(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Stockholm

DRO T TNINGHOLM  149


(Kina Slott) which is still one (1560–1626) were war
of the major attractions at trophies from Prague in
Drottningholm. The polished- 1648 and from Fredriks-
tile building was designed by borg Castle in Denmark
C F Adelcrantz (1716–96). in 1659.
At this time there was great The avenues of
European interest in all things chestnut trees were
Chinese. In 1733 the newly laid out when the
formed East India Company Chinese Pavilion was
made its first journey to China. completed, as well as
After Lovisa Ulrika’s death in the Rococo-inspired
1782 this interest waned, but it garden area – a cross
was rekindled in the 1840s. The between the formal The magnificent 18th-century stage in the
Chinese Pavilion is a mixture of main garden and the Drottningholm Court Theatre
what was consider ed 250 years freer composition of
ago to be typical Chinese style the English park. The Ulrika, but Adelcrantz did not
along with artifacts English park has have the same resour ces as the
from China and natural paths and a architects of the palace itself.
Japan. Efforts have stream with small This simple wooden building
been made to islands, along with with a plaster façade is now the
restore the interior trees and bushes at world’s oldest theatre still
to its original state “natural” irregular preserved in its original
with the help of a intervals. Gustav III is condition. The interior and
1777 inventory. reputed to have fittings are master pieces of
Four smaller been respon sible for simple functionality. The
pavilions belong to its design and also pilasters, for example, are
the building. In the planned several made from gypsum and the
north-eastern buildings. Not all his supports from papier maché.
pavilion the king plans were realized, The scenery, with its wooden
had his lathe and a but he added four hand-driven machinery, is still
carpenter’s bench. statues which he in working order.
Alongside is the had bought during After Gustav III’s death in 1792
Confidencen Tiled stove in a cabinet his travels in Italy. the theatre fell into disuse until
pavilion, where in the Chinese Pavilion The first 300 of a the 1920s, when the machinery
meals were taken if total of 846 lime ropes were replaced, electric
he wished to be left trees were planted in the lighting was installed, and the
undisturbed. The food was avenues flanking the Baroque original wings were refurbished.
prepared in the basement, garden as early as 1684. The scenery is adapted to
the floor opened and the 18th-century plays. It can be
dining table hauled up. The The Court Theatre and changed in just a few seconds
adjoining Turkish-style “watch with the help of up to 30 scene-
tent” was built as a barracks for Theatre Museum shifters. The sound effects are
Gustav III’s dragoons. The designer of the Chinese simple but authen tic: a wooden
Pavilion, Carl Fredrik Adel crantz, box filled with stones creates
was also responsible for the realistic thunder, a wooden
The Palace Park
Drottningholm Court Theatre cylinder covered in tent cloth
The palace’s three gardens are (Slottsteatern), which dates produces a howling wind. Every
each of a completely different from 1766. The theatre was summer there are about 30
character but still combine to commissioned by Queen Lovisa performances, mainly opera and
provide a unified whole. The ballet from the 18th century.
symmetrical formal garden The theatre is open daily for
started to take shape in 1640. visitors to the palace.
The garden was designed to A Theatre Museum and shop
stimulate all senses with sights, are housed in Duke Carl’s
sounds and smells. It starts by pavilion, built in the 1780s.
the palace terrace with its The museum focuses on
“embroi dery” parterre and 18th-century theatre, with
continues as far as the Hercules decoration sketches, pain tings,
statue. The water parterre is scenery models and costumes.
situated on slightly higher A Commedia dell’arte room
ground and is broken up with contains paintings by Pehr
waterfalls and topiaries. The Hilleström and sketches for
sculptures, mainly carved by the Court Theatre stage machinery: the world’s Gustav III’s dramatic productions
Flemish sculptor Adrian de Vries oldest still in use by Louis Jean Desprez.




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150  EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM


2 Birka
30 km (19 miles) W of Stockholm.
g May–Sep from Stadshusbron.
Birkamuseet: Tel 08-560 515 40.
Open hours vary, check website.
8 of exhibitions and excavations.
= - 0 ∑ raa.se/birka
The first town in Scandinavia
was called Birka, on the island
of Björkö in Lake Mälaren. It
was founded in the 8th century
by the king of Svea who then
reigned over the central parts
of present-day Sweden. His The 16th-century Gripsholms Slott just outside Mariefred
royal residence was on the
nearby island of Adelsö. About Sigtuna, 15 km (9 miles) to the 3 Mariefred
100 years later a contemporary north, which is now Sweden’s 65 km (40 miles) W of Stockholm.
writer gave the town this oldest town. Tel 0159–231 60. g summer from
description: “In Birka there are Today Björkö is a flourish ing Stadshusbron. £ from Central-
many rich mer chants and an island with gardens and stationen to Läggesta, then bus.
abundance of all types of goods, juniper-covered slopes. Gripsholms Slott: Open 15 May–Sep:
money and valuable items.” But, most importantly, it 10am–4pm daily; Oct & Nov: noon–
It was not a large town. There is a popular excursion desti- 3pm Sat & Sun.
were only about 700 inhabi- nation with a fascinating
tants, but they included museum and con tinuing Mariefred should ideally
craftsmen, whose work archaeo logical digs. be approached from the
attracted merchants from During the early 1990s water to get the best view of
distant countries. these excavations the magnificent Gripsholms
The town was provided a lot of Slott in all its splendour. The
planned on simple new information first fortress on this site was
lines. People lived about Birka and built in the 1380s by the Lord
in modest houses, the Vikings. Since High Chancellor, Bo Jonsson
which stood in rows then, work has Grip, who gave the castle its
overlooking the jetties continued around the name. Work on the present
where ships were old fortifi cations, building, initiated by King
moored. These vessels Birka crucifix revealing much about Gustav Vasa, started in 1537
were used by the king’s the town’s defences and but parts have been rebuilt
warriors, the Vikings, for the life of its inhabitants. The or added – most notably
their marauding expeditions. museum shows how Birka during the time of Gustav III
In 830 a monk named Ansgar looked in its heyday, along in the late 18th century. It was
came to Birka, bringing the with some of the archaeolo- during this period that the
Christian faith to Sweden. gical finds. Visitors can also see National Portrait Gallery was
In the 10th century Birka was freshly dug artifacts while established. It now contains
abandoned in favour of excavations are in progress. more than 4,000 portraits
and covers some 500 years of
artistic endeavour, from the
time of Gustav Vasa to the
present day. It also has a
collection of notable foreign
portraits, which are shown
in a separate section.
Gripsholms Slott’s well-
preserved interiors feature a
wide collection of furniture,
art and handicrafts. There are
about 60 rooms. Highlights
include Gustav III’s late
18th-century theatre and
the White Salon which is
also from the same era.
The town of Mariefred, in the
shadow of the castle, derives its
Iron Age burial ground at Birka on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren name from a late 15th-century




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EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM  151


monastery, the Younger (see p39) and was
Monasterium Pacis designed a decade before he
Mariae. It received started on Stockholm’s Royal
its charter as a Palace. The roof is that of a
town in 1605, and traditional Swedish manor house
an inn has stood of the time, but other wise the
on the site of the design is influenced by Tessin’s
monastery since studies, mainly in Italy and
the early 17th France. The result is an Italianate
century. The palace in a rural Swedish setting,
elegantly restored which Carl Gyllenstierna gave to
and rebuilt his wife Anna Soop as a wedding
restaurant is an gift in 1706. Since then Steninge
attraction in itself. has had several owners, the best
Visitors to known of whom was Count Axel
Mariefred can von Fersen, reputed to have
stroll through the been the lover of the French
town and admire Duke Karl’s bedchamber, Gripsholms Slott Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–
the 17th-century 93). The park, planned by the
church and the 18th-century classic “steamboat beef” is on landscape architect Johan
Rådhus (law courts’ building), offer along the way. For the Hårleman, has a monument of
which also houses the local return journey, a vintage steam Count von Fersen.
Tourist Information Office. railway runs from Mariefred to In 1999 the estate was
There are a number of specialist Läggesta (a 40-minute journey) transformed into a cultural
shops, galleries and an excellent from where it is possible to centre. The biggest attraction is
antiques shop. catch an express train back to the elegant Baroque palace. The
The vintage railway attracts Stockholm (30 minutes). staircase has similarities to its
visitors of all ages. Those counterpart at the Royal Palace
interested in art should head (see p50) and elsewhere there are
for Grafikens Hus (House of 4 Steninge Slott details, which can also be seen in
Graphics) on a hill leading 40 km (25 miles) N of Stockholm. Tessinska Palatset (see p54). The
up to the former royal farm, Tel 08-592 595 00. g summer from oval hall is a masterpiece of
where stables and haylofts Stadshusbron to Rosersberg and Swedish Baroque, decorated by
have been converted into connecting bus. Slottsgalleria: Open the Italian stucco artist Giuseppe
an exhibition area. 11am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Marchi. It regained its original
The excursion can be made Sat & Sun. Palace: Open 11am–2pm splendour as part of restoration
into a varied round trip. From Sat, 11am–3pm Sun; Jun–Aug: 11am– work in the early 20th century,
Stockholm to Mariefred one 4pm daily. 8 call for tour information. planned by the architect
can travel on Sweden’s oldest = - ∑ steningeslott.com G Clason. At the same time Julius
steamboat service, dating from Kronberg contributed paintings
1832. The steamboat Marie fred, South-east of Sigtuna, Sweden’s on the door lintels and ceilings.
which has operated on the oldest town, and only 10 A 19th-century stone barn
route since 1903, travels at 6–7 minutes from Arlanda Airport is houses the Slottsgalleria
knots and the journey takes Steninge Slott, one of the gems with glassworks, pottery,
about three and a half hours. of Lake Mälaren. The palace ranks candle-making, and a shop
Beautiful scenery and a lunch of among the finest works of Tessin and restaurant.

















Steninge Palace, one of the most perfect examples of late 17th-century manor house design




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152  EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM


the third that explores the
history of Vodka in Sweden
and its growing popularity.
Various handicrafts are
practised on the island,
including metalwork, weaving,
textile printing, wood-carving,
pot tery and glassmaking. There
is also an art gallery and an
outdoor theatre that, during the
summer months, hosts popular
theatre weeks for children.
The other three islands are
especially rich with bird-life,
and one of them, Libertas, has
Millesgården, home of the sculptor Carl Milles in the early 20th century Sweden’s last remaining gas-
powered lighthouse.
5 Millesgården 6 Fjäderholmarna
Herserudsvägen 30, Lidingö. 6 km (4 miles) E of Stockholm.
 Subway to Ropsten, then bus @ 53. g May–Sep from Nybrokajen
to Torsviks Torg, then follow the signs and Slussen.
to Millesgården. Tel 08-446 75 90.
Open May–Sep: 11am–5pm daily; With the inclusion of the
Oct–Apr: noon–5pm Tue–Sun. Fjäderholmarna islands in the
8 by appointment. 7 & - = Royal National City Park (see
∑ millesgarden.se p123) the city’s “green lung” has
ac quired a small part of the
Carl Milles (1875–1955) was one archipelago. The main island, Vaxholm Fortress, strategically sited on the
of the 20th century’s greatest Stora Fjäderholmen, is only a approach to Vaxholm
Swedish sculptors and the best 25-minute boat journey from
known interna tionally. From Nybrokajen or Slussen. 7 Vaxholm
1931 he lived for 20 years in the The island already boasted 25 km (16 miles) NE of Stockholm.
USA, where he became a prolific an inn in the 17th century, @ 670. g from Strömkajen and
monumental sculptor with conveniently sited for the Nybrokajen. Vaxholm Fortress and
works such as the Meeting of the archipelago islanders on their Vaxholm Fortress Museum: Tel 08-541
Waters fountain in St Louis and way to and from the city to 718 90. Open Jun: 12:15pm– 4pm
the Resurrection fountain in the sell their wares. The inn was daily; Jul–Aug: 12:15pm–5pm daily. &
National Memorial Park outside closed during World War II, ∑ vaxholm.se
Washington DC. In Stockholm when the area was taken over
visitors can see 15 of his public by the military, and landing The archipelago’s main
works, including the Orpheus was forbidden. community, Vaxholm, has been
fountain in front of Access to the public was a strategic point for shipping
Konserthuset (see p70). restored in the mid-1980s, since the 19th century. It is easily
In 1906 Milles bought land and the main island now offers reached by boat from Stockholm
on the island of Lidingö, on an attractive harbour, three on a delightful one-hour journey
which he built a house, restaurants and an ice-cream through the inner archipelago.
com pleted in 1908. He lived parlour as well as a tour of the Vaxholm has been inhabited
here with his wife until 1931, country’s first whisky distil lery, since the 16th century. In 1548
and also after his return from Mackmyra Distillery. There are Gustav Vasa ordered that the
the USA. In 1936 he and his also three museums, two of nearby island of Vaxholmen
wife donated the property to which are devoted to traditional should be fortified. Some 300
the Swedish people. and recreational boating and years later a new fortress was
Millesgården built here, but it soon lost its
covers 18,000 sq m military importance and was
(194,000 sq ft) in a used as a civil prison. Today the
series of terraces imposing citadel houses an
and in cludes Milles’ interesting military museum.
studios with originals Two of Stockholm’s best-
and replicas of his known architects have left
work. It has a magni- their mark on Vaxholm town.
ficent garden – a The 100-year-old law-courts’
real work of art in building was given its present
itself – and a fine The Fjäderholmarna islands – a popular summer excursion appearance in 1925 by Cyrillus
view over the water. just 25 minutes by boat from the city Johansson. On the headland




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EX CURSIONS FROM ST OCKHOLM  153


nearest to the harbour is a
rather stately hotel designed
in 1899 by Erik Lallerstedt,
and traces of its Jugendstil
ornamen tation can still be seen.
The wooden buildings
around the square and along
Hamngatan with their souvenir
shops provide a pleasant stroll,
and the harbour is always busy.

8 Grinda
30 km (19 miles) E of Stockholm. Sandhamn, a yachting centre in Stockholm’s outer archipelago
Tel 08-542 494 91. @ 670 from
Stockholm Östra station to Vaxholm, 0 Sandhamn
then boat. g from Strömkajen and heritage building. A customs
Nybrokajen. 0 (summer only). S 50 km (31 miles) E of Stockholm. inspector who worked here,
∑ grinda.se Tel 08-570 470 00. @ 433, 434 Elias Sehlstedt (1808–74), made
from Slussen to Stavsnäs, then boat. his name as a poet and artist.
Grinda is a leafy island, typical g from Strömkajen and Nybrokajen. Sandhamn has shops,
of the inner archi pelago. It has = 0 ∑ destinationsandhamn.se handicraft centres, and a
some excellent beaches and swimming pool. Guided tours
rocks for swim ming, as well as Over the past 200 years Sand- can be arranged. Camping is
good fishing. Boats and bicycles hamn, on Sandön, has been a not permitted, but hotel, bed-
can be hired, making it an ideal meeting point for sailors, par- and-breakfast and chalet
place to visit while exploring ticularly yachting enthusiasts. accommodation is available.
the archipelago. It takes about The Royal Swedish Yacht Club
one and a half hours by boat has been based at Seglarrest-
from the city. aur angen (Sailors’ Restaurant) q Utö
The architect Ernst Sten- for more than 100 years. Every 50 km (31 miles) SE of Stockholm.
hammar (1859–1927), who year the world’s yachting elite Tel 08-501 574 10. g in summer,
designed the Grand Hôtel (see flock to Sandhamn to take part from Strömkajen. = 0
p81), built a large Jugendstil villa in the Round Gotland Race. ∑ utoturistbyra.se
here, which is now a restaurant Once a pilot station, Sand-
and pub and has guest rooms. hamn is a charming village No other island in the
There are chalets for rental, a with narrow alleys and houses archipelago has as rich a history
campsite and a youth hostel adorned with decorative carv ings. as Utö, which was inhabited
in a former military barracks. There are now about 100 perma- before the Viking era. In the
nent residents. The Customs 12th century the islanders
House, built in 1752, is a listed started to mine iron ore, and
9 Finnhamn this activity con tinued until
1879. Their story is told in the
40 km (25 miles) NE of Stockholm.
Tel 08-542 462 12. g from Mining Museum adjoining the
Strömkajen and Nybrokajen. = 0 hotel. Today’s holiday homes
along Lurgatan were built as
Finnish ships used to moor at miners’ cottages in the 18th
Finnhamn on their way to and century. A wind mill, built in
from Stockholm. This attractive 1791, provides an unrivalled
group of islands lies two and a view of the island.
half hours by boat from the city Utö is one of the best sea side
at the point where the softer resorts in the Stockholm area,
scenery of the inner archipelago and is ideal for a week end or
gives way to the harsher full-day excursion. Its facilities
landscape of the outer islands. include a variety of restaurants.
As on Grinda, the main island The hotel’s restaurant is sited in
has a wooden villa designed the old mine offices.
by Ernst Stenhammar (1912). Hotel, youth hostel, camping,
Today it is the largest youth chalet and bed-and-breakfast
hostel in the archipelago. accommodation are all
There is a restaurant, chalets available. Bicycles, rowing boats
for rental and a campsite. and canoes can be hired, and
Smaller islands nearby are Smooth rock formations at Utö in the there are also regular fishing
accessible by rowing boat. southern archipelago trips and archipelago safaris.




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TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 156–161

Where to Eat and Drink 162–173
Entertainment in
Stockholm 174–179

Outdoor Activities 180–181
Shopping in Stockholm 182–187













































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156  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY


Stockholm’s hotel scene revolves around In Stockholm, luxury is most often
Blasieholmen, where the Grand Hôtel offers understated, characterized by simple yet
accommodation that is just as princely as elegant modern design. Hotels offer high
the Royal Palace, on the opposite side of levels of comfort and service and often have
Norrström. Only a short distance away is magnificent views or locations. The listings
af Chapman, a ship that is home to one of on pages 158–61 cover a wide range of
the world’s most beautiful youth hostels. accommodation options.

