Food of Asia

150 I THE FOOD 0 F AS I A


Meanwhile. grind the mustard Pierce the beef all over with a
with a little vinegar to a paste. fork or skewer and marinate
Stir the mustard paste into the in vinegar. salt and pepper for
thick coconut milk and. when 2 to 4 hours.
the mango is tender. add the Heat the ghee or oil very hot
mustard and thick coconut milk. and sear the beef until lightly
and the sugar. to the curry. brown on all sides. This seals
Bring to a boil. reduce the the meat and helps to retain
heat. and simmer for about the juices. Remove the meat
5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. from the pan and set aside.
The gravy should be thiclc To the same pan add the
enough to thoroughly coat curry leaves. pandanus leaf.
the mango. lemongrass. Bombay onions.
and green chilies. Fry until half
cooked. about 3 minutes. Add
the chili powder and mix well.
Beef Smore Return the beef to the pan and
add the coconut mille Stir well
A dish of Dutch origin. beef smore and simmer until the coconut
appears in various guises through- milk reduces into a thick gravy
out the region. wherever the Dutch and the meat is done to your
maintained a presence. In Sri liking. about 25- 35 minutes.
Lanka. beef smore is a real Remove from the heat. slice
treat-a whole beef filet or loin the meat into the desired thick-
which is slowly simmered in a ness. and pour the gravy over Salt and pepper to taste
spicy coconut milk gravy and the slices. 1 teaspoon ground white pepper Seer Fish Lemon Stew
then sliced and served in its own 5 tablespoons vegetable oil
gravy. Eat with rice or breads of 3 Bombay or large red onions.
your choice. 1 chopped and 2 sliced into rings
Thora Malu Istuwa 2 in (6 cm) pandanus leaf
1 Ib (500 g) whole beef filet or loin Seer Fish Lemon Stew (rampe), sliced Balaya Ambulthiyal
2 tablespoons distilled vinegar 2 sprigs curry leaves Sour Claypot Fish
Salt and pepper to taste Seer. or Spanish mackerel. is 4 cloves garlic. finely chopped
2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil arguably Sri Lanka's tastiest 2 green chilies. finely sliced The southwestern coastal town
for sauteing fish. Certainly it is one of the 4 pods cardamom. crushed of Ambalangoda first made this
2 sprigs curry leaves most popular with visitors. 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds dish famous. A classic example
2 in (5 cm) pandanus leaf (rampe). many of whom are accustomed 1 in (2 1/2 cm) lemongrass, finely of claypot cookery, the tamarind
sliced to seeing it listed on the menu sliced both imparts its characteristic
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) lemongrass, finely as pan-fried. There are, however. 2 teaspoons coriander powder sharp taste and also acts as
sliced many other ways to bring out 1 teaspoon cumin powder a preservative. Even in Sri
1 shallot or Bombay onion, sliced its delicious flavors. such as in 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder Lanka's heat and humidity.
3 green chilies, deseeded and finely this delicate stew recipe. 1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk an ambulthiyal can keep
sliced Juice of 1 lemon for up to a week. Serve with
1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1 Ib (500 g) Spanish mackerel plain rice.
Season the fish filets with salt
1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk (seer) filets (substitute with
and pepper. Heat the oil until 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp soaked
kingfish or cod)
hot in a large saute pan and in 4 tablespoons water
Beef Smore sear the filets to firm the flesh. 1 Ib (500 g) tuna or other firm
then set aside. fish
Reheat the oil and add the Juice of 1 lime
chopped onion (not the onion 4 teaspoons chili powder
rings), pandanus leaf. curry 1 teaspoon ground pepper
leaves. garlic, green chilies, Salt to taste
cardamom pods, fenugreek, 1/2 cup (125 ml) water
and lemongrass. Saute over 6 cloves
medium heat until fragrant. 1 slice of ginger
Add the coriander, cumin, 5 cloves of garlic
and turmeric, and saute until 1 sprig curry leaves
the oils are released and their
aroma is strong. Add the Soak the tamarind pulp in
coconut milk and bring to a 4 tablespoons water. stir and
boil. Lower the heat and add the strain, discarding any solids.
onion rings and the fish filets. Cut the fish into eight pieces,
Simmer until the onion rings wash them well with the lime
and fish filets are tender. about juice and arrange the pieces
15 minutes. Remove from heat. in a single layer in a pan.
Cool slightly and add lemon Blend the tamarind water.
juice to taste. chili powder, pepper, salt. and
a little water to a paste. Mix this

