(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Los Angeles

Architectural Landmarks ❮❮ 49

Chemosphere
8
MAP D2 • 776 Torreyson Dr,
Hollywood Hills • Not open to the
public
John Lautner’s bold, often
experimental architectural style is
perfectly exemplified in this unique
private home in the Hollywood Hills.
Resembling a flying saucer on a
single concrete column, it was built
in 1960, the same year President
John F. Kennedy launched the
challenge to put a man on the moon.
The house was featured in Brian de
Palma’s 1984 movie Body Double.
Hollyhock House
9
One of Frank Lloyd Wright’s
masterpieces of avant-garde
Bradbury Building atrium architecture, the 1921 Hollyhock
House was the architect’s first LA
Bradbury Building
5 commission. Anchoring Barnsdall
This light-flooded 1893
Art Park, the house takes full
office building, with its open-cage advantage of the mild California
elevators, frilly iron work, and climate. Wright created seamless
marble floors, is one of LA’s top transitions between indoor and
architectural landmarks. Architect outdoor space and made ample
George Wyman allegedly accepted use of patios, porches, and rooftop
the job after consulting a Ouija terraces (see p101).
board. Movie buffs might recognize
it from Blade Runner and Chinatown.
Chiat/Day Building
6
MAP B5 • 340 Main St, Venice
• Not open to public
Reflecting architect Frank Gehry’s
sculptural approach, this building
was commissioned by advertising
firm Chiat/Day as its West Coast
corporate head quarters in 1991.
It has as its center a three-story-tall
pair of binoculars by Claes Oldenburg
and Coosje van Bruggen, while the Hollyhock House entrance
rust-colored columns on the right
Cathedral of Our Lady
resemble a deconstructed forest. 0
of the Angels
The Gamble House
7 Behind the fortress-like exterior
This stunning Pasadena
of the cathedral, designed by José
Craftsman bungalow marks the Rafael Moneo, awaits a minimalist
pinnacle of the career of Charles and hall of worship, where the lack of
Henry Greene. Built in 1908 as the right angles and supporting pillars
retirement home of David and Mary creates a sense of spacious loftiness.
Gamble of the Procter & Gamble You don’t have to be a Roman
family, the house has a beautiful Catholic to appreciate the lovely
garden, wide terraces, and open tapestries of the nave, depicting
sleeping porches (see p95). dozens of saints (see p78).



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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Parks and Gardens


Griffith Park
Huntington Library,
1 3
Art Collections, and
The country’s largest urban
Botanical Gardens park (see pp34–5) is filled with
A perfect synthesis of nature and museums, entertainment for
culture, this amazing estate houses children, hiking and horse trails, and
priceless collections of paintings the famous Griffith Park Observatory.
and rare manuscripts that were
Virginia Robinson
started by railroad tycoon Henry E. 4
Huntington and his wife Arabella in Gardens
the early 19th century (see pp28–31). MAP J4 • 1008 Elden Way • 310-
550-2065 • Tours: 10am & 1:30pm
Tue & Thu, 2pm Sat by appt only
• Adm • www.robinsongardens.org
The 1911 estate of department-store
heiress Virginia Robinson is one of
the oldest in Beverly Hills. Stroll in
gardens with fountains and statu-
ettes past towering king palms and
elegant camellias flourishing in
this quiet hideaway.
Exposition Park
5
Rose Garden
Fountain at Greystone Mansion MAP D2 • 701 State Dr • 9am–sunset
daily (closed Jan 1–Mar 15)
Greystone Mansion
2 • www.laparks.org/exporosegarden/
and Park
rosegarden.htm
MAP J3 • 905 Loma Vista Dr, Beverly This lovely rose garden dates back
Hills • 310-285-6830 • Open most to 1928 and features about 15,000
days; call for park hours; mansion rose bushes that bloom from March
open for special events only through November. Great for picnics
• www.greystonemansion.org or for a respite from museums.
Popular with wedding planners and
Wrigley Mansion
visitors in search of solitude, this 6
secluded park affords great views and Gardens
of Beverly Hills. Its centerpiece is a The winter home of William Wrigley
55-room mansion built in 1928 by oil Jr. (of Wrigley’s chewing gum) is
tycoon Edward Doheny as a wedding backed by a lovely green rose garden
present for his son Ned. The estate and now serves as the headquarters
has been featured in many movies, of the Pasadena Tournament of
including Air Force One. Roses Association (see p92).
101 Griffith GLENDALE PASADENA
Park 210
MULHOLLAND DR HOLLYWOOD FREEWAY FWY
WEST
PASADENA FREEWAY
HOLLYWOOD GLENDALE
Topanga
State Park BEL-AIR HOLLYWOOD
TOPANGA WESTWOOD SANTA MONICA BLVD 170 Elysian
Park
BEVERLY
BRENTWOOD HILLS WILSHIRE BLVD 110
2
DOWNTOWN 10
10
SAN DIEGO FREEWAY
SANTA MONICA FREEWAY 0 km 5
Santa Monica
Bay L OS ANGELES C OUNT Y 0 miles 5
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Parks and Gardens ❮❮ 51




















Windmill at Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine
Self-Realization
7 colorful history – the ruins near the
Fellowship Lake Shrine
Fuller Steet entrance were built in
MAP C2 • 17190 Sunset Blvd • 310- 1930 by opera star John McCormack,
454-4114 • Open 9am–4:30pm and Errol Flynn lived in one of the
Tue–Sat, noon–4:30pm Sun • pool houses in the late 1950s.
www.lakeshrine.org
Palisades Park
Bathed in an ambience of beauty and 0
serenity, this hidden sanctuary was MAP A3 • Ocean Ave between
created in 1950 by Paramahansa Santa Monica Pier & San Vincente
Yogananda, an Indian-born spiritual Blvd • Open any time
leader. Wander over to the shrine to Famous for its swaying palm trees and
Mahatma Gandhi or the spring-fed picture-perfect views of Santa Monica
lake, meditate inside a re-created Bay (especially at sunset), Palisades
16th-century windmill, or study the Park is a playground for young and
Court of Religions that honors all old, locals and visitors, families and
of the world’s major faiths. courting couples. Stretching for 13
blocks atop a bluff overlooking the
Franklin D. Murphy
8 ocean, the park has benches and
Sculpture Garden
lawns that invite picnics and people-
MAP C2 • UCLA campus, Westwood watching. A nostalgic curiosity is the
• Open any time • www.hammer.ucla. Camera Obscura inside the
edu/collections/detail/collection_id/6 seniors’ center at 1450
Tucked away in the northeastern Ocean Avenue.
corner of the UCLA campus, this
delightful little oasis is dotted with 70 Palisades Park
sculptures by some of the greatest
19th- and 20th-century European
and American artists such as
Auguste Rodin and Alexander Calder.
Runyon Canyon Park
9
MAP N1 • At the end of Fuller
St off Franklin Ave • 323-666-5046
• Open until sunset (avoid after dark)
Minutes from the Walk of Fame,
this small urban park has some
moderately difficult trails and a




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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beaches



MALIBU 1 SANTA 10 L OS ANGELES
MONICA C OUNT Y
405 DOWNTOWN
Point Dume
1 ALAMEDA ST
MARINA 105 AVALON BLVD
SEPULVEDA BLVD GARDENA
DEL REY
GARDENA FWY
P acific O c ean
TORRANCE 405
PACIFIC COAST HWY
PALOS 1
VERDES 110
0 km 10 Palos Verdes SAN
Peninsula PEDRO
0 miles 10
Zuma Beach
Nicholas Canyon Beach
1 3
33900 block of Pacific Coast
30000 block of Pacific Coast
Hwy, near Ventura County Line Hwy, Malibu
This lovely 2-mile (3-km) beach is This 2-mile (3-km) ribbon of fine,
quieter than most in Malibu because sparkling sand is one of LA’s most
of its isolation and distance from the popular beaches. Its clean water and
city. It hugs the base of a bluff and mid-sized waves are great for
is a great place for those seeking bodysurfing and swimming. It teems
solitude and a tan. with families on summer Sundays
but is nearly deserted the rest of the
week, making it perfect for quiet
picnics and walks along the beach.
Malibu Lagoon State/
4
Surfrider Beach
MAP A2 • 23200 block of Pacific
Coast Hwy, Malibu
Wedged in between the Malibu
Pier and the Malibu Colony gated
celebrity enclave, this popular beach
offers many diversions. Watch
surfers shred the waves at Surfrider
El Matador Beach rock formations Beach. The eponymous lagoon is a
stopover for migratory birds, while
El Matador Beach
2 the nearby Adamson House with its
32900 block of Pacific Coast
idyllic gardens overlooks Malibu Pier
Hwy, Malibu and Malibu Lagoon (see p121).
Rugged, secluded, and dotted with
Redondo Beach
large boulders eroded by nature, this 5
small cliff-backed beach is one of MAP D4
LA’s finest. Its remoteness, limited A unique horseshoe-shaped pier
parking, and cumbersome access via lined with shops, arcades, and food
a gravelly trail keep the crowds at stands is Rendo Beach’s focal point.
bay. There are no facilities, but you Rent a paddleboard or kayak and hit
can explore tide pools and caves, or the water, or take a bicycle along the
take a dip. Nude sunbathing is illegal cycle path. Boutiques and art gal-
in LA County but some does occur. leries are just a few blocks inland.


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Beaches ❮❮ 53

Hermosa Beach
6
MAP C3 • Around Pier Ave
South of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa
(see p123) has a busy bar and restau­
rant scene right where Pier Avenue
meets the sand. Beach volleyball is
the local pastime and national tour­
naments take place throughout the
year. Only the paved South Bay
Bicycle Trail that runs from Marina
del Rey to Palos Verdes lies between
the sand and private homes.
Manhattan Beach
7
MAP C3 • West of
Highland Ave
The Beach Boys, who grew up
around here, found inspiration for
their inimitable surf music in the
white sands and glorious waves
of this upscale yet relaxed seaside Ocean Front Walk, Venice Beach
town. Longboarders still compete for
Venice Beach
the perfect ride, especially around 9
the Manhattan Pier, which is home MAP A5 • Ocean Front Walk
to the Roundhouse Marine Studies between Venice Blvd & Rose Ave
Lab and Aquarium. The beach itself plays second fiddle
to Venice’s outlandish Ocean Front
Santa Monica Beach
8 Walk, which is a magnet for eccen­
trics and those who love watching
MAP A4 • Along Pacific Coast
Hwy in Santa Monica them. Against a backdrop of trinket
This easy­to­access beach is one of shops and cafés, your encounters
LA’s busiest. Families love the Santa may include chainsaw jugglers,
Monica Pier (see p59 & p121) with hulky musclemen, or even a singing
its pretty historical carousel and Sikh on roller­blades (see p122).
amusement park. Fitness buffs can
Cabrillo Beach
get their kicks from pedaling or 0
skating down a paved path running MAP D5 • Stephen M. White Dr,
past the restored Muscle Beach, the San Pedro
birthplace of the Southern California The sails of windsurfers flutter like
exercise craze back in the 1930s. giant butterflies along this beach
on the breakwater of LA Harbor. Visit
the nearby Cabrillo Marine Aquarium
to learn about marine life.
Santa Monica Pier and beach

















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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places to See and Be Seen




















The kitsch, French-style interior of The Ivy, a great spot for celeb-spotting
The Ivy
1 to see and be seen. It’s best known
as a place to see the freshest,
MAP L5 • 113 N Robertson
Blvd, West Hollywood • 310-274-8303 hippest new bands (see p15 & p110).
The air at this rustic French restaurant
Fred Segal
is electric with the buzz of Hollywood’s 3
power players. Deals are struck daily Some of the word’s most
between movie moguls, celebrities, famous stars, such as Jennifer
agents and their high-profile clients. Aniston, Nicole Kidman, and George
Count yourself very fortunate if you Clooney have been spotted browsing
manage to score a table on the for clothes and accessories at this
fenced-in patio table for some great stylish emporium. It’s also a favorite
people- and celebrity-watching. for wardrobe buyers for TV and feature
films. The West Hollywood branch is
Viper Room
2 more celebrity-heavy (see p112).
Celebrities like to hang out
Chateau Marmont
with their own kind, and this place 4
got its start with Johnny Depp, one and Bar Marmont
of the original owners. It still has Celebrities have flocked to this
enormous cachet, with standing European-style hotel like moths to
room only for the crowds who come the flame since its opening way back
in 1929. Famed for its discretion, it
Viper Room entrance has remained a favorite spot for
celebrity trysts. Check out the chic
Bar Marmont (see p15, p110, & p145).
Spago Beverly Hills
5
There aren’t too many
restaurants whose owners are as
famous as their A-list patrons, but
Spago’s Wolfgang Puck is certainly
one of them. He can often be seen
schmoozing in the dining room.
One of the most pleasant spots
for stargazing (see p67 & p119).




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Places to See and Be Seen ❮❮ 55

Barneys
0 km 1 8
New York
0 miles 1 SUNSET WE ST SUNSET BLVD WEST MAP J6 • 9570 Wilshire
Greystone HOLLYWOOD Blvd, Beverly Hills
Park SANTA MONICA BLVD
BOULEVARD • 310-276-4400
SUNSET Max out your credit card
WEST N DOHENY DR VIC ENTE SAN MELROSE while keeping an eye out
MELROSE AVE for superstars and
MELR OSE AVE
BOULEVARD BLV D celebrities at this luxu-
MONICA FAIRFAX rious LA department
NORTH ORLANDO AVE
SANTA BEVERLY BEVERLY BLVD NORTH FAIRFAX AVENUE store. All the major
N FOOTHILL ROAD
NORTH LA CIENEGA BLVD
GROVE
N REXFORD DRIVE
3RD STREET WEST 3RD STREET designers from Armani
DAYTON WAY SAN VICENTE BLVD LA BREA and Gucci to Helmut
BEVERLY Lang and Dolce &
N BEVERLY DRIVE
HILLS WILSHIRE BOULEVARD Gabbana are represented
PARK LA BREA here. Take in the good
N BEVERLY BLVD N ROBERTSON BLVD
views from the outdoor
Bar 1200
6 tables in the rooftop deli.
Catering to a “Rolls-Royce”
Book Soup
rock’n’roll crowd, this hot hangout at 9
the Sunset Marquis Hotel (see p147) MAP L3 • 8818 Sunset Blvd,
was once owned by Rande Gerber, West Hollywood • 310-659-3110,
husband of supermodel Cindy 1-800-764-BOOK (toll free)
Crawford. Getting past the velvet This excellent independent bookstore
rope isn’t easy, especially when big draws a sizeable celebrity contingent
names such as U2’s Bono come by. with its eclectic offerings, including
international publications. Try and
increase your chances of meeting a
star by attending one of their book
readings or book-signing sessions.
Call for schedules.
LA Lakers Games
0
at Staples Center
The Los Angeles Lakers, the city’s
fabled basketball team, always
attract a fair number of celebrities
to their games at the Staples Center.
Number One fan, Jack Nicholson,
can usually be spotted courtside,
and Denzel Washington and Eddie
Murphy are regulars. Leonardo
DiCaprio, Jennifer Lopez, and Ben
Bar 1200 Affleck have also made appearances.
Urth Caffè
7
MAP L4 • 8565 Melrose Ave,
West Hollywood • 310-659-0628
This West Hollywood eating joint is a
health- and waist-conscious café on
the celebrity radar, but most days it’s
just the usual in-crowd munching
on vegetarian lasagne and New York
cheesecake. The patio offers the best
vantage point for checking out the
crowd from behind sunglasses. The massive Staples Center
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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Off the Beaten Path


Museum of Latin
1
American Art
MAP E4 • 628 Alamitos Ave, Long
Beach • 562-437-1689 • Open
11am–5pm Wed–Sun (to 9pm Fri)
• www.molaa.org
Part of Long Beach’s emerging
East Village Arts District, this lively
museum is the only one in the
western United States dedicated
to showcasing the modern and
contemporary works of Latin
American artists. A permanent Book tunnel at The Last Bookstore
collection of 1,500 works, traveling
The Last Bookstore
exhibitions, and a sculpture garden 3
instruct and inspire. MAP V5 • 453 Spring St • 213-
488-0599 • Open 10am–10pm Mon–
Thu, 10am–11pm Fri–Sat, 10am–9pm
Sun • www.lastbookstorela.com
An abandoned bank has transformed
into a world devoted to the love of
reading and books as art. It’s not just
another bookstore, but a Downtown
destination where devotees come to
explore 250,000 titles, pass through a
book tunnel, or wander the adjacent
art galleries.
Watts Towers
4
MAP E3 • 1765 E 107th St,
Watts • 213-847-4646 • www.
wattstowers.org
This folk-art masterpiece is a
whimsical trio of spires, adorned
with rainbow-colored pieces of tile,
glass, pottery, shells, and other
scavenged materials. The sculpture,
completed in 1954, represents the
Paintings at Velveteria life’s work of Italian immigrant
Simon Rodia. The high-crime neigh-
Velveteria
2 borhood is best avoided after dark.
MAP W5 • 711 New High St,
Metro Art
Chinatown • 503-309-9299 • Open 5
11am–6pm Wed–Mon • www. Stations throughout the Metro
velveteria.com Rail system exhibit delightful murals,
Quirky and fun, this museum has on sculpture, artwork, and photography
display hundreds of velvet paintings reflective of the local neighborhood
curated from a collection of nearly around the stop. These award-
4,000 pieces. While never accepted in winning installations represent the
the art world as legitimate art, there work of 100 different artists. Be sure
are serious works here, including the to download, or request in advance,
Polynesian art of Edgar Leetag. Less the Art Guide: A Tour of Metro’s
serious is the Hall of Elvis. Artwork before setting out.