How to Book high-standard room-and-
You can easily make a reserv- breakfast hotel. It also has
ation at the Stockholm Visitor a Clarion hotel near Arlanda
Centre. Staff can also offer and three conference hotels
tips and advice about lodging in the “Quality” category.
options for all tastes and The environmentally
budgets. Hotel reservations conscious Scandinavian
can also be made directly with chain First Hotels has three
the hotel, either over the categories: First Hotel, First
telephone or, in most cases, Express and First Resort. There
online. Web addresses for the are three First Hotels in the city
larger hotel chains’ reser vation centre and three First Express
centres are listed opposite. properties outside the city.
Elite Hotels has six classic
hotels located throughout
Hotel Chains
Stockholm, each with its own
Exterior of the imposing and elegant Several international and unique style. Three of the
Diplomat hotel (see p159) national chains have hotels in hotels are within a 15-minute
Stockholm. Scandic Hotels, walk of the city centre.
Choosing a Hotel
with over 230 establish ments, is The Collector’s Hotels is
Although most of Stockholm’s the leading Scand inavian chain, a group of three small and
hotels are mid-range to known for its environmen tally exclusive hotels located in
expensive, the city also has friendly policies. It has eight Gamla Stan – Victory, Lord
perfectly acceptable budget hotels in the city and six Nelson and Lady Hamilton
accommodation. The cheapest outside, in cluding two on (see p159) – all of which have
alternative is offered by the the way to Arlanda Airport. artistic and maritime decor.
dozen or so youth hostels, most Radisson Blu has three
of which have high standards. large, luxurious hotels in Prices and Payment
Other value-for-money options central Stockholm and
include the many bed-and- two at Arlanda Airport. Prices in the hotel listings
breakfast (B&B) establishments. Nordic Choice Hotels has two are for a standard double
Stockholm has become one hotels in Stockholm under the room, including service
of the world’s most popular “Comfort” banner, indicating a charges and taxes. All hotels
cities for conferences, so offer rooms at much reduced
occupancy at the city’s hotels rates at week ends throughout
is high – around 80 per the year and daily in the
cent – between May and summer. For the cheaper
November, but much lower hotels, this involves a price
in July. Most of the locals reduction of 100–300 kr per
head out to the countryside night; for medium-priced
to soak in the summer sun hotels about 500 kr; and for
during this period. Visitors deluxe hotels up to 1,000 kr.
are strongly advised to book Nearly all hotels accept
hotel accommodation well major credit cards; however,
in advance. American Express is less
It is best to avoid the peak commonly accepted in
season for trade fairs and smaller establishments.
events such as the Stockholm Larger hotels usually help
Marathon in June. The in changing foreign currency,
Stockholm Visitor Centre but the cheapest way of
website is useful for finding out Smart seating area at the ultra-chic Scandic changing money is to use a
when the busiest periods are. Malmen hotel (see p161) bureau de change (see p194).
Menu scribbled on a blackboard outside a café in Stockholm



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WHERE T O ST A Y  157

Recommended Hotels
The lodging options in this guide
have been chosen across a wide
price range for excellent facilities
and good location. All are listed
by type, and then grouped by
area, then price. Choose from
basic, budget hotels and hostels;
places with striking design
features; historic buildings; luxury
hotels with all kinds of opulence;
and modern boutique hotels.
The places highlighted as DK
Choice have been chosen in
recognition of an exceptional
Stately decor of the Bernadotte suite, Grand Hôtel (see p160) feature – a stunning location,
notable history, inviting atmo­
Youth Hostels Bed & Breakfast
sphere or outstanding value.
There are more than 35 youth B&B accommodation is widely Most are extremely popular, so
hostels in Stockholm, the four available in central Stockholm be sure to book well in advance.
largest of which are affiliated to and the suburbs, as well as the
the Swedish Touring Club (STF/ archipelago. There is usually a DIRECTORY
IYHF). Apart from the city’s flag­ choice between a single room,
ship floating hostel, af Chapman double room and a whole Central Booking
(see p159), there are two more apartment. Breakfast is normally Stockholm Visitor Centre
moored right in the city centre: included in the price – apart Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 3.
MS Rygerfjord and Den Röda from apartments, where self­ Map 2 C4. Tel 08­508 285 08.
Båten at Södermälar strand. catering is the rule; bed linen
These have about 100 beds and hand towels are always Visit Stockholm
each, as well as fully licensed included. B&B prices range from ∑ visitstockholm.com
res taurants and superb views. 400 kr to 600 kr per person per Hotel Chains
The standard of Stockholm’s night. A double room costs
youth hostels is generally high. 500–750 kr, while an apartment, The Collector’s Hotels
Prices are around 300 kr per which often has to be rented for Tel 08­506 400 01.
night in a double room, with a at least four or five days, costs ∑ thecollectorshotels.se
discount of about 50 kr for STF from around 700 kr per night. Elite Hotels
members, but they come down Most B&Bs can be booked Tel 0771­788 789.
to about 150 kr – sometimes in advance through a number ∑ elite.se
even less – in a larger room or of agencies, such as Stockholm First Hotels
dormitory. Prices usually exclude Guesthouse and Bed & Tel 08­442 84 00.
breakfast and bed­linen hire. Breakfast Sweden; you can ∑ firsthotels.com
Visit Stockholm can help find the full list on the Visit Nordic Choice Hotels
book accommodation at most Stockholm website. Most Tel 08­691 35 00.
youth hostels at its offices. Some B&Bs offer online booking ∑ nordicchoicehotels.com
hostels do not offer Internet services for guests.
booking, and some hostels are Radisson Blu
Tel 020­238 238.
only open in the summer.
Apartment Rentals ∑ radissonblu.com
Furnished apartments are a Scandic Hotels
good option in Stockhom. They Tel 08­517 517 00.
∑ scandichotels.com
are often cheaper than hotel
rooms and provide more space. Youth Hostels
Sometimes these are flats
whose owners are away or Swedish Touring Club
apartments set up for this (STF/IYHF)
purpose. Apartments generally Tel 08­463 21 00.
∑ svenskaturistforeningen.se
have full kitchens and often
interesting local design, but no Bed & Breakfast
maid service. These lodgings are
available in all neighbourhoods Bed & Breakfast Sweden
and can range from studios to ∑ bedandbreakfast.com
three­bedroom properties. They Stockholm Guesthouse
Cozy cabin at the floating youth hostel, are bookable through agencies ∑ stockholmguesthouse.com
af Chapman (see p159) such as Airbnb.


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158  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Wellingtons Gästvåning  Price Guide
Budget Skeppargatan 27, 114 52 Prices are for a standard double room per
Gamla Stan Tel 08-663 50 70 Map 3 F2 night in high season, inclusive of all taxes.
Breakfast is not included unless specified.
∑ wellington.se
Archipelago Hostel Gamla Stan  A charming hotel in an old  under 1,000 Kr

1,000–2,500 Kr
Stora Nygatan 38, 111 27 school building. Rooms are  over 2,500 Kr
Tel 08-22 92 40 Map 4 B3 spacious. Free Wi-Fi.
∑ archipelagohostel.se Södermalm
Located in the heart of Old Town,
with private rooms, fully equipped Kungsholmen and
kitchens and shared bathrooms. Vasastan DK Choice
Castanea Hostel  2Kronor Hostel Vasastan  Mosebacke Hostel 
Kindstugatan 1, 111 31 Surbrunnsgatan 44, 113 48 Högbergsgatan 26, 116 20
Tel 08-22 35 51 Map 4 C3 Tel 08-22 92 30 Map 2 C2 Tel 08-641 64 60 Map 8 C3
∑ castaneahostel.com ∑ 2kronor.se ∑ mosebackehostel.se
A well-located modern hostel Clean rooms and dorms, but no This modern hostel offers clean
with spacious rooms. Free Wi-Fi. private showers. Big shared single, double and triple rooms
kitchen and common room. with shared facilities; choose
Hotel Gamla Stan  the “VIP room” for extra space,
Skeppsbron 22, 111 30 City Backpackers  private toilet and shower.
Tel 08-411 95 45 Map 4 C3 Upplandsgatan 2, 111 23
∑ hotelgamlastan.se Tel 08-20 69 20 Map 2 A1
Decent waterfront hostel with ∑ citybackpackers.org Tre Små Rum 
dorms and private rooms, as well Hostel with dorms, private rooms Högbergsgatan 81, 118 54
as two fully equipped kitchens. and family rooms, sauna and Tel 08-641 23 71 Map 8 C3
guest kitchen. Tours offered. ∑ tresmarum.se
Old Town Hostel  Comfortable hotel with
Stora Nygatan 22, 111 10 Hotel Micro  a homely atmosphere.
Tel 08-20 77 17 Map 4 B3 Tegnérlunden 8, 113 59 Excellent breakfast included.
∑ old-town-hostel. Tel 08-545 455 69 Map 2 B3
hotelistockholm.com ∑ hotelmicro.se
Four- and six-bed dorms. Great Small, newly decorated rooms in Further Afield
decor; big kitchen and dining area. marine colours. Shared bathrooms ApartHotel Attaché 
are located on the same floor. Cedergrensvägen 16, 126 36
Old Town Lodge  Hägersten
Baggensgatan 25, 111 31 Wasa Park  Tel 08-18 08 85
Tel 08-20 44 55 Map 4 C3 Sankt Eriksplan 1, 113 20 ∑ aparthotel.se
∑ oldtownlodge.se Tel 08-545 453 00 Map 1 C1 A chic, modern hotel with bright,
Rooms are clean but tiny; not all ∑ wasaparkhotel.se airy and well-decorated rooms.
have windows. Bathrooms are Bargain accommodation. Rooms Warm and friendly staff.
shared but immaculately kept. are large and comfortable, some
with private bathrooms.
City Hansson  Design
Crystal Plaza  Surbrunnsgatan 38, 113 48
Birger Jarlsgatan 35, 111 45 Tel 08-15 04 20 Map 2 C2 Gamla Stan
Tel 08-406 88 00 Map 2 C2 ∑ hotelhansson.se Mälardrottningen Yacht Hotel 
∑ crystalplazahotel.se This hotel boasts rooms with Riddarholmskajen, 111 28
Simple rooms, each individually original wooden floors and period Tel 08-120 902 00 Map 4 A2
decorated, in a historic building. furniture. Great on-site restaurant. ∑ malardrottningen.se
Breakfast included. Boat-based hotel with spacious
cabins and a great breakfast.
Queen’s 
Drottninggatan 71a, 113 60 City
Tel 08-24 94 60 Map 4 A1
∑ queenshotel.se Micro 
Rooms are spacious with modern Tegnerlunden 8, 113 59
conveniences. Relaxed Tel 08-545 455 69 Map 2 B3
atmosphere, central location. ∑ hotelmicro.se
Compact but stylish cabin-like
rooms. No windows.
Östermalm and Gärdet
Stureparken  Freys 
Sturegatan 58, 114 36 Bryggargatan 12, 101 31
Tel 08-662 72 30 Map 3 E3 Tel 08-506 213 00 Map 2 C4
∑ stureparkens.nu ∑ freyshotels.com
Small hotel with elegantly Stylish boutique hotel with
furnished rooms and apartments. Logo of the Tre Små Rum hotel Swedish design throughout.
Excellent breakfast. in Södermalm Central location.
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WHERE T O ST A Y  159

Stockholm Inn  Mornington 
Drottninggatan 67, 111 36 Nybrogatan 53, 114 40
Tel 08-411 03 03 Map 4 A1 Tel 08-507 330 00 Map 3 E2
∑ stockholminn.se ∑ mornington.se
This central hostel offers good Individually designed rooms
modern rooms, all of which have with wooden flooring, big beds
en-suite showers. and comfortable sofas.
Berns Hotel  Diplomat 
Näckströmsgatan 8, 111 47 Strandvägen 7C, 114 56
Tel 08-566 322 00 Map 3 D4 Tel 08-459 68 00 Map 3 E4
∑ berns.se ∑ diplomathotel.com
Contemporary rooms in this Lovely waterfront period property
hotel popular with celebrities. with bright, luxurious rooms.
Restaurant and club on site. Enjoy drinks on the terrace.
Blasieholmen and
Skeppsholmen Kungsholmen and
Vasastan
The majestic hostel af Chapman, on a boat
DK Choice M/S Monika  moored across from the Royal Palace
Kungsholms strand 133, 112 33
af Chapman and Tel 08-120 921 00 Map 1 B1
Skeppsholmen  ∑ msmonika.se Further Afield
Flaggmansvägen 8, 111 49 Boat-based hotel with charming Elite Hotel Marina Tower 
Tel 08-463 22 66 Map 5 D3 rooms that preserve many of the Saltsjöqvarns kaj 25, 131 71 Nacka
∑ stfchapman.com ship’s original features. Tel 08-555 702 00
One of the most beautiful ∑ elite.se
youth hostels anywhere in the This red-brick gem is situated
world, offering beds on board a Södermalm right on the water and has a
tall ship permanently moored Den Röda Båten  wide range of spacious rooms.
across from the Royal Palace. It Söder Mälarstrand, Kajplats 10 It is also home to one of
fills up quickly, so reserve well Tel 08-644 43 85 Map 4 A4 Stockholm’s best spas.
in advance. Breakfast included. ∑ theredboat.com
A hotel and hostel spread over
two colourful ships. Only the
Djurgården private rooms have their own Historic
en-suite bathrooms.
Gamla Stan
DK Choice Långholmen Hotel  First Hotel Reisen 
Skeppsbron 12, 111 30
Långholmsmuren 20, 117 33
Scandic Hasselbacken  Tel 08-720 85 00 Map 1 B5 Tel 08-22 32 60 Map 4 C3
Hazeliusbacken 20, 100 55 ∑ langholmen.com ∑ firsthotels.com
Tel 08-517 343 00 Map 6 A3 Unique island accommodation. Charming waterfront hotel in an
∑ scandichotels.com Sleep in a former cell at this 18th-century building. Excellent
Currently the only hotel on converted prison. service and renowned on-site
Djurgården, this beautifully restaurant. Free Wi-Fi.
restored mansion is surrounded Rygerfjord Hotel and Hostel 
by lush woodland. It features Söder Mälarstrand, Lady Hamilton 
contemporary Swedish design Kajplats 12–14, 118 25 Storkyrkobrinken 5, 111 28
with elegant historic and Tel 08-84 08 30 Map 4 A4 Tel 08-506 401 00 Map 4 B3
classical touches. Superb ∑ rygerfjord.se ∑ thecollectorshotels.se
in-house dining served Beautifully restored ship with Classy hotel with gorgeous
on the terrace in summer. good hotel and hostel rooms and excellent service.
accommodation. Shared A unique Ghost Walk is available
bathrooms for hostel guests. for guests.
Östermalm and Gärdet Columbus Loft 
STF Gärdet Hotel and Hostel  Tjärhovsgatan 11, 116 21 DK Choice
Sandhamnsgatan 59, 115 28 Tel 08-503 112 00 Map 9 E3 Sven Vintappare 
Tel 08-463 22 99 ∑ columbusloft.se Sven Vintappares Gränd 3, 111 27
∑ svenskaturistforeningen.se The loft at the Columbus hotel Tel 08-22 41 40 Map 4 B3
Good-value singles, doubles and offers small but stylishly ∑ hotelsvenvintappare.se
twins with fresh decor, located furnished rooms. The centuries-old façade of
within the city national park. this historic Gamla Stan house
Hellstens Malmgård  masks a bright, modern interior.
Clarion Wellington  Brännkyrkagatan 110, 117 26 The wooden floors are a nod
Storgatan 6, 114 51 Tel 08-465 058 00 Map 4 A5 to the past, while a number
Tel 08-667 09 10 Map 3 F3 ∑ hellstensmalmgard.se of original features such as
∑ wellington.se In an elegant mansion, this hotel fireplaces and ceramic heaters
Vibrant rooms with huge has a wide range of rooms, some have been incorporated into
windows and terrific views. of which have original porcelain the modern suites.
Good service. heating stoves from 1770.
For more information on types of hotels see p157
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160  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Lord Nelson  DK Choice Nobis 
Västerlånggatan 22, 111 29 Norrmalmstorg 2–4, 111 86
Tel 08-506 401 20 Map 4 B3 Anno 1647  Tel 08-614 10 00 Map 3 D4
∑ thecollectorshotels.se Mariagränd 3, 116 46 ∑ nobishotel.se
The small rooms in this 17th- Tel 08-442 16 80 Map 4 B5 Elegant decor, marble bath rooms
century building are excellent ∑ anno1647.se and some four-poster beds.
value for money. An ultra-modern hotel in a 1647
building. The rooms are comfor-
Scandic Gamla Stan   table and well appointed. Blasieholmen and
Lilla Nygatan 25, 111 28 Bathrooms, in particular, are Skeppsholmen
Tel 08-723 72 50 Map 4 B3 immaculate. Excellent Swedish
∑ scandichotels.se restaurant and a stylish bar. Radisson Blu Strand 
Stylishly furnished hotel in a Nybrokajen 9, 103 27
17th-century building. Cosy Tel 08-506 640 00 Map 5 D1
rooms, graceful interiors and all NOFO Hotel & Loft  ∑ radissonblu.com
modern amenities. Relax on the Tjärhovsgatan 11, 116 21 Expect the very best at this hotel.
roof terrace in the summer. Tel 08-503 112 00 Map 9 E3 Top-floor sauna with superb views
∑ nofo.se over the rooftops of Stockholm.
Beautiful 1780s building with
City rooms that feature high ceilings Lydmar 
Haymarket by Scandic  and wooden beams. Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, 103 24
Hötorget 13–15, 111 57 Tel 08-22 31 60 Map 4 C2
Tel 08-517 267 00 Map 2 C4 ∑ lydmar.com
∑ scandichotels.com Further Afield An elegant hotel offering under-
A grand entrance welcomes Näsby Slott  stated luxury and cutting-edge
guests to this historic building Djursholmsvägen 30, 183 52 Täby design. Gorgeous bathrooms.
with 405 elegantly decorated Tel 08-544 981 00
rooms, many with terrific views. ∑ nasbyslott.se Östermalm and Gärdet
A stunning lakeside manor house
with a delightful mix of classical
Blasieholmen and and modern decor throughout. DK Choice
Skeppsholmen
Åkeshofs Slott  Villa Källhagan 
Grand Hôtel Stockholm  Åkeshovs Gårdsvägen, 168 39 Brooma Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 10, 115 27
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 111 48 Tel 08-445 80 77 Tel 08-665 03 00 Map 6 B2
Tel 08-679 35 00 Map 4 C2 ∑ akeshofsslott.se ∑ kallhagen.se
∑ grandhotel.se Luxury accommodation in a This modern yet elegant hotel
Home to high-fliers since 1874, 17th-century castle with stylish has rooms that are enormous
this luxurious hotel features an rooms and excellent service. and luxuriously furnished. All of
amazing underground spa. the stunning bathrooms have a
skylight. Some rooms even offer
Östermalm and Gärdet Luxury direct access to the lush gardens.
The on-site restaurant is great.
Esplanade  City
Strandvägen 7a, 114 56
Tel 08-663 07 40 Map 3 E4 Sheraton Stockholm 
∑ hotelesplanade.se Tegelbacken 6, 101 23 Södermalm
Cosy interiors behind a majestic Tel 08-412 34 00 Map 4 A2 Hilton Stockholm Slussen 
Art Nouveau façade. The ∑ sheratonstockholm.com Guldgränd 8, 104 65
Esplanade offers old-fashioned Outstanding hotel with elegantly Tel 08-517 353 11 Map 4 B5
attention to detail in every aspect. decorated rooms and sweeping ∑ www3.hilton.com
views. Excellent on-site dining. Seafront hotel offering typically
luxurious Hilton accommodation.
Kungsholmen and Good spa services available.
Vasastan
Elite Palace Hotel  Further Afield
Sankt Eriksgatan 115, 113 43
Tel 08-566 217 00 Map 1 C1 DK Choice
∑ elite.se
Large, comfortable hotel with Hotel J 
three- and four-bed rooms. Ellensviksvägen 1, 131 27 Nacka
Excellent gym and spa facilities. Strand
Tel 08-601 30 00
∑ hotelj.com
Södermalm A 15-minute sail from the city
Hornsgatan  center, this beachfron hotel has
Hornsgatan 66B, 118 21 spacious rooms with sea views
Tel 08-658 29 01 Map 4 A5 and simple whitewashed oak
∑ hotelhornsgatan.se furnishings. Popular on-site
Big, bright rooms in a converted restaurant with marine brasserie
1905 residential building. Great Colourful room with wooden flooring at fare. Hotel spa.
buffet breakfast. Friendly service. the Hornsgatan hotel
Key to Price Guide see p158
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WHERE T O ST A Y  161

Scandic Park 
Karlavägen 43, 102 46
Tel 08-51 73 48 00 Map 2 C2
∑ scandichotels.com
Enjoy stunning views from
most of the spacious, gracefully
decorated rooms here. Excellent
value for money.
Kungsholmen and
Vasastan
First Hotel Norrtull 
Sleek and classy room decor at the Hilton Stockholm Slussen, Södermalm Sankt Eriksgatan 119, 113 43
Tel 08-30 03 50 Map 1 C1
Modern interlinking rooms, creative ∑ firsthotels.com
spaces and an on-site Campfire
A converted listed building with
restaurant. Minimalist design. elegant rooms, some with
City exposed original brickwork.
Comfort Hotel Stockholm  DK Choice
Kungsbron 1, 111 22 DK Choice
Tel 08-56 62 22 00 Map 2 B4 Tegnérlunden 
∑ nordicchoicehotels.com Tegnérlunden 8, 113 59 Courtyard by Marriott 
A business hotel close to the Tel 08-54 54 55 50 Map 2 B3 Rålambshovsleden 50, 112 19
train station. Friendly service. ∑ hoteltegnerlunden.se Tel 08-441 31 00 Map 1 B3
Enjoy minimalist yet extremely ∑ marriott.com
Scandic Anglais  spacious elegant rooms, which The best place to enjoy five-
Humlegårdsgatan 23, 102 44 come with extras such as free star comfort at half the price
Tel 08-51 73 40 00 Map 3 D3 Wi-Fi and a great breakfast. of similar hotels in the city
∑ scandichotels.com centre. The stylish rooms and
A vibrant hotel with spacious bathrooms are spacious. Great
rooms and lovely wooden floors. breakfast and free Wi-Fi.
Blasieholmen and
Clarion Hotel Sign  Skeppsholmen
Östra Järnvägsgatan 35, 111 20 Södermalm
Tel 08-676 98 00 Map 2 B4 Skeppsholmen 
∑ nordicchoicehotels.com Gröna gången 1, 111 86 Scandic Malmen 
A superbly furnished hotel in the Tel 08-407 23 00 Map 5 E3 Götgatan 51, 102 66
heart of the city. Big rooms with ∑ hotelskeppsholmen.com Tel 08-51 73 47 00 Map 4 B5
huge bathrooms. Good spa. An island restreat; stylish ∑ scandichotels.com
rooms with original wooden Innovatively designed hotel
Radisson Blu Royal Viking  floors and large windows. with neat and cosy rooms.
Vasagatan 1, 101 24 Friendly service and free Wi-Fi.
Tel 08-506 540 00 Map 2 B4
∑ radissonblu.com Further Afield
Luxurious Swedish design hotel Östermalm and Park Inn by Radisson
aimed at business travellers. Gärdet Solna 
Colourful decor and huge rooms. Hotellgatan 11, 171 25 Solna
Best Western Karlaplan  Tel 08-470 91 00
Radisson Blu Waterfront  Skeppargatan 82, 114 59 ∑ parkinn.com
Nils Ericsons Plan 4, 111 64 Tel 08-31 32 20 Map 3 F2 Great option for business
Tel 08-50 50 60 00 Map 2 C5 ∑ hotelkarlaplan.se people, with clean rooms
∑ radissonblu.com Classic red-brick building with well- and a sauna. Complimentary
Plush, extremely spacious rooms furnished rooms. Some budget breakfast buffet.
and exceptional service. Excellent single rooms do not have windows.
restaurant and bar. Quality Hotel Globe 
Clarion Tapto  Arenaslingan 7, 121 26
Riddargatan by Ligula  Jungfrugatan 57, 115 31 Johanneshov
Riddargatan 14, 114 35 Tel 08-664 50 00 Map 3 E3 Tel 08-686 63 00
Tel 08-55 57 30 00 Map 3 E4 ∑ choicehotels.com ∑ nordicchoicehotels.se
∑ ligula.se Striking hotel featuring big, Spacious, bright and comfortable
One of Stockholm’s best business bright rooms with wooden rooms near the trade fair centre.
hotels, Riddargatan has spacious floors. Some have balconies The breakfast buffet is excellent.
rooms with contemporary overlooking the courtyard.
design. It is the ideal base for Scandic Alvik 
clubbers and theatre-goers. Scandic Ariadne  Gustavslundsvägen 153, 167 51
Södra Kajen 37, 115 74 Bromma
Scandic Downtown Camper  Tel 08-51 73 86 00 Tel 08-51 73 41 00
Brunkebergstorg 9, 103 27 ∑ scandichotels.com ∑ scandichotels.com
Tel 08-51 72 63 00 Map 4 A1 Bright, airy rooms and a great A quiet retreat offering basic
∑ scandichotels.com Sky Bar on the 17th floor of this rooms. Nice courtyard and patio.
This innovative themed hotel has hotel. Exceptional service. Close to Lake Malaren.
For more information on types of hotels see p157
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162  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK


Stockholm is one of Europe’s liveliest and combined with Swedish food to create
most varied cities for eating out. Several innovative and delicious cuisine. Lunchtime
of the country’s restaurants have been is the best time to sample traditional
awarded Michelin stars, and Swedish Swedish dishes, and they tend to represent
cuisine is well regarded internationally. excellent value for money. If you want to
Many of the best restaurants have been eat inexpensively in the evening, there are
opened by a number of top Swedish chefs plenty of fast-food outlets, pubs, Chinese
and they are relatively small and informal. restaurants, pizzerias, hotdog stands and
International influences are often kebab houses all over the city.