MAIN DISHES L! __________________________________________________________ ~! SRI LANKA ! 151


paste with the fish in the pan, 2 teaspoons crushed black pepper
coating each piece thoroughly. 1 2-3 cloves
Add the cloves, ginger, garlic, 1 in (2 1/2 cm) cinnamon stick
curry leaves, and the water, and
bring to a boil. Simmer until all Heat the oil in a pan and saute
the gravy has reduced and the the onions, garlic, ginger, and
fish pieces are quite dry, about lemongrass until the onions
15 minutes. Spicy Lamb Curry (above) and
are golden brown.
Add all the remaining Pork Curry (below)
ingredients. and bring to a boil.
Elumas Curry Reduce the heat and simmer in
an uncovered pot until the
Spicy Lamb Curry gravy is thick and the pork ten-
der. about 25 minutes.
2 tablespoons oil
3 1/2 oz (100 g) onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
Crab Curry
1 oz (25 g) chopped ginger
2 green chilies, chopped
4 in (10 cm) lemongrass
Sri Lankan crab is famous
1 in (2 1 /2 cm) cinnamon stick
throughout the region and
2-3 cardamom pods, crushed
rightly so. Fresh crabs. so plentiful
1 Ib (500 g) lamb, cubed
in the seas here. are simmered to
6 teaspoons Roasted Curry Powder perfection in a spiced coconut
(page 148) curry gravy. Delicious!
3 teaspoons chili powder
Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C,
2 teaspoons turmeric powder 4 large crabs Bibikkan gas mark 3). Dissolve the jaggery
2 teaspoons ground pepper 3 1/20Z (100 g) red onion, sliced Mixed Spice Coconut Slices (or brown sugar) and caster
2 large tomatoes, chopped 2 green chilies, chopped sugar in the coconut milk. Place
3/4 cup (200 mil thick coconut 3 1 /2 tablespoons Roasted Curry This dessert h~ils from the this liquid into a pan. add the
milk Powder (page 148) kitchens of the Portuguese salt and bring to a boil. Add the
Salt to taste 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
colonial era. coconut pulp and cook until
1/2 teaspoon chili powder mixture is sticky but not burnt.
Saute the onions, garlic, ginger, 1 teaspoon fenugreek Remove from the heat and
green chilies, lemongrass, 2 teaspoons tamarind pulp 2 Ib (1 kg) grated fresh coconut slowly stir in the flour. mixing
cinnamon, and cardamoms in soaked in 2 tablespoons water, 11/2 cups (375 mil coconut milk well. Stir in the cashews and
oil until the onions are golden stirred and strained 2 Ib (1 kg) jaggery or dark brown mixed spices. Add the lemon
brown. 1 sprig curry leaves sugar rind and pour into a 9 in x 12 in
Add the lamb and stir well to 2 cups (500 mil water 1 Ib (500 g) caster sugar (221/2 cm x 30 cm) pan. Bake
coat, then add the curry, chili, 4 cups (1 liter) thick coconut milk 3 1 /2 OZ (100 g) all-purpose (plain) until done. about 30 minutes.
and tumeric powders, the pep- 1/2 teaspoon mustard powder flour The cake will be done when a
per. and the tomatoes. Cook on Juice of 1 lime 7 oz (200 g) cashew nuts, chopped toothpick pushed into the center
medium heat until the meat Salt and pepper to taste 2 teaspoons mixed cloves, has no batter sticking to it as it is
becomes tender. about 40 min- cardamom, and cinnamon powder withdrawn. Cool and
utes. Add the thick coconut Clean the crabs, divide each into 1/2 teaspoon sa It cut into slices.
milk. bring to a boil and simmer 4 portions, and place in a large 2 teaspoons grated
a few minutes longer. adjust the pan. Add all the other ingredients lemon rind Crab Curry
seasoning. and serve. except the coconut mille, mustard
powder. lime juice, and salt.
Bring to a boil then add the
coconut mille. return the mixture
Urumas Curry to simmering point, and simmer
Pork Curry gently for 20 minutes. Add the
lime juice. mustard powder.
2 tablespoons oil and salt. and stir for a few
3 1 /20Z (100 g) onion, chopped minutes until flavors
1 oz (25 g) garlic, chopped are married.
1 oz (25 g) ginger, chopped Remove from
1/30Z (10 g) lemongrass, the heat and
chopped serve hot.
1 Ib (500 g) pork, cubed
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp
soaked in 2 tablespoons water,
stirred and strained
13/4 cups (400 mil water
2 sprigs curry leaves
4 teaspoons Roasted Curry
Powder (page 148)

'The secrets of classic
Thai cooking have
been liked to culinary
treasures. "

________________________________________________________________________ ~I THAILAND I 153





















From the Kingdom of Sukhothai comes a cuisine that
balances the sweet and the sour with the hot and the salty.




























Left: Floating markets,
where everything you
might need is piled onto a
boat and paddled along
rivers and canals.
Right: A woman winnow-
ing wheat.


The Thais have a saying, gan gin gan yu--as you religiOUS buildings. From afar, these suggest a
eat, so you are, which perfectly encapsulates solid, seamless pattern; only on closer inspection
their approach to food. Whether Thai cuisine are the separate components revealed, and the
comes about because of the fresh ingredients skillful way they have been put together. So, too, in
used, or the meticulous act of preparation, or Thai cuisine, a wide variety of elements has been
the seasoning or garnishing is immaterial; Thai brought together and artfully composed into some-
food has an elegance and refinement that is all thing that is intrinsically quite special.
its own. The only country in Southeast Asia to
remain independent during the era of coloniza-
tion, Thailand's blends of hot and sweet, sour The Land and its People
and salty are different from the dishes of its A stone tablet credited to King Ramkhamhaeng of
neighbors, even though they may use some of Sukhothai, the first independent Thai kingdom
the same ingredients: chili, garlic, lemongrass, founded in the early 13th century, bears the cou-
fish sauce, palm sugar, and lime. plet: "In the water there are fish, in the fields there
is rice." This testifies to a natural abundance that
was to sustain a series of capital cities along the
It is easy to see an analogy between the various length of the fertile Chao Phraya River valley and,
aspects of Thai culture, including its cuisine. One more specifically, to the two mainstays of the Thai
of the most notable characteristics of Thai decora- diet then and now. Rice culture came with the ear-
tive art, for instance, is its passion for intricate liest settlers, long before the Thais themselves
detail, particularly apparent in complex mosaics of arrived on the scene, and led to a vast complex of
colored glass and porcelain that adorn so many paddy fields watered by an intricate system of

