(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Los Angeles

Hollywood ❮❮ 99

Hollywood Sign
1 began making movies with the
Paramount logo in 1916. The studio
MAP D2
From the very beginning, the shiny has always turned out classics and,
white Hollywood Sign atop Mount in 1929 its feature Wings took home
Lee was meant to attract attention, the first ever Best Picture Oscar. Its
originally for the real estate devel­ most successful movies include
oper and publisher Harry Chandler. Psycho, The Godfather, Forrest Gump,
Built in 1923 at a cost of $21,000, the and Titanic. Two­hour tours of the
sign was once illuminated by 4,000 studio run Monday to Friday.
bulbs and had its own caretaker.
Each letter is 50­ft (15­m) tall and is
made of sheet metal. In 1932, unem­
ployed actress Peggy Entwistle
immortalized herself by leaping to
her death off the H. It’s illegal to hike
to the sign, but the top of Beachwood
Drive gets you fairly close.
Hollywood Heritage
2
Museum
MAP P1 • 2100 N Highland Ave
• 323-874-2276 • Open noon–4pm
Hollywood Sat & Sun • Adm
Around 0 km 5 This museum is housed in the barn
101
Hollywood
0 miles 5 where Jesse Lasky and Cecil B. Paramount Studios entrance
Hollywood DeMille set up Hollywood’s first major
101 Reservoir Griffith
Hollywood Boulevard
L O S TILOS RD Area of main map 101 Park LOS FELIZ BLVD film studio in 1913. It was originally 4
located at Selma Avenue and Vine
MAP P2
NO R TH H I G HL AN D AVEN UE FRANKLIN AVENUE SANTA MONICA N WESTERN AVENUE BOULEVARD studio, photographs, props, and War II heyday, has been revitalized
Street and DeMille shot the first full­
Hollywood’s main artery (see pp12–
HOL LY WO O D F R EEWAY
OUT POST DR
FITCH D R IV E HILLCREST ROAD SUNSET BLVD length feature The Squaw Man here in 13), one of the district’s most glam­
1913–14. Exhibits include a re­created orous streets during its pre­World
Vermont/
FRAN KLI N AVEN UE MELROSE AVE Santa Monica memora bilia from the silent movie era. in recent years. The focus of this
rejuvenation is the Hollywood &
Paramount Studios
Highland complex, but old favorites
MAP R4 • 5555 Melrose Ave
HOLLYWOOD BLVD H OL LY WOO D B OUL E VA RD 101 3 such as TCL Chinese Theatre (see
Hollywood/ Hollywood/ • 323-956-1777 (reservations
Highland Vine p63) and the Walk of Fame have
HAWTHORN AVE required) • Adm also received a fresh sheen.
S E L M A AV E N U E I VA R AV E N U E W EST S UN SE T B LVD
The only major movie studio still
N LA B RE A AVE
W E ST SUN SE T B OU LE VARD V I N E S T REE T N OR T H B R O NS ON AV located in Hollywood, Paramount Hollywood Boulevard at dusk

DE LONGPRE AVENUE DE LONGPRE AVENUE
F O U N TA I N AV E N U E F O U N TA I N AV E N U E EN UE
L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E N CA H UEN G A B O L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E
N F O R M O S A AV E
N LA BREA AVENUE
N HIGHLAND AVENUE
S ANTA MON IC A B OU LE VA RD
500 yards
R O M A I N E S T R E E T Hollywood
Forever
Cemetery
W I L L O U G H B Y AV E N U E N E L C E N T R O AV E N U E
U L E VARD
V I NE S T RE E T
SEWARD STREET SEWARD STREET
N O R TH GO WE R S TR E E T N GOW E R S TR EE T
WA R I N G A V E
0 meters 500
0 yards 500 ME LR O SE AV ENU E
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100 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area


















Mausoleum of William Andrews Clark Jr. at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery
Hollywood Forever
5 from Sinatra to Pavarotti – have
Cemetery
performed here since 1922. In 1924,
MAP R3 • 6000 Santa Monica Blvd Frank Lloyd Wright designed the first
• 323-469-1181 • Open seasonal concert shell, improving acoustics.
hours • www.hollywoodforever.com
Los Feliz and Silver Lake
Founded in 1899, this cemetery is 7
where the famous are buried. The MAP D2 • Ennis House, 2655
list of those interred here includes Glendower Ave, closed to the public
Rudolph Valentino, Jane Mansfield, • Lovell House, 4616 Dundee Dr,
and Cecil B. DeMille. The grandest closed to the public • Take Red Line
memorial belongs to Douglas to Loz Feliz (Vermont Station)
Fairbanks Sr. who, since 2000, has The twin neighborhoods of Los Feliz
shared his marble tomb with his and Silver Lake, with their bohemian-
son, Douglas Jr. A map is available chic dining, shop ping, and nightlife,
from the nearby flower shop. constitute one of Los Angeles’s
oldest movie colonies. The hills are
studded with architectural Modernist
masterpieces such as Lloyd Wright’s
1924 Ennis House and the Lovell
House built by Richard Neutra.
HOLLYWOOD SIGN
Over time the Hollywood Sign lost
not only its last four letters (it was
originally “Hollywoodland”) but also its
luster, along with the rest of Hollywood.
Concert at the Hollywood Bowl A “save-the-sign” campaign in 1978
received the help of celebrities such as
Hollywood Bowl
6 Hugh Hefner, who held a fundraiser,
and Alice Cooper, who bought the
MAP P1 • 2301 N Highland Ave
• 323-850-2000 • Concerts Tue–Sun second O in honor of Groucho Marx.
late Jun–mid-Sep (tickets required)
• www.hollywoodbowl.com
A night at the world’s largest natural
amphitheater is as much part of
Los Angeles summer tradition as
backyard barbecues and fun at the
beach. The world’s finest artists –





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Hollywood ❮❮ 101

Cinerama Dome
8 A DAY WITH THE STARS
MAP Q3 • 323- 464-4226
• www.arclightcinemas.com Yamashiro
A Hollywood landmark, this white Restaurant
dome of interlocked triangles is LA’s
most unusual movie theater. The TCL Chinese Theatre Hollywood
concrete geodesic dome was built by Madame Tussaud’s & Highland Musso &
Frank Grill
Hollywood
Welton Beckett in 1963 to show
Cinerama movies, a wide-screen Hollywood Egyptian
Theatre
technique requiring three 35 mm Roosevelt El Capitan Pig ’n’ Whistle
Hotel
projectors. The ArcLight theaters Hollywood
Museum
(see p62) are also part of the complex. Hollywood
High School
MORNING
Begin at La Brea Avenue and
Hollywood Boulevard, heading
east to the Hollywood Roosevelt
Hotel (see p12 and p145), home of
the first Academy Awards. In the
TCL Chinese Theatre (see p12 and
p63) you can stand on the
footprints of your favorite stars.
An escalator will whisk you into
the vast Hollywood & Highland
complex (see p13) with great
shopping and views of the
Hollywood Sign (see p99) and the
dazzling El Capitan (see p63). Stop
by the Hollywood Museum at
1660 N Highland to see costumes,
props, and sets from film favorites
The interior of Hollyhock House before taking a two-block detour
south on Highland Avenue to
Hollyhock House
9 Hollywood High School, alma
mater of Lawrence Fishburne.
MAP D2 • 4800 Hollywood
Blvd • 323-644-6269 • Tours Have your picture taken with the
stars (almost) at Madame
11am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm (free Tussauds Hollywood, on 7024
for under 13s) Hollywood Boulevard. From there,
The Mayan-style mansion, designed head east for a delicious lunch at
by Lloyd Wright in 1921 for oil the Pig ’n’ Whistle (see p103).
heiress Aline Barnsdall, is a commu-
nity arts center. Depictions of the AFTERNOON
hollyhock, her favorite flower, appear Back on Hollywood Boulevard,
everywhere on façades and furniture. you’ll come across the exotic
Egyptian Theatre (see p13 and
Crossroads of the World
0 p62) and, at No. 6667, Musso &
Frank Grill (see p103), the oldest
MAP P3 • 6671 Sunset Blvd
• Open for strolling restaurant in Hollywood, once the
The centerpiece of this unique haunt of Chaplin, Hemingway,
and other famous people. Wrap
architectural metaphor is a ship-like up the day with drinks and sunset
Art Deco building that “sails” into views at Yamashiro Restaurant
a courtyard flanked by cottages in (see p102), followed by a burger
styles ranging from Spanish Colonial and a Guinness milkshake at the
to German gingerbread. A quiet popular and trendy 25 Degrees
office complex, it was built in 1936 at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel,
by Robert Derrah, who designed the 7000 Hollywood Blvd.
Coca-Coca Bottling Plant (see p81).
See map on p98
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102 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Bars and Clubs

















The dimly lit Art Deco-style bar at Boardner’s, built in 1942
Yamashiro Restaurant
Boardner’s
1 6
MAP P2 • 1999 N Sycamore
MAP P2 • 1652 N Cherokee
Ave • 323-462-9621 Ave • 323-466-5125
• www.boardners.com • www.yamashirorestaurant.com
This historical bar has a large dance A spot for sunset drinks with
floor and live entertainment. gorgeous city views. Follow with
dinner in the Japanese restaurant.
The Room Hollywood
2 Create
MAP Q2 • 1626 N Cahuenga
MAP Q2 • 6021 Hollywood
Blvd • 866-687-4499 • www. 7
theroomhollywood.com Blvd • 323-463-3331
Dance to hip hop, R&B, and • www.createnightclub.com
occasional old rock at this stylish Top DJs and live electronic music
club with a no-attitude vibe. attract large crowds. Tickets sell
out early, so call ahead.
The Woods
3 Frolic Room
MAP P2 • 1533 N La Brea Ave
• 323-876-6612 • www. 8
MAP Q2 • 6245 Hollywood
vintagebargroup.com Blvd • 323-462-5890
Hidden in a nondescript mini-mall, Bartenders wearing bow ties and
this tiki lounge features live bands. vests pour the drinks here, while
the jukebox entertains.
Loaded Hollywood
4 Formosa Café
MAP Q2 • 6377 Hollywood
MAP P3 • 7156 Santa Monica
Blvd • 323-464-5689 • www. 9
loadedhollywood.com Blvd • 323-850-9050
A raucous, gritty dive bar that draws Where Humphrey Bogart and
hipsters and fashionistas with its Marilyn Monroe once hung out.
strong drinks and loud dance music. Enjoy the signature Mai Tais and
tasty California-Asian treats.
Good Times at
5 Good Luck Bar
Davey Wayne’s
MAP Q2 • 1611 N El Centro Ave 0
MAP D2 • 1514 Hillhurst Ave
• 323-962-3804 • www.goodtimes • 323-666-3524
atdaveywaynes.com A cool crowd gathers around the oval
Tiki drinks and alcohol-infused snow bar at this fashionable Chinese-style
cones are served at this retro bar. Silver Lake watering hole.
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Hollywood ❮❮ 103

Places to Eat


Jones Hollywood
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP N3 • 7205 Santa Monica
Price categories include a three-course
Blvd • 323-850-1726 • Closed lunch meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
Sat & Sun • $$$
Popular with the locals, this little $ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
spot serves classic thin-crust pizza, $$$$ over $80
spaghetti and meatballs, and for
La Numero Uno
many, the best apple pie in town. 5
MAP Q2 • 1247 Vine St
Franco on Melrose
2 • 323-957-1111 • $
A good place for Mexican specialties
MAP N4 • 6919 Melrose Ave
• 323-934-3390 • Closed Sun • $$ such as fried plantain with beans
Enjoy home-made pasta, lamb, and cream, and yucca with
linguine with clams, and carciofi (raw chicharrón (fried pork rinds).
artichoke salad) in the romantic
The Musso & Frank Grill
outside courtyard setting. BYOB. 6
MAP P2 • 6667 Hollywood
Ammo To Go
3 Blvd • 323-467-7788 • $$
Steaks and chops dominate the menu
MAP N4 • 6909 Melrose
• 323-871-2666 • $$ of Hollywood’s oldest restaurant
Simple California comfort food to go (open since 1919). It was a major
is served from morning to night at hangout for celebrities such as
this well-known eatery. Hemingway and other literary giants.
Café Stella
7
MAP D2 • 3932 W Sunset Blvd
• 323-666-0265 • Closed Sun & Mon
• $$
This romantic French-style eatery
offers mostly outdoor seating in a
lovely courtyard with hanging am ber
lights and olive and lavender plants.
Los Balcones del Peru
8
MAP Q3 • 1360 Vine St
• 323-871-9600 • $$
This is a casual spot for delicious
Peruvian food. Wash it all down with
Argentinian wine or Peruvian beer.
Jitlada Restaurant
9
MAP D2 • 5233 W Sunset Blvd
• 323-667-9809 • Closed Mon • $$
Original decor at Pig ’n’ Whistle Considered by many to be the best
Thai in LA, Jitlada serves up exotic
Pig ’n’ Whistle
4 curries and delightful papaya salads.
MAP P2 • 6714 Hollywood
Yuca’s Hut
Blvd • 323-463-0000 • Veg: Limited 0
• $$ MAP D2 • 2056 N Hillhurst Ave,
This 1927 landmark has faithfully Los Feliz • 323-662-1214 • Closed
retained its gorgeous dark wood Sun • No credit cards • Veg: No • $
interior. The menu features a Head this way for yummy Mexican
number of famous pork dishes. food. Try the cochinita pibil tacos.
See map on p98
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106 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

West Hollywood

and Midtown


West Hollywood is LA’s party zone and teems with nightclubs,
restaurants, bars, and comedy clubs. After dark, Sunset Strip is the
center of the action for poseurs, producers, and
the pretty in-crowd. This is also LA’s gay quarter,
especially along Santa Monica Boulevard. For
shopaholics there’s Melrose Avenue, a quirky
pathway lined with designer stores, tattoo
parlors, Gothic-chic shops, and bustling cafés
and eateries. It’s also home to the Pacific
Design Center, the anchor of the Avenues of
Art & Design. For cultural edification, head
south to an amorphous district we’ve termed
“Midtown,” whose main artery, Wilshire
Boulevard, boasts some of the city’s finest
Historic trolley
on The Grove museums along the historic Miracle Mile.

AREA MAP OF WEST HOLLYWOOD AND MIDTOWN
0 meters 1000
W SU NSET B LVD NORTH OGDEN DRIVE
THE BIRD 0 miles 1000
STREETS
FOUNTAIN AVENUE FOUNTAIN AVENUE
S AN TA MONIC A B LV D SA NTA MO N I C A B LV D S O U T H L A B R E A AV E N U
N O R T H FA I R FA X
WILLOUGHBY AVE WILLOUGHBY AVE
MELR OSE AVENUE
N ORLANDO AVENUE
MELROSE AVENUE
NORTH DOHENY DRIVE
WEST HOLLYWOOD A V E N U E
NORTH CURSON AVENUE
BEVERLY N SWEETZER AVE ST 3RD STREET N MARTEL AVENUE N ALTA VISTA BLVD
5 miles HILLS
NORTH GENESEE AVENUE
N GARDNER STREET
N CRESCENT HEIGHTS BOULEVARD
BEVERLY BLVD
BEVERLY BOULEVARD BEVERLY BOULEVARD
N LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD
Pan
Top 10 Sights Pacific
see pp107–9 N ORLAND O AVE WE Park
Places to Eat WEST 3RD STREET S O U T H A LTA V I S TA B L V D
see p113 NORTH FAIRFAX AVENUE S O U T H L A B R E A
Shops on Melrose N SWEE TZER AVE CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD PARK LA
BREA
Avenue S LA JOLLA AVE
see p112 WEST 6TH STREET
Bars and Clubs WILSHIRE BOULEVARD
on Sunset Strip WEST 6TH STREET AV E N U E
see p110
Art Galleries W OLYMPIC BLVD HAUSER BLVD
N SAN VI CENTE BLV D N SAN VICENTE BLVD
see p111
WEST OLYMPIC BLVD
Previous pages Campus of the University of California, Los Angeles
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West Hollywood and Midtown ❮❮ 107

The Grove
1
MAP N5 • 189 The Grove Drive
• 323-900-8000 • Open 10am–9pm
Mon–Thu, 10am–10pm Fri & Sat,
10am–8pm Sun
Adjoining the Farmers Market, the
Grove is an attractive, upscale
outdoor shopping and dining center
with a first-rate 14-screen movie
theater. This mall features highlights
such as a historic trolley and a
fountain with a water show set to
music. Along with adjacent CBS
Television City and the Farmers
Market, the Grove occupies land
once owned by the Gilmore family. Twelve Months of the Year, LACMA
Gilmore Stadium, home of the
Los Angeles County
Hollywood Stars, a baseball team 3
owned by Bing Crosby, Cecil B. Museum of Art (LACMA)
DeMille, and Barbara Stanwyck, was A virtual cornucopia of paintings,
once located where CBS now stands. sculpture, furniture, and objects that
would take several days to peruse
Original Farmers Market
2 await in six buildings. LACMA also
hosts touring exhibits (see pp20–23).
MAP M5 • 6333 W 3rd St
• 323-954-4230 • Open 9am–9pm
Sunset Strip
Mon–Fri, 9am–8pm Sat, 10am–7pm 4
Sun • www.farmersmarketla.com Sunset Strip has been LA’s
In 1934, two entrepreneurs asked nocturnal playground since the
landowner E. B. Gilmore for 1920s and is the most
permission to start a produce history-laden section of the
market on a vacant parking lot on 25-mile (40-km) Sunset
his property. Soon after, a group Boulevard. Stars, starlets,
of farmers started selling and those who like to be
fresh fruit, flowers, and around them are drawn
vegetables from trucks. Many to the land marks,
of the 150 stalls of Farmers including the Chateau
Market, such as Magee’s Marmont, the Whisky a
Nuts, have been in the same Go-Go, the Mondrian
families for generations. Hotel with its exclusive
Scouts from nearby CBS TV SkyBar, and Johnny
City roam in search of game- Depp’s music club, the
show audience members. Viper Room (see pp14–15).
Farmers Market


