Where to Eat
have a rather sparse decor and best can be found at the most
There is a great variety of extremely high noise levels. If popular restaurants (see pp166–
restaurants all over the capital, you are looking for somewhere 71). Smoking is banned in all
not just in the city centre. quieter, it is best to choose an public bars and restaurants.
Cafés can also be found in established restaurant. There
large department stores and are many restaurants serving
shopping malls, as well as at cuisine from abroad, or “cross- Opening Times
most museums. Hot meals over” or fusion cooking, Most restaurants open for
can be had on many of the which is Swedish food lunch at 11:30am and
archipelago ferries, and several with foreign close at around
of the boats offering sightseeing influences, 10pm. Dinner is
tours also include dinner resulting in served from 6pm
(see p204). modern Swedish or even earlier.
Sandwiches with a variety cuisine. A large number
of fillings can be bought at If you are of restaurants are
cafés and cake shops, which looking for closed on Sundays
often serve inexpensive hot somewhere or Mondays, as well
dishes at lunchtime. cheap to eat, Inn sign, Gamla Stan as during the winter.
Outdoor cafés spring up in choose a pizzeria, Smaller restaurants may
the summer on many streets kebab house or café. close for their annual holiday
and squares, and also in green Those with a sweet tooth during July.
areas such as Djurgården and will be well catered for in Prices for lunch are often
Hagaparken (see pp124–5). Stockholm’s many modern extremely reasonable, even at
cafés or traditional cake shops, the more elegant places, which
which serve delicious Danish makes lunchtime a good time
Types of Restaurants pastries, cinnamon buns, to have your main meal. Dagens
Fashionable restaurants usually cakes and gateaux. lunch (lunch of the day) is
attract a young crowd, and the Stockholm has few bars generally not served after 2pm,
trendiest places sometimes (see pp178–9) as such, and the even if the restaurant is open in
the afternoon.
For those who prefer to eat
late, a number of restaurants
and pubs serve food until mid-
night or even later, particularly
those that have entertainment,
music or a disco. For those who
are still hungry, there are
24-hour hot-dog kiosks.

Vegetarian Food
Interest in vegetarian food
is increasing in Sweden, and
this is reflected by the fact
that good-quality vegetarian
cuisine is now served at most
Stockholm restaurants. There
are also several completely
The elegant and spacious dining area of the popular Grodan, on Grev Turegatan (p166) vegetarian restaurants.




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  163


wine. Vintage wines are usually
not available at the more
medium­price restaurants.
Many pubs and restaurants
offer a wide selection of beers,
often with one or more on
draught. Many smaller Swedish
breweries make excellent craft
beers that rival those around
the world.
Spirits and wines are
more expensive in Swedish
restaurants because of the high
duty on alcohol and the state
The ever-busy Nytorget Urban Deli (p171) retail alcohol monopoly.
Booking a Table the restaurant has a staffed cloak­
Reservations should be made room, the price is 10–20 kr per Recommended
Restaurants
for evening meals, but many person. Credit cards are accepted
restaurants do not accept in virtually every restaurant. The restaurants featured in this
bookings for lunch. If you want guide have been selected for
to be sure of a table at midday, it Reading the Menu their good value, great food,
is best to arrive at the restaurant atmosphere or a combination
before 11:30am; or go after Dinner in Stockholm usually of these things. A wide range of
1pm, by which time most of the includes a starter, hot main establishments from Stockholm’s
lunchtime clientele will have left. course and a dessert. Most dining scene has been included,
restaurants offer one or more from bistros and trattorias to
fixed­price meals with a choice Swedish restaurants and the
Children of two or three dishes at a more elegant fine­dining
Without exception, children lower price than the à la carte restaurants, some with Michelin
are welcome in all restaurants menu. Many restaurants have stars. Also featured are eateries
in Stockholm. They will be menus in English; if they don’t, serving ethnic cuisine from
offered a special children’s the staff are usually familiar across the world. A number of
menu or half­portions from the with English and will be happy select diners outside the main
normal menu. Highchairs are to explain the menu. A number city are included for their
generally available. of menus have a section outstanding food.
labelled Husmanskost, which For the very best restaurants
features traditional dishes of in Stockholm, look out for
Prices Swedish home­cooking. entries marked DK Choice.
Meal prices at Stockholm Some restaurants serve a These places have been
restaurants are very similar. At typical Swedish smörgåsbord, highlighted in recognition of an
most places hot dishes cost usually on Sundays. During exceptional feature – a celebrity
from about 125 kr, or 250 kr at December a Julbord is also chef, exquisite food, an inviting
the more expensive restaurants. usually available. This is similar ambience or simply for great
Lunch prices are 75–100 kr, to the smörgåsbord, but with value. Most are very popular
and that often includes bread, a lavish buffet selection of among locals and visitors, so be
salad, a soft drink and coffee. traditional seasonal dishes. sure to contact them regarding
The price of beer, wine and You can eat as much as you reservations well in advance to
other alcoholic drinks can like at a fixed price, but drinks guarantee a table.
vary considerably. As in most are not included.
places, the more expensive the
restaurant, the higher the price What to Drink
of the wine. The house wine is
usually the cheapest, with a Wine and beer
bottle normally costing from are the normal
250 kr. Beer is cheaper in pubs accompaniments
than in restaurants. Tap water to a meal, as well
is free of charge, and Stock­ as tap or mineral
holm’s drinking water is of water. The wine list
excellent quality. often features a
Tips are always included good selection of
in the bill but, if you want wine from countries
to reward exceptionally good outside Europe, Stately entrance to the plush Mäster Anders restaurant
service, you can round it up. If along with a house in Kungsholmen (p169)




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164  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Stockholm

Thanks to strict regulations, Sweden is one of most unpolluted
countries in Europe and produces some of the purest food.
Salmon can be caught in the heart of Stockholm, zander and
herring are fished from the nearby coastal waters and the lakes
and rivers are full of crayfish and other delicacies. Fish is a
staple, but other gastronomic treats are also on offer.
Wild game, such as grouse, reindeer and moose, is
abundant in autumn and winter. The forests are full of
berries and mushrooms, and the rich pastures produce Fresh dill
superlative dairy produce, including several fine cheeses.

it has grown into a full-scale potatoes, onions, anchovies
meal. A traditional smörgåsbord and cream). Finally an array
will start with a selection of of desserts will be placed
different herring appetizers, on the table. Diners help
followed by a variety of cold themselves, changing their
dishes such as hard-boiled plates between courses.
eggs, meat pies and salads. Some Swedes will prepare
Then a number of hot dishes a smörgåsbord as a good way
are served, including such of using leftovers. Inventive
offerings as meatballs, fried cooks often improvise a
potatoes and Jansson’s very simple version when
Temptation (a gratin of unexpected guests arrive,
Beetroot & orange salad Rye crispbread Pickled herring Egg with
Fresh anchovies on offer at
Östermalmshallen food market Cucumber salad lumpfish roe
The Smörgåsbord
The smörgåsbord made its first
appearance on Swedish tables
sometime in the 18th century,
when it consisted of a spread
of hot and cold hors d’oeuvres Cheese
that would be served as a Pork liver pâté
prelude to a grand lunch or
dinner. All this was washed Lingonberry tartlets
down with ice-cold snaps Smoked ham
(akvavit). Gradually, however, Selection of items typically found on a cold smörgåsbord
Local Dishes and Specialities
A typical Swedish breakfast often includes yoghurt or
filmjölk (a type of soured milk yoghurt) with cereal.
Many Swedes, however, prefer a more savoury start to
the day, and cheese, ham and even liver paté may be
on offer. Bread spread with kaviar (a cod’s roe paste) is
also eaten at breakfast. For lunch, most people reach
for something quick and simple to prepare. Salad,
perhaps served with a seafood, ham or vegetable
quiche, is common, and pasta is popular too. As well
as the main meals, a break for coffee and pastries,
known as fika, is taken at any time of the day. This
strong Swedish tradition is a sociable event as much
as an occasion to eat. In the evening, families usually
get together for the main meal of the day, dinner, a Gravad Lax, a salmon fillet marinated for
more elaborate, but still homely, affair. two days in sugar, salt and dill, is served
with a creamy mustard sauce.






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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  165


New Nordic Cuisine
The turn of the 21st century
has witnessed a renaissance of
innovative cooking in Sweden,
with people now visiting
Stockholm for its New Nordic
food as well as its culture. New
Nordic cuisine plays with tradi-
tio nal regional dishes, made
with the finest – usually locally
sourced and organic – ingredi-
ents and given a modern twist.
Instead of simple meatballs
with lingonberries, chefs are
A colourful vegetable stall at Hötorget market increasingly offering delights
such as foie gras with a spiced
using larder staples, such as served on Thursdays, mixed berry and apple chutney,
eggs, slices of cheese and accompanied by sausages and turning cheap staples, such
cooked meats, and tinned or lightly salted meat and as pig’s offal, into magnificent,
or pickled fish. During the mustard. This is generally melt-in-the-mouth mousses.
Christmas season, many followed by pancakes with
Stockholm restaurants serve jam, washed down with hot WHAT TO DRINK
a special smörgåsbord, known punsch. Other popular dishes
as a Julbord, which will include include pytt i panna (a hash of Beer Along with vodka, beer
dishes using nearly every part meat, onions and potatoes) is the most popular drink to
accompany a smörgåsbord.
of the pig, such as various and meatballs, served with In the past, little was on offer
ham, trotters and a special lingonberry jam. other than insipid lagers, but a
brawn called sylta, made beer-making revival has made
from the head. styles from dark porters to pale
Rustic Fare ales available, including some
interesting fruit and sour beers.
The Swedes are very good at Vodka About 60 types of
using cheap cuts to prepare snaps, each flavoured with
delicious dishes, and different herbs and spices,
seasoning is usually kept are made in Sweden.
simple with salt, pepper and
fresh dill. Such homely fare, Punsch This sweet arak spirit
is often taken with coffee or
known as husmanskost, is served hot with pea soup.
central to the Swedish diet
and regularly features on the Wine A huge variety of fine
menus of many Stockholm wines are imported, but they
restaurants. One favourite is A selection of fine fish from Sweden’s are usually expensive.
yellow pea soup, traditionally pristine coastal waters














Jansson’s Temptation is a dish Meatballs made from beef or Apple cake is a delicious
of layered potatoes, anchovies pork are drenched in a rich buttery dessert traditionally
and onions with cream, and is meaty sauce and served with served piping hot with cold
baked until golden. lingonberries. vanilla sauce.






164-165_EW_Stockholm.indd 165 19/09/17 12:01 pm

166  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

by classic French brasserie food. Price Guide
Gamla Stan Great views across the water. Prices are for a three-course meal for
one, half a bottle of house wine and
Vapiano Gamla Stan  Pubologi  other charges such as service and cover.
Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 B3 New Nordic Map 4 B3  under 450 Kr

450–1,000 Kr
Munkbrogatan 8, 114 27 Stora Nygatan 20, 111 27  over 1,000 Kr
Tel 08-22 29 40 Tel 08-50 64 00 86 Closed Sun & Jul
Upmarket Italian fast-food joint, Modern cooking mixed with
where a range of dishes – from classic Swedish and international together using the finest local
pasta to pizza – is rustled up in dishes. The restaurant also brews ingredients, such as reindeer,
front of the patrons in no time. a couple of unique beers. bleak roe and cranberries.
Bistro & Grill Ruby  Frantzen  Belgobaren 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 C3 Fine Dining Map 4 B3 Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 C4
Österlånggatan 14, 111 31 Lilla Nygatan 21, 111 28 Bryggargatan 12, 101 31
Tel 08-20 57 76 Closed Sun Tel 08-20 85 80 Closed Sun Tel 08-24 66 40
Choose between grilled food in Everything about this restaurant, A Belgian restaurant serving
US Southern down-home style, with two Michelin stars, is huge portions of fresh mussels
or French home-cooking and designed to maximize the and frites with oodles of mayo.
wine in a more formal set-up. feast of the senses. Exquisite set Great range of Belgian beers.
menus and impeccable service.
DK Choice Le Rouge  Cloud Nine Map 2 B4

Fine Dining
Bistro Pastis   Fine Dining Map 4 C3 Torsgatan 1, 111 23
Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 C3 Brunnsgränd 24, 111 30 Tel 08-653 69 90 Closed Sun
Baggensgatan 12, 111 31 Tel 08-50 52 44 30 Closed Sun Sample different cuisine – from
Tel 08-20 20 18 High-class French cuisine, with dim sum to Swedish seafood
Sample excellent, good-value the occasional Italian twist, is and French classics. Eat on the
French bistro food in an area served in luxurious surroundings. terrace in the summer months.
otherwise packed with tourist
traps. The informal setting and Grill 
reasonably priced set lunch Fine Dining Map 2 C3
menus make this a popular City Drottninggatan 89, 113 60
choice. The crème brûlée is Tel 08-31 45 30
one of Stockholm’s finest. Hattori Sushi Devil  This huge bar and grill
Japanese Map 2 B3 appeals to a young crowd
Drottninggatan 85, 111 60 who flock here for the sizzling
Den Gyldene Freden  Tel 08-22 44 00 steaks and delicious cocktails.
Fine Dining Map 4 C4 A small and cozy restaurant Do not miss the elaborate
Österlånggatan 51, 103 17 serving good-quality sushi Sunday buffet.
Tel 08-24 97 60 Closed Sun and sashimi. The fried shrimp
Good Swedish husmanskost, a is a popular choice. Serves Grodan 
variety of different akvavit, and five kinds of sake. Swedish Map 3 E2
French fare at this spot favoured Grev Turegatan 16, 114 46
by artists and intellectuals. Nalen  Tel 08-679 61 00
Swedish Map 3 D3 Classic Swedish food in a
Djuret  Regeringsgatan 74, 111 39 pleasant setting. The raggmunk
Fine Dining Map 4 B3 Tel 08-50 52 92 01 Closed Sun (Swedish potato pancakes) are
Lilla Nygatan 5, 111 28 Traditional Swedish food put hard to resist. Popular with the
Tel 08-50 64 00 84 Closed Sun & Jul local crowd.
Meat, and lots of it. The menu is
based around the meat of one Jamie’s Italian 
particular animal and usually Italian Map 3 D3
changes every couple of weeks. Humlegårdsgatan 23, 114 46
Tel 08-517 340 20
Magnus Ladulas  The first Jamie Oliver restaurant
Swedish Map 4 C3 in Sweden, located in the
Österlånggatan 26, 111 31 heart of the city’s entertainment
Tel 08-21 19 57 Closed Sun district. The menu features
Guests choose the setting – a appetizing, rustic dishes.
cellar, a classic dining room or,
in the right weather, the street Operakällarens Bakficka 
terrace. Delectable fare. Seafood Map 3 D5
Karl XII:s Torg, 111 86
Mr French  Tel 08-676 58 00 Closed Sun
Seafood Map 4 C3 Savour generous helpings
Tullhus 2, Skeppsbron, 111 30 of Swedish food, especially
Tel 08-20 20 95 fish. The daily specials are
The menu, prepared by one of Entrance to the chic Bistro Pastis, listed on a chalkboard.
Sweden’s top chefs, is inspired Gamla Stan No reservations.
166-171_EW_Stockholm.indd 166 19/09/17 11:53 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  167

PA and Co 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 E4
Riddargatan 8, 114 35
Tel 08-611 08 45
Another small yet famous
Stockholm restaurant, for which
you will almost certainly need a
reservation. French food that is
definitely worth the money.
Riche 
Swedish Map 3 E4
Birger Jarlsgatan 4, 114 34
Tel 08-54 50 35 60
Swedish food at its best. The
meatballs with mash and gravy
are terrific. Informal ambience.
Rolfs Kök 
Modern Swedish Map 2 C3
Tegnérgatan 41, 111 61 Glitzy bar area at the classy Grodan
Tel 08-10 16 96
Taste some of the best seasonal Zink Grill  a blend of French fine dining
Swedish food in the city. The wine Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 D4 and classic Swedish dishes.
list runs to more than 450 varieties. Biblioteksgatan 5, 111 46 Excellent service.
Tel 08-611 42 22
Sturehof  An outstanding bar and grill in Wedholms Fisk 
Swedish Map 3 D4 an unbeatable location. It’s open Seafood Map 3 E4
Stureplan 2, 114 46 for breakfast too, which is rare in Arsenalsgatan 1, 111 47
Tel 08-440 57 30 Stockholm. For lunch, the mixed Tel 08-611 78 74 Closed Sun
This place offers a really good grill for two offers great value. Great food with views to match,
selection of meat and seafood and arguably the finest selection
in a traditional setting. There is DK Choice of seafood in the land. Don’t
also a lively bar at the back. miss the signature turbot.
Ekstedt 
Supper  New Nordic Map 3 D3
South American Map 2 B3 Humlegårdsgatan 17, 114 46
Tegnérgatan 37, 111 61 Tel 08-611 12 10 Closed Sun Blasieholmen &
Tel 08-23 24 24 Closed Sun Michelin-starred Ekstedt serves Skeppsholmen
Spacious and bright restaurant amazing grilled meat and fish
serving South American-inspired cooked over open fires by a
food. Try the slow-cooked beef team of young top Swedish chefs. DK Choice
with chocolate and chilli, or The experience is made more
fishcakes with lime and ginger. enjoyable by the superb waiting B.A.R. 
staff. Set menus are expensive Seafood Map 4 C1
Tjabba Thai  but offer a genuine culinary Blasieholmsgatan 4a, 111 48
Thai Map 2 B3 journey through Sweden. Tel 08-611 53 35
Wallingatan 7, 111 60 Choose fish from the large
Tel 08-21 99 88 counter and watch it get custom-
Spicy and tasty Thai food prepared Griffins Steakhouse  cooked to perfection. There is
with authentic ingredients. Closes Steak Map 2 C4 lobster and crab too, waiting to
at 10pm. Try the som tam tai Klarabergsviadukten 67, 111 64 be fished out of the aquarium
salad and the geng som gong, a Tel 08-51 94 22 70 Closed Sun and boiled or grilled. One of the
dish of scampi in a spicy curry. Upmarket steakhouse offering most popular eateries in the city.
a choice of sizes: 250 g (8.8 oz) or
350 g (12 oz). The burger with
cheddar and bacon is heavenly. Hjerta 
Swedish Map 5 D2
Operakällaren  Slupskjulsvagen 28b, 111 49
Swedish Map 4 C1 Tel 08-611 41 00 Closed Sun & winter
Karl XII:s Torg, 111 86 With its terrific Skeppsholmen
Tel 08-676 58 00 Closed Sun & Mon setting and classic Swedish
Enjoy a lavish dining experience cuisine, Hjerta is a great place for
in surroundings that are an a quiet lunch or private dinner.
attraction in themselves. Reserve
well in advance for weekends. Långa Raden 
Fine Dining Map 5 F3
Teatergrillen  Gröna gången 1, 111 86
Fine Dining Map 3 E2 Tel 08-407 23 00
Nybrogatan 3, 114 34 Situated in Hotel Skeppsholmen,
Tel 08-54 50 35 65 Closed Sun this place offers formal dining with
Elegant interior of the Wedholms Fisk, Come to one of Stockholm’s classic Swedish and international
popular for seafood oldest restaurants to enjoy dishes on the menu. Great service.
For more information on types of restaurants see p163
166-171_EW_Stockholm.indd 167 19/09/17 11:53 am

