Food of Asia

50 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ________________________________________________________________ __


were absorbed into the flesh, and those which were
transformed into thought or mind. The last were the
finest and rarest of foods and referred to as manas. The
term prasad was used for food left over from offerings to
the gods, food which was considered nectar, left no trace,
and which maintained man's spirituality.
Food was classified into different categories: cereals,
legumes, vegetables, fruit, spices, milk products, animal
meats, and alcoholic beverages. This was the time when
ghee or clarified butter emerged as a popular cooking
medium because of its associations with purity, as it was
used in religious sacrifices and offerings. Most traditional
Indian cooking in the north still uses cholesterol-high
ghee, although modern Indians have switched to
cooking oil.
Ancient food habits were altered by religion and trade,
through occupation and invasion, with Indian cuisines
becoming more varied and vibrant. Religion was a major
influence in changing food habits, with Buddhism and
Jainism starting the frrst indigenous movements which
challenged Hindu practices. Abstinence, austerity and
simplicity were the tenets of changes which questioned,
among other things, the eating of meat. Jainism under-
lined the importance of innocent foods and vegetarianism
was born. Sikhism followed to reaffirm simplicity, with
tobacco and alcohol becoming inscribed targets.
Geography also plays a role in what is served. In
Above: Nutmegs being weighed in the wholesale spice market of Cochin. Gujarat, nasto is made from Bengal gram flour (besan) mixed with an
Right: A southern Indian thali with an array of vegetables, pickle, soup, assortment of spices and fried. Chevda or beaten rice is fried and
rice, bread, banana, and dessert.
mixed with salt, spices, almonds, raisins, and peanuts. The Pars is
glorious sights of Kashmir is the fields of purple-blue crocuses, brought with them a strong meat-eating tradition and a love of egg
source of the world's most expensive spice, saffron. dishes, raisins, nuts, butter and cream. They inevitably absorbed
Islam has been in India since the 8th century, but it was not until Gujarati influences and a hybrid cuisine developed. One of the most
the 16th century that the Muslims gained control over large parts of famous of these dishes is the Parsi fish steamed in banana-leaf pack-
India. The Mughal dynasties, which ruled various independent states ets. Another is dhansak, a one-pot meal that combines several types
of pre- Independence India, upstaged the mainstream Hindu culture of dal with spices, meat, and vegetables.
and cuisine significantly.
Besides the Muslims and Hindus, Jewish settlers also came to
Kerala in AD 7, bringing with them the notion of kosher meat. The
Christians settled here during the fourth century AD. Zoroastrians
came and settled in large numbers when they were hounded out of
Persia as far back as AD 850. Parsis, as they are now known, settled
largely in Gujarat.
Besides the British, other Europeans who established them-
selves in India were the Portuguese, who remained largely in Goa,
north of Kerala, from the 16th century until after Indian indepen-
dence from the British.


The Making of a Cuisine
The Vedas, ancient historical and religiOUS texts dating from
1700-1500 Be, set the framework for what is broadly
lmown as Hindu culture. They record the civilization of the
Aryans or nomadic tribes from the upper Urals, who
traveled as far east as India on one side and as far west as
Ireland on the other. Most Hindu food practices were influ-
enced by the Aryans, beginning in the north and the north-
west of India and gradually spreading all over the country.
The Aryans did not treat food simply as a means to
physical sustenance but saw it as part of a cosmic circle,
their dictum being that "food that man eats and his universe
must be in harmony. " Food, they believed, can be grouped
into three types: those which needed expulsion, those which

J I N D I A I 5



N e w flavors, rich relishes, meats with cream and butter
sauces, dates, nuts, and delectable sweets were the hallmarks
of Mughal cuisine, which is widely known and famed for its
exotic non-vegetarian food

Finally, the period of British colonial rule in India—th

Raj—has left an indelible mark on both the food and eatin
practices of this country. In middle-class homes, the dinin

table replaced the kitchen floor and porcelain, the banana
leaf. Cutlery was introduced.
The blending of eastern spices into "western" food bega


at this time, and some of these "crossings" have endured t
this day: kedgeree (a rice and lentil mixture, known a

kkhidee in India), mulligatawny soup (literally, pepper wate

or mooloogoo thani), and the ubiquitous curry. Curry is a

catch-all term used initially by the Raj to refer to any sauce
dish of spicy meat, fish or vegetables and is probably a cor-

ruption of the Tamil word for sauce "kari."
The Food of the Peopl

In temperate Kashmir, tucked into the Himalayas, the food i

characterized by a subtle blend of fragrant spices, richness

and pungency. Some of the most popular dishes includ

lamb marinated in yogurt; mutton simmered in milk an



scented with nutmeg; and rich meat curries


In the Ganges, plain rice is usually accompanied b

vegetables sauteed with spices, dal, unleavened bread, plai
yogurt, and a sweet. Chutneys and pickles are commonplace.
Bengali cuisine is considered elaborate and refined


Bengal being the only place in India where food is served i

individual courses, the sequence of which is based on ancien Offerings of coconut, bananas, flowers and incense on display at a

beliefs relating to the aiding of the digestive process. Fish plays market stall in a typical southern Indian village.
large part in this cuisine, as do rice, dal, and chutney




In the south, where rice is the staple, it appears in many guises variety, color and aroma—from the sweetness of cumin and corian-







steamed, puffed, made into paper-thin crepes known as dosay der to the pungency of asafoetida and turmeric. In a culinary sense
I page 5 5) or steamed to form idli, which are served with a variety "spices" as used in India embraces dried seeds, berries, bark, rhi-









of chutneys, vegetables and light dal broths known as zomes, flowers, leaves, and chilies. These may be used dried or fresh
In Karnataka, the central southern state, the basic meal consist come in the form of pods or seeds, be roasted, ground or put into ho






of vegetables which accompany dosay, idli or steamed rice. Popular oil to expel their flavors. Certain spices are used whole, others alway






southern vegetables include eggplants and bitter gourd, and lots of ground; some are used only with meat, since they would overpowe


relishes are served to punctuate a meal. more delicate seafood and vegetable dishes. Some, such as car-


Goans are known for their use of vinegar and kokum fruit (othe damom, saffron, and cinnamon, are also used for desserts







Indians add sourness with tamarind, lime juice or dried mango pow- Any combination of spices is referred to as a masala. The most


der), and. of course, for their love of fiery chilies. Classic examples o widely used is garam masala, a fragrant combination of cinnamon



Goan dishes include the pork curry vindaloo, which gets its name cloves, black pepper, and cardamom, with the optional addition o








from the Portuguese words for vinegar and garlic, and sorpotel, a nutmeg, mace, and saffron in northern regions. The spices are the
sour hot curry of pork, liver, and pig's blood. combined with fresh rhizomes and leaves such as ginger, garlic



We can't leave the food of the people without making mention o turmeric, garlic, mint, and chilies





the food of the Raj. The culinary fusion has yielded piquant dishe The medicinal properties of spices are always taken into accoun
that pay homage to their roots; the spiced chutneys and curries o when food is prepared, as well as the interaction of each spice with




today have their humble beginnings in the Indian kitchen the natural properties of a particular vegetable or dal.



The Indian kitchen is a place of surprising simplicity: it has

stove, often heated by charcoal, and a few implements such as the

The Indian Table and Kitche kadai (a wok-like utensil), straight-sided pots, and pans.


At the heart of Indian cuisine is spice—carefully overlaid, one on th The house guest is looked on as a visiting god in India, an




other, into dishes, with care. The use of spices in India was recorde treated with attendant respect. By and large, home food is influence


in Sanskrit texts three thousand years ago. by such factors as climate, nutritional balance and religion, and i

Walk into an Indian home at meal time or into a good India usually simple fare, where rice, bread, and dal constitute the cor



restaurant and you will be engulfed by a wave of heavenly aromas of the meal. Each region and household then adds its distinctive









So great was the importance of spices for seasoning, as preservative touch with the vegetables, meat and fish, and the palate teasers:
and as medicine that the search for their source pushed th the pickles, pappadums, raita, or chutneys.




Kuropeans into the Age of Exploration in the 15th century All Indian food is served with either rice or bread, or both. In th


The Indian kitchen's range of spices is hard to beat in terms o cooler north, breads are commonplace; in the south, rice is the

52 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~I __________________________________________________________________ __


































































The richness of Mughal cuisine-the food of emperors-has seen its The sweet. which is milk-based. completes the meal. although in
popularity spread throughout India and the rest of the world. the south it is followed by rice with curds or buttermilk which are
believed to soothe the stomach after a spicy meal.
staple. Food is generally served on a banana leaf or a stainless steel A very Indian end to a meal is the betel leaf and its seasonings or
thali. Washing the hands before meals is an important ritual. since paan. The leaf is chewed along with a slice of areca nut, a dab of
Indians generally use their fingers to eat and the meal is eaten squat- slaked lime and a smear of katha paste (another wood extract). The
ting down. usually on the kitchen floor. A small straw mat is placed betel quid can mean many things: hospitality. moral and legal com-
for sitting and the thali or banana leaf is laid in front of the mat. mitment. a digestive. and a fitting end to the remarkable hospitality
either on the floor or on a low stool. displayed during a meal.
Families eat together. except for the mother or wife who serves Many of the curries in this chapter store very well--indeed many
the meal. In middle-class homes. this role is taken over by the house- people believe that curries taste better the day after they are made.
hold help. The family usually sits in a straight line and the women of since the flavors are allowed to mature. You may wish to double the
the household serve and refill the thali repeatedly. quantities of whatever you're making and freeze a batch in an air-
The thali contains all the courses of the meal. but there is usually tight container--very convenient for quick meals and if unexpected
an order in which the food is eaten. The first mouthfuls of rice are guests turn up!
eaten with ghee or chutney and spicy additives. Dal is served with a If properly stored. many of the condiments will keep for up to
variety of dry-cooked vegetables seasoned with different spices and a month in the refrigerator. Just make sure you use a clean. dry
garnishes. Pappadums and relishes are replenished. as are the dal spoon when taking any from the jar and seal the top with a thin
and rice. The best portions of fish and meat are always offered to the film of vegetable oil before refrigerating. However. it is worthwhile
guest. Roti or unleavened bread. puri and paratha are common in the roasting and grinding spices for the garam masala as you need it. as
north and eaten with dal and vegetables. ground spices lose their aroma very quickly.

SUGGESTED MENUS


A family meal A dinner party A regional menu A melting pot menu

What's so good about this menu, For a dinner party that mixes For a gastronomic tour around An all-Asian menu:
apart from how delicious every- the familiar with the more the country, offer curries from • from Indonesia, Karedok, the
thing is, is that most of it can be exotic, serve the following foods: the different regions in India: Indonesian raw vegetable
cooked ahead and served at • Plantain and Potato Balls • Lemon Rice (page 56) and salad (page 74), accompa-
room temperature if you like. (page 55); some bread (the Puris [page nied by CriSp Peanut Wafers
• Samosa (page 54) and some • Skewered Homemade Cheese 54] are particularly elegant); (page 73);
Pakora (page 54); (page 57) and skewered • Spiced Potatoes in Yogurt (page • Indian Crab Curry (page 60)
• Spiced Chickpeas (page 57) pieces of Tandoori Chicken 57), Mild Chicken Curry served with lots of plain rice
and Chicken Tikka (page 59) (page 58); with these you (page 58), some Goan Pork or, for a change, dosay
with a fresh green salad and should serve a selection Curry (page 61), and (page 55);
a selection of breads (or just of raitas and chutneys Creamy Shrimp Curry (page • Thai Rice Balls in Coconut
one type); (page 64) (you may wish 60); Milk (page 168).
• fresh fruit with Kulfi (page 63). to buy the latter if you • Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup
do not want to make (page 63).
your own);
• Gulab Jamun (page 63) that
have been gently dusted with
edible gold or silver foil.








THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF INDIAN COOKING

Spices are the backbone of Indian cooking, so buy the freshest you can to roast and grind-cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, fennel
seeds, and fenugreek-as you need. Chilies, dried and fresh, are pounded and sliced into cooking pastes with garlic, onions, and ginger.
Lentils and beans, breads and basmati rice are eaten with curries. Saffron and turmeric are used to add flavor and color to dishes. Yogurt
is not only used in both sweet and savory dishes but is also the main ingredient in lassi, a popular drink.

54 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~__________________________________________________________ ~I BREADS
I


Here are the recipes for all for 10 to 15 minutes or process and cover with a cloth. Heat Rub ghee or butter into the flour
those tasty morsels you see at at low speed for 5 minutes. Roll plenty of oil in a wok until very until the mixture is crumbly.
the local Indian corner store or into a ball. cover witha damp hot. Put in a puri and immedi- Mix in the carom seeds and salt.
take-away. The fried items cloth and set aside for at least ately start flicking hot oil over the then add sufficient water to make
such as samosas and pakoras 1 hour. top of it with a spatula so that it a firm but pliable dough. Leave
are ideal for parties, and the Knead the dough again for will swell up like a ball. This for 30 minutes. covered with a
breads are ideal for mopping 3 to 4 minutes. then break into should take only a few seconds. damp cloth.
up all those curry juices. And pieces the size of a golf ball. Flip the puri over and cook on the Prepare the filling. Saute
don't think that all fried foods Flatten into a circle with your other side until golden brown. the cumin seeds in the oil until
are fatty and greasy-as long hands. then roll out into circles Serve immediately with curries. they crackle. add remaining
as you keep the oil hot and about 8 in (20 cm) in diameter. dal or vegetables. ingredients and saute for
drain the items well, they are Heat a heavy griddle (tawa) 1 minute. Leave to cool. Roll
truly delicious and will not or frying pan until very hot. out the pastry thinly. then cut
leave you feeling heavy. Put on a chapati and cook until into 3-in (7 1 12-cm) circles.
brown spots appear underneath. Samosa Cut each circle in half. Put a
Turn over and cook the other Vegetable-stuffed Pastries spoonful of filling on one
side, pressing on the top of the semi-circle of pastry and roll
Chapati chapati with a clean cloth to help 7 tablespoons (100 g) ghee or over the top. pressing the edges
Unleavened Bread make air bubbles form and keep butter firmly to seal. Heat oil and deep-
the chapati light. As each chapati 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose (plain) fry the samosas until golden
For the best result. chapati should is cooked. wrap in a clean cloth flour brown. Drain and serve with a
be properly kneaded; using slow to keep warm. Serve with 1/2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain) chutney or chili sauce.
speed and a plastic blade in a curries. dal or vegetables. 1/2 teaspoon salt
food processor is an acceptable Water to make a firm dough
alternative to 10 to 15 minutes Oil for deep-frying
of hand-kneading. Pakora
Puri Batter-coated Vegetables

2 cups (250 g) very fine whole Deep-fried Bread Filling
3 tablespoons oil
wheat (wholemeall flour (atta), 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 potato, peeled
or all-purpose (plain) flour Puri are a delicious alternative 8 oz (250 g) potato, boiled in 1 small eggplant (aubergine)
About 1/2 cup (125 mil warm to chapati and use exactly the salted water and very finely 1 large onion
water same dough. To ensure they puff diced 2 cups (250 g) Bengal gram or
2 teaspoons softened ghee or up when cooking. keep flicking 1/3 cup (50 g) green peas, cooked chickpea flour (besan)
butter the oil over the top while the 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon salt
puri are frying. 1 teaspoon chili powder
Mix the flour and water in a bowl 1 teaspoon coriander powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
to make a dough that is pliable 1 quantity chapati dough 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder (bicarbonate of soda)
yet not too sticky. Add ghee or I Oil for deep-frying 1/2 -1 teaspoon chili powder Water as required
butter and turn the mixture out 1 green chili. deseeded and finely
onto a floured board or put in a Roll out the dough as for chapati. chopped Cut the potato in half length-
food processor. Knead by hand make into 8-in (20-cm) circles 1 teaspoon dried mango powder wise. then cut in slices about
1/4 in (1/2 cm) thiclc Do not
Deep-fried Bread peel the eggplant but cut in
slices the same size as the
potato. Peel the onion and slice
the same thickness. Set the
vegetables aside.
Combine the flour. salt.
chili. and baking soda. mixing
well. Add enough cold water
to make a very thick batter of
coating consistency.
Heat oil and dip the vegeta-
bles, one at a time. into the
batter. coating thoroughly.
Deep-fry until half-cooked
(about 2 to 3 minutes). then
drain and set aside. Just before
the pakora are needed. reheat
the oil and deep-fry until golden
brown and cooked through.
Serve hot.

INDIA I 55




Vecchu Paratha
Flaky Fried Bread

4 cups (500 g) all-purpose (plain)
A southern Indian flour, sifted
breakfast favorite, these 3 eggs, lightly beaten
tangy pancakes are often 1 teaspoon salt
served with fresh Coconut 1 cup (250 mil water
Chutney and Tomato Chutney; 3/4 cup (180 mil oil
with dal as a dip. Alternatively,
they can be stuffed with spiced Make a very soft dough with
potato to make Masala Dosay. flour, eggs, salt and water,
kneading well. Divide into balls
3 cups (550 g) long-grain rice about 2 in (10 em) in diameter,
1 cup (220 g) husked blackgram cover with a damp cloth and
dal (urad dafJ leave to stand for 30 minutes.
Spread out each ball on a
1 teaspoon salt
well-oiled tabletop, pulling the
1 onion, cut in half
edge gently with the hands to
3 tablespoons oil
Pimztain and Potato Balls stretch it out as wide and as thin
Put the rice and dal into separate as possible, as for a strudel. Dust
bowls, cover each with water the surface with flour and fold
and soalc overnight. Grind the over and over to make a fan. Roll
Naan Kele Ka Tikka rice and dal separately in a food up the pleated dough to make a
Tandoor-baked Bread Plantain and Potato Balls processor, adding a little water if curled ball and leave to rest for
necessary to obtain a smooth 15 minutes. Use your hands to
This bread gets its characteristic 3/4 Ib (350 g) plantains, steamed consistency. Mix the ground rice pat the ball into circles about 6 in
tear-drop shape from the way until soft (see Note) and dal together and leave at in diameter, or use a rolling pin.
the dough droops as it cooks on 5 oz (150 g) boiled potatoes, room temperature for up to 24 Oil a griddle or heavy frying
the wall of a tandoor. mashed hours to ferment. The dough pan and cook the bread, turning
1 teaspoon chaat masala can now be refrigerated for up so that it is golden brown on
4 cups (500 g) all-purpose (page 64) to 24 hours until required. each side. Repeat until all the
(plain) flour 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, Stir the dough, adding salt dough is used up. Serve hot
1/2 teaspoon baking powder toasted and ground and sufficient water to achieve with dal or curries.
1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon garam masala the consistency of a very thiclc
1/2 cup (125 mil milk (page 64) cream. Heat a nonstick pan or
1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt heavy griddle and rub with half
1 egg 3/4 in (2 cm) ginger, finely an onion. Grease lightly with a
4 tablespoons oi I chopped little of the oil and pour in a
....
1 teaspoon nigella seeds 1 heaped tablespoon chopped ladle (about 1/4 cup, or 60 ml).-~_r_
cilantro (coriander) leaves of the batter, smearing
Sift the flour, baking powder, 2 green chilies, deseeded and finely it quickly with the
and salt together into a bowl chopped back of the ladle
and make a well in the middle. 1 heaped tablespoon cornstarch to form a thin
Mix the milk, sugar, egg, and 4 oz (100 g) fine wheat vermicelli, pancake about
2 tablespoons of the oil in a broken into small pieces 5 to 6 in (12 to
bowl. Pour this into the center Oil for deep-frying 15 em) in
of the flour and knead, adding diameter. Cook
more water if necessary to form Grate the steamed plantains, for about 2 to
a soft dough. Add the remaining then combine with the potato 3 minutes
oil, knead again, then cover and all other ingredients, except until the bot-
with a damp cloth and allow the vermicelli and oil. Mix well, tom is golden
dough to stand for 15 minutes. then shape into balls and roll in and the top
Knead the dough again, cover the vermicelli, pressing to make is starting to
and leave for 2 to 3 hours. About sure the vermicelli adheres. set. Turn
half an hour before the naan are Heat oil and deep-fry the balls over and
required, turn on the oven to the until golden brown. Drain and cook on the
maximum heat. Divide the dough serve with mint and coriander other side,
into 8 balls and let them rest for chutney (page 64). then serve
3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle a baking Note: If plantains are not hot with
sheet with nigella seeds; place in available, use lIb (500 g) Coconut
oven to heat up while dough is potatoes. Chutney.
resting. Shape each ball of Note: If
dough with the palms to make an desired, stuff with
oval shape. Bake until puffed up hot spiced potato or with
and golden brown. Serve hot. boneless Chicken Masala.