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108 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area














Futuristic building of the Petersen Automotive Museum
Petersen Automotive
Craft & Folk Art
5 7
Museum
Museum (CAFAM)
MAP M6 • 6060 Wilshire Blvd, MAP N6 • 5814 Wilshire Blvd, Miracle
Miracle Mile • 323-930-2277 Mile • 323-937-4230 • Open 11am–
• Open 10am–6pm daily • Adm 5pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat & Sun
LA’s evolution from sleepy outpost 6:30–9:30pm first Thu of month • Adm
to sweeping megalopolis is uniquely (free for under 10s) • www.cafam.org
tied to the rise of the automobile. This small museum is dedicated to
This is the basic premise of this showcasing handicrafts and folk art
wonderful museum, which does a lot from around the world. The brain­
more than display pretty vintage cars child of folk art collector Edith Wyle,
(though there are plenty of those, it was originally launched in 1965 as
too). On the ground floor, you’ll follow “The Egg and The Eye,” a gallery
a Los Angeles “streetscape” space and omelet restaurant. Apart
through 100 years of car history. from its changing exhibits, CAFAM
You’ll pass dioramas of a 1920s is best known for its annual
gas station, a 1930s show­ International Festival of Masks,
room, and a 1950s drive­in which is held in October.
restaurant. Upstairs, the cars
Melrose Avenue
take center stage. Exhibits 8
change regularly, but they Though it has seen
usually include galleries better days, Melrose
devoted to hot rods, Avenue (see p112) is still
motorcycles, and a haven for Hollywood
vehicles owned by hipsters and the place
celebrities or used in to stock up on vintage
movies. For children, threads, provocative
the Discovery Center fashions, and unusual gift
makes science fun. items. Weekend after­
Fashion from noons are prime time
Avenues of
6 Melrose Avenue for soaking it all up.
Art & Design
MAP L4 • Along Beverly Blvd,
Robertson Blvd, & Melrose Ave GAY LOS ANGELES
between La Cienega Blvd & Doheny Dr West Hollywood is the center of LA’s
The streets surrounding the Pacific gay and lesbian community. There’s
Design Center (PDC) are flanked plenty of partying in the many
with design stores where you can happening bars, clubs, cafés, and
actually buy – and not just look at (as restaurants along Santa Monica
in the PDC) – what you see. Best Boulevard. Huge crowds turn up for
the colorful Christopher Street West
explored on foot, the district is filled Parade in June and the wonderfully
with cutting­edge art galleries (see outrageous Halloween Carnival.
p111), trendy restaurants, and cafés.




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West Hollywood and Midtown ❮❮ 109

Pacific Design Center
9 A DAY IN HOLLYWOOD
(PDC)
MAP L4 • 8687 Melrose Ave, 310-657- Bar Marmont The Laugh Factory
0800, open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri Comedy Standard
Store
• MOCA at PDC: 310-289-5223, Sunset Hollywood
Strip
open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 8pm Melrose
Thu), 11am–6pm Sat & Sun Avenue
• www.moca.org
The 130 showrooms of this complex Fairfax The Grove
display the finest in furniture, fabrics, Lucques Avenue
lighting, and accessories. With a Farmers Market
contem porary 1975 design by Cesar Petersen LACMA
Pelli the most striking feature of the Automotive Page Museum
Museum
PDC is the blue glass façade, known
as “The Blue Whale.” The clover-green MORNING
addition dates from 1988. Behind the
PDC is a branch of the Museum of Start your day at Wilshire
Contemporary Art (see p78), show- Boulevard’s “Museum Row” to
casing architecture and design. catch the latest headline exhibit
at LACMA (see pp20–23) or to see
selections from its superb
permanent collection. Don’t
miss the beautiful Pavilion for
Japanese Art. If you can muster
the energy before lunch, head
for the Petersen Automotive
Museum or the Page Museum.
Leaving Museum Row, drive a
few blocks north to the Farmers
Market (see p107). Try the Cajun
food at Gumbo Pot, or the all-
American menu at Du-Par’s.
AFTERNOON
Page Museum entrance
For an afternoon of shopping,
Page Museum at the
0 start with the Farmers Market
La Brea Tar Pits
itself, then wander over to The
MAP N6 • 5801 Wilshire Blvd, Miracle Grove (see p107), an outdoor mall.
Head north on Fairfax Avenue,
Mile • 323-934-7243 • Open 9:30am– turning right on Melrose Avenue.
5:30pm • Adm (free first Tue of month This quintessential LA shopping
and for under 5s) • www.tarpits.org street is packed with fun and
Mammoths, saber-toothed cats, and funky stores and offers great
dire wolves are the stars of this people-watching opportunities,
museum offering a look at life in LA especially on weekends.
during the last Ice Age. Since 1906, Head off for an early dinner at
excavations at the pits adjacent to Lucques (see p113), with its deli-
the museum have yielded more than cious Californian-Mediterranean
one million fossilized bones of about cuisine, then drive up to Sunset
450 species, from insects to birds Strip (see p107) for an evening of
and mammals. Many are now on laughs at the Comedy Store (see
p65) or The Laugh Factory (see
display at the museum, which also p65). Make your reservations in
houses a glass-walled laboratory advance. Showtime is usually
where paleontologists may be seen 8pm. Round off your day with
working. Outside the museum, life- a drink at Bar Marmont (see
size replicas of mammoths trapped p110) or the lounge at the chic
in muck dramatize the ghastly fate of Standard Hollywood (see p146).
Los Angeles’s prehistoric denizens.
See map on p106

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110 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Bars and Clubs on Sunset Strip


Saddle Ranch Chop
Rainbow Bar & Grill
1 6
House
MAP K3 • 9015 Sunset Blvd
• 310-278-4232 MAP M3 • 8371 W Sunset Blvd
Rock‘n’roll devotees flock to this • 323-656-2007
legendary bar filled with photos, A Texas­style steakhouse popular
records, and guitars of every head­ with families until 10pm, when it
liner rocker group imaginable. becomes a lively night­time hangout.
Viper Room
7
MAP L3 • 8852 Sunset Blvd
• 310-358-1880
Celebrity musicians such as Bruce
Springsteen stage concerts at this
famous club (see p15 & p54).
Whisky a Go-Go
8
MAP L3 • 8901 W Sunset Blvd
• 310-652-4202
LA’s epicenter of rock’n’roll in the
Upscale SkyBar, with its famous pool 1960s, this club found fame for The
Doors and still books new bands.
SkyBar
2 The Roxy
MAP M3 • 8440 Sunset Blvd, at
the Mondrian Hotel • 323-848-6025 9
MAP K3 • 9009 W Sunset Blvd
Famous for its poolside cocktails, • 310-278-9457
celebrity crowd, and sweeping city Serious music fans love this no­
views. Getting past the velvet rope nonsense club, where the focus is on
here is a tall order. the show, not the decor or the crowd.
The Cactus Lounge
Bar Marmont
3 0
at the Standard
MAP M3 • 8171 Sunset Blvd
MAP M3 • 8300 Sunset Blvd • 323-650-0575
• 323-822-3111 Super­trendy lounge next to the
The entertainment at this hotel hot Chateau Marmont hotel (see p145)
spot includes a live acoustic music with lots of beautiful people. To
series, book readings, a DJ above increase your chances of getting
the reception, and dancing. past the front door arrive early, by
about 9 or 10pm.
Pearl’s Rooftop
4
MAP L3 • 8909 Sunset Blvd
• 310-360-6800
Resembling a 1920s­style speakeasy,
Pearl’s has three levels of drinking
fun, including an upper deck with
views across West Hollywood.
Hyde Sunset Kitchen
5
& Cocktails
MAP M3 • 8117 Sunset Blvd
• 323-940-1650
Expect exclusivity and attitude at
this celeb­heavy nightclub, with
private tables and large couches. Neon signs at Bar Marmont


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110 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area West Hollywood and Midtown ❮❮ 111

Art Galleries













Fine art photography exhibition at Fahey/Klein Gallery
Moran Bondaroff
Fahey/Klein Gallery
1 6
MAP P5 • 148 N La Brea Ave
MAP L4 • 937 N La Cienega
Blvd • 310-652-1711 • 323-934-2250
A spacious gallery exhibiting A power in the world of rare, vintage,
trendsetting contemporary work by and contemporary art photography,
several artists, including the late Fahey/Klein showcases Henri
photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. Cartier- Bresson and other high-
profile artists.
Gallery 1988
2 101/EXHIBIT
MAP K4 • 7021 Melrose Ave
MAP K4 • 8920 Melrose Ave
• 323-937-7088 7
This small space is crowded with • 310-271-7980
some of the city’s hottest new talent. The works of established and
It is known as the best place in the up-and-coming contemporary artists
US for pop-culture-themed work. are featured at this innovative gallery.
George Stern Fine Arts
Known Gallery
3 8
MAP M4 • 441 N Fairfax Ave
MAP K4 • 8920 Melrose Ave
• 310-276-2600 • 310-860-6263
This gallery specializes in late 19th- • www.knowngallery.com
and early 20th-century California- Specializing in contemporary,
based Impressionist landscape “street,” and graffiti artists, the
painters such as Guy Rose. monthly exhibitions at this spacious
gallery draw large crowds.
Leica Store and Gallery
4 Tobey C. Moss
MAP L5 • 8783 Beverly Blvd
• 424-777-0341 9
MAP N5 • 7321 Beverly Blvd
In addition to a sales showroom of • 323-933-5523
Leica cameras, a gallery celebrates This LA art-scene fixture began with
the world through the lenses of the a focus on prints and drawings, but
world’s finest photographers. is best known as a keen promoter of
pre-1960s California Modernists.
Hamilton-Selway
5 Jan Baum Gallery
Gallery
MAP L4 • 8678 Melrose Ave 0
MAP P5 • 170 S La Brea Ave
• 310-657-1711 • 323-932-0170
Home to the largest collection of Jan Baum is a top dealer in American
Andy Warhol originals on the West and international art, as well as
Coast, this gallery also features African-American artists, including
Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring, the Saar family. Betye Saar designed
and other pop art icons. Biddy Mason park (see p82).
See map on p106
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112 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Shops on Melrose Avenue


Wasteland
5
MAP N4 • 7428 Melrose Ave
• 323-653-3028
Stylists and bargain-hunters shop
for vintage clothing, accessories, and
shoes at this warehouse-sized store.
Wanna Buy a Watch?
6
MAP N4 • 8465 Melrose Ave
• 323-653-0467
Best known for its selection of
vintage watches, this classy store
also now stocks contemporary watch
Jewelry galore at Maya Jewelry models, antique diamond rings, and
1920s Art Nouveau baubles.
Maya Jewelry
1 l.a.Eyeworks
MAP N4 • 7360 Melrose Ave
• 323-655-2708 7
MAP N4 • 7407 Melrose Ave
This small store stocks affordable • 323-653-8255
jewelry, mostly silver, to adorn any This unusual and vibrant store is
body part you wish. It also has a known for featuring the most unique
great mask collection. eyeglass designs on the planet and
attracts its share of the hip crowd.
Decades & Decades Two
2 Kelly Wearstler
MAP M4 • 8214 Melrose Ave
• 323-655-1960 8
MAP L4 • 8440 Melrose Ave
If Rodeo Drive is out of your • 323-895-7880
league, try this couture resale A favorite destination
boutique that stocks for celebrity shop pers,
second-hand clothing this lifestyle store
and 1960s and 1970s stocks home decor,
Pucci and Courrèges. furniture, lighting,
fabrics, and gifts.
Fred Segal
3 Tenoversix
MAP M4 • 8100
MAP L4
Melrose Ave (also at 420 9
Broadway, 500 Broadway) Jewelry box, • 8425 Melrose Ave
• 323-651-4129, 310-394-9814 Kelly Wearstler • 323-330-9355
This über-trendy house of Cheerful, eclectic, and
style attracts A-list celebrities. fun. Come here to find the perfect
Shop for luxurious clothes, beauty accessory, bag, pair of shoes, or
products, and gift items at steep jewelry created by local designers
prices (see p54). and presented in surroundings that
resemble an art gallery.
Melrose Trading Post
4 Necromance
MAP M4 • At the corner of
MAP P4 • 7220 Melrose Ave
Melrose & Fairfax aves • 323-655- 0
7679 • Open 9am–5pm Sun • 323-934-8684
• Adm (free for under 12s) If the sight of freeze-dried ducklings
This cool Sunday flea market takes gives you the creeps, you should
you back through the years with probably avoid this “little shop of
vintage fashions, collectibles, and horrors.” Budding sorcerers will find
retro furnishings. delightfully macabre stuff to buy.

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West Hollywood and Midtown ❮❮ 113

Places to Eat


Guisados
PRICE CATEGORIES 5
Price categories include a three-course MAP L4 • 8935 Santa Monica
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all Blvd • 310-777-0310 • $
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
You’ll find a variety of tasty meats
$ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80 topped on handmade corn tortillas
$$$$ over $80
in this popular taco restaurant.
Joan’s on Third
Angelini Osteria
1 6
MAP M5 • 8350 W 3rd St
MAP N5 • 7313 Beverly Blvd
• 323-297-0070 • Veg: On request • 323-655-2285 • $
• Closed Mon • $$$ This little deli is great for gourmets
Having cooked for the Pope and on the go or out for a casual lunch.
presidents, Chef Angelini now delights The tarragon chicken salad is great.
foodies with his comfort food.
Swingers
2
MAP M5 • 8020 Beverly Blvd
• 323-653-5858 • $$
This retro diner with its plaid booths
and Andy Warhol wall paper serves
steamy chicken soup and bulging
sandwiches until the wee hours.
Animal
3
MAP M4 • 435 N Fairfax
• 323-782-9225 • $$$ Floral decorations at The Ivy
The Ivy
Influential in the LA dining scene, 7
Animal serves rich, indulgent, and MAP L4 • 113 N Robertson
carnivore-friendly food. Try the Blvd • 310-274-8303 • $$$
chicken-liver mousse. Join the stars in two dining rooms
filled with flowers. Try the Caesar
Lucques
4 salad or the crispy crab cakes.
MAP N4 • 8474 Melrose Ave
Canter’s Deli
• 323-655-6277 • $$$$ 8
Try the pancetta-wrapped trout at MAP M4 • 419 N Fairfax
this intimate spot, then enjoy the • 323-651-2030 • $$
desserts by the fireplace. An LA classic since 1931, this family-
owned Jewish-style deli is a popular
Alfresco dining at Lucques after-hours spot.
Echigo
9
MAP R3 • 12217 Santa Monica
Blvd • 310-820-9787 • Closed Sun
• $$$
Sushi of all types and stripes is
on offer, and all of it is fresh.
M Café de Chaya
0
MAP P4 • 7119 Melrose Ave
• 323-525-0588 • $$
Chaya’s macrobiotic cuisine has a
huge following. Try the exquisite
club sandwich with tempeh “bacon.”
See map on p106

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114 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 115

Beverly Hills,

Westwood, and Bel-Air


Staff in livery standing over rows of Rolls-Royces, Tom Cruise
disembarking from a stretch limo, cellphone-addicted fat-cat
producers cutting poolside deals in pleasure-palace hotels –
this is Beverly Hills, where the smell of money pervades. Adjacent
Westwood is home to UCLA, one of the finest universities in the
country. Bel Air mansions have routinely passed from Fairbanks
and Bogart to Streisand and Diaz. The nearby Getty Center
serenely lords above it all in its white majesty.