168  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Brasserie Elverket 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 D3
Linnégatan 69, 114 60
Tel 08-661 25 62
Scandinavian/European food
served in an informal setting.
The Norwegian cod with mashed
potatoes is especially popular.
Cassi 
Fine Dining Map 3 F3
Narvavägen 30, 115 22
Tel 08-661 74 61
This place dishes out modern
European cuisine with a hint of
French. Good steak Béarnaise
and a legendary wine list.
Refreshing beer from the tap at Wärdshuset Ulla Windbladh, Djurgården Funkalistic 
Swedish
Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen Wärdshuset Ulla Windbladh  Sehlstedtsgatan 1, 115 28
and Matbaren  Swedish Map 6 A3 Tel 08-12 20 37 77
Fine Dining Map 4 C1 Rosendalsvägen 8, 115 21 Close to the cruise ship and
Grand Hotel, Södra Tel 08-53 48 97 01 ferry terminals, this family-run
Blasieholmshamnen 6, 111 48 Beautifully located restaurant establishment offers traditional
Tel 08-679 35 84 with an old-fashioned Swedish food at great prices.
The tasting menu at this Michelin- atmosphere serving traditional
starred restaurant is a veritable and modern Swedish food. Speceriet 
treat of flavours and innovative New Nordic Map 3 F2
combinations. There is also a Artillerigatan 14, 114 51
more elaborate six-course themed Tel 08-662 30 60
menu. Well-stocked wine cellar. Östermalm and This tiny place offers modern
Gärdet Nordic food with a contemporary
take on classic dishes. It is best to
Dell’Attore  reserve ahead.
Djurgården Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 F2
Skeppargatan 60, 114 59 Spring 
Hasselbacken  Tel 08-442 61 18 Ethnic Map 2 C2
Swedish Map 6 A3 Small, bustling eatery covered Karlavägen 110, 115 26
Hazeliusbacken 20, 100 55 with photos of famous actors. Tel 08-655 11 22
Tel 08-51 73 43 00 The pizzas are the best in town. Spring relies on a delicious and
Traditional Swedish food served complex mix of influences, such
in a finely restored 1850s setting. Brasserie Bobonne  as Asian, North African and South
Good selection of desserts. A Fine Dining Map 3 E4 American, in its dishes.
children’s menu is also available. Storgatan 12, 114 51
Tel 08-660 03 18 Tyge & Sessil 
Solliden Skansen  Sample classic dishes such as Wine Bar Map 3 E3
Swedish Map 6 A3 moules marinières and boeuf Brahegatan 4, 114 37
Skansen Museum, 100 55 bourguignon, and enjoy a range Tel 08-519 422 77
Tel 08-56 63 70 00 of well-matured French cheeses. Chef Niklas Ekstedt serves locally
Enjoy breathtaking views of sourced small plates here, just
Stockholm at this charming across the road from his Michelin-
eatery and savour a classic ranked, wood-fired-oven
Swedish smörgåsbord at lunch. namesake restaurant.
Spritmuseum Restaurant  Esperanto 
Fine Dining Map 6 B4 New Nordic Map 3 B3
Djurgårdsvägen 38, 115 21 Kungstensgatan 2, 114 25
Tel 08-12 13 13 09 Tel 08-696 23 23
Head Chef Petter Nilsson, who Housed in a former theatre, this
previously owned two renowned Michelin-starred restaurant
restaurants in France, uses serves superbly inventive food.
seasonal, locally sourced ingredi- Unpretentious service. Try the
ents to create sumptuous dishes. 15-course tasting menu.
Villa Godthem  Proviant 
Fine Dining Map 6 A3 New Nordic Map 3 E3
Rosendalsvagen 9, 115 21 Sturegatan 19, 114 36
Tel 08-50 52 44 15 Tel 08-22 60 50
Great location and excellent food, Lively restaurant serving excellent
mostly Swedish classics. Organic and inventive Swedish cuisine
fare and local ingredients are Softly lit dining area at sleek gastropub with a French twist. Don’t miss
used whenever possible. Restaurang Volt the five-course “surprise” menu.
Key to Price Guide see p166


166-171_EW_Stockholm.indd 168 19/09/17 11:53 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  169

Restaurang Volt  and a pleasant atmosphere. ingredients from pork and
New Nordic Map 3 E3 Roppongi also has another herring to scallops and fallow
Kommendörsgatan 16, 114 48 branch in Stockholm. deer. Inti mate space with bare
Tel 08-662 34 00 Closed Sun & Mon brick walls.
This gastropub with minimalist Spisa Hos Helena 
decor serves traditional Swedish Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 A4 Lux 
food. Specialities include must- Scheelegatan 18, 112 28 Fine Dining
have dishes such as reindeer Tel 08-654 49 26 Primusgatan 116, 112 67
with berries and baked marrow. This restaurant serves up large Tel 08-619 01 90 Closed Mon
portions of classic international Michelin-starred Swedish food
dishes at affordable prices. served in the former Electrolux
canteen. The lunchtime set menu
Kungsholmen Sthlm Tapas  offers great value for money.
Spanish Map 1 C3
La Famiglia  Pontonjärgatan 28, 112 37 Stadshuskällaren 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B2 Tel 08-654 90 30 Fine Dining Map 1 B3
Alströmergatan 45, 112 47 Good tapas are hard to find in Hantverkargatan 1, 112 21
Tel 08-650 63 10 Stockholm, but this place won’t Tel 08-58 62 18 30
Particularly popular with families, disappoint. Loads of Spanish Set in the basement of the City
this charming restaurant serves hams and quesadillas as well. Hall, this restaurant hosts the
classic Italian cuisine in a quirky annual Nobel Prize banquet.
setting at budget prices. Tabbouli  Serves traditional Swedish food.
Lebanese Map 2 A4
Great India  Norra Agnegatan 39, 112 29
Indian Map 1 B2 Tel 08-650 25 00
Fleminggatan 62, 112 45 Probably the best Lebanese Vasastan
Tel 08-651 99 01 restaurant in Stockholm. It
One of the very few quality specializes in grilled meats and Babette 
Indian restaurants in Stockholm. meze, all served in a lively setting. Italian Map 2 C2
Delectable curries, good staff and Roslagsgatan 6, 113 55
a lovely terrace in the summer. Trattorian  Tel 08-509 022 24
Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B3 Known for its pizza, this Italian
Agnes  Norr Malarstrand, Kajplats 464, restaurant has a constantly
Spanish Map 2 A4 112 20 changing menu of small plates
Norra Agnegatan 43, 112 29 Tel 08-50 52 44 50 Closed Sun that offer a perfect marriage of
Tel 08-410 470 19 Lively waterside Italian restaurant creativity and classics. Excellent
This vibrant spot serves large and with chaotic yet stylish decor. The wine list.
small plates such as suckling pig food matches the surroundings,
with truffle aioli, grilled prawns, and prices are good. Bistrot Paname 
and blood sausage. Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 B1
AG  Hagagatan 5, 113 48
DK Choice Steak Map 1 C2 Tel 08-31 43 38
French bistro that offers gorgeous
Kronobergsgatan 37, 112 33
Mälarpaviljongen  Tel 08-41 06 81 00 ambience and inventive food at
Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B3 A meat lover’s paradise, and great prices. Impeccable service.
Norr Mälarstrand 64, 112 35 home of one of Sweden’s best
Tel 08-650 87 01 bison steaks. Good tapas menu Browallshof 
An absolutely lovely place to and decent cocktails, too. Swedish Map 2 C2
eat outdoors, by the waterside, Surbrunnsgatan 20, 113 48
from spring to autumn. Soak Lilla Ego  Tel 08-16 51 36 Closed Sun
in the laid-back ambience, New Nordic Map 2 A2 Old-fashioned Swedish restaurant.
complete with chill-out music Västmannagatan 69, 113 26 Highlights include duck sausage
and lounge-bar feel. The menu Tel 08-27 44 55 Closed Sun & Mon and sautéed sweetbreads with
features upmarket burgers, Innovative dishes combine local leeks and cured ox tongue.
salads and grilled fish. Prices are
reasonable, and the service
is exceptional.
Mäster Anders 
Swedish Map 2 A4
Pipersgatan 1, 112 24
Tel 08-654 20 01
Contemporary Swedish restaurant
that offers an excellent lunch
menu. Delicious meatballs.
Roppongi 
Japanese Map 1 B3
Hantverkargatan 76c, 12 38
Tel 08-650 17 72
A great place that offers really
good sushi, attentive service The simple dining room at Mäster Anders
For more information on types of restaurants see p163

166-171_EW_Stockholm.indd 169 19/09/17 11:53 am

170  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

I Cinque Sensi  Feca 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B1 Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 B2
Rörstrandsgatan 23, 113 40 Torkel Knutssonsgatan 35, 118 49
Tel 08-33 31 00 Tel 08-428 98 28
Excellent Italian eatery. The grilled This is one of the best places in
red tuna is great, as are the Stockholm to gorge on cheap
desserts. Good selection of wines. Italian food. Feca offers healthy
portions of pizza and pasta at
Linguini  half the price of similar eateries
Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 A2 around the city.
Frejgatan 48, 113 26
Tel 08-31 49 15 Hermans 
A small and homely Italian Vegetarian Map 9 E2
restaurant that serves tasty Fjällgatan 23B, 116 28
pasta dishes. There is also a Tel 08-643 94 80
good selection of Italian Enjoy great views from the
wines on offer. waterside tables at this
restaurant. There is live jazz or
Tennstopet  bossa nova two or three times a
Swedish Map 2 A2 week, and a vegetarian buffet
Dalagatan 50, 113 24 The brightly lit entrance to Tranan, a classy that changes theme daily.
Tel 08-32 25 18 bistro in Vasastan
Unpretentious neighbourhood Blå Dörren 
joint that rustles up scrumptious DK Choice Swedish Map 9 D2
Swedish food. It has been around Södermalmstorg 6, 116 45
for almost half a century. Stallmästaregården  Tel 08-743 07 43
Fine Dining Good-value Swedish food in a
Tranan  Stallmästaregården, Norrtull, lovely dining room complete
Swedish Map 3 F2 113 47 with high, arched ceilings. The
Karlbergsvägen 14, 113 27 Tel 08-610 13 01 lunchtime buffet is particularly
Tel 08-52 72 81 00 This former coaching inn dating good and well priced.
A little off the beaten track, from the 17th century is char-
this bistro-style eatery offers mingly located on Brunnsviken Café Nizza 
superb international cuisine lakeside. Tastefully renovated in New Nordic Map 9 E3
and Swedish home food at 2012, it offers a wide range of Åsögatan 171, 116 32
good prices. There is a lively modern Swedish cuisine with Tel 08-640 99 50
bar downstairs. strong traditional influences. This eatery highlights Swedish
The smörgåsbord served on ingredients alongside the cooking
weekend afternoons is good methods of Southern Europe.
value. Warm, friendly service. Order the constantly changing,
Nortull and North four-course tasting menu, and go
of Stockholm with it. A spacious terrace is
available in summer.
Döden I Grytan 
Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 B2 Södermalm Delikatessen Bistro Bar 
Norrtullsgatan 61, Normalm, Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 B2
113 45 Falafelbaren  Krukmakargatan 22, 118 51
Tel 08-32 50 95 Turkish Map 8 B2 Tel 08-658 42 50
Come to this superb restaurant Hornsgatan 39, 118 49 Housed inside an old fire station.
for classic Italian countryside Tel 072 907 26 37 Closed Sun The food is an exquisite blend of
food. It is almost always full, and Here, the perfect falafel is served modern European and classic
reservations are essential. Great with chilli sauce and pickled French cuisine, and the decor is
value for money. mango. Vegan options too. trendy and chic.
Ellora 
Indian Map 8 A2
Hornsgatan 85, 117 26
Tel 08-658 65 01
Good, relatively cheap Indian
restaurant with gorgeous decor
and an excellent selection of
curries. Try the prawn cocktail.
Faros 
Greek Map 9 E3
Sofiagatan 1, 116 40
Tel 08-442 14 14
A fine selection of Greek dishes
draws the crowds here. Don’t
miss the dolmadakia and Faros
pepper steak. The restaurant also
serves excellent seafood and a
Outside seating at the Tennstopet in Vasastan good selection of wines.
Key to Price Guide see p166

166-171_EW_Stockholm.indd 170 19/09/17 11:53 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  171

Häktet 
Swedish Map 8 A2
Hornsgatan 82, 118 21
Tel 08-84 59 10 Closed Sun
Classic Swedish food in a
minimalist and contemporary
setting, away from the tourist
hordes. Superb wine selection and
cocktails complement the food.
Hjordis 
Swedish/Thai Map 9 E3
Borgmästargatan 7, 116 29
Tel 08-640 99 50 Closed Sun
Contemporary Swedish and Thai
fusion cuisine brings in a hip
crowd. The retro design of the Warm interiors and cozy couches at Gondolen, Södermalm
place appeals to youngsters.
Friendly and warm service. atmosphere have made this Båthuset 
the eatery of choice of some Seafood
DK Choice of Stockholm’s trendiest Hamnen, Sigtuna
Tel 08-59 25 67 80 Closed Sun & Mon
people. The cheese platter is
Indian Garden  delicious. Try the elaborate A good-value floating restaurant
Indian Map 1 C5 weekend brunch. that mainly prepares seafood,
Heleneborgsgatan 15, 117 31 with cod and crayfish being the
Tel 08-84 94 28 DK Choice specialities. Great choice for
This excellent Indian restaurant a romantic dinner.
serves delectable curries, as Pelikan 
spicy as one may choose. Go for Swedish Map 8 C4 Edsbacka 
the devilishly hot vindaloo or Blekingegatan 40, 116 62 Swedish
the mild chicken korma. There Tel 08-55 60 90 90 Sollentunavagen 220, 191 35
are plenty of vegetarian A traditional Swedish beer Solentuna
options, too, and it is perfect for hall serving all the usual Tel 08-580 016 60
large groups of diners. Service is Swedish favourites, from Fine yet informal dining at
fantastic and very friendly. herring platter to fish stew. an inn dating from 1626. On
The cheeses are delicious, the menu is Swedish food with
and the meatballs are arguably a modern twist. Don’t miss the
Nostrano  Stockholm’s very best. Pelikan pork schnitzel.
Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 C2 attracts both locals and
Timmermansgatan 13, 118 25 tourists, and serves one of DK Choice
Tel 08-644 10 35 Closed Sun the best selections of Swedish
A busy eatery serving quality beer in the city. Noisy and Fjärderholmarnas
Italian fare. The pasta is made boisterous, so not the ideal Rökeriet 
fresh on the spot, and the list of place for a quiet night out. Swedish
desserts is fantastic. There are no Stora Fjärderholmen,
fewer than nine types of grappa. Fjärderholmarna
Gondolen  Tel 08-716 50 88
Nytorget Urban Deli  Swedish Map 9 E2 On a small island at the
Bistro/Trattoria Map 9 E3 Stadsgården 6, 105 65 entrance to the archipelago,
Nytorget 4, 116 40 Tel 08-641 70 90 Closed Sun the Rökeriet serves great
Tel 08-59 90 91 80 Perched 33 m (108 ft) above seafood, available as both
High-quality food and a quirky the water, this restaurant offers buffet and à la carte. Do not
great views and contemporary miss the elaborate and
food, not to mention delicious sumptuous Archipelago Buffet.
cocktaiIs served at the sleek bar. The restaurant also serves an
It is always full, so be sure to interesting crayfish dinner every
make your reservations well day in August and organizes a
in advance. special Christmas dinner.
Holmen Kök & Bar 
Further Afield Modern Swedish
Torben Gruts väg 5, 133 39
Landet  Saltsjöbaden
Swedish Tel 08-717 77 67
LM Ericssons vag 27, 126 37 Open only during the
Midsommarkransen summer, Holmen Kök & Bar
Tel 08-41 01 93 20 Closed Sun primarily serves the many
A trendy Swedish eatery, locals who keep their boats
Landet is popular with moored in the small harbour
Stockholm foodies. Try the here. Good, simple food is
The bar area at the ever-popular Nytorget exquisite veal entrecôte or offered, along with live music
Urban Deli the steak tartare. and an exclusive feel.
For more information on types of restaurants see p163
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172  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cafés and Pubs Bagatelle Café, located in
a bright and airy setting
Swedes love their coffee. At work people take a coffee and right at the entrance to
cake break, or fika, at around 3pm, and if they are out and the Kungshallen. They also
about, they may pop into a café. The cake shops (marked offer freshly squeezed juices
“Konditori”) have a long tradition. They serve typical Swedish and delicious smoothies.
pastries, with everything from sweet small buns to tempting
gateaux. The best cake shops have their own bakeries and sell Pubs
a variety of pastries and sandwiches. Cafés were once cheaper The old Swedish beer cafés
and more popular than the elegant cake shops, but the have either closed down,
differences have been evened out, and there are now many transformed into a local res-
Continental-style cafés serving espresso, cappuccino and taurant (Tranan at Odenplan
caffe latte. Many cafés open for breakfast early in the morning, is a typical example – see p170)
or are now pubs with an
and they usually serve lunch as well. The old Swedish “beer international flavour. Irish,
cafés” have been replaced by the city’s many pubs, which Scottish or English pubs are
also serve simple dishes at reasonable prices. all popular, but there are also
influences from Belgium, the
Czech Republic, Germany,
Cafés and Cake Shops outstanding, and chocaholics Australia and the USA.
Café culture is flourishing in won’t be able to resist the home- Stockholmers generally have a
Stockholm, and the style ranges made pralines. After a hectic great interest in beer, so the pubs
from American or Italian to day’s shopping, head for the usually have a wide selection of
traditional Swedish and classic trendy Hotel Diplomat T/Bar, brews, and the staff are know-
cake shops. The café is a good which serves English-style ledgeable. Try some of the beers
choice if you feel peckish afternoon tea. Another oasis in from three small, acclaimed, qua-
between meals, need to rest your the shopping district is Gateau, lity breweries: Tärnö, Stockholm’s
legs or simply want a meeting one floor up in Sturegallerian. own brewery; Slottskällan in
place. Apart from coffee, The pastries are delicious, and Uppsala; and Pilgrimstad from
sandwiches and cakes, nearly all the gentle piano music is parti- northern Sweden.
cafés serve simple lunches – cularly enjoyable and relaxing. One of the busiest and most
quiches and salad, for example – Rather more unusual is traditional pubs is the Tudor
soft drinks and ice cream. Typical Legumes, which serves Arms, opened in the 1960s.
cafés serve Swedish-style strong nutritious yet tasty Middle English is the normal language
coffee, along with sand wiches, Eastern vegetarian delicacies here, and many of the regular
buns and cakes. Don’t miss the with biodynamic bread. Another customers are British. Scots and
delicious prinsesstårta cream one is Bakverket. Renowned for Americans head for the
cake, by far the most popular its fresh baked bread, it is also Bagpiper’s Inn, where
one. Cafés usually close at said to to provide Stockholm’s bagpipes are provided on the
around 6pm. best breakfast. upper floor, and Scottish beers
Many cafés have tables outside Mellgvist Caffé is a very are available. One floor down is
in the summer. If you feel like popular place for hanging the Bald Eagle, where drink ers
sitting under a fruit tree, where out close to Sankt Eriksplan. can enjoy rock music, and there
you can enjoy the birdsong, The moreish turkey and is usually a queue for the billiards
Rosendals Träd gårdskafé on horseradish cream panini table. For some of the best
Djurgården is the place. The is particularly addictive. craft beer in Stockholm, visitors
salad buffet, consisting of Wayne’s Coffee is Söder- can also head to the pub at
organic ally grown vegetables malm’s most popular meeting Omnipollo, an award-winning
and home-baked bread, is a feast place, with giant sandwiches brewery that has been listed
for the eye and the palate. It is and cakes, comfortable arm- among the top 100 brewers
open only during the summer chairs and an elegant clientele. in the world.
and in December. Lasse i Parken Espresso House serves bagels, Anyone feeling homesick
is another rustic idyll in the city sandwiches, fresh baked goods for Ireland only needs to go
with home-baked bread and and many different types of through the door of Limerick to
delicious cheesecakes. coffee. At Café Tabac you can enjoy some Guinness or Kilkenny.
Sturekatten is a classic cake mingle with the locals as you Irish music is performed there at
shop decorated in the style of enjoy a café au lait and home- weekends. O’Leary’s has many
an early 20th-century upper- baked brownies. Absolutely expat regulars and also serves
class home with many small the finest espresso is served at excellent food. The Dubliner
rooms and unrivalled pastries. Tintarella di Luna, an authentic is yet another Irish pub, with a
Vete-Katten is one of Italian café, which also has large selection of malt whiskeys.
Stockholm’s most authentic the city’s best panini. Coffee Live music contributes to the
cake shops. Its pastries are connoisseurs should not miss atmosphere. On Södermalm,




