Ultimate Bread by Eric Treuille, Ursula Ferrigno

—FESTIVE BREADS—

FOUGASSE

PROVENÇAL HEARTH BREAD

This branch-shaped bread INGREDIENTS 7 Put the shaped dough on two To beginII III
oiled baking sheets. To form the Sponge methodVIII
forms the centerpiece 2 tsp dry yeast dough into a leaf shape, make three Time: 20 minutesIX X
of the famous thirteen diagonal slashes across each piece (see page 44)IV
desserts of Provence, 1 cup plus 4 tbsp water of the dough (see page 62). Open out
which are traditional to each slash gently (see below, left). Rising
the Reveillon (Christmas 33⁄4 cups bread flour 11⁄2 hours
Eve) celebrations of the 8 Cover the shaped dough, then (see pages 50–51)
region. After Midnight 11⁄2 tsp salt proof until an imprint of your
Mass, families return finger springs back slowly (see page Proofing
home for a glass of vin 2 tbsp sugar 57), about 45 minutes. 45 minutes
chaud (mulled wine) and (see page 57)
a selection of twelve 1 tsp anise seeds 9 Bake in the preheated oven for
fruits, nuts, and sweets 40–45 minutes, until crisp, golden Oven temperature
arranged around the 1⁄3 cup olive oil brown, and hollow sounding when 350ºF
Fougasse, symbolizing gently tapped underneath.
Christ and his apostles. 1 tbsp orange flower water BakingXI XII I
Unsweetened and VA R I AT I O N •
unperfumed, although 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 7⁄8 cup
often flavored with of the water in a bowl. Let stand Fougasse aux Herbes VII VI V 40–45 minutes
savory ingredients, for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix (Fougasse with Herbs)
Fougasse is now baked the flour, salt, sugar, and anise seeds • Make one quantity Fougasse dough Yield
throughout the year. in a large bowl. Make a well in the up to step 2, replacing the sugar, anise 2 loaves
center of the mixture, then pour in seeds, and orange flower water with
the dissolved yeast. 1 tablespoon herbes Yeast alternative
de Provence. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw • Continue as (see page 41)
enough of the flour into the directed in
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. steps 3–9.
Cover the bowl with a dish towel
and “sponge” until frothy and risen,
about 20 minutes.

SHAPING 3 Add the oil and orange flower
THE DOUGH water to the flour well. Mix in
the flour. Stir in the remaining water,
as needed, to form a soft dough.

4 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured work surface. Knead until
smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Use your fingers to open out 5 Put the dough in a clean, oiled
each slash by gently pulling bowl, turning it to coat evenly
the dough apart at each end. with the oil, then cover it with a dish
towel. Let rise until doubled in size,
about 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then
let rest for 10 minutes.

6 Divide the dough into two
pieces. On a lightly floured work
surface, use the palms of your hands
to flatten each piece into a tear shape,
about 14 inches long and 3⁄4 inch
thick. If the dough resists shaping,
let rest for 1–2 minutes,
then continue.

149

—RECIPES—

CHALLAH

JEWISH SABBATH BREAD

Egg-enriched Challah INGREDIENTS at both ends than in the middle, To beginII III
then braid the ropes (see page 57). Sponge methodVIII
(meaning “dough 2 tsp dry yeast Time: 20 minutesIX X
offering” in Hebrew) is 6 Place on a buttered baking (see page 44)IV
usually a braided loaf. 3⁄4 cups plus 2 tbsp water sheet; cover with a dish towel.
Braided Challah is the Proof until doubled in size, about Rising
traditional Jewish 33⁄4 cups bread flour 45 minutes–1 hour. 2 hours
holiday and Sabbath (see pages 50–51)
bread: the three strands 1⁄2 tsp salt 7 Brush with the egg glaze and
symbolize truth, peace, sprinkle with poppy seeds. Proofing
and justice. A circular 2 tbsp honey Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes–1 hour
loaf is baked for the 45 minutes, until richly golden (see page 57)
Jewish New Year, or 2 eggs, beaten and hollow sounding when tapped
Rosh Hashanah, and its underneath. Cool on a wire rack. Oven temperature
round shape symbolizes 4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 350ºF
continuity because it has VA R I AT I O N S
no beginning and no end. egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk beaten BakingXI XII I
Often Challah is studded with 1 tbsp water (see page 58) Coiled Challah •
with sesame or poppy • Make one quantity Challah
seeds, which signify 2 tsp poppy seeds, to decorate dough up to step 5. VII VI V 45 minutes
the manna that fell| • Shape the dough into a long loaf
from heaven. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the (see page 52). Roll the dough under Yield
water in a bowl. Let stand for the palms of your hands, with even 1 loaf
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix pressure, until it forms a rope, about
the flour and salt in a large bowl. 20 inches long. Taper the ends. Yeast alternative
Make a well in the center and pour • Coil the tapered rope into a 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
in the dissolved yeast. “snail”-like spiral. Pinch the end of (see page 41)
the coiled rope to seal.
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw • Continue as directed in steps 6–7.
enough of the flour into the
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste.
Cover the bowl with a dish towel
and “sponge” until frothy and risen,
about 20 minutes.

COILED CHALLAH 3 Add the honey, beaten eggs, Pulla
and melted butter to the flour (Finnish Crown Loaf)
well. Mix in the flour from the sides (see page 18 for illustration)
to form a soft dough. Turn the • Infuse 1⁄4 teaspoon saffron strands
dough out on to a lightly floured in 3⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons
surface. Knead until smooth, shiny, heated milk.
and elastic, about 10 minutes. • Make one quantity Challah dough
as directed in steps 1–3, replacing
4 Put the dough in a buttered the water with the milk in step 1,
bowl, turning to coat evenly the honey with 1⁄3 cup sugar in step
with the butter. Cover with a dish 3, and adding 1⁄2 teaspoon ground
towel. Let rise until doubled in size, cardamom with the sugar to flavor
about 2 hours. Punch down, then the dough in step 3.
let rest for 10 minutes. • Continue as directed in step 4.
Shape the dough to braid, as
5 Divide the dough into directed in step 5, but do not taper
three equal pieces. Roll the end of the ropes (see page 57).
out each piece to form a • Place on a buttered baking sheet;
shape the dough into a circle, and
16-inch-long rope. Use the pinch the ends together to seal.
flattened palms of your • Continue as steps 6–7, omitting
hands to taper the ends of the poppy seeds.
each rope, so that it is thinner

150



—RECIPES—

PAN DE MUERTO
“BREAD OF THE DEAD”

The staple flour in INGREDIENTS 3 Add the eggs, butter, sugar, anise II IIITo begin
seeds, orange flower water, and VIII Sponge method
Mexico is cornmeal. 2 tsp dry yeast orange zest to the flour well. Mix IX X Time: 20 minutes
Pan de Muerto, which 4 tbsp water in the flour from the sides to form IV(see page 44)
is baked specially for the 4 cups all-purpose flour a soft, sticky dough.
Mexican Day of the Dead Rising
festival, which takes place 1 tsp salt 4 Turn out onto a lightly floured 2 hours
on All Souls’ Day, is made 6 eggs, beaten work surface. Knead until (see pages 50–51)
instead with a highly 9 tbsp unsalted butter, melted smooth and elastic, 10 minutes.
prized ingredient: 2⁄3 cup sugar Proofing
wheat flour. The bread 2 tsp anise seeds 5 Put the dough in a clean, 30 minutes
is flavored with orange 1 tbsp orange flower water buttered bowl, turning it to coat (see page 57)
water and anise seeds grated zest of 1 orange evenly with the butter. Let rise until
and is decorated with egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk beaten doubled in size, about 2 hours. Oven temperature
pieces of dough that have with 1 tbsp water (see page 58) 350ºF
been formed into the sugar, to decorate 6 Divide the dough into two equal
shape of bones. The bread pieces, and pinch off a quarter BakingXI XII I
is taken to the cemetery 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the of each piece. Divide one of these •
with other gifts, including water in a bowl. Let stand for small pieces in half and shape each
chocolate, candy, and the 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the one into a ball, 1 inch across. VII VI V 35 minutes
symbolic flowers of the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make Divide the other small piece into
dead, yellow marigolds. a well in the center of the flour and 16 equal pieces, and shape each Yield
pour in the dissolved yeast. of them into a cylinder, 1⁄2 inch thick. 2 loaves
Shape each cylinder into a small
bone (see below). Yeast alternative
1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
(see page 41)

2 Use a wooden spoon to draw 7 Shape the two remaining large
enough of the flour into the pieces of dough into two round
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. loaves (see page 54). Place on a
Cover with a dish towel and buttered baking sheet and stick one
of the small balls on top of each loaf.
“sponge” until Arrange the bones to form four
frothy, about crosses on the sides of each loaf.
20 minutes.

