Food of Asia

The F o o d o


A S I A





















Featuring authentic recipes from master chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia,

Japan, Korea, Malaysia, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietna



Forewords by Ming Tsai and Cheong Liew
Introductory essays by Kong Foong Ling



























PERIPLUS

Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.,
with editorial offices at
61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12,
Singapore 534167.

Copyright © 2002
Pcrlplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0972-8 (ebook)
Library of Congress Control Number: 2002102296
Printed in Singapore

Photo credits:
food photography by Luca lnvernizzi Tettoni,
except as noted below:
Masano Kawana: 112-115
Heinz von Holzen: 72- 87. 94-107. 176- 18 7

Location photography by:
Doan Due Minh: l 70: Jean Leo Dngast/ Photobank:
22; Michael Freeman/ Photobank: 89; Jill Gocher: 9
[fishing boys]. 66. 68. 117: Tin1 Hall: 171, 173:
Heinz von Holzen: 9 [Balinese procession]. 69. 90,
91. 9 3. 17 4; Catherine Karnow: 172: Masano
Kawana: 108. 109. 111: Leong Ka Tai: 34;
Shin Kimura: 18: Kal Muller: 67: E1·ic Oey: 88:
Photobank: 6. 8 Qapancse girl). 32, 92 [tea ceremony), The Flavors of Asia
137. 139. 153. 154: Dominic Sansoni: 144, 145. 6
147; Luca Invernizzi Tettoni: 8 rtea house], 9
rbanana leaf restaurant], 23. 25. 30. 31' 33. 48. Ingredients 10
49.50. 51.52. 53,116.118.120,152.155.156:
Sonny Yabao: 136.
The Asian Kitchen 18



Burma
Introduction 23
Suggested Menus 25
Recipes
Appetizers, Soups & Salads 26
Distributors
Soups & Noodles 27
USA. Europe Tuttle Publishing Seafood & Meat Dishes 28
& Latin America 364 Innovation Drive Desserts 29
North Clarendon. VT 05759-9436
lei: (802) 773-8930
Fax: (802) 773-6993 China
Introduction 31
Asia Pacific Berkeley Books Pte. Lld.
61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12, Suggested Menus 35
Singapore 534167. Recipes
Tel: (65) 6280-3320 Snacks & Appetizers 36
Fax: (65) 6280-6290 Soups & Noodles 38
Main Dishes 40
Japan and Korea Tuttle Publishing
Yaekari Building. 3rd Floor Desserts 46
5-4-12 Osaki. Shinagawa-ku Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 47
Tokyo 141 0032, Japan
Tel: (81-3) 5437-0171
Fax: (81-3) 5437-0755 India
Introduction 49
Indonesia PT Java Books Indonesia Suggested Menus 53
Jl. Kelapa Gading Kirana
Blok A-14/17, Jakarta 14240 Recipes
Tel: (62-21) 451-5351 Breads 54
Fax: (62-21) 453-4987 Main Dishes 56
Desserts 62
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 65

______________________________________________________________________________ ~I CONTENTS I 3










































Indonesia Malaysia & Singapore Thailand

Introduction 67 Introduction 117 Introduction 153
Suggested Menus 71 Suggested Menus 121 Suggested Menus 157
Recipes Recipes Recipes
Appetizers 72 Appetizers 122 Appetizers 158
Salads 74 Soups & Noodles 124 Soups & Noodles 160
Soups 76 Main Dishes 128 Salads & Appetizers 162
Main Dishes 78 Desserts l34 Main Dishes 164
Desserts 84 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments l35 Desserts 168
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 87 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 169
The Philippines
Japan Introduction l37 Vietnam

Introduction 89 Suggested Menus l39 Introduction 171
Suggested Menus 93 Recipes Suggested Menus 175
Recipes Snacks & Rice 140 Recipes
Appetizers 94 Noodles & Soups 141 Appetizers 176
Soups & Noodles 96 Main Dishes 142 Soups 178
Sushi & Sashimi 98 Desserts 143 Salads 179
Main Dishes 100 Main Dishes 180
Desserts 106 Sri Lanka Desserts 186
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 107 Introduction 145 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 187

Suggested Menus 147
Korea Recipes Appendix 188
Introduction 109 Snacks & Appetizers 148
Suggested Menus III Soups & Vegetables 149 Index 189
Recipes Seafood & Meat 150
Appetizers & Kimchi 112 Seafood & Meat & Desserts 151
Soups & Seafood 113
Meat, Rice & Noodles 114
Desserts & Drinks 115

4 I FOREWORD ~I ______________________________________________________________________ __






Authenticity






and tradition

















Whether you're sweating out a spicy curry from India or Sri Lanka, delighting in flavorful grilled meats from Korea or Vietnam,
or marveling at the intricate delicacy of a Japanese or Thai meal, Asian food-with its delightfully heady mix of flavors, smells
and colors-has plenty to offer the dedicated foodie.

Asian cuisine is so much more than just food-steeped as it is in social and cultural lore. The region's recipes and cooking
methods have developed over many centuries and now, thanks to globalization and migration, Asia's time-honored cooking
traditions and fabled dishes have made their way to all corners of the globe. Asian ingredients that were once hard to come by
are readily available in supermarkets worldwide as well as from Asian grocers and online merchants, and more people than
ever before are eating Asian food on a regular basis.

At my restaurant, Blue Ginger, and in my cookbook, I strive to properly blend the flavo~s of the East with those of the West.
My feeling is that in order to successfully combine the two cuisines, one must first learn the proper and traditional methods of
preparation for each region. The Food of Asia thoroughly and expertly presents the entire spectrum of the Asian culinary
landscape, from Burma to Vietnam. For those who lack the time or r¢sources to travel to Asia, this book brings the region to
you, all without leaving your own kitchen.

Peace and Good Eating!
































MingTsai

__________________________________________________________________________ ~I FOREWORD I 5






Inspiration







from Asia
















I recall sitting in a vine-covered courtyard in Adelaide, South Australia, some 30 years ago and meditating on what Australian
cuisine would be like in the future. I remember thinking of the vast resources of food knowledge which abound to the north of
us on the Asian continent, and the relative accessibility of it all to young Australian chefs who travel there to gain firsthand
information about the best ways of preparing Asian dishes.


The Asian knowledge of fish and seafood preparations, for example, is endless-from knife skills to stir-frying, oil poaching,
steaming and multi-step boiling, deep-frying, and steaming-which is another way of braising. Asian methods of grilling after
marinating in spices and yogurt, and the appreciation for spice mixtures and the subtle fragrances of a particular spice in
combination with various foods- the knowledge and learning of all this is truly without end!


Foods and recipes from Asia have today become an integral part of the Australian diet and it is hard to imagine a restaurant
menu or meal without some Asian influences. Herb and spice combinations from Thailand and Indochina add fragrance and
excitement to our salads. The dry spice cooking of India provides a wealth of flavors and subtle aromas. The wet spice cooking
of Southeast Asia provides aromatic bouquets mingled with the sweetness of creamy coconut. The aquaculture cuisine of Japan
teaches us to respect the quality of fresh fish and appreciate raw fish, revealing its true taste. And the classical food science and
philosophy of China provides the basis for many of our cooking skills and a better appreciation of food generally.


To know how to cook, one must first learn how to eat! From many Asian traditions, we learn that eating is not only the basis of
good living but also of good health, and that certain foods act as preventative medicines. I am so glad that after 30 years, the
food traditions of Asia have so profoundly influenced the modern international cuisines of today. And I welcome the publication
of The Food of Asia which presents a wealth of authentic recipes and dishes as they are prepared and served today in Asia.
At the Grange Restaurant at Hilton Adelaide, I am continually striving to perfect the fusion of traditional Asian food cultures
represented in this book with our contemporary dining world in Australia, .

,

















Cheong Liew



J I N T R O D U C T I O N I





Left, main picture: Friends an

family enjoying a traditional
steamboat dinner. The steam-
boat, a meal which is not only

eaten but cooked by all those a

the table, demonstrates one o

the fundamental roles that food
plays in Asia: that of bringin

people together

T h e F l a v o r






of A s i












From roadside hawker stalls in the large cities to the food courts in shoppin
malls, the five-star restaurants and the joys of home cooking, food is an all-
consuming passion in Asia.
















There is so much good food in Asia that the first- placed alongside the trinity of spoon-fork-knife i


time traveler cannot help but be enchanted. I Western-style restaurants—if indeed such a cate-


often comes as a surprise to people unfamilia gory still holds—that now serve roast lamb an

with Asian cultures how much the joy of living o tandoori chicken on the same menu. And just a

most Asian peoples centers around the prepara- kids in some Asian countries are demandin



tion, sharing, and discussion of food. As a che cornflakes and milk for breakfast, some people in


once said, food in Asia is an exercise in tradition, the West are trading in their breakfast cereals fo


in aesthetics, mutual caring, and moral lessons steaming bowls of noodles or plain rice with

soup and pickles. The popularity and pervasivenes




Even out of Asia, it is hard to find a place on earth of Asian food, particularly in the West, has neve

with food that has not been touched by some been higher
aspect of Asian cooking, be it in the form o But in order to cook Asian food—any food


ingredients, cooking methods or presentation properly, you need to understand the origins of th

From elegant New York brasseries to stylish particular cuisine. You also need to know the best
Sydney restaurants, Asian food has come a long way of getting the most out of your ingredients. As
way since the American take on Chinese food, chop many good cooks will tell you, if you do the basics


suey, or soupy, flavorless curries made with lots of properly, the rest will follow. Once you understan

curry powder and nothing else. These days, mod- why a certain ingredient is tempered with anothe


ern cooks around the world use fresh cilantr or used in conjunction with something else, you

(coriander) with the same confidence as rosemary; can then play and let your imagination (and taste-




add lemongrass and kaffir limes to their tomat buds) take you to new taste sensations.
broths; and, with their family and friends, want t Let The Food of Asia be your guide through





eat their food spicier and spicier. Chopsticks ar diverse selection of cuisine from China, India,

8 I THE FOOD OF ASIA IL-______ ------------------------------------------------------------



Burma (Myanmar), Sri Lanka, Japan, Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, the ingredients called for in The Food of Asia are readily available
Singapore, Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam, Because the coun- from your local Asian grocery store, and it is worth your while
tries covered here encompass a diverse geography and climate, from searching out a good one and befriending the people who run it-
the temperate to the tropical, all the cuisines are quite distinct, they will be a rich source of advice and hints on how best to prepare
despite the similarity in cooking techniques and some ingredients, your purchases. Many Asian food stores these days have an extensive
All, however, emphasize freshness and flavor; in Asia, they believe range of fresh greens and vegetables, and they do not have to be used
that good eating is essential to good living. only in the Asian way.
Many of the popular favorites from each country are represented Try to use the best of what's in season and don't be afraid to
here: the gorgeous red and green curries of Thailand, invigorating experiment. For instance, there is no reason why you can't serve
Vietnamese pho, fluffy Indian breads, cleansing sushi and sashimi Chinese broccoli in place of conventional broccoli with your next leg
from Japan, and incendiary laksa and noodle soups from Malaysia of lamb, or use coconut milk instead of milk to make a creme
and Singapore. There are simple dishes that require just a little caramel, or serve steamed baby bok choy instead of green beans with
cooking and no complicated techniques, making them ideal for a traditional roast chicken. You may also like to try smearing tan-
day-to-day use in the home. For the confident cook, there are more doori paste over a rack of lamb for a change of pace, or baste the
complex dishes that are guaranteed to impress family and friends at next chicken you roast with green curry paste, and serve it with
your next diqner party or Sunday lunch, and taste delicious too! roast potatoes and a crisp green salad. The recipes are meant to be a
Most of the dishes are readily adapted to a Western-style table, and guide and not a constraint! Frequently, ingredients may be substitut-
hints and tips have been included as to how best to serve them. ed for each other without compromising on authenticity-just make
Common to the tables of all these countries is grain, which holds sure you do try the recipe as it is set out at least once though. If you
pride of place during a meal, as distinct from the Western table are attempting a recipe for the first time, it is very important that you
where the meat component or main course is the height of the meal. read the recipe all the way through to the end to make sure you have
In most tropical countries located on or near the equator such as the right equipment and ingredients to hand. With much Asian
Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, and Indonesia, plain steamed rice cooking, the time-consuming work is in the preparation. After the
is the staple. However, be warned: there is rice and there is rice, and
they are not always interchangeable. The Chinese prefer the fragrant Below: The men in this Chinese tea-
long-grain jasmine rice, the Japanese a starchier short-grain variety. house have gathered to gossip as much
as to drink tea. Right: Like modern
The Thais and Indonesians often serve glutinous rice to mop up their Japanese culture, Japanese food is a
curries. The Indians favor the basmati. As you venture above the striking blend of the old and the new.
equator, preference is frequently given to
wheat, whic):J. may be served in the form of
noodles, buns, or pancakes.
Another characteristic of Asian food is
its dependence on the humble soybean and
its by-products. Bean curd (tofu), soy sauce,
bean curd wrappers and bean paste sauces
are used in dishes from China to Indonesia,
with a little tweaking to local tastes.
And then there is the noodle ... whether
it be flat, round, dried, fresh, or is made of
egg, buckwheat, mung bean, potato starch,
wheat or ground rice, the Chinese love
affair with noodles has left its mark on
other Asian cuisines. The machines and
factories have taken over from the hand-
pulled noodles that the Chinese were par-
ticularly famous for, but there is no denying
the versatility of the end product. In Asia
they are stir-fried or pan-fried, or used in
soups, salads, and spring rolls, or eaten
with a sauce. They can be eaten as part of ingredients have been cleaned, chopped and sliced, the cooking
a meal or be a meal in a bowl, eaten at all times of the day, from process itself is usually fairly simple and straightforward.
breakfast to supper. A comprehensive, illustrated glossary (see pages 10-17) has
Asian cooks demand-and receive-the very best there is on been included to help you demystify and use some of the knobbly
offer from their local markets and suppliers, a hangover from their tubers and jars of brown stuff you may find in food stores. There is
agricultural heritage perhaps, or because supermarkets were few and also a chapter on cooking implements and a few simple techniques
far between until recently. The ingredients have to be of the freshest to help you prepare Asian food. Despite the advent of modern
quality: the vegetables just picked, the fish just out of the water, the methods and gizmos in Asian kitchens, some traditional implements
chicken just caught. This ingredient is then quickly cooked, usually are still regarded as irreplaceable. Not all kitchens, for instance, have
in a simple manner that would allow the essence of the produce to cookers complete with an oven, as most cooking is done on the top of
shine through. a stove. Many Asian kitchens are functional rather than aesthetic,
Please do not be wary of the foreignness of some of the ingredi- with meals cooked over an open fire. In urban areas, gas rings fuelled
ents used in this book; remember that the now-ubiquitous ginger by LPG are increasingly used.
and scallions (spring onions) had to start somewhere too! Most of Measurements in this book are given in volume as far as possible.

Of course you may like to
serve a series of Asian dishes for a
Western-style dinner, where the
dishes come out sequentially (as
opposed to all at once). The recipes
in this book have been structured
with this in mind, into categories
such as appetizers, soups, salads,
main courses, and desserts for ease
of use. You may need to increase
the quantities of the main dishes
slightly if you are not planning to
serve rice or bread with the meal.
A number of suggested menus-
for family meals, dinner parties
Top, main picture: This Balinese ritual should help ensure etc-are included in each chapter
a plentiful crop of rice. Above: In Indonesia, you're never to help you plan your meals.
too young to contribute to the family dinner table. Right:
An array of succulent offerings at a Singaporean banana- Most diners in Asian countries
leaf restaurant. drink tea throughout a meal.
Spirits are also popular, especially
A conversion guide has been included on page 188 for your conve- at formal dinners and banquets. But there's no reason why you can't
nience. Unless otherwise stated, these recipes will serve four to six drink your favorite red or white wine if you are eating Asian food-
people as part of a shared meal of two to three dishes with rice. with some judicious tasting you will soon find out which goes best
The Asian table is a communal table. All dishes, with the excep- with what.
tion of dessert, are usually presented at once and served with rice. We hope The Food of Asia will inspire you, with its pictures,
Diners help themselves to whatever they want and to as much as words and delicious recipes, to prepare these luscious dishes at
they desire. There will usually be a soup, followed by or accompanied home. It will also let you gain a better understanding of the wonder-
with one or two meat dishes and a vegetable dish. Dessert, especially ful cuisines of the region and give you many years of happy eating.
in a domestic situation, is almost always sliced fresh seasonal fruit. And don't forget to have fun in the kitchen!

10 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ______________________________________________________________ ___

















Asafoetida Bamboo Shoots Banana Blossom Horapa Basil



Ingredients










Most of the ingredients called for in this book are readily found at
Chinese or Asian grocery stores or some supermarkets.

















4I13enitade Bonito Nigella Candlenuts


AGAR-AGAR A setting agent derived from seaweed which hardens Fresh shoots are sweet and crunchy. Peel. slice and boil for about
without refrigeration. used for cakes and desserts. It comes in 30 minutes before adding to dishes. Soak and boil dried shoots
long strands or in powder form; 1 teaspoon of powder sets 1-11/2 before use. If using canned bamboo shoots. drain and boil in
cups liquid. To use. sprinkle powdered agar-agar over liquid and fresh water for 5 minutes to remove the metallic taste.
bring it gently to a boil. stirring until dissolved. BANANA BLOSSOM The flower bud of the banana plant. Slice
ANCHOVIES, DRIED Most are usually less than 1 in (21/2 cm) long. finely and use as garnish for noodle soups or in salads.
and used to season many Malaysian and Indonesian dishes. BANANA LEAVES Used primarily for wrapping sweetmeats.
Discard the heads and any black intestinal tract before using. sausages. and pates before cooking. The leaves preserve moisture.
Sometimes sold as "silver fish". and impart a mild fragrance to the food.
ANNATTO SEEDS The dark reddish-brown seed of the "lipstick BASIL Three varieties are used in Thailand. The most common vari-
plant." commonly used as a coloring agent. The seeds are fried in ety. horapa. is fairly similar to European and American sweet
oil to extract an orange color and discarded. The oil is used for basil. and used liberally as a seasoning. "Lemon basil" or manglak
cooking. is added to soups and salads. Kaprow. sometimes known as "holy
ASAFOETIDA A strong-smelling gum derived from a Persian plant basil". is stronger in flavor and has purplish markings. Basil is
believed to aid digestion. Use sparingly. known as daun selasih or kemangi in Indonesia.
ASAM GELUGUR, DRIED Slices of a sour fruit (Garcinia atnoviridis) BEAN CURD Widely used in Thai. Chinese. Malaysian. and Japanese
used in place of tamarind pulp in some Malay and Nonya dishes; cuisines. The most common variety is called "cotton" or momen
the latter can be used as a substitute. tofu. Use this unless otherwise specified. "Cotton" bean curd is
EGGPLANT Known also as aubergine or brinjal. this vegetable is generally sold packed in water in containers and is firmer and
much smaller and thinner throughout Asia than its Western easier to handle than fine-textured "sill{en" bean curd. which
counterpart. Japanese eggplants are often no more than about is often available in plastic trays or rolls (cut with a sharp knife
4-8 in (10-20 cm) long. The Thais also use a rather bitter pea- while still in the plastic so it keeps its shape).
sized eggplant and the apple variety. Use slender Asian or Deep-fried bean curd or aburage is available in plastic
Japanese eggplants for all recipes in this book- they are less bit- bags and should be rinsed in boiling water to remove excess oil
ter and have a better texture. They do not need salting before use. before using. A grilled beancurd (yakidofu). which has a speckled
BAMBOO SHOOTS Used fresh. vinegared or dried in Asian cookery. brown surface. is also sold in plastic bags. Small cubes of dried