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  173


Soldaten Svejk specializes in rather more refined than at going out to the pub as a pleasant
Czech draught beer and offers most other pubs. A pleasant and often less expensive alter-
rustic country cooking. rural feel pervades the Pub native to their local restaurant.
BrewDog Bar serves a wide Anchor, which specializes in Most pubs are open daily.
range of international and unusual beers and has live Many open for lunch and
Swedish beers, as well as food. music 3–4 nights a week. usually close at 11pm, while a
Beer connoisseurs or whisky Lundgrens is one of Sweden’s few remain open to midnight
drinkers should head for Akkurat, best lagers and can be enjoyed or 1am (see also pp178–9).
which has about 400 different on Kungsholmen, where it is
types of whisky and beer from all brewed by the Tärnö brewery. Fast Food
over the world, but particularly It is served on draught at both
from Belgium. Mussels are Mackinlay’s Inn and Kings If you are looking for a quick
always on the menu, but there Head, two pleasant local pubs. snack, there are plenty of
is also a good choice of other Tennstopet was once a meeting street kiosks selling hot dogs,
hot dishes and delicious snacks. place for journalists, and some hamburgers or kebabs. Several
Beer and whisky tastings take have remained loyal customers. of them are open 24 hours.
place frequently, the staff are It is pleasant but noisy, and The Kungshallen complex at
knowledgeable, and service is there is a darts board. Swedish Hötorget has a lot of restaurants
quick. Oliver Twist is reckoned “home cooking” is available. The and fast-food outlets –
to be one of the city’s best pubs clientele is typically in the upper particularly useful for groups
for draught beer, imported from middle-age bracket. who are undecided on the type
all over the world. The staff here Swedish pubs serve not just of food they want to eat. There
are also dedicated and know- drinks but also snacks and are also plenty of pizzerias of
ledgeable. Business people value-for-money hot food from varying standards, as well as
head for Man in the Moon after lunchtime till late in the evening. Chinese restaurants, where you
work, and the atmos phere is Many Stockholmers now regard can eat well and inexpensively.
DIRECTORY
Cafés and Cake Mellgvist Caffé Pubs Man in the Moon
Shops Rörstandsgatan 4. Akkurat Tegnérgatan 2 C.
Bagatelle Café Map 1 B1. Hornsgatan 18. Map 2 C3.
Tel 08-458 95 00.
Kungsgatan 44. Tel 08-30 23 80. Map 8 C2.
Map 2 C4. Rosendals Tel 08-644 00 15. O’Leary’s
Tel 08-791 88 80. Vasagatan.
Trädgårdskafé Bagpiper’s Inn Map 2 B4.
Bakverket Rosendalsterrassen 12. Rörstrandsgatan 21. Tel 073-688 16 86.
Bondegatan 59. Map 9 E3. Map 6 C3. Map 1 C1.
Tel 08-640 91 07. Oliver Twist
Tel 08-545 812 70. Tel 08-31 18 55. Repslagargatan 6.
Café Tabac Map 9 D2.
Stora Nygatan 46. Sturekatten BrewDog Bar Tel 08-640 05 66.
Map 4 B4. Riddargatan 4. St Eriksgatan 56.
Tel 08-10 15 34. Map 3 D4. Map 3 D3. Omnipollo
Tjärhovsgatan 6.
Espresso House Tel 08-611 16 12. Tel 08-650 21 10. Map 9 E3.
Sergels Torg 12. Map 2 C4. Tintarella di Luna Copperfields Tel 073-785 57 41.
Tel 08-21 72 00. St Eriksgatan 36–38.
Drottninggatan 102. Pub Anchor
Gateau Map 2 C3. Map 2 A2. Sveavägen 90.
Sturegallerian. Map 3 D4. Tel 08-10 79 55. Tel 08-654 80 00. Map 2 C2.
Tel 08-519 791 01. The Dubliner Tel 08-15 20 00.
Hotel Diplomat T/Bar Wayne’s Coffee Hollandärgatan 1. Soldaten Svejk
Strandvägen 7 C. Götgatan 31. Map 2 C3. Östgötagatan 35.
Map 3 E4. Map 9 D2. Tel 08-679 77 07. Map 9 D3.
Tel 08-459 68 02. Tel 08-644 45 90. Tel 08-641 33 66.
Lasse i Parken Kungsgatan 14. Limerick Tennstopet
Tegnérgatan 10.
Högalidsgatan 56. Map 3 D4. Map 2 C3. Dalagatan 50.
Map 1 B5. Tel 08-791 00 86. Map 2 A2.
Tel 08-658 33 95. Tel 08-673 43 98. Tel 08-32 25 18.
Vete-Katten Mackinlay’s Inn
Legumes Tudor Arms
Hornsgatan 80. Kungsgatan 55. Fleminggatan 85. Grevgatan 31.
Map 8 B2. Map 2 C4. Map 1 C2. Map 3 F4.
Tel 08-669 35 35. Tel 08-20 84 05. Tel 08-650 83 20. Tel 08-660 27 12.



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174  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
STOCKHOLM

Stockholm is an important city for enter­ music’s great position on the world stage,
tainment. The capital, which was once said which has made it an important export
to have a “cold beauty”, is now a vibrant, item. A wide range of entertainment is on
trend­setting metropolis full of theatres, offer, and the short distance between venues
bars and music venues. International stars is another benefit. The Royal Opera House,
increasingly put Stockholm on their touring for instance, is only a few minutes’ walk from
schedule, not least because of its two the intimate clubs of Gamla Stan. Stockholm
magnificent indoor arenas, Globen and also has a rich cultural life with concerts,
Tele2Arena. Another factor is Swedish pop drama and exhibitions.

Booking Tickets
Tickets for events can usually be
bought at the ticket office of the
relevant venue. But to be sure of
a seat, it is advisable to book in
advance either with the help of
your hotel or the Stockholm
Visitors Board’s Visitor Centre,
located at Kulturhuset, Sergels
Torg 5. You can also use one of
the city’s ticket agencies, for
example Ticnet, which can make
bookings by telephone for the-
atres, concerts, sporting events
Kungliga Operan (Royal Opera House), Gustav II Adolfs Torg (see p66) and excursions. A booking fee of
10–45 kr is charged depending
on the price of the ticket.
Entertainment Listings (see p191) has an official
Daily newspapers offer detailed “tourist site” (www.visit Swedish Music
information on forth coming stockholm.com), which is
events; this is printed either constantly updated with Sweden is one of the world’s
in a special section or in detailed information and leading music exporters. No
weekend supple ments; includes some useful links. matter the musical genre, you
note, however, that this For a wealth of information will find Swedish artists who
information is only in Swedish. about entertainment and have achieved international
The Internet has several events in Stockholm, including success. Bands including ABBA
good sites with up-to-date museums, restaurants and and Roxette paved the way for
details on special events. concerts, visit www.alltom artists such as Robyn and
Stockholm Visitor Centre stockholm.se. Another useful songwriters such as Mike Snow,
website is www. who has delivered hits for the
eventful.com, likes of Lady Gaga, Madonna
where you can and Britney Spears.
browse upcoming
entertainment
options such as Outdoor Concerts
and Festivals
concerts, festivals,
kids’ events Major outdoor events get under
and nightlife. way in mid-May with the annual
A fourth extremely Kungsträdgården programme.
useful and user- This includes a wide variety of
friendly site on music with regular lunchtime and
entertainment in evening concerts. In the second
the Swedish capital week of June the Slottsgalorna
is www.ticnet.se. event takes place at Ulriksdals
Information on all Slott with international stars and
Stampen, in Stora Nygatan, one of Stockholm’s four websites is at the country’s top musicians.
great jazz clubs (see p179) least partly in English. Skansen stages a wide range of




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
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ENTER T AINMENT IN ST OCKHOLM  175


DIRECTORY
Events Listings
Stockholm
Visitor Centre
Kulturhuset, Sergels
Torg 5, Stockholm.
Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-508 28 508.
∑ visitstockholm.com
Other good Internet sites:
∑ alltomstockholm.se
∑ eventful.com
A sea of people at the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra’s annual outdoor concert in August
∑ ticnet.se
music, especially in July, with jazz It is replaced by night buses. Ticket Bookings
on Monday eve nings. The Several night buses depart from
Stockholm Jazz Festival is held Sergels Torg, and most bus Ticnet
on Skeppsholmen in mid-July, stops have maps showing the Tel 077-170 70 70.
and attracts the big names in jazz night routes. Taxis are not ∑ ticnet.se
and blues. usually difficult to find, even on
For classical music lovers, the a Saturday evening (see p201). Stockholm
Royal Philharmonic Orchestra’s for Children
outdoor concert at Sjöhistoriska
(National Maritime Museum) on Stockholm for Children Fjäderholmarna p152
the second Sunday in August is Compared with many major Gröna Lund p97
one of the summer’s highlights. cities, Stockholm is an extremely Junibacken p90
The concert is an annual child-friendly place and ideal for Kulturhuset p69
tradition and attracts audiences family visits.
of 25,000–30,000. It is easy to take prams and Skansen pp100–101
Other events worth attending pushchairs on to the new buses, Medeltidsmuseum p61
include A Taste of Stockholm at and there is plenty of space for Naturhistoriska
Kungsträd gården (first weekend them inside (see also p191). Riksmuseet/Cosmonova p126
in June) and the Czech Culture Most of the museums have Leksaksmuseet p133
and Beer Festival (mid-July). children’s corners with special Vasamuseet pp94–6
activities. Museums and other
important sights often have a
Night-Time Transport cafeteria or restaurant with
The Tunnelbana stops around special menus or smaller
3:30am Sunday to Thursday portions for children. Toilets The open-air museum Skansen,
nights, but on Friday and with a baby-changing table with all its animals and exciting
Saturday nights it runs until 4am. are frequently available. activities, can keep a family
Many of the favou- happily occupied for a whole day.
rite places for child ren Special children’s weeks are
are on Djur gården. organized on Fjäderholmarna,
Junibacken has an a group of islands that can be
exciting journey reached from the city centre in
through the fantastic only 25 minutes.
world of the children’s Leksaksmuseet (the Toy
author Astrid Museum) on Söder is a
Lindgren. The nearby safe bet for children. At
Vasamuseet is also Medeltidsmuseum children
child-friendly. For can experience what life was
decades the Gröna like in Stockholm in the Middle
Lund funfair has Ages. In the city centre
been a mixture of Kulturhuset has a variety
traditional and of children’s activities with
exciting modern a cultural content.
attractions, making Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet
it an ideal excursion (Museum of Natural History)
for families with houses the Cosmonova planet-
both teenagers and arium and IMAX cinema, which
Gröna Lund’s roller coaster younger children. is a big attraction for children.




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176  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Drama and Classical Music for new Swedish and foreign
drama. Marionetteatern has
Scandinavia has a long-standing devotion to arts patronage. puppet shows for both children
When the classical arts such as opera, ballet, and theatre came and adults, along with a puppet
to Stockholm in the 18th century, grand performance venues museum on the same premises.
began to be built. As a result, Stockholm has produced first- Pantomimteatern is a theatre
company which performs not
class international artists such as composer Franz Berwald and only in Stock holm but tours
dancer Nathalie Nordquist. While the traditional arts continue rural areas, too.
to flourish, an unusually high percentage of the world’s top Light-hearted plays are often
pop artists originate in Stockholm. The Stockholm cultural staged at China-Teatern, and its
scene has never been more expressive. programmes include some
highly popular musicals and
some much-loved plays for
children. High-quality musicals
Ballet and Dance
near Ulriksdal (see p127). are also performed at Oscars-
Classical ballet of the highest Between June and September Teatern, Göta Lejon and Cirkus.
quality is mainly staged at the weekly opera and ballet
over 100-year-old Kungliga performances are held here.
Operan (see pp66–7). Every Another genre of classical opera Classical Music
season three of the best-known is staged at Folkoperan, which World-standard classical music
ballets, for example The performs the classics in Swedish is regularly performed at
Nutcracker, Swan Lake and Romeo and without elaborate scenery. Berwaldhallen (see p108). The
and Juliet, are performed to SpaghettiOperan Regina is a hall is dedicated to the great
packed houses. Thanks to the late rebuilt cinema where audiences Swedish composer Franz Berwald
choreographer Birgit Cullberg, can dine in comfort while (1796–1868) and is home to
Stockholm has also become a enjoying the opera. the Swedish Radio Symphony
noted centre for modern dance. Orchestra, which has thrived
Many established dance under musical directors such as
companies make guest Theatres and Musicals Sergiu Celibidache and Esa-Pekka
appearances at Dansens Hus (see Stockholm has a flourishing Salonen. The Swedish Radio
p71), which has taken over the theatrical life, but perform- Chorus, which is regarded as one
previous home of Stadsteatern. ances are usually in Swedish. of the world’s great a cappella
Moderna Dansteatern in the old Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern, ensembles, is based here, too.
torpedo factory on Skepps- often known simply as Concerts are also given in the hall
holmen is another important “Dramaten” (see pp74–5), is by other symphony orchestras
stage for modern dance. Sweden’s national theatre and and smaller ensembles.
has five stages. Internat ional Konserthuset (see p70) is the
and Swedish classics are home of the Royal Stockholm
Opera
regularly performed here, from Philharmonic Orchestra, an
Traditional productions in their Shakespeare to Strind berg, as internationally acclaimed 100-
original language are staged well as modern foreign and piece ensemble whose season
mainly at Kungliga Operan. Swedish produc tions. Ingmar runs from August to May. Its
Lunchtime operas or concerts Bergman was the theatre’s programme includes a couple of
are sometimes per formed in the director from 1963–6, and he chamber music series and a jazz
Gustav III opera café. During the has returned as an acclaimed series, as well as performances
summer, major operas are guest director many times for families on Saturdays. An
presented at Drottningholms since then. annual composition festival is
Slottsteater (see pp146–49). Södra Teatern (see p130) often held every November.
Dating from the 18th century, presents modern pro ductions Musikaliska (see p85) was
the theatre’s stage settings and despite having roots that go formerly the home of the Musical
scene-shifting machinery are back to the 19th century. Academy. Apart from July and
preserved in their original Stockholms Stads teater, based August, its large hall is now used
condition and are still in good in Kulturhuset (see p69), has a almost daily for concerts. In
working order. All the operas widely varied programme. A addition to classical music, you
performed here are also from summer speci ality is the popular can hear performances of jazz,
the 18th century, and over the series of Parkteatern productions choral music and folk music.
years the theatre has revived in several of the city’s parks with Music at the Palace is an
several unknown works by drama, dance and children’s annual summer series at the
Mozart, using instruments theatre. Judiska Teatern has a Royal Palace (see pp50–53) with
typical of that era. The theatre repertoire of new Jewish drama, two concerts every week,
is open for guided tours. as well as dance, poetry and film usually classical music but
Sweden’s oldest Rococo shows. Teater Galeasen is sometimes other styles. The
theatre, Confidencen, is located Stockholm’s avant-garde stage concerts are normally staged in




176-177_EW_Stockholm.indd 176 19/09/17 12:01 pm

ENTER T AINMENT IN ST OCKHOLM  177


the Hall of State or the Royal is particularly fostered at gården (see p66) every Saturday
Chapel. The majestic staircase of Skansen (see pp100–101), at 3pm. Afternoon concerts
National museum (see pp84–5) is where fiddlers and folk dance usually take place in Storkyrkan
the setting for summer concerts, teams play a major role in the (see p55) on Saturday and Sunday
although it is closed for renova- various festivals held there (see during spring and autumn.
tion till 2018. Riddarhusmusik pp28–31). Folk music is also on
at Riddar huset (see p60) is a series the pro gramme at Musikaliska.
by the Stockholm Sinfonietta. Concerts are regularly given Booking Tickets
in the city’s churches, for Tickets for Stockholm’s theatres
example visitors can relax and and concert halls can be
Folk and Church Music enjoy beautiful church music booked through Ticnet; directly
Rural folk music still flourishes in the tranquil surroundings at the relevant box office; or
in the capital, and this tradition of Jacobs Kyrka in Kungsträd- ordered by telephone (see p175).
DIRECTORY
Ballet and Dance ∑ folkoperan.se Map 7 E2. Teater Galeasen
Tickets on sale from Tel 08-660 02 71. Slupskjulsvägen 32,
Dansens Hus Kulturdireckt, Sergels ∑ judiskateatern.se Skeppsholmen.
Barnhusgatan 12–14. Torg and Stockholm Map 5 E2.
Map 2 C3. Tourist Centers. Kungliga Dramatiska Tel 08-611 00 30.
Tel 08-508 990 90. Teatern ∑ galeasen.se
∑ dansenshus.se SpaghettiOperan Nybroplan. Map 3 E4.
Tickets on sale: 2–6pm Regina Tel 08-667 06 80. Classical Music
Tue–Fri, three hours Drottninggatan 71 A. ∑ dramaten.se
before performances Map 2 C3. Tickets on sale: noon–7pm Berwaldhallen
Sat & Sun. Tel 08-411 63 20. Tue–Sun (to 4pm Sun). Dag Hammarskjölds
∑ regina-stockholm.se Väg 3.
Moderna Tickets on sale: noon– Marionetteatern Map 6 A2.
Dansteatern 6pm Tue–Sat. Sergels Torg. Tel 08-784 18 00.
Slupskjulsvägen 30, Map 2 C4. ∑ berwaldhallen.se
Skeppsholmen. Theatre Tel 08-506 202 00.
Map 5 E2. ∑ kulturhusetstads Konserthuset
Tel 08-611 14 56. China-Teatern teatern.se/ Teater/ Hötorget 8.
∑ moderna Berzelii Park 9. Marionetteatern Map 2 C4.
dansteatern.se Map 3 D4. Oscars-Teatern Tel 08-506 677 88.
Tickets on sale: from Tel 08-566 323 50. Kungsgatan 63. ∑ konserthuset.se
Dansteatern/home page. ∑ chinateatern.se Map 2 B4. Music at the Palace
Tickets on sale:
Ballet, Dance and 11am–6pm Mon–Fri. Tel 08-20 50 00. The Royal Palace,
∑ oscarsteatern.se
Slottsbacken.
Opera Cirkus Map 4 C2.
Djurgårdsslätten 43–45. Pantomimteatern
Kungliga Operan Map 6 A4. S:t Eriksgatan 84. Musikaliska
Gustav Adolfs Torg. Tel 08-660 10 20 (tickets). Map 1 C1. Tel 08-31 54 64. Nybrokajen 11.
Map 4 B1. ∑ cirkus.se ∑ pantomimteatern. Map 4 C1.
Tel 08-791 43 00; ∑ ticnet.se com Tel 08-407 16 00.
08-791 44 00 (tickets). Tickets on sale: 2–4pm ∑ musikaliska.com
∑ operan.se (phone). Box office only Parkteatern
Tickets on sale: noon–5pm open during events. Tel 08-506 201 00. Nationalmuseum
Mon–Sat (to 3pm Sat). Stockholms Södra,
Closed 6 Jul–10 Aug. Blasieholmshamnen.
Stadsteater
Opera Drottningholms Sergels Torg. Map 5 D2.
Slottsteater Map 2 C4. Tel 08-519 543 00.
Confidencen Drottningholm Palace, Tel 08-506 201 00. ∑ nationalmuseum.se
Ulriksdals Slottsteater. Lovön. ∑ stadsteatern. Riddarhusmusik
Tel 08-85 70 16. Tel 08-556 931 00. stockholm.se Riddarhuset,
∑ confidencen.se ∑ dtm.se
Tickets on sale: noon– Riddarhustorget 10.
Drottningholms Göta Lejon 7pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Map 4 A3.
Slottsteater Götgatan 55. Sat & Sun. Tel 08-723 39 90.
Drottningholm Palace, Map 9 D3. Södra Teatern ∑ riddarhuset.se
Lovön. Tel 08-556 931 00. Tel 08-505 290 00. Mosebacke Torg 1–3.
∑ dtm.se ∑ gotalejon.se Map 9 D2. Central Ticket
Tickets on sale: 11am– Agency
Folkoperan Tel 08-531 994 90.
Hornsgatan 72. Map 8 B2. 6pm Mon–Fri (to 4pm Sat). ∑ sodrateatern.com Ticnet
Tel 08-616 07 00; Judiska Teatern Tickets on sale: Tel 077 170 70 70.
08-616 07 50 (tickets). Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 59. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. ∑ ticnet.se
176-177_EW_Stockholm.indd 177 19/09/17 12:01 pm