8 Cover the shaped loaves
with a dish towel and proof
until risen, about
30 minutes. Brush
the loaves with the
egg glaze and
sprinkle with sugar.
Bake in the
preheated oven
for 35 minutes,
until golden
brown and hollow
sounding when
tapped underneath.
Cool on a wire rack, then
sprinkle with more sugar
before serving.

152

—FESTIVE BREADS—

CIAMBELLA MANDORLATA
RING-SHAPED EASTER BREAD WITH NUT BRITTLE

Decorated with a INGREDIENTS 5 Divide the dough into two equal XI XII I II III Rising
pieces and roll each piece into •VIII 4 hours
crunchy-sweet nut and 2 tsp dry yeast a 16-inch-long rope. Twist the two IX X (see pages 50–51)
spice topping, this Italian 1⁄2 cup lukewarm milk dough ropes together. VII VI V IV
Easter bread is originally 41⁄2 cups bread flour Proofing
from Bologna, one of 6 Place the dough rope on a 11⁄2 hours
the capital cities of 2 tsp salt buttered baking sheet. Shape (see page 57)
the Emilia Romagna 1⁄3 cup sugar it into a ring by bringing the two
region. This traditional grated zest of 3 lemons ends of the rope together. Pinch Oven temperature
ring-shaped loaf is said 9 tbsp unsalted butter, softened them to seal and cover with a dish 400ºF
to represent the unity of 3 eggs, beaten towel. Proof until doubled in size,
the family. It is now 1⁄2 cup water about 11⁄2 hours. Baking
common to see the bread for the topping 45 minutes
in Italian bakeries all year 4 tsp ground cinnamon 7 To make the topping Mix the
round, not just during the 3 tbsp sugar cinnamon, sugar, almonds, and Yield
Easter holidays. egg yolk in a bowl. Use a rubber 1 loaf
spatula to spread the mixture evenly
over the top of the ring. Bake in Yeast alternative
the preheated oven for 45 minutes, 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
until golden and hollow sounding (see page 41)
when tapped underneath. Cool on
3⁄4 cup blanched almonds, toasted a wire rack.
and roughly chopped

1 egg yolk

1 Sprinkle the yeast into the
milk in a small bowl. Let stand
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve.
Mix the flour, salt, sugar, and
lemon zest in a large bowl. Make
a well in the center of the mixture
and add the butter, eggs, and
dissolved yeast.

2 Mix in the flour from the
sides of the well. Add
the water 1 tablespoon at a
time, as needed, to form
a soft, sticky dough.

3 Turn the dough
out onto a lightly
floured work surface.
Knead until smooth,
springy, and elastic,
about 10 minutes.

4 Put the dough in a
clean bowl and cover
with a dish towel. Let the
dough rise until doubled
in size, about 4 hours. Punch
down the dough, then let rest,
covered with a dish towel, for
about 10 minutes.

153

—RECIPES—

BOLO-REI
EPIPHANY BREAD

INGREDIENTS 2 Use a wooden spoon to draw To begin
enough of the flour into the Sponge method
1⁄2 cup glacé citrus peel, chopped dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. Time: 20 minutes
1⁄3 cup each raisins and pine nuts Cover the bowl with a dish towel. (see page 44)
“Sponge” until frothy and slightly
1⁄2 cup port risen, about 20 minutes. Rising
21⁄2 tsp dry yeast 2 hours
(see pages 50–51)
This bread, laden with 1⁄2 cup water 3 Beat the butter with the sugar II III
and the lemon and orange zest VIII Proofing
nuts and glacé fruits, is 33⁄4 cups bread flour in a separate bowl until light and IX X 1 hour
traditionally eaten in fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, IV(see page 57)
Portugal to celebrate the 11⁄2 tsp salt and beat well after each addition.
feast of the Epiphany— Add the mixture to the flour well, Oven temperature
when the Three Kings 7 tbsp unsalted butter, softened then mix in the flour from the sides 350ºF
arrived in Bethlehem to to form a soft dough.
lay their gifts at the feet 1⁄2 cup plus 1 tbsp sugar BakingXI XII I
of the infant Jesus. The 4 Turn the dough out onto a •
bread must contain a bean zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange lightly floured work surface.
and a gift baked inside. Knead until soft, smooth, silky, and VII VI V 45 minutes
Whoever gets the bean 3 eggs, beaten elastic, about 10 minutes. Knead in
is king for a day and the dried fruit and pine nuts until Yield
is obliged to make the a dried broad bean and a small present evenly distributed (see page 99). 1 loaf
Bolo-rei next year.
for the topping 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl Yeast alternative
and cover with a dish towel. 11⁄4 cakes
egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk beaten Let rise until doubled in size, about (0.6oz-sized) yeast
with 1 tbsp water (see page 58) 2 hours. Punch down, then let rest (see page 41)
for 10 minutes.
10 glacé cherries
6 Shape the dough into a ring
2 segments each glacé orange, (see page 56), then place it on a
lemon, and lime peel buttered baking sheet. Wrap a dried
broad bean and a trinket or small
sugar cubes, crushed, to decorate present separately in waxed paper.
Insert both tiny packages into the
apricot jam, to glaze bottom of the shaped dough.

1 Soak the glacé peel, raisins, and 7 Cover the dough with a dish
pine nuts in the port overnight, towel and proof until doubled
or until plump and swollen. Sprinkle in size, about 1 hour.
the yeast into the water in a bowl.

Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to
dissolve. Mix the flour
and salt in a large
bowl. Make a well
in the center and
pour in the
dissolved
yeast.

8 To make the topping Brush the
dough with the egg glaze and
decorate with the glacé fruit and the
crushed sugar. Bake in the preheated
oven for 45 minutes, until golden.
Warm the apricot jam in a saucepan

over low heat until liquid, then
brush the top and sides of the
bread with it to glaze. Cool on
a wire rack.

—FESTIVE BREADS—

PANETTONE

MILANESE CHRISTMAS BREAD

Once upon a time, a INGREDIENTS 6 Grease a round mold, a deep To beginII III
cake pan, or a small saucepan, Sponge methodVIII
Milanese baker named 21⁄2 tsp dry yeast about 8 inches across and 6 inches Time: 20 minutesIX X
Toni fell in love with a deep, with softened butter. Line the (see page 44)IV
very beautiful woman 1 cup lukewarm milk base and sides of the mold with
who walked past his baking parchment so that it extends Rising
bakery every day. The 23⁄4 cups all-purpose flour 5 inches above the top. 1 hour
baker, determined to (see pages 50–51)
create a magnificent 1⁄2 tsp salt 7 Knead 7 tbsp softened butter,
bread to tempt her inside, egg yolks, sugar, citrus peel, Proofing
labored for six months 8 tbsp unsalted butter, softened raisins, nutmeg, lemon and orange 2 hours
and finally created a tall, zests, and vanilla extract into the (see page 57)
domed loaf that lured her 2 egg yolks dough until thoroughly combined,
in. But when their eyes about 5 minutes (see page 99). Oven temperature
met, he fell out of love 1⁄3 cup sugar 350ºF
with her. However, his 8 Shape the dough into a round
toils were not in vain; his 3 tbsp candied citrus peel, chopped loaf (see page 54). Place in the BakingXI XII I
new creation, called Pan prepared mold. Use the tip of a sharp •
di Toni (“Toni’s bread”)— 1⁄3 packed cup golden raisins knife to cut an “X” across the top.
eventually corrupted Cover with a dish towel and proof VII VI V 45 minutes
to Panettone—is now pinch of nutmeg, grated until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
renowned throughout Yield
Italy and the rest of the grated zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange 9 Brush the top with the egg glaze. 1 loaf
world as a favorite gift, Bake in the preheated oven for
especially at Christmas. 1 tsp vanilla extract 45 minutes, until a metal skewer Yeast alternative
inserted into the center comes out 11⁄4 cakes
egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk beaten clean. Remove from the mold and (0.6oz-sized) yeast
with water (see page 58) cool in the baking paper on a wire (see page 41)
rack. Dust the top with confectioners’
confectioners’ sugar, to decorate sugar to decorate.

1 Sprinkle the yeast into the milk
in a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes;
stir to dissolve. Mix the flour and
salt in a large bowl. Make a well in
the center of the flour and pour
in the dissolved yeast.

2 Use a wooden spoon to draw
enough of the flour into the
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste.
Cover the bowl with a dish towel
and “sponge” until frothy and
risen, 20 minutes.

3 Mix in the flour from
the sides of the well
to form a stiff dough.

4 Turn the dough
out onto a lightly
floured work surface.
Knead until smooth and
elastic, about 10 minutes.

5 Put the dough in
a bowl and cover
with a dish towel. Let
rise until doubled in
size, about 1 hour. Punch
down; rest for 10 minutes.