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Off the Beaten Path ❮❮ 57

Los Angeles
6 101 VICTORY BOULEVARD 5 (30 miles) 210
Maritime
Museum VENTURA FREEWAY 134 PASADENA
MAP D4 • Berth 84, at the 405 HOLLYWOOD FREEWAY
101
foot of 6th St, San Pedro MALIBU 27 SANTA 10
LO S
• 310-548-7618 • Open MONICA ANGELES 605
10am–5pm Tue–Sun MARINA C OUNT Y
DEL REY
• www.lamaritime GARDENA 5
museum.org P acific ARTESIA FWY SAN GABRIEL RIVER FWY
This museum celebrates O c ean TORRANCE
LA’s seafaring tradition
PALOS
through displays of 0 km 15 VERDES SAN 405
nautical models and PEDRO ORANGE
memorabilia. A highlight 0 miles 15 COUNTY
is the exhibit about the
USS Los Angeles, a navy cruiser that hiking trails of the scenic Santa
fought in China and the Korean War. Monica Mountains National
Adjacent is the battleship USS Iowa, Recreation Area.
which transported Roosevelt across
Sierra Madre
the Atlantic to meet Winston 9
Churchill during World War II. MAP F1
Just east of Pasadena, Sierra Madre
Museum of
7 is the type of old­fashioned town you
Jurassic Technology
can’t imagine existing in the LA
9341 Venice Blvd, Culver City • 310- urban landscape. It is home to many
836-6131 • Open 2–8pm Thu, noon– of LA’s creative artists, and a
6pm Fri–Sun • www.mjt.org delightful mix of boutiques and cafés
The doors of this bizarre yet fun line the town center. Residential
museum open up a parallel universe, streets hold a number of original
where the seemingly mundane Craftsman houses. Come in March
becomes extraordinary. A throwback for the annual Wisteria Festival.
to the natural science museums of
Vasquez Rocks
the 19th century, exhibits include 0
Cameroonian stink ants and a dis­ 10700 Escondido Canyon Rd,
play of stereo floral radiography. Agua Dulce • 661-268-0840
• www.parks.lacounty.gov
Paramount Ranch
8 On the National Register of Historic
places for its significance in Native
2903 Cornell Rd, Agora Hills
• 805-370-2301 • nps.gov American prehistory, this 1.5­sq­mile
The mountains surrounding LA have (3.8­sq­km) natural desert park with
provided a natural backdrop for its distinctive rock formations has
Westerns since the 1920s, and the found fame as a film location site for
old buildings of Paramount Ranch over 100 movie, TV, and music video
have featured in many of the productions from Star Trek to The
productions. Aside from an occa­ Flintstones. Wear hiking boots and
sional film shoot, the ranch is bring along a picnic.
open to explore, as
are the adjacent Vasquez Rocks








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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions


California
1 such as the perennially popular
Science Center
dinosaurs. Special child-oriented
Located in Exposition Park, this facilities include the Discovery
interactive museum makes science Center, stocked with puppets,
and technology fun. Feel a simulated storybooks, and a fossil-rubbing
earthquake, design a car, and marvel station, and the Insect Zoo, home to
at the inner workings of a 50-ft a host of creepy crawlies (see p85).
(15-m) long robot named Tess. The
Cabrillo Marine
adjoining Air and Space Gallery 4
focuses on the principles of flight Aquarium
and space exploration (see p86). MAP D5 • 3720 Stephen White Drive,
San Pedro • 310-548-7562 • Open
noon–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat &
Sun • Donation • www.cabrillo
marineaquarium.org
Though small, this facility offers an
entertaining intro duction to life in
Southern California’s ocean waters.
The playful yet educational exhibits
are ideal for children. There are also
various activities, including guided
tide pool walks, a marine laboratory
workshop, and “sleepovers with the
fishes,” when kids can “camp” out
in the aquarium under supervision.
Long Beach Aquarium
5
of the Pacific
Take a virtual dive through three
regions of the Pacific Ocean at this
Tess at the California Science Center first-rate aquarium. Explore the kelp
beds of Southern California, the
Universal Studios
2 SM stormy shores of the north Pacific,
Hollywood
and the coral reefs of the tropical
This theme park attached to the Pacific. Laminated “dive charts” help
world’s largest movie studio is LA’s you identify the species.
biggest tourist attraction.
A ticket buys a day of 210
thrill rides and live action 2
shows, and includes BEVERLY 39
encounters with Spider- HILLS 10
Man, King Kong, and SAN DIEGO FWY 10 DOWNTOWN Y 60
other movie icons. A L OS ANGELES
must-do is the narrated SANTA C OUNT Y LONG BEACH FW 710 WHITTIER
tram tour to the famous MONICA 105 CENTURY FREEWAY SAN GABRIEL RIVER FWY
backlot sets (see pp32–3). 5
Natural History
3 HARBOR FREEWAY 405 LAKEWOOD SANTA ANA FREEWAY
Museum
605
PALOS
This engaging museum VERDES LONG BEACH OR ANGE
pays homage to the 0 km 2 SAN C OUNT Y
entire animal kingdom, PEDRO 1
including extinct species 0 miles 2



058-059_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 58 20/02/2017 15:17

Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 59



















Pacific Park® at the Santa Monica Pier
Bob Baker
Disneyland
6 ® 9
Marionette Theater
Over half a century after it
first opened its doors, the “magic MAP T3 • 1345 W 1st St • 213-250-
kingdom” continues to be right on 9995 • Shows: 10:30am Tue–Fri,
top of most children’s must-see lists. 2:30pm Sat & Sun (reservations
A one-, two-, or three-day visit is required) • Adm • www.bobbaker
guaranteed to delight, amaze, and marionettes.com
exhaust the kids, especially since A show at this landmark theater,
expansions have added a second founded in 1963, is a treat. Children
theme park, Disney’s California watch in wonder as the cast of
Adventure , and the Downtown marionettes and puppets sing and
®
Disney entertainment district to dance. All characters are made
®
Disneyland (see pp36–41). on-site, and many are for sale, so
®
you can take some home with you.
Santa Monica Pier
7 Los Angeles Zoo
Pet a sea cucumber, take to
the skies in a Ferris wheel, or watch 0
MAP D1 • 5333 Zoo Drive
local fisherfolk reel in their latest • Open 10am–5pm daily • Closed
catch at this pier. These are just 25 Dec • Adm (free for under 2s)
some of the activities on California’s • www.lazoo.org
oldest amusement pier, whose Kids love the Elephants of Asia
attractions draw over three million exhibit and the Winnick Family
people a year. During summer, a Children’s Zoo, both at the LA Zoo.
free concert series takes place Pet barnyard animals at Muriel’s
on Thursday nights (see p121). Ranch, greet the baby animals in the
nursery, and dress up for interactive
Getty Center
8 play and storytelling
Family Room
at the Adventure
Five discovery “coves” highlight Theater here.
different art forms from sculpture to
photography. Children can decorate Chimpanzees,
an illuminated manuscript, build a Los Angeles
tube sculpture, or design a mask. A Zoo
treasure-hunt wall focuses on details
from museum works that you can
later visit. “Detective cards” allow
kids to become active observers
once in the galleries (see pp16–19).
058-059_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 59 23/03/2017 14:13

60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Hollywood Connections

















DC Universe: The Exhibit, part of the Warner Bros Tour
Warner Bros Tour
Larry Edmunds
1 3
Bookshop
MAP D1 • 3400 Riverside Dr,
Burbank • 818-846-1403 • Adm MAP P2 • 6644 Hollywood Blvd
• www.wbstudiotour.com • 323-463-3273 • www.larry
This excellent three-hour tour provides edmunds.com
a thorough look at both the glamor- Books about animation, acting, and
ous history as well as the day-to-day Hollywood history, as well as historic
working reality of a major motion movie posters, publicity stills, and
picture studio. Watch an introductory screen plays – this store has it all.
movie, visit the museum, and out-
American Cinematheque
door sets. Tour routes vary. 4
To listen to Hollywood actors
Samuel French Theatre
2 and directors discuss movies, attend
and Film Bookshop
screenings by this group at the
MAP N3 • 7623 Sunset Blvd • 866- historic Egyptian Theatre (see p13 &
598-8449 • www.samuelfrench.com p62). The schedule ranges from
This purveyor of printed Hollywood retrospectives to filmmaker tributes.
material is geared to the needs of
It’s a Wrap!
professional actors and screen- 5
writers. The company also publishes MAP D1 • 3315 W Magnolia
and leases scripts of live plays. Blvd, Burbank • 818-567-7366
• www.itsawraphollywood.com
Much of the clothing worn by actors
ends up here. There are bargains
galore, and each item sports a tag
identifying the show it appeared on.
TMZ Hollywood Tour
6
MAP P2 • 6925 Hollywood
Blvd • 855-486-9868 • Tours: check
website for timings • Adm
• www.tmz.com/tour
This two-hour, open-air bus tour is
run by the TV show, TMZ. Guides are
poised to spot celebrities and inter-
view them on the street. An edgy, fast
The Samuel French bookshop look at current hot star hangouts.


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Hollywood Connections ❮❮ 61

Sony Pictures
7 TOP 10 LA SCANDALS
Studio Tour
MAP D2 • 10202 W Washington Blvd,
Culver City • 310-244-8687
• Tours: call for schedule, reservations
required • Adm
This giant movie lot was the historic
home of the famous MGM, producer
of well-known classics such as The
Wizard of Oz, until purchased by Sony
in 1990. The two-hour walking tour
may include a visit to the set of the
game show Jeopardy.
Fatty Arbuckle’s police headshot
Paramount Pictures
8 1 Fatty Arbuckle
Studio Tour
MAP R4 • 5555 Melrose Ave The silent-era funnyman was charged
with the murder of actress Virginia
• 323-956-1777 • Adm • www. Rappe in 1921, thus ending his career.
paramountstudiotour.com 2 Errol Flynn
See the famous New York back lot A hard-living swashbuckler whose
and learn about the history of this penchant for teenage girls earned
working movie studio on a two-hour him a statutory rape charge in 1942.
tour. Reservations required. 3 Lana Turner
The actress’s mobster lover was found
stabbed to death in her house in 1958.
Her teenage daughter, Cheryl Crane,
took the blame.
4 Sharon Tate
Tate, 8½ months pregnant, was among
the victims of the Charles Manson
murders in 1969.
5 John Belushi
A drug overdose ended this Blues
Brother’s life at age 33 in 1982 at
Paramount Pictures Studio entrance the Chateau Marmont Hotel.
Margaret Herrick
9 6 O. J. Simpson
The football star was cleared of the
Library
MAP L6 • 333 S La Cienega Blvd, murder of Nicole Brown Simpson and
Ron Goldman in 1994.
Beverly Hills • 310-247-3000 7 Heidi Fleiss
• Open 10am–5:30pm Mon, Thu, & This infamous Hollywood madame,
Fri, 10am–8pm Tue • ID required who ran an elite call-girl racket,
It’s easy to get lost in this repository received 37 months in jail in 1997.
of movie-related books and publica- 8 George Michael
tions, operated by the Academy of The pop singer was sentenced to a fine
Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. and community service in 1998 for
lewd behavior in public.
Audiences Unlimited
0 9 Hugh Grant
www.tvtickets.com
A great way to see stars live is to Caught in a sexual act with a prostitute
in his car, he was given two years’
be part of a studio audience. This probation and a fine in 1995.
organization handles the distribution 10 Winona Ryder
of free tickets to live tapings, mainly Convicted of shoplifting $5,500 worth of
of game shows and sitcoms. Book goods in 2002, the actress got probation,
early for the best selection. Tickets com munity service, and a fine.
are available online 30 days ahead.



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62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Movie Theaters


Pacific Theatres
1 good reason. Enjoy recently released
at The Grove
movies while sitting in large and
MAP N5 • 189 The Grove Drive, luxurious leather chairs.
Midtown • 323-692-0164
ArcLight Cinemas
State-of-the-art meets Art Deco 4
charm at this 14-screen complex and Cinerama Dome
that evokes the grand theaters of MAP Q3 • 6360 W Sunset Blvd
early LA. Great for star sightings. • 323-464-4226
The exquisite 14-screen ArcLight is
the shiny neighbor of the futuristic
Cinerama Dome (see p101). The
lobby leads to a lively café-bar with
terrace. Good for star sightings.
The Egyptian Theatre
5
MAP P2 • 6712 Hollywood
Blvd • 323-466-3456
This oldest of Hollywood Boulevard’s
themed 1920s movie palaces (see
Cinefamily at the Silent Movie Theatre p13) today hous es the American
Cinematheque. It presents art house
Cinefamily
2 fare and the documentary Forever
Hollywood on weekends.
MAP M4 • 611 N Fairfax Ave,
Midtown • 323-655-2510
California Science
• www.cinefamily.org 6
The movies of Charlie Chaplin, Center IMAX Theater
Rudolph Valentino, and other silent- MAP D2 • 700 Exposition Park Dr
era legends reel off once a month at • 323-744-7400 • www.california
the nation’s only remaining silent- sciencecenter.org
movie theater. There is a full IMAX stands for “maximum image”
program of regular features, too. and with a screen that is seven-
stories tall and 90-ft (27-m) wide,
Cinemark 18 & XD
3 it’s a fitting name. A six-channel
MAP D3 • 6081 Center Dr,
surround-sound system ensures
off Fwy 405 • 310-568-3375 total sensory immersion (see p86).
This cutting-edge theater has been
subtitled “cinema de lux” for very California Science Center IMAX Theater


















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Movie Theaters ❮❮ 63

The Nuart Theatre
7 TOP 10 OSCAR FACTS
MAP C2 • 11272 Santa Monica
Blvd • 310-281-8223
• www.landmarktheaters.com
One of LA’s finest inde pendent
theaters, this shows movies that
most multiplexes would avoid. The
cult classic The Rocky Horror Picture
Show still runs every Saturday.
TCL Chinese
8
Theatre IMAX
MAP P2 • 6925 Hollywood Blvd •
323-464-6266
This flashy 1927 Chinese fantasy
palace (see p12) is still the site of movie Oscar-winner Jack Nicholson
premieres. Catch a block buster here 1 How the Oscar got its Name
– you never know who you might be The statuette got its name in 1931
sitting next to. The sixplex next door after future Academy executive
has none of the original’s historic flair. director Margaret Herrick remarked
that it resembled her uncle Oscar.
2 Oscar by Numbers
The 13.5-inch (34-cm) tall, 8.5-lb
(3.9-kg) Oscar has been handed to
winners more than 2,900 times.
3 Top Four Oscar-winning Films
Ben Hur, Titanic, and Lord of the Rings:
Return of the King gained 11 awards
each. West Side Story received ten.
4 Actor with Most Oscars
A tie – Walter Brennan, Daniel
Day-Lewis and Jack Nicholson have
each won three times.
TCL Chinese Theatre IMAX 5 Actress with Most Oscars
Bing Theater at LACMA
9 Katherine Hepburn, who won the
Oscar four times.
MAP N6 • 5905 Wilshire Blvd,
Midtown • 323-857-6010 6 All-time Oscar Winner
Walt Disney – 22 awards.
• www.lacma.org 7 Youngest Oscar Winner
LA’s famous art museum (see pp20– Shirley Temple, who was six years
23) presents high-brow retrospec- and 310 days old when she won.
tives of a particular actor or director
in its on-site theater. Catch classic 8 Oscar Controversy
In 1972, Marlon Brando refused the
films for cheap on Tuesdays at 1pm. Best Actor award in protest against
El Capitan Theatre
0 the US government’s mistreatment
of Native Americans.
MAP P2 • 6838 Hollywood
Blvd • 323-467-7674 9 Oscar Venues
The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel,
Old-time Hollywood glamour has Ambassador Hotel, Shrine Auditorium,
returned to LA courtesy of the famed Pantages Theatre, and The Dolby
Walt Disney Company, which has (current) are the famous ones.
restored this 1926 theater (see p13). 10 Oscar Parties
It now functions as a first-run The official post-award Governor’s Ball,
cinema showing Disney flicks, held since 1957, moved in 2002 to the
sometimes preceded by lavish Hollywood & Highland Grand Ballroom.
live shows.