Beverly Hills Hotel
1
MAP J4 • 9641 Sunset Blvd
• 310-276-2251
• www.beverlyhillshotel.com
LA’s most famous hotel (see p146)
has been part of Hollywood history
since its 1912 opening. Douglas
Fairbanks Sr. and Will Rogers got
drunk in the bar, Howard Hughes
rented Bungalow 3 for 30 years, and
Marilyn Monroe reportedly romanced
both JFK and RFK here. Political
leaders, royals, and film stars have
all stayed, partied, and cavorted at
The iconic Beverly Hills Hotel the legendary Pink Palace.
AREA MAP OF BEVERLY HILLS, WESTWOOD, AND BEL-AIR
(3 miles)(3 miles)
WEST SUNSET BLVD WEST SUNS E T BLV
BEL AIRBEL AIR ST ONE C ANYON RD WEST SUNSET BLVD WEST SUNS E
ELEVADO AVE ELEVADO AVE
ESTATESESTATES NORTH ROXBURY DR VADO AVE ELEVADO AVE
BENEDICT CANYON D R
ST ONE C ANYON RD
Bel Air Bel Air
WES T SUNSET BO U LEVARD
WES T SUNSET BO U LEVARD N BEVERLY GLEN BLVD S BEVERLY G LEN BLVD NORTH ROXBURY DR N B E
BENEDICT CANYON D R IVE IVE
Country Country
ClubClub
FOOTHILL ROAD
FOOTHILL ROAD
SAN D IEG O FWY
SAN D IEG O FWY
BELLA G IO R D
BELLA G IO R D
CA SCADA WAY
BELLAGIO RD
CA SCADA WAY
BELLAGIO RD
DICKSON D AVENUE
DICKSON D AVENUE
Rodeo DriveRodeo Drive 0 meters 300300 UCLAUCLA Holmby Holmby WH I T TIER D R I V N B E VERLY DRIVEDEO DR see Rodeo Drivesee Rodeo Drive B U R T O N WAY WAY
0 meters
N CANON DRIVE
WEST 3RD
WEST 3RD ST ST
N RODEO DR
N RODEO DR
PARK WAY GardensGardens 0 yards 300300 COURTCOURT HILGAR Country ClubCountry Club ELE N RODEO DR map, rightmap, right
B U R T O N
PARK WAY
ParkPark
0 yards
HILGAR
WH I T TIER D R I V
BeverlyBeverly
Los Angeles E
Los Angeles E
N RO
N CANON DRIVE RLY DRIVE
ParkPark
SANTA MONICA BLVD G AYLEY AV E N U E LE CONTELE CONTE H ILGARD AVE H ILGARD AVE WESTWOODWESTWOOD WILSHIRE B O U L E VA R D A R D S
SANTA MONICA BLVD
WILSHIRE B O U L E V
N BEVERLY GLEN BLVD S BEVERLY G LEN BLVD
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA
NORTH
NORTH
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA R D R D
CHARLEVILLE BLVD
VILLAGEVILLAGE
PLACEPLACE
S A N TA M O N I C A B LV D
N CRESCENT DR
S A N TA M O N I C A B LV D
N CRESCENT DR
GREGORY
GREGORY WAY
GREGORY WAYWAY
WILSHIRE BOULEVAR D
WILSHIRE BOULEVAR D
G AYLEY AV E N U E
BRIGHTON WAY N O R T H C A NYO N DR IV E V E TE R AN AV EN U E WESTH O LME AVE SOUTH BEVERLY GLEN B OULEV
BRIGHTON WAY
WEST OLYMPI C BOULEVARD
WEST OLYMPIC BOULE
THAYER AVE
THAYER AVE
S BEVERLY DRIVE
OHIO AVE
S DOHENY DR
S DOHENY DR
DRAYTON WAY Westwood Westwood OHIO AVE WEST OLYMPI C BOULEVARD WEST PICO BOULEVARD VARD
N O R T H C A NYO N DR IV E
NORTH BEVERLY
S ROBERTSON BLVD
S ROBERTSON BLVD
RODEO DRIVE
WEST PICO BOULE
RODEO DRIVE
WEST
WEST
WESTH O LME AVE
CENTURY PARK
ParkPark
CENTURY PARK
AVE OF THE STARS
CENTURY PARK E
CENTURY PARK E
S BEVERLY DR
S BEVERLY DR
C A S H I O S T
NO R TH C AM DEN DRI VE
NO R TH C AMDEN DR IVE
DRAYTON WAY DRIVE SAN DIEGO F WY WEST WOOD BOULEVARD S BEVERWIL DR S BEVERWIL DR C A S H I O S T R E E T R E E T
NORTH BEVERLY DRIVE
N PE CK DRIV E
N PECK DRIV E
BEDFORD DR
BEDFORD DR
Hillcr
V E TE R AN AV EN U E
WILSHIRE BOULEVARDWILSHIRE BOULEVARD P RO SS ER AVE Hillcrestest 0 kilometers0 kilometers 1 1
Country y
Countr
Club Club 0 miles0 miles 1 1
P RO SS ER AVE
SAN DIEGO F WY
SOUTH BEVERLY GLEN B OULEVARD
WEST WOOD BOULEVARD
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114 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 115


















Upscale designer boutiques line Rodeo Drive
Rodeo Drive
2 (see p144). Architecture fans should
Rodeo Drive (see p68 & p118)
check out Frank Lloyd Wright’s
is one of the world’s most famous – Anderton Court (see p118).
and expensive – shopping streets,
Beverly Hills
synonymous with a lifestyle of luxury 3
and fame. Only three blocks long, Civic Center
it is essentially a haute couture MAP J5 • East of Crescent Dr between
runway, with all the major inter­ Santa Monica Blvd & Burton Dr
national players represented here. The wealth of a city is often reflected
You’ll often spot nicely groomed in its public buildings, so it should
shoppers, although actual star come as no surprise that Beverly
sightings are rare. Rodeo’s southern Hills’ civic center is the envy of other
end is punctuated by the Beverly towns. The elegant City Hall was
Wilshire, one of LA’s grandest hotels built in 1932 in Spanish Renaissance
style and harmoniously incorporated
AREA MAP OF BEVERLY HILLS, WESTWOOD, AND BEL-AIR into a contemporary Spanish­style
complex with palm­lined walkways
(3 miles)(3 miles) and curved colonnades. It houses
WEST SUNSET BLVD WEST SUNS E T BLV
see pp114–17
BEL AIRBEL AIR ST ONE C ANYON RD WEST SUNSET BLVD WEST SUNS E T BLVD D Top
ELEVADO AVE ELEVADO AVE
ESTATESESTATES NORTH ROXBURY DR VADO AVE ELEVADO AVE Places to Eat 4
Skirball Cultural Center
see p119
MAP C2 • 2701 N Sepulveda
BENEDICT CANYON D R
ST ONE C ANYON RD
Bel Air Bel Air
WES T SUNSET BO U LEVARD N BEVERLY GLEN BLVD S BEVERLY G LEN BLVD NORTH ROXBURY DR N B E VE Temptations on Blvd
WES T SUNSET BO U LEVARD
BENEDICT CANYON D R IVE IVE
Country Country
ClubClub
FOOTHILL ROAD
FOOTHILL ROAD
SAN D IEG O FWY
SAN D IEG O FWY
BELLA G IO R D
BELLA G IO R D
Rodeo Drive
BELLAGIO RD
BELLAGIO RD
CA SCADA WAY
CA SCADA WAY
4500 • Open noon–5pm Tue–Fri,
DICKSON D AVENUE
DICKSON D AVENUE
see p118
Rodeo DriveRodeo Drive 0 meters 300300 UCLAUCLA Holmby Holmby WH I T TIER D R I V N B E VERLY DRIVEDEO DR see Rodeo Drivesee Rodeo Drive B U R T O N WAY WAY 10am–
0 meters
N CANON DRIVE
WEST 3RD
WEST 3RD ST ST
N RODEO DR
N RODEO DR
(free for under 2s, free Thu)
PARK WAY GardensGardens 0 yards 300300 COURTCOURT HILGAR Country ClubCountry Club ELE N RODEO DR map, rightmap, right • www.skirball.org
B U R T O N
PARK WAY
ParkPark
0 yards
HILGAR
WH I T TIER D R I V
BeverlyBeverly
Los Angeles E
Los Angeles E
N RO
N CANON DRIVE RLY DRIVE
This modern Jewish cultural center
ParkPark
SANTA MONICA BLVD G AYLEY AV E N U E LE CONTELE CONTE H ILGARD AVE H ILGARD AVE WESTWOODWESTWOOD WILSHIRE B O U L E VA R D A R D S RODEO
SANTA MONICA BLVD
WILSHIRE B O U L E V
N BEVERLY GLEN BLVD S BEVERLY G LEN BLVD
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA
Skirball (1896–1985), a rabbi and
CHARLEVILLE BLVD
W I L S H I R E B O U L E VA R D R D
NORTH
NORTH
VILLAGEVILLAGE
PLACEPLACE
S A N TA M O N I C A B LV D
S A N TA M O N I C A B LV D
N CRESCENT DR
producer of Hitchcock films. The
N CRESCENT DR
GREGORY WAY
GREGORY
GREGORY WAYWAY
WILSHIRE BOULEVAR D
WILSHIRE BOULEVAR D
G AYLEY AV E N U E
BRIGHTON WAY
BRIGHTON WAY N OR T H C A NYO N DRI VE V E TE R AN AV EN U E WESTH O LME AVE SOUTH BEVERLY GLEN B OULEVARD AVE O
a multi media museum. Exhibits
WEST OLYMPI C BOULEVARD
WEST OLYMPIC BOULE
THAYER AVE
THAYER AVE
S BEVERLY DRIVE
explore the parallels between
OHIO AVE
DRAYTON WAY Westwood Westwood OHIO AVE WEST OLYMPI C BOULEVARD WEST PICO BOULEVARD VARD the Jewish experience and the
S DOHENY DR
S DOHENY DR
N OR T H C A NYO N DRI VE
NORTH BEVERLY
S ROBERTSON BLVD
WEST PICO BOULE
S ROBERTSON BLVD
RODEO DRIVE
RODEO DRIVE
WEST
WEST
WESTH O LME AVE
principles of American democracy.
CENTURY PARK
CENTURY PARK
ParkPark
CENTURY PARK E
AVE OF THE STARS
CENTURY PARK E
S BEVERLY DR
S BEVERLY DR
C A S H I O S T
DRAYTON WAY DRIVE SAN DIEGO F WY WEST WOOD BOULEVARD S BEVERWIL DR S BEVERWIL DR C A S H I O S T R E E T R E E T The ongoing exhibition, Visions and
NORTH BEVERLY DRIVE
NO R TH C AM DEN DR I VE
NOR T H C AM DEN DR I VE
N PECK DRIV E
N PECK DR IV E
BEDFORD DR
BEDFORD DR
V E TE R AN AV EN U E
WILSHIRE BOULEVARDWILSHIRE BOULEVARD P RO SS ER AVE HillcrestHillcrest 0 kilometers0 kilometers 1 1 Values, looks at Jewish life from
CountryCountry
ClubClub 0 miles0 miles 1 1 Antiquity to America.
P RO SS ER AVE
SOUTH BEVERLY GLEN B OULEVARD
SAN DIEGO F WY
WEST WOOD BOULEVARD
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116 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 117

The Paley Center
5
for Media
MAP J5 • 465 N Beverly Dr • 310-786-
1000 • Open noon–5pm Wed–Sun
• Donation • www.paleycenter.org
Most people alive today have grown
up watching television, one of the
defining media of the 20th century.
This center, housed in a striking
building by Getty Center architect
Richard Meier, was originally built to
collect, preserve, and share nearly
80 years of radio and TV history.
About 120,000 programs – from news
to musicals and sports to sitcoms –
have been cataloged and are available
for viewing and listening. Today it has
expanded to include resources for
digital media and offers a wide
schedule of classes and events.
Royce Hall entrance, UCLA
University of California,
7
Los Angeles (UCLA)
MAP C2 • • 310-825-4321
• www.ucla.edu
One of the nation’s top research
universities, UCLA (founded in 1919)
counts many luminaries among its
alumni, including Francis Ford
Coppola. It has around 150 buildings,
with architectural gems such as
Royce Hall. The Fowler Museum
has a marvellous collection of non-
Exhibition, UCLA Hammer Museum Western art. To the north is the
lovely Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture
UCLA Hammer Museum
6 Garden (see p51).
MAP C2 • 10899 Wilshire Blvd
The Getty Center
• 310-443-7000 • Open 11am–8pm 8
Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun • Adm Although best known for its
(free for under 17s, free for students collection of European art, the Getty
with ID, free Thu) • www.hammer. offers much more – a hilltop setting
ucla.edu with sweeping views from the ocean
This museum, run by UCLA, is the to the mountains, architecture as
legacy of Armand Hammer, an oil
tycoon who discovered a passion for
collecting art in the 1920s. Hammer BEVERLY HILLS BY NUMBERS
was especially fond of 19th-century Wealthy Beverly Hills still surprises in
French Impressionists such as some aspects. Its well-heeled denizens
Monet. Rotating exhibitions are really love their kids and spend around
complemented by traveling shows 28 percent more every year than the
with a more contem porary angle. state’s average on them. Unemployment
Free readings, film screenings, and here is at just under seven percent,
meaning that these natives rake in an
lectures are quite popular. Phone average of $96,000 per capita income
ahead or check the website for the – almost twice the national average.
latest events and exhibits.





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116 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 117


exquisite as “frozen music” (to quote A TOUR OF STARS’ HOMES
Goethe), and landscaped gardens
that are nothing less than the finest No.1025
art (see pp16–19). No.1021 No. 1004
No.1019 No. 1002
Museum of Tolerance
9 No. 1000 No. 904
MAP D2 • 9786 W Pico Blvd
• 310-772-2505 • Open 10am–5pm Sunset No. 918 Bedford Drive
Sun–Fri (Nov–Mar: until 3pmFri); Boulevard No. 730
Closed Jewish holidays No. 810
• Reservations advised • Adm No. 721 No. 512
• www.museumoftolerance.com Walden Drive
This high-tech museum confronts Witch’s House
visitors with issues of extreme
intolerance to make them realize MORNING
the need for greater acceptance in
today’s world. The experience begins Begin your tour of stars’ homes
at the “Tolerancenter,” whose by driving north on Walden Drive,
exhibits address issues such as just off Santa Monica Boulevard,
for a glimpse of the “Witch’s
human-rights violations and the Civil House”, located at the corner of
Rights movement. The Holocaust Carmelita Avenue and famous for
section, at the core, chronicles Nazi its Hansel-and-Gretel looks. Go
atrocities. An interesting multimedia right on Lomitas Avenue, then left
exhibit follows the lives of well- on Linden Drive, where mobster
known Americans from different Bugsy Siegel was gunned down
ethnic backgrounds. at No. 810 in 1947. Follow Linden
north to Sunset Boulevard, turn
right, then left on Roxbury Drive
for two star-packed blocks. As
well as Jimmy Stewart's former
home at No. 918, you’ll see the
erstwhile homes of song lyricist
Ira Gershwin (No. 1021), Diane
Keaton (No. 1025), singer
Rosemary Clooney (aunt of
George, at No. 1019), Peter Falk
(No. 1004), comedian Jack Benny
(No. 1002), and Lucille Ball
(No. 1000).
Turn right on Canyon Drive, then
right again on Bedford Drive,
The Westwood memorial park where the house at No. 904 was
at different times the home of
Pierce Brothers
0 stars such as Frank Sinatra, Rex
Westwood Village
Harrison, Anthony Quinn, Greta
Memorial Park Garbo and Ava Gardner. Steve
MAP C2 • 1218 Glendon Ave Martin used to live at No. 721 and
• 310-474-1579 • Open 8am–sunset Lana Turner at No. 730. It was
here in 1958 that Lana’s daughter
This small cemetery beneath Cheryl Crane is believed to have
Westwood’s office high-rises has killed her mother’s mobster-lover
more stars per square yard than Johnny Stompanato. No. 512 is
any other in LA. Marilyn Monroe’s the former home of silent screen
remains rest in an above-ground siren Clara Bow – where, in 1927,
crypt that is always decorated with she was rumored to have
flowers (Hugh Hefner has allegedly “entertained” the entire USC
football team, including Marion
reserved the adjacent space). Other Morrison, better known by his
celebs buried here are Natalie Wood, screen name of John Wayne.
Burt Lancaster, and Frank Zappa.
See map on pp114–15

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118 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 119

Temptations on Rodeo Drive
















Bijan’s two branded luxury cars parked outside the exclusive boutique
Bijan
Two Rodeo
1 6
MAP J6 • Rodeo Dr at
MAP J5 • 420 N Rodeo Dr
Wilshire Blvd • 310-273-6544
This cobbled lane resembles an • Open by appointment
idealized European shopping avenue This boutique stocks quality mens-
with fountains and a piazza. When it wear, which is said to be the world’s
opened in 1990, it was the first new most expensive. Famous client
street in Beverly Hills since 1914. names are etched into the window.
Gucci
Tiffany & Co
2 7
MAP J5 • 210 N Rodeo Dr
MAP J5 • 347 N Rodeo Dr
• 310-273-8880 • 310-278-3451
The meticulously crafted jewelry is The store is a sure-fire winner in
as exquisite as Audrey Hepburn was the looks department, but most
in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s, customers have eyes only for the
based on the store in New York. trademark shoes and handbags.
Harry Winston
Lalique
3 8
MAP J5 • 238 N Rodeo Dr
MAP J5 • 310 N Rodeo Dr
• 310-271-7892 • 310-271-8554
Best known for its exquisite crystal On Oscar night, when the stars come
pieces, this boutique also stocks out in their diamonds, they’re most
jewelry, watches, and perfume. likely on loan from here, one of the
world’s most exclusive jewelers.
David Orgell
4 The Rodeo Collection
MAP J5 • 320 N Rodeo Dr
MAP J5 • 421 N Rodeo Dr
• 310-273-6660 9
A Rodeo Drive fixture since 1958, this A white marble outdoor shopping
luxury emporium is famous for its mall with five floors of boutiques
antique silver, unique jewelry, and orbiting a sunken atrium courtyard
limited-edition designer watches. with a fancy eatery.
O’Neill House
Anderton Court
5 0
MAP J5 • 333 N Rodeo Dr
MAP J5 • 507 N Rodeo Dr
One of Frank Lloyd Wright’s later • Not open to the public
buildings (1953), the zigzagging ramp This 1988 complex sports whimsical
around a well of light is reminiscent Art Nouveau design elements
of New York’s Guggenheim Museum. borrowed from architect Gaudí.
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118 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area Beverly Hills, Westwood, and Bel-Air ❮❮ 119