154 I THE FOOD OF ASIA I ~ ______________________________________________________________ __


canals, rivers and reservoirs. Fish were plentiful. not only in the Happiness"), and though its power lasted less than two centuries, its
waterways, but also in the seas. influence proved far more enduring. Under King Ramkhamhaeng,
Other ingredients were gradually added over the centuries from a the Thai alphabet was devised, works of Buddhist art were created
wide variety of cultures: from China and India, from Persia (modern- and a truly indigenous Thai culture emerged.
day Iran) and Portugal. Even such a seemingly essential element as Ayuthia, the next capital. began in 1350 as a small city-state on
, the pungent chili was, in fact, from South America. However these the Chao Phraya River and over the next 400 years became one of
ingredients came, though, they were subtly modified and refined into the most cosmopolitan cities in Southeast Asia. In this period, first
a cuisine that is today distinctively Thai. contact was made with Europe and an active trade established with
Like its cuisine, Thailand encompasses a wide range of topogra- other Asian countries. Ayuthia fell to an invading Burmese army in
phy that covers some 198,500 square miles over some 73 provinces 1767. King Rama I founded the present Chakri Dynasty in 1782 and
(changwat). To the north is a complex system of forested mountain moved the capital across the Chao Phraya to what is now Bangkok.
ranges divided by the fertile Ping, Yom, Wang, and Nan river valleys. Bangkok prospered and the Chinese immigrants and Western
The northeast consists of a sparsely vegetated, semi-arid plateau that traders who were drawn in large numbers to it helped bring diversi-
stretches to the Mekong River. The flat central plains, watered by the ty to the new city. By the end of the 19th century, Bangkok was well
Chao Phraya River, form on its way to becoming
one of the richest rice- a modern, Western-
growing regions on style city-at least in
earth. The colorful appearance.
checkerboard of paddy
fields, orchards and
vegetable gardens that The Making of a
makes up these plains Cuisine
sustains the greater part Little is known about
of the country's agricul- the cooking of
tural and industrial Sukhothai, but rice and
growth. The mountain- fish were no doubt
ous southern isthmus, major ingredients.
extending down to the Fruits were plentiful.
border with Malaysia, is as were mushrooms
bordered on one side by that grew wild in the
the Gulf of Thailand and forests and a variety of
on the other by the vegetables. One item
Indian Ocean. not present, however,
The Thais are an was the chili. which
agricultural people. Even was either brought
today, despite the growth directly by the
of urban areas, the great Portuguese, who
majority of the population opened relations in
can be found in villages; 1511, or came via
most villagers still derive Malacca or India.
their living from agricul- Simon de la Loubere,
ture. The tropical climate who came with a
allows year-round culti- Chilies pinned out in the sun to dry. French diplomatic
vation of rice, fruits and mission in 1687,
vegetables. There are three distinguishable seasons: wet (June to was struck by the fact that the people ate sparingly. Good salt was
October), cool (November to February), and hot (March to May). rare, and despite its abundance, fresh fish was seldom eaten. Jesuit
Evidence of settlers dates back to the Paleolithic age some missionary Nicolas Gervaise noted that kapi, the popular fermented
500,000 years ago. The most extensive prehistoric remains come shrimp paste, "has such a pungent smell that it nauseates anyone
from the northeast, where a remarkable culture flourished from not accustomed to it," and gives perhaps the first general recipe
around 4000 Be. to just after the start of the Christian era. Indian for a typical Thai condiment based on it: "salt, pepper, ginger,
traders later established ports along the southern peninsula, bringing cinnamon, cloves, garlic, white onions, nutmeg, and several strongly
not only Buddhism but numerous cultural and culinary influences. flavored herbs ... mixed in considerable quantities with this
Mon settlers arrived around the same time in the Chao Phraya shrimp paste."
valley and founded the Dvaravati kingdom, to be replaced eventually The complex seasonings that we now regard as typical of Thai
by the Khmers. cuisine, including chilies, were certainly well established by the
Between the 7th and 11 th centuries, the ethnic Thais, originat- Rattanakosin, or Bangkok, period. Sir John Bowring regarded the
ing as a minority group from the northern parts of Burma and essential sauce nam prik as "one of the most appetite-exciting
southern China, gradually migrated southward in search of greater condiments. "
independence and fertile land. By the 13th century, the Thais had Alongside the development of this individual cuisine was a more
established themselves in such numbers that they were eventually refined one that prevailed in royal and aristocratic households,
able to overthrow their Khmer overlords and establish a kingdom "Palace cooking," which focused on subtlety and visual appeal.
of their own.
This kingdom was called Sukhothai (Sanskrit for "Dawn of

______________________________________ ~--------------------------------~I THAILAND 1155


The Food of the People dishes. Thousands of boats fish the surrounding waters from villages
Thai food today may be plain or fancy: a dish can be prepared in a along the coastlines on the Gulf of Thailand and the Indian Ocean,
few minutes over a charcoal brazier or require hours of chopping, bringing back seafood for local consumption and profitable export.
grinding and carving. It may vary considerably from region to The south is home to most of Thailand's two million Muslims, its
region. Always, though, it remains a singular creation, not quite like largest religious minority. In other southern places like Songkhla and
any of the influences that have shaped it over the centuries. the island of Phuket, the Chinese predominate. Southern food
In the mountainous north, where borders are shared with reflects the cross-pollination. Seafood may be prepared simply, grilled
Burma and Laos, the cuisine is as distinctive as the handicrafts for or steamed; or baked in a claypot with thin noodles and garlic; or
which the region is noted. Here, the earliest Thais settled on their included as the main component of tom yam, the ubiquitous Thai
migration southward from China, forming first a group of small soup laced with lemon grass and chilies. In general, southerners like
city-states and then a loose federation known as Lanna, with their food chili-hot, and are fond of the bitter taste of a flat, native
Chiang Mai as the principal city. bean called sataw, which other Thais tend to find less appealing.
The north has retained much of its native culture: its language, Small, juicy pineapples are a popular end to a meal.
crafts, customs, and food. Instead of the soft-boiled rice of the central Contributions from other cultures include gaeng mussaman, an
region, northerners prefer a steamed glutinous variety, rolled into Indian-style curry of chicken or beef perfumed with cardamom,
small balls and dipped into liquid dishes. Curries of the region tend to cloves and cinnamon; Malay fish curries; and Indonesian satay.
be thinner, without the coconut mill( widely used in central and south- The central plains is the Thai heartland. Here, you'll find the
ern cooking. There is also a distinctive local version of nam prik ong, a best jasmine rice, pearly white and fragrant, and mangoes, durians,
basic dipping sauce served with raw vegetables and crispy pork skin, as mangosteens, rambutans, guavas, papayas and pomelos, even grapes.
well as a pork sausage called naem, eaten plain with rice or mixed into Vegetables such as cabbage, mushrooms, water convolvulus (water
various dishes. When it is in season, the favorite local fruit is the succu- spinach), cucumber, tomatoes, and pumpkins, as well as more recent
lent longan, which grows in almost every compound. introductions like asparagus and baby corn, are grown in vast quantities.
The influence of neighboring Burma and Laos is apparent in Food in the villages amid the fields tends to be plain: rice with
many northern dishes. The former for the popular khao soi, a curry stir-fried vegetables, fish from a nearby canal or river, perhaps some
broth with egg noodles and chicken, pork or beef, and gaeng hang lay, minced chicken with garlic, chilies, and basil and a salad of salted
a pork curry seasoned with ginger, tamarind, and turmeric; the eggs, chilies, and scallion with a squeeze of lime.
latter for nam prik noom, a sauce with a strong chili-lime flavor, and In Bangkok, everything is available, even the most exotic regional
ook gai, a red chicken curry with lemongrass. delicacies, if you know where to look. The city streets are punctuated
Northeastern Thailand was long regarded as remote from the with the many fast foods based on Chinese noodles, prepared at a
cosmopolitan world of Bangkok-not so much because of geography as moment's notice at any sidewalk cafe or by vendors who push their
a perceptible social prejudice on the part of city dwellers. Isan, as Thais carts along residential streets. Tasty, nourishing, occasionally even
call the northeast, was the poorest of the country's four main regions; distinguished, these quick meals epitomize the busy life of Bangkok
its infertile soil and devastating droughts frequently drove farmers to the and also the Thai capacity for making something special out of simple
capital in search of work. The people of Isan have a defmite skill for ingredients. Such is its popularity that Thai street food has evolved
transforming food in ways that show both imagination and ingenuity. into a distinctive culinary category all its own, generally characterized
Barbecued chicken (gai yang) is grilled with lashings of peppery by speed of preparation and easy portability of equipment.
sauce and garlic, while catfish is the base of a delectable curry and laab
dip is made with raw meat and ground roasted rice. Some of the region's
delicacies are unique: grubworms, grasshoppers, ant eggs, snail curry,
and fermented fish of exceptional pungency. Increasingly, the less
challenging dishes typical of the region have won widespread
admiration, and some diners are known to look upon a properly
prepared som tam (spicy green papaya salad) or laab (even spicier minced
pork or chicken) as being the true marks of a superior Thai cook.
Perhaps because chilies add such character to the most
mundane dish, northeasterners tend to use them with
greater abandon than Thais of other areas.
Much northeastern cooking reflects the
influence of Laos just across the Mekong River-
not surprising, since many residents are ethni-
cally Lao. Dill (pak chee Lao or "Laotian corian-
der") is widely used as a garnish, and glutinous
rice is preferred. Also of Lao origin and popular
on festive occasions is khan om buang, a crispy
crepe stuffed with dried shrimp, bean sprouts
and other ingredients.
Southern Thailand, by contrast, is nurtured
by rain that falls for eight months of the year.
Cultivated areas tend to be vast rubber and coconut
plantations rather than the rice fields and fruit
orchards of the central plains. Coconuts growing
plentifully everywhere provide milk for thickening soups and
curries, oil for frying and grated flesh as a condiment for many

