— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —
PAIN AUX NOIX
WA L N U T B R E A D
Walnut bread goes INGREDIENTS 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl To begin
and cover with a dish towel. Sponge method
especially well with goat 2 tsp dry yeast Let rise until doubled in size, about Time: 20 minutes
cheese as well as the 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then let (see page 44)
blue-veined sheeps-milk 11⁄2 cups water rest for 10 minutes.
cheese, Roquefort. Any Rising
leftovers can be toasted 2 cups bread flour 6 Shape the dough into an oblong 11⁄2–2 hours
to make Croutes (see loaf, about 10 inches long (see (see pages 50–51)
page 161) for a warm 1 cup rye flour page 52). Place the shaped dough on
goat cheese salad. a floured baking sheet; cover with a Proofing
1cup whole-wheat flour dish towel. Proof until doubled in 45 minutes
size, about 45 minutes. (see page 57)II III
2 tsp salt VIII
7 Bake in the preheated oven Oven temperatureIX X
11⁄2 cups walnuts, roughly chopped for 45 minutes–1 hour, until the 400ºF IV
loaf is hollow sounding when tapped
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup underneath. Cool on a wire rack. BakingXI XII I
of the water in a bowl. Let stand •
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix
the flours and the salt in a bowl. VII VI V 45 minutes–1 hour
Make a well in the center and pour Steam optional
in the dissolved yeast. (see page 63)
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw VA R I AT I O N Yield
enough of the flour into the 1 loaf
dissolved yeast to form a thick paste. Pain aux Pruneaux et Noisette
Cover the bowl with a dish towel (Prune and Hazelnut Bread) Yeast alternative
and let “sponge” until frothy and • Make one quantity Pain aux 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
risen, about 20 minutes. Noix dough up to step 5, replacing (see page 41)
the walnuts with 1⁄2 cup each
3 Pour about half of the whole hazelnuts and quartered
remaining water into the well. dried prunes.
Mix in the flour. Stir in the reserved • Let the dough rise until doubled in
water, as needed, to form a firm, size, about 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down.
moist dough. • Shape the dough as directed in
step 6, then lightly press three whole
4 Turn out onto a floured work prunes in a row on top of the loaf
surface. Knead until smooth to decorate.
and elastic, about 10 minutes. Add • Proof until doubled in size, about
the walnuts at the end of kneading 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to
(see below left and below right). 400°F.
• Bake as directed in step 7.
KNEADING IN COARSE INGREDIENTS
In step 4, let the dough Then gently knead the
rest for about 5 minutes
so it will be easier to dough to evenly distribute
knead. Gently press the the ingredients, about
dough into a rectangle, 2–4 minutes. The dough
about 1 inch thick. will separate and look
Sprinkle the walnuts over crumbly before it comes
the surface. Fold the dough together to form a smooth
in half (see right). mass (see left).
99
—RECIPES—
M ULTIGRAIN B READ
INGREDIENTS 7 Bake in the preheated oven for Rising
40 minutes. Turn the loaf out 1 hour
2 tsp dry yeast of the pan, and return it to the oven, (see pages 50–51)
bottom side up, for 5 minutes.
11⁄4 cups water Cool on a wire rack. Proofing
30 minutes
21⁄4 cups bread flour VA R I AT I O N S (see page 57)
2⁄3 cup whole- Sunflower and Honey Bread Oven temperature
wheat flour • Make one quantity Multigrain 400ºF
Bread dough, replacing the ground
2⁄3 cup multigrain and cooked multigrain cereals BakingXI XII I
cereal, ground with 1 cup sunflower seeds and •
2 tablespoons wheat germ. Add
to the well as directed in step 2 and VII VI V 45 minutesII III
increase the amount of honey from Steam optionalVIII
MULTIGRAIN 2 tsp salt 2 to 3 tablespoons. (see page 63)IX X
ROLLS 2 tbsp sunflower oil • Continue as directed up to step 6. IV
Sprinkle the loaf with sunflower Yield
This healthy modern 2 tbsp honey seeds, instead of the oat flakes. 1 loaf
• Bake as directed in step 7.
American classic has a 11⁄3 cups cooked multigrain Yeast alternative
nutty flavor and a crunchy cereal, cooled Cracked Grain Bread 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
texture as a result of the • Put 1⁄2 cup each cracked buckwheat, (see page 41)
addition of seven ground oat flakes or rolled oats, for topping cracked wheat, and cracked rye in
and whole grains. Various a bowl; pour boiling water over to
brands of multigrain 1 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan cover. Let stand for 30 minutes until
cereal are available at with oil. Sprinkle the yeast into swollen, then drain.
health-food stores, but the water in a bowl. Let stand for 5 • Make one quantity Multigrain
you can mix your own. minutes; stir to dissolve. Bread dough, replacing the
The eight whole grains multigrain cereals with the cracked
used here are oats, brown 2 Mix the flours, ground grains, grains and 2 tablespoons flaxseeds.
rice, triticale (a hybrid and salt in a large bowl. Make • Continue as directed up to step
of wheat and rye), rye, a well in the center and pour in 6. Sprinkle the top of the loaf with
wheat, buckwheat, the dissolved yeast, oil, honey, and 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, instead
barley, and sesame seeds, cooked grains. Stir in the flour to of the oat flakes or rolled oats.
but millet, soybean seeds, form a stiff dough. • Bake as directed in step 7.
and flaxseeds are
other possibilities. 3 Turn the dough out onto a Multigrain Rolls
lightly floured work surface. • Make one quantity Multigrain
Knead the dough until glossy and Bread dough to step 5.
elastic, about 10 minutes. • Divide it into eight
equal pieces and shape into
4 Put the dough in a large, round rolls (see page 55).
lightly oiled bowl. Turn the • Place on a greased baking
dough to coat with the oil and cover sheet; cover with a dish
with a dish towel. Let rise until towel. Proof until doubled
doubled in size, about 1 hour. in size, about 40 minutes.
Punch down the dough, then let • Preheat the oven to
rest for 10 minutes. 400°F. Use scissors to snip
an “X” in each roll (see page 62).
5 Shape the dough for a loaf pan Top the rolls as directed in step 6,
(see page 53) and place in the then bake for 30 minutes.
pan, seam side down. Cover loosely
with a dish towel. Proof until doubled
in size, about 30 minutes.
6 Brush the top of the loaf with
water and sprinkle with the oat
flakes or rolled oats.
100
— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —
PANE CON POMODORI
E CIPOLLE ROSSE
TOMATO AND RED ONION BREAD
This robustly flavored INGREDIENTS 3 To skin the tomatoes, immerse II IIITo begin
them in boiling water for VIII Sponge method
loaf originated in Tropea 31⁄2 tsp dry yeast 1 minute. Score the skin with a knife Time: 1 hourIX X
in the southern Italian and peel it away. Cut the tomatoes in (see page 44)IV
region of Calabria, where 2⁄3 cup water half, remove the cores, scoop out the
tomatoes and onions seeds, and roughly chop the flesh. Rising
flourish, and strong, 4 cups bread flour Reserve the flesh only. 1 hour
peppery dishes are (see pages 50–51)
favored. Ripe, full-flavored 2 tsp salt 4 Heat the olive oil in a pan, then
tomatoes are essential to add the tomatoes, sliced onions, Proofing
the success of this recipe. 1lb ripe tomatoes oregano, and red pepper flakes. 35–45 minutes
Choose firm, red Cover the pan and cook gently for (see page 57)
tomatoes or leave them 1 tbsp olive oil 10 minutes. Transfer the tomato
stem side down on a mixture to a bowl and let cool. Oven temperature
window sill to ripen. 2 red onions, halved and 400ºF
Store ripe tomatoes in a finely sliced 5 Stir the cooled tomato mixture
dark, cool place. Never into the fermented sponge. Mix BakingXI XII I
refrigerate tomatoes—cold 3 tsp chopped fresh oregano in the flour to make a soft, sticky •
temperatures make the dough. The moisture content of the
flesh pulpy and destroy 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes tomatoes will affect the consistency. VII VI V 45 minutes
the tomato flavor. Add flour if the dough is too wet. Steam optional
1 Sprinkle the yeast into the (see page 63)
PANE CON POMODORI E water in a bowl. Let stand for 6 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
CIPOLLE ROSSE 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the floured work surface. Knead until Yield
flour and salt in a large bowl. Make silky and supple, about 10 minutes. 1 loaf
a well in the center of the flour and
pour in the dissolved yeast. 7 Put the dough in a lightly oiled Yeast alternative
bowl and cover with a dish 13⁄4 cakes
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw towel. Let rise until doubled in size, (0.6oz-sized) yeast
enough of the flour into the about 1 hour. Punch down and chafe, (see page 41)
dissolved yeast to form a thick paste. 5 minutes (see page 51), then let rest
Cover the bowl with a dish towel and for about 10 minutes.
let “sponge” until frothy and risen,
about 1 hour.
8 Shape the dough into a
round loaf (see page 54).
Place on an oiled baking
sheet and cover with
a dish towel. Proof
until doubled
in size, about
35–45 minutes.
9 Bake in the
preheated
oven for 45 minutes,
until golden and
hollow sounding when
tapped underneath.
Cool on a wire rack.
—RECIPES—
DARK CHOCOLATE BREAD
A portion of the flour INGREDIENTS 3 Turn the dough out onto a Rising
lightly floured work surface. 1 hour
is replaced with cocoa 2 tsp dry yeast Knead until smooth, silky, and (see pages 50–51)
to produce this deeply 12⁄3 cups water elastic, about 10 minutes.
savory, bittersweet bread. 4 tbsp sugar Proofing
This chocolate bread is the 2 2/3 cups bread flour 4 Put the dough in a clean bowl; 45 minutes
perfect accompaniment 11⁄4 cups cocoa powder cover with a dish towel. Let rise (see page 57)
to a rich winter stew until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
of beef or game. 11/2 tsp salt Punch down the dough, then let rest Oven temperature
for 10 minutes. 425ºF
XI XII I II III
5 Shape the dough into a round •VIII Baking
1Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup loaf (see page 54). Place on a IX X 45 minutes
of the water in a bowl. Let lightly floured baking sheet and VII VI V IV Steam optional
stand for 5 minutes, then add cover with a dish towel. Proof until (see page 63)
the sugar; stir to dissolve. doubled in size, about 45 minutes.
Sift the flour, cocoa, and salt Yield
together into a large bowl. 6 Dust the loaf with cocoa powder. 1 loaf
Make a well in the center and Use a series of slashes, 1⁄2 inch
pour in the dissolved yeast. deep, across the top of the loaf (see Yeast alternative
page 62) to make a pattern (see left). 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
Bake in the preheated oven for (see page 41)
45 minutes, until hollow sounding
2 Pour about half of the when tapped underneath. Cool on
remaining water into a wire rack.
the well. Mix in the flour from
the sides of the well. Stir in the
reserved water, as needed, to form
a stiff dough.
SOUTH AFRICAN SEED BREAD
This seed-packed, INGREDIENTS 2 Make a well in the center of ProofingII III
the flour mixture and pour in 1 hourVIII
super-healthy bread with unsalted butter, melted, to grease pan the dissolved yeast. Mix in the flour (see page 57)IX X
a nutty, cakey crumb and 3 tsp dry yeast from the sides of the well. Stir in the IV
a soft, golden crust is 12⁄3 cups water remaining water, as needed, to form Oven temperature
unique to South Africa. 4 tsp honey a soft, sticky dough that just begins 400ºF
It is a relatively quick to leave the sides of the bowl clean.
yeast bread to make since 3 cups whole-wheat flour BakingXI XII I
it requires no kneading 1 cup bread flour 3 Spoon the dough into the •
and only one rise after the greased pan using the back of
dough has been shaped. 3 tbsp each sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, the spoon to smooth it level. Proof 1 hourVII VI V
flaxseeds, poppy seeds, chopped mixed nuts until the dough has risen just above
the rim of the pan, about 1 hour. Yield
11/2 tsp salt 1 loaf
1 tbsp milk 4 Bake in the preheated oven
for 30 minutes, then reduce Yeast alternative
the oven to 350°F and bake for 11⁄2 cakes
30 minutes. The top of the bread (0.6oz-sized) yeast
will remain flat. Turn out onto (see page 41)
a wire rack to cool. Immediately
1 Grease an 8 x 4 x 21⁄2-inch loaf brush the top and sides of the loaf
pan with the butter. Sprinkle with milk.
the yeast into 11⁄4 cups of the water
in a bowl; add the honey. Let stand
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix
the flours, seeds, nuts, and salt in
a bowl.
