerigården has been the in February 2017. It places a among the carriages, such as
home of the Armémuseum very strong emphasis on the State coach with glass
(Royal Army Museum) since interaction, and visitors are panelling known as a “Berliner”,
1879. During the 1990s the encouraged to play with many made in Sweden at the Adolf
250-year-old building and its of the objects on show. The Freyschuss carriage works. It
exhibits underwent extensive large concert hall aims to was first seen at Oscar II’s silver
renovation. It is now one of the inspire the next generation jubilee in 1897 and is still used
capital’s best-planned and most of performers. on ceremonial occasions.
interesting museums. Incoming foreign ambassadors
It puts Sweden’s history in a travel to the Royal Palace for
1,000-year perspective, present- h Hovstallet their formal audience with the
ing the information in an Väpnargatan 1. Map 3 E4. monarch in Karl XV’s coupé. Open
exciting and comprehensive Tel 08-402 61 05. Kungsträd- carriages from the mid-19th
way. The march of history is gården, Östermalmstorg. century drawn by two horses are
illustrated by life-size settings, @ 2, 5, 52, 62, 69, 71, 76. normally used for processions.
and visitors can see many Open for guided tours. Closed public
unique objects from the hols. 8 1pm Sat (in English).
collection of 80,000 exhibits. & = ∑ kungahuset.se j Kungliga Drama
Processions for royal visits
in the city start from the Formerly on Helgeandsholmen, tiska Teatern
museum, and during the Hovstallet (the Royal Mews) Nybroplan. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-667 06
summer guards men march moved here in 1893, when the 80. Kungsträd gården, Östermalm-
from here to the Royal Palace new Parlia ment building was storg. @ 2, 52, 55, 62, 69, 76. Ticket
at 11:45am every day for the being constructed. Alongside Office Open noon–7pm Tue–Sat,
changing of the guard. the Museum of Music, it noon–4pm Sun. 8 ^ 7 0
∑ dramaten.se
g Swedish Museum When plans were drawn up in
of Performing Arts the early 20th century to build
the present Kungliga Dramatiska
Sibyllegatan 2. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-519 Teatern (Royal Dramatic Theatre)
554 90. Kungsträd gården,
Östermalmstorg. @ 2, 52, 62, at Nybro plan, the State refused
69, 76. Open 11am–6pm daily (to to give financial aid, so it was
8pm Wed). 8 & 7 0 = funded by lotteries instead. The
∑ scenkonstmuseet.se results exceeded all expectations,
giving the architect Fredrik
Situated in the former royal Coach and four, with riders on the left-hand Lilljekvist generous resources,
bakery, an elegant historic horses, at Hovstallet which he used to the full.
074-075_EW_Stockholm.indd 74 19/09/17 12:01 pm
CIT Y 75
The theatre, known as Wilhelmina became one
Dramaten, was opened of Sweden’s greatest
in 1908 after 6 years in collectors of European
construction, and its decor and East Asian fine and
was remarkable for the era. decorative art.
The Jugendstil façade inspired In 1920, the von
by Viennese archi tecture is in Hallwyls donated their
costly white marble. Christian Stockholm mansion
Ericsson provided the powerful and its contents to
relief frieze, Carl Milles the the Swedish State. The
centre section, and John terms of the bequest
Börjesson the bronze statues stipulated that the
Poetry and Drama. These are house must remain
complemented in the foyer essentially unchanged.
by Comedy and Tragedy by Courtyard of Hallwylska museet, seen through As a result, the original
Gusten Lindberg and Theodor the gateway arch decor and layout of the
Lundberg respectively. rooms has been perfectly
The lavish design continues gold – was chosen for the new preserved. Various styles
inside, both in the choice national stage but was changed were adopted through out.
of materials and in the to the traditional “theatre red” in The main salon, for example,
contributions by leading the 1930s. The auditorium was pays homage to the late
Swedish artists. The ceiling returned to its original colouring Baroque style. It is built
in the foyer is by Carl Larsson, during renovation in 1988. around four grandiose Gobelin
while the upper lobby’s back About 100 actors give some tapestries and is finished in
wall was painted by Oscar 1,200 perform ances every 24-carat gold leaf, clearly
Björck, and the auditorium’s year on the theatre’s 5 stages influenced by Hårleman’s
ceiling and stage lintel by to large audiences of more work at the Royal Palace
Julius Kron berg. Gustav than 300,000. (see pp50–53). It is difficult to
Cederström provided the believe that this was once a
central painting in the marble room in a private residence.
foyer, which also has some k Hallwylska The museum houses some
fantastic sculptures and busts. museet 50,000 objects amassed by
Georg Pauli gave his name Wilhelmina during her lifetime.
to a café, where visitors can Hamngatan 4. Map 3 D4. Tel 08- These include paintings,
see his paintings and enjoy 402 30 99. Östermalmstorg, porcelain, East Asian sculpture,
a meal without necessarily Kungsträdgården. @ 2, 55, 62, 69, antique furniture, books and
attending a performance. 76. 8 Jan–Jun & Sep–Dec: noon– manuscripts, arms and armour,
The 805-seat auditorium 4pm Tue & Thu–Sun, noon–7pm and photographs. Because the
Wed; Jul & Aug: 10am–7pm
and revolving stage with a Tue–Sun. ^ = house has been preserved
diameter of 15 m (49 ft) have a ∑ hallwylskamuseet.se exactly as it was when it passed
classic beauty. When Gustav III into the hands of the Swedish
founded the Royal Dramatic This museum is housed in the State, the kitchen utensils,
Theatre in 1788, it performed elegant 19th-century former office equipment and personal
in a building on Slottsbacken. residence of Count Walther von possessions of the family are
The probable colour scheme Hallwyl and his wife, Wilhelmina. also on display. Unusual items
there – blue, white and A wealthy heiress, include a chunk from the
Count’s beard and a slice of
Walther and Wilhelmina’s
wedding cake.
Perhaps the most remarkable
arti fact on display is a Steinway
grand piano, dating from
1896, adapted to fit into its
majestic setting with a “casing”
of hardwood and inlaid wood.
In 1990 it was flown to New
York in two sections, weighing
a total of 900 kg (1,980 lb),
for a renov ation lasting
several months. Visitors
strolling through the salon
can listen to a recording
of music played on this
Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern’s Jugendstil façade in white marble magnificent piano.
074-075_EW_Stockholm.indd 75 19/09/17 12:01 pm
BERZEELI
NÄCKSTRÖMSG. PARK
Kungsträdgården Nybroviken
TEATERGATAN
STALLGATAN BLASIEHOLMS-GATAN NYBROKAJEN
KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDSGATAN
HOVSLAGARGATAN
BLASIE-
HOLMEN NYBROKAJEN
STRÖMKAJEN
MUSEI-
PARKEN
MUSEIKAJEN
SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN
Skeppsholms- NORRA BROBÄNKEN
bron
Norrström
TYGHUS- ÖSTRA BROBÄNKEN
PLAN
BATTERI-
PARKEN
SKEPPS-
EXERCIS- HOLMEN
PLAN
AMIRALITETS-
PARKEN SVEN SKSUNDSVÄGEN
SVENSKSUNDSPARKEN
LÅNGA RADEN
VÄSTRAB R OBÄNKEN
HOLM-
AMIRALENS GRÖNA GÅNGEN
TORG Ö. BROB Ä NKEN
SÖDRA BROBÄNKEN
Kastellholms-
S trömmen
Saltsjön bron
KASTELL-
BACKEN
KASTELL-
PARKEN
ÖRLOGSVÄGEN
KAST E LLH OLM S KAJE N
076-077_EW_Stockholm.indd 76 18/11/15 2:51 pm
st ockholm area b y area 77
BLASIEHOLMEN &
SKEPPSHOLMEN
opposite the royal Palace on the eastern side entertainment venues. blasie holmen is also
of the strömmen channel lies blasieholmen, the place for auc tion houses, art galleries,
a natural springboard to the islands of antiques shops and second-hand bookshops.
skeppsholmen and kastellholmen. the quayside is the departure point for
several elegant palaces were built at sightseeing and archipelago boats.
blasieholmen during sweden’s era as a great skeppsholmen is reached by a wrought-iron
power in the 17th and early 18th centuries. bridge with old wooden boats moored next to
but the area’s present appearance was acquired it. In the middle of the 17th century the island
in the period between the mid-19th century, became the base for the swedish Navy, and
when buildings such as Nationalmuseum many of its old buildings were designed as
were erected, until just before World War I. barracks and stores. today they house some
In the early 1900s, stately residences such of the city’s major museums and cultural
as bååtska Palatset became overshadowed institut ions, juxtaposed with the avant-garde
by prestigious hotels, lavish banks and construction of the moderna museet.