156 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI __________________________________________________________________ _



Palace Cooking try to use only the freshest ingredients. Taste as you go along, and
Dr Malcolm Smith, who served as physician to some members of the aim to balance the flavors and textures within the dish and between
Thai royal family in the early years of this century, describes the the compilation of dishes to be served.
innermost part of Bangkok's mile-square Grand Palace known as the Rice is the mainstay of Thai meals, mostly steamed long-grain
"Inside," where the women of the court lived, thus: 'i\. town com- jasmine rice, a nod to the traditions and ritual of its cultivation. All
plete in itself, a congested network of houses and narrow streets, other dishes-salads, curries, soups- are called gap kao, to be served
with gardens, lawns, artificial lakes, and shops. It had its own gov- with rice; they are mere condiments. There is no set progression of
ernment, its own institutions, its own laws and law-courts. It was a dishes; all main course dishes are served at once. When cooking for a
town of women, controlled by women." gathering of four, rather than increase the quantity of a single dish,
At its peak, during the reign of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn), do as the Thais do and increase the variety of dishes: perhaps a soup.
the "Inside" had a population estimated at nearly 3000, a select few a curry, a salad, a steamed dish, and a selection of relishes. Diners
of them bearing the exalted rank of Queen but the great majority are free to help themselves, in any order they want, mixing dishes at
ladies-in-waiting and lower attendants. The inner palace can be will and seasoning them with a wide variety of condiments to
viewed as a kind of ultra-exclusive finishing school where the most achieve the desired taste.
refined aristocratic skills were perfected and passed on. The ideal Thai meal is a harmonious blend of the spicy, sweet, hot.
The royal women learned how to prepare various foods that were wet, mild, crisp, sour, and soft, and is meant to be satisfying to the eye,
not merely more subtle nose, and palate.
in flavor than their Complex dishes are
outside versions, but accompanied by simpler :
highly memorable in ones: the richness of
visual appeal. The this dish may be cut by i
most visible of palace the piquancy of that, '
skills was the art of the saltiness of this I
fruit and vegetable recipe is a perfect foil for ~
carving, garnishes and another. As a result the ~
delicacies that some- palate is not over-
times required as long whelmed; there is give
to prepare as the dishes and take. The Thais call
that they adorned. this harmonious layer-
The hallmarks of ing of flavor upon flavor
so-called "palace rot chart-the heart and
food"-which was, in soul of true Thai
fact, to be found in cuisine.
most aristocratic Many Thai desserts
homes as well-were are based on glutinOUS
painstaking hours of rice, coconut milk,
preparation and a palm sugar, pandan
highly refined style of leaf, and agar-agar,
presentation. Poi thong, but the most common
for instance, is a blend dessert is one or more
of egg yoll(s and sugar of the abundant fresh
transformed into a nest fruits, usually brought
of silky golden threads, out after the other
while look choop are dishes have been
tiny imitation fruits removed. On special
shaped by hand from a Kantoke, a meal taken while seated at a low round table, is a traditional way of dining in occasions, more elabo-
mixture of sweet bean the north of Thailand. rate desserts such as foi
paste and coconut thong (golden threads)
mill(, tinted to exactly match their real-life models. or banana-leaf cups of takaw, a confection of tapioca starch, sugar
When royal polygamy ended under King Rama VI, the ladies of and coconut that comes in a wide variety of forms, may be served.
the "Inside" and their numerous attendants gradually left their Snacks are so popular in Thailand they deserve special mention.
protected existence. Fortunately, palace cooking did not vanish with They may consist of nothing more than freshly sliced fruit sprinkled
the hidden world but survived through the descendants of the royal with salt, sugar, dried chilies or a combination of these seasonings.
women. In recent years, it has been discovered by a wider public Or they may be a selection of traditional sweets. Some vendors
through several restaurants that take pride in their re-creations of offer noodle creations. To produce the universally popular kwayteow.
this unique cuisine. a bowl of freshly cooked rice noodles is given a few ladles of meat
stock, topped with cooked pork or chicken, and sprinkled with
sugar, crushed peanuts, and dried chili flakes. For pad thai, noodles
The Thai Kitchen and Table are quickly stir-fried with garlic, scallions, salted dried shrimp,
The hospitality and generosity of the shared Thai table is easily and a variety of spices. Whether eaten in a restaurant, on a city
achieved in the home. In this section you will find recipes for popular sidewalk, on the open verandah of a farm house, even in the
Thai salads, curries, soups, steamed, deep-fried and stir-fried dishes, middle of a rice field at harvest time, a Thai meal is nearly always
grilled dishes, desserts, relishes, and accompaniments. When cooking, a social affair.