155

—RECIPES—

RECIPES USING BREAD

THROUGH THE AGES, resourceful cooks available: frugal Tuscan peasants stirred hearty
have transformed breads into delicious country breads into soups and salads to make
sweet and savory dishes, and, although filling fare; thrifty British housewives incorporated
often born out of good housekeeping, many are pan loaves into sweet puddings; and great French
now treasured as national favorites. These dishes chefs modeled light white breads into golden,
usually evolved around the breads that were locally crispy garnishes for their haute cuisine creations.

B RU S C H E T TA

GRILLED COUNTRY BREAD WITH GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL

Originally a Roman INGREDIENTS 2 While still hot, rub one side of Makes
each slice of bread with the cut 4 servings
specialty, Bruschetta is 4 slices of country bread, a day old side of the garlic clove.
now eaten throughout 1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half BREADS TO USE
Italy. In Tuscany, during 3 Sprinkle olive oil and salt evenly
the olive harvest, thick 4 tbsp olive oil over the bread slices. Serve hot. Broa, page 78
slices of bread are coarse salt For a hearty alternative, top the Pane di Semola, page 87
grilled and then liberally grilled and seasoned slices of bread Pane di Prato, page 88
anointed with the new 1 Toast each of the bread slices with crushed ripe tomato and freshly Pane Casalingo, page 89
season’s olive oil. on a preheated grill (either an torn basil leaves.
outdoor barbecue or oven grill). Ciabatta, page 90

PAPPA AL POMODORO CON PORRI
BREAD SOUP WITH TOMATO AND LEEKS

A coarse country bread INGREDIENTS garlic, and red pepper flakes. Makes
Continue to cook until the leeks are 4 servings
made with olive oil, 2 tbsp olive oil soft and wilted, about 5 minutes.
such as Mantovana or BREADS TO USE
Ciabatta, is best suited 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 Stir in the tomatoes and cook
for this hearty Tuscan until they begin to release their Pain Ordinaire, page 72
soup. Although fresh 4 slim or 2 fat leeks, finely chopped juices, about 5 minutes. Pour in the Broa, page 78
tomatoes are preferable, hot stock and bring to a boil. Season
canned tomatoes make 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed with salt and pepper and simmer Pain de Campagne,
a suitable alternative. gently for 30 minutes. page 85
Serve this soup with 1⁄2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
a spoonful or two of 3 Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. San Francisco Sourdough,
freshly grated Parmesan, 11⁄2 lb ripe tomatoes, chopped Stir the bread into the hot soup page 86
a nontraditional but and cook for 10 minutes, until the
nonetheless delicious 41⁄4 cups hot chicken or bread is swollen and the soup Pane di Semola, page 87
garnish to the recipe. vegetable stock has thickened. Pane di Prato, page 88
Pane Casalingo, page 89
salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Stir in the basil leaves. Check the
seasoning, and add more salt and Ciabatta, page 90
6 slices of country bread, a day old pepper if necessary. Serve in warmed Mantovana, page 114
bowls, with the extra virgin olive oil.
6 basil leaves, torn

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large sauté pan.
Add the onion and cook over
medium heat until golden and soft,
about 5 minutes. Add the leeks,

156

—RECIPES USING BREAD—

PANZANELLA

TUSCAN BREAD AND TOMATO SALAD

In Tuscan farmhouse INGREDIENTS 1 Cut the bread into 1⁄2-inch cubes Makes
and put them in a large bowl. 4 servings
kitchens, Panzanella 6 slices of bread, a day old Dice the tomatoes and cucumber
is made at the end of and add to the bowl with the olives, BREADS TO USE
the summer to use up the 2lb fresh, ripe tomatoes, onion, capers, and basil.
seasonal glut of tomatoes, peeled and seeded Pain de Campagne,
cucumbers, and basil. In page 85
Tuscany, the bread used 1⁄2 cucumber, peeled
is Pane di Prato, a coarse, San Francisco Sourdough,
saltless bread, but any 1 cup black olives, pitted and halved 2 Add the olive oil and vinegar page 86
open-textured, country 1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped and season with salt and pepper.
bread will do. Fresh, but Stir well, then let stand for 1 hour at Pane di Prato, page 88
very ripe, red tomatoes 2 tbsp capers, rinsed room temperature to allow the flavors
are essential. Let 6 basil leaves, torn to blend well. Pane Casalingo, page 89
tomatoes ripen on 1⁄3 cup extra virgin olive oil
a sunny window sill. 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 Toss everything together Ciabatta, page 90
salt and freshly ground black pepper thoroughly. Check the seasoning,
and add more salt and pepper,
if necessary, before serving.

157

—RECIPES—

PAIN PERDU
FRENCH TOAST

Pain Perdu—literally INGREDIENTS 2 Dip the bread slices into the egg Makes
mixture, submerging each slice 4 servings
“lost bread”—is so called 2 eggs, beaten in the egg to coat it well.
because the bread is so BREADS TO USE
smothered in an egg- 11⁄4 cups milk 3 Melt half the butter in a large,
and-milk custard that it nonstick frying pan over medium Victorian Milk Bread,
disappears entirely, and is 3⁄8 cup sugar heat. When the butter begins to foam, page 76
thus lost. In France, this add the slices, a few at a time, and
favorite family leftover 8 slices of bread, a day old cook until golden on both sides. Ballymaloe Brown Bread,
dish is usually served Drain on paper towels. page 78
with jam, but we also 8 tbsp unsalted butter
love it with crispy bacon 4 Add the remaining butter to Baguette, page 79
and maple syrup. 1 Place the eggs, milk, and the pan as it is needed. Sprinkle
1 tablespoon of the sugar in a the French toast with the remaining Brioche, page 112
large bowl. Beat them together with sugar immediately and serve warm.
a fork until thoroughly mixed and Challah, page 150
foaming. Press the mixture through
a fine strainer to remove any strands
of egg white.

BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM

A popular dessert during INGREDIENTS until it starts to brown around the II IIIOven temperature
edge of the pan. Swirl the pan VIII 425ºF
the Victorian era in 23⁄4 cups whole-wheat breadcrumbs occasionally so that the syrup colors IX X
England, this crunchy- evenly to a rich brown. Remove the IVBakingXI XII I
textured, caramel ice 2⁄3 cup sugar pan from the heat and stir in the •
cream recently has been toasted breadcrumbs.
rediscovered. Brown Bread 1⁄3 cup water VII VI V 15 minutes
Ice Cream is best eaten 3 Turn the caramel-coated crumbs
when freshly made, but 2 cups plus 2 tbsp heavy cream out onto a baking sheet lined Makes
if you do make it in with baking parchment and let cool 4–6 servings
advance, remove it from 2⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted until the crumbs are hardened.
the freezer and allow it BREADS TO USE
to soften for 1 hour in 1 tsp vanilla extract 4 Wrap the baking parchment
the refrigerator before around the caramel-coated Pain Ordinaire
serving. Serve with 2 tbsp dark rum, brandy, or whisky crumbs. Crush the crumbs into small made with brown flour,
raspberries and garnish pieces with your hands or rolling pin.
with a sprig of mint. 1 Spread the breadcrumbs in page 72
an even layer on a baking sheet. 5 Use a hand-held mixer or balloon
Toast in the preheated oven, stirring whisk to whip the cream until Granary Pan Loaf, page 73
occasionally, until crisp and golden it is soft and light. Fold the
brown, about 15 minutes. confectioners’ sugar, vanilla extract, Ballymaloe Brown Bread,
and rum into the cream. Fold in the page 78
2 Heat the sugar and the water caramel-coated crumbs.
in a saucepan over low heat
and stir gently. When the sugar has

dissolved completely to form a
syrup, raise the heat and boil

rapidly 6 Spoon the mixture into a
3 cup airtight plastic container,
seal, and freeze. Do not use an
ice-cream machine because the
churning motion will curdle the
cream. Soften in the refrigerator for
1 hour before serving.

