Ultimate Bread by Eric Treuille, Ursula Ferrigno

—USING APPLIANCES— 3 Continue adding the
dry ingredients until
USING A HEAVY-DUTY MIXER the dough pulls away
from the sides of the
1 Dissolve the yeast or make a bowl. Increase the speed
starter, as specified in the recipe, to medium and work the
and place directly in the mixing dough until smooth and
bowl. Use the paddle attachment elastic, about 8–10 minutes.
to mix in half the flour on low If the dough climbs up the
speed, then add the remaining hook, stop the machine,
liquid ingredients to the bowl. push it back down, and
continue. Remove the dough
2 Once the mixture forms into a from the mixing bowl to rise
loose batter, remove the paddle. (see pages 50–51).
Replace it with the dough hook.
Add the remaining dry ingredients The dough will
gradually to the mixer. collect around the
hook as it is kneaded
49
HANDY TIPS

• Use only an electric mixer
with a proper dough hook for
kneading. A mixer with only
paddle and whisk attachments
is not equipped for breadmaking.

• An electric mixer is
particularly helpful for kneading
very stiff doughs as well as
doughs with enrichments and
flavorings added to them.

• Check the recipe for the
dough consistency required.
Add extra water, if needed,
1 tablespoon at a time.

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

RISING & PUNCHING DOWN

THE SPEED OF RISING depends on certain exact effect of temperature can be difficult to
factors, such as temperature and humidity, predict. Rising times become more predictable
as well as on the integral elements of a only after years of experience with the same bread
recipe, such as the type of flour and the method recipes. The novice baker might find it difficult
of leavening (that is, with or without a starter). to tell when the dough has doubled in size; use the
On a warm, humid day, dough should rise more test described in step 3 to help check the progress.
quickly than on a cold, dry one. However, the If the dough over-rises, see page 163 for a remedy.

RISING 1 Place the kneaded dough in a
lightly oiled glass or ceramic bowl
large enough to allow the dough RISING THE DOUGH
to double in size. Metal containers IN THE REFRIGERATOR
should be avoided since they can
conduct heat, causing the dough to This method allows breadmaking to be split
rise too quickly. Cover the bowl with into two stages, and is therefore useful for
a dish towel and let it rise in a cool those with busy schedules. Place the dough
to normal, draft-free room. in a deep glass bowl that will allow it to
expand, brush with oil, and cover tightly
with plastic wrap. To achieve a complete
rise, refrigerate for at least eight hours.
After rising, remove from the refrigerator.
Leave it at room temperature for two
hours before shaping.

2 Allow the dough to rise until doubled
in size. For most doughs, this will take
1–2 hours. Whole-wheat breads and enriched
breads will take longer to rise. The slower
a dough rises, the more chance there is for
it to develop flavor and texture. Do not allow
the dough to over-rise.

Air bubbles will appear
on the surface of a

completely risen dough

50

—RISING & PUNCHING DOWN—

3 To ensure that rising is complete, CHAFING
test the dough by gently pressing
with a fingertip. When rising is FORM THE DOUGH into a ball by
complete, the indentation made will cupping your hands gently around
spring back gradually. If the dough it. Apply a light downward
is under-risen, the indentation will pressure to the sides, while
spring back at once. If the dough simultaneously rotating the dough
is over-risen, the finger will create a continuously in a steady clockwise
permanent mark that will not spring motion. Continue until the dough
back at all (see page 163). is formed into an even round
shape. This action is called chafing.
PUNCHING DOWN Some recipes specify an extended
chafing time at this point.
ONCE THE DOUGH HAS RISEN Otherwise, allow the dough to rest
completely, punch down or deflate for 5 minutes and then proceed
the dough by pressing down with to the shaping step.
your knuckles as demonstrated.
Turn the dough out of the bowl Cup the dough gently
onto a lightly floured work surface. with your hands

51

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

SHAPING & PROOFING

AFTER THE DOUGH IS PUNCHED DOWN and overshaping or excessive reshaping. Apply
has rested, it is ready to be shaped. The pressure evenly and allow the dough to rest if it
techniques on the following six pages begins to resist or tighten. Transfer the shaped loaf
illustrate how to form the basic loaf shapes that to a prepared baking sheet to proof (see page 57).
are most frequently called for in the recipe section. Proofing allows the dough to rise for a final time
Each stage of the shaping process requires careful before baking. Avoid over-proofing the dough;
attention—handle the dough gently and avoid use the recommended test to check the progress.

MAKING A LONG LOAF

1 Flatten the dough with the lightly floured palm of your hand 2 Fold the other half of the dough into the center, so the
to expel any gas bubbles. Keep the dough in a round shape folds overlap along the middle of the loaf. Gently press
by exerting pressure evenly. Take one end of the dough and fold along the seam with the lightly floured palm of your hand to
it into the center. Press gently to seal the fold. seal the two folds.

3 Use the thumbs of both hands to create
an indentation in the center of the dough.
Before bringing the top half toward you, rest your
fingertips along the top of the dough and give a
firm, short push forward. This action tightens the
interior of the dough and gives an even-textured
crumb when the bread is baked.

Press down into the
center of the dough
and fold one half
over the other

52

—SHAPING & PROOFING—

4 Gently press down with the palm of your hand
along the seam to seal the fold. Place the dough
seam side down. Press evenly with the palms of both
hands and roll the dough backward and forward to
achieve the desired length as specified in the recipe.

MAKING A BAGUETTE

TO MAKE A BAGUETTE, shape the dough as for a
long loaf following steps 1–4. With hands placed
at either end of the loaf, continue to gently roll
the dough, backward and forward, moving both
hands outward along the loaf. If the dough resists
or tightens, allow it to rest for 5 minutes. Repeat
the rolling action until an even thickness and the
desired length are achieved.

Roll the dough
while moving hands
outward along the loaf

SHAPING DOUGH FOR A LOAF PAN

Shape the dough as for a long loaf up
to step 3, opposite. Place the dough seam
side down on the work surface. Use the
straightened fingers of both hands to gently
roll the dough backward and forward.
Continue until the dough is the same
length as the pan and is an even thickness.
Lift the dough off the work surface. Tuck
under the ends and place the dough into
the prepared pan, seam side down.

Fold the dough to fit
the length of the pan

53

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

SHAPING A ROUND LOAF

1 Gently press your fingers into the base of the rounded dough
(see page 51) while holding it with both hands, as you would
the steering wheel of a car. Rotate the dough between your cupped
hands. As the dough is turned, exert light pressure with the tips
of your fingers, while tucking the sides of the dough under what
will become the base of the loaf.

2 When the dough becomes smooth and rounded, place the
base of the loaf face down on a lightly floured work surface.
Cup both hands around the dough and rotate it continuously in
a steady, clockwise motion (see Chafing, page 51) until a smooth,
evenly shaped round is formed. Turn the dough over so that the
base is now facing upward and pinch the seam, or “key,” together.
Place the loaf “key” side down on a baking sheet.

54

—SHAPING & PROOFING—

SHAPING AN OVAL LOAF

SHAPE THE DOUGH into a round
loaf, following the directions
given opposite. Place the palms
of your hands on either side
of the round and gently roll the
dough backward and forward,
keeping your hands in the same
position. Continue to roll the
dough until the ends become
slightly tapered and the desired
shape is achieved.

FINISHED SHAPE

ROUND ROLLS KNOTTED ROLLS TWISTED ROLLS

TO SHAPE ROUND ROLLS, divide the dough TO SHAPE KNOTTED ROLLS, divide the TO SHAPE TWISTED ROLLS, divide the dough
into pieces, each the size of a small lemon. dough into pieces, each the size of a small into pieces, each the size of a small lemon.
Press down on the pieces to expel any air lemon. Use the palm of your hand to roll Use the palm of your hand to roll each
bubbles. Cup the palm of your hand over each piece on an unfloured surface to piece on an unfloured surface to form a
each piece and roll it over an unfloured form a rope, 12 inches long and 1⁄2 inch rope, 12 inches long and 1⁄2 inch thick. Twist
surface until it forms a smooth ball. thick. Tie each rope into a knot. two of the ropes around each other.

55

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

SHAPING A RING

1 Shape the dough into a
round (see page 54), then
flatten the top of the dough
with the palm of your hand.
Make a hole in the center
of the dough: place the heel of
your hand in the center of the
dough and press down to
the work surface.

Keep your fingers
straightened and
apply pressure evenly

2 Using both hands, lightly push out
the dough with straightened fingers
and run them around the inside edge
of the hole. Apply pressure evenly to
stretch the hole to 6 inches across.

FINISHED SHAPE

56

—SHAPING & PROOFING—

BRAIDING

1 Divide the dough into three pieces and 2 Continue braiding the ropes until you 3Again, working from the center, braid
roll each one into a 16-inch-long rope. reach the end. Press the ends together the ropes from left to right until you
Line up the ropes at a right angle to the with your fingers and tuck them neatly reach the end. Press the ends together,
edge of the work surface. Start from the under the bottom of the braid. Turn tuck them neatly under the bottom of
center of the ropes and braid toward the shaped dough around so that the the braid to finish. Place the braid on
yourself, working from left to right. unbraided end is now facing you. a baking sheet.

PROOFING

PROOFING IS REFERRED TO as the final rise. Shaped dough Avoid overproofing by testing for doneness; press on the
is left to rise until doubled in size (unless otherwise dough lightly with your fingertip. The shaped dough is
specified in the recipe) on a prepared baking sheet or in ready to bake when it feels spongy rather than firm and
a pan just before baking. Proofing is best done in a warm, the indentation made with your fingertip springs back
draft-free place. In an exceptionally cold kitchen, a low slowly. It is best to put bread in the oven a little early
oven or one heated with just the pilot light is a good (see page 162). Do not let shaped dough spread or deflate:
option. Preheat the oven for baking halfway through the overproofing can cause the dough to collapse when it
proofing time; remove the bread while the oven preheats. is touched or slashed, or when it is placed in a hot oven.

UNPROOFED DOUGH PROOFED DOUGH

57

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

GLAZING

ADDING THE FINISHING TOUCHES to a bread brushed on both before and after baking. When
is usually done after proofing. Glazes can applying a glaze before baking, be careful not to
affect the finished taste and texture of the “glue” the loaf to the rim of the loaf pan or the
crust as well as the appearance. A glaze is applied baking sheet. This not only will make it difficult
either before or after baking, depending on the to remove the loaf from the pan, but can prevent
glaze and the effect desired. Some glazes can be the loaf from expanding fully in the oven.

PREPARING AN EGG WASH 1 A basic egg wash will give a shiny, golden look
to the crust. It can also be used as an “adhesive”
to be applied before any of the toppings described
on pages 60–61. To prepare, beat together 1 egg and
1 tablespoon of water or milk, and a pinch of salt.

Place the shaped dough on a
baking sheet, prepared as
directed by the recipe,
before applying the glaze

2 Use a clean, soft pastry brush to gently apply the
egg wash to the shaped and proofed dough before
baking. For an extra golden sheen, allow the first egg-
wash coating to dry, then apply a second layer of glaze
immediately before baking.

Use a clean, soft pastry
brush to apply the glaze

58

—GLAZING—

TYPES OF GLAZES – BEFORE AND AFTER BAKING

EGG WASH MILK SALTED WATER
For a shiny, golden-brown crust, brush For a golden crust, brush the dough with milk For a light shine and a crisp baked crust, brush
the dough with the egg wash (see opposite) before baking. For a slightly sweeter glaze, the dough with lightly salted water immediately
before baking. dissolve a little sugar in warm milk. before baking.