MAIN DISHES


Lemon Rice




Undiya
Spiced Mixed Vegetables

This Gujarati dish is served as
part of a main meal. It goes well
with any type of Indian bread or
rice. If yam or plantains are
unavailable, increase the
amounts of potato. eggplant.
and sweet potato slightly.
21/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup (75 g) red dal (masoor
1 tablespoon water
dat). soaked 4 hours in warm
Cilantro (coriander) leaves to
water
garnish
1/3 cup (75 g) coarsely chopped
Boil the rice in plenty of water tomatoes
until the grains are just tender. 1/3 cup (75 g) peeled and diced
Drain thoroughly and set aside. potatoes
overnight. Combine Heat oil in a pan and add 1/3 cup (75 g) diced eggplant
dal and beans in a the mustard seeds. When they (aubergine)
pan with ginger. salt. begin to pop. add asafoetida, 1/3 cup (75 g) peeled and diced
and water to cover. Bring curry leaves, ginger, green chili, sweet potatoes
to a boil. cover the pan and dried chilies. cashews. blackgram 1/3 cup (75 g) peeled and diced
simmer until just soft. dal, Bengal gram, and turmeric purple or white yam (optional)
Heat the ghee or butter. powder. Saute for a few seconds. 1/3 cup (75 g) peeled and diced
add cumin seeds and then add lemon juice. salt. and plantain (optional)
and saute until water. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. 2 tablespoons oil
cumin seeds crackle. then toss in the rice and heat 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
Add to the cooked dal together through. Serve garnished with 1/2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain)
with the tomatoes and half cilantro leaves.
garam masala. and simmer Pinch asafoetida powder
until the tomatoes soften. Keep
aside 1 tablespoon of the cream
for garnish and add the rest to
the pan. Heat through and
serve garnished with reserved
cream and the remaining
Don't forget the rice and
breads when you make the garam masala. Serve with
recipes here, or you'll miss out any of the Indian breads.
on the wonderful flavours of
the juices. These dishes are a
testament to Indian ingenuity
with blending spices: a little Chitrannam
more of this and a little less of Lemon Rice
that, and you'll end up with
something else. Enjoy! 11/2 cups (280 g) long-grain rice.
washed and drained
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
Dal Maharani Pinch asafoetida powder
Bean and Lentil Stew 1 sprig curry leaves
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped
1/2 cup (100 g) whole blackgram ginger
dal (urad dat), skin on 1/2 green chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons (30 g) dried pinto
2-3 dried chilies. broken in I-in
or kidney beans
(2 1 /2 -cm) pieces
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) ginger, sliced
1 tablespoon split raw cashews,
1 teaspoon salt
lightly toasted
1 tablespoon ghee or butter
1 teaspoon husked blackgram dal
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
(urad dat)
1-2 green chilies, slit lengthwise
2 medium-sized tomatoes, chopped 1 teaspoon split Bengal gram
2 teaspoons garam masala (page 64) (channa dat), lightly toasted
1/2 cup (125 ml) cream 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder Spiced Mixed Vegetables

MAIN DISHES LI ______________________________________________________________ ~I INDIAI 57



2 tablespoons freshly grated 1 teaspoon chili powder
or moistened dried coconut, 1 teaspoon sa It
to garnish 2 teaspoons chopped cilantro
(coriander) leaves
Masala 1/4 teaspoon garam masala
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds Soak chickpeas 1 hour, drain
1/2 teaspoon carom seeds and discard liquid. Put chick-
(ajwain) peas. 6 cups (1 1 12 liters) fresh
water and tea bag into a pan
2 tablespoons raw peanuts
and simmer until chickpeas are
3-4 green chilies, chopped
tender. Drain. reserving 1 cup
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
(250 ml) of the cooking liqUid.
(coriander) leaves
Finely chop the remaining
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
ginger. Heat oil and saute
1 teaspoon crushed ginger onions until golden. then add
1 tablespoon freshly grated garlic. chopped ginger and
coconut or moistened dried chilies. Saute for 5 minutes. Add
coconut (desiccated coconut) tomatoes. coriander. cumin.
1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar turmeric. and chili powders and
Gaggery) saute over low heat until the oil
1 teaspoon salt separates. Add the chickpeas.
the reserved cooking liquid, salt
2/3 cup (150 ml) water
and half the cilantro leaves.
Drain the soaked dal. Prepare all Simmer uncovered until the
the vegetables and set aside. liquid has been absorbed. Add a
Prepare the masala by toasting pinch of garam masala and serve
the coriander, cumin, carom sprinkled with the remaining
seeds. and peanuts together garam masala. cilantro leaves,
until the spices crackle, then and ginger shreds.
grind to a paste with the water.
Combine with all other masala
ingredients and blend or process
until smooth. Dum Aloo Skewered Homemade Cheese
Heat the oil in a pan and saute Spiced Potatoes in Yogurt
the cumin. carom. and asafoetida Saute the ginger and garlic 1 teaspoon tomato paste
until the spices start to crackle. 1 Ib (500 g) baby new potatoes in the oil left from frying the 1 teaspoon salt
Add the ground mas ala and 3 tablespoons oil potatoes, then add coriander, 1 teaspoon chili powder
saute for about 5 minutes. Put 2 onions, sliced and fried cumin, turmeric, and chili
in the tomatoes and continue until brown powders and stir for 1 minute. 1/2 teaspoon coriander powder
cooking until they soften. then 1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt Whisk the remaining yogurt 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
add the drained dal and the 4 black cardamom pods and add together with the nut Cut the paneer, peppers, onions,
prepared vegetables. Cover the 1 teaspoon fennel paste. Heat, then put in the tomatoes, and pineapple into
pan and cook gently until the potatoes, water, and salt and squares of about 11/4 in (3 cm)
vegetables are tender. Sprinkle 2 in (5 cm) cinnamon stick simmer, uncovered, until the and set aside.
with coconut and serve. 11/2 in (4 cm) ginger, finely chopped potatoes are tender. Stir in the
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped Combine all marinade
reserved ground spices and ingredients and mix with the
11/2 teaspoons coriander powder
onion mixture, and serve. paneer, vegetables, pineapple
1 teaspoon cumin powder
Pindi Channa 1 teaspoon turmeric powder and mushrooms. Leave for 1
Spiced Chickpeas 112 teaspoon chili powder hour, then thread onto skewers.
Cook in a tandoor, under a
2 tablespoons melon seeds or Paneer Shashlik broiler or over a hot barbecue
1 cup (200 g) chickpeas Skewered Homemade Cheese
cashews, soaked and ground to until done, brushing with oil
1 tea bag or 1 tablespoon black
a paste with water halfway through cooking.
tea leaves tied in cheesecloth 1 Ib (500 g) paneer, cut into
1 cup (250 ml) water
6 cups (11/2 liters) water 1/2-in-0-cm-) thick cubes
1 teaspoon salt HELPFUL HINT
21/2 in (6 cm) ginger, 3/4 in
2 green or red bell peppers
(2 cm) of it shredded finely (capsicums) Other fru its and vegetables can
Parboil the potatoes, then peel
2-3 tablespoons oil 2 onions be used-try making these with
and saute in the oil until golden.
2 onions, chopped 2 tomatoes zucchini, baby eggplant, and
Drain and set aside, leaving the
2 green chilies, sliced 1 cup 000 g) pineapple wedges cubed mango-not authentic,
oil in the pan. Puree the onions but del icious all the same!
2 teaspoons finely crushed garlic 8 button mushrooms
and half the yogurt in a blender.
3 medium-sized tomatoes, Oil to brush the skewers
Toast the cardamom, fennel.
chopped and cinnamon in a dry pan
2 teaspoons coriander powder until the spices start to smell Marinade
11/2 teaspoons cumin powder fragrant, then blend or grind to 3 tablespoons plain yogurt
112 teaspoon turmeric powder a powder. Set aside. 1 tablespoon oil

I
58 1 THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A ,-_ ____________ _____________ -----'1 M A I N DIS H E S


Nut paste
Bhindi Bharwan Murgh Korma 3 tablespoons white poppy seeds, Murgh Tandoori
Stuffed Okra . Mild Chicken Curry soaked and simmered 30 minutes Tandoori Chicken
3 tablespoons unsalted melon
1 Ib (500 g) okra (ladies' fingers), A korma is a Mughal creation. seeds, soaked Originally from the northwest of
washed and dried rich in fragrant spices and 3 tablespoons chironji nuts or India, food baked in a tandoor, or
nuts. Chicken korma is probably clay oven, heated with charcoal
3 tablespoons oil blanched almonds
the best-known korma dish, is very popular all over the
1 teaspoon cumin seeds 3 tablespoons raw cashew
although vegetable. mutton, country. Marinated chicken
1 medium-sized onion, chopped nuts, soaked
and lamb are frequently used. cooked in a tandoor achieves an
2 green chilies, deseeded and
Cut the chicken into bite-sized unrivaled succulence and flavor;
chopped
pieces and set aside. Saute the even using an electric or gas
3/4 in (2 cm) ginger, finely chopped 11/2 Ib (750 g) boneless chicken oven, the result is very good.
onions, garlic, and ginger until
Pinch of asafoetida powder 2 onions, finely chopped
transparent and very slightly
1 tomato, chopped 4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 spring chickens, each weighing
browned. Blend together with
11/2 in (4 cm) ginger, chopped around 11/4 Ib (650 g)
the water to obtain a paste and
Stuffing 1/4 cup (60 ml) water set aside. Blend the nut paste 1 tablespoon chili paste
3 teaspoons coriander powder 4 tablespoons (l00 g) ghee or ingredients with just enough 2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons turmeric powder butter water to make a paste and 1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fennel powder 4 green cardamom pods, bruised set aside. 1 teaspoon chaat masala (page 64)
2 teaspoons dried mango powder 1 black cardamom pods, bruised Heat the ghee and saute the Melted butter to baste
1 teaspoon chili powder 11/2 in (4 cm) cinnamon stick cardamom, cinnamon, cloves,
and bay leaves for a couple of
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 bay leaves Marinade
minutes, then add the cumin,
2 cloves 2 cups (500 ml) hung yogurt
Cut the stalk off each okra and 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder coriander, and blended onion (page 65)
make a lengthwise slit. 1/2 teaspoon coriander powder paste. Saute over very low heat, 11/2 tablespoons chili paste
Combine stuffing ingredients, stirring constantly, until the oil
mixing well, then stuff each 1 cup (250 ml) whipped yogurt separates, taking care that the 1 tablespoon crushed garlic
okra with the mixture. (page 65) mixture does not change color. 1 tablespoon crushed ginger
Saute cumin with a little oil 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Add the yogurt and continue 1 tablespoon oil
until it starts to crackle. Add 11/2 teaspoons ground white pepper cooking for 15 minutes, stirring 2 teaspoons lemon juice
onion. chilies. and ginger, and 2 tablespoons cream from time to time. Add the nut- 1 teaspoon garam masala
saute until the onion turns 1 teaspoon salt meg, pepper. and chicken and (page 64)
transparent; then put in the 1 teaspoon garam masala simmer over low heat, uncov- Few drops of red food coloring
asafoetida and cook for a few (page 64) ered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until (optional)
seconds. Add tomato and cook 1 teaspoon chopped cilantro the chicken is tender. Add the
until it turns pulpy. Add the (coriander) leaves to garnish nut paste and simmer gently for Make deep gashes on the breast,
okra and cook for 5 minutes. 3 to 5 minutes. thighs and drumsticks of each
or until tender and well coated Add 1 tablespoon of the chicken, both inside and out-
with the sauce. cream, salt and half of the side, to allow the marinade to
garam masala, stirring well. penetrate. Combine the chili
Remove from the heat and serve paste, lemon juice and salt and
garnished with the remaining rub all over the chickens.
cream, garam masala. and the Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
chopped cilantro. Prepare the marinade by
combining the hung yogurt
with all other ingredients. Rub
this well into the chickens,
saving some marinade to rub
inside the chest cavity. Marinate
chickens for 3 to 4 hours. Heat
an oven to maximum heat. Put
the chickens on a wire rack in
a baking dish and baste with
a little melted butter. Cook for
about 15 minutes, until the
chickens are brownish-
black and cooked. Sprinkle
with chaat masala and serve
with Mint & Cilantro
Chutney (page 64), onion
rings, and lemon wedges.
Note: The chickens can be
marinated as much as 24 hours
in advance. An alternative
method of coolting is to barbecue
the chickens over hot charcoal.

MAIN DISHES




Murgh Tikka Keema Kofta
Cllickm Tikkn Spicy Meatballs

11/2 cups (375 mil hung yogurt A specialty of Uttar
(page 65) Pradesh. these meatballs
11/2 teaspoons crushed garlic are bathed in a sauce
1 teaspoon crushed ginger enriched with pounded
2 teaspoons chili paste cashews and almonds.
P/2 tablespoons oil In India. the meat
2 teaspoons lemon juice would be bought
1 teaspoon salt in one piece. mixed
1 teaspoon garam masala with the seasonings
(page 64) and then taken to a Spicy Meatballs
Few drops of red food coloring shop to be put
(optional) through a mincer.
P/4 Ib (600 g) boneless chicken
leg. cubed 1 Ib (500 g) lean lamb.
cubed
Combine all the marinade 3 green chilies. sliced
ingredients and mix in with the 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
chicken. Leave in the refrigera- (coriander) leaves
tor to marinate for 2 to 3 hours. 1/2 in (1 cm) ginger, finely chopped Mix lamb with the chilies.
Thread the chicken on skewers 1/4 teaspoon powdered cloves cilantro. ginger. spices. and salt.
and brush with additional oil. 1/4 teaspoon powdered mace keeping the ghee aside. Blend
Cook O\'er charcoal or under a Pinch of garam masala (page 64) 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder seasoned meat in a food processor
\'Cry hot grill for 6 to 8 minutes. 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon chili powder until very finely ground. Shape
turning once. until cooked and 1 tablespoon ghee or butter 3 tomatoes, finely chopped or into balls about 3/4 in (2 cm) in
golden brown. Serve with Mint blended diameter and saute in ghee or
&: Cilantro Chutney (page 64). Sauce 1/4 cup (60 mil whipped yogurt butter until browned. Set aside.
onion rings. lemon wedges. and 2 tablespoons raw cashews (page 65) Make the sauce. Soak the
Indian bread such as naan. 2 tablespoons blanched almonds 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint cashews and almonds in
hot water to cover for about
1 heaped tablespoon ghee or butter leaves
10 minutes. then pound or
3 onions, finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt
process to make a paste. Heat
3/4 teaspoon crushed garlic Pinch of garam masala (page 64) the ghee and saute the onions
3/4 teaspoon crushed ginger until golden. Add the garlic.
ginger. turmeric. and chili and
Clrickl'll Tikkt!
saute until the oil separates.
Add the tomatoes and cook
until they become pulpy. Add
the yogurt and nut paste and
simmer over low heat until the
oil separates.
Add the meatballs. cover
the pan and simmer for 5 to 7
minutes. stirring gently from
time to time. Add half the
chopped mint and salt to taste.
then garnish with the remaining
mint and garam masala.

HELPFUL HINT
Yogurt is also frequently hung
to drain off some of the whey
and obtain thicker curds.
Although this is done using
cheesecloth or muslin fabric in
I ndia. cooks elsewhere may
fi nd an easier method is to put
the yogurt in a paper-lined
coffee filter and set the cone-
shaped device over a jar. The
whey will drip through. leaving
the curds in the filter. This is
hung yogurt. wh ich is preferred
for cooki ng. as it does not
change its texture.

60 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ____________________________________________________ ~I MAIN DISHES



allow the flavorings to pene- 1/2 teaspoon salt
trate. Clean and discard the 3/4 cup (180 mil water
spongy grey matter. Drain the Fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves
crabs thoroughly. to garnish
Heat oil in a wok and fry
mustard seeds until they start Masala
popping. Add the curry and 3 onions, chopped
bay leaves and green chilies 3/4 in (2 cm) ginger, chopped
and saute gently for 1 4-6 cloves garlic, chopped
minute, before adding the 1/4 in (1/2 cm) fresh turmeric or
asafoetida. Add onions 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
and cook until the onion 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
is transparent, then 4-6 dried chilies, broken and
sprinkle in turmeric and soaked to soften
chili powders. Saute for 2 green chilies, chopped
1 minute, then add the 6 green cardamom pods
crab pieces and tomatoes. 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
Cover the wok and cook, 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
without adding water, stir-
ring occasionally. When the Process or blend the masala
crab is cooked (about 10 ingredients to make a paste.
minutes), add the coconut Set aside.
milk and salt. Bring just to a Heat oil and fry the green
boil, stirring constantly, then cardamoms and peppercorns for
add the grated coconut and 2 minutes. Add the shallots and
serve with plain steamed rice. saute until they turn golden
brown. Add the meat and saute
until brown, then add the masala
and saute on low heat for 10 to
Aatirachi 15 minutes. Add the salt and
shrimp are tender. Add sugar, Kerala Lamb Curry water, cover the pan and cook
Chingdi Macher stir and serve garnished with gently until the meat is tender.
Creamy Shrimp Curry cilantro leaves.
2 tablespoons oil Garnish with cilantro and serve
6 green cardamom pods, bruised with rice or Flaky Fried Bread
3/4 in (2 cm) ginger (page 55).
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
6 cloves garlic 8-10 shallots, sliced
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds Nandu Kari 11/41b (600 g) boneless lamb,
3 tablespoons mustard oil Crab Curry
cut in I-in (2 1 /2-cm) cubes
1 bay leaf
This dish comes from Mangalore,
4 cloves Crab Curry
on the southwest coast, an area
2 in (5 cm) cinnamon stick
4 green cardamom pods, bruised renowned for its appreciation
1 large onion, chopped of both fish and coconuts. This
succulent curry uses coconut
4 green chilies, deseeded and
milk plus freshly grated coconut
chopped
for a wonderfully rich sauce.
Salt to taste
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
4 live crabs, each weighing
1 Ib (500 g) shrimp peeled and
about 8-10 oz (250-300 g)
deveined
2 tablespoons oil
1 cup (250 mil thick coconut milk
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon sugar
3 sprigs curry leaves
Chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
2 bay leaves
to garnish
3 green chilies, halved lengthwise
Pound the ginger, garlic, and Pinch of asafoetida powder
cumin. 3 onions, chopped
Heat oil and saute the bay 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
leaf, cloves, cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon chili powder
cardamom until fragrant. Add 2 tomatoes, chopped
onion and saute gently for 1 cup (250 mil coconut milk
5 minutes. Salt to taste
Add green chilies and ginger- 1/4 cup (20 g) freshly grated or
garlic-cumin paste. Saute for 2 moistened dried coconut
minutes, then add salt and (desiccated coconut)
water. Simmer uncovered for 5
minutes, then put in the shrimp Plunge crabs in a large pan of
and simmer for 3 minutes. Add boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes,
coconut milk and simmer gently, then drain and chop into large
stirring occasionally, until the pieces, cracking the shell to

MAIN DISHES I~ ______________________________________________________________ ~I INDIA I 61



1 Ib (500 g) pork, cut in 3/4-in
(2-cm) cubes
8 cloves garlic
3 teaspoons chili powder
4 green chilies
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) fresh ginger,
finely chopped
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 cup (250 mil coconut vinegar
2 onions, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons feni or brandy
Cut about 1 tablespooon of fat
from the pork and set aside.
Grind or blend the garlic,
chili powder, chilies, pepper, gin-
ger, and cumin seeds with the
vinegar. Marinate the pork in
the vinegar and spice mixture
for 1/2 hour.
Fry the 1 tablespoon of pork
fat until the lard comes out of it,
Goall Pork Curry
then saute the onions until
golden brown. Add the pork,
cream, heat through and serve marinade, and salt. Simmer
Macher Jhol Kesari Murgh garnished with cilantro leaves. until the pork is tender and the
Bengali Fish Curry Saffron Chicken gravy is thick. Pour off the
excess oil, then add the sugar
11/2 Ib (750 g) white fish cutlets 2 Ib (1 kg) chicken andfeni or brandy. Stir through
or fillets 1 teaspoon salt Vindaloo and serve with bread or rice.
2 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons or butter Goan Pork Curry
1 teaspoon turmeric 3 in (8 cm) cinnamon stick HElPFUL HINT
Mustard oil for pan-frying 4 green cardamom pods, bruised Vindaloo can be very pungent,
although this recipe should If you cannot obtain coconut
1 large potato, cut in wedges 3 whole cloves vi negar, use rice vi negar, or cider
1 small eggplant (aubergine), 1/2 Ib (250 g) onions, peeled, cause just a gentle sweat.
Choose pork that has some vinegar diluted with 1 part of
sliced boiled whole then pureed
fat on it. water to 4 parts of vi negar.
11/2 cups (375 mil water 1 teaspoon crushed garlic
4 green chilies, deseeded and slit 2 teaspoons crushed ginger
lengthwise 1 cup (250 mil whipped yogurt
(page 65)
Masala Pinch of saffron, soaked in
Saffron Chicken
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon warm milk
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds 3/4 cup (100 g) cashew nuts,
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
soaked and ground to a paste
1/4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1/2 cup (125 mil cream
1/4 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonjO
Cilantro (coriander) leaves to
Wipe the fish dry, sprinkle both garnish
sides with salt and turmeric
and set aside to marinate for Debone the chicken and
5 minutes. sprinkle with salt. Set aside.
Heat oil in a pan and saute Heat ghee and saute
the fish until golden brown on cinnamon, cardamom, and
both sides and cooked through. cloves for a minute, then add
Set fish aside. pureed onions, garlic, and gin-
Using the same oil, saute the ger and continue to saute until
masa[a spices until they start to they begin to take color. Add
crackle. Add the potato and egg- the yogurt and saffron and
plant and saute until well coat- cook for 15 minutes, stirring
ed with the spices. Put in the occasionally. Add the chicken,
water and simmer until the veg- simmer for 5 minutes, then
etables are tender. Add fish and add the cashew nut paste and
chilies and heat through. Serve blend well. Simmer until the
with plain rice. chicken is tender. Add the

62 1 THE F 00 D 0 F A S I A LI _____ _________ ______ ______ _ -----'1 DES S E R T S



Once again, nothing quenches
the heat of a fiery curry quicker
than a plate of sliced fresh
fruit. That is not to say that
desserts and sweetmeats are
\ not eaten-they are, with much
relish, especially among the
Bengalis. Here are some of the
more popular Indian treats.



Kheer
Rich Rice Pudding

1/2 cup (100 g) long-grain rice,
washed and drained
3 cups (750 ml) milk
2-3 green cardamom pods,
bruised
2 tablespoons blanched slivered
almonds
Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in
a little hot milk
1 tablespoon skinned pistachio
nuts, chopped
1 tablespoon raisins (optional)
2-3 tablespoons sugar
Put the rice, mille, and cardamom
into a pan, bring to a boil and Sweet Yogurt with Saffron
simmer gently until the rice is
soft and the grains are starting
to break up. Add the almonds, Shrikand 6 cups (11/2 liters) plain yogurt Channa Dal Payasam
saffron, pistachios, and raisins Sweet Yogurt with Saffron 1/2 cup (125 g) superfine (castor) Southern Indian Dessert
(if using) and simmer for 3 to 4 or confectioners' (icing) sugar
minutes. Add the sugar and stir In India, this Gujarati favorite is 1 tablespoon skinned pistacho Payasam is made of sweetened
until completely dissolved. always served with deep-fried nuts, chopped milk with a variety of nuts, dnI,
Remove from heat and serve bread (puri) As it is so rich and 2 teaspoons chironji nuts, hazel pearl sago or even wheat-flour
either warm or chilled. substantial. you may prefer it nuts or almonds, chopped vermicelli added. This version is
simply on its own. If desired, the 1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder enriched with coconut mille
saffron can be omitted and about Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in
liz cup (125 ml) concentrated a little hot milk 2 tablespoons split Bengal gram
mango pulp added for a Put the yogurt into a large sieve 2 cups (500 ml) milk
different flavor. or colander lined with wet 1/2 cup (125 ml) thick coconut milk
cheesecloth and allow to drain 3 tablespoons (50 g) palm sugar
for 6 to 8 hours, until it is (jaggery)
relatively flrm. 1 tablespoon ghee
Sprinkle the drained yogurt 1-2 green cardamom pods, bruised
with sugar, stirring to dissolve it, 1 tablespoon raw cashew nuts,
then push the mixture through coarsely chopped
a flne sieve to obtain a sillcen 1 tablespoon raisins or sultanas
smooth texture. Add half of the Wash the Bengal gram and
pistachos, the chironji nuts, simmer together with 1 cup
cardamom,andsaffron(or (250 ml) of water until half
mango pulp, if preferred). Mix
and chill before serving garnished cooked. Add the milk and
simmer until the gram is very
with the remaining pistachios. soft, then add the coconut mille
Additional saffron can be used and palm sugar. Cook, stirring
for garnishing if desired.
frequently, until the mixture
thickens. Heat the ghee and
HELPFUL HINT saute the cardamom pods,

If the Sweet Yogurt with Saffron cashew nuts, and raisins until
is made a day in advance and golden brown, then add to the
refrigerated, the flavor of the cooked mixture. Although
saffron and cardamom will be Payasam is normally served
Rich Rice much stronger. warm or at room temperature,
Pudding it can be chilled if preferred.

DESSERTS L______________________________________________________________ ~I INDIAI 63
I




Rasgulla Kulfi
Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup Indian Ice Cream

Soft homemade cream cheese or 8 cups (2 liters) whole (full-fat) milk
chenna is shaped into balls and 1/2 cup (125 g) sugar
simmered in syrup to make a 1-2 tablespoons skinned
simple but richly satisfying pistacho nuts, chopped
dessert. Silver leaf is sometimes 2 tablespoons almond, finely
used for decoration.
ground (optional)
8 oz (250 g) chenna (page 65)
Fa/ooda
1 teaspoon flour
11/2 cups (200 g) cornstarch
Syrup 4 cups (1 liter) water
2 Ib (1 kg) sugar
To make the ice cream, put the
3 cups (750 mil water
milk into a wide, heavy pan and
Make the syrup by bringing the cook over very low heat. Stir
sugar and water to a boil. Turn constantly until the milk has
off the heat and set aside. thickened and is reduced to
Combine the chenna and flour about 2 cups (500 ml), or until
and shape into balls. Reheat the the milk is the color of the kulfi
syrup and when it is boiling, in the photo. Stir the sides of the Cream Cheese
add the balls and simmer for pan constantly to prevent the Balls in Syrup
about 20 minutes. Add another milk from burning. Add the
2 tablespoons of water to the sugar and nuts, and allow to
syrup every 5 minutes to replace cool. Freeze in individual metal
water lost by evaporation; containers such as jelly molds. Fill a bowl full of cold water Gulab Jamun
this is essential to avoid having To make the falooda, dissolve right up to the brim and set the Fried Milk Balls in Syrup
the syrup become too thick. the cornstarch in 1 cup (250 ml) press over the water so that when
When the balls are cooked, of water. Heat the remaining the falooda is pushed through
remove from the syrup, drain water in a pan, add the blended the press, it touches the water 2 Ib (1 kg) khoa
and keep covered in water until cornstarch and cook to make a immediately. Push all of the gel 7 oz (200 g) chenna
required. Serve with a spoonful thick gel. through the press. Store the 2 tablespoons all-purpose (plain)
or two of the syrup poured While the mixture is still hot, falooda in water until required. To flour
over the top. put into a press capable of malting serve, unmold the ice cream and Pinch of baking soda (bicarbonate
fine threads the size of vermicelli. garnish with drained falooda. of soda) 2 tablespoons skinned
pistachio nuts, chopped
Indian Ice Cream (left) & Pried Milk Balls in Syrup (right) Oil for deep-frying
Syrup
6 cups (11/2 liters) water
5 1/2 Ib (2 1/2 kg) sugar

Make the syrup by boiling the
water and sugar together,
stirring from time to time, for
about 10 minutes until thick-
ened slightly. Set aside.
Crumble the khoa and mix
with chenna, flour, baking soda,
and pistachios to make a soft
dough. Make one very small ball
for testing the consistency. Heat
oil until moderately hot and fry
the ball; if it breaks apart, the
mixture is too moist and a little
more flour should be mixed into
the dough. When the mixture is
the correct consistency, shape it
into balls about 21/2 in (6 em)
in diameter and deep-fry, a few
at a time, until golden brown.
Drain the fried balls and put into
the warm syrup. Serve warm
or at room temperature.

64 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI _________________ ---'I STOCKS, SAUCES, & CONDIMENTS


the chilies and tomatoes and
Saunth Ki Chatni cook for about 10 minutes. until Garam Masala Kadai Masala
the tomatoes turn pulpy. Add the
Tamarind and Ginger Chutney
turmeric, chili powder, and
sugar and stir until the sugar 1/2 cup (75 g) cumin seeds 6 dried chilies, broken into several
5 tablespoons (100 g) dried 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
dissolves. Add salt to taste and pieces
tamarind pulp 4 2-in (5-cm) cinnamon sticks
serve hot. This chutney keeps 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
5 dates, stones removed (optional) for 3 to 4 days if refrigerated in 10-12 green cardamom pods, 1/4 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon chili powder a covered jar. bruised
3/4 teaspoon ginger powder 4-5 black cardamom pods, Heat chilies and coriander in a
1/4 teaspoon nigella seeds, toasted bruised pan, shaking from time to time,
and ground 10 cloves
3/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted Pudina Ki Chatni 1/2 nutmeg, broken until they smell fragrant. Grind
and ground Mint and Cilantro Chutney 3-4 blades of mace and add garam masala.
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
and ground 1 cup cilantro (coriander) leaves 4 whole star anise
1/4 cup (60 g) palm sugar (jaggery) 1/2 cup mint leaves 5 bay leaves
1 teaspoon white sugar or more to 2 green chilies, chopped Chaat Masala
taste 1/2 in (1 cm) ginger, chopped Put all the spices in a dry pan
Sa It to taste 3 cloves garlic, chopped (preferably nonstick) and heat 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons plain yogurt over a very low fire, shaking the
Soak the tamarind pulp with 1 teaspoon sugar pan from time to time. When 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 cups (500 ml) water for a 1/2 teaspoon chili powder the spices give off a fragrance, 5 cloves
minimum of 4 hours. Put pulp Salt to taste allow to cool slightly, then grind 3 cubeb or long pepper (optional)
and liquid together with dates 1 teaspoon chaat masala finely in a coffee mill or electric 1/2 tablespoon dried mint leaves
(if using) into a nonreactive pan. Lemon juice to taste blender. Store in an airtight 1/4 teaspoon carom seeds
cover and simmer for 30 minutes. bottle. (If stored in the freezer (ajwain)
Push through a sieve. discarding Put all ingredients in a blender portion of the refrigerator, 1/4 teaspoon asafoetida powder
the seeds and fibrous matter. and process until very fine. spices keep fresh almost 1 tablespoon rock salt
Return the sieved pulp to the Serve with snacks or tandoori indefinitely. )
pan and add chili. ginger. nigella. dishes. 21/2 tablespoons dried mango
fennel. and cumin. Cook over powder
low heat for 10 minutes. then 1 teaspoon ground ginger
add palm sugar and stir until Rasam Masala 1 teaspoon chili powder
dissolved. Add white sugar and Mangga Thuvial 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
salt to taste. Serve with any Green Mango Chutney 2 teaspoons coriander seeds (tartaric acid)
appetizers such as Pakora or 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons table (refined salt)
Samosa. or serve with simple 3 unripe green mangoes, weighing 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
vegetable dishes for extra tang. a total of about 1 Ib (500 g) 1 teaspoon black peppercorns Put first seven ingredients in a
Will keep refrigerated for about 1/2 teaspoon sesame seeds 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds dry pan and heat gently, shak-
1 week. 3-4 dried chilies, cut in I-in 6 dried chilies, broken into several ing the pan from time to time,
(2 1 /2-cm) lengths pieces until the spices begin to smell
2 medium-sized onions, chopped 1 sprig curry leaves fragrant. Remove from heat, add
2 tablespoons freshly grated or 1/2 teaspoon husked blackgram dal
Hussaini Tamatar Qoot dried coconut (urad dan the rock salt and grind while
Tomato Chutney 1 sprig curry leaves 1/2 teaspoon split Bengal gram still warm. Mix in all other
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (channa dan ingredients, cool and store tightly
1 tablespoon oil (coriander) leaves Pinch of asafoetida powder bottled. This salty, sour chaat
3/4 teaspoon black mustard seeds 1 teaspoon oil masala (the approximate trans-
1/2 teaspoon nigella seeds 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds Put all ingredients except lation of the name is "finger
1 sprig curry leaves 11/2 teaspoons split Bengal gram asafoetida in a pan over low licking"!) is sprinkled over
Pinch of asafoetida powder (channa dan heat and cook until the chilies cooked food for additional flavor.
4 green chilies, slit lengthwise and Sa It to taste become crisp and the spices
deseeded smell fragrant, taking care not
1 teaspoon crushed garlic Peel the mangoes, discard the to burn them. Cool slightly,
3/4 teaspoon crushed ginger seeds and chop the flesh coarsely. then grind all ingredients Khoa
4 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, Gently toast the sesame seeds together, then mix with the Condensed Milk
chopped coarsely and chilies until crisp. Combine asafoetida powder. This is used
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder the mango flesh, sesame seeds, to flavor the southern Indian I 4 cups (1 liter) fresh milk
1 teaspoon chili powder chilies, onion, coconut, curry soup, Rasam.
2 teaspoons sugar leaves, and cilantro leaves and Bring the milk to a boil in a
Salt to taste grind or blend coarsely. Heat wide, heavy-bottomed pan,
the oil and fry mustard seeds stirring constantly. Continue
Heat oil and fry mustard seeds. and dal until the mustard seeds
nigella seeds. curry leaves. and start to pop. Pour into the other stirring over high heat until the
asafoetida until the spices start ingredients, mix and add salt milk changes to a dough-like
to crackle. Add the garlic and to taste; serve. consistency, about 25 minutes.
ginger and saute gently for a Yields about 3 oz (90 g) khoa.
couple of minutes. then put in

STOCKS, SAUCES, & CONDIMENTS



refrigerated until
Dahi needed for various
desserts. To obtain
Plain Yogurt
paneer, wrap the
cheese in the
4 cups (1 liter) fresh milk same cheese-
2 tablespoons powdered full-cream cloth and shape
milk into an oblong
1 tablespoon plain yogurt or square. Wrap
tightly and place
Combine the fresh and powdered it under a heavy
milks, stirring to dissolve, then weight for about
put over moderate heat and 2 hours to
bring almost to a boil, stirring compress it.
from time to time. Remove from Remove the
the heat and allow to cool to weight and cut
about 100°F (40°C). You should into desired
be able to hold your finger in shapes.
the milk up to the count of
10 without it stinging. Put the ClockWise.
plain yogurt starter in a clean from the top left:
container and stir in the hot chili pic/de (no recipe).
milk. Cover with a cloth and Pyaz Ka Achar Lemon Mango Pickle. Mixed
leave in a warm place until set. Onion Mustard Pickle Vegetable Pickle. green chili pickle (no recipe) and Onion Mustard Pickle
In cooler temperatures, a wide-
mouth insulated jar or thermos 1 cup (250 ml) mustard oil
flask should ensure that the 4 tablespoons black mustard
temperature stays warm enough seeds Nimbu Aur Aam Sabzi Achar
for the yogurt to set. Refrigerate 2 teaspoons chili powder
the yogurt as soon as it has set 1 teaspoon turmeric powder Ka Achar Mixed Vegetable Pickle
and use some of this as a starter 3 tablespoons vinegar Lemon Mango Pickle
for your next batch. 21/2 tablespoons sugar 8 oz (250 g) each of carrots,
Before it is used in Indian 1/2 tablespoon salt 2 Ib (1 kg) lemons, quartered unripe green mangoes, green
cuisine, yogurt is often vigorously 3 tablespoons dried mango 10-15 green chilies, halved chilies and lotus root
stirred to ensure the whey is powder lengthwise 1 cup (250 ml) mustard oil
reincorporated with the curds; 15-18 green chilies 3-4 unripe green mangoes, peeled 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
this is referred to as whipped 30 cloves garlic, peeled and left a.nd diced 1 teaspoon nigella seeds
yogurt. Yogurt that is drained whole 1 cup (250 ml) lemon juice 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
for several hours to remove the 11/2 ta blespoons crushed gi nger 11/2 tablespoons cumin powder 21/2 teaspoons chili powder
whey is called hung yogurt. root 1 tablespoon turmeric powder 21/2 teaspoons turmeric powder
To make, put yogurt in a 11/2 tablespoons crushed garlic 11/2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons garam masala
cheesecloth or muslin over a 2 Ib (1 kg) onions, sliced 4 1 /2 tablespoons salt 1 onion, chopped and pureed
jar. The whey will drip through, 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid 21/2 tablespoons sugar 11/2 tablepoons crushed ginger
leaving the curds. crystals 11/2 cups (375 ml) mustard oil 11/2 tablepoons crushed garlic
4 lemons, quartered
Combine the lemons, chilies.
Heat oil to smoking point, then 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid crystals
set aside to cool. Grind or blend mangoes, and lemon juice in a 4 1/2 tablespoons salt
Chenna/Paneer the mustard seeds, chili, turmeric, bowl and sprinkle with the
Homemade Cream Cheese vinegar, sugar, salt, and mango spices, salt. and sugar. Put into Peel and cut the carrots and
powder to make a paste. Add this a large glass jar covered loosely mango into small wedges. Peel
4 cups (1 liter) fresh milk to the oil, together with all other with a cloth and leave in the and slice the lotus root. Leave
1 tablespoon of lemon juice or ingredients. Stir to mix well and sun for 6 days. Heat the oil to the chilies whole. Heat the
1 tablespoon vinegar mixed store in sterilized jars, with the smoking point. allow to cool mustard oil to smoking point.
with 1 tablespoon water pickle covered by oil. Keeps 3 to and then stir into the lemon then add the fennel. nigella. and
4 weeks. mixture. Leave in the sun for mustard seeds and saute until
Put the milk into a heavy- another 4 days. then cover the the spices crackle. Add the chili.
bottomed pan and bring slowly jar with a lid and store in a turmeric. garam masala. onion.
to a boil, stirring occasionally. cool, dry place away from the ginger. and garlic and stir, then
Remove from heat and add the light. Keeps for several months. add the vegetables and lemons.
lemon (or vinegar and water) Remove from the heat and add
while the milk is still hot, the ascorbic acid and salt. Stir
stirring vigorously until the to mix well. Put the pickle in
milk starts to curdle. Strain sterilized jars. making sure it is
through a muslin or cheese- covered with oil. If necessary.
cloth-lined sieve until all the add more oil which has first been
whey has drained off. The curds heated to smoking point. then
left are known as chenna and cooled. Keeps 3 to 4 months.
should be kneaded lightly to
make a smooth mixture, then



______________________________________________________________ ~I INDONESIA I 67






















As the languages, religions, and cultures of the
archipelago are many and varied, so too are its cuisines.





























Left: Chilies, whether
sold whole or ground
into a paste, are an
indispensable part of
Indonesian cuisine.
Right: A Javanese man on
his way to the market, his
bike loaded with terra
cotta cooking wares.


Indonesia is the world's largest archipelago, Tanah Air: Land and Water
consisting of literally thousands of islands. With Stretching some 5.000 miles. Indonesia's 17.000
terrain that ranges from snow-capped mountains or so islands (home to some 220 million people)
and lush rainforests to arid savannah, swamps range from roughly six degrees north of the equa-
and irrigated rice fields, it's hard to imagine a tor to 11 degrees south. Indonesia is within the so-
more appropriate national motto than "Bhinneka called "Ring of Fire." the meeting point of two of
Tunggallka"-Unity in Diversity. the earth's tectonic plates, which gives rise to fre-
Over the past two thousand years, Buddhist, quent seismic activity. Smoldering volcanoes peri-
Hindu, and Muslim kingdoms rose and fell in odically shower fertile ash on the land.
Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, attracting merchants To a large extent. the western islands of
from China, the Middle East, and India, as well Indonesia are lush and evergreen. While Borneo
as Siam and Malacca. Their quest was spice- has rainforests and swampy coastlines. Java and
not surprising, since some of the archipelago's Sumatra abound with fertile gardens. coconut
eastern isles were the original Spice Islands. groves. and paddy fields.
With its geographic and cultural diversity, it All of Indonesia enjoys tropical warmth and
is to be expected that the cuisines of Indonesia relatively high humidity. although the temperature
are so varied. Indigenous styles have been influ- drops Significantly on the mountains. Most parts of
enced degrees over the centuries by the intro- the archipelago experience a definite dry season
duction of ingredients and cooking styles from followed by life-giving monsoon rains. However.
China, India, the Middle East, and Europe. the eastern islands of the archipelago. especially

68 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~I ________________________________________________________________ _



Nusa Tenggara, the chain of islands in between Lombok east to
Timor, are often rocky and semi-arid. The dry seasons there are
longer and harsher than elsewhere in Indonesia, and the land
often degraded by tree felling and subsequent erosion.
Different parts of Indonesia receive their monsoon rain at
different times of the year. The Maluku islands conform to the
image of the lush tropics, while Irian Jaya, the western portion
of the island of New Guinea, has everything from swamps to
rainforest to the highest mountain east of the Himalayas, the
almost 16,OOO-foot Mount Jaya.
The preferred staple throughout Indonesia is rice, which is
grown both in irrigated paddies-where up to three crops a year
can be achieved by using special strains of rice and fertilizers-and
in non-irrigated fields, which depend on the monsoon rains. In
areas where insufficient rainfall or unsuitable terrain make rice-
growing impossible, crops such as sweet potato, tapioca (cassava or
manioc), corn, and sago are the staple.
The most popular accompaniment to rice is fish, which is often
simply fried with a seasoning of sour tamarind, turmeric, and salt, A sambal served in daun
or simmered in seasoned water or coconut milk. Although vegetables mangkokan, a decorative leaf
are grown throughout Indonesia, they do not always figure used as a herb in Sumatra.
prominently in the diet. Some wild leaves and plants, as well as the
young leaves of plants grown for their fruit or tubers, such as star- perhaps, the rijstaffeI. This colonial invention is a larger-than-life
fruit, papaya, sweet potatoes, and tapioca, are cooked as a vegetable. adaptation of the Indonesian style of serving rice with several savory
These are supplemented with water convilvulus (kangkung), long side dishes and condiments-only the Dutch modified it to a "rice
beans, eggplants, pumpkins, and cucumbers. Elevated areas, table" where as many as 18 to 20 dishes might be served.
especially in islands with rich volcanic soil, have proved perfect The Javanese of the sultanates of Yogyakarta and nearby
for temperate-climate vegetables introduced by the Dutch. Surakarta have a very refined culture. Theirs is a highly structured
society where harmony depends upon consideration for others, the
group being more important than the individual. Ritual events are
A Culinary Tour of the Islands marked by a communal feast (selamatan). Centerpiece of the sela-
Over the centuries Indonesia's cuisines, especially in the major matan may be a cone-shaped mound of yellow rice, with at least a
islands, have borrowed ingredients and cooking styles from many dozen dishes accompanying, including gudeg (young jackfruit cooked
sources. Arab and Indian traders brought their spices and sweet rose in coconut milk); fried chicken, which had first been simmered in
water. The Spanish were responsible for the introduction of chilies. spiced coconut milk; fermented soybean cakes (tempeh) fried with
The Chinese introduced the now-ubiquitous noodles (mie); soy sauce, shrimp and sweetened with palm sugar; red chili sambal and crisp
which the Indonesians modified to suit their taste by adding sugar shrimp wafers (krupuk).
(kecap manis); mung peas; bean curd and soybeans, which the Less subtle is the food of the west Sumatran region of Padang-
Indonesians fermented to make tempeh. ideal, however, if you like it hot and spicy! Most of the food in restau-
Despite their long period as colonial rulers, the Dutch did not rants are served as a smorgasbord: portions are taken from ten to as
really have ah enormous impact on the local cuisine, apart from, many as twenty different dishes and carried from their display
counter to the restaurant table. You help yourself to whatever you
Special Indonesian es (ice) drinks, both refreshing and delicious, are
sold at stalls and mobile carts throughout Indonesia. desire and pay only for what you consume. Vital to Padang food
are the herbs, rhizomes and other seasonings that include chilies,
ginger, garlic, shallots, galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, basil,
fragrant lime and salam leaves, and pungent dried shrimp paste.
Coconut flesh is squeezed to make the rich, creamy milk that
soothes (if only slightly) the impact of much Padang food. Steaming
white rice is served to counterbalance the emphatic flavors.
Sulawesi (Celebes) is renowned for its fish. Ikan bakar, fish roasted
over charcoal and served with a variety of dipping sauces, is a
regional favorite.
Feasts are commonplace in Bali, and, as the island did not turn to
Islam when the rest of the nation did, pork is a popular meat.
Game from the interior highlands of the so-called wilds of Borneo
include wild boar, used to make the famous roast pig babi guling.
Many leafy greens are gathered wild, such as the young shoots of
trees found in the family compound (starfruit is a favorite), or young
fern tips and other edible greens found along the lanes or edges of
paddy fields. Immature fruits like the jackfruit and papaya are also
used as vegetables. Mature coconut is used almost daily: grated to
add to vegetables, fried with seasonings to malce a condiment, or the
grated flesh squeezed with water to make coconut mille.