SUGGESTED MENUS



Family meals A dinner party Finger food A melting pot menu
For a simple family meal, try For a stylish dinner party, serve: The appetizers in this section For a refined but simple Asian
serving steamed jasmine rice o Patty Shells with Minced make particularly good finger tasting menu:
with: Chicken (page 158) for a food-try the following at your o Shrimp Mousse on Sugar
o Spicy Shrimp Soup with stunning canape; next party or picnic: Cane (page 177) from
Lemongrass (page 160); o Spicy Pomelo Salad (page 162), o Pork and Shrimp Rolls Vietnam as a starter;
oDryBeef Curry (pageI65) and the elegant River Fish with (page 158); o Indonesian Pork in Sweet
Kale with Crispy Pork Chili Sauce (page 166) and o Chicken Fried in Pandan Soy Sauce (page 79) with
(pageI64); Roast Duck Curry (page 165); Leaves (page 158); Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables
o fmish with Bananas in o glittering Red Rubies (page 168) o Steamed Seafood Cakes (page 40) from China
Coconut Milk (page 168); as a palate cleanser. (page 159). combine well for a main
course that is not too heavy;
or o Red Bean Pancakes (page 46),
also from China, are a
o Green Papaya Salad (page 162); delicious dessert with which
o Red Chicken Curry with to finish.
Bamboo Shoots (page 165)
served with rice;
o fresh fruit like jackfruit,
mango, or rambutan.



THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF THAI COOKING

Thai cuisine uses the redolent fish sauce in almost everything besides desserts. The curries are built on subtle blends of cilantro, lemon-
grass, galangaI. chilies, and kaffir lime leaf and rind. Other typically Thai flavors include Thai sweet basil (horapa), ginger, shrimp
paste, and tamarind. Coconut milk and palm sugar are added to curries and sweets. Staples you will need include jasmine and
glutinous rice.

158 I THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S. I A



Thai people love good food, Filling
and the emphasis on quality 2 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
applies to both palace cuisine 4 tablespoons finely diced
and street food. An array of onion
sweetmeats and treats is avail- 2 cups (200 g) cooked
able -Thais seem to find it chicken or pork,
more satisfactory to eat a little finely chopped
of this and a little of that- 1/4 cup (60 ml) corn
along the klongs and side- kernels (sweetcorn)
walks, and outside offices and 2 tablespoons finely
shopping centres. The ready- diced carrot
to-eat delicacies may include 2 tablespoons sugar
barbecued or grilled food on or 1/4 teaspoon black soy
off skewers, salads, noodle sauce
soups, wrapped in dough or 1/2 teaspoon salt
edible leaves, or be a sweet. 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
Here are a few dishes that Cilantro (coriander) leaves for
would work well as finger food. garnish Pork and Shrimp Rolls
1 red chili, finely sliced
(left) and Patty Shells with
Minced Chicken (right)
Make the patty shells first by
Krathong Thong mixing all ingredients, except
Patty Shells with oil, together in a bowl. Heat the
Minced Chicken oil, then dip the krathong mold
in the oil to heat up. Dip the mold Tong Geon Yong Gai Hor Bai Toey
The delicate crisp shells used for into the batter and plunge back Pork and Shrimp Rolls Chicken Fried in Pandan Leaves
this snack are made using a into oil. Fry for about 5 minutes
special brass mould. Thin short- until light brown, then shake to The Chinese influence is evident If the pandan leaves are
crust pastry shells or even vol-au- remove the cup from the mold. in the use of dried beancurd unavailable the chicken can be
vent cases can be used instead. Place on paper towels to drain. skin. The filling can be made in stir-fried and served with
The recipe makes 20-25 cups. Repeat to make 20 to 25 cups. advance and the rolls assembled steamed rice.
Now make the filling. Put just before frying.
the oil in a hot wok and stir fry
Patty Shells 2 Ib (1 kg) chicken thighs
1/2 cup (80 g) rice flour onion and pork or chicken for 4 oz (125 g) shrimp, finely 20 pandan leaves
2 minutes. Add the rest of the
6 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour chopped Oil for deep-frying
ingredients and fry for about
4 tablespoons thin coconut milk 4 oz (125 g) pork, finely chopped
3 minutes until the vegetables
2 tablespoons tapioca flour 1 tablespoon light soy sauce Marinade
are fairly soft. Leave them to cool.
1 egg yolk then divide the filling among 1 teaspoon each of cilantro 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon sugar (coriander) root, garlic and 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
the patty shells. Garnish with peppercorn, pounded together
1/4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar
cilantro leaves and slices of Squares of dried beancurd skin
1/4 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons sesame oil
fresh red chili. (available in Asian food markets)
(bicarbonate of soda) 1 teaspoon each garlic and cilantro
4 cups (1 liter) corn oil
4 cups (1 liter) peanut or corn oil (coriander) root, pounded
1 scallion (spring onion), separated,
together to a paste
tying (optinal)
Mix shrimp and pork together Sauce
with soy sauce and the pounded 1 cup (250 ml) distilled white
ingredients. Wipe sheets of vinegar
dried beancurd skin with a 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
moist cloth to soften. Cut circles 2 tablespoons black soy sauce
about 4 1 /2 in (11 cm) in diameter 1 teaspoon white sesame seeds,
and place a little flllirlg in the
center. Squeeze in the sides to fried
make a bundle and tie with a 1/4 teaspoon salt
strip of scallion.
Alternatively, cut beancurd Debone chicken and cut thighs
skin into 4 x 6 in (10 x 15 cm) into 4 pieces. Mix marinade and
squares. Put a spoonful of the marinate the chicken meat for
filling in the middle and roll up 3 hours. Mix sauce ingredients
like a cigar, tucking in the ends. together and set aside.
Deep-fry the rolls in hot oil Wrap two or three pieces of
over medium heat until golden chicken with pandan leaves to
brown. Serve with soy sauce or form a bundle (see photo).
plum sauce. Deep-fry until fragrant. Serve
with dipping sauce and
steamed rice.


Chicken Fried in Pandan Leaves

I
APPETIZERS L____________________________________________________________ ~I THAILAND I 159


2 teaspoons finely sliced cilantro Filling
Haw Mok Thalay (coriander) root Sakuna Chomsuan 1/2 cup (80 g) roasted unsalted
Steamed Seafood Cakes 5 black peppercorns Shrimps with Sweet and peanuts, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Sour Sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt
This fragrant mixture of seafood, 1 teaspoon shrimp paste 2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon finely sliced krachai,
coconut milk, and seasonings is A simple but always popular 1/2 cup (80 g) minced pork
steamed in small cups made of optional appetizer. The shrimp can be 3/4 cup (100 g) minced shrimp
banana leaf. It is possible to use Pound the spice paste ingredients prepared in advance and deep- 1 cup (100 g) chopped salted
small ramekins or any other well in a mortar or process in a fried just before serving. Use radish
small heat-proof dishes as a blender. your favorite sweet and sour 2 tablespoons cooking oil
substitute. Mix coconut cream with the sauce for dipping or the one
rice flour and bring to a boil, on page 187. Dumplings
3/4 cup (180 mil coconut cream stirring until thickened. Remove 1/4 cup (30 g) tapioca flour
1 teaspoon rice flour from the heat, cool and set aside 1 Ib (500 g) large shrimp
4 oz (100 g) filleted fish, cut into for topping. 2 eggs, lightly beaten About 2 tablespoons dried anchun
thin slices Mix the spice paste with 4 cups (300 g) fine breadcrumbs flowers or 1/2 teaspoon blue
4 oz (100 g) shrimp, peeled and the fish, shrimp, squid, egg, Cooking oil for deep-frying food coloring
cleaned fish sauce, and then add the 2 cups (250 g) rice flour
4 oz (100 g) squid, cleaned and remaining coconut milk, a little Peel the shrimp, discard the heads 1/4 cup (60 ml) coconut milk
cut into 2-in (5-cm) pieces at a time. Add half the basil but leave on the tail sections. Slit 2 tablespoons cooking oil
2 eggs, beaten and kaffrr lime leaves and down the back of each shrimp, 1/4 cup (60 mil water
2 tablespoons fish sauce mix in. remove the intestinal tract and 1/2 cup (125 mil coconut cream
11/4 cups (300 mil thin coconut Place one of the remaining flatten the shrimp into a butterfly Banana leaf or aluminum foil
milk basil leaves in the bottom of shape by pressing gently with the
1/2 cup (20 g) finely chopped each cup, top with the fish Stir-fry all the filling ingredients
basil leaves (horapa) mixture, cover and steam for hand. Dip the shrimp in the egg together in oil until cooked and
2 tablespoons shredded kaffir lime 15 minutes. Remove the cups and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry until let cool.
leaves from steamer, and top each one golden and serve with sweet and Make the dumplings by
Cilantro (coriander) leaves to with a little of the boiled sour sauce. mixing all ingredients together.
garnish coconut cream, cilantro leaf, Cook over low heat, stirring
1 finely sliced red chili kaffir lime leaf, and sliced chili. constantly, until the mixture
Banana leaf cups 2 in (5 cm) Return to the steamer, cook turns into an elastic dough.
square, or individual ramekins for 1 more minute, then remove Chor Ladda Cover with plastic wrap while
from the steamer. Dumplings with Minced Pork making the individual dumplings
Spice Paste and Shrimp to prevent the dough from
5 dried. chilies, soaked in water drying out.
The surprising but brilliant color
and de seeded Pinch off a small ball of dough
3 cloves garlic of these delicate dumplings is and flatten into a circle about
obtained by soaking a blue flower
2 tablespoons finely sliced galangal 21/2 in (6 cm) in diameter.
(anchun), although commercial
1 teaspoon grated kaffir lime Place a teaspoonful of stuffing
rind food coloring can be substituted. in the center of the dough and
Shrimps with Sweet and Sour Sauce pinch edges together to enclose.
Use special tongs or pinch to
give the dumplings a flower
shape. Place on an oiled banana
leaf or aluminum foil and put
about 1 teaspoon of coconut
cream over the top of each
dumpling to prevent it from
drying out.
Steam dumplings for
8 minutes until cooked. Serve
warm on a bed of crisp-fried
golden garlic and top with
coconut cream.
HELPFUL HINT

In Thailand, a pair of miniature
tongs with serrations on the
inside is used to pi nch the
dough to create the "petals."
Fail ing such an esoteric utensil,
use your fingers to pinch the
dough into a decorative shape.