102
— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —
HUNGARIAN POTATO BREAD
Adapted from George INGREDIENTS Mix in the flour thoroughly with a II IIITo begin
wooden spoon, adding the reserved VIII Sponge method
Lang’s book Cuisine of 2 medium-size floury potatoes, peeled cooking water, as needed, to form a IX X Time: 20 minutes
Hungary, this unusual (about 1lb) soft, moist dough. IV(see page 44)
bread is truly worth
making. We love its moist, 2 tsp dry yeast 5 Turn the dough out onto a Rising
springy crumb and earthy, lightly floured work surface. 2 hours
subtly spiced flavor. 23⁄4 cups bread flour Knead until smooth, shiny, and soft, (see pages 50–51)
During proofing, the loaf about 10 minutes.
will not rise as much as 11⁄2 tsp salt Proofing
most doughs because of 6 Put the dough in a clean bowl 30 minutes
the denseness of the 1⁄2 tsp caraway seeds and cover with a dish towel. (see page 57)
potatoes. However, once Let rise until doubled in size, about
the bread is placed in a 1 Boil the potatoes until soft, then 2 hours. Punch down, then let rest Oven temperature
hot oven, the moisture drain, reserving 3⁄4 cup of the for 10 minutes. 425ºF
in the potatoes will cause cooking water. Mash the potatoes
the loaf to expand thoroughly, pushing them through 7 Shape the dough into a smooth, BakingXI XII I
dramatically. a sieve or food mill to form 23⁄4 cups round loaf (see page 54). Place •
of smooth and fluffy mashed on a lightly floured baking sheet and
potatoes. Let the potatoes and cover with a dish towel. Proof until 1 hourVII VI V
cooking water cool until lukewarm. the dough is well risen and springs Steam optional
back slowly when gently pressed (see page 63)
2 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup plus with a finger, about 30 minutes.
2 tablespoons of the water in a Yield
bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir to 8 Dust the loaf with flour. Cut three 1 loaf
dissolve. Put the flour in a large parallel slashes, 1⁄2 inch deep,
bowl. Make a well in the center and across the top, then three slashes in Yeast alternative
pour in the dissolved yeast. the opposite direction to make a 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
crisscross pattern (see page 62). (see page 41)
3 Use a wooden spoon to draw
enough of the flour into the 9 Bake in the preheated oven for
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. 1 hour, until crusty and hollow
Cover the bowl with a dish towel sounding when tapped underneath.
and let “sponge” until frothy and Cool on a wire rack.
slightly risen, about 20 minutes.
4 Add the mashed potatoes, salt,
and caraway seeds to the well.
—RECIPES—
FOCACCIA FARCITA
FILLED ITALIAN HEARTH BREAD
This Italian bread got INGREDIENTS 6 Cover the dough loosely with a Rising II III
dish towel. Proof until doubled 11⁄2–2 hoursVIII
its name from the Latin 2 tsp dry yeast in size, about 30 minutes. IX X (see pages 50–51)
word focus, which means IV
“hearth.” The embers 11⁄4 cups water 7 Use your fingertips to gently Proofing
of the hearth are press into the surface of the 30 minutes
where Focaccia was 33⁄4 cups bread flour dough to form dimples about (see page 57)
traditionally baked. 1⁄2 inch deep. Sprinkle with the
Fillings and toppings 11⁄2 tsp salt coarse salt, rosemary leaves, and Oven temperature
for Focaccia are very 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. 400ºF
much a movable feast. 3 tbsp olive oil
Generally speaking, for the filling and topping 8 Bake in the preheated oven BakingXI XII I
Italian-style ingredients for 30–45 minutes, until golden. •
such as roasted peppers, 1⁄2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola Drizzle immediately with the
sun-dried tomatoes, salty remaining olive oil, and serve warm. VII VI V 30–45 minutes
olives, capers, fragrant 7oz mozzarella, sliced Steam optional
fresh herbs, grilled VA R I AT I O N (see page 63)
eggplants, or vine-ripened 1 handful of basil leaves
plum tomatoes will Focaccia with Tomato, Yield
complement this bread 1⁄2 tsp coarse salt Arugula, and Mozzarella 1 loaf
dough to perfection. • Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
Keep in mind that any 2 tbsp fresh rosemary leaves Place 1lb cherry tomatoes on a Yeast alternative
topping or filling must baking sheet and sprinkle with 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
be cooked in the same 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil, and season (see page 41)
time that it takes the with salt and pepper. Bake for
bread to bake. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1 cup 20 minutes.
Therefore, vegetables of the water in a bowl. Let • Cut 5oz mozzarella into cherry
have to be chopped stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. tomato-size pieces. Wash and dry
or sliced and partially Mix the flour and salt in a large 61⁄2 cups arugula leaves.
cooked by roasting or bowl. Make a well in the center of • Make one quantity Focaccia
parboiling before they the flour and pour in the dissolved Farcita dough, replacing the filling
can be used. yeast and the oil. in step 5 with the tomatoes,
mozzarella, and arugula.
2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the • Continue as directed in steps 6–8.
remaining water to form a soft,
sticky dough. Add more water,
1 tablespoon at a time, if needed.
3 Turn the dough out onto a
lightly floured work surface.
Knead until smooth, silky, and
elastic, about 10 minutes.
4 Put the dough in an oiled bowl SEALING IN THE FILLING
and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about To seal the filling, place the
11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down and divide second round of dough over
the dough into two equal pieces. the top of the filling. Seal
Chafe for 5 minutes (see page 51), the edges of the dough
then let rest for 10 minutes. by gently pinching them
together with your fingers.
5 To make the filling Roll out
each piece of dough into a
91⁄2-inch round. Place one round on
an oiled baking sheet. Arrange the
two cheeses and basil over the top,
then seal in the filling using the
second round (see right).
104
—RECIPES—
STROMBOLI
ROLLED HEARTH BREAD FILLED WITH SMOKED MOZZARELLA AND BASIL
Named after the volcanic INGREDIENTS 3 Turn the dough out onto a Rising II III
lightly floured work surface. 11⁄2–2 hoursVIII
island of Stromboli, 2 tsp dry yeast Knead until smooth, silky, and (see pages 50–51)IX X
located off the coast of 11⁄4 cups water elastic, about 10 minutes. IV
Sicily, this bread is filled 33⁄4 cups bread flour Oven temperature
with a delicious 4 Put the dough in a clean, oiled 400ºF
combination of smoked 11⁄2 tsp salt bowl and cover with a dish
and plain mozzarella. 3 tbsp olive oil towel. Let rise until doubled in size, BakingXI XII I
The cheeses erupt from the for the filling and topping 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down and chafe •
holes pierced in the rolled 11⁄2 cups chopped mozzarella for 5 minutes (see page 51), then let
Focaccia dough during 11⁄2 cups chopped smoked mozzarella rest for 10 minutes. 1 hourVII VI V
baking. Serve it still warm 1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped Steam optional
from the oven for the 1 handful of fresh basil leaves 5 Shape the dough into a 14-inch (see page 63)
most enjoyment. 3 tbsp olive oil x 8-inch rectangle. Cover with
a dish towel and let rest for Yield
10 minutes. 1 loaf
6 To make the filling and topping Yeast alternative
Spread the cheeses, garlic, and 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
basil leaves evenly over the dough. (see page 41)
Roll the dough like a Swiss roll,
1 tsp coarse salt starting at one of the shorter sides,
but without rolling too tightly.
3 sprigs rosemary, stems removed
1 tsp pepper
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1 cup
of the water in a bowl. Let stand
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve.
2 Mix the flour and salt in a large 7 Place on an oiled baking sheet.
bowl. Make a well in the center Use a skewer or a carving fork
and pour in the dissolved yeast and to pierce several holes through the
the oil. Mix in the flour from the dough to the baking sheet. Sprinkle
sides of the well. Stir in the reserved with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil,
water, as needed, to form a soft, salt, rosemary leaves, and pepper.
sticky dough.
8 Bake in the preheated oven for
1 hour, until golden. Cool slightly,
then drizzle with the remaining
olive oil.
106
— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —
FOCACCIA CON OLIVE
HEARTH BREAD WITH OLIVES
Focaccia originated in INGREDIENTS 6 Roll out the dough on a lightly II IIITo begin
floured work surface to form a VIII Sponge method
Genoa, but numerous 2 tsp dry yeast 91⁄2-inch round, 1⁄2 inch thick. Place Time: 20 minutesIX X
variations on the classic 3⁄4 cup water on an oiled baking sheet and cover (see page 44)IV
salt and olive oil Genoese 33⁄4 cups bread flour with a dish towel. Proof until Rising
hearth bread are found 11⁄2 tsp salt doubled in size, about 1 hour. 11⁄2–2 hours
all over Liguria. This 1⁄3 cup olive oil, (see pages 50–51)
recipe calls for the famous plus additional olive oil to finish 7 Use your fingertips to press into Proofing
olives, olive oil, and white 1⁄3 cup dry white wine the surface of the dough to form 1 hour
wine of the region – the 11⁄2 cups pitted black olives, dimples about 1⁄2 inch deep. (see page 57)
wine, in particular, adds coarsely chopped Sprinkle with the oregano and Oven temperature
another flavor dimension. 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves the remaining olives and thyme. 400ºF
This bread is best eaten 1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano BakingXI XII I
while still warm. 8 Bake in the preheated oven for
30 minutes, until golden brown •
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup and hollow sounding when tapped
of the water in a bowl. Let stand underneath. Sprinkle with additional VII VI V 30 minutes
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix oil immediately. Cool on a wire rack. Steam optional
the flour and salt in a large bowl. (see page 63)
Make a well in the center and pour VA R I AT I O N Yield
in the dissolved yeast. 1 loaf
Focaccia alla Salvia Yeast alternative
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw (Italian Hearth Bread with Sage) 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
enough of the flour into the • Make one quantity Focaccia con (see page 41)
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. Olive dough up to step 3.
Cover the bowl with a dish towel and • Add 20 chopped fresh sage leaves FOCACCIA
let “sponge” until frothy and risen, to the sponge with the oil and the ALLA SALVIA
about 20 minutes. wine in step 3. Mix in the flour and
stir in the water as directed.
3 Add the olive oil and the white • Continue as directed in steps 4–6.
wine to the well. Mix in the flour. • Dimple the dough as directed in
Stir in the remaining water, as needed, step 7 and replace the olives, thyme,
to form a soft, sticky dough. and oregano with 11⁄2 teaspoons coarse
salt, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and ten
4 Turn the dough out onto a fresh sage leaves.
lightly floured work surface. • Bake as directed in step 8.
Knead until smooth and elastic,
about 10 minutes. Work 3⁄4 cup
of the olives and 1 tablespoon
of the thyme into the dough
toward the end of kneading
(see page 99).
5 Put the dough in an oiled
bowl and cover with
a dish towel. Let rise until
doubled in size, 11⁄2–2 hours.
Punch down and chafe for
5 minutes (see page 51), then
let rest for 10 minutes.
107
—RECIPES—
SCHIACCIATA CON LE CIPOLLE
ROSSE E FORMAGGIO
SCHIACCIATA WITH ROASTED RED ONIONS AND CHEESE
Schiacciata, which INGREDIENTS 2 To make the dough Sprinkle II IIITo begin
the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of the VIII Starter
translates as “squashed” for the starter water. Let stand for 5 minutes; stir IX X Time: 12–36 hours
or “flattened,” is the 1⁄2 tsp dry yeast to dissolve. Mix the flour and the salt IV(see page 44)
word Florentines use to in a large bowl. Make a well in the
describe their version of 2⁄3 cup water center, pour in the dissolved yeast Rising
Genoese Focaccia. Sweet 1 cup bread flour and olive oil, then add the starter. 11⁄2–2 hours
roasted red onions and for the dough (see pages 50–51)
sharp Gruyère cheese 11⁄2 tsp dry yeast 3 Mix in the flour. Stir in the
make a scrumptious 1 cup plus 2 tbsp water remaining water, as needed, Proofing
topping for this light, 23⁄4 cups bread flour to form a soft, sticky dough. Add 30 minutes
airy Focaccia dough. extra water, 1 tablespoon at a time, (see page 57)
11⁄2 tsp salt if necessary.
3 tbsp olive oil Oven temperature
for the topping 4 Turn out onto a lightly floured 400ºF
2 cups grated Gruyère work surface. Knead the dough
3 red onions, each cut into 8 wedges until smooth, silky, and elastic, about BakingXI XII I
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves 10 minutes. •
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp coarse salt 5 Put the dough in a clean, lightly VII VI V 30 minutes
oiled bowl and cover with a dish Steam optional
1 To make the starter Sprinkle towel. Let rise until doubled in size, (see page 63)
the yeast into the water. Let 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down and chafe
stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. for 5 minutes (see page 51), then let Yield
Add the flour and mix to form a rest, about 10 minutes. 1 loaf
thick batter. Cover with a dish 6 Roll out the dough on a lightly Yeast alternative
towel and ferment at room floured work surface to form For the starter:
temperature for at a round, 91⁄2 inches in diameter. 1⁄8 of a cake
least 12 and up to (0.6oz-sized) yeast
36 hours, until it 7 Place the dough on a lightly For the dough:
forms a loose, oiled baking sheet and cover with 3⁄4 of a cake
bubbling a dish towel. Proof until doubled in (0.6oz-sized) yeast
batter. size, about 30 minutes. (see page 41)
8 To make the topping Use your
fingertips to gently press into
the dough to make dimples about
1⁄2 inch deep. Scatter an even layer
of Gruyère and onion wedges on
top of the dough, then sprinkle
with the thyme, oil, and salt.
9 Bake in the preheated oven for
30 minutes, until puffed and the
topping is crisp. Cool slightly on a
wire rack. Cut into wedges and serve
while still warm. It is also good at
room temperature.