178  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Nightlife and Entertainment Operabaren is a sight in itself
with well­preserved Jugendstil
In common with most capitals, Stockholm has a rich variety decor, marble tables and leather
of nightlife and entertainment, with something for everyone. sofas. The regu lars often include
Pop music is one of the country’s biggest exports, so there is authors, artists and intellectuals.
no shortage of groups following in the footsteps of ABBA. Erik’s Gondolen at the top of
Katarinahissen (see p129) offers
Top-class musical entertainment is provided on a large scale arguably the most beautiful
in Globen or on a smaller, more intimate basis in the pubs, view of Stockholm and is a
clubs and bars. The Swedish jazz scene thrives in several perfect place for a drink at sunset.
venues where live music is played nightly. It has comfortable leather
armchairs, skilled bartenders
and a relaxing atmosphere. Sky
Bar, high up in the Royal Viking
Rock and Pop around the archipelago four times Hotel, has a panoramic view of
Stockholm’s Globen is the city’s a week. The annual Stockholm the city, seen at its best after
biggest stage for rock and pop Jazz Festival hosts up­and­ dark when the lights come on.
music. It attracts all the biggest coming artists as well as interna­ Absolut Icebar Stockholm,
international artists as well as tional stars. See www.stockholm located in the Nordic Sea Hotel,
leading Swedish groups. Cirkus jazz.com for more details. is the world’s first permanent
and Södra Teatern (see pp 130 & ice bar. All of the interior fittings
176) are other favourite venues Music Pubs are made of pure ice. The bar
for rock and pop, and they stage can cater for up to 30 people
both musical and theatrical pro­ Life in Stockholm’s pubs and bars at a time. Sturehof Bar is a
ductions in beautiful settings. has changed in recent years as a sophisticated and modern
Münchenbryggeriet, a former number of establishments have nightspot, particularly popular
brewery, also provides a great introduced live music. Irish with people from the
venue. Hard rock enthusiasts are bands often play at The Dubliner advertising and media worlds
well­catered for at Pub Anchor (see p172), and live music is also and other local night owls.
three or four times a week. performed at the Engelen and
Debaser is Sweden’s biggest Akkurat pubs. Engelen has
club scene for pop and rock. a variety of music, while the Nightclubs and Casinos
Based in three locations across accent is on rock at Akkurat. Most of Stockholm’s best
the city, the club has attracted Apart from these musical nightclubs are located around
the likes of Bob Dylan, The watering holes, there are plenty Stureplan (see pp72–3). The
Strokes, Bright Eyes and of traditional British and Irish pubs traditional disco evenings are
Sweden’s very own, The Ark. in the capital, generally with a Friday and Saturday, and on
Tele2 Arena is a state­of­the­ wide choice of beer and whisky other days of the week they are
art arena that opened in 2013 and snack meals (see pp172–3). often hired by various clubs
and has since hosted two of the providing particular styles of
top football clubs in Sweden. music. The nightlife scene is
Artists such as The Rolling Bars changing all the time as new
Stones, Aerosmith and Avicii The best bars are usually found in clubs come and go. Café Opera,
have also performed here. hotels and restaurants, but Stockholm’s most historic
those in the latter are often noisier. international­class nightclub, is
The most fashionable tend to located to the rear of Kungliga
Jazz Music have a long queue, supervised Operan (see pp66–7). It has a
A wide choice of jazz can be by a doorman. For a quieter mixed clientele of both the
found in Stockholm. Fasching atmosphere with comfortable young and trendy and a more
Jazzklubb has an international armchairs, hotel bars are the best soberly dressed older
reputation for good music with bet. The minimum age for generation. Sturecompagniet is
performances virtually every day buying alcohol is 18, a large disco on several floors
of the week. Another classic jazz and young customers must be which also has a rock bar at
spot is Gamla Stan’s Stampen, prepared to show proof of age. street level. Fasching Jazzklubb
which attracts a rather older The Cadier Bar in the has soul from the 1960s and
clientele. Nalen holds frequent Grand Hôtel (see pp81 & 160) 1970s on Saturdays. Spy Bar is
jazz events, and usually provides undoubtedly has the most the place to rub shoulders with
live music to dance to on Sundays. elegant clientele, and this is Swedish celebrities and inter­
Glenn Miller Café has a cosy where the rich and famous stay. national artists on tour. However,
atmosphere, with jazz nightly From the verandah there is a fine it is often crowded and a member­
from Monday to Saturday. During view of the Royal Palace and the ship card may be necessary.
the summer the vintage steam­ archipelago boats, and in the Ambassaduer is another “in” place
boat SS Blidösund (see p145) background gentle music is with a fashion­conscious clientele.
operates special jazz cruises played on the white grand piano. The younger generation enjoy




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ENTER T AINMENT IN ST OCKHOLM  179


dancing to a variety of music artists. Wallmans Salonger their own language. Films in
at Debaser Medis. In the city offers musical entertainment languages other than English
centre is Casino Cosmopol, provided by the waiters and are usually screened at
Stockholm’s first casino. waitresses along with the food. Zita, and Sture is also a good
venue for cineastes. There are
both classic cinemas such as
Cabarets Film Rigoletto, showing quality
Good food and top-class Films are not dubbed into international drama, and
entertainment are on the Swedish, so non-Swedish multi-screen com plexes
menu at Hamburger Börs, speak ing visitors can more including Filmstaden Sergel,
which features cabaret shows often than not go to a cinema which screens most of the
performed by leading Swedish and enjoy a film that is in current Hollywood repertoire.
DIRECTORY
Rock and Pop Glenn Miller Café Bars Debaser Medis
Brunnsgatan 21 A. Medborgarplatsen 8.
Cirkus Map 3 D3. Absolut Icebar Map 9 D3.
Djurgårdsslätten 43. Tel 08-10 03 22. Stockholm Tel 08-694 79 00.
Map 6 A4. Open 5pm–1am Mon– Vasaplan 4. Map 2 B4. Open 5pm–midnight
Tel 08-660 10 20. Thu, 5pm–2am Fri & Sat, Tel 08-505 635 20. Mon–Sat (from 4pm Fri).
6pm–1am Sun. Cadier Bar Fasching Jazzklubb
Debaser Music from 8pm. Kungsgatan 63.
Medborgarplatsen 8. Grand Hôtel, Södra Map 2 B4.
Blasieholmshamnen 8.
Map 9 D3. Nalen Tel 08-20 00 06.
Regeringsgatan 74. Map 4 C1.
Karl Johans Torg 1. Map 3 D3. Tel 08-679 35 00. Open Soul club:
Map 4 C4. Tel 08-505 292 01. Erik’s Gondolen midnight–4am Sat.
Hornstulls Strand 4. Stampen Stadsgården 6. Spy Bar
Map 4 C3. Stora Nygatan 5. Map 4 C5. Birger Jarlsgatan 20.
Tel 08-462 98 60. Map 4 B3. Tel 08-20 57 93. Tel 08-641 70 90. Map 3 D3.
Tel 08-545 076 00.
Globen Open 5pm–1am Mon & Operabaren Open 10pm–5am
Globentorget 2. Tue, 5pm–2am Wed–Fri, Kungsträdgården. Wed–Sat.
Tel 0771 31 00 00. 3km (2 2pm–2am Sat. Map 4 B1. Sturecompagniet
miles) S of Stockholm. SS Blidösund Tel 08-676 58 00. Sturegatan 4. Map 3 D3.
Skeppsbron 10. Tel 08-545 076 10.
Münchenbryggeriet Map 4 C2. Tel 08-24 30 90. Sky Bar Open 11pm–5am
Torkel Knutssonsg 2. Open mid-May–Oct: Vasagatan 1. Thu–Sat.
Map 8 B1. boat departing at 6:30pm Map 2 B4.
Tel 08-658 20 00; Mon–Thu. Tel 08-506 540 00. Cabarets
for tickets: 0771 707070. Sturehof Bar Hamburger Börs
Music Pubs Stureplan 2.
Pub Anchor Map 3 D4. Jakobsgatan 6.
Sveavägen 90. Akkurat Tel 08-440 57 30. Map 3 D5.
Map 2 C2. Hornsgatan 18. Map 8 C2. Tel 08-787 85 00.
Tel 08-15 20 00. Tel 08-644 00 15. Nightclubs and Wallmans Salonger
Open 3pm–3am daily. Open 11am–1am Tue–Fri, Casinos Teatergatan 3.
11am–midnight Mon, Map 3 E5.
Södra Teatern 3pm–1am Sat, 6pm–1am Ambassaduer Tel 0771-13 43 00.
Mosebacke Torg 1–3. Sun. Kungsgatan 18.
Map 9 D2. Map 3 D4. Film
Tel 08-531 994 90. The Dubliner Tel 08-545 076 00.
Holländargatan 1. Filmstaden Sergel
Tele2 Arena Map 2 C3. Tel 08-679 77 07. Open 10pm–4am Hötorget. Map 2 C4.
Fri & Sat.
Arenaslingan 14. Open 4pm–midnight Tel 08-562 600 00.
Tel 07-131 00 00. 3km Mon & Tue, 4pm–1am Café Opera Rigoletto
(2 miles) S of Stockholm. Wed & Thu, 2pm–3am Operahuset, Kungsgatan 16.
Fri, noon–3am Sat, Kungsträd gården. Map 2 B4.
Jazz 1–10pm Sun. Map 4 B1. Tel 08-562 600 00.
Music from 10pm daily. Tel 08-676 58 07. Sture
Fasching Jazzklubb Engelen Open 10pm–3am Birger Jarlsgatan 41.
Kungsgatan 63. Kornhamnstorg 59 B. Wed–Sun. Map 3 D3.
Map 2 B4. Map 4 B4. Casino Cosmopol Tel 08-562 948 80.
Tel 08-20 00 06. Tel 08-20 10 92. Kungsgatan 65. Zita
Open 6pm–midnight Open 5pm–midnight Mon Map 2 B4. Birger Jarlsgatan 37.
Mon–Thu & Sun, & Tue, 5pm–3am Wed– Tel 08-781 88 00. Map 3 D3.
6pm–4am Fri–Sat. Sat, 5pm–12:30am Sun. Open 1pm–5am daily. Tel 08-23 20 20.

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180  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

As a city built around water and with the around 80 golf courses are open to visitors,
countryside reaching into the centre, as well as well-planned jogging and cycle
Stockholm is ideally positioned for all kinds tracks. Outdoor swimming pools are popular
of open-air pursuits. The great outdoors plays on hot summer days, and in winter long-
an important role in the Swedish lifestyle, distance skating between the islands and
and the capital offers a plethora of activities cross-country and downhill skiing are the
throughout the year – for the energetic and things to do.
not so energetic – from walking, cycling and In many cases, it is simple to make your
ice-skating to fishing, skiing and hot-air own contacts, but the Stockholm Visitor
ballooning. In spring, summer and autumn Centre (see p191) will be able to advise you.


Skansen open-air museum
(see pp100–101) or the Gröna
Lund amusement park (see p97),
both suitable for the whole
family, providing a day out in
the open air.
Djurgården has plenty of
cycle paths, and bicycles can
be hired from Cykel Moped-
uthyrningen or Stockholm
City Bikes (see p205), which has
locations all over Stockholm.
Roller-blades can also be hired
near the bridge.
Cyclists planning to take
a longer tour should visit Visit
Stockholm and ask to be put in
touch with the Cykelfrämjandet
Hagaparken (see pp124–5), an inviting area for exercise and recreation cycling organization.
Jogging, Walks parks and modern shopping
and Cycling Horse Riding
malls. A walk in Stockholm
It can be both practical and always takes you close to the Several riding schools near
rewarding to take some exercise water or some unusual sight. the city centre, such as
while exploring the capital. The organized walks in the city Stockholms Ridhus, offer
Everything in the city centre is are usually conducted in lessons. For those who prefer
within easy walking distance, Swedish, but there are also tours to discover Stockholm’s
including major sights, beautiful of Gamla Stan with Eng lish- surrounding areas, tours on
speaking guides. Contact Visit Icelandic ponies are operated
Stockholm for advice on a route. from quite a few stables.
Even if you want to head Häståkeriet leads tours of
out of the city centre, there experienced riders through
is no need to travel far. The Stockholm’s pedestrianized
No. 7 streetcar goes out to streets, as well as to the scenic
Djurgården, where you can urban island of Djurgården.
have a walk or jog along the
shores, through the avenues
under the oak trees, or over Water Sports
green fields. Walking paths There are excellent oppor-
along the city’s waterfronts tunities for water sports. Canoes,
(see pp42–3) provide both rowing boats, pedalos and
good routes and stunning larger boats for longer tours, can
views. There are many floodlit be hired from Tvillingarnas
jogging tracks, and plenty of Båtuthyrning near Djurgårdsbron.
fun-run events to choose A good area for canoeing is the
from (see pp28–31). canal near Djurgården (see
Fishing at Blasieholmskajen in the centre of Those who prefer to move pp86–101), where Djurgårds-
the city at a gentler pace can head for brons Sjöcafé hires out canoes.




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES  181

Swimming DIRECTORY
During the summer there are
plenty of outdoor swimming Horse Riding
pools to choose from. They Häståkeriet
include Eriksdalsbadet in Greve von Essens väg 63.
Södermalm, Kampements badet Tel 08­570 277 98.
at Gärdet and Smedsuddsbadet ∑ hastakeriet.se
at Rålambshov Park Beach. There Stockholms Ridhus
are several good places for a Storängsvägen 29. Map 3 F1.
swim along the Kungsholmen Tel 0703­10 29 30.
shores of Riddarfjärden. And Open 1–2pm Mon–Fri.
on Långholmen there are ∑ stockholmsridhus.se
both sandy beaches or rocks Outdoor swimming in Stockholm
to swim from (see p134). Water Sports
For a completely different centre near the Royal Palace. and Fishing
bathing experience, try the Suitable tackle can be hired at Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé
Japanese Yasuragi at Hassel­ Naturkompaniet. Sportfiskarna Galävarvsvägen 2.
udden. For indoor pools, try Stockholm can provide Tel 08­660 57 57.
Centralbadet (see p71) or information on fishing in ∑ sjocafeet.se
Sturebadet (see p73). and around Stockholm. Naturkompaniet
Outdoor tennis courts are S:t Paulsgatan 2–4. Map 8 C2.
available at several places, in­
Golf cluding Kungliga Lawn Tennis- Tel 08­20 03 42.
Golfers will find about 80 golf hallen, where the Stockholm Sportfiskarna Stockholm
Tel 08­410 806 80
courses within easy reach of Open ATP indoor tournament (10am–3pm Tue & Wed).
the city centre. The closest, is held every November.
such as Djursholms Golfklubb, You can also go scuba­diving Tvillingarnas Båtuthyrning
are in delightful settings. around Stockholm. Contact Visit Strandvägen 27.
The courses are popular, Stockholm for details of diving Tel 08­660 37 14.
and advance bookings are schools and equipment hire. Swimming
recommended. Golf information Ice­skaters are in their ele ment
is available on Stockholm once the open waters of the Eriksdalsbadet
tourist board’s website archipelago have frozen over. Hammarby Slussv. 8. Map 9 D5.
(www.visitstockholm.com). Meanwhile, the artificial rink Tel 08­508 402 58.
at Kungsträdgården is open Kampementsbadet
throughout the winter, and Sandhamnsgatan (Gärdet).
Other Activities hires out skates. Tel 08­508 411 78.
Brightly coloured hot­air balloons The outdoor activities orga­ Open 18 May–18 Aug.
hovering over the city are a com­ nization Friluftsfrämjandet Yasuragi
mon sight in the evening. Several provides information on skating Hasseludden Konferens & Yasuragi.
com panies operate charter trips and skiing in the area. @ 35­min journey from Slussen.
in balloons. You can book via Visitors with disablities can Tel 08­747 64 00. Open
Visit Stockholm or directly with find out more about the avail­ 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm
a company such as Far & Flyg. ability of outdoor pursuits by Sat & Sun. ∑ yasuragi.se
Game fishing for salmon and contacting De Handikappades Golf
trout is possible right in the city Riksförbund (see p191).
Djursholms Golfklubb
Hagbardsvägen, Djursholm.
Tel 08­544 964 50.
∑ dgk.nu
Other Activities
Far & Flyg
Gröndalvägen 38.
Tel 08­645 77 00.
∑ farochflyg.se
Kungliga Lawn Tennishallen
Lidingövägen.
Tel 08­459 15 00.
∑ kltk.se
Friluftsfrämjandet
Tel 08­447 44 40.
∑ friluftsframjandet.se
One of Stockholm’s many golf courses




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182  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN STOCKHOLM

Stockholm is worth visiting for the shopping Gamla Stan is a good place for handicrafts and
alone. All the best shops in the central area unusual knick-knacks. Södermalm and Vasastan
are within easy walking distance and they have antiques and second-hand shops.
stock virtually everything anyone could want. Cameras, mobile telephones, furs, children’s
There are plenty of small boutiques for clothing, toys and Swedish glass are cheaper
fashion and interiors, as well as antiques in Sweden than in most other countries. No
shops, luxury international designer outlets expedition is complete without a visit to one
and well-stocked department stores. of the city’s splendid market halls, which sell
Shopping is good all over the city. Exclusive Swedish delicacies including reindeer and
shops can be found in fashionable Östermalm. moose meat, caviar and cloudberries.

Opening Times or-return basis, providing that
Most shops usually open at this is noted on the receipt.
10am and close at 6pm,
although many in the city Value Added Tax
centre remain open until 7pm.
Most shops are open until 2pm Value added tax (“moms” in
on Saturdays, and the major Swedish) is charged on all
department stores stay open items except daily newspapers.
until 5pm. Large stores, The VAT rate is 25%, except on
shopping malls and a number food, for which the rate is only
of shops in central Stockholm 12%. VAT is always included in
are open on Sundays. Market the total price.
halls are closed on Sundays and
public holidays. Larger super- Tax-Free Shopping
markets are open daily until 8pm.
Residents of countries out Biblioteksgatan, an attractive shopping
side the European Union are street in Stockholm
Payment
entitled to a refund of the
All the main credit cards and VAT they have paid on their Sales
travellers’ cheques are accepted purchases. Tax-free shopping Twice a year Stockholm’s shops
in most shops. If you pay by with Global Refund gives visi tors and department stores have
card, you may be asked for a cash refund of 15–18 per cent sales with reduced prices on
proof of identity; many shops on their departure from the EU. clothing, shoes and other
require a PIN number. Goods Look for the “Tax-free shopping” fashion goods. Sales are
can be exchanged, if you sign. Global Refund is at all indicated by the rea sign.
produce the receipt. Purchases departure points, including The year’s first sales start
can usually be made on a sale- Arlanda Airport. after Christmas and continue
throughout January. The
second sales period lasts
from late June to the end
of July.
Shopping Centres and
Department Stores
Stockholm’s best-known
superstore is IKEA, which has
become a popular tourist
attraction in its own right. It
sells not just furniture but also
everything else for the home,
and all at attractive prices. The
textiles section is parti cularly
good, as well as the kitchenware
and porcelain departments.
IKEA’s store is located outside
the city but is easy to reach
NK, Stockholm’s most exclusive department store by a free shuttle bus from




182-183_EW_Stockholm.indd 182 19/09/17 12:02 pm

SHOPPING IN ST OCKHOLM  183


DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres and
Department Stores
Cervera
Svavägen 24 .
Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-10 45 30.
∑ cervera.se
Fältöversten
Karlaplan 13.
Nordiska Kristall, a major outlet for Swedish glass in Stockholm Map 3 F3.
Tel 08-696 33 69.
Regeringsgatan 13 to Kungens Åhlens department store in ∑ faltoverstencentrum.se
Kurva, hourly on weekdays from City, Vasastaden, Kungs holmen
10am to 5pm. and Östermalm, as well as Gallerian
Another well-known store some suburbs. Hamngatan 37.
is the fashion house H&M There are several indoor Map 3 D4.
Tel 073-531 94 96.
(Hennes & Mauritz), which has shopping malls. Gallerian on ∑ gallerian.se
branches in many Euro pean Hamngatan is the largest, and
cities and several outlets in the prices are lower than in the H&M
Stockholm. H&M stocks the elegant Sturegallerian near Hamngatan 22.
latest fashions at low prices. Stureplan with its many trendy Map 3 D4.
It has its own designers and boutiques. There are also Tel 08-524 635 30.
makes clothing for women, shopping centres in most Sergels Torg 12.
men, teenagers and children. suburbs where nearly all the Map 2 C4.
The shops also sell accessories, retail chains are represented. Tel 08-796 54 46.
jewellery, underwear, perfume ∑ hm.com
and cosmetics. IKEA
Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) Markets Kungens Kurva, Skärholmen.
on Hamngatan is Stockholm’s A traditional Christmas market Tel 08-744 83 60.
leading department store, is held at Skansen (see pp100– Järfälla, Folkungavägen 50.
where many well-known names 101) every Sunday in December. Tel 08-795 40 00.
in fashion and cosmetics have Stortorget in Gamla Stan (see ∑ ikea.se
their own shops. NK also stocks p56) also has a delightful market NK
Swedish-designed products, at Christmas. Hamngatan 18–20.
jewellery, handicrafts and Vegetables, fruit and flowers Map 3 D4.
souvenirs as well as cameras, are sold from Monday to Tel 08-762 80 00.
films, books and CDs. Friday at Hötorget (see p70), ∑ nk.se
PUB on Hötorget is another Östermalmstorg (see p73) PUB
established department store and Medborgarplatsen (see Hötorget. Map 3 C4.
with a wide selection of goods. p133). Street stalls along Tel 08-789 19 30.
The Cervera boutique chain Drottning gatan and around ∑ pub.se
has a good choice of table Sergels Torg sell watches, clocks,
coverings and decorations, toys and other knick-knacks. Sturegallerian
both classic and modern. Stockholm’s flea market, Grev Turegatan 9. Map 3 D4.
Most shopping items can be Skärholmens Loppmarknad, Tel 08-453 50 00.
purchased inexpensively at offers a wide variety of clothes, ∑ sturegallerian.se
practical objects and bric-a-brac Åhléns
for sale. Klarabergsgatan 50. Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-676 60 00.
Wines and Spirits Fridhemsplan. Map 1 B2.
Tel 08-617 97 00.
The only shops selling Odenplan. Map 2 B2.
alco hol in Sweden are run Tel 08-728 53 00.
by Systembolaget, the State ∑ ahlens.com
monopoly chain. They are open
Monday to Friday 10am–6pm Markets
(some open on Saturdays Skärholmens Loppmarknad
10am–3pm, but not on a P-huset. Skärholmen.
public holiday weekend). The Tel 08-710 00 60.
minimum age for buying Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri,
Chandeliers and other treasures at one of alcohol at Systembolaget 10am–4pm Sat, 11am–4pm Sun.
Arsenalsgatan’s fine antiques shops shops is 20 (see also p191).