Places to Eat


Spago Beverly Hills
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP K5 • 176 N Canon Dr
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all
• 310-385-0880 • $$$$ Price categories include a three-course
Stargazers are likely to report unavoidable extra charges including tax.
sightings when dining at Wolfgang $ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
Puck’s flagship restaurant (see p67). $$$$ over $80
Crustacean
2 impeccable service here. The menu
changes with the seasons to make
MAP J5 • 9646 S Santa Monica
Blvd • 310-205-8990 • $$$ the most of local produce.
A Beverly Hills hot spot, this serves
Emporium Thai
refined Vietnamese cuisine. Try 6
anything made with owner/chef’s MAP C2 • 1275 Westwood Blvd
“secret spices.” • 310-478-2838 • $
You can’t go wrong with the southern
The Palm
3 curry or the mango coconut salad
here. Satays with a variety of dipping
MAP K5 • 267 N Canon Dr
• 310-550-8811 • $$$$ sauces are a good choice too.
This classic steakhouse is noted for Produce is locally sourced.
its excellent service and caricatures
Matsuhisa
of the stars that line the walls. Start 7
out with the crab cakes, but save MAP L5 • 129 N La Cienega
room for the generous deserts. Blvd • 310-659-9639 • $$$
This is the original of Nobu
Matsuhisa’s small but growing
empire of Japanese-Peruvian
seafood restaurants. Ignore the
menu and surrender to the chef’s
formidable imagination.
Nate’n Al
8
MAP J5 • 414 N Beverly Dr
• 310-274-0101 • $
This modest kosher deli has been
catering to the stars since 1943.
Regulars swear by the huge sand-
wiches served on chunky rye bread.
9
Courtyard dining at the Polo Lounge Xi’an
MAP J5 • 362 N Canon Dr
Polo Lounge
4 • 310-275-3345 • $$
MAP J4 • 9641 Sunset Blvd •
For a light and tasty take on classic
310-276-2251 • Veg: On request • $$$$ Chinese dishes, head to this stylish
The menu of this Beverly Hills Hotel place with an outdoor patio. Try the
restaurant mixes signature dishes marvelous black bean sauce and
such as McCarthy salad with healthy the Peking duck.
Asian and hearty California cuisine. Il Cielo
Belvedere
5 0
MAP K5 • 9018 Burton Way
MAP J5 • 9882 Santa Monica
• 310-276-9990 • Closed Sun • $$$
Blvd • 310-788-2306 • $$$ Book a romantic table beneath a
Hollywood power brokers love the starlit sky in the enchanting garden
gold and peach dining room and and enjoy the classic Italian fare.
See map on pp114–15
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120 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Santa Monica Bay


Santa Monica Bay spans 20 miles (32 km)
between two of the richest communities in
California – Malibu and Palos Verdes. It’s truly
the “Gold Coast” of the Golden State, and its
shores have some of the finest beaches
anywhere, including Topanga, Santa Monica,
and Venice on through Manhattan, Hermosa,
Redondo, and Torrance. American surfing,
and the youth culture it spawned, was born
here. In the movies, these fabled beaches
have stood in for everything from Guadalcanal
and Tahiti to Shangri-la. The rows of huge,
Detail, Malibu
Adamson House stately palms along the Santa Monica
promenade cliffs epitomize California. The
main attraction, however, is Santa Monica Pier, which offers sundry
entertainment options and a lively carnival atmosphere.


AREA MAP OF SANTA MONICA BAY
WA S H I N G T O N A V E
Santa Monica BaySanta Monica Bay Studio CityStudio City Santa MonicaSanta Monica
CalabasaCalabasa
MONTANA AVE
101 101
WILSHIRE BLVD
ComellComell 27 27 405 405 MONTANA AVE WA S H I N G T O N A V E
SANTA MONICA BLVD
Malibu CreekMalibu Creek WILSHIRE BLVD
State ParkState Park TopangaTopanga 20TH ST
26th Street/
State ParkState Park BeverlyBeverly 2 2 26th Street/ 26TH ST
Bergamot Station
Bergamot Station
7 miles7 miles Monte NidoMonte Nido HillsHills WILSHIREWILSHIRE SANTA MONICA BLVD
20TH ST
MONTANAMONTANA 10
AV E
10
26TH ST
C O L O R A D O
SANTA MONICA FWY
17th Street/
1 1 LINCOLN BLVD AV E 17th Street/
SMC Station
SMC Station
10 10
LINCOLN BLVD
MalibuMalibu C O L O R A D O
MalibuMalibu 10 10 SANTA MONICASANTA MONICA SANTA MONICA FWY
14TH STREET
14TH STREET
1 1 AdamsonAdamson
HouseHouse 405 405 1 PICO BOULEVARD
SantaSanta
Point DumePoint Dume MonicaMonica 90 90 PICO BLVD PICO BOULEVARD
Downtown
see Santa Monicasee Santa Monica Marina del ReyMarina del Rey Downtown
OCEAN PARK BLVD
Santa Monica
map, rightmap, right OCEAN AVE Santa Monica 1 14TH ST
14TH ST
OCEAN AVE
InglewoodInglewood 10 10 PICO BLVD OCEAN PARK BLVD
LosLos
AngelesAngeles 105 105 OCEAN PARKOCEAN PARK 11TH STREET
1 1 PACIFIC COAST HIGH WAY
PACIFIC COAST
El SegundoEl Segundo
P acificP acific HawthorneHawthorne
11TH STREET HIGH WAY
ROSE AVENUE
Top 10 Sights O c eanO c ean 405 405 NEILSON WAY
see pp121–3 South BaySouth Bay ROSE AVENUE 1 1
NEILSON WAY
Places to Eat RedondoRedondo
Beach
see p127 Beach TorranceTorrance OAKWOODOAKWOOD
Unique Main PACIFIC AVE KINNEY BLVD
ABBOT
ABBOT
Street Boutiques 1 1
KINNEY BLVD
PACIFIC AVE
see p125 P acificP acific
Venice Boardwalk N VENICE N VENICE
Attractions Palos Verdes PeninsulaPalos Verdes Peninsula O c eanO c ean BLVD BLVD
see p124
Outdoor Pursuits
see p126 0 km0 km 5 5 0 meters0 meters 100100
Wayfarer’s ChapelWayfarer’s Chapel
0 miles0 miles 5 5 0 yards0 yards 100100
120-123_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 120 20/02/2017 15:17

Santa Monica Bay ❮❮ 121

Malibu Adamson House
Third Street Promenade
1 2
MAP B3 • 3rd St between
MAP B2 • 23200 Pacific Coast
Hwy, Malibu, 310-456-8432 • Malibu Broadway & Wilshire Blvd,
Lagoon Museum: open 11am–3pm, Santa Monica
adm (free for under 18s) • Adamson Downtown Santa Monica’s main
House: open 11am–3pm Fri & Sat artery, this is one of LA’s most
(last tour 2pm), adm (cash only) pleasant walking areas. The product
Overlooking the Malibu Lagoon, this of a success ful revitalization effort
Spanish Colonial-style mansion was in the late 1980s, it is flanked by
built by Rhoda Rindge Adamson and upscale shops, movie theaters, and
her husband Merritt in 1928. The restau rants. Street musicians from
complex showcases hand-painted around the globe perform flamenco,
ceramic tiles manufactured by jazz, and hip hop. On Wednesday and
Malibu Potteries, owned by the Saturday mornings, the farmers’
Rindge family. The Rindges also market attracts large crowds.
built the Malibu Colony, a celebrity
enclave where Tom Hanks has a
house. The Malibu Lagoon Museum
next to the Adamson House
chronicles Malibu’s history, from
its Chumash Indian origins to its
position as movie star Shangri-la.
AREA MAP OF SANTA MONICA BAY
Santa Monica BaySanta Monica Bay Studio CityStudio City Santa MonicaSanta Monica
WA S H I N G T O N A V E
MONTANA AVE
CalabasaCalabasa
101 101
WILSHIRE BLVD
ComellComell 27 27 405 405 MONTANA AVE WA S H I N G T O N A V E
SANTA MONICA BLVD
Malibu CreekMalibu Creek WILSHIRE BLVD
State ParkState Park TopangaTopanga 20TH ST
State ParkState Park BeverlyBeverly 2 2 26th Street/ 26TH ST
26th Street/
Bergamot Station
Bergamot Station
7 miles7 miles Monte NidoMonte Nido HillsHills WILSHIREWILSHIRE SANTA MONICA BLVD
20TH ST
MONTANAMONTANA 10
10
AV E
C O L O R A D O
26TH ST
SANTA MONICA FWY
17th Street/
1 1 LINCOLN BLVD AV E 17th Street/
SMC Station
SMC Station
10 10
LINCOLN BLVD
MalibuMalibu C O L O R A D O
MalibuMalibu 10 10 SANTA MONICASANTA MONICA SANTA MONICA FWY Third Street Promenade
14TH STREET
14TH STREET
1 1 AdamsonAdamson
HouseHouse 405 405 1 PICO BOULEVARD
Santa Monica Pier
SantaSanta
Point DumePoint Dume MonicaMonica 90 90 PICO BLVD PICO BOULEVARD 3
Downtown
see Santa Monicasee Santa Monica Marina del ReyMarina del Rey Downtown MAP A3 • At the end of
Santa Monica
OCEAN PARK BLVD
map, rightmap, right OCEAN AVE Santa Monica 1 14TH ST Colorado Ave • Hippodrome: 310-
14TH ST
OCEAN AVE
InglewoodInglewood 10 10 PICO BLVD OCEAN PARK BLVD 394-8042, open 11am–5pm daily (to
LosLos
AngelesAngeles 105 105 OCEAN PARKOCEAN PARK 11TH STREET 7pm Fri–Sun) • Pacific Park: 310-260-
8744 • Santa Monica Pier Aquarium:
1 1
PACIFIC COAST
El SegundoEl Segundo 310-393-6149
P acificP acific HawthorneHawthorne For a variety of entertainment, visit
ROSE AVENUE
11TH STREET HIGH WAY
PACIFIC COAST HIGH WAY
O c eanO c ean 405 405 NEILSON WAY Santa Monica Pier. California’s oldest
South BaySouth Bay ROSE AVENUE 1 1 amusement pier (built in 1908) also
NEILSON WAY
RedondoRedondo marks the western terminus of
Beach
Beach TorranceTorrance OAKWOODOAKWOOD Route 66. Its oldest attraction is the
1922 Looff Carousel, a historic ride
ABBOT
ABBOT
1 1 that has made many movie appear-
KINNEY BLVD
KINNEY BLVD
PACIFIC AVE
PACIFIC AVE
P acificP acific ances. It is located in Pacific Park, a
BLVD
Palos Verdes PeninsulaPalos Verdes Peninsula O c eanO c ean N VENICE N VENICE BLVD compact amusement park anchored
by a solar-powered Ferris wheel.
Tucked beneath the pier, the Santa
0 km0 km 5 5 0 meters0 meters 100100 Monica Pier Aquarium is a small,
Wayfarer’s ChapelWayfarer’s Chapel family-oriented facility where you can
0 miles0 miles 5 5 0 yards0 yards 100100
observe local marine life.
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122 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Bergamot Station
4 THE “FATHER OF VENICE”
Arts Center
MAP C3 • 2525 Michigan Ave, Venice sprang from the vision of
Santa Monica, 310-586-6488 tobacco magnate Abbot Kinney
• Santa Monica Museum of Art: (1850–1920), who transformed the
open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat, donation, soggy marshland lying south of Santa
www.smmoa.org • Other galleries: Monica into a canal-laced, oceanfront
open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, theme park complete with gondolas
and an amusement pier. It opened on
11am–5:30pm Sat July 4 1905, and was a grand success,
This former historic trolley station until fire destroyed most of the theme
has been renovated into a complex of park facilities in 1920.
nearly three dozen galleries, shops,
artists’ studios, and a café. A high­
Venice Boardwalk
light is the Santa Monica Art 6
Museum, exhibiting cutting­edge MAP A5 • Ocean Front Walk
artists, many of whom work in non­ between Venice Blvd & Rose Ave
traditional media, including video. It It is perhaps fitting that Venice
also organizes lectures, workshops, Beach, masterminded by an
and events designed to involve the eccentric visionary named Abbot
community in the creative process. Kinney, is LA’s epicenter of
counterculture. The circus­like
scene reigning along the seaside
boardwalk – officially known as
“Ocean Front Walk” – must be seen
to be believed (see p124). The area
is best avoided after dark.
Marina del Rey
7
MAP B6 • South of Venice
Beach • Visitors’ Bureau • 4701
Admiralty Way • 310-305-9545
With over 6,000 yachts and pleasure
boats, Marina del Rey is the largest
Bridge over the Venice Canals small­craft harbor in the world and
the place to come for those seeking
Venice Canals
5 fun on the water. Active types could
explore the harbor on kayaks. You
MAP B6 • Between
Washington & Venice blvds can also catch a dinner cruise, book
Only 3 miles (5 km) remain of Abbot a whale­watching trip (January to
Kinney’s original network of canals. March), or charter a sport fishing
The area, which once languished, boat. A favorite landlubber activity is
has become a beautiful, upscale a sunset dinner at one of the many
neighborhood. A narrow walkway excellent restaurants.
that is known as the Venice Canal
Walk threads through here. Picturesque Marina del Rey

















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Santa Monica Bay ❮❮ 123

Wayfarers Chapel
8 A DAY AT THE BEACH
MAP D4 • 5755 Palos Verdes
Dr South • 310-377-7919
• Open 9am–5pm Malibu Creek
The most famous structure by Frank Paradise State Park Santa
Lloyd Wright is a striking 1951 glass- Cove 1 Monica
and-stone memorial to 18th-century Malibu Surfrider Santa
Beach
theologian Emanuel Swedenborg. Zuma Adamson Monica
Beach
House
Pier
The chapel features landscaped Jodi Maroni's,
grounds, a reflecting pool and Venice Boardwalk Marina
del Rey
terraced amphitheater.
MORNING
Start your day with a drive north
along the Pacific Coast Highway
for glorious ocean views. Travel
to sheltered Paradise Cove
for breakfast at the pleasant
beachfront restaurant, followed
by a couple of hours of frolicking
in the surf here or a few miles
north at Zuma Beach (see p52).
Head back south, stopping
at Malibu Adamson House
(see p121) to admire beautiful
ceramic tiles before walking
over to Surfrider Beach (see
p52) to watch the world’s finest
surfers in action.
Glazed nave, Wayfarer’s Chapel
Then it’s off to Santa Monica.
Palos Verdes Peninsula
9 Stroll beneath the towering
palms of the bluff-top Palisades
MAP D5 • Follow Palos Verdes
Dr along the coast • Point Vicente Park (see p51) with the ocean at
Lighthouse: 31501 Palos Verdes Dr your feet. For better views of city
and sea, treat yourself to a ride
West • South Coast Botanic Garden: on the Ferris wheel on Santa
26300 Crenshaw Blvd Monica Pier (see p121) and
A drive along the coastline here perhaps a snack from one of
affords great ocean views with the pier’s many vendors.
Catalina Island (see pp42–3) in the
distance. Malaga Cove and Abalone AFTERNOON
Cove are popular for their tidepools, For the rest of the after noon, rent
and Point Vicente is good for whale- a bicycle and become part of LA’s
watching. Flower lovers should head beach scene during an easy ride
to the South Coast Botanic Garden. south to Venice along the paved
beachfront bike trail. Park the
South Bay
0 bike or push it along the bizarre
Venice Boardwalk (see p124),
MAP C3
Three picture-perfect beach towns perhaps stopping to get a tattoo
(henna or ink), visit a fortune
line the southern end of Santa teller, stock up on unique
Monica Bay. Of these, Manhattan souvenirs, or tank up on gourmet
Beach (see p53) is the most sophisti- sausages from Jody Maroni’s (see
cated, Hermosa (see p53) is the p124). If time permits, continue
liveliest, and Redondo (see p52) is south to Marina del Rey, one of
the most historical. A paved trail the world’s largest yacht harbors,
before heading back to Santa
parallel to the beach and connecting Monica for dinner.
all the three communities is perfect
for bicycling and inline skating.
See map on pp120–21
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124 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Venice Boardwalk Attractions


