(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Stockholm

DJURGÅRDEN  99


fabric to create the impression The Old Castle (1893)
of being in a tent. Tiled stoves and The Cloud (1896).
are everywhere, along with Based on works by
some grandiose artifacts and his contemporaries,
delightful details. In front of the the collection
palace is a large bowl made in represents early
porphyry from Karl XIV Johan’s 20th-century Swedish
own workshops at Älvdalen in art with names such as
central Sweden. Oscar Björck, Carl Fredrik
Close to the palace is Rosendals Hill, Richard Bergh,
Trädgårdar, a biodynamic market Nils Kreuger, Eugène
garden managed by a foundation Jansson, Bruno Liljefors
since 1984. Its aim is not just to and Anders Zorn. Hornsgatan (1902) by Eugène Jansson,
use biodynamic cultivation Prince Eugen was a in Thielska Galleriet
methods but also to run courses, generous patron to the
lectures and exhibitions. Plants next generation – for example, u Thielska Galleriet
are available to buy at the shop, the group known as “The Sjötullsbacken 6–8. Map 7 F4.
and there is a café. Young Ones” – so works by Tel 08-662 58 84. @ 69. Open noon–
younger artists including Isaac 5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu). 8 by
Grünewald, Einar Jolin, Sigrid appt. & - ∑ thielska-galleriet.se
y Waldemarsudde Hjertén and Leander Engström
are also in the collection. When the magnificent
Prins Eugens Väg 6. Map 6 C4.
Tel 08-545 837 00. v 7. Open Sculptors of the same era are apart ments of the banker
11am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 7 0 well represented, particularly Ernest Thiel (1860–1947) on
- = ∑ waldemarsudde.se Per Hasselberg whose works Strandvägen started to overflow
can be seen in the gallery and with his excellent collection
Prince Eugen’s Waldemar sudde, the park. of contemporary paintings,
which passed into State Along with the architect he commissioned the well-
ownership after his death in Ferdinand Boberg, Prince known architect Ferdinand
1947, is one of Sweden’s most Eugen drew up the sketches Boberg to design a dignified
visited art museums. The prince for the house, completed in villa on Djurgården.
was trained as a military officer 1905. The same architect was However, during World War I
but became a success ful artist called in later to plan the gallery, Thiel lost most of his fortune.
and was one of the leading which was finished in 1913. In 1924, the State bought his
landscape painters of his This now includes parts of collection, mostly covering
generation. He produced the collection of some 2,000 Nordic art from the late 19th
monumental paintings for works, as well as the Prince’s and early 20th centuries, and
Kungliga Operan, Kungliga own paintings. opened Thielska Galleriet in
Dramatiska Teatern and The guest apartments his villa two years later.
Rådhuset. Among his own remain largely unchanged to Thiel was regarded as
works hanging in Waldemars- this day, and the two upper something of a rebel in the
udde, his former home, are floors with the Prince’s studio banking world and he was
three of his most prized at the top are used for particularly fond of works by
paintings: Spring (1891), temporary exhibitions. painters in the Artists’ Union,
which had been formed in 1886
to counter the influence of the
traditionalist Konstakadamien
(see p68).
There are paintings by
all the major Swedish artists
who formed an artists’ colony
at Grèz-sur-Loing, south of
Paris, such as Carl Larsson,
Bruno Liljefors, Karl Nordström
and August Strindberg.
And there are paintings by
Eugène Jansson, Anders
Zorn and Prince Eugen, as
well as wooden figures by
Axel Petersson and sculptures
by Christian Eriksson. Thiel
also acquired works by foreign
artists, not least his good
Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsudde, seen from the water friend Edvard Munch.




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100  ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA

e Skansen

The world’s first open-air museum, Skansen was opened by Artur
Hazelius in 1891 to show an increasingly industrialized society
how people once lived. About 150 houses and farm buildings
were assembled from all over Sweden, portraying the life of both
peasants and landed gentry, as well as Lapp (Same) culture. The
Town Quarter has wooden urban dwellings and crafts including
glass-blowing and printing. Nordic flora and fauna feature every-
where, with bears, wolves and moose in natural habitat . Älvros Farmstead
enclosures and more exotic creatures in the Aquarium. The living room in this 500-
Many festivals are celebrated in Skansen (see pp28–31). year-old wooden cottage
from Härjedalen shows the
tools for daily tasks.
Swedenborg’s Pavilion
Set in the rose garden is the pavilion
that used to belong to the philo-
sopher and scientist Emanuel
Swedenborg (1688–1772).















. Town Quarter
Original Stockholm wooden
town houses replicate a
medium-sized 19th-century
town. Glass-blowers, bakers
and other craftsmen
demonstrate their traditional
skills in restored workshops.


KEY
1 Skansen Aquarium
2 Solliden stage
3 Hazelius Entrance
4 A cable car runs from the
Hazelius Entrance.
5 Tingsvallen/Bollnästorget is the
venue for the Christmas market and
Midsummer celebrations.
6 Wolves
7 Skåne farmstead
8 Skogaholm Manor The main
building in this Carlo vingian manor
estate (1680) comes from the
Skogaholm ironworks village in
central Sweden.
Main entrance




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DJURGÅRDEN  101


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Djurgårdsslätten 49. Map 6 B3.
Vastveit Tel 08-442 80 00. Open May–Sep:
Storehouse 10am–6pm (Jul & Aug: 8pm);
This storehouse from Oct–Mar: 10am–3pm daily (Sat &
eastern Norway was Sun: 4pm); Apr: 10am–4pm daily.
built in the 14th cen- Closed 24 Dec. & 7 0 -
tury and is Skansen’s = Seglora Church 5 11am
oldest building. Sun. 8 Jun–Aug. ∑ skansen.se
Transport
@ 44. v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.












. Bear Pit
Skansen’s brown bears are firm
favourites, especially in April,
when the new cubs emerge.














Seglora Church
This shingle-roofed wooden church
was built in 1729–30 in western
Sweden and has an interesting
interior decor with a pulpit that
is even older than the church itself.
It is popular for weddings.








Hornborga Cottage
A timber cottage with a
straw and peat roof from
western Sweden shows
0 metres 100
how poorer people lived
0 yards 100 in the 19th century.



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M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD  103
MALMARNA &

FURTHER AFIELD



As Stockholm started to grow, the heart of 19th century into an affluent residential area
the city, Gamla Stan, became cramped and with grand, wide boulevards, contrasting
building spread out to the surrounding areas, with the 1930s Functionalist style of the
known as “Malmarna” (the “ore hills”). Parts of adjoining Gärdet district. This is the location
these now make up pre sent-day Stockholm. of some of Stockholm’s most important
Södermalm came into the ownership of the museums, including Historiska museet,
city in 1436. Much of Stockholm’s old charm with its impressive Gold Room, and Folkens
can still be found in the areas around Museum Etnografiska.
Fjällgatan, Mosebacke and Maria berget. To the west is Kungsholmen, the centre
To the north, the Norrmalm area expanded for local government, with dis tinguished
rapidly and became known as Stockholm’s buildings such as Stadshuset (the City Hall)
northern suburb in the 17th century. Much and Rådhuset (the Law Court). The Royal
of Vasastan is a residential area, but in recent National City Park (Ekoparken), the first of its
years it has become popular because of its kind in the world, is a green area of ecological
wide choice of restaurants. The once-rural and cultu ral interest surrounding the city and
Östermalm was transformed in the late reaching into its central districts.



Norrtull & Ekoparken Key
see pp122–7
Central Stockholm
Motorway
Major road
Minor road


Vasastan
see pp118–21
Östermalm & Gärdet
see pp104–13









Kungsholmen
see pp114–17







Södermalm &
South of Söder 0 kilometres
see pp128–35 2
0 miles 1
Picturesque night-time view of Södermalm



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104  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

Östermalm & Gärdet

The four wide boulevards, Strandvägen, Karlavägen, Narvavägen
and Valhallavägen, were created around 1870–80 as part of
the development of Östermalm into one of the city’s most
affluent residential districts, adjoining the extensive green
area of Ladugårdsgärde. In addition to embassies and the
headquarters of Swedish Radio and TV, four leading museums
are located in this green oasis, as well as Kaknästornet. The
area between Östermalm and the former military exercise
grounds was developed in the 1930s with housing in the Housing at Karlaplan, built in the late
clean lines of the Functionalist style typical of the period. 19th century

Sights at a Glance
1 Strandvägen 8 Tekniska museet t Försvarshögskolan
2 Historiska museet (see pp106–7) 9 Gärdet y Stadion
3 Karlavägen 0 Etnografiska museet u Tekniska Högskolan
4 Sveriges Radio och TV q Kaknästornet i Engelbrektskyrkan
5 Berwaldhallen w Ladugårdsgärde
6 Diplomatstaden e Filmhuset
7 Sjöhistoriska museet r Tessinparken
Stockholm Ö
Tekniska Key
LIDINGÖVÄGEN Gärdet Central Stockholm
högskolan
Stadion
Major road
STURE GATAN Stadion VALHALLAVÄGEN Minor road
KARLAVÄGEN
Karlaplan
Öster- KARLA VÄGEN LINDARÄNGSVÄGEN
SIBYLLEGATAN NARVA VÄGEN DJURGÅRDSBRUNNSV ÄGEN
malms- LINNÉGATAN BANÉR GATAN LILLA VÄRTAN
torg OXENSTIERNSG
STRANDVÄGEN
0 metres 750
0 yards 750
1 Strandvägen becoming “a street, the like of soon became the elegant
which will not be found boulevard envisaged and, then
Map 5 E1. @ 69, 76. 
Östermalmstorg, Karlaplan. v 7. anywhere else in Europe”. It was a as now, it was a popular place
long pro cess. Even after all the for admiring the elegant
In the early 1900s Stockholm’s ten stately buildings had been façades, watching the boats
richest citizens lived in palatial completed, the wooden quay and to see and be seen.
new houses along Strandvägen. erected in the 1860s was The financiers behind the
Seven of them were wholesale something of an eyesore. It was housing projects of the early
merchants. Up to 1897’s major still used up to the 1940s by boats 1900s were wealthy and called
exhibition on Djurgården, the hilly bringing fire wood from the on the best architects, including
and muddy former Ladugårds­ archipelago islands. I G Clason (1856–1930). Clason
lands Strandgata had been All the same, Strandvägen was influenced by Italian and
moving towards the goal of and its three rows of lime trees French Renaissance styles for his
work on No. 19–21 (Thaveniuska
Huset) and No. 29–35
(Bünsowska Huset), where he
designed gateways made of
ship’s timbers. No. 55 (Von
Rosenska Palatset) was also
created by him.
2 Historiska
museet
Strandvägen with stately houses and boats along the quayside See pp106–7.
For map symbols see back flap


104-105_EW_Stockholm.indd 104 20/09/17 11:19 am

ÖSTERM ALM & GÄRDE T  105

3 Karlavägen secondary school
building was designed
Map 3 E3.  Karlaplan, Stadion.
@ 1, 42, 44. by Ragnar Östberg
with sculptures by Carl
Until 1885 Karlavägen was Eldh; at Grev gatan is
known as Esplanaden, a 42-m Incoming Sea by
(138-ft) wide avenue planted Håkan Bonds; at
with lime trees and flower beds. Karlaplan a marble
Towards the end of the 19th sculpture by Gert
century several impressive Marcus; at Tysta Gatan
houses were built there, many Jeanette by Curt
in Neo-Renais sance style. The Thorsjö; and at Swedish Television’s main building, next to Swedish
street has retained its character Banérgatan is Urn by Radio’s headquarters
as a grand boulevard despite a Hedy Jolly-Dahlström.
lot of building and the arrival of Finally, at No. 100, is the long 4 Radio-och
shops and offices. Garrison administration build ing TV-husen
A major development was with a sculpture group at the
undertaken in the 1960s, when entrance, a work in glazed Oxenstiernsgatan 20 & 34. Map 6 A1,
the central section of the road stoneware by Gustav Kraitz. A2, B1.  Karlaplan. @ 4, 56, 76. SR
was gradually converted into The fountain and round pond Tel 08-784 50 00. 8 by appt. 7
an open-air sculpture gallery. at Karlaplan were added in 1929. ∑ sr.se SVT Tel 08-784 00 00.
At the crossroads with Engel- The Aviator is by Carl Milles and 8 by appt. 7 ∑ svt.se
brektsgatan is The City by Lars was unveiled two years later.
Erik Husberg; at Villa gatan a The headquarters of Swedish
female figure by the French Radio (SR) and Swedish
sculptor Paul Cornet; at Television (SVT) take up a
Floragatan Gunnar Nils son’s 12 ha (30 acres) site alongside
Mimi, which can also be seen Ladugårdsgärde. The area’s long
at other places in the city; at history as a mili tary training
Sturegatan Living Iron by Willy depot is reflected by several old
Gordon, a gift from the LKAB buildings once used for stores.
mining company, whose head Now it is the site not just of the
office at No. 45 acquired a modern radio and TV buildings
façade relief by Eric Grate in (de signed by the architects Erik
1970. Also situated at the Ahnborg and Sune Lindström),
crossroads with Sturegatan is but also of three old buildings
Scatola by the Italian sculptor with military connections: the
Arnoldo Pomodoro. gunpowder cellar from 1717,
At Nybroplan is Man – Horse – the old stone coach-house
Carriage by Asmund Arle; at from 1750, and the Karl Johan
Sibyllegatan Woman with Hand storehouses from 1820. Both
Mirror by Ebba Ahlmark-Hughes; architects also designed
in front of Östra Real a bust of the Berwaldhallen (see p108), a
author August Blanche (1811–68) Fountain on Karlaplan, on the tree-lined concert hall, which is linked
by Aron Sandberg – the Karlavägen to SR and SVT by a tunnel.
Swedish Radio started its
transmissions from Malm-
Boats along Strandvågen
skillnadsgatan on 1 January
Until the 1940s sailing vessels used to carry firewood from Roslagen 1925. It moved to No. 8
on the Baltic coast to the quayside at Strandvägen. This trade had Kungsgatan in 1928 and into
lost its importance by the 1950s, and boating enthusiasts started its new premises in 1961.
buying up these old vessels. SVT started transmissions from
Some were renovated and sailed the Svea Artillery Regiment’s old
to the Caribbean, others became premises on 24 October 1954. In
illegal drinking or gambling clubs 1969 it moved into the new TV
on Strandvägen. New harbour building in the former barracks
regulations led to the formation area, where an office block was
of two associations to administer added 4 years later. Additions in
the boats. About 40 have 1983–7 included a building for
survived and are owned by
people who want to preserve a news broadcasts. SVT now
piece of cultural heritage. By covers an area of 51,600 sq m
Old wood-carrying boats along the every boat there is a sign (555,220 sq ft) with eight
Strandvägen quay describing its history. studios, three of which are
used for news programmes.



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106  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

2 Historiska museet

Sweden’s Historiska museet (History Museum) was opened in Upper floor
1943. It was designed by Bengt Romare and Georg Sherman.
Sculptor Bror Marklund was responsible for the decoration
around the entrance and the richly detailed bronze gateways
depicting events in early Swedish history. The museum
originally made its name with its exhibits from the Viking era,
as well as its outstanding collections from the early Middle
Ages. Contemporary church textiles are also on show. Many
of Historiska museet’s gold treasures have been gathered
together to form one of Stockholm’s most remarkable
sights, Guldrummet (the Gold Room).











Courtyard

Bronze Age Find
This Bronze Age artifact, thought
to be a percussion instrument,
was discovered in a bog in
southern Sweden in 1847.







Ground floor
. The Alunda Elk
This 21­cm (8­inch) stone axe, discovered in
1920 at Alunda in central Sweden, resembles
an elk’s head. It is a ceremonial axe, probably
made in Finland or Karelia in around 2000 BC. Rosengården

The Bäckaskog Woman
The 1.5­m (5­ft) long
Bäcka skog woman
lived around 5000 BC.
She died at the age of
40–50 and was buried
sitting in a cramped pit.


Key
The Viking Era
Prehistoric Era This eventful era is represented
Middle Ages and Baroque by exhibits including a Viking
sword with artistic embellish­
Temporary exhibitions
ments, and ornaments in the
Non­exhibition space shape of Nordic animals.



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ÖSTERM ALM & GÅRDE T  107


The Skog Tapestry VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This once hung in the
wooden church at Skog Practical Information
in northern Sweden. It is Narvavägen 13–17.
one of the museum’s Map 3 F4. Tel 08-51 95 56 00.
oldest textile treasures. Open Jun–Aug: 10am–5pm daily;
Sep–May: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun,
11am–8pm Wed. Closed 24, 25 &
31 Dec. 7 ^ The Gold Room.
- = ∑ historiska.se
Transport
 Karlaplan;  Östermalmstorg,
v 7 to Djurgårdsbron. @ Hop-
on-hop-off; 67, 69, 76.
Baroque Hall
. Maria from Viklau
This Madonna figure on the
upper floor is the best-preserved
example from Sweden’s early
medieval period. The colourful
wooden sculpture is richly gilded.
Gallery Guide
The exhibitions are divided
History of Sweden chronologically on two floors with the
prehistoric section on the ground floor
Stairs descending and the Middle Ages on the upper floor,
to the Gold Room where there is also a Baroque Hall. In
the base ment, reached by a staircase
from the entrance hall, is the Gold
Main entrance Room with priceless exhibits from
prehistoric times to the medieval period.
. The Gold Room
Since the early 1990s the museum’s many The Elisabeth
priceless gold artifacts have been on Reliquary was origi-
show in Guldrummet (the Gold Room), a nally a drinking goblet,
700-sq m (7,550-sq ft) underground vault which was mounted
built with 250 tons of reinforced concrete with gold and precious
to ensure security. The room is in two stones in the 11th cen-
circular sections. The inner section houses tury. In about 1230 a
the main collection, with 50 kg (110 lb) of silver cover was added
gold treasures and 250 kg (550 lb) of silver to enclose the skull of
from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages. St Elisabeth. In 1631 it
was seized as a trophy
for Sweden during the
Thirty Years’ War.