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64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Performing Arts Venues


Pantages Theatre
1 outdoor amphitheater presents a
MAP Q2 • 6233 Hollywood
multicultural program of music,
Blvd • 323-468-1770 dance, film, and theater.
• www.hollywoodpantages.com
Greek Theatre
This Art Deco jewel (see p12) has 5
been restored to its 1929 glory. Once MAP D2 • 2700 N Vermont Ave
a movie palace, its eye­popping • 323-665-5857 • www.
auditorium hosted the Academy greektheatrela.com
Awards from 1949–59. Tucked into a hillside in Griffith Park,
the popular Greek Theatre (see p34)
has featured such musical greats as
B. B. King. Stars leave their hand­
prints on the Wall of Fame.
Theatricum Botanicum
6
MAP B2 • 1419 N Topanga
Canyon Blvd • 310-455-3723
• www.theatricum.com
This lovely theater venue was the
brainchild of Will Geer, best known
for his portrayal of Grandpa in the
1970s TV series The Waltons. The
productions are popular classics.
7
Walt Disney Concert Hall auditorium Hollywood Bowl
Concerts beneath the stars
Walt Disney
2 at this natural amphitheater are a
Concert Hall
summer tradition. The range extends
This Frank Gehry creation, the from Beethoven and The Beatles
newest part of the Music Center, to cabaret and rock. Enjoy a picnic
features cleverly designed seating before the show. Cheap tickets are
that makes listening to the LA available for some shows (see p100).
Philharmonic Orchestra beneath
the sail­like ceiling an unforgettable
experience (see p48 & p78).
Music Center
3
MAP V4 • 135 N Grand Ave,
Downtown • 213-972-7211
This three­venue arts center
represents LA culture. The LA Opera,
directed by Plácido Domingo, makes
its home at the Dorothy Chandler
Pavilion, while cutting­edge plays
are presented at the Ahmanson
Theater and the Mark Taper Forum.
Ford Amphitheatre
4
MAP P1 • 2580 Cahuenga
Blvd E • 323-461-3673 • www.
fordtheatres.org
Built in 1920 and embraced by
the Hollywood Hills, this intimate Fireworks display, Hollywood Bowl





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Performing Arts Venues ❮❮ 65



TOP 10 COMEDY CLUBS
1 The Laugh Factory
8001 Sunset Blvd • 323-656-1336
Features big name acts and promising
newcomers of all ethnic backgrounds.
2 The Groundlings
7307 Melrose Ave • 323-934-4747
TV star Lisa Kudrow (of the TV series
Friends) graduated from here.
3 The Improv
8162 Melrose Ave • 323-651-2583
Robin Williams tickled funny bones at
this famous haunt with an eatery.
4 iO West
6366 Hollywood Blvd
• 323-962-7560
Los Angeles branch of the famous
Chicago original.
5 Comedy Store
8433 Sunset Blvd • 323-650-6268
Legendary club. Launched the careers
of Jim Carrey and Michael Keaton.
The exterior of the Dolby Theatre
6 Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre
Dolby Theatre
8 5919 Franklin • 323-908-8702
Comedians from the eponymous
MAP P2 • 6801 Hollywood
Blvd • 323-308-6300 • Half-hourly training center perform improv and
sketch comedy on a small stage in
tours: 10:30am–4pm daily • Adm an intimate atmosphere.
• www.dolbytheatre.com 7 ACME Comedy Theater
Home of the Academy Awards since 135 N La Brea Ave • 323-525-0202
2002, this is a stunning venue with a Presents the best troupe for sketch
five-level lobby and a grand spiral comedy in LA in its own theater.
staircase. Dolby 3-D video imaging 8 The Comedy & Magic Club
and advanced audio technology add 1018 Hermosa Ave, Hermosa Beach
to the enjoyment. • 310-372-1193
Famous comics including Jay Leno (on
Royce Hall
9 most Sundays) test new material here.
MAP C2 • UCLA Campus,
Westwood • 310-825-2101 9 The Ice House
24 N Mentor Ave, Pasadena
• www.cap.ucla.edu • 626-577-1894
One of UCLA’s original buildings, the One of the US’s oldest comedy clubs.
1929 Romanesque Royce Hall (see 10 HaHa Café
p116) once hosted greats such as 5010 Lankershim Blvd
George Gershwin. Today, the hall • 818-508-4995
pres ents an avant-garde calendar This club nurtures budding comics.
of dance, music, and theater events.
Microsoft Theater
0
MAP S6 • 777 Chick Hearn
Court • 213-763-6030
• www.microsofttheater.com
This venue presents concerts on
the largest indoor stage in Southern
California. The theater also hosts
awards shows such as the ESPY The Comedy Store
Awards and the Primetime Emmys.



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66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Restaurants



















Water Grill, with upscale decor and some of the best seafood in LA
Water Grill
1 innovative French-California cuisine
A premier seafood joint, this
to new heights. The melt-in-your-
is usually packed with patrons mouth côte de boeuf, served table-
appreciative of the dock-fresh fare side, is indi cative of the kitchen’s
and superb service. Chef Michael lofty aspirations. Try the chef’s
Cimarusti turns each dish superb tasting menu.
into a celebration of bold
Providence
flavors and pleasing 3
textures. The yummy MAP Q4 • 5955
white clam chouder Melrose Ave • 323-
and hand-cut tuna 460-4170 • $$$
tartare are outstand- Don’t be fooled by
ing, and the oyster bar this restaurant’s bland
scores high with the pre- exterior. It is an LA
theater crowd (see p83). Sea urchin, institution serving some
Providence of the West Coast’s best
Patina
2 series of sep arate, elegant dining
seafood. From the
MAP U4 • Walt Disney Concert
Hall, 141 S Grand Ave • 213-972-3331 areas, choose the intimate patio
• $$$ room if you are in search of a
A long-time darling of food critics romantic evening. Fresh truffles
and gourmets, Patina is where star are a specialty, as are the changing
chef Joachim Splichal takes his tasting menus and wine pairings.
0 km 5 WEST Echigo
HOLLYWOOD SILVER LAKE 4
0 miles 5 101 Elysian Fine, imaginatively
405 BEVERLY HOLLYWOOD FWY Park presented sushi of all
HILLS WILSHIRE BLVD
BRENTWOOD DOWNTOWN types is the only offering
at this eatery. The ambi-
PICO BLVD VENICE BOULEVARD ence is simple and plain,
10
SANTA MONICA FWY
LOS ANGELES with only 12 seats at the
10 LA CIENEGA BLVD
COUNTY L-shaped bar and service
VENICE BLVD 90 SLAUSON AVE HARBOR FWY 90 AVALON is attentive. The omakase
INGLEWOOD BLVD (chef’s choice) is out-
MARINA DEL REY standing (see p113).
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p83
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Restaurants ❮❮ 67

Matsuhisa
5
This is the original of a small
chain of restaurants serving Nobu
Matsuhisa’s inspired Japanese-
Peruvian fusion fare. The sushi is
impeccable and the tempura extra-
light, but the chef’s talent really lies
in cooked seafood dishes, many
paired with Nobu’s perky sauces.
Celebrity sightings are likely. Make
reservations several days in advance
to avoid the rush (see p119).
Spago Beverly Hills
6 Alfresco dining, Michael’s
A favorite with the rich and
Michael’s
famous and a great place to sample 8
California cuisine. The menu pairs MAP B3 • 1147 3rd St, Santa
supreme cuts of meat or fish with Monica • 310-451-0843 • Dis. access
seasonal side dishes such as chan- • Veg: Yes • $$$$
terelle mushrooms. The lox pizza is A pioneer of California cuisine,
always popular. Early reservations Michael’s serves Oscar-worthy
essential (see p54 & p119). cuisine in a luscious garden setting,
making it one of the best alfresco
Valentino
7 dining spots in all LA. The food
MAP C2 • 3115 Pico Blvd, Santa
delights both the eye and palate.
Monica • 310-829-4313
Mélisse
• Dis. access • Veg: Yes • $$$ 9
For over 40 years, Piero Selvaggio MAP B3 • 1104 Wilshire Blvd,
has delighted diners with his charm Santa Monica • 310-395-0881
and inspired Italian cuisine. His • Dis. access • Veg: Yes • $$$$
150,000 – plus cellar of handpicked Consistently ranked as the top food
Italian wines is outstanding. So spot in LA, Josiah Citrin’s two-
are the ingredients, many of them Michelin-starred Mélisse uses fresh
imported from Italy. Insiders ignore local ingre dients to create classic
the menu and try the “extravaganza,” French cuisine with a modern twist.
a series of delicious treats. Seasonal white truffle and game
menus also feature. A gorgeous
Wine cellar private room, Valentino dining room and expertly trained
staff add to a dining experience
that borders on perfection.
Maude
0
212 S Beverly Drive, Beverly
Hills • 310-859-3418 • $$$$
You must reserve online over
a month in advance to dine at
Australian celebrity chef Curtis
Stone’s unassuming restaurant.
With only 25 seats, the atmosphere
is intimate and cozy, and the service
is incredibly friendly. Each month
a different ingredient is featured –
pistachios, black truffles, or
pomegranates, as examples – and
a ten-course meal is derived from
there. Exceptional.





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68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Shopping Streets


Third Street Promenade
1 Gabbana, Chanel, and Versace. For
better prices, walk just two blocks
A carnival atmosphere reigns
on this popular pedestrian-only strip, east to Beverly Drive.
especially during the summer
months. Upscale chains such as
Fred Segal and Anthropologie
dominate, with a few bookstores and
old-timers including the Puzzle Zoo
toy store thrown in (see pp121).
Montana Avenue
2
MAP B3 • Between 7th
& 17th Sts, Santa Monica
You’re likely to bump into cel ebrities
in the upscale boutiques on Montana
Avenue. It’s fun pee king at the
clothes, home furnish ings, beauty
products, and exercise gear favored
by fashionistas.
Shopping on Robertson Boulevard
Old Town Pasadena
3 Robertson Boulevard
Once an ancient crumbling
historic district, Old Town Pasa dena 5
MAP L5 • Between 3rd St &
was given a makeover in the 1990s. Beverly Blvd
Today, Colorado Boulevard and its Price tags are steep at the boutiques
side streets offer pleasant shopping on this ultracool two-block stretch,
in mostly mid-priced chains and but you may be browsing next to
specialty stores (see p93). celebrities such as Cameron Diaz or
Jennifer Aniston. Part of the mix are
Rodeo Drive
4 cutting-edge LA designers.
A stroll along this fabled Los
Melrose Avenue
Angeles shopping street (see p115 & 6
p118) is a must. All the big names in Tattooed 20-somethings pick
haute couture have up vintage clothing, eccentric club-
Rodeo staked out their wear, and jewelry in stores between
Drive turf on Rodeo, La Brea Boulevard and Fairfax
including Ralph Avenue (see p112). West of Fairfax is
Lauren, Armani, a newer designer enclave and
Balenciaga, farther west, the Pacific Design
Valentino, Center (see p109) is more about
Dolce & trendy home furnishings.
















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Shopping Streets ❮❮ 69

Main Street,
7 TOP 10 SHOPPING MALLS
Santa Monica
A laid-back yet sophisticated string
of one-of-a-kind boutiques (with
the odd chain store thrown in), Main
Street makes for a fun shopping
experience with plenty of cafés for
people-watching. On Sundays, catch
the farmers' market (see p125).
Abbot Kinney Boulevard
8
MAP B5 • Between Venice Blvd
& Main St Santa Monica Place
The pint-sized stores here teem with 1 The Grove at Farmers Market
character, not to mention characters. 323-900-8000
This is Venice, after all: laid-back, Outdoor mall with mock streetscape
hip, and plenty artistic. Fans of 1950s and fountains (see p107).
furniture, New Agers in search of 2 Beverly Center
aura-enhancing elixirs, and gift MAP L5 • 310-854-0070
shoppers will find all that they want. Upscale retail assortment within a
fortress-like facade.
3 Santa Monica Place
MAP B3 • 310-394-5451
Frank Gehry-designed mall with great
food courts.
4 Glendale Galleria
MAP D1 • 818-240-9481
Dedicated mall-crawlers will love the
250 mostly mid-priced stores.
5 Southcoast Plaza
MAP G4 • 1-800-782-8888
Over 250 boutiques have made this
Quirky shop, Abbot Kinney Boulevard mall – one of the largest in the US – an
international shopping destination.
Santee Alley
9 6 Westfield Century City
MAP C2 • 310-553-5300
MAP T6 • Between Olympic
Blvd & 12th St, Downtown Elegant shopping area with boutiques
and valet parking.
Bargain hunters will love this
pedestrian-only lane, the busiest in 7 Paseo Colorado
the Fashion District and the center MAP E1 • 626-795-8891
of LA’s garment industry. In a setting Trendy Pasadena “urban village”
with 65 stores and Mediterranean-
reminiscent of an Oriental bazaar, style architecture.
vendors hawk cut-rate clothing,
accessories, and luggage. Alas, fakes 8 Hollywood & Highland
are not uncommon, so beware. MAP P2 • 323-467-6412
Choose between 75 stores beneath
West Third Street
0 the Hollywood Sign at this fanciful
outdoor mall in Tinseltown.
MAP M5 • Between La Cienega
Blvd & Fairfax Ave, W Hollywood 9 Westfield Fashion Square
MAP C1 • 818-783-0550
Between the Beverly Center and the Indoor mall that prides itself on
Original Farmers Market, this mile- outstanding service.
long shopping strip is one of the hip- 10 7th+Fig
pest in LA. The bounty ranges from MAP T5 • 213-955-7150
gift stores such as Raena to local Fun architecture, great food, and a
LA-made fashions at Nathalie colorful farmers’ market on Thursdays.
Seaver Boutique.

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70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Los Angeles for Free


Foucault pendulum. Free
public star parties are held
once a month. Parking is
free (see p34–5)
Be in the
4
Audience of
a TV Show
The famous Hollywood Sign in Hollywood Hills www.tvtickets.com • www.
on-camera-audiences.com
Hike to the
1 Free tickets to your favorite comedy,
Hollywood Sign
game, and talk shows are usually
www.hollywoodsign.org distributed on a first-come, first-
Protected by a fence and security served basis. Tickets to the more
cameras, the famous 45-ft- (14-m-) popular shows go fast, so reserve
tall aluminum letters cannot be in advance. If you are wandering
reached, but you can get pretty close. around the Farmers Market or
Three trails wind upwards through Grove shopping center, you may
native chaparral, home to abundant be approached to fill a seat at the
wildlife – chickadees and hawks, and nearby CBS Studio.
occasional deer. Trails are graded
easy to difficult, and vary in distance
from 3–6.5 miles (5–10.5 km).
Downtown Art Walk
2
Walks noon–10pm, second
Thu each month • www.
downtownartwalk.org
Galleries and art exhibitions on
Spring and Main between 2nd and
9th streets host an open house for
the community with live music,
talks and activities. Aquarium, California Science Center
California
Griffith Observatory
3 5
Science Center
Visiting the grounds and iconic
Art Deco-style observatory are Free permanent exhibitions feature
free to the public. City views are lots of hands-on activities. Examine
spectacular. Gaze at the stars an astronaut’s suit; learn how bodily
through the Zeiss telescope on organs work together, and explore
a clear night or wonder at a an underwater kelp forest and polar
research station. This is a great place
Griffith Observatory for kids of all ages (see p86).
The Getty Center
6
This is one of LA’s great
community draws, offering fantastic
city-wide views, art exhibitions,
gardens, tours, and lectures. Many
live musical performances are free
too. You only pay for parking, but
LA Metro buses stop right at the
entrance (see pp16–19).