Sights at a Glance
BERZEELI Museums Public Buildings
NÄCKSTRÖMSG. PARK 1 Östasiatiska museet 5 Konsthögskolan
2 Moderna museet pp82–3 Islands and Squares
3 ArkDes
7 Nationalmuseum pp84–5 6 Kastellholmen
Kungsträdgården 9 Blasieholmstorg
w Raoul Wallenbergs Torg
TEATERGATAN
STALLGATAN BLASIEHOLMS-GATAN NYBROKAJEN Synagogues
Nybroviken
0 Synagogan
KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDSGATAN
HOVSLAGARGATAN
BLASIE- Hotels and Restaurants
HOLMEN NYBROKAJEN 4 af Chapman
STRÖMKAJEN
MUSEI-
PARKEN 8 Grand Hôtel
q Berns
MUSEIKAJEN Concert Halls
e Musikaliska
NORRA
Skeppsholms- BROBÄNKEN
SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN
bron
Norrström
TYGHUS- ÖSTRA BROBÄNKEN
PLAN
BATTERI-
PARKEN
See also Street Finder
pp206–18 SKEPPS-
EXERCIS- HOLMEN
PLAN
AMIRALITETS-
Restaurants pp166–71 PARKEN SVEN SKSUNDSVÄGEN
SVENSKSUNDSPARKEN
1 B.A.R. LÅNGA RADEN
VÄSTRAB R OBÄNKEN
2 Hjerta AMIRALENS GRÖNA GÅNGEN
HOLM-
3 Långa Raden TORG Ö. BROB Ä NKEN
4 Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen S trömmen SÖDRA BROBÄNKEN
and Matbaren Kastellholms-
Saltsjön bron
KASTELL-
BACKEN
KASTELL-
PARKEN
ÖRLOGSVÄGEN
KAST E LLH OLM S KAJE N
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
The af Chapman youth hostel, on a ship moored opposite the Royal Palace For map symbols see back flap
076-077_EW_Stockholm.indd 77 18/11/15 2:51 pm
78 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Skeppsholmen
Skeppsholmen has long since lost its importance as a naval base Teater Galeasen is
and has been transformed into a centre for culture. Many of the Stockholm’s avant-garde
theatre for new Swedish
naval buildings have been restored, and traditional wooden and international drama.
boats are moored here, but pride of place now goes to the
internationally acclaimed Moderna museet.
The island is ideal for a full-day visit, with its location between
the waters of Strömmen and Nybroviken acting as a breathing
space in the centre of Stockholm. The attractive buildings, the
richly wooded English-style park and the view towards
Skeppsbron and Strandvägen also make Skeppsholmen an ideal
place for those who would just prefer to have a quiet stroll.
Skepps holmsbron
Blasieholmen
1. Östasiatiska museet
This porcelain dish with a five- Skeppsholmen Church
clawed dragon (Ming Dynasty, (1824–42) in well-
1573–1620) is included in a preserved Empire style.
remarkable collection of arts and
crafts from China, Japan, Korea and Salute battery
India, covering the period from
the Stone Age to the 19th century.
Admiralty House SVENSKSUNDSVÄGEN
The Fantastic
Paradise (1966), a
sculpture group by
Jean Tinguely and
Niki de Saint Phalle
for Montréal’s World
Exposition, has VÄSTRA BROBÄNKEN
stood outside the
site of the Moderna
museet since 1972.
Youth Hostel
Swedish Society
of Crafts & Design
5 Konsthögskolan
The first part of the Royal
Institute of Art was completed
in the 1770s, but it acquired
4 af Chapman its present appearance
Built in 1888, the full-rigged former freighter and school in the mid-1990s.
ship has served as a popular youth hostel since 1949. This cast-iron
Skeppsholmen Church (left) and the Admiralty House boar stands at
(1647–50, rebuilt 1844–6) are in the background. the entrance.
078-079_EW_Stockholm.indd 78 01/12/2015 15:10
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
Starsight & Street by Street “UK” LAYER
Starsight template
“UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
template V2 (OpenType)
Date 28th August 2012
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm
BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN 79
ÖSTERMALM
BLASIEHOLMEN
DJUR
Nybroviken GÅRDEN
SKEPPSHOLMEN
GAMLA
Strömmen
STAN
The festival area on the quayside below KASTELL
the Moderna museet was pro vided HOLMEN
for the Millennium celebrations. It is Locator Map
the venue for the Stockholm Music and See Street Finder map 5
Arts festival.
Loading crane built
in 1751 – the oldest
of its type in Sweden.
3 ArkDes
ArkDes highlights thousands
of years of building, with a
collection of models showing
the world’s architec tural
masterpieces, for example
this model of the Stockholm
City Library by Asplund.
ÖSTRA BROBÄNKEN
SVENSKSUNDSV. 2. Moderna museet
This museum,
designed by Rafael
Moneo, was opened in
1998, when Stockholm
was Cultural Capital of
LÅNGA RADEN Europe. It has an exciting
collection of modern art,
and pleasant views from
AMIRALSVÄGEN
its waterfront location.
Monument commemorating
the Battle of Svensksund in
1790 (see p24)
SÖDRA BROBÄNKEN Kastellholmen
KEY
Långa Raden is used by the
State Board of Culture, and also Suggested route
for exhibitions and as homes.
The buildings, dating from about 0 metres
1700, originally accommodated 100
King Karl XII’s bodyguard. 0 yards 100
078-079_EW_Stockholm.indd 79 18/11/15 2:51 pm
80 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
ArkDes, housed in the Neo-Classical former naval drill hall
1 Östasiatiska who was both interested in In the permanent exhibi tion,
museet and knowledge able about over a hundred models guide
archaeology. He eventually visitors through a thousand
Tyghusplan. Map 5 D2. Tel 010-456 12 bequeathed to the museum his years of building. These cover
00. Kungsträdgården. @ 65. own large collec tion of ancient categories from the oldest and
4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 11am–8pm Chinese arts and crafts. simplest of wooden houses
Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Sun. 8 ^ 7 The museum has been on to the highly varied building
= ∑ varldskulturmuseerna.se
Skeppsholmen since 1963, techniques and architectural
It is not unusual for Western when it was moved into a styles of the present day.
capitals to have a museum restored house that had It is fascinating to switch
devoted to art and archaeo logy been built in 1699–1700 as a from an almost 2,000-year-old
from China, Japan, Korea and depot for Karl XII’s bodyguard. longhouse to a Konsum
India. But it is not every supermarket, encountering
museum of Far Eastern in between examples of
antiquities that, like Östasiatiska 2 Moderna museet architecture in Gothenburg
museet, can claim one of the See pp82–3. dating from the 17th century
world’s foremost collections of to the 1930s and the Årsta
Chinese art outside Asia. bridge situated to the south
On a visit to the Yellow River 3 ArkDes of Stockholm.