_________________________________________________________________________ ~I INGREDIENTS I 11

















Carambola Caterpillar Fungus Chilies





deep-fried bean curd are added to slow-cooked dishes and some dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit juice or tamarind juice are
soups. Fermented bean curd (nam yee), sold in jars and either red good substitutes.
or white in color, is used in small amounts as a CARDAMOM About 15- 20 intensely fragrant brown-black seeds
seasoning in Chinese dishes. are enclosed in a straw-colored pod. Try to buy the whole pod
BEAN CURD SKIN The skin that forms on top of soybean milk rather than seeds or powder for maximum flavor. Bruise lightly
when it is brought to a simmer, skimmed off and dried. with the back of a cleaver to break the pod. More common are
Reconstitute the sheets in warm water before using as a wrapper small, greenish or straw-colored pods containing a dozen or so
or in braises. The stuffed skins can be deep-fried, simmered or tiny, intensely aromatic black seeds. Large black cardamom pods,
sauteed. which are at least six times the size of the green, are used in
BEANSPROUTS Sprouted green mung peas are eaten blanched in some northern Indian dishes.
some salads and soups, or quickly stir-fried as a vegetable. Pinch CAROM Carum ajowan comes from the same family as cumin and
off the straggly tails just before use if desired. parsley. Known as carom or bishop's weed in the West, it is called
BELIMBING See CARAMBOLA ajwain in India. The flavor is similar to caraway with overtones of
BENITADE Decorative maroon-colored sprouts with a slight pep- thyme.
pery taste. A popular Japanese garnish. Substitute with alfalfa CATERPILLAR FUNGUS Neither a caterpillar nor a fungus, these
sprouts or very finely shredded red cabbage. dried pods (Cordyceps sinensis) are used in Chinese dishes for their
BE SAN Flour made from Bengal gram or channa dal, sometimes medicinal value.
referred to as gram flour. Used to make a batter for vegetables or CELERY The celery used in Asia is much smaller than the Western
fish, or to thicken and add flavor to Indian dishes. variety, with slender stems and particularly pungent leaves.
BITTER GOURD A firm gourd that looks like a fat, knobbly, green Often known as "Chinese celery" and used as a herb rather than
cucumber. It has a crisp texture and a strong, bitter flavor. vegetable, it is added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fries.
Remove the seeds and inner membrane before cooking. Slice Substitute with regular celery leaves.
thinly if using in salads, or cut into thiclc chunks for stuffing. CENTURY EGGS Duck eggs coated with a mixture of powdered
BLACK BEANS, SALTED Fermented salted black soy beans, a lime; rice husks and salt and left to cure for several months. To
common seasoning for fish and beef. Sold in packets or tins, they use, peel off the shell and quarter or chop the eggs, which have a
can be kept for several months if stored in a covered jar in the translucent black albumen and greenish-grey yolk.
fridge. Rinse before use to remove excess salt. CHILI Many different varieties of chilies are used in Asia. The flavor
BLACK MOSS FUNGUS A fine, hair-like fungus valued in Chinese of fresh and dried chilies is different, so be sure to use the type
cooking. Soak in warm water until pliable before using. specified in the recipes. Large, finger-length green (unripe) and
BLACK SAUCE, SWEET A thick, treacle-like sauce used in fresh red (ripe) chilies are usually moderately hot.
spring rolls (popiah). In India chilies are used fresh only in their unripe green
BONITO, DRIED With dried kelp, an essential component of state. The majority of ripe red chilies are dried and a large
Japanese stock or dashi. Shaved bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi) are percentage ground to make chili powder. Cut or break dried
now available in plastic packs. chilies into pieces and soak in hot water for about 10 minutes to
BOXTHORN BERRIES Oval red berries sometimes known as wolf soften before grinding or blending. If you want to reduce the
berries, prized by the Chinese for their medicinal properties. Used heat without losing flavor, discard some or all of the seeds.
in soups. The main types of chili used in Thailand, Malaysia and
BURDOCK The root of the burdock plant, popular in Japanese Indonesia include the normal finger-length red or green chili;
cuisine. Scrape off the skin and place into water to stop it discol- tiny but fiery-hot bird's-eye chilies (which may be red, green or
oring until ready to slice or shred. Fresh and tinned burdock are yellowy-orange) and dried red chilies. Be careful to wash your
available from Japanese stores. hands thoroughly after handling chilies-use rubber gloves if
CANDLENUT A waxy, cream-colored nut similar in size and shape possible.
to a macadamia, which can be used as a substitute (although CHILI OIL Dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, used to
less expensive almonds or cashews will also do). It is ground and enliven some Sichuan dishes.
used to add texture and a faint flavor to Malay and Nonya CHILI PASTE Pounded chilies, sometimes mixed with vinegar,
dishes. Do not eat raw. Store in the fridge. sold in jars. The heat varies from brand to brand. Sichuan
CARAMBOLA A pale-green acidic fruit about 2-3 in (5-8 cm) long chili paste is made from dried chilies, soaked and ground with
that grows in clusters. A relative of the starfruit, carambola is a touch of oil.
used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to soups, curries, fish CHILI POWDER Made from finely ground dried chilies. Do not

12 1 THE F 00 D 0 F A S I A IL-__________________ ____________ _



confuse with American chili powder, which is a blend of a with another 21/2 cups of water to obtain thin mille Combine
variety of seasonings. both lots of milk for the coconut milk called for in this book,
CHILI SAUCE Chilies mixed with water and seasoned with salt, unless thick milk is specified. Coconut milk can be frozen; thaw
garlic, sugar, and vinegar, sold in bottles and jars. Some sauces and stir thoroughly before use.
are sweeter than others, and others may have added flavorings The best substitute for fresh coconut milk is instant
like garlic or ginger. coconut powder, sometimes sold under the name "santan".
CHINESE CABBAGE The three most common types are white Follow the instructions on the packet. Use tinned coconut cream
cabbage (bai cai or in Cantonese, bok choy), which has white for desserts and cakes.
stems and bright green leaves and is often sold in immature form; CORIANDER Widely used in Asian cooking. Thais use the whole
long white or "celery" cabbage, which has long pale green coriander plant: leaves, seeds, and roots. The roots are pounded
leaves and white celery-like stems; and round cabbage. together with garlic and black pepper to make a common basic
CHINESE RICE WINE Wine made from fermented rice used in seasoning. The seeds are roasted and ground for spice blends,
cooking. Wine from Shaoxing, generally considered the best, is and the leaves, known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, are eaten as
available from Chinese food stores. Dry sherry is a substitute. a vegetable or used as a herb.
CHINESE SAUSAGES Thin, sweet Chinese pork sausages that are CORNFLOUR Known also as cornstarch, this fine white powder is
delicately perfumed with rice wine. Used as a seasoning rather widely used to thicken sauces. Mix cornflour with water, stir and
than eaten on their own. They will keep almost indefinitely add to the pan. Cook, stirring constantly for a few seconds, until
without refrigeration. the sauce thickens.
CHIRON}I NUTS Small brownish nuts that look a little like large CUCUMBER Japanese cucumbers are short, roughly 1 in (21/2 cm)
sunflower seeds, sometimes ground with other nuts, such as in diameter, and have a sweeter flavor and better texture than
cashews or almonds, or with white poppy seeds to enrich some large cucumbers. Lebanese cucumbers are an ideal substitute.
dishes. The flavor is similar to that of hazelnuts. Substitute with CUMIN Pale brown to black fragrant seeds that look similar to
a mixture of hazelnuts and almonds. caraway. Frequently partnered with coriander in spice mixtures
CHIVES "Chinese", "coarse" or "garlic" chives have dark green flat and curry pastes.
leaves about 12 in (30 cm) long. They are used as a vegetable CURRY LEAF Sprigs of these small, dark green leaves with a distinc-
and as a herb. The flavor is stronger than normal chives. tive fragrance are often used in Indian curries. A sprig is about
CHOKO An oval-shaped squash that looks like a light green 8-12 individual leaves. Dried curry leaves are milder, but a more
cucumber, with a small white seed inside. Peel before using as a satisfactory substitute than daun salam or bay leaves.
vegetable. Zucchini is a substitute. CURRY POWDER Various spices are ground together to form curry
CHRYSANTHEMUM LEAVES Enjoyed as a vegetable for their powders. Certain spice combinations are appropriate to different
distinctive flavor and bright green color. Spinach leaves can be basic foods, and curry powders labelled "fish", "chicken" and
used asa substitute. other more specific dishes such as "korma" or "rendang" should
CILANTRO See CORIANDER. be used for that particular purpose only. Curry powders are often
CINNAMON True cinnamon comes from the fragrant bark of a tree blended with water to a stiff paste before being fried. For
native to Sri Lanka, and is lighter in color, thinner and more maximum freshness, store in a jar in the freezer.
expensive than cassia bark, which is often sold as cinnamon. DAIKON: see RADISH, GIANT WHITE
Powdered cinnamon is not a substitute. DAL Also" dhal". Refers to dried legumes, usually husked and split.
CLOUD EAR FUNGUS Sometimes known as wood fungus, this Varieties include channa dal or Bengal gram, which resembles a
crinkly greyish-brown dried fungus swells to many times its small yellow pea and is often sold split; moong dal, a small green
original size after soaking in warm water for a few minutes. They pea; urad dal or blackgram dal, which is sold either with its
have little flavor but are prized for their texture. black skin still on or husked; masoor dal (salmon-pink lentils);
CLOVES A small, brown, nail-shaped spice that emits a floral, spicy toor, tuvar or arhar dal, a pale yellow lentil which is smaller
fragrance. Used in spice blends. than the Bengal gram; and kabuli channa or chickpeas, also
COCONUT Widely used in Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, known as garbanzos.
Philippines, and Indonesia, not just for cooking but also for palm DASHI A stock made from dried kelp and dried bonito flakes, the
sugar, alcohol, housing, utensils, and charcoal. The grated flesh basis of Japanese soups and sauces. Instant dashi granules
is often added to food; it is also squeezed with water to make (dashi-no-moto) are sold in glass jars in Japanese stores.
coconut milk. To make fresh coconut milk, put the flesh of a DAUN KESUM This pungent herb (Polygonum hydropiper) has long,
grated coconut into a bowl and add 1/ 2 cup lukewarm water. pOinted green leaves tinged with purple. Used in Vietnamese table
Squeeze and knead for 1 minute, then squeeze handful by hand- salads and other Asian dishes.
ful, straining into a bowl to obtain thick mille Repeat the process DEVIL'S TONGUE A greyish-brown mass made from a starchy root

















Chinese Sausages Cloud Ear Fungus

____________________________________________________________________ ~I INGREDIENTS I 13


known as devil's tongue (konnyaku). It is sold in plastic packets press, or wrap in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice.
and used in Japanese soups, one-pot cookery and to make Depending on the age of the ginger (young ginger is far more
noodles called shirataki konnyaku. Keep refrigerated. juicy), you will obtain 1- 2 tablespoons of juice. Pickled ginger
DRIED MANGO POWDER Dried and ground unripe mangoes, used (benishoga or gari), sometimes dyed red, is sold in jars and widely
to give a sour tang to some Indian dishes. If unavailable, use a used as a garnish. Slender pink young ginger shoots are also
squeeze of lemon juice. pickled and sold in jars.
FENNEL Only the seeds are used in Asian cooking. The spice smells GINSENG A highly prized medicinal root, sometimes used in cook-
of aniseed, and looks like a larger, paler version of cumin. Used ing. Available from Chinese medicine shops.
to add a sweet fragrance to Malay and Indian dishes. GREEN PEPPER, JAPANESE Tiny slender green peppers which
FENUGREEK These almost square, hard yellowish-brown seeds are have none of the spiciness of green chilies. Eightjapanese pep-
strongly flavored and generally used whole in southern Indian pers are the eqUivalent of a green capsicum. The latter is closer
dishes and frequently in pickles and fish curries. Fenugreek in taste to Japanese peppers and makes a better substitute than
leaves are eaten as a vegetable and because of their rather bitter seeded green chilies.
taste, are combined with other greens or potatoes. Substitute HOISIN SAUCE A sweet sauce made of soya beans, with spicy and
with spinach if fenugreek leaves are not available. The dried garlicky overtones. Used to season meat and served as a dipping
leaves (methi) are sometimes used as a seasoning. sauce. Refrigerate the jar after opening.
FISH SAUCE The distinctive nam pIa, made from salted, fermented HORSERADISH See WASABI
fish or prawns, is used in Thai and Vietnamese marinades, dress- IKAN BILlS See ANCHOVIES, DRIED
ings and dipping sauces. Good quality nam pIa is golden-brown in JACKFRUIT A large, green fruit with a tough, knobbly skin. The
color and has a salty, pungent flavor. segmented flesh is sweet and perfumed when ripe. In Vietnam,
FIVE-SPICE POWDER A Chinese spice combination of star anise, young jackfruit, which is whitish in color, is used as a vegetable.
Sichuan peppercorns, fennel. cloves and cinnamon. A very JAGGERY A crude sugar popular in Sri Lankan cookery most
strong seasoning, so use in small amounts. commonly made from cane sugar and the sap of coconut or
GALAN GAL A member of the ginger family, used in Thai, Malay palmyrah palms. Southeast Asian palm sugar makes an
and Nonya dishes. Peel off the tough skin before pounding or acceptable substitute, or use soft brown sugar.
slicing. The young, pinkish galangal is the most tender and JASMINE ESSENCE The heady perfume of fresh jasmine flowers,
imparts the best flavor. Slices of dried galangal (sometimes sold soaked overnight in water, adds a unique fragrance to many Thai
under the Indonesian name, laos) must be soaked in boiling desserts and cakes. Substitute bottled jasmine essence.
water for about 30 minutes until soft before use. Jars of tender, KAFFIR LIME Also known as fragrant lime, this citrus fruit has
sliced galangal packed in water from Thailand make an adequate intensely fragrant skin but virtually no juice. The grated skin or
substitute for the fresh root. As a last resort, use the powdered rind is added to food, while the fragrant leaves are used whole in
form (1 teaspoon = 2.5 cml 1 in). soups and curries, or shredded finely and added to salads. Round
GALAN GAL, LESSER A white, ginger-like rhizome believed to have yellow-skinned limes slightly larger than a golf ball (jeruk nipis)
medicinal properties. Do not confuse with the fragrant greater and small, dark green limes (jeruk limau) are used in Indonesia
galangal used in Southeast Asia. Omit if unavailable. and Malaysia for their juice. Use lemons if limes are unavailable.
GARAM MASALA An Indian blend of several strongly aromatic KALE Known also as gai Ian, this vegetable is enjoyed for its firm tex-
spices designed to add flavor and fragrance to meat dishes. ture and emphatic flavor. Only the leaves and tender portions of
Powdered garam masala can be bought from stores specialiSing in the stems are eaten. Peel and halve lengthwise if they are thick.
spices. Store in a jar in the freezer. Broccoli stems are a good substitute.
GARLIC Widely used as a flavoring and for its medicinal qualities. It KANGKONG See WATER CONVOLVULUS.
is often pounded or pureed before use in curries. Garlic cloves are KELP See SEAWEED
often much smaller in Southeast Asia than in Western countries, KENARI A soft, oily nut found in Maluku; the almond is the closest
so adjust to taste. substitute.
GINGELLY OIL A light oil made from unroasted sesame seeds, quite KEN CUR KaemJeria galanga is sometimes incorrectly known as lesser
different in flavor from Chinese sesame oil. It adds a distinctive galangal; the correct English name is zedoary. Kencur has a
touch to Indian pickles. unique, camphor-like flavor, so use sparingly. Wash and scrape
GINGER This pale, creamy yellow root is widely used not just to sea- off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur (sometimes spelled
son food but for its medicinal properties. Always scrape the skin kentjoer) or kencur powder are substitutes. Soak dried slices in
off fresh ginger before using, and do not substitute the powdered. boiling water for 30 minutes; use 1/2-1 teaspoon of powder for
Store in a cool. dark place. To make ginger juice, finely grate 2.5 cm (1 in) fresh root.
about 8 cm (3 in) fresh ginger. Squeeze it little by little in a garlic KINOME Their refreshing, minty taste makes the leaves of the


















Curry Leaf Galangal Kaffir Lime Kinome

14 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~I ________________________________________________________________ __

















Shiitake Mushrooms Golden (enokitaki) Mushrooms Dried Mushrooms

prickly ash a popular garnish. Available in Japanese stores, they red miso, which has a reddish-brown color and an emphatic
will keep refrigerated for about 1 week, or use watercress. flavor, and white miso, which is actually golden-yellow in color,
KRACHAI This rhizome, sometimes referred to as "lesser ginger", has a lighter flavor and is less salty than the red variety, making
looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. Enjoyed for its it ideal for soups and dressings. Plastic bags or tubs of miso are
mild flavor and crunchy texture. Dried i<rachai is a poor substi- generally sold in Japanese or health-food stores.
tute; omit if the fresh is unavailable. MITSUBA Both the stems and leaves of this decorative herb, a
KRUPUK Also known as prawn crackers, these dried wafers made member of the parsley family, are used in Japanese cuisine.
from tapioca flour, prawns or fish are a popular snack and gar- Parsley makes an acceptable substitute, although the flavor of
nish. Dry thoroughly and deep-fry in oil until they puff up and mitsuba is more like celery.
become crisp. MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG) Some cooks in Asia make
LADIES' FINGERS See OKRA. use of this taste enhancer. If you use only top quality ingredi-
LAKSA LEAF See DAUN KESUM ents, there should be no need for MSG.
LEMONGRASS A lemon-scented plant that grows in clumps. Use MORNING GLORY See WATER CONVOLVULUS
only the bottom 2- 4 in (5-10 cm) portion. If it is to be pounded MUNG BEANS Husked, dried green mung beans are known as
or blended to a paste, discard the outer leaves and use only the yellow mung beans. Sprouted beans have a subtle flavor and a
pale, tender part. Or bruise the stem before adding to stews. slight crunchiness. In Vietnam, yellow beans are used to make
Also available in fresh, frozen, dried and powdered form. About yellow bean sauce or other sauces. The starch from the beans is
1 teaspoon powdered equals one stalk. processed into cellophane noodles.
LILY BUDS, DRIED The Chinese call these "golden needles" MUSHROOMS DRIED Black (shiitake) mushrooms are prized in
because they are thin and golden in color. They are usually Japanese and Chinese cooking for their flavor and texture. Soak
knotted for a neater appearance and added to Chinese and in warm water for 15-20 minutes before use and discard the
Burmese soups or vegetable dishes. No substitute. fibrous stems. Do not substitute with European dried mushrooms.
LIME Various types are used. Large limes are about the size of a Fresh shiitai<e are increasingly available outside Asia.
small egg with a greenish-yellow skin, and have a tart flavor Fresh and delicate sheathed straw mushrooms are excel-
similar to lemons. Small green limes, frequently known as lent in soups and vegetable dishes. Buttou mushrooms and
i<alamansi, are about the size of a walnut and have a less acidic, the large, bland oyster variety are good for stir-frying. Golden
more fragrant juice. These are preferred for squeezing over mushrooms (enoi<itai<i) , clusters of slender cream-colored stalks
noodle dishes and into sambals. See also KAFFIR LIME. with tiny caps, are available fresh and tinned - discard the tough
LOOFAH A gourd with an earthy flavor, often used in Vietnamese ends before use.
soups. Any type of gourd can be substituted. Reddish-brown nameko mushrooms have a slippery texture
LOTUS The tumescent root has a delicious crunchy texture and attractive reddish-brown cap; they are more commonly found
and decorative appearance when sliced, making it a popular in jars or tins. See also CLOUD EAR FUNGUS.
vegetable and garnish in Japanese and Chinese cooking. Its seeds MUSTARD OIL Oil made from ground mustard seeds is used as a
are used fresh for sweets or dried in stews. Soak dried lotus nuts cooking medium in some parts of India, particularly in Bengal.
in boiling water for 1 hour, peel, and poke out the central core The oil gives a distinctive flavor to the food and is worth looking
with a thin skewer or toothpick. (Canned lotus nuts normally for in Indian grocery stores. Substitute any refined, flavorless
have this core already removed.) vegetable oil.
MACE The lacy orange-red covering or aril of the nutmeg seed. Used MUSTARD SEEDS Both yellow and brownish-black mustard seeds
in spice mixes and garam masala for flavoring sweet and savory are used in Indian cuisine. They are not interchangeable.
dishes. For maximum flavor, grind as required. NIGELLA Often referred to as onion seeds, these small, black seeds
MINT Peppermint and spearmint are often used in salads and as fla- are known as i<alonji in India. Omit if not available. If speCified
vor accents. See also DAUN KESUM. for Indian breads, substitute with black sesame seeds.
MIOGA BUD This pretty pale pink bud with green tips, a member of NOODLES Both fresh and dried noodles made from either wheat
the ginger family, is used for its spicy flavor and appearance in flour, rice flour or mung bean flour are used in Asian cooking.
some Japanese dishes. No substitute. The most popular types are fresh yellow or "Hokkien" noodles,
MIRIN A bottled sweet rice wine used in Japanese cooking. If mirin spaghetti-like noodles made from flour and egg; dried wheat-
is not available, use 1 teaspoon sugar as a substitute for 1 table- flour noodles, plunged into boiling water to soften; fresh flat
spoon mirin. rice-flour noodles, ribbon-like noodles about 1 cm (liz in)
MISO A protein-rich salty paste of fermented soya beans, the main- wide, used in soups or fried; fresh laksa noodles, which look
stay of Japanese soups. Many different types are available, vary- like white spaghetti; dried rice-flour vermicelli, sometimes
ing in taste, texture, color and fragrance. The most common are known as rice-stick noodles; and dried mung bean noodles,