108
— F L AV O R E D B R E A D S —
S C H I A C C I ATA C O N L’ U VA
SCHIACCIATA WITH BLACK GRAPES AND WINE-SOAKED RAISINS
This Schiacciata is INGREDIENTS 3 Divide the dough into two equal To begin
pieces. Roll out each piece of Starter
traditionally made in for the starter dough on a lightly floured surface to Time: 12–36 hours
Tuscany at grape harvest form two 91⁄2-inch rounds. Place one (see page 44)
time with the Sangiovese 1 quantity starter (see Schiacciata con le round on a lightly oiled baking sheet.
grapes that are used to Cipolle Rosse e Formaggio, page 108) Rising
make Chianti Classico 4 Marinate the raisins in the wine 11⁄2–2 hours
wines. The raisins inside for the dough for at least 2 hours or, preferably, (see pages 50–51)
the dough represent the overnight. Drain them thoroughly
last season’s grapes, while 3 tbsp sugar and reserve the leftover wine as a Proofing
the new season’s grapes special treat for the baker to drink. 30 minutes
are used to adorn the top. 1 quantity dough (see Schiacciata con le (see page 57)
Cipolle Rosse e Formaggio, page 108) 5 To make the filling Spread
the raisins evenly over the Oven temperature
for the filling and topping first dough round. Put the second 400ºF
round on top and pinch the edges
11⁄4 packed cup raisins together, then cover with a dish Baking
towel. Proof until doubled in size, 45 minutes
1 glass of Vin Santo about 30 minutes. XI XII I II III Steam optional
or another sweet dessert wine •VIII (see page 63)
6 Cover the dough evenly with the IX X
grapes, lightly pressing them into VII VI V IV Yield
the dough, and sprinkle the light 1 loaf
1lb seedless black grapes brown granulated sugar and fennel
seeds on the top. Yeast alternative
3 tbsp light brown granulated sugar For the starter:
1⁄8 of a cake
1 tsp fennel seeds (0.6oz-sized) yeast
For the dough:
1 To make the starter and dough 3⁄4 of a cake
Make the starter and dough as (0.6oz-sized) yeast
directed for Schiacciata con le Cipolle (see page 41)
Rosse e Formaggio (see page 108),
up to step 5. Add the sugar to the
flour and salt in step 2.
2 Put the dough in a lightly oiled 7 Bake in the preheated oven for
bowl and cover with a dish towel. 45 minutes, until the crust is
Let rise until doubled in size, 11⁄2–2 golden and the grapes are lightly
hours. Punch down and chafe for
5 minutes (see page 51), then let browned. Cool slightly on
rest, about 10 minutes. a wire rack.
109
ENRICHED
BREADS
T HE ADDITION OF ONE OR MORE ENRICHING
INGREDIENTS—SUCH AS BUTTER, OIL, OR
EGGS—RESULTS IN A BREAD WITH A SOFT, TENDER
CRUMB THAT BECOMES MORE CAKELIKE IN DIRECT
PROPORTION TO THE QUANTITIES OF THE
ENRICHMENTS ADDED. THE MOISTURE IN THESE
INGREDIENTS MAKES THE DOUGH SOFT AND OFTEN
DIFFICULT TO HANDLE. THE FAT IN THEM COATS
THE GLUTEN STRANDS IN THE DOUGH AND
CREATES A BARRIER BETWEEN THE FLOUR AND THE
YEAST. THIS LENGTHENS THE RISING TIMES SO
MUCH THAT IN BREADS LIKE BRIOCHE, THE
ENRICHMENTS ARE ADDED AFTER THE INITIAL
RISING. THE RECIPES IN THIS SECTION MAY
REQUIRE SOME NEW SKILLS AND A BIT MORE
CONFIDENCE AND TIME THAN PREVIOUS RECIPES,
BUT THEY ARE WORTH IT.
LEFT AN INDIVIDUAL BRIOCHE AND
THE LARGER BRIOCHE À TÊTE
—RECIPES—
BRIOCHE
Egg-and-butter-enriched INGREDIENTS 5 Use your hand to incorporate Rising II III
the softened butter into the 1–11⁄2 hoursVIII
Brioche dough is formed 21⁄2 tsp dry yeast dough (see below, right). (see pages 50–51)IX X
into a variety of shapes, IV
but perhaps the classic 2 tbsp water 6 Turn out onto a lightly floured Proofing
and most characteristic is work surface. Knead until the 30 minutes
that of the small Brioche 23⁄4 cups bread flour butter is distributed throughout, (see page 57)
Parisienne, with its 5 minutes, then rest for 5 minutes
distinctive topknot and 2 tbsp sugar more. Grease ten brioche molds, each Oven temperature
scalloped underside. about 31⁄2 inches in diameter and 425ºF
Perhaps best enjoyed at 11⁄2 tsp salt 2 inches deep, with softened butter
breakfast with raspberry (see opposite, left). BakingXI XII I
preserves and a bowl 5 medium eggs, beaten •
of steaming café au lait, 7 Divide the dough into ten
Brioche boasts a culinary 1 tbsp melted butter, to brush bowl pieces. Pinch off about a VII VI V 15–20 minutes
status that far outstrips quarter of each piece. Use cupped
that of the breakfast table. 12 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, hands to roll both the large and Yield
Brioche dough is favored plus extra to brush molds small pieces of dough into smooth 10 small Brioche
above other doughs and balls (see page 55). Place one of the
pastries in some celebrated egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk and large balls into each of the prepared Yeast alternative
classic dishes, most 1 tbsp water (see page 58) brioche molds. 11⁄4 cakes
notably Beef Wellington. (0.6oz-sized) yeast
1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water 8 Use your forefinger to make an (see page 41)
in a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; indentation in the center of the
stir to dissolve. Mix the flour, sugar, large ball, then add the small ball
and salt in a large bowl. (see opposite, right). Repeat this step
with the remaining balls of dough.
2 Make a well in the center
and add the dissolved yeast 9 Cover the molds with a dish
and beaten eggs (see below, left). towel and proof until the dough
Mix in the flour to form a soft, moist has doubled in size, 30 minutes.
but manageable dough.
10 Brush the tops of the dough
3 Turn the dough out onto a with the egg glaze. Place the
lightly floured work surface. molds on a baking sheet. Bake in the
Knead until elastic, about 10 minutes. preheated oven for 15–20 minutes,
until glossy and golden. Turn out and
4 Grease a large bowl with the cool on a wire rack.
melted butter. Place the dough
in the bowl; turn it to coat evenly.
Cover with a dish towel and let
rise until doubled in size, about
1–11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then
let rest for 10 minutes.
ADDING ENRICHMENTS TO DOUGH
In step 2, add beaten eggs In step 5, use your hand to
directly to the flour well squeeze the softened butter
along with the dissolved into the dough until evenly
yeast. Mix in the flour distributed throughout.
to form a soft, moist but Continue as directed
manageable dough. in step 6.
112
—ENRICHED BREADS—
PREPARING THE MOLD AND DOUGH FOR BAKING In step 8, use your
In step 6, grease the mold forefinger to make a slight
indentation in the center
with softened butter, then of each large ball. Brush
place it in the refrigerator the indentation with egg
until the butter is hard. glaze. Place a smaller ball
Once the butter has formed on top to make a topknot.
a hardened shell, grease the Repeat with the remaining
mold a second time with dough balls and molds.
more softened butter.
HANDY TIPS VA R I AT I O N S • Brush with the egg glaze. Bake for
35 minutes, until shiny, golden, and
• Use the best-quality Brioche à Tête hollow sounding when tapped. Turn
butter and freshest eggs (Large Brioche with a Topknot) out of the loaf pan to cool.
available to make the most • Make one quantity Brioche dough
flavorful Brioche. up to step 7, replacing the ten small Pain Amuse-gueule
molds in step 6 with a buttered (Flavored Brioche)
• Be sure that the eggs are brioche mold, 7 inches in • Make one quantity Brioche dough
at room temperature and diameter and 6 inches deep. up to step 7, adding 2 cups diced
the butter has been left out • Pinch off a third of the dough. Gruyère, 1 tablespoon each dried
of the refrigerator to soften Shape the large piece of dough into herbes de Provence, dried mint, and
before starting. a round loaf (see page 54). Use dried oregano, and 1 teaspoon each
cupped hands to roll the small piece caraway seeds, coriander seeds, and
• It is important to into a round roll (see page 55). fennel seeds to the dough with the
always use softened, not • Put the large ball, seam side down, softened butter in step 5.
melted, butter to grease in the brioche mold. Make an • Replace the molds with a buttered
the brioche molds. indentation, then add the small ball. 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan in step 6.
• Cover and proof until the dough Shape the dough for a pan loaf
• Use leftover Brioche to fills the mold, about 45 minutes. (see page 53).
make luxurious Pain Perdu Preheat the oven to 425°F. • Put the dough in the prepared pan.
or a scrumptious Bread and • Brush the dough with the egg glaze. Cover with a dish towel and proof
Butter Pudding (see pages Bake for 35–45 minutes, until glossy until the dough rises to 1⁄4 inch
158–159). and golden. Turn out of the brioche below the top of the pan, about
mold onto a wire rack to cool. 45 minutes. Preheat the oven
to 400°F.
Brioche Nanterre • Brush with the egg
(Brioche from Nanterre) glaze and sprinkle
• Make one quantity Brioche with an additional
dough up to step 7, replacing the 2 tablespoons
molds in step 6 with a buttered grated Gruyère.
9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan. • Bake for
• Divide the dough into eight pieces. 35 minutes,
Use cupped hands to roll each piece until golden
into a ball (see page 55). and hollow
• Put the eight rolls of dough in the sounding
prepared loaf pan, placing them four when tapped
to a row down each side of the pan. underneath.
• Cover with a dish towel and proof Turn out of the
until the dough fills the pan, about pan onto a wire
45 minutes. Preheat the oven to rack to cool.
400ºF.
113
—RECIPES—
M A N TOVA N A
OLIVE OIL BREAD FROM MANTUA
This long loaf, with its INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto a II IIITo begin
floured work surface. Knead VIII Sponge method
delicate, crispy crust and 2 tsp dry yeast until smooth, about 10 minutes. Time: 20 minutesIX X
fine crumb, takes its (see page 44)IV
name, Mantovana, from 21⁄2 cups water 5 Put the dough in a clean, oiled
Mantua in Lombardy, bowl; cover with a dish towel. Rising
Italy. The double rising 11⁄2 cups whole-wheat flour Let rise until doubled in size, about 11⁄2 hours
produces a bread with 50 minutes. Punch down, cover (see pages 50–51)
a light, even texture. 33⁄4 cups bread flour with a dish towel, and let rise until
Be careful not to overrise doubled in size, about 40 minutes. Proofing
the dough—it might 2 tsp salt 15 minutes
collapse upon being placed 6 Punch down and chafe for (see page 57)
in a hot oven; do not 1⁄2 cup olive oil 10 minutes (see page 51), then
leave the dough for any let rest for 10 minutes. Oven temperature
longer than 40 minutes 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 12⁄3 cups 400ºF
for its second rising. of the water in a bowl. Let stand 7 Divide the dough into two
Serve with sliced for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix pieces. Shape each piece into BakingXI XII I
Prociutto ham or country the flours in a large bowl. Make a a long loaf (see page 52), about •
salami or other antipasti. well in the center and pour in the 10 inches in length. Place on a
dissolved yeast. floured baking sheet and cover with VII VI V 45 minutes
a dish towel. Proof for 15 minutes.
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw Yield
enough of the flour into the 8 Cut a lengthwise slash, 1⁄2 inch 2 loaves
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. deep, down the center
Cover the bowl with a dish towel, of each loaf (see page 62). Bake in Yeast alternative
then let “sponge” until frothy and the preheated oven for 45 minutes, 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
risen, about 20 minutes. until golden and hollow sounding (see page 41)
when tapped underneath. Cool on
3 Add the salt and oil to the a wire rack.
sponge. Mix in the rest of the
flour from the sides of the well. Stir
in the remaining water, as needed,
to form a very sticky dough.
114
—ENRICHED BREADS—
PANE DI RAMERINO
ROSEMARY RAISIN BREAD
INGREDIENTS Place on two oiled baking sheets and Rising
cover with dish towels. Proof until 2 hours
2 tsp dry yeast doubled in size, about 1 hour. These (see pages 50–51)
loaves will spread and look slightly
1⁄2 cup water flat after rising, but they will rise Proofing
up dramatically during the initial 1 hour
33⁄4 cups bread flour stages of baking. (see page 57)
11⁄2 tsp salt 6 Cut a slash, 1⁄2 inch deep, across Oven temperature
the top of the loaf, then another 400ºF
2 tbsp powdered milk in the opposite direction to make an
“X” (see page 62). BakingXI XII I
Quite simply the best 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped II III•
7 Bake in the preheated oven for VIII
accompaniment to fresh 11⁄2 packed cups raisins 45 minutes, until golden brown IX XVII VI V 45 minutes
goat cheese, Panmarino and hollow sounding when tapped IV
is a superlative breakfast 4 tbsp olive oil underneath. Cool on a wire rack. Yield
bread, too. This bread 2 loaves
recipe is a Florentine 4 eggs, beaten VA R I AT I O N
specialty that has been Yeast alternative
baked daily throughout 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water Pane ai Fichi con Mandorle 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
Tuscany since the early in a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; (Fig Bread with Almonds) (see page 41)
16th century. It is stir to dissolve. Mix the flour, salt, • Make one quantity Panmarino
enriched with milk, olive and powdered milk in a large mixing dough up to step 7, replacing the
oil, and eggs, ingredients bowl. Make a well in the center and rosemary with 1 cup whole
that reflect its origins. add the dissolved yeast and all the almonds, toasted and chopped;
Fresh rosemary and remaining ingredients. the raisins with the same amount
raisins made from the of finely chopped dried figs; and
region’s famous grapes 2 Mix the flour into the yeast the olive oil with the same amount
abound in Tuscan cuisine, mixture to form a soft, sticky of orange juice. Preheat the oven
as do the figs and almonds dough. Add extra flour, 1 tablespoon to 400°F.
that inspired this recipe’s at a time, if the dough is too moist. • Bake as directed in step 7. Dust
delicious variation. the top with a generous amount of
3 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured work surface. Knead confectioners’ sugar
until silky, springy, and elastic, about before serving.