valley in China in the early 1920s, Exercisplan. Map 5 E3. Tel 08-587 270 Models of historic architec-
the Swedish geologist Johan 00. Kungsträd gården. @ 65. tural works worldwide, from
Gunnar Andersson discovered 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 10am–8pm 2000 BC up to the present
hitherto unknown dwellings Tue, 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. 8 by day, are also on show.
and graves containing objects arrangement (for a fee). & ^ 7 The museum offers an
dating from the New Stone Age. 0 - = 9 ∑ arkdes.se ambitious programme – albeit
He was allowed by the only in Swedish – alongside
Chinese to take a rich selection The Swedish Centre for the permanent and temporary
of finds back to Sweden, and Architecture and Design shares exhibitions, including lectures,
these formed the basis for the an entrance hall and restaurant study days, walks around
museum, founded in 1926. A with the Moderna museet. It has the city, guided tours, school
key figure in its development also taken over its earlier home, visits and family events on
was the then Crown Prince, later the one-time naval drill hall. Sunday afternoons.
to become King Gustaf VI Adolf,
The Skeppsholmen Cannons
A salute battery of four 57-mm rapid-fire cannons is sited on
Skeppsholmen and is still in use. Salutes are fired to mark national
and royal special
occasions at noon on
weekdays and 1pm at
weekends: 28 January –
the King’s name day;
30 April – the King’s
birthday; 6 June –
Sweden’s National Day;
14 July – Crown Princess
Victoria’s birthday; 8
August – the Queen’s
name day; 23 December
Head of a woman, dating from the 12th – the Queen’s birthday. The salute battery on Skeppsholmen
century, at the Östasiatiska museet
080-081_EW_Stockholm.indd 80 19/09/17 12:01 pm
BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN 81
4 af Chapman sculpture, graphics, digital The charming brick pavilion by
media and video, as well as the bridge was built in 1882 for
Västra Brobänken. Map 5 D3. Tel
08-463 22 66. Kungsträd gården. offering courses for architects. the Royal Skating Club, which
@ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. - See The institute is not normally used the water between the
Where to Stay p159. open to the public, apart from two islands when it froze.
on Skeppsholmsdagen and an
The sailing ship af Chapman is “open house” in September.
one of Sweden’s most attractive Then visitors can enjoy the 7 Nationalmuseum
and unusual youth hostels and beautiful interiors, especially See pp84–5.
has 136 beds. The hostel also the vaulted 18th-century cellars.
includes the 152-bed building
facing the ship’s gangway. 8 Grand Hôtel
Visitors staying in more
conventional accommodation Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8. Map 4
can still go on board and C1. Tel 08-679 35 00. Kungsträd-
enjoy af Chapman’s special gården. @ 55, 59, 62, 65, 76.
atmosphere. The three-masted See Where to Stay p160 and Where
ship was built in 1888 at the to Eat p168. ∑ grandhotel.se
English port of Whitehaven
and used as a freight vessel. Rich in history and tradition, the
She came to Sweden in 1915 Grand Hôtel was established in
and saw service as a school 1874 and occupies a prime
ship until 1934. The City of location on the city’s waterfront.
Stockholm bought the ship Nobel Prize laureates and their
after World War II, and she has families have all been guests of
been berthed here since 1949. Grand Hôtel and the list of royalty
She is named after Fredrik The medieval-style castle on and artists who have stayed here
Henrik af Chapman, a master Kastellholmen, built in 1846–8 is impressive. The hotel’s interiors
shipbuilder who was born in are of great historical significance
Gothenburg in 1721. 6 Kastellholmen and have been designated as
Swedish National Treasures.
Map 5 F4. Kungsträdgården. Most notable are the Spegelsalen
5 Konst högskolan @ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. (Hall of Mirrors), a copy of the one
Right in the middle of at Versailles, and Vinterträdgården
Flaggmansvägen 1. Map 5 E3.
Tel 08-614 40 00. Kungsträd- Stockholm, Kastellholmen is (Winter Garden), with a ceiling
gården. @ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. a typical archipelago island height of 20 m (66 ft).
Open to the public for special events. with granite rocks and steep In 2007, renowned Swedish
7 - 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. cliffs. From Skeppsholmen it chef Mathias Dahlgren opened his
is reached by a bridge built in eponymous restaurant, Mathias
A stroll around Skeppsholmen 1880. Every morning since 1640 Dahlgren, at the Grand Hôtel.
provides an opportunity to have a sailor has hoisted the three- The other restaurant, called The
a closer look at the beau tifully tailed Swedish war flag at the Veranda, is celebrated not just for
restored 18th-century naval castle. Whenever a visiting its views but also for its traditional
barracks, which houses naval vessel arrives, the battery’s smörgåsbord and the growing
Konsthögs kolan (the Royal four cannons fire a welcoming popularity of The Cadier Bar,
Institute of Art). At the entrance salute from the castle terrace. named after the hotel’s founder.
there are two statues depicting
a lion and a boar. “In like a lion
and out like a pig” is an old
saying among the lecturers and
the 200 or so students at this
institute, rich in tradition.
The institute started out in
1735 as an academy for painting
and sculpture for the decorators
working on Tessin’s new Royal
Palace. Gustav III granted it a
royal charter in 1773. Before it
moved here in 1995, it was
located on Fredsgatan as part
of Konstakademien (see p68),
although since 1978 it had
been run independently with
departments for painting, Spegelsalen, the Hall of Mirrors, at the Grand Hôtel, Sweden’s first five-star hotel
080-081_EW_Stockholm.indd 81 19/09/17 12:01 pm
82 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
2 Moderna museet
The Museum of Modern Art is an airy, contemporary building,
designed by the Catalan architect Rafael Moneo in 1998.
The museum has a top-class collection of inter national
and Swedish modern and contemporary art, including
photography and film, from 1900 to the present day.
Built partly underground, the museum includes a cinema,
an auditorium and an exhibition gallery. There is an
excellent bookshop, and the Restaurangen Moderna
Museet has attractive views over the water.
. Green Split (1925)
To ArkDes Painted by Wassily Kandinsky
during his time as a teacher at
the Bauhaus, this work places an
emphasis on geometric shapes.
Bookshop
Main entrance to both
Moderna museet and
ArkDes (see p80).
Entrance level
Restaurangen
Moderna Museet
Auditorium
. Monogram
This work by Robert
Rauschen berg (c.1956)
Cinema includes an angora goat
Middle level with painted nose and
ears, a white car tyre and a
collage with fragments of the
word DADA. A self portrait?
Rafael Moneo
Rafael Moneo (b. 1937) is one of the world’s leading
contemporary architects.
As a young architect he
took part in the project to
build the Sydney Opera
House. His flair for adapting
building design to
sensitive surroundings was
recognized in 1989, when
he was chosen out of 211
Luncheon on the Grass (1962) This entries as the winner of
sculpture group by Picasso, executed the competition to design
in sandblasted concrete by Carl Nesjar, the Moderna museet. Moderna museet’s northern façade
stands in the museum garden.
082-083_EW_Stockholm.indd 82 19/09/17 11:53 am
BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN 83
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9 Blasieholmstorg
Map 4 C1. Kungsträdgården.
Practical Information @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76.
Exercisplan.
Map 5 E3. Two of the city’s oldest palaces
Tel 08-520 235 00. are located in this square,
Open 10am–6pm Wed & Thu; flanked by two bronze horses.
11am–6pm Sat & Sun; The palace at No. 8 was built in
10am–8pm Tue & Fri. Closed the mid-17th century by Field
Mon, 1 Jan, Easter, midsummer Marshal Gustav Horn. It was
eve, 24–25 & 31 Dec 8 Eng: rebuilt 100 years later, when it Monument to the victims of the Holocaust
summer. 7 0 9 - =
∑ modernamuseet.se acquired the character of an during World War II
18th-century French palace.