Windward Avenue
1 from 1963. Rescued from demolition
Flanking Windward Avenue
in the mid-1980s, the restored
are Venice’s oldest Renaissance- fishing pier reopened in 1997.
style buildings, including St. Marks
Drum Circle
Hotel, a hostel. 7
People of all backgrounds and
Sidewalk Café
2 ages gather on the beach on Sunday
afternoons, chanting and dancing
1401 Ocean Front Walk
• 310-399-5547 to the infectious rhythms of pots,
The kitchen produces satisfying bells, and bottles.
sandwiches, salads, and other
Beach Architecture
simple fare. A perfect spot for 8
people-watching. Unique private homes line
the Boardwalk between Venice and
Muscle Beach Venice
3 Washington Boulevards. Look for the
Check out beefy, hunky
one by Steven Ehrlich at No. 2311
bodybuilders with abs of steel at this and Frank Gehry’s eccentric Norton
outdoor gym, successor to the Santa House at No. 2509.
Monica original, which shut in 1959. Jody Maroni’s
Basketball Courts
Sausage Kingdom
4 9
The game’s always on at
2011 Ocean Front Walk
Venice’s famous outdoor courts, • 310-822-5639
especially during “Hoops by the The simple sausage goes gourmet
Beach,” which draws the best street at this very popular yet rather
basketball teams. unassuming take-out stand.
Street Performers
Murals
5 0
The best in the business,
Venice Reconstituted, 25
Boardwalk’s street performers Windward Ave at Speedway • Starry
dance, walk barefoot on glass, Night, Boardwalk at Wavecrest Ave
balance people on their chin, and Numerous murals beautify façades
even juggle chainsaws. all along the Venice Boardwalk and
its side streets. Rip Cronk’s Venice
Venice Pier
6 Reconstituted and Homage to a Starry
Night are the most famous.
Abbott Kinney built
Venice’s first pier back in 1905,
but the current model dates The 700-ft (213-m) Venice Pier











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Santa Monica Bay ❮❮ 125

Unique Main Street Boutiques


Angel City Books
ZJ Boarding House
1 7
MAP B4 • 218 Pier Ave, just off
MAP B5 • 2619 Main St
Main St • 310-399-8767 • 800-205-7795
Bookworms in search of rare and This store is for people with a
out-of-print books should look no passion for boards – the surf, skate,
further. A great café next door, too. or snow variety. The knowledgeable
staff help to pick through the huge
Caro Bambino
2 selection of gear.
MAP B4
Precious
• 2710 Main St 8
• 310-399-7971 Metal Arts
Everything for the MAP B5 • 2510 Main
new mother is sold St • 310-581-4844
at this family- Aspiring jewelers can
owned boutique, learn the tricks of the
from quality natural trade during work-
baby products and toys shops. Glass cases are
to stylish toddler apparel, Gifts from filled with unique pieces
and nursery furniture. Caro Bambino that are for sale.
Muji
jAdis
3 9
MAP B5 • 2701 Main St
MAP B5 • 2936 Main St
• 310-566-8345 • 310-396-3477
This Japanese minimalist retailer You can’t help but stop and gaze
is known for its natural-fiber, non- through the windows of this
label apparel. You’ll also find simple prop- and curiosity shop for sci-fi
stationery, travel items, dishes and filmmakers, with its spare-part
tableware, as well as furniture and robots, electrical gadgets, Zeppelins,
bedding on its two floors. and many other quirky items.
A Real Treat
4
Candy Boutique
MAP B5 • 2724 Main St
• 424-272-5416
For those particular about candy,
the selections here cover vegan,
gluten-free, kosher, and paleo diets.
Arts & Letters
5
MAP B5 • 2665 Main St
• 310-392-9076
This stationery store stocks
hundreds of artist-made greeting
cards, pens, and guest books. They
also create custom-made invitations.
Gadgets in the jAdis window
Vital Hemp
6 Shoop’s Delicatessen
MAP B5 • 2305 Main St
MAP B5 • 2400 Main St
• 310-450-2260 0
Soft, comfortable, and casual • 310-452-1019
eco-friendly hemp clothing that is This gourmet deli and café stocks
produced locally and guaranteed to Continental delicacies but special-
last longer than cotton or bamboo. izes in hard-to-find German imports.
See map on pp120–21
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126 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Outdoor Pursuits


Hiking
Kayaking
1 6
One of the nicest places for
Around 600 miles (970 km) of
hiking trails meander through the sea kayaking is off the coast of
Santa Monica Mountains, stretching Catalina Island (see pp42–3).
from Griffith Park in Hollywood to Traveling leisurely by yourself allows
the north of Malibu. Will Rogers you to explore its craggy coastline
State Park and Topanga State Park and to discover your own secret cove.
are good gateways for hiking.
Inline Skating
2
Enjoy this 22-mile (35-km)
paved trail parallel to the beach from
Temescal Canyon Road north of
Santa Monica to Torrance Beach.
Rental outfitters are abundant.
Sailing
3
Marina Boat Rentals:
Fisherman’s Village, Marina del Rey,
310-574-2822 Surfing off Surfrider Beach
Skipper around the marina or cruise
Surfing
out to the open ocean with your very 7
own sailboat. Rental outfits usually The archetypal California
have a variety for you to choose from. watersport is practiced all along
the coast – Surfrider Beach (see
Boogie Boarding
4 p52) in Malibu is most famous, but
Enjoy the thrill of the waves on Manhattan Beach (see p53) and Palos
a boogie board – it’s easy and fun. All Verdes (see p123) are equally popular.
the towns on the beach have rental
Hang-Gliding
stations on or near the sand. 8
Windsports: 818-367-2430,
Bicycling
5 www.windsports.com
The paved beach path
Learn to take to the skies while
is equally popular for training on beachside “bunny” hills
slow bike cruises. or launch from a height of 3,500 ft
Mountain bikers (1,070 m) on a breathtaking flight.
have plenty to
Windsurfing
explore in the 9
Santa Monica Captain Kirk’s (for gear rental
Mountains. & lessons): 310-833-3397
Cabrillo Beach (see p53), nicknamed
Bicycling on “Hurricane Gulch,” is LA’s wind-
Venice Boardwalk surfing mecca. The harbor side is
good for beginners, while advanced
surf ers can make for the open ocean.
Fishing
0
It is permitted to fish without a
license off any ocean pier. Sport
fishing boats leave from Fisherman’s
Village in Marina del Rey (see p122),
Shoreline Village in Long Beach, and
Ports O’ Call Village in San Pedro.

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Santa Monica Bay ❮❮ 127

Places to Eat


PRICE CATEGORIES this growing chain. Order at the
Price categories include a three-course counter and take a seat. Favorites
meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all include the albacore sandwich, the
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
kale salad, and the falafel wrap.
$ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
$$$$ over $80 Fritto Misto
7
MAP A4 • 601 Colorado Blvd
Inn of the Seventh Ray
1 • 310-458-2829 • $$
Come hungry to this friendly Italian
MAP B2 • 128 Old Topanga
Canyon Rd, off Pacific Coast Hwy café. Pasta-lovers will delight at the
• 310-455-1311 • $$ “create your own pasta” option.
Tucked away in leafy Topanga Choose a pasta, a sauce, and some
Canyon, this creekside retreat offers add ins and expect perfection.
organic vegetarian, fish, and chicken
Border Grill
dishes seasoned with a generous 8
sprinkling of New Age philosophy. MAP B3 • 1445 4th St, Santa
Monica • 310-451-1655 • $$
Father’s Office
2 Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan
Feniger serve up their unique blend
MAP C2 • 1018 Montana Ave,
Santa Monica • 310-393-2337 • $ of Mexican flavors. Try the delicious
This old neighborhood bar has good rock shrimp ceviche.
microbrews and tapas, although
regulars swear by the gourmet
burger. Delicious fries.
In-N-Out Burger
3
MAP D3 • 9149 S Sepulveda
Blvd • $
A favorite of out-of-towners as well
as locals. Customized burgers,
fries, and a milkshake make for
the perfect LA fast-food meal.
Blue Plate
4
MAP C2 • 1415 Montana Ave
• 310-260-8877 • $$
Locals flock here for the healthy
comfort food and creative dishes. Try Colorful Mexican decor, Border Grill
the Kitchen Sink Bowl for breakfast.
Uncle Bill’s
Service is fast, but expect a line. 9
Pancake House
Chinois on Main
5 MAP D3 • 1305 Highland Ave,
Manhattan Beach • 310-545-5177 • $
MAP B4 • 2709 Main St, Santa
Monica • 310-392-9025 • $$$ The pancakes and omelets are good,
A Franco-Chinese menu includes while the tasty French toast, burgers,
Cantonese duck in plum sauce. and salads are also very popular.
Jacket and tie required. Chez Melange
Tender Greens
6 0
MAP D4 • 1716 S Pacific Coast
MAP B3 • 201 Arizona Ave
Highway, Redondo Beach
• 310-587-2777 • $ • 310-540-1222 • $$
Healthy, fresh food sourced from The menu offers a United Nations
local farmers is the emphasis at of dishes, from sushi to schnitzel.
See map on pp120–21
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128 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Coastal Orange County


Rent a convertible, put the top down, and turn the radio up. Pacific
Coast Highway (or PCH as the locals call it) runs 42 miles (68 km)
alongside sweeping stretches of beach with vast ocean views and
secluded coves with tide pools bursting with marine life. Come
here to have fun and experience the sun-drenched coastal lifestyle.
Sometimes called the “California Riviera” for its palatial five-star
hotels, multimillion dollar homes, and yacht harbors, Orange
County (OC) also has charming cottages, gardens, and
communities that haven’t changed much in the last 50 years.
You can walk on piers, ride an old-fashioned Ferris wheel, admire
surfers, stroll through art galleries, splash in the water, watch
passersby from sidewalk cafés, or simply gaze out over the ocean.












Seafront properties in the beach town of San Clemente
AREA MAP OF COASTAL ORANGE COUNTY
Orange County GARDEN 5 ORANGE
GROVE Laguna Beach 1 mile
55
WESTMINSTER 22 SANTA
Seal Beach ANA B ROADWAY S T
1 405 5
Bolsa Chica FOUNTAIN OR ANGE N C OAST H WY
Ecological VALLEY C OUNT Y P A R K AV E
Reserve
Huntington 55 73
Beach 405
COSTA MESA
Pacific O cean S COA S T H I G HWAY
Newport Beach
0 km 1
Balboa Island
0 miles 1
0 kilometers 10
Crystal Cove
0 miles 5 State Park 1 ALISO 73
VIEJO
see Laguna Beach 5
Top 10 Sights map, above LAGUNA
see pp129–31 NIGUEL 74
Places to Eat 1
see p133 P acific Mission San Juan
Capistrano
Art Experiences O c ean
in Laguna Beach Dana Point
see p132 5
San Clemente

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Coastal Orange County ❮❮ 129

San Clemente
1 competition and to the International
Surfing Museum. Generally, it’s a
Center stage in the late 1960s
and early 1970s as the location of young crowd that comes here to hit
“the Western White House” during the beach and surf during the day,
the Nixon presidency, San Clemente and to enjoy a meal and a drink at
still has the feeling of a normal, night. Huntington has traditionally
non-touristy California beach town. been far more affordable than other
Downtown is filled with affordable beach towns further down the coast.
restaurants and cafés, as well as
antiques, apparel, and gift shops.
The town’s main attraction, though,
is its clean sandy beach and pier. At
the far south end of town, surfers
rate the Trestles spots as some of
the best on this stretch of coast.
Bolsa Chica
2
Ecological Reserve
MAP F5 • Huntington Beach
• www.bolsachica.org
A world away from the coastal beach
culture, this preserve is a wonderful
place to walk. An easy 1.5-mile Tide pools, Crystal Cove State Park
(2.4-km) trail loops through 2 sq
Crystal Cove State Park
miles (5 sq km) of restored salt 4
marsh (one of Southern California’s MAP G6 • 8471 Pacific Coast
largest), lowlands, and mesa, which Highway, Laguna Beach
are home to 200 species of migratory • www.crystalcovestatepark.org
birds. Displays point out the varieties Over 3 miles (5 km) of unspoiled
of herons, egrets, plovers, terns, and shoreline, tide pools, and secluded
ospreys that roost here, as well as coves are yours to explore here.
the mussels, clams, and 50 species Offshore, you may see a pod of
of fish present. dolphins frolicking by or even a few
California gray whales. Along part of
Huntington Beach
3 the beach, 46 vintage cottages (many
Known as “Surf City USA”
of which you can rent) make up the
in no small part because of the Crystal Cove Historic District, which
consistent waves that break along exemplifies early 20th-century
8 miles (13 km) of uninterrupted coastal living. Across the Pacific
sand beach, Huntington Beach is Coast Highway, numerous back-
home to the world’s largest surfing country trails are open to hikers
and mountain bikers.
Surfing off Huntington Beach
Seal Beach
5
Head to this low-key ocean
playground just south of the San
Gabriel River for a taste of small-
town America. On tree-lined Main
Street you’ll find cafés and restau-
rants. Don’t miss walking out on
Seal Beach’s classic 1,865-ft (570-m)
wooden fishing pier. Warm waters
and small to mid-size waves make
it ideal for swimmers and surfers,
while kite surfers flock here for
the consistent breeze.




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130 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area


drawn to the spectacular setting that
THAT WORTHLESS COASTAL LAND is Laguna Beach for over 100 years.
From 1784 to 1846, the governments It is still very much an art town,
of Spain and Mexico awarded vast although skyrocketing real­estate
tracts of land in reward for military prices have recently changed the
service and to encourage settlement. town’s character. You’ll still find
Most of Orange County belonged to quaint cottages with flower­filled
this “rancho” system except for Laguna gardens on side streets, charming
Beach, its rocky coastline deemed
unusable. Nowadays, ocean-front arcades with tiny shops, and a
properties in that useless coastal land gorgeous coastline.
are selling for $30 million (below). Dana Point
8
MAP G6 • Captain Dave’s
Dolphin Safari: www.dolphinsafari.com
Richard Henry Dana wrote in his epic
19th­century book Two Years Before
the Mast that this area was one the
most beautiful spots on this stretch
of coast. Today, Dana Point has a
vague New England look in homage
to its namesake and a harbor busy
with activities, including kayaking,
Balboa Island
6 paddle boarding, and tide pooling.
This coveted piece of OC
Because of its unique offshore
real estate holds one of the most geology, the ocean here boasts one
charming villages of Newport Beach. of the world’s richest marine mam­
Cottages are densely packed on mal environments. Don’t miss a trip
narrow streets bearing the name on Captain Dave’s Dolphin Safari, a
of precious stones. The residents of catamaran excursion taking you up
Balboa Island form a small commu­ close to whales and dolphins.
nity and relish their laid­back
Mission San
lifestyle. Restaurants, galleries, and 9
boutiques line either side of Marine Juan Capistrano
Avenue, Balboa Island’s main MAP H6 • 26801 Ortega Hwy,
shopping street. San Juan Capistrano • www.
missionsjc.com
Laguna Beach
7 The seventh in a chain of 21 Spanish
Maybe it’s for the light – so
missions, this was known as the
similar to that of the south of France “Jewel of the Missions.” Founded in
– or the romantic secluded coves or 1776 by Father (now Saint) Junípero
the way the hillsides tumble down Serra, the Serra Chapel is the state’s
to the sea, where waves break over oldest building. Especially note­
the rocks, that artists have been worthy is its 400­year­old Spanish

















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Coastal Orange County ❮❮ 131


A DAY IN BALBOA

Beacon Bay
Balboa Marine
Island Avenue
Ferry Balboa Island
Newport
Beach Pier
(3 miles)
Newport Fun Zone
BIKE
Balboa Pier
Balboa
Ruby's Diner Peninsula
MORNING
Mission San Juan Capistrano Begin your day on the bridge
leading over to Balboa Island.
retablo, a fine Baroque altar of Stroll down Marine Avenue
handcarved wood overlaid with gold checking out the boutiques and
cafés. A dedicated pedestrian
leaf. The mission gardens are lovely sidewalk wends its way around
places to linger, while exhibi tions the entire circumference of the
in surrounding galleries explore island. To your left is the harbor
aspects of early California life. filled with sailboats, yachts, and
Every March 19, the return of the canopied electric boats. To your
swallows from Argentina launches right the sidewalk is lined with
a fiesta celebration in the mission delightful cottages and gardens.
and town. After half a mile (1 km) is the
Balboa Island Ferry. Operating
Newport Beach
0 since 1919, the ferry carries three
cars, bicyclists, and pedestrians
Few towns can outdo Newport
Beach for making a grandiose first across the harbor to the Balboa
Peninsula. Ride the ferry to the
impression. Mega-yachts tie up side Newport Fun Zone. Take a ride on
by side in its harbor; Rolls-Royce the Ferris Wheel for a great view
dealerships line the Coast Highway, of the harbor. At the Fun Zone
and mansions perch on the hillsides. Boat Company, one 45-minute
Spread out along the coast and into harbor tour passes by the yachts
the hills, Newport Beach consists of and mansions and another goes
out to the harbor entrance, where
several distinct areas, such as the you’ll see sea lions. A good lunch
down-to-earth Balboa Peninsula option is Ruby’s Diner at the end
with a boardwalk that’s popular with of the Balboa Pier.
walkers and cyclists, and European-
style Corona del Mar filled with AFTERNOON
trendy shops and upscale eateries.
After lunch, rent a beach cruiser
Luxury living in Newport Beach bicycle and ride along the 3-mile
(5-km) long board walk between
two piers on the beach side of the
Peninsula. Spend your afternoon
enjoying the friendly beach town.
At the end of the day back on
Marine Avenue, reward yourself
with a chocolate-covered frozen
banana from one of the shops on
the right-hand side of the street.
They’ve been making them there
since 1945.
See map on p128