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Los Angeles for Free ❮❮ 71



TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
1 Free Museum Days
Museums that normally charge
admission are free one day a week
or once a month.
2 Theater Tickets
www.theatreinla.com
Get half-price theater tickets for
selected plays through Theatre in LA.
3 Go Los Angeles Card
www.smartdestinations.com
Exhibit at the Page Museum A 1- to 7-day pass to nearly 30
attractions, museums, and tours.
La Brea Tar Pits
7 4 Shop at Farmers’ Markets
Put together a picnic of reasonably
5801 Wilshire Blvd • 323-857-
6300 • www.tarpits.org priced fresh, local food from outdoor
You can wander around the tar pits markets located throughout LA.
and the life-size prehistoric animal 5 Happy Hour
models, and contemplate the 40,000 On late weekday afternoons, many
years of hot bubbling asphalt without restaurants offer discounted menu
charge, but paid admission is required items in the bar area.
for the adjacent Page Museum and its 6 Senior discounts
impressive fossil collection. Senior citizens qualify for substantial
discounts on transportation, museum
Hollywood Bowl
8 admissions, movies, and Hollywood
Bowl concerts.
Free Rehearsals
During the summer on Tuesday, 7 Save on Gas
Thursday, and some Friday mornings ARCO gas stations are the cheapest,
from 9am to noon, you can sit in the but accept cash or debit card only.
historic bowl and watch rehearsals. 8 Save on Parking
The outdoor setting is gorgeous, so Selected lots at Metro Rail and
bring a picnic lunch. The adjacent Metrolink stations have free parking
for transit users.
Hollywood Bowl Museum is also
free (see p100). 9 Disney Tickets
Credit unions, teacher unions, and the
Visit Gravesites
9 Auto Club sometimes offer slightly
discounted tickets. Never buy a partly
of the Stars
www.seeing-stars.com/buried used pass from anybody.
The final resting places of famous 10 Get Rid of the Rental Car
movie stars are located across the at Disneyland
If staying multiple days, you don’t
LA area. Hollywood Forever hands need a car. Anaheim hotels run free
out a map to help you find your or low-cost shuttles to Disneyland.
favorite celebrity. All are open to
the public.
Free Music Concerts
0
at LACMA
LACMA sponsors free one-hour
concerts every weekend. You’ll hear
jazz on Friday nights and classical on
Sundays. Concerts start at 5 or 6pm.
During the summer on Saturday
evenings, it’s Latin music. Venues
are either the BP Grand Entrance or ARCO gas station
the Bing Theatre (see pp20–23).

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72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Drives and Day Trips


Mulholland Drive
1
MAP C1
Named after William Mulholland,
the architect of the Los Angeles
aqueduct, this quintessential LA road
winds for about 25 miles (40 km)
along a Santa Monica Mountains
ridge from Hollywood to the western
San Fernando Valley. On clear days,
the panoramic views over Los
Angeles county are truly stunning.
Mission San
2
Gabriel Arcangel
MAP E2 • 428 S Mission Dr,
San Gabriel • 626-457-3035
• Open 9am–4:30pm daily • Adm
Heavy flooding forced the fourth of
the California missions to move here
five years after it was founded in Mission San Fernando Rey de España
1771. Though struck twice by earth­
Mission San Fernando
quakes, it prospered with the help of 4
Indian converts, many of whom are Rey de España
buried here. The grounds are pep­ 15151 San Fernando Mission Blvd,
pered with fountains and fireplaces. Mission Hills • 818-361-0186
A small museum has other exhibits. • Open 9am–4:30pm daily • Adm
The 17th of the 21 missions founded
by Franciscans in California, San
Fernando was established in 1797
to supply food for El Pueblo de Los
Angeles. The mission church is
an exact replica of the original,
destroyed in the 1971 Sylmar
earthquake. The adjacent convento
(living quarters) is the state’s largest
surviving adobe structure.
Six Flags
5
Magic Mountain
Knott’s Berry Farm entrance 26101 Magic Mountain Parkway,
Valencia • 661-255-4104 • Open late
Knott’s Berry Farm
3 Mar–early Sep: 12:30–6pm daily; rest
8039 Beach Blvd, Buena Park
of the year: weekends & hols • Adm
• 714-220-5200 • Check website for • www.sixflags.com
opening hours • www.knotts.com The Holy Grail for roller­coaster
The first theme park in the US, Old junkies, Six Flags has more ways
West­themed Knott’s Berry Farm is to catapult, spin, loop, spiral, and
known for its gut­wrenching roller twist than you or your stomach can
coasters. Teens love the Xcelerator imagine. Favorite white­knuckle
and the Supreme Scream, while rides include X, the world’s first four­
Camp Snoopy charms younger dimensional coaster, and Superman:
children. Five themed areas offer The Escape, which has you free­
entertainment for all ages. falling for 6.5 seconds.





072-073_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 72 20/02/2017 15:17

Drives and Day Trips ❮❮ 73

Santa Barbara
Nixon Presidential
6 9
Library and Museum
and Wine Country
On Hwy 101, about 90 miles (145 km) 18001 Yorba Linda Blvd, Yorba Linda
north of LA • 714-993-3393 • Open 10am–5pm
This graceful “Mediterranean” town, daily (from 11am Sun) • Adm
with its Spanish-style architecture • www.nixonlibrary.gov
and villa-studded hillsides, is imbued This memorial to the 37th US
with an unpretentious charm. Apart president (1913–94) includes a
from its stately mission building and museum, gardens, and the restored
historical adobes, it is also a must 1910 farmhouse where he was born.
visit for wine connoisseurs. Head Exhibits focus on Nixon’s achieve-
for the tasting rooms of the wine ments, but also include a gallery
country around Santa Ynez, a about Watergate. A re-creation of the
45-minute drive away. Lincoln Sitting Room, Nixon’s favorite
in the White House, is a highlight.
Queen Mary
7
MAP E4 • 1126 Queen Hwy,
Long Beach • 800-437-2934
• Open 10am–6pm • Adm
• www.queenmary.com
Once the most luxurious of cruise
liners, the Queen Mary whisked as
many as 15,000 soldiers per trip
from the USA to Europe during
World War II. She was retired in 1964
and became a tourist attraction three
years later. Much of the Queen Mary,
which also contains a hotel, can be
explored on self-guided tours. Reagan’s re-created office
Ventura and Channel
Ronald Reagan
8 0
Islands National Park
Presidential Library
On Hwy 101, about 65 miles (105 km) and Museum
north of LA 40 Presidential Dr, Simi Valley • 800-
Ventura’s vibrant Main Street is a 410-8354 • Open 10am–5pm daily
fun place to browse antiques and • Adm • www.reaganlibrary.net
second-hand stores. A look inside A chunk of the Berlin Wall and a
the Mission San Buenaventura is re-created Oval Office are the high-
also worthwhile. The town is the lights of this museum devoted to
gateway to the magnificent Channel the 40th US president (1911–2004).
Islands National Park. Excursions Exhibits trace Reagan’s life from his
to the islands leave from Ventura childhood, through his Hollywood
Harbor year-round. career to his political ascent.
Ventura and Channel Islands
National Park
















072-073_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 73 20/02/2017 15:17

Los Angeles

Area by Area












The Griffith Observatory overlooking
Downtown Los Angeles















































074-075_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 74 20/02/2017 15:17

Downtown 76
Around Downtown 84
Pasadena 90
Hollywood 98
West Hollywood and Midtown 106
Beverly Hills, Westwood,
and Bel-Air 114
Santa Monica Bay 120
Coastal Orange County 128

















































074-075_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 75 20/02/2017 15:17

76 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Downtown


Downtown LA is a microcosm of the city’s past,
present, and future. El Pueblo commemorates the
city’s Spanish origins, while Chinatown and Little Tokyo
are vibrant communities. The city’s financial center,
along Flower and Figueroa streets, sits in sharp
contrast to the early 20th-century architecture
around Pershing Square. Cultural sites include the
renowned Museum of Contemporary Art, the Walt Disney
Concert Hall, and the galleries of the Arts District. The
Fashion and Jewelry districts also add their own
Olvera Street flair, and Downtown is dominated by L.A. Live,



souvenir a vast sports and entertainment district.



AREA MAP OF DOWNTOWN


China Chinatowntown STREET STREET
ALPINE ST
Top 10 Sights WEST WEST ALPINE ST CLEVELAND STREET CLEVELAND STREET E T S T R E S T R E E T CHINA
CHINAO WN
WEST MACY NORTH SPRING ST T O WNT
NORTH TOLUCA ST COURT STREET
NORTH BEAUDRY AVENUE
see p77–9 COLTON S T R E E T S T R E E T NORTH BUNKER HILL AVE NORTH BUNKER HILL AVE ALPINE ST STREET MAIN
ALPINE ST WAY
STREET MAIN
BRUNO
BRUNO
Places to Eat NORTH TOLUCA ST COURT STREET SANTA ANA FREEWAY B OSTON STREET YA L E YA L E BROADWAY
Vista Hermosa
WEST MACY NORTH SPR

see p83 Natur Natural Parkal Park NORTH BEAUDRY AVENUE Y BROAD S T R E E T S T R E E T
Vista Hermosa STREET
COLTON STREET
B OSTON STREET
The Best of the Rest WEST WEST TE TE ORD ORD ST NEW HIGH STREET ING ST NORTH NORTH NORTH
TEED ST
TEED ST ST
see p80 STREET H A R B O R F R E E W A Y WEST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVENUE NEW HIGH STREET
NORTH
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
NORTH GRAND AVENUE
N FREMONT AVE M P L E
N FREMONT AVE M P L E
F I G U E R O A
F I G U E R O A
Public Art 2ND 2ND H A R B O R F R E E W A D AVENUE NORTH NORTH VIGNES
DEWAP ROAD
DEWAP ROAD
PUEBL O L A M E D A
VIGNES
see p82 W E S T 1 S T S T R E E T W E S STREET STREET
NORTH HOPE ST
NORTH HOPE ST
NORTH HILL STREET

WEST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVENUE
SOUTH BEAUDRY AVENUE
SOUTH BEAUDRY AVENUE
Downtown W E S T 1 S T S T R E E T W E S T 1 S T S T PUEBL O L A M E D A AVILA ST AVILA ST STREET STREET
S O UTH S P RING ST NO R TH SPRI N G ST RE E T EL
EL
S O U T H E T S O UTH S P RING ST N OR TH S PR ING S TRE E T
STREET
Architecture NORTH GRAN S TREE T
A
see p81 Grand P NORTH HILL STREET A EAST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVE
S TREE T
Union
Union
EAST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVE
Grand Parkark
NORTH LOS ANGELES STREET
N O R T H
N O R T H
Patsaourasas
Station
6 T H AVENUE AVENUE 5TH 5TH MARYLAND WES T 3R D S T RE E T Station Patsaour
Transit Plaza
Transit Plaza
W E S T
W E S T
STREET STREET 6 T H S T R E E T STREET SOUTH HOPE ST Civic C NORTH LOS ANGELES STREET N O R T H N O R T H 101 101
MARYLAND
STREET
STREET
Civic Center/enter/
Tom Bradley
STREET
LUCAS
WES T 3R D S T RE E T
Tom Bradley T
SOUTH HILL STREE
SOUTH FLOWER STREET
LUCAS S T R E E T
WITMER WES T W I L S H I R E S T R E E T W E S T 4 T H SOUTH HOPE ST T 1 S T S T R E E T EAST TEMPLE ST E AST COMMERC STREETET
WITMER
SOUTH OLIVE STREET
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
SOUTH
SOUTH HILL STREET R E E T
SOUTH
S T R E E T
DUCOMMUN REY IA
BROA D WAY
BROA D WAY

E AST COMMERC L STREET
NORTH VIGNES STREET
DUCOMMUN
INGRAHAM
INGRAHAM
E A S T T E M P L E S T VIGNES STRE
STREET
STREET
SOUTH MAIN ST
STREET
STREET
GARLAND AVE GARLAND AVE 7 T H ST R E E T SOUTH FLOWER STREET SOUTH OLIVE STREET SOUTH MAIN ST ANG EL ES ST E A S T T E M P L E
ANG EL ES ST

EAST TEMPLE ST
W E S T 4 T H
WES T 7 T H ST R E E T A Y
H A R B O R F R E E W W 7th Street/ WEST 6TH STREE T Square E A S T S T R E E T T O S T R E E T S T R E E T S T RE E T EA S T RE E T ST 1ST
Little T
Little Tokyo/okyo/
NORTH
Pershing
S T R
Arts Distric
Arts Districtt
S T R E
EAST 2ND
EAST 2ND
Square
Pershing E E T
S O U T H
7th Street/
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA R D
H A R B O R F R E E W A Y B O U L E VA R D
W E S T 5 T H
PERSHING
SOUTH FLOWER STREET Metro Station
Metro Station
E A S T
S T R E E T
EAST 1ST STREET
HOPE STREET
SQU
SOUTH HOPE STREET
SQUAREARE
TOWNE AVENUE AV E N U E
STREET
STREET
SOUTH LO S
LIT
LIT TLETLE
SOUTH LO S
F I G U E R O A
T O K YOK YO
PERSHING S T R E E T
W E S T 5 T H S T R E E T

SO U T H S PR I N G S T R E E T
COU R T S T R E E T
W A LL S T
W A LL S T
BOYD ST
BOYD ST
FRANCISCO
FRANCISCO SOUTH FLOWER STREET A AV E N U E WEST 7TH STREE T S PR I N G S T R E E T S T R E E T E A S T WINSTON STREET STAN
3 R D
3 R D
DISTRICT V E N U E
FINANCIAL
WEST 6TH STREE T
W E S T 8
COU R T
DISTRICT
S T R E E T
O L I V E ST
SOUTH HEWITT ST
SOUTH HEWITT ST
W E S T ST
E A S T
TOWNE AVENUE
WEST
WEST
WINSTON STREET
WEST 7TH STREE T
E A S T 4 T H S
OLYMPIC
OLYMPIC
FINANCIAL T H S T R E E T WAY
5 T H
5 T H
EAST 6TH STREET SAN PEDRO
MAPLE T H ST RE E T OUTH SAN PEDRO
F I G U E R O A E S T 8 T H S T R E E T
P L AC E S T RE E T

TRACTION AVE
E A S T 4 T H S T R E E T
TRACTION AVE
CROCKER STREE T T R E E T
W E S T

O L I V E
STANFORD AVENUE

S O U T H S O U T H SOUTH SOUTH BOULE G R A N D G R A N D 9 T H ST R S T RE E T BROA D F R ANK BROA D WAY SO U T H M A I N M A I N E A S T S TREE T S TREE T EAST
AVENUE
BOULEVARD P L AC E
WA LL ST RE E T
WA LL ST RE E T
F R ANK
S S ANGELES
E A S T 7
MAPLE
H I LL E E T
S T R E E T
9 T H ST R E E T
AVENUE 6TH STREET
S O U T H
E A S T 4 T H S T
SOU TH
SOU TH
MIDWAY
EA
SO UT H
SO UT H
0 met 0 metersers 400 400 SOUTH VARD MIDWAY H I LL S O U T H S O U T H S O U T H LO S S ANGELES 7 T H ST RE E T J U L I A N J U L I A N SOUTH
W E S T 1 1 T H S T
W E S T 1 1 T H S T
0 yar 0 yardsds 400 400 550 y 550 yardsards S A N S A N S 1 mile 1 mile PALMETTO ST
PALMETTO ST
LO ST 8TH ST
EAST 8TH ST
076-079_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 76 20/02/2017 15:17

Downtown ❮❮ 77

El Pueblo de
1
Los Angeles
This historic district near LA’s 1781
founding site com prises buildings
dating back to the early 19th century,
when the city was just an outpost
under Mexican rule. Its main artery,
Olvera Street, has been restored to a
lively lane lined with Mexican trinket
shops and restaurants (see pp24–5).
Union Station
2
MAP X4 • 800 N Alameda St
Built in 1939 during the golden age
of railroad travel, Union Station One of Union Station’s grand halls
blends tradi tional Spanish Mission


elements with Modernist Art Deco touches. Its lofty main waiting room
is graced with a coffered wooden

AREA MAP OF DOWNTOWN ceiling, highly polished marble
floors, and tall arched windows.