158

—RECIPES USING BREAD—

BREAD & BUTTER PUDDING

This old-fashioned INGREDIENTS 5 Bake in the preheated oven, Oven temperatureII III
covered, for 20 minutes. 425ºFVIII
favorite was originally 32 Baguette slices, or 8 pan loaf slices Remove the paper from the pudding IX X
made with leftover plain and bake for 20–25 minutes, until BakingXI XII IIV
white or whole-wheat 2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened the custard has just set, the pudding •
bread, but Victorian Milk has risen slightly, and the bread
Bread, Brioche, Challah, 3⁄4 packed cup raisins slices have turned crispy around the VII VI V 40–45 minutes
and Panettone can be edges. Dust with confectioners’ sugar
used for more indulgent grated zest of 1 lemon and serve warm. Makes
versions. Try the chocolate 4–6 servings
variation for a wickedly 1⁄4 tsp ground nutmeg, plus extra to dust VA R I AT I O N
delicious pudding. Make BREADS TO USE
it with any of the breads 3 eggs, beaten Chocolate Bread Pudding
suggested, or try it with • Make 1 quantity Bread and Butter Pain Ordinaire, page 72
Cinnamon Raisin Bread 3 tbsp sugar Pudding up to step 2. Victorian Milk Bread,
for a real treat. Soak the • Omit the lemon zest and replace
raisins in dark rum for a 2 cups plus 2 tbsp milk the nutmeg with 1 teaspoon ground page 76
lusciously boozy twist – cinnamon. Arrange the bread in the Ballymaloe Brown Bread,
Chocolate, Rum, and 1⁄2 cup heavy cream dish as directed in step 2, sprinkling
Raisin Bread Pudding. the raisins, cinnamon, and 31⁄2oz page 78
1 tsp vanilla extract bittersweet chocolate, roughly Baguette, page 79
chopped, between each layer. Brioche, page 112
confectioners’ sugar, to dust • Put the eggs and sugar in a large
bowl. Heat the milk, cream, and Zopf, page 117
1 Butter the bread on one side of vanilla as directed in step 3; remove Pain Viennois, page 117
each slice. For pan loaf slices, cut from the heat and add 31⁄2oz
each one in half diagonally, then into chopped chocolate. Let stand for Challah, page 150
quarters. Scatter 1 tablespoon of 5 minutes, then whisk until the Pulla, page 150
raisins over the bottom of a buttered chocolate has completely melted.
1 quart oval baking dish. • Whisk the chocolate mixture into Panettone, page 155
the eggs and sugar, then pour over
2 Layer the buttered bread in the the bread. Press the bread slices
baking dish, sprinkling raisins, down into the mixture. Omitting
lemon zest, and nutmeg between the nutmeg, soak, bake and serve,
each layer. Make sure that the top as directed in
layer of bread is placed with the steps 4–5.
buttered side up.

3 Put the eggs and 2 tablespoons
of the sugar in a large bowl.
Heat the milk, cream, and vanilla
extract in a saucepan over medium
heat, until just boiling. Whisk the
hot milk and cream mixture into the
eggs and sugar to make a custard;
pour over the bread. Lightly
press down the bread
slices to completely
submerge them
in the custard.

4 Dust with
nutmeg and
the remaining
sugar. Cover the
baking dish with a
piece of parchment
paper. Let the
bread soak for
20–30 minutes.

159

—RECIPES—

BREADCRUMBS & CROUTONS

BREADS TO USE LA CHAPELURE LA PANURE
FOR BREADCRUMBS
DRY BREADCRUMBS FRESH BREADCRUMBS
Pain Ordinaire, page 72
Victorian Milk Bread, page 76 The primary use of dry breadcrumbs is as Fresh breadcrumbs have two main roles.
Ballymaloe Brown Bread, page 78
a coating for ingredients to be deep-fried In stuffings, meatloaves, dumplings, and
Baguette, page 79 or roasted. Foods to be fried are usually steamed puddings, breadcrumbs bind the
• dipped first in flour and then in beaten ingredients together. When sprinkled as a
egg before being coated with breadcrumbs. topping over gratins and other baked dishes,
BREADS TO USE Ingredients such as fish fillets and rack of breadcrumbs provide both color and crunch
FOR CROUTES lamb are often spread with a little smooth and serve to protect creamy sauces from
mustard before the breadcrumbs are pressed the high heat of the oven or grill. Fresh
Baguette, page 79 on. Stored in an airtight container, dry breadcrumbs can be stored in an airtight
Pain aux Noix, page 99 breadcrumbs keep indefinitely. container and frozen for up to six months.

• Makes 2 cups dry breadcrumbs Makes 21⁄2 cups fresh breadcrumbs

BREADS TO USE 5 slices day-old bread, crusts cut off 6 slices fresh bread, crusts cut off
FOR DICED CROUTONS
Put the bread slices on a baking sheet. To chop by hand Use a chef’s knife to cut
Pain Ordinaire, page 72 Leave in a 300°F oven until dry and crisp, the bread into cubes on a large chopping
Victorian Milk Bread, page 76 about 10 minutes. Let cool. board. Chop the bread cubes coarsely or
Pain de Campagne, page 85 To grind by hand Wrap the bread in a finely as stipulated in the recipe.
Carrot Bread and recipe variation, page 96 plastic bag. Press a rolling pin all over the To grind in a food processor or blender
bag, crushing the bread until ground to Cut the bread into rough chunks;
Pumpkin Bread, page 97 the desired consistency. Press through put in the bowl of a food processor
• a strainer for a finer texture. or a blender. Grind the bread to the
To grind in a food processor or blender desired consistency.
BREADS TO USE Put the dried bread in the work bowl of
FOR MELBA TOAST a food processor or in a blender. Grind
to the desired consistency.
Pain Ordinaire, page 72
Victorian Milk Bread, page 76 VA R I AT I O N VA R I AT I O N S

Brioche, page 112 Chapelure à la Provençale Panure à la Milanaise
• • Make one quantity dry breadcrumbs. • Make one quantity fresh breadcrumbs.
• In a small bowl, combine the dry bread- • Mix with 2⁄3 cup grated Parmesan.
BREADS TO USE crumbs with 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, • Use to top gratin dishes before baking
FOR SHAPED CROUTONS 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon fresh or grilling at high temperature.
thyme leaves, a pinch each salt and pepper,
Pain Ordinaire, page 72 and 4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley. Buttered Crumbs
Victorian Milk Bread, page 76 • Use to coat meat or fish before sprinkling • Make one quantity fresh breadcrumbs.
with olive oil and roasting or grilling • Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a pan over
Brioche, page 112 at a high temperature. medium heat. When the butter is hot,
Pain Viennois, add the breadcrumbs and stir well to coat
page 117 evenly. Sauté until golden, about 1 minute.
• Use to top steamed vegetables.
SHAPED
CROUTONS

160

—RECIPES USING BREAD—

CROUTES DICED CROUTONS MELBA TOAST

Croutes make ideal canapé bases Diced Croutons add a delicious crunch to These wafer-thin slices of toast make a

garnished with savory toppings, like fresh soups, salads, and omelettes. They are best perfect accompaniment to pâtés, smoked
goat cheese. They are also an essential when made just before serving, but may be
component of the classic, Parisian bistro– prepared several hours ahead and kept at salmon, creamy dips, and, best of all, caviar.
style recipe Soupe à L’Ognion Gratinée. room temperature. To reheat, place in an
Crostini are simply the Italian (originally oven, 325°F, for 5 minutes. They can be stored in an airtight container
Tuscan) equivalent of the French Croutes.
for several days; reheat before serving.

Makes about 40 croutons
4 slices of day-old bread, crusts cut off
2 tbsp unsalted butter and 2 tbsp sunflower oil

Makes about 32 croutes To fry Cut the bread into 1⁄2-inch cubes. Makes about 32 toasts
Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan
1 day-old Baguette over low heat. Test that it is hot enough 4 slices of bread, each about 1⁄2 inch thick
by adding one cube to the pan; the bread
Preheat the oven to 350°F. should sizzle when it goes in. Place the Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Cut the Baguette into 1⁄2-inch slices. croutons in the pan in a single layer. Toast the bread slices. Cut off the
Place slices in a single layer on a baking Sauté, stirring constantly, until crisp, crusts and slice each piece of toast in
sheet. Bake until crisp, about 15 minutes. about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels half horizontally. Cut each slice in half
Use for canapé bases or with antipasti. before serving. Let cool. diagonally and in half again to make
small triangles. Place on a baking sheet
VA R I AT I O N S Makes about 40 croutons and bake until golden and crisp, about
10 minutes.
Cheese Croutes 4 slices of day-old bread, crusts cut off
• Make one quantity Croutes as directed. SHAPED CROUTONS
• Melt 2 tablespoons butter. Grate 1⁄3 cup 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
Parmesan. Brush one side of each croute
with the butter or with oil. To bake Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut
• Sprinkle the grated cheese and a the bread into 1⁄2-inch cubes; place in a
pinch of cayenne pepper evenly over the roasting pan. Pour the melted butter over
buttered side of each croute. Place in a the cubes and toss them to coat evenly.
single layer on a baking sheet and bake Bake until crisp and golden,
until golden, 5 minutes. about 10 minutes.
• Use as a garnish for soups or salads.
These elegant, parsley-tipped shapes are used
Garlic Croutes
• Make one quantity Croutes as directed. in French haute cuisine as a classic garnish.
• Peel 1 garlic clove and cut it in half.
• Rub one side of each croute with the VA R I AT I O N Makes about 12 heart-shaped croutons
cut side of the garlic. Sprinkle this side
of each of the croutes with olive oil. Garlic Croutons 4 slices of bread, each about 1⁄4 inch thick
• Use as a garnish for soups or salads. • Make one quantity Diced Croutons by
either method as directed; remove from the 2 tbsp unsalted butter
frying pan or oven just before they are done.
• Toss with 1 finely chopped garlic clove 2 tbsp sunflower oil
while still hot and before draining.
• Return to a hot frying pan or oven for 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley, optional
a couple of minutes to finish crisping.
Cut the bread into heart-shaped pieces.
Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan
over low heat. Add the bread shapes to
the pan in a single layer. Sauté on each
side until golden, about 5 minutes.
If desired, dip the pointed ends of the
croutons in the finely chopped parsley.