Transport Foreign ambassadors and depth of 15 m (50 ft). It is
@ 65. 4 Djurgårds färja. ministers started to lodge here built in what the architect,
Kungsträd gården.
when they visited the capital, so F W Scholander, called “ancient
it became known Eastern style”.
as the Ministers’ Alongside this synagogue,
Gallery Guide Palace. Later it which can be visited on
The large room on the entrance became a base for guided tours during
level is used for temporary overseas admin- the summer, is the
exhibitions. Three rooms on the istration and soon congregation’s
same level have alternat ing earned its present assembly room and
collections from three eras: name of Utrikes- library. Outside is a
1900–45, 1946–70 and 1971– ministerhotellet monument erected in
present. The middle level has an (Foreign Ministry Bronze horse on 1998 to the memory
auditorium, a cinema and an Hotel). Parts of the Blasieholmstorg of 8,000 victims of the
exhibition gallery. The lowest building are now used Holocaust whose
level (not shown) has an entrance. as offices by the Musical Academy relations had been rescued
and the Swedish Institute. and taken to Sweden during
Bååtska Palatset stands World War II.
Key nearby at No. 6. Its restored There is also an Orthodox
exterior dates from 1669 and synagogue in the city centre,
Museum’s own collections
was designed by Tessin the reached through the Jewish
Temporary exhibitions Elder. In 1876–7 it was partly Centre (Judiska Centret) on
Non-exhibition space rebuilt by F W Scholander for Nybrogatan at No. 19.
the Freemasons, who still have
their lodge here.
Another interesting complex q Berns
of buildings can be found on Berzeli Park, Nackströmgatan 8.
the square at No. 10. The façade, Map 3 D4. Tel 08-566 322 00.
which faces on to Nybrokajen, Kungsträdgården, Östermalmstorg.
along the water’s edge, is an @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. 7 ∑ berns.se
attractive example of the See also Where to Stay p159.
Neo-Renaissance style of
the 1870s and 1880s. This has been one of Stock-
holm’s most legendary
restaurants and entertainment
0 Synagogan venues since 1863. Both salons,
with their stately galleries,
Wahrendorffsgatan 3. Map 4 C1. Tel
08-587 858 00. Kungsträdgården. magnificent crystal chandeliers
@ 7, 55, 62, 65, 76. u 8am Mon, and elegant mirrors, were
Thu, Fri; 5:30pm Sat; Hebrew, partly restored to their original
Swedish. 8 15 Jun–4 Sep daily, and splendour by the British
on request. 7 ∑ jfst.se designer Sir Terence Conran
to mark the new millennium.
It took most of the 1860s to Berns is one of Stockholm’s
build the Conservative Jewish biggest restaurants, with
. The Child’s Brain (1914) community’s syna gogue on seating for 400 diners.
The surrealist Giorgio de Chirico what was once the seabed. The gallery level, with its
gave his work the title The Ghost, When it was inaug urated in beautifully decorated dining
but Louis Aragon renamed it in a 1870, the synagogue was rooms, was made famous by
pamphlet about the artist’s 1927 standing on 1,300 piles, which August Strindberg’s novel
retrospective exhibition. had been driven down to a The Red Room (1879).
082-083_EW_Stockholm.indd 83 19/09/17 11:53 am
84 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
7 Nationalmuseum
The Nationalmuseum is a landmark on the south ern side
of Blasieholmen. The location by the Strömmen channel
inspired the 19th-century German architect August Stüler
to design a building in the Venetian and Florentine
Renaissance styles. Completed in 1866, the museum houses
Sweden’s largest art collection, with 16,000 paint ings and
sculptures. In addition there are around 500,000 drawings
and graphics from the 15th century to the early 20th
century. Other treasures include a 500-year-old tapestry, . The Kitchen Maid (1651)
This warm, vivid image is one of
and Scandinavia’s largest collection of porcelain. The Rembrandt’s most representative
Nationalmuseum is currently closed for restoration work works. It exemplifies his
and is expected to reopen in autumn 2018. Until then, position on the border
items from the museum’s collection will be making between portrait
and genre
appearances at temporary exhibitions around the city. painting.
. The Lady with
the Veil (1769)
Alexander Roslin’s
elegant portrait is often
considered a symbol for
18th-century Sweden.
Level 2
Atrium through
levels 1 and 2
Objects of
Virtue
The Love Lesson (1716–17)
Antoine Watteau is renowned for his so-called fêtes
galantes, depicting young couples in playful mood. Sculpture
gallery
Gallery Guide Study
The Nationalmuseum is undergoing extensive collection
renovations aimed at creating larger public
spaces, and will be closed until autumn 2018. Entrance Atrium
Check the website for more details. Entry for
wheel chairs
084-085_EW_Stockholm.indd 84 19/09/17 11:53 am
BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN 85
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST w Raoul
Wallenbergs Torg
Practical Information
Södra Blasieholmshamnen. Östermalmstorg.
Map 5 D2. @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76.
Tel 08-519 543 00.
∑ nationalmuseum.se This square is dedicated to
Closed Currently closed due to Raoul Wallenberg (1912–
restoration work. Due to reopen unknown), who during World
in autumn 2018. War II worked as a diplomat
8 English: tours twice a week
The Upper Staircase at the Swedish Embassy in
At the back is Carl Larsson’s during summer. 7 9 Budapest. By using Swedish
monumental mural The Entry of 0 = “protective passports” he helped
King Gustav Vasa of Sweden in Transport a large number of Hungarian
Stockholm 1523. On the opposite Kungsträdgården. @ 65; or 2, Jews to escape deportation to
wall is his Midwinter Sacrifice. 53, 55, 76 to nearby Karl XII:s Torg. the Nazi concentration camps.
In 1945, when Budapest was
liberated, he was impris oned
by the Soviets and, according
to Soviet sources, he died in
Moscow’s Lubianka prison in
1947. His fate, however, has
never really been satisfactorily
explained.
The small square adjoins
Berzelii Park and Nybroplan and
faces the Nybrokajen waterfront.
The definitive design of the
square has been hotly debated
La Chasse aux Lions (1855) because it is set in a sensitive
The quintessential Romantic painter, architectural environment, but
Eugène Delacroix uses terse, rapid great efforts have been made to
brushstrokes and primary colours to ensure that it remains a worthy
depict the turmoil of this scene. memorial to Raoul Wallenberg.
Amor and e Musikaliska
Psyche (1787)
Johan Tobias Sergel Nybrokajen 11. Map 4 C1. Tel 08-545
was the foremost 703 00. Kungsträd gården,
sculptor of the Östermalmstorg. v 7. @ 2, 52, 62,
Gustavian era. Inspired 69, 76, 97. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
by Greek mythology, Open for concerts (phone for
Level 1 this piece shows a scene details). 7 ∑ musikaliska.com
from the story of Amor
and Psyche. Constructed in the 1870s,
this building facing the waters
of Nybroviken once housed the
Musical Academy. Its con cert
hall, opened in 1878, was the
first in the country, and was
Entrance used for the first presentations
level of the Nobel Prize in 1901.
Designed in Neo-Renaissance
style with cast-iron pillars,
the hall has a royal box and
galleries, and can seat up to
600 people.
Key to Floorplan After extensive restoration, it
Painting and sculpture is now run by the state musical
La Grenouillère (1869) organization Rikskonserter,
Applied art and design
Auguste Renoir’s scene is an Impressionist which has provided a much-
Temporary exhibitions reaction to classical art. Light becomes the needed con cert stage for
Non-exhibition space subject; the artist has left the details sketch- chamber, choral, jazz and folk
No admission like to convey a fleeting moment. music (see p177).