__________________________________________________________________ ~I INGREDIENTS I 15
















Palm Sugar Pandan Leaf Sato-imo Potato Giant White Radish


generally used in soups and sometimes referred to as "glass", nutty flavor and used as a thickening agent. Soak in warm water
"jelly" or "transparent" noodles. for 10-15 minutes and grind before use. Substitute with cashews
In Japan the wheat noodle, "don, comes in various widths or almonds.
and is either flat or round. Packets of dried udon, whitish-beige in POTATO Yamato-imo, often referred to as a potato in Japan, is
color, are readily available in Japanese stores. Somen are also actually a type of mountain yam which is grated and used
made from wheat, but are very fine and white in color. Soba are raw for its gluey texture and bright white color. Sato-imo is
made from buckwheat, and are sometimes flavored with green a type of yam with a much finer texture and slightly different
tea. Devil's tongue is used to make shirataki konnyaku-soak in flavor from Western potatoes. New potatoes make an acceptable
hot water until they swell and become transparent. substitute.
NORI See SEAWEED PRAWNS, DRIED see SHRIMPS, DRIED
NUTMEG A native of the Moluccan islands, the nutmeg is actually RADISH, GIANT WHITE A vegetable about 6-10 in (15-25 cm)
the seed of a fleshy fruit. Try to purchase whole if possible and long, widely used in Japanese cooking. Daikon is shredded and
grate as required. used raw as a garnish, sliced for stews and stir-fries, and pickled.
OIL, COOKING Blended vegetable oils (never olive oil) are used by Preserved salted radish keeps almost indefinitely on the shelf, and
Chinese cooks for frying. Peanut oil is sometimes specified for its is often added to rice porridge (congee) and other dishes.
distinctive flavor. RED BEANS Dried red azuki beans are used in Chinese and Japanese
OKRA A green, ridged vegetable about 2 1/2-8 in (7-20 cm) long, sweets, or cooked with sugar to make red-bean paste, a popular
favoured by Indians and Southeast Asians as a vegetable. Has a filling for buns and pancakes. The paste is also sold in tins.
mucilaginous quality. Also known as ladies' fingers. RED DATES Valued for their medicinal properties as well as their
ORANGE PEEL, DRIED Dried orange peel is added to slow-cooked prune-lil(e flavor, these are added to soups. Soak in boiling water
dishes for flavor. Although usually available in Chinese stores, for 1 hour to soften before use.
fresh peel can be used as a substitute. RICE Many types of rice are eaten throughout Asia, the most popu-
OYSTER SAUCE A thick sauce made from ground oysters, water, lar for daily meals being fragrant long-grain jasmine rice. Some
salt, cornflour and caramel coloring, used primarily to flavor stir- Indian recipes call for the nutty-flavored basmati rice. White
fried vegetables and meat. It is commonly used in Chinese cook- and brownish-black glntinous rice are used in sweet and savory
ing. Refrigerate after opening. Look for MSG-free brands. dishes. The absorbency of rice is affected by its age - young rice
PALM SUGAR Made by boiling down the sap of various palm trees, absorbs less water than older rice. When you use a new packet of
usually sold in solid cakes or cylinders and varies in color from rice, be conservative when adding water until you find out its
gold to light brown. If unavailable, substitute with soft brown degree of absorbency.
sugar or a mixture of brown sugar and maple syrup. To make Wash rice thoroughly in several changes of water before
palm sugar syrup, combine equal amounts of chopped palm using. To make plain rice, measure a minimum of 1/2 cup of rice
sugar and water (add a pandan leaf if it is available). Bring to the per person and wash thoroughly. Put into a heavy-bottomed pan
boil, simmer for 10 minutes, strain and refrigerate. with enough water to cover the rice and come up to the level of
PANDAN LEAF A fragrant member of the pandanus or screwpine the first joint on your forefinger (about 3/4 in or 2 cm). Cover the
family, pandan leaf is used to wrap seasoned morsels of chicken pan and bring to the boil over high heat. Set the lid slightly to
or pork, and added to various cakes and desserts. Bottled pandan one side, lower heat slightly and simmer until all the water is
essence can be used as a substitute in sweets. absorbed and dimples or "craters" appear in the top of the rice.
PAPADS Also known as poppadum, these wafer-thin discs of Reduce heat to the absolute minimum, cover the pan and leave
seasoned wheat and lentil flour crisp up when fried in hot oil. the rice to cook for at least another 10 minutes. Remove the lid,
Dry thoroughly before frying. fluff up the rice with a fork (do not stir before this), wipe any
PEPPERCORNS Thought to be native to the Malabar coast of India, condensation off the lid and cover the pan. Set aside until
peppercorns are generally sold black (with their skins intact) and required. The rice should keep warm for at least another
are frequently added whole to dishes. If crushing or grinding, do 15-20 minutes.
so just before use for maximum flavor and freshness. Short-grained rice with a somewhat sticky texture is used
PLUM SAUCE Sold in tins or jars, this piquant reddish-brown condi- in Japan. Do not serve fragrant Thai or basmati rice with
ment is made from salted plums, chilies, vinegar and sugar. Japanese food.
Refrigerate after opening. Available from Chinese stores. RICE PAPER Made from a batter of rice flour, water and salt, then
POMELO A citrus somewhat similar to grapefruit, the pomelo is steamed and dried in the sun on bamboo racks. Moisten with a
drier, sweeter and has a much thicker and tougher peel. It is little tepid water before using to make Vietnamese rolls.
eaten as a fruit or broken up for salads. RICE WINE See CHINESE RICE WINE
POPPY SEEDS Tiny white poppy seeds are prized for their delicate ROCK SUGAR Crystallized cane sugar, sold in chunks in boxes.

16 I THE FOOD OF ASIA


Added to Chinese red-braised dishes, desserts and drinks. mono are used in Japanese cooking. White sesame seeds are
ROSE ESSENCE A heady fragrance from the Middle East, used in toasted and crushed to make a paste; if you don't want to do this
Malay desserts, drinks and some Indian rice dishes. yourself. you can buy either a Chinese or Japanese brand of
SAFFRON The world's most expensive spice, actually the dried sesame paste. Middle-Eastern tahina has a slightly different flavor
stigma of a type of crocus. Infuse saffron strands in warm milk as the sesame seeds are not toasted.
before adding to rice and dessert dishes. Store saffron in the SESAME OIL Added to some Chinese dishes-usually at the last
freezer as it loses its fragrance quickly. minute-for its fragrance and flavor, but never used on its own
SAGO PEARLS The pith of the sago palm that has been ground to a as a frying medium.
paste and pressed through a sieve. It is very glutinous, with little SESAME RICE CRACKERS Thin crackers made from rice flour
taste, and used in Asia for desserts. sprinkled with sesame seeds. Grill or lightly bake before serving.
SAKE Popular as a drink, sake or Japanese rice wine is available in and use like a cracker for dipping. Prawn crackers or puffed rice
many different qualities and is an important cooking ingredient. crackers may be used as a substitute.
It is almost always heated to get rid of the alcohol for Japanese SEVEN-SPICE POWDER A mixture of different spices and flavors.
cuisine. A bottle of sake will keep for about a month after open- shichimi contains sansho. ground chilies. hemp seeds. dried
ing. If red sake is not available, use regular sake. orange peel. nori flalces. white sesame seeds and white poppy
SALAM LEAF A subtly flavored leaf of a member of the cassia seeds. Shichimi togarashi contains chili. Both are available in
family, infused in curries. If you cannot obtain fresh or dried leaf, bottles in Japanese stores.
omit altogether. SHALLOTS Small, round and pinkish-purple. shallots add a sweet
SALTED FISH Salted and sun-dried freshwater fish that do not onion flavor to sambals and curries. Packets of deep-fried shallots
require soaking before using. Grill whole or cut into fine slices are generally available in Asian supply stores. If they lose their
and fry to a crisp, and serve as a condiment. Salted fish is also crispness. scatter in a large baking dish and put in a very low
sometimes pickled. oven for a few moments to dry thoroughly. Cool before storing.
SALTED CABBAGE Various types of heavily salted cabbage are used Indonesian shallots are smaller and milder than those found in
in some Chinese and Nonya dishes; the most common is made many Western countries.
from mustard cabbage. Soak in fresh water for at least 15 min- SHARK'S FIN Transparent threads of dried shark's fin (generally
utes to remove excess salt, repeating if necessary. sold in packets) are highly valued for their gelatinous texture and
SALTED DUCK EGG A popular accompaniment to rice and savory added to soups or sometimes cooked with egg. Soak in boiling
Malay dishes. Wash off the black coating (often added to protect water for about 30 minutes to soften before use. Shark's fin is
the egg), boil for 10 minutes, then cut egg in half while still in also available canned.
the shell. smso The tangy, attractive green leaves of the Perillafrutescens or
SALTED SOYA BEANS Salty and with a distinctive tang, these are beefstealc plant. related to the mint family. are a common garnish
often lightly pounded before being used to season fish, noodle in Japan. There is no substitute for the flavor of shiso leaf. The
or vegetable dishes. Varieties packed in China are sometimes flower is often used as a garnish. and the tiny seeds for cooking. If
labelled "Yellow Bean Sauce". Mash slightly before using. the seeds are not available. omit as there is no good substitute.
Sichuan brands contain additional chili. Keeps indefinitely SHRIMP PASTE Known variously as /<api. trasi. and belacan. A
on the shelf. dense mixture of fermented. ground shrimp used extensively
SANSHO A peppery powder made from the seeds of the prickly ash, in Southeast Asian cooking. There are many different types.
available in small glass bottles in Japanese stores. The dried ranging in color from pink to blackish-brown. The former is good
Sichuan pepper is an exact substitute. for curry pastes. the latter for making dipping sauces. Shrimp
SCALLION Also known as spring onion, this popular herb is often paste should be cooked before eating; if the recipe you are using
used as a garnish and to add flavor to many dishes. It has slender does not call for it to be fried together with other ingredients.
white stalks with dark green strap-like leaves. either grill or dry-fry the shrimp paste before pounding. To grill.
SEAWEED Used extensively in Japan. Dark green dried kelp or wrap a piece of the paste in a piece of foil and toast under a grill
konbu is an essential ingredient in basic stock or dashi. It is sold in or dry-fry in a pan for about 2 minutes on each side.
packets. Wipe clean with a damp cloth but do not soak before SHRIMP SAUCE, BLACK A very thick syrupy paste. usually sold in
using. Other varieties include a fine golden kelp (shiraita konbu), jars or plastic tubs. with a strong shrimp flavor. It is commonly
mozuku, which are hair-like shreds, small squares of salted added to rojak. a fruit and vegetable salad. and Penang laksa.
dried kelp (shio-kobu). and laver (nori). which is dried and sold SHRIMPS, DRIED Small dried shrimps or prawns are a popular
in very thin. dark green sheets. Wakame is sold either dried or in seasoning in many Asian dishes. particularly in sauces. condi-
salted form in plastic bags. Reconstitute by soaking in water. ments (sambaIs), and vegetable dishes. Choose dried shrimps that
SESAME Both black and white sesame seeds. the latter more com- are bright pink in color. and soak in warm water for about
















Seaweed-Kelp (left) and Wakame (right) Shallots Shrimp Paste Star Anise

______________________________________________________________________ ~I INGREDIENTS I 17



5 minutes to soften before use. TARO A barrel-shaped oval root. with hairy. brown skin and white
SICHUAN PEPPER A round. reddish-brown berry with a flesh with purple-brown fibers, which can be used like a potato in
pronounced fragrance and flavor. used primarily in Sichuan soups. The tubers are best eaten when the fibers are small and
cuisine and as an ingredient in five-spice powder. It is also known barely noticeable.
as prickly ash or fagara. and often sold powdered under the TEMPEH Cakes of compressed. lightly fermented soy beans with a
Japanese name sansho. nutty flavor. Often available in health food stores. No substitute.
SOUR PLUMS Salty pickled plums (umeboshi) are very popular with TURMERIC A bright yellow-orange tuber from the ginger family,
plain rice for breakfast in Japan. as they are believed to aid diges- turmeric is often used in curries and as a coloring agent. It is
tion. These dull-red plums are available in jars. and should be also used for medicinal purposes. Peel before using. Substitute
refrigerated after opening. 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder for 1/2 in (1 cm) fresh.
SOY SAUCE Three types are used in Chinese cooking. Light soy VIETNAMESE MINT: see DAUN KESUM
sauce is thinner. lighter in color and saltier than black soy VINEGAR Black. red and white Chinese vinegars are all made from
sauce. which is often added to give a dark coloring to a dish. rice, and as the flavor differs. be sure to use the type speCified.
Delicately flavored red soy sauce is seldom used and can be sub- Red vinegar has a distinctive tang. while full-bodied black
stituted with light soy sauce. vinegar. sometimes known as Tientsin vinegar. has a faint flavor
For Japanese food. use the Kikkoman brand. Tamari is very similar to balsamic vinegar. Use sparingly as a seasoning or dip.
strong, thick and black and available from Japanese stores; dark Japanese rice vinegar makes an acceptable substitute for the
soy sauce is a reasonable substitute. white. There are no good substitutes for red and black vinegar.
In Indonesia. thick sweet soy sauce (kemp manis) is most Slightly diluted cider vinegar can be used in place of rice vinegar.
frequently used as a condiment. followed by the thinner. saltier WAKAME See SEAWEED
light soy sauce (kemp asin). If you cannot obtain kemp manis, WASABI Indispensable in Japanese cuisine. and widely available
use thick black Chinese so¥ sauce and sweeten with brown sugar. in tubes. Wasabi powder (available in tiny tins). mixed with a
SPRING ONION See SCALLION. little water 10 minutes before required, gives a much closer
STAR ANISE A sweet-smelling star-shaped. eight-pointed pod with a approximation of the freshly grated root.
pungent flavor of aniseed or licorice. Frequently used in soups. WATER CHESTNUT Although it is troublesome to peel away the
STARFRUIT A star-shaped fruit. eaten raw and finely sliced. Young dark brown skin of this crunchy tuber. it's well worth using fresh
starfruit has a tart taste and is often served on the Vietnamese water chestnuts if you can find them. Their crisp texture and
vegetable platter as a complement to grilled or fried foods. sweet flavor make them ideal in salads. stir-fried vegetable dishes
SUGAR CANE Fresh sugar cane juice-extracted from the stalks by and desserts. Fresh yam bean is a better substitute for fresh water
a crushing machine-is a very popular drink in Vietnam. In chestnuts than the canned variety.
addition to the familiar uses of sugar cane, the peeled stalks are WATER CONVOLVULUS This aquatic plant. a member of the con-
also used as skewers in cooking. volvulus or morning glory family, is sometimes known as
TAMARIND A large. brown pod with several seeds. tamarind has a kangkong or water spinach. The arrowhead-shaped leaves and
tangy, acidic taste. and is a popular sour flavoring. It can be tender tips are usually stir-fried. Discard the tough. hollow stems.
bought fresh, dried or in pulp form, and is most commonly sold Young shoots are often served as part of a mixed platter of raw
in compressed blocks. with the seeds removed. The paste is used vegetables for dipping into hot sauces.
in hot and sour soups. and fresh crab dishes. To make tamarind WHITE FUNGUS A crinkly golden-colored dried fungus that turns
juice, add 1 part pulp to 3 parts hot water for 5 minutes before transparent after soaking. Prized for its chewy texture, and used
squeezing to extract the juice. Discard the seeds and fibrous mat- in Chinese soups and desserts.
ter before using. WILD GINGER BUD The pink waxy flower from a ginger plant.
TAPIOCA The root of this plant (also known as cassava) and the sometimes known as torch ginger (EtIingera elatior). Used in some
tender green leaves are both eaten. though the leaves have to be Malay and Nonya dishes. No substitute.
cooked for at least an hour to remove the mild toxins. The root is YAM BEAN Known as jicama in the Americas, where it originated,
grated and mixed with coconut and sugar to make sweetmeats. this crunchy. mild tuber has a crisp white interior and beige skin,
Fermented tapioca root is added to some desserts, while the dried which peels off easily. It taste like a potato and apple cross.
root is made into small balls and used in the same way as pearl Excellent raw with a spicy dip. and can be cooked.
sago. Substitute spinach for tapioca leaves. YUNNAN HAM A smoked salted ham used mainly as a se.asoning.
TAPIOCA STARCH Used as a thickening agent, and sometimes in It is sold in tins.
the making of fresh rice papers. Combined with rice flour. it adds YUZU ORANGE An orange-colored citrus fruit used for its fragrant
a translucent sheen and chewiness to pastries. Available in many rind. Lemon or lime rind could be used as a substitute, or else
Asian food markets. kaffir lime.

















Turmeric Water Convolvulus Wild Ginger Bud

The traditional
open hearth or
irori is virtually a
museum piece in
Japan today

______________________________________________________________ ~I THE ASIAN KITCHEN I 19
















Spoons made of
coconut shells or wood
are put to countless A bamboo rolling mat is indispens-
uses in the Indonesian able in a Japanese kitchen. Granite mortar and pestle.
kitchen.
The Asian







Kitchen














You do not need a range of exotic implements to not scratch when metal scoops are used.
cook Asian food. Perhaps that is the most surpris- A wok should be "seasoned" before its first use
ing aspect of Asian cooking-that often sophisti- so that food will not stick. Wash the inside of the
cated food is prepared with so few utensils! Most wok with warm soapy water but do not use a
of the implements found in the average Western scouring pad. Rinse with fresh water and dry thor-
kitchen can be adapted for use in Asian cooking, oughly. Put some oil on a paper towel and wipe the
although several items, such as a wok or rice inside of the wok. Repeat until the paper towel
cooker, will make the preparation and cooking comes away clean. Chinese cooks always heat the
of certain dishes much easier. Far more time is wok before adding oil to be sure that it is dry and
usually spent on the preparation of the ingredients, the oil will not splatter. After cooking, never clean
which have to be peeled, chopped, grated, ground, your wok with detergent or harsh abrasives; just
and blended before the cooking begins. You rinse it with warm water and wipe dry. Remember
should be able to obtain most of the implements to buy a lid for your wok-invaluable for when you
mentioned here from Asian grocery stores. want to steam food and for finishing off dishes.
In India, the kadai, a large wok-like utensil, is
used for frying and sauteing. The kadai is made of
Cooking Implements iron, brass or aluminium, and slightly deeper than
Perhaps the most essential ingredient in the Asian a wok, but the latter makes an excellent substitute.
kitchen is the wok-known as a kuali in Malaysia For rice and curries, a flat-lidded, straight-sided
and Indonesia-a deep, curved pan traditionally pan known as a degchi is used, but a good heavy-
made of cast iron and used for just about every- based pot will do.
thing except cooking rice: stir-frying, deep-frying, To partner your wok, a frying spatula, as well
braising, making sauces, steaming, and so on. The as a perforated ladle for lifting out deep-fried
shape of the wok distributes the heat evenly, while food, are useful. Chinese cooks use a round-edged
its sloping sides ensure that food falls back into the spatula for tossing stir-fried ingredients in the wok.
pan and not over the edge during stir-frying. It's Indonesian cooks use an assortment of wooden or
also practical for deep-frying, requiring less oil coconut husk spoons for stirring.
than a conventional saucepan or skillet. It allows Other useful utensils include a wire mesh
just the right amount of evaporation for many basket on a long handle, good for scooping out
dishes which begin with a large amount of liquid deep-fried food or boiled noodles. Chinese cooks
and finish with a thick sauce. When choosing a also use a pair of long wooden chopsticks for
wok, avoid aluminium or Teflon-coated types; a turning over food during deep-frying, although
heavy cast-iron wok that won't tip over easily is this requires a certain dexterity, only acquired with
preferable, or best of all, a non-stick alloy that will practice. You may be happier with tongs.