China
WES T WES T ALPINE ST CLEVELAND STREET CLEVELAND S T R E STREET E T S T R E E T CHINA Chinatowntown STREET STREET Union Station has been featured in
several movies, The Hustler (1961)
ALPINE ST
CHINAO WN
WEST MACY NORTH SPRING ST T O WNT
NORTH BEAUDRY AVENUE
NORTH TOLUCA ST COURT STREET
NORTH TOLUCA ST COURT STREET NORTH BEAUDRY AVENUE SANTA ANA FREEWAY S T R E E T S T R E E T NORTH BUNKER HILL AVE NORTH BUNKER HILL AVE YA L E YA L E ALPINE ST BROAD BROADWAY S T
NEW HIGH STREET ING ST
STREET MAIN
ALPINE ST WAY

BRUNO
BRUNO
COLTON
Vista Hermosa
S T R E E T

WEST MACY NORTH SPR
City Hall
NEW HIGH STREET
Natural Parkal Park
Natur
STREET H A R B O R F R E E W A Y F I G U E R O A WEST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVENUE NORTH PUEBL O L A M E D A NORTH NORTH NORTH VIGNES VIGNES • Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri
Y
3
Vista Hermosa STREET
COLTON STREET

H A R B O R F R E E W A
B OSTON STREET
B OSTON STREET
ORD
MAP W4 • 200 N Spring St
TEED ST
TE
TE
TEED ST ST
ORD ST
NORTH
WEST
WEST
NORTH
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
NORTH GRAND AVENUE
D AVENUE
N FREMONT AVE M P L E
N FREMONT AVE M P L E
F I G U E R O A
• Guided tours: 10am–noon
STREET
STREET
DEWAP ROAD
DEWAP ROAD
PUEBL O L A M E D A
2ND
2ND
AVILA ST
AVILA ST
NORTH HOPE ST
This was LA’s tallest building for over
NORTH HILL STREET
WEST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVENUE
NORTH GRAN
SOUTH BEAUDRY AVENUE NORTH HOPE ST Grand Parkark NORTH HILL STREET EL A Station Union Patsaour STREET STREET four decades, with the central tower
SOUTH BEAUDRY AVENUE
S O UTH S P RING ST NOR TH SPRING STR EE T EL
STREET
SO UT H E T S O UTH S P RING ST NOR TH SPRING STR EE T
of this 1928 complex three times
A
S TREE T
S TREE T
higher than the height limit at that
Union
Grand P
EAST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVE
NORTH LOS ANGELES STREET
EAST CESAR E CHAVEZ AVE
N O R T H
N O R T H
Patsaourasas
W E S T 1 S T S T R E E T W E S
Station
time. Renovations have made it
6 T H AVENUE AVENUE 5TH 5TH MARYLAND WES T 3R D S T RE E T Transit Plaza possible for the public to admire its
Transit Plaza
W E S T
W E S T
STREET STREET 6 T H S T R E E T STREET SOUTH HOPE ST Civic C NORTH LOS ANGELES STREET N O R T H N O R T H 101 101 marble-columned rotunda once again.
MARYLAND
STREET
STREET
Civic Center/enter/
W E S T 1 S T S T R E E T W E S T 1 S T S T
Tom Bradley
STREET
LUCAS
Tom Bradley T
WES T 3R D S T RE E T
SOUTH HILL STREE
SOUTH FLOWER STREET
WITMER INGRAHAM W I L S H I R E S T R E E T S T R E E T W E S T 4 T H SOUTH HOPE ST T 1 S T S T R E E T EAST TEMPLE ST E AST COMMERC STREETET City H
LUCAS S T R E E T
WITMER
SOUTH OLIVE STREET
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
SANTA ANA FREEWAY
SOUTH
SOUTH
SOUTH HILL STREET R E E T
on celluloid countless times, most
DUCOMMUN REY IA
B R OA D WAY
B R OA D WAY
famously as the headquarters of
E AST COMMERC L STREET

NORTH VIGNES STREET
DUCOMMUN
INGRAHAM
E A S T T E M P L E S T VIGNES STRE
NORTH GA
STREET
STREET
SOUTH MAIN ST
WES T
STREET
STREET
GARLAND AVE GARLAND AVE 7 T H ST R E E T SOUTH FLOWER STREET SOUTH OLIVE STREET SOUTH MAIN ST ANG EL ES ST E A S T T E M P L E S T
Superman TV series. It

EAST TEMPLE ST
ANG EL ES ST
W E S T 4 T H
WES T 7 T H ST R E E T A Y
was also attacked by
H A R B O R F R E E W W 7th Street/ WEST 6TH STREE T Pershing E E T E A S T S T R E E T T O S T R E E T S T R E E T S T RE E T EA S T RE E T ST 1ST
Little T
Little Tokyo/okyo/
Martians in The War
NORTH
Pershing
S T R
Arts Distric
Arts Districtt
S T R E
EAST 2ND
EAST 2ND
Square
Square
SO UT H
7th Street/
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA R D
H A R B O R F R E E W A Y B O U L E VA R D
W E S T 5 T H
PERSHING
Metro Station
E A S T
S T R E E T
EAST 1ST STREET
SQUAREARE
SQU
HOPE STREET
SOUTH HOPE STREET
OLYMPIC FLOWER STREET
STREET
TOWNE AVENUE AV E N U E
STREET
LIT
SOUTH LO S
LIT TLETLE
SOUTH LO S
Los Angeles
F I G U E R O A
T O K YOK YO
W E S T 5 T H S T R E E T
PERSHING S T R E E T

COU R T STREE T
W A LL S T
W A LL S T
BOYD ST
BOYD ST
FRANCISCO FRANCISCO SOUTH FLOWER STREET Metro Station S OU T H SP R ING STREE T S T R E E T E A S T E A S T WINSTON STREET STANFORD
3 R D
3 R D
DISTRICT V E N U E
AV E N U E
WEST 6TH STREE T
FINANCIAL
W E S T 8
S T R E E T
COU R T
WEST 7TH STREE T SP R ING
DISTRICT
SOUTH HEWITT ST
W E S T ST
S T R E E T
O L I V E ST
SOUTH HEWITT ST
A
TOWNE AVENUE
WEST
WEST
WINSTON STREET
E A S T 4 T H S
WEST 7TH STREE T
OLYMPIC
5 T H
FINANCIAL T H S T R E E T WAY
5 T H
EAST 6TH STREET SAN PEDRO
MAPLE T H ST RE E T OUTH SAN PEDRO
P L AC E S T RE E T
F I G U E R O A E S T 8 T H S T R E E T

TRACTION AVE
TRACTION AVE
E A S T 4 T H S T R E E T
CROCKER STREE T T R E E T
W E S T

O L I V E

S O U T H S O U T H SOUTH SOUTH SOUTH BOULE G R A N D G R A N D 9 T H ST R S T RE E T BR OA D F R AN K BR OA D WAY S OU T H M A I N M A I N E A S T ST R E E T
AVENUE
BOULEVARD P L AC E
F R AN K
WALL S TRE E T
WALL STRE E T
S S ANGELES
MIDWAY H I LL
E A S T 7
MAPLE
9 T H ST R E E T
H I LL E E T
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
AVENUE 6TH STREET
S O U T H
E A S T 4 T H S T
S OUTH
S OUTH
MIDWAY
EA
0 metersers
0 met 400 400 SOUTH VARD S O U T H S O U T H S O U T H S O U T H S O U T H LO S S ANGELES 7 T H ST RE E T J U L I A N J U L I A N SOUTH SO U T H SE
W E S T 1 1 T H S T
W E S T 1 1 T H S T
0 yar 0 yardsds 400 400 550 y 550 yardsards S A N S A N S 1 mile 1 mile PALMETTO ST
PALMETTO ST
EAST 8TH ST
LO ST 8TH ST
076-079_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 77 20/02/2017 15:17

78 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Cathedral of Our
4
Lady of the Angels
MAP V3 • 555 W Temple St
• 213-680-5200 • Open 6:30am–6pm
Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat, 7am–6pm
Sun • Free tours: 1pm Mon–Fri
• www.olacathedral.org
LA’s strikingly modern Roman
Catholic cathedral looms above the
Hollywood Freeway. Enter through
giant bronze doors cast by LA Museum of Contemporary Art
sculptor Robert Graham and guarded
Museum of
by a statue of Our Lady of the Angels. 7
The interior of the cathedral is Contemporary
bathed in a soft light that streams in Art (MOCA)
through the alabaster windows. MAP U4 • 250 S Grand Ave • 213-
626-6222 • Open 11am–5pm Sat &
Little Tokyo
5 Sun, 11am–8pm Thu, 11am–6pm
Wed & Fri • Adm (free after 5pm on
MAP W5 • Bounded by 1st
& 4th, Alameda, & Los Angeles Sts Thu) • www.moca.org
The Japanese have been a presence An early player in Downtown’s
in LA since the 1880s, but redevelop­ cultural renaissance, MOCA
ment in the 1960s replaced most collects and displays art in all
of Little Tokyo with bland modern media from 1940 to the present,
architecture. The few surviving in a building designed by famous
buildings on East First Street are now Japanese architect Arata Isozaki.
a National Historic Landmark. Stop Works by Jackson Pollock, Andy
at the Japanese American National Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein form
Museum (see p80), and check out the part of its permanent collection.
MOCA Geffen Contemporary (see p80). Chinatown
Walt Disney
6 8
MAP W2 • Along Broadway Hill
Concert Hall
north of Cesar Chavez Blvd
MAP V4 • 111 S Grand Ave The Chinese first settled in LA
• 323-850-2000 • www.laphil.com after the Gold Rush, but were
The home of the Los Angeles forced by the construction of Union
Philharmonic Orchestra is a specta­ Station to relocate a few blocks
cular addition to Downtown’s land­ north to an area that is today
scape. Frank Gehry conceived the known as “New Chinatown.” The
dramatic auditorium, rather like the cultural hub of over 200,000
sculptural interpretation of a ship at Chinese Americans, this exotic
sea. The exterior “sails” are clad in district sells everything from
stain less­steel panels, while the pickled ginger to lucky bamboo.
hall itself boasts a curved wooden
ceiling with superb acoustics (see Chinatown
p48 and p64).














076-079_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 78 20/02/2017 15:17

Downtown ❮❮ 79


A DAY IN DOWNTOWN
CHUNG KING ROAD GALLERIES
This quiet, lantern-festooned lane in
western Chinatown is the hotbed of Chinatown
LA’s art scene. Artists’ studios and Philippe the
several galleries have opened in Cathedral of Our Lady DASH BUS B Original
of the Angels
between the traditional Chinese Music Center Olvera
Street
antique and furniture stores in the Walt Disney
area. Follow a browsing session with a Concert Hall Union
quiet drink at the Hop Louie restaurant. Bunker Hill El Pueblo Station
Steps MOCA
Grand Central Market
L.A. Live Sports and
9 Central Bradbury Building
Library
Entertainment District
Millennium
MAP S6 Biltmore Hotel Pershing Square
A 4,000,000-sq-ft (371,600-sq-m) MORNING
development, adjoining the Staples
Center and the Los Angeles Begin your day with the historic
Convention Center, houses LA’s El Pueblo (see p77), which will
premier sports and entertainment take you back to the city’s vibrant
Mexican and Spanish past.
district. Venues include the Microsoft Browse colorful Olvera Street
Theater, with state-of-the-art for authentic crafts and food,
acoustics and seating for 7,200 and then cross Alameda Street
people, and The Novo by Microsoft, a for a close-up of the grand Union
live music venue. At the heart of the Station (see p77).
center is Microsoft Square. Next, go west along Cesar E.
Chavez Avenue, before turning
right on Broadway for a stroll
through exotic Chinatown and
a superb lunch at the Philippe’s
the Original (see p83).
AFTERNOON
Ride the DASH bus “B” from
Broadway to Temple Street,
dominated by the Cathedral
of Our Lady of the Angels.
After admiring Rafael Moneo’s
Modernist masterpiece, head
Grand Central Market south along Grand Avenue, past
Grand Central Market
0 the Music Center (see p64) and
the Walt Disney Concert Hall
to check out the latest exhibits
MAP V5 • 317 S Broadway •
213-624-2378 • Open 9am–6pm daily at the MOCA.
• www.grandcentralsquare.com Stroll down Bunker Hill Steps
Angelenos have perused the produce (see p81), stopping to gaze at
aisles of this exotic and lively market Source Figure, Robert Graham’s
since 1917. Today, visitors stock exquisite sculpture and the
up on everything from fruits and Central Library (see p80). Walk
vegetables to fresh fish and meat, to Pershing Square, lorded over
and spices and herbs to cakes and by the baronial Millennium
Biltmore Hotel (see p81), a nice
bread, all available at bargain prices. place for tea or coffee. Leave in
Many of the eateries here also have time to make it to the Victorian
long traditions, such as Roast-to-Go, Bradbury Building (see p49)
where the Penilla family has served before 5pm. Browse for treasures
tacos and burritos since the 1950s. in the bountiful aisles of the
The architect Frank Lloyd Wright Grand Central Market.
once had an office upstairs.
See map on pp76–7
076-079_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 79 20/02/2017 15:17

80 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Wells Fargo
Fashion District
1 5
History Museum
MAP U6 • Bounded by
MAP U4 • 333 S Grand Ave Broadway, San Pedro St, 7th St, &
• Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri 16th St
A Wild West museum housing an The 56-block district is the heart of
original stagecoach and a gold LA’s clothing industry and heaven on
nugget from the Gold Rush. earth for bargain hunters (see p69).
Central Library
Flower Market
2 6
MAP V6 • 766 Wall St
MAP U5 • 630 W 5th St • 213-
228-7000 • Open 10am–8pm Mon– • 213-627-3696 • Open 8am–noon
Thu, 10am–5:30pm Fri–Sat, 1–5pm Sun Mon & Wed, 6am–11am Tue & Thu,
LA’s main library consists of the 8am–2pm Fri, 6am–2pm Sat • Adm
original 1926 building, a Beaux-Arts • www.originallaflowermarket.com
design by Bertram Goodhue, and This 1913 cut-flower market, the
an art-filled atrium added in 1993. largest in the country, has it all
from roses to orchids.
The Grammy Museum
7
MAP S6 • 800 W Olympic Blvd
• 213-765-6800 • 10:30am–6:30pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–6:30pm Sat & Sun
• www.grammymuseum.org
You can record and perform a song
at this interactive museum dedicated
to the music industry.
Japanese American
8
National Museum
MAP W5 • 100 N Central Ave
• 213-625-0414 • Open 11am–5pm
Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun, noon–8pm Thu
• Adm • www.janm.org
Housed in a Buddhist temple, this
Reading room, Central Library museum chronicles the history of
Japanese Americans.
The Broad
3 MOCA Geffen
MAP V4 • 221 S Grand Ave •
Contemporary
213-232-6200 • 11am–5pm Tue–Wed, 9
11am–8pm Thu–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat, MAP W5 • 152 N Central Ave • 213-
10am–6pm Sun • www.thebroad.org 626-6222 • Open 11am–6pm Wed &
A superb contemporary art collection Fri, 11am–8pm Thu, 11am–5pm Sat &
housed in a striking building. Yayoi Sun • Adm • www.moca.org
Kusama’s dazzling Infinity Mirrored This huge former police garage
Room is especially popular. hosts traveling shows and exhibits.
Downtown Arts District
Jewelry District
4 0
MAP U5 • Hill St just off
MAP U4 • Bounded by 1st &
Pershing Square 7th Sts, Alameda Ave, & the Los
Precious gems, watches, and fine Angeles River
jewels are sold in shops in what As artists have moved into studios
has long been the center of Los here, trendy galleries, shops, and
Angeles’s jewelry industry. restaurants have also opened.