084-085_EW_Stockholm.indd 85 19/09/17 11:53 am
086-087_EW_Stockholm.indd 86 19/09/17 11:53 am
ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA 87
DJURGÅRDEN
Once a royal hunting ground, Djurgården recreational park during the 18th century,
is an island right in the centre of Stockholm and in the time of troubador Carl Bellman
covered by a natural park. It has very few (see p98) many inns appeared. The Gröna
buildings with only around 800 permanent Lund funfair was estab lished just a few
residents and forms part of Stockholm’s decades before Artur Hazelius founded the
Royal National City Park, the only one of its fascinating outdoor museum of Skansen
type in the world (see p123). and Nordiska museet in around 1900. Today,
From 1580 parts of Djurgården were a there is a wealth of museums on Djurgården
royal animal reserve, where Johan III kept offering a mixture of nature, culture and
reindeer, red deer and moose. A century later entertainment. A royal connection survives
the area was fenced off by Karl XI to be used in the beautiful Rosendal Palace, which has
for hunting. It developed into a popular magnificent Empire-style decor.
Sights at a Glance
Museums & Galleries Historic Areas Restaurants pp166–71
2 Junibacken e Djurgårdsstaden & Beckholmen 1 Hasselbacken
3 Nordiska museet pp92–3 t Rosendals Slott & Trädgårdar 2 Solliden Skansen
5 Spritmuseum Memorials 3 Spritmuseum Restaurant
6 Vasamuseet pp94–6 4 Estoniaminnesvården 4 Ulla Windbladh
7 Museifartygen 5 Villa Godthem
8 Biologiska museet Bridges
9 Vikingaliv 1 Djurgårdsbron
0 Liljevalchs Konsthall Amusement Parks
q ABBA The Museum w Gröna Lund
r Skansen pp100–101
y Waldemarsudde
u Thielska Galleriet
See also Street Finder
pp206–18
Djurgårdsbrunnsviken
KÄRLEKS- R O SENDALSVÄGEN
GALÄR- UDDEN
PARKEN ROSE N D A L SVÄ G E N
DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN
GALÄR-
KYRKO-
GÅRDEN DJURGÅRDEN
HAZELIUSPORTEN SIRIS HO V S VÄGEN ORANGERIVÄGEN
BOLLNÄSTORGET
ALKÄRRET
BELLMANS VÄG
ALLMÄNNA DJURGÅRDSSLÄTTEN SINGELBACKEN BELLMANSRO DSVÄGEN
VALMUN
GRÄND
DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN
DJURGÅ R D S VÄ G E N
Beckholmssundet Beckholms- Ryssviken
bron FRISENS PARK
Beckholmen Saltsjön
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Reindeer at Skansen For map symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_Stockholm.indd 87 19/09/17 11:53 am
88 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Around Lejonslätten
Lions were kept for animal-baiting up to 1792 on the spot where
Nordiska museet now stands, hence the name of this area –
Lejonslätten (The Lion Plain). Today visitors can safely stroll along
the waterfront, look at the boats and take in the panorama across
to Nybroviken, Skeppsholmen and the heights of Södermalm.
This area also offers several sights of cultural interest.
The majestic Nordiska museet, built in Neo-Renaissance style,
reflects Swedish cultural history over almost 500 years. In 2 Junibacken
Vasamuseet lies the beautifully restored 17th-century warship, This fun place for children is
while two more vintage ships are moored outside. Nearby, dedicated to the author
Junibacken brings Pippi Longstocking and other favourite Astrid Lindgren. It also
features characters from
children’s book characters imaginatively to life. stories by other authors.
LADUGÅRDSLANDSVIKEN
GALÄRPARKEN
6. Vasamuseet
The royal warship Vasa was salvaged
after 300 years in the depths of Stock-
holm’s harbour. It is now housed in
Stockholm’s most popular museum.
7 Museifartygen
Alongside Vasamuseet are
two faithful vessels: the ice-
breaker Sankt Erik and the
lightship Finngrundet.
4 Estoniaminnesvården
Near the Galär cemetery,
a nat ional memorial has
been erected to the
0 metres 100 852 people who lost their
0 yards 100 lives in the Estonia ferry
disaster on the night of
27–28 September 1994.
Key The ferry sank on its way
Suggested route from Tallinn to Stockholm.
088-089_EW_Stockholm.indd 88 19/09/17 11:53 am
DJURG Å RDEN 89
1 Djurgårdsbron ÖSTERMALM Lilla Värtan
There has been a bridge to
Djurgården since 1661. The
current bridge was built in
1896 to mark the Stockholm DJURGÅRDEN
Exhibition the following year.
Saltsjön
Strömmen
SÖDER
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 5, 6 & 7
Blå Porten is a copy of one
Strand vägen of the many blue-painted
gateways once set in a 20-km
(12-mile) fence around the
former royal hunting reserve.
D J U R G Å R D S B R U N N S V I K E N
Kaptens udden
Lejon slätten 3. Nordiska museet
Artur Hazelius, creat or of Skansen, also founded
Nordiska museet, which portrays Swedish cultural
history from the 1520s to the present day.
Djur gårds-
brunnsbron
DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN
ROSENDALSVÄGEN
Villa Lusthusporten
was built in the Italian
style during the 1880s.
DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN
Spritmuseum Vikingaliv
Galärkyrkogården
(cemetery) Karl XV’s equestrian
statue by Charles Friberg
8 Biologiska museet was erected in 1909. The
Swedish fauna is shown in realistic natural king (1826–72) was a great
settings in this charming old museum. patron of the arts.
088-089_EW_Stockholm.indd 89 19/09/17 11:53 am
90 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Swedish children’s authors.
When she heard about Staffan
Götestam’s project for a
children’s cultural centre she
was adamant it should not be
just an Astrid Lindgren museum.
Nevertheless Junibacken is
still something of a tribute to
the much-loved author. It was
officially opened by the Royal
A colourful scene from one of Astrid Lindgren’s stories, seen from the mini-train Family in the summer of 1996
and has become one of the
1 Djurgårdsbron and Freja, the goddess of love city’s most popular tourist
and fertility. attractions. A mini-train takes
Map 3 F4. @ 44, 69, 76. v 7.
4 Djurgårdsfärja. The gate of Blå Porten, just to visitors from a mock-up of
the left on the Djurgården side, the station at Vimmerby (the
The Djurgården bridge came recalls the time during the 17th author’s home town) to meet
into use a few days before century when the island was a some of her characters, finishing
the major Art and Industrial royal hunting ground, and the with a visit to Pippi’s home in
Exhibition opened in Stockholm surrounding fence was Villekulla Cottage, where
in May 1897. Made at the punctuated by blue-painted children can play in the different
Bergsund plant in Södermalm, wooden gate ways. This gate, rooms. There is also a well-
the bridge is richly ornamented decorated with Oscar I’s stocked children’s bookshop
with cast-iron railings in the monogram, was made from and a restaurant.
form of stylized water plants. cast iron in 1849.
At that time Sweden was in
union with Norway, and King 3 Nordiska museet
Oscar II’s monogram and motto 2 Junibacken See pp92–3.
“The sister nations’ wellbeing” Galärvarvsvägen. Map 5 F1.
can be seen on the central Tel 08-587 230 00. @ 44, 69. v 7.
span. The capital’s patron saint, 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open Jan–Apr: 4 Estonia
Erik, is depicted on the pillar 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; May–Aug: minnesvården
supports among sea gods and 10am–5pm daily; Sep–Dec:
water lilies. 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 0 Galärkyrkogården. Map 5 F2. @ 44.