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184  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Stockholm

The Dala wooden horse must be the most typical Swedish
souvenir. But it is facing strong competition from the moose,
which has become a symbol for a country with vast tracts of
unspoilt countryside. The Swedes love the great outdoors, so
there are plenty of shops selling top-class sporting equipment.
Swedish glass and crystal are renowned around the world.
Orrefors and Kosta Boda are just two of several glassworks
producing both classic and modern glassware. Educational toys
in natural materials are a Swedish speciality, as are clogs, which Hand-painted clogs
can be found in many shoe shops.
Handicrafts and Design
Modern Swedish design is a familiar concept in
many households world wide, even for simple
everyday items (see pp40–41). Handicrafts have
a long tradition in Sweden, and contemporary
designers often use wrought-iron work,
weaving, pottery and woodcarving.


Swedish Glass
Hand-blown sets of Dala Horse and Cockerel
glass ware are made in Originally the brightly painted Dala horses and
Sweden’s glassworks, as cockerels were toys carved from left-over
well as artistic crystal fragments of wood. Later the horse became a
creations and beautiful national symbol and is sold in many variants.
objects for everyday use.











Nobel glass carafe from Orrefors Traditional
by Gunnar Cyrén snaps glasses Tray with design by Josef Cheese slicer and knife
Frank, Svenskt Tenn by Michael Björnstierna
Designer Objects
The larger department stores often
commission well-known designers for
porcelain, glass, textiles and household
items, which make highly desirable gifts.
Mama, a humorous clothes hanger







Children’s Toys
Colourful wooden children’s toys from Brio are
Crux rug by Pia Wallén worldwide favourites. Educa tional picture books,
games and puzzles are all excellent gifts for children.




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SHOPPING IN ST OCKHOLM  185

Outdoor Gear Hand Knits
Many Swedes enjoy outdoor pursuits such Caps and gloves with
as fishing, hunting, sailing, golf, camping attractive designs, known
and all types of winter sports, so there are as lovikka, are made from
many well-equipped sports shops around. a special wool that gives
Unique items include Lapp handicrafts good protection in cold
beautifully made from reindeer horn or skin. or wet conditions.







Reindeer Skin Rucksack
Rucksacks are popular for both
adults and children. This exclusive
model is made in Lapland.
Drinking vessel
in carved wood





Spinning Reel and Lures
Lapp Handicrafts ABU-Garcia makes top-quality
A hunting knife with a sheath of rein deer fishing tackle perfect for
horn, or a kåsa, a drinking vessel carved in Sweden’s long coastline,
birch, are not only attractive but useful countless lakes and rivers with
when out walking in the wild. their rich and varied fishing.

Swedish Delicacies
Popular preserves are made from wild berries such as
bitter lingonberries (for meatballs) or sweet cloudberries
(served with whipped cream). Herring, crispbread and
ginger biscuits can be bought in all groceries, and sweets
are sold loose. Snaps miniatures come in gift packs.

Lingonberry preserve Cloudberry jam





Pickled Herring
Pickled herring should be enjoyed with new
potatoes cooked with dill, chopped chives and
crème fraîche. Versions flavoured with mustard, dill
or other herbs or spices are also available.
Swedish snaps gift-pack miniatures








“Raspberry boat” candy Salt liquorice Crispbread Box of ginger biscuits




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186  tr a vellers ’ needs

Where to Shop in Stockholm Sport and Leisure
The Swedes devote a lot of time
Clothing from all the well-known international fashion houses to outdoor sports and activities.
can be found in stockholm, and many have their own shops. Naturkompaniet and Peak
If you want something rather different, it is worth seeking out Performance have an exclusive
the creations of younger swedish fashion designers. swedish selection of sportswear and
equipment. Stadium and
interior design is famous for its clean lines, functionalism and Alewalds have a varied
the use of pale wood, and stockholm is a paradise for anyone choice of sports clothing and
interested in design. Handicrafts are of a high quality. equipment at attractive prices.
leisurewear and sports goods offer excellent value for money. Equipment and exclusive
clothing for hunting or fishing
can be bought at Walter Borg.
Fashion
for interior decoration, with
Stockholm’s top places for fashion both modern and classic
are in the “golden triangle” designs. Nordiska Galleriet has Souvenirs and
Handicrafts
bounded by Sture plan, Nybroplan exclusive modern furniture and
and Norrmalmstorg. Clothing at decoration items, while Georg Glasses for snaps, silver
more moderate prices can be Jensen specia lizes in silver. jewellery, hand-painted clogs,
bought around Sergels Torg. Kaolin, Nutida Svenskt Silver, Lapp (Same) crafts, hand-knitted
If you are looking for Swedish Blås&Knåda and Galleri woollen gloves and caps, hand-
designers, NK has a selection of Metallum stage exhibitions and made candles, traditional
clothing created by younger sell Swedish-designed products. Christmas decorations and
designers as well as mainstream Hand-picked furnishings from wrought-iron products can all
local products. Classic men’s floor to ceiling can be found at be bought in the main depart-
clothing of high quality is Garbo Interior. Orrefors Kosta ment stores. Alternatively you
designed by Oscar Jacobsson, Boda and Nordiska Kristall can go to the Gamla Stan
while Stenström shirts are sold both have a wide choice of shops such as Handkraft Swea.
in department stores and the Swedish glassware, which can Svensk Hemslöjd and the
more elegant menswear also be found at the various various museum gift shops
boutiques. Björn Borg has his department stores. are also good places to shop.
own shops sell ing men’s and Visitors to Skansen (see pp100–
women’s clothing, underwear, 101) can buy handicrafts made
per fume and accessories. Antiques in its shops. Nordic Souvenirs
J Lindeberg produces unusual A large number of antiques shops sells Swedish handicrafts and
fashions for the daring man, can be found along Odengatan, quality souvenirs.
while fashion-conscious young Upplandsgatan and Roslagsgatan
people shop at Sneakersnstuff. in Vasastan. Gamla Stan also has Books
The designer Filippa K many shops offering collectables.
produces smart clothing for Shops selling art, silver and Photography books, cookery
trendy women. Anna Holtblad porcelain of a more exclusive books, books on Swedish
has a good selection of stylish variety are on Arsenalsgatan on design and children’s books
women’s garments, while Thalia Blasieholmen, and also around make good souvenirs to take
in Östermalm has a good range Östermalmstorg. Södermalm has home. Apart from the NK
of exclusive party outfits. small shops selling bric-a-brac. Bookshop and at other
department stores, Heden grens
Bokhandel has a large foreign-
Design and Interior Music and Multimedia languages department. The
Decoration Many Swedish pop bands English Bookshop has a
The city centre, Östermalm and now have an international good selection of books on
Hornsgatan in Söder malm have reputation. Exciting new Stockholm and Sweden in
a number of interior decoration talents continue to find their English, as well as a range of
shops selling the products of way into the charts, and the international newspapers.
young designers and artists. latest products can often be
To see the latest on offer, visit bought in the record shops
DesignTorget, where young before they become available Toys and Baby
Equipment
designers display their work. outside Sweden. Apart from
R.O.O.M on Kungsholmen, pop and rock, Sweden has It is worth buying high-quality
Asplund in Östermalm and a long folk-music tradition, baby prams and pushchairs
Norrgavel in City are just a few as well as many skilled jazz produced by Emmaljunga and
of the most up-to-date shops, musicians and opera singers. baby equipment by Babybjörn.
and they all have a good Pet Sounds has a wide Babyland and Bonti have a
selection of products. Svenskt selection of CDs, as do the wide selection of these and
Tenn is the city’s oldest shop large department stores. other well-made products for




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shopping in st ockholm  187


children. Brio’s wooden toys and Swedish Delicacies delicious culinary souvenirs.
other attractive toys are also The capital has three superb The food sections of the
favourite presents. Bulleribock market halls: Östermalms­ major department stores sell
and BR Leksaker offer a wide hallen, Hötorgshallen and tinned herrings, lingonberry
choice. Practical children’s Söderhallarna. Delicacies or cloudberry jam, crispbread,
clothing can be found at on sale include salmon, bleak gingerbread and sweets, which
Polarn och Pyret or at the roe, smoked eel and smoked also make good presents for the
larger department stores. reindeer meat, which all make gastronomes back home.
DIRECTORY
Fashion Garbo Interior Music and Books
Brahegatan 21. Map 3 E2. Multimedia
Anna Holtblad The English
Grev Turegatan 13. Tel 08-661 60 08. Pet Sounds Bookshop
Map 3 E4. Georg Jensen Skånegatan 53. Map 9 E3. Lilla Nygatan 11.
Tel 08-545 022 20. Map 4 B3.
Birger Jarlsgatan 13. Tel 08-702 97 98.
Björn Borg Map 3 D4. Tel 08-790 55 10.
Sergelg 12. Tel 08-545 040 80. Sport and Leisure Hedengrens
Map 2 C4. Bokhandel
Tel 08-21 70 40. Kaolin Alewalds Stureplan 4. Map 3 D4.
Filippa K Hornsgatan 50. Kungsgatan 32. Tel 08-611 51 28.
Grev Turegatan 18. Map 8 C2. Map 6 D3. NK Bookshop
Map 3 E4. Tel 08-644 46 00. Tel 08-21 90 00. Hamngatan 18–20.
Tel 08-545 882 56. Map 3 D4.
Konsthantverkarna Naturkompaniet Tel 08-762 80 00.
J Lindeberg Södermalmstorg 4. Sveavägen 62.
Biblioteksgatan 6. Map 9 D2, 4 B5. Map 2 C3. Toys and Baby
Map 3 D4. Tel 08-24 30 02. Equipment
Tel 08-400 500 41. Tel 08-611 03 70.
NK Nordiska Galleriet Kungsgatan 26. Babyland
Karlbergsvägen 40.
Map 3 D4.
Hamngatan 18–20. Nybrogatan 11. Map 2 A2.
Map 3 D4. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-24 19 96. Tel 08-555 912 10.
Tel 08-762 80 00. Tel 08-442 83 60. Peak Performance
Sneakersnstuff Nordiska Kristall Biblioteksgatan 18. Bonti
Norrtullsgatan 33.
Åsögatan 124. Map 3 D4. Map 2 B2.
Tel 08-743 03 22. Kungsgatan 9. Tel 08-611 34 00. Tel 08-30 69 16.
Map 3 D4.
Thalia Tel 08-10 43 72. Stadium BR Leksaker
Karlavägen 62. Map 3 E3. Sergelgatan 8. Map 2 C4. Gallerian, Hamngatan 37.
Tel 08-660 54 30. Norrgavel Tel 08-14 09 90. Map 3 D4.
Design and Birger Jarlsgatan 27. Walter Borg Tel 08-545 154 40.
Decoration Map 3 D3. Bulleribock
Tel 08-545 220 50. Kungsgatan 57. Sveavägen 104.
Asplund Map 2 C4. Map 2 C2.
Sibylleg 31. Map 3 E3. Nutida Svenskt Silver Tel 08-14 38 65. Tel 08-673 61 21.
Tel 08-662 52 84. Arsenalsgatan 3. Polarn och Pyret
Blås&Knåda Map 3 D4. Souvenirs and Gallerian,
Hornsgatan 26. Tel 08-611 67 18. Handicrafts Hamngatan 35.
Map 4 B5. Orrefors Kosta Boda Map 3 D4.
Tel 08-642 77 67. Handkraft Swea Tel 08-411 22 47.
Birger Jarlsgatan 15. Västerlånggatan 24.
DesignTorget Map 2 C2. Map 9 D1, 4 B3. Swedish
Kulturhuset, Tel 08-611 91 15. Delicacies
Sergels Torg 3. Tel 08-20 06 36.
Map 2 C4. R.O.O.M Nordic Souvenirs Östermalmshallen
Tel 08-21 91 50. PUB, Plan 03, Högtorget. Hamngatan 27. Östermalmstorg.
Götgatan 31. Map 3 C4. Map 3 D4. Map 3 E4.
Map 9 D2. Tel 08-692 50 00. Tel 08-24 24 70. Hötorgshallen
Tel 08-644 16 78. Hötorget. Map 2 C4.
Svenskt Tenn Svensk Hemslöjd
Galleri Metallum Söderhallarna
Hornsgatan 30. Strandvägen 5. Norrlandsgatan 20. Medborgarplatsen.
Map 4 B5. Map 3 E4. Map 3 D4. Map 9 D3.
Tel 08-640 13 23. Tel 08-670 16 00. Tel 08-23 21 15.


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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 190–197

Getting to Stockholm 198–199
Getting Around
Stockholm 200–205

Stockholm Street Finder 206–215















































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190  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Over the years, Stockholm has become are happy to help tourists. The city’s
one of the most popular tourist dest­ official tourism organization, the
inations in Scandinavia. Its bustling cruise­ Stockholm Visitors Board, provides an
ship terminals and its full event calendar excellent range of services. Stock holm
bring thousands of tourists to the city is a small capital and is generally safe,
each year, while many more come to but it still has its share of pickpockets.
experience the city’s cultural and historical It is therefore wise to take care in the
sites. It is easy to be a foreign visitor in busy shopping areas and when travelling
the city, not least because most Swedes around the city at night.

Visas and Passports
Citizens of virtually all countries
can enter Sweden without a
visa. Since 2001, passports are
not needed by visitors from
European countries that have
signed the Schengen agreement,
as long as they are entering
directly from a Schengen mem­
ber country, although they
will need a government­issued
national ID card. Visitors arriving
from outside the Schengen reg­
ion must carry a valid passport.
Visitors are advised to
check their visa and passport
requirements with their
local Swedish consulate or
embassy prior to travelling.
Inside the Stockholm Visitor Centre at Sergels Torg 5
Travel Safety Advice most questions related to from 10am to 6pm during the
Visitors can get up­to­date sightseeing in the city. Visit week and from 10 or 11am to
travel safety information from What’s On Stockholm’s website 4 or 5pm at weekends.
the Foreign and Commonwealth or their Facebook page for Tickets for theatres, concerts
Office in the UK, the State information about events, and sporting events can be
Department in the US and the culture and other useful links. bought at the venue box
Department of Foreign Affairs Another good source of offices, at the SVB or through
and Trade in Australia. information is The Local, an ticket agencies such as Ticnet
English­language newspaper (see p174).
with cultural coverage on its
Tourist Information website, which provides an
Stockholm’s official tourist excellent overview of the city’s Language and Etiquette
information organization is museums and exhibitions. Visitors will find that English is
the Stockholm Visitors Board widely spoken. This is especially
(SVB). Their website can answer true among hotel and rest­
most commonly asked ques­ Opening Hours and aurant staff, as well as most
Admission Charges
tions and allows visitors to shop employees. The Swedes
check the calendar of special Most museums and other sights are usually friendly and glad to
events and purchase tickets. are open between 10 or 11am help foreign tou rists. The use
It also provides web addresses and 5 or 6pm all year round, of first names is the norm, and
for the most important sights. with extended opening hours in “Hej!” (pronounced “Hay!”) is a
Visitors to Stockholm and the summer. Some museums familiar greeting.
Sweden can also find a lot are closed on Mondays. Casual clothing is acceptable
of useful information in Entrance fees are generally almost everywhere, including
different languages at the between 50 and 100 kr, with restaurants and most theatres.
Arrival Guides website. dis counts available for stu dents, Tips are always included in
Hotel staff are usually well children and senior citizens. restaurant prices, but it is usual
informed and can answer Shops are generally open to round up the bill by up to
Umbrellas, Sturegallerian shopping mall



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  191


10 per cent for good service. Car drivers with a disability DIRECTORY
permit from their home country
can park in designated areas. Travel Safety Advice
Alcohol and Smoking
Disabled visitors can obtain Australia
Swedish policy towards alco hol information in English before Department of Foreign
is restrictive. Wines, beers (above they travel from De Handikap­ Affairs and Trade
3.5 per cent) and spirits can be pades Riksförbund. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
bought only in the shops run by
the state monopoly Systembo­ UK
laget. They are open Mon day to Travelling with Children Foreign and Commonwealth
Office ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign­
Friday from 10am to 6pm, and Families with children will find it travel­advice
most are open on Saturdays from easy to travel around Stockholm.
10am to 3pm. The minimum The under 20s travel at a US
age for buying liquor in these reduced rate on all forms of US Department of State
shops is 20, and you maybe public transport, while children ∑ travel.state.gov
required to show proof of age. under 7 do not need a ticket Tourist Information
Most res taurants and pubs when travelling with a paying
stop selling alcohol at 1am, passenger. Children between Arlanda Visitor Centre
but some city-centre bars the ages of 7–11 travel free with Arrival Hall Terminal 5,
stay open until 5am. The a paying passenger from Fridays Arlanda Airport, 190 45
minimum age for buying at noon through to midnight Stockholm-Arlanda.
liquor in restaurants is 18, with on Sunday. One adult may Tel 010-109 10 00.
some establishments setting accompany a baby or toddler Arrival Guides
higher age minimums. in a pram on city buses free of ∑ arrivalguides.com
The maximum permitted charge at all times.
blood alcohol level is only The Local
0.2 mg per mil, so drinking is ∑ thelocal.se
effectively banned for drivers. Responsible Tourism Stockholm Visitor Centre
Bans on smoking are wide- Stockholm is known for its efforts Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 5.
spread in Sweden. Smoking is to reduce pollution and improve Map 2 C4. Tel 08-508 285 08.
not permitted in public places, the level of environ mental ∑ visitstockholm.com
including all forms of public awareness among its inhabitants. Disabled Travellers
transport, bars and restaurants. The city has established over
Customers wishing to purchase 700 km (435 miles) of cycle lanes, De Handikappades
tobacco must be over 18, and while all inner city buses and Riksförbund
establishments will often ask trains run on renewable fuels. Tel 08-685 80 00. ∑ dhr.se
for ID as proof of age. Greenhouse emissions have
been lowered by 25 per cent Embassies and
since 1990, and Stockholm was Consulates
Disabled Travellers
presented with the European
Under Swedish law, public areas Commission’s first European United Kingdom
Skarpögatan 6–8. Map 6 B2.
have to be accessible to Green Capital Award in 2009. Tel 08-671 30 00.
physically or visually disabled Recycling containers for cans ∑ gov.uk/government/world/
people, and Stockholm is well and plastics are found in public sweden
ahead of many other cities in areas throughout the city and
this respect. The Tunnelbana travel by public transport is United States
network is adapted for disabled highly encouraged. Dag Hammarskjölds väg 31.
passengers, and most buses More than 30 Stockholm Map 6 B2. Tel 08-783 53 00.
∑ se.usembassy.gov
“kneel” at bus stops to make it hotels are deemed eco-friendly,
easier to board or disembark. and numerous restaurants offer
purely organic menus. The
Stockholm Visitors Board lists
many such establishments. For
those wishing to sample local
produce, a farmers’ market can
be found at Hötorget seven
days a week, while other
markets are open at Katarina
Bangata on Söder-malm and at
Tessinparken in Gärdet from
10am to 3pm on Saturdays
during the summer, as well as
Hötorget market sells fruit, vegetables and flowers during the Christmas holidays.