________________________________________________________________________ ~I INDONESIA I 69


























































The Food of the People Indonesia is blessed with an abundance of luscious fruit: the giant jack-
To properly savor the diversity of Indonesian cuisine, take a walk fruit, notorious durian, and spiky rambutan are only a few.
along local streets and do as the locals do-frequent the warung
(simple food stall). The social center of most villages and small mie bakso (noodle and meatball soup), or bowls of shaved ice with the
towns, the warung is usually made of either woven bamboo or wood, syrups, jellies and fruits of your choice added. Another hawker with a
open-fronted with dirt or cement floors, and offers everything you charcoal fire will grill satay on request.
might need for the home-mosquito coils, laundry powder or the What Westerners may consider desserts are eaten as snacks
ubiquitous clove-scented cigarettes. throughout the day, and may include treats such as fermented rice or
Warungs also sell a colorful array of packaged snacks, cakes, cassava (tape), slivers of young coconut, chunks or strips of colorful
biscuits, bottles of drink and whatever fresh fruit is available that jelly, sweet corn kernels or vivid green "noodles" of transparent
day: fresh bananas, avocados, papayas or guavas gathered from a mung pea flour.
nearby garden. Coffee is more popular than tea in many areas of Indonesia.
Eating out for many Indonesians is usually a necessity rather Finely ground coffee is put straight into the serving glass and mixed
than a luxury, and basic food stalls selling cooked food at very with boiling water. The trick of drinking the coffee (known as kopi
reasonable prices are found in any large village as well as in towns tobruk) without getting a mouthful of grounds is to stir it a little so
and cities. Stalls are often a good source of regional favorites. You that the grounds settle. Indonesians love sugar and coffee is served
can find so to Makassar (a rich beef soup) and grilled fish (ikan bakar) sweet unless one asks for it pahit (literally "bitter").
along Ujung Pandang's waterfront in Southern Sulawesi. Lombok's Stronger drinks can be found, except in conservative Islamic
favourite chicken, which is grilled over coals and served with a spicy areas (Muslims are forbidden to drink alcohol). Two popular local
sauce (ayam tali wang) is found at many foodstalls in the capital, brands of beer, Bintang and Anker, are made to Dutch specifications
Mataram, and almost any market in Bali will feature the famous and are similar to any European lager. In many non-Muslim areas, a
roast pig (babi guling). local brew is made from either rice or the sap of the coconut or lon-
Market foodstalls often sell nasi campur (literally "mixed rice") tar palm. Bali is noted for its brem, a sweetish type of rice beer. Palm
with small portions of several "dishes of the day," the various vegeta- wine (toddy) is made by tapping the sap that flows from the inflores-
bles, meat, poultry or fish dishes are often cooked in the regional style. cence of the coconut or lontar palm. It is enjoyed fresh the day it is
Hawkers on rumbling pushcarts, makeshift wooden contraptions gathered, or left to mature for a few days; leftovers are distilled to
resting on a couple of bicycle wheels, are also a popular sight, offering made a fierce arrack.

70 I THE FOOD OF ASIA IL-______________________________________________________________ _


The Indonesian Table and Kitchen used to transfer the food to individual plates or bowls from the
"Silakan makan" is the Indonesian invitation that precedes any meal serving dishes. Many modern homes and almost all restaurants
served to guests, and a phrase foreigners should wait for before provide a spoon and fork, while chopsticks can be expected in
beginning even as much as a snack served by their Indonesian hosts. Chinese restaurants.
But in countless homes throughout the archipelago, meals are usual- In more affluent homes, the choice of dishes to accompany the
, ly an informal affair and often eaten alone. rice is made with a view to achieving a blend of flavors and textures.
The most popular staple food is rice, and Indonesians eat large If one of the savory dishes has a rich, creamy coconut-milk sauce,
quantities of it with savory side dishes and condiments. Only small this will be offset by a dry dish with perhaps a sharper flavor. There
amounts of savory dishes-which may include fish, poultry, meat, may well be a pungent sambal goreng (food fried with a spicy chili sea-
eggs, vegetables, beancurd or tempeh-are eaten. Variety is preferred soning), but this will be balanced with other mild or even sweet dishes
over quantity; a little of four or five side dishes rather than large using kecap manis (sweet black soy sauce) or palm sugar.
helpings of only one or two. For a family celebration, food is prepared by the family involved.
Condiments are as important as savory dishes and will usually Larger feasts involve the whole banjar, or local community, the work
include a chili sambal and something to provide a crunchy contrast. supervised by a ritual cooking specialist, invariably a man. There is a
This could be deep-fried tempeh, peanuts, deep-fried tiny anchovies strict division of labor along gender lines, with men being responsi-
(ikan teri), krupuk (wafers made of tapioca flour seasoned with any- ble for butchering the pig or turtle, grating coconuts and grinding
thing from shrimp to melinjo nuts), a seasoned fried coconut concoc- spices. The women of the community perform the more fiddly tasks
tion such as serundeng or fried peanut wafers (rempeyek). of peeling and chopping the fresh seasonings, cooking the rice and
The rice and accompanying dishes are normally cooked early in preparing the vegetables.
the day, immediately after a trip to the market. The prepared food is The Indonesian kitchen is a combination of simplicity and practi-
left in the kitchen, and members of the family help themselves to cality. The gleaming modern designer kitchen is unknown to the
whatever they want whenever hungry, or take a container of food to majority of Indonesians; meals are usually cooked over a wood fire
the fields. Evening meals, taken at the end of the day when family or a kompor, a kerosene burner.
members return from the fields, school or their work in the towns A little known fact: despite the Moluccas's reputation as the
and cities, are often based on food left over from the main midday Spice Islands-islands literally responsible for starting the Age of
meal, with one or two extra dishes cooked if necessary. Exploration and for the discovery of the Americas by Christopher
As food is often served some time after it has been prepared, it is Columbus-cloves and nutmeg are rarely used in cooking in the
usually eaten at room temperature. Where meals are communal, the Moluccas. A little grated nutmeg may be added to a rich beef soup at
rice and all the accompanying dishes are placed in the middle of the a pinch, but in the main, nutmeg and cloves are regarded more as
table or on a mat on the floor for everyone to help themselves. It is con- medicinal plants. Nutmeg fruit, the fleshy covering of the hard nut
sidered impolite to pile one's plate with food at the first serving; there's which is used as a spice, is usually pickled and eaten as a snack.
plenty of opportunity to take more food as the meal progresses. The most widely used spice is coriander, a small round beige seed
Indonesians traditionally eat with the right hand (the left is with a faintly orange flavor, commonly partnered with peppercorns
considered unclean by Muslims), although serving spoons are and garlic to flavor food, especially in Java.

SUGGESTED MENU

Family meal Dinner party (1 Dinner party (2 A melting pot men









For an easy but elegant famil Many of the dishes in this chapter Other great dinner party sugges- For a mixed dinner menu serve

meal, serve the following selec- make very good dinner-party tions are: • Green Papaya Soup (page 76


tion of small dishes with Yellow nibbles: • Beef or Seafood Satay from Indonesia




Rice (page 78): • Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf (page 73) • Spicy River Shrimp (page 182

• Marinated Sour Shrimp (page 72), Dry Spiced Beef • Yogya Fried Chicken (page 83 from Vietnam and Chines





(page 72) (page 80) and Spicy Fried and Padang-style Eggs in Stuffed Vegetables an


• Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf Sardines (page 81); Coconut Milk (page 78) with Beancurd (page 42);


(page 72) • Buginese Chicken (page 82) Gado Gado (page 74) • Sago with Honeydew fro



• Fern Tips in Coconut Milk or Yogya Fried Chicken • Rice Flour Cake with Pal Malaysia/Singapore


(page 79); (page 83) and Hot Spicy Sugar (page 84) complete (page 134) makes a




• Coconut Pancakes (page 85) as Fried Tempeh (page 79 the meal. excellent finale


a sweet served with rice to follow
the appetizers;

Or, you may like to consider • Black Rice Pudding (page 85) Salad meal

• Spicy Sparerib Sou makes a dramatic ending.


(page 76) The salads in this chapte


• Vegetables with Spicy Coconut (pages 74-75) are a vegetable


(page 78) and Simmere lover's delight, and easy to


River Fish (page 81) wit assemble once you've prepare


steamed rice; all the ingredients. They make


• Sago Flour Rolls (page 84) for an ideal lunch, served with
good make-ahead dessert bread or rice.

THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF INDONESIAN COOKIN


For making the Indonesian rempah, garlic, ginger, galangal, chilies, and shrimp paste are a must. You'll also need freshly squeezed lim



juice and salam leaf. Unique to Indonesian cuisine is the use of tempeh. Coconuts—the milk and flesh—are an integral part o








Indonesian cooking, and are used in salads, curries, and desserts. Palm sugar is used in sweet and savoury dishes. Noodles and rice are the

main staples

72 I THE FOOD OF ASIA I~ ____________________________________________________ ~I APPETIZERS



11/4 Ib (600 g) boneless white
fish fillets (such as snapper),
skinned and chopped
15 shallots, peeled and sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
3 scallions (spring onions),
chopped
1 teaspoon white peppercorns,
crushed
1/2 cup (125 ml) thick coconut
milk
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
Pieces of banana leaf or aluminum
foil, 5 in (12 cm) square, for
wrapping

Put fish in a blender and process
for a few seconds. Add all other
ingredients, except for banana
leaf. and process until well
blended.
Put 3 heaped tablespoons of
fish in the center of each square
of banana leaf, roll firmly and
secure with toothpicks. Steam
the parcels for 15 minutes, then
place directly onto charcoal or
under a broiler (grill) for
Marinated Sour Shrimp (upper left) and Tuna Sambal (lower right) 5 minutes, turning from time
to time. until the leaves are
In Indonesia these dishes Grind or blend shallots. charred.
would be used as side dishes chilies. and carambola or grape- Otak-otak Serve still wrapped in banana
to accompany rice. If you like fruit to a fine paste. Taste and Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf leaf.
you can increase the quantities add a little lime or lemon juice if
slightly and serve as part of a not sour enough. Combine with This Kalimantan recipe calls
shared main meal with rice. shrimp and serve.
for steamed bundles of minced.
seasoned fish to be cooked
directly on hot charcoal,
giving an inimitable flavor.
Asam Udang Sambal Tappa
Marinated Sour Shrimp Tuna Sambal
Belimbing wuluh. small sour This recipe comes from Ambon,
carambola fruits. grow abun- in Maluku, where tuna is abun-
dantly in many kitchen gardens dant. Although the flavor is not
throughout Indonesia. as well as as good. drained canned tuna
in other areas of Southeast Asia. can be used as a substitute. if
They add a delicious tang to this fresh tuna is not available.
North Sumatran salad. although
sour grapefruit or sour oranges 5 sour green mangoes, peeled and
can be used as a substitute. coarsely shredded
2 teaspoons salt
11/4 Ib (600 g) fresh tuna,
2 Ib (1 kg) large shrimp (with shells)
grilled and flaked
6 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
3 red chilies, deseeded and finely 3 shallots, peeled and
sliced sliced
4 sour carambola (belimbing 1 teaspoon white
peppercorns, ground
wuluh), sliced, or 1 sour
1/4 cup (60 mil thick
grapefruit, peeled and chopped
coconut milk
Put shrimp in a pan with 8 cups
(2 liters) water and bring to a boil. Mix mangoes with salt and set
Simmer for 4 minutes. drain aside for 10 minutes. Squeeze to
Grilled Fish
and plunge shrimp in iced water remove sour liquid. Mix with in Banana Leaf
for 30 seconds. Drain, then peel the tuna. shallots. pepper, and
coconut milk and serve.
shrimp.

A P P E T I Z E R S J I N D O N E S I A I 7


1 in ( 2 ½ cm) galangal Uaos),
Sate Sap peeled and slice



Beef Sat ay 1 in ( 2 ½ cm) kencur, peeled an

sliced

2 in (5 cm) fresh turmeric, peele
1 ¼ lb (600 g) top round beef, i and slice

½-in (1-cm) cube 2 teaspoons coriander seed
3-5 bird's-eye chilie l /2 teaspoon black peppercorn
2 tablespoons brown sugar
3 candlenut
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste {trasi)
Spice Past Pinch of freshly grated nutme
10 shallots, peeled and slice 2 clove
6 cloves garlic, peeled and slice
4 in (10 cm) galangal Uaos), 2 tablespoons oi

peeled and slice Grind or blend all spice paste
2 in (5 cm) ginger peeled and sliced ingredients, except oil. Heat oil
6 red chilies, slice and saute spice paste for abou


7 bird's-eye chilies, slice 5 minutes. Cool, then combin

10 candlenut with duck and all other ingredi-
1 tablespoon black peppercorn ents except lemongrass skewers

1 tablespoon coriander seed Mold about 2 tablespoonfuls o


4 tablespoons chopped palm suga lemongrass or skewers and gril



2 salam leave over hot charcoal until cooked
4 tablespoons oi and golden brown.
Prepare spice paste by blending


all ingredients, except salam HELPFUL HIN
leaves and oil. Saute blended Soak skewers for at least 3






mixture in oil with salam leaves minutes before use
for 5 minutes until golden brown. Raw Vegetables (left) and Cooked Vegetables in Peanut Sauce (right), recipes on



Cool, then combine with meat page 74

chilies, and sugar. Marinate i

the refrigerator for 24 hour
(can be kept up to 4 days). Sate Lilit Bebe 1 teaspoon sal Rempeyek Kacan


Thread meat onto sata Minced Buck 3-5 bird's-eye chilies, very finely Crisp Peanut




skewers and grill over high chopped
heat until cooked. Serve with 2 tablespoons chopped pal I ¼ cups (200 g) raw peanut

peanut sauce 1 ¼ lb (600 g) duck or chicke sugar 14 tablespoons (150 g) rice flour
meat, mince Lemongrass or satay skewer
3 /4 cup (100 g) all-purpose (plain

2 cups (200 g) freshly grate
coconut Spice Past flour


5 kaffir lime leaves, very finely 12 shallots, peeled and slice 1 cup (250 ml) coconut mil
shredded 6 cloves garlic, peeled an Oil for deep-fryin
1 teaspoon black peppercorns sliced
crushed 3 red chilies, slice Spice Past
Beef Satay 1 teaspoon coriander seed
2 candlenut
2 cloves garlic
½ in (1 cm) fresh turmeric,

peeled and sliced (o
1 /2 teaspoon powder
5 kaffir lime leaves, shredde
(optional)
1 teaspoon sal
Dry fry the peanuts in a wok over
low heat for 5 minutes. Rub to

remove the skin and set aside.
Grind or blend the spice paste
ingredients, then add to flours.


Mix well, stirring in the coconu
milk to blend well. Add the
peanuts. Heat plenty of oil in a
wok and drop in a tablespoonfu


of batter at a time, cooking until
golden brown. Drain and coo


thoroughly before storing

74 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~I __________________________________________________________ ~I SALADS











































The Indonesian salad differs little water if necessary. Pour and salt. Mix well to make a 6 cups (11/2 liters) water
completely from Western-style sauce over vegetables. Mix well sauce. Adjust seasonings to 3 tablespoons fried shallots
salads. Be prepared for the and garnish with fried shallots taste. Serve vegetables with (page 87)
sweet, sour, hot, salty, and spicy and krupuk. sauce poured over and sprinkle 1 tablespoon lime juice
assailing your senses all at once! with the ground fried peanuts.
To mal(e the peanut sauce, blend
the first four ingredients until
coarse. Put in a pan with all
Karedok Lotek other sauce ingredients, except
Raw Vegetables Cooked Vegetables in Gado Gado fried shallots and lime juice.
Peanut Sauce Vegetable Salad with Simmer over very low heat for
Peanut Sauce
1/4 medium-sized round green 1 hour, stirring to prevent sticlilllg.
8 oz (250 g) water convolvulus
cabbage, shredded Stir in shallots and lime juice just
(kangkung) or spinach, steamed 1 cup (100 g) long beans, cut
1 small cucumber, peeled, halved before use. Arrange all vegetables
(about 5 cups) and blanched
lengthwise and sliced on a dish and pour over the sauce.
8 oz (250 g) pumpkin or chayote, 1 cup (100 g) beansprouts, Garnish with beancurd and eggs,
2 cups (200 g) beansprouts,
cut in chunks and steamed blanched
cleaned sprinkle with shallots and serve.
(about 2 cups) 2 cups (100 g) spinach,
4 tiny round eggplants (aubergines),
8 oz (250 g) long beans, cut in blanched
or 1 small long eggplant, finely
11 /2-in (4-cm) lengths and 1/4 small cabbage, chopped and
sliced
steamed (about 2 cups) blanched
1 cup (100 g) diced young long
8 oz (250 g) young jackfruit, 1 medium-sized carrot, thinly sliced
beans
cubed and simmered in water and blanched
4 sprigs basil
until tender (about 2 cups) 4 squares hard beancurd,
Fried shallots and prawn wafers
1 cup (100 g) beansprouts, deep-fried and sliced
(krupuk) to garnish
blanched 4 hard-boiled eggs,
1 large potato, boiled, peeled cut in wedges
Spice Paste
and diced 2 tablespoons fried
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
5 bird's-eye chilies, sliced shallots
8 red chilies, seeded and sliced
3/4 in (2 cm) kencur, sliced
2 in (5 cm) kencur, peeled and
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste Peanut Sauce
sliced
(trasl), toasted 3 cups (500 g) deep-
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste
1 teaspoon chopped palm sugar fried peanuts
(fras/), toasted
1/4 teaspoon salt 4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon tamarind juice
1/2 cup (80 g) fried peanuts, 10 bird's-eye chilies, sliced
4 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
ground 3 in (8 cm) kencur, peeled
2 teaspoons salt
and chopped
Arrange vegetables in a bowl. Prepare the vegetables and set 3 kaffir lime leaves
Grind or blend the spice paste aside. Grind or blend the chilies, 1/2 cup (125 ml) sweet soy sauce
ingredients together, adding a kencur, shrimp paste, palm sugar, 2 teaspoons salt

SALADS J l N D O N E S I A l 7


Shredded Chicken with
Timun Mesante L a war Chilies and Lime
Cucumber with Coconut Green Bean Salad with






The bland flavor of cucumber No big religious or private
can be enhanced when prepare celebration would be held with-


with coconut milk and spic out serving this ritual dish. Only

seasonings. the eldest and most experience
men are allowed to mix the
2 tablespoons oi many ingredients

3 shallots, peeled and slice
2 cloves garlic, peeled and slice 3 cups blanched long beans cut

2 large red chilies, seeded an in ¼ - i n ( ½ -cm) slice


sliced ½ cup (50 g) grated

x /2 teaspoon dried shrimp past roasted


2 cups (500 ml) coconut mil 6 cloves garlic, peeled, slice



2 medium-sized cucumbers and frie

peeled, seeded and slice 6-8 shallots, peeled, slice

1 teaspoon sal and fried
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns 2 large red chilies, seeded and cu

crushed in fine strip

Fried shallots to garnish (page 87 4-6 bird's-eye chilies, finely slice
3 teaspoons fried bird's-eye chilie


Heat oil in heavy saucepan. Ad

shallots, garlic, and chilies and (page 87


saute for 2 minutes over low 2 tablespoons spice paste for

heat. Mix in shrimp paste an chicken (page 86


saute for another minute. Pour Fried shallots to garnish (page 87
in coconut milk and bring to Ayam Pelala Rujak



boil. Reduce heat and simme Dressing




for 5 minutes. ½ lb (250 g) boneless chicken, Shredded Chicken with Vegetable and Fruit Salad




Add cucumbers and bring to minced and Palm Sugar
a boil. Reduce heat and simme 2 tablespoons spice paste for



until cucumbers are cooked an chicken (page 86 Use any type of leftover chicke 1 small pineapple, peeled an


sauce thickens. Season to taste 12 in (30 cm) square of banana lea (roast, steamed or fried) for this sliced evenl


with salt and pepper 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lim delightfully tangy chicken salad. 1 sour mango, peeled and slice



Garnish with fried shallots juice 1 pomelo or grapefruit, peeled an
1 teaspoon sal 1 whole chicken, weighing about cut in segment


HELPFUL HIN l /2 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 ½ l b ( l ¼ k g 1 small cucumber, peeled, seede



crushed 1 cup (250 ml) spice paste for and slice



i If possible, use Japanes chicken (page 86 3 water apples (jambu), quartere



cucumbers which have a bette Combine beans, coconut, garlic ½ cup (125 ml) Tomato Samba










1 flavor and texture (optional)

shallots, all the chilies, and (page 86 1 medium-sized starfruit, slice


chicken spice paste in a large 3 tablespoons freshly squeeze l /2 small papaya, peeled, cut i



bowl and mix well. lime juic half, seeded and sliced in even

To prepare the dressing segments

combine chicken mince with Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, 1 green apple, peeled and slice