Wrought-iron lamps and - = ∑ junibacken.se 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
sculptures portraying mytho-
logical gods, created by Rolf You can find them all here – On the night of 27–28
Adlersparre, adorn the four Pippi Longstocking, Mardie, September 1994 the ferry
granite pillars at either end. Karlsson on the Roof, Emil, MS Estonia sank in the Baltic
On the Strandvägen side, Nils Karlsson Pyssling, Ronja on its journey from Tallinn to
the pillars show Heimdal, the the robber’s daughter, the Stockholm with the loss of 852
watchman, and Frigga, the Lionheart Brothers and many lives. The deceased came from
wife of Oden. On the opposite more characters from Astrid many countries including
side are Thor, with his hammer, Lindgren’s children’s books. In Sweden, Estonia, Latvia, Russia,
accordance with the popular Finland, Norway, Denmark,
novelist’s wishes, visitors can Germany, Lithuania, Morocco,
also meet the creations of other the Netherlands, France, the
Astrid Lindgren and Pippi Longstocking
Astrid Lindgren wrote around 100 children’s books, which have been
translated into 74 languages, making her one of the world’s most-
read children’s authors. Publishers
turned down her first book about Pippi
Longstocking, but she went on to win a
children’s book competition with it two
years later, in 1945. Her headstrong and
tough character Pippi soon won the
hearts of children worldwide.
Following Lindgren’s death in 2002,
the Swedish government created the
world’s largest prize for children’s
One of the beautifully decorated pillars literature in her name. Astrid Lindgren
supporting Djurgårdsbron
090-091_EW_Stockholm.indd 90 19/09/17 12:01 pm
DJURGÅRDEN 91
Museifartygen: the lightship Finngrundet and ice-breaker Sankt Erik outside Vasamuseet
United Kingdom, Canada, and boasts an impressive array of 7 Museifartygen
Belarus, Ukraine and Nigeria. exhibits. The highlight of the Galärvarvet. Map 5 F2. Tel 08-519 549
Their names and their fate will museum is the Absolut Art 00. @ 44. v 7 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
never be forgotten. Collection, which includes over Open 22 May–30 Aug: 11am–6pm
So reads the inscrip tion on 800 works by famous daily; also during various public
this national memorial to the international artists such as Andy holidays, ring for details. 8 & =
vic tims of the Estonia disaster Warhol, Keith Haring, Damien ∑ sjohistoriska.se
adjoining the cemetery of Hirst and Louise Bourgeois. The
Galärkyrkogården. It was works were produced in The two vintage ships moored
designed by the Polish artist conjunction with the advertising alongside Vasamuseet are
Miroslaw Balka (b. 1958), who campaigns that helped make both fine examples of the ships
created it together with the two Absolut one of the best-known built to handle various tasks in
landscape architects Anders brands in the industry. It is the Swedish waters during the early
Jönsson and Thomas Andersson. first time these works have been 20th century. The lightship
Unveiled on 28 September united under one roof. Finngrundet, built in 1903, used
1997, the memorial is made of The museum is housed in to be anchored during the ice-
blasted granite and forms a Stockholm’s historic Galärskjulen, free season on the Finngrund
roofless, triangular room with or “galley sheds”, which date from banks in the southern Gulf of
11-m (36-ft) long sides and a the 18th century. The sheds were Bothnia. In the 1960s lightships
height of 2.5 m (just over 8 ft). modelled on a Venetian design started to be replaced by
The exact position of where the and were built for the galleys of permanent automatic
ferry sank is given on a metal the Royal Navy, which were stored lighthouses, so Finngrundet was
ring around a tree in the triangle. on land in these buildings. withdrawn from service and
With relatives’ consent, the names Visitors can dine at the became a museum ship. At 31 m
of most of the dead have been museum’s elegant fine dining (102 ft) long and 6.85 m (22 ft
carved in the walls. restaurant, which serves dishes 6 in) wide, with a draught of 3.1 m
made from seasonal, locally (10 ft 2 in), she was designed for
5 Spritmuseum sourced organic produce. a crew of eight. The light had a
range of 11 nautical miles.
Galärskjulen, Djurgården, 6 Vasamuseet Built in 1915, Sankt Erik was
Djurgårdsvägen 38. Map 6 A3. Sweden’s first seagoing ice-
Tel 08-121 313 00. Karlaplan. See pp94–6. breaker. This classic Baltic model
@ Spårvagn City. Open 10am–6pm slides up over the ice and crushes
daily in summer; 10am–5pm daily in it. She also has a system that
winter. & 8 - = enables the ship to be rocked
∑ spritmuseum.se
sideways to loosen the ice and
widen the channel. One of the
The Museum of Spirits looks at two three-cylinder engines is
the unique history of alcoholic Sweden’s largest working marine
beverages in Sweden. Spanning steam engine. The ice-breaker is
two floors, the museum is the 60 m (197 ft) long and 17 m (56 ft)
only one of its kind in the country Snaps label, Spritmuseum wide and needs a crew of 30.
090-091_EW_Stockholm.indd 91 19/09/17 12:01 pm
92 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
3 Nordiska museet The Proposal
This painting in
the Homes and
Resembling an extravagant Renaissance Interiors section, is
castle, Nordiska museet portrays everyday by Knut Ekwall
life in Sweden from the 1520s to the present (1843–1912) and
depicts a town
day. It was created by Artur Hazelius flat in the 1880s.
(1833–1901), who was also the founder of The room is heavily
Skansen (see pp100–101). In 1872, he started decorated with
to collect objects that would remind future objets d’art, orna-
generations of the old Nordic farming culture. ments and textiles.
The present museum, designed by Isak Gustaf
Clason, was opened in 1907. Today it has more
than 1.5 million exhibits in its collection, with
everything from luxury clothing and priceless
jewellery to everyday items, fur niture and
children’s toys, and replicas of period homes.
Level 3
Corridor to
staircase
Level 2
(Main Hall)
Ground floor
State Bedchamber from Ulvsunda Castle
At the end of the 17th century, the lord of the
manor at Ulvsunda accommodated prominent
guests in this prestigious bedchamber.
Key to Floorplan
Folk art
Small Objects 1700–1900
Homes and Interiors
Table Settings, Traditions
Obelisk with an
Strindberg Collection inscription meaning:
Jewellery “The day may dawn
Sápmi exhibition when not even all our
Photographic exhibition gold is enough to form a
picture of a bygone era.”
Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space Main entrance
Entrance
Gallery Guide
The museum has four floors. From the
entrance, stairs lead up to the temporary
exhibitions in the Main Hall. On the
ground level is the Reference Room. . Table Settings
Level 3 has the Strindberg Collection, In the mid-17th
Jewellery, Table Settings and Traditions. century, table
Sections on Folk Art, Homes and Interiors, settings were a feast
Small Objects, and the Sami (Sápmi) for the eyes. A swan
People and Culture are on Level 4. is the centrepiece at
this meal.
092-093_EW_Stockholm.indd 92 19/09/17 12:01 pm
DJURGÅRDEN 93
Jewellery
This exhibition displays VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
over 1,000 pieces of
jewellery, which have Practical Information
Djurgårdsvägen 6–16. Map 3 F5.
been divided into Tel 08-519 547 00. Open 10am–
different sections
according to period, 5pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm Wed) (Jun–
Aug: 9am–6pm). & free after 5pm
fashion or material.
exc summer. 8 9 Eng. 7 0
- = ∑ nordiskamuseet.se
Level 4 Travel Information
@ 44, 69, 76. v 7.
4 Djurgårdsfärja.
Sápmi
Exhibition
Bridal Crown
It used to be a tradition
of the church to lend
this crown to brides as
a symbol of innocence.
Children’s
playroom
. Strindberg Collection
This picture of a cliff, Falaise III (1902),
painted by the writer August Strindberg
(see p71), is among the museum’s
collection of 16 of his paintings.