The Gold Collars were found between 1827 and
1864; the three-ringed collar in a stone quarry in
eastern Sweden, the five-ringed in a ditch on the
island of Öland, and the seven-ringed in a mound
of stones in the county of Västergötland. The underground Gold Room in Historiska museet





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108  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD


Nobelparken, the park adjoining
the embassies, is named after
the scientist Alfred Nobel
(1833–96). In the early 20th
century plans for a Nobel Palace
in the park were drawn up by
the architect Ferdinand Boberg,
but the project never came to
fruition. On the north side of
Strandvägen is the Törner Villa,
a heritage wooden house built
in 1880. The villa is named
after a firemaster at Nobel’s
gunpowder factory.
7 Sjöhistoriska
museet
Berwaldhallen – the concert hall is home to the Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra
Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 24. Map 6 C2.
5 Berwaldhallen 6 Diplomatstaden Tel 08-519 549 00. @ 69. Open
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 7 -
Dag Hammarskiölds väg 3. Map 6 A2.  Karlaplan. @ 56, 69,76. = ∑ sjohistoriska.se
Map 6 A2. Tel 08-784 18 00.
 Karlaplan. @ 4, 42, 56, 69. The elegant villas that gave the The National Maritime
Open noon–6pm Mon–Fri. area of Diplomatstaden its Museum’s architectural
^ - 0 ∑ berwaldhallen.se name stretch along Nobelgatan design and location on
and the eastern part of Djurgårdsbrunnsviken are
On 30 November 1979 the Strandvägen (from No. 74). worthy of a country with a
Swedish Radio Symphony The first house for a foreign long coastline and numerous
Orchestra and the Radio Choir diplomat was built in the 1910s, archipelagos and lakes.
acquired their own concert when the British ambassador Sjöhistoriska museet focuses
hall, Berwaldhallen. Since moved into Nobelgatan 7. on shipping, shipbuilding and
then the hall has become a Nearby is Engelska Kyrkan (the naval defence, and there are
national showcase for Swedish English Church), which was built fascinating exhibits, both
music. It is named after Franz in the city centre in the 1860s permanent and temporary,
Berwald (1796–1868), one of but was moved to the on these themes.
Sweden’s greatest composers. diplomatic quarter in 1913. There are some 100,000
The architects Erik Ahnborg In the 1980s the church was exhibits, including more than
and Sune Lindström won an finally completed with the 1,500 model ships. The oldest
award for their “wonderful and addition of an octagonal parish ship was built in the 17th
sensitively designed concert hall. Villa Bonnier at No. 13 was century, and the oldest Swedish
hall”. Hans Viksten, Hertha designed by Ragnar Östberg ship is a reproduction of the
Hillfon and other artists and was a gift to the State by a so-called “Cathedral ship” from
undertook the decoration prominent publishing family. It the early 1600s. The collections
of the foyer. Nature has made is now used by the Government include every conceivable type
its own contribution in the for official functions. of ship – from small coasters
form of untouched areas of The embassies of Hungary, and Viking longboats to oil
rock, which were blasted out Turkey, South Korea, Norway, tankers, coal vessels, dinghies,
to accommodate two-thirds Germany, the UK and USA are full-riggers and submarines.
of the six-sided building. all located in or near the area. A series of models on a scale
The Swedish Radio
Sym phony Orchestra and
Radio Choir give approximately
100 concerts per year in the
hall, which has contributed to
establishing this venue as an
internationally renowned
concert stage, attracting
audiences of 150,000 a year.
In late August the hall hosts
the annual Baltic Sea Festival,
a classical music festival that
presents world-class musicians
from around the world. Majestic buildings in the diplomatic quarter at Djurgårdsbrunnsviken




108-109_EW_Stockholm.indd 108 19/09/17 12:01 pm

ÖSTERM ALM & GÄRDE T  109


of 1:200 show the deve-
lopment of ships in
Scandinavia from the
Iron Age to the
pre sent day.
There are also full-
scale settings, which
give a good idea of life
on board the ships.
Among them are the
beautiful original cabin
and elegant stern from
the royal schooner
Amphion. The ship was
built at the Djur gården
shipyard and designed
by the leading
shipbuilder F H
Chapman. It was Gustav The galley Lodbrok, one of many maritime models at Sjöhistoriska museet
III’s flagship in the 1788–
90 war with Russia. Contrasting by researchers. The sq m (129,000 sq ft) of well-
with this is the cramped and photographic collection has stocked exhibition space plus a
damp-preserved forecastle from 300,000 pictures, while the library with 50,000 volumes
the schooner Hoppet, where library covers all aspects of and a large collection of
four crew members ate, slept seafaring and war at sea. There technical magazines. It is also
and spent their time off watch. is a special children’s section the home of Sweden’s first
The museum has some with a work shop that is Science Centre, Teknorama,
notable examples of ship open on Saturdays, with many “hands-on” expe-
decoration from the late 17th Sundays and during riments aimed particularly at
century. They include part of school holidays. During children and young people.
the national coat of arms the summer a The machinery hall is the
recovered by divers in the dinghy-sailing largest exhibition area with
1920s from the stern of the school is arranged many powered machines from
Riksäpplet, which sank at for children aged different eras. Among them is
Dalarö in 1676. When 8–14. The attractive the country’s oldest preserved
Carolus XI, an 82-cannon museum building was steam engine, built in 1832 and
ship, was launched one of the architect once used in a coal mine in
from the shipyard in Ragnar Östberg’s southern Sweden. The classic
Stockholm in 1678 last works and was T-Ford is there, too, as well as
the stern had a large opened in 1938. early Swedish cars from Volvo,
relief portrayal of Karl On the gable facing Scania and Saab.
XI on horseback. The Djurgårdsbrunns viken The museum also has
relief was possibly is The Sailor, a sections on the history of
removed some years Figurehead, about 1850 monument to the tele communications and
later, when the ship victims of naval war the computer, electric power,
was renamed Sverige, but it by Nils Sjögren. book-printing and the Swedish
was saved and is now in the forestry industry. The mining
museum. There are many fine and processing of iron and
figureheads in the collection, 8 Tekniska museet steel is also highlighted.
including one depicting Museivägen 7. Map 6 C2. Tel 08-450
Amphion, the son of Zeus, 56 00. @ 69. Open 10am–5pm Mon–
playing his lyre, which once Tue, Thu–Fri, 11am–8pm Wed,
adorned the schooner of the 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. 8 by
same name. appointment. & 7 = 0 -
Linked to the museum is the ∑ tekniskamuseet.se
Swedish Marine Archaeology
Archive, which contains a mass Anyone planning to visit the
of information, including a Museum of Science and
complete listing of shipwrecks Technology should allow
with 10,000 entries from 1720 plenty of time. Throughout the
to the present day. The ship- 20th century it accumulated a
design archive has documents wealth of exhibits connected
covering most eras of maritime with Sweden’s technical and Ericsson telephone made in 1903 for
history and is used extensively industrial history. It has 12,000 Czar Nicholas II




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110  m alm arna & fur ther afield

9 Gärdet scientists from the 18th century the large-scale immigration
to the present day. The into the country in the late
Rindögatan.  Gärdet.
∑ housingprototypes.org imaginative displays are 20th century.
intended to offer visitors not Alongside the permanent
Gärdet, one of the largest only a better understanding displays, the museum puts
residential neighbourhoods of the unknown or unfamiliar on a changing series of
in Stockholm, was built as the from around the world, temporary exhibitions
result of a design competition but also of the cultural highlighting different
in the late 1920s, at a time connections between aspects of the
when the Swedish Modern such far-off places collection. There
Movement was in full swing. and Sweden through is also a good
The competition was won by explaining how and reference library.
the architect Arvid Stille, and why the objects The museum also
this area exhibits the graceful came into the houses an unusual but
form of Functionalism for which museum’s collection. well-regarded restaurant,
Sweden became known at the The explorer Sven Religious mask from Matmekka. It is
time, and which continues Hedin (1865–1952), British Columbia renowned for using
to exert a strong influence to who was the last top-quality organic
this day. One characteristic of Swede to be ennobled (in ingredients and seasonal,
Swedish architecture from that 1902), contributed many locally grown produce to
period was the emphasis it exhibits, including Buddha create an appealing menu that
placed on decoration whilst still figures and Chinese costumes, combines traditional Swedish
adhering to the basic principles as well as Mongolian temple cuisine with exotic influences
of Functionalist ideology. tents donated by leaders of the from all around the world.
The individual buildings in Kalmuck people in western
Gärdet were designed and built China to King Gustav V.
between 1935 and 1939 by a A Japanese tea house, built q Kaknästornet
variety of architects, including by 15 Japanese craftsmen to Ladugårdsgärdet. Map 7 D1. Tel 08-667
Sture Fröhlén, Albin Stark, Ernst a design by Professor Masao 21 80. @ 69, 69K. Open Jun–Aug:
Grönwall, Wolter Gahn, Björn Nakamura, was opened in 9am–10pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun;
Hedvall and Sven Wallander, 1990. It is a work of art in itself, Sep–May: 10am–9pm Mon–Sat,
all within Stille’s overall plan. offering a space for reflection 10am–6pm Sun. 8 by appoint ment.
and meditation within a 9 & 7 0 - =
traditional setting. During the
0 Etnografiska summer months visitors can Anchored by 72 steel poles,
museet take part in tea ceremonies, each one driven 8 m (26 ft)
while at other times the house into the rock, the 34-storey
Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 34. can be viewed from outside. Kaknästornet soars to a height
Map 6 C2. Tel 010-456 12 00. @ 69. Another section of interest of 155 m (508 ft). The tower,
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm is dedicated to the native
Wed). 8 & 7 0 - = designed by the architects
∑ varldskulturmuseerna.se/ peoples of North America. Here, Bengt Lindroos and Hans
etnografiskamuseet there are masks, textiles and Borgström, was opened in 1967.
ceramics from various tribes. It was erected as a centre for
The National Museum of Closer to home, the museum the country’s television and
Ethnography is a showcase for also reflects upon the radio broad casting and also
the collections brought home multicultural influences on contains technical equipment
to Sweden by travellers and Sweden brought about by to conduct conferences by
















The Japanese tea house in the gardens of the Etnografiska museet




110-111_EW_Stockholm.indd 110 18/11/15 2:51 pm

Österm alm & gÄrde t  111

e Filmhuset
Borgvägen 1–5. Map 6 B1. Tel 08-665
11 00.  Karlaplan. @ 1, 4, 56, 72, 76.
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Thu, 8am–5pm
Fri. Film club, library & archives: ring for
details. 7 0 = ∑ sfi.se/filmhuset
The production of quality Swedish
films is supported by the
Swedish Film Institute. The insti-
tute also acts as guardian of the
country’s cinematic heritage and
promotes Swedish films both at
home and abroad. From 1971, all
its activities were brought under
one roof in Filmhuset, a Modernist
Kaknästornet, with the Sjöhistoriska, Tekniska and Etnografiska museums in the foreground structure by Peter Celsing.
Cinema screenings are held six
satellite between European its military role. In the early days a week at the internation-
cities. Five dishes to the left 1900s the area was used for ally acclaimed Cinematheque.
of the tower – the largest of May Day processions, and It showcases movies from all
which has a diameter of 13 m car races were staged here over the world, ranging from
(43 ft) – relay signals to and around 1920. silent picture shows with live
from satellites. The main hall The fortress of Kungliga music to more contemporary
containing the transmitters and Borgen is a relic of the military films. Filmhuset also houses
receivers has been blasted out training era, and it was from Sweden’s largest public library
of the rock below the dishes. here that Karl XIV Johan used to specialising in all things film.
The observation points on watch his troops manoeuvring. There is also a popular weekday-
levels 30 and 31 provide a He rode from here to Rosendal lunch restaurant and a café-bar.
spectacular view of the city, Palace on Djurgården (see p98)
and the restaurant on the via a pontoon bridge near the
28th floor has panoramic present-day National Maritime
windows. It is reached by Museum. The fortress was badly
two lifts, travelling at 18 km/h damaged by fire in October
(11 mph). The restaurant also 1977, but it has since been
runs a busy tourist information rebuilt to its original
office at the entrance level, appearance. A restaurant is
selling souven irs and maps. open during the summer.
Decorative features include a Something is always going
wall relief by Walter Bengtsson, on in Gärdet. It is the starting
who was inspired by the tower’s point for major fun runs and
daunting technology. the venue for kite-flying
festivals, and is used by the
city’s balloonists. It is also a
w Ladugårdsgärde favourite place to exercise Filmhuset, home of the Film Institute and
Map 6 C1. @ 1, 69, 76. horses and dogs. Cinematheque
As early as the 15th century Ingmar Bergman
there was a royal farm on the
site where the Nobel Park now The playwright and producer Ingmar Bergman was born in Uppsala
stands. After 250 years it had in 1918. His long series of masterly films made him world-famous,
outlived its usefulness and for a but he started his career in the theatre.
few centuries it was used as a From 1960–6 he was Managing Director
training area for the Stockholm of Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern (the Royal
garrison. Between Kungliga Dramatic Theatre), where he remained a
Borgen (Royal Fortress) and guest producer. He created more than
Hakberget are the remains 100 theatrical productions. His most
of Karl XI’s fort (dating from acclaimed are Smiles of a Summer Night
1672), which was largely (1955), The Seventh Seal (1957) and his
rebuilt in time for the World final film Fanny and Alexander (1982),
Equestrian Championships, which won him four Oscars. He will also
held here in 1990. During the be remembered for his problematic
20th century what became Ingmar Bergman (1918–2007) private life, which his films often depicted.
known simply as Gärdet lost




110-111_EW_Stockholm.indd 111 18/11/15 2:51 pm

112  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD














Tessinparken, surrounded by Functionalist-style housing dating from the late 1930s
r Tessinparken A granite statue of a woman with building provided a backdrop
& Nedre Gärdet a suitcase, Housewife’s Holiday, to the newly extended street.
stands in the part of Tessin Park The regiment moved out
Map 3 F2.  Karlaplan, Gärdet. adjoining Valhallavägen. It was in 1949 to make way first for
@ 1, 4, 72.
made by Olof Thorwald Ohlsson Swedish Radio and later for the
in the 1970s. At the other end Military Academy, in whose
Three generations of the Tessin of the park is a colourful present gym Swedish TV was
family of architects (see p38) concrete statue, The Egg, born. A plaque reads: “From
have given their name to this by Egon Möller-Nielsen. this building the first regular
park opened at Lower Gärdet in television programme was
1931. Tessinparken runs from t Försvars­ transmitted on 24 October 1954.”
north to south and is attractively högskolan
designed with lawns, play areas,
paths and ponds. The adjoining Valhallavägen 117. Map 3 E2. @ 4, 62, y Stadion
houses, built between 1932 and 72.  Stadion. Closed to the public. Lidingövägen 1–3. Map 3 E2.
1937, have their own gardens Tel 08-508 283 51.  Stadion.
and blend in such a way that Two decorative cannons, an @ 4, 55, 72, 73. Open 15 Apr–15 Oct.
they give the impression of aircraft propeller and an & during events. 7 0 -
being part of the park itself. 18th-century anchor guard the
The earliest houses, nearest entrance to Försvarshögskolan A new main arena was built for
to Valhalla vägen, still show (the Military Academy). The the 1912 Olympic Games in
signs of 1920s Neo-Classicism, building has been sympathe- Stockholm. The architect of
although Gärdet’s real hallmark tically renovated and appears to Stadion, Torben Grut (1871–1945),
is Functionalism (see p39). The be lower than it really is, because followed the National Romantic
lower white houses along the adjoining Valhalla vägen was influences of the day. His design
Askrikegatan are Functionalist built at a higher level. was based on his own interpre-
in style and noticeably different It was originally the base for tation of the commission to
from other buildings in Gärdet. the Svea Artillery Regiment build a stadium “using modern
They mark the northern and is one of many notable construction methods adapted
boundary of the park. Some military buildings designed from traditional medieval brick-
60 different architects were by the architect Ernst Jacobsson. building techniques”. It is no
involved in designing the After Nybrogatan was blasted coincidence that the arena, which
Gärdet development, including out through the Tyskbagar- is the world’s oldest Olympic
Sture Frölén. bergen hill, the regimental stadium still in use, is often
known as the “Stadium Fortress”.
In addition to the 1912
Olympics, the stadium has also
been the venue for ice hockey
and bandy (a type of hockey)
championships, the European
Athletics Championships in
1958, and the World Equestrian
Championships in 1990. The
stadium is renowned for
athletics events, and stages
an international athletics gala
every summer.
Stadion is listed as a heritage
building, and its twin towers
are a familiar landmark. The
The restored façade of Försvarshögskolan (Military Academy) on Valhallavägen complex is richly decorated.




112-113_EW_Stockholm.indd 112 19/09/17 12:01 pm

ÖSTERM ALM & GÄRDE T  113


The clock tower has i Engelbrektskyrkan
two figures by Carl & Lärkstaden
Fagerberg, Ask
and Embla, the Östermalmsgatan 20. Map 3 D2.
counterparts of Adam  Tekniska högskolan. @ 1.
and Eve in Nordic Engelbrektskyrkan. Tel 08-406 98 00.
Open 11am–3pm Tue–Sun. 5 11am
mytho logy. There are Sun, 11:30am Thu. 7 =
also busts of Victor
Balck, the man behind One of Sweden’s leading
the 1912 Olympics; Jugendstil architects, Lars Israel
P H Ling, the father of Wahlman, designed the
Swedish gymnastics; Engelbrekt Church as a result
and Edwin Wide, of winning an architectural
the “flying teacher”, Bruno Liljefors’s statue Play outside Stadion competition in 1906. The church
who was a leading was opened on 25 January 1914
opponent of the Finnish master- Haninge and Kista, and outside in the presence of King Gustaf V.
athlete Paavo Nurmi in long- Stockholm in Södertälje, Gävle Engelbrektskyrkan gives the
distance races during the 1920s. and Visby. appearance of thrusting out
Four notable sculptures were The main building on from the rocks, and it dominates
added in the 1930s. The artist and Valhallavägen was designed by the surrounding area with its
gymnast Bruno Liljefors (best Erik Lallerstedt, and its opening, slender brick tower. In the
known for his wildlife paintings) in October 1917 was a chancel, the monumental
created Play at the main entrance, milestone in Sweden’s paintings are by Olle Hjortzberg
Carl Eldh made The Runners, and technological development. (1872–1959). The sculptor
Carl Fagerberg provided Relay The architect commissioned Tore Strindberg (1882–1968)
Runners and The Shot-Putter. several contemporary artists to was commissio ned for the
decorate the austere technical stucco reliefs both in the
u Tekniska environment, so it has become chancel and above the main
entrance. Filip Månsson
something of an artistic treasure
Högskolan trove. The sculptors and painters executed the frescoes in the
whose works adorn the west portico and elsewhere.
Valhallavägen 79. Map 3 D1.
 Tekniska högskolan. @ 4, 72, 73. buildings included Einar The nave is the highest in
Forseth, Olle Hjortzberg, Georg Scandinavia, and the arches
The renowned higher educa tion Pauli, Ivar Johnsson, Axel inside the church are support ed
establishment, Tekniska Törneman, Hilding Linnqvist by eight granite pillars.
Högskolan, accounts for one- and Carl Milles. The latter artist Engelbrektskyrkan is located
third of Sweden’s technical was also responsible for the in Lärkstaden, a quarter that was
research and engineering fountain sculpture, The Industrial developed around 1910 and is
education at university level. Monument, which rests on a characterized by dark red
It has 15,000 students, 1,000 marble base in the courtyard façades and tiled roofs that blend
active research students and a facing Valhallavägen. in well with the church. The area
staff of 2,500. It was founded in Early in the 20th century the has winding streets and natural
1827, and since 1917 its campus main building underwent a differences in level – inspired
has been housed in heritage painstaking renovation. The partly by Austrian patterns.
buildings on Valhallavägen, surrounding park was also
as well as in the suburbs of restored to its original state.
Arena for Records
No other athletics arena can compete with Stockholm’s Stadion
when it comes to world records. The 1912 Olympics gave the
statistics a flying start with 11 of them. The
gold medallist Ted Meredith’s time of 1
min 51.9 sec in the 800-m event can be
compared with Wilson Kipketer’s 1997
time of 1 min 41.73 sec over the same
distance – the last world record set at
Stadion. It has recorded a total of 83 world
records. London is second with 68, and
Los Angeles is third with 66. The top
Swed ish runner of the 1940s, Gunder
Hägg, set seven world records and the
Running track at Stadion Finn, Paavo Nurmi, had six.
Engelbrektskyrkan, dominating the
surrounding area of Lärkstaden




112-113_EW_Stockholm.indd 113 19/09/17 12:01 pm

114  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

Kungsholmen

Once best known for its handicrafts and small industries,
Kungsholmen changed in the late 19th century with the
emergence of new apartment blocks and institutional buildings.
By the early 1900s the area had a different status, exemplified
by Ragnar Östberg’s Stadshuset (City Hall) – Stockholm’s most
notable architectural project of the 20th century – and Carl
Westman’s majestic Rådhuset (Law Court). These were followed
by the elegant waterfront houses along Norr Mälarstrand. The
area has a high concentration of government buildings, but it
also offers many venues for entertainment and nightlife.
Stately buildings on Norr Mälarstrand line
the Riddarfjärden waterfront
Sights at a Glance Key 3 Norr Mälarstrand
1 Stadshuset Central Stockholm
(see pp116–17) Motorway Map 1 C3.  Rådhuset,
2 Rådhuset Major road Fridhemsplan. @ 40, 52.
3 Norr Mälarstrand Minor road When industries including
4 Rålambshovsparken textiles and dyeing left Norr
5 Västerbron Mälarstrand in the early 20th
6 Marieberg century, work began on
attractive location along the bay
Fridhemsplan S:T ERIKSGATAN FLEMINGGATAN SCHEELEGATAN exploiting Kungsholmen’s
of Riddarfjärden. Gradually an
DROTTNINGHOL MSVÄGEN
exclusive residential area
Stockholm C
ESSINGELE DEN E4 Thorildsplan NORR MÄLARSTRAND Rådhuset emerged. During World War II a
sculpture park was devel oped
HANTVERKAR GATAN
along the waterfront, where the
0 metres 1000 excursion boats and vintage
coasters are moored today.
0 yards 1000 Willow, poplar, alder and birch
trees thrive along the shoreline.
A pavilion with a summer café
1 Stadshuset his design, Westman drew inspi­ stands on pillars above the
ration from the Vasa Renaissance water. It was designed by Erik
See pp116–17.
of the 16th century and was Glemme, assistant to the city’s
probably influenced by Vadstena master gardener Holger Blom
2 Rådhuset Castle in southern Sweden. (b. 1906).
Rådhuset, with its prominent The architect of Stadshuset,
Scheelegatan 7. Map 2 A5.
 Rådhuset. @ 40, 52. tower, is one of the best exam­ Ragnar Östberg, designed Norr
ples of the National Romantic Mälarstrand 76. Cyrillus
In the early 20th century, style, but its solid scale also Johansson, Sven Wallander and
the intention was to build a shows Jugendstil influences. J Norberg were the architects
combined city hall and law The sculptors Christian Eriksson of Nos. 26, 28 and 30, where the
court, but the plans changed and the brothers Aron and figures on the gables above the
when two separate architectural Gustaf Sandberg were steps were created by the metal
competitions were launched. The responsible for the decoration, craftsman Ragnar Myrsmeden.
winning entry for which also includes There is much to see in the
Rådhuset (the law paintings by Olle small side streets, including the
court), was a design by Hjortzberg and scene­ façades of No. 5 Jacob Westins
Carl Westman (1866– paintings by Filip Gata (architect Harald Wadsjö)
1936), who became a Månsson and his and No. 9 Skillinggränd. The
leading exponent of workshop. Beside the original service­flat building at
the National Romantic staircase on the fifth No. 6 John Erikssongatan was
School along with floor is a copy of de signed by Sven Markelius, who
Ragnar Östberg (1866– Kopparmatte, the pillory was influenced by the ministe­
1945), architect of that once stood on rial couple Gunnar and Alva
Stadshuset. Building Stortorget in Gamla Myrdal. It is the first residential
began in 1911, and Stan. The original pillory building in the Functionalist
Rådhuset was opened Rådhuset, is at Stockholms Stads­ style typical of the 1930s to be
in December 1915. In exterior detail museum (see p129). listed as a heritage site.
For map symbols see back flap
114-115_EW_Stockholm.indd 114 19/09/17 12:01 pm

KUNGSHOLMEN  115


4 Rålambshovs­ of Lake Mälaren. German
parken experts dominated the
architectural competition
Map 1 B3.  Fridhemsplan. @ 1, 4, launched in 1930, but their
40, 56, 57, 62, 74. S plans were imple mented by
Swedish architects and
Rålambshovparken was created engineers, and the bridge
in 1935, when the Västerbron was was completed in 1935.
built. It adjoins other green areas, The attractive design blends
including Smedsudden and well with the landscape. The
Marieberg and Fredhäll parks. bridge is built in two spans of The Orb (1970) by Elli Hemberg in front
These open spaces attract 168 m (551 ft) and 204 m (669 ft) of Riksarkivet
joggers and sun-bathers. In with a vertical clearance of 26 m
summer it is possible to swim (85 ft). It is used by an average copper sculpture, Freedom our
from the beach at Smedsudden of 12,000 vehicles daily. A walk Watchword, made in 1951.
or the cliffs at Fredhäll. to the centre of Västerbron is The offices of Svenska
When the city celebrated its rewarded with a magnificent Dagbladet are not as richly
700th anniversary in 1953, an view of central Stockholm. decorated as their neighbours’,
amphitheatre was opened in but they are no less interesting
Rålambshovsparken, and a architecturally. The building was
paddling pool and playgrounds 6 Marieberg inspired by Pirelli’s high-rise
were added. The park has been Map 1 A3.  Thorildsplan. @ 1, 49, offices in Milan and designed by
enhanced with Elli Hemberg’s 56, 62. Riksarkivet Tel 010 476 71 00. Tengbom Architects in 1960–2.
sculpture The Butterfly, Eric The third interesting build ing
Grate’s Monument to an Axeman, The area at the northern end in Marieberg is Riksarkivet, the
Judgement by Egon Möller- of Västerbron, Marieberg, was state archive. It was built in 1968
Nielsen and Lars Erik Falk’s once known for its porcelain by architects Åke Ahlström and
Colour Tower. factory and military installations. Kjell Åström. Riksarkivet is one of
But since the early 1960s it Sweden’s oldest public bodies,
has become the city’s main dating from the Middle Ages. At
newspaper district and the the entrance is Elli Hemberg’s
home of three of the four iron sculpture, The Orb. The
Stockholm dailies. main hall, which has 56 seats for
The architect Paul Hedqvist’s researchers and 18 individual
98.6-m (323-ft) high building for study rooms, is dominated by
Dagens Nyheter and Expressen is Lennart Rodhe’s tapestry,
one of the city’s landmarks. Symbol in the Archive, created by
The neon sign that tops the the Friends of Handicrafts. In an
building at Gjörwellsgatan 30 adjoining room the public has
Rålambshovsparken on the north side was designed by P O Ultvedt, access to archive documents,
of Västerbron who also created the relief at microfilm and microfiche.
the entrance. Works of art Among the archives is one
5 Västerbron include Lennart Rodhe’s walls of the world’s largest books –
made from glazed stoneware, the accounts for the province
Map 1 B4. @ 4, 40, 74.
Day and Night, and Arne Jones’ of Östergötland dating from
As Stockholm expanded and car sculpture Nova. Some older 1813. It has 12,390 pages,
use increased in the 1920s, it works of art were brought from weighs 42 kg (93 lb) and is
became necessary to build an the papers’ original building in 1.13 m (3 ft 8 inches) wide.
additional bridge between the the central Klara district, Guided tours of Riksarkivet
northern and southern shores including Stig Blomberg’s can be arranged.












Meaning “The Western Bridge”, Västerbron opened in 1935 to link Kungsholmen with Södermalm across Lake Mälaren




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116  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

1 Stadshuset

Probably Sweden’s biggest architectural project
of the 20th century, the City Hall was completed
in 1923 and has become a symbol of Stockholm.
It was designed by Ragnar Östberg (1866–1945),
the leading architect of the Swedish National
Romantic style, and displays influences of both
the Nordic Gothic and Northern Italian schools.
Several leading Swedish artists contributed to the
rich interior design. The building contains the . The Golden Hall
Council Chamber and 250 offices for admin­ The Byzantine-inspired wall mosaics by
istrative staff. The annual Nobel Prize festivities Einar Forseth (1892–1988) have 19 million
fragments of gold leaf. The theme of the
take place in the Blue Hall and the Golden Hall. northern wall is Queen of Lake Mälaren.


































KEY
1 The Blue Hall contains the
banqueting room, made from hand-
shaped dark bricks. The name comes
from the original plan to use
polished blue-painted bricks.
2 Norra Trapptornet is a tower
crowned by a sun.
3 Courtyard
. The Prince’s Gallery
4 Marriage room A fresco, The City on the
5 Engelbrekt the Freedom Water, in the Prince’s Gallery,
Fighter by Christian Eriksson was painted by Prince
(1858–1935). Eugen (see p99), who
donated it to the City Hall.




116-117_EW_Stockholm.indd 116 19/09/17 12:01 pm
LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
“UK” LAYER
Starsight template
Starsight & Street by Street “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
template V2 (OpenType)
Date 28th August 2012
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm

KUNGSHOLMEN  117


Three Crowns
Sweden’s heraldic VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
symbol, Tre Kronor, Practical Information
dating from
the 14th century, Hantverkargatan 1.
Map 2 B5.
tops the 106-m Tel 08-508 290 58.
(348-ft) tower.
∑ stockholm.se/cityhall
Open for guided tours.
Closed 1 Jan & 9, 10, 24, 25,
26 Dec. 8 English. 6 Jun–
23 Aug: 10am–3pm (every hour).
& 7 Tower: May & Sep: 9am–
4pm daily; June–Aug: 9am–5pm
daily. Visits every 40 minutes.
& J
Transport
 Rådhuset. @ 3, 62
to Stadshuset.














The Council Chamber
Stockholm’s 101 councillors meet
in this magnificent chamber,
which contains furnishings
designed by Carl Malmsten.





















The Dance
The steps leading to Riddarfjärden
are flanked by two statues by
Carl Eldh (see pp122–3). Dansen is
the figure of a woman; Sången
(The Song) is that of a man.




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118  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

Vasastan

Building started in Vasastan, the most northerly part of
Norrmalm, in the 18th century. Today it is both a residential
area, with houses built around 1900 for manu al workers and
craftsmen, and a lively part of the city with a wide choice of bars
and restaurants. The area also includes some of Stockholm’s
most agreeable green open spaces, including Vasaparken and
Vanadis-lunden. Stadsbiblioteket, the city library, is one of
Stockholm’s most distinctive buildings, and there are several
architecturally outstanding churches.
Sights at a Glance
Key
1 Schefflelerska Palatset The old observatory (1748–53) at the top
2 Observatoriemuseet Central Stockholm
3 Handelshögskolan Motorway of the Observatory hill
4 Stadsbiblioteket Major road 2 Observatorie-
5 Gustav Vasa Kyrka
6 Judiska museet Minor road museet
7 Vasaparken
8 Rörstrandsgatan Drottninggatan 120. Map 2 B2.
9 Karlbergs Slott  Odenplan/Rådmansgatan. @ 2, 4,
NORRA STATIONSGATAN Odenplan 6pm Sat & Sun); 1 Oct–6 Apr: 11am–
0 Röda Bergen E4 E20 40, 42, 65, 72. Open Café Himlavalvet:
q Vanadislunden SVEAVÄGEN 7 Apr–30 Sep: 11am–5pm daily (to
S:T ERIKSGATAN
5pm Sat & Sun. Closed to the public.
KARLBERGSVÄGEN
ODENGATAN & 7 = ∑ observatoriet.kva.se
A number of institutions
TORSGATAN
connected with science and
R Ö R S T RANDSGATAN
education can be found on and
S:t Eriksplan DALAGATAN
0 metres 1000 around the hill of Brunkeberg.
Karlberg
0 yards 1000 The oldest is the former
observatory designed by Carl
Hårleman for the Royal Swedish
1 Schefflelerska an architect. On show in Academy of Sciences and
Palatset the palace is Stockholm opened in 1753. In 1931 its
University’s collection of 370 astronomical research was
Drottninggatan 116. Map 2 B3. paintings from the 16th to the moved to Saltsjöbaden in
 Rådmansgatan. @ 52. 19th century, and the Hellner the Stockholm archipelago.
col lection of 700 pieces made The building has since become
Until about 1900 the most at the Orrefors glassworks. Observatoriemuseet (the
northerly section of Pehr Hilleström’s painting With Observatory Museum).
Drottninggatan formed the Fortune Teller is included The grove, which surrounds
the main road into the in the collection, but the the old observatory, began to
city from the north. Here is emphasis is on foreign works take shape in the 18th century.
Schefflelerska Palatset (the such as The Assault, attributed It is an idyllic enclosed area,
“haunted palace”), built in to Pieter Bruegel the Elder which was first opened to the
the grand style popular (1567), and Danae Banquet public in the 20th century.
during Sweden’s time and Cleopatra’s Banquet On top of Brunkeberg is Sigrid
as a great power, by Tiepolo. The property Fridman’s statue The Centaur.
thus dating it to was acquired in 1925 A park stretches down to
around 1700. by the College Sveavägen, where a large pond
It has been of Higher is fed by water from a stream
suggested that Education, running down the hillside.
it was designed later Stockholm The statue Dancing Youth is by
by Tessin the Elder, University, which Ivar Johnsson. At the southern
but it is more likely handed it over entrance of the park is Nils
that it was by his to the State in Möllerberg’s sculpture Youth.
step son, Abraham 1960. Legend has Although the observatory
Winantz, who was it that the is currently closed to the
ennobled in 1693 house has public, the on-site restaurant,
for his services as Orrefors bowl by Simon Gate, 1925 a ghost. Café Himlavalvet, is still open.
For map symbols see back flap
118-119_EW_Stockholm.indd 118 18/11/15 2:51 pm

V ASAST AN  119


3 Handels-
högskolan
Sveavägen 65. Map 2 C2. Tel 08-736
90 00.  Råd mansgatan. @ 59.
When the architect Ivar Tengbom
(1878–1968) designed Handel-
shögskolan, Stockholm School
of Economics (SSE), in the early
1920s he was inspired mainly
by the Renaissance and Neo-
Classical styles. Tengbom himself
took charge of the construction, The Stadsbiblioteket, Stockholm’s main library
and the building was officially
opened in 1926 in the presence 4 Stadsbiblioteket and drinking fountains are by
of King Gustav V. The façade Sveavägen 73. Map 2 B2. Tel 08-508 Nils Sjögren. Hilding Linnqvist
has stone reliefs and a gilded 310 60.  Rådmans gatan. @ 4, 42, was responsible for the giant-
Mercury – the god of commerce – 46, 52, 53, 72. Open mid-Jun–mid- sized tapestry, and also for four
all by Ansgar Almquist, who also Aug: 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, noon–4pm mural paintings using ancient
contributed a stucco relief with Sat; mid-Aug–mid-Jun: 9am–9pm fresco techniques.
a lion gate based on the one in Mon–Thu, 9am–7pm Fri, noon–4pm The library lends more than a
ancient Mycenae in Greece. Sat & Sun. 7 - million books every year.
SSE is one of the leading busi-
ness schools in Northern Europe. Gunnar Asplund’s master work, 5 Gustav Vasa
For more than a century, the Stadsbiblioteket (City Library), is
school has educated men and one of the capital’s most architec- Kyrka
women for leading positions in turally important buildings (see Odenplan. Map 2 B2. Tel 08-508 886
the business and public sectors. pp38–9). Asplund, the champion 00.  Odenplan. @ 4, 40, 42, 46, 53,
of the Functionalist style 69, 72. Open 11am–6pm Mon–Thu,
prevalent in the 1930s, designed 10am–6pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun;
a library dominated by the Jun–Aug: 11am–6pm daily. 5 noon
ideals of Nordic Classicism. Mon & Fri, 8:30am Wed, 6pm Thu, 11am
It was opened in 1928. Sun, in Swedish. 7 ∑ gustafvasa.nu
Internally, the furnishings and
many of the lightfittings were Sweden’s largest Baroque sculp-
designed by Asplund himself. ture forms the altar in Gustav
In the entrance hall are Ivar Vasa Kyrka, which was opened
Johnsson’s stucco reliefs with in 1906. The piece, by the court
themes from Homer’s Iliad. sculptor Burchardt Precht
The sparkling mural painting (1651–1738), was made for
in the children’s section, John Uppsala Cathedral, from where
Blund, is by Nils Dardel, and it was removed in the late
the depiction of the stars in 19th century. It was bought by
Entrance of Handelshögskolan, the heavens by Ulf Munthe. The the Gustav Vasa parish congre-
the Stockholm School of Economics door lintels, fine door handles gation, whose church immedi-
ately gained a notable attraction.
The architect Agi Lindegren
Gunnar Asplund
designed the central part of the
Gunnar Asplund (1885–1940) was the dominant figure among church in Italian Neo-Baroque
Swedish architects between the two world wars. His first major style with a 60-m (197-ft) high
commission was the chapel at the Skogskyrkogården Cemetery, dome. Lindegren himself
designed in National Romantic style. designed the marble pulpit and
His last work was Heliga Korsets the font was created by Sigrid
Kapell, the cemetery’s crematorium Blomberg. The baptismal chapel
(1935–40). Regarded as a master- there is a 15th-century painting
piece in the Functionalist style, by an unknown Dutch artist.
it has earned a place on the The paintings on the dome
UNESCO World Heritage list are by Vicke Andrén, who also
(see p135). Asplund also designed
Stadsbiblioteket (City Library, 1920– portrayed the four evangelists
28). He pioneered the Functionalist in the transepts. The organ
Stockholm Exhibition, by Gunnar style as chief architect for the was built with the help of the
Asplund, 1930 Stockholm Exhibition in 1930. composer Olle Olsson, the
church organist for 50 years.



118-119_EW_Stockholm.indd 119 18/11/15 2:51 pm

120  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD


believed to be more to its current home at Lidköping
than 200 years old. in south-west Sweden.
During a major face lift Rörstrandsgatan was the site
in the 1940s, the of one of the city’s first Chinese
appearance of the restaurants, and today the many
sec tion along Torsgatan outdoor cafés give the street a
was changed. Three colourful atmo sphere during
terraced gardens were summer. The area around
added with granite Rörstrandsgatan and
and concrete walls and Odengatan has several nice
An eight-stemmed chanukiah (candlestick) in the reliefs. Gottfrid Larsson’s shops, bars and restaurants.
collection of Judiska museet bronze statue The
Workman has stood
6 Judiska museet in this part of the park since 9 Karlbergs Slott
1917. On the opposite side
Hälsingegatan 2. Map 2 A2. Tel 08-557 of the park is Romeo and Juliet, Map 1 B1. Tel 08-734 20 00.
735 60.  Odenplan. @ 4, 72. @ 42, 72 to the station of Karlberg,
Open noon–4pm Mon–Fri & Sun. a small granite sculpture by then 15 min walk. 8 groups only,
8 in English by appointment. & 7 Olof Thorwald Ohlsson. by appointment.
= - ∑ judiska-museet.se
Admiral Karl Karlsson
In 1774 Aaron Isaac became the Gyllenhielm started to build
first Jewish immigrant to settle Karlbergs Slott in the 1630s,
in Stockholm and practise his during the Thirty Years’ War.
religion. Half of Sweden’s Jewish From 1670 the palace was
population of around 18,000 extended and rebuilt by
live in the Stockholm area. Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie,
Judiska museet depicts the with Jean de la Vallée as his
history of the Swedish Jews architect. When Karlberg
from Isaac’s time up to the be came royal property in 1688,
present day. It focuses on Vasaparken, a green lung in the built-up it was one of Sweden’s most
Judaism as a religion, its area of Vasastan majestic palaces. It was where
integration into Swedish society the “hero king”, Karl XII (1682–
and also the Holocaust. 1718), grew up, and it was here
A comprehensive collection 8 Rörstrandsgatan that he lay in state after his
of pictures and other items Map 1 C1.  S:t Eriksplan. @ 3, 4, 42, death at the Battle of
provide an insight into Jewish 57, 72. Fredrikshald (see p21).
life in Sweden with its important In 1792 the architect C C
traditions and customs. The This street takes its name from Gjörwell converted the proper ty
beautiful Torah (the five books the no-longer-existing into the Royal War Academy,
of Moses) and the col lection Rörstrand palace, built in the which later became the Karl-
of eight-stemmed chanukiot early 1630s. In the summer of berg Military School, and since
(candlesticks) are just some 1726 the manufacture of Delft- 1999 it has been one of the
of the museum’s remarkable style porcelain started in the country’s military academies.
spiritual artifacts. building. Two hundred years Cadet balls at Karlberg are
later the now-famous Rörstrand unforgettable experiences, not
porcelain factory was moved to least because of the magnifi-
7 Vasaparken the Gothen burg area and then cent setting. The interior
Map 2 A3.  S:t Eriksplan. @
3, 4, 72.
Vasaparken dates from the early
20th century. It was typical of
parks of its time with its
emphasis on sport exemplified
by the inclusion of a spacious
grass sports field. During World
War I the field was used for
growing potatoes. A playground
area was added in 1911.
It is a leafy and pleasant park.
With few exceptions the trees
were planted when the park
was opened, but a lime tree in
the shape of a candelabra is Karlbergs Slott, a palace dating from the 1630s – now one of Sweden’s military academies




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V ASAST AN  121






















The striking Stefanskapellet, designed by Carl Möller, in Vanadislunden
decorations include Carl Carove’s oases of Hedemora and a landfill site. A chapel,
magnificent stuccowork, which Sätertäppan, comes Stefanskapellet, at the southern
can be seen in the grand hall. Rödabergsgatan, an avenue of end of the park, was opened in
The palace church has been horse chestnut trees typical of 1904. It was designed by Carl
renovated, but the 17th-century the area. A Modernist sculpture Möller, who was the architect
lamps are original. De la Gardie’s in steel has sneaked in here – responsible for the Johannes
“Rarities Room” is now the Björn Selder’s 1 1/2 Spheres Kyrka. During a renovation in
sacristy but once housed his (1979). In the background is a 1925–6 the chapel acquired its
collection of valuables. playground with Bo Englund’s painted altar by Einar Forseth
sculpture Genesis (1984). depicting the Passion.
It took almost a half-century
0 Röda Bergen to complete Vanadislunden.
q Vanadislunden
Map 2 A2.  S:t Eriksplan. @ 3, 42, The Vanadisbadet, an outdoor
57, 69. Map 2 B1. @ 2, 40, 52. Vanadis badet swimming pool, was opened
Tel 08-30 23 00. Open mid-May–Sep: in 1938. Above the pool the
Turning off from Sveavägen into 10am–7pm daily. & 7 0 - sculpture Girl in the Evening Sun
Vanadisvägen, one soon ∑ vanadisbadet.nu by Anders Jönsson looks out
reaches Matteus Kyrka, which over Vasastaden. This is the
dates from 1902–3. This church Many places in Vasastan are highest part of Vanadislunden,
was designed by Erik Lallerstedt, named Vanadis, which derives and the streets around here
who 20 years later undertook from Norse mythology. It was have attractive black-and-
its renovation. The figure of not until the late 19th century white paving stones.
St Matthew at the entrance, that the area around the At one time there were
as well as the reredos figures, northern end of Sveavägen numerous suburban mansions
are the work of Ivar Johnsson. started to be developed. In in the area. One of them,
The mural paintings are by the 1880s a park was laid out Cederdals Malmgård, can still
the artist Olle Hjortzberg. on the nearby hillside with be seen towards the northern
The Röda Bergen (“Red cultivated areas created from end of the park.
Mountains”) district starts at
Vanadisplan with a sculpture
made from reinforced plastic –
Transformation, by Chris Gibson
(1984). The area is a typical
1920s garden city
where, as in Lärk staden
(see p113), the architects
abandoned the normal
rigid road layout and
allowed the street plan
to follow the terrain.
After the rose gardens
of Rödabergsbrinken,
flanked by the parkland Houses in Röda Bergen built in typical warm colours




120-121_EW_Stockholm.indd 121 19/09/17 11:53 am

122  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

Norrtull & Ekoparken

Large parts of the Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) are
spread around the Brunnsviken inlet, only a few kilometres
north of the city centre. The English-style park, Hagaparken,
with its 18th-century buildings, extolled by the poet Carl
Bellman (see p98), is located in this oasis. To the north lies the
majestic Baroque Ulriksdals Slott. In stark contrast, to the south,
visitors come abruptly to the inner city’s built-up area at the old
Norrtull gateway. The area has several museums, including
Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet, Sweden’s largest museum building.

Key
Part of Royal National
City Park (Ekoparken)
Motorway
Major road The Wenner-Gren Center’s main building,
UPPSALAVÄGEN E4
BERGSHAMRAV E1 8 Minor road called Pylonen
ENKÖPINGSVÄGEN E18 2 Bellevueparken
South of Brunnsviken lake,
Ekoparken 11346. @ 2, 40, 53.
Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum
B
0 kilometres 1
Lögbodavägen 10, Bellevueparken.
0 miles 0.5 r u n n Tel 08-612 65 60. Open May–Aug:
noon–4pm Tue–Sun; Sep–Oct:
s v
Solan ROSLAGSVÄGEN
11am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 1:30pm
i k
RÅSUNDAVÄGEN e n Univer- in English. & 7 ^ = - J
sitetet
FRÖSUNDALEDEN
Bellevue Park is part of the
Royal National City Park
Sights at a Glance (Ekoparken). Built by architect
1 Wenner-Gren Center Fredrik Magnus Piper, who
2 Bellevueparken also planned Haga Park (see
3 Haga Parkmuseum pp124–5), Bellevue offers
4 Hagaparken (see pp124–5) VALHALLAV winding paths, groves, tree-
5 Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet lined avenues and open green
6 Bergianska trädgården SVEAVÄGEN areas. The park also boasts
7 Ulriksdals Slott S:T ERIKSG 200-year-old lime trees and
rare medicinal plants. The name
“Bellevue”, French for “beautiful
1 Wenner-Gren whose 24-storey headquarters, view”, was given to the park
Center Pylonen, stands like an excla- by Baron Carl Sparre who
mation mark at the northern purchased a villa here on
Sveavägen 166. Map 2 B1. @ 2, 40, end of Sveavägen. Bellevue Hill in 1782. The villa
52, 69. It was opened in 1962, but was built in 1757 by court
Wenner-Gren lived only long painter John Pasch and today
The industrialist Axel Wenner- enough after that to see the is used as a conference centre.
Gren (1881–1961) had an topping-out ceremony in 1961. On Bellevue Hill is the
almost religious faith in the In the semi-circular Helicon Lögbodavägen viewpoint.
potential of science. “Let us use building are 155 apartments for The site is not easy to locate,
science to solve mankind’s the use, at subsidized rents, of but those who do find it are
problems” is an expression foreign scientists undertaking richly rewarded. The point
attributed to him. During the long-term research in Sweden. looks out over the Brunnsviken
1920s he launched products The Wenner-Gren Founda tion inlet and is close to the
including vacuum clean ers and was set up to encourage monument The Young
refrigerators through his scientific ex changes between Strindberg in the Archipelago
company, Electrolux, which he Sweden and other countries. by Carl Eldh (1873–1954).
founded in 1919. His name is About 250 scientists take part The sculptor’s studio, now
preserved in three foundations every year, and interna tional preserved as the Carl Eldhs
and in the Wenner-Gren Center, symposiums are arranged. Ateljémuseum, is only a few
For map symbols see back flap
122-123_EW_Stockholm.indd 122 20/09/17 11:21 am

NORR TULL & EK OP ARKEN  123


metres from Lögbodavägen.
The sheltering environment
and panoramic view of
Brunnsviken and Haga were
important factors in Eldh’s
decision to locate his studio
here. The sculptor was able
to benefit from the northern
light, and the garden
belonging to the studio
made it possible for Eldh to
work in the open air. Today,
the area exudes calm, and it
is easy to see why the artist
chose to settle here.
In his time Carl Eldh was
one of Sweden’s most prolific
sculptors. Like his colleague
Carl Milles, he lived in Paris
for several years and was
in fluenced by Rodin’s Impres­
sionist style. Later his works
were characterized by a more Carl Eldh’s Ateljémuseum containing plaster cast originals of his works
robust Realism. Eldh’s
sculptures can be seen at (see pp112–13). Also here are 3 Haga
30 public sites in Stockholm. drawings, tools and other Parkmuseum
The plaster casts of these personal belongings of the
works are on show in the artist. The unusual wooden Mellersta Koppartältet, Hagaparken.
studio. Examples include building that housed the Tel 08­27 42 52.  Odenplan then
The Branting Monument at artist’s studio was built in bus. @ 515. Open Oct–May:
10am–3pm Fri & Sun, May–Sep:
Norra Bantorget, the statue 1919 and was designed by 11am–5pm daily. -
of Strindberg in Tegnérparken, the City Hall’s architect, ∑ hagaparkmuseum.se
and The Runners at Stadion Ragnar Östberg.
This museum is housed in the
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) largest of the three copper­clad
“tents” situated in the northwest
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) was established by the corner of Hagaparken. It is
Swedish Parliament in 1995. This has enabled the capital to safeguard dedicated to the history of the
the ecology of its “green lung”, a 27­sq­km (10.5­sq­mile) area for park and includes exhibits on
recreation and outdoor activities in an urban setting. In fact, the park the plans for its original design,
covers an area that is as large as Stockholm’s inner­city. The National its unusual collection of
City Park includes central districts such as Skeppsholmen and the buildings, and the people
southern part of Djurgården, and continues northwest to northern associated with them, from the
Djurgården, Hagaparken, Brunnsviken and Ulriksdal. Much of the park time of Gustav III to the present.
was a royal hunting ground as early as the 16th century, scattered with Originally built in 1787–90
beautiful palaces and other sights. The archipelago is represented with as an open stable yard, the
the Fjäderholmarna building housing the museum
islands in the south.
There are no gates was completely destroyed by
around the Royal fire in 1953. The tent­like façade
National City Park, was restored to its former glory
so you may enter it in the 1960s, including the
without realising. painted copper cladding, but it
Guided boat tours was not until the 1970s that the
are available around stables behind were rebuild as a
Brunnsviken, with covered structure, in keeping
stops at some of the with the original design.
more impor tant The museum has its own
sights. For more café, whilst the “tents” on
information on either side contain their own
the Royal National restaurant and accommodation.
City Park and The large rolling lawn in front
bookings enquiries,
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) has habitats call 08­587 140 40. of the museum is popular
that support rich bird-life, including breeding herons with locals for sunbathing
and picnics in summer.



122-123_EW_Stockholm.indd 123 20/09/17 11:21 am

124  MA l M ARNA & F u R THER AFIEld

4 Hagaparken

In the mid-18th century King Gustav III decided to create
a royal park in the popular Haga area. The king’s vision
was realized by the fashionable architect Fredrik Magnus
Piper (1746–1824) with the help of leading architects and
decorators, and the result was an English-style park with Gustav III’s Pavilion, painted in 1811
some unusual buildings. A royal palace inspired by by A F Cederholm
Versailles in France was also planned, but construction
halted after the king’s death and it remained unfinished.
Today Hagaparken is part of the Royal National City Park
(Ekoparken; see p123), the world’s first national city park –
an oasis of nature and culture in the city centre.














Fjärils- & Fågelhuset
Hundreds of exotic butterflies
and birds fly freely around the
greenhouses containing humid
tropical rainforest with waterfalls
and luxuriant growth at a
temperature of 25°C (77°F).











. Koppartälten
These “Roman battle tents” designed by
Louis Jean Desprez were com pleted in
1790. They were originally used as stables
and accommoda tion, but now house a
restaurant, café and the Haga Parkmuseum.

KEY
1 Haga Parkmuseum
2 Ruined remains of Gustav III’s
unfinished royal palace.
3 Royal Cemetery Stora Pelousen
4 Old Haga The lawns stretching down from Koppartälten to
Brunnsviken are popular with Stockholmers for sun-
5 Turkish Pavilion
bathing and picnics in the summer, and skiing or
sledging in the winter. At the rear is Gustav III’s Paviljong.



124-125_EW_Stockholm.indd 124 18/11/15 2:51 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Eyewitness Travel
LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight & Street by Street “UK” LAYER
Starsight template
“UK” LAYER
template V2 (OpenType)
(Source v1.9)
Date 28th August 2012
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm
Size 125mm x 217mm

norr tull & ek op arken  125


Haga Slott VISItorS’ CHECKlISt
Built in 1802–4 for
Gustav IV Adolf, the Practical Information
palace was the 4 km (2 miles) N of Stockholm.
childhood home of the Gustav III’s Paviljong:
present monarch, Carl tel 08-402 61 30. 8 hourly Jun–
XVI Gustaf. It is now the Aug: noon–3pm Tue–Sun.
residence of Crown Haga Parkmuseum: tel 08-27 42
Princess Victoria, Prince 52. open 15 May–30 Sep: noon–
Daniel and family. 5pm Tue–Sun; 1 Oct–14 May:
10am–3pm Thu–Sun.
Fjärils- & Fågelhuset:
tel 08-730 39 81. open Apr–Sep:
10am–5pm Mon–Sun; Oct–Mar:
10am–3pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm
Sat & Sun. Closed 24, 25 &
31 Dec. - 0
∑ hagaparkmuseum.se
Transport
@ 515 from T-Odenplan.
Ekotemplet
This building designed by Louis g Royal Haga (in summer).
Jean Desprez in the 1790s was a
royal summer dining room. The
acoustics made it possible to
eavesdrop on secret conversations.






0 metres 200
0 yards 200

Kinesiska Pagoden
With the 18th century’s
fascination for anything Chinese,
this pagoda was a natural part of
Piper’s plans for the park.



















. Gustav III’s Paviljong
Olof Tempelman designed this Gustavian
masterpiece, and Louis Masreliez undertook
the interior decoration. The magnificent hall
of mirrors is particularly worth seeing.




124-125_EW_Stockholm.indd 125 18/11/15 2:51 pm

126  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

6 Bergianska
trädgården
3 km (2 miles) N of Stockholm.
Tel 08­545 917 00.  Universitetet.
@ 40, 540. Edvard Anderson
Conservatory: Open Apr–Sep:
11am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar:
11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm
Sat & Sun. Victoria House: Open May–
Sep: 11am–4pm Mon–Fri; 11am–5pm
Sat & Sun. & 8 7 = -
∑ bergianska.se
Bergianska trädgården
(Bergius Botanic Garden)
Polar bear in a natural setting at Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet features plants from all over
the world in beautiful natural
5 Naturhistoriska small est creatures and the settings, and provides an
Riksmuseet giants of the sea, while attractive display throughout
penguins, sea lions and polar the year. The garden consists
5 km (3 miles) N of Stockholm. bears await vis itors in “The of different areas such as
Tel 08­519 540 00.  Universitetet. Polar Regions”. the systematic section, the
@ 40, 540. Open10am–6pm Tue– During the 1980s the restau­ Japanese pond, the orchard
Sun. 8 by appointment. & 7 =
- 0 ∑ nrm.se rant and museum courtyard and the wetland. There
were given an artistic is a kitchen garden in the
Completed in 1916, the vast facelift by Nils Stenqvist, shade of 100­year­old
Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet Gunnar Larsson and Pål spruce hedges, and an
(Natural History Museum) was Svensson, and a major area for spices
designed by Axel Anderberg extension was added and medicinal
and decora ted by Carl in the early 1990s. plants.
Fagerberg. The museum is a This also saw the The Italian
venerable institution, founded opening of terrace has
in 1739 by Carl von Linné Cosmonova, which is been one of
(1707–78) as part of Vetenskaps­ both a planetarium and the outlooks of
akademien (the Academy of an IMAX cinema. The the garden ever
Science). It is one of the ten archi tects were Uhlin Mola Mola, since it was founded
largest museums of its kind in & Malm. The dome­ Naturhistoriska at the end of the
the world. Over the centuries, shaped cinema screen Riksmuseet 19th century.
the number of exhibits has is 25 times the size of a From the end
risen to about 17 million. normal screen. It is largely of May until the middle
During the 1990s it was due to Cosmonova that of June, visitors can enjoy
modernized with the aim of the museum is now a major the wonderful flowering
providing “experience­based visitor attraction. of rhododendrons in the
knowledge”. There are The Vega Monument was valley leading down
permanent collections, such erected in front of the museum to Brunnsviken.
as “Treasures from the Earth’s in 1930 to mark the 50th The Victoria House
Interior” and “The Human anniversary of explorer Adolf (1900) houses tropical
Journey”, along with temporary Erik Nordenskiöld’s first voyage water plants, utility plants
exhibitions. In “4.5 Billion Years” through the North­East Passage and epiphytes. The Edvard
visitors can get acquainted in his ship Vega. Designed by Anderson Conservatory
with the dinosaurs and the Ivar Johnsson, it is an obelisk (1995) has large sections
earliest human beings. “Life in dark granite topped with a for Mediterranean and
and Water” presents both the copper ship. tropical plants.










Bergianska trädgården’s Edvard Anderson Conservatory, featuring Mediterranean and tropical plants




126-127_EW_Stockholm.indd 126 19/09/17 12:01 pm

NORR TULL & EK OP ARKEN  127



















Ulriksdals Slott with its magnificent 18th-century Baroque exterior, seen from the palace park
7 Ulriksdals Slott exterior. After being a popular of the palace. A stream is
place for festivities in the time crossed by a footbridge, which
7 km (4 miles) N of Stockholm.
Tel 08-402 62 80. @ 503. g Royal of Gustav III (1746–92), it began is supported by Per Lundgren’s
Haga (summer). Palace, Orangery & to lose its glamour and at one Moors Dragging the Nets. More
Coronation carriage: Open mid-Jun– time was used as a home for art can be seen in the orangery,
mid-Aug: noon–4pm daily; May–mid- war invalids. designed by Tessin the Elder in
Jun & mid-Aug–Oct: noon–4pm Sat & Interest in the palace was the 1660s and rebuilt in 1705. It
Sun. Also available for pre-booked revived under Karl XV (1826–72), now houses a sculpture museum.
groups year-round. ^ & 7 = 0 and furnishings and handicrafts The palace chapel, a popular
- ∑ kungahuset.se/royalpalaces many hundreds of years old are place for weddings, was
on show in his rooms. The living designed by F W Scholander
Ulriksdals Slott is situated room of Gustav VI Adolf (1882– and built in 1865 in Dutch
between the two main roads 1973) in the rebuilt Knights’ Hall, Neo-Renaissance style. It
in the northern outskirts of contains fur nishings by the has some notable medieval
Stockholm – the E4 and great architect and designer stained-glass windows.
Norrtäljevägen. The palace Carl Malmsten. The suite was a It was from Ulriksdal that
sits on a headland in the bay gift from the Swedish people Queen Kristina’s Coronation
of Edsviken. Its attractive in 1923 to the then Crown procession departed in 1650.
buildings and lush and leafy Prince when he married Louise Legend has it that by the time
surroundings are well worth Mountbatten. A staircase was the queen reached the city, some
a visit. At the entrance to the built at the same time to of her retinue had still not left
grounds is one of Stockholm’s designs, that Tessin the Elder Ulriksdal. In one of the stables
best-known restaurants, had suggested 250 years earlier. there is a replica of Kristina’s
Ulriksdals Wärdshus. The park was laid out in carriage. A riding school, built
The original palace was built the mid-17th century. It has in 1671, was converted into a
in the 1640s and design ed by 300-year-old lime trees, as theatre by Carl Hårleman and
Hans Jakob Kristler in German/ well as one of Europe’s most C F Adelcrantz in the 1750s.
Dutch Renaissance style. The northerly beechwoods. Carl Performances are staged in the
owner, Marshal of the Realm Milles’s two sculptures of wild theatre, named Confidencen,
Jakob de la Gardie, named the boars stand by the pool in front every summer.
palace Jakobsdal. It was bought
in 1669 by the Dowager Queen
Hedvig Eleonora. When she had
a grandson, Ulrik, 15 years later
she donated the palace to
him as a christening gift, and
it was renamed Ulriksdal.
Around this time the architect
Tessin the Elder (see p38) suggest-
ed some rebuilding work, but
only a few of his proposals saw
the light of day. However, the
stucco work by Carlo Carove in
the southern wing can still be
seen. In the 18th century the
palace acquired its Baroque Sculpture on display in the 17th-century orangery at Ulriksdals Slott




126-127_EW_Stockholm.indd 127 19/09/17 12:01 pm

128  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

Södermalm & South of Söder

The Södermalm area, generally known as “Söder”, rises steeply
from the water and is something of a city in itself with its own
character, charm and dialect. The slopes are lined with old
wooden cottages with an un rivalled view of Stockholm. The
dramatic topography has provided some hilly parks, and
allotments are scattered among the built-up areas. The area
has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants and a lively nightlife,
as well as the latest in modern architecture. South of Söder is
Globen, a spectacular indoor arena, and Skogskyrkogården The towers of Mariaberget on a steep
Cemetery, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. hillside close to Slussen


Slussen Slussen
SÖDER MÄLARSTRAND 0 kilometres 1
VÄSTERBRON
Zinkensdamm HORNSGATAN 0 miles 0.5
FOLKUNGA GATAN
LÅNGHOLMSG
Hornstull RINGVÄGEN
Key SÖDERLEDSTUNNELN Medborgar-
platsen
ROSENLUNDSG.
Central Stockholm RENSTIERNAS GATA
Major road GÖTGATAN
RINGVÄGEN
Minor road 222
Sights at a Glance
1 Slussen 7 Fjällgatan y Mariaberget
2 Stockholms 8 Fotografiska u Högalidskyrkan
Stadsmuseum 9 Fåfängan i Långholmen
3 Katarinahissen 0 Spårvägsmuseet o Globen
4 Almgrens q Sofia Kyrka p Skogskyrkogården
Sidenväveri & w Vita Bergen Skanstull
Museum e Medborgarplatsen
5 Mosebacke r Södra Station Area NYNÄSVÄGEN 73
6 Katarina Kyrka t Leksaksmuseet
2 km (1.2 miles)
1 Slussen and land traffic was confined to 1935 and was so well designed
a narrow bridge. The conges­ that it was able to cope with
Map 4 C4.  Slussen. @ 2, 3, 43, 53,
55, 59 76. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. tion was eased in 1928, when the change to right­hand
some of the boat traffic was driving in 1967.
Steadily increasing traffic in the transferred to a new canal, but At Slussplan, facing Söder­
early 1900s turned the narrow the problem needed a more malm and the lock that bears
road between Söder malm and radical solution. This took the his name, is Bengt Fogelberg’s
Gamla Stan into a bottleneck. form of a clover­leaf system of bronze statue of Karl XIV on
All the boats sail ing between roundabouts devised by Tage horseback, unveiled in 1854 by
Lake Mälaren and the Baltic had William­Olsson and Gösta Oscar I on the 40th anniversary
to pass through the locks here, Lundborg. It was opened in of the union be tween Sweden
and Norway (1814–1905).
Around the same time, the locks
were rebuilt. New machinery
devised by the inventor Nils
Ericsson was installed. Today the
locks are used mostly by
pleasure boats, whose erratic
manoeuvres provide enter­
tainment for onlookers.
Although the construction
of Västerbron and Söderleden
have eased the traffic burden,
Slussen is still a busy junction and
Slussen’s intricate traffic system, opened in 1935 is in need of a thorough facelift.
For map symbols see back flap


128-129_EW_Stockholm.indd 128 19/09/17 11:53 am

SÖDERM ALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  129

2 Stockholms of Larsson’s best-selling
Stadsmuseum Millennium books (The
Girl with the Dragon Tattoo
Ryssgården. Map 4 B5. Tel 08-508 316 series), which are set in
00.  Slussen. @ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Södermalm. The tours are
Closed for renovation until Sep 2018. 2 hours long and start at
8 ^ 7 = - ∑ stadsmuseet. Bellmansgatan 1, home
stockholm.se
of character Mikael
Hemmed in between the traffic Blomkvist. Tours in English
roundabouts of Slussen and the take place on Saturdays
steep hill up to Mosebacke Torg at 11:30am even during Almgrens Sidenväveri (silk mill), now a museum with
is Stockholms Stadsmuseum the renovation period. working 19th-century looms
(City Museum). It is housed in a Tickets must be bought
late 17th-century building online in advance. when it carried 1.8 million
originally designed by Tessin people between Slussen
the Elder as Södra Stadshuset and Mosebacke Torg.
(Southern City Hall). After a fire, 3 Katarinahissen The lift is now closed to the
it was completed by Tessin the Stadsgården. Map 4 C5.  Slussen. public; however, there is a mod-
Younger in 1685. It has been @ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Closed to the ern lift to reach the restaurant
used for various pur poses over public. 0 J and the veranda at the top of the
the centuries, including law building, from where amazing
courts and dungeons, schools Katarinahissen is the oldest of views can still be enjoyed.
and city-hall cellars, theatres Stockholm’s “high-rise” attractions.
and churches. It became the The 38-m (125-ft) high lift was 4 Almgrens Siden­
city museum in the 1930s. opened to the public in March
The museum, which is closed 1883 and is still a prominent väveri & Museum
for renovation until autumn silhouette on the Söder skyline. Repslagargatan 15a. Map 9 D2.
2017, documents the history of The first Swedish neon sign was Tel 08-642 56 16. Open 10am–4pm
Stockholm. During the erected here in Mon–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat (25 Jun–
renovation period it 1909 – a legendary 6 Aug: 11am–3pm Mon–Fri). 8 1pm
is organising daily advertisement for Mon, Wed & Sat. & = ∑ kasiden.se
city walks (most in Stomatol tooth-
Swedish). The city’s paste. Since the Karl August Almgren was the
main stages of 1930s, the sign has founder of Almgren’s silk-
devel opment are Stomatol neon sign been placed on a weaving mill, now a museum,
described in a on Katarinahissen nearby rooftop. in 1833. While on a study tour
permanent exhi- The original lift was to Lyon and Tours in France
bition, and there are also regular driven by steam, but it switched in 1825, Almgren learned
temporary exhibitions. to electricity in 1915. In the about the punch-card
The library has a large 1930s it was replaced by a new system, which was one
archive of pictures and a lift, when the Cooperative of the secrets of France’s
documentary room. There Association (KF) built its large dominance of the silk business.
are also children’s acti vities, office complex at Slussen. In its Armed with this information,
concerts and lectures. first year the lift was used by he returned to Sweden with
The museum’s Stieg Larsson more than a million passengers, designs for modern looms
Millennium Tour visits the world but its record year was 1945, and opened his own mill. It
soon became a leader in the
market, which in the 1700s
had seen the establishment
of more than 30 silk-weaving
mills in Stockholm.
The Almgren family
continued the business until
1974, when the mill finally
closed. Everything was left
intact, and the mill took on a
new role in 1991 as a living
museum. In the weaving room
there is a museum shop selling
textiles. The area where the old
steam-driven machinery stood
is now used as a banqueting
room with well-preserved
Katarinahissen with Stockholms Stadsmuseum in the background 19th-century decorations.




128-129_EW_Stockholm.indd 129 19/09/17 11:53 am

130  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

5 Mosebacke de signed by one of
the era’s greatest
Map 9 D2.  Slussen, then a short
walk. @ 59, then a short walk. J architects, Jean de
la Vallée (1620–96).
The district of Mosebacke, King Karl X Gustaf
with its distinctive atmosphere, was also deeply
got its name from a miller and involved in the
landowner, Moses Israelsson, project, and he
the son-in-law of Johan insisted that the
Hansson Hök, who man aged church should have
two mills on the hilltop plateau a central nave with
in the 17th century. the altar and pulpit
In the mid-19th century right in the middle.
Mosebacke became increasing- The church was
ly attractive to Stockholmers as founded in 1656,
a centre for entertainment. A although it was not
theatre was built in 1852. completed until
However, it was destroyed by 1695. In 1723 it
fire soon after and replaced in was badly damaged
1859 by a new building, Södra by fire, but it was
Teatern, designed by Johan Katarina Kyrka (1695) after its extensive restoration due to restored over the
Fredrik Åbom. The gateway a devastating fire in 1990 next couple of
leading to Mosebacke Terrass decades. Major
and its spectacular panoramic fireproof-gable design, Morning restoration was also carried out
views of the city was added at Light, an al secco painting on in the 20th century, and a new
the same time. limestone plaster. copper roof was added in 1988.
Södra Teatern is a classic Two years later, on the night of
among Stockholm’s stages. 16 May 1990, there was another
Around 1900 the auditori um 6 Katarina Kyrka fire and, apart from the outer
was enhanced with a ceiling Högbergsgatan 13. Map 9 D2. Tel 08- walls, the church and virtually
painting by Vicke Andrén. In 743 68 00.  Medborgar platsen, all its fittings were destroyed.
the 1930s murals were added, then 3 min walk. @ 2, 3, 53, 76. Open The architectural practice Katarina
some by Isaac Grünewald. Carl 11am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun of Ove Hidemark was commis- Vägen
Eldh’s bronze bust, The Young (Oct–Mar: Tue–Sun only). 8 by sioned to design a new church,
Strindberg, placed on the appointment. 5 noon & 6pm Wed, which, as far as possible, would
theatre’s terrace in 1975, 11am Sat, 11am Sun. 7 = be a faithful recon struction
shows the author looking of the original. It was not just
across to the city from this very The buildings on Katarina- the outer shell of the building
terrace, recalling the character berget date partly from the that had to undergo detailed
of Arvid Falk in the beginning 18th century and surround a restoration. In order to make
of Strindberg’s novel The Red hilltop, where various churches the best use of the surviving
Room (1879). have been sited since the late walls, it was necessary to
Nils Sjögren’s sculpture The 14th century. The earlier adopt 17th-century building
Sisters stands behind railings on chapels were replaced in techniques throughout the
Mosebacke Torg. Attractive the 17th century by a more new building. Experts and
steps lead up to Fiskargatan. im pressive and appropriate craftsmen managed to join
At No. 12 is an experimental building, Katarina Kyrka, heavy tim bering on to the
central dome in the traditional
way, and the collapsed
central arch was rebuilt
with specially made bricks
in 17th-century style.
In 1995, the church was
reconsecrated, more beautiful
than ever in the view of many
people, with the altar sited exactly
where it was origi nally planned.
The reconstruction cost
270 million kronor, of which
145 million kronor were co vered
by insurance. Such was the
popularity of the project that
the rest was raised through
Mosebacke Torg with Södra Teatern in the background public donations.




130-131_EW_Stockholm.indd 130 01/12/2015 16:40

S Öderm A l m & S ou T h o F S Öder  131

7 Fjällgatan

Per Anders Fogelström (1917–98), pro bably Söder’s best-
known author, wrote: “Fjällgatan must be the city’s most
beautiful street. It’s an old-fashioned narrow street
which runs along the hilltop with well-maintained
cobble-stones… and with street lights jutting out from
the houses. Then the street opens up and gives a
fantastic view of the city and the water…” This area
offers an experience of the authentic Söder and its
unique atmosphere. The Heights of Söder
With its 300-year-old houses and
terraced gardens, the Söder hilltop
stands like a giant stage-set behind
Stadsgården harbour.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Viewpoint with magnificent Café
vista across the city.

Fjällgatan
Most of the houses were built along this
picturesque street after a devastating fire in 1723.
No. 34 is said to be the area’s oldest.



Katarina
F J Ä l l g a T a n
Vägen


S T i g b e r g S g a T a n



Stigberget





Mamsell Josabeth’s
Steps were named after Tjärhovsplan
Josabeth Sjöbert (1812–
82), a local painter.
Norwegian Sista Styverns Trappor
Church This alley of steps was once
known as Mikaelsgränd,
after a 17th-century
exe cutioner. Later it was
named after the inn on
the harbour, Sista Styvern
(“The Last Penny”).
Söder Cottages
Typical well-preserved cottages can be
found along Stigbergsgatan. No. 17 was Key
the house of the block maker Olof Krok
during the 1730s. Suggested route




130-131_EW_Stockholm.indd 131 18/11/15 2:52 pm

132  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD

8 Fotografiska
Stadsgårdshamnen 22. Map 4 C5. Tel
08-509 005 00. @ 2, 3, 53, 76. 
Slussen. Open 9am–11pm daily (Thu–
Sat: to 1am). 8 & 7 = - 0
∑ fotografiska.eu
Housed in a former industrial
Art Nouveau-style building
dating from 1906, Fotografiska
has 5,500 sq m (59,200 sq ft) of
exhibition space and is one the
world’s largest hubs of contem-
po rary photography. World-
renowned names such as Annie
Leibovitz and David LaChapelle Sofia Kyrka and Vita Bergen park with its 18th-century cottages
are represented, alongside
unestablished photographers. 0 Spårvägsmuseet altar fresco by Hilding Linnqvist
Fotografiska also curates four Tegelviksgatan 22. Map 9 F3. with themes from the Old
major exhibitions and 20 smaller Tel 08-686 17 60. @ 53, 55, 66. and New Testaments. The
exhibitions per year. There is an Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, interior acquired its present
innovative experiential restau- 11am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 by appt. & appear ance as part of a major
rant by Paul Svensson, and 7 = - ∑ sparvagsmuseet.sl.se renovation in the early 1980s,
the top-floor café offers one of when the layout of the church
Stockholm’s best viewing points. The Tram Museum, Spårvägs- was radically altered.
museet, covers the develop-
ment of the Stockholm public
9 Fåfängan transport system, SL, from the w Vita Bergen
Map 6 A5. @ 53. - J horse-drawn buses of the 19th Map 9 F3. @ 2, 3, 66, 76.
century to today’s high-tech
Fåfängan, at Södermalm’s underground trains. Visitors can Vita Bergen (White Moun tains)
most easterly point, provides a try out old and new trams and is best known as a park, largely
grand stand view of the boats buses for comfort and can because of Swedish TV
using Stockholm’s harbour. experience a driver’s-eye view broadcasts from its open-air
The hill and its park were of the city traffic on film. theatre. But it is more than
given the name Fåfängan in the just a park. Houses for workers
1770s. The wholesale merchant at Söder’s harbours and
Fredrik Lundin owned the area q Sofia Kyrka factories were built on and
at that time, and he built a Vitabergsparken. Map 9 F3. Tel 08- around the hill top in the 18th
pavilion, which still stands on 615 31 00. @ 3, 4, 76. Open 11am– century. They were simple
the hilltop in a square garden 5pm daily. 5 6:30pm Thu, 11am Sun. homes, often with a small
filled with flowerbeds. The word 8 by appt. 7 = Concerts 3pm Sat. garden and surrounded by a
“Fåfängan” (“Vanity”) origin ally ∑ svenskakyrkan.se fence. In 1736 the building of
denoted an area of land that new wooden houses was
was not worth using. But in High up on Vita Bergen, forbid den because of the fire
Stockholm it has a special surrounded by a leafy green park, risk, but the slum districts were
meaning: “The pavilion on the is Sofia Kyrka, named after Oscar exempted. As a result, areas
hilltop with a marvellous view.” II’s consort and built in 1902–6. such as Bergsprängargränd still
It is a delightful place for a coffee The 35-year-old architect have houses that have retained
break while exploring Söder. Gustaf Hermansson, who had their original character and give
already designed several a good idea of life in bygone days.
churches, including Around 1900, when Sofia
Oscars kyrkan at Kyrka was built, the area was
Östermalm, created a turned into a leafy hillside park.
monumental design This was complemented to the
with both National east by an area of allotment-
Romantic and Gothic garden cottages. Towards
influences and tall spires. Malmgårdsvägen is the 300- year-
Three windows by old Werner Groen Malmgård
Olle Hjortzberg are all (suburban mansion). The park
that remain of the has a bronze statue, Elsa Borg
original decorations. The (1972), by Astri Bergman Taube,
Horse-drawn tram from the 1890s on early 1950s saw the wife of the great troubadour
display in Spårvägsmuseet addition of the large Evert Taube (see p59).




132-133_EW_Stockholm.indd 132 19/09/17 12:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SÖDERM ALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  133

e Medborgar­
platsen
Map 9 D3.  Medborgarplatsen.
@ 59, 66.
Södermalm’s natural centre is
Medborgarplatsen. The square
had been called Södra Ban torget
for more than 100 years, but
in 1939 it was renamed
Medborgarplatsen (Citizen’s
Square) on com pletion of
Medborgarhuset. The building,
designed by Martin Westerberg in
Functionalist and Neo-Classical
styles, contains an auditorium,
gym, swimming pool and library.
On the west side of the
square is Söderhallarna, a The lofty Södertorn and Ricardo Bofill’s curved building near Södra Station
complex of restaurants,
delicatessens and a cinema. r Södra Station sallén and the rail-shuttle
In 1984 the Göta Ark offices, Area station. A 200-m (660-ft) long
designed by Claes Mellin and avenue with 16 sculptures
Willy Hermansson, were added Map 8 C3.  Medborgarplatsen or cuts diagonally across the
on the northwest side. Mariatorget, then a short walk. @ 43, park, with a fountain and
Alongside the stairway to Södra 55, 66. pool in the middle. In the
Station is the Södertorn apart- northern part of the park a
ment block designed by the In the mid-19th century flower garden has been named
Danish architect Henning Larssen. Fatburen lake existed to the after the Swedish composer
At the entrance is Nana’s Fountain west of Medborgarplatsen. It Johan Helmich Roman (1694–
by Niki de Saint-Phalle, who also was filled in, and in the 1860s 1758). The arches of Bofill’s
created a large sculpture group a train station – Södra – was curved building shelter some
(see p78) at the Moderna museet opened nearby. In the 1980s interesting works of art.
(see pp82–3). The western corner the track site was transformed
of Medborgarhuset features a into a new residential area
17th-century gateway. Closer with approximately 3,000 t Leksaksmuseet
to Götgatan is Gustaf Nordahl’s apartments. Tegelviksgatan 22. Map 8 F3. Tel 08-
The Source of Life (1983). The district became a test- 641 61 00.  Slussen. @ 2, 55, 66.
Göran Strååt’s sculpture bed for the design concepts Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–
Kasper can be seen at the of the 1980s and was shaped 4pm Sat & Sun. 8 by appt. & 7
17th-century Lillienhoffska by architects’ efforts towards = - ∑ leksaksmuseet.se
Palatset. Stefan Thorén’s Stockholm’s urban renewal.
sculpture Dawn in welded iron The most interesting additions Toys, which have delighted
is a dominant feature on the were by the Spanish architect children and adults alike over
square outside. Ricardo Bofill. He designed the the past century, are on show
tower blocks near to at Leksaksmuseet (the Toy
the station building Museum). The museum was
as well as the curved opened in 1980, and the main
residential building exhibition changes continu-
– the area’s most ously as new toys are added
impressive Neo- to the collection.
Classical feature – One section features musical
which adjoins instruments, including musical
Fatbur Park. boxes, barrel organs and
The park has an accordions. Another area is
open section close devoted to mechanical toys,
to Bofill’s curved models and dioramas. A third
building, with a section has dolls, dolls’ houses,
wooded area further wooden toys, steam engines,
away. It is crossed by and several working model
a path, which links railways. Private collections
Medborgarplatsen, central Södermalm, with Medborgarplatsen are also on show. There is a
Lillienhoffska Palatset, once a poorhouse with Södermalm- playroom and children’s theatre.




132-133_EW_Stockholm.indd 133 19/09/17 12:01 pm

134  M ALM ARNA & FUR THER AFIELD


Scandinavia – as well as the
frescoes in the baptismal chapel
and the decoration of the pulpit
and organ loft. Erik Jerke created
the reredos in Byzantine style.
In the cemetery chapel below
the chancel, Einar Forseth
designed an apse mosaic
using the same techniques
he employed for Gyllene Salen
(the Golden Room) in
Stadshuset (see pp116–7).
Bastugatan, one of Mariaberget’s well-preserved 18th-century streets By no means is everything
in the church new. The font is
y Mariaberget site where there have been reli­ from the 16th century, and the
gious buildings since the 14th seven­stemmed candle stick
Map 8 C2.  Mariatorget. @ 43, 55.
century. The predecessor of the on the altar dates from the
A fire in 1759 destroyed the old present building was con structed 18th century.
buildings of Mariaberget. The in 1634. It burnt down in 1759
area was rebuilt according to and was rebuilt four years later.
a 1736 law for bidding the
construction of wooden houses
in this part of Söder. The result u Högalidskyrkan
of this purposeful 18th­century Högalids Kyrkväg. Map 1 C5. Tel
town planning remains intact. 08­616 88 00.  Hornstull. @ 4, 66,
Mariaberget’s stone buildings 74. Open 9am–noon & 1–3pm
on the slopes down towards Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, 9am–noon Wed,
Riddarfjärden are among 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 5 noon
Stockholm’s most distinctive, Wed, 1pm Thu, 11am Sun. 7 = Exercise yard in the former royal
and the character of the steep prison on Långholmen
winding streets and alleys has The octagonal twin towers
been well preserved. of Högalidskyrkan make the i Långholmen
Towards the end of the 20th church easy to identify from Map 1 B5.  Hornstull, then 3 min
century a conservation pro­ many parts of the city. The walk. @ 66. S
gramme was implemented to impressive brick building in
safeguard the area’s cultural National Romantic style was Below the majestic Väster bron
heritage, including the view completed in 1923. It was (see p115) is the island of
over Riddarfjärden. Near designed by Ivar Tengbom. Långholmen, which is linked to
Bastugatan, an attractive He also put his mark on the Södermalm by two bridges.
promenade, Monteliusvägen, interior decoration, which Långholmen is best known for
has been built along the rock’s involved a number of leading the various prisons, which have
edge. A new flight of steps artists and craftsmen. been located here since 1724.
leads down to the Söder Tengbom was enlisted to During the 20th century the
Mälarstrand quayside. design the columbarium, which prison here was the largest in
The author Ivar Lo­Johansson was added in 1939. The most Sweden, housing 620 inmates.
(1901–90) lived in this area for prolific artist was Gunnar When the prison closed in 1975,
more than half a century. A Torhamn, who provided the island became a popular
small park with a bust of the the Crucifix – the largest in recreational area.
artist bears his name. The The prison buildings were
18th­century poet C M Bellman demolished in 1982, but the
(see p98) was born at Maria­ old royal jail dating from 1835
berget, although he is more remains. The one­time cells now
usually associated with Haga form part of a hotel, as well as a
and Djurgården. prison museum. There is also a
Mariaberget presents a pleas­ youth hostel and an excellent
ant contrast to the busy traffic restaurant, as well as a small
artery of Hornsgatan. When the museum to the poet C M
street was widened and levelled Bellman (see p98) with a café in
in 1901, a number of 18th­ the gardens, which run down
century buildings came into view. towards Riddarfjärden.
The area now features galleries Långholmen’s park has an
and antiques shops. On the open­air theatre, and offers
opposite side of Hornsgatan is The distinctive twin towers of excellent swimming both from
Maria Magdalena Kyrka, on a Högalidskyrkan, built in 1923 the beaches and the rocks.




134-135_EW_Stockholm.indd 134 19/09/17 11:53 am

SÖDERM ALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  135


o Globen
3 km (2 miles) S of Stockholm.
 Globen. Tel 08-50 83 53 00.
Open during events. 8 by appt.
7 - = ∑ globen.se
The Globen, or Ericsson Globe,
is Sweden’s national indoor
arena. Built to represent the Sun
in the Swedish Solar System, the
unusual structure took two and a
half years to build and opened in
1989. It is the world’s largest
hemispherical building and seats
up to 16,000 spectators. Chapel of the Holy Cross by Gunnar Asplund at Skogskyrkogården
The Globen is primarily used
for ice hockey, and is home p Skogskyrko­ steep shingled roof, was opened
to the Swedish national team. gården at the same time as the cemetery
The arena has also been used in 1920. This was followed 5 years
for major cultural events. In 1989, 6 km (4 miles) S of Stockholm. later by Uppståndelsekapellet
Pope John Paul II held Mass at Tel 08-508 317 30.  Skogskyrko- (Resurrection Chapel), designed
the Globen – the first ever Mass går den. @ 183 (weekends only). by Lewerentz.
8 Jul–Sep: 10:30am Sun (in English).
to be conducted by a pope in 7 - ∑ skogskyrkogarden.se In 1940 Asplund’s last great
Sweden. The Dalai Lama and work, Skogskrematoriet
Nelson Mandela are among the Nature and the splendid (Woodland Crematorium), was
many influential figures who buildings have combined to opened, along with its three
have given speeches here. provide a harmonious setting, chapels representing Faith,
The arena is also a popular venue which has placed Skogskyrko- Hope and the Holy Cross.
for concerts, and has hosted gården Cemetery on the They are sited along Korsets
international artists such as UNESCO World Heritage list. It Väg. John Lundqvist’s The
U2, the Rolling Stones is sited amid pine woods, Resurrection stands in the
and Beyoncé. which provide a justly pillared hall of Heliga Korsets
Visitors can take in sombre frame work Kapell – the largest of the three.
sweeping views of for the chapels Adjoining the chapel is
Stockholm from and crematorium. Asplund’s black granite cross.
SkyView, an inclined The winners of a A memorial park was added
lift on the exterior of competition to de - in 1961 to the north-west of the
the building. Two Epitaph to Gunnar Asplund sign the cemetery in chapel. The Hill of Meditation
specially designed 1914 were Gunnar lies to the west. The chapel has
glass gondolas, each carrying Asplund (see p119) and Sigurd been decorated by artists
16 passengers, take visitors Lewerentz, whose proposals including Carl Milles, Sven
to the apex of the globe, which were considered the most likely Erixson and Gunnar Torhamn.
is 130 m (425 ft) above sea level. to safeguard the area’s special Skogskyrkogården is the last
There are often long queues for character. Asplund’s first resting place of both the
SkyView, especially at weekends significant work, Skogs kapellet unknown and the celebrated,
and during school holidays, so (Woodland Chapel), with its among whom is Greta Garbo.
it is advisable to book your slot
well in advance.
Greta Garbo
The legendary Greta Garbo, one of the 20th century’s out standing
film stars, was born in 1905 in a humble part of Södermalm. At the
age of 17 she joined the theatre academy of
Dramaten and made her film debut in Peter
the Tramp. Her breakthrough came in 1924
in Mauritz Stiller’s film of Selma Lagerlöf’s
book The Atonement of Gösta Berling. The
following year she moved to Hollywood,
where she soon became the reigning star.
Garbo appeared in 24 films, including Anna
Karenina (1935) and Camille (1936). She
never married and lived a solitary life until
her death in 1990. Her ashes were interred Garbo in As You Desire
The enormous Globen arena, which at the Skogskyrkogården Cemetery in 1999. Me (1932)
dominates the surrounding area




134-135_EW_Stockholm.indd 135 19/09/17 11:53 am

136  ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA
THREE GUIDED WALKS


Stockholm is a perfect city for walking. Not city’s most appealing districts: discover
only is it flat, but the island layout means residential Södermalm (also known as “Söder”)
many areas feel uncrowded, mak ing it ideal south of the centre, with great views of the city
for stress­free strolling through the streets centre; take in some of Stockholm’s best park­
and thor oughfares. Many of Stockholm’s land on Djurgården – the perfect destination
pedestrian areas also have cycle paths running for a picnic; and finally, explore the commercial
alongside them, so take care to observe the heart of the Swedish capital, following a route
painted signs on the ground, indicating which which takes you past leading department
side of the line you should walk. These guided stores and boutiques, as well as more sedate
walks have been devised to cover some of the churches and monuments.











KARL
R i d d a r f j ä r d e n Central- JOHANS
TORG
bron
7 6 5 SÖDER MÄLARSTRAND
A view of Södermalm in the sunlight MARIABERGET SLUSSEN
SKINNARVIKS- TORKEL KNUTSSO NSGATAN 1
PARKEN BASTUG. 4 2 SÖDER-
TAVASTGATAN
HELENEBORGSG SKINNARVIKSRINGEN BRÄNNKYRKAG. MALMSTORG
Key HÖGALIDSGATAN BRÄNNKYRKAGATAN HORNSGATAN 3 GÖTGATAN Slussen
LUNDAGATAN TORGET RAGVALDSG.
MARIA-
Walk route VARVSG Zinkensdamm TORKEL KNUTSSONSG Maria- TIMMERMANSGATAN SANKT PAULSG. BELLMANSGATAN
torget
HORNSGATAN KRUKMAKARGATAN Maria-
torget
Stadsbiblioteket (the city library) in central q RINGVÄGEN 8
Stockholm (see p119) WOLLMAR YXKULLSGATAN
0 kilometres 1 DRAKENBERGS- MARIA P RÄSTGÅRDSGATA HÖGBERGSGATAN
GATAN
0 miles 1 0 ZINKENS VÄG M. SKOLGATA ROSENLUNDSG.
A 90-Minute Walk around HORNSVIKSSTIGEN 9 MARIA BANGATA
the City Centre (pp140–41) TANTOLUNDEN
Vasastaden
Gärdet
Birkastan
Östermalm
Ladugårdsgärdet
Norrmalm
Kungsholmen City Blasie-
holmen
Skepps- Djurgården
Gamla holmen
Riddarfjärden Stan
Saltsjön
Södermalm
A 30-Minute Walk around A 90-Minute Walk on
Södermalm (p137) Djurgården (pp138–9)





136-137_EW_Stockholm.indd 136 19/09/17 11:53 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  137

A 30-Minute Walk around Södermalm

Winding through a charming mix of narrow residential streets
and neighbourhood allotments with their red and white
summer cottages, this walk also offers the best views of
Stockholm from anywhere in the city. There is also the chance to
browse in some of the more quirky stores or stop at a streetside
café whilst exploring this largely undiscovered side of Stockholm.
Begin at Södermalms torg 1, sought after addresses. Turn
the heart of one of Stockholm’s right into Bellmansgatan and
main traffic interchanges, head north towards Söder’s
Slussen. Before leaving the northern shore, then take a left
into pretty, cobbled Bastugatan
4, full of 18th-century houses.
Turn right into Blecktornsgränd 7 Boats serving as floating hotels lining
5 to see some of the finest Söder Mälarstrand
views in the city, with open
vistas out over Riddarholmen,
Gamla Stan and the city centre. 0 metres 500
Follow the narrow path of 0 yards 500
Monteliusvägen 6 west,
enjoying the sweeping views
5 View of Riddarholmen from
KARL
Blecktornsgränd R i d d a r f j ä r d e n Central- JOHANS
TORG
bron
7 6 5 SÖDER MÄLARSTRAND SLUSSEN
SKINNARVIKS- TORKEL KNUTSSO NSGATAN MARIABERGET 1
PARKEN BASTUG. 4 2 SÖDER-
TAVASTGATAN
HELENEBORGSG BRÄNNKYRKAG. MALMSTORG
HÖGALIDSGATAN SKINNARVIKSRINGEN HORNSGATAN 3 Slussen
LUNDAGATAN BRÄNNKYRKAGATAN MARIA- RAGVALDSG. GÖTGATAN
Maria- TORGET BELLMANSGATAN
Zinkensdamm TORKEL KNUTSSONSG torget TIMMERMANSGATAN SANKT PAULSG.
HORNSGATAN KRUKMAKARGATAN Maria-
VARVSG
torget
q RINGVÄGEN 8
DRAKENBERGS- WOLLMAR YXKULLSGATAN MARIA P RÄSTGÅRDSGATA HÖGBERGSGATAN
GATAN
0 ZINKENS VÄG M. SKOLGATA ROSENLUNDSG.
HORNSVIKSSTIGEN 9 MARIA BANGATA Key
Walk route
TANTOLUNDEN
square, glance up at the roofs of on your right; several of the steps of Pipmakartrappan
the surrounding buildings and house-boats below on Söder back to Hornsgatan and the
you’ll see Sweden’s first ever Mälarstrand 7 now serve as end of the walk q.
neon sign for the now defunct floating hotels.
Stomatol toothpaste. From At Timmermansgatan head Tips for Walkers
Södermalms torg, head west south until you reach Wollmar
along Hornsgatan 2. Söder has Yxkullsgatan 8, considered by Starting point: The easiest way
a plethora of good restaurants some to be the heart to get to the start of the walk is to
and unusual shops, and on the of Södermalm. take the T-bana to Slussen;
initial stretch of this long road Now head right along Södermalms torg is just outside
you will also find many small, Wollmar Yxkullsgatan until you the main exit.
interesting art galleries. On the reach Ringvägen. Cross this road Length: 2.5 km (1.6 miles)
left as you make your way along and take the delightful Zinkens Duration: Half an hour
Stopping-off points: There are
Hornsgatan you’ll soon pass the Väg 9 through an area of plenty of cafés and shops along
17th century Maria Magdalena allotments and small summer Hornsgatan for a break or rest.
Kyrka 3 designed by the same cottages in the Zinkensdamm Ending the walk: At the end
architects as the Royal Palace. area 0. Owners often spend of the walk you can take the
Now leave the main road several days at a time here Zinkensdamm T-bana located
to walk along some of Söder’s pottering in their gardens. After on Hornsgatan (two stops west
residential streets which are passing the Zinkensdamm youth of Slussen).
among Stockholm’s most hostel, head north up the
For map symbols see back flap
136-137_EW_Stockholm.indd 137 19/09/17 11:53 am

138  ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk on Djurgården

This delightful walk offers a chance to explore the former
royal hunting grounds of Djurgården, an island which forms
the northern side of Stockholm harbour. Heavily wooded
and dotted with grand old houses, the island offers peace,
tranquillity and some of the city’s most striking museums.
There are also stunning views across Stockholm from the
top of the Kaknäs TV tower.

Nordiska museet to Ryssviken vertical drop of around 100 m
The walk starts at the palatial (330 ft). From here Djurgårdsvägen
Nordiska museet 1, one of the swings east on its way around
city’s best museums, which Djurgården. Follow the road to
provides a good grounding in the small inlet, Ryssviken 4,
the history of everyday Swedish where you could end the walk
life. From the museum, follow if you wish and take the Tram 7 The greenery of Djurgården as seen
Djurgårdsvägen south, looking back to the city. from the air
out for the boat-shaped q
building behind the Nordiska
museet. Here resides the GÄRDESGATAN SKARP öGATAN
former warship, Vasa. She Karlaplan e DJURGÅRDSBRUNNSVÄGEN K AKNÄSVÄGEN
sank in Stockholm harbour 800m (740 yards) S T RANDVÄGEN
on her maiden voyage in 1628 r NOBELGATAN w MUSEIVÄGEN LIDOVÄ GEN HUN DUD D S VÄGEN
(see pp94–6). t NOBEL- DJURGÅRDSBRUNNSVÄGEN
PARKEN
Continuing on, you will soon
come to the eclectic Liljevalchs Djurgårdsbrunnsviken
Konsthall art gallery 2 (see p97) KÄRLEKS- DE BESCHES VÄG
which hosts frequently UDDEN DE B ESCHES VÄG Djurgårds-
ROSENDALSVÄGEN brunnsbron
changing exhibitions of art and
ROSENDALSVÄGEN
sculpture. Once at Almänna 1 ROSENDALSVÄGEN SIRISHOVSVÄGEN Djurgårdsbrunnskanalen
Gränd, you are entering the RO S END ALST E RRASS EN ISRAE L AF STRÖMS VÄG KANALALLÉN
SÖDRA
pleasure zone: there are often VARVSPORTEN MANILLAVÄGEN PRINS CARLS VÄG Lilla
crowds of children here heading Sjötulls-
bron
for the amusement park, Gröna SIRISHOVSVÄGEN O R ANGERIVÄGEN F REDRIK BL O MS VÄG Isblads- 0
Lund 3 (see p97), which SKANSEN kärret
INGEBORGS VÄG
features several hair-raising 2 BELLMANS VÄG DJURGÅRDEN EDELSTAMS VÄG PRINSESSAN
rides including the “Free Fall”, a
ALLMÄNNA 3 DJURGÅRDS- SINGELBACKEN BELLMANSRO
GRÄND
SLÄTTEN
Tips for Walkers DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN PRIN SESSAN MÄRTAS V Ä G
4 PRINS E U G E NS VÄG DJU R G Å RDSVÄGEN BLOCKHUSRINGEN
Starting point: Tram number 7 7 SJÖTULLSBACKEN
9
or bus 44 will bring you closest to Beckholms- Ryssviken Blockhusudden
the Nordiska museet. bron FRISENS PARK Route 69
Length: 8.5 km (5.3 miles) 8 Bus Terminus
Duration: One and a half to 2 6
hours
Stopping-off points: A great 5
spot for lunch or a cup of coffee
is the Blå Porten, Djurgårdsvägen Ryssviken to Blockhusudden
64, near the Liljevachs Konsthall From Ryssviken, take the path
art gallery. The café at the top of south to the promontory
the Kaknästornet TV tower has known as Waldemarsudde 5
the best views of Stockholm. (see p99) with its good views
End point: You could end this across the harbour and
walk early at Blockhusudden, excellent art gallery specialising
which is conveniently the in late 19th-century Nordic art.
terminus for the 69 bus which From here, it is a pleasant
runs all the way back into the walk along the waterfront to
centre of the city via Strandvägen another small promontory,
and Sergels torg. From the end of Biskopsudden 6.
the walk at Strandvägen buses 69 Heading east a short distance
and 79 run back to the centre. along Biskopsvägen, pick up The Vasamuseet, home to the former
another path along the shore warship, the Vasa
For map symbols see back flap
138-139_EW_Stockholm.indd 138 18/11/15 2:52 pm
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Date 5th December 2012
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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  139


which begins just south of the
junction with Djurgårdsvägen
7. This path leads to the
eastern end of Djurgården,
Blockhusudden 8, which gives
views of the hi-tech business
centre, Nacka Strand, on the
southern side of the harbour
and the residential area,
Jarlaberg, high on the cliffs
above. The arcing sculpture of
a boy atop a crescent of steel
that you can see across the
water is Gud på himmelsbågen, Carl Milles’ sculpture, Gud på himmelsbågen
by Stockholm sculptor Carl
Milles (see p152). Blockhusudden to This is a long diversion from
Berwaldhallen concert hall the main route, but worth it
On foot, continue northeast if you are feeling energetic.
to Lilla Sjötullsbron bridge 0. At 155 m (508 ft) high, the
The stretch of path before the tower is one of the tallest
q bridge runs past a marshy pond, buildings in Scandinavia and
GÄRDESGATAN e SKARP öGATAN especially preserved for its even boasts a café at around
800m (740 yards) S T RANDVÄGEN
Karlaplan DJURGÅRDSBRUNNSVÄGEN K AKNÄSVÄGEN birdlife. Once over the bridge, 120 m (390 ft) elevation.
head west along the tranquil
From the tower, backtrack to
r NOBELGATAN w MUSEIVÄGEN LIDOV Ä GEN canal to meet upwith the main walk and head west
NOBEL-
t PARKEN DJURGÅRDSBRUNNSVÄGEN Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen along the canal path past a
HUN DUD D S VÄGEN
which leads towards the clutch of museums on your
Djurgårdsbrunnsviken
Kaknästornet TV tower right, including the Sjöhistoriska
q (see p110). museet w (see pp108–9), which
KÄRLEKS- DE BESCHES VÄG DE B ESCHES VÄG
UDDEN Djurgårds- reveals Sweden’s maritime
ROSENDALSVÄGEN brunnsbron
ROSENDALSVÄGEN history. Further along the path,
ROSENDALSVÄGEN
1 SIRISHOVSVÄGEN Djurgårdsbrunnskanalen the imposing villas on the right
SÖDRA RO S END ALST E RRASS EN ISRAE L AF STRÖMS VÄG KANALALLÉN are part of Diplomatstaden
VARVSPORTEN MANILLAVÄGEN PRINS CARLS VÄG Lilla (“Diplomat’s Town”, see
Sjötulls-
p108), home to several
SIRISHOVSVÄGEN O R ANGERIVÄGEN F REDRIK BL O MS VÄG Isblads- 0 Embassies, including that
bron
SKANSEN of the United States of
INGEBORGS VÄG
2 BELLMANS VÄG DJURGÅRDEN EDELSTAMS VÄG kärret PRINSESSAN America e. The spire rising
ALLMÄNNA 3 DJURGÅRDS- SINGELBACKEN BELLMANSRO from behind the waterfront
GRÄND
houses belongs to Engelska
SLÄTTEN
DJURGÅRDSVÄGEN PRIN SESSAN MÄRTAS V Ä G Kyrkan r, the English
4 PRINS E U G E NS VÄG 7 DJU R G Å RDSVÄGEN BLOCKHUSRINGEN Church. To finish the
9
Ryssviken SJÖTULLSBACKEN walk, take the path
Beckholms- FRISENS PARK Blockhusudden around Nobel Parken
bron
Route 69 and end at
Bus Terminus
6 8 Strandvägen, with its
elegant façades lining
5 the waterfront t.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Key
Walk route
Blockhusudden is also home to
Thielska Galleriet 9 (see p99), a
superb art gallery with a fine
collection of 19th-century
Scandinavian art. If you wish
to end the walk at this point,
there is a bus from here back
to the city. t Palatial waterfront houses along Strandvägen
138-139_EW_Stockholm.indd 139 18/11/15 2:52 pm

140  ST OCKHOLM AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk around the City Centre

This walk will take you right through the heart of Stockholm,
giving you a chance to browse in the city’s best shops or to
enjoy a coffee and pastry in one of the many cafés you’ll pass.
It also provides a chance to see some of the imposing buildings
that Stockholm has to offer, such as the magnificent Konserthuset
or the architecturally interesting Stadsbiblioteket. The route also
includes a park or two where you can take a break and escape
the bustling streets. 5 Plaque in memory of Olof Palme



ODENGATAN TULEGATAN KARLAVÄGEN

ODENGATAN w MARKVARDSGATAN BIRGER JARLSGATAN
HAGAGATAN
Odenplan S V E A V Ä G E N
ODEN- 0 GYIDÉN- REHNSGATAN
PLAN GATAN
q KUNGSTENSGATAN
OBSERVATORIE- Rådmans-
LUNDEN gatan
RÅDMANSGATAN
9 e DÖBELNSGATAN ERIKSBERGS-
VEGAGATAN
NORRTULLSGATAN
PARKEN
OBSERVATORIEGATAN LUNTMAKARGATAN R U N EBERGS GATAN
UPPLANDSGATAN
7 Strindberg’s study at Strindbergsmuseet KUNGSTENSGATAN TEGNÉRGATAN ERIKSBERGS-
PLAN
Blå Tornet (The Blue Tower), Drottninggatan HOLLÄNDARGATAN Rådmans-
gatan
SALTMÄTARGATAN
Sergels Torg to r IVERSONSG.
TEGNÉRGATAN
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka RÅDMANSGATAN 8 JUTAS BACKE
This walk begins at Sergels Torg HUMLEGÅRDEN
(see p69) 1, a split-level square TEGNÉR- 7
widely regarded as the very LUNDEN 6 S V E A V LUNTMAKARGATAN REGERINGSGATAN
centre of the modern city. It is DROTTNINGGATAN ENGELBREKTS-
PLAN
marked by a tall glass obelisk KAMMAKARGATAN ADOLF DAVID BAGARES GATA GREV TUREGATAN
which is illuminated at night. WALLINGATAN FREDRIKS KYRKOGATA Ä G E N 5 HUMLEGÅRDSGATAN
From this point, take Hötorget BRUNNSGATAN
pedestrianised Sergelgatan to her by the ground OLOF PALMES GATA t KUNGSGATAN y
OLOFSGATAN
north to reach the city’s main floor entrance. STURE-
PLAN
market square, Hötorget (see On the opposite side APELBERGSGATAN
p70) 2, full of vegetables and of Hötorget is the grand 4 Hötorget OXTORGSG. LÄSTMAKARGATAN Östermalms-
torg
flowers for sale. It was in the Konserthuset (see p70) 3, KUNGSGATAN 2 3 JAKOBSBERGSGATAN
PUB department store here in home to the Swedish Royal BIBLIOTEKSGATAN RIDDARDGATAN
the square that film legend Philharmonic Orchestra. In front SERGELGATAN Hötorget MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN NORRLANDSGATAN
Greta Garbo sold hats in the of Konserthuset stands Carl NYBROGATAN
millinery department; there Mille’s sculpture, Orpheus. Across SMÅLANDSGATAN
is a small exhibition devoted Kungsgatan you will see the Kungshallen
MÄSTER
shopping mall SAMUELSGATAN REGERINGS GATAN NYBRO-
PLAN
4, which also 1 HAMNGATAN KUNGSTRÄD- BERZELI
PARK
contains several T-Centralen GÅRDEN
cafés and
restaurants. From
Kungsgatan turn left
into Sveavägen. At the
junction with Olof
Palmes Gata you will find a
plaque in the pavement that
marks the spot where the
former Swedish Prime Minister,
Olof Palme, was gunned down
in 1986 as he left a nearby
3 The colourful Hötorget market, outside Konserthuset cinema with his wife 5.
For map symbols see back flap
140-141_EW_Stockholm.indd 140 19/09/17 11:53 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  141


A short distance to the north, constructed much
still on Sveavägen, Palme’s earlier in 1692.
grave can be visited in the Look out for a set
churchyard at Adolf Fredriks of stone steps on the
Kyrka (see p72) 6. left which lead down
onto Kungsgatan
Blå Tornet to Odenplan beside the Neo-Class ical
Just after the church, turn left Kungstornen twin
into Kammakargatan to reach towers (see pp70–71) t,
the former home of writer which dominate this
August Strindberg, now a part of the city. Once on
museum, Blå Tornet (see p71) 7, Kungsgatan, you will
at the corner of Drottninggatan. find a good selection
Head uphill on Drottninggatan, of cafés and stylish
ODENGATAN TULEGATAN KARLAVÄGEN past small quirky shops and shops, as well as several
various popular cafés 8.
cinemas near the
Once past Kungstensgatan,
Kungstornen bridge.
ODENGATAN w MARKVARDSGATAN BIRGER JARLSGATAN Drottninggatan becomes The walk ends with a
HAGAGATAN
Odenplan S V E A V Ä G E N Norrtullsgatan and continues short stroll downhill to
ODEN- 0 GYIDÉN- REHNSGATAN north along the side of t The imposing Kungstornen (King’s Towers) Stureplan, (see pp72–3)
Observatorielunden 9, a leafy
y an open square
PLAN GATAN
q KUNGSTENSGATAN park which hides Stockholm’s on Kungsgatan that is the centre of
OBSERVATORIE- Rådmans- former observatory dating Stockholm’s vibrant
LUNDEN gatan from 1753. At the end Stockholm’s main squares, nightlife and a popular
RÅDMANSGATAN
9 e DÖBELNSGATAN ERIKSBERGS- of the road you’ll Odenplan 0, a large open meeting place.
VEGAGATAN
NORRTULLSGATAN
PARKEN
OBSERVATORIEGATAN LUNTMAKARGATAN TEGNÉRGATAN R U N EBERGS GATAN reach another of area of superb 19th-century
UPPLANDSGATAN
architecture dominated by the
KUNGSTENSGATAN HOLLÄNDARGATAN Rådmans- ERIKSBERGS- Neo-Baroque Gustav Vasa Kyrka
PLAN
(see p119) q. There is a T-bana
gatan
station here if you want to cut
SALTMÄTARGATAN
RÅDMANSGATAN 8 TEGNÉRGATAN r IVERSONSG. the walk short.
JUTAS BACKE
HUMLEGÅRDEN Odenplan to Stureplan
7 From Oden plan, head
TEGNÉR-
LUNDEN S V E A V REGERINGSGATAN east along
6 LUNTMAKARGATAN ENGELBREKTS-
KAMMAKARGATAN DROTTNINGGATAN ADOLF DAVID BAGARES GATA PLAN HUMLEGÅRDSGATAN GREV TUREGATAN Odengatan past
some univer sity
buildings to reach
WALLINGATAN FREDRIKS KYRKOGATA Ä G E N 5 Hötorget BRUNNSGATAN the city library,
OLOF PALMES GATA t KUNGSGATAN STURE- p119) w, designed by
Stadsbib lioteket (see
y
OLOFSGATAN
APELBERGSGATAN Hötorget OXTORGSG. LÄSTMAKARGATAN PLAN Östermalms- widely regarded as one
Gunnar Asplund and
4
KUNGSGATAN 2 3 JAKOBSBERGSGATAN BIBLIOTEKSGATAN torg of Stockholm’s finest q The impressive doorway of the
Functionalist build-
Neo-Baroque Gustav Vasa Kyrka
RIDDARDGATAN
ings. Next, take a
Hötorget MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN NORRLANDSGATAN right into Sveavägen
SMÅLANDSGATAN NYBROGATAN and head south towards Tips for Walkers
SERGELGATAN
Starting point: Sergels Torg is
the prestigious Stockholm
SAMUELSGATAN HAMNGATAN BERZELI NYBRO- School of Economics, easily accessible from Stockholm’s
MÄSTER
PLAN
main T-bana station, T-Centralen.
Handelshögskolan e, where
1
KUNGSTRÄD-
GÅRDEN PARK competition for places is When leaving the platform
T-Centralen simply follow the signs for
extremely fierce.
REGERINGS GATAN
From here turn left into Sergels torg.
Length: 3.5 km (2.2 miles)
Rehnsgatan and walk a short Duration: One and a half hours
distance east before turning
Key right into Döbelnsgatan which, Stopping-off points: For cafés,
try the Kungshallen shopping
Walk route leading south, eventually mall at Hötorget or Kungsgatan
becomes Malmskillnadsgatan. and Stureplan. The Saluhallen
Johannes Kyrka r, a 19th- indoor market in Hötorget is
century Neo-Gothic church set the best place in Stockholm
in a small park, can be seen on for ethnic treats and delicious
0 metres 300
your left. The wooden steeple, Middle Eastern snacks.
0 yards 300 which stands next to it was
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142-143_EW_Stockholm.indd 142 19/09/17 12:01 pm
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Date 5th December 2012
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EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM  143

EXCURSIONS FROM

STOCKHOLM


Stockholm’s strategic location between the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren
provides the backdrop for a range of excursions that offer an insight into
Swedish life and history. To the east lies the beautiful archipelago with its
24,000 islands and skerries. To the west are the more sheltered beaches and
islands of Mälaren with a cultural heritage stretching back to the time of the
Vikings and before.

The wide stretches of water to the east Around Lake Mälaren’s shores are many
and west of Stockholm are markedly other majestic palaces, elegant manor
different, in terms of both their natural houses and small historic towns like
environ ment and history. The Vikings and Mariefred, which was established in the
their ancestors headed west from the early 17th century and has retained its
capital towards the present-day Lake old-time character ever since. It is home
Mälaren for defensive reasons, before the to Sweden’s National Portrait Gallery.
gradual rising of the land transformed To the east of the city, the rising of the
what was once a Baltic inlet into a land since the Ice Age has provided a
freshwater lake. largely untouched archipelago with over
Sweden’s first town, Birka, was founded 24,000 islands, rocks and skerries. The
on the island of Björkö in the 8th scene of many enemy attacks from the
century, but archaeological finds sea, the archipelago lacks the cultural
indicate that people have been using treasures that characterize Mälaren, but
this area for trading with other countries it does boast plenty of splendid natural
since the 6th century. Evidence of these scenery. The boat trip from Nybrokajen
early residents can be found on Björkö or Slussen to the leafy Fjäderholmarna
to this day. Along with the royal palace islands takes about half an hour, but a full
of Drottningholm, on nearby Lovön, day should be allowed for an excursion to
Birka is included on the list of UNESCO the outer archipelago with its smooth
World Heritage Sites. rocks and wide bays.






















Enjoying the sunny weather in the grounds of Drottningholm Palace
The sun sets behind the bell tower of Stadshuset in Kungsholmen



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144  EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM

Excursions from Stockholm

Stockholm is surrounded by a remarkable
natural landscape which provides an attractive setting for Key
excursions. Idyllic towns, majestic castles and prehistoric Motorway
settlements dot the shores of Mälaren to the west. On the Major road
eastern side are the islands of the archipelago with their Minor road
traditional wooden houses, and cosy hotels and youth Railway
hostels. Annual sailing regattas attract yachting enthusiasts Minor railway
from all over the world. Everything is easily accessible by
scheduled boat services, making the journey itself a
memorable experience.
Uppsala
Märsta
Sigtuna
STENINGE
SLOTT Lindholmen
Rosersberg Karby
Vallentuna
Upplands- N. Ljusterö
Väsby Österåker FINNHAMN
Bro Täby Kyrkby
Kungsängen Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Drottningholms Slott on Lovön in Lake Mälaren Svinninge
Sollentuna Täby Resaro Möja
Bogesunds- GRINDA Möja
Järfälla landet VAXHOLM
Danderyd
Munsö Sundyberg
Adelsö Hässelby MILLESGÅRDEN Lidingö Värmdö
Färingsö Ormingelandet Vindö B ALTIC
MÄLAREN Lovön FJÄDERHOLMARNA Värmdö- SEA
landet
Stenhamra Djurö
BIRKA Stockholm Gustavsberg Skeppdalstrom
Björkö DROTTNINGHOLM Nacka Boo Stavsnäs SANDHAMN
Hägersten Brunn Sandön
Ekerö Enskede Runmarö
Ekerö Älvsjö Saltsjöbaden Fågelbrolandet
Ålta
Örebro Tyresö Ingarö
MARIEFRED Ekeby Botkyrka
Huddinge
Skogås Brevik
Salem
Nämndö
Tullinge
Södertälje Rönninge Tumba
Nykvarn
Handen
0 kilometres 10
Jordbro
0 miles 7 Norrköping Dalarö
Västerhaninge
Getting There
All the excursion destinations on this map Tungelsta Gålö
can be reached in summer by scheduled
boat services from Stockholm’s city centre. Ornö
Those on Lake Mälaren are operated by Sights at a Glance
Strömma Kanalbolaget or Gripsholms- 1 Drottningholm pp146–9 7 Vaxholm
Mariefreds Ångfartygs AB. Most of those in
the archipelago are operated by Wax- 2 Birka 8 Grinda Mysingen
holmsbolaget (see p204). Other destina tions 3 Mariefred 9 Finnhamn
on the mainland can be reached by car or 4 Steninge Slott 0 Sandhamn
bus, and by train to Mariefred. See also the 5 Millesgården q Utö UTÖ
checklist for individual sights. 6 Fjäderholmarna
For map symbols see back flap
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EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM  145


Excursions by Steamboat
Traditional steamboats are a pictures que
feature on the waters around Stockholm.
Both in the archipelago and on Lake Mälaren
visitors can still enjoy the quiet, calm
atmosphere of a steamboat voyage. One of
the real veterans, SS Blidösund (1911), is
operated by voluntary organizations and
serves mostly the northern archi pelago. Some
routes, for example Stockholm–Mariefred, are
operated partly or completely by steamers.
Most of the other passenger boats from the
early 20th century have been fitted with oil-
Uppsala fired engines but still provide a nostalgic SS Blidösund, one of the oldest in Stockholm’s fleet of renovated
journey back in time. steamboats still in regular service
Märsta
Sigtuna
STENINGE
SLOTT Lindholmen
Rosersberg Karby
Vallentuna
Upplands- N. Ljusterö
Väsby Österåker FINNHAMN
Bro Täby Kyrkby
Kungsängen Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Svinninge
Sollentuna Täby Resaro Möja
Bogesunds- GRINDA Möja
Järfälla landet VAXHOLM
Danderyd
Munsö Sundyberg
Adelsö Hässelby MILLESGÅRDEN Lidingö Värmdö
Färingsö Ormingelandet Vindö BALTIC
MÄLAREN Lovön FJÄDERHOLMARNA Värmdö- SEA
landet
Stenhamra Djurö
BIRKA Stockholm Gustavsberg Skeppdalstrom
Björkö DROTTNINGHOLM Nacka Boo Stavsnäs SANDHAMN
Hägersten Brunn Sandön
Ekerö Enskede Runmarö
Ekerö Älvsjö Saltsjöbaden Fågelbrolandet
Ålta
Örebro Tyresö Ingarö
MARIEFRED Ekeby Botkyrka
Huddinge
Skogås Brevik
Salem
Nämndö
Tullinge
Södertälje Rönninge Tumba
Nykvarn
Handen
Jordbro
Norrköping Dalarö
Västerhaninge
Tungelsta
Gålö
Ornö
Mysingen

UTÖ
Huvudskär in Stockholm’s outer archipelago




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146  EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM

1 Drottningholm

With its palace, theatre, park and Chinese Pavilion, the whole
of Drottningholm has been included in UNESCO’s World
Heritage list. The royal palace on the island of Lovön
emerged in its present form towards the end of the 17th
century, and was one of the most lavish buildings of its era.
Contemporary Italian and French architecture inspired
Tessin the Elder (1615–81) in his design, which was also
intended to glorify royal power. The project was completed
by Tessin the Younger, while 18th-century architects like Carl
Hårleman and Jean Eric Rehn put the finishing touches to Baroque Garden
the interiors. The Royal Family uses part of the palace as its The bronze statue of Hercules
private residence. (1620s) by the Dutch Renais sance
sculptor Adrian de Vries adorns
the parterre in the palace’s
Baroque Gardens.











The Upper South
Bodyguard Room
This ante-room to the State
Room, used for ceremonial
occasions, was decorated
with stucco works by
Giovanni and Carlo Carove,
and ceiling paintings by
Johan Sylvius.











KEY
1 Apartments of the Royal Family
2 Writing Table by Georg Haupt
in the Queen’s Room is a masterpiece
(1770) commissioned by King Adolf
Fredrik as a gift to Queen Lovisa
Ulrika. Textiles for the walls and
furnishings date from the 1970s.
3 The Palace Church in the
northern cupola was com pleted by
Hårleman in the 1720s.






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DRO T TNINGHOLM  147


. Queen lovisa Visitors’ CheCklist
Ulrika’s library
The Queen commis- Practical Information
sioned Jean Eric Rehn 10 km (6 miles) W of Stockholm.
(1717–93) to decorate Palace: tel 08-402 62 70.
this splendid library, ∑ royalcourt.se
which emphasizes her open Jan–Mar: noon–3:30pm Sat
influence on art and & Sun; Apr: 11am–3:30pm daily;
science in Sweden in May–Sep: 10am–4:30pm daily;
the 18th-century. Oct: 11am–3:30pm Fri–Sun; Nov–
Dec: noon–3:30pm Sat & Sun.
Closed public hols. 8 & ^
= Chinese Pavilion: open May–
Aug: 11am–4:30pm daily; Sep:
noon–3:30pm daily. 8 & ^
Theatre Museum: tel 08-759 04
06. open May–Sep. 8 &
Transport
 Brommaplan, then bus 176,
177, 301, 323.g May–Sep fr
Stads husbron.












Entrance














. Queen hedvig
eleonora’s state Bedroom
Morning receptions
(“levées”) were held in
this lavish Baroque
room designed by Tessin
the Elder. It took about 15
years for Sweden’s foremost
artists and craftsmen to
. the staircase decorate the room, which
Trompe l’oeil paint- was completed in 1683.
ings by Johan Sylvius
adorn the walls, giving
the impression that
the already spacious
interior stretches
further into the palace.




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148  EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM

Exploring Drottningholm

The Palace of Drottningholm is complemented by the Court
Theatre (Slottsteatern), the world’s oldest theatre still in active
use, the Theatre Museum (Teatermuseum) and the elegant
Chinese Pavilion (Kina Slott). The complex is situated on the
shores of Lake Mälaren, surrounded by Baroque and Rococo
gardens, and lush English-style parkland. In summer the
theatre stages opera and ballet; and the church is used for
High Mass and concerts.
Karl XI’s gallery at Drottningholm, featuring
the victory at Lund, 1667
Drottningholm Palace Area
staircase linking the two floors.
The “bureau” opposite the tiled
stove is also a sofa bed. The
Stockholm Oscar Room was refurbished by
Oscar I (1799–1859) and is
adorned by a tapestry dating
from the 1630s. After the
General’s Room, Karl XI’s Gallery
– which commemorates the
victory at Lund (1667) – and the
Sights Golden Salon, comes the
Queen’s Salon. Just as the
1 Palace adjoining State Room had
2 Chinese Pavilion portraits of all the European
0 metres 250 3 Palace Park monarchs, the portraits in the
4 Court Theatre and
0 yards 250 Queen’s Salon were of European
Theatre Museum queens. This floor finishes with
the Upper South Bodyguard
the Swedish army in 1658. Room, an anteroom to the State
The Palace Apartments Queen Hedvig Eleonora (1636– Room and lavishly decorated by
On entering the apartments, 1715) held audiences in the the Carove stucco artists and
the first thing that meets the Ehrenstrahl Salon, named after the ceiling painter Johan Sylvius.
eye is a Baroque corridor with a the artist whose paintings
view that frames part of the dominate the walls. More
gardens, in all their splendour. prominent guests were The Chinese Pavilion
The central part of the palace is received in the State Bedroom. On her 33rd birthday in 1753
dominated by the In Queen Lovisa Ulrika’s Queen Lovisa Ulrika was given a
staircase, crowned by a time this room was Chinese pavilion by her husband,
lantern with ceiling used for sleeping. Her King Adolf Fredrik. It had been
paintings by Meissen porcelain can manu factured in Stockholm
Ehrenstrahl. There are be seen in the Blue and the previous night it was
examples of Baroque Cabinet; the Library has shipped to Drottningholm
stucco work by her collection of more and assem bled a few hundred
Giovanni and Carlo Medallion showing than 2,000 books. metres from the palace. It had
Carove. Marble life and death Behind the Upper to be taken down after 10 years
statues of the nine Northern Guards be cause rot had set in, and was
muses and their pro tector, Room with a ceiling by Johan replaced by the Chinese Pavi lion
Apollo, are placed at the corners Sylvius is a Gustavian drawing
of the balustrades. room, with a bureau by Johan
The Green Salon is reached Niklas Eckstein. In 1777,
from the lower vestibule via the following Gustav III’s
Lower Northern Bodyguard assumption of power, the Blue
Room. This is the beginning of Salon was decorated in the
the main ceremonial suite, Neo-Classical style.
which continues with Karl X’s The Chinese Salon was used
Gallery where paintings as a private bedroom by King
illustrate his major military Adolf Fredrik. It is directly
exploit, the crossing of the ice above the Queen’s State The Chinese Pavilion, an extravaganza
in the Store Bælt (Great Belt) by Bedroom and there is a hidden in red and gold




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