10 minutes.
4 Put the dough in a clean, oiled
bowl and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about
2 hours. Punch down and chafe for
5 minutes (see page 51), then let rest
for 10 minutes.
5 Divide the dough into two pieces.
Shape each into a round loaf
(see page 54).
—RECIPES—
DI TORTA DI TESTA
PROSCIUTTO E FORMAGGIO
This lovely golden loaf,
GOLDEN CHEESE AND HAM BREAD
marbeled with savory
morsels of ham and INGREDIENTS 2 Mix the flour from the sides of Rising
cheese, makes a perfect the well into the dissolved yeast 2 hours
accompaniment—fresh, 2 tsp dry yeast to form a soft, sticky dough. (see pages 50–51)
warm, or toasted—to a
bowl of hot soup. It also 1⁄2 cup water 3 Turn out onto a lightly floured Proofing
makes a delicious base work surface. Knead until silky 1 hour
for the ultimate grilled 33⁄4 cups bread flour and elastic, about 10 minutes. (see page 57)
cheese sandwich.
11⁄2 tsp salt 4 Put the dough in a clean bowl Oven temperature
and cover with a dish towel. 350ºF
1⁄4 tsp freshly ground black pepper Let rise until doubled in size, about
2 hours. Punch down, then let rest BakingXI XII I
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg for 10 minutes. II III
VIII
8 tbsp unsalted butter, softened 5 Shape the dough into a round •IX X
loaf (see page 54). Place on a IV
4 eggs, beaten lightly oiled baking sheet and cover 1 ⁄ hoursVII VI V 12
with a dish towel. Proof until doubled
5oz sliced prosciutto, chopped in size, about 1 hour. Yield
1 loaf
11⁄8 cups diced Emmental 6 Bake in the preheated oven for
11⁄2 hours, until golden brown. Yeast alternative
oil, to grease baking sheet Cool on a wire rack. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
(see page 41)
1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water
in a bowl. Let stand for
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the
flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a
large bowl. Make a well in the center
and add the dissolved yeast, butter,
eggs, prosciutto, and cheese.
TORTA DI TESTA
DI PROSCIUTTO E FORMAGGIO
116
—ENRICHED BREADS—
ZOPF
SWISS BRAIDED LOAF
This shiny, golden milk INGREDIENTS Knead until smooth, shiny, and II IIITo begin
elastic, about 10 minutes. VIII Sponge method
loaf is made throughout 2 tsp dry yeast IX X Time: 20 minutes
Switzerland but is said 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl IV(see page 44)
to have originated in the 11⁄4 cups milk and cover with a dish towel. Rising
Emmental region, where Let rise until doubled in size, about 11⁄2–2 hours
it is called Zupfe. The 33⁄4 cups bread flour 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then let (see pages 50–51)
bread, enriched with the rest for 10 minutes. Proofing
sweet butter and creamy 11⁄2 tsp salt 35–45 minutes
milk of the region, then 6 Divide the dough into three (see page 57)
braided and baked to a 4 tbsp unsalted butter, softened and pieces. Roll out each piece to Oven temperature
glossy gold, is a traditional creamed, plus extra to grease baking sheet form a 16-inch-long rope and make 350ºF
part of the annual a braided loaf (see page 57). BakingXI XII I
thanksgiving meal in 1 tsp sugar
honor of the Emmentaler 7 Place on a buttered baking sheet •
harvest. It is also very 2 tbsp kirsch or brandy and cover with a dish towel.
popular breakfast fare Proof until doubled in size, about VII VI V 40 minutes
all over Switzerland, egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk and 35–45 minutes. Brush the top of the Yield
especially on 1 tbsp milk (see page 58) loaf with the egg glaze. 1 loaf
New Year’s Day. Yeast alternative
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup 8 Bake in the preheated oven 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
of the milk in a bowl. Let stand for 40 minutes, until golden (see page 41)
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Put brown and hollow sounding when
the flour in a large bowl. Make tapped underneath. Cool on a ZOPF
a well in the center and pour in the wire rack.
dissolved yeast.
VA R I AT I O N
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw
enough of the flour into the Pain Viennois
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. (Vienna Bread)
Cover the bowl with a dish towel, • Make one quantity Zopf dough
then let “sponge” until frothy and up to step 5, excluding the sugar
risen, about 20 minutes. and kirsch added in step 3.
• Divide the dough into two equal
3 Pour about half of the pieces, then shape each piece into
remaining milk into the well. an oval loaf (see page 55).
Mix in the flour, salt, butter, sugar, • Place on a buttered baking sheet
and kirsch or brandy. Stir in the and cover with a dish towel.
reserved milk, as needed, to form • Proof until doubled in size, about
a soft, moist dough. 11⁄2–2 hours. Preheat the
oven to 350°F.
4 Turn the dough out onto a • Brush with the egg
lightly floured work surface. glaze. Cut ten diagonal
slashes, about 1⁄4 inch
deep, along the length of
each loaf (see page 62).
Bake for 35–45 minutes.
Cool on a wire rack.
117
—RECIPES—
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS
The Parker House Roll INGREDIENTS Knead in extra flour, 1 tablespoon at Rising II III
a time, if the dough is too sticky. 1–11⁄2 hoursVIII
originated at the Parker 21⁄2 tsp dry yeast Resist adding too much flour, as the (see pages 50–51)IX X
House, a hotel in Boston. dough should not be dry, but soft. IV
The butter-and-egg- 1 cup milk Proofing
enriched dough is cut 4 Put the dough in a buttered 30 minutes
into small rectangles, 4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted bowl and cover with a dish (see page 57)
brushed with melted towel. Let rise until doubled in size,
butter, folded in half, 2 tbsp sugar 1–11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let Oven temperature
and baked until soft and rest for 10 minutes. 425ºF
golden brown. Serve 2 eggs, beaten
these dangerously 5 Divide the dough into two BakingXI XII I
delicious rolls warm; 41⁄4 cups bread flour pieces. Roll out each piece to •
cool them on a wire rack form an 8 x 16-inch rectangle. Cut
for 10 minutes, and then 2 tsp salt each rectangle lengthwise into four VII VI V 15–20 minutes
wrap them in a clean strips, each 2 inches wide. Cut each
cloth to keep them warm. 2 tbsp melted butter to glaze, strip into four rectangles, each Yield
plus extra to grease bowl and baking sheet 4 inches long. Brush half of each 16 rolls
rectangle with melted butter, then
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of fold in half, leaving a 1⁄2-inch flap. Yeast alternative
the milk in a bowl. Let stand for 11⁄4 cakes
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Warm 6 Place the rolls on a buttered (0.6oz-sized) yeast
the remaining milk in a saucepan baking sheet so that each roll (see page 41)
with the butter and sugar. Stir overlaps slightly with the one next to
until the butter has melted. Cool it; cover with a dish towel. Proof until
until lukewarm, then beat in the doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
eggs until evenly combined.
7 Brush the tops of the rolls
2 Mix the flour and salt in a large with melted butter. Bake in the
bowl. Make a well in the center preheated oven for 15–20 minutes,
and pour in the dissolved yeast and until golden and hollow sounding
the butter mixture. Mix in the flour when tapped underneath. Cool
to form a soft, sticky dough. on a wire rack.
3 Turn the dough out onto a
floured work surface. Knead
until smooth, shiny,
and elastic, about
10 minutes.
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS
118
—ENRICHED BREADS—
VA R I AT I O N S piece into a 12-inch rope, then shape BOW KNOT
into a figure eight and tuck the ends ROLL
Soft Dinner Rolls through the holes.
• Make one quantity Parker House • Place on two buttered baking CLOVERLEAF
Rolls dough up to step 5. sheets and proof as instructed for ROLL
• Divide the dough into 16 pieces. Soft Dinner Rolls. Preheat the oven
Shape each piece of dough into a to 425ºF.
round roll (see page 55). • Glaze and top the rolls as you
• Arrange the rolls 2 inches apart prefer (see pages 58–61). Bake for
on two buttered baking sheets. 15–20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Cover with a dish towel and proof
SHAPING A until doubled in size, 30 minutes. Bow Knot Rolls SNAIL
SNAIL ROLL • Brush each roll with an egg • Make one quantity Parker House ROLL
glaze, made with 1 egg yolk and Rolls dough up to step 5.
Roll each piece of dough 1 tablespoon milk. Preheat the oven • Divide into 16 pieces. Shape each
into a 12-inch rope. Form to 425ºF. piece into a knot roll (see page 55).
each rope into a coil, • Bake for 15–20 minutes, until • Place on two buttered baking
tucking the end golden. Cool on a wire rack. sheets and proof as instructed for
underneath. Soft Dinner Rolls. Preheat the
Snail Rolls oven to 425ºF.
• Make one quantity Parker House • Glaze and top the rolls as you
Rolls dough up to step 5. prefer (see pages 58–61). Bake for
• Divide the dough into 16 pieces. 15–20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Roll each piece of dough into a
12-inch rope and form into Cloverleaf Rolls
a coil, tucking under the end. • Make one quantity Parker House
• Place on two buttered baking Rolls dough up to step 5.
sheets and proof as instructed for • Divide into 16 pieces. Divide
Soft Dinner Rolls. Preheat the oven each piece into three even portions.
to 425ºF. Shape each piece into a round roll
• Top the rolls as you prefer (see page 55). Place three balls in
(see pages 58–61). Bake for each buttered cup of a muffin tin.
15–20 minutes, until golden. • Proof until doubled in size,
Cool on a wire rack. about 30 minutes. Preheat the
oven to 425ºF.
Baker’s Knot Rolls • Glaze and top the rolls as you
• Make one quantity Parker House prefer (see pages 58–61). Bake for
15–20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Rolls dough up to step 5.
• Divide the dough into
16 pieces. Roll each
Twist Rolls TWIST
• Make one quantity Parker House ROLL
Rolls dough up to step 5.
• Divide the dough into 16 pieces.
Roll each piece of dough into a
12-inch rope, fold in half,
and twist; pinch the ends to
seal.
• Place on two buttered
baking sheets and proof
as instructed for Soft
Dinner Rolls. Preheat
the oven to 425ºF.
• Glaze and top the rolls as
you prefer (see pages
58–61). Bake for 15–20 minutes.
119
—RECIPES—
P A RT Y B ROT
GERMAN PARTY BREAD
This German party bread INGREDIENTS 3 Arrange the shaped rolls in the II IIIRising
prepared pan by making an outer VIII 1–11⁄2 hours
makes a delicious and 1 quantity dough ring of 12 rolls and an inner ring of IX X (see pages 50–51)
decorative centerpiece for (see Parker House Rolls, page 118) six rolls, and placing the last roll in IV
any occasion that requires the center of the two rings. Proofing
feeding and pleasing unsalted butter, melted, to grease pan 45 minutes
a crowd. These classic 4 Cover the pan with a dish towel, (see page 57)
dinner rolls are baked for the topping then proof until doubled in size,
together in a round cake about 45 minutes. Oven temperature
pan and can be sprinkled egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk 400ºF
with the topping of your and 1 tbsp milk (see page 58) 5 To make the topping Brush
choice (see pages 60–61). the top of each roll with the egg BakingXI XII I
The dough used to make 1 tbsp each sesame seeds and poppy seeds glaze, and sprinkle alternately with •
this bread is the same as the sesame and poppy seeds.
that used in the recipe for 1 Make the dough as directed in VII VI V 45 minutes
Parker House Rolls. the recipe for Parker House Rolls 6 Bake in the preheated oven for
(see page 118) up to step 5. 45 minutes, until golden and Yield
hollow sounding when tapped. Turn 19 rolls
2 Divide the dough into out onto a wire rack to cool slighty,
19 equal pieces. Shape each then wrap in a dish towel to keep Yeast alternative
piece of dough into a smooth warm. Serve immediately. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
ball (see page 55). Grease a round (see page 41)
cake pan or springform pan, about
91⁄2 inches in diameter, with the
melted butter.
120
—ENRICHED BREADS—
FAN TANS
DECORATIVE BUTTERMILK ROLLS
These pretty, dainty INGREDIENTS 5 Use a sharp knife to cut the Rising II III
buttered dough into seven strips, 1–11⁄2 hoursVIII
rolls make perfect party 2 tsp dry yeast each about 13⁄4 inch wide. Place the (see pages 50–51)IX X
fare. A specialty of strips in a stack, then cut the stack IV
New England, they are 1/2 tsp sugar (see below, left). Proofing
sometimes called Yankee 1 hour
Buttermilk Rolls. If you 7⁄8 cup buttermilk 6 Turn each piece cut side up (see page 57)
do not have any and pinch the underside together
buttermilk in the house, 23⁄4 cups bread flour to seal. Place the rolls in a well Oven temperature
refer to the Glossary on buttered muffin tin or bun tin (see 400ºF
page 164 for a suggested 1/2 tsp baking soda below, right) and cover with a dish
substitution. The fancy towel. Proof until doubled in size, BakingXI XII I
shape of the rolls is 1/2 tsp salt about 1 hour. •
easy to replicate when
you follow the steps 4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted, 7 Bake in the preheated oven VII VI V 15–20 minutes
illustrated at the bottom plus extra to grease tin for 15–20 minutes, until golden.
of the page. Turn out onto a wire rack to cool Yield
1 Sprinkle the yeast and sugar into slighty, then serve still warm. 8 rolls
the buttermilk in a bowl. Let stand
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix Yeast alternative
the flour, baking soda, and salt in a 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
large bowl. Make a well in the center (see page 41)
and pour in the dissolved yeast and
2 tablespoons of the melted butter.
2 Mix in the flour to form a soft,
moist dough. Turn the dough
out onto a lightly floured work
surface. Knead until smooth, glossy,
and elastic, about 10 minutes.
3 Put the dough in a clean bowl
and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about
1–11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let
rest for 10 minutes.
4 Roll out the dough to form
a 12 x 20-inch rectangle, 1⁄8 inch
thick. Brush with the remaining
melted butter.
SHAPING THE ROLLS
In step 5, place the cut In step 6, turn each piece
dough strips on top of one cut side up and pinch the
another to form an even underside together to seal.
stack. Use a sharp knife to Place the shaped rolls,
cut the stack crosswise into pinched side down, in
eight equal pieces. a buttered muffin tin.
121
—RECIPES—
SWEDISH DILL BREAD
This is quite simply INGREDIENTS 2 Make a well in the center II IIIRising
and add the dill, cream cheese, VIII 11⁄2 hours
the most wonderful 2 tsp dry yeast onions, butter, egg, and dissolved IX X (see pages 50–51)
accompaniment to smoked 1⁄2 cup water yeast. Use a wooden spoon to mix all IV
salmon. The cream cheese, 33⁄4 cups bread flour the ingredients with the flour to form Proofing
butter, and egg produce a a stiff, sticky dough. 11⁄2 hours
bread with a moist crumb, 1 tsp salt (see page 57)
a light texture subtly 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill 3 Turn the dough out onto a
scented with dill, and a lightly floured work surface. Oven temperature
golden crust studded with 2⁄3 cup cream cheese, Knead the dough until silky and 350ºF
toasted onion. at room temperature elastic, about 10 minutes.
2 onions, roughly chopped BakingXI XII I
2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, 4 Put the dough in a clean bowl •
plus extra to grease pan and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about VII VI V 45 minutes–1 hour
1 egg, beaten 11⁄2 hours.
Yield
1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water 5 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan 1 loaf
in a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; with butter. Punch down the
stir to dissolve. Mix the flour and salt dough, then let rest for 10 minutes. Yeast alternative
1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
in a large bowl. (see page 41)
6 Shape the dough for a loaf pan
(see page 53). Place seam side
down in the prepared pan and cover
with a dish towel. Proof the dough
until it is 1⁄2 inch above the top
of the pan, about 11⁄2 hours.
7 Bake in the preheated oven for
45 minutes–1 hour, until hollow
sounding when tapped underneath.
Turn out onto a wire rack to cool.
122
—ENRICHED BREADS—
CINNAMON RAISIN BREAD
When sliced and toasted, INGREDIENTS 5 Put the dough in a clean bowl XI XII I II III Rising
and cover with a dish towel. •VIII 1–11⁄2 hours
this bread is perhaps 1⁄2 cup dark brown sugar Let rise until doubled in size, about IX X (see pages 50–51)
North America’s favorite 1–11⁄2 hours. VII VI V IV
breakfast loaf—a great 3⁄4 cup plus 2 tbsp milk Proofing
accompaniment to a 6 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan. 30–45 minutes
weekend breakfast of 2 tsp dry yeast Punch down the dough, then let (see page 57)
eggs, bacon, and freshly rest for 10 minutes.
squeezed orange juice. 33⁄4 cups bread flour Oven temperature
Any leftover slices make 7 Roll out the dough on a lightly 400ºF
the perfect ingredient 11⁄2 tsp salt floured work surface to form an
for another weekend 8 x 12-inch rectangle. Sprinkle with Baking
breakfast favorite— 2 tsp ground cinnamon the raisins, pressing them down 11⁄4 hours
French Toast, or Pain lightly into the dough.
Perdu (see page 158). 2 eggs, beaten Yield
8 Roll the dough tightly like a 1 loaf
3 tbsp butter, plus extra to grease pan Swiss roll. Pinch the seam to seal.
Place in the loaf pan with the ends Yeast alternative
1 packed cup raisins underneath (see page 53). Cover with 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
a dish towel and proof the dough (see page 41)
egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk until it is 1⁄2 inch above the top
and 1 tbsp water (see page 58) of the pan, 30–45 minutes.
1 Add the dark brown sugar to 9 Brush the loaf with the egg
1⁄2 cup of the milk in a bowl. glaze and bake in the preheated
Stir to dissolve completely. Sprinkle oven for 45 minutes, then reduce
the yeast into the milk. Let stand for the oven to 350ºF and bake for
5 minutes; stir to dissolve. 30 minutes more, until dark, shiny,
and hollow sounding when tapped
2 Mix the flour, salt, and cinnamon underneath. Turn out onto a wire
in a large bowl. Make a well rack to cool.
in the center and add the dissolved
yeast, beaten eggs, and melted butter.
3 Mix in the flour. Stir in the
remaining milk, as needed,
to form a moist, sticky dough.
4 Turn the dough out onto a
lightly floured work surface.
Knead until smooth, soft,
and supple, about
10 minutes.
123
—RECIPES—
PRUNE & CHOCOLATE BREAD
This deeply indulgent INGREDIENTS 5 Punch down the dough, then II IIIRising
let rest for 10 minutes. Add VIII 1 hour
loaf, chock-a-block with 21⁄2 tsp dry yeast the prunes, chocolate, butter, and IX X (see pages 50–51)
juicy prunes and melted egg (see below, left). Turn out onto IV
chocolate, is superlative 11⁄2 cups water a lightly floured work surface. Proofing
when served warm and Knead until just firm enough 30 minutes
cut into thick slices. The 33⁄4 cups bread flour to shape, 1–2 minutes. (see page 57)
prunes and chocolate are
best roughly chopped so 11⁄2 tsp salt 6 Shape the dough for a loaf Oven temperature
that the bread is packed pan (see below, right) and 350ºF
with large chunks of 11⁄8 cups pitted prunes, place in the prepared pan. Cover
flavor. This sweet treat roughly chopped with a dish towel and proof the BakingXI XII I
is perfect to serve with dough until it has risen 1 inch •
mid-morning coffee or 7oz bittersweet chocolate, above the rim of the pan, about
afternoon tea. Try the roughly chopped 30 minutes. VII VI V 45 minutes
Triple Chocolate and
Hazelnut variation as 2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, 7 Bake in the preheated oven Yield
a special treat for your plus extra to grease pan for 45 minutes, until lightly 1 loaf
favorite chocolate-lover. browned and hollow sounding
1 egg, beaten when tapped underneath. Turn out Yeast alternative
onto a wire rack to cool. 11⁄4 cakes
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup (0.6oz-sized) yeast
of the water in a bowl. Let VA R I AT I O N (see page 41)
stand for 5 minutes, then stir
to dissolve. Mix the flour and salt Triple Chocolate and
in a large bowl. Make a well in Hazelnut Bread
the center of the flour and pour
in the dissolved yeast. • Make one quantity Prune and
Chocolate Bread dough up to step 5.
2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the • Replace the prunes and bittersweet
remaining water, as needed, chocolate in step 5 with 8oz
to form a soft, sticky dough. bittersweet chocolate, 4oz
semisweet chocolate, 2oz milk
3 Turn the dough out onto a chocolate, roughly chopped, and
lightly floured work surface. 1 cup roughly chopped, toasted
Knead the dough until smooth hazelnuts. Add to the dough (see
and elastic, about 10 minutes. below, left).
• Shape, proof, and bake the
4 Put the dough in a bowl and dough as directed in steps 6–7.
cover with a dish towel. Let rise
until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan
with butter.
ENRICHING THE DOUGH SHAPING THE DOUGH
Use your hand to gently Follow the instructions
squeeze the prunes, on page 53 to gently
chocolate, butter, and egg shape the dough to fit the
into the dough until they loaf pan. Place the dough
are evenly distributed and into the buttered pan
the beaten egg is absorbed. seam side down.
124
F L AT
BREADS
F LAT BREADS WERE UNDOUBTEDLY SOME OF
THE EARLIEST BREADS EVER BAKED. THEY
CONTINUE TO BE PRODUCED TODAY, OFTEN
SERVING AS PLATES AND CUTLERY FOR MEALS IN
THEIR COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN. THEY ARE STAPLES
PARTICULARLY IN THOSE PARTS OF THE WORLD
WHERE FUEL FOR COOKING IS SCARCE—FLAT
BREADS COOK VERY QUICKLY. MANY OF THESE
BREADS ARE SHAPED WITH A ROLLING PIN. BREAD
DOUGH ROLLS OUT MOST EASILY WHEN RESTED AT
INTERVALS. WHEN MAKING THESE RECIPES, ROLL
OUT THE DOUGH UNTIL YOU FEEL RESISTANCE,
THEN TURN TO ANOTHER PIECE OF DOUGH, AND
GIVE THE FIRST PIECE TIME TO REST. REPLICATE
THE FIERCE HEAT OF THE CLAY OVENS
TRADITIONALLY USED TO MAKE FLAT BREADS BY
PREHEATING A HEAVY BAKING SHEET WHEN
REQUIRED BY THE RECIPE.
LEFT NAN BREADS WITH
A VARIETY OF TOPPINGS
—RECIPES—
NAN
PUNJABI FLAT BREAD
This teardrop-shaped, INGREDIENTS 5 Divide the dough into four equal Rising II III
pieces. On a lightly floured work 3–4 hoursVIII
leavened flat bread 2 tsp dry yeast surface, roll out each piece to form IX X (see pages 50–51)
originates in the Punjab a round, 6 inches across and 1⁄4 inch IV
region of northern India. 1 cup milk thick. Pull one side to form a tear Grill temperature
Nan is traditionally shape; stretch the dough until about High
baked by slapping the 4 cups all-purpose flour 10 inches in length. Preheat the
dough onto the side of broiler on the highest setting. CookingXI XII I
a hot dome-shaped clay 11⁄2 tsp salt •
oven called a tandoor. 6 Preheat a baking sheet under the
The weight of the dough 1 tsp sugar broiler for about 2 minutes. VII VI V Broil 2–3 minutes
creates the characteristic Place a piece of dough on the hot per side
teardrop shape. The core 3 tbsp plain yogurt baking sheet. Broil the dough in
ingredients of this bread batches of two for about 2–3 minutes Yield
are yogurt and white flour, 2 tbsp ghee or unsalted butter, melted on each side, until puffy and golden. 4 breads
but it can be enriched
with egg, decorated 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup of 7 Stack the grilled breads on top Yeast alternative
with seeds, or flavored the milk in a bowl. Let stand for of one another and cover with 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
with garlic, onion, or 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the a clean, dry cloth to keep the crusts (see page 41)
spices. An essential flour and the salt in a large bowl. soft and to prevent drying out.
accompaniment to any Make a well in the center and add
classic tandoori meat or the dissolved yeast, sugar, yogurt, and VA R I AT I O N S
chicken dish, home-baked ghee or butter.
Nan is best eaten while Sada Nan
still hot and fresh, with 2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the (Seeded Indian Flat Bread)
yogurt and Indian-style remaining milk, as needed, • Make one quantity Nan dough
pickles and chutneys. to form a stiff, sticky dough. up to step 6.
• Combine 2 tablespoons poppy
3 Turn the dough out onto a seeds and 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
lightly floured work surface. with 1 tablespoon softened butter.
Knead the dough until smooth, • Spread each piece of dough with
stiff, and elastic, about 10 minutes. a layer of the butter mixture.
• Preheat the baking sheet and broil
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl the breads as directed in steps 6–7.
and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise until doubled in size, about
3–4 hours. Punch down, then let
rest for 10 minutes.
Badami Nan
(Almond Indian Flat Bread)
• Make one quantity Nan dough
up to step 6.
• Combine 2⁄3 cup blanched,
sliced almonds and
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
in a bowl.
• Melt 1 tablespoon
butter, then brush
over each piece of
shaped dough.
• Sprinkle the almonds and
seeds evenly over each piece and
press down lightly into the dough.
• Preheat the baking sheet and broil
the breads as directed in steps 6–7.