2 tablespoons of chicken spic gas mark 4). Rub the chicke


Green Bean Salad with Chicken outside and in with the spic

paste and mix well. Place Sauce
minced chicken lengthwise i paste. Place on wire rack in oven 6 tablespoons tamarind pul

center of banana leaf and roll and roast until done. When cool, 1 cup (250 ml) palm sugar syru



up very tightly. Place banana remove and discard the skin (page 87


leaf roll on aluminum foil and Remove meat from bones an 1 teaspoon dried shrimp past


roll up again very tightly. Turn shred by hand into fine strips. (trasi), roaste


sides simultaneously in opposit Combine the chicken strips with 6 bird's-eye chilies, left whol

directions to tighten the roll. the remaining ingredients. Mix ½ teaspoon sal
Steam the roll for 20 minutes. well and season to taste. ½ cup (125 ml) wate


Remove aluminum foil and Serve at room temperatur
banana leaf, break up meat with steamed rice. To make the sauce, combine al

with a fork to its original ingredients in a heavy pan an




minced form HELPFUL HIN bring slowly to the boil. Stir well
Combine minced chicke Should there be any leftove and simmer for 10 minutes.







with bean mixture, season t chicken, it can be mixed wit When cool, squeeze to extract





taste with salt, pepper, and lim mashed potato and made int all the juice from the tamarin







juice. Garnish with crispy frie patties; just fry them in a littl and strain through a sieve.



shallots. hot oil until golden. The use o Combine all ingredients i







potato is not strictly Balinese salad bowl and mix well. Serve
but the result is very good.


at room temperature

I
76 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L__________________________________________________________ ~I SOUPS



Sap Kepala Ikan Gedang Mekuah
Fish-head Soup Green Papaya Soup

This dish can be made with either If you prefer to eat your papayas
one large fish head or a couple ripe and golden, you could try
of smaller heads. There is not making this soup with any
much flesh on the head, which summer squash or Chinese
is used to flavor the soup rather winter melon instead.
than to provide a substantial
meal in itself. 1 unripe papaya, weighing roughly
11/2 Ib (750 g)
4 cups (1 liter) water 4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
1 teaspoon sa It (page 87)
3 stalks lemongrass, bruised 1 cup (250 mil spice paste for
vegetables (page 86)
5 kaffir lime leaves
1 Ib (500 g) snapper heads, 2 salam leaves
cleaned and well rinsed 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
1 tablespoon fried shallots (page 87) 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon salt
Spice Paste Fried shallots to garnish (page 87)
7 red chilies, de seeded and sliced
6 shallots, peeled and chopped Peel the papaya, cut in half
Spicy Spare Rib Soup
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped lengthwise and remove the seeds.
2 in (5 cm) ginger, peeled and Slice the papaya lengthwise into
chopped 4 or 6 slices, then slice crosswise
Oaging Belacang Kanra Makasar 11/2 in (4 cm) fresh turmeric, in slices about 1/4 in (1/2 cm)
Beef Soup with Chilies Spicy Spare rib Soup peeled and sliced (or 11/2 thic!c Heat stock, add spice
and Tamarind
teaspoons powder) paste and bring to a boil.
2 Ib (1 kg) beef spareribs, cut in Simmer 2 minutes, then add
An excellent way of dealing with 2-in (5-cm) lengths 1 tablespoon oil
tough cuts of beef, this soup 4 quarts (4 liters) water the salam leaves, lemongrass,
from Timor in eastern Indonesia 4 shallots, peeled and sliced Prepare the spice paste by grind- and papaya and simmer gently
has a sweet-sour edge to it. 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced ing or blending all ingredients until the papaya is tender. If
3 candlenuts except oil, then saute in oil for the stock reduces too much,
2 to 3 minutes. Add water, add more. Season to taste with
2 Ib (1 kg) top round beef, in 1 piece 3 cups (300 g) freshly grated or
8 cups (2 liters) water dessicated coconut, fried until salt, lemongrass, and lime pepper and salt and garnish
3 tablespoons oil golden, then pounded leaves and bring to a boil. Put in with fried shallots.
5 shallots, peeled and sliced 5 stalks lemongrass, bruised and tied the fish heads, return to a boil
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) galangal (laos), and then simmer, uncovered, HELPFUL HINT
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste peeled and sliced until the fish heads are cooked. To save time, you can use
3 kaffir lime leaves
(trasJ), toasted Serve garnished with fried canned chicken broth in place
1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns,
3/4 tablespoon chopped palm shallots. of homemade chicken stock,
crushed
sugar although the taste wi II not be
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sweet soy sauce as good.
1 tablespoon fried shallots (page 87)
1 tablespoon tamarind juice
2 tablespoons sliced Chinese
Salt to taste
celery leaves
2 red chilies, deseeded and sliced
in fine strips
Put the beef ribs and water
2 scallions (spring onions), cut in
I-in (2 1 /2-cm) lengths in a large pan and simmer,
uncovered, until beef
Simmer the meat in the water is tender.
until half cooked, then cut in Grind or blend
3/4-in (2-cm) cubes, reserving the shallots, garlic,
the stock. Saute beef in 2 table- candlenuts, and add
spoons oil, then set aside. to the pounded
Grind or blend the shallots, coconut. Put into
garlic, shrimp paste, and palm the stock together
sugar, then saute in 1 tablespoon with all remaining
oil until fragrant. Add fried meat ingredients, except
and sweet soy sauce and saute fried shallots and celery
for a couple of minutes. Add leaves. Simmer until the
reserved beef stock, tamarind meat is very tender, but not
juice, and salt then simmer until falling from the bones. Serve
the beef is tender. Garnish with garnished with fried shallots
chilies and scallions. and celery.

S O U P S L J l N D O N E S I A l 7


Simmer, uncovered, until tender

Gulai Tempe and the sauce has thickened


Tempeh Season to taste with salt an
garnish with fried shallots



Any leafy green vegetable, suc

as spinach or water convolvulu

(kangkung), can be substitute

for tapioca (cassava) leaves. Cram Ca
Clear Chicken Soup

Shallots
2 cups (500 ml) coconut mil


2 whole clove i


4 fermented soy bean cake 4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock



{tempeh), cut in cube (page 87



1 bunch (about 8 oz/250 g ½ cup (125 ml) spice past

tapioca leaves or substitut for chicken (page 86
Salt to taste 1 teaspoon crushed black peppe

Fried shallots to garnish (page 87 1 salam lea

1 stalk lemongrass, bruise
Spice Past 13 oz (400 g) boneless chicken,
4 cloves garlic, peeled and slice skin removed and mince

1 teaspoon white peppercorns Salt and pepper to taste


crushed 2 tablespoons fried shallot Clear Chicken Soup with Shallots



1 in ( 2 ½ cm) ginger, peeled an (page 87
sliced
I ½ in (4 cm) fresh turmeric, peele Bring chicken stock to the boil and discard. Season soup to to add any sweetness to the soup;



and sliced (or I ½ teaspoon in stockpot or large saucepan taste with salt and pepper if this is not available, the cooking
Garnish with fried shallots



powder) Wrap spice paste and blac time will be slightly longer
1 tablespoon chopped palm suga pepper into a piece of cotton cloth

and tie with string. Add the spic 1 ¼ lb (600 g) beef tripe, cleane

paste bundle, the salam leaf, and
Prepare the spice paste by grind- lemon grass to the soup an Soto Baba and washed well


ing or blending all ingredients. simmer for 10 minutes. Clear Tripe Soup 12 cups (3 liters) wate


Bring coconut milk to a boil, Add minced chicken an 4 cups (1 liter) beef stoc




then add the spice paste, cloves, simmer for 15 minutes. Remove The sugar cane is used to help 2 in (5 cm) sugar cane stem, split

lengthwise (optional
tempeh and tapioca leaves. spice paste bundle from the sou soften the tripe rather tha 1 in (2 /2 cm) ginger, peele


x

and sliced lengthwis
Tempeh Stew
4 cloves garlic, peeled and slice
1 tablespoon distilled white vinega

6 ½ oz (200 g) giant whit
radish {daikon), peeled and


diced in ½-in (1-cm) cube
5 sprigs celery leaf, choppe
1 tablespoon fried shallot

(page 87
Rinse tripe well under runnin

water until very clean. Bring
water to a boil in a large pan,
add tripe and simmer until sof
(approximately 1 hour).

Strain water and cool tripe in
iced water. Cut in pieces approx-


imately 1 x ½ in ( 2 ½ x 1 cm).




Bring beef stock, sugar cane


ginger, garlic, and vinegar to a
boil. Add tripe and radish. Simmer

until vegetables are soft. Garnis

with celery leaf and fried shallots.
HELPFUL HIN

Any type of summer squash o
Chinese winter melon can b

used instead of giant whit


radish (Japanese daikon). Thi
soup reheets well.

---'
78 1 THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A LI ____ _ _____ _____ _ ______ _ _ _ __ 1 M A I N DIS H E S


To take the grind out of mak-
ing the spice pastes, make
enough for several meals and
store, covered with a film of
oil, in a jar in the refrigerator.
Make sure you use a clean
spoon each time you take
some out, and it should keep
for at least 2 weeks.



Nasi Kuning
Yellow Rice


Rice colored with turmeric and
shaped into a cone is often present
on festive occasions. The shape
echoes that of the mythical
Hindu mountain, Meru, while
yellow is the color of royalty
and one of the four sacred
colors for Balinese Hindus.

11/2 cups (300 g) uncooked long-
grain rice, washed thoroughly
Yellow Rice
2 in (5 cm) fresh turmeric, peeled
and scraped
saucepan. Cover and bring to 2 cups (500 ml) coconut milk Sauce
11/2 cups (375 mil coconut milk
a boil over moderate heat. Stir, 1/2 turmeric leaf, shredded (optional) 7 bird's-eye chilies, sliced
1/2 cup (125 ml) chicken stock
lower heat to the minimum and 8 hard-boiled eggs, peeled 8 red chilies, deseeded and sliced
1 salam leaf
cook until the rice is done. 1 tablespoon tamarind juice
1 pandan leaf, tied in a knot 1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste
Remove all leaves and galangal Salt to taste
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised (trasi), toasted
before serving, pressed into a Fried shallots to garnish (page 87)
3/4 in (2 cm) galangal (laos), cone shape, if desired. 4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
peeled and sliced Spice Paste 4 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 teaspoons salt 5 shallots, peeled and sliced 1 in (2 1/2 cm) fresh turmeric,
HELPFUL HINT
3 cloves garlic peeled and sliced (or 1 teaspoon
Drain the rice in a sieve or If t he rice seems to be too dry 4 bird's-eye chilies, chopped powder)
colander. Put the fresh turmeric before the grains are soft and 1 in (2 1 /2 cm) ginger, peeled and 1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar
in a blender with 1/4 cup (60 ml) swollen, sprinkle with a little chopped 3 cups (300 g) freshly grated or
more hot ch icken stock and
water and process until fine. continue cooking. 1/2 in (1 cm) fresh turmeric, desiccated coconut
Strain through a sieve, pushing peeled and sliced 4 cups (1 liter) water
to extract all the juice. Measure 1 in (2 1 /2 cm) galangal (laos), 3 salam leaves
2 tablespoons and discard the peeled and chopped Salt to taste
rest. If fresh turmeric is not
available, mix 2 teaspoons Gulai Telur Grind or blend spice paste Prepare sauce first by grinding
turmeric powder with 2 table- Padang-style Eggs in ingredients until coarse. Bring or blending first 7 ingredients.
spoons water. Coconut Milk coconut milk gradually to a Simmer with remaining ingredi-
Put rice, turmeric water and boil and add the spice paste, ents until the sauce thickens.
all other ingredients in a heavy A full-bodied dish often served turmeric leaf and eggs. Simmer Cool to room temperature.
at a typical West Sumatran or until the sauce thickens, then Lightly boil or steam the
Padang-style Eggs in Coconut Milk Padang-style meal. add tamarind juice and salt and long beans and fern tips or
simmer for another minute. Serve spinach. Drain thoroughly
garnished with fried shallots. and arrange on a plate. Add
blanched beansprouts. Serve
vegetables with sauce poured
over and garnished with fried
Jangan Olah shallots.
Vegetables with Spicy Coconut

2 cups (100 g) chopped long beans
2 cups (100 g) young fern tips
(fiddleheads) or chopped spinach
1 cup (100 g) beansprouts,
blanched
Fried shallots to garnish (page 87)

MAIN DISHES ~I ____________________________________________________________ ~I INDONESIA I 79


Pork in Sweet Soy Sauce
Sambal Goreng Tempeh Gulai Daun Pakis
Hot Spicy Fried Tempeh Fern Tips in Coconut Milk
Sweet with palm sugar and tangy The young tips of several varieties
with chilies, this is a Javanese of wild fern are enjoyed in many
favorite, which is served with parts of Southeast Asia and
rice and other dishes. have an excellent flavor.

2 fermented soy bean cakes 3 cups (750 ml) coconut
(tempeh), cut in long narrow milk
1 Ib (500 g) fern tips,
strips and deep-fried
cleaned
1 tablespoon oil
2 turmeric leaves (optional)
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon tamarind juice
3 cloves garlic, sliced
Salt to taste
2 red chilies, sliced
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) galangal (laos),
peeled and sliced Spice Paste
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste 3 shallots, peeled and sliced
(tras/) 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
10 red chilies, seeded and sliced
5 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) galangal (laos),
3 tablespoons water
peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon tamarind juice
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) fresh turmeric, Be Celeng Base Manis HELPFUL HINT
Salt to taste
peeled and sliced Pork in Sweet Soy Sauce For a thicker sauce, pound the
8 bird's-eye chilies, chopped
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) ginger, peeled and shallots, garlic, and ginger
sliced This delicious sweet pork dish together and fry them before
Deep-fry tempeh and set aside. adding the pork.
Heat the oil and saute the shallots, To make the spice paste, grind with a hint of ginger and plenty
of chilies to spice it up often
garlic, chilies, galangal, and or blend all ingredients together. appears on festive occasions.
shrimp paste for 2 to 3 minutes. Put spice paste in a saucepan Babi Masak Tomat
Add the palm sugar, water, and with the coconut milk and bring 2 tablespoons oil Pork Cooked with Tomatoes
tamarind juice and stir until the to a boil, stirring. Simmer for 5 shallots, peeled and sliced
sugar has dissolved. Put in the one minute, then add the fern 5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced A simple recipe from Kalimantan,
tips, turmeric leaves, and
tempeh and cook, stirring tamarind juice. Simmer, stirring 11/4 Ib (600 g) boneless pork where pork (particularly wild
frequently, until the sauce frequently, until the fern tips are shoulder or leg, cut in 3/4-in boar from the jungle) is popular
has reduced and caramelized. tender. Season to taste with salt. (2-cm) cubes among the Dyaks.
Season to taste with salt. Add 3 in (8 cm) ginger, peeled and
the bird's-eye chilies just before HELPFUL HINT sliced lengthwise 1 Ib (500 g) pork, cut in 3/4-in
serving. 4 tablespoons sweet soy sauce (2-cm) cubes
If you are unable to find fern 4 tomatoes, sliced
tips, spinach or asparagus is an 2 tablespoons thin soy sauce
4-6 coarse chives (kuca/), or
acceptable substitute. 1 teaspoon black peppercorns,
scallions (spring onions)
Fern Tips in Coconut Milk crushed
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
(page 87)
Spice Paste
6-10 bird's-eye chilies, left whole 4 shallots, peeled and sliced
4 red chilies, sliced
Heat oil in a wok or heavy 1 in (2 1 /2 cm) ginger, peeled
saucepan. Add shallots and garlic and sliced
and saute for 2 minutes over 1 teaspoon salt
medium heat or until lightly
colored. Add pork and ginger Prepare spice paste by grinding or
and continue to saute for 2 more blending all ingredients togeth-
minutes over high heat. Add both er. Combine in a saucepan with
types of soy sauce and black all other ingredients and sim-
pepper and continue sauteing mer until the pork is tender. If
for 1 minute. the gravy threatens to dry out
Pour in chicken stock and before the pork is cooked, add a
chilies and simmer over medium little more warm water.
heat for approximately 1 hour.
When done, there should be very
little sauce left and the meat
should be shiny and dark brown.
If the meat becomes too dry
during cooking, add a little
chicken stock.

80 1 THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A LI _________________________ -----'1 M A I N DIS H E S


1 tablespoon tamarind juice
Be Sampi Mesitsit 1 teaspoon sa It
Dry Spiced B.eef Spice Paste
Beef in Coconut Milk
This dish is so wonderfully 5 shallots
flavored, that it's worth making 2 cloves garlic
a large amount. It is excellent as 5 red chilies, sliced
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp
a finger food with cocktails, and paste (trasl1
also makes a tasty accompani- 2 tablespoons oil
ment to rice-based meals.

2 Ib (1 kg) beef top round, cut in
4 steaks of 8 oz (250 g) each
8 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons coriander seeds,
crushed Rendang
1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar Sapi
2 large red chilies, seeded Beef in Coconut
2 tablespoons galangal (laos), Milk
peeled and sliced Peel the shrimp
This is one of the most and devein. Open the
2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste
(trasl1 popular Padang dishes from pods and remove the beans.
2 cloves, ground West Sumatra. Prepare the spice paste by
1 teaspoon salt grinding or pounding all
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 2 Ib (1 kg) top round beef ingredients, except oil. Heat
coarsely ground 8 cups (2 liters) coconut milk oil and saute the spice paste
2 tablespoons oil (made from 2 coconuts if using until fragrant.
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed freshly grated coconut) Add the shrimp and saute
lime juice 3 salam leaves Sambal Udang until they change color. Put
3 kaffir limes Shrimp in Hot Sauce in the stinkbeans and coconut
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of lightly 3 fresh turmeric leaves (optional)
salted water to a boil in stockpot. 3 in (8 cm) cinnamon stick Even if stinkbeans (petai) are not milk and bring to a boil, stir-
Add beef and boil for approxi- 5 whole star anise available, the shrimp partnered ring. Add the potatoes and
mately 1 hour until very tender. 5 cardamom pods, bruised with potatoes and a rich sauce tamarind juice and simmer,
Remove from stock. Meat must be 1 teaspoon sa It are excellent. uncovered, until potatoes and
so tender that its fibers separate shrimp are cooked and the
very easily. Reserve stock. Pound Spice Paste sauce has thickened. Season
meat until flat and shred by hand 8 red chilies, sliced 1 Ib (500 g) shrimp with salt and serve.
into fine fibers. 12 shallots, peeled and sliced 5 pods (about 20 beans) stinkbeans
Place garlic, coriander, 10 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced (petal), optional
palm sugar, red chilies, laos, 2 in (5 em) ginger, peeled and 2 cups (500 ml) coconut milk
dried shrimp paste, cloves, salt, sliced 4 potatoes, peeled and cut in wedges
and pepper in a food processor 2 in (5 cm) galangal (laos), peeled Shrimp in Hot Sauce
and puree coarsely, or grind in and sliced
a stone mortar. Heat oil in 1 teaspoon black peppercorns,
heavy saucepan and saute the crushed
marinade for 2 minutes over
medium heat. Add shredded Prepare the spice paste by grind-
beef, mix well and saute until ing or blending all ingredients
dry. Season with lime juice. finely.
Remove from heat and allow Cut the beef into 1/4-in
to cool. Serve at room tempera- (l12-cm) thick slices about I-in
ture with steamed rice. (2 1 12-cm) square. Put the
beef, spice paste and all other
HELPFUL HINT ingredients into a wok and
bring slowly to a boil, stirring
Do not be tem pted to use a
food processor to shred the constantly to prevent the coconut
meat; you wi ll obtain the correct milk from separating. Cook over
low heat, stirring from time to
texture only by shredding the
meat with your fi ngers or a fork. time, until the meat is very
tender and all the sauce has
evaporated. Continue cooking
the beef, which will fry in the
oil that has come out of the
coconut milk, until rich brown.

M A I N D I S H E S J l N D O N E S I A l 8



Udang Pantung Kunin Arsin Ikan Ma
Lobster in Yellow Simmered River




A real gourmet treat from Bali I ½ lb (750 g) freshwater fish



this could also be made wit either 1 large fish or 2-4 smalle



huge shrimp fish, cleaned and gutte


½ teaspoon sal


4 small lobsters, weighing abou Liberal sprinkle of ground whit

1 lb (500 g) each, or 2 lb (1 kg pepper


large shrim 2 cups (500 ml) water
5 cups ( 1 ¼ liters) wate 2 stalks lemongrass, bruise


2 stalks lemongrass, bruise 2 tablespoons tamarind juic
2 fragrant lime leave


Few drops white vinega Spice Past

4 cups (1 liter) coconut mil 8 shallots, peeled and choppe



Fried shallots to garnish (page 87 3 cloves garlic, peeled an
chopped
Spice Past ½ teaspoon sal

5 red chilies, deseeded and chopped 6 candlenut


3 cloves garlic, peeled and choppe 1 in ( 2 ½ cm) ginger, peeled an
sliced
7 shallots, peeled and choppe




1 in ( 2 ½ cm) fresh turmeric

2 in (5 cm) fresh turmeric, peele Spicy Fried Sardines

peeled and sliced (or 1 teaspoo



and chopped (or 2 teaspoon
powder) l


powder) Add fish and continue to simmer l2 in (1 cm) galangal

1 in ( 2 ½ cm) galangal




2 in (5 cm) ginger, peele peeled and slice until cooked, turning fish ove peeled and slice
and choppe 15 red chilies, deseeded an gently from time to time. 1 large tomato, cut in wedge

Remove fish carefully fro

5 candlenut sliced stock, arrange on platter an 2 tablespoons tamarind juic



1 salam lea
I ½ teaspoons coriander seed pour stock over. Garnish wit

l /2 teaspoon dried shrimp past Garnish scallions, pineapple, and lime. ½ teaspoon brown suga


3 tablespoons wate
{trasi), toasted 3 scallions (spring onions), Basil sprigs to garnish (optional

1 small tomato, peeled and seede chopped

1 /2 small pineapple, peeled an

2 tablespoons oi sliced Spice Past
x


l /2 tablespoons tamarind pul Ikan Bumbu Aca 1 in ( 2 ½ cm) fresh turmeric,


2 fresh limes or lemons, cut i Spicy Fried



1 salam lea peeled and chopped (o
wedges
1 stalk lemongrass, bruise 1 teaspoon powder

Season fish inside and out wit 1 ¼ lb (600 g) sardines or other ½ in (1 cm) ginger, peeled an

Prepare spice paste by grinding salt and pepper. Prepare spic small fish, cleane chopped



or blending all ingredients excep paste by grinding or blending al 2 teaspoons sal 2 candlenut




oil, tamarind, salam leaf, an ingredients finely. Put in a pan 6 tablespoons oi 2 shallots, peeled and slice




lemongrass. Heat oil, add spic with water and other ingredi- 2 red chilies, deseeded and slice 2 cloves garlic, peeled an



paste and all other ingredients ents, except fish. Bring to a boil, 13 green bird's-eye chilies, slice chopped


Cook over moderate heat fo reduce heat and simmer, uncov- 2 cloves garlic, peeled and slice 1 teaspoon white peppercorns








about 5 minutes, then cool ered, for 10 minutes. Add a little 7 shallots, peeled and slice crushed


Wash lobsters and leav more water if the stock evapo- ½ in (1 cm) ginger, peele 1 /2 teaspoon coriander seeds


whole. Bring water to a boil, ad rates too much. and slice crushed



lobsters and simmer for 15 min- 2 tablespoons vegetable oi
utes. Remove lobsters, plunge in Lobster in

iced water for 1 minute, the Yellow Sauce Prepare spice paste by grinding


drain and remove meat. Retur or blending all ingredients,

shells to the pot of water except oil. Heat oil and gentl


keeping lobster meat aside. saute the spice paste for 3 to


Add spice paste, lemon- minutes until fragrant, the

grass, lime leaves, and vine-
gar to the water with th set aside.

Wash the sardines, drai
shells and simmer unti

4 cups (1 liter) of stoc and sprinkle with salt. Heat



remain. Add coconu 3 tablespoons of the oil in
milk and simmer for 1 wok and saute the chilies,




minutes. Strain stoc I garlic, shallots, ginger

and return to pan. Ad galangal, tomato, tamarin



lobster and simme juice, and salam leaf ove




for 1 minute. Serv high heat for 1 minute,
garnished with frie stirring constantly. Add sugar,
shallots and accompanied then the spice paste and fry fo


by white rice. another 2 minutes, stirrin
frequently.

82 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ____________________________________________________ ~I MAIN DISHES


In another pan, heat remain-
ing oil and fry the fish until golden Kenus Mebase Bali
brown, Drain, then combine Balinese Squid
with the spicy sauce in the wok
and add water, Cook for another If squid is unavailable, replace
minute, stirring to mix well, with large cuttlefish or any
then serve garnished with basiL other firm fish fillets, such
as snapper or sea bass.


Pesan Be Pasih 11/4 Ib (600 g) baby squid
Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf 1 tablespoon freshly
squeezed lime juice
1/4-1 /2 teaspoon ground
1 Ib (500 g) skinned boneless
white pepper
snapper fillet, cut in 4
1/2 teaspoon sa It
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons oil
1 cup (250 ml) spice paste for
5 shallots, peeled and
seafood (page 86)
sliced
4 banana leaves, cut in 6 in (15 cm)
2 large red chilies, seeded
squares
and sliced
8 sprigs lemon basil
1/2 cup (125 ml) spice paste
4 salam leaves
for seafood (page 86)
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
Season fish fillet with salt and (page 87)
cover evenly with seafood 5 sprigs lemon basil, sliced
spice paste. Cover and leave Fried shallots (page 87)
to marinate in cool place for Sprigs of lemon basil to garnish Buginese Chicken
6 hours. Place each fillet in
center of each banana leaf, Remove skin of squid and pull Season to taste and garnish with 2 salam leaves
top each with 2 sprigs of lemon out the tentacles and head. Cut lemon basil and fried shallots 3 in (8 cm) cinnamon stick
basil and 1 salam leaf. Fold off and discard the head and 4 cloves
banana leaves around fillets beaky portion, but reserve the 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
in shape of a small parcel and tentacles, if desired. Clean the . 1 teaspoon salt
fasten with a toothpick. Steam squid thoroughly inside and Ayam Masak Bugis 1 teaspoon chopped palm sugar
parcels for 15 minutes, then out. Marinate sqUid with lime Buginese Chicken 1 tablespoon white vinegar
place on charcoal grill or under juice, pepper and salt. 4 cups (1 liter) coconut milk
Fried shallots to garnish (page 87)
a broiler and cook for 5 minutes Heat oil in wok, add shallots, 1 whole chicken (2-3 Ib/l-l1/2 kg)
until banana leaves are evenly chilies and squid and saute for 4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock Bring chicken stock to a boil in
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
browned. 2 minutes over high heat. Add 12 shallots, peeled and sliced a heavy saucepan, then add all
seafood spice paste and continue 1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste other ingredients, except chicken,
HELPFUL HINT to saute for 1 more minute. Pour (trasi), toasted coconut milk and fried shallots.
in chicken stock, add the sliced 2 tablespoons tamarind juice Bring back to a boil, lower heat
You can steam the packets and simmer, uncovered, for
several hours before barbecuing. basil and bring to a boiL Reduce 2 teaspoons white peppercorns, 5 minutes. Add whole chicken
heat and simmer for 1 minute. crushed
and coconut mille. Bring back
to a boil, stirring frequently,
Balinese Squid then lower heat. Simmer
uncovered, turning chicken
from time to time, until it is
tender. Remove chicken and
continue simmering the stock
until reduced by half. Serve
garnished with fried shallots.

HELPFUL HINT
Balinese Squid: If you are using
frozen squid, plunge in boiling
water for 30 seconds to seal
the squid, thus ensuring that it
sautes rather than stews.

M A I N D I S H E S J l N D O N E S I A l 8


Ayam Goreng Y o g y a Bebek Menyatnya
Yogya Fried Chicken Duck


1 fresh chicken (2 lb/1 kg), cut i Ducks waddling along the banks



8 piece of the rice fields or following th

2 cups (500 m!) wate flag held by their owner (or his
Oil for deep-fryin children) are a common sight in


Bali. On festive occasions, duc


Spice Past is a great favorite. Chicken coul

1 tablespoon coriander seed be used as a substitute for duck

3 cloves garlic, peeled and slice if preferred
3 /4 in (2 cm) fresh turmeric,

peeled and slice 1 whole duck, weighing about

3 /4 in (2 cm) ginger, peeled an 4 lb (2 kg

sliced 8 cups (2 liters) coconut mil
l

/2 in (1 cm) galangal Uaos), 2 stalks lemongrass, bruise

peeled and slice 2 salam leave

1 tablespoon chopped palm suga 1 tablespoon sal
2 tablespoons oi 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 salam leave crushed


Fried shallots to garnish (page 87
Prepare the spice paste by grind-
ing or blending all ingredients, Spice Past

except oil and salam leaves, until 12 shallots, peeled and slice




fine. Heat oil in a wok and saut 6 cloves garlic, peeled and slice

the spice paste and salam leaves 4 red chilies, slice Chicken with Green Tomatoes


for 3 minutes. Add chicken an 1 in ( 2 ½ cm) galangal Uaos),



cook, stirring, until well coated. peeled and slice Cut the duck into 12 pieces and


Add water and simmer, uncov- 1 in ( 2 ½ cm) kencur, peeled an pat dry. Prepare the spice paste Ayam Cincan



ered, until chicken is almost sliced by grinding or blending al Chicken with Green



cooked and sauce is dry. Leave 2 in (5 cm) fresh turmeric, peele ingredients, except oil. Heat the

to cool. and slice oil and saute the spice paste fo This recipe comes from West and

Just before chicken is required, 2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed South Kalimantan, where it is

heat oil and deep-fry chicke 3 candlenut 2 minutes. Add the duck usually made with a free-rang




until crisp and golden brown 1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (trasi) increase heat and saute fo or kampung chicken. As this is




Serve with the sambal of ¼ teaspoon black peppercorns 3 minutes, stirring frequently often as tough as it is flavorful

your choice. crushed Add the coconut milk and al the meat is simmered in water

Pinch of freshly grated nutme other ingredients,except frie first. If you are using a normal



2 clove shallots, and simmer, uncov- tender chicken, this preliminar
3 tablespoons oi ered, until the duck is tender step is very brief.

and the sauce has thickened



Garnish with fried shallots an 1 fresh chicken (2-3 lb/1-1 ½ kg)
serve with white rice. cut in 8-12 piece
Duck Curry 1 teaspoon sal
1 tablespoon lime or lemon juic


10 red chilies, deseeded and slice
12 shallots, peeled and slice
4 green tomatoes, slice
1 sprig basil

3 kaffir lime leave
2 scallions (spring onions), sliced
½ in (1 cm) ginger, peeled an

sliced
5 bird's-eye chilies, slice


Season the chicken with sal

and lime juice and set aside fo
20 minutes. Put the chicken i

a wok, add 2 cups (500 ml

water and simmer, uncovered

until the chicken is just tender

Add all remaining ingredients

except bird's-eye chilies, and

continue cooking for anothe
5 minutes.

Sprinkle with bird's-ey
chilies and serve.

84 I THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A I L ____________________________________________________ ~I DESSERTS



Indonesian desserts are usual-
ly very colorful, and you'll
notice that coconut, palm
sugar, and pimdan (screwpine)
leaves are indispensable.



Es Campur
Mixed Ice

11/4 ripe papaya, peeled and diced
1/2 avocado, peeled and diced
1 tomato, diced
1/4 ripe pineapple, peeled and diced
8 tablespoons agar-agar jelly cubes
or flavored gelatin cubes
8 tablespoons diced fermented
tapioca (tape), (optional)
8 tablespoons diced ko/ang kaling
(palm fruit, available in cans)
1 young coconut, flesh removed
with spoon (optional)
1 cup (250 ml) coconut water
from young coconut
1/2 cup (125 ml) condensed milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) palm sugar syrup
(page 87)
4 cups crushed ice
Rinse the rice very well under
Cut all fruits into 1/4 in (1/2 cm) Kue Nagasari HELPFUL HINT
dice. Combine with all other Steamed Banana Cakes running water for 2 minutes
Tepong hoen kwe is sold in
ingredients; except ice, and mix paper-wrapped cylinders; some- and soak for 4 hours. Rinse
again until water becomes clear.
well. Add crushed ice and serve Bananas are the most common times, the flour is colored pink Place rice, 1 cup (250 ml)
immediately. fruit in Indonesia, so it's not or green and the paper wrapper
surprising they appear in so is' correspondingly colored. This water and pandan leaf in rice
many desserts and cakes. flbur gives a more delicate tex- cooker or steamer and cook for
ture than rice flour, although approximately 20 minutes, or
Ongol-ongol 11/2 cups (240 g) mung pea flour the latter is an acceptable sub- until liquid has evaporated.
Sago Flour Roll (tepong hoen kwe) or rice flour stitute often used in Indonesia. Add the palm sugar syrup,
1/3 cup (80 g) white sugar coconut milk and salt, and
steam for 15 minutes. Spread
1 cup (160 g) sago flour 21/4 cups (550 ml) coconut milk
the rice evenly 1 in (2 1 / 2 cm)
1 cup (150 g) chopped palm sugar Pinch of salt thick on tray and allow to
2 pandan leaves 6 in (15 cm) squares of banana leaf Wajik cool to room temperature.
3 1 i2 cups (875 ml) water 6 small or 2 large bananas, cut in Rice Flour Cake with Palm Sugar Wet a sharp knife with warm
Large square of banana leaf or
1/2 -in (1-cm) thick slices about water and cut into even squares
parchment paper
21/2-in (6-cm) in length There are a couple of variations to serve.
Freshly grated coconut or moistened on this popular cake, which can
dried unsweetened coconut Combine the flour and sugar in be stored in the refrigerator for
1/2 teaspoon salt a bowl and stir in coconut milk, several days. It is normally served HELPFUL HINT
Palm sugar syrup (page 87) mixing well. Add salt and slowly at room temperature, but can To speed up the soaking
bring the mixture to a boil in a process, pour boil ing water
Combine flour, sugar, pandan heavy pan (preferably nonstick). also be served warm topped with over the rice and let stand for
leaves, and water in a heavy pan Simmer until the mixture is coconut mille. Another variation 1 hour. Drain, then add another
and bring to a boil. Simmer over very thick, then leave to cool. is to add ripe diced jackfruit (or lot of boiling water and soak for
low heat for 30 minutes until Put 1 heaped tablespoon of substitute with sultanas) after another 30 minutes. If you are
thickened, then leave until cool the mixture onto a square of the rice is partially cooked. using a steamer to cook the
enough to handle. banana leaf. Top with a piece of rice, line the bottom with a wet
Place the mixture on a large banana and cover with another 1 cup (200 g) uncooked glutinous cloth to prevent the rice grains
square of banana leaf and roll tablespoonful of mixture. Wrap (or sticky) white rice from fa II i ng th rough.
up in a cylinder. Fasten the ends up the banana leaf, tucking in 1 cup (250 ml) water
with toothpicks and allow to the sides first and then rolling it 1 pandan leaf
cool. Serve the ongol-ongol sliced, over envelope style. Steam for 1/2 cup (125 ml) palm sugar syrup
sprinkled with a little coconut about 20 minutes, cool and (page 87)
mixed with salt, and pour over serve at room temperature. 1/4 cup (60 ml) thick coconut milk
palm sugar syrup. Pinch of salt

D E S S E R T S J l N D O N E S I A l 8


is used up. Cool pancakes dow

Dadar to room temperature

Coconut To make the filling, combin

sugar syrup and grated coconu

and mix well. Add pandan lea
Both the pancakes and the fillin and fry over low heat in fryin


can be made in advance an pan for 2 minutes, stirring


refrigerated; allow both to come to continuously. Cool and us

room temperature before filling at room temperature


Place 1 tablespoon o

Pancakes coconut filling in center
3 ½ oz (100 g) rice flou of each pancake, fold a

2 tablespoons suga edge and roll tightly into
¼ teaspoon sal tube shape.
3 egg
1 cup (250 ml) fresh coconut mil


2 tablespoons coconut oi
Pisang Goreng

Filling Fried Banana


½ cup (125 ml) palm sugar syru



(page 87 Whole bananas dipped in
1 cup (100 g) freshly grate batter and deep fried are very


coconut popular; if the bananas becom

1 pandan lea over-ripe, they are often mashe


and prepared by the followin

To make the pancakes, combin method.
rice flour, sugar, salt, eggs, coconut
milk, and coconut oil in a deep 6 medium-sized ripe bananas Black Rice


mixing bowl. Stir well with whisk peeled Pudding

until all lumps dissolve. Strain 1 tablespoon white suga



through a sieve. Batter shoul 1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain crowd the wok or the temperature



be very liquid in consistency flour the oil will be lowered. Whe HELPFUL HIN





Heat non-stick pan over low heat. Oil for deep-fryin cakes are crisp and golde As fresh coconut milk turns ran-








For each pancake, pour in brown, drain on paper towe cid fairly quickly, a pinch of sal







tablespoons of the batter an Mash bananas finely and mi and serve while still warm. is usually added to the milk t









cook for about 2 minutes, unti with sugar and white flour. Hea help preserve it for a few hours


the top is just set. Turn th oil in a wok and drop in a large



pancake over and cook a furthe spoonful of batter. Cook severa



minute. Repeat until all the batter at one time, but do not over of Bubuh Inji

Black Rice

Coconut Pancake

1 cup (200 g) black glutinou
rice
3

/4 cup (150 g) white glutinou
rice
2 pandan leave
5 cups ( 1 ¼ liters) water


½ cup (125 ml) palm sugar syru


(page 87

Pinch of sal
I ½ cups (375 ml) freshly squeezed

thick coconut mil


Rinse both types of rice thor-

oughly for 2 minutes unde


running water. Drain. Put


cups ( 1 ¼ liters) water, bot


types of rice and pandan lea


into heavy pan. Simmer ove
medium heat for approximatel


40 minutes
Add palm sugar syrup an

cook until most of the liquid


has evaporated. Season with


pinch of salt. Remove from heat
allow to cool. Serve at room
temperature, topped with freshl

squeezed coconut milk

86 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~__________________________________ ~I STOCKS, SAUCES, & CONDIMENTS
I



Base be Siap
Spice Paste for Chicken


14 shallots, peeled
26 cloves garlic, peeled
1 in (2 1 /2 em) kencur, peeled
and chopped
11/2 in (4 cm) galangal (laos),
peeled and chopped
10 candlenuts
5 in (12 cm) fresh turmeric,
peeled and chopped (or
5 teaspoons powder)
4 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 stalks lemongrass, bruised
2 salam leaves
10 bird's-eye chilies, finely sliced
Put shallots, garlic, kencur, laos,
candlenuts, turmeric, and palm
sugar into a food processor and
grind coarsely. Heat oil and fry
all ingredients until very hot,
stirring frequently, until the
marinade changes to a golden
color. Cool before using.


Spice Paste for Beef
Base be Sampi
Spice Paste for Beef
Base be Pasih Base Jukut Sambal Tomat
10 shallots, peeled and chopped Spice Paste for Seafood Spice Paste for Vegetables Tomato Sambal
6 cloves garlic, peeled and
chopped
10 large red chilies, seeded and 8 shallots, peeled and chopped 4 tablespoons oil
2 in (5 cm) ginger, peeled and
chopped 10 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 15 shallots, peeled and sliced
chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 12 in (30 cm) galangal (laos), 10 cloves garlic, peeled and
4 in (10 cm) galangal (laos),
15 shallots, peeled and chopped peeled and thinly sliced sliced
peeled and chopped
4 in (10 cm) ginger, peeled 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 14 large red chilies, seeds removed,
6 large red chilies, seeded and
and chopped 4 in (10 cm) fresh turmeric, sliced
chopped
4 in (1O cm) fresh turmeric, peeled peeled and sliced 2 medium-sized tomatoes cut in
7 bird's-eye chilies
and chopped (or 4 teaspoons 6 large red chilies, seeded and wedges
10 candlenuts
powder) chopped 2 teaspoons roasted dried shrimp
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 medium-sized tomato, skinned 3-5 bird's-eye chilies paste {trast1
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
and seeded 2 in (5 cm) kencur, peeled 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime
4 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
1 tablespoon coriander seeds and chopped juice
4 tablespoons oil
10 candlenuts 1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste Sa It to taste
2 salam leaves
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste {trast1 Heat oil in a heavy saucepan or
(tras/) 2 tablespoons oil
Combine all ingredients, except 4 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon salt wok. Add shallots and garlic
oil and salam leaves, place in 2 salam leaves 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper and saute 5 minutes over low
food processor and grind coarsely. 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised 1 salam leaf, whole heat. Add chilies and saute
Heat vegetable oil in heavy 3 tablespoons tamarind pulp 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised another 5 minutes, then add
saucepan or wok until very hot. tomatoes and shrimp paste and
Add ground ingredients together Process all ingredients, except Place shallots, garlic, laos, simmer for another 10 minutes.
with salam leaves and cook over oil, tamarind pulp, salam leaves, coriander seeds, turmeric, chilies, Add lime juice. Put all
medium heat for 5 minutes, and lemon grass, until coarsely kencur; and dried shrimp paste in ingredients in a food processor
stirring frequently, until marinade ground. Heat oil, add ingredients, food processor and puree lightly, and puree coarsely. Season to
changes to a golden color. Set except tamarind. Stir frequently or grind coarsely in mortar. Heat taste with salt. Cool before
aside and cool before using. over moderate heat until fragrant oil in wok or heavy saucepan. using. This sambal can be
frozen. An ideal accompani-
and golden,S minutes. Finish Add the ground paste and ment to grilled fish.
with tamarind. Let cool. remaining ingredients, and saute
for 2 minutes or until marinade
changes color. Cool before using.

S T O C K S , S A U C E S , & C O N D I M E N T S L J l N D O N E S I A l 8












































Tomato Sambal

2 tablespoons fried shallot Rinse bones until water is clear, Peel shallots and slice in half



Sambal Sere Tabi (page 87 put in large saucepan with col lengthwise, then cut in fin
water to cover and bring to a boil.



Fried Bird's-eye 3 in (8 cm) kencur, peeled an crosswise slices. Combine with



coarsely choppe Drain water, wash bones unde all other ingredients and mi


1 tablespoon freshly squeeze running water. Return bones to thoroughly for a couple of

25 bird's-eye chilie lime juic the pan, cover with fresh wate minutes before serving wit




x /4 cup (60 ml) oi and boil. Reduce heat an fish or chicken






I ½ teaspoons dried shrimp past 2 teaspoons sal


6 cups ( I ½ liters) wate remove scum with a ladle.
(trasi) Add all seasoning ingredient

x
/4 teaspoon sal Combine peanuts, garlic, kencur and simmer stock gentl


and chilies and process or grin uncovered for 3 to 3 ½ hours Bawang Goreng





Clean and discard the stems of until coarse. Put in a heavy removing scum. Strain stock, cool Fried

the chilies. Heat oil in a wok or pan with all other ingredients and store in small containers i



saucepan until smoking except lime juice and shallots the freezer ¼ cup (60 ml) oi




Crumble dried shrimp paste an and simmer over very low heat 10-15 shallots, peeled and thinl




combine with salt for 1 hour, stirring constantl sliced


Add chilies, shrimp paste, to prevent the sauce fro

and salt to the oil, stir over heat burning. Stir in lime juice an Heat oil until moderately hot




for 1 minute and then remov sprinkle with shallots just Sambal Mata Add shallots and fry until golden


from heat and allow to cool. before serving Shallot & Lemongrass brown. Remove and drai





Store chilies and cooking oil in thoroughly before storing in
an airtight container for up to 15 shallot an airtight jar.
1 week in a refrigerator 4 cloves garlic, sliced finel


Kuah Sia 10-15 bird's-eye chilies, slice



Chicken 5 fragrant lime leaves, cut in fine Palm Sugar Syru
shreds
Base Kacan 1 lb (500 g) chicken bones 1 teaspoon roasted dried shrim Combine 2 cups of choppe







Peanut chopped in 1-in (2½-cm) piece paste palm sugar and 1 cup of water



I ½ cups (375 ml) spice paste fo 4 stalks lemongrass, tender par adding 2 pandan leaves if



3 cups (500 g) raw peanuts, dee chicken (page 86 only, very finely slice available. Bring to boil, simme






fried for 2 minute 1 stalk lemongrass, lightly bruise 1 teaspoon sal for 10 minutes, strain and stor



4 cloves garlic, peele 3 fragrant lime leave ¼ teaspoon black peppercorns in the refrigerator


10-15 bird's-eye chilies 2 salam leave finely crushe


sliced 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 tablespoons freshly squeeze

3 fragrant lime leave coarsely crushe lime juic



½ cup (125 ml) sweet soy sauce 1 teaspoon sal V3 cup (90 ml) oil

"Japanese cuisine
today is a symbiosis
f culinary influences
imported from the
utside world, refined
and adapted to
reflect local prefer-
ences in taste and
presentation. "

____________________________________________________________________________ ~I JAPAN i 89






APAN














From the land of endless ingenuity has come a cUIsine
designed for the eyes as well as the palate.


























Left: Everyone enjoys a box
lunch, from school children
and salary men to Buddhist
monks.
Right: The serene beauty of
Kyoto's Golden Pavilion
temple is emblematic of
traditional Japanese
culture.

More than any other cuisine in the world, Poultry and meat are also eaten, although they
Japanese food is a complete aesthetic experience are less important than the humble soybean,
for the eyes, the nose and the palate. The pre- which appears as nutritionally rich bean curd
sentation of food is as important as the food (tofu); as miso, fermented soybean paste used for
itself, with great care given to detail, color, soups and seasoning; and as soy sauce.
form, and balance. In Japan, cuisine is culture, Over 43 percent of the nation's 124 million
and culture cuisine; food is meant to create people is crammed into the three major coastal
order out of chaos, complement nature from metropolises of Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya. Fully
whence it came and still be presentational. two-thirds of the land is mountainous or forested;
It is a cuisine developed out of austerity and a just over 14 percent is agricultural, and a little
sense of restraint. over four percent is used for housing.
Japan is composed of four main islands-
Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu-and
The Land and its People several thousand smaller islands stretching 1900
Japan's position north-east on the Southeast Asian miles from Hokkaido.
monsoonal belt means the islands generally expe- Hokkaido is a land of wide expanses, dairy
rience a temperate oceanic climate. Surrounded by farms, ranches, and meadows, reminiscent of the
sea, the Japanese have made its bounty-seaweed, American Midwest, and home to the Ainu, the
fish and shellfish-a vital part of their diet. There indigenous people of Japan, a small Caucasoid
is a Japanese saying that a meal should always minority. They were once hunters and fishermen
include "something from the mountain and some- who are thought to have roamed large areas of
thing from the sea," hence vegetables and rice. northern Honshu.

I
90 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L__________________________________________________________________ __


cuisine. Shojin ryori (vegetarian
Buddhist temple fare), heavily
influenced by Chinese Buddhist
temple cooking, features small
portions of a wide variety of
vegetarian foods prepared in one
of five standard cooking methods.
Shojin ryori guidelines place
emphasis on food of five colors
(green, red, yellow, white, and
black-purple) and six flavors
(bitter, sour, sweet, hot, salty,
and delicate). It was an extremely
important culinary influence and
the tradition lives on today. Shojin
ryori also led to the development
of cha kaiseki, food served before
the tea ceremony, in the
mid-16th century.
Japan's trade with the outside
world from the 14th to 16th
centuries brought many new
influences. Kabocha, the green-
skinned winter squash, was
introduced by the Portuguese in
the 16th century. The Portuguese
are also credited with introducing
tempura (batter-fried foods) as well
as the popular cake kasutera
(castilla). A century later, the
Each season has its special foods. Restaurants and private homes change Dutch brought corn, potatoes, and sweet potatoes. European cooking
their serving dishes to suit the season, as in this autumnal spread. created some interest and developed into what came to be known in
Japan as "the cooking of the Southern Barbarians" or Nanban ryori.
Central Japan encompasses the Sea of Japan coastal areas, where During the Edo Period (1603- 1857), Japan underwent almost
fishing villages can still be found, and the Japan Alps region centred three centuries of self-imposed seclusion from the outside world,
in Nagano Prefecture, sometimes called the Roof of Japan. Three which led to the development of a highly refined and distinctive
major mountain ranges traverse Nagano, and from the Koumi train Japanese culture. The Meiji Period (1868-1912) marked the return
line that runs through central Nagano, it is possible to enjoy views of of contact and trade, and the early 20th century renewed interest in
the Japan Alps, the still-active volcano Mount Asama, and Mount things foreign.
Fuji, at 12,300 feet, Japan's highest mountain and a sacred symbol Japanese cuisine today is a symbiosis of culinary influences
of the nation. imported from the outside world, refined and adapted to reflect local
Kyushu, the third largest of Japan's islands, is renowned for its preferences in taste and presentation. The desire to adapt outside
Imari and Arita pottery, hot springs resorts and active volcanoes. influences to local tastes has produced unique blendings of East and
Nagasaki in western Kyushu was traditionally the center of trade West, including green-tea ice cream and seaweed-flavored potato
with China and Holland and Japan's door to the outside world. chips, even cod-roe spaghetti!
Shikoku is Japan's fourth largest island. The Chinese influence is discernible: it was from China that
The Ryukyu archipelago includes the southernmost province of Japan learned the art of making bean curd and how to use chop-
Okinawa, comprising 160 islands, and stretches towards Taiwan. sticks. China was also the origin of soy sauce, although today's
Japanese-style soy sauce is a product of the 15 th century. Tea was
first introduced from China in the 9th century, but gradually faded
The Maldng of a Cuisine from use only to be reintroduced by a Zen priest in the late 12th
Japan's distinctive style of cuisine began to develop during the Heian century. Rice cultivation began in Japan around 300 BC and is still
Period (794-1185). The capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto, and the cornerstone of a Japanese meal.
the thriving aristocracy indulged its interests in art, literature, poet-
ry, fine cuisine, and elaborate games and pastimes. Elegant dining
became an important part of the lifestyle and the aristocracy were The Food of the People
not only gourmets, but gourmands who supplemented their regular The drastic extremes in Japan's climate- from the very cold northern
two meals a day with numerous between-meal snacks. Today, Kyo island of Hokkaido to the subtropical southern islands of Okinawa-
ryori, the cuisine of Kyoto, represents the ultimate in Japanese dining have led to the creation of regional cuisines.
and features an assortment of carefully prepared and exquisitely In Hokkaido, which is not conducive to rice cultivation, the people
presented delicacies. have acquired a taste for potatoes, corn, dairy products, barbecued
In 1185, the government moved to Kamakura, where the more meats, and salmon. Their version of Chinese noodles, called Sapporo
austere samurai lifestyle and Zen Buddhism fostered a more simple ramen, is often served with a dab of butter. Seafood o-nabe (one-pot

______________________________________________________________________________ ~i JAPANi 91



stew) featuring crab, scallops, and salmon is also a specialty of the blossoms floating in the clear, slightly salty beverage to signal the
region. auspicious event. Other spring delicacies include bamboo sprouts,
There are differences in the food preferences of the residents of bonito, and rape blossoms.
the Kanto region (centered around Tokyo and Yokohama) and the Summer is the time for grilled eel, which is believed to supply the
Kansai region (Kyoto, Osaka and environs). In the Kansai area, fer- energy needed to survive the sticky, humid weather. It is also the
mented miso is almost white compared with the darker brown and time for octopus, abalone, and fresh fruits and vegetables, especially
red miso favored in the Kanto region. Eastern and Western Japan are the summer favorite, edamame-fresh soybeans boiled in the pod and
also divided by differing tastes in sushi, sweets, and pickles. The Kyoto dusted with salt-the perfect accompaniment for beer on a hot sum-
area is identified with the light, delicately flavored cuisine of the mer's night. Another summer treat is cold noodles served with a
ancient court, true haute cuisine. dashi and soy sauce dip.
Located halfway between Tokyo and Kyoto is Nagoya, known for Strings of persimmons drying can be seen dangling from the
Its flat udon noodles and uiro, a sweet rice jelly. The island's famous eaves of many a farmhouse in the countryside in autumn. This is
Sanuki udon noodles, fresh sardines, and mandarins are popular with also the season for roasted chestnuts, soba noodles, and mushrooms.
pilgrims visiting the Buddhist temples on Shikoku. Kyushu is known Matsutake, highly prized mushrooms savored for their distinctive
for its tea, fruits, and seafood, and for the Chinese and Western culi- fragrance, appear now and are used in soups and rice dishes. Late
nary influences that developed because of Nagasaki's role as a center autumn is the time for preserving the year's vegetable harvest for
of trade with the outside world. winter. A large variety of pickling methods are popular in Japan, the
On the islands of Okinawa, dishes featuring pork are favored. most common using miso, salt, vinegar or rice bran as preservatives.
Sweets made with raw sugar, pineapple, and papaya are also popular, Winter brings fugu sashimi, strips of raw blowfish which can be a
as are several powerful local drinks: awamori, made from sweet pota- deadly delicacy if the fish is not handled properly by a licensed chef.
toes, and habu sake, complete with a deadly habu snake coiled inside Mandarins and o-nabe, warming one-pot stews, are also enjoyed. On
the bottle. the final day of the year, it is customary to eat soba to guarantee
The o-bento or box lunch is a microcosm of Japanese cuisine, con- health and longevity in the new year.
sisting of white rice and an assortment of tiny helpings of meat, fish, Few things are as quintessentially Japanese as the ritual tea cere-
vegetables, egg, fruit, and a sour plum (umeboshi), all arranged in a mony which encapsulates all the refinement, discipline and mys-
small rectangular box. Since only small portions of each dish are tique of Japanese culture. Cha-noyu, the Way of Tea, began in
included and a well-balanced variety of foods is necessary, preparing the 15th century, and in its early form placed much emphasis on
a proper o-bento can be a time-consuming ritual. As with almost all displaying and admiring imported Chinese art objects. The Way
Japanese dishes, attention to detail and attractive presentation are of Tea gave rise to two of the more interesting aspects of Japanese
paramount. The most famous of the commercially made o-bento are cuisine: cha kaiseki. Japanese haute cuisine designed to be served
the ekiben, the box lunches available at most of the nation's train sta- as a light meal before a tea ceremony, and wagashi, traditional
tions. These vary greatly from one area of the country to another Japanese sweets which became an important accessory to the tea
and are considered to be an important way of promoting regional ceremony from the mid-16th century.
delicacies, customs, and crafts.


The Four Seasons
One of the most striking aspects of Japanese cuisine is the emphasis
on seasonal cuisine. Every food has its appropriate season. which not
only ensures that Japanese tastes are in harmony with nature but
that the cooks use the freshest possible ingredients.
By far the most important of seasonal dining specialties is osechi
ryori, the special foods that are served during the first week of the
new year. Dozens of items are decoratively arranged in tiered lacquer
boxes which are brought out again and again over the first few days
of the new year. Customs vary from home to home and region to
region, but the typical New Year foods usually include kamaboko fish
sausages bearing auspicious bamboo. plum, and pine designs; konbu
seaweed rolls tied into bows with dried gourd strips; chestnuts in a
sticky sweet-potato paste; herring roe, shredded carrot and white
radish in a sweet vinegared dressing; and pickled lotus root.
Vegetables such as shiitake mushrooms. radishes, lotus root,
carrots, and burdock are boiled in a soy sauce and dashi broth.
The savory steamed egg custard chawan-mushi is also often eaten.
The staple accompaniment for these dishes is o-machi, rice
cakes that can be grilled or boiled in a soup called a-zani. Machi-
game, a special type of glutinous rice, is prepared and molded into
a ball while still hot and placed in a large round wooden mortar
where it is pounded rhythmically. The final product is rolled out
flat and cut into rectangular cakes.
Cherry blossom-viewing parties are a seasonal must for the
majority of Japanese to signal the coming of spring. Top restau-
rants may serve a cup of cherry blossom tea with several delicate

92 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~__________________________________________________________________ _
I


The Japanese Kitchen and Table
Don't be misled into thinking that because the individual portions of
food that make a Japanese meal are small, you'll finish a Japanese
meal hungry. With the variety of tastes, textures and flavors,
you're certain to feel satisfied- physically and mentally-at the
end of a meal.
A Japanese meal can be divided into a beginning, a middle and
an end. The beginning includes appetizers, clear soups and
raw fish (sashimi). The middle of the meal is made up of a
number of seafood, meat, poultry and vegetable dishes
prepared by either grilling, steaming, simmering,
deep-frying or serving as a vinegared "salad." To
ensure variety, each style of preparation would be
used only once for the foods making up the middle of
the meal. For example, if the fish was deep-fried, the
vegetables might be simmered in seasoned stock,
the meat grilled and a mixture of egg and savory
tidbits steamed. Alternatively, this variety of
"middle" dishes might be replaced by a hot-pot
(nabe), a one-dish combination of vegetables,
seafood, meat, bean curd, and noodles. The meal con-
cludes with rice, miso soup and pickles, green tea and
fresh fruit-the basis of every main meal in Japan.
Accompanying dishes are varied according to
availability, season, how much time you have for
preparation of the meal and so on. The Japanese do not
categorize their food by the basic ingredient (for example,
vegetables, beef or fish), but by the method with which it is This beautifully presented meal shows the imaginative use of ceramics,
prepared. Food is thus classified as grilled, steamed, simmered, lacquer-ware, porcelain and basketware that is typically Japanese.
deep-fried or vinegared.
The two extremes of Japanese cuisine are a full kaiseki ryori, an the rice, soup, and pickles. It is better to serve three carefully cooked,
array of a dozen or more tiny portions of food, and the basic meal con- beautifully presented dishes than six less-than-perfect ones.
sisting of boiled rice, miso soup, and pickles. If you are new to Japanese In private homes and many restaurants, all the dishes making up
cuisine, keep the menu simple. You might like to prepare an appetizer the meal are presented at the same time. At a formal meal, the
and a couple of other dishes using fish, meat, poultry or vegetables appetizers arrive first, followed by the "middle" dishes, each served in
around the basic rice, soup, and pickles. You might even limit the meal the order dictated by their method of preparation.
to one simple appetizer and a one-pot dish such as sukiyaki, followed by The presentation of Japanese food is an art that encourages the
cook's imagination and creativity. Even the choice of tableware is
The formal tea ceremony, with its bitter powdered green tea, led to the influenced by the season and the type of food being served. Generally
creation of delicate wagashi sweets during the 16th century. speaking, foods which are round, such as pieces of rolled meat or
slices of lotus root, are presented on rectan-
gular or square plates, while square-shaped
foods are likely to be served on round plates
for contrast. Such imagination is shown in
Japan, however, that plates and bowls are
not just square, rectangular or round; they
might be hexagonal, semicircular, fan-
shaped or resemble a leaf or shell. And, it
has been said in Japan that "a person cannot
go out naked in public, neither can food." In
most cases, garnishes are edible.
The secret to preparing Japanese cuisine
at home is an understanding of the basic
ingredients and of how a meal is composed;
the culinary methods used are actually very
simple. But the most important requirement
of all is simply a love of good food, prepared
and presented with a sense of harmony.

SUGGESTED MENUS

A family meal (1) A family meal (2) A dinner party A melting pot menu

With Japanese meals many Another great menu for a family For a dinner party that will If you prefer a mix-and-match
small dishes are served, and dinner. delight your guests, you can't go menu, put together a meal that
often there is no "main" attrac- • Begin with individual bowls of wrong with dishes such as: features the following:
tion-they all are! But you do Savory Custard (page 95); • Shrimp-stuffed Mushrooms • Salmon Beancurd Balls
not necessarily have to follow • Miso Soup with Mushrooms (page 94), served with small (page 94) from Japan;
this practice. (page 96) and Shrimp with side dishes of Spinach with • Saffron Chicken (page 61)
Sake (page 102); Sesame Dressing (page 94) with Naan (page 55) from
For a family meal, you may like • Green Tea Ice Cream is always and Tempura Whitebait in India and a dish of Spicy
to serve the following: a favorite with which to Soup (page 96); Kang kung (page 132) from
• Rolled Sushi (page 98); finish (page 106). • Sukiyaki (page 104) or Shabu- Malaysia/Singapore;
Shabu (page 104) that diners
• Miso-Topped Bean Curd (page can cook as they eat; • Round off the meal with some
homely but delicious
100) and a small side dish of • the beautiful Lily Bulb Pineapple Tartlets (page
Green Beans with Sesame Dumplings (page 106) for 186) from Vietnam, served
(page 100) with rice; dessert are a refreshing and with sliced fresh fruit.
• Jellied Plums (page 106) are a unusual finish.
simple dessert to make but
look dramatic.








THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF JAPANESE COOKING

Dried bonito and lwnbu seaweed are essential for making the clear dashi that is used in much of Japanese cooking. Flavorful miso, with
bean cnrd and wakame or nori seaweed, makes a quick and easy soup. Popular flavorings are ginger, sal(e, and soy sauce. Mirin and
rice vinegar are added to rice for sushi. Sesame paste is used in dipping sauces.

94 1 THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ______________________________________________________ APPETIZERS
1


Bring a large pan of water Dip each sprig of watercress 2 teaspoons Japanese mustard
to a boil, add the spinach or parsley in tempura batter and I paste
leaves and cook until deep-fry until the batter is golden
the leaves soften and brown. Remove, drain and put Put the chopped salmon in a bowl.
darken in color. Pour beside the mushrooms. Garnish Soak the beancurd in water for
the spinach into a each serving with 1/2 tablespoon 1 to 2 minutes, drain in a cloth-
colander or sieve of the daikon. To prepare the lined sieve, then squeeze out
dipping sauce, combine the dashi, excess moisture by wrapping the
running water. sugar, and soy sauce, mixing beancurd in the cloth and twist-
Drain, pressing well, and divide among 4 bowls. ing tightly. Add this to the salmon.
on the spinach Separate the stalks from the
with the back mitsuba or parsley and chop
finely, keeping the whole leaves
Sake No Tsumire-age aside. Add 1 to 2 teaspoons of
Salmon Beancurd Balls the chopped stems to the
salmon and beancurd. then add
the spinach in This combination of delicately all other ingredients except oil
a bamboo rolling mat seasoned salmon and beancurd and accompaniments. Mix well
and roll up. tightly to squeeze makes a light and palate-pleas- and shape into small balls.
out all the moisture and shape ing dish. Deep-fry in hot oil, turning
into a roll. frequently, until golden brown
Toast the sesame seeds in 1/2 Ib (200 g) salmon fillet, and cooked. Drain and put in
a dry pan until golden brown, coarsely chopped individual serving baskets.
then crush in a mortar or 9-oz (280-g) block beancurd Spray the mitsuba or parsley
small blender until coarsely Handful of mitsuba leaves or leaves with a little water, then
blended. Add the soy sauce, parsley with stalks attached dip in additional cornstarch.
sugar, and dashi to form a 2 fresh shiitake mushrooms, Deep-fry in hot oil for a few
soft paste. Just before serving, stems discarded and caps seconds until the coating sets.
cut the rolled spinach into very finely shredded Garnish the salmon balls with
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) thick Il/4-in (3-cm) piece carrot, cut the fried mitsuba and accompany
divide among 4 small in matchsticks with side dishes, each containing
Top each with a 1 cloud-ear fungus, soaked until 1 tablespoon of soy sauce with
of the sesame paste swollen and very finely shredded 1/2 teaspoon of mustard.
sprinkle with the 1 egg, I ightly beaten
suremlea nori. 1/2 teaspoon salt HELPFUL HINT
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
The effect wi II be different, but
1 teaspoon sugar
firm-fleshed fish also works
5 teaspoons cornstarch well with this dish.
Urajiro Shiitake Oil for deep-frying
Spinach with Shrimp-stuffed Mushrooms
Sesame Dressing Accompaniments
3/4 Ib (400 g) fresh shrimp, 4 tablespoons light soy sauce
Japanese appetizers are usually peeled
served in small portions on 16 fresh shiitake mushrooms, Shrimp-stuffed Mushrooms (left) and Salmon Beancurd Balls (right)
patterned lacquer or ceramic stems discarded
ware. Many of the dishes here 3 tablespoons cornstarch
would make ideal first courses Oil for deep-frying
at a formal dinner or as 4 sprigs of watercress or parsley
canapes with drinks. 1/2 cup (125 mil tempura batter
(page 107)
2 tablespoons daikon (giant
white radish), very finely
Horenso Goma Ae grated and mixed with chili
Spinach with Sesame Dressing powder to taste
This is a very elegant dish. Serve Dipping Sauce
at room temperature at the start 1 cup (250 ml) basic dashi stock
of a meal. (page 107)
4 tablespoons sugar
10 oz (300 g) spinach, washed 4 tablespoons dark soy sauce
but left whole
5 tablespoons (50 g) white sesame Chop or process the shrimp to
seeds make a smooth paste. Press a little
5 teaspoons light soy sauce of the shrimp paste into each
2 teaspoons sugar mushroom, dust the top with a
4 teaspoons basic dashi stock little cornstarch. Deep-fry the
(page 107) mushrooms, a few at a time, in
1 tablespoon very finely shredded hot oil for 2 minutes. Drain and
toasted laver (non) divide among 4 serving plates.

APPETIZERS LI ________________________________________________________________ ~I JAPAN I 95



Blend the chicken in a food
Gyuniku No Tataki processor to make a paste, or
, Seared Beef grind a second time.
Add all other ingredi-
ents except poppy
1 Ib (500 g) beef sirloin or rump,
seeds and process until
in one piece
well mixed, or mix with
1 teaspoon salt
a wooden spoon.
2 medium-sized onions, about
Grease an S-in- (20-
6 1 /20Z (200 g) em) square baking pan
3 in (8 cm) daikon (giant white and line with baking paper
radish), shredded
or oiled foil. Put in the
4 ohba leaves or sprigs of
chicken mixture, spreading
watercress
evenly, then sprinkle with
4 teaspoons finely grated daikon the poppy seeds. Set in a pan
mixed with chili powder to taste half-filled with water and bake
1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion in a 350 0 P (ISO°C, gas mark
(spring onion)
4) oven for about 30 minutes,
1/4 cup (75 ml) ponzu sauce
until the center is firm.
(page 107)
Remove from oven and lift
out the baking paper or foil with
Sprinkle the beef with salt and the loaf on it. Cut the loaf into
sear in a very hot pan for a few rectangles or fan shapes. Serve
seconds on each side, just until at room temperature.
the color changes. Remove from
heat, plunge in iced water for Chicken Loaf
a few second to cool. Dry with
a cloth and cut in 1/4-in (ll2-cm) Chawan-mushi
slices. Savory Custard
Peel the onions, halve Tamago Dofu
lengthwise, then cut in thin 2 oz (60 g) chicken breast, in Cold Savory Custard Combine the eggs, basic dashi
crosswise slices. Break up the bite-sized pieces stock, soy sauce, and mirin.
slices with your fingers and put 2 teaspoons light soy sauce A refreshing summer appetizer. Pour through a strainer into a
in iced water. Rinse, drain and 1 1/20Z (50 g) baked eel (sold in small dish about 4 in(10 em)
dry the onion. vacuum packs), cut in 4 pieces 3 eggs square. Put this into a steamer
To serve, arrange the daikon 2/30Z (20 g) lily root, cleaned and 14 tablespoons (200 ml) basic and steam over boiling water for
in the center of a plate and cut in 4 pieces (optional) dashi stock (page 107) about 25 minutes, until it sets.
surround with the beef. Arrange 4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems 2 tablespoons light soy sauce Cool. then refrigerate.
the ohba or watercress in the discarded 1 teaspoon mirin Just before serving, cut
center, top with the onion, gar- 4 large shrimp, peeled and intestinal 4 medium-sized shrimp weighing the savory custard into 4
nish with scallion and surround veins removed about 3 oz (80g), cooked, squares and place each in small
with tiny balls of the grated 1 tablespoon mitsuba or parsley peeled and tails left on glass or china bowl. Place a
daikon and chili. Serve with tiny stalks, cut in 11/4-in (3-cm) 2 /3 cup (150 ml) soba dashi (2) shrimp on top of each serving,
dishes of ponzu sauce as a dip. lengths (page 107) pour in a little of the soba
8 ginkgo nuts, peeled, blanched Grated yuzu orange or lime or dashi and top of each serving
and thin skins removed lemon peel with grated peel and a shiso
flower sprig.
2 large eggs 4 sprigs of shiso flower
Tori No Matsukaze 3/4 cup (180 ml) basic dashi
Chicken Loaf stock (page 107)
3 teaspoons light soy sauce
Tiny poppy seeds scattered over Shredded yuzu orange or lemon
the top of this seasoned chicken peel to garnish
loaf are supposedly reminiscent
of sand on a beach, which is Sprinkle the chicken with soy
perhaps why the dish is known sauce. Assemble the eel. lily root,
as "Wind in the Pines." mushrooms, shrimp, mitsuba or
parsley stalks, and ginkgo nuts.
3/41b (400 g) ground chicken Break the eggs in a bowl and
2 eggs, lightly beaten mix gently with chopsticks to
3/4 in (2 cm) ginger, very finely avoid making bubbles. Add the
dashi stock and soy sauce. Mix
chopped
2 tablespoons red miso well and strain. Divide all the
2 teaspoons sake assembled ingredients among
4 individual china bowls or
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
cups with lids and pour in
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons all-purpose (plain) the egg mixture. Steam for
flour 10 minutes over medium heat.
1 tablespoon white poppy seeds Serve garnished with yuzu
orange or lemon peel.

96 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L _ _ _ _____________ ____ ____ ~I SOUPS & NOODLES


Soups in Japan are quite
different from Western-style Shirauo Fubuki Jitate
soups, and are usually lighter Tempura Whitebait in Soup
and clean-tasting-rather
like consomme. Use the The slight crunch of the tempura
freshest ingredients you whitebait gives added contrast
can get your hands on to the clear, clean soup.
and watch them shine!
1 egg yolk
Wakatake Sui 2 tablespoons tempura batter
(page 107)
Clear Bamboo Shoot Soup
1 1/20Z (50 g) fresh whitebait
2 tablespoons all-purpose
4 medium-sized shrimp, about
(plain) flour
3 oz (80 g), peeled and halved
Oi I for deep-frying
lengthwise
1 Ib (500 g) daikon (giant white
2 teaspoons cornstarch
radish)
3 cups (750 ml) clear soup
3 cups (750 ml) clear soup
(page 107)
(page 107)
1 oz (30 g) simmered bamboo
Salt to taste
shoots, sliced
Sprigs of mitsuba or parsley
2 1/20Z (80 g) wakame seaweed Tempura
Grated yuzu orange or lime or
Sprigs of kinome, watercress Tofu To Nameko No 8 medium-sized shrimp
lemon peel
or parsley Miso Shiru 1 heaped tablespoon flour
Mix the egg yolk with the Miso Soup with Mushrooms 4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems
Shake the shrimp and corn- tempura batter. Shake the white discarded and caps cross cut
starch in a plastic bag. then put fish and flour together in a Nameko mushrooms. attractive 4 shiso leaves
shrimp in a sieve and shake to plastic bag. then dip into the reddish-brown little fungi with a 2/3 cup (300 ml) tempura batter
dislodge excess cornstarch. batter and fry in hot oil until slippery texture. are excellent (page 107)
Blanch shrimp in boiling water crisp and golden. fresh. although the bottled or Oil for deep-frying
for about 20 seconds, until the Peel and grate the daikon. canned variety could be used in
cornstarch sets. Remove imme- place in a towel and squeeze this soup if fresh nameko are not Bring the water and salt to a
diately, plunge in iced water for out all the moisture. Bring the available boil and add the noodles. Boil
a few seconds. then set aside. clear soup to a boil and add the uncovered for 4 to 5 minutes,
Pour the clear soup in a pan, grated daikon. Season with 3 cups (750 ml) basic dashi stock until the noodles are cooked.
add the bamboo shoots, bring to salt to taste and add the (page 107) Drain. chill in iced water and
a boil. then add the shrimp and mitsuba or parsley. Divide 1/4 cup (60 g) inaka miso drain again.
the wakame. Return to a boil and among 4 lacquer soup bowls 1 oz (30 g) nameko mushrooms, Put the stock into a saucepan
immediately remove from the and add the fried fish just before rinsed and bring to a boil. Keep warm
heat. Divide the bamboo shoots. serving. topped with a little 5 oz (150 g) silken beancurd, while preparing the tempura.
wakame. and shrimp among 4 grated peel. finely diced To prepare the tempura,
lacquer bowls and pour over the 4 teaspoons very finely sliced peel the shrimp. discarding
soup. Garnish with the Idnome, scallion (spring onions) the head but leaving on the tail.
watercress or parsley and serve Split open down the back.
at the beginning of a meal. Put the dashi into a saucepan remove intestinal tract and
and bring to a boil. Add the miso. press the shrimp open gently
Clear Bamboo Shoot Soup stirring to dissolve. Put in the with the hand to make a
mushrooms and beancurd and butterfly shape. Dip the shrimp
heat, but do not allow to boil. Pour into flour. shake. dip into the
the soup into 4 lacquer soup batter and deep-fry until golden
bowls and sprinkle each portion brown and cooked. Drain.
with 1 teaspoon of scallion. Dip the shiitake mushrooms
and shiso leaves in batter and
deep-fry. Drain.
Put the cooked noodles back
Tempura Soba into the stock and reheat. Divide
Buckwheat Noodles the noodles among 4 bowls.
with Tempura Taste the stock and season
with salt if needed, then pour
12 cups (3 liters) water over the noodles. Top each
1 teaspoon salt portion of noodles with 2
9 oz (280 g) buckwheat shrimp. 1 mushroom, and
(soba) noodles 1 shiso leaf and garnish each
4 cups (1 liter) soba dashi stock with 1 teaspoon of scallion and
(1) (page 107) a little seven-spice powder.
4 teaspoons finely sliced scallion
(spring onion)
Seven-spice powder (shichimI1
to taste

SOUPS & NOODLES I L __________________________________________________ ~I JAPAN I 97



1 tablespoon finely chopped
Wanko Soba mitsuba or parsley leaves
Cold Buckwheat Noodles with 1/4 cup (60 ml) tempura batter
Assorted Toppings (page 107)
Oil for deep-frying

3/41b (400 g) dried buckwheat Prepare the simmered shiitake
(soba) noodles mushrooms first by soaking the
2 cups (600 ml) soba dashi
mushrooms in the water until
stock (2) (page 107)
soft. Drain and put the soaking
water into a saucepan and bring
Toppings to a boil. Add the mushrooms and
Simmered shiitake mushrooms sugar, return to a boil, skim the
(see below) surface and reduce the heat.
Tempura fritters (see below)
Cover and simmer gently for 40
4 teaspoons Japanese wasabe paste minutes. Add the soy sauce and
4 heaped tablespoons finely simmer for another 40 minutes.
shredded dried laver (nort) Cool. then shred finely.
2 eggs, lightly beaten, fried as an Boil the noodles in plenty of
omelet, shredded lightly salted water for 4 to 5
8 shiso leaves, shredded minutes, drain and chill in cold
2 scallions (spring onions), white
water. Drain again and refrigerate.
part only, finely shredded
Prepare the tempura fritters
lengthwise by combining all ingredients
11 /40Z (40 g) salmon or tuna, and deep-frying, a spoonful at a
flaked time, in hot oil until golden
2 tablespoons Japanese pickles brown. Drain and keep aside.
(optional)
At serving time, arrange small
handfuls (enough for two mouth-
Simmered Shiitake Mushrooms fuls) of the noodles in lacquer
Place each bundle of noodles 4 dried shiitake mushrooms
Banshu-mushi in a serving bowl. leaving half 2 cups (500 ml) water bowls. Put the remaining noodles
in a basket or dish and keep on
Fish with Noodles of the bundle hanging out. 11/2 teaspoons sugar the table. Pour a little of the stock
Top each bundle of noodles 11/2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
with a piece of red snapper over the small bowl of noodles
8 oz (250 g) red snapper fillet and fold back the noodles and add the preferred topping.
1/2 teaspoon salt Tempura Fritters When this is finished, add more
hanging out of the bowl so
4 oz (125 g) dried fine wheat as to enclose the fish. Cut off 2 OZ (50 g) burdock, peeled and noodles and stock to the bowl, add
noodles (somen) cut in matchsticks 11/4 in a different topping and continue
the end of the noodles tied with
4 oz (100 g) shimeji mushrooms (3 cm) long until the noodles are used up.
the thread and discard. Add the
1 heaped tablespoon very finely mushrooms to the bowl and 1/3 cup (50 g) sliced onion
grated daikon, mixed with chili return to the steamer. Cook
powder to taste over rapidly boiling water Buc/(wheat Noodles with Tempura
11/2 in (4 em) scallion (spring
for 5 minutes.
onion), very finely shredded
Remove the fish from the
lengthwise
steamer and pour over the
hot stock. Garnish each
Stock portion with 1/2 tablespoon
1 cup (250 ml) basic dashi stock of grated daikon shaped
(page 107) into a ball and sprinkle
21/2 tablespoons mirin
a little of the scallion
21/2 tablespoons light soy sauce
on top.
Sprinkle the fish with salt, cut
in 4 pieces and put on a plate. HELPFUL HINT
Cook in a steamer for 5 to 6 For crispy but not oily tempura
minutes, remove and set aside. make sure your oil is very hot
Heat all the stock ingredients before adding food, otherwise
together in a saucepan and it will absorb oil and give a
reserve. soggy finish. Drain on paper
Divide the noodles in towels before serving.
4 bundles and tie one end of
each bundle with cotton thread
to prevent the noodles from
separating during cooking.
Cook the noodles in plenty of
boiling water until just cooked,
then rinse under cold water and
drain, leaving the thread still
in position.

98 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI _________________________________________________ I SUSHI & SASHIMI



Sushi and sashimi, both of Place the tuna across the center
which feature the best the of the wasabi and start to roll
seas and oceans have to offer, using the bamboo mat. making
are now very popular in many sure the nori sheet end goes
countries. For these dishes, it under the rice. Roll the mat up
is imperative that you buy the firmly and squeeze gently.
freshest fish possible, nothing Remove the rolled sushi from
less will do. the mat. cut in half and then into
three pieces with a wet knife.
Repeat the process with a filling
of cucumber and again with a
Hosomaki filling of pickled radish. Serve
Rolled Sushi garnished with pickled ginger.

Three different fillings are used
in these nori-wrapped rolls of
vinegared rice: tuna. cucumber. Chirashi-zushi
and pickled giant white radish. Sushi Rice with Topping
the last available in jars in
Japanese stores. The tiny dried fish called for are
sold in packets; they are actually
4 S x 7-in (20 x lS-cm) sheets dried and cooked silver fish.
toasted dried laver (non)
11/2 cups (600 g) vinegared rice 21/2 cups (1 kg) cooked vinegared
(page 107) rice (page 107)
6 oz (160 g) fresh tuna 1 tablespoon tiny dried fish
6 oz (160 g) cucumber (optional, see below)
6 oz (160 g) pickled daikon (giant 4 tablespoons finely shredded Mixed Rolled Sushi
white radish) strips toasted laver (non)
1 teaspoon Japanese wasabi paste 4 eggs, lightly beaten and fried as
2 tablespoons (20 g) pickled ginger an omelet and shredded Mix the sushi rice with dried fish 10 oz (300 g) mackerel fillets
slices 4 medium-sized cooked shrimp, (thread-like dried and cooked 3/4 cup (200 g) salt
halved and opened butterfly silver fish sold in packets). Put Large sheet or 2 sheets golden
Cut the raw tuna in 4 strips of style the mixture in 4 lacquer bowls kelp (shiraita konbu)
the same length as the nori. Cut 3 oz (SO g) raw tuna, cut in strips or wooden boxes and level the 14 tablespoons (200 ml) rice
the cucumber in quarters 2 oz (60 g) squid, blanched and surface. Scatter with seaweed vinegar
lengthwise. remove the seeds cut in strips and omelet and place all other 3/4 cup (300 g) vinegared rice
and cut into sticks. Cut the nori 2/30Z (20 g) grilled eel (available ingredients decoratively on top. (page 107)
in half. Place the half nori sheet canned or in vacuum packs) 1 teaspoon white sesame seeds
on a bamboo rolling mat. with 1/3 cup (40 g) shrimp flakes HELPFUL HINT 4 tablespoons light soy sauce
the shiny side down. Top the nori 4 tablespoons pickled ginger The trick to making sushi rol ls is 4 tablespoons pickled ginger
with 1/2 cup (200 g) of the sushi slices to have all the ingredients cut up slices
rice. spread evenly on the sheet 4 teaspoons I ight soy sauce and ready to go. These can be
leaving a border of 1/2 in (1 cm) 4 teaspoons Japanese wasabi prepared ahead of t ime and Sprinkle the mackerel fillets
free on the inside of the sheet. paste refrigerated in airtight containers. lightly with salt and refrigerate
Take a little wasabi paste for 11/2 hours. Rinse and pat
on your finger and spread it dry. Soak the golden kelp in
across the rice in the center. water to cover until soft and
transparent. Remove any small
Rolled Sushi
bones from the mackerel. Place
vinegar in a glass or ceramic
dish. add the mackerel fillets
ta konbu. very fine and refrigerate for 40 minutes.
-colored kelp. Cut the skin from fish.
used to cover Wet a cotton cloth. wring it
dry. then place it on a bamboo
sushi rolling mat. Put the skin across
can be pressed the cloth and spread the rice
into a rectangular evenly over the skin. Top with a
container if you lil(e. fillet of fish, sprinkle with sesame
Place the skin on the seeds and cover the top with the
bottom and layer it with golden kelp. Start to roll up.
rice. fish, sesame seeds and helping to shape the contents
golden kelp. Cover and put into a smooth. even roll.
on a weight to compress the Unroll. cut in 3/4-in (2-cm)
sushi. slices and serve with soy sauce
Leave to stand for 15 minutes and pickled ginger.
before cutting.

SUSHI & SASHIMI I L ____________________________________________________ ~I JAPANI 99


about 30 minutes or until almost 4 large shrimp
Norimaki dry. (This can be kept refrigerated 1/4 Ib (125 g) scallops
for up to 1 week.)
Mixed Rolled Sushi 1/2 teaspoon oil
Cut the eel. shrimp, cucumber, 5 oz (150 g) halfbeak fillet or tuna
and omelet into sticks of the same 10 oz (300 g) snapper fillet
1 1/40Z (40 g) grilled eel (available length. Place the nori on a 1/4 cup (30 g) shredded daikon
canned or in vacuum packs) bamboo rolling mat and spread (giant white radish)
2 oz (40 g) cooked shrimp, peeled half the sushi rice on the nori, 4 shiso leaves
2 oz (60 g) cucumber
leaving the upper and bottom 4 teaspoons Japanese wasabi
1/4 cup (30 g) shrimp flakes
border free by 1/2 in (1 cm). paste
(see below)
Sprinkle the rice with half the 4 tablespoons tosa soy sauce
2 eggs, beaten and fried as an
shrimp flakes. Arrange half the (page 107)
omelet
ingredients side by side in a row
2 sheets of toasted dried laver on the rice. Start to roll using the Peel the shrimp, remove the
(non) bamboo mat, making sure the dark intestinal vein but leave
1 cup (400 g) vinegared rice
nori sheet end goes under the on the head and tail for a more
(page 107)
rice. Roll the mat up firmly and attractive appearance. Clean
4 tablespoons pickled ginger slices
squeeze gently. Remove the rolled and dry the scallops. Heat the
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
sushi from the mat, cut in half oil in a non-stick pan until
and then into 3/4-in (2-cm) slices moderately hot and sear the
Shrimp Flakes with a wet knife. Repeat the scallops for 30 seconds on each
5 oz (150 g) small shrimp,
process with remaining filling. side. Remove and set aside.
peeled and deveined
Serve garnished with pickled Scale the fish and remove any
1 egg yolk
ginger and soy sauce for small bones. Cut the halfbeak
21/2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar
dipping. fillet on the diagonal into strips
1/4 teaspoon sa It
about 1/2 in (1 cm) wide and
Red food colori ng
HELPFUL HINT 11/4 in (2 1 /2 cm) long. If using
Prepare the shrimp flakes first by Packets or jars of prepared tuna, cut into 3/4 -in (2-cm) Assorted Sashimi
cubes. The snapper can either
rinsing the shrimp in lightly salted shrimp flakes are often available be sliced paper thin or cut to
water. Drain and then simmer in Japanese grocery stores. resemble a leaf (see photo). Cured salmon, 1 teaspoon per rice
in a little salted water until they ball
Serve the shrimp, scallops, and
change color. Drain, cool and cut fish arranged decoratively Dried bonito flakes mixed with a
blend in a food processor to on a rectangular plate. Garnish little light soy sauce, 1 heaped
make a puree. Tie the shrimp in Tsukuri Moriawase with daikon, shiso leaf, and teaspoon per rice ball
cheesecloth and leave to soak in Assorted Sashimi wasabi, and serve with bowls of Strips of salted dried kelp
water for 1 to 2 minutes to remove tosa soy sauce for dipping. (shiokobu) , 1 heaped teaspoon
any smell. Drain the shrimp and A wide variety of seafood is per rice ball
knead the cheesecloth gently to enjoyed raw as sashimi, cut in
extract all the moisture. different ways depending upon HELPFUL HINT Wash the rice gently under
Put the shrimp in a bowl and the texture of each particular You may decide to serve just running water until the water
add egg yolk. sugar, and salt, ingredient. Sashimi is served one or two types of fish, or a runs clear. Leave to drain for
mixing well. Add just a touch of with a variety of garnishes, range of several, but whatever 1 hour, then put into a saucepan
food coloring diluted in water to condiments and dipping sauces, variety you choose, be absolutely with the water and bring to a
certain that the fish is spanking
make the shrimp a pale pink. some sauces being considered fresh. boil over high heat. Reduce the
Put the shrimp into a non-stick more appropriate to certain heat and simmer gently for
pan and cook over low heat, types of seafood than others. 15 to 20 minutes until the
stirring from time to time, for rice is cooked and the water
absorbed. Remove from the
Onigiri heat, cover the rice with a towel
Rice Balls to absorb any moisture and put
back the lid. Leave to stand for
20 minutes.
These hearty triangular rice
balls make ideal snacks or a To prepare the rice balls,
light lunch, and the choice of sprinkle a little salt onto the
palm of one hand and take a
the filling is up to you. Leave the handful (about 1/2 cup of rice).
nori off until you are ready to Flatten it to make a depression
serve. The amounts given here
should make 12-l3 rice balls. in the center and put in a little
of your chosen filling. Mold
the rice to enclose the filling
5 1/3 cups (1 kg) short-grain rice
and shape into a triangle.
Salt to taste Wrap with a piece of nori
3-4 sheets of toasted laver (non), and moisten the end to seal.
cut in strips about 5 x 2 in
Set aside while pretJaring the
(12 x 5 em)
remaining rice balls. Serve at
room temperature.
Filling
Sour plums (umeboshi), 1/2 teaspoon
per rice ball