160 I THE FOOD 0 F AS I A I L ________________________________________________ I SOUPS & NOODLES


Thai soups are usually light, Spice Paste
accentuated with fresh aro- 3 dried chilies, soaked until soft
matics, and have the four 2 teaspoons finely chopped krachai
main flavors':""hot, sour, sweet,
(optional)
and salty. They are drunk 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
throughout a meal, but make
2 teaspoons finely chopped shallots
a perfectly acceptable first
course to a dinner party with
an Asian theme. Simmer the shrimp or fish fillets
in 3 cups of water until cooked.
Allow to cool in the stock, then
peel the shrimp or remove any
Gaeng Som bones from the fish. Keep all
Sour Soup with Vegetables the remaining stock
and Shrimps and set aside.
Pound or
Sour but fragrant tamarind process the
juice adds a special touch to this fish or shrimp
relatively mild soup, which is until well
full of vegetables and flavored mashed and
with pounded shrimps or fish. set aside.
As with other types of gaeng, Pound or
this has very little liquid. blend the
spice paste
3/4 Ib (400 g) shrimp or fish fillets ingredients,
3 cups (750 ml) water then put in a
1/4 Ib (125 g) straw mushrooms pan with the
1 large white radish, sliced reserved stock.
1/2 cup (80 g) sliced green papaya shrimp or fish, and veg-
1/2 cup (60 g) green beans, cut in etables. Bring to a boil and
I-in (2 1 /2-cm) pieces simmer until just cooked. Add
2/3 cup (60 g) cauliflower, broken the tamarind juice, lime juice,
into florets sugar, and salt to taste. Tom Yam Goong
1 cup (60 g) Chinese white Any combination of vegetables Spicy Shrimp Soup with
cabbage. cut into I-in can be used; suggested Lemongrass
(2 1 /2 cm) pieces alternatives include chayote
4 tablespoons tamarind juice (christophene), any other summer
2 tablespoons lime juice (optional) squash or zucchini (courgette), 4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
Sour Soup with
1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar eggplant (aubergine), green cab- (page 169) Vegetables and Shrimps
1 teaspoon sa It bage, and button mushrooms. 3 kaffir lime leaves
2 in (5 cm) galangal, sliced
1/4 teaspoon white pepper powder
3 stems lemon grass
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
Clear Soup with Glass Noodles (left) and Mixed Vegetable Soup (right) 6-8 medium to large shrimp (page 169)
5 oz (150 g) straw mushrooms
3 white peppercorns, crushed
5 green and red bird's-eye chilies
5 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste
4 oz (100 g) cellophane (glass)
1/2 tablespoon fish sauce, or to taste
noodles, soaked in warm for
3 bunches cilantro (coriander) leaves
5 minutes
3-4 cilantro (coriander) roots,
1 teaspoon fish sauce
washed (optional)
6 dried mushrooms, soaked in
Bring the stock to a boil, add water to soften, roughly chopped
galangal, kaffir lime leaves, 1/4 teaspoon sugar
cilantro roots, and lemon grass. 3 scallions (spring onions), cut
Simmer for 15 minutes. Add the into 1/2 -in (I-cm) pieces
shrimps, mushrooms, and chilies, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
and simmer for 3 minutes. Add (coriander)
the lime juice and fish sauce to Mix the pork, soy sauce, and
taste. The soup should be spicy- white pepper together. Form into
sour and a little salty. Serve roughly shaped, small meatballs.
garnished with fresh cilantro. Heat the chicken stock, add
crushed peppercorns and garlic,
and bring to a boil. Place the
Gaeng Jued Woon Sen meatballs in the boiling stock and
add the noodles, fish sauce, mush-
Clear Soup with Glass Noodles
rooms, and sugar. Simmer until
meatballs are cooked. Add scallion
I 10 oz (300 g) ground pork and cilantro and remove from
1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce
heat immediately. Serve with rice.

Gaeng Noppakao Tom Kha Gai
Mixed Vegetable Soup Spicy Chicken Soup with
Coconut Milk
This is less a soup in the Western
sense than vegetables. with a A delightful souP. creamy with
little pork. chicken. and shrimp. coconut milk and redolent with
simmered in seasoned stock. the flavor of galangal. kafflr
lime. and lemongrass. Vary the
5 cups mixed vegetables. such as amount of chilies according to
summer squash or zucchini taste. Cook gently to prevent the
(courgette). pumpkin. straw coconut milk from separating.
mushrooms, baby corn. green
beans. cut into bite-sized pieces 1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
5 oz (150 g) lean pork, thinly (page 169)
sliced 2 stems lemongrass
5 oz (150 g) chicken, very thinly 2 in (5 cm) galangal
sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves, torn into
5 oz (150 g) shrimp, peeled but small pieces
with tails left intact 3/4 Ib (400 g) chicken, cut into
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock 1/2 -in (l-cm) strips
(page 169) 4 oz (100 g) straw mushrooms
2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (40 g) lemon basil 4 tablespoons lime juice
(manglak) leaves 3 tablespoons fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar Rice Noodles with Fish Curry Sauce
Seasoning 3 cups (750 ml) coconut milk
10 black peppercorns 6 red bird's-eye chilies, bruised
1/2 tablespoon shrimp paste Kanom Jeen Nam Yaa 1 small bunch lemon basil
10 shallots Place the stock in a pot, add the Rice Noodles with Fish 1 (manglak)
1/4 cup (40 g) dried shrimps lemongrass. galangal. and kaffrr Curry Sauce 1 tablespoon ground dried chilies
lime leaves. Bring to a boil over
Place seasoning ingredients in a medium heat. Add the chicken. Because of their length, kanom Place all sauce ingredients in a
mortar or blender and pound or mushrooms. salt. lime juice. fIsh jeen noodles are commonly pot and simmer over low heat
blend until fIne. Add to chicken sauce. and sugar. Cook slowly. served at family ceremonies; until soft. Remove from heat.
stock and bring to a boil. stirring uncovered. for 10 minutes, then they are never broken until cool. place in mortar or blender
to prevent sticking. Add the add coconut milk and chilies. served and signify long life. and pound or blend until fIne.
vegetables. pork. chicken and Bring almost to a boil. stirring Prepare the stock next.
shrimp and simmer until just frequently. then remove from Sauce Wash and clean the fIsh.
cooked. Season to taste with fIsh heat and serve. 7 shallots, coarsely chopped removing head, and simmer
sauce or salt. then remove from 2 cloves garlic in just enough water to cover
heat. Add basil and serve. until soft. Drain and save the
2 slices galangal
water in which the fish was
2 tablespoons sliced lemongrass boiled. Remove the meat from
1 cup (150 g) minced krachai
Spicy Chicken Soup the fIsh. add to the sauce in the
with Coconut Milk (optional) mortar or blender and pound
3 dried chilies, seeds removed or blend to mix thoroughly.
1 teaspoon salt Put the sauce into a pot and
1 teaspoon shrimp paste add the coconut milk. Bring to
1 cup (250 ml) water a boil, then add the fIsh broth
and fIsh sauce. Simmer. stirring
Stock
regularly to prevent sticking.
1 small, well-flavored fish, about
until the sauce has thickened
1/2 Ib (250 g)
and the surface glistens bright
4 1/2 cups (11/8 liters) coconut
red. Add the coconut cream
milk and remove from heat.
1/2 cup (250 ml) coconut cream Arrange a portion of the
2-3 tablespoons fish sauce rice noodles and a little of each
of the accompaniments in
Accompaniments
individual bowls. Spoon the
2 Ib (1 kg) fresh rice noodles
sauce over just before serving.
(kanom jeen) or fresh angel-hair
pasta
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and
quartered
1/2 cup (75 g) sliced cabbage
1/2 cup (90 g) sliced cucumber
1/2 cup (50 g) blanched
beansprouts