161

PROBLEM SOLVING

ALESS THAN PERFECT LOAF of bread generally temperature, and humidity vary so greatly
begins with a less than perfect dough. from kitchen to kitchen, and region to region.
In fact, the most common mistake in Carefully follow the recipe instructions for dough
breadmaking is producing a dough that is too dry. consistency, as well as the kneading, rising, and
A dry dough is stiff and hard and will remain a proofing times. However, remember that bread
solid, heavy lump that will resist proper kneading, dough is influenced by its environment. Therefore,
rising, proofing, and shaping. It is impossible it is important to take this factor into account and
to specify an exact quantity of liquid or, indeed, adjust the instructions as necessary. Use these
precise rising times for each recipe when flour, guidelines to help make a perfect dough.

ACHIEVING THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY

THE IDEAL CONSISTENCY for most doughs is firm but DRY DOUGH AT THE KNEADING STAGE
moist. A dough should feel soft and slightly sticky after
mixing, but should become smooth and elastic as it is THE DOUGH HAS BEEN gathered
kneaded. Resist adding extra flour until you are certain to form a ball but is still too
that the dough is unmanageable. Adjustments are best stiff and hard to knead. Add
made at the mixing stage, but additional water or flour water gradually to allow the
can be added to the dough at the kneading stage as well. dough to absorb the liquid
without becoming a slippery,
DRY DOUGH AT THE MIXING STAGE sticky mess. A water sprayer
with a fine mist is best for this
purpose. Spray the dough and
continue kneading; repeat
until you achieve the required
consistency. If you do not have
a water sprayer, moisten your
hands lightly with water and
knead. Repeat, if necessary.

1 The bulk of the flour and 2 Use a wooden spoon to WET DOUGH AT THE KNEADING STAGE
the water gather together mix the dry crumbs with
into a ball but also leave a the water until a smooth paste THE DOUGH IS REQUIRED to be
crumbly mass at the bottom is formed. Combine this firm enough to hold its shape
of the mixing bowl. Add mixture with the main bulk after kneading. In most
water, 1 teaspoon at a time, of the dough by kneading the recipes it should become more
to the dry crumbs. two together with your hands. pliable as it is kneaded: your
fingers should come away as
you knead, and it should feel
smooth and light. However,
if the dough is still too wet to
work with, extra flour can be
added at the kneading stage
(see right). Dust the dough
lightly with flour and continue
kneading; dust again with
more flour, only if necessary.

162

— P R O B L E M S O LV I N G —

COMMON PROBLEMS IN BAKED BREADS

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES REMEDIES

CLOSE-TEXTURED, • The dough was too dry. It • Follow the instructions to achieve the required dough consistency
DENSE CRUMB should feel soft and sticky after given in the recipe. See instructions on the opposite page for adding
mixing. If dry, it will not develop. additional liquid at either the mixing or the kneading stage.

• The dough was not sufficiently • To test the dough for sufficient kneading, press it with a fingertip.
kneaded. It should feel smooth The indentation should spring back immediately. If it does not,
and elastic after kneading. continue to knead until the dough is ready.

• The dough had not risen • Check the dough after rising to be sure that it is properly risen.
sufficiently. It should rise until Use the test illustrated below to determine if more time is necessary.
it is double in volume, puffy,
and aerated. • To make sure that rising is
complete, test the dough by
gently pressing it with a fingertip
(see right). If the dough is
properly risen, it will not spring
back completely. The dough will
spring back at once if the rising
is not complete.

FLAT AND • The dough was overproofed, • Punch down the shaped dough, reshape, and proof again.
SPREAD-OUT LOAF causing the loaf to collapse from If the recipe requires the dough to be so soft that it does not
the initial exposure to the heat hold its shape, use a basket to support the loaf while proofing.
of the oven during baking.
When dough is very puffed • To test the dough for overproofing, press it with a fingertip.
up and more than doubled If the dough has been overproofed, it will deflate and release
in volume (unless specified in a strong smell of fermenting yeast.
the recipe), it is overproofed.

CRACKS ON • The dough was under- • Proof until the dough has doubled in volume and is light, puffy,
SIDES OF LOAF proofed, causing the loaf to and aerated. Test the dough for sufficient proofing by pressing
expand too much in the oven. it with a fingertip. If the dough resists forming an indentation
The loaf burst open during or springs back quickly, it requires more proofing time. If the
baking after the outer crust indentation springs back gradually but completely, the dough
had already formed. is ready to be placed in the oven.

• The dough was improperly • Review basic shaping (see pages 52–57). Be sure to always apply
shaped or the seam was not pressure evenly at the various steps of shaping a loaf and to allow
sealed well at the end of shaping. the dough to rest between steps should it begin to resist or tighten.

DRY PATCHES OF • The dough was left either • Cover the dough securely with
UNCOOKED DOUGH uncovered or in a drafty place a dish towel (see right) and avoid
during the rising or the proofing drafty places. Before shaping the
steps of the recipe. dough, discard any dry, crusty
pieces that have formed on top.

163

GLOSSARY

Anise seeds Green-brown, oval seeds with an Ghee A concentrated, clarified butter with a Paste A mixture of flour, liquid, and
aromatic licorice flavor. Native to the Middle strong, sweet flavor, used as a cooking fat in sometimes leaven that is too stiff to pour, but
East, anise seeds are widely available in India and many Middle Eastern countries. too moist to work with the hands.
most supermarkets.
Gluten The stretchy elastic strands of protein Poolish French for a starter. Traditionally
Batter A mixture of flour, liquid, and that form when wheat flour is mixed with fermented for a minimum of 2 hours, it
sometimes leaven that can be thick or thin, water and kneaded. It causes a bread dough produces a bread with a light, springy
but is of spooning or pouring consistency. to rise by trapping the carbon dioxide given off texture and a nutty aroma.
by the yeast and creates a network of bubbles
Biga Italian for a starter. Traditionally in the crumb of the baked loaf. Proofing Also referred to as the final rise, this
fermented for a minimum of 12 hours, it is the process during which a shaped dough is
produces a bread with a lightly fermented Grease To prepare a bread pan or mold by left to rise just before baking.
taste and an open, porous texture. brushing the inside with oil or butter before
adding a dough or batter. This prevents the Prosciutto Also sold under the name Parma
Boule French for ball, referring to a round bread from sticking during baking. ham, this unsmoked Italian ham has been
loaf of white bread also called miche. pressed, salt cured, and air dried.
Herbes de Provence An aromatic blend of
Bread dough A mixture of flour, liquid, dried herbs that grow in the Provence region Punch down To deflate a fully risen dough by
and often leaven, used to make bread. The of France. It usually includes thyme, rosemary, pressing down on it and literally forcing the air
required consistency of bread dough varies bay, basil, savory, marjoram, lavender, and out before the dough is shaped.
according to the recipe instructions and the fennel seeds. It is available in specialty stores
desired texture and appearance of the loaf, and some supermarkets. Rising The process during which a dough is
but it should generally be stiff enough to aerated by carbon dioxide produced by a
work easily with the hands. Jalapeño A dark green variety of chili that may leavening agent before and during baking,
vary from medium hot to very hot in flavor. It causing it to grow in volume.
Brioche Traditional French bread dough measures about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide,
enriched with butter and eggs. The classic and has a rounded tip. Sift To pass dry ingredients through a fine
shape, called Brioche à Tête, is round and strainer in order to incorporate air and to
has a fluted base and a topknot. Key A term used to describe the final seam make them lighter and more even in texture.
produced in a piece of dough once it has been
Brot The German word for bread. folded and shaped into a loaf. Slash To make incisions in the surface of a
risen dough before baking to allow the loaf
Buttermilk An ingredient made by adding Kirsch A clear fruit brandy distilled from to rise and expand as it bakes without tearing
special bacteria to skim milk, giving it a whole cherries. Used both as a digestive or cracking the outer crust.
slightly thick texture and tangy flavor. liqueur and as a flavoring in baking.
If unavailable, it can be replaced with Sourdough, Sourdough bread A bread with a
the following mixture: Knead To work a dough by rhythmically slightly sour, tangy flavor created by using
1 tablespoon lemon juice or cider vinegar, pushing, stretching, and folding it in order a sourdough starter as the leaven.
plus enough skim milk to make up to develop the gluten in the flour.
1 cup. Stir, then let stand for 5 minutes. This Sourdough starter (see Starter) A starter that
will yield 1 cup. Leaven An agent such as yeast or baking has been left to ferment for at least 48 hours.
powder that is added to baked goods to lighten It produces a bread with a distinctive, slightly
Chafe To shape a risen dough into a round the texture and increase the volume. sour, tangy flavor.
by using your hands to apply a downward
pressure to the sides of the dough while Leavened A word describing baked goods that Sponging The process by which a period of
rotating it at the base. contain a rising agent. fermentation is added during the mixing stage,
to produce a bread with a light crumb and
Crust The hardened outer layer of, most Nigella seeds Available in Middle Eastern, a faintly yeasty aroma.
commonly, a cooked food such as bread. Indian, and other specialty stores, these tiny
black seeds with a nutty flavor are sometimes Star anise Available in Asian and specialty
Dough A stiff but pliable mixture of flour, called black onion seeds. stores, this star-shaped spice has a strong,
liquid, and other ingredients. This mixture sweet aniseed flavor.
remains a dough until it has been baked. Orange flower water Distilled from fresh
orange blossoms, this perfumed flavoring is Starter A mixture of flour, yeast, and water
Fermentation A process during which available in Middle Eastern, Indian, and other left to ferment for 2 hours to 5 days, and up to
carbohydrates go through a chemical change specialty stores. 2 weeks. It is used as an alternative method for
caused by enzymes produced from bacteria, leavening doughs. It is added to the flour at the
microorganisms, or yeast. Pain The French word for bread. mixing stage when making a bread dough and
affects the taste and the texture of the bread.
Flaxseeds Also known as linseeds, these tiny, Pan The Spanish word for bread.
oval, shiny brown seeds are rich in nutrients Unleavened A word describing baked foods
and are available from health-food stores. Pane The Italian word for bread. that contain no rising agent.