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132 ❯❯ Los Angeles Area by Area

Art Experiences in
Laguna Beach


First Thursdays
Festival of Arts and
1 5
Art Walk
Pageant of the Masters
MAP G6 • 650 Laguna Canyon Rd www.firstthursdaysartwalk.com
• 949-494-1145 • Jul–Aug • www. On the first Thursday of every month,
foapom.com galleries hold demonstrations,
This festival showcases the art of over receptions, and, often, live music.
140 local artists. In an amphi theater,
Public Art
live models, elaborate sets, and an 6
orchestra re-create famous paintings. Over 65 pieces of public art
are on display throughout town. Be
on the lookout in Heisler Park, the
Coast Highway, or downtown.
Dawson Cole Fine Art
7
MAP G6 • 326 Glenneyre St
• 888-972-5543 • Open 10am–6pm
Mon–Sat, 11am–6pm Sun • www.
dawsoncolefineart.com
Come here to view the exquisite
bronze sculptures of contemporary
figurative artist Richard MacDonald.
Don’t miss the sculpture garden.
Redfern Gallery
8
Sawdust Art Festival stall MAP G6 • 1540 S Coast Hwy
• 949-497-3356 • Open 10am–5pm
Sawdust Art Festival
2 daily • www.redferngallery.com
MAP G6 • 935 Laguna Canyon
American Impressionists with an
Rd • 949-494-3030 • Jun–Aug emphasis on early California plein air
• www.sawdustartfestival.org artists, such as William Wendt and
Laguna Beach artists exhibit original Edgar Payne, are exhibited here.
handmade crafts, and there are
Wyland Gallery
artist demonstrations and live music. 9
MAP G6 • 509 S Coast Hwy
Laguna College of Art
3 • 949-376-8000 • Open 9am–9pm
and Design Gallery
daily • www.wyland.com
MAP G6 • 374 Ocean Ave • 949-376- Marine artist Robert Wyland painted
6000 • Tours: by appt only his first of 100 outdoor whaling walls
• www.lcad.edu just next door. On sale are original
Students from this highly regarded paintings, prints, and sculptures.
art college display their works in a
John Barber
downtown gallery open to the public. 0
Glass Designs
Laguna Art Museum
4 MAP G6 • 21062 Laguna Cyn Rd •
MAP G6 • 307 Cliff Dr
949-494-1464 • Check opening hours
• 949-494-8971 • Open 11am–9pm • www.johnbarberglassdesigns.com
Thu, 11am–5pm Fri–Tue Tucked in a wooded area of Laguna
• www.lagunaartmuseum.org Canyon, the studio and showroom
The focus is on Californian art, with of this master glass blower is a
a vast collection of works from the fantastic glimpse into an artist’s
early 19th century to the present. world. Pieces are quite affordable.
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Coastal Orange County ❮❮ 133

Places to Eat


25 Degrees
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP F5 • 412 Walnut Ave, Hun­
Price categories include a three-course
tington Beach • 714­960­2525 • $$ meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all
unavoidable extra charges including tax.
High-end gourmet burgers are
fashioned to your desire. Choose $ under $25 $$ $25–$50 $$$ $50–$80
from ground sirloin, tuna, turkey, or $$$$ over $80
veggie and go from there. Garlic fries
are a must, as is a spiked milkshake. you can’t go wrong for breakfast,
lunch, or dinner. The outside patio
The Beachcomber Cafe
2 is the place for margaritas.
MAP G6 • 15 Crystal Cove,
Splashes
Newport Coast • 949­376­6900 • $$ 6
Soak in the ocean view with coconut MAP G6 • 1555 S Coast Hwy,
macadamia pancakes for breakfast Laguna Beach • 877­741­5908 • $$$$
or watch the sunset with lobster Situated just off the beach at the
pasta at this prime-location café. Surf & Sand Hotel, Splashes is
elegant yet casual and very romantic.
Mastro’s Ocean Club
3 Breakfasts are excellent but pricey.
MAP F5 • 8112 East Coast Hwy,
Mozambique
Newport Beach • 949­376­6990 • $$$ 7
Romantic and sophisticated, Maestro MAP G6 • 1740 S Coast Hwy
offers steak and seafood cooked • 949­715­7777 • $$$
to perfection. Start with a seafood Gorgeous dining rooms provide the
tower made to order and finish with ambience for excellent Southern
their famous warm butter cake. African dishes. The rooftop hosts the
best happy hour in Laguna Beach.
Zinc Café
4 La Sirena Grill
MAP G6 • 350 Ocean Ave,
MAP G6 • 30862 S Coast Hwy,
Laguna Beach • 949­494­6302 • $$ 8
Claim a table in the outdoor patio Laguna Beach • 949­499­2301 • $
and order your food at the counter A favorite with locals, this is the
at this popular café. Vegetarians will place for fresh, well-prepared
love the choices – everything from Mexican food. Calamari tacos are
potato enchiladas to avocado toast. excellent, as are the veggie enchila-
das. Twenty craft beers are on tap.
Las Brisas
5 Ramos House Café
MAP G6 • 361 Cliff Dr, Laguna
MAP H6 • 31752 Los Rio St, San
Beach • 949­497­5434 • $$ 9
Mexican seafood with a California Juan Capistrano • 949­443­1342 • $$
twist is the main feature here, along In a 19th-century home in the Rios
with its breathtaking coastal views – District, the Ramos House serves a
delicious brunch. The smoked bacon
The patio at Las Brisas scramble and apple cinnamon
beignets are especially tasty.
The Fisherman’s
0
Restaurant & Bar
MAP H7 • 611 Avenida Victoria, San
Clemente • 949­498­6390 • $$
Situated at the base of the town pier,
the most coveted tables overlook the
ocean. Enjoy seafood while watching
the surfers with the sunset beyond.
See map on p128
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Streetsmart















Mural behind the Hollywood Wax
Museum, Hollywood Boulevard















































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Getting To and
Around Los Angeles 136
Practical Information 138
Places to Stay 144
General Index 152
Acknowledgments 159























































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136 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Getting To and Around
Los Angeles


Arriving by Air flights from Vancouver, Getting Around
Canada, and a few cities by Car
Three main airports serve in Mexico. The Disney
the region: Los Angeles Resort Bus leaves from A car is still the best way
International (LAX), here every hour. to get around. Distances
Burbank’s Bob Hope are vast and freeways are
Airport, and Santa Ana/ Arriving by Train challenging. Always allow
Orange County’s John plenty of time, especially
Wayne Airport. Amtrak trains arriving at during the morning and
Nearly 75 airlines serve the historic Union Station evening rush hours when
LAX, making it one of the in Downtown include the gridlock is common.
world’s busiest airports. Coast Starlight from Study all parking
Compared to using other Seattle, the Southwest restriction signs, includ-
major world airports, Chief from Chicago, and ing what’s posted on the
arriving at LAX and the Sunset Limited from meter as you’ll often find
leaving the airport can be Orlando. The Pacific information in different
confusing. When exiting Surfliner service from spots. Parking en force-
baggage claim, color- San Diego to Santa ment is aggressive. Right-
coded signs indicate Barbara also stops here. hand turns are permitted
where you need to wait at red lights unless other-
depending on where you Arriving by Bus wise posted. All major
are going and by what car-rental agencies are
mode of transport. Hotels, Greyhound operates represented in the area.
rental cars, shuttles, a huge network of air-
shared ride vans, buses conditioned coaches all Getting Around
and taxis all have across the US. Bus travel by Bus
differently-colored signs. is inexpensive but slow
Blue signs indicate the and is a suitable option The MTA bus network
LAX bus connection, with only if you’re arriving from covers just about any-
Bus A continuously nearby cities such as San where you want to go in
circling the terminals, Francisco or Las Vegas. LA, if you have the time.
Bus C going to Parking Buses stop at the main For visitors, the most
Lot C and the city bus Greyhound terminal in useful routes are those
terminal, and Bus G to an industrial section of running from Downtown
the Metro Rail Green Line Downtown, an area best to Santa Monica, Beverly
at Aviation/LAX station. avoided after dark. Hills, and Hollywood.
Green signs indicate the Megabus connects with Santa Monica operates
Flyaway Buses, with San Francisco, stopping its own bus network, the
service to Union Station, at Union Station. Big Blue Bus. Especially
Santa Monica, and useful routes for visitors
Hollywood (credit card Arriving by Car are the Rapid #10,
only), as well as hourly between Santa Monica
buses for the Disney Several freeways lead and Downtown, the #3,
Resort and hotels. straight to and through from Santa Monica to the
Near the Pasadena LA, including the I-5, LAX area, and the #1
area, Bob Hope Airport is Hwy 101, and I-405 between Santa Monica
served by seven airlines from the north; the I-10 and Venice Beach.
in two terminals. from the east; and the DASH buses provide a
Metrolink and Amtrak I-5 and I-405 from the frequent service to Union
stop across the street at south. Try to time your Station, Chinatown, Little
a small station. arrival in LA to avoid the Tokyo, the Fashion
John Wayne Airport morning rush-hour traffic District, LA Live, and
has limited international from 6:30am to 9am. the Music Center.






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Getting To and Around Los Angeles ❮❮ 137


Getting Around pass to the card (use any Hills, Santa Monica,
by Light Rail stored value before load­ Hollywood, Downtown,
and Subway ing a pass). TAP Cards are Venice, and Pasadena.
good on all public trans­ Pedestrians have the
MTA operates six rail port in LA County. right of way at crossings.
lines on LA Metro Rail –
the Red Line, the city’s Getting Around DIRECTORY
only subway route, goes by Taxi
from Union Station to ARRIVING BY AIR
Universal City. The Purple Getting around town by Bob Hope Airport
Line parallels this as far taxi can be a pricey ∑ bobhopeairport.com
as Wilshire/Vermont. The proposition unless you’re Disney Resort Bus
Gold Line also goes from traveling as a group or ∑ graylineanaheim.
Union Station to Pasadena are only going a short com/airport_info.cfm
and beyond. The Blue distance. Taxi drivers John Wayne Airport
Line travels from 7th usually won’t respond ∑ ocair.com
Street/Metro Center to being hailed but must Los Angeles
station to Long Beach, be ordered in advance, International (LAX)
and the Expo Line runs to from Checker Cab or ∑ lawa.org
Culver City with an exten­ Yellow Cab. The Uber app ARRIVING BY TRAIN
sion continuing to Santa and other ride­sharing
Monica. The Green Line services are also options. Amtrak
∑ amtrak.com
crosses LA from Norwalk
to El Segundo (Aviation Bicycle ARRIVING BY BUS
Station for LAX), and Greyhound
Redondo Beach. The good news is LA is 1716 E 7th St
mostly flat, while the bad ∑ greyhound.com
Getting Around news is you’re competing Megabus
by Train for road space with lots of ∑ us.megabus.com
cars. LA has nearly 600
Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner miles (965 km) of bike­ GETTING AROUND
travels from Los Angeles ways, which is increasing BY BUS
to Anaheim. Metrolink, a with the growing popular­ Big Blue Bus
regional commuter rail ity of biking. To get across ∑ bigbluebus.com
system also connects LA LA on a bike isn’t practi­ DASH
to Anaheim and stops cal, but along the coast ∑ ladottransit.com/dash
further south in Orange from Santa Monica to
County. Another useful Redondo Beach, and from GETTING AROUND
line goes from Union Long Beach to Newport BY LIGHT RAIL
Station to Burbank and Beach in Orange County, AND SUBWAY
the San Fernando Valley. it is a delightful means of LA Metro Rail
Metrolink trains operate transportation. ∑ metro.net
from the early morning Bicycles can be taken GETTING AROUND
into the evening. on Metro Rail and BY TRAIN
Metrolink. Buses in Santa
Tickets Monica are equipped with Metrolink
∑ metrolinktrains.com
front racks to carry
Standard one­ride bus bicycles. Cyclists under TICKETS
fares are $1.75 with no age 18 must wear a TAP Card
transfers, cash only. If you helmet by law. ∑ taptogo.net
are planning to take public
transportation for more On Foot GETTING AROUND
than a few rides, consider BY TAXI
buying a TAP Card in any With parking at a huge Checker Cab
Metro Rail station or from premium, some LA areas § 800-300-5007
vendors in popular tourist are best seen on foot. Yellow Cab
areas. You can store value Leave the car behind and § 800-200-1085
or add a 1­, 7­, or 30­day take a stroll in Beverly





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138 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Practical Information


Passports and Visas duty free. US citizens may Health
bring in $400 worth of
All visitors to the US must gifts and non-US citizens No vaccinations are
have a valid passport. only $100. Cash over the required for visitors
Citizens of 38 countries value of $10,000 needs to entering the US.
may enter visa free under be declared. Fresh meat, Don’t underestimate the
the Visa Waver Program plants, and products from effects of overdoing it in
for stays of up to 90 days. any endangered species hot, muggy weather. It’s
To use this program you are prohibited. easy to feel exhausted
must have an e-Passport after a day of intensive
embedded with an Travel Safety Advice activity. Although air
electronic chip and apply quality has improved
for eligibility through Visitors can get up-to- dramatically, sensitive
ESTA (Electronic System date travel safety lungs can feel air pol-
for Travel Authorization) information from the lution on certain days,
prior to travel. Everyone US State Department, especially the further
else needs a visa. Upon the UK Foreign and inland you are.
arrival in the US, a Commonwealth Office, Enjoy the brilliant
Customs and Border and the Australian sunshine, but slather on
Protection Officer will Department of Foreign the sunscreen during the
make the final call to Affairs and Trade. day and be sure to take
allow entry. Be prepared a hat whenever you are
to show a return ticket. Travel Insurance outdoors. California has
one of the country’s
Consulates Ensure that you get highest incidences of skin
compre hensive travel cancer, which is no sur-
Consulates within the US, insurance before prise since most people
including those of the UK, travelling either to or pursue outdoor activities
Australia, New Zealand, around the US. Double all year round.
and Canada, are unable to check that this covers Ocean waters are
intervene in legal matters, you for all eventualities, generally clean, except for
but can provide help and such as trip interruptions, three days after a heavy
advice to visiting nationals. lost baggage, cancelled storm. Accumulated and
or delayed flights and untreated runoff from
Customs medical expenses. miles away washes down
Regulations and If you are travelling to storm drains and empties
Immigration the US from abroad, into the ocean, and sewer
always check with your leaks are common. If you
Clearing customs and primary healthcare go swimming at these
immigration at LAX can insurer or provider at times, you can expect
be a lengthy procedure. home to see if you will be to fall sick.
Even transit passengers covered while away. The Dangerous riptides can
must be processed, so American health care occur along the coast; ask
lines can be long. There system can be extremely the life guards about
are staff on hand to direct pricey for those without swimming conditions at
you to the appropriate insurance, so while you the beach. Posted green
line. Automated kiosks won’t be denied medical flags indicate safe
that scan your passport care in an emergency swimming, yellow mean
and take your picture will room, you can expect to caution, and red flags
issue you a slip of paper leave with a large bill. denote hazard ous surf. If
that you need to take to If you are renting a car, you are caught in a
an immigration officer. establish what your auto riptide, let the current
Everyone over the age insurer and credit card carry you down the coast
of 21 is allowed a liter of company covers in case until it dies out, and then
liquor and 200 cigarettes of accident or theft. swim in to shore.