HONEY OLIVE OIL CORNSTARCH
For a soft, sweet, sticky crust, brush a baked, For both added flavor and shine, brush For a chewy crust, brush the dough with
still-warm bread with honey. Alternatively, the dough with olive oil immediately before a mixture of cornstarch and water that has
try molasses or corn syrup. and after baking. been cooked until translucent and then cooled.

GLAZING AFTER BAKING

Transfer the loaf or rolls to a
wire cooling rack, then apply
the prepared glaze using a soft
pastry brush while the bread
is still warm. Glazes are applied
after baking to add flavor to
the bread and to soften the
texture of the crust.

SOY POWDER AND WATER
Make a vegan version of egg wash by
using a mixture of soy powder and water.

59

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

TOPPING

TOPPINGS OFFER MANY WAYS to finish a add a decorative touch. Toppings can be applied
bread before baking. If a flavoring has been at different times: before proofing, the dough can
used to make the dough, then the loaf may be rolled in the topping; after proofing, the dough
be topped with the same ingredient, providing a must be handled more gently by sprinkling the
clue to the hidden flavor inside. Toppings can topping over the dough or using a strainer to
also be used to complement a bread or simply to create a light dusting.

METHODS OF TOPPING

BEFORE PROOFING AFTER PROOFING BEFORE AND AFTER

SPRINKLE SEEDS or other fine toppings onto SPRINKLE COARSE TOPPINGS like chopped USE A FINE MESH STRAINER to lightly dust
a work surface. Gently press the shaped nuts or grated cheese over the glazed the shaped dough with flour before and
dough into the topping before placing dough (see page 58) after the proofing after proofing. This will give the crust a
it on a prepared baking sheet to proof. stage or immediately before baking. dusty, golden finish.

TYPES OF TOPPINGS – BEFORE AND AFTER BAKING

CRACKED WHEAT BRAN FLAKES ROLLED OATS
For a crunchy crust, gently press the shaped To add texture and fiber, glaze the shaped dough To decorate, glaze the shaped dough with an
dough into a bowl of cracked wheat before with an egg wash (see page 58) and sprinkle egg wash (see page 58) and sprinkle with rolled
placing on a baking sheet to proof. bran flakes over the top after proofing. oats after proofing.

60

—TOPPING—

WHITE FLOUR GRANULATED SUGAR PAPRIKA
To create a dusty, golden finish, sift a light For a sweet, crackly crust, glaze the shaped dough For added spice and color, sprinkle the shaped
dusting of flour over the shaped dough both with an egg wash (see page 58) and sift sugar dough with paprika or another ground spice
before proofing and before baking. lightly over it after proofing. after proofing.

COARSE SALT GRATED CHEESE FINE CORNMEAL
For a salty, crispy crust, glaze the shaped dough For a tangy and chewy crust, glaze the shaped For color and a crisp texture, glaze the shaped
with an egg wash (see page 58) and sprinkle dough with an egg wash (see page 58) and dough with water only (see page 58) and sprinkle
with coarse salt after proofing . sprinkle with grated cheese after proofing. with fine cornmeal after proofing.

POPPY SEEDS PUMPKIN SEEDS FRESH HERBS
For a crunchy texture, glaze the shaped dough Arrange pumpkin seeds over the top for a Use fresh herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, to
with an egg wash (see page 58) and sprinkle with flavorful decoration. Gently press them into add flavor and color. Press them into the shaped
poppy seeds after proofing. the shaped dough before proofing. dough after proofing.

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—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

PREPARING FOR BAKING

SLASHING A LOAF before baking has both a loaf a maximum area of crust. It is best to cut the
functional and a decorative purpose. Cuts slashes using an extremely sharp blade and quick,
made through the surface of the dough firm strokes. If you hesitate as you slash, the
allow the bread to rise and expand as it bakes dough will stick to the blade and tear. The use
without tearing or cracking along the sides or of steam in the oven before or during baking
bottom. The deeper the slashes, the more the produces a moist heat that helps create a glazed,
bread will open when baked, giving the baked crisp crust on the loaf.

SLASHING THE LOAF SLASHING A PAN LOAF

USING A BLADE

A RAZOR-SHARP BLADE is the best tool for making clean, perfect A LONG SLASH, about 1⁄2 inch deep, will allow a pan loaf to rise
slashes. It is worth investing in a scalpel that allows you to safely and open evenly when baked, without breaking open at the
hold the blade. Use decisive strokes to make the slashes clean sides. With a firm, steady hand, plunge the blade into the surface
and crisp. Keep the slashes equal in depth and length. of the dough and draw it quickly along the length of the loaf.

USING SCISSORS

SHARP SCISSORS are a helpful and
effective tool for making decorative
slashes. Hold a pair of scissors
almost horizontally to cut a Baguette
into the Pain d’Epi variation. Cut
about three-quarters of the way
through the dough, leaving about
2 inches between each cut. Gently
place the flaps to alternate sides.

QUICK SNIPS with a pair of
sharp scissors produce a rough,
sculptural cut. This is an effective

alternative to using a scapel.

62

—PREPARING FOR BAKING—

APPLYING STEAM TO THE OVEN

STEAM PLAYS AN IMPORTANT role in many bread recipes, USING ICE CUBES
especially those that require a crisp, crusty exterior. It is
introduced into the oven before and sometimes during
baking. The moisture in the air surrounding the bread
in the oven affects both its texture and its appearance.
Moisture helps soften the crust during the initial stages
of baking. This allows the dough to rise fully and a thin,
crisp crust to form. Moisture also helps caramelize the
natural sugars in the bread, resulting in a rich, golden
brown crust.

USING A SPRAYER

APPLY STEAM WITH A WATER SPRAYER after placing the loaf in APPLY STEAM BY PLACING A WIDE DISH filled with ice cubes on the
the preheated oven. Mist the oven walls eight to ten times, then bottom rack or floor of the oven while the oven preheats. Place
repeat the process after 2 minutes and again after 2 minutes the loaf in the oven before the ice cubes have completely melted.
more. Shut the door rapidly each time to minimize any heat loss When the ice cubes have melted, carefully remove the dish from
from the oven. Be careful to spray only the sides of the oven, the oven. This should occur within the first 15–20 minutes of the
avoiding the oven light, electric bread’s baking time.
heating coils, and oven fan.
USING CERAMIC TILES

LINE THE BOTTOM RACK of the oven with unglazed ceramic tiles,
leaving 2 inches of air space all the way around the tiles and the
oven wall to allow for air circulation. The tiles will produce a steady,
radiating heat as well as help retain a maximum amount of moisture
in the oven. When tiles are used in combination with the applied
steam methods shown, and the bread is baked directly on the tiled
surface, it will form
the crispest crust of
the three methods.

63

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

BAKING

BAKING IS THE CULMINATION of the in the oven to bake; be sure of the exact baking
breadmaking process when all your hard time before beginning; and always use a kitchen
work and patience are rewarded. For timer to keep track of the time. An important
a successful finished loaf, follow these simple key to proficient baking lies in knowing your
guidelines: use a good thermometer to regulate oven and being able to control its temperature
the temperature of the oven; preheat to the closely—each one is slightly different and has its
correct temperature before placing the bread own peculiarities.

BAKING STAGES 1 When the bread is
placed in the hot oven,
the heat turns the moisture GETTING TO KNOW YOUR OVEN
in the dough to steam,
causing the loaf to Since each oven is different, it is difficult to
rise rapidly in the first establish hard-and-fast rules for breadmaking,
20 minutes of baking. such as oven shelf position. The only solution is
The heat then penetrates increased familiarity with your oven. Using an oven
the bread, killing the active thermometer before and during baking allows you
yeast cells and allowing the to observe any variations in temperature and to
exterior crust to form. make adjustments. If you find you have “hot spots”
(uneven heat) in your oven, it is important to turn
the bread halfway through baking.

2 As the exterior crust forms,
the natural sugars in the
dough caramelize, creating a
golden color. The baking time
is specified in each recipe.
High humidity, however, can
sometimes extend the required
baking time and must be taken
into consideration on the day
of baking.

The dough’s natural
sugars caramelize to

give a golden crust

64

TESTING FOR DONENESS

UNDERCOOKING BREAD IS A common mistake of the novice
baker. Bread is indigestible when it has been undercooked, so
it is important to test for doneness. A well-baked bread should
be golden brown, not too pale or too dark in color. The texture
and feel of the bread should be firm to the touch without seeming
hard. The best test, however, is to listen to the sound of the baked
loaf when it is tapped on the underside. It should sound slightly
hollow when it has been properly cooked.

COOLING

IT IS IMPORTANT TO ALLOW a freshly baked
loaf to cool on a wire rack. As the loaf cools,
steam from the middle works its way toward
the crust, causing it to soften. Cooling baked
bread on a wire rack prevents the bottom
crust from becoming damp and soggy.

SLICING

WHEN SLICING BREAD, use a sharp,
serrated bread knife and a clean
bread board. Bread should be
left to cool slightly before slicing.
Use a steady, sawing motion across
the top of the bread to prevent the
weight of the knife from crushing
the loaf or tearing the crust.

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

USING A BREAD MACHINE

THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTION MANUAL making different kinds of bread dough; others
is an invaluable resource for getting the offer fewer alternatives. A recipe booklet comes
best results from your machine. A bread with most models. Master a few of these recipes
machine will mix, knead, rise, and bake the loaf, to familiarize yourself with the way your machine
yet machine models vary in the shape and size works, its possibilities and its limitations. Use the
of loaf they make as well as the way they operate. experience to adapt the recipes in this book
Some machines have programmable cycles for following the general guidelines given below.

1 Add the ingredients to the baking cylinder in the HANDY TIPS
order suggested by the instruction manual. This
will vary, depending on the machine model you have. • Pay attention to the order in which the ingredients are added to the
The manufacturer’s instructions will tell you what type machine—it does make a difference.
of yeast to use. Best results are achieved with a yeast • Keep the lid open to watch the mixing and kneading cycles,
made for bread machines, although instant yeast also but make sure the lid is shut during rising and baking.
works. Place the baking cylinder inside the machine, • Use the handle of a wooden spoon to remove the kneading paddle
select the setting on the control panel, according to from the bottom of the hot finished loaf.
the manual, and press start.
66

2 Check the dough —USING A BREAD MACHINE—
about 10 minutes
into the kneading cycle. USING RECIPES
It should be smooth and FROM THIS BOOK
soft at this stage (right).
If it is too soft, add more Depending on the capacity of your
flour 1 tablespoon at bread machine, many of the basic
a time. If it is stiff, add bread recipes, excluding those
more water 1 tablespoon using a starter (see pages 84–93),
at a time. Ingredients like may be mixed and kneaded by
nuts and dried fruit your bread machine. Most bread
should be added in machines use instant yeast, which
the last few minutes means eliminating the sponge
of the kneading cycle. method from the recipe
instructions. Add the ingredients
3 When the bread in the order suggested by the
is baked, remove manufacturer’s manual, and
it immediately from the select the correct machine settings.
machine and the baking Remove the dough from the
cylinder to prevent a machine after the rising period
soggy crust. Let it cool and before the proofing (final rise)
on a wire rack. and baking cycles begin. Instead,
shape, proof, and bake according
to the recipe.

67

—BASIC TECHNIQUES—

STORING & FREEZING

SOME BREADS ARE BEST EATEN on the day or eggs (see pages 110–125) tend to last longer
of baking, but most home-baked breads than plain breads, and those made with a starter
will keep from several days up to a week. (see pages 84–93) also have a longer shelf life.
As a general rule, storage time depends on the Bread dough can easily be frozen, either before
ingredients used and the size of the loaf. A large, or after rising, which allows greater flexibility
thick loaf will usually dry out more slowly than in the breadmaking schedule. Baked bread also
a small, thin one. Breads enriched with oil, butter, freezes and defrosts successfully.

