Vanity Fair UK 10.2021

Stopwatch /News Report

AMBASSADORS

TAG Heuer has tapped the Destinations, counts 19m welcomed Spanish has joined the Hublot
track and field star Sydney followers is a champion of badminton player, Carolina family. Her restaurant,
McLaughlin (right) as travel as “a force for good Marín, a gold medallist at Core, which opened in 2017
brand ambassador. The for travellers and the both the 2016 Olympics in Notting Hill, serves up
21-year-old American destinations they visit”. and the 2018 world fine British fare.
sprinter and hurdler broke championships, as a new
her own world record in the Korean actor Kim member of its “crew”. Montblanc has named
400m hurdles by clocking Woo-Bin, a runway model Irish actor Cillian Murphy
at 51.46 seconds to win gold turned popular TV and film Clare Smyth MBE, the and the Berlin-based, South
at the Tokyo Olympics. star is now an ambassador first and only British Korean DJ and producer
for Jaeger-LeCoultre. female chef to hold three Peggy Gou as “Mark
The Australian actress Michelin stars in the U.K., Makers” to embody the
Margot Robbie, who played Maurice Lacroix has brand’s “What moves you,
Leonardo DiCaprio’s makes you” campaign.
glamorous wife in The
Wolf of Wall Street, has been The Chinese actor and
named Chanel’s new brand singer Xiao Zhan is
ambassador for the J12. Zenith’s new brand
ambassador. As role model
Panerai has named to young people in Asia and
Jeremy Jauncey as global beyond, Zenith has chosen
ambassador. The this celebrity to embody the
entrepreneur and social spirit of “Time To Reach
media star whose Your Star” of the DEFY
Instagram profile, Beautiful Extreme collection.

Sights & SOUNDS Spacetime is made up of a touch of reality to the
dozens of suspended wrist of Dani Rojas, a
Jaeger-LeCoultre has images of watch parts. Seen guerrilla soldier fighting to
commissioned a new work from certain angles, the free the fictional Caribbean
from the American artist, images combine to bring island nation of Yara from
Michael Murphy (below). into view that of a Reverso the grips of its ruling
His interactive installation Tribute Nonantième. This dictator.
work, which explores the
relationship between time As timekeeper for the Wearably ILLUSTRATIONS BY EWELINA DYMEK.
upcoming season of Jazz at
and space, will be shown Lincoln Center, Grand MINDFUL
around the world Seiko will sponsor virtual
through to the end of concerts under the Apple’s latest wearable
the year. direction of New Orleans- watchOS 8 operating
Hamilton’s born Wynton Marsalis. system is available this
Khaki Field autumn as a free software
Titanium Raymond Weil pays update. A reimagined
Automatic will be tribute to the Fab Four Breathe app becomes the
featured in the new with the Maestro Let It Be Mindfulness app, with an
Far Cry 6 video game The Beatles Limited enhanced “breathe
franchise series Edition. This fourth (and experience”, and a new
scheduled to launch final) in the series is limited session type called Reflect
on October 7 (see to 3,000 and features a that offers a “mindful
p. 58). Built for mechanical self-winding intention to focus on, for as
action, both skeleton movement housed little as one minute, that
virtual or in a stainless steel case on a can be done anywhere
off-screen, the vegan “leather” strap. On and at any time”.
military the caseback, a smoked
model brings sapphire crystal bears the
official Beatles logo.

30 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021

TIME INSTRUMENTS
FOR URBAN EXPLORERS

BR 05 Chrono Automatic 42mm 100m water-resistant Boutique London Mayfair +44 (0)207 629 6464 bellross.com

Stopwatch /News Report

NEW BOUTIQUES

Jaeger-LeCoultre will Madison, to celebrate the Building a style. The show will travel
open its 1931 Café this brand’s long-standing ties to the Dallas Museum of
October in Paris to celebrate with America (witness this GLOBAL STYLE Art next spring.
the 90th anniversary of the year’s American 21).
Reverso. The pop-up will be Long before globalisation, bats designed by Berd
open from October 21 to Bell & Ross has opened Cartier was travelling the Vay’e, makers of one-of-a-
December 24 at 15 Rue du its first boutique in Tokyo’s world, finding inspiration kind plexiglass objects that
Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Ginza district, steps from in far-away destinations incorporate vintage watch
Its art deco-inspired decor the Ginza 4-chome and where the Cartier brothers components. Each bat
evokes the interior of an Higashi Ginza crossings, collected patterns, colors includes a combination
ocean liner with a touch of and the Kabuki theatre. and textiles that helped to of watch parts and wooden
1930s Hollywood glamour, define the Cartier style at slivers from bats once
to echo the aesthetics of the Purnell has opened a the turn of the 20th owned by Chicago Cubs
Reverso designed in 1931. boutique in Geneva at 80 century. Opening on baseball outfielder, Ian Happ.
An exhibition exploring Rue du Rhône within a October 21, an exhibition
the history of the Reverso 150km radius of its called Cartier and Islamic
since 1931 titled Timeless manufacture in the Vallée Art: In Search of Modernity
Stories will be deployed over de Joux, a distance at the Musée des Arts
the café’s four floors. For measured to minimise the Décoratifs in Paris will
those in need of a creamy carbon footprint associated explore through 500
break, the Paris-based with the production and pieces, many from the
pastry chef Nina Métayer sale of the brand’s products. Cartier collection, the
will serve up art deco- influence of art and
inspired cakes made with Bucherer has opened a geometric motifs from the
flavours sourced in the new boutique in London’s Islamic world in the Cartier
Vallée de Joux, home to Covent Garden district,
Jaeger-LeCoultre. while A. Lange & Söhne the “Capsules, Carrures and
now has a boutique on the Bracelets” to design their
Vacheron Constantin ground floor of Harrods in own watch by combining a
has opened its first boutique Knightsbridge. range of separate parts.
in Monaco with direct
access to the Place du Hegid, the maker of Goldsmith &
Casino. Its gleaming New “evolutive” mechanical Complications has
York flagship spanning watches, has opened a opened a new concept store
4,500sqft over two floors boutique on Paris’s Rue in Delray Beach, Florida, in
behind a glass facade has Volney. The new store is an which clients can choose
also opened at 28 East 57th “objet d’art” gallery where from a series of 30 baseball
Street between Park and clients can choose from a
range of non-horological
objects designed by local
artisans, and sort through

TOOL TIME: Filing Rest by Justin Koullapis of The Watch Club ILLUSTRATIONS BY EWELINA DYMEK; JUSTIN KOULLAPIS (FILING REST).

G  iven the paucity of OEM spare parts, one part that is the protruding workpiece. The watchmaker files the work;
often custom-made is the winding stem. This round as the file cuts it creates an emerging flat area. This descends
shaft has a square region where the castle wheel as filing proceeds, until the flat and the file reach the same
slides between winding and set-hands action.
The venerable method is to file it by hand— level as the rollers, then the file simply glides
almost impossible without mechanical on the rollers without cutting any more. An
assistance. Horological lathe manufacturers exact flat is thus produced without risking
therefore devised the Filing Rest. The going too far or too skew. The work is rotated
nascent winding stem is held in a chuck in though 90 degrees, locked, and the next flat
the lathe. The banana-shaped filing rest is produced. Four passes make a square; the
mounted with its two steel rollers straddling work is then finished by hand-lapping with
oilstone dust and a bell-metal strip.

32 VA N I T Y F A I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021

Shizukuishi. A land of majestic white birch groves.
A spring of constant inspiration for Grand Seiko.
Here, light and shadow are in dynamic harmony.
And Time is etched with intricate precision.
Here, the TAKUMI infuse the essence of Nature into
each and every timepiece, bringing its true beauty to life.

Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture

Heritage Collection Series 9 SLGH005 Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5 grand-seiko.com

The Spotlight Squad

Charlize Theron
Misty Copeland
Yao Chen

Essay / Apps & Customisation

Go FIGURE

The wizardry of digital
watch configurators means
that customisation and big
brands can go hand in hand

By Ming Liu

BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT (BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT CUSTOMISER); PORSCHE DESIGN (PORSCHE DESIGN CUSTOM-BUILT TIMEPIECES CONFIGURATOR). TWO OF THE biggest buzz words in and experimenting. Heavyweights From top: The Bamford Watch Department
watchmaking right now—customisation Omega, Rolex and Tudor aren’t in customiser; Hublot Big Bang One Click King
and digital—also happen to be the business of offering a direct, Gold White Diamonds 33mm; Porsche Design
antipodes: individual and thoughtful on online bespoke service, but they’re Custom-Built Timepieces Configurator.
one side, mass market and convenient still embracing configurators in spirit:
on the other. A small tribe of forward- head to their websites and you can selecting five different watch parts.
thinking watchmakers, however, have input options—favourite model, size, Customers submitted their designs and
managed to alchemise the two—the voted on others, and the campaign saw
result being the wizardry that’s known case finish, among other fields— some 48,000 original entries receiving
as the digital watch configurator. These to search for a watch that’s more than 16m votes worldwide. In
online platforms and apps empower August, Seiko produced and released
customers to design their own watch right for you. the winning watch—its gold dial paired
from their favourite brands, all at the Notably, straps are where with a red and blue bezel—in a limited
click of a mouse—and to the tune of run of 2,021 pieces and sold online.
some millions of options. configurators are increasingly
popular. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s SEIKO’S SERVICE HAS now closed, but
Digital configurators have online Strap Finder the configurator par excellence with
come of age in recent years, automatically suggests serious staying power is Bamford
with watch brands taking their various strap options Watch Department’s, which is the
cue from the automobile before purchase, while most comprehensive customiser on
and fashion sectors. Hublot clients can virtually the market by far, with more than a
Just as Range Rover trillion possible permutations. Founder
Autobiography or Singer try on different straps for their George Bamford is synonymous
for Porsche enable clients Big Bang watches, thanks to with personalisation, and he launched
to kit out their cars to their its signature One Click strap- his online configurator soon after
own specs, and monogram changing system. And full watch becoming the official personalisation
leather accessories to their configurators will continue to crop partner for LVMH watches in 2017.
hearts’ content, so too has the up: between October 2020 and Today, clients can customise some of
watch world had its own January this year, Seiko’s Beatmaker horology’s greats from the comfort
configurator interpretations. customiser invited users to build their of their homes, including a TAG
Vacheron Constantin, IWC and dream Seiko 5 Sports watch online by Heuer Monaco or Carrera to a Zenith
Parmigiani have all played with Chrono El Primero or Franck Muller
proprietary online configurators; most Casablanca. Bamford credits the
have been discontinued, but that’s configurator’s success to being “outside
mainly down to brands still exploring the watch brands” and essentially
digitising his core business. “We’re set
up for stripping and rebuilding,” he
says. “Brands can do personalisation,
but it’s a nightmare dealing with it.
They’re in a hard situation because they

VA NI TY FA IR O N TI M E AUTUMN 2021 35

Essay / Apps & Customisation

BRANDS /MODEL Bamford Watch Department Bamford London Bremont Bulgari

Franck Muller Casablanca; GMT MBII Octo Roma Naturalia
Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye;
TAG Heuer: Monaco, Autavia,
Carrera; Zenith: Chrono El Primero,
Pilot Chrono, Heritage 146

Chronomaster

YEAR LAUNCHED 2017 2021 2020 2021
CUSTOMISABLE
Host of dial colours, ranging from Nine colour options from blue Blue, black, white Three choices of natural
OPTIONS 11 to more than 20 options (depending and steel to sand and black stones: black onyx, lapis
DIAL lazuli, green malachite
on the brand and model). Hues Black steel or traditional steel
CASE AND CASEBACK include the likes of aqua blue and DLC or stainless steel Sandblasted titanium,
satin-polished rose gold or
British racing green to tango
and hurricane grey satin-polished platinum

Some models, such as TAG Heuer Diamonds or black
and Zenith, offer special coatings, onyx setting
including matte black, polished or

brushed steel, or an aged finish

BEZEL Eight different dual-tone colour
combinations, i.e. black and green,

blue and orange, red and blue,
or full aqua

HANDS More than 12 colour options, including Nine colour options
Ferrari Red, BWD Green and
BWD Purple

STRAP More than 12 colour options 11 colour options, including black 11 options, including steel or leather, Current options include
CLASP and finishes steel or cordura in various colours the latter with various contrasting blue, green and black

stitching options alligator

Pin buckle or deployant clasp Choice of blackened steel,
rose gold or white gold

EXTRAS 1 Additional dial options, including Additional colour options for Nine barrel colour options: Lugs can also be gem-set
EXTRAS 2 personalised tachymeter marks, seconds hand and 24H hand, each blue, orange, yellow, green,
dial ring, minute markers, lume with nine different colours, plus five purple, military-inspired anthracite,
colours, and a large selection
special seconds hand designs bronze, jet and titanium
of baton and subdial colours

Customisable brand logos Initial engraving on dial,
and personalised initials and graphic stamps i.e. “you rock”,

“love”, “rockstar”

TOTAL POSSIBLE More than one trillion 12 million 1,320 30
PERMUTATIONS 1.5 months 1.5 months Five to eight weeks Two months

DELIVERY TIME

36 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

Dior Piaget Porsche Design
Infinitely Personal
Grand Bal
“Created to Measure” Altiplano Ultimate Concept Altiplano Tourbillon Chronotimer Series 1 Chronograph 911 GT3

2019 2020 2020 (in U.K.)

Vast range of coloured lacquers and The bridge, screws and mainplate Range of colours alongside métiers Base colour of black Base colour: “GT” dial,
gemstone dials, such as opal, can all be customised in d’art options, including hand- Natural titanium or black titanium black with yellow details
various colours
mother-of-pearl, malachite and engraved guilloché, enamel grand Natural titanium or
veined turquoise among others feu decoration and mother-of-pearl black titanium

in four different hues

Gold or steel Seven case colour options, Two sizes, 38mm or 41mm; various
including slate blue and silver-black gold and gem-setting options

Brilliant or baguette diamonds Gem-setting options on request, Four choices: Four choices:
including diamonds, emeralds natural titanium—tachymeter; natural titanium—
Various styles on request natural titanium—timer (rotating); tachymeter; natural
and sapphires black titanium—tachymeter; titanium—timer (rotating);
Various styles and finishes, or black titanium—timer (rotating) black titanium—
including satin, leather, alligator tachymeter; or black
titanium—timer (rotating)
and denim
Multiple options on request Large range of colours and materials, Two choices for seconds hand: Three choices for seconds
with different sizes available Essence (black rhodium-plated with hand: GT hands (yellow
Various options for colour and red tip); Performance (matte white
material, including leather, canvas with yellow tip);
with red tip) Essence (black rhodium
and alligator
14 colours for leather, plated with red tip);
or titanium bracelet in glass- Performance (matte
bead-blasted natural titanium or white with red tip)
black-coated titanium carbide;
19 colours of Porsche yarn for stitching Leather or titanium
bracelet, with option for
a sportier 911 GT3 finish on

the leather option

Titanium bracelet: option for folding Titanium bracelet: option
clasp with push-pieces, or folding for folding clasp with
clasp with fine adjustment. push-pieces, or folding
Also includes option for additional
leather strap clasp with fine adjustment.
Also includes option for
additional leather strap

Customisable oscillating mass with Three initials or numbers on right Ring around the tourbillon cage can Option for dial-ring colour in some Option for dial-ring colour
couture-style details in a host of side of the dial be customised, plain or gem-set, 30 different colours that nod to in 15 different hues that nod
and/or with engraved text the spectrum of Porsche colours,
colours and finishes, including finely 195,000 to Porsche colours, i.e.
latticed, draped, feathered, i.e. Jet Black Metallic, Racing Yellow, Shark Blue, Racing Yellow,
Aventurine Green Metallic, Carmine
sun-pleated or beribboned motif Red, Carrera White Metallic, Lava Agate Grey Metallic,
Carrera White Metallic,
Option for sun sign constellation Orange, among others
on caseback among others

140,000 Four million 10 different winding rotor styles Winding rotor coming
(plus two colour options: satin in six different colours, i.e.
platinum or satin black), which nod Satin Neodyme, Satin Black
to Porsche rim designs, i.e. Turbo S with ring in Guards Red,
winding rotor, 911 Carrera Classic
winding rotor, 911 Sport RS Spyder Satin Dark Silver
winding rotor, among others
1.5 million
1.5 million

Six months 12 months 12 months From two months From two months

AUTUMN 2021 37

Essay / Apps & Customisation

have a production line—to stop and do a From top: Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Infinitely collection etc. on a fixed basis, not P I AG E T ( P I AG E T A LT I P L A N O TO U R B I L LO N I N F I N I T E LY P E R S O N A L C O N C E P T ) ; B U LGA RI ( B U LGA RI O C TO RO M A N AT U RA L I A ) ; D I O R WAT C H E S ( T H E D I O R C R E AT I V E S T U D I O ) ; B R E M O N T ( B R E M O N T M B I I M O D E L S F RO M M B O N L I N E C O N F I G U RATO R ) .
single watch is quite a big uptake. Costs Personal Concept—with choice of dial, case on a one-shot basis.” A similar format
spiral out of control quite dramatically.” and strap; Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia, with is found at Piaget and Dior—for the
bespoke hand-cut dial stones; Dior’s creative Altiplano and Grand Bal models
To address that, big brands are studio provides expert design guidance; respectively—and expect to see more
embracing modular personalisation, selection of customisable Bremont MBII watches. digital configurators as a regular
where users are restricted to a set feature in stores soon.
number of options. Bulgari has taken
this route with its new Octo Roma After all, there is something quite
Naturalia bespoke service, a program addictive about a customiser. Bremont’s
rooted in craftsmanship that invites co-founder Giles English said he was
customers to pick three hard stones “blown away by how much people
for the dial—black onyx, lapis lazuli wanted to configure stuff”, after
or malachite—which is then hand launching an online customiser for its
cut and polished, the thin slice of aviation-themed MBII watch last year.
stone inserted among the watch’s A collaboration with ejection-seat
skeletonised components. All this is specialists Martin-Baker—where select
facilitated by Maestria (named after clients can create bespoke MBs around
handmade craftsmanship), a state- their military associations—means the
of-the-art tablet app that salespeople collection is already personalised, but
can use to help customers create the online configurator enhanced the
their ultimate Octo (there are further service further. “Digital is actually so
options for the case, case setting and much better than physical because
personalised engraving). people can really spend time and look
through the options,” says English—
THE APP, SAYS Antoine Pin, managing a sentiment that’s echoed by Bamford,
director of Bulgari’s watch division, who says that a configurator basically
fuses bespoke watchmaking and 21st channels his inner child, to build his
century innovation. “This modular fantasy watch. “I just love geeking out
proposal means that the final watch on customisers and I wanted others to
is created in less time, but with the have that similar kid vibe of: ‘I want
same level of meticulously handmade to build it how I want it.’” In the end,
craftsmanship, which is a totally unique who can argue with that? n
position in the haute horlogerie
market,” he says. “The key concept is
fundamentally to offer a structured
service of personalisation of a product,

38 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021

TIME, A HERMÈS OBJECT.

HERMÈS H08
THE TEXTURE OF TIME

Essay / Computers & Watches

Giulio Papi (left) and Dominique to emulate all kind of real mechanisms,
Renaud were early adopters but it does not ‘know’ what we are
of CAD drawing software. doing,” he says. “We can use different
software to design, calculate and co-
Computer Says YES ordinate the processes with millions of
different combinations of thousands
Long the leader in mechanical watchmaking, Switzerland was of parameters that improve reliability;
nearly broken when the industry moved to quartz. Luckily, the calculations that would be impossible
advent of CAD software was revolutionary. By Anders Modig for a human brain to perform—but only
a creative human brain can come up
AROUND THE TIME the hedonistic era extremely complicated timepieces for with the right algorithms.” COURTESY OF DOMINIQUE RENAUD & GIULIO PAPI.
of Studio 54 went to its grave and Wall brands such as Audemars Piguet and
Street greed took over, computers Richard Mille, situated in Le Locle When you drive north-east to La
became the norm in the higher echelons in the Jura Mountains) claims he Chaux-de-Fonds from Papi’s
of Swiss watchmaking. And the was the leader of the pack. manufacture, along the straight valley
industry has never looked back. road that is the aorta for watchmaking
“We launched in 1986 [as Renaud in the Jura, one of the first companies
As Einstein once put it: “In & Papi together with Dominique you come to is TAG Heuer. Founded in
Switzerland, everything happens 20 Renaud, who sold his share in 2000], 1860 by Edouard Heuer, its silvery,
years later.” Although computer-driven and our immediate success had two horizontally striped main building
2D and 3D tools were invented in the explanations: we designed and houses the office of designer Guy Bove,
1950s and ’60s, it would take another introduced modular minute repeaters product director at TAG Heuer.
couple of decades of (much-needed) —and we were the first team to
development before computers would introduce computers in traditional Given the circumstances, however,
become vital tools in helping the quartz Swiss watchmaking.” we see each other on a Teams screen.
crisis-ravaged Swiss watch industry to “I have designed with computers for
again climb the Parnassus of horology. Papi was 21 at the time—and the the past 25 years,” says the man who has
sonic waves that made him tick were worked for IWC, Chopard, Ferdinand
Giulio Papi of Audemars Piguet somewhat different to those of Studio Berthoud and Breitling.
Renaud & Papi (manufacturer of 54: “A computer is a fantastic machine
The U.S.-born designer’s love of
programs such as Rhino for 3D
designing, KeyShot for 2D images and
Alias for 3D building and rendering
could be described with one word:
details. When you build a watch in 3D,
it is extremely close to the production
piece. The virtual environment lets
you test colours, finishes, and different
materials. You can see it in different
light situations, which makes it possible
to complete a huge chunk of the
evaluation process before you get
anywhere near 3D-printed models and
prototypes. “We spend a lot of time on
dials,” he continues. “Let’s say you want
to put a carbon texture on a dial. As
we’re into technical sporty products,
we need to get these textures perfect—
and we want to know the look exactly
before entering the production phase.”

Once Bove and his team have
confirmed that a watch and its details
work in 3D, they go to 2D, as this is
much faster than rendering images
or films from 3D files.

Bove shares a screen with me to show
another aspect of designing with
computers. A TAG Heuer Carrera case

40 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

TAG H E U E R ( T 1 W O R K S H O P AT T H E TAG H E U E R M A N U FAC T U R E ; O N LY WAT C H C A R B O N M O N AC O ; D E S I G N AT TAG H E U E R ; Clockwise from top: the T1 “Software can do of thinking: you instantly think of
QUALITY CONTROL AT THE TAG HEUER MANUFACTURE); OMEGA (METAS TESTING; SEAMASTER 300M MASTER Workshop at the TAG Heuer interaction between components,
CHRONOMETER WATCH; FACTORY, ROBOTIC ARMS). Manufacture; TAG Heuer Only CALCULATIONS which makes conception easier. Also 3D
Watch Carbon Monaco; designing solutions make it possible to anticipate
at TAG Heuer; quality control at impossible for phenomena like metallic movement,
the TAG Heuer Manufacture. a human brain—but shocks and acceleration. But you must
only a HUMAN can still physically test what you anticipate
appears, swiftly enlarged to a scale with the computers,” she says.
where one corner of a horn fills my come up with the
screen. “If I were working by hand, right algorithms.” Coming down the mountains from
I would not make a detail here,” he says, La Chaux-de-Fonds to Biel/Bienne is
pointing out a phased edge. “This a drive through postcard-Switzerland
possibility of attention to detail lets me with perpetually snow-capped Alps
do things I could not even think of.” and turquoise lakes in the distance.
The industrial parts of Biel have been
BOVE IS OFTEN working in tandem with
Carole Forestier-Kasapi, movements
director at TAG Heuer. For Forestier-
Kasapi, the big revolution was the shift
from 2D to 3D in the late 1990s. “To
work in 3D really changes the way

From left: Omega Metas testing;
Seamaster 300m Co-Axial Master
Chronometer Watch certified by
Metas; Omega’s building, designed
by Shigeru Ban; robotic arms identify
and package Omega watches.

AUTUMN 2021 41

Essay / Computers & Watches

enhanced by Swatch Group’s Clockwise from left: Patek “A computer doesn’t PATEK PHILIPPE (CNC MILLING MACHINE; STAR CALIBER 2000 WATCH; THE GRANDMASTER CHIME); INTERFOTO/ALAMY (IBM COMPUTER);
collaboration with Japanese architect Philippe’s CNC milling machine; know BEAUTY. PATEK PHILIPPE (CALIBRE 300 MOVEMENTS); VACHERON CONSTANTIN (DIGITAL CERTIFICATION OF AUTHENTICATION).
Shigeru Ban, who designed the new Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch;
Swatch headquarters and the For instance: what
neighbouring Omega manufacture, The Grandmaster Chime. makes a nice chime?
where CEO Raynald Aeschlimann A human must cut
presides from a lofty office in an components in the 1980s. This became
environmentally sound wood the basis of industrialisation and the gong, choose
construction. optimised our production and other the diameter.”
processes,” Aeschlimann says. He
“We introduced 3D modelling points out industrial 4.0 solutions, industrial practices, where machines
of cases, movements and other especially in the control and testing for communicate with each other without
the Master Chronometer certification the need of human intervention.
process. Sometimes referred to as
the fourth industrial revolution, 4.0 “All physical quality-control tools
solutions is the ongoing automation are now digitalised, and the quality-
of traditional manufacturing and control 3D scanners confirm that all
components adhere to specifications,”
says Aeschlimann. “It would be
impossible for a human to control the
hundreds of different steps applied to
thousands of watches, but we have no
intention of replacing human creativity
and the human art of watchmaking.
The making of watches is still—and
will remain—a manufacture that is
made by humans.”

Aeschlimann’s explanation reminds
us of the paradoxical etymology of
the word manufacture from manu
factum—made by hand.

Patek Philippe’s choice of pandemic
communication venue is Webex,
through which R&D director Philip
Barat waves to me from his office
in the company’s campus in

COMPUTERS & WATCHES Through the Ages

Material for the timeline for computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacture (CAD/CAM) in the watch industry

EARLY 1950S Sketchpad, 1971 1981 2014 without the aid introduces
The term developed by Ivan Patrick Hanratty CAD/CAM The Calibre 300 of CAD/CAM blockchain-driven
launches MCS, becomes widely
“computer-aided Sutherland whose programs available thanks Grandmaster 2015 authenticity
design” was first are the roots of to IBM’s affordable Chime launched. Automated quality certification
used (by Douglas 1968 most of today’s computers The movements to combat
T. Ross, working Renault’s Pierre within would have control scanners  counterfeiting
with military radar Bézier (of the products 1986—1987 been impossible
technology and smooth Bézier CAD/CAM gets 2019 2030
computer display curve) invented implemented by to produce Vacheron Potential future:
Audemars Piguet Constantin
systems) Unisurf, Renaud & Papi, Virtual aging
integrating Patek Philippe, replaces physical
1963 drawing, CNC, Omega and more testing alongside
The first true CAD and free-form
surface design voice-driven
software called CAD systems

42 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

GRAND SEIKO (CALIBRE 9SA5 PALLET FORK; ESCAPE WHEEL; MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS; WATCH); Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. Early on Clockwise from left: mechanical know-how by using cutting-edge
© ROLEX/FRED MERZ (COMEX HYPERBARIC TESTING UNIT); © ROLEX/JVA STUDIOS (OYSTER PERPETUAL WATCH). in our meandering conversation Barat movements; Grand Seiko 9SA5 technologies, which allows the brand
tells me that the artisans are not there pallet fork and escape wheel, both to carry out its perpetual quest for
for nostalgic reasons. Even with the made using MEMS technology; excellence,” says the company in a
best tools, the precision delivered statement prepared for Vanity Fair On
during production is not enough. Grand Seiko SLGH005G. Time. “One example is the Superlative
Chronometer certification process,
“With complicated things like know as MEMS technology. This is created and engineered by Rolex, where
chiming minute repeaters, tourbillons a precise electroforming process the final step in the quality control of
or split-seconds chronographs, a human that allows the company to create every watch is fully automated.”
watchmaker has to adjust all the springs components with reduced friction. One
or the watch would not work,” says example is the 2020 Grand Seiko AND ALL THIS is undoubtedly for the
Barat. “A computer doesn’t know Calibre 9SA5, whose pallet fork and better. Thanks to the increasing efforts
beauty. For instance: what makes a nice escape wheel are made using MEMS, to employ zeros and ones over the past
chime? A human must cut the gong, contributing to the unusually high 35 years, watches have higher quality,
choose the diameter according to the 80-hour power reserve for a high- have longer power reserves, thinner
case of the watch. But let’s be honest: beat movement (36,000vph). movements, more exciting dials and
thanks to the increased precision of have become more user-friendly.
CNC milling machines, the watchmaker Lovers of artisanal hand work might
has less work to do than in the past.” wonder how common computers are in So what does the future hold?
watchmaking. I hate to break it to you, Artificial intelligence, perhaps? Well,
DYNAMIC SIMULATIONS WERE crucial but everybody does it. Of course that it is already here. “At present, AI is
in the component development of the includes the company whose founder mostly enlisted in the fight against fake
2014 Chiming Jump Hour, which is once upon a time gave a mollusc-named watches. The rapid analysis possible
abundant with jumping and rebounding watch to Channel swimmer Mercedes with AI, combined with blockchain
parts. Another example of 3D-design- Gleitze. “Rolex is continually technology, means we can check the
driven development is the 1,366-part developing its technical and scientific authenticity of the watch and its
movement of the 2014 five-chime components,” says Aeschlimann.
Grandmaster Chime; it is five times
smaller than the Star Calibre designed When looking into her crystal ball
with 2D technology back in 2000. towards the future, Forestier-Kasapi
“We do not draw smaller parts in 3D, foresees improved simulations for
but now we can really fill the empty the ageing of materials: “This could
spaces,” explains Barat. be very helpful—maybe one day it will
replace testing.”
For Grand Seiko, the latest computer-
driven development is its micro- Barat imagines new functions. “Soon
electromechanical systems—otherwise we will have the help of AI where it will
be possible to design interactively with
the computer. I don’t know how. Maybe
you will talk to the computer like an
assistant. The computer will not do the
design—but it will provide an even more
efficient process than we have today.” n

From left: Comex hyperbaric unit
tests the water-resistance of Rolex’s

watches; Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Day-Date 40 and Superlative

Certified Green Seal.

AUTUMN 2021 43

Essay / Next Gen Artisanal Watchmakers

Dare to be REXHEP REXHEPI my phone” is an argument cheekily PETERMANN BÉDAT (PORTRAITS, DEAD BEAT SECOND); @ STUDIO HÉRISSON
Rexhepi’s Chronomètre proposed to any collector. If both (CHRONOMÈTRE CONTEMPORAIN); @ MARC GYSIN (REXHEPI WATCH).
DIFFERENT Contemporain won the Grand Prix display the same information, .
d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2018. what’s the difference? A
Eschewing industrialised watch is a watch is a watch?
production lines, these watch- PETERMANN BÉDAT Well, no. Just as painters or
makers are hand-crafting Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann musicians have individual
their way to modernity styles, so do artisanal
and the Dead Beat Second. watchmakers. Sure,
By Michael Tay chronometry is all
important, but what we’re
ONE OF THE most surprising observations in interested in is the how
the esoteric field of artisanal independent and the why. Reinvention
watch collecting is that since 2020 it seems is the name of the game.
to be having its moment, but how much so? No one did this more
spectacularly than George
Well, all one must do is look no further
than recent auction results for the third and Daniels—a watchmaking autodidact.
fourth generation of indie watchmakers; George went against the prevailing wisdom
artisans who emerged in the late 1980s, who that battery-powered watches were the
followed the ground-breaking works of future, and designed and made a watch from
George Daniels and Derek Pratt of the first scratch, taking inspiration from the works of
generation, and second-generation folks Abraham-Louis Breguet. Several decades
such as Philippe Dufour and Daniel Roth. later, the youngish French watchmaker
The secret is well and truly out: watch- François-Paul Journe, inspired by Breguet
makers such as François-Paul Journe, and Daniels, went at it alone and built his
Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen eponymous brand. However, unlike Daniels,
now enjoy celebrity status. who was obsessed with invention, and
Once relegated to obscure online Philippe Dufour, who fetishised polishing,
forums, artisanal
watchmaking has found a Journe struck a balance between the two
new global audience. Then —a mean feat that only a few can pull off.
throw a pandemic into
the mix and just like that, Reinvention is also ripe among the
you’ve got every “watch current generation with the young
idiot savant” holed up Rexhep Rexhepi leading the way. A
at home idling away time
reading, watching and Kosovar-turned-Swiss national who,
lusting after these hand- with his brother as young boys,
built objects. fled the war to start a new life in
Switzerland, 34-year-old Rexhepi is
Part of the appeal for
collectors is that at the end of the one of the hottest young names in
yellow brick road there sits a handful of watchmaking after unveiling the award-
individuals who want nothing more than to winning Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre
be left alone at the watchmaking bench to Contemporain in 2018.
invent and make watches by hand. And I
mean by hand. Take Philippe Dufour as an Another rising star is Petermann Bédat,
example. Nearing completion of a watch, helmed by Gaël Petermann and Florian
Dufour wanders into the Alpine forest in his Bédat, who are based out of Renens,
backyard and sources a particular type of Switzerland. Unusually for Swiss
wood that, when rubbed against metal, adds watchmakers, they opted to cut their teeth at
just that little extra sparkle to the chamfered A. Lange & Söhne before banding together
angles of his dreamily decorated movement.
All this effort is just for a watch that only tells A watch is a watch is a watch?
the time—hours, minutes and seconds. Well, no. Just as PAINTERS OR
MUSICIANS have individual styles,
“If all it does is tell the time, I’ll just use so do artisanal watchmakers.

44 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

to make their own watches. RÉMY COOLS appeared on our radar with his Sphere
Like the greats that came Cools’ Tourbillon Souscription is Moon Phase Pocket Watch. His
before them, Gaël both traditional and contemporary. classically inspired pocket watch
Petermann and Florian sports a lathe-turned dial with
Bédat have spent their fair NORIFUMI SEKI oversized indicators and a hand-
share of time flawlessly Seki’s Sphere Moon Phase blued titanium moon sphere.
restoring vintage clocks and Pocket Watch is made of titanium,
watches, which has obviously while the movement is gilded in Following his win at the F.P.Journe
influenced their style. Young Talent Competition in 2017, Rémy
18kt yellow gold. Cools has wasted no time in gearing up his
“This is the goal we have in workshop. In the tradition of his idols
mind when finishing every detail Breguet and Journe, Cools unveiled his
on our movement by hand, even the inaugural Tourbillon wristwatch available
parts that you will never get to see,” said only through subscription—think of it as the
Petermann and Bédat. “Why? Because we original form of Kickstarter, whereby in
love our jobs as much as our ancestors did.” exchange for putting up the funds to secure a
watch, Cools reinvests in his workshop
Whilst the 2020 edition of the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève—dubbed the to scale-up production and plan for
Oscars of watchmaking—eluded Petermann more complicated future releases.
Bédat, their impressively designed and Cools possesses the skill,
finished Dead Beat Second should be seen foresight and patience
as a future classic. required to map out a career
as an accomplished
LIVING UP TO its mission of unearthing independent watchmaker.
the next best artisans, our last two A noble feat for someone
picks are former winners of the annual who’s only 24 years old.
F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition, These five souls
which The Hour Glass continues to represent the fifth
support: Japanese watchmaker Norifumi generation of
Seki and Frenchman Rémy Cools. contemporary artisanal
Norifumi’s win was welcome news for a watchmakers and who,
nation that has long prized the creations of unbeknownst to them, have the
independent watchmakers; Philippe Dufour weight of their idols and ancestors
enjoys a cult-like following in Japan and
even stars in a manga comic. Inspired by the on their shoulders. Each has at least
success of his fellow countryman, Masahiro another five decades to continue making
Kikuno—the first Japanese watchmaker their mark in the world of artisanal
permitted to join the Académie Horlogère horology and for those who have only
des Créateurs Indépendants—Norifumi started engaging in this hobby, fret not,
there’s a long, long road ahead. n

RÉMY COOLS (PORTRAIT); THE HOUR GLASS (TOURBILLON SOUSCRIPTION); THE FIVE GENERATIONS of Artisanal Watchmaking
COURTESY OF F.P.JOURNE (SEKI); EGUCHI CLOTHING STORE|EGUCHI WATCH
STORE (SPHERE MOON PHASE POCKET WATCH). 1ST GENERATION in expressing a distinct millennium that Vianney avant-garde expression, something new. All
George Daniels, Derek design aesthetic true to Halter and American often injecting contemp- seemingly working
Pratt, Thomas Engel and themselves. designer Jeff Barnes shook orary popular culture from against the notion of an
Richard Daners were the core of contemporary cinema and space into their industrialised production
technically and stylistically 3RD GENERATION watchmaking design and watch designs. line and instead choosing
influenced by Abraham- François-Paul Journe, launched the avant-garde to spend their time at the
Louis Breguet. They laid the Denis Flageollet, Kari movement for watchmaking. 5TH GENERATION bench hand-crafting their
future foundations for Voutilainen and Vianney Rexhep Rexhepi, Gaël creations. If François-Paul
contemporary independent Halter drew inspiration 4TH GENERATION Petermann and Florian Journe and Philippe Dufour
watchmaking. from the first generation Felix Baumgartner, Martin Bédat, Rémy Cools and can be said to have an heir,
by pursuing the path of a Frei, Max Busser and Roger Norifumi Seki all looked at it would most certainly be
2ND GENERATION non-utilitarian horology: Smith (who has inherited the work of the first through Rexhep Rexhepi.
Philippe Dufour, Daniel a horology of art. Members the mantle of lead British to the third generation for
Roth, Michel Parmigiani and of this generation are horologist from Daniels). inspiration. The mindset The Persistence of Memory:
Svend Andersen continued reaching cult-like status 20 His Swiss counterparts have amongst these watchmakers A Survey of Artisanal
to reference the work of years after establishing elevated watchmaking to is to not just execute the Watchmaking 1970-2020
Abraham-Louis Breguet yet their own brands. It was be a form of a micro- highest level of finishing, exhibition is online at
were collectively successful only on the cusp of the mechanical sculptural but also to invent thehourglass.com

AUTUMN 2021 45

Profile /Bremont

Lords of

THE WING

Nick and Giles English mark
20 years with a new factory
and a high-octane partnership

By Nicholas Foulkes

I
I KNOW THE whole “coming home” It is only 20 years biggest thing to happen to British watch
thing is usually associated with soccer, since the brothers manufacturing since then. ALAN SCHALLER (BROTHERS WITH FLAGS, WITH CAR ON FACING PAGE);
but while one British team narrowly founded their watch JIM STEPHENSON (WING INTERIORS); COURTESY OF BREMONT (WATCHES).
missed sporting glory during the brand: barely the Their pride is understandable as it is
summer, the spring saw another, less blink of an eye in only 20 years since they founded their
well-known British team, bring watch brand: an aeon in terms of, say,
something home. MECHANICAL tech start-ups, but barely the blink of
an eye in mechanical watchmaking.
I am talking about Bremont, the watchmaking. I recall meeting them back in the very
watch brand founded by brothers Nick early Noughties when what they lacked
and Giles English (by name and nature), the second is the British branding
who earlier this year opened an actual of watches assembled elsewhere. Clockwise from top: Nick and Giles English
watch factory—and I mean a proper flying the Union Jack and Bremont flags; The
20 million quidsworth of factory, The historical zenith of British Wing boutique and reception; event space;
featuring the latest generation watchmaking was during the 17th
design and manufacturing Bremont Solo Lady K White.
technology in a 35,000sqft, and 18th centuries when Robert
purpose-built facility in the Hooke developed a watch with
Thames Valley, where some
130 staff go about the business a balance spring and John
of making watches. Harrison devoted his life to
mastering the marine
“The Wing” is the sort chronometer.
of thing that would be of But even as recently
note even in Switzer- as the 1970s, Smiths was
land, but for the Henley still manufacturing watches
hinterlands it is little
short of miraculous. Until in large numbers in the U.K.
now, British mechanical —Nick and Giles English will
watchmaking has fallen into happily tell you that the Bremont
two categories: the first is elite factory with its capacity to make
bespoke craftsmanship of the 50,000 watches a year is the
sort practised by Roger W. Smith,

46 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

in experience they the first Kingsman movie); and partner- Left: Bremont Super Marine Chrono Blue
more than compen- ships with British heritage brands Bracelet. Below: Bremont Hawking White Gold.
(including Jaguar and E.J. Churchill
sated for with gunsmiths); they have now reached perfect British selfie. They even
enthusiasm. When the position of being able to posed for photographs on the
manufacture high-end roof of their new factory
I asked what mechanical timepieces in waving both the Bremont
qualified them substantial quantities in and the Union flags. And
to embark on the Thames Valley as on the day I visited the
launching a opposed to the Vallée de factory in March, there
watch brand, Joux in Switzerland. were enough E-Type
I remember Jaguars parked
Nick proudly The English brothers outside to film
telling me, are far from shy when it several remakes of
comes to what I The Italian Job.
“We helped our suppose is called But as well as invoking
father build aero- “patriot marketing”; almost the full might of
planes, and we made there is a red telephone tourist brochure Britain
our first brass clock booth outside the front of (bowler hats and double
when we were 12 years the factory to enable decker buses were not present
old.” Since then, the overseas visitors to take the when I dropped by the factory),
gradient on the learning curve has been the English brothers are also
steep and from time to time over the As well as invoking
years, they have confided that had they the full might of leveraging future Britain. In 2021,
been aware of how challenging it would tourist brochure their 20th anniversary year, Bremont
be, they might never have started. became the official timing partner
But after almost two decades of Britain, the of Williams Racing for the new
aviation-inspired watches (they are Englishes are also Formula One Season.
keen pilots as was their late father);
watches with bits of famous British LEVERAGING Tellingly, the communiqué issued
things in them (think wood from HMS when this partnership was announced
Victory); patriotic product placement future Britain. spoke of collaboration “on a deeper
(Bremont was the supplier of watches to technical level” between “two British

Below, from left: Nick and Giles at The Wing; engineering
Bremont HMS Victory Stainless Steel; the back of businesses” and
the Bremont HMS Victory Stainless Steel.
“knowledge
sharing focused
around their
respective
Computer
Numerical
Control

machining
capabilities”. Make
no mistake, this is
about the future and when they talk
about “the start of a new era for
British watchmaking”, they are
hoping that others will follow
their example and invest in
U.K.-based manufacturing.
And while we are at it,
Bremont discourages the use
of the somewhat dated term
“factory” and prefers instead to
describe The Wing as its “new
state-of-the-art Manufacturing and
Technology Centre”. n

AUTUMN 2021 47

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR

JUST AS THE WORLD KEEPS CHANGING, TIMEPIECES
ADAPT TO OUR DIFFERENT DESIRES. ON TIME'S

HALLOWED WRITERS SELECT THEIR STAR ATTRACTIONS

Cocktail hour concentric circles traced in diamonds
REGALIA and sugar-loaf-cut sapphires, heightened
by red tourmaline cabochons dotted
By V I V I E N N E BE C K E R with diamond centres.

IN TUNE WITH today’s zeitgeist of identity SIGNATURE Piaget’s style signature is the cuff
fluidity, the flow of creativity between watch, pioneered as a bold fashion
watches, gems and jewels has brought STYLE statement in the 1960s, and reimagined
a blending of genres. This fusion of From top: now in the Extraordinary Lights high
magnificence and mechanics delivers Girard-Perregaux jewellery collection. The dynamic dia-
a host of high jewellery timepieces that Cat’s Eye; Jaeger- mond lines of the dramatic Voluptuous
offer the perfect complement to evening LeCoultre Reverso Borealis cuff watch are interspersed
gowns and jewels, and, conceptually, One Cordonnet; with trails of calibré-cut emeralds,
honour the role of time in shaping the Carnet White with vibrant colour streaking through
gemstones that adorn these creations. Diamond Woven diamond light. While ruby drops fringe
Vintage; Bulgari the interlaced diamond swirls of the
Cartier time-travels through its new Magnifica Celestial Blazing Night cuff, dripping after-dark
Sixième Sens high jewellery collection, Sky; Hublot Big passion into moonlight.
which reinvigorates the maison’s iconic Bang Integral
1920s Tutti Frutti style for its exuberant Tourbillon. Couture houses continue to add
watches. Tiny clusters of small, lively fashion and femininity to their designs.
coloured stones carved as leaves and At Dior, Victoire de Castellane reprises
berries wind their way around diamond M. Dior’s favourite flower in the natural-
bracelets, while the Indian influence istic Rose Mantique Secret watch, part of
is amplified on one model by two larger the Dior Rose high jewellery collection.
emeralds, carved in Mughal style, A perfect rose pink sapphire nestles
flanking the diamond-set dial. among diamond and pink sapphire
petals on a white gold bangle sculpted
The use of luscious coloured gems as a woody stem.
is a Bulgari style signature, and much
in evidence in the Secret watches, part Louis Vuitton’s LV flower logo is
of this year’s Magnifica collection. traced in diamonds and mother-of-
The Celestial Sky model takes Rome’s pearl on the dial of the intricate and
sapphire-hued sky as inspiration: the one-of-a-kind Dentelle de Monogram
swivelling gem-smothered dial cover is watch, enmeshed on a wide supple, silky
embedded with a six-carat Sri Lankan bracelet, rippling with diamonds.
sapphire, while the roundness of the
Colosseum is captured in curves and Meanwhile, Chanel celebrates N05,
the world’s most famous perfume, with a
watch paved with yellow sapphires, and
chicly embellished with the component

48 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

flowers and drop-shaped diamond on a Duetto case. Audemars Piguet’s latest
multi-strand pearl bracelet that converts high jewellery iteration is the mighty
into a sautoir. Royal Oak in pink gold and regal
amethysts to match the purple dial,
Transformability is a growing trend and Girard-Perregaux has added a high
in high jewellery, and very much in jewellery model to its distinctive Cat’s
tune with the concept of fluidity as Eye collection, building a dynamic
evidenced by Harry Winston’s striking optical illusion through showers of
Ultimate Emerald Signature Secret baguette diamonds on an aventurine
watch in diamonds and dreamy night sky.
Paraiba tourmalines. Paying homage to
Winston’s favoured emerald cut, and Finally, Hublot brings gender
to Art Deco style of the 1930s when the fluidit y to haute horlogerie with
company was founded, the watch can be its Big Bang Integral Tourbillon,
worn on a colour-coordinated silk strap, loading the spectacular architecture
or as a pendant or brooch. and seamlessly integrated case and
strap with scintillating diamonds.
There’s a retro hint too in Graff’s It’s a theatrical expression of former
latest high jewellery Cocktail Hour C.E.O. Jean-Claude Biver’s inspired
watch that delivers an emotional Art of Fusion concept—the melding
charge: 380 rare, perfectly matched, of distinctive influences—as Hublot
candy-pink diamonds, totalling 15.98 matches its watchmaking mastery
carats set with supreme lightness, with mesmerising glamour, the perfect
flooding the petite, classically styled marriage of man’s ingenuity with
timepiece with intense colour and light. nature’s wonders. n

Equally spectacular are Michelle ARTFUL ACCENTS
Ong’s creations. As the Hong Kong- From top: Dior Rose Mantique; Piaget
based designer behind Carnet, she Voluptuous Borealis; Harry Winston Ultimate
creates fantastical, glamorous watches Emerald Signature Secret; Chanel N°5.
to match or coordinate with her jewels Below, from left: Audemars Piguet Royal
for evening wear. Her Woven Vintage Oak Selfwinding Chronograph; Graff
all-diamond watch oozes Carnet flair, Cocktail Hour; Louis Vuitton Dentelle
with its undulating, sensual silhouette, de Monogram.

THIS FUSION OF MAGNIFICENCE AND MECHANICS
DELIVERS A HOST OF HIGH JEWELLERY TIMEPIECES

THAT OFFER THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO
EVENING GOWNS AND JEWELS.

and superlative diamond setting. The
cloud-like shapes and the textural
touch, like silk or satin, hint at one of
her favourite themes of translating
vintage fabrics into gems and jewels.

The spirit of creative co-mingling
has also lit a spark at Jaeger-LeCoultre,
with its Reverso One Cordonnet re-
imagining the black silk cord strap (the
little black dress of watch bracelets)
of an original 1933 model as a supple,
woven braid of gold and diamonds, and

AUTUMN 2021 49

Complications Calendar, offered in stainless steel or
DU JOUR 18kt pink gold. Contrasting hues and
a mix of surface textures render the
By K E N K E S S L E R dial a constant source of fascination,
adding a further sensation of depth
IT’S ONE THING for half a dozen brands FACE VALUE to a face comprised of four subdials to
to turn up at the same watch fair From top: A. Lange indicate week, day, date, astronomical
with green dials or biodegradable & Söhne Lange 1 moon, month, leap year, hours and
straps, but perpetual calendars? Perpetual; Bulgari minutes. Also an automatic, it measures
Straps and dials are relatively easy- Octo Finissimo a satisfying 41mm in diameter and a
to-execute fashion manoeuvres. Not Perpetual Calendar; chunky 9.5mm thick, befitting the
so a consensus on introducing one of Vacheron original sport dress watch.
the most complex, work-intensive and Constantin
costly of complications. This year’s Overseas; A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 Perpetual
plethora of perpetual calendars has to Audemars Piguet eschews the look of a host of subdials,
be coincidental because they require Royal Oak while retaining the signature asymmetry
many man-hours to develop, while their Perpetual of the original. A modern classic that
construction is rivalled only by that of Calendar; Patek recently passed its first quarter-century,
minute repeaters. Philippe In-Line the Lange 1 is instantly recognisable
Perpetual Calendar for its “big date” and off-centre hours-
In the Spring issue of V. F. On Time, Ref. 5236P. and-minutes display. Even with the
Tracey Llewellyn reported on perpetual addition of retrograde day-of-the-week
calendars from IWC and Chopard, and month display around the dial’s
while Nick Foulkes wrote a case study periphery, the look remains uncluttered.
on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mind-boggling Available in rose or white gold, the Lange
Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 1 Perpetual is as subtle as a perpetual
Quadriptyque. In their wake, a further calendar can be.
quintet explores ultra-thinness, new
colour schemes, the addition of a If, however, absolute clarity is the
perpetual calendar to a familiar classic virtue you value most, then Patek
and one which establishes an entirely Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar
new means of display. 5236P is the champ. Attaining a new
level of technical achievement and a
Unsurprisingly, Bulgari pursued look bordering on the minimalist, the
the slimming muse, earning another company has devised the first ever
world record with the Octo Finissimo display of day, date and month in a
Perpetual Calendar, which is 40mm single row in a wristwatch. It required
in diameter and a mere 5.8mm thick the patented development of pairs of
—remarkable for an automatic move- concentric rings, which line up to provide
ment of 408 components. Offered in the information in a row as would be read
platinum with a blue lacquered dial and on a printed page. Even with moon-
in titanium with a grey dial, both look phase, night-and-day indication and
fresh and modern thanks to retrograde leap-year display, its mien is barely
displays for the date and leap years. more involved than that of any time-
only wristwatch.
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas is
one of the great luxury sport watches, And if this watch doesn’t sweep this
a style usually needing to show just the year’s awards, then the industry needs
time and date. The Perpetual Calendar new judging panels. n
Ultra-Thin invests this 41mm automatic
with a classic four subdial layout for all
of its displays, with white gold details
against blue lacquer, while the white
gold case is only 8.1mm thick—not as
slim as Bulgari’s, but still impressive for
a watch so rugged.

Blue also features on Audemars
Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Perpetual

50 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

Flourishes of LICENCED FOR SKILL
ARTISTRY Clockwise from top: Bovet 1822 Rolls-Royce
Boat Tail; Hermès Slim d'Hermès La Source de
By T R AC EY L L EW E L LY N Pégase; Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier
Peony; Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Great
MÉTIERS D'ART, TRANSLATING as “artistic Explorers; Patek Philippe 25015M Geneva table
trades”, became a horological buzz- clock; Grand Seiko Micro Artist Studio “A Sky Full
phrase in the second decade of the of Stars"; Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Danse Duo;
21st century thanks to the efforts of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel
Switzerland’s top watch houses. A Hokusai Kirifuri Waterfall.
group of age-old art forms, many of
these “trades” would have become repeated firings in kilns at over 800°C,
extinct without the foresight and is a speciality of Geneva and one skill-
protection of a handful of brands that, fully demonstrated by several houses.
during the industry’s quartz hiccup Chopard’s L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier
in the 1970s, showed a determination Peony continues a series that began
to conserve them. in 2014 with a dial dedicated to the
flower that symbolises prosperity, love
Reserved for the finest of timepieces, and honour. Vacheron Constantin,
the métiers cover skills including
enamelling, engraving, stone-setting,
marquetry, embroidery and feather
work. By their hand-made nature, the
pieces are unique, take many hours to
complete and are, unsurprisingly, rare.

A long-standing champion of métiers
d’art, Patek Philippe’s C.E.O. Thierry
Stern has said that the new PP6 man-
ufacturing facility was deliberately
built with “room for our Rare Hand-
crafts department, and to teach new,
young artisans”. Among the small
number of timepieces the division cre-
ates each year are enamelled master-
pieces like the 25015M Geneva table
clock, featuring a graphic interpretation
of Patek’s home city, created through
techniques including cloisonné (where
miniscule metal wires form shapes
that are flooded with enamel) and
flinqué (hand engraving covered with
translucent enamel).

Grand Feu, where miniature enam-
el paintings are created through

GRAND FEU, WHERE MINIATURE ENAMEL PAINTINGS
ARE CREATED THROUGH REPEATED FIRINGS IN KILNS

AT OVER 800ºC , IS A SPECIALITY OF GENEVA.

AUTUMN 2021 51

meanwhile, has taken inspiration from It’s time for Following on from three limited
an ancient maritime atlas for its Trib- ACTION edition anniversary models launched
ute to Great Explorers trio, with dials to celebrate the company’s founding
dedicated to maritime pioneers. By BI L L PR I N C E 140 years ago, Seiko has delivered a 35th
anniversary version of its celebrated
The swivelling caseback of Jaeger- AFTER RECENT TIMES like no other, with quartz Prospex Quartz Divers model,
LeCoultre’sReversohasalwaysprovided most sporting events constrained, you expressly designed for saturation diving.
a canvas for intricate engraving or might think the market for sports Similarly protected to 1,000 metres
enamelling. To celebrate its 90th anni- watches would have suffered. Apparently (thanks to the helium release valve), the
versary, an amazing array of métiers not, judging from the slew of new original’s impressive 49.4mm titanium
d’art Reversos has been released, from launches, as the appetite for something case with shock-absorbing ceramic outer
the exquisite high jewellery Precious more substantial than the conventional shell comes fitted with an era-correct
Flowers in April, to a more recent mod- dress watch seems as strong as ever. accordion strap and upgraded features
el showcasing a miniature enamel of include a yellow winding stem to prevent
Katsushika Hokusai’s 19th-century Bulking up whilst slimming down inadvertent submersion whilst the
woodblock print of Kirifuri Waterfall. has been at the heart of Breitling’s crown is deployed.
business model of late, adding squads
While JLC has delivered a Euro- of ambassadors to its endorsement Artfully combining ergonomics with
pean interpretation of Japanese art, programme whilst focusing on its core muscular elegance is Audemars Piguet’s
Grand Seiko has taken a more literal collections. Since 2019, it has partnered subtle refresh of its Royal Oak Offshore
route, demonstrating that the category with Ironman, the triathletic enterprise line, now offered in a slightly reduced
of métiers d’art is not exclusively that’s grown into the world’s largest case size of 43mm and available in
Swiss with its Micro Artist Studio “A operator of mass participation sports. stainless steel, pink gold and titanium.
Sky Full of Stars” that showcases the Both parties have designed the new Upholding the distinctive yet sporty
unique crafts of Japan. The deep-blue Endurance Pro Ironman collection: DNA are the subtly reshaped ceramic
speckled face represents the star- encased in its proprietary Breitlight bezel and crown and pusher sets,
spangled skies above the mountain material is Breitling’s COSC-certified sharper black, grey, taupe or blue “Grand
village of Achi, and is created through SuperQuartz movement, which prom- Tapisserie” dials, larger hands and the
hand-stamping, plating and painting. ises ultra-accurate precision and a
The dynamism of the dial is further marathon battery life of up to four years. WORLD OF SPORT
reflected in the abstract engraving of First out of the blocks comes a vibrant Clockwise from right: Panerai
the mirror-finish, Zaratsu-polished, red and black version complemented Submersible Blue Notte 42mm;
platinum case. by a red rubber strap, but diehards will Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra;
want the exclusive black and gold edition TAG Heuer 43mm DLC;
Marquetry, involving slivers of ve- available only to Ironman race finishers. Bremont Savanna.
neer applied to a dial to create a design,
has also had a revival over recent years. Not that strength necessarily requires
Everything from wood, shell and hard- heft: noted for its strong links with the
stone—beautifully represented by Van aviation world, British watchmaker
Cleef & Arpels in its Broadway-inspired Bremont crowns a decade or more’s
Lady Danse and Lady Danse Duo—to collaboration with the global leader in
the less traditional leather, petals and ejector-seat systems, Martin Baker, to
feathers, has been used to create min- produce its first MB model in titanium,
iature marvels. One of 2021’s more further lightened by a newly skeletonised
unusual materials, straw has been used rotor. Dubbed the Savanna for its sand
in combination with enamel to produce coloured finish, the 42mm case features
Pegasus’ wings on the Hermès Slim the same knurled effect to be found
d'Hermès La Source de Pégase. on the company’s ejector seats, as well as
an anti-reflective satin-finish, furthering
But, perhaps this year’s greatest ex- its military-inspired credentials.
amples of métiers d’art have been the
pair of bespoke his and hers watches Linde Werdelin takes weight-shifting
made by Bovet 1822 for the owners to the extreme in its Spidolite line
of the new Rolls-Royce Boat Tail (ru- of alpine-inspired watches. The latest
moured to be Jay-Z and Beyoncé). limited edition Nord features a 19-part
Between them, the pieces, which can skeletonised sand-blasted titanium case
be worn on the wrist or inserted into and a two-part skeletonised black/blue
the car’s dashboard, incorporate wood fumé dial inspired by the North Sea.
marquetry, hand engraving, miniature
sculpture and hand painting. n

52 VA N I T Y F A I R O N T I M E

reattribution of its three counters to feu enamel dial gracing the Torpilleur
accommodate the fully integrated in- Tourbillon Enamel, together with the
house chronograph Calibre 4401, which latest silicium escapements.
is fitted with a flyback function.
Omega’s latest collection of Sea-
The new bracelet on Panerai’s master Aqua Terra models are no less
Submersible Blue Notte 42mm mim- emblematic. Two case sizes (38mm and
ics the characteristic crown protector 41mm) feature a small seconds func-
that did so much to define the military- tion at six o’clock driven by one of four
inspired brand. Each link features a Co-Axial Master Chronometer rated
similar half-moon device, highlight- calibres. In addition to stainless steel
ed by a combination of brushed and and steel and 18kt Sedna Gold versions,
polished finishes. And for those who a further six models are offered as 18kt
do wish to swap out their band, the Sedna Gold “luxury” pieces denoted by
watch is supplied with a black Sportech gold-plated rotors and balance wheels
strap along with a tool with which to and—in addition to a diamond-set ex-
make the change over. ample—a wide choice of dial materials,
finishes, bracelets and straps.
A similar choice awaits the owner of
Tudor’s new Boutique Edition Black Bay TAG Heuer has created a fresh edition
Fifty-Eight Bronze. A heritage model that of its celebrated glow-in-the-dark
deepens its tie with the sub-aquatic Night Diver—a non-limited addition
fraternity by using the corrosion-free to the new Aquaracer Professional 300
alloy favoured by early hard-hat divers series that sits alongside its previous,

JUDGING FROM THE SLEW OF NEW
LAUNCHES, THE APPETITE FOR SOMETHING MORE

SUBSTANTIAL THAN THE CONVENTIONAL DRESS
WATCH SEEMS AS STRONG AS EVER.

in its 39mm case and bracelet, the latter limited edition hero piece recognising
is a first for Tudor and, in common with the original 1978 Aquaracer Ref. 844.
the case, comes satin-brushed to achieve The new 43mm DLC matt black model
an even patina over time. Nevertheless, features a luminescent green dial,
Tudor has again turned to its supplier of against which blue lumed minute and
fabric straps, Julien Faure, to produce central seconds hands stand in ethereal
the complementary recreation of an contrast to the green hour hand and
archive example (fashioned from hour markers.
elastic recovered from a French rescue
parachute) that echoes the attractive Finally, back on dry land, Porsche
brown-bronze hue of its domed dial. Design has created an all-black version
of its 42mm titanium-cased 1919
Historical reaffirmation is rarely a Globetimer UTC. The COSC-certified
bad thing in watchmaking, as noted by GMT model has a titanium-carbide
Ulysse Nardin, which releases seven coating to match the black leather straps
new models in its recently launched made of Porsche automotive leather. n
Marine Torpilleur collection. Each of
the limited editions honours the long CRUNCH TIME
line of marine chronometers its founder Clockwise from top: Ulysse Nardin Marine
produced in the 19th century, bearing a Torpilleur Moonphase; Linde Werdelin Spidolite
similar deportment to its ancestors and Nord; Tudor Boutique Edition Black Bay Fifty-Eight
showcasing skills such as the black grand Bronze; Seiko Prospex Quartz Divers; Audemars
Piguet Royal Oak Offshore; Porsche Design
Globetimer UTC; Breitling Ironman.

AUTUMN 2021 53

54 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

Humanity has always A BRIEF
been drawn to gazing into
the collective crystal ball, HISTORY OF THE FUTURE

foreseeing both
the eerily prescient and

the amusingly short-
sighted, from a 1957
rejection of space travel to
a 2015 prediction of
a rapidly spreading

airborne virus. As
technology and our
conception of time evolve,

JONATHAN MARGOLIS

asks: Is the future what it
used to be?

Illustration by

SELMAN HOSGÖR

There’s a small problem with It’s funnier, of course, when we get the future wrong, like
Nostradamus unfailingly did. Or like Britain’s Astronomer
my new MacBook. I call the Royal Sir Harold Spencer Jones when he reputedly dismissed
the idea of space flight as “bunk” in 1957—a timely fortnight
T Apple technical helpline and am before the Soviet Union launched Sputnik 1.
soon speaking with a polite and
efficient young man who sorts My favourite misleading future dream has been going for 70
it out in minutes. I’m curious years now—the flying car. Flying cars seem to me an archetypal
to know where he’s talking to case of the geek’s tenuous grasp of reality: a technology that’s
achievable, but childlike and devoid of common sense. It’s
me from. Earlier that day, I had unlikely that any country will allow them, or that more than
a few daredevils will ever risk getting in one. Yet 70 companies
called a courier company about worldwide, from Boeing to Embraer and Airbus, are working
on flying cars and investing hundreds of millions in the idea.
a package I sent from one side
Musk, in a more grounded mode than his “we’re all computer
of London to the other, and game characters”, got the concept spot-on when he said: “Let’s
just say that if something’s flying over your head, a whole bunch
the helpful customer service woman on the phone was in of flying cars going all over the place, that is not an anxiety-
reducing situation.” The guy more capable than almost anyone,
Guatemala, which seemed a little counterintuitive. then, of making a viable flying car sees the whole notion as
a gigantic cul-de-sac in the sky.
“We’re in Tirana, Albania,” the Apple guy says. We end
So what significant advances (or disasters) have serious
up talking about Albania, which I visited in 1985 when it was future gazers foreseen? It could be said, of course, that every
entrepreneur who has invented a need for something and
a communist state as isolated as North Korea is today. There fulfilled it—from Henry Ford to Steve Jobs to the guy with a well-
situated coffee shop—is a futurologist. So is every investor and
were no cars and a window display in the biggest department every punter at the races. But what about the people who have
seen into the future by analysing data and prognosticating on
store featured a rusty Chinese toaster surrounded by dead flies. it, or by unusually informed and inspired guesswork?

It sometimes helps to be of a certain age to see the big picture Well, this example isn’t bad (at least for 1661) from the
philosopher Joseph Glanvill, a Fellow of The Royal Society,
and, from that, to try to imagine what the world might be like in one of the first scientific societies in Europe, and chaplain to
Charles II. “To them that come after us,” Glanvill wrote, “it
the future. But even the wisest, most experienced futurologist may be as ordinary to buy a pair of wings to fly into remotest
regions, as now a pair of boots to ride a journey; and to confer at
would have been sticking their neck out in 1985 to say that by the distance of the Indies [...] may be as usual to future times, as
to us in a literary correspondence [...] It may be that, some ages
the 2020s, Apple, then not much more than a scrappy Palo Alto hence, a voyage to the Southern tracts, yea possibly to the Moon,
will not be more strange than one to America.”
start-up, would be the most successful company in the world,
Then there was Jules Verne, the 19th-century stockbroker
that it would manufacture in what we then called Red China— and future gazer, obsessed with machinery and mechanical
contrivances. In a story about the year 2000, he went out on a
a primitive, impenetrable outpost—and that it would have a limb to predict how musical recitals would be sent down
a wire from the artist to pianos around the world. It remained a
slick satellite operation in Albania. little fanciful until this year, when Steinway & Sons introduced

Some argue, though not with any great conviction, that Elon Musk

the future has already happened in some parallel universe, so suggested that

future prediction is no big deal. If you believe this, then Apple we live in a

always existed, and they always had an office in Albania. COMPUTER

Theoretical physicists have blackboards full of equations to S I M U L AT I O N

argue for that kind of thing, and its concomitant—that time on some celestial

travel was, is, and will be possible. teenager’s video

The late Professor Stephen Hawking, however, would GAME CONSOLE.

have none of it. He confirmed that, as we have long known,

it is impossible to travel faster than light, which would be

a precondition of time travel. But most tellingly, Hawking

said: “If time travel is possible, where are the tourists from the

future?” It takes a genius—or a child—to point out something so

clear and obvious.

A more recent argument that the future is no mystery was

voiced by Elon Musk, when he suggested—possibly after a

couple of spliffs—that we live in a computer simulation on

some celestial teenager’s video game console. So just as all the

potential scenarios in Fortnite are programmed into the game,

this argument goes (and Musk isn’t the only one advancing it),

all possible permutations for life on Earth are baked into the

code and thus predestined.

It’s the stuff of an entertaining pub conversation, but the

smart betting by some distance is that the boring, conservative

explanation of time just ticking relentlessly, playing out blindly

millisecond by millisecond without direction or destination, is

the right one. The future is not “murder”, as the Leonard Cohen

song put it; it doesn’t exist, and is therefore unknowable.

Yet future gazers who think really hard and clearly, who

examine both the past and the present, who think round corners

and hold onto their hats, do have a modest but creditable record

in defying the restrictions of time and predicting if not “the

future”, then significant elements of it.

56 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

P I C T U R E LU X / T H E H O L LY W O O D A RC H I V E / A L A M Y S TO C K P H OTO ( O RW E L L ) ; S TO C K T R E K I M AG E S , I N C . / A L A M Y S TO C K P H OTO ( V E R N E ) ; H A I Y I N WA N G / A L A M Y S TO C K P H OTO ( F LY I N G C A R S ) ; H A I Y I N WA N G / A L A M Y S TO C K P H OTO ; N A S A / H O / A F P V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S ( S AT U R N ) ; L E BA Z E L E / G E T T Y I M AG E S ( C LO C K ) ; “We are in the run-up to 1900. The economist John Maynard Keynes
JONNY GAWLER/T3 MAGAZINE/FUTURE VIA GETTY IMAGES (COMPUTER); BETTMANN/GETTY IMAGES (SPUTNIK I); DAN KITWOOD/GETTY IMAGES (METEOR); INGA KJER/PHOTOTHEK VIA GETTY IMAGES (GATES); YICHUAN CAO/NURPHOTO VIA GETTY IMAGES (MUSK); HULTON-DEUTSCH COLLECTION/CORBIS/ envisaged it whilst still a Cambridge student: “The inhabitant
CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES (WELLS); BETTMANN/GETTY IMAGES (FORD); PHOTO12/UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP VIA GETTY IMAGES (NOSTRADAMUS); SANTI VISALLI/GETTY IMAGES (HAWKING); JUSTIN SULLIVAN/GETTY IMAGES (JOBS). condemned to of London could order by telephone, sipping his morning tea
in bed, the various products of the whole earth and reasonably
navigate the expect their early delivery upon his doorstep.”

S PAC E - AG E Future gazing wouldn’t be complete without a healthy dollop
of dystopian thinking, and no one did miserabilism as well as
world with George Orwell. The 1984 he predicted in 1948 turned out to be
more an age of crashing Windows computers than infallible,
S T O N E - AG E inescapable surveillance, but by 2021, China’s developing social
credit system was looking passably Orwellian.
minds.”
China has lately been using big data, machine learning
a way for self-playing online grand pianos to reproduce entire and facial recognition technology linked to an estimated 200
concerts played note-for-note by absent virtuoso pianists. The million surveillance cameras, as well as monitoring internet
Steinway Spirio R even makes it possible to sit in your apartment usage and the credit and debit card systems, to control its 1.4bn
in Hong Kong or Sydney being played ghostly “live” concerts citizens, all of whom now have their own “dependability”
by long-dead pianists such as Horowitz and Rubinstein, every score. If you are good by the Party’s standards, you can access
key press reproducing exactly as it was when originally played. advantages like queue-jumping at hospitals, cheaper loans and
foreign travel privileges. If you’re not so good, even in ways that
At the same time as Verne, in the late Victorian age in Britain, aren’t strictly illegal—too much online gaming, jaywalking,
American newspaper columnist David Goodman Croly, known smoking in public in non-designated areas, not repaying loans
as Sir Oracle, writing about life in 2000, predicted: “Women promptly or not caring adequately for your grandmother—you
throughout the world will enjoy increased opportunities and might find yourself blocked from promotion or stopped from
privileges. Along with this new freedom will come social boarding planes and trains. Some 23 million people were thus
tolerance of sexual conduct formerly condoned only in men. sanctioned in the first year of this system.
In addition, because of the greater availability of jobs, more
women will choose not to have children.” In the modern era, with ever-improving technology and
methodology, the well-informed have an even better chance of
Croly wasn’t bad on tech matters, either. “Navigation of the a successful stab at the unknowable. In a March 2015 Ted Talk,
air will be the most momentous event in history,” he wrote. “It Bill Gates beat the constraints of time by nearly five years and,
will do away with all uncharted regions on the earth and it will even though he was roundly ignored for his trouble, will always
enable people to be highly mobile, spending summers in one be known as a seer.
place and winters in another.”
“Let’s look at a model of a virus spread through the air, like
At the same time in Russia, a rocket scientist, Konstantin the Spanish Flu back in 1918.” Gates said. “So here’s what would
Tsiolkovsky, was predicting many features of space travel, happen: it would spread throughout the world very, very quickly.
from spacesuits to liquid oxygen and orbiting space stations, And you can see over 30 million people died from that epidemic.
while Britain’s Jules Verne equivalent, H.G. Wells, was So this is a serious problem. We should be concerned.
prophesying tanks, bombers, intercontinental missiles, atomic
bombs—and microwave ovens. “But in fact, we can build a really good response system. We
have the benefits of all the science and technology that we talk
John Elfreth Watkins, another American writer and engineer about here. We’ve got cellphones to get information from the
trying to envision life in 2000, interviewed “the wisest and public and get information out to them. We have satellite maps
most careful men in our greatest institutions of science where we can see where people are and where they’re moving.
and learning” for The Ladies’ Home Journal. Watkins reported We have advances in biology that should dramatically change
that we would see air-conditioning, international telephones, the turnaround time to look at a pathogen and be able to make
colour photography, ready-cooked meals, medicine taken by drugs and vaccines that are a fit for that pathogen. So we can
skin patches, snowmobiles and the tapping of energy from have tools, but those tools need to be put into an overall global
wind, tides and sunlight. Another remarkable prediction health system. And we need preparedness.”
from Watkins’ wise men: “Persons and things of all kinds
will be brought within focus of cameras connected electrically It was perhaps inevitable that when Gates’ prediction came
with screens at opposite ends of circuits, thousands of miles true, but his call for readiness was ignored, accusations of
at a span.” something akin to witchcraft were made by the dim-witted and
the malevolent. The vaccines Gates referred to came about,
The London Daily Mail, thinking about the same looming but the witch-burners would say they contained tracking
2000 date in the newspaper’s December 31 1900 edition, microchips to serve his commercial purposes.
forecast electricity revolutionising transport and home and
industrial heating, and even powering trivial implements Yet if someone had thought about it, such malicious silliness
like curling tongs and cigar lighters. The new wireless system as the implausible demonising of Bill Gates for predicting
being demonstrated by Marconi was to be taken seriously, Covid-19 could probably have been predicted.
the newspaper argued. And there would also be a Channel
Tunnel, which would start a process of effectively shrinking the As the neurologist, financial theorist, and historian William
world. Remarkably enough, even e-commerce was foreseen J. Bernstein (The Delusions of Crowds) has famously said, “We
are condemned to navigate the space-age world with stone-
age minds.” That biological restriction alone may turn out to
hamper our future attempts to predict the future. n

AUTUMN 2021 57

LET THE PLACING A PASTEL-COLOURED Breitling Superocean Heritage © NINTENDO (SUPER MARIO); © CAPCOM U.S.A., INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (STREET FIGHTER V AND SEIKO
on a washed-out piece of driftwood next to striped fabric, COLLABORATION, BLANKA WATCH); GOGALLOP STUDIOS/FEI (LONGINES FEI JUMPING NATIONS CUP GAME);
GAMES it looks (if you squint) much like the sort of still-life shoot you COURTESY OF GUCCI (FNATIC X GUCCI DIVE WATCH; MARTIN LARSSON FROM TEAM FNATIC).
see in glossy magazines. When the “shoot” is finished, words
BEGIN scroll across the screen: “Congratulations! Level up!”

Watchmakers are no strangers to a good collaboration, This is Drest, a video game in which you play a clearly well-
so it makes perfect sense for them to power-up and connected stylist, who is at one moment cramming Russian
embrace the £147 billion gaming industry model Irina Shayk into a Molly Goddard gown, and the next
carefully arranging Breitling watches under a palm tree,
By ROB WAUGH harvesting points and plaudits (and possibly even winning a real-
life Breitling watch).

It’s just one example of how luxury watch brands are tuning
into the multi-billion-dollar world of video games. In this
autumn’s upcoming shoot-’em-up Far Cry 6, a violent fantasy of
revolution in a country ruled by a dictator, the protagonist Dani
Rojas dons a Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic watch
in between machine-gunning fascist stooges and proclaiming,
“Viva libertad!” Much like product placement in films, it’s a new
way for watch brands to show off their latest and greatest.

Brands including TAG Heuer, Citizen and Seiko have created
watches based on today’s top online games from Super Mario
World to Final Fantasy XIV, with bezels festooned in power-ups
and hands in the shape of magical crystals. Gucci created
a watch with top “esports” brand Fnatic (professional online

58 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

gamers who play for money) with a double-G logo meant not SHOW TIME
only to represent Guccio Gucci, but the gaming slogan “Good
Game”, exchanged between rival players after matches. Above: the Drest app,
displaying the Breitling
W HEN IT COMES to capturing consumer eyeballs, Chronomat Automatic
little can match the sheer power of gaming. In 2020,
there were 80 billion downloads of mobile games— 36 South Sea watch.
with users spending on average 4.2 hours per day playing Left: Longines’ FEI
per person, according to monitoring service AppAnnie— Jumping Nations Cup
and research firm IDC valued the worldwide gaming market show-jumping game.
to be a whopping £147 billion.
“There has been a seismic shift
For watch brands looking to engage with consumers, games in how luxury brands engage
such as Drest are simply unbeatable, says Tim Sayler, chief with consumers. We are in a new
marketing officer of Breitling. age of fashion and luxury.”

“There is no better introduction to Breitling on any digital brands are looking for, not just luxury ones. The example
platform I know of,” he says. “I mean, normally, I’m happy if of Drest and Strava shows that this can be absolutely relevant
I get a few seconds of people’s attention. But in Drest, they spend for luxury brands as well.”
an average of seven to 10 minutes playing with our watches.” Drest was founded by former British magazine editor
Lucy Yeomans, who was previously editor-in-chief
“We were inspired by the creativity behind Drest,” agrees of fashion website Net-a-Porter and Harper’s
CEO Georges Kern. “The [styling app] has a modern, interactive Bazaar. Yeomans says that the idea of Drest came
approach to connecting to women who are both luxury-focused from a Facebook game called FarmVille, when
and fashion forward—a perfect audience for us. Their innovative she began seeing flurries of invitations from all
gaming affords a deeper engagement opportunity to tell our her friends. “I gave FarmVille a go and quickly became
stories in a fun, creative way. The collaboration has been very hooked,” says Yeomans. “It got me thinking how great
successful and we’re excited that there is more to come.” it would be if the subject matter was something I was
interested in—like fashion.”
Breitling’s challenge (where users design a still-life shoot in Yeomans wanted to give gamers the tools a real stylist had
the hope of winning a watch) was played by a third of Drest’s
audience. It includes detailed reproductions of Breitling’s (complete with pixel-perfect renditions of real clothing), but
watches, along with props chosen by Breitling, and players can initially worried that fashion houses would not embrace gaming.
actually buy the watch from the app. “That’s the power of the She was surprised to find that even luxury brands were
platform and I think of gamification in general,’’ says Sayler. enthusiastic. The app is now full of official replicas of high-
fashion items and avatars of real supermodels, such as Precious
Gamification refers to video game-like elements in other apps Lee, Natalia Vodianova, Imaan Hammam and Candice Huffine.
(for instance, when a fitness watch app awards you points for
going for a jog). Breitling worked with fitness app Strava on an “There has been a seismic shift in how luxury brands engage
online competition in which Breitling fans had to complete 500 with consumers,” Yeomans says. “We are in a new age of fashion
minutes of activity to have a chance of winning prizes,
including watches—300,000 people took part.

Sayler says, “I think gamification will become
a very powerful tool to engage people. It comes
back to quality engagement, which I think all

GOOD GAME

Opposite page: TAG Heuer’s
limited-edition Connected x
Super Mario watch with Mario;
Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter V
Limited Edition Blanka. Above:
Gucci’s collaboration with
Fnatic, as modelled by gamer

Martin Larsson (left).

AUTUMN 2021 59

SHOTS FIRED wanted to keep sports fans in the loop by inviting them to take © 2021 UBISOFT ENTERTAINMENT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (DANI ROJAS IN FAR CRY 6); © SQUARE ENIX
part in a different way; allowing them to be connected digitally.” (FINAL FANTASY® XIV ENDWALKER); © CAPCOM U.S.A., INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (STREET FIGHTER
Above: Dani Rojas (who can be played as male or female) in V AND SEIKO COLLABORATION, KEN WATCH). *FIGURE CORRECT AS OF AUGUST 10, 2021.
Far Cry® 6 relies on a bespoke in-game timepiece, such as Breschan says that even after lockdown, Longines intends to
the Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic. Below: Final continue offering more games, saying that it enables the brand
Fantasy XIV Endgame alongside the Citizen x Final Fantasy to reach new audiences, and new potential buyers.
XIV collaboration watches in Darkness (left) and Light.
Thiébaut Bentz, international product and marketing director
and luxury. Gaming allows audiences to participate in the of Maurice Lacroix agrees. “Brands can no longer afford to
storytelling experience themselves. Generation Z have grown ignore gaming,” he says. The brand used gamified social media
up with tech and mobile phones, and they don’t connect with challenges including #chaseyourwatch and #beatthetime,
brands in the same ways as the generations before them. where players were challenged to visit locations in major cities.
Gamified digital experiences are part of their daily lives.” “We started with social gaming in 2018 with our worldwide
interactive treasure hunts,” says Bentz. “The link between
Y EOMANS SAYS THAT Drest is now in discussion with other luxury brands and gaming is not obvious at first. But to reach new
watch brands and intends to launch a new Jewellery generations, it’s important to show an understanding of their
Mode later in the year. She believes that games will lifestyle. Generation Z don’t go home and turn on the television,
become ever more important to the luxury market, with fashion they go to Twitch as a daily entertainment source.”
brands Marc Jacobs and Valentino having shown off looks in
Nintendo’s Animal Crossing last year. “Gaming is bigger than Twitch is a video website, where streamers play video games
film and music combined. It continues to grow at rapid speed. for a live audience watching via PCs, smartphones and tablets.
There’s a massive opportunity,” she says. Bought by Amazon for £700 million in 2014, Twitch is one of the
biggest entertainment platforms, having generated more than
The stereotype of gamers as overwhelmingly young, male 67 billion hours of viewing since it launched, enough for every
(and unwashed) is no longer remotely accurate. Yeomans person in the world to have watched more than eight hours each.
describes the market for female gamers as “huge and
underserved”. Research by Savanta shows that there is an even For younger audiences, gaming has been part of the cultural
split between the sexes among gamers in the U.K., and that landscape since they were born. Several luxury brands unveiled
people of all ages engage with games, with 86 per cent of those watches inspired by video games this year, designed in tandem
aged 16–69 having played games in the past year. with game designers and development teams.

Other brands have developed their own action games. Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, says that he grew up
Longines partnered with gaming companies to develop ones playing Super Mario games on Nintendo consoles, and suggested
based around horse-racing, with a social game inviting players the idea of a limited-edition Super Mario smartwatch (see previous
to predict results at Royal Ascot, and a show-jumping game page) himself. Arnault says, “I have played Super Mario since
for iPhone and Android, where players nurture their horses I was very young and have always been a great fan. I came up
before hurling them round challenging courses. with the idea of this collaboration almost two years ago. The
match between our brands felt right from the start. Mario has an
Matthias Breschan, president of Longines, believes the games incredible international and intergenerational appeal.”
came about as a natural response to the pandemic. “Longines is
passionate about sports, especially equestrian sports, and has
been since the earliest days of the brand. So when the pandemic
hit, and spectators were no longer permitted at events, we

60 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

“Generation Z don’t go
home and turn on the
television—they go
to Twitch as a daily
entertainment source.”

The watch encourages wearers to stay fit, including FIGHT CLUB
gamified elements where an on-screen Super Mario becomes
more jubilant through the day as the wearer completes more From top: Street Fighter’s Ken Masters—and
steps towards a daily target, culminating in the mustachioed the Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter V Limited
plumber leaping onto his trademark victory flag at 100 per cent.
The watch bezel includes icons showing Mario power-ups Edition Ken Model watch Below: Louis Vuitton
including mushrooms and Super Stars. x League of Legends watch.

A RNAULT SAYS, “IT links the world of Super Mario—his the benevolent deities of the game, seen between the indexes.
active, adventurous and competitive spirit—directly The Light model is inspired by the game’s Crystal of Light, with
with the purpose of our smartwatch, which is to offer a translucent blue colour and hands shaped like magic crystals.
a curated digital experience focused on sports and daily
performance. We’ve created something unexpected, yet that In coming years, brands need to embrace the world of gaming
immediately makes sense.” and other natural synergies, believes Ben Tyson, CEO of
marketing agency Born Social. “For a couple of years, luxury
In coming years, engaging with games and related brands have been testing the waters within gaming and esports,”
technology will become more important for luxury watch says Tyson. “Even in 2019, brands such as Louis Vuitton were
brands, believes Arnault. “We are convinced of the importance working with the biggest games, like League of Legends. Gaming
of tech to connect with our customers, wherever they might is the perfect intersection of two industries—the luxury houses
be, and offer them a seamless, highly personalised brand have always had an intimate relationship with sports and
experience online,” says Arnault. “That means applied VR, new entertainment. Both luxury and gaming have big audiences in
community platforms and innovative ways to showcase our
brand. Gaming is a very interesting one for us.” the Far East, too. Markets like China and South Korea
are really mature in gaming and esports, and continue
Seiko 5 Sports introduced a series of automatic watches to be the big-growth markets for luxury brands.”
inspired by the arcade game Street Fighter V—the Seiko 5 Sports
Street Fighter V Limited Edition—featuring five characters, The pandemic offers an opportunity for businesses
to shift their mindset and the watch ambassadors
including son of a rich tycoon,
Ken Masters, burly Russian of the future could indeed be Twitch stars. “In
brawler Zangief and green- the past 30 days alone, leading British Twitch
skinned Brazilian monster streamer TommyInnit had 54.7 million*
Blanka with a lightning pattern views,” says Tyson. “When you think about
inspired by his special Electric what luxury watch brands pay to have
Thunder move. ambassadors like Roger Federer or Lewis
Hamilton to wear one of their watches, it makes
Although Street Fighter
first appeared in 1987, newer complete sense for them to get watches on the
versions of the classic game wrists of the top gaming streamers.” n
have become popular as
competitive esports (widely
viewed through platforms
such as Twitch).

Citizen created two
watches with the team
behind the long-running,
hugely popular online
role-playing game
Final Fantasy XIV
—the Citizen x
Final Fantasy XIV
Collaboration Watch,
in Light and Darkness.
Both are festooned in
the symbols of the Twelve,

AUTUMN 2021 61

ON TIME’S RISING STARS

ONES TO WATCH
Accomplished, ambitious, and —meet the boldest,

brightest young things already entering the horological hall of fame

BY WEI KOH & NICK FOULKES

FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT 26 take an interest in watches, and that restoration apprentice with Jean- © GIAN MARCO CASTELBERG (FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT); TAG HEUER (TAG HEUER CONNECTED); PASCAL CHEVALLIER (JEAN ARNAULT); ANTOINE DELAGE (THÉO AUFFRET).
interest has become a passion. Jean Baptiste Viot and Denis Coperchot
Frédéric was just four studied engineering at Imperial while studying for his baccalaureate
when his family firm College and business at MIT but is an in Morteau, France. It was at this time
bought TAG Heuer, and autodidact when it comes to watch that he began the prototype for his
he was 25 when named collecting. “Jean is an extremely Tourbillon à Paris. He then worked
CEO of the storied impressive young man,” says my with the brilliant Luca Soprana, who
sports watch brand last year, three esteemed colleague Wei Koh, “and I creates Jacob and Co.’s watches. In
years after joining as digital and foresee him doing great things in our 2018, he submitted the still unfinished
strategy director. It may have taken a industry.” As a collector, Jean’s tastes Tourbillon à Paris prototype and won
while for an Arnault to enter the watch are sophisticated and range beyond his F.P.Journe’s Young Talent Competition
industry—after all, their locus classicus impressive knowledge of vintage alongside Rémy Cools. Auffret then
is Paris—but as Frédéric says: “I didn’t Heuer. “I am a big fan of Cartier,” he decamped to Paris and set up an
necessarily want to work in Paris and says, adding wistfully, “and I wish atelier with his former boss Viot, with
La Chaux-de-Fonds has its charms.” I could afford to collect Patek...” the intention of creating a series of
Since arriving in the Jura, Frédéric has No prizes for guessing where his Souscription watches based on the
been making up for lost time: boosting first pay cheque will be going. stunning prize-winning watch.
the brand’s automotive credentials
(think deals with Porsche and Red THÉO AUFFRET 26 The beauty of the watch is in the
Bull); cracking the smart-watch market integration of technical components
with the sports and wellness-focused Théo Auffret’s and time-telling parts with a
Connected watch (golfing app, Super Tourbillon à Paris decentralised symmetry that feels
Mario gamification and more); Souscription is just like the vision of a grand master. The
overhauling the brand ambassador about the coolest balance wheel, the barrel and the dial
programme (expect huge news this looking complicated for the hours each create a circular
autumn); and overseeing the redesign watch I’ve set eyes on in a very long geometric form that is interrupted
of Aquaracer (arguably the sexiest time. Meaning if I had the €108,000 only by the vast imperious minute
entry-level timepiece of the year). burning a hole in my bespoke trousers hand that cuts a swathe of rapier-like
He has a 10-year plan for TAG, so back in 2019, I would have made my elegance across the dial. The subtle
let’s hope he doesn’t get lured away way to the City of Light, headed monochrome allows nuance to be
to run Dior just yet. straight to Auffret’s atelier achieved by contrasting decorative
and laid down a deposit for a watch, techniques. I have never met
JEAN ARNAULT 22 which, from a technical but also a Théo Auffret but he is the young
design language perspective, is an independent watchmaker I am most
Isn’t it always the way: absolute masterpiece. fascinated by, as his is the capacity to
you wait almost 20 Something of an overachiever from create unequivocal horological beauty
years for a member of the beginning, Auffret became a watch with a voice that is utterly original.
the Arnault family to
take a role in the “I didn’t DILLON BHATT 25
family’s watch business, and then necessarily
two come along almost at once. Jean Anish Bhatt, founder
Arnault, the youngest scion of luxury’s want to and CEO of the
leading dynasty, has joined the watch work in does-what-it-says-on-
and jewellery division of Louis Vuitton Paris and La the-tin social media
to advise on strategy (for what it’s Chaux-de- phenomenon that is
worth, my tip would be a little more Fonds has its @watchanish, captured the hedonism
along the lines of this year’s superb charms.” of early 21st century watchmaking and
Jacquemart Carpe Diem Complication, became possibly the best-known, and
see p.84). His older brother Frédéric’s FRÉDÉRIC certainly the most extroverted, of the
arrival at TAG Heuer caused him to A R N AU LT first generation of watch influencers.
(Think having your Richard Mille

62 VA N I T Y F A I R O N T I M E

JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH (PIERRE BIVER); PAULINE GIRARD (CYRIL BRIVET-NAUDOT); AUDEMARS PIGUET (AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHINA LIMITED EDITION); REVOLUTION (BEREND BULANG); ALEX LAU (AUSTEN CHU). delivered to your suite at The Alpina “We are ON TIME’S RISING STARS
by helicopter.) Anish’s perpetually helping to
exuberant world of super cars, giga define the business. In the ensuing nine years,
yachts and hyper horology captured tastes and Bernhard has built the company up to
the imagination of his nephew Dillon, lifestyles be one of the premier online vintage
who joined the WatchAnish graduate of a new watch and lifestyle businesses. In
trainee programme. He has now generation.” 2020, it was announced that his son
branched out on his own with a Berend would join him. In an interview
portfolio business covering the AUSTEN CHU with Ross Povey for Revolution
London-Cyprus-Mumbai corridor, Magazine, Berend explained the
offering brand consultancy, collection be one that is the most flamboyant, appeal of Bulang & Sons. “We don’t
curation, client advisory and, of passionate and eccentric—and this is particularly see ourselves as a watch
course, the family business of social Cyril Brivet-Naudot. There is also boutique or as dealers, but more as a
media influencing. “I am not a clearly something in the water at lifestyle brand for watch lovers,” he
dealer,” he says, “I try to build Morteau, France, where Brivet-Naudot said. “The entire team here is
relationships and educate people studied watchmaking before heading passionate about vintage watches and
about such brands as De Bethune, to Lausanne for his Bachelor’s in we only sell what we personally love to
MB&F, and Greubel Forsey.” Science. He then went on to work in own.” What Berend has demonstrated
prototyping and watch restoration so far is that he is a young man of
PIERRE BIVER 21 until an extraordinary concept impeccable taste and sage advice, such
coalesced in his mind. He was going to as to “buy the finest example of what
Few people in the watch make watches, but without any you can afford”. He is equally
industry, let alone computer aid. He was going to rock it enthusiastic about vintage Rolexes,
someone 21 years of old school and do it all by hand. This Tudors and Omega Speedmasters.
age, have had the is basically the equivalent of saying What is of fundamental importance
ringside seat on the that instead of using robotic keyhole is that in order to grow watch
watch industry that Pierre Biver has surgery, a surgeon is going to give you collecting we are in vital need of
enjoyed. Jean-Claude Biver is one of a swig of whiskey and a twig to bite on young ambassadors such as Berend.
the giants of the late 20th and early and perform complex surgery using “Collecting doesn’t necessarily start
21st century, but even this revered his Frontiersman Bowie knife. when you can afford what you really
figure is happy to learn from his son, want,” he says. “It starts with an
some 50 years his junior. While his Yet the watch that Naudot created appreciation and even a hunger early
father came to vintage watches late in was ravishing in its beauty. His on that you will take with you later
his career, Pierre has begun with the adhesion to his handmade rule when you can afford these things.”
past, taking time off his studies to work is inspired by the forgotten era of
in the London office of Phillips under watchmaking before the automatism AUSTEN CHU 24
the tutelage of James Marks. He has that is the industry norm today. His
now returned to formal education in first watch is aptly named Eccentricity, Austen Chu, otherwise
Switzerland, where he is studying at and uses the free eccentric escapement known by his IG handle
the University of Lausanne. Whether created by Louis Richard in the 19th @horoloupe, is a force
he will work with vintage or modern century. But no Nouvelle Vague watch of nature and proof
watches is undecided, but either way would be complete without a double positive that age has no
Pierre seems to have inherited his entendre, which is expressed through bearing on an individual’s maturity
father’s powers of persuasion, making the time indication comprised of two and success. Still in his early twenties,
the latter rethink his collection and sell rings sitting next to the balance wheel. Chu is both an Audemars Piguet brand
watches he never thought he would The eccentric hour ring sits within the ambassador and the designer of their
part with. “At the moment watch minute ring, which is fitted with a pane China limited edition Royal Oak
collectors tend to be quite old,” of sapphire crystal and is read off a perpetual calendar. He is also the
observes Jean-Claude, who feels that, charming tear drop indicator. founder of wristcheck.com, Asia’s
“there is a lot to do to seduce the young, hottest pre-owned watch business
and for that you need to speak the BEREND BULANG 20 found both online and in a state-of-
same language.” the-art bricks-and-mortar shop in
Bernhard Bulang took Hong Kong’s prestigious Landmark
CYRIL BRIVET-NAUDOT 30 something of a gamble Prince’s shopping centre. He explains:
naming his company “The landlords understood that we
In any artistic Bulang & Sons in 2012, want the Wrist Check shop to be a
movement, such as the at a time when his unique experience, that we aren’t
Nouvelle Vague of offspring were not yet in a position to just selling watches but helping to
French watchmaking decide if they wanted to join the family define the tastes and lifestyles of a
prodigies, there has to whole new generation.” Similarly, his
major online content generating team
includes several ex-Hypebeast staff.

AUTUMN 2021 63

ON TIME’S RISING STARS “I feel beauty Patek Philippe is an Instagram page LAURENT-XAVIER MOULIN (ANDREA FURLAN); FARRO, REFERENCE 1022-B (ANDREA FURLAN); CHRISTIES LTD. 2021 (GEORGINA HILTON); HOROLOGY ANCIENNE; PHILLIPS (ZACH LU).
should be with a mere 280 brilliant posts named
“There is a huge amount of people available in @horology_ancienne. This wonderful
making the transition from streetwear a watch creation—written by a 25-year-old
and sneakers into watches,” Chu that almost collector who, together with his father,
explains. “In fact, they realise that anyone can is in possession of one of the very
watches are an even better appreciable afford.” greatest watch collections on earth—
asset because they can wear them and really takes watch collecting back to its
still retain their value, which is not true ANDREA scholarly essence.
of sneakers. These young people don’t FURLAN
mind having all their net worth in one Says that person, who prefers to
watch because they know if they Furlan. “Meaning that I feel beauty, remain anonymous: “My father was
bought it correctly they will make great design and quality should be a huge collector and in particular
money on it anyway.” But Chu rapidly available in a watch that almost loved Patek Philippe. He was quite a
identified one major gap in the market anyone can afford. The idea of a watch significant client and developed a truly
and that was: “No one was speaking to being a dream that you have to save wonderful relationship with Philippe
this generation in their own language. your whole life for doesn’t work with Stern. In the old days they would sit
We specialise in that. No one wants to Millennials and Generation Z.” together and go through each new
be presented with a watch by a stuffy watch in the collection every year.
old-fashioned person who’s not GEORGINA HILTON 30 He’s made 45 special order watches
speaking the language and with Patek over the years. But at some
understanding the customer of today.” Just sneaking in under point he got tired of the auction scene
our age limit, Georgina because it became all about price and
ANDREA FURLAN 28 Hilton is a relative money. He longed for the thoughtful
newcomer to the scholarly approach to collecting and so
Andrea Furlan and his wonderful world of he stepped away from the hobby—until
partner Hamad Al watches. She arrived via a degree in I got interested in it. One day, I asked
Marri basically broke Art History and a spell in the Old him why Patek perpetual chronographs
the internet this year Masters Department of Christie’s King the 1518, the 2499, the 3970, and the
with the launch of their Street. Born into an auctioneering 5970 have so much differentiation. He
kickstarter brand Furlan Marri. Furlan family, for a while she was Christie’s replied, ‘There is a whole library in our
is a Swiss designer who graduated youngest gavel wielder before being home where you will find the answers
from the elite ECAL (École cantonale posted to Hong Kong to run marketing but if I tell you my thoughts I will
d’art de Lausanne) and went on to and events. “Everyone at Christie’s has merely be creating a puppet of myself.’
work for brands such as Chopard, a day job,” she explains, so for the So I dove in, and in the process, fell in
Hublot, Sarcar and HD3. He is perhaps moment her engagement with watches love with the watches. My enthusiasm
most famous for having designed is nocturnal. When the pandemic hit, reignited his passion and one day he
Dominique Renaud’s DR01. One thing star auctioneers were unable to travel, said, ‘We should start an Instagram
we like about him is his natural interest “which gave us in Hong Kong some account to express what we love about
in the world that took him on a limelight,” she says. Very shrewdly, these wonderful pieces.’”
pilgrimage around the globe. While in Christie’s Hong Kong watch supremo
Asia, he met suppliers for many watch Alexandre Bigler had her take the first With that, one of the most uplifting,
brands and saw that everything Christie’s evening sale devoted to edifying and educational resources on
needed to make a high quality but watches in Asia earlier this year. “Alex social media was born. The younger
super affordable watch was available to liked the idea of a younger auctioneer of the HA team has since convinced
him. Along his journey, Furlan started for the evening watch sale as a lot of his father to incorporate watches from
to share his vision with his old friend the clients are younger too,” she says, Audemars and Vacheron, but it is clear
Hamad Al Marri, a deeply passionate modestly concealing her great skill from their eloquent expression that
watch collector with an endless beneath her youth. their love for Patek is boundless. They
interest in every aspect of horology. are still active on the auction scene but
When the pandemic hit, they started HOROLOGY_ANCIENNE 25 never in the room, loving their closely
to discuss the idea of a brand they guarded anonymity. They were kind
both felt there was a strong need for. One of the most enough to share some clues, but we
Both the designer and collector were insightful and shall keep their identity to ourselves.
enamoured with certain horological beautifully written
icons; both loved the design language resources for ZACH LU 30
of watches from the 1930s and ’40s. information on rare
But the genius of Furlan was to create and vintage watches with a focus on A cursory browse
one of the world’s most desirable through Zach Lu’s
watches at a price that more can Instagram account
afford—$330. “I believe in the @zachattack__25
democratisation of horology,” says is likely to give

64 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

COURTESY OF ETIENNE MALEC (ETIENNE MALEC); CHOPARD (KARL-FRITZ SCHEUFELE); PHILLIPS (TIFFANY TO). even the most seasoned, jaded and Venus Calibre 150—that showed us for ON TIME’S RISING STARS
accomplished collector the following the first time what a potential high
reaction: a sharp intake of breath, luxury version Baltic watch could look watch zeitgeist. Yet, in spite of the
eyes begin to bulge, throat goes dry like—and it looks very good indeed. success of the new launch, Karl-Fritz
and pulse starts racing dangerously. Even Luc Pettavino, the founder of has elected to continue his business
Because, assembled there, you will Only Watch, admitted, “I was blown studies at the prestigious Ecole
see a panoply of heavy-hitting Patek away by this watch. Etienne is a design hôtelière de Lausanne, equipping him
finery that is simply transcendent and genius.” Malec’s passion for watches perfectly for opening the Chopard-
perfectly expresses Lu’s extraordinary stems from inheriting his father’s owned Hôtel de Vendôme in Paris.
taste and his capacity to acquire watch collection when he passed away
the very best. For many years, Lu’s prematurely when Etienne was just TIFFANY TO 28
existence was something of an five. He says, “His watches were a way
urban myth. We had all heard of the I could acquaint myself with a man I “I have 10 million
individual who bought Vacheron otherwise didn’t really get to know.” If dollars sir,” was the
Constantin’s Tour de l’Ile—at the time the spirit of Malec’s father is first thing I ever heard
the world’s most complicated watch— transmitted into each Baltic watch, future auction
for 1.8 million Swiss Francs back in then his legacy lives on most assuredly panjandrum Tiffany To
2005, when he was a freshman in high through the work of his talented son. say, in this case directed to her boss
school. Since then, Lu has developed and mentor, the legendary Aurel Bacs,
into one of the most savvy and tasteful KARL-FRITZ SCHEUFELE 24 as he opened the floor to bids on Paul
watch collectors in the world and, in Newman’s actual Paul Newman
addition, an extremely nice young Karl-Friedrich Daytona, to date the most expensive
man. In the 16 years since his first Scheufele was quite Rolex ever sold at auction. Since then,
major watch purchase, he’s evolved to concerned about his vintage watch lovers the world over
focus on Patek Philippe complications son Karl-Fritz. “When have continued to be impressed by
and rare iterations of these watches, he was relatively young the very cool, clearly brilliant and
as well as his piece unique “Pepsi” I was worried about him not being charismatic To, who also happens to be
Richard Mille RM56 sapphire interested in watches. I bought him a very nice human being.
tourbillon. Lu has worked incognito at one or two watches but he did not wear The role of the watch auctioneer
Phillips auction house alongside other them.” He needn’t have worried. In is evolving to be akin to that of the
luminaries of the new generation, but fact, like his father, Karl-Fritz has very celebrity chef in contemporary culture,
it was rumoured that he also spent clear opinions and ideas about what as the love for watches has spread
considerable time bidding on the best constitutes a real watch. One of those beyond the purview of traditional
pieces himself. ideas was to relaunch the St Moritz— collectors and gone mainstream. And
the high-glam sports watch that had so it is that the auction world is very
ETIENNE MALEC 30 been an early 1980s Chopard icon. much in search of its next rockstar.
And, again like his father, he is Someone with amazing taste, an
If Jacques Selosse is the determined. When he encountered a extraordinary sense of nuance and
grandfather of grower little resistance to the idea of spending detail, and the capacity to unearth
champagnes, then a few million Swiss Francs developing a treasures and transform the selling
Etienne Malec created new line suggested by someone barely of them into high theatre. That same
the self-funding, indie in their twenties, Karl-Fritz went above person must connect with the next
start-up blueprint that gave rise to a his father’s head and convinced his generation of buyers while also
whole new generation of micro brands, grandfather, as well as a few of broadening the appeal of horological
from Furlan Marri to Jacques Bianchi. Chopard’s key retailers. The result is culture. Our money, or should we
But his impact on the watch industry the Alpine Eagle, a model that has say our blockchain-backed virtual
has been immense in that he truly captured the grande-luxe sports currency, is on To. Perhaps her most
demonstrated unequivocally that charming quality is her profound
fantastically designed, well-made, “I was humility, which means she will
vintage-inspired watches could be blown away undoubtedly be a bit embarrassed to
created and sold for a sub-$500 price be included in this list.
point. Started in 2017 and launched on by this However, what she should
Kickstarter with the Bi-Compax and watch. understand is this… When describing
the HMS, Etienne has since broadened Etienne Lot 145 of Geneva Auction XII, a
the Baltic offering to include the Malec is a pristine Rolex 6234, To said, “When
Aquascaphe diving watch. However, it design you think all things have been found
is his piece unique for Only Watch this genius.” and all the world’s treasures have been
year—a Breguet numeral design seen, you come across watches that
masterwork of a chronograph LUC represent what it means to search
featuring a vintage new old stock P E T TAV I N O for the best in quality.” If you replaced
the word “watches” with “people”
she could be describing herself. n

AUTUMN 2021 65

The Vanity Fair On Time

Future
ISSUE
PORTFOLIO 2021

66 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E

PINK SABLÉ BUTTON DOWN SHIRT, KHAKI WIDE LEG WOOL TROUSERS AND BLACK LEATHER BOOTS, ALL BY GUCCI. Singer-Songwriter
STYLED BY LUCY UPTON-PROWSE; MAKE-UP BY EMILIE LOUIZIDES USING GLOSSIER; NAILS BY CHISATO AT CAREN & Poet
U S I N G O P I N A I L L AC Q U E R ; P RO D U C T I O N BY H O L LY RO S S ; S P E C I A L T H A N K S TO TA N J YA H O L L A N D PA R K I N .
A R LO PA R KS

Photograph by Matt Holyoak

Since the release of her debut EP, Super Sad
Generation, 21-year-old Arlo Parks has been
pegged as the voice of a generation, an accolade
towards which she’s expressed both pleasure and
reluctance. Her debut studio album, Collapsed in
Sunbeams, has only heightened her information-
age appeal, with a series of vignettes that touch
upon adolescent longing, mental health and sexual
identity with a quietly stirring, intoxicating ease
and a sound that melds lo-fi bedroom pop, jazz,
and indie-leaning R&B. The tender potency of her
music has naturally resonated with Generation
Z—those born between 1997 and 2012—with
whom Parks commiserates in the chorus of her
EP’s titular track: “We’re a super sad generation /
Killing time and losing our paychecks”. For these
young souls, timekeeping, presumably, is the work
of an iPhone’s omnipotent glow; not so for Parks.
“I think there’s something grounding and
inimitable about having a physical watch. There is
something tactile about it that you can’t get from
a phone or computer,” she says. “To me, it’s like
reading a paperback, writing in a journal, going to
the theatre—there is no way these basic, human
ways of consuming things can be replaced.” The
singer first marked time in this concrete way with
a “cute little gold vintage Casio for my birthday”
aged 15 in West London, where she grew up with
“avid watch-wearer” parents. These days, Parks
has graduated to the likes of Gucci and
A. Lange & Söhne, favouring a balance between
functionality and delicate craftsmanship in her
timepieces and, judging by the irresistible
universality and unique artistry of her music, in
her work too. The Grand Lange 1 Pink gold with
dial in argenté is her dream watch because “it has
this gorgeous, mechanical aesthetic quality and
feels traditional but full of character”. But, however
it is measured, Parks’ appreciation of time belies
her years: “As I’ve grown older, I’ve become more
conscious about being present and treasuring the
time I have. I’m conscious that it’s finite but I’m
also at peace with that fact.”—JESSICA BURRELL

Photographed in Haggerston, London on July 21, 2021,
wearing a Gucci 25H stainless steel watch.

AUTUMN 2021 67

Tennis Player

STEFA NOS TSITSIPAS

Photograph by Benjamin Bechet

“Time is everything, and time is knowledge,”
says Stefanos Tsitsipas, the 22-year-old who came
tantalisingly close to winning his first Grand Slam
win at Roland-Garros in June. The highest ranked
Greek player in history has wowed admirers with
his explosive big game—which has catapulted him
to No.3 in the world—and with his exploratory,
mindful nature off court, captured in YouTube
travel vlogs and Instagram posts. “Make the
moment important, vital, and worth living,” runs
his caption under an image of New York City. It’s a
philosophy that can be attributed to his first watch,
a black and yellow sporty model that was a ninth
birthday present from his father Apostolos. “He
gave it to me with a piece of advice: ‘The most
powerful warriors in this life are patience and
time’,” recalls Tsitsipas. “I carry that with me
everywhere—a simple sentence, which makes you
see time in a different way.” When it comes to a
stylish device to wear off court, his favourite watch
is his Rolex Cosmograph Daytona: “It matches my
personality, it’s a piece of me. I wear it all the time
and I see it as part of my legacy.” While pursuing
his ambition to reach the pinnacle of tennis,
Tsitsipas is careful not to be a blinkered athlete.
“I’m always trying to get the juices out of the fruit
that we call life,” he says. “Sometimes I struggle to
find time for many things, as time passes fast.
Having my watch to keep track of time is really
important.”—SARAH EDWORTHY

Photographed at the Monte Carlo Country Club on July 8,
2021, wearing a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

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Airspeeder CEO & Founder

MATT PEARSON

Photograph by Sven Kovac

Le Petit Prince, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s story of a child who gains wisdom by travelling the universe, is a “favourite book” of
Matt Pearson, creator of Airspeeder, the racing series for electric flying cars. Pearson’s favourite “everyday timepiece” is also
inspired by de Saint-Exupéry’s novella: the IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Petit Prince edition evokes IWC’s “lineage in the
aviation and racing worlds”. As perfect expressions of precision engineering, mechanical watchmaking “will always represent the
very best that human beings can technically achieve,” says Pearson. Whether building watches or constructing electric flying
cars, IWC and Airspeeder “share an approach that empowers the engineers and craftspeople to create mechanical objects that
perfectly perform a specific function.” Pearson’s other job is running Fleet Space Technologies, which is presently ringing the
Earth with 140 nanosatellites. “I’m fascinated by the stars and worlds beyond them. This is beautifully expressed in the IWC
Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia, which can calculate the position of celestial objects.” In marrying art, science, design, engineering
and “narrative materiality”, mechanical watches provide an “emotional connection” that boldly goes beyond what a digital
instrument can do. A watch like the IWC Petit Prince “emphasises the power of dreams and the importance of clarity in our
vision,” says Pearson. “More than tell the time, it reminds us how we should use time.”—RORY ROSS

Photographed in Adelaide, Australia on August 5, 2021, wearing an IWC Big Pilot Watch 43.

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Drone Flying Champion

LUKE BANNISTER

Photograph by David Goldman

Drones and wristwatches are first cousins. Ever since Santos-Dumont asked a jeweller friend in 1904 to produce a watch on a
leather strap so that he could tell the time while flying, wristwatches and aeroplanes have co-evolved into complex miniaturised
versions of earlier technology built for extreme environments. Luke Bannister, 21, who has been racing drones professionally since
the age of 15, is a latecomer to the world of exquisite timepieces. He has been busily immersed in drones: building them, racing
them, flying them to shoot aerial sequences for commercials, and using them to deliver medical supplies. To manoeuvre a
speeding drone, information and action become reflex. “I can’t just take out my phone and have a look at it,” he says. “I need to
be able to check times, keep a schedule and track daylight hours while holding my gear… Traditional luxury watches are not
something I could wear day to day; however, a timeless piece like the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 means I’m ready
whatever the occasion.” Bannister’s favourite watch, the Breitling Chronograph 45 Night Mission, is “light enough not to interfere
with my flying yet stylish enough to dress up or down. It’s also exceptionally durable, lightweight and particularly unobtrusive.”
His ultimate watch, the Breitling Navitimer, was de rigueur among aviators for its iconic circular slide rule, which could compute
flight data. “There’s just so much aeronautical history associated with it,” he says. To those who dismiss wristwatches as
anachronisms, Bannister weighs in: “Phones and digital watches run out of battery, can be useless without signal or internet,
and often don’t fare well in extreme weather, which is increasingly part of our lives.”—R. R.

Photographed at the Bristol Life Sciences Building, University of Bristol on July 16, 2021, wearing a Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43.

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RETOUCHING BY RODOLFO MELLO. Skateboarder

RAYSSA LEAL

Photograph by Gabriela Batista

Rayssa Leal acquired the nickname “Fadinha”
(Little Fairy) in September 2015 after video clips
went viral of the seven-year-old Brazilian
schoolgirl dressed in a bright blue fairy dress
emerging from an alley and flying over three steps
on her skateboard as she attempted a heel flip. She
falls the first time and the second, but at the third
attempt perfects the manoeuvre and nonchalantly
skates away to an ovation from onlookers suitably
impressed that the youngster had landed such a
big trick. Even skateboarding legend Tony Hawk
shared the clip with his fans. Fast forward to July
2021 and Rayssa, now aged 13, wins a silver medal
in the inaugural Women’s Street Finals at the
Tokyo Olympics, becoming the youngest Brazilian
ever to compete at the Games. The camaraderie
among the competitors was something to behold,
one of the major takeaways from this year’s
Games. Of course, being a child of the digital age,
Rayssa is never without her Apple Series 6 watch,
which she customises with different watchbands—
it helps her to keep track of her exercise routine,
monitor the outside temperature (very important
for an outdoor street skater), take calls, listen to
music (“obvs”, as they say), control her training
time and “oh, whenever the teacher lets me, I use
the calculator to do math exercises at school.”
Even as she navigates her new life as a decorated
Olympian (she has also won a host of other street
skating titles), and paves the way for the next
generation of female skaters, she wants to make
sure that her enhanced status and responsibility
don’t detract from the fun she still gets out of the
sport. If she could speak to her younger self, she
says, she “would tell six- year-old Rayssa to keep
believing in her dreams because one day the
Little Fairy will turn into an Olympic medallist.”
—HOLLY ROSS

Photographed at Praça Mané Garrincha, Imperatriz, Brazil on
August 9, 2021, wearing an Apple Series 6 watch.

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Television Presenter

ROSIE TAPNER

Photograph by Philip Sinden

“I’m always on time or very early,” says Rosie
Tapner, model, television presenter, and
“adrenaline junkie”. “That will never change!”
In time as in life, Tapner keeps things simple.
“I prefer a watch that works and just, well, tells the
time,” she shrugs. She spreads the chronometric
load over three watches: for evenings, a Cartier
that her family gave her, or a Longines that was
gifted to her; by day, she wears an Apple, her
workhorse. “I am so active around horses,” she
says, “that I don’t want to ruin my nice ones.”
As a model, Tapner was the face of Balenciaga in
2012, but horses always came before fashion. She
rose through the Pony Club on her horse Floyd;
this year, she has juggled television commitments
for Ascot and Goodwood while managing the
leading Team Swish in the new Racing League.
This month, she presents the Blenheim Horse
Trials for Horse & Country TV. “Apart from
needing to be in the right place at the right time,
I don’t need a watch for the presenting part of my
job,” says the ever-punctual Tapner, whose careers
illustrate the wisdom that time rewards those
who respect it. “Time has shown me the value
of patience and hard work,” she says. “Nothing
is ever handed to you. So make sure you go out
there and get it yourself.”—R. R.

Photographed in Chipperfield, Hertfordshire, on August 12,
2021, wearing a Clé de Cartier watch.

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By N I C H O L A S F O U L K E S
Artwork by M A X - O - M AT I C

SHUTTERSTOCK; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO.

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