20 I THE FOOD OF A S I A















The multi-purpose wok Traditional Indian grinding slab Chinese claypot for slow cooking





Extremely high heat is needed when stir-frying food in a wok, In addition to the usual knives found in any kitchen, a usefu



and many electric cookers cannot achieve the ideal heat. Malaysia implement used by traditional Asian cooks is a narrow, double-blad-

cooks—especially Chinese—insist on at least one gas fire, often wit ed knife for carving vegetables into decorative shapes, and slicing
a double ring of gas jets. If you are using an old-style electric cooker fruit and vegetables thinly for the various rolls and wraps.
which cannot reach a very high heat nor be reduced in temperature If the thump-thump of the stone, granite or porcelain morta


quickly, you should consider investing in a gas-fired ring to be used and pestle is not for you, blenders, food processors, and coffe
with your wok. grinders make light work of the pounding, grinding, and blending of
Almost any saucepan can be used for cooking Asian dishes, but spices and seeds. It's essential that all the ingredients to be made int

take care to choose one that has a non-reactive lining, since many a paste be finely chopped before blending. Whether using a mortar

dishes contain acid such as tamarind or lime juice. Non-stick and pestle, blender or food processor, the principle is to grind or




saucepans are ideal for Asian food as they avoid the problem of blend the toughest ingredients first, adding softer and wetter ingredi-
spices sticking on the bottom and allow you to use less oil when fry- ents towards the end. First grind any dried spices or nuts until fine

ing. Claypots of various shapes and sizes, with a sandy outside and then add hard ingredients such as chopped-up lemon grass and
a glazed interior, are used for slow cooking and for making soups and galangal. Pound or process until fine, then add softer rhizomes suc


stocks. These are attractive and inexpensive, but any type of as fresh turmeric and ginger, soaked dried chilies and sliced fres

saucepan can be used. chilies. When these are minced, add the ingredients that are full of

Rice was usually cooked in an aluminium or a stainless stee moisture, such as chopped shallots and garlic, and soft shrimp paste.

saucepan, although most homes in the cities now boast an If you are using a food processor or blender, you will probably


electric rice cooker—a great boon if you eat rice fairly often. It's need to add just a little liquid to keep the blades turning. If the spice
foolproof, produces dry fluffy rice every time, and also keeps rice blend is to be fried, add a little of the specified amount of cooking oil.

warm for latecomers. Alternatively, use a heavy saucepan with a If it is to be cooked in coconut milk, add some of this. While process-
firm-fitting lid ing, you will probably need to stop the machine frequently to scrape


Steaming is a healthy method of cooking in Asia, and a multi- down the sides. Continue until you have a fine paste.
tiered bamboo steamer with a plaited cover to absorb any moisture Some cooks add water rather than the cooking medium to the
(unlike a metal cover where moisture condenses and falls on the blender; this means that the spice mixture will need to be cooked for
food) is invaluable. If you are using a multi-tiered metal steamer, put a longer period of time before adding the other ingredients, to allow
a tea towel under the lid to prevent moisture from dripping back ont the water to evaporate and the mixture to fry rather than stew



the food. The steaming basket is placed inside a wok on a trivet abov The multi-purpose banana leaf is often used in Southeast Asi


boiling water. Chinese stores also sell perforated metal disks that sit to wrap food in for grilling, steaming, or placing directly onto hot

inside a wok above the water level; these are useful for steaming coals. If you are able to obtain banana leaf, wipe it clean and cut to



single plate of food. Cover the wok with a lid and keep the water leve the required size. Hold it directly over a gas flame or plunge in boiling

topped up and at a gentle simmer during steaming water until it softens before wrapping the food. Aluminium foil is

Just as indispensable as a wok is the cleaver, which comes with generally recommended as a substitute, but for a texture that is

either a heavy rectangular blade about 3-4 in (8-10 cm) deep, ideal closer to that obtained by using the leaf, wrap food in greaseproof
for cutting through bones, or a lighter weight blade for chopping, paper first, then in the foil.
slicing, mincing, bruising garlic cloves and scooping up food on the In Japan, bamboo baskets are used for draining noodles (a

flat edge to carry to the pan. A cleaver does the work of a whole colander or sieve makes an adequate substitute). Bamboo mats
battery of knives in a Western kitchen. You will also need a strong available in speciality Asian stores, are useful for rolling rice inside
chopping board wrappers of seaweed, rolling up Japanese omelets and for squeezing

Traditional pottery is
still used in Indonesia
kitchens
Old stove with a
griddle or tawa
for cooking
chapati.
Wooden mortar and pestle

________________________________________________________________ ~I THE ASIAN KITCHEN I 21
















A lined copper kadai
Bamboo steamer for frying and sauteing. Traditional coconut scrapers


the liquid out of cooked vegetables. beforehand to prevent them from burning). Most of the dishes in this
The Japanese grater. usually made of porcelain or bamboo. is book can be cooked under a domestic grill or over a barbecue. Baste
perfect for grating ginger or horseradish. since it breaks down the with some of the marinade as you cook. In Korea. where grilled
fibres beautifully. marinated beef is a national dish. many families have their own
Indian and Sri Lankan breads are rolled out with a wooden table-top grill on which to cook bulgogi and galbi ribs.
rolling pin on a flat circular stone slab or wooden board. and cooked Braising involves cooking food over a low heat in flavored
on a heavy iron griddle or tawa. A heavy cast-iron skillet or griddle liquid for a long time. and is ideal for tougher cuts of meat and some
makes a good substitute. vegetables. To red braise meat is to cook it in dark and light soy
Coconut graters are essential in Asian countries. They are sauces. star anise or five-spice powder. Chinese cooking wine. and
sometimes available in Western countries. sugar.
Poaching is carried out in water or stock that is barely simmer-
ing. The liquid should only just cover the meat which must be fished
Cooking Techniques out as soon as it is ready.
The general cooking techniques used in Asian cookery are not too To blanch. bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and immerse
different from those used in the West. the food-usually vegetables-in small batches. Cook until they are
The most common cooking method is probably stir-frying. tender but still crisp.
which is fast cooking over a high heat in oil. usually in a wok. Evenly Many Indian. Sri Lankan. Indonesian. Malaysian. and Thai
sliced ingredients are tossed about constantly; contact with the heat dishes involve the use of spices. and as each spice takes a different
from the sides as well as the bottom of the wok means that food amount of time to release its flavor and aroma. it is important to
cooks very rapidly. sealing in the juices and flavor. Timing is follow the correct order given when adding spices to the pan. Many
absolutely crucial to the success of stir-frying. so chop all ingredi- spices need to be dry-roasted before use. It is best to do this in a
ents. measure all the seasonings. and have the garnishes and serving heavy cast-iron pan without oil. Watch the heat carefully. shaking
dishes at hand before starting. frequently so that the spices do not catch. For maximum flavor and
Deep-frying involves cooking food by immersing it totally in aroma. buy whole spices and grind them just before cooking.
heated oil. For best results. cook the food in small amounts so that When cooking with coconut milk. it is important to prevent it
the temperature of the oil does not drop too much. The optimum from curdling or breaking apart. Stir the milk frequently. lifting it up
temperature for deep-frying is 37 5-400°F (190- 200°C). Properly with a large spoon or ladle and pouring it back into the saucepan or
deep-fried food is not greasy at all-usually the result is a crisp wok while it is coming to the boil. Once the coconut milk is simmer-
exterior and a moist. succulent interior. Drain well on paper towels ing. be sure never to cover the pan. Thick coconut milk is sometimes
before serving. added at the final stages of cooking to thicken and enrich the flavor
Steaming is a cooking technique much prized by the Chinese of the dish. Stir constantly while heating but do not allow to boil.
and Japanese. The gentle cooking is an excellent method for show- Cooking rice is a subject that often arouses controversy. and if
casing the freshness of the produce. since all the natural flavors are you have a reliable method. stick with it. Whatever method is used.
retained. Make sure the water level in your steamer or wok is always first wash the rice thoroughly to remove any impurities and excess
topped up when you're steaming. starch until the water runs clear. The absorbency of rice depends
Grilling is another popular cooking technique. and it is hard to on the variety of rice and its age. with older rice absorbing more
imagine Indonesia. Malaysia. and Singapore without their variations liquid. Cooking times depend on the type and weight of your
on satay. or Vietnam without its sugar-cane prawns. The meat to be saucepan. and the heat of your cooker. See page 15 for a recipe
grilled is placed on skewers (remember to soak the skewers in water for plain rice.


Thai woven storage
baskets are as attractive
as they are practical.











Traditional Indonesian rice steamer Long-handled scoops

"Full of flavor,
healthful, sometime
hauntigly Similar t
neigh-boring cuisines,
at other times dra-
matically different
the food of Burm
is not complex to
prepare at home.

________________________________________________________________________ ~I BURMA I 23






















The undiscovered treasures of this land of gold and
gems are its culinary delicacies.


























Left: A farmer winnows
paddy in the Shan
Plateau. Rice is the staple
crop in Burma.
Right: The weekly floating
market at Ywama village,
Inle Lake, is a colorful
affair.


Burma, "The Land of Gold" of ancient Indian Although religion and tribal customs influence
and Chinese manuscripts, has one of the Asia's the cuisine of the people of this polyglot land-in
least known cuisines. This is more a result of the which today's specialists have identified 67 sepa-
country's long period of self-imposed isolation than rate indigenous groups-it is perhaps the terrain
the intrinsic quality of the food itself. However, as and climate, which have had the greatest effect on
Burma-or Myanmar as it is now officially called- regional cuisines. These factors determine the
opens its doors to visitors and international busi- basic produce and therefore influence the dishes
ness, more people are discovering its intriguingly prepared by the people living in each area. The
different cuisine. Burmese tend to classify their country into three
broad areas: what used to be referred to as "Lower
The Land and its People Burma," the humid Ayeyarwady delta around
Burma's beginning dates back some 2,500 years, Yangon, and the land stretching far south into the
when Tibeto-Burman-speaking people moved from Isthmus of Kra; "Middle Burma," the central zone
Tibet and Yunnan into the northern part of the around Mandalay, ringed by mountain ranges and
country. Kingdoms rose and fell over the centuries, thus the driest area in all of Southeast Asia, and
many different tribes arrived and established them- "Upcountry," the mountainous regions which
selves. The British gained control over the country include the Shan Plateau and Shan Hills to the
little by little, annexing it to British India in stages, east, the Chin Hills to the west and the ranges
until the last king was dethroned in 1886. Burma frequented by the Kachin tribe to the far north.
regained its independence in 1946, becoming a The long southern coastal strip of "Lower
socialist republic in 1974. In 1979, the ruling Burma," Tanintharyi, is washed by the waters of
authorities changed the name to Myanmar. the Andaman Sea and shares a border with

24 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L______________________________________________________________ __
I


Thailand. This region is rich in all kinds of seafood, which is under- The food of Myanmar has, perhaps, more in common with its
standably preferred to meat or poultry. While people in other areas of Southeast Asian neighbors, Laos and Thailand, than with India.
Myanmar eat freshwater fish caught in the rivers, lakes and irrigation The use of fermented shrimp and fish products such as dried paste,
canals, this coastal region offers a cornucopia of marine fish, crabs, fermented fish in liquid, and clear fish sauce has parallels in both
squid, shrimps, lobsters, oysters, and shellfish. Laos and Thailand, where these ingredients largely replace salt
Flowing in a general north-south direction for some 1,349 miles, and give a characteristic flavor to many dishes. The sour fruit
the life-giving Ayeyarwady rises in the mountains of the far north, of the tamarind tree, most commonly used in the form of a
then branches into a maze of rivers and creeks that make up the dried pulp, is often preferred to vinegar or lime juice in many
delta- about 168 miles at its widest. This is the rice granary of the Burmese dishes.
nation. Rice is the staple crop in Myanmar and is consumed not Coconut milk, so prevalent in the cuisine of Southeast Asia, is
only for the main meals of the day but for snacks as well. It is eaten also used in many Burmese dishes and for sweetmeats, while agar
boiled, steamed and parched; in the form of dough or noodles; drunk agar- a setting agent from seaweed-is also popular in Burmese
as wine or distilled as spirits. A combined coastal length of about desserts and drinks.
1,492 miles and a network of rivers, irrigation channels and estuar-
ies, particularly in the Ayeyarwady delta region, yields a dazzling
array of fresh- and saltwater fish, lobsters, shrimps, shrimp, and At the Burmese Table
crabs. The Ayeyarwady delta supplies the bulk of freshwater fish, sold Breakfast in Myanmar is traditionally a light repast of fried rice, or
fresh, dried, fermented or made into the all-important ngapi, a dried yesterday's rice warmed up, served with boiled garden peas and
fish or shrimp paste (similar to Thai kapi, Malaysian belacan and green tea. Many delicious alternatives are now becoming popular
Indonesian trassi). though. Breakfast today could take the form of steamed glutinous
Mandalay, where the last king of Burma ruled, is the cultural rice topped with roasted sesame seeds and fish or vegetable fritters;
heart of the fiercely hot, dry plains of central Myanmar. Irrigation smoked dried fish; mohinga, thin rice noodles in fish soup; or ohn-no
has made it possible to expand agriculture from dry rice (which kyaukswe, wheat flour noodles in chicken and coconut gravy. Rice
depended on seasonal rain for its growth) to include crops such as gruel garnished with chunks of fried Chinese dough sticks might be
peanut, sorghum, sesame, corn and many types of bean and lentil. gulped down, as might naan, flat bread fresh from the tandoor oven,
Various fermented bean or lentil sauces and pastes are used as sea- with either boiled garden pea salad or lamb bone soup. Alternatively,
sonings in this region, rather than the fermented fish and shrimp a steaming chickpea broth or a chicken curry might provide the
products typical of the south. Not having access to fresh seafood, morning's sustenance.
the people of the central plains generally eat freshwater fish, with The main meal is not served in courses as in the West. All the
the occasional dish of pork or beef. dishes, soups, condiments and vegetable dips are arranged in the
The most populated "upcountry" area of Myanmar is the Shan
Plateau, a region of mountain ranges and wide fertile valleys with middle, with a large bowl of rice for second helpings placed on the
side. Meat and fish dishes are usually prepared in the form of curries,
a mean altitude of 3,443 feet above sea level. adjoining China,
with fish dishes being much more popular in the lands bordering the
Laos and Thailand. A wide variety of food is grown here: rice, wheat, lower reaches of the Ayeyarwady River and the delta region, while
soya beans, sugar cane, niger seed, sunflowers, maize, and peanuts;
and vegetables including potatoes, cabbage, cucumber, cauliflower, up country palates are partial to beans and pulses and their various
celery, eggplant, hops, kale, kholrabi, lettuce, mustard, rape, roselle, by-products. Most curries are prepared with a thin gravy, which is
tomatoes, and chayote. Soups from this region are more lil(ely to then drizzled over the rice, mixed in and eaten with the fish or
be based on beef or pork stock than made with fish or dried shrimps. vegetables and fish preserve.
The soups are not as clear as those found elsewhere in Myanmar, Soup is almost always served during the course of a meal and
as they are often thickened with powdered soya bean. One example helps wash down the rice. It may be a hingga, meaning hot peppery
of this is the Shan version of Burmese noodles (kyaukswe), which soup, or a hincho, a slightly milder concoction. The soup is usually
is based on pork in a soup thickened with powdered soya bean, a clear broth with leaves, buds or slices of fruit. On more formal
rather than made with chicken and coconut milk as in the rest of occasions, a thicker broth of fish and vegetables is served with rice
the country. noodles. Vegetable and fruit salads are very popular. Some of the
heavier salads, such as a rice-based "salad," can be eaten either as
snacks between meals or as meals in themselves.
A Unique Cuisine Evolves No meal would be considered complete without the condiment
Poised between two culinary giants, India and China, and inspired by ngapi, or to use its full name, ngapi-seinsa: fish, or sometimes shrimp,
the ingredients and styles of Southeast Asia, the cuisine of Myanmar boiled and garnished with crushed garlic, toasted dried chilies and
has developed a unique personality of its own. China has had a marked chili powder.
impact on the food of Southeast Asia, including that of Myanmar. After a meal. fruits such as banana, mango, pomelo, and durian
Noodles made from wheat, rice and mung peas are perhaps the most are usually eaten in lieu of cooked desserts, which tend to be eaten
noticeable legacy of China. In Myanmar, these are found in noodle as snacks throughout the day. As a special treat, lephet, or fermented
soups like mohinga, a spicy, fish-based dish with sliced banana heart tea leaf salad, might be served. The main ingredient of this unusual
that is virtually the national dish. Another widely available dish is salad is fermented tea leaves; these are then mixed with, or accompa-
chicken in spicy coconut gravy, ohn-no kyaukswe, which includes nied by, peanuts, roasted sesame seeds, fried garlic, coconut, and
either wheat, rice or mung pea ("transparent") noodles. ginger slices, and so on. Though it may seem unusual to serve a
The Indian influence on Myanmar food is seen in the widespread savory dish after the main meal. this is when lephet is often eaten;
use of ingredients such as chickpeas, coriander seeds, cumin, and though you may find it served as a first course in Burmese restaurants
turmeric. But whereas Indian cuisine relies on a complex blending of in the West.
spices, Burmese food uses only a few dried spices, adding extra flavor
with many fresh seasonings and condiments.

SUGGESTED MENUS


Family meals Dinner parties Finger food A melting pot menu
For a simple yet satisfying family For a fun Burmese-style dinner The following snacks and Enjoy a culinary tour of Asia at
meal. try serving with steamed party, serve: appetizers may be eaten your dining table with:
white rice and a Fish Sauce Dip • Pumpkin Soup with Basil throughout the day, even as • Shrimp Mousse on Sugar Cane
(page 29): (page 26), desserts: (page 1 77) from Vietnam as
• Rice Noodles in Fish Soup • Grilled Eggplant Salad • Fermented Tea Leaf Salad an appetizer;
(page 27); (page 26); (page 26), which is also • Pork and Mango Curry
• Hand-tossed Salad (page 26); • Burmese Crab Curry (page 28); served after a meal in (page 28) from Burma
• Catfish in Tamarind Sauce • Pork and Mango Curry Burma; and Shrimps with Sweet
(page 28); (page 28). • Transparent Savory Rice and Sour Sauce (page 159)
• Fresh fruits such as mango • Sesame-topped Semolina Cake Pancakes (page 29). from Thailand with plain
rice;
or papaya, with Coconut (page 29). • Mango Jellies (page 134) from
Malaysia for dessert.















THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF BURMESE COOKING

Indispensable to the Myanmar pantry are garlic, ginger, and cilantro (coriander) leaves. A good supply of fresh jasmine rice is a must
and glutinous rice would be useful for some dishes. Flavorings you'll need include fish sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Fresh chilies
and dried chili flakes are a common addition to dishes as are dried shrimps and shrimp paste. Fermented tea leaves are easily found
at all Burmese foodstores and come ready packed with all the extras making for a great, instant Burmese snack.

26 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ____________________________________ ~I APPETIZERS, SOUPS & SALADS


While Burma has long been only the thumb and first two 2 tablespoons chopped roasted Grilled Eggplant
renowned for its natural beauty, fingers of the right hand, deli- peanuts Salad
its culinary treasures have cately serve themselves. Finger 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
remained a well-kept secret bowls would be provided. 2 bird's·eye chilies, finely sliced
until recently. The country has Today, most Burmese combine 2 teaspoons fish sauce
absorbed the culinary influences all the ingredients in a bowl and 2 tablespoons chopped
of its neighbors to make its mix them thoroughly as with a cilantro (coriander) leaves
food even more unique. conventional salad.
Grill eggplants over
charcoal flame till
skin lightly charred;
Lephet Thoke Shwepayon Hincho alternatively, bake or
Fermented Tea Leaf Salad Pumpkin Soup with Basil cook under grill
(broil) till soft. Cool,
Lephet is an everyday part of 1 tablespoon oil discard skin and
Burmese social culture. Lephet is 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped mash the flesh.
served to welcome guests to a 1 Ib 6 oz (700 g) peeled, seeded Heat oil in wok, add
house, as a peace offering after and cubed pumpkin garlic and deep-fry
an argument, as a snack in 4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock till crisp. Remove with
front of the television, as a palate Salt and pepper to taste slotted spoon and retain oil.
cleanser after a meal, and even 1/2 cup chopped Thai basil Place the eggplant, onion, For main ingredients, boil pota-
as a stimulant to ward off sleep (horapa) leaves (substitute with garlic, peanuts, sesame, chili, and toes till done. Drain beancurd
during all-night Burmese opera. European basil) fish sauce in a salad bowl. Add cakes and dry with paper towel.
Instant, packaged Lephet Thoke 1 teaspoon of the garlic-infused Slice each one in half then cut
is now readily available from Heat oil in pan and lightly saute oil and mix well. Garnish with each half into 9 pieces to yield
Burmese shops. garlic for 5 minutes till fragrant. cilantro. 36 cubes. Heat oil, add beancurd
Add pumpkin and chicken and deep-fry over medium-high
4 tablespoons /ephet (fermented stock to the pan and bring to heat for 5 minutes till golden on
tea leaves) a boil. Cover and simmer for all sides. Remove with slotted
3 cloves garlic, sliced and deep· 20 minutes till pumpkin is Let Thoke Sone spoon and set aside. Knead chilies
fried till crisp tender. Transfer to a blender Hand-tossed Salad into cooked rice to color it.
1 bird's·eye chili, finely chopped and process till smooth. Return For garnishes, heat oil in pan
2 tablespoons dried shrimps, the soup to the pan and add salt Main Ingredients and fry onion and garlic till
soaked and blended to and pepper to taste. Add chopped 4 small potatoes, peeled and cubed crisp. Remove and set aside,
powdery fluff fresh basil just before serving. 2 pressed (firm) beancurd cakes retain the oil. Saute chili flakes
2 tablespoons roasted peanuts (about 10 ozl300 g), soaked by spooning the retained hot oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 1/4 cup (60 ml) oil for deep-frying onto the chili flakes in a separate
2 teaspoons lime juice Khayanthee Thoke 1/2 cup (75 g) cooked rice bowl and set aside (if chili flakes
are placed directly into very hot
2 teaspoons fish sauce 1 large red chili, finely chopped
Grilled Eggplant Salad 1 cup (200 g) fresh egg noodles, oil, they will burn immediately).
1 tablespoon peanut oil
blanched Stir and strain tamarind water,
Traditionally, lephet is served in 2 large eggplants (aubergines) 1 cup (80 g) transparent vermicelli, discard solids. Add bird's-eye
a lacquer container with differ- 2 tablespoons finely sliced onion, soaked 2 minutes and boiled chili and sugar syrup to tamarind
ent compartments for each soaked in water 3 minutes water and set aside.
ingredient. Diners then choose 6 cloves garlic, sliced 1 cup (20 g) shredded cabbage To serve, arrange all main
their ingredients and, using 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 cup (80 g) beansprouts, ingredients on a large plate.
blanched Place each of the garnishes in
Pumpkin Soup with Basil
1 cup (150 g) shredded green individual bowls. Take a small
papaya handful of each item from the
1 medium tomato, peeled and main ingredients. Then sprinkle
chopped on a little of each of the garnishes
1 cup (160 g) peeled and shredded and mix thoroughly by hand.
cucumber

Garnishes
2 tablespoons peanut oil Monlar 00 Thoke
1 medium onion, finely sliced Daikon Salad
12 cloves garlic, finely sliced
2 tablespoons chili flakes This easy-to-prepare and
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp refreshing salad can be eaten as
soaked in 1/2 cup (125 ml) water a starter or as an accompaniment
3 bird's-eye chilies, finely sliced to curries and rice.
1 teaspoon sugar syrup
4 tablespoons dried shrimps, soaked 3 tablespoons rice vinegar
and blended to powdery fluff 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons roasted pea flour 1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons fish sauce 1 large daikon radish (long white
1/2 cup chopped cilantro (coriander) Oriental radish) (about lib, or
leaves 450 g), peeled and finely sliced

SOUPS & NOODLES I L __ ~ ________________________________________________ ~I BURMA I 27




1 small onion, sliced 1 small onion, finely sliced and
9 cloves garlic, finely chopped fried with a pinch of turmeric Ngephe Gyaw Ohn-no Kyaukswe
3 tablespoons peanut oil
till crisp Fried Fish Cakes Coconut Noodles
2 tablespoons peanuts
Split-pea Crackers (see below),
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
crumbled 1 Ib (500 g) featherback fish 1 Ib (500 g) boneless chicken,
1 teaspOon fish sauce
Fried Fish Cakes {see below} (substitute with cod, kingfish cubed
2 tablespoons chopped ci lantro
3 scallions (spring onions), sliced or flounder) 6 tablespoons fish sauce
(coriander) leaves
1/2 cup chopped cilantro {coriander} 1 clove garlic 1/4 cup (60 mil oil
Mix rice vinegar, salt, and sugar leaves 1 teaspoon ground ginger 3 tablespoons ground onion
in a salad bowl and whisk till 4 limes, quartered 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 tablespoon ground garlic
salt and sugar are dissolved. Fish sauce 1/4 teaspoon sa It 1/2 tablespoon ground ginger
Add the radish, toss and chill for Chili flakes 1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
IS minutes. Soak the sliced onion Water to moisten fingers 1 tablespoon chili flakes
in cold water for 5 minutes and To make stock, place all ingredi- 1 cup {250 mil oil for deep-frying 1/2 cup (50 g) chickpea flour
drain. Fry the chopped garlic in ents in large pan and boil. 1 cup (250 mil water
oil over high heat till golden, Reduce heat, cover and cook for Fillet the fish, flake the flesh and 7 cups (P/4 liters) chicken stock
remove with a slotted spoon 20 minutes. Remove fish, flake transfer to a mortar. Add garlic 11/3 cups (330 mil coconut milk
and drain on paper towel. flesh and set aside. Strain stock and ginger and pound to a
(Discard oil or retain for use in and discard solids. paste. Add turmeric, salt and Garnish
another dish). Dry-roast the To make the soup, add rice chili flakes and continue to 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
peanuts in a pan, cool and grind powder to water, stir and set pound for 10-15 minutes. 1 medium onion, soaked and
finely. When ready to serve, aside. Blend chilies, onion, gar- Roll the mixture into 3-in finely sliced
remove the radish mixture from lic, ginger and lemongrass to a (7-cm) long "sausages", 1/2 cup chopped cilantro {coriander}
the refrigerator and drain excess paste. Heat oil in a pan and moistening fingers to help leaves
liquid. Add remaining ingredients saute chili paste with turmeric shape the mixture. Heat oil in 2 limes, quartered
and toss well. till fragrant. Stir in fish, then pan, add several of the "fish 1 Ib (2 kg) fresh egg noodles,
add salt, pepper, fish sauce, and sausages" at one time (not too blanched in boiling water
whole shallots and continue to many as they expand). Deep-fry 12 oz (350 g) fresh egg noodles,
cook for 5 minutes. Add banana deep-fried in 1 cup {250 mil oil
Mohinga stem, stock, and rice powder for 5 minutes till golden brown. till crisp, drained on paper
Rice Noodles in Fish Soup water. Bring to a boil, stirring to Remove and drain on paper towel, cooled and crumbled by
towel.
prevent lumps forming. Boil for hand into bite-sized pieces
Stock IS minutes, reduce heat and 7 tablespoons chili flakes
2 Ib (1 kg) whole catfish simmer for 20 minutes. Fish sauce
5 stalks lemongrass, bruised Arrange all garnishes on the
1 teaspoon turmeric powder table, add a little of each to a
4 tablespoons fish sauce bowl then add. Add a drop or Rice Noodles in Fish Soup
8 cups (2 I iters) water two of the fish sauce and chili
flakes to taste.
Soup
3/4 cup (150 g) raw rice, dry-roasted
till light brown and ground to a
Pe Chan Gyaw
powder
12 cups (3 liters) water Split-pea Crackers
4 medium dried chilies
1 medium onion, roughly chopped 5 tablespoons rice flour
3 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups (500 ml) water
1 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 cup (100 g) dried yellow
2 tablespoons coarsely ground split-peas, soaked overnight
lemongrass 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (125 mil peanut oil 1 cup {250 mil oil
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder for deep-frying
11/2 teaspoons salt
Add rice flour
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
to water and
3 tablespoons fish sauce
stir well. Stir
12 whole shallots, peeled
in split-peas
7 oz (200 g) banana stem, sliced
and salt.
1 in (2 1/2 cm) thick {optional}
Heat oil for
deep-frying.
Garnish Spoon 1 table-
10 oz {300 g} rice vermicelli noodles, spoon of the mixture
soaked for 2 minutes and boiled into the oil and deep-fry till
for 21/2 minutes, drained and crisp. Deep-fry several crackers
at the same time. Drain on
tossed with a little peanut oil
paper towel and cool. Crumble
4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and
by hand if required.
quartered

28 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ___________________ ----'1 SEAFOOD & MEAT DISHES


Marinate chicken with fish 2 tablespoons minced onion PorI< and Mango
sauce for at least 15 minutes. 3 cloves garlic, minced Curry
Heat oil in large pan, saute 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
onion, garlic; ginger, and 1 tablespoon chili flakes
turmeric for 5 minutes. Stir in 2 small tomatoes, cut in wedges
chicken and chili flakes. Cover 1 large green chili, halved length
and cook over medium-low heat wise
for 10 minutes. Stir occasionally 1/2 teaspoon salt
to prevent chicken sticking to 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
pan. Meanwhile, add chickpea (coriander) leaves
flour to water and whisk to
remove lumps. Marinate prawns in fish sauce
Add chicken stock to the pan for at least 15 minutes. Heat oil
and bring to a boiL Reduce heat, in pan and saute onion and
add chickpea flour paste, cover garlic for 5 minutes till fragrant.
and simmer for a further 10 Stir in turmeric. Lower heat
minutes. Add coconut milk and and add chili flakes, tomato,
continue to simmer for 30-40 green chili and salt. Cook for
minutes, stirring occasionally, 6-8 minutes stirring to a paste.
till the sauce thickens slightly. Add shrimps and cilantro and
Arrange each garnishing cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring
item on a separate plate on the frequently, till shrimps are done.
table around a central bowl of
chicken and coconut soup. To Score the
serve, take a portion of fresh fish diagonally
noodles, add a little of each Ngakhu Chet and marinate in salt
garnishing (a dash of fish sauce Catfish in Tamarind Sauce for 10 minutes. Transfer fish to
if desired) and a generous helping pan, add water and fish sauce, large pieces; smash the claws
of soup. 4 catfish, about 1 Ib (500 g) cover and simmer for 6-8 min- lightly with the side of a
(substitute with red snapper), utes. Squeeze soaking tamarind cleaver to allow the flavors
gutted and heads removed pulp, stir, strain and discard to penetrate.
1/2 teaspoon salt solids. Heat oil in separate pan Drain chilies and transfer to a
Pazunhtok Sebyan 1 cup (250 mil water and saute onion and garlic till blender, add onion and garlic and
Shrimp in Tomato Curry 2 tablespoons fish sauce fragrant. Stir in sugar and chili. blend to a paste. Heat oil in pan,
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp Add fish and mix welL Add saute chili paste for 4 minutes
Use the freshest large shrimp soaked in 1/2 cup (125 ml) tamarind water, cover and _ till fragrant. Stir in turmeric and
for this curry. Serve this spicy water cook for 10 minutes. Garnish fry for a further 1 minute. Add
dish with plain rice and stir-fried 3 tablespoons oil with cilantro. crab and fish sauce and mix
vegetables. 1 tablespoon sugar thoroughly. Cover and cook over
2 tablespoons minced onion a medium heat for 5 minutes,
1 Ib (500 g) tiger prawns, shelled 1 clove garlic, ground stirring occasionally. Stir and
and cleaned 1 teaspoon chili flakes Ganan Hin strain the tamarind water and
1 tablespoon fish sauce 1/2 cup chopped cilantro Burmese Crab Curry discard the solids. Add tamarind
1/3 cup (80 mil oil (coriander) leaves juice, garam masala, and water
The natural sweetness of the crab to the crab, bring to the boil and
Burmese Crab Curry
and onion is complemented by simmer for 10 minutes.
the sour tang of tamarind and
the aroma of garam mas ala.


4 whole live crabs, about 2 Ib (1 kg) Wether Ahchin Chet
4 cups (1 liter) water for boiling Pork and Mango Curry
crab
4 medium dried red chilies, The sourness of this pork
soaked curry depends on the mango
3 tablespoons chopped onion used. Serve with plain rice, a
2 whole cloves garlic vegetable dish and salad.
2 tablespoons oil
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 Ib (500 g) pork loin, cubed
1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp soaked 2 tablespoons oil
in 2 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons minced onion
1 teaspoon garam masala 2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup (250 mil water 1 teaspoon ground ginger
3 medium dried red chilies,
Plunge live crabs into about soaked and ground
4 cups (1 liter) boiling water for 11/2 tablespoons peeled and
3 minutes and drain. Clean crab shredded young (unripe) mango
and discard spongy grey matter. 1 teaspoon salt
Use a cleaver to chop crab into 11/4 cups (300 mil water

~ ______________________________________ ~I BURMA I 29


2 tablespoons peanut oil 20 minutes till the mixture
comes away from the sides of
1/2 cup (100 g) cowpeas (garden
the pan. Stir continuously with
peas may be substituted)
a wooden spatula throughout
3 scallions (spring onions),
cooking process. If the mixture
sliced
begins to stick to the pan, add a
teaspoon or two of oil. Several
Mix rice flour, water, salt, baking
soda and ginger in a bowl. minutes before the end of cook-
Place a 12-in (30-cm) frying ing, add raisins and mix well.
pan over medium heat and Transfer the mixture to a
pour 4- 5 tablespoons of rice lightly oiled round baking tray
paste into the pan. Lightly brush 12 in (30 cm) in diameter and
the pancake with a little oil and 3 in (7 1 / 2 cm) deep. Smooth the
sprinkle on cowpeas and scallion. surface with a metal spoon or
Cook for 3-4 minutes till under- cake knife and sprinkle poppy
side is crisp. PaId in half and seeds on surface. Bake on
cook for 1 minute on each side. medium shelf for 15 minutes.
Remove from oven and set aside
for several hours at room
temperature. Cut the cake in
Tomato Shwekyi Senyinmakin the baking tray and arrange
Sesame-topped Semolina Cake slices on a serving plate.
Marinate pork in fish sauce for Stir occasionally to prevent with Coconut
at least 10 minutes. Heat oil in chicken from sticking. Add water,
pan and saute onion and garlic cover and cook over moderately 21/4 cups (240 g) semolina
5 minutes till fragrant. Add low heat for 30 minutes till 21/2 cups (625 ml) coconut milk Ngapiyayche
ginger and chili and continue chicken is done. Garnish with 21/2 cups (625 ml) water Fish Sauce Dip
to fry for 2 minutes. Stir in pork, saw-leaf herb or cilantro. 21/2 cups (550 g) sugar
mango and salt and mix well. 2 teaspoons salt 1 cup (250m I) water
Cover and cook over low heat 2 eggs, beaten 1 tablespoon preserved fish paste
for 20 minutes, stirring occa- 1/2 cup (125 ml) oil, heated 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
sionally. Add water and simmer Ye Men 2 tablespoons white poppy seeds 2 dried red chilies, soaked
over low heat for 20-25 minutes. Transparent Savory Rice Pancakes _1~2 cup (75 g) raisins 2 bird's-eye chilies
1 tablespoon dried shrimps, soaked
These deliciously light crepes Preheat oven to 400 0 P (200°C, 2 cloves garlic
can be filled with a variety of gas mark 6). Dry-roast semolina
Kyethar Ngapichet different ingredients. in a frying pan over low heat for Bring water, fish paste and
Chicken Curry with Tomato 10 minutes till reddishbrown turmeric to the boil. simmer
2 cups (300 g) rice flour then cool. In a saucepan. add and reduce by half. Strain and
1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces 21/2 cups (625 ml) cold water roasted semolina. coconut milk. ~iscard solids. Pound remaining
3 medium dried red chillies, 1 teaspoon sa It water. sugar. salt. beaten eggs. mgredients in a mortar and
soaked and ground 1/4 teaspoon baking soda and hot oil. Bring to a boil and mix with fish stock. Serve with
3 tablespoons finely sliced onion 1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger cook over medium low heat for raw vegetables.
1 small tomato, seeded and Transparent Savory Rice Pancakes
chopped
1 tablespoon finely sliced large
green chili
1/4 cup (60 ml) peanut oil
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
250 ml (1 cup) water
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped saw-leaf
. herb, substitute with cilantro
(coriander) leaves

Marinade
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3 cloves garlic, minced
Mix the marinade, combine with
the chicken and set aside. Heat oil
and saute chili paste and onions
for 5 minutes till fragrant. Stir
in shrimp paste. Add tomato,
green chili, and chicken, cover
and cook for 5 minutes.

"An ancient
Chinese proverb
says, 'To the ruler,
people are heaven;
to the people, food
is heaven.' "

________________________________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 31





















An ancient and inventive cuisine, known and loved all
over the world.






















Left: Three generations sit
down to a meal in the
courtyard of an old house
in Fujian province, in
Southern China.

Right: Steamed
dumplings are popular in
most regions of China and
connoisseurs can recog-
nize their provincial origin
by their stuffing and
accompanying sauces.

From a country whose usual greeting is "Chi fan The Maldng of a Cuisine
Ie mei you?"-Have you eaten?-you can expect So large is China, and the geographic and climatic
nothing less than a passionate devotion to food. variations so diverse, that you can travel through
Chinese food is known the world over, thanks to the country and never have the same dish served
the peripatetic nature of its people, but the in exactly the same way twice. The paradox of
success of its food hinges on much the same Chinese food is that it is one borne of hardship and
things: fresh ingredients and the balance of frequent poverty: this is, after all, a country that
flavors. The next time you go to an Asian market, houses 22 percent of the world's population and
observe: the Chinese shoppers are likely to be the has only seven percent of the world's arable land.
ones who prod the fish, inspect entire bunches of There is much debate and confusion about
vegetables, and accept and reject a batch of how many regional cuisines there are, but most
shrimp based on the kick in their legs. gourmets agree that at least four major Chinese
regional styles exist: Cantonese, centered on south-
While the array of seasonings and sauces used ern Guangdong province and Hong Kong;
by Chinese cooks is not vast, every dish must meet Sichuan, based on the cooking of this western
three major criteria: appearance, fragrance, and province's two largest cities, Chengdu and
flavor. The Chinese also prize texture and the Chongqing; Hunan, the cooking of eastern
health-giving properties of food. China-Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai; and
An old Chinese proverb says, "To the ruler, Beijing or 'Northern' food, with its major inspiration
people are heaven; to the people, food is heaven." from the coastal province of Shandong. Some would
This is no truer than in China, where gastronomy add a fifth cuisine from the southeastern coastal
is a part of everyday life. province of Fujian.