STORING BAKED BREAD

STORE BREAD only after it has
cooled. Any residual warmth
left in the bread will continue
to give off steam, which will
condense inside the wrapping
or container and cause a stale
texture and rapid molding.
When the bread has completely
cooled, wrap in a clean dry
cloth or bread bag and store at
room temperature. If stored like
this, bread will remain fresh
for 3–4 days. Never refrigerate
bread; it dehydrates the bread
and accelerates staling.

A clean, dry cloth bag
is the best place to store
bread after it has cooled

FRESHENING
STALE BREAD

Spray the bread lightly with
tap water, wrap in foil, and
warm in an oven, 400°F,
for 10 minutes. Microwave
ovens are not recommended
for freshening stale bread;
microwaving tends to dry
out and harden bread.

68

—STORING & FREEZING—

FREEZING UNRISEN DOUGH FREEZING SHAPED DOUGH

WHEN AVAILABLE TIME IS LIMITED, dough can be frozen before WHEN IT IS MORE CONVENIENT, the dough can be frozen after
rising and shaping. Mix and knead the dough as directed in the shaping. Place the shaped dough on a baking sheet and cover
recipe. Brush the inside of a plastic freezer bag with oil and place tightly with plastic wrap. Then place the baking sheet in the freezer
the unrisen dough inside. Expel any air, leaving just enough space and leave just until the dough becomes firm. Store the dough
for the dough to rise slightly as it freezes. To thaw, place the dough in a plastic freezer bag. To thaw, remove the dough from the bag
in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours, until it has doubled in size. and place it in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours, until it has doubled
Remove from the refrigerator and bring the dough to room in size. Remove from the refrigerator and leave at room
temperature. Shape, proof, and bake as directed. temperature for 20 minutes. Bake as directed.

FREEZING BAKED BREAD DEFROSTING BREAD

FRESHLY BAKED BREAD can Defrost bread slowly at a
be frozen successfully after cool room temperature for
it has completely cooled. 3–6 hours, or in the refrigerator
Wrap the bread in heavy- for 8–10 hours. Bread that is
duty foil, then place it in defrosted slowly will retain its
a plastic freezer bag; expel freshness for longer. Defrost
all the air before sealing. bread in its wrapping to prevent
The bread will keep for it from drying out. For breads
up to 3 months. with a thick crust, crisp them
in a low oven before serving.
Use heavy-duty To defrost bread more quickly,
foil to wrap bread place the wrapped loaf in a
preheated oven, 400°F, for
before freezing 45 minutes.

69



RECIPES

M ORE THAN 100 BREADS CAN BE CREATED USING
THIS RECIPE SECTION. EACH ONE IS A VARIATION
ON A VERY SIMPLE THEME: FLOUR, WATER, LEAVEN, AND
TIME. BEGIN WITH THE BASIC AND STARTER BREAD RECIPES,

WHICH UTILIZE METHODS ILLUSTRATED IN THE BASIC
TECHNIQUES. FLAVORED BREADS PROVIDE AN EXTRA TASTE

DIMENSION, WHILE ENRICHED BREADS TRANSFORM BASIC
BREAD DOUGH WITH THE ADDITION OF OIL, BUTTER, AND

EGGS. QUICK, FLAT, AND FESTIVE BREADS OFFER OTHER
DELICIOUS POSSIBILITIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

—RECIPES—

BASIC BREADS

THE RECIPES IN THIS SECTION require no the novice baker the opportunity to experiment,
advanced skills, only your hands, your observe the transformation of the ingredients into
attention, and your time. They represent bread, and gain valuable experience. Later on in
the backbone of the book, by utilizing the skills the recipe section, other elements—such as starters,
covered in the Basic Techniques section. Read flavorings, and enrichments—are added to the
this section (see pages 38–69) first, and you will basic ingredients of flour, water, and yeast. These
be able to tackle all the basic bread recipes with additions introduce the baker to new techniques
ease and confidence. These simple breads give and skills illustrated with the recipes.

PAIN ORDINAIRE
PLAIN OR BASIC WHITE BREAD

Treat this recipe as a INGREDIENTS 3 Pour about half of the To begin
remaining water into the center Sponge method
blueprint for the basic 2 tsp dry yeast of the well. Mix in the flour from Time: 20 minutes
method of breadmaking. 11⁄2 cups water the sides of the well. Stir in the (see page 44)
A wide variety of breads 33⁄4 cups bread flour, sifted reserved water, as needed, to form Rising
can be created using this a firm, moist dough. 11⁄2–2 hours
simple dough recipe. 11⁄2 tsp salt (see pages 50–51)
For a more rustic flavor, Proofing
substitute 1⁄3 cup of 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of 4 Turn the dough out onto a 45 minutesII III
whole-wheat, rye, or the water in a bowl. Let stand for lightly floured work surface. (see page 57)VIII
barley flour for the same 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the Knead until smooth, shiny, and IX X Oven temperature
amount of unbleached flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a elastic, about 10 minutes. IV425ºF
flour. For an extra tender well in the center and pour in the BakingXI XII I
crumb, replace 3⁄4 cup dissolved yeast. 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl
of the water with the and cover with a dish towel. •
same amount of yogurt 2 Use a wooden spoon to draw Let rise until doubled in size, about
or buttermilk and use enough of the flour into the 11⁄2 –2 hours. Punch down, then let VII VI V 45 minutes
it to add to the well dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. rest for 10 minutes. Steam optional
in step 3. Cover the bowl with a dish towel (see page 63)
and let the paste “sponge” until 6 Shape the dough into a long Yield
frothy, loose, and slightly expanded, loaf (see pages 52–53), about 1 loaf
about 20 minutes. 14 inches in length. Place the shaped Yeast alternative
loaf on a floured baking sheet and 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
cover with a dish towel. Proof until (see page 41)
doubled in size, about
45 minutes. CLASSIC PAIN ORDINAIRE

7 Cut five diagonal slashes,
each about 1⁄4 inch deep, across
the top of the loaf (see page 62).
Bake in the preheated oven for
45 minutes, until golden and
hollow sounding when tapped
underneath. Cool on
a wire rack.

72

—BASIC BREADS—

SHAPING A VA R I AT I O N S • Bake for 25 minutes, until hollow HANDY TIPS
COTTAGE LOAF sounding when tapped underneath.
Cottage Loaf Cool on a wire rack. • Use lukewarm water to
Divide the dough into • Make one quantity Pain Ordinaire dissolve the yeast (see page
2⁄3 and 1⁄3. Shape each piece dough up to step 6. Granary Pan Loaf 41). Lukewarm water
into a round loaf (see pages • Shape the bread dough according • Make one quantity Pain Ordinaire should be comfortable to
54–55). Place the small to the instructions (see left). dough up to step 6, replacing the touch, not too hot, but
loaf on top of the large loaf. • Place on a floured baking the bread flour with the same not too cool.
Plunge two fingers into the sheet and cover with a dish towel. amount of granary flour (see page 29)
centers of the stacked loaves Proof until doubled in size, about in step 1. • It is important that the
to join them together. 45 minutes. Preheat the oven • Grease an 8 x 4 x 21⁄2-inch loaf pan dough is soft and not too dry
to 425ºF. with oil. Shape the dough for a loaf before it is kneaded. Add
• Sift a light dusting of flour on the pan (see page 53) and place the more water 1 tablespoon at
top. Bake as directed in step 7. dough in the pan, seam side down. a time, as needed, to achieve
• Cover with a dish towel and proof the consistency indicated in
Petits Pains (Bread Rolls) until the dough is 1⁄2 inch below the the recipe.
• Make one quantity Pain Ordinaire top of the pan, about 30 minutes.
dough up to step 6. • If desired, cut a lengthwise slash • When kneading the
• Divide the bread dough into eight (see page 62) for a split pan loaf. dough, use extra flour
pieces and shape into smooth, round Let the dough rise further until it is sparingly. Work the dough
rolls (see page 55). 1⁄2 inch above the top of the pan. slowly and firmly; it will
• Place on a floured baking sheet Preheat the oven to 425°F. gradually become more
and cover with a dish towel. • Brush the top with water and bake elastic and easier to knead.
Proof until doubled in size, about in the preheated oven for 20 minutes.
30 minutes. Preheat the oven Reduce the oven to 400ºF and bake
to 425ºF. for 15–20 minutes, until hollow
• Sift a dusting of flour on the top. sounding when tapped. Turn out
Use a pair of scissors to snip an “X” onto a wire rack to cool.
in the center of each roll (see page 62).

COTTAGE LOAF GRANARY PAN LOAF

PETITS PAINS

—RECIPES—

COUNTRY OATMEAL BREAD

Sometimes called INGREDIENTS VA R I AT I O N S Rising II III
11⁄2–2 hoursVIII
monastery bread, this 2 tsp dry yeast Barley Bread (see pages 50–51)IX X
coarse, crunchy British • Make one quantity Country IV
bread originated in 11⁄2 cups water Oatmeal Bread dough up to step 6, Proofing
northern England. It is replacing the flours with 2 cups 1 hour
often eaten for breakfast 2 cups whole-wheat flour bread flour, 3⁄4 cup barley flour, and (see page 57)
or an afternoon snack, 1 cup whole-wheat flour. Preheat the
thickly spread with 1 cup bread flour oven to 400°F. Oven temperature
yellow, salted butter and • Brush the loaf lightly with water 400ºF
fragrant honey, or with 11⁄2 cups medium oatmeal and sprinkle with barley flakes.
a chunk of cheddar cheese • Bake in the preheated oven for BakingXI XII I
and a glass of beer. 11⁄2 tsp salt 1 hour, until golden brown and •
hollow sounding when tapped
1 tsp honey underneath. Turn out onto a wire 1 hourVII VI V
rack to cool. Steam optional
rolled oats, for topping (see page 63)
Oatmeal Rolls
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of • Make one quantity Country Yield
the water in a bowl. Let stand for Oatmeal Bread dough up to step 5. 1 loaf
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix • Divide the dough into 16 equal
the flours, oatmeal, and salt in a pieces and shape into smooth, Yeast alternative
large bowl. Make a well in the center round rolls (see page 55). Place the 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
and pour in the dissolved yeast and rolls on two greased baking sheets. (see page 41)
the honey. Cover with a dish towel and
proof until doubled in size, about
2 Pour about half of the 30–45 minutes. Preheat the oven
remaining water into the well. to 400°F.
Mix in the flour, then stir in the • Brush the rolls with water and
reserved water, as needed, to form sprinkle with rolled oats.
a stiff, sticky dough. • Bake in the preheated oven
for 20–30 minutes, until golden
3 Turn the dough out onto a and hollow sounding when
work surface lightly sprinkled tapped underneath. Cool on
with oatmeal. Knead until smooth a wire rack.
and elastic, about 10 minutes.

4 Put the dough in a bowl and
cover with a dish towel. Let
rise until doubled in size, about
11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then
let rest for 10 minutes. Grease an
8 x 4 x 21⁄2-inch loaf pan.

5 Shape the dough for a loaf pan
(see page 53). Place the dough in
the pan, seam side down. Cover with
a dish towel and proof until doubled
in size, about 1 hour.

6 Brush the loaf lightly with water
and sprinkle the rolled oats over
the top. Bake in the preheated oven
for 1 hour, until golden brown and
hollow sounding when tapped
underneath. Turn out onto a wire
rack to cool.

74

—BASIC BREADS—

DAKTYLA

GREEK VILLAGE BREAD

This sesame seed-coated INGREDIENTS 3 Pour about half of the II IIITo begin
remaining water into the well. VIII Sponge method
bread is traditionally 2 tsp dry yeast Mix in the flour. Stir in the reserved Time: 20 minutesIX X
made with “yellow” or water, as needed, to form a firm, (see page 44)IV
“country” flour, a blend 11⁄4 cups water moist dough.
of white and whole-wheat Rising
flour mixed with finely 21⁄2 cups bread flour 4 Turn the dough out onto a 11⁄2 hours
ground cornmeal. lightly floured work surface. (see pages 50–51)
Alternatively, it can 2⁄3 cup whole-wheat flour Knead until smooth, shiny, and
be made with just bread elastic, about 10 minutes. Proofing
flour. In Greece, the 1⁄2 cup fine cornmeal 1 hour
bread is commonly 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl (see page 57)
known as Daktyla, 1 tsp salt and cover with a dish towel.
meaning “fingers,” Let rise until doubled in size, about Oven temperature
because it is broken into 1 tbsp olive oil 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest 425ºF
fingers of bread to eat. for 10 minutes.
1 tbsp honey BakingXI XII I
6 Divide the dough into six equal •
1 tbsp milk, plus extra to glaze pieces. Shape each piece into an
oblong; arrange them in a row, just VII VI V 45 minutes
sesame seeds, to decorate touching, on a floured baking sheet. Steam optional
Cover with a dish towel and proof (see page 63)
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
of the water in a bowl. Let sit Yield
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix 7 Brush the top of the loaf with 1 loaf
the flours, cornmeal, and salt milk and sprinkle with the
thoroughly in a large bowl. Make sesame seeds. Bake in the preheated Yeast alternative
a well in the center and pour in oven for 45 minutes, until hollow 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
the dissolved yeast. sounding when tapped underneath. (see page 41)
Cool on a wire rack.
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw
enough of the flour into the
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste.
Cover the bowl with a dish towel
and let “sponge” until frothy and
risen, 20 minutes. Add the oil,
honey, and milk to the sponge.

75

—RECIPES—

VICTORIAN MILK BREAD

This is a bread with INGREDIENTS and pour in the dissolved yeast. Mix Rising
in the flour. Stir in the reserved milk 11⁄2 hours
a soft crust and crumb 2 tsp dry yeast to form a sticky dough. (see pages 50–51)
that keeps well and
makes crisp, nutty toast. 1 tsp sugar 3 Turn the dough out onto a Proofing
The elegant, S-shaped lightly floured work surface. 1 hour
loaf is easy to make. This 11⁄2 cups lukewarm milk Knead the dough until smooth and (see page 57)
is also a very good dough elastic, about 10 minutes.
for making a decorative 33⁄4 cups bread flour Oven temperature
braid (see page 57). 4 Put the dough in a clean bowl 400ºF
11⁄2 tsp salt and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise for 45 minutes. Punch BakingXI XII I
egg glaze, made with 1 egg and down, cover, and let the dough rise •
1 tbsp milk (see page 58) again until doubled in size, about
45 minutes. VII VI V 45 minutes
II III
5 Grease an 8 x 4 x 21⁄2-inch loaf YieldVIII
pan. Shape the dough into an 1 loafIX X
S-shape (see right). Cover with a IV
dish towel. Proof until the dough is Yeast alternative
1 Sprinkle the yeast and sugar into 1 inch above the top of the pan, 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
1⁄2 cup of milk in a bowl. Let about 1 hour. (see page 41)
stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve.
Stir in half of the remaining milk. SHAPING
THE DOUGH
2 Mix the flour and salt in a large
bowl. Make a well in the center

6 Brush the top of the loaf
with the egg glaze. Bake
in the preheated oven for
45 minutes, until golden and
hollow sounding when tapped
underneath. Turn out onto a
wire rack to cool.

VA R I AT I O N Shape the dough into a long
loaf (see pages 52–53),
Bloomer about 16 inches in length
(see page 16 for illustration) and 31⁄4 inches wide. Turn
• Make one quantity Victorian the shaped dough over at
Milk Bread dough, replacing half each end to form an S-shape.
the milk with water, up to step 4. Place the shaped dough in the
• Let rise for 2 hours. Punch down greased loaf pan. Continue
and let rest for 5 minutes. as directed in step 5.
• Shape into a long loaf, about

10 inches in length
and 5 inches wide (see
pages 52–53). Proof as
directed, about 1 hour.
• Cut five deep slashes
(see page 62) across

the top of the loaf.
Preheat the oven
to 425ºF.
• Sift a fine layer of
flour on the top. Bake
as directed in step 6.

76

—BASIC BREADS—

SCOTS BAPS

Scots Baps are best eaten INGREDIENTS 5 Divide the dough into eight equal II IIIRising
pieces. Shape each piece of dough VIII 1 hour
warm straight from the 3⁄4 cup lukewarm milk into a flat oval, about 1⁄2 inch thick. (see pages 50–51)IX X
oven. They are a special Place on a floured baking sheet. IV
treat at breakfast when 3⁄4 cup water Brush each bap with milk and sift Proofing
filled with grilled bacon a heavy dusting of flour over each. 30–45 minutes
and a fried egg. The 2 tsp dry yeast (see page 57)
mixture of milk and 6 Proof, uncovered, until doubled
water gives the rolls a 1 tsp sugar in size, 30–45 minutes. Oven temperature
tender crumb, and the 400ºF
extra dusting of flour 33⁄4 cups bread flour 7 Sift a heavy dusting of flour
gives them a soft crust. over each bap. Use your thumb BakingXI XII I
11⁄2 tsp salt to make an impression in the center •
of each bap, about 1⁄2 inch deep.
1 tbsp milk, to glaze VII VI V 15–20 minutes
8 Bake in the preheated oven for
1 Combine the milk and water in 15–20 minutes, until risen and Yield
a liquid measuring cup. Sprinkle golden. Cover with a dish towel for 8 baps
the yeast and sugar into 1⁄2 cup of 10 minutes and cool on a wire rack.
the milk and water mixture in a Yeast alternative
separate bowl. Let stand for 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Stir in (see page 41)
half of the remaining milk and
water mixture.

2 Mix the flour and salt in a large VA R I AT I O N
bowl. Make a well in the center
and pour in the dissolved yeast. Kentish Huffkins
Mix in the flour. Stir in the reserved • Make one quantity Scots Baps
milk and water, as needed, to form dough up to step 4.
a sticky dough. • Divide the dough into 12 equal
pieces. Shape each piece of dough
3 Turn the dough out onto a into smooth ball (see page 55).
lightly floured work surface. Place on a floured baking sheet.
Knead the dough until smooth • Use a floured finger to form a
and elastic, about 10 minutes. deep indentation in the center of
each roll. Proof until doubled in
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl size, 30–45 minutes. Preheat the
and cover with a dish towel. oven to 400°F.
Let rise until doubled in size, about • Bake as directed in step 8. Cool
1 hour. Punch down, then let on a wire rack. Fill the indentation
rest for 10 minutes.
with jam and thick cream
to serve.

77

—RECIPES—

BALLYMALOE BROWN BREAD

This no-knead, one-rise INGREDIENTS 4 Use your hands to mix the ProofingII III
batter gently in the bowl for 25–30 minutesVIII
bread was introduced by 31⁄2 tsp dry yeast 1 minute, until it begins to leave the (see page 57)IX X
Doris Grant in her book sides of the bowl clean and forms a IV
Your Daily Bread. This 12⁄3 cups water soft, sticky dough. Oven temperature
recipe is an improved 425ºF
version devised by Myrtle 1 tsp molasses 5 Place the dough in the
Allen, founder of prepared pan and cover with a BakingXI XII I
the now legendary 33⁄4 cups whole-wheat flour dish towel. Proof until the dough •
Ballymaloe House hotel is 1⁄2 inch above the top of the pan,
and cooking school in 2 tsp salt about 25–30 minutes. VII VI V 55 minutes
County Cork, Ireland.
1 Grease an 8 x 4 x 21⁄2-inch loaf 6 Bake in the preheated oven at Yield
pan and warm it in a preheated 425ºF for 30 minutes, then 1 loaf
oven, 250ºF, for 10 minutes. lower the oven to 400ºF and bake
for 15 minutes. Yeast alternative
2 Sprinkle the yeast into 2⁄3 cup 13⁄4 cakes
of the water in a bowl. Let 7 Turn the loaf out of the pan and (0.6oz-sized) yeast
stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. onto a baking sheet. Return the (see page 41)
Add the molasses. Let stand for bread, bottom side up, to the oven.
10 minutes, until frothy. Add the Bake 10 minutes more, until golden
remaining water and stir. and hollow sounding when tapped
underneath. Let cool on a wire rack.
3 Mix the flour and salt in a large
bowl. Make a well in the center
and pour in the dissolved yeast. Stir
in the flour to form a thick batter.

BROA

PORTUGUESE CORN BREAD

This yellow bread INGREDIENTS 3 Turn the dough out onto a Rising II III
lightly floured work surface. 11⁄2 hoursVIII
originated in the province 2 tsp dry yeast Knead the dough until smooth (see pages 50–51)IX X
of Beira Alta in northern and elastic, about 10 minutes. IV
Portugal, but is now 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tbsp lukewarm milk Proofing
found countrywide. 4 Put the dough in a clean bowl 1 hour
The proportion of wheat 3⁄4 cup water and cover with a dish towel. (see page 57)
to cornmeal varies from Let rise until doubled in size, about
bakery to bakery and 11⁄4 cup yellow cornmeal 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest Oven temperature
region to region. for 10 minutes. 400ºF
Broa is a traditional 21⁄4 cups bread flour, sifted
accompaniment to caldo 5 Shape into a round loaf (see BakingXI XII I
verde, the northern 11/2 tsp salt page 54). Place on a baking •
region’s famous kale and sheet sprinkled with cornmeal and
sausage soup. (See page 1 tbsp olive oil cover with a dish towel. Proof until VII VI V 45 minutes
19 for an illustration of doubled in size, about 1 hour. Steam optional
the bread.) 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the milk in (see page 63)
a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; 6 Dust the loaf with cornmeal.
stir with a wooden spoon. Add the Bake in the preheated oven for Yield
water to the milk. Mix the cornmeal, 45 minutes, until golden and hollow 1 loaf
flour, and salt in a large bowl. Make sounding when tapped underneath.
a well in the center and pour in the Cool on a wire rack. Yeast alternative
dissolved yeast and olive oil. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
(see page 41)

2 Mix in the flour to form a firm
and moist, but not sticky dough
that leaves the sides of the bowl.

78

—BASIC BREADS—

BAGUETTE
FRENCH STICK

The name of this long, INGREDIENTS 8 Cut several diagonal slashes To begin
(see page 62) across the top. Sponge method
thin loaf with a crisp, 21⁄2 tsp dry yeast Bake in the preheated oven for Time: 20 minutes
golden crust and light, 11⁄4 cups water 20–25 minutes, until golden and (see page 44)
chewy interior translates 33⁄4 cups bread flour hollow sounding when tapped Rising
literally to “little rod” underneath. Cool on a wire rack. 3 hours
and, in French, also 11⁄2 tsp salt (see pages 50–51)
means a fairy’s wand Proofing
or a conductor’s baton. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 11⁄4 cups of VA R I AT I O N S II III50 minutes
The French say that it the water in a bowl. Let stand for VIII (see page 57)
is always best to buy two 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the Pistolets (Split Rolls) IX X Oven temperature
Baguettes because one is flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a (see page 12 for illustration) IV475ºF
always half eaten by the well in the center and pour in the • Make one quantity Baguette dough BakingXI XII I
time it arrives home. dissolved yeast. up to step 7. Divide the dough into
eight equal pieces and shape each •
BAGUETTE 2 Use a wooden spoon to draw piece into a smooth ball (see page 55).
enough of the flour into the • Sift a dusting of flour over the VII VI V 20–25 minutes
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. dough balls. Use the handle of Steam optional
Cover the bowl with a dish towel a wooden spoon to make a deep (see page 63)
and let “sponge” until frothy and indentation across the center of Yield
risen, 20 minutes. each ball, pressing down through 2 loaves
the dough almost to the work Yeast alternative
3 Mix in the flour and add surface. Place the split rolls well 11⁄4 cakes
the remaining water, as needed, apart on a floured baking sheet. (0.6oz-sized) yeast
1 tablespoon at a time, to form a soft, • Sift a dusting of flour over each (see page 41)
sticky dough. roll to prevent the two halves of the
roll from sticking together during PAIN
4 Turn out onto a lightly floured proofing and baking. D’EPI
work surface. Knead until • Cover with a dish towel and
soft, smooth, and supple, about proof until doubled in size, about
10 minutes. Try to avoid adding 30 minutes. Preheat the oven
extra flour while kneading the dough. to 425°F.
• Bake as directed in step 8.
5 Put the dough in a clean bowl Cool on a wire rack.
and cover with a dish towel. • This roll shape also works well
Let rise until doubled in size, about when made with Pain Ordinaire
11⁄2 hours. dough (see page 72) and Pain de
Campagne dough (see page 84).

6 Punch down, re-cover, and Pain d’Epi
let rise for 45 minutes longer. (“Ear of Wheat”)
Punch down again, re-cover, and • Make one quantity Baguette dough
let rise until doubled in size, about up to step 7. Divide the dough and
45 minutes. shape into two baguettes (see pages
52–53) about 12 inches long.
7 Divide the dough into two Use sharp scissors to cut the loaves,
equal pieces and shape into two as directed on page 62.
baguettes (see pages 52–53), each • Place on a floured baking sheet;
about 12 inches in length. Place on a cover with a dish towel. Proof until
floured baking sheet or in a floured doubled in size, about 50 minutes.
baguette tray (see page 37); cover Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake
with a dish towel. Proof until as directed in step 8.
doubled in size, about 50 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

79

—RECIPES—

GRISSINI TORINESI
ITALIAN BREADSTICKS

These famous Italian INGREDIENTS 4 Shape the dough into an II IIIOven temperature
8 x 12-inch rectangle, 3⁄4 inch VIII 400ºF
breadsticks are served 2 tsp dry yeast thick. Cover with a dish towel; let BakingXI XII IIX X
with an antipasto or an rest for 10 minutes. IV
appetizer. They are easily 1 cup plus 2 tbsp water •
digested, designed not to 5 Lightly oil two baking sheets and
curb the diner’s appetite 1 tsp malt extract sprinkle them with semolina. VII VI V 15–20 minutes
for the rest of the meal. Cut the dough lengthwise into four Steam optional
Coat them with any 33⁄4 cups bread flour, sifted equal pieces, then cut each piece (see page 63)
spice, herb, or seed you lengthwise into ten strips. Stretch Yield
desire: replace the sesame 2 tsp salt each strip until it is 10 inches long. 40 breadsticks
seeds with the topping Place the strips, about 1⁄2 inch apart, Yeast alternative
of your choice, such as 3 tbsp olive oil on the baking sheets. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
coarse sea salt, fresh (see page 41)
rosemary, or dried fennel 2 tbsp semolina 6 Brush the strips with the egg
seeds. For more topping glaze and sprinkle with sesame PICOS
ideas, see pages 60–61. egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk seeds. Bake in the preheated oven
Sprinkle the topping over and 1 tbsp water (see page 58) for 15–20 minutes. Transfer the
the sticks after they have sticks onto a wire rack, then let cool.
been brushed with the sesame seeds, for topping
egg glaze and bake as VA R I AT I O N
directed in step 6. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup
of the water in a bowl. Let stand Picos (Spanish Bread Loops)
for 5 minutes, then add the malt • Make one quantity Grissini Torinesi
extract; stir to dissolve. Mix the dough up to step 4.
flour and the salt in a large bowl. • Divide the dough into two equal
Make a well in the center and pour in pieces. Shape each piece into a
the dissolved yeast and the olive oil. rectangle, about 6 x 8 inches.
Cover with a dish towel, then let
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw rest for 10 minutes. Preheat the
in the flour from the sides. Stir oven to 425ºF.
in the remaining water, as needed, • Cut each rectangle lengthwise into
to form a firm, sticky dough. 16 equal strips, then cut each dough
strip in half to make 64 pieces of
3 Turn the dough out onto dough. Tie each strip in a single
a well-floured work surface. knot (see page 55). Place each knot
Knead the dough until smooth and on a lightly oiled baking sheet.
elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover Brush with water and, if desired,
with a dish towel and let rest for sprinkle with coarse sea salt.
10 minutes. Knead the dough • Bake as directed in step 6.
for 10 minutes more. Cool on a wire rack.

GRISSINI TORINESI TOPPED WITH
FRESH ROSEMARY, COARSE SEA SALT,

AND SESAME SEEDS

80

—BASIC BREADS—

BAGELS

These chewy, ring-shaped INGREDIENTS 5 Cut the dough into eight equal Rising II III
pieces. Shape each piece into a 1 hourVIII
white rolls were once the 2 tsp dry yeast ball (see page 55). Form each ball into (see pages 50–51)IX X
everyday bread of Eastern a ring by inserting a floured finger IV
European Jews, but have 11⁄2 tbsp sugar into the center of each one. Oven temperature
since become equally 425ºF
associated with New 11⁄4 cups water 6 Work the finger in a circle
York City and the classic to stretch and widen the hole. BakingXI XII I
breakfast of bagels and 33⁄4 cups bread flour, Then twirl the ring around the index •
cream cheese. Before plus extra for kneading finger of one hand and the thumb of
baking, the bagels are the other hand until the hole is about VII VI V 20 minutes
poached; this gives them 11⁄2 tsp salt 1⁄3 of the bagel’s diameter. Steam optional
their characteristically (see page 63)
shiny, chewy exterior and 1 Sprinkle the yeast and sugar into 7 Place the bagels on a lightly
dense, tender interior. 1⁄2 cup of the water in a bowl. oiled baking sheet, then cover Yield
Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to with a damp dish towel and let rest 8 bagels
dissolve. Mix the flour and salt in for 10 minutes.
a large bowl. Make a well in the Yeast alternative
center of the flour and pour in the 8 Bring a large pan of water 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
dissolved yeast. to a boil, then reduce the heat (see page 41)
to allow the water to simmer. Use a
2 Pour about half of the perforated skimmer to carefully lower
remaining water into the well. the bagels into the water in batches of
Mix in the flour. Stir in the reserved two to three at a time. Boil according
water, as needed, to form a firm, to the instructions, below.
moist dough.
9 Transfer the drained bagels
3 Turn the dough out onto to a lightly oiled baking sheet.
a well-floured work surface. Bake in the preheated oven for
Knead until smooth and elastic, 20 minutes, until golden. Cool on
about 10 minutes. As you knead a wire rack.
the dough, gradually work in as
much additional flour as you can
comfortably knead – this dough
should be very stiff and firm.

4 Put the dough in a lightly
oiled bowl, turning the dough
to coat, and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about
1 hour. Punch down, then let rest
for 10 minutes.

BOILING THE BAGELS

Boil each batch of
2–3 bagels, uncovered,
until they rise to
the surface, about
1 minute, turning
them once. Remove
the bagels from
the water, using a
perforated skimmer,
and drain.

81

—RECIPES—

SALZBREZELN
PRETZELS

In their native Germany, INGREDIENTS 7 To shape the dough, follow To beginII III
the instructions, below. Place Sponge methodVIII
these twisted ring-shaped 2 tsp dry yeast the pretzels on a lightly floured Time: 20 minutesIX X
and salt-sprinkled breads baking sheet and cover with a dish (see page 44)IV
are traditionally eaten as 11⁄4 cups water towel. Proof until each piece has
a snack with beer, but doubled in size, about 45 minutes. Rising
they make an especially 33⁄4 cups bread flour 11⁄2–2 hours
savory and tasty 8 Brush the egg glaze over (see pages 50–51)
accompaniment to many 11⁄2 tsp salt each pretzel and sprinkle
drinks. There are two with the topping of your choice. Proofing
main sorts of pretzel— egg glaze, made with 1 egg Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes
hard and crisp or light and 1 tbsp water (see page 58) 15–20 minutes, until golden (see page 57)
and chewy. If you prefer brown. Cool on a wire rack.
your pretzel hard and sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or Oven temperature
crisp, omit the final coarse sea salt, for topping VA R I AT I O N 425ºF
rising after the dough
has been shaped. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup Salzstangen BakingXI XII I
of the water in a bowl. Let (Salted Breadsticks) •
stand for 5 minutes; stir to • Make one quantity Salzbrezeln
dissolve. Mix the flour and salt dough up to step 6. VII VI V 15–20 minutes
in a large bowl. Make a well in • Divide the dough into two equal Steam optional
the center and pour in the pieces, then roll each piece into (see page 63)
dissolved yeast. a 12-inch square.
• Using a sharp knife, cut each Yield
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw square in half diagonally, then in 8 pretzels
enough of the flour into the half again to form eight triangles.
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. Starting at the widest end, roll up Yeast alternative
Cover the bowl with a dish towel each triangle tightly like a cigar. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
and let “sponge” until frothy and • Place the rolled sticks on two (see page 41)
risen, about 20 minutes. lightly floured baking sheets and
cover with a dish towel. Proof until
3 Mix in the flour. Stir in the doubled in size, about 40 minutes.
remaining water, as needed, Preheat the oven to 425°F.
to form a stiff, sticky dough. • Continue as directed in step 8.

4 Turn the dough out onto a
lightly floured work surface.
Knead until smooth and elastic,
about 10 minutes.

5 Put the dough in a bowl FORMING THE PRETZELS
and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, Once the dough has been
11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then divided and shaped into
let rest for 10 minutes. strips, pick up the two ends
of each strip to make a loop.
6 Divide the dough into eight Cross the ends over twice
pieces. Shape each piece into and then press them down
a round roll and then into an on either side of the dough
oval (see page 55). Roll each oval loop; repeat these actions
backward and forward with your with each strip of dough.
fingers, along the dough, until it
forms a strip about 16 inches long
and is 1 inch thick in the middle
and 1⁄4 inch at each end.

82



—RECIPES—

SOURDOUGHS & OTHER
BREADS USING STARTERS

ASTARTER ADDS TO THE FLAVOR and the finished loaf. All starters have to be refrigerated
texture of a loaf. It is made from a small after five days and will keep for up to two weeks.
amount of flour, water, and prepared They should be replenished with equal amounts
yeast that is left to ferment at room temperature of flour and water after use. In Italy, a starter, or
(see pages 42–43). The only difference between biga, traditionally ferments for at least 12 hours.
starter breads and basic breads is in the time This produces a bread with a lightly fermented
required to make them. The methods are the flavor, a Champagne-like aroma, and an open,
same. Rustic-style sourdough breads are made porous texture. In France, a starter, or poolish,
with starters that require an initial fermentation traditionally ferments for at least two hours.
of at least 48 hours. This produces a bread with a This shorter fermentation produces a bread with
pleasantly sour aroma, hearty texture, and chewy a less yeasty taste, nutty aroma, and springy texture;
crust. The longer a starter is left to ferment, the it has some of the chewiness of a sourdough loaf
more pronounced these qualities become in the counterbalanced with the lightness of a basic bread.

PAIN DE CAMPAGNE

84

—BREADS USING STARTERS—

PAIN DE CAMPAGNE

F R E N C H C O U N T RY- S T Y L E B R E A D W I T H A S O U R D O U G H S TA RT E R

A classic French loaf, INGREDIENTS 6 Put the dough in a clean bowl To beginII III
and cover with a dish towel. Let StarterVIII
this bread has all the for the starter rise for 2 hours. Punch down; let rest Time: 2–3 daysIX X
signature qualities of for 10 minutes. (see page 43)IV
the popular rustic-style 2 tsp dry yeast
sourdough breads—tangy 7 Shape the dough into a round Rising
flavor, springy texture, 11⁄4 cups water loaf (see page 54). Place on a 2 hours
and chewy crust. French floured baking sheet. Cover with a (see pages 50–51)
bakers traditionally proof 2 cups bread flour dish towel and proof until doubled
the shaped dough in in size, about 11⁄2 hours. Proofing
a basket. The basket for the dough 11⁄2 hours
supports the dough, 8 Dust the loaf with flour. Cut (see page 57)
allowing it to retain its 1 tsp dry yeast three parallel slashes (see page
shape before baking. 62), 1⁄4 inch deep, across the top of Oven temperature
Place the dough in a 1 cup water the loaf, then three more in the 425ºF
basket, about 8 inches opposite direction. Bake in the
in diameter, lined with 1⁄2 cup rye flour preheated oven for 1 hour, until BakingXI XII I
a well-floured dish towel. golden brown and hollow sounding •
Proof as directed in step 7. 21⁄3 cups bread flour when tapped underneath. Cool on
a wire rack. 1 hourVII VI V
11⁄2 tsp salt Steam optional
VA R I AT I O N S (see page 63)
1 To make the starter Sprinkle the
yeast into the water in a large jar. Couronne (Crown or Ring Loaf) Yield
Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to (see page 12 for illustration) 1 loaf
dissolve. Stir in the flour using a
wooden spoon. Cover the jar with a • Make one quantity Pain de Yeast alternative
dish towel and let ferment at room Campagne dough up to step 7. For the starter:
temperature for at least 2 days or, at • Shape the dough into a ring shape 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
most, 3 days. Stir the mixture twice (see page 56). For the dough:
a day; it will be bubbly and • Cover the loaf with a dish towel 1⁄8 cake (0.6oz-sized)
pleasantly sour-smelling. and proof until doubled in size, yeast (see page 41)
about 11⁄2 hours. Preheat the oven
PROOFING IN A BASKET 2 To make the dough Sprinkle the to 425ºF. MAINTAINING
yeast into the water in a small • Bake for 45 minutes, until hollow THE STARTER
bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to sounding when tapped underneath.
dissolve. Mix the flours and the salt Cool on a wire rack. Place the remaining
together in a large bowl and make starter in the jar and
a well in the center. Pain Tordu replenish it with an
(see page 13 for illustration) equal amount of flour
3 Spoon 1 cup of the starter into • Make one quantity Pain de and water. If you
a liquid measuring cup. Add Campagne dough up to step 7. remove 1 cup of
it to the flour well and pour in • Shape the dough into a cylinder, starter to make this
the dissolved yeast. Reserve and 14 inches long. With the handle of recipe, add 1⁄2 cup
replenish the remaining starter (see a wooden spoon, make an water and 1 cup
indentation down the center. flour to the jar. This
far right) in the same jar for the • Twist the dough as if wringing out will allow you to keep
next time you make bread. a cloth. Place it on a floured baking the sourdough starter
sheet, dust with flour, and proof. fermenting for the
4 Mix in the flour from the Preheat the oven to 425°F. next time you make
sides of the well to form • Bake for 1 hour, until hollow bread. Refer to
a stiff, sticky dough. Add more sounding when tapped underneath. page 43 for more
water, 1 tablespoon at a time, Cool on a wire rack. detailed instructions.
if the mixture is too dry.

5 Turn the dough out onto a
lightly floured work surface.
Knead until smooth and elastic,
about 10 minutes.

85

—RECIPES—

SAN FRANCISCO SOURDOUGH

During the American INGREDIENTS 6 Put the dough in a clean bowl To beginII III
and cover with a dish towel. StarterVIII
gold rush, prospectors for the starter Let rise until doubled in size, about IX X Time: 3–5 days
often carried a mixture 2 hours. Punch down, then let rest IV(see page 43)
of flour and water in a 3 tsp dry yeast for 10 minutes.
package strapped to their “Old” dough
waists. The heat from 2 cups water 7 Pinch off a 21⁄2 oz piece Time: 31⁄2 hours
their bodies fermented of the dough for your next (to make ahead,
the mixture and created 23⁄4 cups bread flour, sifted breadmaking. Wrap the piece of see page 43)
a natural leaven. This dough loosely in waxed paper and
gave them the nickname for the dough foil, and refrigerate or freeze the Rising
“sourbellies.” This dough until the next time you make 2 hours
tradition of sourdough 11⁄4 cups bread flour bread (see page 43). (see pages 50–51)
baking has continued.
San Franciscans claim 2⁄3 cup whole-wheat flour 8 Shape the remaining dough into Proofing
that their city is the a round loaf (see page 54). Place 11⁄2 hours
sourdough capital of 2 tsp salt on a floured baking sheet. Cover with (see page 57)
North America. a dish towel and proof until doubled
If you wish to maintain 21⁄2-inch ball “old” dough in size, about 11⁄2 hours. Oven temperature
the starter, follow the (one piece from recipe below) 425ºF
instructions on page 85. 9 Cut three parallel slashes (see
(See page 20 for an 1 To make the starter Sprinkle yeast page 62), about 1⁄4 inch deep, BakingXI XII I
illustration of the bread.) into the water in a large jar. Let across the top of the loaf, then three •
stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. more slashes in the opposite direction
“OLD” to make a crisscross pattern. Dust 1 hourVII VI V
DOUGH 2 Stir the flour into the jar of with flour and bake in the preheated Steam optional
dissolved yeast using a wooden oven for 1 hour, until golden and (see page 63)
spoon. Cover with a dish towel and hollow sounding when tapped
ferment at room temperature for at underneath. Let cool on a wire rack. Yield
least 3 days and at most 5 days 1 loaf
before refrigerating. Stir the mixture
twice a day; it will be bubbly and Yeast alternative
pleasantly sour-smelling. For the starter:
11⁄2 cakes
3 To make the dough Mix the (0.6oz-sized) yeast
flours and salt in a large bowl. (see page 41)
Make a well in the center. Spoon
2 cups of the starter into a liquid RECIPE FOR “OLD” DOUGH
measuring cup. Replenish the INGREDIENTS
remaining starter for the next time
you make bread (see page 85). Tear 1⁄2 tsp dry yeast or 1⁄8 of a cake (0.6oz-sized) yeast
the “old” dough into tiny pieces,
then add the starter and the “old” 4 tbsp lukewarm water
dough pieces to the flour well.
3⁄4 cup bread flour
4 Mix in the flour to form a firm
but moist dough. Add more 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water in a large bowl. Let stand
water as needed, 1 tablespoon for 5 minutes, then stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve.
at a time, if the dough
is too dry. 2 Mix the flour into the dissolved yeast to form a stiff, sticky
dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface.
5 Turn the Knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
dough out
onto a lightly 3 Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a dish
floured work towel. Let rise for 3 hours. Punch down. Divide the dough into
surface. Knead until two equal pieces. Wrap one piece for future use and add the
smooth and elastic, other piece to the flour well in step 3 of the recipe.
about 10 minutes.
4 “Old” dough can be prepared in advance and frozen
(see page 43) or refrigerated. Wrap loosely in waxed paper and
foil, allowing room for the dough to expand slightly. Defrost
or remove from the refrigerator 11⁄2 hours before use.

86

—BREADS USING STARTERS—

PANE DI SEMOLA

SEMOLINA BREAD

This open-textured bread INGREDIENTS 3 Mix in the flour. Pour in the II IIITo begin
remaining water, as needed, to VIII Starter
comes from Puglia, a for the starter form a soft, sticky dough. Time: 12–24 hoursIX X
region of southern Italy, 1⁄4 tsp dry yeast (see page 42)IV
and is commonly known 4 Turn the dough out onto a
as Pugliese. Its open 2⁄3 cup water lightly floured work surface. Rising
texture is good for Knead the dough until smooth and 11⁄2–2 hours
absorbing oil – making it 1 cup bread flour elastic, about 10 minutes. (see pages 50–51)
especially popular to use for the dough
for Bruschetta (see page 11⁄2 tsp dry yeast 5 Put the dough in a clean, Proofing
156). Fields of semolina lightly oiled bowl. Let rise until 11⁄2 hours
grow profusely in 3⁄4 cup water doubled in size, about 11⁄2–2 hours. (see page 57)
the scorching sun of the Punch down the dough and chafe
region. The semolina flour 1 cup bread flour for 5 minutes (see page 51), then Oven temperature
gives this bread a let rest for 10 minutes. 400ºF
distinctive golden 12⁄3 cups semolina or durum wheat flour,
color and a crisp crust. plus extra to dust 6 Divide the dough into two pieces. BakingXI XII I
Shape each piece into a round •
2 tsp salt loaf (see page 54). Place the loaves
on an oiled baking sheet dusted with VII VI V 30 minutes
2 tbsp olive oil semolina flour. Steam optional
(see page 63)
1 To make the starter Sprinkle 7 Flatten each loaf with the palm
the yeast into the water in a of your hand and sprinkle with Yield
bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to semolina flour. Cover with a dish 2 loaves
dissolve. Add the flour and mix towel and proof until both loaves
to form a thick batter. Cover with are doubled in size, about 11⁄2 hours. Yeast alternative
a dish towel and let ferment at For the starter:
room temperature for 12–24 hours. 8 Bake in the preheated oven 1⁄8 of a cake
for 30 minutes, until lightly (0.6oz-sized) yeast
2 To make the dough Sprinkle golden and hollow sounding when For the dough:
the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of the tapped underneath. 3⁄4 of a cake
water in a small bowl. Let stand for Cool on a (0.6oz-sized) yeast
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the wire rack. (see page 41)
flours and salt in a large
bowl. Make a well in the center
and pour in the dissolved yeast,
the oil, and the starter.