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192  S ur viv al guide

Personal Security and Health In an Emergency
The emergency telephone
Stockholm is outstandingly safe compared with virtually any number for police, fire or
other major city. To a great extent the city has been spared ambulance is 112. It can be
violence and terrorism, and natural disasters including earth­ dialled free of charge from all
quakes and severe storms do not occur. However, as with any public and mobile telephones,
but should be used only in
major city, caution is recommended in the centre of town, emergencies. For minor ill-
particularly at night. Sweden has a well­developed network nesses or con cerns, ring the
of emergency services as well as highly efficient hospital Healthcare Information
emergency clinics and rescue services. Service (Sjukvårdsupplysningen).
Lost and Stolen Property
When going out, it is a Lost or stolen property should
good idea to lock passports be reported to the nearest
and travel documents in your police station. The Police Lost
room safe or in the hotel Property Office (Polisens
strongbox. It is equally Hittegodsexpedition) is open
important not to leave any Monday to Friday from 10am to
valu ables in your car; ideally, 3pm (until 6pm on Thurs days).
choose a hotel with its own Telephone enquiries are accepted
parking facilities. There is no Monday and Tuesday from 1pm
need to carry large amounts of to 3pm and Friday from 10am
cash when exploring the city. to noon. The Swedish State
ATM machines are widely Railways (Stat ens Järnvägar)
available, and all of the main has its own lost property office
Policeman Security guard credit and debit cards are for items lost on SJ trains. For
accepted in virtually all shops property lost on Storstock holms
and restaurants. Note that Lokal trafik (SL) buses, Tunnel bana
Police many places now require you to trains or local trains, check with
In Stockholm, the police are enter your PIN number when the SL Lost Property Office
usually extremely helpful and using a debit or credit card. (Hittegod savdelning), which is
com petent in English and visitors Stockholm is easy to open from 11am to 7pm Monday,
can feel free to address them explore on foot or by 11am to 6pm Tuesday to Friday
with any questions or concerns. Tunnelbana (underground and 10am to 4pm Saturday.
Police patrolling on foot or in railway). The
cars are a routine sight in the Tunnelbana is
city centre, and mounted police safe at most
are common at special events. times, but avoid
There are police stations in empty carriages.
every part of the city, and Care should also
police are also available at the be taken when
Central Station/T-Centralen. walking around
To report an incident that does the city at night. Ambulance
not require immediate police In addition,
help call the non-emergency visitors should
number (114 14). avoid using
In addition to the police, unauthor ized
security guards are a familiar taxis, particularly
feature in many public places, when arriving at
such as shopping centres. Arlanda Airport.
It is illegal to
buy sexual
Safety services in Police car
Although Stockholm is basically Sweden, so it is
safe, as with any major city, the buyer, not the
tourists can still run into trouble. prostitute, who
The many popular events attract is prosecuted.
bag-snatchers and pickpockets, As a result of
especially during the summer this law, street
months. Always keep an eye on prostitutes are
your bag and valuables in a rare sight in
crowded public areas. the inner city. Fire engine




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  193

Minor Hazards
Mosquitoes can be a nuisance
between June and late
September, especially at dusk.
This is particularly the case in
parks, along waterways and,
above all, in the archipelago.
Pharmacies can supply
mosquito repellent.
In the wooded areas around
Stockholm and in the
archipelago, ticks are a serious
problem. As ticks in this region
often carry borrelia or TBE, they
should be removed from the
Entrance to Karolinska Sjukhus, a hospital in Stockholm skin with tweezers as quickly
as possible. If redness develops
Hospitals and minor ailments are likely to around the bite, a doctor
Pharmacies exper ience long waiting times. should be consulted.
Sev eral city hospitals have For severe tooth ache or eye The cobbled streets of Gamla
accident and emergency emergencies, patients can Stan, the city’s old quarter, can
clinics, including Karolinska report to S:t Eriks Sjukhus prove treacherous for tourists.
Sjukhus, Astrid Lindgrens between 7:45am and 8:30pm. Sturdy shoes are recommended
Barnsjukhus (children), Dand­ Pharmacies can dispense when visiting this area,
eryds Sjukhus, S:t Görans medicines for most minor particularly in the winter.
Sjukhus (privately owned) ailments without a prescrip tion,
and Södersjukhus. and staff can usually give good
Patients should not report advice on suitable medication. Travel and
Health Insurance
to individual emergency Pharma cies across the city are
clinics without normally open Monday Foreign visitors are advised to
contacting the to Friday from 8:30am take out medical insurance
Healthcare to 4 or 6pm. Some are before departure to cover
Information Service also open on Saturday. medical care or hospital
beforehand. This service The C W Scheele in-patient treatment. EU citizens
can provide advice in Pharmacy sign pharmacy near are entitled to free medical care
English, and its staff are Central Station is in Sweden on production of a
responsible for assigning patients open 24 hours. There is also a European Health Insurance Card
to a suitable hospital or duty Pharmaceutical Information line (EHIC) and a valid passport or
doctor. It is always advisable to that gives advice on prescription other form of identification. As
make use of this service; those and non-prescription medication. not all treatment is covered by
who do not and go directly to a Visitors to Sweden do not the card, separate medical
hospital emer gency clinic with need special vaccinations. insurance is advisable.
DIRECTORY
Police SL Lost Property Pharmaceutical Danderyds Sjukhus
Office Information Mörbygårdsvägen.
Non-emergency Klara Östra Kyrkogata 6. Tel 0771 450 450 Tel 08-655 50 00 (24-hrs).
Tel 114 14. Map 2 C5. (7am–9pm Mon–Fri, Karolinska Sjukhus
Tel 08-600 10 00. 8am–6pm Sat & Sun). Karolinska Vägen.
In an Emergency Map 2 A1.
Swedish State Tel 08-517 700 00 (24-hrs).
Ambulance, Police, Railways Lost Hospitals and
Pharmacies
Fire Brigade Property Office S:t Eriks Sjukhus
Polhemsgatan 50.
Tel 112. Central Station, Astrid Lindgrens Map 1 C2.
Vasagatan. Tel 08-672 31 00.
Lost and Stolen Map 2 C4. Barnsjukhus
Karolinska Hospital.
Property Tel 08-501 255 90. Map 2 A1. S:t Görans Sjukhus
S:t Görans Plan 1.
Medical Infor- Tel 08-517 700 00. Map 1 A2.
Police Lost Property Tel 08-587 010 00.
Office mation Services C W Scheele
Bergsgatan 54. Healthcare Infor- Klarabergsgatan 64. Södersjukhus
Sjukhusbacken 10.
Map 1 C3. mation Service Map 2 C4. Map 8 B4.
Tel 010-563 36 10. Tel 08-32 01 00 (24-hrs). Tel 07-714 504 50 (24-hrs). Tel 08-616 10 00.
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194  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency option, so remember to
check the exchange rates
As Sweden remains outside the European Monetary Union and commission charges
(EMU), goods are priced only in Swedish kronor and not in before going ahead.
euros. Visitors can change currency in banks, which provide
an efficient service, but better rates can often be obtained at ATMs
bureaux de change, which have longer opening hours and Automatic cash machines
are strategically located in the city centre. Automatic cash (ATMs) are widely available,
machines can be found outside most banks and in shopping operate efficiently and are
centres. Credit and debit cards are accepted nearly everywhere, generally safe to use. Foreign
and some of the larger stores accept the major foreign visitors can use all the city’s cash
machines to make withdrawals,
currencies. Traveller’s cheques are no longer accepted in shops
and can only be exchanged in banks and bureaux de change. DIRECTORY
Banks
All banks are closed on Handelsbanken
weekends and on public Kungsträdgårdsgatan 2.
holidays, as well as the day Map 4 C1.
before a public holiday. Tel 08-701 10 00.
Various bureaux de change Nordea
chains are represented in Hamngatan 12.
Stockholm, including Forex Map 3 D4.
and X-Change. They generally Tel 077-122 44 88.
provide a better exchange rate
than the banks and they are Seb
easily acces sible. In the city Sergels Torg 2.
Map 2 C4.
centre, there is always an office Tel 077-136 53 65.
close at hand.
Currency and traveller’s Bureaux de Change
cheques can be changed at one
of Forex’s or X-Change’s Arlanda Forex
Bankomat ATM Airport locations from 5:30am, Central Station.
Map 2 C5.
Banks and Bureaux and from 7am at the Forex or Tel 08-411 67 34.
de Change X-change offices at Stockholm
Central Station. All of these Arlanda Airport, Terminal 2.
There are plenty of banks in the outlets are open for more than Tel 08-593 622 71.
city centre, all of which offer 12 hours daily. At Central Arlanda Airport, Terminal 5.
currency exchange services, and Station, Forex and X-Change Tel 08-593 622 20.
can help visitors who need to are both located in the main Klarabergsgatan 60.
report lost or stolen bank or entrance hall and on the Map 2 C5.
credit cards. The major banks – underground train level. Other Tel 010-211 16 10.
Handels banken, Nordea and exchange offices can be found ∑ forex.se
SEB – have numerous branches in the Nordiska Kompaniet and X-Change
throughout Stockholm. Their PUB department stores, and in Arlanda Airport, Terminal 5.
opening times vary, but the the Gallerian shopping centre Tel 010-211 16 93.
normal hours are from 9:30am on Hamngatan (see p183). Central Station.
to 3pm. Some banks stay open Changing money in your Map 2 B4.
until 6pm at least once a week. hotel can be an expensive Tel 08-545 230 30.
∑ x-change.se
Credit and Debit Cards
American Express
Tel 08-429 56 00
Diners Club
Tel 08-14 68 78.
MasterCard
Tel 020-791 324 (emergency
assist ance for international visitors).
Visa
Tel 020-795675.
The head office of Handelsbanken at Kungsträdgårdsgatan




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  195

Credit and Debit Cards Currency
provided that they have an
internationally accepted credit All the well­known credit and Sweden’s currency is the
or debit card with a PIN code. debit cards, including Visa, Swedish krona (plural kronor).
The majority of ATMs accept MasterCard, American Express The krona (abbreviated as
Visa and MasterCard. Please and Diners Club, are accepted SEK or kr) is divided into 100
note that credit card companies not just by the larger hotels and öre. The smallest coin is 1 kr
often charge a high fee for such restaurants but by nearly all and the largest note is 1,000
cash advances. shops and services. Customers kronor, which is not commonly
Machines usually have instru c­ paying by credit or debit card used. If possible, it is advis able
tions in several languages, may be asked to produce proof not to carry notes of more
including English. The charge of identity, and many stores than 500 kr.
for withdrawing cash varies require use of the PIN code Many of Stockholm’s larger
according to the type of card, associated with the card. shops and department stores
and additional fees may be If your credit or debit card will accept euros as payment
charged by the cardholder’s is lost or stolen, contact your for goods, but, to avoid
bank. As criminals are known to card company immediately. disappointment, it is best to
watch ATMs to gather PIN code In order to ensure your card check with a shop employee
information, make sure that you works overseas, it is worth cont­ that this is indeed the case
shield the keypad with your hand acting your bank or credit card before trying to purchase
or body when entering your PIN. provider in advance of travelling. your goods.
Notes
Swedish currency notes are issued in
denominations of 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000
kronor. They depict historic Swedish artists,
authors, scientists and monarchs.




20 kronor


50 kronor





100 kronor


200 kronor





500 kronor

1,000 kronor

Coins
Coins are issued in values of 1, 2,
5 and 10 kronor. The 1 kr coin
de picts Sweden’s monarch on the
obverse side, while the 5 kr has his
monogram on the reverse side. 1 krona 2 kronor 5 kronor




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196  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications and Media

Sweden has a top-ranking telecommunications industry, one
of the most successful and innovative in the world. High living
standards have placed the Swedes among the world’s biggest
users of mobile telephones, and there is a very high level of
Internet usage. Telephone cards – and usually credit or debit Logo of Telenor network provider
cards – can be used to make a call from a public telephone,
while a mobile phone can be purchased at a relatively low The major network providers in
price. With free Wi-Fi access readily available, there is no risk Sweden include Telia, Telenor,
of being cut off from the world here. Tele2/Comviq and 3 Sweden.
Inexpensive GSM mobile phones
can be purchased at a number
of stores, including The Phone
House, Telia or Telenor, together
with a pre-paid SIM card for local
phone calls.
Within the Stockholm area,
mobile users need to dial the
area code 08 before a local
number – the country code is
not needed.

Internet Facilities
Most hotels offer guests email
and fax services. Furthermore,
nearly all hotels and hostels in
the Stockholm area offer Internet
The interior of the Stadsbiblioteket (City Library) access, although they may charge
a daily fee. Public computers are
generally available at local
International and Local Mobile Phones libraries, such as the Stockholm
Telephone Calls The number of telephone kiosks City Library at Odengatan 63.
The prefix for international calls in Sweden has shown a marked Users may be asked to present
from Sweden is 00 followed by decline in recent years because some form of identification.
the country code, the area code virtually every Swede has a Sidewalk Express offers pay-
(omitting any initial 0) and the mobile phone. Sweden’s mobile per-minute Internet access from
local number. network is based on GSM, and computer terminals at Arlanda
Public telephones are usually most foreign visitors can use Airport, Central Station, and a
operated by phone cards, which their GSM phones. However, number of Pressbyrån and
are sold at newspaper kiosks visitors from North America 7-Eleven stores throughout the
and shops. Normal credit cards should check with their service city. The cost varies by location
and most international providers to ensure their but usually ranges from 25–35
telephone cards can also be phones are GSM-compatible. kr per hour.
used, although the charge per Wireless Internet (Wi-Fi) access
minute is generally higher. It is is widely available for visitors
possible to make reverse-charge with their own phones and
(collect) calls and calls to the computers. Most hotels, many
emergency number 112 (free of cafés and all Max Hamburgers
charge) from all phones. Coin- restaurants offer free Wi-Fi.
operated phones are becoming
increasingly rare. Postal Services
Local numbers can be
obtained by ringing directory The Swedish postal system –
enquiries on 118 118, or on the easily recognized by its blue-
Internet at Eniro (www.eniro.se) and-gold symbol – is based on
or at Hitta (www.hitta.se). a series of small postal kiosks
Computer-to-computer phone located in local grocery stores,
calls allow visitors to call free of such as Hemköp which is one
charge using the Internet. of the most central. These kiosks
Popular service providers offer the most common services
include Skype and Google Talk. A typical Swedish telephone kiosk and are open during normal




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  197


DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
The Phone House
Brunkebergstorg 10.
Map 3 D4.
Tel 08-796 47 50.
Telenor Store
Ringvägen 132.
Map 8 B2.
Tel 020-015 90 80.
Telia Store
Kungsgatan 36.
Pressbyrån kiosks, newsagent selling stamps Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-696 96 80.
shop hours. Some official post Stockholm. DHL and UPS
offices remain to handle more services are available at
specialized services; one is Mailboxes Etc., which is located Internet Facilities
located on Klarabergsvia- in the city centre and open on
dukten 84 near Central Station week days from 8am to 7pm. In Café String
and is open on weekdays from addition, special courier services Nytorgsgatan 38.
8:30am to 6pm. are also offered through the Map 9 E3.
Stamps can be bought at post Swedish post office. Tel 08-714 85 14.
offices and postal kiosks, as well Max Hamburgers
as at Pressbyrån kiosks and Television and Radio Kungsträdgårdsgatan 20.
tourist information offices. It Map 3 D4.
costs 7 kr to send a postcard or Virtually all hotel rooms have Tel 08-611 38 10.
letter under 20g (0.04 lb) within a TV with a range of national
Sweden and 14 kr to the rest and foreign channels. The Sidewalk Express
Located in Stockholm Central
of the world. Postboxes are most common channels are
painted in different colours: the Swedish SVT1, SVT2, TV3, Station, Arlanda Airport, and
7-Eleven and Pressbyrån stores.
the yellow boxes are for TV4 and Channel 5, as well
national and inter- as the international Postal Services
national mail and the CNN, Sky News, MTV
blue boxes for letters and Eurosport. SVT1 DHL
destined for the and 2 are State-run Tel 077-134 53 45.
Stockholm area (post public-service Federal Express (FedEx)
codes starting with “1”). channels. SVT2 and Arlanda Airport.
In some areas, there are Post Office logo TV4 broadcast local Tel 0200 252 252.
only yellow boxes, which programmes in the
can then be used for local mail morning and evening, which Hemköp
as well. Collection times vary include weather forecasts. Mäster Samuelsgatan 57.
and are always shown on There are a number of local Map 2 C4.
the postbox. radio stations that broadcast a Tel 020-23 22 21.
Most international courier selection of international and Mailboxes Etc.
services, including DHL, UPS Swedish music. P6, Stockholm Mäster Samuelsgatan 20.
and FedEx, are represented in International, broadcasts Map 3 D4.
English- and German-language Tel 08-411 70 10.
programmes on 89.6 MHz.
Swedish Post
Klarabergsviadukten 84.
Newspapers and Map 2 B5.
Magazines Tel 08-781 20 42.
Many foreign newspapers and UPS
magazines can be bought in Tel 077-662 20 77.
Stockholm. For the broadest
range, visit Press Stop, Press
Center or Press Specialisten. of foreign titles can be found
Alternatively, the Pressbyrån at the Plattan Library at
kiosks and tourist information Kulturhuset, which is open
offices around the city stock Monday to Friday from 9am to
Yellow postbox for national and a limited number of foreign 7pm, and Saturday to Sunday
international, blue for local mail publications. A wide variety from 11am to 5pm.




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198  sur viv al guide

GETTING TO STOCKHOLM

stockholm’s location at the centre of the construction and the railway system being
Baltic region has made it an important upgraded for high-speed trains. Car fer ries
transport hub. direct, daily flights link the operate between stockholm and Finland and
capital to most major european and North other points in the Baltic, and from sweden’s
american cities. arlanda airport, served by west and south coasts, the capi tal can be
about 60 international and domestic airlines, reached by high-speed trains and motorways
is one of the most efficient in the world. in in 6 hours. sweden also has a direct link to
addition, sweden’s infrastructure is constantly the Continent via the Öresund bridge to
being improved, with new motorways under denmark in the south.


fortified wine, 4 litres of wine
and 16 litres of beer, and 200
cigarettes or 50 cigars, all of
which must be for personal
use only.
Visitors from within the EU
can bring any amount of food
into Sweden, with the exception
of fish, which is subject to an
import restriction of 15 kg
(33 lb). Those wishing to import
fresh food from other areas
must be in possession of a
health certificate and understand
that such food will be inspected
at the border. Visitors from non-
Duty free at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport EU countries travelling by
commercial airlines or ferries
Arriving by Air
dates, or can book well in can take in goods, including
Most major European cities advance. SAS, for example, has beer and food, with a value of
have direct flights to Stock- low-cost fares, which must be up to 4,300 kr.
holm. Many of the world’s booked at least seven days Tax-free sales in Sweden are
leading airlines, such as British before departure and require permitted only for travel lers with
Airways, serve Arlanda Airport, a Saturday night stay at the a final destination outside the EU.
located about 40 km (25 miles) destination. Bookings on this
north of the city centre. Some type of ticket cannot
Swedish domestic airlines also usually be changed. Getting to
the City from
use Arlanda Airport, including Scheduled airlines
SAS (Scandinavian Airlines). generally maintain SAS logo Arlanda Airport
Stockholm is also served by their basic fare There are several
two other airports. Bromma, structure throughout the year. ways of getting to the city
close to the city centre, is used However, special offers and from Arlanda Airport. The
by several of the smaller last-minute online deals are “Flygbussarna” bus service,
domestic airlines as well as frequently available. which operates every 10
Finnair and Brussels Airlines. minutes at peak times, takes 45
Skavsta, about 100 km (62 miles) minutes to the City Terminal at
south of Stockholm, is used by Customs Central Station and costs about
Ryanair for flights to and from Travellers arriving from within 120 kr one way or 215 kr for a
London Stansted Airport. A bus the EU are able to bring an return ticket. Tickets can be
takes travellers into Stockholm. unlimited amount of alcohol cheaper if bought online in
Direct flights between Stock- into the country for their own advance. An onward journey by
holm and North America are consumption, provided they taxi can be booked on the bus.
run by SAS, Delta and United. are at least 20 years old, and an A taxi from the airport is quicker
unlimited amount of tobacco but more expensive. Most taxi
for their own consumption, firms have a fixed charge of
Air Fares and Tickets as long as they are at least 18 about 500 kr to the city centre.
Fare options are varied, years of age. Travellers from Use only authorized taxis
particularly if you can be flexible outside the EU may only bring waiting in the official taxi
about departure and arrival 1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of queues at Arlanda and agree




198-199_EW_Stockholm.indd 198 18/11/15 2:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm