Vanity Fair UK 10.2021

with the boy I was seeing at the time when the this,’ ” she said Palmer told her. “ ‘You have I told McKendall I would have gladly
incident happened,” which M. did not see as to move on.’ ” (Citing confidentiality, the talked to them.
relevant. “They asked me a lot of questions school would not respond to questions about
about the text where I said it was my fault. M’s account.) “If it was a miscommunication, let us be
I tried to explain to them I was afraid [the the first to offer you an apology for it,” said
alleged attacker] was going to kill himself.” That night, news of the principal’s deci- McKendall.
sion raced around campus via social media,
After the interview, M. said, Palmer told and the next day, more than 200 students “Do you think that that constitutes a prob-
her not to continue talking to anyone about stormed Rawson’s office. M. stayed home lem in your investigation?” I asked.
the alleged attack, as it could be considered that day, not wanting to be the focus of the
“retaliation,” and M. could face disciplinary protest, but kids sent her photos and texts. McKendall said, “Well, because David
action. “I felt like, this is literally the most Weber admitted to the conduct—”
traumatic experience of my life thus far,” M. “The students at Exeter are incredible
said. “I’m going to talk to my friends about it.” people,” she said. “I wouldn’t have gotten “So his word is more important than
through this without them. I developed clini- mine?” I asked.
OVER THE NEXT few weeks, as April 2019 cal depression over this. They saved me.”
turned into May, M. said she heard noth- “Oh, certainly not,” McKendall said.
ing from the administration. She continued IT WAS AFTER M. reminded me how incred- “It sure looks like it,” I said.
sessions with a school therapist the acad- ible Exeter kids can be that I decided to go on “I would disagree with that,” she said.
emy had arranged for her to see. She was a video chat that my classmates were having I asked whether Weber had thought that
anxious, she said, waiting for the outcome in May of this year. I’d continued to feel upset I was the one who had made the allegation;
of the investigation. “I spent a lot of those by what had happened with the Weber email, McKendall and Catanzano said this was not
days throwing up.” and I thought my classmates might have his understanding; he knew it was a third
some suggestions about what to do about it. party. When I asked whether Weber had
Frustrated by a seeming lack of transpar- been told that I had denied the allegation—
ency, she said she went to see Palmer several “You need to talk to Holland & Knight,” something I asked twice on this call—they
times, asking her, “What’s going on?” “You someone said after I’d told them about the did not answer directly.
guys are keeping me out of things,” M. said situation, which they seemed to find as Catanzano responded by saying, “I asked
she told the director of student well-being. bizarre as I did (there were about 20 people him if he knew your name, and from him
“I’m suffering. This is hurting me.” She said on the call). knowing your name, he did remember you.
Palmer said it was taking so long because That is when he shared this information with
“she [was] dealing with so many cases” and “How can I do that?” I asked. “Will they us. We did not press him for that.” They also
“they were so busy interviewing people.” talk to me?” stressed that Weber had had his attorney
“She told me to keep things quiet, like, ‘Don’t present.
talk to people.’… It felt like she kept trying to A few of my classmates agreed to be cc’d “He immediately, upon hearing my name,
keep me quiet.” on an email to Rawson asking him if I could offered this information?”—meaning his
talk to Exeter’s lawyers at Holland & Knight. confession—I asked.
When M. then asked friends on the list One was my friend John Burbank; the other “Within moments,” Catanzano said, “he
she had given Palmer of people to interview three were people who were active in the shared that you were a student he was close
about her case—“people who’d seen me alumni community. with, and we asked him what he meant by
[after the alleged assault] and my parents being ‘close with,’ and within moments of
too”—“they were all like, ‘No, they never Rawson put me in touch with Holly that, he shared with us that he kissed you.” In
interviewed me,’ ” she said. “I marched my Barcroft, Exeter’s general counsel, who con- the basement of Dutch House, in the spring
ass over to [Palmer’s] office and I was like, nected me with Miriam McKendall and Phil of 1982.
‘Are you kidding me?’ Then she retook the Catanzano at Holland & Knight. On June 3, I started to laugh; the whole thing sud-
names and the next day they all got emails 2021, I had a Zoom call with McKendall and denly struck me as so absurd. I didn’t even
about getting interviewed.” Catanzano. I learned on this call that Catan- remember that Dutch House had a basement.
zano was the attorney who had interviewed Catanzano seemed irritated by my laugh-
Finally, in the second week of May, M. Weber during the investigation into the third- ter. “Excuse me,” he said a bit testily. “We
said she was called into Rawson’s office—she party allegation that Weber and I had had a did not know the extent of his behavior until
hadn’t spoken to him about any of this until “sexual relationship.” I had a lot of questions he shared it.”
now. She said that Rawson said the report on for the lawyers, which I’d written out prior “It never happened,” I told them.
the investigation into her alleged assault— to the conversation so I would remember After some more back and forth, Catan-
which M. was never allowed to read—had everything I wanted to ask. zano told me, “Our goal here today was to
come to the conclusion: “ ‘You were able to hear your perspective on what occurred.”
consent.’ ” When I asked why Exeter had continued A few times during the call, the lawyers
this investigation even after I had denied the asked me to talk about Weber; but it made
“That was it. That’s the quote,” said M. allegation about Weber, McKendall said that me wary, wondering if perhaps whatever I
She said Rawson then reassured her that she it was part of the “process” to reach out to the said would be used in their report, to some-
and her alleged attacker would both be able persons involved and that included Weber. how bolster the academy’s version of events,
to graduate. “It was something weird and so I didn’t answer. I told them if they would
invalidating. There was no apology. Nothing “But you never reached out to me,” I just listen to my questions, they would know
like, ‘We recognize you went through some- reminded her. everything they needed to know about what
thing hard.’ It was just pretty cold and dry. I felt about this situation.
I remember Palmer said, ‘Do you have any McKendall agreed that, no, they had not. “Are you aware of Her Voice at the Table?”
questions?’ I started crying. I started break- The reason being, she said, “as we under- I asked.
ing down and I flew out of the room.” stood it, the academy had reached out to “No,” said McKendall, “tell me.”
you, and you had made it clear that you didn’t Her Voice at the Table was a series of virtual
M. said Palmer caught up with her and want to be contacted about that.” events Exeter had run over the last year to cel-
walked her over to the campus health ser- ebrate 50 years of coeducation at the school.
vices—M. was afraid she was going to have After Palmer had upset me with her call, As part of the festivities, in the spring of 2021,
another panic attack. “ ‘You can’t change I did email and told her not to contact me
anymore, but that email was addressed to
Palmer alone; I had continued to talk to
Rawson. And I never knew that Holland &
Knight was continuing with the investigation.

OCTOBER 2021 99

Mr. Weber’s Confession (A spokesperson for the school denies this, proceeding in the way they are because they
saying, “Ms. Barcroft simply informed David were humiliated by the whole Schubart thing
Gloria Steinem spoke at a virtual symposium. Weber that Holland & Knight would like him and the way it assimilated Exeter into the
“Do you find it ironic that in this situation, to submit to an additional interview, in light larger New England prep school narrative
of new information received.”) of decades-long sexual abuse of students,
my voice was not consulted by you?” I asked. especially by faculty. Now their focus is on
“I disagree that your voice wasn’t con- Barcroft’s call to Weber came weeks after extricating themselves from that narrative
I had denied the allegation to Palmer, Raw- and demonstrating that they’re no longer
sulted by the academy,” said McKendall. son, and the Exeter police. But Barcroft did like that, and they have zero tolerance for
not inform Weber of any of this, he said; he any kind of boundary violation.”
THE NEXT DAY, I mailed a letter to Weber at wasn’t aware of my denials until he got my
his home in New Hampshire. After talking to letter. And then in October 2020, he had his I was thinking of M.
the lawyers, I was more doubtful than ever interview with Catanzano over Zoom.
that he had actually confessed; none of it WEBER AND I spoke again a couple of weeks
made sense to me. I tried to make this let- “So did you tell him anything happened?” later with his lawyer, Russell Hilliard, on the
ter as brief and spare as possible so as not to I asked. phone. I wanted to hear more about what had
confuse him—I’d started to wonder if he’d happened when Weber was interviewed
possibly become confused in his old age. “I told him that we kissed,” he said. about me by Holland & Knight, and his law-
I was stunned. yer had offered to be on this call.
I told him that I was not the one who had “Why did you do that?” I asked.
made the accusation against him; that I had “Because we did,” he said. “I’m surprised On the call, Weber also shared that some of
denied this accusation; and that I’d like to talk that you remember that differently.” his fellow teachers and former students had
to him about it. Within a few days he emailed I had imagined that Weber would have expressed support for him and reached out to
me back at the address I’d given, saying, “Of some other explanation—that he felt pres- Rawson to express their dismay at the “hug-
course I’m willing to talk with you.” sured or cornered or rattled; that he had ging and kissing” email. Weber was troubled,
thought that by saying he had kissed me he he said, at seeing some of the posts on the
“If the school had treated this ‘case’ as was somehow pleading to a lesser charge Exonians Facebook page that had appeared
a misdemeanor, so to speak, and without than a “sexual relationship,” for which there after the email had landed, comments which
duplicity,” Weber wrote, “I would have might even be legal repercussions—anything characterized him as a predator, of “abusing
entirely moved on by now. Since they have but this casual assertion of something of an adolescent.” (The page is public.)
proceeded as they have, I’ve only partly which I had no memory.
moved on; I’m still angry.” “I have no recollection of that at all,” I told When people posted positive comments
him. “Are you sure you remember me?” about him—“He was someone I trusted
I called him at his home on June 7, 2021. I He laughed and said, “Yes, I do.” implicitly,” for example—they were chal-
was nervous as the phone rang; the situation “Do you have any signs of memory loss or lenged by those who insisted that they had a
was so awkward. But as soon as I heard his dementia or anything?” I asked. “Or could “moral obligation to examine those memories
voice, I felt more comfortable, recognizing you be confusing me with another person?” in light of new information.” These defenders
the person I knew. He sounded the same, He said, “No.” of victims said that expressing any positive
almost 40 years later. “So you told him this because you thought memories of Weber was offensive to—even
it happened.” a form of violence against—all victims. This
“You say you’re angry about this; so am I,” “Correct,” he said. was a strange and unsettling thing for me to
I told him. “I don’t like the way I was treated.” “Okay,” I said. “Well, I’m telling you it read, as I was the alleged victim in this case
I asked him to tell me the story of what hap- never happened.” and I knew that no abuse had happened.
pened from his side. “Okay,” Weber said. “I’m convinced that
it did happen, although I’m also convinced “I think some of the firestorm on Face-
Weber said that for him it all started in and have always said that there was no sexual book was people thinking there must have
2017, when he was questioned by Catan- dimension to it.” been more to [Rawson’s email] than it said,”
zano in connection with Cecilia Morgan’s I was trying to understand him. I sud- Weber speculated. “Otherwise the academy
complaint to Exeter about Richard Schu- denly had a different memory—a memory wouldn’t have acted in such an extreme
bart. “They were investigating whether there of something I don’t think I ever would have way”—delivering the same punishment to
had been failures to report,” he said. “What remembered but for this conversation. It was him that it had handed down to Cecilia Mor-
I told them was I had no recollection of such of a different English teacher, a burly fellow gan’s abuser, Richard Schubart.
a conversation with [Cecilia’s sister] Maria, who, at graduation, hugged me so hard it
but in general I thought Maria was a reliable knocked the wind out of me. I remembered Weber said the first draft of Rawson’s
person, so if she said there was a conversa- how my older brother, who’d been standing email had actually said that he had admitted
tion, there must have been a conversation, there, had later asked, “What was that?” And to “sexual misconduct.” But Weber and Hill-
but not one in which I understood there was I told him, “Oh, he’s just very intense.” iard had protested this language, saying that
a reporting obligation.” “So you’re saying we kissed but there was it was “false and defamatory,” after which
nothing sexual about it?” I asked Weber. Exeter amended it to say that Weber had
After concluding their investigation, “Correct,” he said. admitted to “hugging and kissing” a student;
Weber said, Exeter officials told him, “ We’ve I felt that I had arrived at another absurd however the beginning of the missive still
decided that you didn’t do anything action- impasse in this situation. said it brought news of “sexual misconduct.”
able, and I had been essentially completely Weber and I sort of tacitly agreed to dis-
exonerated.” agree on our memories of each other. Then When Weber confessed to the alleged
we started speculating about why the acad- hugging and kissing incident in his interview
Weber said he didn’t have any further emy would have come down so hard on him with Catanzano, it was actually around the
dealings with the school’s lawyers until late for an incident that I said never happened same time as the conversation I had with
September 2020, when he got a call from Bar- and he said was not sexual. Rawson in which he gave me no indication
croft: “She said, we have received a complaint “As far as I can tell,” Weber said, “they’re that this investigation was moving forward.
that accuses you of having had an inappro-
priate relationship with a former student.” After he confessed, Weber said, the
Weber said Barcroft never told him any details conversation became “very explicit on an
of this allegation, although she did make clear anatomical level.”
the accusation was coming from a third party.

100 VAN ITY FAIR

“What? Really?” I said. “Oh, my God!” be some kind of training for the adults, the to call it—with a student at the same time,
“[Catanzano] wanted to know precisely staff, to prevent it. It was a big concern of then of course he was not going to turn Mr.
what things…came into contact,” Hilliard mine that sexual abuse be prevented,” she Schubart in. This whole culture of, ‘Let’s just
offered. added, saying that her worries were related have sex with students and we all get away
My heart sped up. It angered me that to her experience with Schubart. with it.’ Do they have any idea how devastat-
even after my denials about an alleged “sex- ing it is to the student?” she went on. “It was
ual relationship,” there had been a lawyer “Mr. Weber knew about it,” she said. very upsetting, this culture of men fucking
interrogating Weber about what contact he I hadn’t brought up Weber’s name; Mor- around with girls, taking advantage of them—
had allegedly made with my then 17-year- gan mentioned him first. Then she told me I was just so upset by it. So I just said, ‘Would
old body. something I didn’t know, something that you please talk to her?’ ”—meaning me.
“I’m just disgusted,” I said, my voice get- hasn’t been made clear in news reports about
ting louder. “It’s not right of him to discuss her case, nor does Weber seem to remember “I can tell you I’m upset right now,” I said
my body with another person in this con- it himself: She said that when we were stu- after a moment. “My body feels bad right
text…. Do you understand how I feel?” dents at Exeter, she had actually told her sister, now.”
I wasn’t sure if the men did understand. Maria, to tell Weber not to report Schubart.
Weber almost defended Catanzano in this “Mr. Weber said [to Maria], ‘Do you want “I’m so sorry,” Morgan said.
regard, saying, “Yes, but he’s been asked to me to report this?’ ” Morgan said. “And Maria But why, I asked, after all these years, had
investigate my behavior.” asked me and I said no. And so he didn’t, she decided to make this allegation? She said
I felt that I had to make it clear to them which, in retrospect, I don’t think was the it was after she’d received an email from Raw-
that, to me, this line of questioning was appropriate approach. I was protective of son that went out to the Exeter community
outrageous. “You’re men,” I said, “so you Mr. Schubart and our relationship…. But Mr. promising the school was doing everything
haven’t grown up in a world in which your Weber should have reported Mr. Schubart. it could to “deal with sexual misconduct.”
body is constantly being commented upon Mr. Schubart should have been turned in…. In an email dated August 24, 2020, Rawson
and talked about. It’s infuriating for a lot of “Quite frankly, Mr. Weber has ruined my announced that criminal charges had been
women to think that here is a man asking life,” Morgan said. “I mean, if he had turned filed against Szczesny Jerzy Kaminski for
another man about her body—my body!— Mr. Schubart in and I had been acknowledged “multiple counts of sexual assault involv-
and he’s talking about my body even after I and all of that stuff before I went off to college, ing a former Exeter student.” The principal
said this conversation should be over!” before I went off into the world….” I recog- further encouraged alumni to “report sexual
I was upset. I could tell that the men nized in her voice the pain that sexual assault misconduct,” saying, “We remain commit-
didn’t really get why. But how could they victims carry with them throughout our lives. ted to investigating any allegations.”
understand completely? They didn’t know “I hate Mr. Weber,” Morgan said, repeating: Searching her emails as we spoke, Morgan
about my sexual assault. They couldn’t see “Mr. Weber never turned Mr. Schubart in.” said she found the one she said she sent to
how for me this was all wrapped up in my I’d told her that I’d decided to do this Christina Palmer on August 24, 2020, con-
feelings about once having been robbed of story because I’d been contacted by Chris- cerning her allegation about Weber and me.
my consent. tina Palmer, who had called me up out of the She said she’d also exchanged emails about
After a moment, Hilliard said, “I’m dis- blue and asked if I had had a sexual relation- this with Holly Barcroft around the same
tressed that they weren’t honest with us ship with Weber when I was at Exeter. I said time. “I never had any contact with Raw-
about what had been alleged or not alleged I didn’t know who had made the allegation, son,” she said.
or denied…. That’s the inexplicable part to which was false. I asked her why she didn’t simply “reach
me—when they have your uncategorical “They won’t tell me who it is,” I said. out to me and say, ‘Look, I heard this. Is it
denial in conjunction with some anonymous There was a pause; then after a bit Morgan true? Would you like to report this?’ Why
third-party report and don’t share that with said: “You may want to hang up on me when didn’t you come to me?”
David and me. The only explanation is that I’m done telling you this. A couple of years “Well, I don’t know,” she said. “I wish
it’s not appropriate.” after we graduated from Exeter”—around I had. Because it never occurred to me,
“What it says to me is they privileged the 1984—“a friend of mine told me that you I guess, because I was focused on David
accusation over your denial,” said Weber. were having a sexual relationship with Mr. Weber. I apologize. Why didn’t I? Because
“Why in the world did they pursue this?” Weber. She found this out.” maybe I thought you would say, ‘What the
asked Hilliard. “She ‘found this out’? How?” I asked. fuck are you talking about? It’s none of your
“I don’t know,” said Morgan. “She and I business.’ ”
I WAS HOPING just to get Morgan’s reaction were good friends and she knew about what “And if I had said that, wouldn’t that be
to what I’d learned about alleged sexual had happened with Mr. Schubart. She said my right?” I asked.
assaults at Exeter in the present day when I that she had heard this.” I told her about my experiences talking
called her in July. “She’d heard it from whom?” I asked. with Palmer, Rawson, the lawyers at Hol-
“I don’t know,” said Morgan. “I have land & Knight, and Weber. “I felt like I was
Over email, Morgan had agreed to talk to no idea.” being treated like a liar by everyone,” I said.
me. We had never spoken before; we hadn’t “I wonder if she’s the person who reported “I felt like no one believed me, and that was
known each other at Exeter except in pass- this,” I mused. upsetting too because it made me think about
ing. The conversation started with her telling “No—I am,” said Morgan. “Because I was how victims are not believed.”
me that, in anticipation of our call, she had so pissed.” “Clearly, I screwed up,” Morgan said. “I’m
looked up her agreement with Exeter—in “Oh, you reported it?” not sure this makes it any better for you, but
2015, she received an undisclosed settlement I was so shocked by this revelation it I didn’t know they would upset you. I just
from the school. took me a moment to understand what she thought they would ask you and you would
was saying. either say yes or no. I honestly just wanted
She said that in her talks with Exeter, “Because I was very upset that Mr. them to talk to Mr. Weber.”
school officials had promised her “they Weber didn’t turn Mr. Schubart in,” Morgan I told her how this all made more sense to
would create a system that would be avail- explained. “The fact that, if Weber had been me now—the decision by the school to punish
able to students to talk about or report any having a relationship—or whatever you want Weber despite my denials—now that I knew
possible sexual abuse and that there would it was she who had made the allegation.

OCTOBER 2021 101

Mr. Weber’s Confession compelled to report…. I want the school to A COUPLE OF weeks later, I got an email from
do the right thing because I know how trau- Rawson responding to the many questions I
“Why?” said Morgan. “I didn’t know I had matizing it is to have this happen and I want had for him, Palmer, and the school’s lawyers
that much sway at Exeter.” it to stop.” about this whole situation. Rawson seemed
convinced that Exeter had handled every-
“They might have wanted to make sure you “We’re on the same page, and I totally thing correctly.
were satisfied with how they dealt with this support you in that,” I said. “We have a lot in
case because Weber failed to report your situ- common. Our lives are parallel in a lot of ways, “My colleagues and I believe we have
ation,” I said. “They might have also thought, so I get you, and I’m not mad at you. I under- followed the thoughtfully conceived pro-
like you did, that Weber must have been hav- stand why you did what you did. I understand tocols for investigating and disclosing
ing a sexual relationship with a student and all of the emotions behind it, I think.” sexual misconduct in the Weber matter,”
that’s why he didn’t report your case. His fail- he wrote. Because “Mr. Weber admitted,
ure to report caused them a lot of problems.” “The last thing I would want to do is hurt with his attorney present, to engaging in
another victim, and I am so ambivalent about conduct with a student that unquestionably
Morgan sighed. “I didn’t want him to be Exeter and a lot of stuff,” Morgan said. We constituted sexual misconduct,” there was
punished,” she said after a while. “I wanted were silent a moment and then she said, “I no other choice of action. But, he added,
the academy to deal with their system that really actually don’t give a shit about Exeter.” “that does not keep us from sincerely regret-
covers up the abuse of girls. I wanted them ting the harm you have experienced in that
to put a system in place where teachers are We laughed. And then we decided that process.” n
the next time we’re in each other’s city, we’re
going to get together for a beer.

Roast the Runway I thought about 2016, when venture capitalist “Dolce & Gabbana is pursuing this claim
Peter Thiel financed Hulk Hogan’s invasion against the Diet Prada Instagram account
C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 9 7 Liu also noted, of privacy lawsuit against Gawker Media, because the account has defamed our com-
“I haven’t really seen many BIPOC figures which ultimately bankrupted the company. pany on several occasions in a manner that
speaking of ‘cancel culture’ the way I see (I have worked at Gawker.) At the time, a consequently significantly and directly
conservatives or right-wing media.” vocal contingent of free-speech advocates impacted our commercial performance,”
and media professionals seemed to take up said a Dolce & Gabbana spokesperson. “We
“They’re millennials,” Scafidi said of her the case as a cause célèbre: “Gawker Smeared intend to present compelling evidence to this
clients’ dispositions, “and therefore, I think, Me, and Yet I Stand With It,” read one New effect, and trust the court to rule according-
they both aspire to live their ideals rather York Times opinion column headline. So ly. We are defending the livelihoods of our
than simply plotting a career path.” where’s the outrage for Diet Prada? Yes, there many employees across the world as well as
are good reasons why a civil trial in a camera- our self-respect and reputation.”
Jilleen Liao, a shoe designer who oper- friendly American courtroom grabbed more
ates the social justice–minded Instagram headlines than an overseas lawsuit filed in a Truth is an absolute defense against defa-
account @heavydiscussion (42,800 fol- foreign language during COVID. And though mation in the United States, but not in Italy.
lowers), argued that discomfort with Diet Diet Prada is no longer a niche fashion prod- Truthfulness is one of three criteria that
Prada’s ideals drives the backlash against uct, woke pop-culture Instagram accounts, as define non-defamatory speech; the other
them. She described critics using Diet Prada a genre, may be a leap too far for mainstream two are social utility and restraint, or con-
op-ed authors—but too close to home for a tinenza. Paola Rosa, the coordinator of OBC
as “some kind of adversarial scapegoat, or smaller population of fashion-industry prog- Transeuropa’s Media Freedom Resource
nosticators. (Diet Prada has criticized Condé Centre, explained that continenza is about
cancel-culture boogeyman, to institutional Nast, the company that owns Vanity Fair.) tone. Insulting language, exaggeration, and
even the position of a story on a newspa-
denial and lack of structural change.” Liao But I suspect that the mixed response per’s page can affect judgments of restraint.
to Diet Prada’s plight is also about how the Dolce & Gabbana’s lawsuit lists a number
criticized Diet Prada’s detractors for caring fault lines of free speech, the media, and righ- of insufficiently restrained insults—some of
teousness have shifted. Diet Prada is Liu and which Diet Prada shared but did not write—
more about “canceling” Diet Prada than Schuyler’s profession, but it occupies an arena including calling Gabbana racist, bigoted,
of public discourse where professional norms misogynistic, homophobic, and a “butthurt
fixing the problems it calls out—the same and alliances are still being defined. Online three-year-old girl.”
criticism I often heard lobbed at Diet Prada defamation law is an evolving and hotly con-
from the other direction. Which criticism tested subject. Similar debates are roiling in Washington Post fashion critic Robin
counts as constructive and which does not Italy, which has civil and criminal laws against Givhan drew a parallel between continenza
is apparently as debatable as everything else defamation. For those who publicly enrage and fashion: “It’s not just what was said, but
the rich, Italy can be a tough place. it’s how it was said. And to me that seems
Diet Prada does. Even Diet Prada’s most like a fashion sensibility would grasp on to
ardent defenders tend to add caveats. “You “I KNOW NOT EVERYBODY likes them,” said that. Because so often, designs are not the
lawyer Marco Amorese, the Bergamo-based reinvention of the wheel. It’s the same thing
can think what you want about Diet Prada lawyer who leads the Italian half of Diet Pra- that someone else has done, or essentially
da’s legal team. But when Scafidi told him the same thing that someone else has said,
and cancel culture,” Susie Lau prefaced an about the case, he realized that the issues it’s just the manner in which you say it, the
tapped into a subject of heated debate in Italy spin that you put on it.”
Instagram post condemning Dolce & Gab- and across Europe: strategic lawsuits against
bana, whom she notes once made news by public participation, known as SLAPPs. Or as Diet Prada’s lawyers argue its tone fits
seating fashion bloggers in the front row. Scafidi said of the lawsuit: “The goal, above “the communications culture of fashion
all, is to silence them.” [which] has always been characterized by
When I started researching this story, I excesses, by provocative combinations, by
expected to see more statements like Lau’s. mischievous insinuations, so much so that

102 VAN ITY FAIR

the Dolce & Gabbana brand itself has largely moment they get this judgment, they can Italian newspapers in 2000. They said they’d
exploited this semantic level over the years.” translate it in all the languages of the world, granted one specifically to promote tolerance
To prove this, they list the meanest things and they can post it.” for homosexuality, but came away with some
Gabbana’s Instagram account has posted, of their earliest accusations of homophobia
including comments calling the Kardashi- NEARLY THREE YEARS LATER, Diet Prada’s for statements rejecting gay marriage and
ans “the most cheap people in the world,” #DGTheShitShow posts remain on Insta- criticizing gay pride celebrations. Thus
taunting body-positivity advocates for pre- gram, and Liu and Schuyler continue apace began a tradition of provocative candor that
ferring to be “fat and full of cholesterol???,” with callouts, LOLs, gossip, and Miuccia modern audiences might call problematic.
and retorting, in 2017, to critics of his brand’s Prada worship. Describing the last two years, The lawsuit against Diet Prada argues that
#DGLovesNaples campaign: “I will no lon- Liu said, “The lawsuit was absurd then as it characterizing Gabbana as “homophobic”
ger come to Naples to advertise to you, ugly is now, but we work so much that there was is inaccurate.
people, you are the disgust of Italy.” always enough going on to distract us from
the reality of it.” The duo’s stubborn righ- After two decades as romantic part-
The defense also argues that Italy is the teousness also seems to power them. Said ners, Dolce and Gabbana broke up in 2001.
wrong jurisdiction for the case, since Liu and Schuyler: “We were doing what we saw as “There was a lot of pain when we split,”
Schuyler posted from New York. the right thing and speaking out against rac- Gabbana later told the U.K. Times. “We
ism, so for our business to be threatened, in a broke our romantic relationship, but we
“It’s a beautiful defense, but it’s simply not very real way, for that feels like a direct effect continued to work together. Even now we
suitable for an Italian court,” said Professor of the supremacist system we are ultimately can’t explain how we did it.” “I don’t think
Annalisa Ciampi, who teaches internation- speaking out against.” marriages get any closer than what they
al law at the University of Verona and is an have,” said Christina Binkley. Just as Dolce
attorney at law and ambassador for the Euro- Or maybe they know what several lawyers did not distance himself from Gabbana dur-
pean Network for Women Excellence. Italian told me: Even if an Italian judge rules against ing #DGTheShitShow, Binkley observed,
law does not have forum non conveniens, Liu and Schuyler, any financial penalties will when Dolce once drew public outrage for
meaning that Italian judges have less latitude likely be unenforceable. If Liu and Schuyler’s negative comments about gay parenting,
on issues of jurisdiction. Dolce & Gabbana’s assets are in the United States, said Ciampi, Stefano Gabbana “just went down in flames
bank accounts are in Italy, which means then enforcing a civil ruling against them with Domenico because that’s what you do,
most of the alleged damages took place in would require cooperation from an Ameri- right? You support your business partner,
Italy, and Ciampi thinks that’s enough for the can judge. Their lawyers could then trot out your friend.”
case to proceed. Ciampi also believes that the the same jurisdiction arguments that Ciampi
defense invoking Gabbana’s worst speech described as too American—and it could That sense of loyalty reminded me of,
acts could backfire by suggesting that both work. Professor Linda Silberman, who teach- well, Diet Prada. To state the obvious: Liu
Diet Prada and its subject lacked restraint. es at NYU School of Law and is the codirector and Schuyler have never been a romantic
of the Center for Transnational Litigation, couple, and their names do not appear in a
But even if the judge rules in Dolce & Arbitration, and Commercial Law, agreed. If logo that is in millions of closets. But Schuy-
Gabbana’s favor, “the claim for damages is a foreign judgment violates American public ler was asleep when #DGTheShitShow went
beyond me,” said Ciampi. Proving a causal policy, an American judge will not enforce it. down. Her first statement about the lawsuit,
link between Liu and Schuyler’s actions That includes policies on jurisdiction as well posted on the Fashion Law Institute’s website,
and Dolce & Gabbana’s bottom line will as free speech, including a 2010 law against identified Schuyler as “an ally to my Asian
be extremely difficult. But Ciampi pointed so-called libel tourism. friends” and decried attacks on free speech
out that Dolce & Gabbana’s lawyers at the as “a slippery slope toward extremism.” Diet
white-shoe law firm Cleary Gottlieb must Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana Prada posts do not have bylines, but Liu wrote
know that. They must also know that Liu denied Vanity Fair’s requests for interviews, about how personal the Great Show’s demise
and Schuyler don’t have this kind of money. which was not surprising. Though out- felt to him. Yet Diet Prada remains a shared
“They might just want to make the point,” spoken, the pair tend to be selective about project, and its founders’ fates remain united.
Ciampi speculated, noting that Italian civil where they demonstrate that trait. After Throughout our correspondence, Liu and
judgments are public, which may itself be a an Italian magazine “inadvertently outed” Schuyler marked each statement “Tony” or
form of redress. them as a couple in the ’80s, writes Profes- “Lindsey” to denote who said what. But when
sor Derek Duncan in Reading and Writing I asked what they would do if the lawsuit was
“You get the publication of the judgment, Italian Homosexuality, Dolce and Gabbana dismissed, they replied as one: “Post about it
which recognizes that your reputation was came out willingly in interviews with two on Instagram.” n
offended, so that is going to be some form
of reparation,” Ciampi explained. “The

VANITY FAIR IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. IN BOTH THE U.S. AND THE U.K.
THE U.K. EDITION IS PUBLISHED BY THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD. UNDER LICENSE.

COPYRIGHT © 2021 BY THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD., VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S IJU. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PRINTED AT WALSTEAD ROCHE.

Vanity Fair October 2021, No. 732. The magazine is published monthly (except a combined issue in July/August and December/Holiday) by The Condé Nast Publications Ltd.,
Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (telephone: 020 7499 9080).

SUBSCRIPTIONS rates include delivery and digital editions. Full rates are £49.90 for one year in the UK, £79 for the rest of the world. To place your order, call +44 (0)1858 438 819. Special offers
and exclusive promotions are published in this issue or online at vanityfair.co.uk. To manage your subscription, log onto www.magazineboutique.co.uk/solo. For enquiries, email [email protected] or

mail to Vanity Fair, Subscriptions Department, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, LE16 9EF, UK.

VANITY FAIR is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, or transparencies), or any
other unsolicited materials. Those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by Vanity Fair in writing.

Manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed overnight-delivery return envelope, postage prepaid. The paper used for this publication is
based on renewable wood fibre. The wood these fibres are derived from is sourced from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. The producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according

to highest environmental and health and safety standards. This magazine is fully recyclable—please log on to www.recyclenow.com for your local recycling options for paper and board.

TO FIND CONDÉ NAST MAGAZINES ONLINE, VISIT www.condenet.co.uk; TO FIND VANITY FAIR, VISIT www.vanityfair.co.uk.

OCTOBER 2021 103

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

À La Mode

didi agha Leis sWiM MyraCLe

Didi Agha Collections is a LEIS SWIM is a luxury Myracle is a handmade-
female-owned brand beachwear brand to-order knit & crochet-
providing luxury swim and founded by designer wear brand for
resort wear for women. A Heidi Leis. The boutique’s sustainable wardrobes
Dubai-based company luxe capsule collections that aims to support slow
with production in the are designed to fit and fashion, fair
United Arab Emirates, the celebrate every woman. manufacturing,
luxury swimsuits are Heidi was inspired by her sustainable materials and
perfect for a quick swim travels and a passion to women’s economic
at a summer resort. They create beautiful, fashion independence. Myracle
combine elegance with forward yet classic directly works with
luxury cover ups for yacht pieces. An ethically- women in order to deliver
cruises and memorable created brand with an high-quality and super
summer holidays. Get emphasis on comfy hand-knitted and crocheted clothes
ready to turns heads sustainability, hand-sewn made from environment-friendly fine yarns to
wherever you go with unique designs that will using fine recycled stretch fabric. Visit you. For more, visit themyracle.com and follow
never let you go unnoticed. Visit didiagha.com leisswimcollection.com and follow @leisswim @myraclehandmade on IG to shop the
IG: @didiaghaofficial on IG. Photographer: Ashlee Huff. full collection.

gigLiO tigratO LeuMas s.t. LiV & Light

Reinvent, reuse and reduce. Jakarta, founder of Leumas S.T. is pushing to
Giglio Tigrato is a brand from normalise luxury while building an e-commerce
Milan, born in September
2020 with the aim of bringing brand. Their uniquely named lineup includes
change to the fashion their Love pump and Light sandal, embedded
industry. Taking inspiration
from Japanese culture and with tactful logo features. The company is
from native tribe symbolism, emerging custom options, and also offer
Giglio presents their Made in memberships through their Orange VIP Crew
Italy collections, re-using (OVC) program. Erik Revills Photography.
deadstock from other brands’
overproduction. They see Visit leumasst.com IG: @leumasst
craftsmanship, vintage,
sustainability and art as
four mainstays to change
the consumer’s mentality.
Visit gigliotigrato.com IG: @gigliotigrrrato

MiLa J & CO

Mila J & Co creates beautifully-curated Liv & Light is an African label with its
purposeful designs inspired by a lifelong foundations firmly rooted in the upskilling and
passion for yoga, nature and sacred empowerment of South African women. The
geometry. With a high waistband that gentle, neutral-toned garments place emphasis
doesn’t roll down and just enough Spandex
to let you move without distorting the print on slow, earth-conscious fashion while the
or becoming see-through, Mila J & Co timeless designs allow for each piece to be worn
leggings hit the sweet spot between season after season. Photo by Ayeh Khalatbari
support and comfort.
featuring Faith Johnson. Visit them at
Visit milajandco.com IG: @milajandco livandlight.com IG: @livandlight

aLeXander May

ALEXANDER MAY; The horological
answer to Norwegian design and Swiss
craftsmanship. Based in Norway, a band

of physicians and brothers with a
common interest in several fields
including the world-renowned smart-wear
brand, Votwear have recently taken their
interest in horology to new heights.
Focusing on quality over quantity,
ALEXANDER MAY is helping to carve
Norway into horological history.

Visit alexandermaywatches.com
IG: @alexandermaywatches

Photography: @pixel__co

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

aV sunglasses la Femme roje Bute Couture

aV sunglasses and La Femme roje is a Bute Couture combines
More represents the Vancouer-based sustainable practices
stylish way of vegan fashion brand, with luxurious results.
expressing yourself encouraging each bag is unique and
through a wide range customers to make made with remnants
of accessories. more ethical fashion from the furniture
everyday eyewear, choices by producing industry. Bute
classic or adventurous simple and practical Couture’s mission is to
sunnies and colourful clothing, along with empower women, and
iphone cases are some statement 10% of retail sales are
of the identity-goods accessories that can donated to
that you can choose elevate any simple organisations helping
to make the difference. look into a unique and women that are victims
aV aims to help you outstanding one. of domestic violence.
make more confident photo by weu.studio. Visit butecouture.com
choices in life, Visit and follow
starting from your everyday outfit. lafemmeroje.com @butecouture on Ig.
Visit avsunglasses.com Ig: @av_sunglasses and follow @lafemmeroje on Ig.

BallBag Ko sWim HaWaii Cotton&Wool

BaLLBag is Ko swim hawaii CoTTon&WooL is a
completely handmade, creates ethically- european brand of
made in Italy with fine made, eco-conscious clothing and
finishes and carefully luxury designer accessories made from
chosen materials. They swimwear and 100% natural materials.
are created by Maria apparel. Designed The entire production
Teresa Del Meglio by and made in Maui, cycle takes place in
transforming a simple hawaii and europe: designed in
ball into an established in 2014, germany and made in
extraordinarily unique Crystal adair-pitts portugal. The summer
luxury bag. In the creates seamless chic collection is created
image “amorini”, a cuts with buttery- from organic cotton
tribute to love, the soft luxe fabrics and with gots and oeko-Tex
greedy are ready to culturally-influenced certificates. The brand
hurl their love darts. prints in every supports slow fashion
Includes a golden logo collection, designed and fair trade.
and fine satin lining. Follow @bvllbag on Ig or to fit every woman. photo by Kao saephanh. Visit cottonwool.de
visit bvllbag.com Visit koswimhawaii.com Ig: @koswimhawaii Ig @cotton.n.wool

annagail XetKo gael Hunault To appear on These pages, ConTaCT [email protected] or CaLL 020 7499 9080 x 3705

annagail is an inclusive xetko is a
in house fashion label streetwear
founded and designed brand,
by Canadian angelique recently
Yuen to honour and revealing
celebrate women. their 4-5
annagail focuses on Collection. pictured is
natural fabrics for every the BMW e30 T-shirt
shape and size and is which features a relaxed
available worldwide. fit and unique design on
Model: Chaylene Liddell both the front and back.
in the Ball Cap, anna They offer worldwide
Linen Trousers and shipping. Visit xetko.com Ig: @xetko_
Joan Linen Top.
Visit annagail.ca or on
Ig @annagailbrand
photography:
Melissa hopfner.

nemesis Brand roaK apparel French multi-award winning couturier gael
hunault is synonymous with timeless, upcycled
Designed and made Woman-owned, founded, creations that make a spirited statement, day or
in spain, nemesis and operated, roak
Brand is committed apparel is an night. The nostalgic fabrics they bring to life
to sustainability, eco-conscious, size- become a luxurious tapestry of unique,
using only the inclusive brand made in
highest quality nYC. Conceptualised in handmade designs that weave the vibrancy of
materials to north Carolina and the past into a bold, brighter, eco-forward future.
showcase their inspired by nature, their
simple yet unique first capsule collection Visit gael-hunault.com Follow on
designs. Their nods to the mountains, Ig: @gael_hunault
capsule collection, showcasing earthy
designed for the colours and asymmetrical
modern woman, is details. The second
inspired by the collection features lighter
elegance and purity of galician geography, colours, stemming from
creating total harmony between the female calming lavender fields. Visit roakapparel.com
figure and the garment. Visit nemesisbrand.com and follow @roakapparel on Ig.
and follow @nemesisbrand_official on Ig. photographer: Monika Lis.

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

Works Like A Charm

1 2 1. arVino jewellery is the creation of a new world for the contemporary woman who is
style-conscious, independent, and unapologetically herself. The Starlet Molten Pearl Hoops are from

their Pearl: Drops of Ocean collection. Pair with their Starlet Pearl Earcuff to create the ultimate
stacked style impact. 18-carat gold vermeil plating. Visit arvino.co IG: @arvino_co

2. This stunning, high-polished ID-necklace from Zoe HooP, has a sleek and contemporary vibe, hand
made from recycled silver and covered with a thick layer of 18K Gold. Feel inspired by its engraving from

Jeremiah 29:11. “I know the plans I have in mind for you; they are plans for peace; not disaster; to give

you a future filled with hope.” Visit zoehoopjewelry.com and follow @zoehoopjewelry on IG.

3. Founded in 1987 in Greece, KallioPe is a company that designs and markets handmade fine
contemporary jewellery. The founders and designers, George and Kalliope, mix classic techniques with
3 unconventional materials and innovative ideas, putting their signature in each and every one of their

designs. Alongside their workshop, the brand shop and the headquarters are based in Athens,

Greece. Visit kalliopejewelry.com IG: @kalliope.jewelry

4 4. Portuguese designer Beatriz Letras Vivas launched her handmade jewellery brand
Bali By Bea for charming, elegant and powerful women. Each ultra-feminine, dainty design is

made to the highest standards with close attention to detail. The pictured earrings, “Amore”,

are a bright, eye-catching look that add a pop of colour to any outfit. Made from natural stone.

Visit balibybea.com or @bali_by_bea on IG.

5. BiniBini uses authentic, ethically-sourced freshwater pearls from the orient seas and
harvested by a small family business in the Philippines, through responsible and sustainable
methods. Their products showcase the stories of ancient Philippine mythology. These statement
earrings aim to attract all eyes. 100% recyclable and compostable packaging. Visit binibini.uk
IG: @binibini.uk

5 6. Discover the Mosaïque Earrings by léa rocHard, in 18-carat rose gold, set with Diamonds,
6 Rhodolite Garnets, Pink Opals and Mother of Pearl. The earrings are light to wear comfortably all day,
and are designed with a single pin to be suitable for ears pierced with only one hole.
Available to order on learochard.com IG: @learochardjewellery

7. jo atelier offers luxurious jewellery staples, basics and statement pieces that are
current and timeless. Designed for the modern woman, who is always on the go,
the brand offers a variety of unique and contemporary pieces that allow
women to develop their own style and express their individuality. Made with
love, with a little rock and roll. Proudly made in Indonesia. Visit joatelier.com

8 and @joatelier_official (IG).

7 8. Created by Alejandra Marquez, tHe trennd is a California based
9 jewellery brand whose philosophy is to provide a variety of high-quality
gold-filled and stainless-steel staple pieces for everyday wear while always
keeping your budget in mind. Whether it’s for a special occasion or a casual
outing, you are sure to find what you are looking for at The Trennd.
Visit shopthetrennd.com IG: @shopthetrennd

9. Inspired by the sea, oceano Pearls presents beautiful, authentic and

uniquely crafted pearl jewellery. Made in Mauritius, their pieces take a

11 contemporary twist on classic pearl jewellery to create pieces suited for
everyday wear and evening sophistication. Pictured is the Paul and Virginie

Necklace. Shop online at oceanopearls.com and follow on IG: @oceanopearls

10. tasHa Felice creates handmade, sculptural jewellery, which appears
different from every angle. Designer, Natasha, combines various precious
10 metals with different materials. Drawing from her creative adolescence,
Natasha’s jewellery replicates the lines of natural and manmade landscapes.

Visit tashafelice.com IG @tashafelice

11. llr studios was founded in Hamburg by sisters Luisa and Lena. The brand
creates luxury, handcrafted designs, embracing a philosophy that brings

contemporary design into harmony with family values. Pictured are the Oval

Creoles, Medium Jade Pendant, and Keshi Pearl from their Mix and Match

collection, all made from recycled silver and gold. Visit llrstudios.com
12 IG @llrstudios

12. elsa MouZaKi jewellery is delicate, flirty and chic. The timeless

13 designs are handcrafted by Elsa Mouzaki, in Greece since 2000. Luxurious but
easy to wear, her designs are made of 18 carat gold plated recycled sterling silver

14 or gold adorned with precious and semi-precious stones. Visit elsamouzaki.com
IG: @elsamouzaki

13. little sKy stone creates jewellery for your everyday style in Columbus, Ohio.
Ethically-sourced from small-scale gem mines that are respectful of culture and its

artisans. Made of 14-carat gold-plated brass, these Giada chunky hoops are hung with jade

15 colour resin donut charms and are lightweight. Visit littleskystone.com IG: @littleskystone

14. Australian brand niQue jewellery specialises in handmade pieces that modern

16 women appreciate. Beyond-rare Australian argyle pink and yellow diamonds
complement two pear white diamonds in Nique Jewellery’s pictured engagement

ring. Their custom pieces can be made in your choice of gold or platinum.

Shipping worldwide. Visit niquejewellery.com IG: @niquejewellery

15. Did someone say “colour”? atelier ZoBel’s latest collection “Over the
Rainbow” by PETER SCHMID presents the magic of Australian opals. Discover the
electric spectrum of blues to greens, the fire of blazing red opals set in gold and

sterling silver, accentuated with colourful diamonds. Extraordinary jewellery for
extraordinary people – discover more at atelierzobel.com and @atelierzobel (IG).

16. Inspired duo Sally and Tara curated the brand salt. Their vibrant and
exciting brand brings ahead-of-the-trend jewellery styles. Their gorgeous

collection is made to order and designed between Toronto and LA and includes

precious metals, diamonds and gemstones. Shop online at saltfinejewelry.com
and IG @saltfinejewelry

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

17. Magnificent choker made of top-quality tourmalines interspersed with 18-carat 19
21
solid gold details. as versatile as it is eye-catching with the quality guarantee of
26
angela galiano jewellery. Follow the firm at @angela__galiano 29

and visit angelagaliano.com 31

18. Karoliina savi is a Finnish textile design artisan and the creative mind behind the 17

brand liinala. she designs and makes all of Liinala’s unique and sustainable jewellery,

art and home decor products by hand. The designs are inspired by handicraft tradition

and northern culture and it’s beautiful nature. For Liinala, ethics, equality, environmental

friendliness and recycling are paramount. Visit liinala.com Ig: @karoliinasavi 18

19. samari emphasise the beauty of raw, elegant gemstones with their intricately crafted

ring designs. With a worldly view at their core, samari’s unique designs are handmade in Te l

aviv from 925 silver in 9k or 14k gold. Visit samari.me and follow on Ig @samari_jewellery

20. elise design Company is an accessory label established by Christa elise 20
that was designed with intention, with handcrafted pieces that blend modern

aesthetic and timeless natural elements for effortless wearability and versatility.

each jewellery piece and product is designed and made in studio from natural

woods, crafted acrylics, and quality metals to provide multi-outfit options and

to encourage slow fashion and embracing one’s personal style.

Visit elisedesigncompany.com and @elisedesigncompany (Ig).

21. Brittney, the creator behind the Freezeland magnolia,

is from rural Virginia. she creates unique polymer clay earrings in small 23
batches. every detail has been carefully curated so that best quality

can be given. Visit thefreezelandmagnolia.com 22

Ig: @thefreezelandmagnolia

22. min jewellery based in Taiwan, is created for the fashion

savvy. Designer Vivian Min’s artistry draws inspiration from her

hometown history and beliefs. To maintain the quality, they create

their fine jewellery using silver from the U.s. and work with an

experienced local casting factory. Visit vivianmin.com 24 25
Ig: @min_jewellery_tw

23. esther allen is a new British luxury ethical jewellery brand,

designing simple, contemporary necklaces using solid Fairtrade gold.

The initial collection of five pieces compliment each other and are

perfect for layering, with each necklace hand finished in

esther’s studio. shop the unique pieces at estherallen.co.uk

and follow on Ig @estherallenjewellery

24. Drawing inspiration from the beauty of the ocean, amy

jenniFer jewellery creates alternative bridal ring sets

using stunning rainbow opals with endless colours inside. each 28

opal is hand-selected to be used in a bespoke ring design and

treasured for a lifetime. Visit amyjenniferjewellery.com

Ig: @amyjennifer.jewellery

25. Fine, handcrafted, one of a kind statement pieces by mii sassy

offer fun, bold and bright accessories. Infused with Indo-Trinidadian

accents, The secret garden collection is an eye-catching and eclectic

mix of beautiful beaded necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Founder and

designer Cavesha rampersad designs each style with the focus on

accentuating the uniqueness that lies within us all. Visit miisassy.com 27 To appear on These pages, ConTaCT [email protected] or CaLL 020 7499 9080 x 3705

Ig: @mii_sassy

26. Áureo london is a new, UK-based brand which aims to offer

jewellery that elevates and highlights your beauty. Launched by a

London based entrepreneur from her desire to find jewellery that is

contemporary and timeless, they carefully select fine metals

to make sure their jewellery is tarnish-free and water-resistant. 30

Visit aureolondon.co.uk Ig: @aureolondon

27. sustainable accessories by Kelley hollis are fantastically

bold, intricate and dramatic designs. her beautifully hand-crafted

pieces are created using vintage components and upcycled 22 carat

gold and silver. pictured is the stunning and unique octopus pearl ring.

Custom pieces available on commission. Visit kelleyhollisjewelry.com

Ig: @kelleyhollis

28. Bellasol is all about versatility and making a statement for the everyday

modern woman. They specialise in minimalistic-style pieces and offer top-tier

quality, with 18-carat gold plated and 14-carat gold-filled jewellery.

pictured are their “elegante” hoops. Visit shopbellasol.com

and follow @shopbellasol on Ig. 32

29. Filigree Fine jewels are a bespoke new Zealand jewellers

specialising in coloured stone and diamond rings. This handmade full

platinum ring is set with 6.44-carat princess cut parti sapphire. The

bevelled edge surround and undersetting are grain set with brilliant cut

diamonds 0.64-carat TDW D-F Vs/sI. stones are defined by their inherent

natural beauty and enhanced in design by Filigree. Visit: filigree.co.nz

or follow on Ig: @filigreefinejewels

30. meaden master jewellers are award-winning experts in creating bespoke luxury fine jewellery,

dedicated to the pursuit of perfection. Their vision is to harness the eternal emotional power surrounding the

diamond. The new ‘Trillionaire’ ring features a 5-carat cushion cut centre and a pair of 1-carat each trillion cut

sides. Total Diamond Weight over 7-carats. prices on application. Visit garymeaden.nz

Ig: @garymeadenmasterjeweller

31. indi City stands as a mindful adornment to acknowledge their ancestors, the boreal forest and the 33
Canadian prairies. They create authentic Indigenous fashion accessories for everyone to wear!

Visit indicity.ca and @indi_city (Ig).

32. tranquillity seamlessly couples mindfulness with contemporary style. Their sterling silver rings

subtly help the wearer to diffuse daily anxieties with their discrete moveable features. striking yet soothing,

each ring is designed to bring the wearer back into the present moment wherever they are.

shop online at findtranquillity.co.uk and Ig @tranquillityrings

33. The adjustable emerald Diamond rain ring from the Dewdrop Collection by alKemeya jewels is set

in 14-carat solid gold and features various shapes of emerald stones and brilliant diamonds. The Diamond is

regarded as a stone of exceptional spiritual power, while the emerald is said to help the wearer see things

clearly and rationally and encourage meditation and reflection. see more at alkemeya.com

or follow on Ig: @alkemeya

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

The Beauty Edit

1 2 1. Fall in love with Australia’s award-winning multi-purpose All Over Balm
by Pod organics. It contains blue tansy, calendula oil, candelilla wax

and seabuckthorne fruit. All Over Balm is designed to help sensitive,

damaged and delicate skin feel soothed and refreshed.

Breastfeeding and pregnancy safe, lavender free, cruelty free

and vegan friendly. Visit podorganics.com.au

IG: @podorganics

2. cHeri Mai sKincare offers a holistic alternative to

3 maintaining healthy feeling skin. Their products are formulated
with pure essential oils and active botanical base ingredients.

Their Antioxidant Protecting Serum helps to leave your skin feeling moisturised and

firm. It can be applied once or twice a day. Visit

cherimaiskincare.ca IG: @cherimaiskincare

3. d’aVoire. Fall in love with this luxurious Vitamin A and coconut cleansing bar. Aimed at
creating a radiant looking complexion, this cleanser helps to reduce the appearance of fine
lines and reveal the look of bright and glowing skin. Ethically sourced, environmentally

friendly, vegan and cruelty free. Visit davoire.com and IG @davoire_skin

4. Where luxury meets sustainability. PêcHe’s Dermaplaning kit is made from wheat straw
and is designed to help exfoliate and maximise your skincare products and makeup

application. After four uses, they can be decomposed and used as fertiliser. Perfect your
canvas at thepeche.com.au and follow @theepechee on IG.

5. sHe sKin body. She’s Polished is a 2-in-1 salt scrub and a body butter that nourishes
dry skin with moisture. It contains a mix of essentials oils, aloe butter, kaolin clay and pink

Himalayan salt. This scrub is perfect for the areas that need extra attention: legs, elbows,

knees and feet. Visit sheskinbody.com IG: @sheskinbody

6 6. The dL.Md liquid daily multivitamin supplement is formulated with 13 vitamins,
5 minerals and 1 bioflavonoid complex. Lightly flavoured with a natural raspberry
4 5
flavouring, it can be taken on its own or mixed with water. It aims to help you feel

energised, have glowing skin, and get hair that feels healthy. Visit thedlmd.com

IG: @thedlmd

7. Introducing the dermatologically tested bobou Velluto Range Make Up
Brush Set. Designed with sensitive skin in mind, this gorgeous collection of
brushes includes Dermafibre™ Technology and a super soft and dense finish.
All brushes include an easy to wash luxurious velvet handle for an effortless
grip. RRP £120, visit boboubeauty.com and IG @boboubeauty

7 8. beLLureLLe’s mission is to demonstrate the skin’s natural needs can be
8 restored and maintained without using harmful chemicals. Their products are
100% natural, and not tested on animals. Bellurelle’s soul purpose is to help
10 people feel beautiful naturally, while simultaneously implementing efforts to
save the environment with recyclable packaging. Visit bellurelle.com and
11
IG @bellurelle
9 9. Konjo beauty’s Shea Butter is extracted from the nuts of the

Shea-Karite tree only found on the continent of Africa. It contains
Vitamins A, E and F. This product helps to leave your skin feeling
moisturised and soothed. Purchase at konjobeauty.com and
follow on IG @konjobeauty

10. This Maldivian tropical luxury brand harnesses generations
of the island’s best kept beauty secrets, offering products to
every sun-loving and island-hopping soul out there.
Paradise sKin Sun Rescue Deep Sea Hydration Mask is packed
with deep-sea bacteria (Alteromonas Macleodii) extracted from 600

metres in the ocean, brown seaweed and hyaluronic acid.
12 Visit paradiseskin.com and follow @paradiseskin on IG.

11. ca beauty’s cruelty-free formula has been curated for
lips that feel luscious and luxurious. CA Beauty’s gloss
delivers a long-lasting visible shine and a high pigment that
will have you wanting more. The brand believes in simplistic
makeup and redefining beauty in a way that makes you feel
your most beautiful self. Visit shopcabeauty.com
IG: @cabeautyla

12. K KLass beauty is a luxury, quality, beauty brand
presenting beauty in all forms and shades. They specialise in
making luxury a lifestyle that all can indulge in through
makeup. This line of specialty, cruelty-free lip glosses puts a
brand new experience of what nude means. View today at

kklassbeauty.com and follow @kklassbeauty on IG.

13. aie 202 Scrub&Beyond Kit is here to help you. It is
truly multipurpose, featuring aie 023 Bio-Carbon, 024
13 Balm and aie 025 Oil. Mixing all these products together
14 gives you a mask, scrub or rich cream. Enjoy skin that feels
clean, energised and nourished with moisture.
Visit aiecosmetics.com and follow @aiecosmetics on IG.

15 14. Made with fully compostable plant based glitter, Wiggy
starLust is an innovation in sustainable beauty. This easy to

use formula adheres to skin making it a must have for any glitter

enthusiast. Each sale benefits Ocean Conservancy.

Visit wiggystarlust.com and follow @wiggystarlust on IG.

15. ebeness. The Ultimate Regenerating Face Cream For Her
and For Him. Fiji water meets hyaluronic acid, acai oil, rosehip

oil, vitamins and cupuaçu butter. With a melt-away texture, this

is the perfect elixir for your daily skincare routine. Get 25% off

with promo code ‘vanity’ (expires 14/10/21). Visit ebeness.com
and follow @ebenessbeauty on IG.

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

16. Best, PeriOdt. makes periods feel comfortable and cool. This high-capacity, 16 17
Us-made and obgyn-recommended menstrual cup helps you to forget that you
are on ‘that time of the month’. Use the code ‘VanITY’ for 10% off, expires 22
14/10/2021. Visit bestperiodt.com and Ig @best.periodt 24

17. naturaLia Beauty combines nature and biotechnology, is 100% made in Italy 19
and created with the aim of enhancing your natural beauty. soft Touch Daily Cream 21

helps to reduce the appearance of redness and leaves your skin feeling hydrated. Visit

naturaliabeauty.co.uk and follow @naturaliabeautyuk on Ig. Use the code VanITY25 for
25% off (expires 14/10/21).

18. tanncO’s brilliant new product helps to stop self tan transferring onto

your bedding. Its lightweight fabric is soft to the touch, oozing comfort.

not only that, but cover ticks the sustainability box as it can be re-used

multiple times. To purchase yours visit tannco.co.uk and 18
follow @tannco_official on Ig.

19. With a blend of responsibly sourced ingredients and packaged with an 20
easy spray-on nozzle, Zeke skincare’s hydration Mist is designed to
simplify daily skincare routines for any age and skin type. It is free from

oil and soap, and aims to infuse skin with vitamins and nutrients.

Visit zekeskincare.co.nz Ig: @zekeskincare

20. Beauty engine shower oil is inspired by nature for the natural rhythms of
our bodies. The main ingredients are almond oil and Manuka honey Mgo 100.

This oil helps to leave your skin feeling protected, soothed and hydrated, without
the use of harmful chemicals. Visit beautyengine.co.nz Ig: @beautyenginenz

21. Beauty tech just got personal! OLura is a professional level skincare routine
that combines the eno all-in-one facial device and a Treatment serum custom
blended for your skin. enjoy smoother looking and firmer feeling skin with olura.
Visit olura.us and follow @oluraskincare on Ig.

22. skin amity’s “Multi” Body Krēm is your friendly vegan multi-body lotion.
This product helps target the appearance of pigmentation and uneven skin tone and aims

to leave your skin feeling hydrated. products closely tested by the owner. Visit skinamity.com and
follow @skinamity on Ig.

23. Vegan & cruelty-free, igLammed uP cOsmetics brings you luxury, affordable, high 23
quality cosmetics. Their Lip appeal Liquid Lipsticks have a matte finish allowing you to enjoy

your day without the worry of having to re-apply often. Find these and a full line of products at

iglammedupcosmetics.com and Ig @iglammed_up

24. handcrafted in atlanta, georgia, BeautyHaPPinessHeaLing LLc creates plant-based
skincare for dry, dull, and acne-prone skin. With a range of products that help to elevate your

skincare, their mission is to break the barriers that interfere with self-care, and being present.

Their products are vegan and cruelty-free to provide a full self-care experience from beginning

to end. Use the code ‘VFBhh’ for 10% off, expires 01/10/22. shop at bhhveganskincare.com
and Ig @beauty.happiness.healing_llc

Vanity Fair’s Shortlist

1. cat’s candLes is a female-run small business with one goal in mind: 1 2 3 To appear on These pages, ConTaCT [email protected] or CaLL 020 7499 9080 x 3705
providing high quality, affordable, and sustainably packaged soy wax candles
5
that are handmade in glasgow. The alba Collection is inspired by scotland, 7
9
combining exquisite natural fragrances with the charm of gaelic traditions and

language. Visit cats-candles.com and follow @cats_candlesx on Ig.

2. mereLy me is a Canadian retailer with a passion for unique individual style

and accessories for your little ones. They are all about natural organic and

quality products of style and durability. This shop is about ensuring your little

me is able to be unique, fashionable and ‘merely’ themselves. Visit merelyme.ca

Ig: @merelyme.ca

3. sPases is a real appreciation for african heritage with a minimal twist. Their

collection of handmade products is a love for all things natural, minimal and

african. They incorporate various african cultures, from mud cloth from Mail, a

Baule collection from the Ivory Coast to the beautiful textiles and items from

Morocco. They believe in celebrating design in africa by africans. Visit spases.net 4
Ig @shop_spases

4. HOme OF meraki creates stunning statement candles, fragrant wax melts and

luxury gift sets. The beautiful scents evoke lovely memories, provide comfort, and help

to prioritise self-care. all products are vegan, hand-poured and have a luxurious feel yet

are affordable. Their packaging is either recyclable, reusable, or biodegradable.

Visit homeofmeraki.co.uk Ig @homeofmeraki_uk

5. JOeLLa PuP Patisserie an australian dog bakery for the pampered pooch.

organic, delicious, fun, insta-worthy treats that are natural. Joella is the home of unique

creations like Unicorn poop™ and custom breed cookies. Visit joellapup.com and follow 6

@joellapuppatisserie on Ig.

6. BLOOm & dice represent elegance in a jar, and their customers have dubbed them

the epitome of luxury and style. The house of Bloom & Dice evokes prestige, a

commitment to depth and beauty that love has to offer. each candle carries a story that

urges you to embark on your own journey towards love. Visit bloomanddice.com and

follow @bloomanddice on Ig.

7. gaia sHOres is a luxury home fragrance company combining British prowess with

Italian charm. They aim to stimulate memories of destinations and peaceful sensations,

making a candle or reed diffuser much more than an object in your home. Visit

gaiashores.com Ig: @gaiashores 8
8 . neutraL sHade’s hand-designed curated collection of rattan decor incorporates

natural elements and modern design. The harbour Chair is sure to add beautiful texture and

classic nostalgia; bringing in natural elements from the outdoors. Visit neutralshade.com

to explore the range of rattan furniture and follow @neutral.shade on Ig.

9. ruFFLe & raBBit prides itself in delivering high quality fashion pieces that have

earned them the respect of parents across the globe. The shop’s motto is that “your

children deserve the best and we are devoted in our efforts to dress them in the best.”

photo by @everbloom.photography. Visit the store at ruffleandrabbit.com

or on Ig @ruffle_and_rabbit

Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

Vanity Fair’s Shortlist

10 11 10. Carly’s Candle Company offers sustainably sourced, refillable and toxin-free candles, reed
diffusers, wax melts and gift sets, designed to help relax, soothe and energise your home and mind.

All products are lovingly hand-poured in Buckinghamshire UK, with an eco-conscious and

vegan-friendly ethos. Visit carlyscandlecompany.co.uk IG: @_carlys_candle_company_

11. raquel rosalie Jewelry is a high quality, hand curated brand. Raquel strives to deliver
excellence by seamlessly mixing durability and high quality at an affordable price. See the one of a

kind hand metal smithed pieces made by Raquel herself at raquelrosalie.com or browse her
collection on IG @raquelrosalie

12. petinKa Learning Tower with Variable Activity Board is a functional and variable piece of

furniture that is designed for the development of children and to help parents. It allows children to

12 13 assist independently, mainly in the kitchen. The Petinka Learning Tower
is also equipped with a Ready-to-Activity Board to which educational

Petinka wooden toys can be added. Visit petinka.com

IG: @petinka_furniture

13. naso Candles turn joyful, peaceful and creative moments into
beautiful pieces for your home. They handcraft eco-friendly soy candles,
14 made with luxury fragrances and essential oils. Proceeds go towards

people empowerment projects through their iEMPOW3R community

initiative. Shop exclusively at nasocandles.com and join them on
IG @naso_candles

14. Seeking to bring you moments of peace and relaxation, aaram lux
creates beautiful and unique handmade candles and concrete

15 16 pieces to make perfect decorative additions in any home.
Shop at aaramlux.com and follow @aaramlux on IG for more.

18 15. atom studios create beautifully sustainable tech and
17 lifestyle accessories to compliment your style. Their use of
sophisticated colours, clever design and unexpected materials
make atom studios a brand to watch out for. Shop the range of
phone cases, AirPods Pro cases and innovative tangle-free
charging cables at atomstudios.com or visit
@atom_studios_official on IG to find out more.

16. Kollo is a premium liquid marine collagen supplement that
contributes towards healthier looking skin, hair and nails, whilst
supporting the normal function of healthy joints, bones and
cartilage. Each fuss-free sachet contains 10,000mg of Type 1
marine collagen peptides and Vitamin C, B1, B5, B6, B12 and
L-lysine. Visit kollohealth.com IG: @kollohealth

21 17. Humble baby goods brings whimsy to everyday
life for mums and their babies with one-of-a-kind baby
19
20 bedding. Designed with a playful aesthetic and
handcrafted with the finest lightweight and
breathable organic cotton materials, these
nursery staples make the quintessential baby gift.
Visit humblebabygoods.com and follow them on
IG @humblebabygoods

18. sweet sorella is a Canadian jewellery brand
founded by sisters. They offer handmade polymer
clay earrings that are inspired by some of their
favourite Italian cities. Part of the proceeds go to
CIPO (Canadian Immunodeficiency Patient
Organisation) and Charlie’s Food Bank. To discover
more, visit sweetsorellajewelry.ca and follow
@sweet.sorella on IG.

19. eunoia pottery’s beautifully unique plaited
clay trinket bowls feature in their striking new
summer collection of decorative
homewares. Eunoia’s versatile products provide the
perfect pick me up for you and your home or a gift
22 for a loved one this summer. Visit eunoiapottery.store and follow
@eunoiapottery on IG to discover more.

20. roxy & romeo offers stylish and colourful dog collars, leads
and accessories. Each item is handmade in London with high-quality

materials. They also offer a bespoke service to suit your personal

fabric and design preferences. Have a unique bespoke collar and lead

made for your pup today. Visit roxyandromeo.com
IG: @roxy_and_romeo

21. No more cleaning up puppy accidents or leaving work early to let
your dog out. The stylish doggy batHroom is an indoor potty
solution for dogs, including an easy-to-clean litter box with vertical

pee pads. Designed for small breeds, including males who lift their

leg. Visit doggybathroom.com IG: @doggybathroom

22. Juliet’s loVer is the next generation of jewellery shopping.
Multiply your choice of accessories with their jewellery ‘Guess Box’,
which includes four pieces of stunning jewellery, tailored to your own
personal style and preference profile. Alternatively, get your wish list
delivered monthly when you treat yourself to their luxurious jewellery
subscription service. Juliet’s Lover aims to become the bridge
between jewellery designers and market/ jewellery lovers thanks to
their jewellery subscription model and a new NFT ecosystem for
jewellery designs and creation, built efficiently with Ethereum.
Visit julietslover.co.uk and follow @julietslover_uk on IG.

In The Studio Vanity Fair adVertising Feature

1. giselle ludwig was born in Montreal, Canada and currently works 1 2 3
and lives in Düsseldorf, germany. The artist creates large, colourful mixed 6
media abstract paintings in a spontaneous and unintentional process. 8
With various layers and structures she captures positive spirits in her 10
paintings and tries to transfer these to the viewer. Follow 12
@giselleludwigart on Ig and visit giselleludwig.com
14
2. susanne schwieter was born in Basel, switzerland and studied at 5
the renowned Kunstakademie Düsseldorf in germany. she has
participated in numerous shows in switzerland, germany, Italy, Denmark 4
and the Usa. schwieter is interested in visual language and seeks the
close connection between classical oil painting, photography and d igital
footage. Visit susanneschwieter.com Ig: @susanne.schwieter

3. Los angeles based contemporary artist, susan lizotte, has
exhibited her works both in the Us and internationally. Creating landscape
works, abstract maps and dramatic artworks of Los angeles, her pieces
flow and unfold themselves. explore her varied collections online at
susanlizotte.com and on Ig @susanlizotte

4 . Contemporary, abstract artist Margherita dall’orso gives life to
expressionist works that are inspired by emotion, the power of nature and
the infinity of the universe. she experiences the creation of each artwork
as a magical process, aiming to bring warmth, hope and joy. shop online at
margheritadallorso.com and @margheritadallorsoart on Ig.

5. helen ansell’s vibrant paintings capture the spirit of native 7
australian Flora and Fauna. Inspired by the wild desert landscape, helen
resides in the heart of Wildflower Country which influences her work. her
work is available as both paper and canvas Fine art prints through her
website. Visit helenansell.com Ig: @helenansellart

6. BarBara reade is a Canadian artist whose abstract paintings are inspired by both the
natural and urban environment. precise, directional lines intermingle with gestural applications of
paint, juxtaposing order alongside wildness. numerous layers of paint, graphite, wax pastel, and
collage ephemera create a rich history on the surface of each piece. pictured is ‘perish the
Thought’, 30”x30”. Visit barbarareade.com and follow @bdreade_art on Ig.

7. claire hankey is a UK-based artist living by the Thames estuary in Leigh on sea. she 9
creates tranquil and calming paintings for interiors, drawing inspiration from her local

environment, memories and her love of Japanese prints. Visit clairehankeyartist.com or follow
@clairehankeyartist on Ig.

8. natalie saunders is an artist based out of Melbourne, australia. she is well-known for To appear on These pages, ConTaCT [email protected] or CaLL 020 7499 9080 x 3705
her work with acrylics and abstract creations. Drawing from her textile design background, she

enjoys working with textures and bold colours. Discover more at nataliesaundersartist.com
or on Ig @natalie.saunders.artist

9. eMMa Pottage is a Devon-based artist whose work is inspired by working with different

materials and experimenting with paint. recently, emma’s work has been reflecting her ongoing

battle with an eating disorder. The paintings themselves act as an emotional release and

represent a positive turning point in her journey. Visit emmapottageart.co.uk 11
Ig @emmapottageart

10. Miyakah is a neurodivergent artist and computer scientist working in
synesthesia, automatism and ancestralism. Miyakah’s work surprises and revels in
what is bold, defiant, dynamic and formless; subversion of normativity and authentic
communication are all part of Miyakah’s ultimate goals as an artist. Visit
miyakah.com and follow @miyakahsgorge on Ig.

11. PaMela Madigan’s eclectic paintings are informed by her intuition, imagination
and frequently her sense of humour. What ends up on the canvas or panel is

representative of the stories that inhabit her heart. “Under a full moon at midnight

they were wed” was inspired by pamela’s lovely neighbours, Zeke and Violet. acrylic

on 61cm x 61cm x 6.3cm cradled wood panel. Visit pamelamadiganart.com or follow
her at @pamelamadiganart on Ig.

12. cindy shaoul is an nYC-based artist with a persian-hungarian background. 13
she creates whimsical and enchanting worlds and is passionate about her art and

steadfast belief to remain genuine through her practice. shaoul has flourished in 2020

and garnered the attention of actress Lily Collins and the like. pictured is “stepping

out with ashley park” oil on canvas, 20 x 16 inches. Visit cindyshaoul.com and follow
@cindyshaoul on Ig.

13. Based in Washington, DC, contemporary abstract artist roBin daVisson,
presents lyrical, process-driven work. as with all of robin’s work, ‘Kismet’, pictured, is
inspired by her training as a scientist, eclectic curiosity, and the material surprises she
uncovers in gesture. Visit robindavissonart.com and follow @robindavissonart on Ig.

14. australian artist, Marilou Palazon, treats her large flower paintings as 15
dramatic sculptural landscapes. her images navigate the struggle of beauty on
the edge of decay and the fragility of life. her blousy florals are theatrical and
monumental in scale. representing galleries are sydney road gallery, sydney
“ethereal” exhibition (23rd september-10th october) and galeria azur, Madrid.
Visit mariloupalazon.com.au Ig: @marilou_palazon

15. kirsten kainz is a Montana artist, who is deeply inspired by the world
around us. her paintings capture the subtle beauty of our natural world and
the intimate connections in our relationships with one another. The paintings
and sculptures she produces are available for public and private commission.
Visit kirstenkainz.net Ig: @kirstenkainzart

 Proust Questionnaire

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

The maestro of the red sole on loving Dolly, lockdown
in Portugal, and coming back to life as Prince

What is your idea of perfect happiness? A picnic in my garden
in Kerdalo, Brittany. What is your greatest extravagance?
Collecting houses. What do you most dislike about your
appearance? That “little men in their 50s” belly. Which living
person do you most despise? He is no longer president…
hallelujah. What or who is the greatest love of your life?
My two daughters, twins but at the same time so different.

Which talent would you most like to have? A voice to sing the Dishonesty. Which words or phrases do you most overuse?
blues. If you could change one thing about yourself, what “Really?!,” “OMG,” and “No way, José.” When and where
would it be? To get my curly hair back. What do you consider were you happiest? Weirdly enough, in Portugal during
your greatest achievement? To remain a free spirit and a confinement. What do you regard as the lowest depth of
happy person in such a twisted world. What is your greatest misery? I prefer not to think about that. Where would you
fear? Losing my virginity. Which living persons do you most like to live? Around my bed in Paris. What is your most
most admire? Tina Turner, Dolly Parton, and the King and treasured possession? My enthusiasm. What do you most
Queen of Bhutan. What is your most marked characteristic? value in your friends? Loyalty and transparency. Who are your
My exhausting energy. What is your favorite occupation? favorite writers? Thomas Savage, Ryszard Kapuściński,
Watching movies in my bed. What is the trait you most deplore Flaubert, Murakami, Roland Barthes, Orhan Pamuk. Who is
in yourself? I never let it go. Who are your heroes in real your hero of fiction? Jesus Christ, no better fictional myth.
life? Firemen. What is the trait you most deplore in others? Which historical figure do you most identify with? Napoleon
Intolerance, which is never far from stupidity. What is your on the top of the pyramids. What are your favorite names?
current state of mind? Incredibly peaceful, with a headache. Baptiste, Paloma, Eloïse, Diane, Nefer, Fetnat, Félicité,
What do you consider the most overrated virtue? In a Augustin. What is your greatest regret? Not to have my mother
certain way I would say intelligence, which is nothing if it’s not at my exhibition in Paris last year. How would you like to die? In
accompanied with kindness. On what occasion do you lie? a grumpy mood, age 125. What is your motto? Less is not more.
When I’m not with my daughters. What is the quality you most
like in a person? Kindness. What is it that you most dislike? If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what

would it be? Prince. It would make so many people happy! n

112 VA N I T Y FA I R ILLUSTRATION BY R I S KO OCTOBER 2021

SUIT BY CATHERINE QUINN. SHIRT BY HELLESSY. WATCH BY CARTIER. CUFF BY DIOR JOAILLERIE. BRACELET BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE DAVIS-MACLEOD. MAKE-UP BY MARIA COMPARETTO. HAIR BY DANIEL DYER. SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE LANGHAM HOTEL

®

ADDRESS BOOK

THE BEST OF EVERYTHING

The definitive online lifestyle guide featuring the top establishments
and trusted individuals in every world, from weddings to education.

ADDRESSBOOK.TATLER.COM



Please turn the page to view Supplement































CALIBER RM 07-01

RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUE LONDON

4-5 OLD BOND STREET, MAYFAIR
+44 207 1234 155

www.richardmille.com

IWC PILOT.
ENGINEERED FOR ORIGINALS.

Big Pilot’s Watch 43. ing presence on your wrist with unprecedented DOWNLOAD THE NEW IWC APP
Ref. 3293: The functional design with its easy- comfort. The IWC-manufactured 82100 calibre, FOR VIRTUAL TRY-ON
to-read dial and distinctive cone-shaped crown sapphire crystal back, and EasX-CHANGE rapid
has ensured the Big Pilot’s Watch of its iconic strap replacement system are further fea- IWC-manufactured 82100 calibre · Pellaton automatic
status. Now, for the first time, it is available in tures of this enormously versatile sports watch. winding system · 60-hour power reserve · Central
a 43-millimetre case that combines a strik- hacking seconds · See-through sapphire-glass back ·
IWC. ENGINEERING DREAMS. SINCE 1868. Water-resistant 10 bar · Diameter 43 mm · Stainless
steel

IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland · www.iwc.com

Contents /On Time Autumn 2021

Stopwatch

GA B RI E L A BAT I S TA ( RAY S S A L E A L ) ; M A K E - U P BY E M I L I E LO U I Z I D E S U S I N G G LO S S I E R ; N A I L S BY C H I S ATO AT C A R E N U S I N G O P I N A I L L AC Q U E R ; P RO D U C T I O N BY H O L LY RO S S ; S P E C I A L T H A N K S TO TA N J YA H O L L A N D PA R K I N ( A R LO PA R K S ) . Features

66

On the ONES TO On Time 14 Editor’s Letter
Cover WATCH
PLAY ON LookingForward 16 Contributors

LILY 88 Exploded Watch
COLLINS Chopard
L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
Photographed by Matt Holyoak.
THE Styled by Lucy Upton-Prowse.
Arlo Parks wears 25H stainless steel watch,
Future GG canvas coat, earring,
ISSUE ring and necklace, all by Gucci.
“I think there’s something grounding and
inimitable about having a physical watch.”

VA NI TY FA IR O N T IM E AUTUMN 2021 13

Editor’s Letter

To pursue L.P. Hartley’s geographical then you are in luck, as we have got Lily Collins
metaphor “The past is a foreign modelling the brand new Clash [Un]Limited
country: they do things differently mitten watch from Cartier.
there”, I have often wondered how the
author of The Go-Between would have This is, of course, all in addition to pages and
described the future. If the past is a pages of the latest timepieces in Watch Report,
foreign country, the future must be and commentary and insights on the latest
an entirely unknown land that we launches from our experts.
discover a day at a time.
But before you read anything in this issue
(except this letter of course), turn to gadget
guru Jonathan Margolis’ entertaining and
insightful essay about the history of the
future—mankind’s perennial predilection for
prediction, how surprisingly accurate some
past prophets have been, and why Elon Musk
is not banking on flying cars.

This issue of Vanity Fair On Time is dedicated to that journey of nicholas foulkes, Editor
exploration, as we get out our crystal ball and do our best to discern the
shape of things to come.

The watch may be something of an analogue exception in a digital
world, but if you thought the watch industry was future-phobic, the
following pages will do something to disabuse you of that notion. Rob
Waugh examines the gamification of watches and explains how watch
companies are engaging with those all-important Millennials and Gen
Z with a little help from Super Mario and Blanka’s Electric Thunder. And
when you are not gaming on your computer or handheld electronic device,
you could be commissioning your next watch as online configurators
become ever more popular and easy to use; in this issue Ming Liu
evaluates and compares the platforms that enable you to build your
own. Meanwhile, Anders Modig writes of the time the future arrived in
watchmaking in the form of computer-aided design and how it helped
haute horlogerie to scale ever loftier heights.

Our Portfolio is dedicated to the stars of tomorrow in fields as diverse as
singing and skateboarding, equine broadcasting and drone racing. While
the legendary Wei Koh and I cast an eye over the upcoming generation
of watchmakers, executives, collectors, auctioneers, watch dealers and
horological influencers who are still under 30. We are also very fortunate
in having Wei’s compatriot Michael Tay provide an essential guide to
the past, present and future of independent watchmaking. And if you
are interested in seeing what the future of women’s timepieces looks like

VANITY FAIR ON TIME NICHOLAS FOULKES

Editor Nicholas Foulkes AUTUMN 2021
Executive and Managing Editor Holly Ross
Creative Design Director, CNX Scott Moore Deputy Art Director Anja Wohlstrom
Designer Emily Lord Photo Editor Tanjya Holland Parkin
Senior Copywriter, CNX Jessica Burrell Copywriter, CNX Clementina Jackson
Commercial Director Watches, Culture Vikki Theo
Account Director, Style Emily Goodwin Business Manager, Travel & Lifestyle Charlotte Taylor
Senior Production Controller Helen Crouch Senior Production Coordinator Leonie Kellman

Publishing Director/CBO, Travel & Lifestyle Simon Leadsford

14 VA N I T Y F A I R O N T I M E

VANITY FAIR PARTNERSHIP

THE ART
of More

Audemars Piguet’s new Royal
Oak Offshore enhances the
model’s landmark aesthetic

U ND MINDER IST oft mehr”? Meh!
With the greatest respect to
Christoph Martin Wieland,
sometimes less isn’t more. Sometimes,
more is more. Consider the Royal Oak
Offshore. Launched in 1993 as an
ocean-going advance on its forebear’s
best-selling blend of strength and
nobility, the Offshore offered in
its bold-for-the time 42mm case:
100m water resistance, a
soft-iron inner cage to protect
against magnetic fields and
the family’s first
chronograph movement—
all in a design that perfectly
matched its sophisticated
heft. Today, a new generation
celebrates the Offshore’s
sporty elan and further
optimises the model’s ergonomic
appeal, while doubling down on
the dynamism of its landmark
aesthetic. Housed in a stainless

steel, pink gold or titanium 43mm case, CASE STUDY
the new models herald the arrival of
Audemars Piguet’s latest in-house The new Royal Oak Offshore is housed in a
flyback chronograph, Calibre 4401, into stainless steel, pink gold or titanium 43mm case.
the collection, complete with 70 hours
power reserve and thus suited to even a bezel (with the exception of the
the most committed weekend warrior. all-titanium version), screw-locked
Meanwhile, enriching the muscular crown, and push-pieces executed in
detailing are a series of sleight-of-hand arresting grey or black ceramic, while
yet highly effective developments. the refreshed “Mega Tapisserie”
A smoothly reworked case features: guilloché dial now offers the iconic
“pyramid” pattern in subtle shades of
black, grey, light brown and blue—the
perfect palette against which to play
with a choice of four matching rubber
straps fitted using Audemars Piguet’s
first ever interchangeable strap system.
To add without taking away is a challenge;
in the all-new Royal Oak Offshore, it
need only be called the Art of More.

For more information, please visit
audemarspiguet.com

Contributors

Clockwise
from left:
Máximo Tuja,
a.k.a. Max-o-
matic; Tanjya
Holland
Parkin;
Gabriela
Batista;
Michael Tay;
Jonathan
Margolis

Max-o-matic Tanjya Holland Gabriela Jonathan Michael LARISSA ZAIDAN (GABRIELA BATISTA); ROBERT FOLLIS (JONATHAN MARGOLIS); THE HOUR GLASS (MICHAEL TAY).
PA R K I N BATISTA MARGOLIS TAY
“WATCH REPORT”
P. 77 PHOTO EDITOR “THE VANITY FAIR ON TIME “A BRIEF HISTORY OF “DARE TO BE DIFFERENT”
FUTURE ISSUE PORTFOLIO” THE FUTURE” P. 44
Artist and image A Hawaii native, P. 66 P. 54
maker Máximo Tuja Tanjya Holland For On Time, Michael
was born in Buenos Parkin pursued Gabriela Batista Tech journalist and Tay delves into the
Aires, and his work her passion for is a Brazilian author of A Brief next generation
has been exhibited photography at the photographer based History of Tomorrow of watchmakers,
everywhere from School of Visual Arts in São Paulo. She Jonathan Margolis who are hand-
London to Tokyo in New York, but now transitions between addresses audiences crafting their way
via Rome and calls London home. documentary projects around the world to modernity. As
Rotterdam. His style She has loved every and advertising, with his talk “Never Group Managing
has been described minute of her years focusing on lifestyle Predict Anything— Director of The Hour
as “creating an as Photo Editor at and sports. She was Especially The Glass, a member of
imaginary world Vanity Fair, from behind the lens for Future”. In this issue, the Fondation de la
from torn pieces of arranging shoots on the striking Portfolio he pens an essay Haute Horlogerie,
the real one”, which submarines to image of 13-year-old about mankind’s and a jury member
is fitting for the putting on her skateboarder Rayssa most insightful— for various watch-
pastiche he created detective hat to seek Leal, who won silver and entertaining— making prizes, he is
as the backdrop for out images of ultra- in the inaugural attempts to do well placed to report
Watch Report, which rare horological Women’s Street just that, from from the rapidly
feels both futuristic treasures for On Time. Finals at the Nostradamus to evolving world of
and nostalgic. Tokyo Olympics. Bill Gates. artisanal horology.

16 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021

TAG HEUER BOUTIQUE
449 OXFORD STREET, LONDON

STOR E

Timeless prints from the world’s most iconic artists
condenaststore.com

S T O P WA T C H

ON TIME AUTUMN 2021

DRESS BY FENDI; THE CLASH [UN]LIMITED MITTEN WATCH BY CARTIER. STYLED BY ROB & MARIEL; HAIR BY GREGORY RUSSELL AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKE-UP BY FIONA STILES AT A-FRAME AGENCY USING LANCOME; AS EMILY IN PARIS, actor Lily Collins found herself thrown in the dastardly deep end of the Parisian luxury world. Yet she triumphed,
NAILS BY THUY NGUYEN AT A-FRAME USING STATIC NAILS; TAILOR: MIA PARANTO; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: LOUISE KAHN; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: ERIC LARSON; STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: RUM BRADY; both as Emily and as Lily, whose scintillating performance won her a Golden Globe nomination—as well as a role in real-life
H A I R A S S I S TA N T : J O S H FA L E W I T C H ; P RO D U C T I O N BY H O L LY RO S S . Parisian luxury as Cartier’s new Ambassador and Face of the Clash [Un]Limited jewellery collection. The centrepiece of the
youth-fuelled, punk-flavoured collection is the spectacular, slinky and silky Mitten watch; a glove of diamond-strewn rose gold
mesh embedded with a Baignoire Allongée diamond-paved dial, trimmed with studs. A feat of craft and technological ingenuity,
and a fusion of fashion, fabric, jewel and timepiece; the perfect expression, says Collins, of her ever-changing, multi-faceted,
mix-and-match personal style. “It’s bold, innovative, and classic. I like to make unexpected choices while remaining true to
who I am.” And does it change her relationship with time? “I remember feeling so impatient when I was starting out and wishing
everything would happen instantaneously. But now I understand that things can happen when you least expect them to.” n
—VIVIENNE BECKER

VA N I TY FA IR O N T I M E PHOTOGRAPH BY ARI MICHELSON AUTUMN 2021 19

Stopwatch /Auction Report

By Simon de Burton

Design of the TIMES

The top lots of the spring and summer season, record sales that
have defied a troubled period, and expert tips for the months ahead

Hold Your HORSESHOES Pebble The Art STANISLAS MACHOÏR (MIDO BUGATTI WRIST WATCH); HERITAGE IMAGE PARTNERSHIP LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (1924 BUGATTI T YPE 35); FELLOWS AUCTIONEERS (JACK TAYLOR OMEGA STOPWATCH); JOHN VARLEY/MIRRORPIX/GETT Y
Dash IMAGES (JACK TAYLOR AT THE 1974 WORLD CUP FINAL IN MUNICH); BONHAMS (CARTIER PEBBLE “TURTLE” LONDON HALLMARK FOR 1975); BURT GLINN/MAGNUM PHOTOS (ANDY WARHOL WITH EDIE SEDGWICK AND CHUCK WEIN IN NEW
A gold Bugatti-branded wristwatch that had OF CONSUMPTION YORK CIT Y, 1965); CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2021 (PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 570 18K GOLD WRIST WATCH, OWNED BY ANDY WARHOL); BLANCPAIN (BLANCPAIN FIFT Y FATHOMS NO RAD VINTAGE MODEL).
been the personal property of Ettore Bugatti Vintage wristwatches
fetched £232,120 at Stanislas Machoir made by Cartier London A yellow gold Patek Philippe
auction house near Toulouse, France, this spring, Calatrava that belonged to Andy
having been consigned by an anonymous owner during the 1960s and Warhol fetched £107,000 at
who bought it cheaply at auction around 15 years ’70s have long been a Christie’s New York online sale
ago. The Mido Bugatti watch has a case in the undervalued, but now, it in June. The 1954 Reference 570,
distinctive horseshoe shape of a Bugatti car radiator seems, the secret is out. with a rare dial signed by Rome
and is topped with an enamelled EB logo and filler At Phillips Geneva in retailer Hausmann, was one of
May, a 1972 “Pebble”— nine Pateks found hidden in a
cap winding crown. Bugatti featuring a square filing cabinet after Warhol’s death
commissioned Mido to make dial within a round, in 1987. It was sold by Sotheby’s in
around 90 watches in four series, tactile case—sold for 1988 as part of a $25m, 10-day
£321,000. It made estate sale, which included more
the first between 1925 and 1926 and the quadruple the estimate, than 200 wristwatches. “Watches
remainder between 1930 and 1932. thanks to its original were really great to collect, and
condition and scarcity; Andy bought a lot of them,”
BACK OF THE NET just six were made. recalled his long-standing
This unusual Omega was the stopwatch used A second, even more friend, silkscreen printer and
by Jack Taylor—“perhaps the finest English unusual version with art director Rupert Smith.
referee of all time”—to ensure the 1974 so-called “turtle” strap
World Cup final between Germany and
the Netherlands was a game of two (exact) lugs turned up at
halves. The watch, engraved with the World Bonhams in June with
Cup logo and Taylor’s initials, fetched £4,200. a level of
rarity—
the only

other
example is
in Cartier’s

own
collection—
that helped
it achieve
£225,250.

HERO WATCH Blancpain Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations”

P anerai aside, most people regard the Rolex maximum depth attainable by a diver using compressed air.
Submariner as the first professional dive Initially a military secret, the Fifty Fathoms found an
watch, officially launched at the 1954 Basel
Watch Fair. However, two years earlier a couple of audience when Jacques Cousteau wore one for his award-
French Naval officers, Commander Robert winning 1956 film The Silent World, sparking a trend
Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, had
been instructed to establish an elite dive unit among sport divers around the world. Hollywood star
called Les Nageurs de Combat. Top priority was and diving fanatic Lloyd Bridges also gave the model a
decent kit, so they contacted Blancpain boost when he appeared on the front of Skin Diver
requesting high-spec waterproof watches. The magazine in 1962 with one on his wrist.
result was the now-legendary Blancpain Fifty This led Blancpain to make the model available for
Fathoms, a military dive watch capable of
remaining watertight down to 91 metres, the then- rent and sale with suppliers of sport diving kit,
distinguishing them from the original by adding a red
and yellow “No Radiations” mark to set minds at ease that
the Tritium used to make the dial glow in the dark was safe.

MAY 2016 DECEMBER 2018
Phillips Geneva Sotheby’s New York

Sfr 32,500 $30,000

NOVEMBER DECEMBER MAY 2018 AUGUST 2019 MAY 2020
2016 Phillips 2017 Christie’s Antiquorum Geneva Christie’s New York Sotheby’s Geneva

Geneva New York Sfr 9,375 $15,000 Sfr 15,000
Sfr 18,750 $22,500

20 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021

CLASSIC FUSION ORLINSKI

Blue ceramic case and dial.
Self-winding movement.

Stopwatch /Auction Report

It’s a Brave NEW WORLD SPEAKING By George, D E A P I C T U R E L I B R A R Y / D E A G O S T I N I V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S ( W O R L D M A P B Y F R A N C E S C O R O S S E L L I , I N K O N PA R C H M E N T , C I R C A 1 5 0 8 ) ; P H I L L I P S ( PAT E K P H I L I P P E , R E F 2 5 2 3 , T W O - C R O W N “ E U R A S I A” W O R L D T I M E W R I S T WAT C H , 1 9 5 3 ) ; A N L / S H U T T E R S T O C K
WHAT A PRICE (DR GEORGE DANIELS); BONHAMS (GEORGE DANIELS LIMITED SERIES AUTOMATIC CENTRE SECONDS WRISTWATCH WITH CO-AXIAL ESCAPEMENT MILLENNIUM, MADE IN 1999); CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2021 (KEITH DAVIS) AND (CHRISTIE’S NEW YORK);
This ultra-rare Patek Philippe “Heures Universelles” watch, with two FROM P H I L L I P S ( C O M P L E T E S E T O F F. P . J O U R N E “ S O U S C RI P T I O N ” WAT C H E S , N ° 1 I N E AC H S E RI E S ) ; O N LY WAT C H ( C LO C K W I S E , F RO M TO P L E F T : H U B LOT, PAT E K P H I L I P P E , M O N T B L A N C , AU D E M A R S P I G U E T, C H A N E L , Z E N I T H ) ; G E T T Y I M AG E S ( GAV E L ) .
crowns, became far and away the top lot of the spring and summer A George Daniels Millennium
sales season when it fetched a remarkable £5,536,580 at Phillips EXPERIENCE became the most expensive
Geneva. The 1953 World Time was one of just three examples of British-made wristwatch ever
the Reference 2523 to feature a so-called “Eurasia” dial in cloisoné After two years without sold when Bonhams hammered
enamel. No more than 36 Reference 2,523 watches with the two- a boss, Christie’s U.S. it down for £519,000 at its Bond
crown movement were made, and this one hadn’t been seen in public watch division has a new Street, London rooms in June.
since disappearing into a private collection almost 30 years ago. leader. Keith Davis joins The watch, made in 1999, was
after running the New one of just 48 yellow gold
Raise the ROOF York watch operation examples made by Dr Daniels,
of rival, Dallas-based who died 10 years ago aged 85.
N ovember will see Richard Mille and Tudor. house Heritage Auctions. He was widely regarded as the
the ninth edition of All lots will be available to greatest watchmaker of the 20th
the biennial Only view in a pre-sale global Davis, a trained century and originally charged
Watch charity auction, tour starting at the Monaco watchmaker who served between £25,000 and £35,000
which has raised £60m for Yacht Show on September apprenticeships in the for his Millennium watches.
research into Duchenne 22 and continuing to Dubai U.S. and U.K., originally This example, consigned by
muscular dystrophy since (September 30–October 3); David Newman, chairman of
the inaugural sale in 2005. Tokyo (October 8–10); worked as a technical the George Daniels Educational
The 2019 event resulted in Singapore (October 15–20) trainer at Bulgari Trust, last sold at auction in
a world record price for any and Hong Kong (October 2014 for £146,500.
timepiece when a unique 25–27), prior to arriving at before joining Vacheron
Patek Philippe Grand Geneva’s Four Seasons Constantin as commercial
Master Chime wristwatch Hôtel des Bergues where
fetched £24.1m. This year, they can be seen from director. He will be
an unprecedented 53 lots November 4. The sale backed at Christie’s
have been contributed by starts at 2pm on November New York by new senior
dial names including Patek 6. Full details can be found watches consultant Adam
Philippe, Audemars Piguet, at onlywatch.com. Victor, a former LVMH
fashion executive who,
says Christie’s, “has
dedicated the past 30
years to researching,
collecting, and consulting
clients and collectors
on the rarest and finest

timepieces”.

22 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E SUBSCRIPTION Model

The only known complete set of all five F.P.Journe “Souscription”
watches could realise more than £1m when they are offered for sale
individually at Phillips Geneva in November. The “Souscription”—
subscription—aspect refers to the fact that Journe financed the launch
of his eponymous dial name in 1999 by taking part-payments for
the first watches before they were made, a system used by the
19th-century maker Abraham-Louis Breguet. The Tourbillon
Remontoir on offer is, therefore, the very first watch to have been
sold under the F.P.Journe dial name.

AUTUMN 2021

When the conditions are
unpredictable you need a

watch that isn’t.

Supermarine Chrono Blue

Stopwatch /Auction Report

AUCTIONEERSÕ Top Tips

Buy, Sell, Hold BUY SELL HOLD TONY VACCARO/GETTY IMAGES (PABLO PICASSO IN 1966); BONHAMS (LELA KANELLOPOULOU, ‘LA BELLE HELENE’) AND (MICHAEL Z. BERGER CO. POUR PABLO PICASSO WATCH C1960); CLASSIC IMAGE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (JAMES JOYCE); COURTESY
O F S WA N N AU C T I O N GA L L E RI E S / B RI D G E M A N I M AG E S ( U LY S S E S BY J A M E S J OYC E ) ; B O N H A M S ( G O L D P O C K E T M E N T I O N E D I N U LY S S E S A N D O RI G I N A L LY OW N E D BY J O H N O ’ C O N N E L L , R E A L L I F E C H A RAC T E R I N J A M E S J OYC E ’ S M A S T E R P I E C E ) ; D I X N O O N A N
Joanne Lewis 1940s, ’50s and ’60s Rolex Daytona, Submariner, Square and cushion-form WEBB; PHILLIPS; BONHAMS; SOTHEBY’S; DR. CROTT AUCTIONEERS; WATCHES OF KNIGHTSBRIDGE; MONACO LEGEND GROUP/MONACOLEGENDGROUP.COM; ANTIQUORUM; AUDEMARS PIGUET; CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2021 (BUY, SELL, HOLD).
gold Rolex, Patek Philippe Explorer, Sea-Dweller, vintage watches
Dix Noonan Webb, London and Vacheron Constantin GMT-Master
Collection Privée Cartier
Paul Boutros Factory gem-set Rolex Rectangular-shaped vintage Paris watches and rare
sports watches watches by Patek Philippe or Cartier de Pasha models
Phillips, New York
Off-the-radar watches by Vacheron Constantin Modern complicated
Jonathan good makers but only in watches by leading makers,
Darracott Top independents: George
very good condition Daniels, F.P.Journe, Philippe such as Patek Philippe
Bonhams, London
Early Daniel Roth and Dufour and Roger Smith Vintage Cartier and Patek
Sam Hines Roger Dubuis Philippe across the board
All F.P.Journe
Sotheby’s, Hong Kong

Stefan Muser Independent maker Charles F.P.Journe—prices Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Frodsham—buy it now are sky high and Patek Philippe Nautilus
Dr Crott, Mannheim

Toby Sutton Vintage Rolex, original Modern re-editions, Vintage Cartier: London
examples continue to although they will not pieces and Collection Privée
Watches of Knightsbridge, London appreciate like the originals
appreciate in value Cartier Paris
All Audemars Piguet Royal
Davide Parmegiani Vintage design and “shaped” Oak and Patek Philippe Vintage chronographs with
watches from notable Nautilus models square buttons and quality
Monaco Legend Group, Monte Carlo
brands of the 20th century Patek Philippe Aquanaut complicated watches
and Audemars Piguet
Julien Schaerer Patek Philippe Ref. 3970, “Jumbo” Royal Oak Quality pocket watches are
Rolex Seadwellers and ’80s currently failing to realise
Antiquorum, Switzerland Philippe Dufour and
Rolex sports modes Georges Daniels watches their true value

Alexandre Bigler Enamel watches Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
(pocket, wrist and clock) models for next year’s
Christie’s, Asia anniversary
and minute repeaters

PRETTYas a Picture ALL IN GOOD TIME
Bonhams has announced
A watch that belonged to Pablo Picasso and a new category of sale
carried the 12 letters of his name on the dial called Time is Precious,
soared to £186,500 at Bonhams, Paris in which will be dedicated
May, against a pre-sale estimate to all things time-related,
of just £15,300. The hand- such as antique clocks,
wound steel watch by Swiss watches, paintings,
maker Michael Z. Berger was photographs, literature
one of three known to have been and works of art. The first
auction—which includes
owned by the Spanish a pocket watch mentioned
artist, who is shown wearing one in a in James Joyce’s Ulysses—
studio portrait by Cecil Beaton. Picasso will be held in Paris
gifted the watch to his friend, the Greek on November 4.
sculptress Lela Kanellopoulou, whom he
referred to as “La belle Helene”.

24 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021



Stopwatch /News Report

By Nazanin Lankarani

COLLABORATIONS

Bovet 1822 and Rolls-Royce (below right). One special jumping hour with an A collaboration would be a
have collaborated on two and two limited editions are automatic movement and great coup for the brand, if
uniquely engineered in the works, co-designed 37-hour power reserve. For confirmed. An official
tourbillons commissioned with Rowing Blazers’ the price of £4,600, each announcement is expected
for a bespoke Boat Tail. The founder and creative buyer will be offered the in October.
pieces were made to fit into director, Jack Carlson. chance to partake in a
the car’s dashboard using a half-day diving experience In a collaboration with
special mounting system Reservoir has designed with Lecoeur in the Coca-Cola, Ice-Watch has
designed by Bovet. “The the Hydrosphere Port-Cros National Park of designed a new collection in
owners of the [bespoke] Bronze Greg Lecoeur in Hyères in France. Part of the the red, black and white
coach-built car and these partnership with diver and proceeds of each sale will go colours of the signature
bespoke timepieces are photographer Greg Lecoeur. to Coral Gardeners, a coral Coke bottle (left). One
valued collectors of Bovet The 50-piece series features reefs preservation project. version is solar-powered,
1822, so it was important to a retrograde minute and and all are delivered in a
do the very best for them— De Bethune has felt pouch made from
two completely unique Louis Moinet’s Hope revealed that the recycled plastic bottles,
pieces that are unlike Probe Tourbillon celebrates American Grammy- priced at £85.
anything we have ever done the United Arab Emirates’ award winning
before,” said Pascal Raffy, first mission to Mars on the rapper and record Zenith has designed a
owner of Bovet 1822. country’s 50th anniversary. producer pink Defy Midnight for
Swizz Beatz Pink Ribbon Switzerland’s
Seiko has announced a Nomos Glashütte’s (also husband to annual gala and
collaboration with the New Médecins Sans Frontières artist Alicia Keys) charity auction to be held in
York-based sporty fashion Tangente 38 marks 50 years is a fan of the Zurich in late October. This
brand, Rowing Blazers of work by Doctors Without brand and recently will be the brand’s second
Borders, with a donation purchased a DB28 donation to support breast
Anniversaries made from every sale. Kind of Gold model. cancer awareness.

ALL THAT JAZZ

For the centenary of
its Historiques American
1921, Vacheron
Constantin has
reissued three new cushion-
shaped models emblematic
of the Roaring Twenties.

MODERN CLASSIC: Vacheron Overseas QP by Nicholas Foulkes

T he perpetual calendar sportswatch should Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton is ILLUSTRATIONS BY EWELINA DYMEK.
really be an oxymoron. Think about it, when bang on trend, mixing muscular design with haute
was the last time you were engaged in
sporting activity and seized by an ineluctable horlogerie savoir-faire. This watch earns its
desire to know the phase of the moon [1]? fortunate owner extra horological bragging rights
by virtue of being openworked [3] and that goes
But we all know that the watch industry not just for the movement but the oscillating
operates according to its own irrefutable rules, weight too, which carries the Maltese cross
one of which would appear to be that any truly emblem. Indeed, everywhere you look you are
prestigious watch brand is in need of an integrated
case and bracelet [2] perpetual calendar sports reminded of the Maltese cross: the links in the metal
watch. Which means that the Vacheron Constantin bracelet [4] are inspired by it, and even if you swap to the
rubber strap the shape of it can be seen on the buckle.

26 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021



Stopwatch /News Report

PARTNERSHIPS

Breitling has signed a engineering and Bell & Ross’ new BR trust that is the fruit of a
long-term deal with Ironman timekeeping partnership to 03-94 Chrono PAF marks rich and prestigious history
to be its “Official Luxury create the world’s first the start of the French between Bell & Ross and
Watch”.  Two co-designed “flying car” series (see p. 70). brand’s partnership with military aviation,” said
models, the Endurance Pro the Patrouille de France, Bruno Belamich, creative
Ironman and the Endurance The first piece from the aerobatics unit of the director and co-founder of
Pro Ironman Finisher are Girard-Perregaux and French Air and Space Force. the brand.
unlimited editions and Aston Martin is the A mechanical chronograph
priced at £2,720. Tourbillon with Three (above) is the central feature Rolex is now a worldwide
Flying Bridges Aston Martin of the automatic model that partner of The Ryder Cup
In a new collaboration Edition, an edition of 18 that is equipped with a bi- (below). In a landmark
with Universal Pictures’ celebrates the watchmaker’s directional bezel with a agreement with the PGA of
Fast & Furious franchise, 19th-century Three Bridges 60-minute scale to mark America—Ryder Cup
Jacob & Co. has unveiled pocket watch, updated with intervals in time. Limited Europe’s partner in golf’s
the Fast & Furious Twin a black leather strap and to 500 pieces. “This most celebrated team
Turbo, a nine-piece limited “rubber alloy” band injected partnership is a token of contest—the Swiss
edition with twin triple-axis with white gold. watchmaker aligns with
tourbillons that rotate in surf an e-foil on the River Ryder Cup USA for the first
unison at speeds of 24, 48 rolling 100m-long waves in Thames wearing a TAG time as its official
and 180 seconds. The dial Sion. Winter sports facilities Heuer Aquaracer timekeeper, a role it has
features the Fast & Furious are available at the Alaïa Professional 300. No need enjoyed with Team Europe
logo atop a curvaceous Lodge and Chalet in to make man-made waves since 1995.
creature holding checkered Crans-Montana. since e-foiling surfers fly
flags as a pair of hot rods above the water surface Cartier was official
stand ready to bolt. Former Olympic thanks to a hydrofoil partner of the 78th edition
snowboarder Aimee Fuller powered by an electric of the Venice International
IWC Schaffhausen became the first woman to propeller that helps to lift Film Festival, which ended
joined forces with them out of water. on September 11. At a
Airspeeder in an star-studded gala dinner on
Ulysse Nardin has September 2, Cyrille
Surf Õs UP partnered with the Ocean Vigneron, chief executive of
Race, a challenging sailing Cartier International,
Tudor has announced a event that since 1973, has announced Cartier’s first
new partnership with Alaïa, tested ocean sailors with film prize, the Glory to the
the Swiss provider of some of the most gruelling Filmmaker award, which
realistic action sport trials of endurance. The was given to Ridley Scott for
experiences. Alaïa Wake next edition of the Ocean his original contribution
Surf offers wakeboarding Race will start in Alicante, to the contemporary
sessions on Lake Geneva Spain in Autumn 2022 and film industry.
and the thrills of ocean circle the globe before
surfing in a large pool with finishing in Genoa, Italy in ILLUSTRATIONS BY EWELINA DYMEK.
the summer of 2023.

28 VA N I T Y FA I R O N T I M E AUTUMN 2021