164

INDEX

Page numbers in bold denote recipes Breadcrumbs 160 Schiacciata con le Cipolle Rosse e Cranberry Nut Muffins 140
breadmaking problems 162–3 Formaggio (Schiacciata with cream of tartar 32
A breadsticks Roasted Red Onions and Croutes (Crostini) 161
Cheese) 108 Croutons 161
all-purpose flour 29 Grissini Torinesi (Italian crown loaves
Almond Indian Flat Bread 128 Breadsticks) 80 Stromboli (Rolled Hearth Bread
altitude, effect on baking 9 Filled with Smoked Couronne (Crown or Ring Loaf) 85
apple gallery 15 Mozzarella and Basil) 106 gallery 12
Salzstangen (Salted shaping 56
Old English Cheese & Apple gallery 14
Loaf 144 Breadsticks) 82 Swedish Dill Bread 122 Pulla (Finnish Crown Loaf) 150
Brioche 112–13 Tex-Mex Skillet Corn Bread 142–3 gallery 18
appliances see bread machines; food Torta al Testo (“Bread of the
processors; mixers chapter opener 110–11 D
Flavored 113 Tile”) 133
Armenian Flat Bread 134 Brioche à Tête 113 Torta al Testo con Prosciutto e Daktyla 75
Australian Damper Bread 141 chapter opener 110–11 Damper Bread, Australian 141
Brioche Nanterre 113 Formaggio (Golden Cheese Dark Chocolate Bread 102
B Broa 78 and Ham Bread) 116 Decorative Buttermilk Rolls 121
gallery 19 defrosting bread 69
Badami Nan 128 Brown Bread, Ballymaloe 78 chemical leavens 32
Bagels 81 Brown Bread Ice Cream 158 chickpea flour 31 “old dough” 43
Baguette 79 brown flour 29 Chili Bread 96 Diced Croutons 161
brown rice flour 31 chocolate Dill Bread, Swedish 122
gallery 13 Bruschetta 156 doneness, testing for 65
shaping 53 buckwheat flour 31 Chocolate Bread Pudding 159 dough consistency, achieving
Baker’s Knot Rolls 119 Buttered Crumbs 160 Dark Chocolate Bread 102
baking and baking stages 64–5 buttermilk 32 Prune & Chocolate Bread 124–5 correct 162
baking powder 32 Classic Corn Bread 142 Triple Chocolate and Hazelnut Dresdner Christstollen 148
baking soda 32 Fan Tans (Decorative Buttermilk
Ballymaloe Brown Bread 78 Bread 124 chapter opener 146–7
Banana Bread, Jamaican 140 Rolls) 121 Christmas Bread, Milanese 155 Dry Breadcrumbs 160
Baps, Scots 77 gallery 20 Christmas Stollen 148 dry yeast 32
gallery 17 Irish Soda Bread 141
Barbari 136 gallery 17 chapter opener 146–7 preparing and using 40
gallery 23 soured milk substitute 141, 164 Ciabatta 90–1
barley 30 E
Barley Bread 74 C gallery 15
Basic White Bread 72 Ciambella Mandorlata 153 “Ear of Wheat” 79
Beet Bread 96 cake yeast 32 Cinnamon Raisin Bread 123 Easter Bread, Ring-shaped, with
biga preparing and using 41
effect on bread 84 gallery 21 Nut Brittle 153
preparation 42 caraway seeds Classic Corn Bread 142 egg wash 58
Bloomer 76 Onion and Caraway Bread 96 Cloverleaf Rolls 119 Ekmek 129
gallery 16 Rye Bread with Caraway Seeds 92 Coiled Challah 150 enriching ingredients 33
Blueberry Nut Muffins 140 common breadmaking
Bolo-rei 154 Carrot Bread 96 adding to dough 112
gallery 25 chapter opener 94–5 problems 162–3 Epiphany Bread 154
Bow Knot Rolls 119 consistency of dough, achieving equipment 34–7
braiding 57 Carta da Musica 130–1
Bread & Butter Pudding 159 ceramic and terra-cotta tiles 36 correct 162 F
bread flour 29 cooling bread 65
Bread Loops, Spanish 80 use in oven 63 corn 30 Fan Tans 121
bread machines 66–7 cereal grains 30 corn breads gallery 20
“Bread of the Dead” 152 chafing 51
“Bread of the Tile” 133 Challah 150–1 Broa (Portuguese Corn Bread) 78 Fig Bread with Almonds 115
bread puddings gallery 19 Filled Italian Hearth Bread 104–5
Bread & Butter Pudding 159 gallery 25 Finnish Crown Loaf 150
Chocolate Bread Pudding 159 Chapelure, La 160 Classic Corn Bread 142 Flavored Brioche 113
Bread Rolls 73 Chapelure à la Provençale 160 Corn Sticks 142 flours
Bread Soup with Tomato and cheese
gallery 21 effect on breadmaking process 8
Leeks 156 Cheese Croutes 161 Daktyla (Greek Village Bread) 75 low- and nongluten 31
Focaccia Farcita (Filled Italian Tex-Mex Skillet Corn Bread 142–3 mixing 29
cornmeal flour 31 nonwheat 30–1
Hearth Bread) 104–5 Cottage Loaf 73 wheat 28–9
Focaccia with Tomato, Arugula, gallery 17
Country Bread, Grilled, with Garlic
and Mozzarella 104
Old English Cheese & Apple and Olive Oil 156
Country Bread, Turkish 129
Loaf 144 Country Oatmeal Bread 74
Pain au Fromage (Cheese Hearth Country-style Rye Bread, German 92
Couronne 85
Bread) 98
gallery 12
shaping 56
Cracked Grain Bread 100
Cranberry Nut Loaf 140