. Main Hall
As visitors enter this
huge hall, they are
greeted by a
monumental statue
Entrance with access of King Gustav Vasa. It
for pushchairs, prams was made in painted
and wheelchairs and gilded oak by
Carl Milles in 1924.
092-093_EW_Stockholm.indd 93 19/09/17 12:01 pm
94 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
6 Vasamuseet
After a maiden voyage of just 1,300 m (4,265 ft) in calm
weather, the royal warship Vasa capsized in Stock holm’s
harbour on 10 August 1628. About 30 people went down with
what was supposed to be the pride of the Navy, only 100 m
(330 ft) off the southernmost point of Djurgården. Most of the
guns were salvaged from the vessel in the 17th century, but Gun-Port Lion
it was not until 1956 that a marine archaeologist’s persistent More than 200 carved
search led to the rediscovery of Vasa. After a complex salvage ornaments and 500 sculp ted
figures decorate Vasa.
operation followed by a 17-year conservation programme, the
city’s most popular museum was opened in June 1990, less
than a nautical mile from the scene of the disaster.
. Lion Figurehead
King Gustav II Adolf, who
com missioned Vasa, was
known as the Lion of the
North. So a springing lion
was the obvious choice
for the figurehead. It is
4 m (13 ft) long and
weighs 450 kg (990 lb).
Emperor Titus
Replica carvings of 20
Roman emp erors stand
on parade on Vasa.
Entrance
KEY
1 Information desk
2 To the restaurant
3 The main mast was originally
52 m (170 ft) high.
4 Reconstruction of the upper Bronze Cannon
gun deck More than 50 of Vasa’s
64 original cannons were
5 A model of the Vasa to a scale salvaged already in the
of 1:10 17th century. Three 11-kg
6 Main film auditorium (24-lb) bronze cannons are
on display in the museum.
094-095_EW_Stockholm.indd 94 19/09/17 11:53 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
Starsight & Street by Street “UK” LAYER
“UK” LAYER
Starsight template
(Source v1.9)
template V2 (OpenType)
Date 28th August 2012
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm
DJURGÅRDEN 95
. Stern VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Vasa’s stern was badly
damaged but has been Practical Information
painstakingly restored to Galärvarvsvägen 14.
reveal the ship’s mag- Map 5 F2.
nificent ornamentation. Tel 08-519 548 00.
Open 10am–5pm daily (Wed
until 8pm); 1 Jun–31 Aug:
8:30am–6pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 23–25 Dec.
8 English guided tours several
times daily. & 7 0 - =
∑ vasamuseet.se
Transport
@ 44, 69. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
v 7.
Gun Ports
Vasa carried 64
heavy cannons on its
two gundecks – more
than earlier Swedish
ships of the same size.
This contributed to
its capsizing.
Upper Deck
The entrance to the
cabins was towards
the stern. This area Gun Deck
was the grandest part Although visitors cannot
of the ship, reserved board the ship, there is a
for senior officers. full-size copy of a part of
Part of the original the upper gun deck, which
mainmast can be gives a good idea of what
seen on the right. conditions were like on board.
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96 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
Exploring the Vasamuseet
The Royal Warship Vasa has been restored to 98 per cent of its
original appearance. The low salt content of the water saved
the ship’s timber – which came from thousands of oaks – from
attacks by shipworms. The hull was all present, but fitting the
13,500 loose pieces together was like doing a jigsaw puzzle
without a picture, as there were no detailed designs to follow.
The salvage operation produced more than 700 sculpted figures
and carved ornaments, as well as many everyday items. A sailor’s simple belongings found on Vasa
war propaganda. fully equipped, and the divers
Many of the were able to recover many
builders and everyday items, including
carpenters who food and drink. But when the
worked in the chief diver, Per Edvin Fälting,
shipyard that built tasted the 333-year-old butter
Vasa came from from a tub made of wood
Holland, while most and tin, sores erupted around
of the sculptors, his mouth.
whose work was The museum has full-scale
typical of the late models of a part of Vasa ‘s upper
Carved soldiers on Vasa’s stern Renais sance and gun deck and the Admiral’s
early Baroque eras, cabin. The sailors and soldiers
came from Germany. The had to eat and sleep on deck
The Ship
German wood carver Mårten among the cannons. No wonder
In 1628 Vasa was potentially Redtmer made most of the that in the 17th cen tury more
one of the world’s mightiest ship’s larger sculptures. died from illness than in battle.
ships. It was able to carry 64 Created out of oak, pine and In a fascinating exhibition
cannons and 300 soldiers (out lime wood, the figures were of original artifacts, you can
of a total 450 men on board). inspired mainly by Greek see the medical equipment
Vasa was equipped for both mythology, as well as the Bible that was used, an officer’s
traditional close combat and for and 17th-century Swedish backgammon game, some of
artillery battles. From its high royal personalities. the sailors’ wooden spoons and
stern it would have been plates and the officers’ dinner
possible to fire down on Life on Board service in pewter and earthen-
smaller ships. The musketeers ware. The divers also found
had shooting galleries for Vasa’s first destination on its about 4,000 coins, made mainly
training, and on the upper deck maiden voyage, with about 150 from copper, and a chest still
were so-called “storm pieces”, people on board, was intended neatly packed with hats, clothing
erected as protection against to be the Älvsnabben naval and other personal belongings.
musketry fire. base in the southern Stockholm Replicas of some of these
All this may appear very archipelago, where 300 soldiers artifacts are on sale in the
impressive, but it is uncertain were to embark. The ship was museum shop.
exactly what the ship’s role
would have been if it had The Salvage Operation
survived. The main task of the
Swedish navy at that time had The marine archaeologist Anders Franzén had been looking for Vasa
been to transport weapons for many years. On 25 August 1956 his patience was rewarded, when
and soldiers as well as to he brought up a piece of blackened oak on his plumb line. From the
protect shipping or block autumn of 1957, it took divers 2
harbours. It seems doubtful that years to clear tunnels under the
Vasa would have been suitable hull for the lifting cables. The first
for these roles. lift with six cables was a success,
after which Vasa was lifted in
16 stages into shallower water.
The Imagery of Power Thousands of plugs were then
The warship’s many figures and inserted into holes left by rusted
elaborately carved ornaments iron bolts. The final lift started on
formed an important part of 24 April 1961, and on 4 May Vasa Vasa in dry dock after being
that era’s language of power was finally towed into dry dock. salvaged between 1956 and 1961
and were designed as a type of
096-097_EW_Stockholm.indd 96 19/09/17 12:01 pm
DJURGÅRDEN 97
8 Biologiska museet 0 Liljevalchs
Konsthall
Lejonslätten. Map 6 A3. Tel 08-442
82 15. @ 44. v 7. Open Apr–Sep: Djurgårdsvägen 60. Map 6 A3. Tel
11am–4pm daily; Oct–Mar: noon– 08-508 313 30. @ 44, 47. v 7. 4
3pm Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun. Djurgårdsfärja. Open 11am–8pm Tue
8 by arrangement. & = & Thu, 11am–5pm Wed & Fri–Sun.
∑ biologiskamuseet.com
Closed Mon. 8 2:15pm Mon–Fri. &
7 0 - = ∑ liljevalchs.se
The architect Agi Lindegren,
commissioned to design the This heritage build ing is
Museum of Biology in the regarded as one of northern
1890s, based his plans on the Europe’s most attractive art
simple lines of the medieval galleries. It was designed by
Norwegian stave churches. the architect Carl G Bergsten
The aim was to ”maintain a and built in 1913–16 in Neo-
biological museum to include Classical style.
all the Scandinavian mammals The gallery features Liljevalch’s
and birds as stuffed specimens collections of Swedish, Nordic
in natural surround ings”. The and inter national art from the Gröna Lund funfair seen from
result was the world’s first 20th century, as well as handi- Kastellholmen
museum of its type. Many of the crafts dating from the same
creatures are shown against a period. Every year, four or five own piano; when the composer
diorama background, with about major exhibitions are staged, tinkles the ivories, the museum
300 species of Scandinavian including the Spring Salon. piano also starts playing.
birds and land mammals in
their respective biotypes.
q ABBA The w Gröna Lund
9 Vikingaliv Museum Lilla Allmänna Gränd 9. Map 6 A4.
Djurgårdsvägen 68. Map 6 A3. Tel Tel 010-708 91 00. @ 44. v 7.
Djurgårdsvägen 48. Map 6 A3. Tel 08-121 328 60. @ 44. v 7. 4 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open late Apr–
08-400 229 90. @ 67. v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 30 Apr–30 Aug: mid-Sep: opening hours vary. & 7
Djurgårdsfärja. Open 10am–8pm daily 10am–8pm daily. Last slot 6:30pm; 31 0 - ∑ gronalund.com
(autumn/winter: to 5pm). & under- Aug–13 Dec: 10am–6pm Mon–Tue.
7s free. 0 = 7 ∑ vikingaliv.se Last slot 4:30pm. 10am–8pm Wed–Thu. A tavern called Gröna Lund (Green
Last slot 6:30pm; 14 Dec–31 Dec: Grove) existed on this site in the
Sweden’s only dedicated Viking 10am–6pm Mon-Sun; Fri–Sun 18th century, and it was one of
museum is a thrilling mix of 10am–6pm. Last slot 4:30pm. & 9 the haunts of the renowned trou-
interactive experiences and 0 = 7 ∑ abbathemuseum.com badour Carl Michael Bellman
historical exhibition. The main (see p98). Jakob Schultheis used
attraction is Ragnfrid’s Saga, a This museum is dedicated to the tavern’s name for the modest-
dramatic 11-minute ride that ABBA, Sweden’s best-known pop sized funfair that he opened here
gives visitors the opportunity to band. In addition to stage cos- in 1883 with a two-level horse-
view life as a Viking family. Other tumes, gold records and an audio drawn round about as the main
highlights include a life-size guide with fascinating insights attraction. Today Gröna Lund is
man based on DNA from Viking into life as a band, the museum Sweden’s oldest amusement
bones. An extensive exhibition delivers a delightfully interactive park, with 30 rides ranging from
featuring 30 artifacts illustrates experience. Visitors can audition child-friendly to thrillingly fast.
all aspects of Viking life – from to be ABBA’s fifth member at a The 130-day season is short but
religion and law, to gender and perfect replica of the band’s Polar hectic. However, Gröna Lund
food. Vikingaliv’s noteworthy Studio and record a music video. draws about 1.4 million visitors
restaurant, Glöd, focuses on There is also a piano that is con- each year. Its exciting attractions
traditional Nordic cuisine. nected to Benny Andersson’s include a haunted house, a ghost
train and an 80-m (262-ft) free-
fall tower. There is also a wooden
roller coaster that is said to be
the best of its type in the world.
The amusement park boasts
13 restaurants and cafés, three
stages, a cabaret restaurant with
space for 600 guests, and a 200-
seat theatre. The main stage has
hosted world stars such as Bob
Marley, who, in 1980, played to
Liljevalchs Konsthall’s spacious main exhibition hall a record audience of 32,000.
096-097_EW_Stockholm.indd 97 19/09/17 12:01 pm
98 ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
e Djurgårdsstaden
& Beckholmen
Map 6 A4. @ 44. v 7. 4
Djurgårdsfärja.
Behind Gröna Lund amuse-
ment park lies Djurgårds staden,
a tranquil oasis of wooden
houses, providing flats for about
200 people. The area was
originally developed from a The Karl Johan-style Rosendals Slott on Djurgården
town plan drawn up around the
Admiralty church yard in 1736, to 17th century, was used as a t Rosendals Slott
house workmen at the nearby warehouse for commercial & Trädgårdar
Johan Lampas shipyards. goods. It was also used to store
When the Djurgården tar and pitch. The fire hazard Rosendalsvägen. Map 6 C3. v 7.
shipyard took over this area in meant that such danger ous Palace Tel 08-402 61 30. Open for
1768, the carpenters were given items could not be stored any guided tours Jun–Aug: Tue–Sun;
1 Sep–27 Sep every hour (noon–3pm
the opportunity to buy their closer to the city centre. Sat & Sun). 8 every hour noon–3pm.
homes. The company then In 1848 the Wholesalers’ & 7 Gardens Open all year. - =
erected the majestic two-storey Society decided to build a summer. ∑ royalcourt.se
stone building at Lilla Allmänna shipping repair yard on the
Gränd 15–17 with offices, island, and two docks were What was considered else where
employees’ homes and a chapel. blasted out of the solid rock on as Empire style was named Karl
Other buildings on this street the southern side. They were Johan style in Sweden after King
also date from the 18th century later widened to accom modate Karl XIV Johan (1818–44). One of
such as Apoteks huset, the more wharves. In 1917 another the best examples is Rosendal
shipyard manager’s residence, large dock was opened, Palace, built as a summer
and Mjölnargärden, now named after King retreat for the king.
belonging to the amusement Gustaf V, and the Constructed in the
park. Several two-storey wooden two were used by 1820s and designed
houses were built on the the Navy and the by Fredrik Blom, a
churchyard, which had fallen Finnboda Door lintel, Rosendals Slott’s prolific architect of
into disuse, in the 19th century. shipbuilding firm. Gold Room the era, the palace
At the junction of Östra The fleet moved to was one of Sweden’s
Varvsgränd and Breda Gatan the island of Muskö in 1969, and first prefabricated homes. In 1913,
is the house of the ship’s car- Finnboda remained until 1982. it was opened to the public as
penter Sven Månsson. Enlarged The docks and houses form an a museum devoted to the life
in 1749, the building still looks unusual industrial setting. The and times of Karl XIV Johan
much as it did then, with 18th-century tar inspector’s and repre sents a pioneering
original tiled stoves and wood residence, the dock master’s work of historic restoration.
fires. It is now used by the 19th-century home, and The decor is magnificent, with
Djurgården Local Culture Society. workmen’s cottages from the Swedish-made furniture and
Lying just to the south of 1890s are well preserved. lavish textiles in wonderful
Djurgårdsstaden is the island of colours. The carpeting and
Beckholmen, which, during the r Skansen curtains are worth a visit in
themselves. The dining room
See pp100–101. is fitted out in heavily woven
An Immortal Troubadour
Carl Michael Bellman (1740–95) was a much-loved trouba dour.
Gustav III gave him a job as secretary of a
lottery, but he was best known around
Stock holm’s many taverns – particularly on
Djurgården. His works about the drunken
watchmaker Jean Fredman and his
contemporaries (Fredman’s Epistles and
Fredman’s Songs) have never lost their
popularity and form part of Sweden’s
musical heritage. A bust of Bellman was
unveiled on Djurgården in 1829 in the Bust of Bellman by
Well-preserved wooden homes presence of Queen Desideria. J N Byström (1829)
in Djurgårdsstaden
098-099_EW_Stockholm.indd 98 19/09/17 12:01 pm
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Filled with beautiful illustrations, useful maps, and colorful images, this guide will help you find your way effortlessly around Stockholm.
Covering the city center out to Blasieholmen, Skeppsholmen, Gamla Stan, and beyond to Djurgården, this travel guide is packed with itinerary suggestions, restaurant recommendations, and handpicked hotels. Marvel at the city's naval history at the Vasamuseet, wander the beautiful grounds of Drottningholm, and discover why Stockholm is often referred to as "the Venice of the North." Complete with a handy pullout map, the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Stockholm is the perfect companion for an in-depth exploration of Sweden's modern capital.
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