080-081_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 80 23/03/2017 14:13

Downtown ❮❮ 81

Downtown Architecture


Oviatt Building
1
MAP U5 • 617 S Olive St
This 1927 Art Deco gem has French
fixtures and a forecourt deco rated
with Lalique glass. It houses the
popular Cicada restaurant (see p83).
Coca-Cola Bottling Plant
2
MAP E3 • 1334 S Central Ave
• Not open to the public
A Streamline Moderne building,
located in an industrial area, this
resembles an ocean liner, complete
with porthole windows. Two giant
Coke bottles guard the corners. Millennium Biltmore Hotel
Millennium
Westin Bonaventure
3 6
Hotel & Suites
Biltmore Hotel
MAP U4 • 404 S Figueroa St MAP U5 • 506 S Grand Ave
• 213-624-1000 • 213-624-1011
The five mirror-glass cylinders of A range of architectural styles, from
LA’s biggest hotel look like a space Renaissance to Neo-Classical, adorn
ship ready for take-off (see p148). this 1923 Beaux-Arts hotel.
Bunker Hill Steps
Old Bank District
4 7
MAP V5 • On 4th St between
MAP U4
Main & Spring Sts Cascading down from Hope Street
This trio of statuesque buildings, to Fifth Street, these steps have
built between 1904 and 1910, has many attractive features, including
been converted into residential lofts. an amazing sculpture of a female
nude by Robert Graham (see p82).
US Bank Tower
5 Eastern Columbia
MAP U5 • 633 W 5th St
Building
Standing at 1,017 ft (310 m), 8
this building was erected MAP U6 • 849 Broadway
only after developers A bright turquoise terracotta mantle
were forced to pur- covers this former 1930s furniture
chase the air rights and clothing store.
from neighboring
Fine Arts Building
Central Library in 9
order to exceed offi- MAP T5 • 811 W 7th St Lobby
cial height limits. • Open during office hours
Behind the richly detailed façade of
US Bank Tower this 1927 building awaits a galleried
lobby in Spanish Renaissance style.
Broadway Historic
0
Theater District
MAP U6 • Along Broadway between
3rd & 9th Sts
During the silent-film era, Broadway
was the movie district. The movie
palaces are architectural marvels.
See map on pp76–7
080-081_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 81 20/02/2017 15:17

82 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Public Art


Corporate Head
Peace on Earth
1 5
MAP T5 • 725 S Figueroa St
MAP V4 • Music Center
Plaza, 135 N Grand Ave An evocative sculpture (1990)
Created at the height of the by Terry Allen and Philip Levine,
Vietnam War in 1969, Jacques this condemns the greed and
Lipchitz’s large bronze erosion of moral responsibility
Madonna has the dove, a in today’s corporate America.
symbol of peace, on top,
Spine
and lambs, representing 6
humanity, at the base. MAP U4 • Maguire
Gardens, northern side of
Four Arches
2 & 5th Sts
Central Library, Flower,
MAP U4 • 333 S Hope St
Alexander Calder is best Jud Fine’s 1993 installation is
known for his suspended a visual allegory of a book –
mobiles, but this looming the well symbolizes the title
1975 steel work painted in page, the steps the pages, and
glowing fiery orange-red is the pools the plot flow.
a “stabile,” an abstract
Biddy Mason:
stationary sculpture. Peace on 7
Earth A Passage of Time
Wells Fargo Court
3 near 3rd St
MAP V5 • 333 S Spring St,
MAP U4 • Wells Fargo Center,
333 S Grand Ave This memorial by Betye Saar and
The ground floor of this office Sheila de Bretteville commem orates
complex is a treasure trove of public the story of former slave, Biddy
art with nudes by Robert Graham, Mason (1818–91), who established
Joan Miró’s childlike La Caresse the city’s first black church.
d’un Oiseau, and Jean Dubuffet’s
Astronaut Ellison S.
cartoonish Le Dandy. 8
Onizuka Memorial
MAP W5 • Onizuka St, Little Tokyo
A 1/10th scale model of the
Challenger, this 1990 memorial by
Isao Hirai honors the first Japanese-
American astronaut.
Source Figure
9
MAP U4 • Hope St, near 4th St
Overlooking the Bunker Hill Steps
(see p81) stands this bronze African-
American female nude. Designed
by Robert Graham in 1992, she
represents the source of the water
Molecule Man by Jonathan Borofsky cascading down the stairs.
Traveler
Molecule Man
4 0
MAP X4 • Union Station
MAP W4 • 255 E Temple St
This monumental sculpture by Terry Schoonhoven’s 1993 ceramic
Jonathan Borofsky shows four mural depicts California travelers
embracing figures, symbolizing the from the days of the Spanish
commonality between people based explorations, and LA landmarks
on their shared molecular structure. such as Pico House (see p25).
082-083_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 82 20/02/2017 15:17

Downtown ❮❮ 83

Places to Eat


Bäco Mercat
PRICE CATEGORIES 7
Price categories include a three-course MAP V5 • 408 S Main St
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all • 213-687-8808 • $$
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
Chef Josef Centeno masters the
$ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80 flavors of the Mediterranean and
$$$$ over $80
Spain at his trendy diner. Choose the
signature “bäco” flatbread sandwich.
Water Grill
1
MAP U5 • 544 S Grand Ave
• 213-891-0900 • $$$
Fish and seafood fanciers from all
over flock to this clubby shrine,
which uses only impec cably fresh
ingredients. Desserts are superb.
Cicada
2
MAP U5 • 617 S Olive St
• 213-488-9488 • $$$
The sumptuous Art Deco dining
room in the historic Oviatt Building
almost overshadows the food. The
menu features north Italian classics.
Engine Co. No. 28
3
MAP U5 • 644 Figueroa St
• 213-624-6996 • $$
This former firehouse serves top
American comfort food. A favorite Stylish dining room at Bäco Mercat
for business lunches, theatergoers,
Yang Chow
and Lakers fans. 8
MAP W2 • 819 N Broadway,
Nick & Stef’s
4 Chinatown • 213-625-0811 • $
Steakhouse
In this reliable Chinese eatery, a
MAP U4 • 330 S Hope St, Wells Fargo plate of the hallmark “slippery
Center • 213-680-0330 • $$$ shrimp” graces almost every table.
Loosen your belt for the juiciest The moo-shu pork is also a good bet.
steaks ever. Preview your cut in
Noe
the glass-encased aging chamber. 9
MAP X4 • 251 S Olive St
Philippe’s the Original
5 • 213-356-4100 • $$$$
A romantic place for post-theater
MAP X3 • 1001 N Alameda St
• 213-628-3781 • $ dining, Noe offers fresh seafood,
Philippe’s has served its famous meats, and poultry prepared in an
French-dipped sandwiches since American-Japanese fusion style.
1908. Seating is at long communal
Casa La Dona
tables. Limited vegetarian options. 0
MAP U6 • 800 S Main St
Clifton’s Cafeteria
6 • 213-627-7441 • Open daily,
MAP U5 • 648 S Broadway
breakfast only Fri–Sun • $
• 213-627-1673 • $ A salsa bar with truly authentic
LA institution with rustic woodland regional dishes from Mexico, home-
decor and plenty of taxidermy. made tortillas, tamales, and spot-on
Upstairs has themed cocktail bars. service. Try the fresh blue-gill fish.
See map on pp76–7
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84 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Around Downtown


It has been said that LA is not really a city, but a collection of 88
independent towns that overlap. Nowhere is this truer than within
the 5-mile (8-km) radius of Downtown. West of here, Koreatown
is home to the largest Korean population in the US, while east LA
has the largest group of Latinos living outside Latin America. In the
Latino-Byzantine quarter, surrounding St. Sophia Cathedral, Latinos
and Greeks predominate. Northeast is Dodger Stadium,
a world-famous landmark, while south of the center is
Exposition Park with its museums and sports venues.
Heritage Square
1
Museum
MAP E2 • 3800 Homer St, Highland
Park • 323-225-2700 • Open 11:30am–
4:30pm Fri–Sun (Oct–Mar: hours
may vary, call for details) • Adm
• www.heritagesquare.org
Apart from those on Carroll Avenue,
most Victorian homes in LA were
demolished. A few, however, were
moved by helicopter to form the
Heritage Square Museum. Eight
vintage beauties cluster here, with
Hale House, Heritage Square Museum Hale House, the most outstanding.
AREA MAP OF AROUND DOWNTOWN
CYPRESS PARK
Top 10 Sights Silver Lake 2 Los A n g ele s River Southwest 110
see pp84–7 Reservoir Museum Ernest E. Debs
Regional Park
Places to Eat SILVER ISABEL ST
N SAN FERNANDO RD
see p89 LAKE N ALVARADO ST 5
The Best of the Rest Elysian Heritage MONTECITO
HEIGHTS
Park
see p88 110 Square HUNTINGTON DR
101 STADIUM WAY NORTH BROADWAY
Ascot Hills
Wilshire/ BEVERLY BLVD Park
Vermont W 3RD ST Chinatown Lincoln
AVE
W 6TH ST Park VALLEY BLV D
NORMANDIE
Westlake WESTLAKE
NORTH Union
Station 10
L OS ANGELES C OUNT Y
W PICO BLVD 110 S GRAND AVENUE S MAIN ST E CESAR E CHAVEZ AVE
Rosedale S FIGUEROA ST DOWNTOWN
10 Cemetery 101 10
110 Grand S ALAMEDA ST E 4TH ST
10 E 4TH ST
W ADAMS BLVD UNIVERSITY San Pedro BOYLE 60
PARK HEIGHTS WHITTIER BLVD
W JEFFERSON BLVD S MAIN ST Washington 5
EXPOSITION BLVD S SAN PEDRO ST S CENTRAL AVE W WASHINGTON BLVD 0 kilometers 2
W MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD AVE LONG BEACH 0 miles 2
084-087_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 84 23/03/2017 14:13

Around Downtown ❮❮ 85

Around Downtown














Entrance to the San Antonio Winery, the last of its kind in Los Angeles
San Antonio Winery
Angelino Heights
2 4
MAP U1 • Carroll Ave &
MAP E2 • 737 Lamar St,
Kellam Ave, Echo Park Lincoln Heights • 323-223-1401
In the 1880s, this was one of LA’s • Tasting room open 9am–7pm
first suburbs, an elegant neigh bor­ Sun–Thu, 9am–8pm Fri & Sat
hood with stately Victorian mansions • www.sanantoniowinery.com
along Carroll and Kellam avenues. LA’s only surviving winery is tucked
Many surviving buildings have been away in the industrial area north of
lovingly restored. The 1300 block of the Los Angeles River, an area once
Carroll Avenue has the finest blanketed with vineyards. When
structures, including Haskin House founder Santo Cambianica arrived in
at No. 1344 and Foy House at No. 1917, he faced stiff competition from
1325. They are open to the public over 100 wineries. Prohibition put
only during tours run by the LA most out of business, but Santo
Conservancy (see p142). survived making sacramental wine.
Taste the wines and try the restaurant
Natural History Museum
3 – a popular lunch spot (see p89).
MAP D3 • 900
Southwest Museum of
Exposition Blvd, Exposition 5
Park • 213-763-3466 the American Indian
• Open 9:30am–5pm daily MAP E2 • 234 Museum Dr,
• Adm (free for under 5s) Highland Park • 323-221-
• www.nhm.org 2164 • Open 10am–5pm
It’s easy to spend a day Sat (call for details)
exploring this engaging • www.theautry.org
museum. The dinosaurs The oldest museum in
always draw huge crowds, Los Angeles was the
as does the Age of brainchild of Charles
Mammals exhibit with Southwest Museum of Lummis, whose
the Simi Valley mastodon, the American Indian collection of Native
and the 14.5­ft (4­m) long American artifacts
megamouth, the rarest shark in the formed the basis of its holdings.
world. The Gem and Mineral Hall It has one of the nation’s largest
contains a huge gold exhibit and a collections of Native art and artifacts.
walk­through gem vault. Cultural Galleries provide a survey of the
exhibits explain and highlight the traditions of Native cultures from
traditions of Native and Latin California, the Great Plains, the
American civilizations. Children Southwest, and the Pacific
love the hands­on activities in the Northwest. Restoration work is
Discovery Center and the Insect Zoo. ongoing; call ahead for details.




084-087_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 85 20/02/2017 15:17

86 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area


















The impressive altar and religious iconography at St. Sophia Cathedral
St. Sophia Cathedral
6 to California and the western US.
MAP D2 • 1324 S Normandie
The main exhibit traces the journey
Ave, Koreatown • 323-737-2424 from Africa to slavery in the
• Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, American South to final freedom
10am–2pm Sat , 12:30–2pm Sun on the West Coast. Temporary
• www.stsophia.org exhibitions highlight particular
One of LA’s surprises, this central artists, including emerging ones.
church of Southern California’s
California
Greek Orthodox community is an 8
opulent hall of worship. The eye is Science Center
drawn to the icon-studded, golden MAP D2 • 700 State Drive, Exposition
altar of the Virgin Mary, while Jesus, Park • 323-724-3623 • Open
surrounded by saints, looks down 10am–5pm daily • Free (parking $10)
at the congregation from the 90-ft • www.californiasciencecenter.org
(27-m) high dome. Filled with clever and engaging
interactive exhibits, this highly
entertaining science and technology
museum has three themed galleries.
The World of Life exhibit explains the
processes living organisms undergo,
Creative World focuses on the ability
of humans to adapt to their environ-
ment through technology, and the Air
and Space Gallery explores the great
beyond. But it’s the Space Shuttle
Endeavour that steals the show and
attracts the crowds (see p58).
California African American Museum Charles F. Lummis
Home and Garden
California African
7 9
American Museum
MAP E2 • 200 E Ave 43, Highland
MAP D2 • 600 State Dr, Exposition Park • 323-222-0546 • Open
Park • 213-744-7432 10am–3pm Fri–Sun • Donation
• Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, Now the headquarters of the
11am–5pm Sun • Free (parking $10) Historical Society of Southern
• www.caamuseum.org California, this was once the home
This museum celebrates the art, of the eccentric Charles Fletcher
history, and culture of African Lummis (1859–1928), who walked
Americans, especially in relation the entire 3,000 miles (4,830 km)




084-087_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 86 20/02/2017 15:17