128
—FLAT BREADS—
EKMEK
TURKISH COUNTRY BREAD
The Turks are great INGREDIENTS Knead until smooth, shiny, and To begin
elastic, about 10 minutes. Sponge method
bread eaters, and Ekmek 1 tsp honey Time: 20 minutes
is very much a daily (see page 44)
staple. Flattened, ridged 11⁄4 cups water 5 Put the dough in a well-oiled
rounds are the most 2 tsp dry yeast bowl, turning it to coat evenly Rising
common form given 33⁄4 cups bread flour with the oil; cover with a dish towel. 11⁄2–2 hours
to this dough, but other Let rise until doubled in size, about (see pages 50–51)
popular shapes include 11⁄2 tsp salt 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then let
egg-glazed rings and 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to coat and glaze rest for 10 minutes. Proofing
decorative plump braids, 45 minutes
liberally sprinkled 1 Stir the honey into 2⁄3 cup of the 6 On a lightly floured work II III(see page 57)
with sesame seeds or water in a bowl, then sprinkle in surface, use your hands to VIII
poppy seeds. This soft, the yeast. Let stand for 5 minutes, flatten the dough into a round, IX X Oven temperature
oil-enriched bread is an then stir to dissolve. Mix the flour 9 inches across and 1 inch thick. IV425ºF
eastern Mediterranean and salt in a large bowl. Make a well Place on a floured baking sheet
cousin of the Italian in the center and pour in the and cover with a dish towel. BakingXI XII I
Focaccia. It is best eaten dissolved yeast. Proof until doubled in size, •
while still warm. about 45 minutes.
2 Use a wooden spoon to draw VII VI V 40 minutes
enough of the flour into the 7 Brush the dough with olive oil.
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. Use the blunt edge of a knife Yield
Cover the bowl with a dish towel, to make four parallel indentations 1 loaf
then “sponge” until frothy and risen, across the dough, then four more
about 20 minutes. indentations in the opposite Yeast alternative
direction to make a crisscross 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
3 Pour about half of the pattern, leaving a 1-inch (see page 41)
remaining water and the olive border around the edge.
oil into the well. Mix in the flour.
Stir in the reserved water, as needed, 8 Bake in the preheated oven
to form a firm, moist dough. for 40 minutes, until golden
and hollow sounding when tapped
4 Turn the dough out onto underneath. Sprinkle with extra
a lightly floured
work surface. oil, then cool on a
wire rack.
—RECIPES—
CARTA DA MUSICA
“MUSIC PAPER” BREAD
Called Carta da Musica, INGREDIENTS 6 Cover the remaining pieces of Rising II III
dough with a damp dish towel 20 minutesVIII
“music paper,” because 11⁄4 tsp dry yeast to prevent them from drying out. (see pages 50–51)IX X
of the crunchy sound If the dough resists shaping, cover IV
it makes when broken, 11⁄4 cups water it with a damp dish towel and let Oven temperature
this is the lightest and it rest for 2 minutes. While the first 400ºF
thinnest flat bread. 33⁄4 cups bread flour piece rests, begin rolling out the
Native to Sardinia, it has next piece. BakingXI XII I
been eaten by Sardinian 11⁄2 tsp salt •
shepherds for centuries, 7 Immediately place the rolled-
for once baked, it may be 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water out dough on the preheated VII VI V 10 minutes
stored for several weeks. in a bowl. Let stand for floured baking sheet (see below, per bread
If you are ambitious, 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve. right). Bake in the preheated oven
try splitting each baked for about 10 minutes, turning the Yield
round in two for an even 2 Mix the flour and salt in a risen round over once, until lightly 16 breads
thinner result. Remove large bowl. Make a well in the colored and puffy. Reflour the
the bread from the oven center and pour in the dissolved baking sheet; repeat with each Yeast alternative
and cut an incision along yeast. Mix in the flour from the shaped dough round. 3⁄4 of a cake
one edge with a paring sides of the bowl to form a stiff, (0.6oz-sized) yeast
knife. Use your hands sticky dough. 8 Remove the breads from the (see page 41)
to separate the bread into oven and pile them on top of
two very thin rounds, and 3 Turn the dough out onto a one another on a wire rack. As the
return them to the oven lightly floured work surface. breads cool, they will become crisp
on a baking sheet for Knead the dough until smooth and brittle.
1 minute to crisp. and elastic, about 10 minutes.
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl
and cover with a dish towel.
Let rise for just 20 minutes. Lightly
flour a baking sheet and place it
in the preheated oven for
5–10 minutes.
5 Divide the dough into
16 equal pieces. On a lightly
floured work surface, roll out
the first piece of dough to form
a paper-thin round, 6 inches across
(see below, left).
ROLLING OUT THE DOUGH
In step 5, use a narrow, In step 7, lift the dough
floured rolling pin to from the work surface
roll out each piece of the with the rolling pin and
dough into a paper-thin transfer it to a preheated
round. Cover with a damp floured baking sheet.
dish towel and rest the
dough for 2 minutes
if it resists rolling out.
130
—RECIPES—
PIADINA
ITALIAN FLAT BREAD
INGREDIENTS Let rise until doubled in size, about Rising II III
11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest 11⁄2 hoursVIII
2 tsp dry yeast for 10 minutes. (see pages 50–51)IX X
5 tbsp water IV
33⁄4 cups bread flour 5 Divide the dough into eight equal CookingXI XII I
PIADINA FILLED WITH pieces. On a lightly floured work •
PROSCIUTTO AND BASIL 2 tsp salt surface, roll out each piece to form
1 tbsp olive oil a round, 6 inches across and 1⁄2 inch VII VI V 5 minutes
1 cup carbonated water thick. If the dough resists rolling per bread
out, let it rest for 1–2 minutes,
Once the everyday fare 1 Sprinkle the yeast into the water then continue. Yield
in a bowl. Let stand for 8 breads
of the Romagna region, 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the 6 Heat a heavy frying pan or
this rustic flat bread is flour and salt in a large bowl. Make griddle over medium-low heat Yeast alternative
now popular all over Italy, a well in the center and pour in the until very hot, about 10 minutes. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
especially in bars, where dissolved yeast, the oil, and 2⁄3 cup of (see page 41)
it is usually served warm. the carbonated water. 7 Place one of the dough rounds
It is eaten either as an in the hot pan and prick all over
antipasto, cut into wedges 2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the with a fork to prevent air bubbles.
and sprinkled with olive reserved carbonated water, as Cook until golden brown on both
oil and salt, or as panini, needed, to form a firm, moist dough. sides, flipping it over frequently
wrapped around the to avoid scorching and to aid even
filling of your choice, 3 Turn the dough out onto a cooking, about 5 minutes.
such as prosciutto and lightly floured work surface.
basil (see above). Knead until smooth, shiny, and 8 Repeat with the remaining
elastic, about 10 minutes. dough rounds as directed in
step 7. Stack the rounds on top of
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl, one another and cover with a dish
then cover with a dish towel. towel to keep soft and warm.
—FLAT BREADS—
TORTA AL TESTO
“BREAD OF THE TILE”
The flat, crusty INGREDIENTS 6 Heat a heavy frying pan or Rising II III
griddle over medium-low heat 30 minutesVIII
appearance of this age-old for the dough until very hot, about 10 minutes. (see pages 50–51)IX X
peasant bread inspired its IV
name, testa, meaning 2 tsp dry yeast 7 Place one of the dough rounds Oven temperature
“tile” in Italian. Torta in the hot pan and prick all over 350ºF
al Testo is found almost 11⁄3 cups water with a fork to prevent air bubbles.
exclusively in its native Cook until golden on both sides, CookingXI XII I
Umbria, and then usually 33⁄4 cups bread flour flipping it over frequently to avoid •
a casa (in the home) scorching and to aid even cooking,
rather than on the menus 11⁄2 tsp salt about 5 minutes. Repeat with the VII VI V 5 minutes
of bars or restaurants. remaining dough rounds. per bread,
This flat bread is usually 1 tbsp olive oil plus 5 minutes
cooled, sliced, stacked, for the filling 8 Stack the rounds on top of one
and wrapped in foil, then another and cover with a dish Yield
filled and reheated just 21⁄2 cups shredded fontina towel to keep soft and warm. When 8 breads
before serving. the breads are cool enough to
6 cups arugula leaves handle, use a sharp knife to cut Yeast alternative
around the edge of each and, using 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
salt and freshly ground pepper your hands, divide it in half. Top (see page 41)
one half of each bread with fontina
1 Sprinkle the yeast into 3⁄4 cup plus and arugula, and season.
2 tbsp of the water in a bowl. Let
stand for 5 minutes, then stir to
dissolve. Mix the flour and salt
in a large bowl. Make a well in the
center and pour in the dissolved
yeast and the olive oil.
2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the 9 Place the other half on top of
reserved water, as needed, the filling and place the stuffed
to form a firm, moist dough. breads on two baking sheets. Bake
in the preheated oven for 5 minutes,
3 Turn the dough out onto a until hot and the cheese has melted.
lightly floured work surface. Cut into wedges. Serve immediately.
Knead until smooth, shiny, and
elastic, about 10 minutes.
4 Put the dough in a clean bowl;
cover with a dish towel. Let
rise until doubled in size, about
30 minutes. Punch down, then let
rest for 10 minutes.
5 Divide the dough
into eight pieces.
On a lightly floured work
surface, roll out each
piece of dough
to form
a round,
8 inches
across and 1⁄4 inch
thick. If the dough
resists rolling out, let
it rest for 1–2 minutes,
then continue.
133
—RECIPES—
P I TA Rising
11⁄2 hours
MIDDLE EASTERN BREAD POUCH (see pages 50–51)
6 Cover with a dish towel and Proofing
proof until slightly risen, about 20 minutes
20 minutes. (see page 57)
This staple bread of INGREDIENTS 7 Dust two baking sheets with Oven temperatureII III
flour and preheat in the oven 425ºFVIII
the Middle East, called 2 tsp dry yeast for 5 minutes. Place the dough ovals IX X
Khubz in Arabic, is more on the hot baking sheets and return BakingXI XII I IV
commonly known by its 1⁄2 tsp sugar immediately to the oven. Bake for •
Greek name, Pita, in the 5–10 minutes until puffy. Wrap in
West. Its soft, chewy crust, 11⁄4 cups water a clean, dry cloth to keep the crusts VII VI V 5–10 minutes
absorbent crumb, and soft and to prevent drying out.
hollow pouch make it the 33⁄4 cups bread flour Yield
most versatile of breads, VA R I AT I O N S 8 breads
ideal to scoop up, dip in, 1 tsp salt
wrap around, or be filled Whole-wheat Pita Yeast alternative
with all manner of food. 2 tbsp olive oil • Make one quantity Pita dough, 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
Best served warm, Pita can replacing the bread flour with 3⁄4 cup (see page 41)
be easily reheated: sprinkle 1 Sprinkle the yeast and sugar into plus 2 tablespoons whole-wheat
lightly with water and 1⁄2 cup of the water in a bowl. Let flour and 23⁄4 cups bread flour.
warm in the oven. Keep stand for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. • Continue with the recipe as directed
Pita in a sealed plastic Mix the flour and salt in a large in steps 3–7.
bag to prevent dryness. bowl. Make a well in the center and
pour in the dissolved yeast and the Lavash
olive oil. (Armenian Flat Bread)
(see page 22 for illustration)
2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the • Make one quantity Pita dough
remaining water, as needed, up to step 5.
to form a firm, soft dough. • Divide the dough into eight pieces.
Shape each piece into a smooth ball
3 Turn the dough out onto a (see page 55). Roll out each piece
lightly floured work surface. of dough on a lightly floured work
Knead until smooth, supple, and surface to form a very thin round,
elastic, about 15 minutes. Initially, about 12 inches across.
the dough will be quite stiff. It will • If the dough resists rolling out,
soften and stretch gradually as you let it rest for 1–2 minutes, then
continue kneading. continue. Cover the breads with a
dish towel and proof for 20 minutes.
4 Put the dough in an oiled bowl, Preheat the oven to 425°F.
turning it to coat evenly with • Dust two baking sheets with flour
the oil, and cover with a dish towel. and preheat in the oven for 5 minutes.
Let rise until doubled in size, about Bake the shaped dough pieces for
11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then let rest 2–5 minutes per batch, until puffy
for 10 minutes. and lightly colored.
• Wrap in a clean, dry cloth to keep
5 Divide the dough into eight the crusts soft and to prevent the
pieces. Shape each piece into a breads from drying out.
smooth ball (see page 55). On a lightly
floured work surface, roll out each
ball to form an oval, 9 inches long
and 1⁄4 inch thick.
134
—FLAT BREADS—
PAIN TUNISIEN
TUNISIAN SEMOLINA AND OLIVE OIL BREAD
This golden, seeded INGREDIENTS 4 Put the dough in a clean, oiled II IIIRising
bowl, then cover with a dish VIII 1–11⁄2 hours
bread is made with fine 2 tsp dry yeast towel. Let rise until doubled in size, IX X (see pages 50–51)
semolina, ground from about 1–11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then IV
North African durum 3⁄4 cup water let rest for 10 minutes. Proofing
wheat, which is also used 30–45 minutes
to make couscous, the 11⁄2 cups semolina 5 Divide the dough into two (see page 57)
staple grain of the region. pieces. On a lightly floured
The soft, absorbent crumb 2 cups bread flour work surface, shape each piece into Oven temperature
is especially suited to a flattened round, 7 inches across 400ºF
soaking up the rich, spicy 11⁄2 tsp salt and 1 inch thick.
sauces of tagines, the full- BakingXI XII I
flavored, slow-simmered 1⁄2 cup olive oil 6 Place the dough rounds on oiled •
stews of northern Africa. baking sheets, then cover with
This bread is perhaps best egg glaze, made with 1 egg yolk and a dish towel. Proof until doubled VII VI V 30 minutes
enjoyed as the heart of a 1 tbsp water (see page 58) in size, about 30–45 minutes. Steam optional
simple meal, served with (see page 63)
a bowl of olives, a few 4 tbsp sesame seeds 7 Brush the tops of the dough
dates, and a plate of cubed rounds with the egg glaze and Yield
white cheese. 1 Sprinkle the yeast into 1⁄2 cup sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds. 2 loaves
of the water in a bowl. Let stand Prick all over with a skewer or
for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix toothpick to prevent air bubbles. Yeast alternative
the semolina, flour, and salt in a 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
large bowl. Make a well in the center 8 Bake in the preheated oven for (see page 41)
and pour in the dissolved yeast and 30 minutes, until golden brown
the olive oil. and hollow sounding when tapped
underneath. Cool on a wire rack,
2 Mix in the flour. Stir in the then serve immediately.
remaining water, as needed,
to form a stiff, sticky dough.