32 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~I ______________________________________________________________ __


All regions use various forms of ginger, garlic, scallions, soy Strong spices provide a pick-me-up in cold and humid weather, and
sauce, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and bean paste, but combine them make a useful preservative. The most popular spices are chilies and
in highly distinctive ways. What distinguishes these regional styles is Sichuan peppercorns (prickly ash), tempered with sugar, salt, and
not only their cooking methods but also the particular types and vinegar. Despite the province's incendiary reputation, many of the
combinations of basic ingredients. famous dishes are not spicy at all, for example, the famous camphor-
The southern school of cooking was the cuisine taken to the and tea-smoked duck, made by smoking a steamed duck over a mix-
West by Chinese migrants-egg rolls, dim sum, chow mein, sweet and ture of tea and camphor leaves. But it is the mouth burners that
sour pork, chop suey, and fortune cookies. With the exception of the have made Sichuan's name known all over the world, dishes like ma
last two, which were American inventions, the other dishes are po doufu-stewed bean curd and ground meat in a hot sauce; hui guo
orthodox Cantonese creations. rou-twice-cooked (boiled and stir-fried) pork with cabbage in a
Cantonese food is characterized by its extraordinary range and piquant bean sauce; yu xiang qiezi, eggplant in "fish flavor" sauce;
the freshness of its ingredients, a light touch with sauces, and the and dou ban yu-fish in hot bean sauce.
readiness of its cooks to incorporate "exotic" imported flavorings When the Grand Canal was built in the Sui dynasty AD 581-618,
it gave rise to several great commercial
cities at its southern terminus, including
Huaian and Yangzhou, after which
this regional cuisine (Hunan) is
named. Its location on the lower
reaches of the Yangtze River in
China's "land of fish and rice" gave it
an advantage in terms of agricultural
products, and it was renowned for
seafood such as fish, shrimp, eel, and
crab, which were shipped up the canal
to the imperial court in Beijing. Hunan
cuisine is not well known outside of
China, perhaps because it rejects all
extremes and strives for the "Middle
Way". Freshness (xian) is a very
important concept in the food of this
region, but xian means more than just
fresh. For a dish of steamed fish to be
described as xian, the fish must have
been swimming in the tank one hour
ago, it must exude its own natural
flavor, and must be tender yet slightly
chewy. Xian also implies that the natural
flavor of the original ingredients
should always take precedence over
the sauce. Some of the best known
dishes from this region are steamed
or stewed and require less heat and a
longer cooking time, for instance
chicken with chestnuts, the glorious
pork steamed in lotus leaves, duck
Smiling Shanghai children enjoying a snack. Each region has its own with a stuffing made from eight ingredients, and the evocatively
special array of morsels for when the next meal is just too far away. named "lion head" meatballs.
The cuisine of Beijing has perhaps been subjected to more out-
such as lemon, curry, and Worcester shire sauce. Cantonese chefs side influences than any other major cuisine in China. First came the
excel in preparing roasted and barbecued meats (duck, goose, chicken, once-nomadic Mongols, who made Beijing their capital during the
and pork), and dim sum, snacks taken with tea for either breakfast or Yuan dynasty (1279-1368). They brought with them mutton, the
lunch. Dim sum can be sweet, salty, steamed, fried, baked, boiled or chief ingredient in Mongolian hot pot, one of Beijing's most popular
stewed, each served in their own individual bamboo steamer or plate. dishes in the autumn and winter. The Manchus, as the rulers of the
To eat dim sum is to "yum cha" or drink tea. In traditional yum cha Qing dynasty (1644-1911), introduced numerous ways of cooking
establishments, restaurant staff walk around the room pushing a pork. As the capital of China for the last eight centuries, Beijing
cart or carrying a tray offering their tasty morsels. Dim sum restau- became the home of government officials who brought their chefs
rants are important institutions where the locals go to discuss busi- with them when they came from the wealthy southern provinces.
ness, read newspapers and socialize. But the most important influence comes from nearby Shandong
The home of spicy food, Sichuan, is a landlocked province with province, which has a pedigree that goes back to the days of
remarkably fertile soil and a population of over 100 million. The Confucius C. 550 Be. Shandong cuisine features the seafood found
taste for piquant food is sometimes explained by Sichuan's climate. along China's eastern seaboard: scallops and squid, both dry and
The fertile agricultural basin is covered with clouds much of the year fresh, sea cucumber, conch, crabs, and shark's fins, often teamed
and there is enough rain to permit two crops of rice in many places. with the flavors of raw leek and garlic.

____________________________________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 33



Beijing's most famous dish, Peking duck, owes as much to the Every region has its own particular snacks, very often sold on the
culinary traditions of other parts of China as to the capital itself. The street. Snack food is very inexpensive and includes such regional spe-
method of roasting the duck is drawn from Hunan cuisine, while the cialties as Beijing's boiled tripe with fresh cilantro, fried starch
pancakes, raw leek, and salty sauce that accompany the meat are sausage with garlic, sour bean soup, and boiled pork and leek
typical of Shandong. dumplings Uiaozi). Shanghai is known for its steamed baozi
Beijing is also famous for its steamed and boiled dumplings dumplings, sweet glutinous rice with eight sweetmeats (babaofan)
Uiaozi), which are filled with a mixture of pork and cabbage or leeks, and yeasty sweetened wine lees (the sediment of the wine left after
or a combination of eggs and vegetables. fermentation). Sichuan is noted for spicy dan dan noodles, dumplings
in hot sauce, and bean curd jelly (dou hua), while Cantonese dim sum
is a cuisine unto itself.
The Food of the People The average urban family eats its main meal of the day in the
The proliferation of refrigerators in China today is making inroads evening. This meal usually consists of a staple such as rice or noo-
on an institution that for centuries has been an essential part of dles, one or two fried dishes, at least one of which contains meat or
daily life: shopping in the local food market. Many housewives and fish, and a soup. Northerners eat more wheat than rice, in the form
househusbands go to the market two or three times a day. In some of steamed buns or noodles, which are fried or simmered in stock.
state-run offices in Beijing, half-hour rest periods are allotted to Beer regularly accompanies meals at home; stronger spirits are
enable its employees to shop for fresh produce. reserved for special occasions. The whole family gets involved in the
In addition to fresh food markets, there are shops selling a huge business of shopping and cooking, and friends or relatives may be
variety of prepared and packaged food. Along with food markets, invited to join in the feast.
most cities have areas where snack foods are sold in stand-up or sit- Western foods have made tentative inroads into the 6000-year-
down stalls. Breakfast may be a fried egg wrapped in a pancake; an old bastion of Chinese cuisine, but fast-food outlets succeed mainly
"elephant ear" plate-sized piece of fried bread; noodles; con gee (rice because of their novelty and location in Chinese tourist cities.
gruel) or bean curd jelly accompanied by a deep-fried cruller (you
tiao); or a slice of cake and a jar of mille Lunch or dinner could be
noodles from a food stall or careful preparation of the just-bought China's Gourmet Culture
produce from the market. As the Son of Heaven, the emperor of China enjoyed a status so ele-
vated above the common mortal that it is difficult to conceive of the
Esoteric and often extremely expensive ingredients such as shark's fin, awe in which he was held and the power that he enjoyed. There are
dried scallops and dried oysters go into some of China's prized dishes. no dining rooms in the Forbidden City; tables would be set up before

34 I THE FOOD OF ASIA IL-________________________________________________________________ _



the emperor wherever he decided to eat. Every meal was a banquet of tively dry North. And since the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), an
approximately 100 dishes. These included 60 or 70 dishes from the annual crop of short-grain rice has been grown in the suburbs of
imperial kitchens, and a few dozen more served by the chief concu- Beijing, originally for the palace and today for the military leader-
bines from their own kitchens. Many of the dishes served to the ship. Numerous varieties of rice are produced in China, supplement-
emperor were made purely for their visual appeal. and were placed ed by the more expensive Thai rice which is available at urban
far away from the reach of the imperial chopsticks. These leftovers markets throughout the country. Southerners seem to prefer long-
were spirited out of the palace to be sold to gourmets eager to "dine grain rice, which is less sticky than other varieties and has strong
with the emperor." "wood" overtones when steaming hot.
From the palace, this gourmet culture filtered down to the private The basic Chinese diet and means of food preparation were in
homes of the rich and powerful and to the restaurants where the place about 6000 years ago, although many imported ingredients
privileged entertained. Banquets are important social and commer- entered the Chinese larder and new cooking methods were adopted.
cial events in China today and many high officials attend banquets From the earliest times, the Chinese have divided their foodstuffs into
five or six nights a week. Almost any event can supply the reason for two general categories: fan (cooked rice and staple grain dishes) and
a banquet: the completion (or non-completion) of a business deal, cai (cooked meat and vegetable dishes). A balanced mixture of grain
wedding, graduation, trip abroad, return from a trip abroad, promo- and cooked dishes has been the ideal of a Chinese meal since time
tion, moving house and so on. One can also give a banquet to save or immemorial. Further balances were sought between the yin (cooling)
give "face" in the case of some unpleasant situation or mishap. and yang (heating) qualities of the foods served. The notion of food
Some of the best restaurants in China today are the pre-1949 as both preventative and curative medicine is deeply embedded in the
enterprises that have managed to survive by virtue of the quality of Chinese psyche.
their cooking and by their location. One example is Fangshan The specific proportion of grain and cooked dishes on a menu
Restaurant in Beihai Park in Beijing, set in a former imperial palace depends on the economic status of the diners and the status of the
on the shores of an artificial lake, where many of the recipes are occasion. The grander the occasion, the more cooked dishes and less
taken from the late-Qing dynasty Forbidden City. Fangshan is grain. Even today, this tradition is maintained at banquets, where a
renowned for its Manchu-Chinese Banquet, a three-day dining small symbolic bowl of plain steamed rice is served after an extensive
extravaganza that consists of over 100 different dishes, a souvenir of selection of dishes.
Qing dynasty court banquets. At another famous restaurant. Rice is served steamed, fried (after boiling) or made into noodles
Listening to the Orioles Pavilion, in the gardens of the famed by grinding raw rice into rice flour. It is also cooked with a lot of
Summer Palace (known to the Chinese as Yi He Yuan) , dinners for 10 water to produce congee or zhou (rice gruel), a popular breakfast
at around $1000 per table are reputedly not uncommon. food and late-night snack eaten with savory side dishes. Rice is eaten
by raising the bowl to the mouth and shoveling the grains in with
the chopsticks in a rapid fanning motion.
The Chinese Kitchen and Table The Chinese table is a shared table. The average meal would
Rice is essential to a Chinese meal. This is particularly true in South comprise three to four cai, fan, and a soup, served at once, to be
China, although this division is not hard and fast. One reason the shared between the diners who help themselves. The cai dishes
Grand Canal was built in the sixth century was to transport rice from should each have a different main ingredient, perhaps one meat,
the fertile Yangtze delta region to the imperial granaries in the rela- one fish, and one vegetable. Each dish should complement the other
in terms of taste, texture and flavor, and the total effect appeal to
This child seems to be eating with more gusto than finesse.You may both the eye and the tongue.
need some practice before becoming adept with chopsticks.
When cooking Chinese food, prepare all the ingredients and have
them ready before you start cooking as trying to juggle a hot wok
and chop a chicken at the same time inevitably leads to catastrophe!
Tea is drunk before and after a meal. but rarely during a meal.
The most famous of clear-spirits drunk "straight up" in small
handle-less cups or glasses during a meal is Maotai, made in the
south-west province of Guizhou.
Chinese meals are socially important events, and special menus
are presented for weddings and birthdays; important festivals also
have their traditional dishes and snacks.
Finally, some tips on etiquette. Don't pOint with your chopsticks
and don't stick them into your rice bowl and leave them standing up
or crossed. Don't use your chopsticks to explore the contents of a
dish-locate the morsel you want with your eyes and go for it with
your chopsticks without touching any other pieces.
If you wish to take a drink of wine at a formal dinner, you must
first toast another diner, regardless of whether he or she responds by
drinking. If you are toasted and don't wish to drink, simply touch
your lips to the edge of the wine glass to acknowledge the courtesy.
It is incumbent upon the host to urge the guests to eat and drink
to their fill. This means ordering more food than necessary and keep-
ing an eye out for idle chopsticks. It is polite to serve the guest of
honor the best morsels, such as the cheek of the fish, using a pair of
serving or "public" chopsticks or with the back end of one's chop-
sticks. And remember, all food is communal and to be shared.

SUGGESTED MENUS


Family meals Dinner parties One-pot meals A melting pot menu
For simple family meals, try For a dinner party that is guar- Many of the noodle soup dishes For a festive culinary tour
serving with steamed jasmine anteed to impress, present a here are meals-in-a-bowl, and around Asia:
rice: selection of appetizers and two make an ideal lunch or supper. • Shark's Fin Soup (page 38)
• Winter Melon Soup (page 38); main dishes served with noodles In China, dishes such as the fol- from China;
• Bamboo Shoots with instead of rice, such as. lowing are often eaten for break- • the ubiquitous but always
Mushrooms (page 42); • Marinated Sliced Beef fast and in-between meals: delicious Chicken Rice
• Sliced fresh fruit. (page 36), Carrot and Radish • Hot and Spicy Hawker Noodles from Malaysia/Singapore
(page 128);
Rolls (page 38) and Seafood (page 38); • Kale with Crispy Pork (page
Alternatively, you could offer: in Beancurd Skin (page 36); • Cold Chengdu Noodles 164) from Thailand served
• Pork-Stuffed Steamed Beancurd • Teochew Steamed Pomfret (page 39). with rice;
(page 36); (page 42) or the classy • Almond Jelly (from Malaysia/
• Beef with Black Pepper Shrimp-stuffed Lychees Singapore) in individual
(page 41); (page 43) and Chicken with servings (page 134).
• Red Bean Soup (page 46). Dried Chilies (page 45);
• Fried Noodles Xiamen Style
(page 39);
·White Fungus with Melon Balls
(page 46).







THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF CHINESE COOKING

Indispensable to the Chinese pantry are garlic, ginger, and scallions. A good supply of fresh jasmine rice and dried egg noodles is also
a must. Flavorings you'll need include soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, and chili sauce. Bamboo shoots and bean curd are a common
addition to everything from stir-fries to one-pot braises. Rock sugar is frequently used in red-braised dishes. Sesame paste is mixed into dipping
sauces, and Sichuan peppercorns add a subtle heat to dishes.

36 I T H E F O O D OF A S I A I J S N A C K S & A P P E T I Z E R
Some of these appetizer 1 teaspoon cornstarch HELPFUL HIN

would make very good starters with wate



to a formal dinner. Some, lik Oil for deep-fryin For the stuffing, minced chick-


the Seafood in Beancurd Ski en or beef works as well a



and Pork-stuffed Steame Blend the shrimp and crabmea pork. For a vegetarian variation

Beancurd, can be served as in a food processor until coarse- use soaked, chopped vermicelli

part of a main meal—jus ly chopped. Add water chest-
adjust the quantities of the nuts, cilantro, and salt an

ingredients accordingly process for a few more seconds.

Wipe the beancurd skin with Ma La Lian O
a damp cloth to make it pliable, Lotus Root


cut into 5-in (13-cm) squares.
Nu E r Hong Niu Ro Put in a heaped spoonful of fill- The lotus has special associa-


Marinated Sliced Beef ing and spread across. Smear tions for Buddhists, for it is said
the far end of the beancurd ski that Gautama Buddha likene


Red rice is available fro with cornstarch paste, then fol man striving to achieve good-



Chinese medicine or specialt over the sides of the skin and ness to an exquisite lotus bloom
food shops. roll up to seal the filling in firmly rising unsullied from the mudd




Deep-fry in hot oil until cris bottom of a lake!


1 x 13 oz (400 g) piece beef topside and golden. Cut rolls into bite-

Water as require sized pieces before serving 6-8 in (15-20 cm) lotus roo

2 teaspoons red rice (optional 1 tablespoon white rice vinega


2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine 2 tablespoons suga
2 teaspoons sal Salt to taste
4 bay leave Dou Fu Rou Jiang Zha

Pork-stuffed Steamed Peel the lotus root and cut cross-

Put the beef in a pan wit wise into /4-in-( /2-cm-) thick
1


1
sufficient water to cover. Add al 1 lb (500 g) beancur slices. Heat a pan of water unti




other ingredients and simmer 3 teaspoons cornstarc boiling, then drop in the lotus

covered, until the beef is tender. 3V2 oz (100 g) finely mince root slices and blanch for abou


Turn the meat from time to time lean por 5 seconds. Drain and rinse in



and add a little more water if i 3 dried black mushrooms, soake cold water.

threatens to dry up. Allow to cool. and finely choppe Toss the lotus root slices in



To serve, slice the beef thinly and 2 teaspoons chicken stock powde bowl with the vinegar, the Blanch the carrot and radis


arrange on a plate. Serve with ½ teaspoon sal arrange on a plate. Sprinkle separately in a little boiling



dipping sauce. 1 teaspoon suga with sugar and salt to taste an water. Drain well and pat dry


1 teaspoon Chinese rice win serve immediately with paper towel. Place the
I½ cups leafy greens (spinach, slices of radish flat on a board

Napa cabbage or bok and put some shredded carro

choy), blanched crosswise in the center of each

½ cup (125 ml Carrot and Radish Roll Roll up to enclose the carrot

chicken stoc then cut each roll on the diagonal

into ½-in (1-cm) pieces.
2V2 oz (75 g) carrot, shredde


Cut the 2½ oz (75 g) giant white radish Arrange on a plate. Combin


beancurd peeled and slice all remaining ingredients, mixing
into 3 teaspoons suga until the sugar dissolves. Pour

squares 2 teaspoons white rice vinega over the rolls and serve

about 3 x 1V 2 teaspoons sesame oi
in (8 x 4 cm ½ teaspoon sal


thick squares. Use a
teaspoon to scoop out

some of the bean curd from th

Pork-stuffed Steamed Beancurd center to make a hole for the
pork filling. Combine 1 teaspoon

cornstarch with all other ingre-


dients, except leafy greens an
Chao Lian Xia Xie Jiao stock, mixing well. Stuff thi

Seafood in Beancurd into the beancurd and stea



over high heat for 4 minutes.
7 oz (200 g) peeled shrim While the beancurd is steam-
3½ oz (100 g) crabmeat, fresh o ing, cook the greens in chicken

canned stock. Drain, keeping the stock
2 water chestnuts, roughl Arrange greens on a plate.



chopped Blend remaining 2 teaspoon

1 tablespoon chopped cilantr cornstarch with water an


(coriander) leave thicken the stock. Pour ove

1 teaspoon sal vegetables, arrange th

3-4 large sheets of dried beancur cooked beancurd on top Lotus
skin and serve. Root Salad

SNACKS & APPETIZERS LI ____________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 37


bage and sesame oil. If desired, 4 tablespoons chili oil
garnish with a little sliced red 1 1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion
chili. Serve cold. (spring onion)

Most wanton wrappers are 3-4 in
(8- 10 em) square. Turn a small
Chuan Wei Hun Tun Chinese soup bowl or a glass
Boiled Dumplings in Hot Sauce upside down on the wrappers
and cut around the bowl or rim
Steamed or boiled dumplings of the glass with a sharp knife to
are a favorite snack in most of form circles.
China, from Beijing in the north Combine pork, egg, ginger,
to Shanghai on the east coast, rice wine, salt, and pepper. Put a
from the southern province of heaped teaspoonful of this in
Guangdong to Sichuan in the the center of a wrapper. Use
far west. The filling differs from your fingertip to smear a little
one area to another, as well as water around the edge of the
according to the season. In circle, then fold across to make
summer time in Beijing, the a semicircle, pressing firmly to
basic pork stuffing might be enclose the filling. When all
seasoned with fresh dill. The the dumplings are ready, drop
dumplings may be steamed, fried, in rapidly boiling water and
boiled, served in soup (like the simmer for 2-3 minutes. Drain.
famous Cantonese wanton soup) Take 4 bowls and prepare
or, as in this Sichuan version, the sauce separately for each
bathed in a tangy sauce. portion. Put 1/4 teaspoon garlic,
1 tablespoon black soy sauce,
50 fresh wonton wrappers a pinch of sugar and a pinch of
7 oz (200 g) lean pork, finely minced cinnamon in the bottom of
1 egg, lightly beaten each bowl. Divide the boiled
11/2 teaspoons very finely chopped dumplings among the 4 bowls
Boiled Dumplings in Hot Sauce ginger and pour 1 tablespoon chili oil
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine over each serving. Garnish
1 teaspoon salt with a little scallion. Stir before
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper eating.
Sesame Squid Gong Cai Xian
Shen Pian Sa lice
Duck Giblets 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
5 oz (150 g) squid, skinned and Duck Giblets (below right) and
4 tablespoons black soy sauce
cleaned Marinated Sliced Beef (below left)
Duck or chicken giblets, often 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 cup (250 mil water
discarded by Western cooks or 1/2 teaspoon ground
1 teaspoon salt
relegated to the stockpot, are cinnamon
1 tablespoon sesame paste
2 teaspoons sesame oil favored for their firm texture
and flavor in China. The word
Cut the squid in pieces about gong in the name of this dish
2 x 3/4 in (5 x 2 em). Score means gratuity to the emperor.
crosswise in a diamond pattern
with a sharp knife, cutting 10 oz (300 g) duck or chicken
about halfway into the squid giblets
meat so that it will curl during 2 teaspoons salt
cooking. Bring water and salt to 4 whole star anise
a boil and drop in squid. Simmer 4 bay leaves
just until the squid turns white 1 cup (100 g) salted mustard
and curls (about 1 minute), cabbage, soaked, squeezed
and sliced
then drain. 1 teaspoon sesame oil
Combine sesame paste
and oil in a mixing bowl and Clean the giblets and drain.
add squid. Toss and serve at Put in a pan with salt, star
room temperature or chilled, anise, and bay leaves.
if preferred. Cover with water, bring
to a boil and simmer
for about 30 minutes
until tender. Remove
giblets, drain and
keep refrigerated
until required.
To serve, slice the giblets
thinly, then mix with salted cab-

38 1 THE FOOD OF ASIA LI __ __ _____ ____ ___ ______ __ SOUPS & NOODLES
1

Restorative and satisfying, skin. Sprinkle the inside with
Chinese soups are usually salt and put winter melon in a
drunk throughout a meal. large deep pan with boiling water
Don't despair at the "exoti- to cover. Simmer for 30 minutes,
cism" of some of the ingredi- drain and then put in a large
\ ents; most can be found in steamer and steam for another
Asian food shops. 30 minutes.
Bring the stock to a boil and
pour into the melon. Cover and
Dong Gua Tang steam for 25 minutes. Add all
Winter Melon Soup other ingredients and serve. Add
some of the winter melon flesh,
1 large winter melon scraped out with a spoon, when
1 teaspoon salt serving the soup in individual
6 cups (11/2 liters) gourmet or bowls.
chicken stock (page 47)
4 oz (125 g) straw mushrooms,
halved
1/3 cup (50 g) shredded cooked Yu Chi Tang
chicken breast Shark's Fin Soup
1/3 cup (50 g) shredded cooked
duck (or double the amount of Shark's fin is a real gourmet
chicken) item, enjoyed for its texture and
1/3 cup (50 g) shredded cooked liver its ability to absorb the flavors of
(duck, chicken or pork) other ingredients.
1/4 cup (25 g) cooked or canned
crabmeat 1 oz (30 g) shredded dried shark's fin
1/4 cup (50 g) canned asparagus 3 cups (750 ml) gourmet or chicken Shark's Fin Soup
tips, drained stock (page 47)
6 dried lotus nuts, soaked, peeled 3 teaspoons black soy sauce 1/3 oz (10 g) dried fish maw Heat 1 cup of oil, add the shallots
and hard core removed 1/2 teaspoon salt (optional) and simmer in the oil until the
Salt to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper 11/2 cups (375 ml) chicken stock shallots are golden. Do not allow
11/4 in (3 cm) ginger, very finely (optional) the shallots to burn or the flavor
Choose a winter melon that will shredded 1 teaspoon dry sherry (optional) will be bitter. Drain and store the
hold at least 6 cups liqUid. Cut 1/3 cup (50 g) finely shredded 1/2 in (1 cm) ginger, sliced oil in a jar with a tight-fitting lid.
off the top or, if the melon is very cooked chicken (optional)
large. slice it in half. Carve the 2 tablespoons cornstarch, blended 1 scallion (spring onion) (optional)
skin decoratively. Remove central with water 1 heaped tablespoon finely
fiber and seeds. Scrape out some 1 teaspoon shallot oil (see Note) shredded Yunnan ham Hong Tang Dan
of the flesh, leaving about 3/4 in 1/3 oz (10 g) dried scallops Dan Mian
(2 cm) flesh still clinging to the (optional) Soak dried shark's fin in hot Hot and Spicy Hawker Noodles
water for about 30 minutes
Winter Melon Soup until swollen and transparent. It's hard to think of any time of
Drain. day when noodles are not popu-
Heat stock with soy sauce, lar in China; they're eaten for
shallot oil, salt, and pepper, then breakfast, as a mid-morning
add shark's fin, scallops, fish snack, for lunch, as something
maw, ginger, and chicken.
Thicken with cornstarch and to keep you going until dinner
and as a late-night restorative.
serve. Garnish with shredded This spicy favorite, often sold by
Yunnan ham. In southern mobile vendors or at streetside
China, a few drops of black rice stalls, originates in Sichuan.
vinegar are generally added to
the soup at the table.
The scallops and fish maw 1 Ib (500g) fresh wheat-flour
depicted in the photograph noodles, or 3/4 Ib (375 g) narrow
opposite are optional, and may flat dried noodles
be ready-bought in dried form. 1 teaspoon cooking oil
To prepare the scallops, place 8 oz (250 g) lean pork, very finely
them in a bowl containing chicken minced
stock, dry sherry, ginger, and 1/2 cup (100 g) preserved salted
scallion. Steam in a steamer radish, finely chopped
until the scallops are soft. 2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
To prepare the fish maw, place 4 tablespoons black soy sauce
them in a bowl, pour enough hot 11/2 tablespoons black rice vinegar
water over to soak them, cover 1 tablespoon very finely chopped
with a lid, and set aside until soft. garlic
Note: To make shallot oil, 2 teaspoons Sichuan pepper oil
peel and slice about 8 shallots. (page 47)

SOUPS & NOODLES


2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon chili oil (page 47) Chao Mian Xian
1 teaspoon ground Fried Noodles Xiamen Style
white pepper
1 heaped tablespoon finely sliced
Very fine fresh wheat-flour
scallion (spring onion)
noodles, like angel-hair pasta,
are used for this dish. Try to get
Set the noodles aside for blanch-
ing later. Heat cooking oil and fresh ones as the texture is
stir fry the pork over very high superior to dried noodles.
heat for 2- 3 minutes, until
cooked. Mix well with the 10 oz (300 g) small shrimp
preserved radish and set aside. 1 Ib (500 g) fresh wheat-flour
Heat chicken stock and add all noodles
other ingredients except noodles Oil for deep-frying
and scallion. Keep stock warm 2 tablespoons very finely chopped
while blanching noodles in rapidly garlic
boiling water for 1 minute. 7 oz (200 g) bamboo shoots, in
Drain noodles and divide matchstick shreds
among 4 small bowls. Pour over 4 oz (125 g) lean pork, finely
hot stock, top with the pork shredded
mixture, garnish with scallion 1 small carrot, in matchstick shreds
and serve. 3-4 dried black mushrooms,
soaked and finely shredded
HELPFUL HINT 1/4 cup chopped Chinese coarse Hot and Spicy
chives Hawker Noodles
Preserved salted radish is
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine
available from Asian stores.
1 teaspoon salt
If unavailable use Tientsin 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper Peel shrimp, remove heads and
preserved vegetables (tung devein. Keep shrimp aside and Chengdu Leng Mian
4 shallots, sliced and deep-fried
chay) instead if you like. put heads and shells in a pan with Cold Chengdu Noodles
until golden brown
1 cup (250 ml) water. Bring to a
boil, then simmer 10 minutes. 1 Ib (500 g) fresh wheat-flour
Strain through a sieve, pressing noodles, boiled, drained and
on heads and shells to extract chilled
the maximum stock. Set aside. 3/4 cup beansprouts, blanched for
Shake the noodles to sepa- a few seconds and chilled
rate if using fresh noodles, 1 scallion (spring onion), finely
then deep fry in very hot sliced
oil for a few seconds
until golden brown. Sauce
Drain well and set 2 tablespoons very finely chopped
aside, discarding oil. ginger
If using dried noodles, 1 tablespoon very finely chopped
blanch in boiling water garlic
until just softened. 1 tablespoon sesame paste
Put 1 tablespoon 1 tablespoon peanut butter
of fresh oil into 1 teaspoon peanut oil or
the wok, stir cooking oil
fry the garlic 3 tablespoons black soy sauce
for a few 2 teaspoons sugar
seconds, 2 teaspoons black rice vinegar
then add 1 teaspoon sesame oil
the shrimp, 1 teaspoon chil i oil
bamboo
shoots, pork, Combine all sauce ingredients
carrot, mushrooms, in a bowl, mixing well. Add the
and chives. Stir- fry noodles and stir to coat the
until the pork and shrimp noodles with the sauce, then
change color. Pour in 1/2 add bean sprouts and mix
(125 ml) cup of the carefully with chopsticks or a
reserved shrimp stock. fork, taking care not to break
add wine, salt and the sprouts. Divide among 4
pepper and simmer, bowls and sprinkle each portion
uncovered, for 5 minutes, with a little scallion.
stirring from time to time.
Add the noodles and continue
stir-frying, mixing well, for
another 5 minutes. Serve
Cold Chengdu Noodles garnished with fried shallots.

40 I THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A



Yu Xiang Qie Zi Ma Po Dou Fu
Fragrant Eggplant with Pork Spicy Beancurd with
Minced Beef
8 oz (250g) eggplant (aubergine),
peeled and cut in 3 x 1/2-in The dominant ingredient is
(8 x 1-cm) pieces meltingly soft beancurd laced with
Oil for deep-frying pungent Sichuan seasonings.
1/4 cup (50 g) ground lean pork
2 tablespoons dried shrimp, 3 tablespoons oil (or chili oil)
soaked and very finely chopped 4 oz (125 g) minced lean beef
2 teaspoons chili paste 1 tablespoon chopped, salted
1 teaspoon salted soy beans, black beans
mashed 1 tablespoon chopped. salted
2 teaspoons very finely sliced soy beans Fragrant Eggplant
with Pork (top) and
scallion (spring onion) 1 tablespoon very finely Stir-fried Mixed
1 teaspoon very finely chopped chopped garlic Vegetables (bottom)
soaked dried black mushroom 1 tablespoon very finely
1 cup (250 mil chicken stock chopped ginger
1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine 2 tablespoons chili paste
1 teaspoon sesame oil 2-3 scallions (spring onions). Jiang Cong
2 teaspoons commercial sweet finely sliced Chao Zhu Gan
and sour sauce 1 cup (250 mil chicken or Stir-fried Pork Liver
1/2 teaspoon dark soy sauce beef stock
1/4 teaspoon salt 1 Ib (500 g) soft beancurd. diced 10 oz (300 g) pork liver,
1 teaspoon cornflour, mixed 1 tablespoon black soy sauce thinly sliced
with water Salt to taste 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine
Cilantro (coriander) leaves to garnish 2 teaspoons cornflour, blended 2 teaspoons oil
with water 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
Deep-fry the eggplant pieces in 1 teaspoon powdered Sichuan 11/4 in (3 cm) ginger, finely Chao Qing Cai
very hot oil for 1 minute. Drain peppercorns sliced Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables
and set aside. 1 scallion (spring onion). cut in
Pour out all but 2 teaspoons of Heat oil and stir-fry beef and 11/4-in (3 cm) lengths 1/2 cup (75 g) snow peas. ends
the oil and stir-fry pork over high black beans for 3-4 minutes. 1/2 red chili, deseeded and sliced trimmed
heat for 2 minutes. Add dried Add salted soy beans. ginger. (optional) 2 teaspoons oil
shrimp. chili paste. salted soy garlic. chili paste. and half the 1 teaspoon chicken stock powder Pinch of salt
beans. 1 teaspoon of the scallion scallion. Stir-fry for another 1 teaspoon light soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon sugar
and the mushrooms. Stir-fry for 2 minutes. then add the stock 1/2 teaspoon sugar 3 oz (90 g) bamboo shoots,
30 seconds. then add all remam- and beancurd. 1 teaspoon cornstarch, blended quartered lengthwise then cut
ing ingredients. except remaining Simmer for 5 minutes. season with water in 2-in (5-cm) lengths
scallion. cornflour. and cilantro. with soy sauce and salt. then 6-8 dried black mushrooms,
Heat. then put in eggplant and thicken with cornflour. Sprinkle Marinate liver with wine for soaked
cook another 30 seconds. with Sichuan pepper and scallion. about 5 minutes. Heat oil and 1 cup (250 mil chicken stock
Thicken with cornflour and then serve. fry the garlic for a few seconds. 1 teaspoon oyster sauce
serve garnished with the then add drained liver. ginger. 1/4 teaspoon sesame oil
cilantro leaves and remaining scallion. and chili (if using). 1/4 teaspoon salt
scallion. Stir-fry over high heat for a few 1/4 teaspoon dark soy sauce
seconds. Add stock powder. soy dash of ground white pepper
sauce. and sugar and continue 1 teaspoon cornflour, blended
stir-frying for 1-2 minutes. until with water
the liver is cooked. Thicken
with cornstarch and serve Blanch snow peas in boiling
immediately. water for 5 seconds. then drain.
Stir-fried Pork Liver Heat oil and stir-fry blanched
snow peas with salt and sugar
for 30 seconds. Remove from
wok. Add bamboo shoots.
mushrooms. chicken stock and
all seasonings and bring to a
boil. Simmer 1 minute. add the
snow peas. then thicken with
cornstarch. Serve immediately.

MAIN DISHES L-____________________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 41




Shuan Yang Rou
Mongolian Lamb Hotpot


Mongolian Hotpot is popular in
winter and as a reunion dinner,
with everyone sitting around in
a cozy warm circle, cooking
their own portions of food in the
bubbling hotpot

1 Ib (500 g) boneless lamb leg
1-2 cakes beancurd, sliced
3 cups (200 g) Napa cabbage,
coarsely chopped
4 oz (125 g) dried rice vermicelli,
soaked in hot water to soften

Stock
11/4 in (3 cm) ginger, finely sliced
1 scallion (spring onion), coarsely
chopped
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
6 cups (11/2 liters) stock made from
lamb leg bone boiled with water

Dips and Garnishes
1/2 cup (125 mil sesame paste
2 tablespoons fermented beancurd,
mashed
1/2 cup (125 mil light soy sauce
1/2 cup (125 mil red rice vinegar Mongolian Lamb Hotpot
1/2 cup (125 mil Chinese rice wine
1/4 cup (60 mil chili oil (page 47) over very high heat for 30 sec- HELPFUL HINT
4 tablespoons pickled garlic Hei Jiao Niu Rou onds. Drain and set aside. Tip out
Bunch of cilantro (coriander) leaves, all but 1 teaspoon of oil and stir If using a charcoal hotpot for
Beef with Black Pepper
chopped fry the garlic for a few seconds, the Mongolian Hotpot recipe,
then add the beef and all other light charcoal over a gas flame
Slice the lamb paper thin, leaving Simple and quick to prepare, ingredients, except for the lettuce. and then use tongs to insert it
on a little of the fat (this is typical this Sichuan dish tastes like a Stir-fry for a few seconds until well down the central ch imney of
in Beijing, but can be omitted flavor-enhanced version of mixed and serve immediately on the hotpot and into the bottom.
if preferred). Roll up the slices Western black pepper steak, a bed of shredded lettuce.
and arrange on a plate. Put with Sichuan peppercorns
the beancurd and cabbage on adding a distinctive difference.
separate plates, and divide
the soaked vermicelli among 8 oz (250 g) beef fillet, trimmed
6 individual soup bowls. and cut in I-in (2 1 /2-cm) cubes
Arrange all dips and garnishes 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine
in small bowls and place on the 1 tablespoon water
table for diners to use according 1/2 teaspoon salt
to taste. 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
Heat all stock ingredients in Oil for deep-frying
a pan, then carefully transfer 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
to a hotpot. Bring back to a boil. 2 teaspoons coarsely crushed black
Each diner cooks his own peppercorns
portions of meat, beancurd, I teaspoon crushed Sichuan
and cabbage, seasoning them peppercorns
afterwards with the dip of his 2 teaspoons oyster sauce
choice, accompanied by pieces 2 teaspoons light soy sauce
of pickled garlic and cilantro. 1 teaspoon sesame oil
When all the ingredients are Sliced lettuce for garnish
used, the rich stock is poured
into the soup bowls over the Put beef in a bowl and sprinkle
with wine, water, salt and white
noodles and eaten as a final
course. pepper. Massage well for about
30 seconds until all the liquid is
absorbed by the beef. Beef with
Heat oil and deep-fry the beef Black Pepper

MAIN DISHES



HELPFUL HINT
Stuffed Vegetables and Chao Zhou Zheng
Beancurd: Other vegetables Chang Yu
which can be stuffed include Teochew Steamed Pomfret
bitter gourd and seeded green
or red chilies. The stuffing can
be prepared in advance. 1 fresh pomfret, pompano, butter
fish or plaice, about 11/2 Ib
(750 g)
1/2 cup (100 g) salted mustard
cabbage, soaked and finely sliced
Xiang Gu Chao 1 tomato, deseeded and cut in strips
Jiao Bai 2 sour salted plums (available in jars)
Bamboo Shoots with Mushrooms 1 red chili, de seeded and finely
shredded
The special type of bamboo 3 in (8 cm) celery stalk, finely
shoot used for this dish in shredded
southern China has an excellent 1 scallion (spring onion), chopped
texture and flavor. If fresh jiao in 11/2-in (4-cm) lengths
bai is available, substitute 3 in (8 cm) ginger, finely shredded
canned bamboo shoots. 1 cake beancurd, shredded
1 dried black mushroom, soaked
and finely shredded
12 oz (375 g) jiao bai or bamboo
Stuffed Vegetables and Beancurd shoots 2 teaspoons chicken stock powder
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 heaped teaspoon very finely
Cilantro (coriander) leaf to garnish
Guang Dong Niang chopped garlic peas
San Bao Prepare the stuffing first by 10 dried black mushrooms, soaked
blending together all ingredients.
1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine
Stuffed Vegetables and Beancurd Clean the fish inside and out
Set aside. 1 teaspoon chicken stock powder and wipe dry. Place fish on
Cut the green pepper into four 1 teaspoon sugar an oval plate and arrange
This Cantonese and Hakim and discard seeds. Cut the egg- 1/2 teaspoon salt over all the ingredients, except
favorite uses a selection of plant across into 11/2-in (4- em) chicken stock powder, sugar and
vegetables and beancurd stuffed lengths and make a lengthwise If using fresh jiao bai, peel off the salt. Sprinkle with the stock
with a shrimp filling. The sauce, slit down one side to form a pocket outer layer, then slice coarsely. If powder, sugar and salt and put
flavored with salted black beans, for the stuffing. Cut beancurd using canned bamboo shoots, inside a large steamer. Steam
gives an emphatic salty tang to into four and slit a pocket in each. simmer in boiling water for 5 over high heat for about 8 min-
the delicate stuffed vegetables. Sprinkle the inside of the veg- minutes, drain and slice coarsely. utes, until the fish is cooked.
etables and beancurd with corn- Heat oil in a wok and stir-fry Take care not to overcook for
1 large green bell pepper (capsicum) flour to help make the stuffing the garlic and mushrooms until optimum texture and flavor.
adhere, then fill with the stuffing. fragrant. Add the jiao bai or
1 long thin eggplant (aubergine) Garnish with cilantro leaf.
Heat oil in a wok and deep- bamboo shoots and all seasonings
1 hard beancurd and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes.
1 teaspoon cornflour fry the stuffed items, a few at a Serve immediately.
Oil for deep-frying time, until golden and cooked.
Remove and set aside, leaving
1 teaspoon of oil in the wok for
Stuffing
preparing the sauce.
1 cup (200 g) peeled shrimp,
chopped To make the sauce, stir-fry
1/4 cup (50 g) lard (pork fat), the black beans, chili, garlic, and
ginger for a few seconds until
chopped
fragrant, then add the stock and
1 tablespoon black moss fungus, Teochew
soy sauce. Heat, then add the
soaked to soften Steamed Pomfret
1/2 teaspoon sa It fried vegetables and beancurd
and simmer for 1 minute.
Dash of ground white pepper
Thicken with corn-
flour and serve
Sauce
immediately.
1 teaspoon salted black beans,
mashed slightly with the back of
a spoon
1 teaspoon finely chopped red chili
1 teaspoon very finely chopped
garlic
1 teaspoon very finely chopped
ginger
1 cup (250 mil chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon black soy sauce
2 teaspoons cornflour, blended
with water

MAIN DISHES LI ________________________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 43




Yu Xiang Cui Pi Gui Yu Suan Rong Zheng
Crispy Fried Mandarin Fish Dan Cai
Steamed Mussels with
The Chinese believe that fresh- Minced Garlic
water fish from lakes, rivers and
fish ponds are more delicate in This way of cooking mussels can
flavor and texture than fish from be used also for oysters or clams.
the sea, Although this recipe The shellfish can be boiled in
calls for freshwater Mandarin advance, and refrigerated until
fish, fine-textured ocean fish just before you are ready to
such as perch, grouper, bream steam them.
or snapper could be substituted,
12 fresh mussels or oysters,
1 fresh fish (see above), 11/2-2 Ib or 24 clams
(3/4-1 kg), cleaned and scaled 6-8 cloves garlic
3 in (8 cm) ginger, finely sliced 1 teaspoon oil
1 scallion (spring onion), chopped 1 teaspoon chicken stock powder
coarsely 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground white pepper 1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce
1/2 cup (125 ml) Chinese rice wine 1 red chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 scallion (spring onion), finely sliced
Oil for deep-frying Cilantro (coriander) leaf (optional)
1 scallion (spring onion), finely
Bring a wok full of water to a
sliced for garnish
boil. Put in mussels or other
shellfish and cook until the
Sauce Shrimp-stuffed Lychees shells open. Remove, drain, and
1-2 tablespoons chili paste discard one side of the shell. Put
11/2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic until the shrimp filling is frrm the half-shell with the mussel
11/2 teaspoons finely chopped and cooked. attached on a plate.
ginger Zeng Cheng Bai Hua Arrange lettuce leaves in a Slice half the garlic and fry
Niang Xian Guo shallow bowl and put the gently in oil until crisp and golden.
11/2 teaspoons white rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Shrimp-stuffed Lychees lychees on top. Prepare sauce by. Drain and set aside. Chop the
1/2 teaspoon salt bringing stock, oil and salt to a remaining garlic very finely and
3/4 cup (185 mil chicken stock A fine example of the creativity boil. Lower heat and thicken scatter a little over each mussel.
1 scallion (spring onion), finely and delicacy of Cantonese food. with cornstarch, then stir in Sprinkle with chicken stock
sliced IT you cannot obtain fresh lychees, the egg white and remove from powder, sugar and soy sauce.
2 teaspoons cornstarch, blended use canned fruit, but rinse well the heat. Pour over the lychees Put inside a steamer and cook
with water to remove any sugar syrup. and serve immediately. over high heat for 3 minutes.
Cut 4 or 5 deep diagonal slashes Garnish with the fried garlic,
on each side of the fish to help it 8 oz (250 g) peeled shrimp, finely chili, scallion, and cilantro and
cook more quickly, Marinate the chopped or blended serve immediately.
fish for 15 minutes with ginger, 1 teaspoon salt
chopped scallion, pepper, and 1 teaspoon cornstarch
rice wine, Drain fish and scrape 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper Steamed Mussels with Minced Garlic (outside of plate)
off any pieces of the marinade, 10 fresh or canned Iychees, peeled
Dry thoroughly, and stones removed
Heat a wok and add oil. Few lettuce leaves for garnish
When the oil is hot, sprinkle Cilantro (coriander) leaf to garnish
the fish on both sides with corn- Chili flakes to garnish (optional)
starch, shaking it to remove any
excess. Carefully lower the fish Sauce
into the oil and cook, over mod- 1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
erate heat, for about 5-8 minutes 1 teaspoon cooking oil
until golden brown and cooked 1/2 teaspoon sa It
through. Drain and keep warm 1 teaspoon cornstarch,
on a serving dish. mixed with water
Discard all but 1 teaspoon of 2 egg whites
the frying oil. To prepare the Mix together the shrimp, salt,
sauce, stir-fry the chili paste, cornstarch and pepper. Divide
garlic and ginger for a few seconds mixture in 10 portions. Sprinkle
until fragrant, then add all other the inside of each lychee with
ingredients, except cornstarch. a dusting of additional corn-
Simmer for 2 minutes, then starch and stuff with the shrimp
thicken with cornstarch. Pour the paste, pushing it in well. Put
sauce over the fish and garnish the lychees on a plate and steam
with scallion. Serve immediately. over high heat for 6-8 minutes,

44 1 THE FOOD OF ASIA ,-I ________________________________________________ ~ MAIN DISHES
1



You Bao You Yu Juan
Squid with Bamboo Shoots

As is common in Asia, Chinese
, cooks often score the squid so
that it has an attractive "pine
cone" appearance after cooking,

1 Ib (500 g) fresh squid, peeled
and cleaned
1 cup (100 g) bamboo shoots
1/4 cucumber
1 carrot
Oil for deep-frying
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1 scallion (spring onion), sliced
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cornstarch, blended
with water
Cut the cleaned squid in half
lengthwise and score each piece
with a sharp knife in a diamond
pattern, taking care not to cut
right through the flesh, Cut
the scored squid into pieces
about 2112 x 3/4 in (6 x 2 cm),
Dry thoroughly.
Thinly slice bamboo shoots,
cucumber, and carrot length-
wise, then cut into 2-in (5-cm) Beggar's Chicken
pieces. bird inside. This version encases Make the dough wrapping first.
Heat oil and, when very hot, the chicken in an edible bread Sift flour into a bowl. add all
deep-fry the squid for 5 seconds Qi Gai Ji dough instead of mud! other ingredients and mix well
only. Drain and set aside. Pour Beggar's Chicken to make a pliable dough. Add
out all but 1 teaspoon of the oil a little more water or flour if
and reheat it. Stir-fry the garlic According to legend, this dish 1 fresh chicken, about 3 Ib necessary to achieve the right
for a few seconds until fragrant, was created by a poor man who (11/2 kg), cleaned consistency. Cover and leave to
then add the squid and stir-fry stole a chicken. He was about to 2 dried lotus leaves or parchment rise while preparing chicken.
for 1 minute. Add the bamboo cook it on a fire when the pepper Combine all ingredients for
shoots, cucumber, carrot, landowner passed by. To conceal the stuffing, mixing well. Stuff
and scallion and stir-fry for it, he hastily wrapped the chicken Stuffing the chicken and close each end
1 minute. Season with rice in mud and tossed it on the fire. 5 oz (150 g) pork, finely shredded with a strong toothpick. Wrap
wine and salt. then thicken with Later, when the danger had 3 oz (90 g) preserved dried vegetable in the lotus leaves, overlapping
cornstarch. Serve immediately. passed, he broke open the mud (me; cat), finely chopped to enclose the chicken. Put on
casing to find a succulent cooked 5 dried black mushrooms, soaked
and shredded a plate and steam over high
3 in (8 cm) ginger, finely shredded heat for 30 minutes.
1-2 scallions (spring onions), Knead the dough and roll
finely sliced out into a rectangle large
2 teaspoons chicken stock powder enough to enclose the chicken.
2 teaspoons sugar Put steamed chicken in the
2 teaspoons light soy sauce dough and close, pinching well
3 tablespoons rice wine to seal. Bake at 375°P (190'C,
Pinch of powdered ginger gas mark 5) until the dough is
golden brown (about 15 min-
Dough utes). Cut open at the table and
serve the chicken and stuffing.
8 cups (1 kg) all-purpose
The dough can also be eaten.
(plain) flour
4 teaspoons dried yeast
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups (500 ml) warm water

Squid with Bamboo Shoots

MAIN DISHES L I ______________________________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 45



Add all other shrimp paste
Cui Pi San Dong Ji HELPFUL HINT Pi Pa Xia ingredients and process just until
Deep-fried Shandong Chicken Dried chilies give this dish a Pi Pa Shrimp well blended. Grease tiny Chinese
smoky finish, so do try to get wine or egg cups with a little oil,
Like many Chinese recipes. this them. If using fresh chi lies, This dish is fancifully named then divide the shrimp paste
among these, packing it in firmly.
dish from the northeastern don't dry-fry but add with the after the pi pa, a classical Peel the medium shrimp,
province of Shandong involves garlic and ginger so that they Chinese stringed instrument, discarding heads and shells but
two methods of cooking: the cook through. which the shrimp are thought leaving on the tail for a more
chicken is first simmered very to resemble. Whole shrimp are decorative appearance. Push the
gently. then deep-fried. It is dipped into a blended shrimp head end of each shrimp into a
served with a clear. non-thick- paste and steamed. They can be paste-filled cup, leaving the tail
ened sauce with a slightly hot Gong Bao Ji Ding set aside for a few hours and end protruding. Repeat until all
and sour edge to it. This is a dish Chicken with Dried Chilies deep-fried just before serving. the shrimp are used up, then
that can be partially prepared in
advance: simmer and dry the 1 Ib (500 g) chicken breast 12 large shrimp steam for 20 minutes. Allow to
chicken and keep for several 1/2 teaspoon salt Oil for deep-frying cool. then remove from the
hours before the final frying. 1 egg white 1 egg white, lightly beaten cups with the tip of a knife.
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine Just before the dish is required,
2 tablespoons cornstarch prepare the sauce by bringing
1 fresh chicken, about 21/2 Ib 2 teaspoons cornstarch 12 small Chinese wine cups or stock, wine and salt to a boil.
(11/4 kg) Oil for deep-frying egg cups Thicken with cornstarch and
112 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic keep warm.
Oil for deep-frying 1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger Shrimp Paste Heat oil for deep-frying in a
1 scallion (spring onion), white 1 tablespoon black soy sauce 10 oz (300 g) shrimp wok. Dust each steamed shrimp
part only, shredded 1 tablespoon white rice vinegar 6 tablespoons lard, diced with a little cornstarch. dip into
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped and 1 teaspoon sugar 1 dried black mushroom, soaked the egg white and deep-fry until
2-3 dried chilies, cut in 1/2-in
deep-fried and finely chopped golden brown. Put on a serving
(1-cm) pieces, dry-fried until
1 tablespoon finely chopped dish and pour the sauce over
crisp and lightly browned
Sauce bamboo shoot or water chestnut the top.
1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion
1 red chili, deseeded and sliced 1 teaspoon salt
(spring onion)
4 cloves garlic, sliced 2 egg whites
2 tablespoons fried peanuts,
1 teaspoon ch iii paste 2 tablespoons cornstarch Deep-fried Shandong Chicken
skinned
1 cup (250 mil chicken stock
1 tablespoon light soy sauce Cut the chicken breast into Sauce
1/4 cup (60 mil white rice vinegar pieces about 1/4 in x 3/4 in 1 cup (250 mil chicken stock
2 tablespoons sugar or honey (1/2 X 2 cm). Mix the chicken 1 teaspoon rice wi ne
Salt to taste pieces well with salt, egg white, Salt to taste
wine and cornstarch. Set aside 2 teaspoons cornstarch,
Rub the chicken inside and out for 2-3 minutes while heating blended with water
with salt and set aside for 30 oil for deep-frying. Deep-fry the
minutes. Bring a large pot of chicken over very high heat for Prepare the shrimp
water to a boil and put in the about 30 seconds, drain and paste first. Peel the
chicken. Lower heat to the mini- set aside. shrimp, discarding
mum and simmer the chicken Tip out all but 1 teaspoon of heads, tails, and
for 30 minutes. Drain the chick- oil from the wok. stir-fry the garlic shells. Devein.
en. pat dry and hang in an airy and ginger for a few seconds, Process shrimp in
place to dry thoroughly. then add soy sauce, vinegar, and a blender for a few
Just before the dish is sugar. Stir well and put in the seconds with the
required. heat oil for deep frying chicken, dried chilies and scallion diced lard.
in a wok. To ensure a crisp tex- and and stir-fry for 3-4 minutes.
ture. make sure the chicken is Stir in the fried peanuts and
thoroughly dry (a brief session serve immediately.
with a hair dryer sometimes
helps). Lower the whole chick-
en. breast side down, into the oil
and fry for about 5 minutes
until golden brown. Turn and
fry the other side for another 5
minutes. Remove chicken from
oil. drain, chop into bite-sized Chicken with
pieces and arrange on a serving Dried Chilies
dish deep enough to contain
11/2 cups (375 ml) sauce.
Tip out all the oil from the
wok but do not wipe. Add
the sauce ingredients and
simmer for 2 minutes. Pour
over the chicken and garnish
with scallion and fried garlic.

46 1 THE F 00 D 0 F A S I A LI ____________________________ ---'1 DES S E R T S


The most popular Chinese Wash the fungus well. then soak
dessert is a platter of sliced, in warm water for 1 hour.
fresh fruits. For more formal Remove the stems and any tough
banquets one of the desserts portions and cut into bite-sized
in this section may be served; pieces. Set aside.
however, these are more Heat rock sugar and water in
commonly eaten as snacks a pan, stirring until sugar dis-
or as a late-night supper. solves. Pour into a bowl and add
the white fungus. Cover the bowl
and put in a steamer. Steam for
1112 hours until the fungus is
Bing Tang Yin Er soft. Leave to cool, then chill.
White Fungus with Melon Balls Just before serving, make
small balls of the melon. Add to
White fungus is virtually taste- the chilled fungus and serve in
less. but is prized for its texture small individual bowls.
as well as its health-giving
properties. Serve warm or chilled.
Lian Zi Hong Dou Sha
Red Bean Soup
11/2 oz (50 g) dried white fungus
1/2 cup (90 g) rock sugar
1/2 cup (50 g) dried or canned
3 cups (750 mil water
lotus nuts
3 oz (90 g) Hami melon. rock melon
1 cup (250 g) dried red azuki beans Red Bean Pancakes
or honeydew
1 strip dried or fresh orange peel
4 cups (1 liter) water
Dou Sha Wo Bing Ba Si Ping Guo
1/2-3/4 cup sugar
Red Bean Pancakes Candied Apples
If canned red bean paste is not Make sure you have everything
available, soak 112 cup red beans laid out before you start cooking.
for 2 hours. Steam until soft
with a strip of dried orange peel. 4 large green apples, peeled, cored
Mash, adding sugar to taste. and cut into 8 slices
Oil for deep-frying
11/4 cups (150 g) all-purpose
(plain) flour BaUer
1/4 teaspoon custard powder 1 cup (125 g) all-purpose (plain)
1 egg flour
Water to mix 2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 oz (125 g) red bean paste 1 teaspoon baking soda
Oil for shallow-frying 1/2 beaten egg
Water as required
Combine flour, custard powder,
egg, and sufficient water to Syrup
make a batter the consistency 1/2 cup sugar
of thin cream. Heat wok and 2 tablespoons water
grease with 1 teaspoon oil,
swirling the wok around so that Prepare the batter by combining
If using dried lotus nuts, the oil covers all sides. Pour in all ingredients, adding enough
soak in hot water for 1112 about 114 cup of the batter and water to achieve the consistency
hours, drain, peel and use swirl the wok around to make a of a thick cream.
a toothpick to push out thin pancake. Cook until the top Heat the sugar and water over
the bitter central core. If of the pancake has set and the moderate heat, stirring, until
using canned nuts, drain underside is golden. Remove, the syrup turns golden brown.
and discard liquid. set aside and repeat until the Keep warm.
Soak the red beans in warm batter is used up. Ready a bowl of iced water
water to cover for 30 min- Place the pancakes, browned and a greased serving dish. Heat
utes. Drain and combine side up, on a flat surface. Spread the oil until very hot. Dip slices of
with orange peel and water the center of each pancake with apple, a few at a time. into the
and simmer gently, covered, for bean paste and fold in the edges batter and fry until golden
1 hour. Add the lotus nuts and to enclose the paste. Heat a little brown. Remove from oil, drain,
cook for 1 more hour. Add sugar oil in a wok and fry the stuffed and dip into the syrup, turning
to taste and stir until dissolved. pancake until golden. Cut into to coat thoroughly. Plunge apple
Serve warm.
bite-sized pieces and serve. slices into the iced water to set the
White Fungus with Melon Balls syrup into a toffee-like coating,
then put on the serving dish.
Serve immediately.

STOCKS, SAUCES & CONDIMENTS ~I ______________________________________________ ~I CHINA I 47


uncovered, for 2 hours. Keep
Chili Oil removing any scum or impurities Soy and Ginger Dip Sesame Sauce
as they rise to the top of the
pan. Strain stock through
3/4 CUp (175 mil peanut oil 2 teaspoons light soy sauce 4 tablespoons sesame paste
cheesecloth. This can be made
1 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns 2 tablespoons very finely chopped 4 tablespoons cold chicken stock
in large quantities and frozen in
2 dried chilies, sliced ginger 1 teaspoon sesame oil
smaller portions for future use.
1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion 1/2 teaspoon salt
Heat wok and add oil, pepper- (spring onion) 1/2 teaspoon sugar
corns and chilies. Cook over low 1/2 teaspoon sugar
heat for 10 minutes. Allow to Pickled Garlic 2 tablespoons peanut oil Mix all ingredients well and
cool, then store in a covered jar 1 tablespoon sesame oil serve with any seafood dish.
for 2-3 days. Strain and discard
peppercorns and chilies. Store oil 30 green chilies, sliced Combine soy sauce, ginger,
in a tightly sealed jar and keep 1 4 cups (1 liter) white rice vinegar scallion, and sugar. Heat both
in a cool place for up to 6 months. 1 teaspoon salt oils together until they smoke,
Bring water to a boil in a pan, then pour over the ginger
add the garlic and remove from mixture and stir. Serve
immediately with
Sichuan Pepper Oil the heat. Add remaining ingre- steamed chicken
dients and leave to coo!. Put
garlic in a covered jar, top with or fish.
I 2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns liquid and marinate for 3 days
3/4 cup (175 mil peanut oil
before using. Drain and serve as
an accompaniment or appetizer.
Stir-fry peppercorns in dry wok
until fragrant. Add the oil and
cook over low heat for 10 min-
utes. Allow to cool, then store in Ginger Garlic Sauce
a covered jar for 2-3 days. Strain
and discard peppercorns. Store oil
in a tightly sealed jar and keep 1 oz (30 g) young ginger
in a cool place for up to 6 months. 6 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Gourmet Stock 1 tablespoon cooking oil

Blend ginger and garlic.
1 Ib (500 g) pork ribs, blanched
Combine with all other
12 oz (375 g) chicken pieces,
ingredients. Put in a covered
blanched
jar and shake just before
12 oz (375 g) duck pieces,
serving. Good with boiled
blanched meats.
12 oz (375 g) smoked ham hock
2 spring onions, coarsely chopped
2 in (5 em) ginger, sliced
Chili Garlic Sauce
1/4 cup (60 mil Chinese rice wine
20 cups (5 liters) water
Combine all ingredients and 5 red chilies, chopped Ginger Garlic Sauce (top),
simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours. 3 cloves garlic, chopped Chili Garlic Sauce (above
Strain stock through cheesecloth. 3 tablespoons white rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar left) and sliced chilies in
soy sauce (no recipe)
1/2 teaspoon sal

Chicken Stock Process all ingredients in a
blender until fine. Keep refriger- Ginger and Black
ated in a covered jar. Serve with Vinegar Dip
1 old hen or 3 Ib (1 1 /2 kg) chicken
steamed poultry or with rice
pieces
and other cooked dishes 3 in (8 cm) young ginger, scraped
1 celery stalk, with leaves still
1 and very finely shredded
attached, chopped
3 tablespoons black rice vinegar
2 in (5 cm) ginger, bruised
10 cups (2 1 /2 liters) water
Combine ginger and vinegar.
Plunge the hen or chicken Serve with Peking dumplings
pieces into a large pan of boiling and other dim sum dishes.
water and simmer for 1 minute.
Discard water and refill pan with
water and all other ingredients.
Bring to a boil and simmer gently,

"Cooking and eating ·
Indian cuisine
is a discovery
of the culture,
the richly varied
history and the spicy
treasures of this
fascinating land."

____________________________________________________________________ ~I INDIA I 49























Three thousand years of tradition and change are
reflected in the cuisine of the subcontinent.



























Left: The ultimate in
Indian dining, an elegant-
ly laid antique table set
with thalis of Rajasthani
food, while attentive
retainers hover nearby.

Right: One of the peaceful
canals that criss-cross the
southern state of Kerala.

The Land and its People
India is a vast and ancient land, with a recorded
history that dates back over three thousand Located in southern Asia, India ranges from the
years. It is divided into many provinces that Himalayas in the north to the great Gangetic plain
stretch from the snowy mountains of Kashmir to with its immense and sacred waters, to the lush
the southern tip of verdant Kerala, from the tropical splendor of Kerala in the south. With its
harsh arid deserts of Rajasthan in the west considerable land area-it is the seventh largest
across to the remote tribal region of Assam country in the world-India naturally encompass-
along the Burmese border. Thus India has it es four defined seasons.
all-from palm-fringed beaches to desert, and In the cooler north and in the Gangetic plain of
bustling cities to small one-ox towns. the middle and eastern part of India, rice and
This is also the land that gave rise to two of wheat are the main staples; while in the deserts of
the world's major religions, Buddhism and Rajasthan and Gujarat, it is millet and corn. Rice is
Hinduism, and produced Jainism and Sikhism. also a basic food in the eastern belt of India, where
Caste, too, plays its role in influencing the food its large and fertile alluvial lands make it an ideal
of the people. rice-growing region. Along the coastal area of
With all these differences Indian cuisine Kerala, fish and meat are the basic foods in the
may seem undefinable, but there are enough people's diet.
common strands that combine to form a Spices, the foundation of Indian cooking, are
thrilling and exciting tapestry. widely cultivated according to region. Cardamom,
cloves and peppers are harvested mainly in the
south, while Rajasthan, Kashmir, and Gujarat are
known for their chilies and turmeric. One of the