Around Downtown ❮❮ 87


EXPLORING EXPOSITION
KOREATOWN PARK IN A DAY
Parts of western Vermont Avenue University of
around Wilshire Boulevard west of Southern California
Downtown would not look out of place
in Seoul. These are the main arteries of
Koreatown, home to the largest Korean Exposition Park
population in the US and a beehive of Natural Rose Mercado
Garden
commercial activity. Learn more about History La Paloma
the Korean community at the Korean Museum California
Cultural Center at 5505 Wilshire Blvd. California IMAX African
American
Theater
Science Center Museum
Los Angeles
from Ohio to LA in 1885. An Memorial Coliseum
outspoken California booster and MORNING
preservationist, Lummis built his
house with his own hands out of Start at Exposition Park from
concrete and found materials, Figueroa Street and make the
including boulders and railroad rails. Natural History Museum (see
p85) the first stop of the day.
The house is also known as El Alisal, Admire its lovely façade, before
Spanish for “sycamore,” due to the delving into the exhibits inside.
giant sycamore by the building. A landmark bronze sculpture of
a Tyrannosaurus rex battling a
Dodger Stadium
0 Triceratops stands to the north
outside. Crossing the street takes
MAP W1 • 1000 Elysian Park
Ave • 323-224-1448 • Tours (on non- you to the University of Southern
California campus (see p88),
game days by appointment only), where you can join a free guided
tickets required • http://dodgers.mlb. tour offered hourly from 10am to
com/la/ballpark 3pm. Have lunch on Exposition
For many, spring wouldn’t be Boulevard or at the Mercado La
the same without baseball. The Paloma (3655 S Grand Ave), a
pilgrimage to Dodger Stadium to Latin-style community center
watch the “Boys in Blue” fight it out with colorful crafts stalls and
is an annual ritual for thousands of casual eating joints.
fans. Hunkered in the bleachers, AFTERNOON
munching on the famous Dodger
Dogs, they watch their team (the Backtrack to Exposition Park
LA Dodgers) in action. The stadium and start the afternoon with a
opened in 1962 and is often called look at the Los Angeles Memorial
one of US’s most beautiful ball parks. Coliseum (3911 S Figueroa St), the
main venue of the 1932 and 1984
It has hosted the World Series, many Olympics. The two huge headless
concerts, and even a papal mass. bronze figures outside the east-
ern entrance were designed by
Dodger Stadium on match day local sculptor Robert Graham.
Just north of this spot is the
California Science Center, with
many interactive exhibits. Grab a
cold drink from the downstairs
cafeteria and head outside to the
fragrant Rose Garden (see p50) to
relax. If you still have the energy
left, do check out the store at
the California African American
Museum. Otherwise, wind down
the day with a 3-D adventure at
the IMAX Theater (see p62) next
to the Science Center.
See map on p84
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88 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Angelus Temple
William Andrews Clark
1 6
Memorial Library
MAP E1 • 1100 Glendale
Blvd, Echo Park • Open only during MAP D2 • 2520 Cimarron St,
special events W Adams district • 323-735-7605
Founded by a popular preacher with • Tours by appointment
a flair for theatrics, this 1923 domed This 1926 building has a rare
building was once the headquarters collection of English books only
of the Foursquare Gospel Church. available to scholars, and an oak-
paneled music room.
The Wiltern
2 El Mercado
MAP D2 • 3790 Wilshire Blvd,
MAP E2 • 3425 E 1st St, E LA
Koreatown 7
A live concert venue, encased by the • 323-268-3451 • Open 10am–8pm
1931 Art Deco Pelissier Building. Mon–Fri, 9am–9pm Sat & Sun
Stop for an authentic meal or browse
Bullocks Wilshire
3 colorful stalls at this Mexican-
Building
American indoor marketplace.
MAP D2 • 3050 Wilshire Blvd,
Self-Help Graphics
Koreatown 8
One of the earliest Art Deco & Arts
structures anywhere in the United MAP E2 • 1300 E First St, E LA • 323-
States, this beautiful building is now 881-6444 • Gallery hours: 9am–5pm
home to the Southwestern University Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat
School of Law. This nonprofit arts center works
with the Latino community on print-
Shrine Auditorium
4 making, workshops, and exhibitions.
MAP D2 • 665 W Jefferson
Mariachi Plaza
Blvd, Exposition Park area 9
This 1926 Moorish-style theater MAP E2 • Corner of Boyle Ave
seats up to 6,700 and was once & 1st St, E LA
the largest in the US. Mariachi musicians in black robes
gather in this small park, waiting to
University of Southern
5 be hired for the night’s engagements.
California (USC)
Brewery Arts Complex
MAP D2 • Bounded by Jefferson, 0
Figueroa, Exposition Blvds & MAP E2 • 2100 N Main St,
Vermont Ave, Exposition Park area Lincoln Heights • 323-441-9593
• 213-740-2311 • www.usc.edu • Gallery open Fri–Sun (by
Built in 1880, the oldest private appointment only)
university in Western US counts Art walks are organized twice yearly
George Lucas among its alumni. at this massive artists’ colony.
University of
Southern California








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Around Downtown ❮❮ 89

Places to Eat


Maddalena Restaurant
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP E2 • 737 Lamar St, Lincoln
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all
Heights • 323-223-1401 • Lunch and Price categories include a three-course
early dinner (closes 7pm Sun–Thu & unavoidable extra charges including tax.
8pm Sat) • Tours daily • $$ $ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
This slice of Italy, in what was once $$$$ over $80
the cellars of the San Antonio Winery
Guelaguetza
(see p85), is a popular lunch spot. 6
MAP D2 • 3014 W Olympic
Blvd, Koreatown • 213-427-0601 • $
This lively restaurant serving food
from southern Mexico is famous for
its moles – sauces made from spices,
nuts, chilies, and chocolate.
HMS Bounty
7
MAP D2 • 3357 Wilshire Blvd
• 213-385-7275 • $$
Popular historic local hangout with
retro chic. Steaks, pub food, and
Maddalena Restaurant cheap drinks are served up in
nautical surroundings. Film shoots
Langer’s Delicatessen
2 take place here once in a while.
MAP E2 • 704 S Alvarado St
Taylor’s Steakhouse
• 213-483-8050 • Closed Sun • $ 8
Award-winning Jewish deli serving MAP D2 • 3361 W 8th St,
LA’s best pastrami sandwich Koreatown • 213-382-8449 • $$
Send your cholesterol count through
El Tepeyac Café
3 the roof at this venerable throwback
MAP E2 • 812 N Evergreen
to the 1950s, with faux leather
Ave, E LA • 323-267- booths and huge yummy
8668 • No credit steaks almost the size
cards • $ of baseball mitts.
Long lines form
El Cholo
outside LA’s 9
burrito “head- MAP D2
quarters” for the El Tepeyac Café • 1121 S Western
“Hollenbeck,” stuffed with Ave, Koreatown • 323-734-
guacamole and pork. 2773 • $
This festive Mexican eatery has been
Papa Cristo’s Taverna
4 full of diners hungry for fajitas and
burritos since 1923. Their margaritas
MAP D2 • 2771 W Pico Blvd,
Koreatown • 323-737-2970 • Closed pack a wicked punch.
Mon • $
Taix French Country
Drop into this friendly, busy eatery 0
next door to St. Sophia (see p86) for Cuisine
fat portions of great Greek food. MAP D2 • 1911 Sunset Blvd, Echo
Park • 213-484-1265 • $$
Soot Bull Jeep
5 This family-owned 1927 eatery
serves good-value portions of French
MAP D2 • 3136 8th St,
Koreatown • 213-387-3865 • $ country classics, which include such
Grill your own deliciously marinated dishes as delicious roast chicken
meat at this authentic Korean spot. with bordelaise sauce. Great soups.
See map on p84
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90 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Pasadena


Pasadena may be considered part of LA, but it is, in fact, distinctly
apart. As the city’s first suburb, it attracted a large share of the
rich, who saw to it that a European flair enhanced the town. Fine
mansions, such as the Craftsman-era Gamble House, occupy
grounds on leafy streets. Old Town Pasadena, the historic core, is
now home to a vibrant street of restaurants and shops. Pasadena
is in the limelight every year on January 1 with its Tournament of
Roses, a parade, and football game. The area’s other treasures
include the Rose Bowl and the fabled Huntington Gardens.
















The Rose Bowl, home to the famous annual Tournament of the Roses
AREA MAP OF PASADENA
Pasadena
Pasadena LINCOLN
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD 210 FOOTHILL FWY EA ST CO RS O N ST REE T N EL MOLINO AVENUE N EL MOLINO AVENUE
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
E AS T MA PLE S T R EE T
Brookside
Brookside AVE AVE 210 210 E AS T MA PLE S T R EE T Lake Lake
LINCOLN
Park Park
FOOTHILL FREEWAY
FOOTHILL FREEWAY
210
EA ST CO RS O N ST REE T
W CORSON ST
W CORSON ST N FAIR OAKS AVE N FAIR OAKS AVE N RAYMOND AVE Pasadena E WA L N U T S T
FOOTHILL FWY
W WALNUT ST N L A K E A V E N U E
W WALNUT ST
EAST WALNUT STREET
N L O S R O B L E
Pasadena
Memorial
Memorial
Park
N MARENGO AVE
Park
N MARENGO AVE
V E N T U R A F R E E WAY
V E N T U R A F R E E WAY E A S T U N I O N S T E A S T U N I O N S T
Memorial
Memorial
N RAYMOND AVE
Park
Park
N L O S R O B L E S AV E
EAST WALNUT STREET S AV E
E WA L N U T S T K E A V
W HOLLY ST
W HOLLY ST
134 134 WEST COLORADO BLVD E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
E A S T U N I O N S T E A S T U N I O N S T E N U E
NORTH EUCLID AVE
NORTH EUCLID AVE
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
WEST COLORADO BLVD
WEST GREEN S S EAST GREEN STREE T
EAST GREEN STREE T
STREET S FA S FA E MOUNTAIN ST 0 km 0 km 1 1
STREET
210 210 E MOUNTAIN ST
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
0 miles 1 1
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DE LACEY AVE
DE LACEY AVE
Area of main map
VALLEY ST CORDOVA ST Area of main map
LON G
W. DRAYTON ST I R
WEST GREEN T JOHN AVE
S RAYMOND
S RAYMOND
S L O S R O
PASADENA AVE
PASADENA AVE
Park
PEACH Central S L O S R O B L E S AV E N U E 210 210
PLACE PLACE Del Mar S MARENGO AVENUE S MARENGO AVENUE EAST COLORADO BOULEVARD
EAST COLORADO BOULEVARD
Del Mar
W DEL MAR BLVD SOUTH EL MOLINO AVENUE SOUTH EL MOLINO AVENUE 134 134
LON G B EAC H
E DEL MAR BOULEVARD
E DEL MAR BOULEVARD
S G R A N D AV E N U E
S G R A N D AV E N U E
S ORANGE GROVE BLVD
S ORANGE GROVE BLVD
WAVERLY DR WAVERLY DR PEACH O A K S AV E CORDOVA ST B L E S AV E N U E S FAIR OAKS AVE S FAIR OAKS AVE S ARROYO PKWY S ARROYO
WAVERLY DR
WAVERLY DR
EAST CALIFORNIA BOULEVARD
MAY ALLEY AVE MAGNOLIA AVE MAGNOLIA S ORANGE GROVE BLVD S ORANGE GROVE BLVD EAST CALIFORNIA BOULEVARD
MAY ALLEY
W. DRAYTON ST I R Park AVENUE
Central AVENUE
BELLE VUE DR
0 meters 400 400 BELLE VUE DR SOUTH EUCLID AVE SOUTH EUCLID AVE SOUTH OAKLAND AVE SOUTH OAKLAND AVE SOUTH MADISON AVE SOUTH MADISON AVE SOUTH OAK KNOLL AVE SOUTH OAK KNOLL AVE
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S ST JOHN AVE B EAC H FR EE WAY
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North East LA
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Pasadena ❮❮ 91

The Huntington
1
This treasure trove of culture
is the legacy of railroad tycoon Henry
E. Huntington. He made his fortune
in real estate and owned LA’s first
mass transit system (see pp28–31).
Norton Simon Museum
2
MAP E1 • 411 W Colorado Blvd
• 626-449-6840 • Open 11am–8pm
Fri & Sat, noon–5pm Sun, Mon, Wed
& Thu • Adm (free for under 19s and
students with ID, also on 1st Fri of
month) • www.nortonsimon.org
This must-see for art lovers owes its
existence to Norton Simon, a hugely
successful entrepreneur, who col-
lected hundreds of masterpieces
(see p94) from the Renaissance to
the 20th century, and sculpture from
India and Southeast Asia. Old
Masters, such as Rembrandt and Pacific Asia Museum
Goya, and the Impressionists,
Pacific Asia Museum
especially Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, 3
and Monet, are well represented. MAP E1 • 46 N Los Robles
Frank Gehry’s remodel improved Ave • 626-449-2742 • Temporarily
the lighting of the exhibit space. closed for seismic refitting;
Sculptures, including Rodin’s The reopening in May 2017
Thinker, dot the gardens, inspired • www.pacificasiamuseum.org
by Monet’s at Giverny in France. Grace Nicholson, infatuated with all
things Asian, had her home designed
AREA MAP OF PASADENA to look like a Chinese imperial
palace. It now makes a fitting setting
Pasadena LINCOLN Top 10 Sights for this museum’s 14,000 artifacts
Pasadena
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD 210 FOOTHILL FWY EA ST CO RS O N ST REE T N EL MOLINO AVENUE N EL MOLINO AVENUE 210 210 N
E AS T MA PLE S T R EE T
Brookside AVE AVE 210 210 E AS T MA PLE S T R EE T Lake Lake see pp91–3 from Asia and the Pacific Islands.
Brookside
LINCOLN
Park Park Exhibits include masks from New
FOOTHILL FREEWAY
FOOTHILL FREEWAY
210
see p97
EA ST CO RS O N ST REE T
W CORSON ST N FAIR OAKS AVE N FAIR OAKS AVE N RAYMOND AVE Pasadena E WA L N U T S T Old Pasadena Rose Bowl
W CORSON ST
woven costumes from Pakistan.
FOOTHILL FWY
W WALNUT ST N L A K E A V E N U E Shopping in masters Hokusai and Hiroshige, and
W WALNUT ST
EAST WALNUT STREET
Pasadena
N L O S R O B L E
Memorial
Memorial
see p96
N MARENGO AVE
Park
Park
N MARENGO AVE
V E N T U R A F R E E WAY
V E N T U R A F R E E WAY E A S T U N I O N S T E A S T U N I O N S T Greene and Greene 4
Memorial
Memorial
N RAYMOND AVE
Park
Park
N L O S R O B L E S AV E
MAP E1 • 1001 Rose
EAST WALNUT STREET S AV E
E WA L N U T S T K E A V
Craftsman Houses
W HOLLY ST
W HOLLY ST
134 134 E A S T U N I O N S T E A S T U N I O N S T E N U E see p95 Bowl Dr • 626-577-3101
• www.rosebowlstadium.com
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
NORTH EUCLID AVE
NORTH EUCLID AVE
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
E A S T C O L O R A D O B O U L E VA R D
WEST COLORADO BLVD
WEST COLORADO BLVD
Pasadena’s most famous landmark,
WEST GREEN EAST GREEN STREE T the Rose Bowl, draws worldwide
EAST GREEN STREE T
S S
STREET S FA S FA E MOUNTAIN ST 0 km 0 km 1 1
STREET
210 210 E MOUNTAIN ST attention every New Year’s Day
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
N ORANGE GROVE BLVD
0 miles
0 miles 1 1 when two top-ranking college
DE LACEY AVE
DE LACEY AVE
LON G
Area of main map
VALLEY ST CORDOVA ST Area of main map football teams battle it out for the
WEST GREEN T JOHN AVE
W. DRAYTON ST I R
S RAYMOND
S RAYMOND
PASADENA AVE
PASADENA AVE
S L O S R O
Park
PEACH Central S L O S R O B L E S AV E N U E 210 210
PLACE PLACE Del Mar S MARENGO AVENUE S MARENGO AVENUE EAST COLORADO BOULEVARD Rose Bowl Game Trophy. College
EAST COLORADO BOULEVARD
Del Mar
W DEL MAR BLVD SOUTH EL MOLINO AVENUE SOUTH EL MOLINO AVENUE 134 134
LON G B EAC H
E DEL MAR BOULEVARD football first became part of the
E DEL MAR BOULEVARD
S G R A N D AV E N U E
S G R A N D AV E N U E
S ORANGE GROVE BLVD
S ORANGE GROVE BLVD
WAVERLY DR WAVERLY DR PEACH O A K S AV E CORDOVA ST B L E S AV E N U E S FAIR OAKS AVE S FAIR OAKS AVE S ARROYO PKWY S ARROYO PKWY Tournamen
WAVERLY DR
WAVERLY DR
MAY ALLEY AVE MAGNOLIA AVE MAGNOLIA S ORANGE GROVE BLVD S ORANGE GROVE BLVD EAST CALIFORNIA BOULEVARD Michigan beat Stanford 49-0. The
EAST CALIFORNIA BOULEVARD
MAY ALLEY
W. DRAYTON ST I R Park AVENUE
Central AVENUE
BELLE VUE DR
0 meters 400 400 BELLE VUE DR SOUTH EUCLID AVE SOUTH EUCLID AVE SOUTH OAKLAND AVE SOUTH OAKLAND AVE SOUTH MADISON AVE SOUTH MADISON AVE SOUTH OAK KNOLL AVE SOUTH OAK KNOLL AVE original horseshoe-shaped
0 meters
W DEL MAR BLVD FR EE WAY
S ST JOHN AVE B EAC H FR EE WAY
PALME T TO DR structure was enlarged to its
PALME T TO DR
S A R R O Y O P A R K W A Y
S A R R O Y O P A R K W A Y
North East LA
VALLEY ST O A K S AV E
0 yards 400 400 North East LA
0 yards
current capacity of 90,000.
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92 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Wrigley Mansion
5 DOO DAH PARADE
and Gardens
MAP E1 • 391 S Orange Grove Blvd
• 602-955-4079 • Tours: 10am,
noon, 1pm & 3pm Wed–Sat, 2pm
Sun ($15 per person) • www.
wrigleymansionclub.com
William Wrigley Jr., of Wrigley’s
chewing gum, certainly knew how
to live. His residence in Pasadena
is an 18,500-sq-ft (1,720-sq-m)
Renaissance-style mansion (see
p50). It houses the Tourn ament of This over-the-top celebration of
Roses Association, which organizes wackiness, held every June, began
the annual Rose Bowl Game. in 1978 as an irreverent spoof of the
wholesome Rose Parade. Entrants
Memorabilia includes Rose Queen vary each year, but groups such as the
crowns, trophies, and photographs. Synchronized Precision Briefcase Drill
Team and the West Hollywood
Transvestite Cheerleaders always
generate cheers from the 40,000-
strong crowd on Colorado Boulevard.
Arts structures – the Main Library,
the Civic Auditorium, and the City
Hall. Architect Myron Hunt designed
the public library.
California Institute of
7
Technology (CalTech)
MAP E2 • 1200 E California Blvd
Wrigley Mansion and Gardens • 626-395-6811 • Campus open
anytime • Free guided tours: 10am
Pasadena Civic Center
6 Mon–Fri (no tours during the winter
break & on rainy days)
MAP E1 • City Hall: 100 N
Garfield Ave, 626-744-4000 • Civic • www.caltech.edu
Auditorium: 300 E Green St, 626-449- One of the world’s leading scientific
7360 • Library: 285 E Walnut St, 626- research centers and a pioneer in
744-4052 molecular biology, CalTech counts
This grand complex was inspired 29 Nobel Prize winners among
by the early 20th-century City its alumni and faculty, including
Beautiful movement. It consists biologist and current president,
of three European-style Beaux- David Baltimore. The institute
evolved from an arts and crafts
City Hall, school founded in 1891 by the
Pasadena Civic Center famous Amos G.
