138-143_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 138 20/02/2017 15:18

Practical Information ❮❮ 139


LA tap water is heavily surroundings when using restaurants must have
chlorinated and therefore the ATM and watch your wheelchair access.
not particularly tasty, belongings in crowded Sidewalk curbs are cut
despite being perfectly areas like Venice Beach to facilitate movement,
drinkable. Bottled water or Hollywood Boulevard. hotels have rooms with
is widely available. Free Having personal property extra wide doors, and car­
water served in restau­ stolen is the most likely rental agencies offer
rants is always tap water. crime you may encounter special hand­controlled
Smoking is illegal in LA. Never leave items cars. Buses are equipped
in most public places, visible in your car. with wheelchair lifts and
including airports, post After dark, take care all LA Metro Rail stations
offices, stores and in Venice Beach and some are wheelchair accessible.
theaters, as well as in all areas of Downtown and
restau rants and cafés. Hollywood. Walk away DIRECTORY
Some bars and nightclubs from problems before
have separate outdoor they escalate, especially PASSPORTS
areas for smoking. when leaving bars and AND VISAS
Major drugstores such night clubs. If approached, ESTA
∑ esta.cbp.dhs.gov
as CVS, Longs Drugs, and a polite “sorry, not today”
Rite Aid have full­service is usually enough to be CONSULATES
pharmacies, most of left alone. Australia
which keep late hours 2029 Century Park East,
(some are open 24 hours Lost Property Ste. 3150
a day). If you take pre­ § 310-229-2300
scription drugs, it’s best If you have lost something Canada
to bring your own supply. on a Metro Bus or Rail, 550 South Hope St,
allow about three days 9th floor
Emergency Services for your property to be § 213-346-2700
logged into the Lost and New Zealand
Dial 911 for ambulance, Found system. 2425 Olympic Blvd, Ste.
fire, or police. This toll­ 600E, Santa Monica
free number will be Women Travelers § 310-566-6555
answered by an operator, UK
who will send out the LA is a cosmopolitan city, 2029 Century Park East,
respective emergency and women travelers Ste. 1350
§ 310-789-0031
response service. In a should not have any spe­
serious emergency, cial problems. Gaining TRAVEL SAFETY
medical assistance is admission to trendy night­ ADVICE
available 24 hours a day clubs is much easier for Australia
in hospital emergency women than for men. It is ∑ dfat.gov.au
rooms. Cheaper options always wise to be alert to ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
are urgent care clinics, your surroundings, espe­ UK
which accept patients on cially after dark. Do not ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-
a walk­in basis. Expect to walk on the beach alone advice
pay for services before at night and be careful in US
treatment. Call your parking lots. Take the ∑ travel.state.gov
insurance company for a usual precautions at EMERGENCY
referral to a local doctor. hotels and be aware of SERVICES
your surroundings.
Personal Security Ambulance, Fire, Police
§ 911
Disabled Travelers
Despite a reputation to LOST PROPERTY
the contrary, Los Angeles Los Angeles is a relatively Lost and Found
is a fairly safe city, espe­ accessible place for those 3571 Pasadena Ave
cially in touristy neighbor­ with visual, mobility, or § 323-937-8920
hoods. Of course, hearing impairments. ∑ lostandfound.
common sense applies. By law, all public build­ metro.net
Be aware of your ings, museums, and





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140 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Currency Express cards slightly Postal Services
and Banking less so, especially in
smaller shops. If you are Depending on the branch,
Paper notes come in using a non-US issued post-office hours are
denominations of $1, $5, credit card, make sure 8:30am to 5pm Monday
$10, $20, $50, and $100. the card has a magnetic to Friday, with some
Rare but still in circulation strip on the back, as branches open on
are $2 paper notes. Coins chip-and-pin readers Saturday mornings.
are 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, 50¢, are not always in use. Post offices can be found
and $1. There is a slight Travelers’ checks are throughout the city.
gold cast to $1 coins and quite hard to cash. Stamps are usually
they are slightly larger available from vending
and heavier than a 25¢ Telephone machines in the lobby,
coin. If paying for anything and Internet and signage indicates the
in cash with a merchant, cost of postage for mail
expect to have any paper Coin telephones are hard sent to domestic and
bills larger than a $20 to find in Los Angeles, but international addresses.
scrutinized. Quarters are they still exist at LAX, Stamps can also be found
useful for parking meters, some transit areas, at many supermarkets
buses, laundromats, and hospitals, some hotels and franchised mail
vending machines. and restaurants, and service stores, which also
LAX has international government buildings. provide shipping services.
exchange kiosks, but You can contact Hotel concierges can post
rates are not competitive. emergency services at mail for you.
LA Currency offers good 911 without coins from FedEx and UPS offer
rates and has locations any of these phones. courier services with
in Downtown and in Locals with cell phones guaranteed overnight
Hollywood. Major banks are usually fairly obliging delivery and reliable
handle most transactions, if you need to make a international service.
but bring at least two quick call and ask politely Many of their franchise
forms of ID. Large hotels for help. offices sell packaging
often exchange currency If you carry an unlocked supplies. Much cheaper,
as well, but often offer phone, you can find SIM the US Postal Service
bad rates. cards to fit it with a variety offers overnight service
There are 24-hour of prepaid, no-contract in the continental US
ATMs (Automatic Teller plans at supermarkets and two- and three-day
Machines) all over the and corner stores. service internationally.
city. Look behind your T-Mobile and AT&T stores
ATM or credit card to see also carry SIM cards. If Television, Radio,
which banking network your home is outside the and Newspapers
it’s associated with. ATMs country, the best way to
inside convenience stores communicate is through All major television
or malls charge you for Wi-Fi, using Skype or the networks have affiliate
the privilege, as can your phone app WhatsApp. stations in LA, and there
own bank if you go Free Wi-Fi hotspots are is no shortage of local
outside the network. everywhere: cafés, fast- news stations with
Most major banks are food restaurants, shop- helicopters in the sky to
found throughout Los ping centers, and book- cover the latest police
Angeles. Banking hours stores are common spots chase or red-carpet movie
are usually from 9 or to find them. Public premiere. Educational TV
10am to 6pm Monday libraries usually also have is served by PBS SoCal,
to Friday, with Saturday computer terminals to KLCS, and independent
hours from 9am to 1 use, as do hostels, but KCET. Spanish- and
or 2pm. you must be a guest. Asian-language TV and
Visa and MasterCard Most hotels offer free radio are widely available.
credit and debit cards are Wi-Fi, as does LAX. High- No matter what genre
widely accepted, Diners end hotels usually charge of music or political
Club and American for Internet access. persuasion you prefer,






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Practical Information ❮❮ 141


there is a radio station for Thursday in November) Weather
you. News, traffic reports, and Easter Sunday.
and talk radio shows You shouldn’t have any LA has a moderate
reside on the AM dial. KFI trouble finding 24-hour climate with low humidity
640AM offers local and convenience stores, gas and cool evenings, even
syndicated talk shows, stations, drug stores, and in summer. Rain is most
while KNX 1070AM supermarkets. A few likely from January to
broadcasts 24-hour news. large supermarkets are March. Late spring often
On the FM dial, public open 24 hours as well. presents what locals call
and college radio stations “May gray” and “June
host National Public Time Difference gloom,” when low cloud
Radio-affiliated KCRW cover never seems to end,
89.9FM, with its variety of From the first Sunday in but just as easily you can
eclectic music, in-depth November until the get endless days of sun.
news reporting, and second Sunday in March, Summer is the busiest
interest stories; KUSC Los Angeles operates on time of year, with warm
91.5FM sponsors classical Pacific Standard Time days and cool yet pleasant
music; and KKJZ 89.9FM (PST). For the remaining evenings on the coast.
has one of the region’s months the clock moves Further inland, the
better jazz stations. ahead one hour and temperatures soar,
Surprising for a world becomes Pacific Daylight making any time spent
city, the LA Times is its Time (PDT). outdoors uncomfortable.
only major newspaper. Showers during this time
Cities within Los Angeles Electrical of year are incredibly rare.
County publish their own Appliances
local papers. The free LA DIRECTORY
Weekly is a good source The US uses plugs with
for what’s on. You’ll find two flat blades that some- CURRENCY
restau rant reviews, and times have an additional AND BANKING
movie, theater, and music round ground ing pin. LA Currency
listings. Copies can be While either of these will ∑ lacurrency.com
found throughout the city. fit into an American sock- POSTAL SERVICES
et, those traveling from
Opening Hours abroad will need a plug FedEx
∑ fedex.com
adaptor to use foreign
Most museums are open appliances. It is much be UPS
from 10am to 5pm. easier to buy this before ∑ ups.com
Always check the website you leave as most US Postal Service
or call before making adaptors sold in the US ∑ usps.com
plans, since many close are for Americans travel-
one day out of the week. ing abroad. How ever, if TELEVISION, RADIO,
AND NEWSPAPERS
Stores usually open at you do forget to bring an
10am and close between adaptor, some Best Buy KCET
∑ kcet.org
5 and 6pm. Regular hours stores carry them.
at malls are 10am to 9pm Most modern electronics KLCS
Monday to Saturday and are designed to work on ∑ klcs.org
11am to 7pm Sunday. either the 110 or 220 volt LA Times
Department stores system. In America, the ∑ latimes.com
sometimes open at 7am power is set at 110 volts LA Weekly
for super sales or extend and 220-volt devices will ∑ laweekly.com
their hours during the not work efficiently with- PBS SoCal
holiday season. Malls out a power converter or ∑ pbssocal.org
close only during a few a transformer.
major holidays, such as While most hotels ELECTRICAL
Christmas and New provide hair dryers, these, APPLIANCES
Years; however, some like most small app- Best Buy
stores may be open on liances, are inexpensive to ∑ bestbuy.com
Thanksgiving (the 4th buy at discount stores.




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Visitor Information in daily in­depth tours appeal to the super
run by Laura Massino’s stylish. West 3rd Street
The LA Tourism and Architecture Tours. LA between La Cienega and
Convention Board main­ Conservancy Tours also Fairfax is also lined with
tains a convenient visitor offer outstanding walking unique shops.
center in Hollywood, tours of LA’s architectural For rock­bottom prices
where you can pick up a high lights. Themes try Downtown’s Fashion
wealth of information. In include the Broadway District, but be prepared
addition, the cities of Historic Theatre District, to pick through dizzying
Santa Monica, Beverly Historic Downtown, and amounts of merchandise
Hills, and Pasadena have Art Deco. Tours depart to find quality.
visitors’ bureaus. every Saturday morning. At the other extreme,
Crowd­sourced review Esotouric travels any bou tique on Rodeo
websites are fantastic for through the quirky and Drive in Beverly Hills will
helping you choose from secret side of LA, covering happily dress you like a
the city’s plentiful themes such as Raymond star for the price of a
attractions and restau­ Chandler’s lit erary noir, or small house.
rants. Use these sites retracing the final steps
with care, though, as of LA’s greatest murder Where to Eat
reviews can often be mystery: the Black Dahlia.
unreasonable or even Neon Cruise, put on With endless choices,
fraudulently written. by the Museum of Neon people in LA love to go out
Art, presents nighttime to eat. From trendy res­
Trips and Tours double­decker bus tours taurants presided over by
of LA’s finest examples of god­like celebrity chefs to
StarLine Tours has run neon signs, marquees, food trucks with equally
bus tours in Los Angeles and contemporary art. fabulous fare, LA eateries
and the sur rounding area For those interested offer just about anything
for decades. Tours on the in Hollywood macabre you can desire or imagine.
hop­on, hop­off double­ and paranormal, crime In the better restau­
decker buses stop at scenes, and filming sites rants menus emphasize
some of the city’s most of your favorite horror what’s fresh and seasonal
pop ular locations and you film, Dearly Departed with local sourcing. Don’t
can even opt for a tour Tours will take you there. be shy in asking for the
that passes the homes of availability of gluten­free,
the stars. On board, Shopping lactose­free, non­GMO,
recorded audio provides and allergy­free food;
narration about You can find a mall to everybody does it. Ethnic
everything that you are explore in almost every restaurants are one of
seeing. StarLine also region of LA, each LA’s greater pleasures,
offers transporta tion to featuring an almost with Latin American food
the region’s plentiful identical list of stores. leading the way. Or if you
amusement parks. If you’re in search of a crave anything from
TMZ Tours specializes bargain, the best time Ethiopian to Cambodian
in driving by the hotspots to shop is around the cuisine, a restaurant
of the Sunset Strip, public holi days. somewhere will serve it.
Beverly Hills, Hollywood, Far more interesting are Always reserve and
and wherever else the TV the independent boutiques expect to wait once you
cameras find celebrities scattered throughout the arrive. Many restaurants
to ambush. A popular fea­ city – this is where you’ll subscribe to an online
ture on TMZ buses is a find unusual, ethnic, and booking service such as
monitor that plays a clip vintage items. Santa OpenTable. Unlike
from the TV show of a site Monica’s Montana restaurants in other
before you arrive. Avenue, Main Street, and countries, where you have
The unique architecture 3rd Street Promenade a table for the evening, LA
of LA – especially that of are the best spots. restaurants expect you to
Hollywood, Pasadena, and Abbot Kinney Boulevard vacate the table after a
Downtown – is featured and Melrose Avenue will cer tain amount of time –






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Practical Information ❮❮ 143


you may start to feel the sensible to relocate to DIRECTORY
pressure after you’ve a hotel in its vicinity.
finished your dessert Located in areas of VISITOR
and coffee. interest for visitors, such INFORMATION
Regardless of one’s as Hollywood, Santa Beverly Hills
views on tipping, servers Monica, and Venice, they Visitors’ Bureau
expect at least 15 percent, offer a friendly 9400 Santa Monica Blvd
while 20 percent is the atmosphere and good § 310-248-1015
norm. Large parties will budget tips posted on the ∑ lovebeverlyhills.com
find an 18 percent gratuity bulletin boards. It’s a good LA Tourism and
added to the check. idea to read the reviews Convention Board
All restaurants will on the hostel booking 6801 Hollywood Blvd
welcome children; the sites to see what you are § 323-467-6412
trick is to go early, when likely to get. There are no ∑ discoverlosangeles.
staff have the time to tend tent camping facilities com
to you. If your kids are within an hour’s drive Pasadena Visitors’
adventurous eaters, the of LA. Bureau
ethnic restaurants here 300 E Green St
are especially accommo­ Rates and Booking § 626-795-9311
dating. The best places ∑ visitpasadena.com
for family­friendly restau­ Rare is a hotel with a Santa Monica
rants are Santa Monica standard year­round Convention and
Bay and the Disney posted rate. Factors that Visitors’ Bureau
Resort areas. determine the cost of 2427 Main St
your room are the time of § 310-393-7593
Where to Stay year and whether it’s the ∑ santamonica.com
middle of the week or the
LA is vast and the traffic weekend. Summers and TRIPS AND TOURS
congestion can be bad, so holidays are high season. Dearly Departed Tours
pick a hotel reasonably Generally on a weekend, ∑ dearlydepartedtours.
near the area that you Downtown hotels may be com
intend to spend most time less expensive. Some Esotouric
in to avoid hours on the hotels near the beach will ∑ esotouric.com
road every day. In general, require a minimum two­ LA Conservancy Tours
anything close to the night stay. ∑ laconservancy.org/
ocean will be more Hotel occupancy tax is tours
expensive than similar 14 percent, and Santa
accommodations else­ Monica adds a $2/day city Laura Massino’s
Architecture Tours
where. Always factor in tax. Upscale hotels are ∑ architecturetoursla.
the price of parking, known for charging resort com
which can be $45/night fees and Wi­Fi access. If
in some luxury hotels. you call the hotel directly Neon Cruise
∑ neonmona.org
Bed and breakfasts are and not the cen tral
becoming more common, reserva tion num ber, you StarLine Tours
but they are usually in may be able to nego tiate ∑ starlinetours.com
buildings of charm or his­ some of these fees. TMZ Tours
toric interest and tend to Online booking sites, ∑ tmz.com/tour
be expensive – unlike their such as Booking.com are
counterparts in Europe. useful places to look. WHERE TO EAT
All the usual motel Airbnb is a popular site for OpenTable
chains are represented, private property rentals, ∑ opentable.com
but they may not always which can be a unique –
be in an inspiring location. and cheaper – alterna tive WHERE TO STAY
Parking and Wi­Fi are to hotels and hostels. Airbnb
usually free though. Always read the online ∑ airbnb.com
For those vis iting the reviews carefully, but Booking.com
Disney Resort for multiple remember, these aren’t ∑ booking.com
days, it’s often more always genuine.