165

—INDEX—

Focaccia alla Salvia 107 Stromboli (Rolled Hearth Bread glazing 58–9 O
Focaccia con Olive 107 Filled with Smoked mixing technique 44–5
Focaccia Farcita 104–5 Mozzarella and Basil) 106 temperature 41 Oaten Yogurt Bread 145
Focaccia with Tomato, Arugula, types 32 Oatmeal Bread, Country 74
gallery 14 low-gluten flours 31 Oatmeal Rolls 74
and Mozzarella 104 heavy-duty mixers 35 oats 30
food processors 35 M “old dough”
using 49
using 48 Herb Bread 96 Mantovana 114 method 43
Fougasse 149 measuring ingredients recipe 86
chapter opener 94 Old English Cheese & Apple Loaf 144
gallery 13 Herbed Yogurt Bread 145 equipment 34 olive oil
Fougasse aux Herbes 149 high-altitude baking 9 importance of accuracy 40 Bruschetta (Grilled Country Bread
freezing and storing Honey-spice Bread, French 144 successful breadmaking 40
“Household” Bread, Italian 89 Melba Toast 161 with Garlic and Olive Oil)
bread and dough 68–9 Huffkins, Kentish 77 Middle Eastern Bread Pouch 134 156
“old dough” 43 Hungarian Potato Bread 103 Milanese Christmas Bread 155
French Country-style Bread with Milk Bread, Victorian 76 Mantovana (Olive Oil Bread from
gallery 19 gallery 16 Mantua) 114
a Sourdough Starter 84–5 millet flour 31
French Honey-spice Bread 144 I milling process 28 Pain Tunisien (Tunisian Semolina
French Rye Bread 93 mixers, heavy-duty 35 and Olive Oil Bread) 135
French Stick 79 Ice Cream, Brown Bread 158 using 49
French Toast 158 ice cubes 63 mixing gallery 23
Fresh Breadcrumbs 160 ingredients 28–33 equipment 34 olives
freshening stale bread 68 instant yeast 32 problem solving 162
technique 44–5 Focaccia con Olive (Hearth Bread
G preparing and using 40 using appliances 48–9 with Olives) 107
Irish Soda Bread 141 Monastery Bread see Country
Garlic Croutes 161 Pain aux Olives (Olive Hearth
Garlic Croutons 161 gallery 17 Oatmeal Bread Bread) 98
German Country-style Rye Italian Breadsticks 80 molds and pans 36–7
Italian Flat Bread 132 muffins onions
Bread 92 Italian Hearth Bread, Filled 104–5 Onion and Caraway Bread 96
German Party Bread 120 Italian Hearth Bread with Olives 107 Blueberry Nut Muffins 140 Pane con Pomodori e Cipolle
glazing 58–9 Italian Hearth Bread with Sage 107 chapter opener 138–9 Rosse (Tomato and Red
gluten 28 Italian “Household” Bread 89 Cranberry Nut Muffins 140 Onion Bread) 101
Italian “Slipper” Bread 90–1 Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 140 Schiacciata con le Cipolle Rosse e
low- and nongluten flours 31 Multigrain Bread 100 Formaggio (Schiacciata with
Golden Cheese and Ham JK Multigrain Rolls 100 Roasted Red Onions and
“Music Paper” Bread 130–1 Cheese) 108
Bread 116 Jamaican Banana Bread 140 Swedish Dill Bread 122
granary flour 29 Jewish Sabbath Bread 150–1 N
Granary Pan Loaf 73 Kentish Huffkins 77 ovens
Khubz see Pita Nan 128 applying steam 63
gallery 17 kneading chapter opener 126–7 familiarity with 64
Greek Village Bread 75
Grilled Country Bread with Garlic adding coarse ingredients 99 nongluten flours 31 P
basic technique 46–7 nonwheat flours 30–1
and Olive Oil 156 problem solving 162 nuts Pain Amuse-gueule 113
Grissini Torinesi 80 using appliances 48–9 Pain au Fromage 98
wet doughs 88 Badami Nan (Almond Indian Flat Pain aux Noix 99
gallery 15 Bread) 128 Pain aux Olives 98
L Pain aux Pruneaux et Noisette 99
H Blueberry Nut Muffins 140 Pain de Campagne 84–5
La Chapelure 160 Ciambella Mandorlata (Ring-
hearth breads La Panure 160 gallery 13
Focaccia alla Salvia Landbrot 92 shaped Easter Bread with Pain de Seigle 93
(Italian Hearth Bread with Nut Brittle) 153
Sage) 107 gallery 18 gallery 12
Focaccia con Olive (Hearth Lavash 134 Cranberry Nut Loaf 140 Pain d’Epi 79
Bread with Olives) 107 Cranberry Nut Muffins 140 Pain d’Epice 144
Focaccia Farcita (Filled Italian gallery 22 Nutty Yogurt Bread 145 Pain Ordinaire 72
Hearth Bread) 104–5 leavens 32 Pain aux Noix (Walnut Bread) 99 Pain Perdu 158
Focaccia with Tomato, Arugula, leeks Pain aux Pruneaux et Noisette Pain Tordu 85
and Mozzarella 104
Fougasse (Provençal Hearth Pappa al Pomodoro con Porri (Prune and Hazelnut gallery 13
Bread) 149 (Bread Soup with Tomato Bread) 99 Pain Tunisien 135
gallery 13 and Leeks) 156
Fougasse aux Herbes (Fougasse Pane ai Fichi con Mandorle gallery 23
with Herbs) 149 Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 140 (Fig Bread with Pain Viennois 117
Pain au Fromage (Cheese Hearth liquids Almonds) 115 Pan de Muerto 152
Bread) 98
Pain aux Olives (Olive Hearth adjusting amount required 8 Triple Chocolate and Hazelnut gallery 24
Bread) 98 Bread 124 pan loaves

Granary Pan Loaf 73
gallery 17

shaping 53
slashing 62

166

—INDEX—

Pane ai Fichi con Mandorle 115 Schiacciata con l’Uva (Schiacciata Scots Baps 77 terra-cotta and ceramic tiles 36
Pane di Casalingo 89 with Black Grapes and gallery 17 use in oven 63
Pane con Pomodori e Cipolle Wine-soaked Raisins) 109
Seed Bread, South African 102 Tex-Mex Skillet Corn Bread 142–3
Rosse 101 gallery 14 Seeded Bread Pouch, Turkish 137 tiles 36
Pane di Prato 88 Ring Loaf 85 Seeded German Rye Bread 92
Pane di Semola 87 Ring-shaped Easter Bread with Nut Seeded Indian Flat Bread 128 use in oven 63
Panettone 155 Seeded Persian Bread, Spicy 136 Toast
Brittle 153 Seeded Yogurt Bread 145
gallery 24 rising 50–1 semolina breads French 158
Pane di Ramerino 115 Melba 161
equipment 34 Grissini Torinesi (Italian tomatoes
gallery 15 proofing 57 Breadsticks) 80 Focaccia with Tomato, Arugula,
pans and molds 36–7 test for complete rising 163
Panure, La 160 Rolled Hearth Bread Filled with gallery 15 and Mozzarella 104
Panure à la Milanaise 160 Pain Tunisien (Tunisian Pane con Pomodori e Cipolle
Panzanella 157 Smoked Mozzarella and
Pappa al Pomodoro con Porri 156 Basil 106 Semolina and Olive Oil Rosse (Tomato and Red
Parker House Rolls 118 Bread) 135 Onion Bread) 101
rolls
gallery 20 Baker’s Knot Rolls 119 gallery 23 Panzanella (Tuscan Bread and
Partybrot 120 Bow Knot Rolls 119 Pane di Semola (Semolina Tomato Salad) 157
Cloverleaf Rolls 119
gallery 19 Fan Tans (Decorative Buttermilk Bread) 87 Pappa al Pomodoro con Porri
Persian Bread, Spicy Seeded 136 Rolls) 121 Picos (Spanish Bread Loops) 80 (Bread Soup with Tomato
Persian Sesame Bread 136 gallery 20 semolina flours 29 and Leeks) 156
Petits Pains 73 Kentish Huffkins 77 Sesame Bread, Persian 136
Piadina 132 Multigrain Rolls 100 Shaped Croutons 161 topping and toppings 60–1
Picos 80 Oatmeal Rolls 74 shaping and proofing 52–7 Torta al Testo 133
Pide 137 Parker House Rolls 118 Skillet Corn Bread, Tex-Mex 142–3 Torta al Testo con Prosciutto e
gallery 20 slashing loaves 62
gallery 22 Partybrot (German Party slicing bread 65 Formaggio 116
Pistolets 79 Bread) 120 “Slipper” Bread, Italian 90–1 Traditional Saltless Tuscan
gallery 19 Snail Rolls 119
gallery 12 Petits Pains (Bread Rolls) 73 Soda Bread, Irish 141 Bread 88
Pita 134 Pistolets (Split Rolls) 79 gallery 17 Triple Chocolate and Hazelnut
gallery 12 Soft Dinner Rolls 119
gallery 23 Scots Baps 77 soups Bread 124
Plain White Bread 72 gallery 17 Pappa al Pomodoro con Porri Tunisian Semolina and Olive Oil
poolish shaping 55
Snail Rolls 119 (Bread Soup with Tomato Bread 135
effect on bread 84 Soft Dinner Rolls 119 and Leeks) 156 Turkish Country Bread 129
preparation 42 Twist Rolls 119 Turkish Seeded Bread Pouch 137
Portuguese Corn Bread 78 sourdough starters 43 Tuscan Bread, Traditional
Potato Bread, Hungarian 103 Rosemary Raisin Bread 115 South African Seed Bread 102
gallery 19 rye 30 Spanish Bread Loops 80 Saltless 88
potato flour 31 rye breads spelt flour 31 Tuscan Bread and Tomato
Pretzels 82–3 Spicy Seeded Persian Bread 136
problem solving 162–3 Landbrot (German Country-style Spinach Bread 96 Salad 157
proofing 57 Rye Bread) 92 Twist Rolls 119
protein content, wheat 28 chapter opener 94
Provençal Hearth Bread 149 gallery 18 Split Rolls 79 UVW
prunes Pain de Seigle (French Rye sponge method 44–5
Pain aux Pruneaux et Noisette stale bread, freshening 68 Victorian Milk Bread 76
Bread) 93 starters, breadmaking 42–3 gallery 16
(Prune and Hazelnut gallery 12 steam in the oven 63
Bread) 99 Rye Bread with Caraway Seeds 92 Stollen Vienna Bread 117
Seeded German Rye Bread 92 Walnut Bread 99
Prune & Chocolate Bread 124–5 chapter opener 146–7 water spray 36
puddings S Dresdner Christstollen (Christmas
use in oven 63
Bread & Butter Pudding 159 Sabbath Bread, Jewish 150–1 Stollen) 148 water temperature 41
Chocolate Bread Pudding 159 Sada Nan 128 storing and freezing wheat flours 28–9
Pulla 150 Salted Breadsticks 82 White Bread, Basic 72
gallery 18 Saltless Tuscan Bread, Traditional 88 bread and dough 68–9 whole-wheat flour 29
Pumpkin Bread 97 salts 33 “old dough” 43 Whole-wheat Pita 134
punching down 51 Salzbrezeln 82–3 Stromboli 106
Punjabi Flat Bread 128 Salzstangen 82 gallery 14 YZ
chapter opener 126–7 San Francisco Sourdough 86 sugars 33
Sunflower and Honey Bread 100 Yankee Buttermilk Rolls 121
R gallery 20 Swedish Dill Bread 122 yeasts
Schiacciata con le Cipolle Rosse e Swiss Braided Loaf 117
raisin breads preparing and using 40–1
Cinnamon Raisin Bread 123 Formaggio 108 T types 32
gallery 21 Schiacciata con l’Uva 109 yogurt 32
Pane di Ramerino (Rosemary temperature Yogurt Bread, Herbed 145
Raisin Bread) 115 gallery 14 during breadmaking process 9 Yogurt Bread, Nutty 145
gallery 15 scissor cuts 62 water 41 Yogurt Bread, Oaten 145
Yogurt Bread, Seeded 145
Zopf 117