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Pasadena ❮❮ 93


Throop, changing its focus to science EXPLORING HISTORIC PASADENA
after astronomer George E. Hale
became a board member in 1907. Arroyo Gamble Marston’s
Terrace House Main
Old Town Pasadena
8 Avenue Café Library
Santorini
Grand
MAP E2 • Along Colorado Blvd
between Marengo Ave & Pasadena Norton Old Town City Hall
Ave • Castle Green, 50 E Green St Simon Pasadena
Pasadena’s historic business district, Museum
once a decaying part of town, has
now been beautifully restored. Today,
its handsome brick buildings are The Raymond
packed with boutiques, restaurants,
and bookstores. A short detour will
take you to the imposing 1898 Castle
Green, once Old Pasadena’s most MORNING
luxurious resort hotel. A classic way to start the day in
Pasadena is with an energizing
Colorado Street Bridge
9 breakfast at Marston’s (see p97).
After your fill of pancakes, stroll
MAP E1 • Court • 125 S Grand
Ave • Tours by appointment only east a couple of blocks on Walnut
• 626-229-7250 Street and have a look at the
The graceful arches of this restored beautiful Beaux-Arts Main
Library and the majestic City
1913 bridge straddle the Arroyo Seco Hall a little to the south. Continue
(Spanish for “dry brook”), a ravine walking farther south to Colorado
that starts in the San Gabriel Boulevard, then head west to Old
Mountains. The 1903 Vista del Town Pasadena, the city’s original
Arroyo Hotel over looking the Downtown, a popular shopping
bridge is home to the Ninth and dining district. Check out the
Circuit Court of Appeals. well-restored historic façades
while browsing the stores, then
pause briefly for a snack at Café
Santorini (see p97).
AFTERNOON
In the afternoon, either drive
or walk west along Colorado
Boulevard, then turn right on
Orange Grove Boulevard to catch
the 1pm or 2pm tour of the
Gamble House (see p95), the
Colorado Street Bridge Craftsman-era magnum opus by
Charles and Henry Greene. Fans
Pasadena Museum
0 of this architectural style could
check out several more resi-
of California Art
MAP E1 • 490 E Union St • 626-568- dences designed by the brothers
along nearby Arroyo Terrace and
3665 • Open noon–5pm Wed–Sun, Grand Avenue. Alternatively,
5–8pm 3rd Thu of month • Adm (free make your way back to Colorado
for under 12s, also on 1st Fri of Boulevard for a visit to the first-
month) • www.pmcaonline.org rate Norton Simon Museum (see
Art collectors Robert and Arlene p91). The gorgeous gardens are
Oltman founded this museum, the a nice place for some respite and
refreshments. A perfect finale to
only one in the state solely devoted to your day is to treat yourself to a
the art and architecture of California, grand dinner at The Raymond
in 2002. Watercolors, photographs, (see p97), one of the city’s oldest
and the works of historical as well as and most popular restaurants.
living artists are showcased here.
See map on pp90–91
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94 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Artworks at the
Norton Simon Museum


Madonna and Child
1
with Book
Renaissance artist Raphael (1483–
1520) was only 19 years old when he
painted this work. It perfectly exem­
plifies his geometrically balanced
compositions and his ability to
imbue his figures with spirituality
and great tenderness.
Self-Portrait
2
No artist has left behind such
a thorough record of his own like­
ness as Rembrandt (1606–69). The
elegant garb, dapper beret, and gold
chain in this portrait emphasize his
social status as a sought­after artist. Portrait of a Peasant by Van Gogh
Portrait of a Peasant
Still Life with Lemons,
3 7
Oranges, and a Rose
Vincent Van Gogh (1853–90)
In this still life, Francisco de painted Patience Escalier, a gardener
Zurbarán (1598–1664) applies the and shepherd, against a night­blue
bright colors and minute detail background to create “a mysterious
usually reserved for his depictions effect, like a star in the depths of
of saints and clergy. an azure sky.”
Exotic Landscape
The Triumph of
4 8
Virtue and Nobility
Henri Rousseau (1844–1910) is
Over Ignorance renowned for his poetic Naïve paint­
Rococo master Giovanni Battista ings that depict lushly landscaped
Tiepolo (1696–1770) is known for dream worlds. He created this work
his exuberant ceiling frescoes. This shortly before his death.
canvas shows off his bold compo­
Woman with
sitions and use of color. 9
a Book
Artist’s Garden
5 A highlight of the museum’s
at Vétheuil
extensive Picasso (1881–1973)
Claude Monet (1840–1926) holdings, this graceful painting
looked out from his house on shows the artist’s mistress,
the Seine at the sunny, flower­ Marie­Therèse Walter, in an
filled garden of this painting. introspective mood that
contrasts sharply with
Little Dancer
6 the melodramatic colors.
Aged Fourteen
Shiva and Parvati
Edgar Degas (1834–1917) was 0
fascinated with dancers, and This pair of 13th­century
this exquisite sculpture is one Indian bronze sculpture casts
of his finest. The figure is depict the Hindu god Shiva,
partly painted, dressed part of the holy Trinity of
in a tulle skirt, and has Little Dancer Aged gods, accompanied by his
been given real hair. Fourteen by Degas wife Parvati.
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Pasadena ❮❮ 95

Craftsman Houses by
Greene and Greene


White Sisters House
Van Rossem-Neill House
1 6
(1903)
(1903)
MAP E1 • 400 Arroyo Terrace MAP E1 • 370 Arroyo Terrace
Hemmed in by an unusual wall made This house has lost much of
of warped clinker bricks, this pretty its Craftsman look due to the
house has a stained-glass front door. replacement of the shingle
exterior with painted stucco.
Cole House (1906)
2 Charles Sumner Greene
MAP E1
House (1901–16)
• 2 Westmoreland Place 7
This large home, owned by a church, MAP E1 • 368 Arroyo Terrace
marks the first time the Greenes Charles experimented with many
added a porte-cochère (a porch-like Craftsman ideas while building
roof) above the driveway. his own home. The front room,
buttressed by boulders and bricks,
Ranney House (1907)
3 was a later addition.
MAP E1 • 440 Arroyo Terrace
Duncan-Irwin House
Mary Ranney was a drafts person at 8
the brothers’ firm and contributed (1902)
many of the design ideas for this MAP E1 • 240 N Grand Ave
shingled corner mansion. This large, beautiful home, originally
a single-story bungalow, pays
Hawks House (1906)
4 homage to Japanese design
MAP E1 • 408 Arroyo Terrace
with its slightly upturned roofs.
This home is distinguished by a very
James Culbertson
wide covered porch, which keeps out 9
both heat and light, giving the house House (1902–15)
a rather sombre appearance. MAP E1 • 235 N Grand Ave
The stained-glass entrance door, the
Gamble House (1908)
5 clinker brick wall, and the pergola
are the only original elements of this
MAP E1 • 4 Westmoreland
Place • 626-793-3334 • Tours noon– extensively remodeled home.
3pm Thu–Sun • Adm (free for under
Halsted House (1905)
12s) • www.gamblehouse.org 0
This handcrafted masterpiece (see MAP E1 • 90 N Grand Ave
p49) boasts rich wood, leaded glass Originally one of the brothers’
windows, and a stained-glass door. smallest designs, this bungalow
sports a deep overhang of eaves
The Gamble House sheltering the main entrance.


See map on p90–91





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96 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Shopping in Old Pasadena


Urban Outfitters
Sur La Table
1 6
MAP E1 • 139 W Colorado Blvd
MAP E1 • 161 W Colorado Blvd
• 626-744-9987 • 626-449-1818
Cooking aficionados love browsing Hip, urban clothing, vintage outfits,
through this vast assortment of well-known brands, shoes, gifts,
quality kitchenware, from pots and housewares all under one roof.
and pans to hard-to-find utensils.
J. Crew
7
MAP E1 • 3 W Colorado Blvd
• 626-568-2739
The retail store of this famous
catalog line has the same stylish
clothing and accessories for men
and women at reasonable prices.
Lula Mae
8
MAP E1 • 100 N Fair Oaks Ave
• 626-304-9996
Quirky gifts, stationery, cards,
jewelry, and soaps – many of which
The Distant Lands bookstore are handmade by local artists.
Create your own in their do-it-
Distant Lands Travel
2 yourself workshops.
Bookstore & Outfitters
Apple Store
MAP E1 • 20 S Raymond Ave 9
• 626-449-3220 MAP E1 • 54 W Colorado Blvd
A friendly spot packed with travel • 626-577-2685
books and accessories. There is also Everything a Mac enthusiast could
a travel agency for tickets and tours. want and more. This one-stop shop
stocks the latest in Apple technology
Restoration Hardware
3 and has know ledgeable staff.
MAP E1 • 127 W Colorado Blvd
Gold Bug
• 626-795-7234 0
This retro emporium specializes in MAP E1 • 22 E Union St
classic furniture and period hard- • 626-744-9963
ware, but also has a fun selection This unusual boutique stocks a
of trendy home accessories. huge assortment of organic jewelry,
artworks, home-decor pieces, and
Lather
4 nature-based oddities.
MAP E1 • 17 E Colorado Blvd
• 626-396-9636 Unique artworks at Gold Bug
This “modern apothecary” uses only
natural ingredients for its skincare
products and has an assortment of
olive oil soap sold by weight.
Vroman’s Bookstore
5
MAP E1 • 695 E Colorado Blvd
• 626-449-5320
Vroman’s has been going strong
since 1894, with knowledgeable and
helpful staff, author signings, book
readings, and an in-house café.

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Pasadena ❮❮ 97

Places to Eat


PRICE CATEGORIES
Price categories include a three-course
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
$$$$ over $80
Saladang Garden
1
MAP E2 • 383 S Fair Oaks Ave
• 626-793-5200 • $$
Complex flavors and a lovely Post-
Modern patio make this trendy Thai
eatery a Pasadena favorite.
Union Restaurant
2
MAP E1 • 37 E Union St
• 626-795-5841 • $$ La Grande Orange Cafe dining area
Northern Italy meets California
at this intimate neigh borhood standard American and Californian-
restaurant. The small plates – Mexican menu with an upscale twist.
designed for sharing – are made The charming outdoor patio seating
from locally sourced ingredients. area is the perfect spot for brunch.
Marston’s
Bistro 45
3 7
MAP E1 • 45 S Mentor Ave
MAP E1 • 151 E Walnut St
• 626-796-2459 • Closed Mon • $ • 626-795-2478 • Veg: Limited
Start the day with blueberry • Closed Mon • $$$
pancakes, golden French toast, or This classy place in an Art Deco
other breakfast favorites at this building turns out excellent French
popular cottage hangout. fare paired with one of the best
wine lists in town.
The Raymond
4 Café Santorini
MAP E2 • 1250 S Fair Oaks Ave
at Columbia St • 626-441-3136 8
MAP E1 • 64 W Union St
• Veg: Limited • Closed Mon • $$$ • 626-564-4200 • No dis. access • $$
One of Pasadena’s finest restaurants, The tables on the terrace are the
this Craftsman-style cottage has a most coveted on balmy summer
menu of American classics. evenings. The Greek and Italian
menu has lots of fun appetizers.
Parkway Grill
5 Sushi Roku
MAP E1 • 510 S Arroyo
MAP E1 • 33 Miller Alley
Parkway • 626-795-1001 • $$$ 9
Only the freshest organic ingredients • 626-683-3000 • $$$
are used to perfect Parkway Grill’s Classic sushi and creative new takes
inspired Californian cuisine. on Asian food keep this attractively
designed place busy.
La Grande Orange Cafe
6 Zankou Chicken
MAP E1 • 260 S Raymond Ave
MAP E1 • 1296 E Colorado Blvd
• 626-356-4444 • $$ 0
Housed in the restored Del Mar train • 626-405-1502 • $
station (the Gold Line stops right Armenian eatery specializing in tarna
outside), this family-friendly (chicken with hummus, salad, and
restaurant offers a well-prepared, garlic sauce), and shawarma kebabs.
See map on pp90–91
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98 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Hollywood


Hollywood is at once a town, an industry, and an
illusion, and you’ll experience all of these along
the famed Hollywood Boulevard. Its history
encompasses the birth of the movies, the Golden
Age of film, and a crushing decline as the studios
moved elsewhere. Hollywood has since seen a
renaissance along the boulevard – the Hollywood
& Highland complex is a major development,
and many of the grand movie palaces once again
host film openings. At its core, Hollywood is a
museum – the huge sign in the hills, the Walk
of Fame, the bars that hosted greats such as
Ernest Hemingway – this is still the place to
The Hollywood
Walk of Fame rekindle childhood dreams about the “stars.”
AREA MAP OF HOLLYWOOD
Hollywood
Around 0 km 5
101
Hollywood
0 miles 5
Hollywood
101 Reservoir Griffith
L O S TILOS RD Area of main map Park LOS FELIZ BLVD
NO R TH H I G HL AN D AVEN UE FRANKLIN AVENUE SANTA MONICA N WESTERN AVENUE BOULEVARD
101
HOL LY WO O D F R EEWAY
OUT POST DR
FITCH D R IV E HILLCREST ROAD SUNSET BLVD
Vermont/
FRAN KLI N AVEN UE MELROSE AVE Santa Monica
HOLLYWOOD BLVD H OL LY WOO D B OUL E VA RD 101
Hollywood/ Hollywood/
Highland Vine
HAWTHORN AVE
S E L M A AV E N U E I VA R AV E N U E W EST S UN SE T BLVD
N LA B RE A AV E
W E ST SUN SE T B OU LE VARD V I N E S T REE T N OR T H B R O NS ON AV

DE LONGPRE AVENUE DE LONGPRE AVENUE
F O U N TA I N AV E N U E F O U N TA I N AV E N U E EN UE
L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E N CA H UEN G A B O L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E
N F O R M O S A AV E
N LA BREA AVENUE
N HIGHLAND AVENUE
S ANTA MON IC A B OU LE VA RD
500 yards
Top 10 Sights R O M A I N E S T R E E T Hollywood
Forever
see pp99–101 U L E VARD V I NE S T RE E T Cemetery
Places to Eat W I L L O U G H B Y AV E N U E N E L C E N T R O AV E N U E
see p103
SEWARD STREET SEWARD STREET
N O R TH GO WE R S TR E E T N GOW E R S TR EE T
Bars and Clubs 0 meters 500 WA R I N G A V E
see p102
0 yards 500 ME LR O SE AV ENU E


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