3 Turn out onto a floured work
surface. Knead the dough until
smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
—RECIPES—
BARBARI
PERSIAN SESAME BREAD
INGREDIENTS 7 Dust two baking sheets with To begin
flour and preheat in the oven Sponge method
1 tsp honey until very hot, about 15 minutes. Time: 20 minutes
(see page 44)
11⁄4 cups water
Rising
2 tsp dry yeast 8 Use your fingertips to gently 11⁄2–2 hours
33⁄4 cups bread flour press into the surface of the (see pages 50–51)
dough to form nine dimples, about
11⁄2 tsp salt 3⁄4 inch deep, across the top of each Proofing
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to glaze round. Brush each round with olive 45 minutes
oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds. (see page 57)
2 tsp sesame seeds
Oven temperature
This light, crusty bread 1 Stir the honey into 2⁄3 cup 9 Place the shaped dough on the II III425ºF
of the water in a bowl, then hot baking sheets and bake in VIII
is Iran’s favorite breakfast sprinkle in the yeast. Let stand the preheated oven for 20 minutes, IX XBakingXI XII I
bread, especially when for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix until golden brown and hollow IV•
topped with crumbled the flour and salt in a large bowl. sounding when tapped underneath.
white cheese and Make a well in the center and pour Cool on a wire rack. VII VI V 20 minutes
sprinkled with fresh in the dissolved yeast.
herbs. When made with VA R I AT I O N Yield
milk instead of water 2 Use a wooden spoon to draw 4 breads
and sprinkled with sugar enough of the flour into the Spicy Seeded Persian Bread
instead of sesame seeds, dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. • Make one quantity Barbari dough Yeast alternative
the breads are called Cover the bowl with a dish towel, up to step 8, mixing 1 teaspoon 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
Shirmal and are a much then “sponge” until frothy and paprika and 1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne (see page 41)
loved children’s snack. risen, about 20 minutes. pepper into the flour in step 1.
• In step 8, dimple each round
3 Pour about half of the as instructed in the recipe.
remaining water and the olive • Brush the rounds with olive oil,
oil into the well. Mix in the rest then sprinkle 2 teaspoons each
of the flour. Stir in the reserved sesame seeds, poppy seeds, and
water, as needed, to form a firm, cumin seeds evenly over the top
moist dough. of the four rounds.
• Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place
4 Turn the dough out onto a the shaped dough on the hot
lightly floured work surface. baking sheets and bake in the
Knead until smooth, shiny, and preheated oven for 20 minutes,
elastic, about 10 minutes. until golden and hollow sounding
when tapped underneath.
5 Put the dough in a clean, oiled Cool on a wire rack.
bowl, turning it to coat evenly
with the oil, and cover with a dish
towel. Let rise until doubled in size,
about 11⁄2–2 hours. Punch down, then
let rest for 10 minutes.
6 Divide the dough into four
equal pieces. Shape each piece
into a round, 5 inches across and
1 inch thick. Cover with a dish towel
and proof until doubled in
size, about 45 minutes.
136
—FLAT BREADS—
PIDE
TURKISH SEEDED BREAD POUCH
Pide is baked in great INGREDIENTS 4 Turn the dough out onto a Rising II III
lightly floured work surface. 11⁄2 hoursVIII
quantities during the 2 tsp dry yeast Knead until smooth, supple, and IX X (see pages 50–51)
holy month of Ramadan. elastic, about 15 minutes. Initially, IV
According to the Koran, 1⁄2 tsp sugar the dough will be quite stiff. It will Proofing
bread was sent down to soften and stretch gradually as you 20 minutes
earth by God’s command, 11⁄4 cups water continue kneading. (see page 57)
and this soft, seeded bread
is traditionally eaten at 33⁄4 cups bread flour 5 Put the dough in a clean, oiled Oven temperature
sundown to break the bowl, turning it to coat evenly 425ºF
daily fast. Travelers’ tales 1 tsp salt with the oil. Cover with a dish towel,
of long ago tell of festive then let rise until doubled in size, BakingXI XII I
Pide of such huge size 2 tbsp olive oil about 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then •
that no oven could hold let rest for 10 minutes.
them and they were egg glaze, made with 1 egg and 1 tbsp VII VI V 10–15 minutes
put to bake in great, water (see page 58) 6 Divide the dough into two equal Steam optional
ember-filled pits. Plain pieces. Roll each piece into a (see page 63)
Pide, baked unglazed and 2 tsp nigella or black sesame seeds smooth ball (see page 55). On a lightly
without the sprinkling floured baking sheet, roll out each Yield
of seeds, is a regular 1 Sprinkle the yeast and sugar piece of dough to form a round, 2 breads
accompaniment to grilled into 1⁄2 cup of the water in a bowl. 10 inches across and 1⁄4 inch thick.
kebabs and köfte. Let stand for 5 minutes, then stir Cover with a dish towel and proof Yeast alternative
to dissolve. for 20 minutes. 1 cake (0.6oz) yeast
PIDE (see page 41)
2 Sift the flour and salt together in 7 Use the blunt edge of a knife
a large bowl. Make a well in the to gently draw four parallel
center and pour in the dissolved yeast impressions across the top of each
and the olive oil. dough round, then four more
impressions across the top in the
3 Mix in the flour. Stir in the
remaining water, as needed, opposite direction to make a
to form a firm, soft dough. crisscross pattern. Brush the
rounds with the egg glaze.
8 Sprinkle the
dough rounds
with nigella or
sesame seeds, then
place them on lightly
floured baking sheets.
9 Bake in the
preheated oven for
10–15 minutes, until puffy
and lightly colored.
Wrap the breads
immediately
in a dish towel
to keep the
crusts soft
and to prevent
drying out.
137
QUICK
BREADS
Q UICK BREADS CAN BE MADE IN MINUTES,
SINCE THEY DO NOT REQUIRE THE
PROLONGED KNEADING AND LENGTHY RISING
ESSENTIAL FOR YEAST-LEAVENED BREADS.
INSTEAD OF YEAST, THESE BREADS ARE MADE
WITH A CHEMICAL RISING AGENT, SUCH AS
BAKING POWDER OR BAKING SODA, THAT BEGINS
TO RELEASE GAS BUBBLES THE MOMENT IT IS
MOISTENED. WHEN MAKING QUICK BREADS,
IT IS IMPORTANT TO BLEND THE WET AND DRY
INGREDIENTS SEPARATELY AND COMBINE THEM
JUST BEFORE BAKING. SWIFT, GENTLE MIXING IS
ESSENTIAL BECAUSE IF THE BATTER IS BEATEN TOO
VIGOROUSLY, THE GLUTEN IN THE FLOUR WILL
STRENGTHEN THE MIXTURE AND THE TEXTURE
OF THE LOAF WILL BE TOUGH.
LEFT QUICK BREAD MUFFINS IN
A VARIETY OF FLAVOR VARIATIONS
—RECIPES—
CRANBERRY NUT LOAF
This festive, fruity INGREDIENTS VA R I AT I O N S II IIIOven temperature
VIII 350ºF
quick bread has become 1 tbsp oil, to grease pan Jamaican Banana Bread IX X
a favorite Thanksgiving • Make one quantity Cranberry Nut IVBakingXI XII I
gift in the United States. 2 cups all-purpose flour, Loaf batter, replacing the cranberries •
The cranberries give the plus extra to dust pan with three ripe bananas (12oz),
bread a juicy, tart bite that peeled and mashed, in step 2. 1 hourVII VI V
offsets the sweet, cakey 11⁄2 tsp baking powder • Add 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
crumb. This recipe can and 1⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg to Yield
be easily adapted to make 1⁄2 tsp baking soda the batter in step 3. 1 loaf
muffins as well as many • Spoon the batter into the prepared
other flavored loaves. 1⁄2 tsp salt loaf pan as directed in step 4 and
decorate the top of the loaf with
ABOVE (FROM TOP TO BOTTOM) 1⁄2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped 1⁄4 cup pecan halves.
BLUEBERRY NUT, LEMON • Bake and cool as directed in steps 4–5.
1 egg, beaten
POPPY SEED, AND CRANBERRY Cranberry Nut Muffins
NUT MUFFINS 3⁄4 cup milk • Make one quantity Cranberry Nut
Loaf batter up to step 4. Grease
3⁄4 cup sugar eight holes of a 12-hole muffin tin.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted • Spoon the batter into the muffin
tin, dividing it equally among the
13⁄4 cups fresh cranberries greased holes. Bake for 15 minutes.
• Remove from the oven and allow
1 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch to stand in the tin, about 10 minutes.
loaf pan with oil. Dust Run a knife around the edges of the
generously with flour, then baked muffins to loosen them. Turn
turn the pan to coat the out, and cool on a wire rack.
bottom and sides evenly.
Blueberry Nut Muffins
2 Sift the flour, baking • Make one quantity Cranberry Nut
powder, baking Loaf batter up to step 4, replacing
soda, and salt in a large bowl. the cranberries with 11⁄4 cups fresh
Stir in the pecans and make a well blueberries in step 2.
in the center. Put the remaining • Spoon the batter into the prepared
ingredients in a separate bowl and tin as directed in the recipe for
mix until thoroughly combined. Cranberry Nut Muffins.
• Bake and cool as directed in the
3 Pour the mixture and the recipe for Cranberry Nut Muffins.
cranberries into the well. Use
a spatula to gently fold all the Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins
ingredients together to form a • Make one quantity Cranberry Nut
wet batter. (Over-mixing can Loaf batter up to step 4, replacing
result in a heavy bread.) the cranberries and pecans with
2 tablespoons poppy seeds and the
4 Spoon the batter into the grated zest of one lemon in step 2.
prepared loaf pan. Bake in • Spoon the batter into the prepared
the preheated oven for 1 hour, until tin as directed in the recipe for
golden and well-risen. The bread is Cranberry Nut Muffins.
ready when the edges shrink from • Bake and cool as directed in the
recipe for Cranberry Nut Muffins.
the sides of the pan, and a metal
skewer inserted into the center
comes out clean.
5 Keep the bread in the pan and
let stand, about 10 minutes.
Carefully run a knife around the edges
and turn out. Cool on a wire rack.
140
—QUICK BREADS—
AUSTRALIAN DAMPER BREAD
Damper was the name INGREDIENTS 3 Turn the dough out onto a Oven temperatureII III
lightly floured work surface. 425ºFVIII
given to the bread cooked 23⁄4 cups bread flour Knead the dough lightly until smooth IX X
by early settlers in and soft, about 1 minute. BakingXI XII I IV
Australia. The name 1 cup whole-wheat flour •
apparently comes from 4 Shape into a round loaf (see
the “dampening,” or 4 tsp baking powder page 54) and place on a buttered VII VI V 40 minutes
filling, effect it had on baking sheet. Brush with milk and
the appetite. Damper was 1 tsp salt sprinkle with whole-wheat flour. Yield
originally made from just 1 loaf
flour mixed with water, 12⁄3 cups milk, 5 Cut a slash (see page 62), 1 inch
kneaded into a round, plus extra to glaze deep, across the top of the loaf,
flat cake, and baked in then another in the opposite
the ashes of a campfire. 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted direction to make an “X.”
Salt, milk, butter, and
baking powder were 1 Sift the flours, baking powder, 6 Bake in the preheated oven
added when, and if, and salt in a large bowl, then for 15 minutes, then reduce the
they were available. make a well in the center. oven to 350ºF and bake for
25 minutes longer, until golden
2 Stir the milk and the melted and hollow sounding when tapped
butter together in a separate underneath. Cool on a wire rack.
bowl. Pour the milk-butter mixture
into the flour well and quickly mix
in the flour from the sides of the
well to form a soft, sticky dough.
IRISH SODA BREAD
In Ireland, many INGREDIENTS 4 Shape into a flattened round, Oven temperatureII III
about 6 inches across and 400ºFVIII
traditional baked goods, 2 cups all-purpose flour, 2 inches thick. Dust with flour. Cut IX X
from soda bread to plus extra to dust a slash (see page 62), 1 inch deep, BakingXI XII I IV
scones, are made with across the top, then another in the •
buttermilk—the liquid 2 cups whole-wheat flour opposite direction to make an “X.”
left over from churning VII VI V 35 minutes
butter. If you have 1 tsp baking soda 5 Bake in the preheated oven for Steam optional
problems finding about 35 minutes, until hollow (see page 63)
buttermilk, simply 1 tsp salt sounding when tapped underneath.
substitute soured milk: Cover with a dish towel, Yield
place 1 tablespoon of 2 tbsp unsalted butter then cool on a 1 loaf
lemon juice or cider wire rack.
vinegar in a measuring 11⁄4 cups buttermilk
cup and fill it up to the
11⁄4 cup mark with 1 Sift the flours, baking soda, and
ordinary milk. This bread salt together in a large bowl. Rub
is best eaten on the day the butter into the flour with your
it is baked. fingertips until evenly dispersed.