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144 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Places to Stay


PRICE CATEGORIES views and deep, marble
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast soaking tubs. Priceless
if included), taxes and extra charges. early­California paintings
grace the walls. Facilities
$ under $150 $$ $150–350 $$$ over $350 include a full­service spa
and large swimming pool.
Bastions of Luxury Hotel Bel-Air
MAP C2 • 701 Stone The Peninsula
Beverly Wilshire Canyon Rd • 310-472- Beverly Hills
MAP J6 • 9500 Wilshire 1211 • dorchester MAP J6 • 9882 S Santa
Blvd • 310-275-5200 • collection.com/en/los- Monica Blvd • 310-551-
www.fourseasons.com angeles/hotel-bel-air 2888 • www.peninsula.
• $$$ • $$$ com • $$$
Overlooking Rodeo Drive, Nestled among 12 acres Antiques and artwork
this dignified 1928 hotel (5 ha) of lush landscaping, grace rooms, suites,
has hosted royalty many 1950s­style Hollywood and villas, all brimming
times and featured promi­ glamour reigns through­ with high­tech features,
nently in the 1990 movie out the guestrooms and including wireless
Pretty Woman. Luxurious suites – think Grace Kelly internet access and
extras include chauf­ and Audrey Hepburn, both satellite TV. A personal
feured car service within of whom were frequent room valet attends to
a radius of 3 miles (5 km). guests. Most rooms have your every need.
garden views, while a few
Casa del Mar feature fireplaces. With Ritz-Carlton
MAP A4 • 1910 Ocean its Spanish Colonial Los Angeles
Way • 310-581-5533 architecture, the feeling MAP S6 • 900 W Olympic
• www.hotelcasadelmar. here is like that of a Blvd • 213-743-8800
com • $$$ private estate. • www.ritzcarlton.com
An imposing presence • $$$
overlooking Santa Monica Hotel Oceana This sleek, modern,
Beach, this 1926 beach MAP C2 • 849 Ocean Ave highly luxurious hotel
club has been restored to • 310-393-0486 • www. is close to the Staples
its original grandeur. The hoteloceanasanta Center, the Microsoft
grand, lavish lobby s monica.com • $$$ Theater, and top
juxtoposed by the cozily One of Santa Monica’s shopping and dining
decorated rooms. prettiest hotels, this has a options. It shares a tower
fun, colorful decor that is with the Marriott at LA
The Four Seasons reminiscent of the French LIVE and has a posh
MAP K5 • 300 S Doheny Riviera. Many of the large rooftop pool and bar
Dr • 310-273-2222 suites offer guests views on the 26th floor.
• www.fourseasons.com of the ocean.
• $$$ Terranea Resort
Enormous floral arrange­ Montage MAP D4 • 6610 Palos
ments welcome guests to Laguna Beach Verdes Dr S • 310-802-
this refined hotel, whose MAP G6 • 30801 S Coast 7433 • www.terranea.
delights include a full­ Hwy, Laguna Beach com • $$$
service spa and free • 949-715-6000 Located on the Palos
limousine rides within a • montagehotels.com/ Verdes Peninsula, with
2­mile (3­km) radius. lagunabeach • $$$ splendid views over the
At the Windows Lounge Atop a 50­ft (15­m) bluff ocean and Catalina Island,
you may find yourself with sweeping views over this eco­friendly resort
sipping cocktails next the Pacific, this luxury, has 400 rooms, suites,
to someone famous. Craftsman­style hotel and bungalows. Guests
Children under 18 stay is utterly gorgeous. All can while away the time
free with parents. guest rooms have ocean at the luxury spa, with 24






144-151_Top_10_Los_Angeles.indd 144 20/02/2017 15:18

Places to Stay ❮❮ 145


treatment rooms, at the period between 1935 and destination in itself. Take
nine-hole golf course, or 1955. No TVs, phones, your breakfast alfresco
enjoying the gastronomic Wi-Fi, or air-conditioning before lounging by the
treats at the restaurant. – just the sounds of the Olympic-sized, heated
surf to lull you to sleep. pool, followed by a
Viceroy L’Ermitage pampering session in the
MAP K5 • 9291 Burton The Georgian Hotel full-service spa. Enjoy
Way • 310-278-3344 MAP A3 • 1415 Ocean afternoon high tea in the
• www.viceroyhotelsand Ave • 310-395-9945 • lobby lounge, then hit
resorts.com/beverlyhills www.georgianhotel.com the tennis courts before
• $$$ • $$ changing for dinner at
Discretion is key at this This 1933 seaside hotel the elegant steakhouse
sophisticated Beverly was an instant hit with the or at the more casual
Hills hideaway with the movie elite seeking to terrace bistro – a perfect
full range of in-room escape the Hollywood day, indeed.
high-tech amenities. heat. Behind the Art Deco
Enjoy panoramic views façade await guest rooms Millennium Biltmore
from the rooftop pool in chocolate colors, most Hotel Los Angeles
flanked by cabanas for with ocean views. MAP U5 • 506 S Grand
extra privacy. Even pets • 213-624-1011 • www.
get the royal treatment. The Hollywood millenniumhotels.com
Roosevelt • $$
Historic Charmers MAP P2 • 7000 A Downtown architectural
Hollywood Blvd • 323- landmark, the Biltmore
Chateau Marmont 466-7000 • www.theholly was LA’s first luxury hotel
MAP M3 • 8221 W Sunset woodroosevelt.com • $$ when it opened in 1923,
Blvd • 323-656-1010 A stone’s throw away hosting presidents,
• www.chateaumarmont. from Hollywood & celebrities, and even The
com • $$ Highland is this famous Beatles, who had to land
Famous recluses such as Hollywood hotel. While their helicopter on the
Greta Garbo holed up in the grand lobby pays rooftop to avoid the
this quirky French castle- homage to the original screaming fans. The site
style hotel, whose policy Spanish-Mediterranean of several Academy
of discretion still ensures decor, most rooms have Awards ceremonies, it’s
steady celebrity bookings. 21st-century amenities. also a popular film loca-
Revel in Hollywood lore in Only the poolside cabanas tion. Opulent interiors
the cottages, bungalows, retain old-fashioned flair. resemble a Spanish
and suites. palace, while guest rooms
Hotel Queen Mary are comfortable. Wi-Fi is
Crystal Cove MAP E4 • 1126 Queens available throughout for
Beach Cottages Hwy • 562-435-3511 • an additional fee.
MAP G6 • Crystal Cove www.queenmary.com • $$
State Park Historic Stay in the roomy Shangri-La Hotel
District, 35 Crystal Cove, quarters of the Queen MAP A3 • 1301 Ocean
Newport Coast • 800- Mary ocean liner, with Ave • 310-394-2791
444-7275 their polished wood and • www.shangrila-hotel.
• www.crystalcovebeach thick carpets to savor the com • $$
cottages.org • $$ romantic ambience of a Dating from 1939, this
Step back in time to a bygone era (see p73). boutique hotel has a
quintessential California modern feel, an outdoor
beach settlement. On the The Langham pool and relaxing spa.
National Register of Huntington Its oceanfront Santa
Historic Places, these 29 MAP E2 • 1401 S Oak Monica location is one
adorable self-catering Knoll Ave • 626-568-3900 of its best features and
cottages have been pain- • www.pasadena. many of the large rooms
stakingly restored and langhamhotels.com • $$ have ocean views. Rates
furnished to retain the A grand old-world style include parking, a small
lifestyle charm of the resort, this hotel is a breakfast, and tea.






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146 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Beverly Hills Hotel is decorated in the retro TVs and radios. Don’t miss
MAP J4 • 9641 Sunset look currently in vogue. the rooftop bar with views
Blvd • 310-276-2251 The rooms have calming of the Hollywood Sign.
• www.beverlyhillshotel. natural tones and it’s
com • $$$ close to some of the city’s The Standard
It is no longer the finest attractions. You can Hollywood
trendiest of LA’s luxury also order room ser vice MAP M3 • 8300 Sunset
hotels, but its exalted and pick a movie from the Blvd • 323-650-9090
place in Hollywood history extensive library. • www.standardhotels.
remains. Drinks in the com • $$
Polo Lounge, tanning by The Grafton This good­value hangout
the poolside, and opulent on Sunset on Sunset Strip has a
comforts of the spa are MAP L3 • 8462 W Sunset wavy retro facade and a
all part of the unforget­ Blvd • 323-654-4600 pool with an intriguing
table experience. • www.graftononsunset. fringe of blue Astroturf.
com • $$ After relaxing by the
Sunset Tower Hotel Standing next to the water, party in the lobby,
MAP M3 • 8358 Sunset Mondrian, the Grafton has which morphs into a
Blvd • 323-654-7100 a more accessible and lounge at night, with
• www.sunsettowerhotel. low­key ambience. The DJ­spun music.
com • $$$ lobby is flanked by the
Once the home of John fashionable Balboa W Los Angeles
Wayne and mobster Lounge and a steakhouse, MAP C2 • 930 Hilgard
Bugsy Siegel, the Sunset and leads to the pool. Ave • 310-208-8765 •
Tower is a striking Art www.wlosangeles.com
Deco tower. The former Maison 140 • $$
apartments are now MAP J6 • 140 Lasky Dr The chic W is full of
luxuriously appointed • 310-281-4000 • www. surprises, such as the
rooms and suites, with maison140.com • $$ “waterfall” entrance steps
reproductions of 1920s An intimate B&B in the and the table games in
period furniture. former villa of silent the lobby. Suites are
movie star Lillian Gish, fully wired for connectivity,
Chic and Hip Hotels Maison 140 cleverly fuses and the Mojo eatery and
French and Asian design lobby bar are weekend
Avalon Hotel accents. Every room is hot spots.
Beverly Hills different, but all feature
MAP K6 • 9400 W patterned wallpaper and Mondrian Hotel
Olympic Blvd • 310-277- European antiques. The MAP M3 • 8440 Sunset
5221 • www.viceroyhotel seductively lit Bar Noir Blvd • 323-650-8999 •
group.com/avalon • $$ is great for a nightcap. www.mondrianhotel.com
This Beverly Hills insti­ Excellent value for money, • $$$
tution has intimately lit considering its proximity The rooms seem like an
cabanas that fringe the to Rodeo Drive. afterthought at New York
curvaceous pool. Rooms hotelier Ian Schrager’s
feature George Nelson Mama Shelter celebrity outpost. The
lamps and Eames­style MAP Q2 • 6500 Selma Ivory on Sunset eatery,
chairs. And don’t forget – Ave, Hollywood • 323- the pool deck, the and hip
Marilyn Monroe once 785-6666 • www. SkyBar provide stylish
lived here. mamashelter.com • $$ hobnobbing territory.
This stylish, offbeat hotel
Élan Hotel is within walking distance The Redbury
MAP L5 • 8435 Beverly of everything in Hollywood. Hollywood
Blvd • 866-203-2212 This is a French­based MAP Q2 • 1717 Vine,
• Disabled access in one chain and the decor is Hollywood • 323-962-
room • www.elanhotel. colorful, whimsical, and 1717 • www.theredbury.
com • $$ fun: you may just find a com • $$$
The lobby and lounge at Darth Vader lamp in your In the heart of Hollywood
this stylish boutique hotel room. iMacs substitute for just a heartbeat away






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Places to Stay ❮❮ 147


from the Capitol Records Boardwalk. Clean but pleasant Marina del Rey
building, The Redbury basic rooms, including hotel right on Mother’s
oozes charm with its some four-bed dorms. Beach. The sand-colored
super cool, vintage rooms have private patios
rock’n’roll feel. All guest Beach House at or balconies.
suites have an operable Hermosa Beach
turntable with a selection MAP A3 • 1300 The Sea Sprite Motel
of vinyl records, a full Strand • 310-374-3001 & Apartments
kitchen, and a spacious • www.beach-house. MAP D4 • 1016 The
bathroom with a rain com/hermosa-beach • $$ Strand • 310-376-6933
shower. Drinks or dinner Within earshot of the • No dis. access • No air
at the rooftop restaurant waves, this casually conditioning • www.
is an absolute must. elegant getaway is the seaspritemotel.com • $$
perfect antidote to stress. Rooms in this Her mosa
Sunset Marquis Just relax in front of the Beach hotel won’t win any
Hotel & Villas crackling fire in your style awards, but with
MAP L3 • 1200 N Alta roomy suites. their location right on the
Loma Rd • 310-657-1333 beach, you probably won’t
• www.sunsetmarquis. Hotel California spend much time inside.
com • $$$ MAP B3 • 1670 Ocean Larger dorms can sleep
This West Hollywood Ave • 310-393-2363 up to six.
hideaway is a favorite with • Dis. access in one suite
rock’n’roll royalty such as • No air conditioning JW Marriott Santa
U2. The on-site recording • www.hotelca.com • $$ Monica Le Merigot
studio is a major draw, This delightful Santa MAP B4 • 1740 Ocean
but so are the luxurious Monica cottage trades Ave • 310-395-9700 •
quarters and the Bar grandness for whimsy. www.marriott.com • $$$
1200 (see p55). Blonde-wood furniture, Centrally located, this
hardwood floors, and Santa Monica hotel has
Viceroy hand-painted surfboards the elegant personality of
MAP B4 • 1819 Ocean doubling as headboards a Mediterranean
Ave • 310-260-7500 add to the breezy feel. mansion. Rooms are
• www.viceroyhotels dressed in sunny, golden
andresorts.com/ Hotel Erwin colors and feature patios,
santamonica • $$$ MAP B5 • 1697 Pacific heavenly beds, and big
The couple behind the Ave • 310-452-1111 • desks. Bold chandeliers
stylish Maison 140 and Dis. access in two rooms light up the Cézanne
Avalon have created a • www.hotelerwin.com restaurant, where you can
fantasy environment that • $$ taste exquisite French
transports guests back in This boutique beach hotel cuisine. Excellent
time to Colonial England. is located close to Venice in-house spa.
The decor mixes kitsch Beach and Santa Monica
and sophistication, with a Pier and gives you easy Malibu Beach Inn
grown-up color palette of access to interesting MAP A2 • 22878 Pacific
gray, bright green, and cafés and stores. Its 119 Coast Hwy • 310-456-
soothing cream. guestrooms come with 6444 • www.malibu
the full range of beachinn.com • $$$
Beach Hotels amenities. The hotel has Enjoy spectacular views
a fitness suite and rates of the coastline from
Cadillac Hotel include breakfast. Malibu’s only luxury
MAP A4 • 8 Dudley Ave beachfront hotel with a
• 310-399-8876 • No air Jamaica Bay Inn red-tiled Mission-style
conditioning • www. MAP B6 • 4175 Admiralty building. All rooms have
thecadillachotel.com • $ Way • 310-823-5333 gas fireplaces and
Charlie Chaplin liked to • No dis. access • www. bal conies, some also
spend summers in this jamaicabayinn.com • $$ feature a Jacuzzi. A free
pink-and-turquoise Art For beachfront on a Continental breakfast
Deco landmark on Venice budget, opt for this buffet is served.
For a key to hotel price categories see p144





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148 ❯❯ Streetsmart


Ritz-Carlton travelers. With just over Regular rooms here are
Marina del Rey 1,000 rooms, it has a full fairly small, but the office
MAP B6 • 4375 Admiralty range of conference suites are well equipped.
Way • 310-823-1700 facilities, with business
• www.ritzcarlton.com and secretarial services. Hilton Checkers
• $$$ All rooms have wireless Hotel
Overlooking the world’s Internet access, and high- MAP U5 • 535 S Grand
largest custom-built speed connection is Ave • 213-624-0000
pleasure boat harbor, available at an extra cost. • www3.hilton.com • $$$
the Ritz-Carlton offers An island of old-world
European elegance and Luxe Hotel sophistication in the fast-
deluxe creature comforts. Sunset Boulevard paced Financial District,
Indulge in global cuisine MAP C2 • 11461 Sunset this 1929 hotel is great
at the stylish restaurant. Blvd • 310-476-6571 for conducting business
• www.luxesunset.com in style. Prepare for your
Shutters on • $$ meetings in fine leather
the Beach A lovely property with chairs at exquisite large
MAP A4 • 1 Pico Blvd lush landscaping, the marble desks.
• 310-458-0030 • www. Luxe is conveniently
shuttersonthebeach.com located right next to JW Marriott Los
• $$$ Freeway 405. The Angeles LA Live
This delightful hotel right spacious rooms are MAP S6 • 900 W Olympic
by the sands of Santa decorated in soothing Blvd • 213-765-8600
Monica takes the beach colors. Business features • www.marriott.com
cottage to new heights. include in-room tablets, • $$$
Relax on fluffy mat tresses, complimentary Wi-Fi, and A short walk to the
feel the cool ocean breeze, secretarial services. LA Convention Center,
or watch the warm Staples Center and LA
California sunlight filter- Orlando Hotel Live, this hotel has
ing in through the shutters. MAP M5 • 8384 W 3rd St everything you need to
• 323-658-6600 • www. conduct business. The
Business Hotels theorlando.com • $$ gorgeous lobby is
Suitable for smaller conducive to work, as are
DoubleTree by gatherings, the trump the 38 meet ing rooms
Hilton Hotel Los card of this European- and the well-equipped
Angeles Downtown style hotel is its location business center. After
MAP W4 • 120 S Los close to the shopping work, relax at the rooftop
Angeles St • 213-629- and nightlife in West pool and unwind with a
1200 • doubletree3. Hollywood and Beverly drink at the bar. The gym
hilton.com • $$ Hills. Rates include a daily is modern and Marriott
This serene Little Tokyo taxi voucher. guests have access to the
hotel offers an exotic Ritz-Carlton spa.
experience, especially if The Westin
staying in the Japanese Bonaventure Hotel Loews Hollywood
rooms, where you sleep & Suites Hotel
on tatami mats. The spa MAP U4 • 404 S Figueroa MAP P2 • 1755 N
and the beautiful third- St • 866-716-8132 Highland Ave • 323-856-
floor Japanese gardens • www.thebonaventure. 1200 • www.loewshotels.
are great for relaxing. com • $$ com/hollywood-hotel
With about 20 eateries, • $$$
Los Angeles a pool, a fitness club, This art-filled high-rise
Airport Marriott shops, and a full business overlooks Hollywood and
MAP D3 • 5855 W center, the landmark Highland. Suites can
Century Blvd • 310-641- Bonaventure has more accommodate small
5700 • www.marriott. facilities than most small meetings. An equipped
com • $$ towns. It is well located, business center, PC
Close to LAX, this chain only 1 mile (1.6 km) from rentals, and secretarial
hotel is great for business the LA Convention Center. services are also on offer.






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