167

USEFUL ADDRESSES

UNITED STATES Kalustyan’s Indian Herbs & Spices Specialty Breadmaking Equipment Information on Flour &
Flour Suppliers/Specialty Foods 123 Lexington Avenue The Baker’s Store (King Arthur Flour) Breadmaking
The Baker’s Store (King Arthur Flour) New York, NY 10016 see first entry under Specialty Flour Bread Bakers Guild of America
P. O. Box 876 T: (212) 685-3451/F: (212) 683-8458 P. O. Box 22254
Norwich, VT 05055 www.kalustyans.com Bridge Kitchenware Pittsburgh, PA 15222
T: (800) 827-6836 214 East 52nd Street T: (412) 322–8275
www.kingarthurflour.com Mountain Tops Milling New York, NY 10022
23324 Valley High Road T: (800) BRIDGE-K or (212) 838-1901 CANADA
C.F. Resources Morrison, CO 80465 Flour Suppliers
P. O. Box 405 T: (888) 303-4659 Chef’s Catalog Rudolph Sales Inc.
Kit Carson, CO 80825 www.mountaintopsmilling.com P. O. Box 620048 1230 Old Innes Road
T: (719) 962-3228 Dallas TX 75262 Ottawa, Ontario K1B 3V3
www.cfamilyresources.com Pamela’s Products T: (800) 338-3232 T: (613) 747-8448
156 Utah Avenue
Crusoe Island South San Francisco, CA 94080 Williams–Sonoma Hilton Whole Grain Millers
267 Route 89 South T: (415) 952-4546 P. O. Box 7456 R. R. # 2, Staffa,
Savannah, NY 13146 San Francisco, CA 94120 Ontario N0K 1Y0
T: (800) 724-2233 Pear Tree Specialties T: (800) 541-2233 or (415) 421-7900 T: (800) 835-9831 or (519) 345-2582
P.O. Box 684
Great Grains Milling Company Easton, PA 18044 MetroKitchen, Inc. Specialty Breadmaking Equipment
Box 427 T: (800) 914-7063 1726 Taylor Street BMS Distributors
Scobey, MT 59263 www.pearspec.com Atlanta, GA 30318 8491 Brooklyn, Kentville
T: (406) 783-5588 T: (888) 892-3311 or (404) 367-9993 Nova Scotia B4N 3W5
Stone Ground Mills, Inc. www.metrokitchen.com T: (902) 679-0008
Hodgson Mills, Inc. P.O. Box 53426 (equipment and flour)
1203 W. Niccum Avenue Bellevue, WA 98015 Dorothy McNett’s Place
Effingham, IL 62401 T: (888) 677-3478 800 San Benito Street Ravensburg Bakery Supplies Ltd.
T: (800) 347-0105/F: (217) 347-0198 www.Stonegroundmills.com Hollister, CA 95023 # 114–1655 Broadway Street
www.Hodgsonmill.com T: (831) 637-6444/F: (831) 637-5274 Port Coquitlam
Walnut Acres www.happycookers.com British Columbia V3C 2M7
Honeyville Grain, Inc. Penn’s Creek, PA 17862 T: (604) 942-4656
11600 Dayton Drive T: (800) 433-3998 Pastry Chef Central, Inc.
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 1355 W. Palmetto Park Rd., Suite 302 Wheatland Health Kitchens Inc.
T: (909) 980-9500/F: (909) 980-6503 Weisenberger Mills Boca Raton, FL 33486-3303 Bosch Kitchen Appliance Center
www.honeyvillegrain.com P. O. Box 215 T: (561) 999-9483/F: (561) 999-1282 105–2800 Pembina Highway
2545 Weisenberger Road www.pastrychef.com Winnipeg, Manitoba R3T 5P3
Midway, KY 40347 T: (204) 275-2617
T: (606) 254-5282

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS driving passion for this book and PUBLISHER’S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
everything to do with breadmaking. Dorling Kindersley would like to thank
AUTHORS’ ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Finally, special thanks to my wife, Rose, Neff U.K. Ltd. and Kitchen Aid for the
It may take only a little time to make an because she made this book not just use of their appliances, Shipton Mills
honest loaf, but this book would not have possible, but the ultimate of its kind. for its flour and plant specimens, The
been possible without the help, patience, Flour Advisory Board for help with flour
understanding, passion, and support of Ursula Ferrigno would like to thank research, Nicola Nieburg for editorial
a number of people. Julia Pemberton Hellums for her assistance, Susan Bosanko for the index,
outstanding editing and dedication Christine Rista for picture research, and
Eric Treuille would like to thank to our book. I am thrilled for her total makeup artist Sue Sian.
Julia Pemberton Hellums for keeping involvement every step of the way, and
everything together and for invaluable for her encouragement and persistence for DK Publishing, Inc., would like to thank
information about American breads a great result. Rosie Kindersley, not only Mary Sutherland, Joan Whitman, and,
and flours, Julia Brock for helping with for her excellent eye but also for her especially, Barbara Minton for testing the
German breads, and Didier Lascaze, my determination for this book to be better recipes and sharing the results.
wonderful traditional baker and friend than any other; her researching and energy
in Cahors, for helping me immeasurably are boundless. Ian O’Leary: it has been Picture Credits
to understand real breadmaking. Heidi so delightful working with him in his Key to pictures: t = top, c = center,
Lascelles, who is always there for us with fabulous studio and with Emma, his b = bottom, l = left, r = right.
support, love, and enthusiasm for all assistant—his photographs are amazing.
enterprises at Books for Cooks, whether Hilary Krag and Gurinder Purewall, for The publisher would like to thank the
it be late-night recipe testing and tasting, their great design work. My family, as following for their kind permission to
baking workshops, or teaching nursery- always, for their power of listening and reproduce the following photographs:
school children the basics of breadmaking. advice and help with research. My man in Musée de la Ville de Paris, Musée
Peter and Juliet Kindersley for the use Rome for just being him, and his help with Carnavalet, Paris 12tl; Mary Evans Picture
of their kitchen, weekend after weekend, my dreadful spelling. Kate O’Donnel for Library 16tl; AKG London 18tl; Dover
for bringing us back breads from their recipe testing so diligently in the heat of Publications 22tl; Ann Ronan Picture
travels all over the world, and for allowing the summer. Books for Cooks for allowing Library 24tl. Photography by Ian O’Leary,
the collaboration of the “ladies” in the me to be there for all the fun and support, except: David Murray and Jules Selmes
arduous task of quality control. The DK particularly Heidi Lascelles, the owner. 27c; Martin Cameron 34tr; Clive Streeter
and studio teams for their creativity, My co-author for his determination and 96cl, 101r; Steve Gorton 99cl; Dave King
energy, and good will in this especially amazing food-styling eye. 99cl, 115cr; Philip Dowell 144br.
challenging project. Ursula for never
letting us down with her enthusiasm and

168



Become a master baker bread
in your own home with
this practical guide to
baking by hand or
bread-machine from
French chef Eric
Treuille and Italian
cooking expert
Ursula Ferrigno.

• More than 100
recipes drawn from
baking traditions
around the world

• Essential techniques
explained with clear
step-by-step photography

• Advice on choosing
ingredients for the
best results

•Problem solving
hints and tips

“This is one excellent
bread book.”

—San Francisco Chronicle

Printed in Hong Kong

Discover more at

www.dk.com