87

—RECIPES—

PANE DI PRATO

T R A D I T I O N A L S A LT L E S S T U S C A N B R E A D

This typical Tuscan INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto II IIITo begin
a well-floured work surface. VIII Starter
bread, also known as for the starter Use floured hands and a plastic Time: 12 hoursIX X
Pane Toscano, is made dough scraper to knead the dough (see page 42)IV
without salt. The absence 31⁄2 tsp dry yeast until smooth and elastic, about
of salt has a historical 10 minutes (see below, right). Work Rising
explanation. During the 2⁄3 cup water in additional flour only if necessary 40 minutes
Middle Ages, Tuscany’s to achieve a manageable, but still (see pages 50–51)
neighboring provinces 1 cup plus 2 tbsp bread flour very moist dough.
controlled the Italian salt Proofing
market, levying a heavy for the dough 5 Divide the dough into two 15–20 minutes
salt tax. Unwilling to equal pieces. Handle the dough (see page 57)
submit to their rivals, 2 3⁄4 cups bread flour carefully so as not to deflate it.
the Tuscans created breads Shape each piece into an oval loaf Oven temperature
made without salt. Such 11⁄4 cups water (see page 55). Place on an oiled 375ºF
breads have a yeasty baking sheet and cover with a dish
flavor, but quickly become 1 To make the starter Sprinkle towel. Proof until doubled in size, BakingXI XII I
stale. Tuscan cooks have the yeast into the water in a bowl. about 15–20 minutes. •
developed a tradition of Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to
dishes using stale bread dissolve. Add the flour and mix to 6 Strain a light dusting of flour VII VI V 35 minutes
(see pages 156–161). form a thick paste. Cover with a dish over the two loaves. Bake in Steam optional
towel and let ferment at room the preheated oven for 35 minutes, (see page 63)
temperature for at least 12 hours. until lightly golden and hollow
sounding when tapped underneath. Yield
2 To make the dough Put the Cool on a wire rack. 2 small loaves
flour in a large bowl. Make
a well in the center of the flour and Yeast alternative
add the starter. Pour in about half For the starter:
of the water. Mix in the flour from 13⁄4 cakes
the sides of the well, then stir in the (0.6oz-sized) yeast
reserved water to form a wet, (see page 41)
batterlike dough.
KNEADING A
3 Cover the bowl with a dish towel WET DOUGH
and let rise until doubled in size,
about 40 minutes.

A well-floured work surface
and hands are necessary
when kneading a wet,
batterlike dough. Handle
the dough with slow, gentle
movements. Use a plastic
dough scraper to carefully
push and turn it. After
kneading, the dough should
still be soft and pliable.

88

—BREADS USING STARTERS—

PANE CASALINGO
ITALIAN “HOUSEHOLD” BREAD

In Italy, casalingo INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto a To beginII III
well-floured work surface. StarterVIII
describes the very best for the starter Knead for 5 minutes. Cover with a IX X Time: 12 hours
of family cooking, passed dish towel, let rest for 10 minutes, IV(see page 42)
down from one 11⁄4 tsp dry yeast then knead for 5 minutes longer.
generation to the next. Rising
Pane Casalingo literally 1⁄4 cup water 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl 2 hours
means “home-baked and cover with a dish towel. (see pages 50–51)
bread” and one that is 1⁄2 cup lukewarm milk Let rise until tripled in size, about
never found in bakeries. 2 hours. Punch down and chafe for Proofing
It is common all over 1 tsp malt extract 5 minutes (see page 51), then let rest 11⁄2 hours
Italy, from north to south, for 10 minutes. (see page 57)
which is very unusual in 11⁄2 cups bread flour
the fiercely proud regional 6 Shape the dough into a round Oven temperature
cooking of Italy. We like for the dough loaf (see page 54). Place on an 400ºF
to think of it as a bread oiled baking sheet. Cover with a dish
without boundaries. The 11⁄4 tsp dry yeast towel and proof until doubled in size, BakingXI XII I
starter is uniquely made about 11⁄2 hours. •
with malt and milk. This 3⁄4 cup plus 2 tbsp water
combination speeds up the 7 Dust with flour. Cut three VII VI V 50 minutes
fermentation of the yeast, 21⁄4 cups bread flour parallel slashes (see page 62), Steam optional
which gives the bread a 1⁄4 inch deep, across the top of the (see page 63)
slightly yeasty flavor. 2 tsp salt loaf, then three more in the opposite
direction to make a crisscross Yield
1 To make the starter Sprinkle the pattern. Bake in the preheated oven 1 loaf
yeast into the water and milk in a for 50 minutes, until hollow
bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes, then sounding when tapped underneath. Yeast alternative
add the malt extract and stir to Cool on a wire rack. For the starter:
dissolve. Add the flour and mix to 3⁄4 of a cake
form a thick paste. Cover with a dish (0.6oz-sized) yeast
towel and let ferment for 12 hours. For the dough:
3⁄4 of a cake
2 To make the dough Sprinkle the (0.6oz-sized) yeast
yeast into 1⁄2 cup of the water in (see page 41)
a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir
to dissolve. Mix the flour and the
salt in a large bowl. Make a well in
the center and add the dissolved
yeast and the starter.

3 Pour half of the remaining
water into the well. Mix in
the flour. Stir in the reserved
water, as needed, to form
a soft dough.

89

—RECIPES—

C I A B AT TA

ITALIAN “SLIPPER” BREAD

Ciabatta was given its INGREDIENTS 6 Use a dough scraper to divide II IIITo begin
the dough in half while in the VIII Starter
name because the bread for the starter bowl. Scoop half the dough out Time: 12 hoursIX X
resembles a well-worn 1⁄2 tsp dry yeast of the bowl onto one of the heavily or overnightIV
slipper. It is the prolonged floured baking sheets. (see page 42)
rising and high liquid 2⁄3 cup water
content that produce this 7 Use well-floured hands to pull Rising
very light bread, with its 3 tbsp milk and stretch the dough to form 3 hours
uniquely open and porous a roughly rectangular loaf, about (see pages 50–51)
texture. An authentic 1⁄4 tsp honey or sugar 12 inches long. Dust the loaf and
Ciabatta requires a very your hands again with flour. Proofing
wet dough that can be 1 cup plus 2 tbsp bread flour Neaten and plump up the loaf by 20 minutes
tricky to handle and for the dough running your fingers down each side (see page 57)
must be started a day 1⁄2 tsp dry yeast and gently tucking under the edges
in advance. Do not be of the dough (see below). Oven temperature
tempted to add extra 1 cup water 425ºF
flour to make the dough 8 Repeat step 7 with the other
more manageable, and 1⁄2 tbsp olive oil half of the dough. Leave the BakingXI XII I
avoid overhandling the two loaves uncovered to proof for •
dough at all costs. After 21⁄2 cups bread flour about 20 minutes; the loaves will
its long rise, the dough spread out as well as rise. VII VI V 30 minutes
must be handled with a 11⁄2 tsp salt Steam optional
very light touch (“like 9 Bake in the preheated oven for (see page 63)
a baby,” as they say in 1 To make the starter Sprinkle the 30 minutes, until risen, golden,
Italy), so that all the yeast into the water and milk and hollow sounding when tapped Yield
precious air bubbles in a large bowl. Let stand for underneath. Cool on a wire rack. 2 loaves
are not broken. 5 minutes, then add the honey or
sugar and stir to dissolve. Yeast alternative
For the starter:
2 Mix in the flour to form a 1⁄8 of a cake
loose batter. Cover the bowl (0.6oz-sized) yeast
with a dish towel and let rise for For the dough:
12 hours or overnight. 1⁄8 of a cake
(0.6oz-sized) yeast
3 To make the dough Sprinkle (see page 41)
the yeast into the water in
a small bowl. Let stand for
5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.
Add the dissolved yeast and olive
oil to the starter and mix well.

4 Mix in the flour and salt to SHAPING CIABATTA
form a wet, sticky dough. Beat
steadily with a wooden spoon for Use well-floured hands
5 minutes; the dough will become to neaten and plump up
springy and start to pull away from the loaf by running your
the sides of the bowl, but will fingers down each side and
remain too soft to knead. gently tucking under the
edges of the dough.
5 Cover the dough with a dish
towel. Let rise until tripled in
size and full of air bubbles, about
3 hours. Do not punch down the
dough. Generously flour two baking
sheets and have ready extra flour
to dip your hands in.

90



—RECIPES—

LANDBROT

G E R M A N C O U N T RY- S T Y L E RY E B R E A D

Rye is the most INGREDIENTS 6 Shape the dough into a round To begin
loaf (see page 54). Place on a Starter
important of all grain for the starter floured baking sheet. Dust with flour. Time: 12–18 hours
crops in Germany, and 1⁄2 tsp dry yeast Cut one slash, 1⁄2 inch deep, across (see page 42)
German bakers are the the top of the loaf, then another in
undisputed masters 3 tbsp water the opposite direction to make an Sponge method
of rye breads. Landbrot “X” (see page 62). Time: 12–18 hours
translates literally as 1⁄3 cup bread flour (see page 44)
“bread of the land,” 7 Cover with a dish towel and
and it is the German 1 tbsp milk proof until doubled in size, Proofing
equivalent of Pain de for the dough about 11⁄2 hours. 11⁄2 hours
Campagne. It is baked 11⁄2 tsp dry yeast (see page 57)
throughout Germany, 8 Bake in the preheated oven for
and although there are 11⁄2 cups water 11⁄4 hours, until hollow sounding Oven temperature
regional differences in when tapped. Cool on a wire rack. 400ºF
color and texture, because 31⁄2 cups rye flour
the proportions of rye to VA R I AT I O N S BakingXI XII I
wheat vary, it is usually 3⁄4 cup bread flour II III
dusted with flour. (See Seeded German Rye Bread VIII
page 18 for an illustration 2 tsp salt • Combine 2 tablespoons each IX X•
of the bread.) flaxseeds, sesame seeds, and pumpkin IV
1 To make the starter Sprinkle the seeds in a food processor. Using the 1 ⁄ hoursVII VI V 14
yeast into the water in a bowl. pulse button, process until roughly
Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to chopped. Alternatively, grind by hand Steam optional
dissolve. Mix in the flour and milk. using a mortar and pestle.
Cover with a dish towel and ferment • Make one quantity Landbrot dough (see page 63)
at room temperature for 12–18 up to step 4.
hours. The mixture will be bubbly • Add the seed mixture with the salt Yield
and pleasantly sour-smelling. to the fermented batter. Continue as 1 loaf
directed in steps 4–5.
2 To make the dough Sprinkle the • Shape the dough for a greased Yeast alternative
yeast into 1 cup of the water in 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan (see page 53). For the starter:
a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir • Proof as directed in step 7. 3⁄4 of a cake
to dissolve. Mix the flours in a large Preheat the oven to 400°F. (0.6oz-sized) yeast
bowl. Make a well in the center and • Brush with milk and sprinkle with For the dough:
add the dissolved yeast and starter. whole flaxseeds, sesame seeds, and 1⁄8 of a cake
pumpkin seeds. (0.6oz-sized) yeast
• Bake as directed in step 8. (see page 41)

3 Use a wooden spoon to draw Rye Bread with Caraway Seeds
enough of the flour into the • Make one quantity Landbrot
starter mixture to form a thick dough, adding 1⁄2 teaspoon caraway
batter. Cover the bowl with a dish seeds to the starter in step 1.
towel and let “sponge” until frothy • Shape the dough for a greased
and risen, 12–18 hours. 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan (see page 53).
• Proof as directed in step 7.
4 Add the salt to the fermented Preheat the oven to 400°F.
batter. Mix in the flour. Stir in • Brush with milk and sprinkle
the reserved water, as needed, to form 2 tablespoons rye flakes on the top.
a stiff, sticky dough. • Bake as directed in step 8.

5 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured work surface. Knead
until smooth and elastic, about 10
minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes.