2 Make a well in the center of
the mixture and pour in the
buttermilk. Use a wooden spoon
to stir in the flour to form a soft,
crumbly dough.
3 Turn the dough out onto a
lightly floured work surface.
Knead very lightly until smooth,
up to 3 minutes.
141
—RECIPES—
CLASSIC CORN BREAD
Corn bread is the INGREDIENTS edges shrink from the sides of the Oven temperatureII III
pan and a metal skewer inserted 425ºFVIII
original all-American 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted, into the center comes out clean. IX X
bread. Recipes abound, plus extra to grease pan BakingXI XII I IV
from family to family, 11⁄8 cups fine cornmeal 5 Turn out of the pan and cool •
and from region to 11⁄4 cups all-purpose flour slightly on a wire rack. Cut into
region, some made using 2 tsp baking powder squares and serve warm. VII VI V 20–25 minutes
white cornmeal, others 1⁄2 tsp baking soda
with yellow, some thin, 1 tbsp sugar VA R I AT I O N S Yield
others well-risen. Out of 1⁄2 tsp salt 1 loaf
this abundance, we chose 2 eggs, beaten Corn Sticks
this flavorful, enriched 2⁄3 cup buttermilk (see page 21 for illustration)
corn bread for its airy, 2⁄3 cup milk Corn sticks require a special cast-
slightly crunchy texture. iron pan with molds shaped like
little ears of corn (see page 36).
1 Grease a 9-inch square, • Preheat the oven to 425ºF.
2 inch deep, baking pan with Grease the pan with oil, making
melted butter. Place in the oven sure the molds are thoroughly
until very hot. coated. Place in the oven, and
leave until very hot.
2 Stir the cornmeal, • Make one quantity Classic
flour, baking Corn Bread batter as directed
powder, baking soda, in steps 2–3.
• Grease the pan again with melted
sugar, and salt together butter, and spoon the batter into
in a large bowl until the molds until just full.
thoroughly combined. • Bake for 15–20 minutes, until
Make a well in the golden and the edges shrink from
center. Whisk the eggs, the sides of the pan.
buttermilk, and milk • Gently ease out the sticks with
together in a separate a wooden skewer. Quickly rebutter
the mold and bake the second
bowl and stir in the batch. Serve hot or warm.
melted butter.
Tex-Mex Skillet Corn Bread
3 Pour the (see opposite for illustration)
mixture • Preheat the oven to 425ºF.
into the well, then Prepare a 9-inch heavy cast-iron
use a spatula to skillet according to the instructions
gently fold all the given for the cast-iron corn
ingredients together stick mold.
to form a wet batter. • Make one quantity Classic
(Over-mixing can result Corn Bread batter as directed
in a heavy bread.) in steps 2–3.
• Stir 11⁄8 cups grated cheddar and
4 Spoon the batter two jalapeño peppers, seeded and
into the hot chopped, into the batter in step 3.
buttered pan—it Continue as directed.
should sizzle. Bake in • Spoon the batter into the
the preheated oven for prepared skillet and bake as
20–25 minutes, until directed in steps 4–5.
golden and well-risen.
It is ready when the
142
—RECIPES—
PAIN D’EPICE
F R E N C H H O N E Y- S P I C E B R E A D
This aromatic bread, INGREDIENTS over low heat and stir until viscous, Oven temperature
about 3 minutes. 425ºF
with its distinctive moist 1 tbsp oil, to grease pan
honeycomb texture, dates 1 cup honey 2 Sift the flours, baking powder, BakingXI XII I
back to medieval times. spices, and orange zest together II III
The bread improves on 1⁄4 cup dark brown sugar in a large bowl. Make a well in the VIII
keeping, becoming more 1 cup whole-wheat flour center and pour in the eggs and milk. •IX X
moist, spicy, and flavorful. IV
For the best results, cool 11⁄4 cups rye flour 3 Stir in the honey mixture, 1 ⁄ hoursVII VI V 14
in the waxed paper, double 2 tsp baking powder drawing in the flour to form a
wrap in foil, and store for 1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon smooth batter. Pour the batter into Yield
up to three days at room 1⁄2 tsp ground anise seeds the pan; it will be three-quarters full. 1 loaf
temperature before eating. 1⁄4 tsp each ground star anise, grated
nutmeg, ground cloves, ground ginger 4 Bake in the preheated oven for
zest of 1 orange, grated 11⁄4 hours, until dark and fragrant.
Because of its high sugar content,
2 eggs, beaten the loaf may have to be covered with
1⁄2 cup milk foil to prevent it from burning, since
the top will become very dark during
1 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan cooking. The bread is ready when a
with oil and line the sides and metal skewer inserted into the center
bottom of the pan with waxed paper. comes out clean. Turn out of the loaf
Put the honey and the sugar in a pan pan, and cool on a wire rack.
OLD ENGLISH
CHEESE & APPLE LOAF
This moist and flavorful INGREDIENTS fingertips until the flour mixture II IIIOven temperature
resembles the texture of coarse VIII 350ºF
loaf, with its superlatively 1 tbsp oil, to grease pan breadcrumbs throughout. IX X
crunchy, cheesy crust, 4 cups all-purpose flour BakingXI XII I IV
is perfect for picnics and 1 tbsp baking powder 3 Stir the grated apple and cheese •
snacks. Any apples you into the flour-butter mixture.
have on hand can be used 1⁄2 tsp salt Add the beaten eggs and mix until VII VI V 11⁄2–2 hours
for this recipe; however, 4 tbsp unsalted butter evenly blended.
crisp, sharp baking apples 4 apples, peeled, cored, and grated Yield
like Granny Smith 11⁄8 cups grated cheddar 4 Spoon the batter into 1 loaf
are preferred. the prepared pan and
2 eggs, beaten sprinkle with oats. Bake
rolled oats, to sprinkle in the preheated oven
for 11⁄2–2 hours, until
1 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf golden brown and
pan with oil. Sift the flour, well-risen. The bread
baking powder, and salt together is ready when a metal
in a large bowl. skewer inserted into the
center of the loaf comes out
2 Rub the butter into the flour clean. Turn out of the loaf pan
mixture quickly with your and let cool on a wire rack.
144
—QUICK BREADS—
NUTTY YOGURT BREAD
INGREDIENTS • Continue as directed in step 3. Oven temperatureII III
Sprinkle the top of the loaf with 350ºFVIII
1 tbsp sunflower oil, plus extra to grease pan 2 teaspoons each sesame and poppy IX X
seeds in place of the sunflower seeds. BakingXI XII I IV
3 cups all-purpose flour •
Herbed Yogurt Bread
1 cup whole-wheat flour • Make one quantity Nutty Yogurt 1 hourVII VI V
Bread batter as directed in steps
1 tsp salt 1–2, replacing the nuts and seeds Yield
with 2 teaspoons dried mixed herbs 1 loaf
1 tsp cream of tartar (preferably herbes de Provence).
Any well-stocked pantry • Continue as directed in step 3.
1 tsp baking soda Sprinkle the top of the loaf with
should be able to provide 3 tablespoons grated cheddar in place
the ingredients for this 1 tsp baking powder of the sunflower seeds.
useful all-purpose
emergency loaf. Quick 2⁄3 cup mixed nuts, chopped Oaten Yogurt Bread
and easy to make, this • Make one quantity Nutty Yogurt
crusty loaf studded with 2⁄3 cup sunflower seeds Bread batter as directed in steps
crunchy nuts and seeds is 1–2, replacing the all-purpose flour
a perfect accompaniment 1 tsp honey with medium oatmeal and omitting
to a bowl of steaming the nuts and sunflower seeds.
soup. Delicious when 3⁄4 cup plain yogurt • Continue as directed in step 3.
served warm from the Sprinkle the top of the loaf with
oven, it also toasts well. 11⁄4 cups milk 2 tablespoons rolled oats in place
of the sunflower seeds.
2 tbsp sunflower seeds, to sprinkle
1 Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf
pan with oil. Sift the flours,
salt, cream of tartar, baking soda,
and baking powder together in a
large bowl. Stir in the nuts and
sunflower seeds.
2 Mix the honey, yogurt,
milk, and oil. Stir into
the dry ingredients and mix
to form a soft dough.
3 Spoon the batter into
the prepared pan and
smooth to level the top.
Sprinkle with sunflower
seeds. Bake in the
preheated oven for
1 hour, until golden and
risen. The bread is ready
when its edges shrink
from the sides of the pan.
VA R I AT I O N S
Seeded Yogurt Bread
• Make one quantity
Nutty Yogurt Bread
batter as directed in
steps 1–2, replacing
the nuts and sunflower
seeds with 3 tablespoons
each sesame and
poppy seeds.
FESTIVE
BREADS
T RADITIONALLY, FESTIVE BREADS HAVE
PLAYED A CENTRAL ROLE IN RELIGIOUS
HOLIDAYS AND SEASONAL CELEBRATIONS.
AS A MARK OF THEIR SPECIAL, FESTIVE STATUS,
THESE BREADS ARE HEAVILY ENRICHED AND HIGHLY
FLAVORED WITH ONCE-TREASURED INGREDIENTS,
SUCH AS FRESH EGGS AND BUTTER, CANDIED FRUIT,
AND EXOTIC SPICES. MADE WITH CARE FOR SPECIAL
OCCASIONS, THE RECIPES ARE OFTEN ELABORATE
AND TIME-CONSUMING TO PREPARE. THE
TECHNIQUES DISCUSSED IN THE FLAVORED AND
ENRICHED BREAD SECTIONS, SUCH AS WORKING
IN HEAVY INGREDIENTS AND HANDLING SOFT,
BUTTER- AND EGG-RICH DOUGHS, ARE PARTICULARLY
USEFUL WHEN MAKING THESE BREADS.
LEFT STOLLEN, THE TRADITIONAL
GERMAN CHRISTMAS BREAD
—RECIPES—
DRESDNER CHRISTSTOLLEN
CHRISTMAS STOLLEN
A specialty of INGREDIENTS about 20 minutes. Add the sugar II IIIXI XII ITo begin
and butter to the flour well. Mix the VIII• Sponge method
Dresden, this 11⁄4 packed cups raisins flour in to form a soft, firm dough. IX X Time: 20 minutes
traditional German IVVII VI V(see page 44)
Christmas bread is now 3⁄4 cup dried currants 4 Turn the dough out onto a
enjoyed around the world. lightly floured work surface. Rising
The name, Christstollen, 3⁄4 cup chopped blanched almonds Knead until smooth and elastic, 11⁄2 hours
is taken from its unusual about 10 minutes. Put the dough in (see pages 50–51)
shape—a long loaf with 1⁄2 cup mixed candied peel, chopped a buttered bowl and cover with a dish
a ridge down the middle towel. Let rise until doubled in size, Proofing
and tapering ends—which grated zest of 2 lemons about 11⁄2 hours. Punch down, then 1 hour
is said to represent the let rest for 10 minutes. (see page 57)
Christ Child wrapped 1⁄2 tsp ground cardamom
in swaddling clothes. 5 On a lightly floured work Oven temperature
Traditionally, two Stollen 1⁄4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg surface, use the palms of both 350ºF
should be baked at the hands to flatten the dough into
same time—one for giving pinch of black pepper a square, about 1 inch thick. Scatter Baking
and one for keeping. This the fruit and almond mixture evenly 11⁄2 hours
rich, heavy fruit dough 1⁄2 tsp vanilla extract over the dough and knead gently
needs an extra-large until evenly incorporated Yield
amount of yeast to rise. 3 tbsp dark rum (see page 99). 1 loaf
6 tsp dry yeast 6 Roll out the dough on a lightly Yeast alternative
floured work surface to form a 3 cakes
1 cup lukewarm milk flat oval, 14 inches long and 1 inch (0.6oz-sized) yeast
thick. Place on a buttered baking (see page 41)
33⁄4 cups bread flour sheet. Make a lengthwise indentation
down the center. Fold the dough in
11⁄2 tsp salt half lengthwise, leaving a 1-inch flap.
Press the flap over to seal.
1⁄2 cup sugar
7 Use your hands to plump a small,
10 tbsp unsalted butter, softened rounded ridge down the center.
Cover with a dish towel and proof
confectioners’ sugar, for dusting until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
1 Place the dried fruits, nuts, peel,
lemon zest, spices, and black
pepper in a bowl. Pour in the vanilla
extract and rum, and soak for 2 hours.
2 Sprinkle the yeast into the milk in
a bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes;
stir to dissolve. Mix the flour and salt
in a large mixing bowl. Make a well
in the center of the flour and pour in
the dissolved yeast.
3 Use a wooden spoon to draw 8 Bake in the preheated oven for
enough of the flour into the 11⁄2 hours, until firm, and a metal
dissolved yeast to form a soft paste. skewer inserted into the center comes
Cover with a dish towel and “sponge” out clean. Cool on a wire rack. Dust
until frothy and risen, with confectioners’ sugar, then store
in an airtight container
for at least a week.
Serve sliced.
148
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