92

—BREADS USING STARTERS—

PAIN DE SEIGLE
FRENCH RYE BREAD

In France, rye bread INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto a II IIITo begin
lightly floured work surface. VIII Starter
originated in mountainous for the starter Knead the dough until smooth and IX X Time: 2 hours
regions, such as the Alps, 2 tsp dry yeast elastic, about 10 minutes. IV(see page 42)
the Pyrenees, and Vosges,
where it was a staple, 2⁄3 cup water 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl Rising
everyday bread. Today, and cover with a dish towel. 1 hour
rye bread is eaten more 1 cup bread flour Let rise until doubled in size, about (see pages 50–51)
infrequently, but it is for the dough 1 hour. Punch down, then let rest
always served, thinly 1⁄2 cup bread flour for 10 minutes. Proofing
sliced and thickly 11⁄2 hours
buttered, as an 3 cups rye flour 6 Divide the dough into two equal (see page 57)
accompaniment to oysters pieces and shape each piece into
or the gargantuan plateau 2 tsp salt a long loaf (see pages 52–53), about Oven temperature
de fruits de mer, which 12 inches in length. Place the loaves 400ºF
is a specialty of the 1 cup water on a floured baking sheet
brasseries of Paris. and let rest for 5 minutes. BakingXI XII I
1 To make the starter Sprinkle the •
yeast into the water in a bowl. 7 Dust the loaves lightly with flour.
Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to Cut six or seven short, parallel VII VI V 45 minutes
dissolve. Add the flour and mix to slashes, 1⁄4 inch deep, at 1⁄2-inch Steam optional
form a thick batter. Cover with a intervals, down both sides of the (see page 63)
dish towel and leave for 2 hours. loaves (see page 62). Cover with a
dish towel and proof until doubled Yield
2 To make the dough Mix the in size, about 11⁄2 hours. 2 small loaves
flours and the salt together in a
large bowl. Make a well in the center 8 Bake in the preheated oven Yeast alternative
and pour in the starter and half of for 45 minutes, until hollow 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
the water. sounding when tapped underneath. (see page 41))
Cool on a wire rack.
3 Mix in the flour. Stir in the
remaining water to form a fairly
moist, sticky dough.

93



F L AV O R E D
BREADS

ADDING FLAVORINGS TO A BASIC DOUGH
ALLOWS THE BAKER TO VARY THE TASTE,
TEXTURE, AND COLOR OF A BREAD. FLAVORINGS
ARE EITHER INCORPORATED DURING MIXING

OR ADDED TO A KNEADED DOUGH. LIGHT
INGREDIENTS, SUCH AS HERBS AND SPICES, WHICH
DO NOT INHIBIT THE DOUGH’S RISING, ARE ADDED

WITH THE FLOUR AT THE MIXING STAGE. MOIST
INGREDIENTS, SUCH AS GRATED OR PURÉED

VEGETABLES OR COOKED WHOLE GRAINS, WHICH
ALSO SUPPLY SOME OF THE DOUGH’S LIQUID
CONTENT, ARE ALSO ADDED BEFORE RISING.

HEAVIER INGREDIENTS, SUCH AS NUTS, TEND TO
BE KNEADED IN AFTER THE DOUGH HAS RISEN IN
ORDER NOT TO HINDER THE ACTION OF THE YEAST.
ALTERNATIVELY, A BASIC DOUGH CAN BE TOPPED

OR FILLED JUST BEFORE BAKING.

LEFT CARROT BREAD IN
A VARIETY OF FLAVOR VARIATIONS

—RECIPES—

CARROT BREAD

Adding shredded raw INGREDIENTS purée the spinach, about 1 minute. Rising II III
• Put the purée in a measuring cup 11⁄2–2 hoursVIII
vegetables to a basic 2 tsp dry yeast and pour in enough water to make (see pages 50–51)IX X
dough will enhance a up a volume of 1 cup. IV
bread’s color, texture, 11⁄2 cups water • Make one quantity Carrot Bread Proofing
and flavor. We find that dough up to step 4, replacing the 45 minutes
grated carrots make a 33⁄4 cups bread flour grated carrot and remaining water (see page 57)
most attractive savory with the spinach purée liquid in
loaf, but grated raw 2 tsp salt step 2. Pour the spinach purée Oven temperature
beets contribute the most liquid into the flour well to form 400ºF
dramatic coloring. This 21⁄4 cups grated carrots a moist, crumbly dough.
excellent crusty loaf with • Continue as directed in steps 4–6. BakingXI XII I
an orange-flecked, spongy 1 tbsp unsalted butter, melted •
crumb is universally Beet Bread
popular. Both grated raw 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup • Make one quantity Carrot Bread VII VI V 45 minutes
vegetables and cooked of the water. Let stand for dough up to step 4, replacing the Steam optional
vegetable purées can be 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. grated carrot with grated raw beets (see page 63)
worked into this dough in step 2.
with great success. 2 Mix the flour and salt in a large • Continue as directed in steps 4–6. Yield
bowl. Make a well in the center 1 loaf
and pour in the dissolved yeast. Add Herb Bread
the carrots and butter to the well. • Make one quantity Carrot Bread Yeast alternative
Mix in the flour. Stir in the remaining dough up to step 4, replacing the 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
water, as needed, to form a moist, grated carrot with a handful of finely (see page 41)
crumbly dough. chopped herbs in step 2. Choose
parsley for color, and use it in
3 Turn the dough out onto a combination with either rosemary
lightly floured work surface. and thyme, or chives and marjoram.
Knead the dough until smooth but • Continue as directed in steps 4–6.
still sticky, about 10 minutes.
Chili Bread
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl • Make one quantity
and cover with a dish towel. Carrot Bread dough up
Let rise until doubled in size, about to step 4, replacing the
1–11/2 hours. Punch down, then let carrots with 3 teaspoons
rest for 10 minutes. crushed red pepper
flakes. Mix with flour
5 Shape the dough into a round and salt in step 2.
loaf (see page 54). Place on a • Continue as directed
floured baking sheet and cover with in steps 4–6.
a dish towel. Proof until doubled in
size, about 45 minutes. Onion and
Caraway Bread
6 Bake in the preheated oven • Melt 4 tablespoons butter
for 45 minutes, until golden in a pan over medium heat.
and hollow sounding when tapped Add 1 onion, chopped. Cook
underneath. Cool on a wire rack. for 10 minutes, until soft and
golden.
VA R I AT I O N S • Make one quantity Carrot
Bread dough up to step 4,
Spinach Bread replacing the carrots with the onion
• Immerse 5 cups spinach and 1 tablespoon caraway seeds.
in rapidly boiling water.
• When the water returns to a boil,
drain and rinse the spinach in cold
water; squeeze dry.
• In a food processor or blender,

96

— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —

PUMPKIN BREAD

This slightly sweet, INGREDIENTS 3 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄4 cup II IIIRising
of the reserved cooking liquid VIII 11⁄2 hours
light-textured bread has 11⁄2lbs pumpkin, peeled, seeded, (or water, if using canned pumpkin (see pages 50–51)IX X
a soft crust and a rich, and cut into pieces, or 13⁄4 cups purée). Let stand for 5 minutes; add IV
golden crumb. When you the honey and stir to dissolve. Proofing
are unable to find fresh canned pumpkin purée 1 hour
pumpkins at the 4 Mix the flour and salt in a large (see page 57)
supermarket, canned 2 tsp dry yeast bowl. Make a well in the center
pumpkin purée will work and pour in the dissolved yeast and Oven temperature
just as well. Use water 2 tsp honey honey, then add the pumpkin purée. 425ºF
as a substitute for the
reserved cooking liquid. 4 cups bread flour 5 Mix in the flour gradually to BakingXI XII I
Acorn or butternut form a fairly firm, coarse, sticky •
squash can be used as an 2 tsp salt dough. If the mixture is too dry, add
alternative to pumpkin. a few tablespoons of the pumpkin VII VI V 40 minutes
egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk and cooking liquid (or water, if using a Steam optional
PUMPKIN BREAD 1 tbsp milk (see page 58) can of pumpkin purée). (see page 63)

2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, to decorate 6 Turn the dough out onto a Yield
lightly floured work surface. 1 loaf
1 Bring a pan of salted water to Knead until very smooth, silky, and
a boil. Add the pumpkin and elastic, about 10 minutes. Yeast alternative
simmer steadily until soft and cooked 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
through, about 20 minutes. Drain 7 Put the dough in a clean bowl (see page 41)
the pumpkin well and reserve the and cover with a dish towel.
cooking liquid. Let rise until doubled in size, about MIXING IN THE
11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest F L AV O R I N G
2 Mash the pumpkin thoroughly for 10 minutes.
and strain or purée in a food
processor or blender, about
2 minutes. Let the pumpkin purée
and reserved cooking liquid cool

until lukewarm.

8 Shape the dough into a round Add the pumpkin purée
loaf (see page 54). Place on an directly to the flour along
oiled baking sheet and cover with the dissolved yeast.
with a dish towel. Proof
until doubled in size,
about 1 hour.

9 Brush the
dough with
the egg glaze

and sprinkle
pumpkin seeds
over the top.
Bake in the

preheated
oven for
40 minutes,
until golden
colored and
hollow sounding
when tapped
underneath. Cool
on a wire rack.

97

—RECIPES—

PAIN AU FROMAGE
CHEESE HEARTH BREAD

This cheese-enriched, INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto a To beginII III
lightly floured work surface. Sponge methodVIII
crusty bread from 2 tsp dry yeast Knead until smooth and elastic, Time: 20 minutesIX X
southern France was about 10 minutes. Knead in the (see page 44)IV
traditionally baked in 11⁄4 cups water grated cheese (see page 99).
a hearth on the dying Rising
embers of a fire. It is 33⁄4 cups bread flour 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl 11⁄2 hours
a perfect casse-croute and cover with a dish towel. (see pages 50–51)
(which means “snack,” 11⁄2 tsp salt Let rise until doubled in size, about
or literally “break-crust”), 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest Proofing
served with a few black 1 tbsp olive oil for 10 minutes. 45 minutes
olives, a slice of jambon (see page 57)
de pays (country ham), 21⁄4 cups grated Gruyère 6 Divide the dough into four
and a glass of red wine. plus extra for topping, optional equal pieces by flattening it into Oven temperature
Try Roquefort or goat a round and cutting it into triangular 400ºF
cheese, crumbled rather 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup quarters; let rest for 10 minutes.
than grated, as an of the water in a bowl. Let stand BakingXI XII I
alternative to Gruyère. for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix 7 Roll out each piece of dough •
the flour and salt in a large bowl. into a flat, oval shape, about
PAIN AU FROMAGE Make a well in the center of the 1⁄4 inch thick. If the dough resists VII VI V 25–30 minutes
flour and pour in the dissolved yeast rolling out, let it rest for 1–2 minutes. Steam optional
and olive oil. Transfer the dough onto two greased (see page 63)
baking sheets.
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw Yield
enough of the flour into the 8 With a sharp knife, make five 4 loaves
dissolved yeast to form a thick paste. slashes through each piece of
Cover the bowl with a dish towel; dough, beginning and ending each Yeast alternative
let “sponge” until frothy and risen, cut about 1 inch from the edge of 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
about 20 minutes. the dough. Open up each slash by (see page 41)
gently pulling the edges apart slightly.
3 Pour about half of the Cover with a dish towel and proof
remaining water into the well. for 45 minutes.
Mix in the flour. Stir in the
reserved water, as needed,
to form a firm,
moist dough.

9 Sprinkle with additional grated
cheese, if desired. Bake in the
preheated oven for 25–30 minutes,
until crisp, golden, and hollow

sounding when tapped underneath.
Cool on a wire rack.

PAIN AUX OLIVES VA R I AT I O N

Pain aux Olives
(Olive Hearth Bread)
• Make one quantity Pain au
Fromage dough, replacing the
Gruyère with 11⁄3 cups roughly
chopped, pitted green olives
in step 4.
• Decorate the shaped dough with
more sliced olives instead of the
cheese before baking in step 9.

98