162 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L_ ______ ________________ SALADS & APPETIZERS
I
I
Most Thai salads are hot and 4 oz (100 g) cooked shrimps as
sour, and like most of Thai garnish (optional)
cooking, call for the use of Lime wedges
copious amounts of fresh
herbs and greens. You can Sauce
vary the combination of greens 1 cup (250 ml) water
and spices, or perhaps combine 2 tablespoons chopped anchovies
aspects of several recipes to in brine
provide a modern twist. It is 1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar
important to balance the flavors 2 kaffir lime leaves, torn into small
of the dressing. pieces
1/2 in (1 cm) lemongrass, very
finely sliced
Khao Yam Pak Tai Put all the sauce ingre-
Southern-style Rice Salad dients in pan, bring to
a boil and simmer for
This is a popular way of using left- 5 minutes. Remove from
over rice and makes an ideal light heat, strain and set aside.
lunch. The seasonings added to Place the rice in small bowls,
the rice can be varied according each holding about half a cup.
to taste and availability. Press down then invert onto a
large serving platter. Arrange
the rest of raw ingredients
2 cups (320 g) cold cooked rice
around the edge of rice in
2 cups (180 g) grated coconut,
separate piles.
browned in an oven for 5-8 Southern-style
To eat, spoon some rice onto
minutes Rice Salad
1 small pomelo or grapefruit, individual plates and take a little
sectioned of each ingredient to mix with Serve accompanied by raw
1 small green mango, .shredded the rice according to taste. Som Tam Thai vegetables such as cabbage,
(optional) Spoon the sauce over the top. Green Papaya Salad
1/2 cup (80 g) dried shrimp, water convolvulus, and sprigs of
chopped HELPFUL HINT Originally an Isan dish from the basil; for a complete meal. add
1/2 cup (50 g) beansprouts northeast, this salad is now glutinous rice and roasted
Canned anchovies packed in
1/2 cup (80 g) finely sliced lemon- prepared by roadside hawkers chicken.
Europe make an acceptable
grass all over the country. Sam tam
su bstitute for the preserved
1/4 cup (25 g) sliced green beans Thai variety. If the very f ine captures the essential flavors of
1 egg, beaten, cooked into an dried shrimps used in Thai land Thailand: chili hot, redolent
omelet and shredded are not available, SUbst itute with garlic and fish sauce, and Yam Som-O
2 dried red chilies, pounded with packaged fish f loss. sour with lime juice. Prepare Spicy Pamela Salad
1 tablespoon very finely shredded
the salad just before eating.
kaffir lime leaf 1 pomelo or 2 grapefruits
1 tablespoon chopped fresh 2 tablespoons lime juice
7 green bird's-eye chilies
cilantro (coriander) 1 tablespoon fish sauce
10 oz (300 g) unripe green
1 tablespoon sugar
papaya, peeled and cut in very
Fried Mixed Vegetables 1/3 Ib (150 g) cooked shrimp
fine matchsticks
2 cups (200 g) cooked chicken
5 cloves garlic
breast, shredded
1/2 cup (50 g) long beans, cut in
2 tablespoons grated fresh or dried
1/2-in (l-cm) pieces
coconut
2 tablespoons unsalted roasted
1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream
peanuts
1 tablespoon dried shrimp, finely
1 tablespoon dried shrimp, soaked
chopped
in warm then chopped
6 cherry tomatoes, quartered, or
Peel the pomelo and shred the
1 large tomato, in wedges
flesh (if using grapefruit, peel
3 tablespoons lime juice and section). Place the lime
1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar juice, fish sauce, and sugar in a
1 tablespoon fish sauce
bowl and stir to mix. Then add
Tal(e a little of the chilies, papaya, the shrimp, chicken, grated
and garlic and pound roughly in coconut, and coconut cream
a mortar and pestle or process and continue stirring until
briefly in a blender. Set aside in a blended. Add the pomelo and
bowl and repeat until the chilies, toss to coat thoroughly.
papaya. and garlic are used. Transfer to serving plate.
Stir in the beans, peanuts, sprinkle with dried shrimp and
dried shrimp, and tomato, mix serve.
well and add the seasonings.

SALADS & APPETIZERS LI __________________________________ ~--------------------~
I T H A I LAN D I 163


1/2 cup (50 g) snow peas To stuff the omelets. place a
Pia Nuea Makreua Orn 2 cups (400 g) chopped young kale Kai Yad Sai spoonful of pork mixture in the
Beef Salad with Eggplant 3/4 cup (120 g) chopped cabbage Savory Stuffed Omelets center. fold two opposite sides
3/4 cup (150 g) chopped broccoli toward the center and then fold
This salad also works with 1/2 cup (100 g) chopped cauliflower Frequently found on the menu of in the remaining sides so that it
left-over roast or grilled beef. 3/4 cup (50 g) sliced mushrooms simple restaurants as well as at resembles a square. Put onto a
1/2 cup (50 g) baby sweet corn serving plate and repeat until
roadside stalls, this is often eaten
1/4 cup (60 ml) peanut or corn oil all the egg and pork mixture is
3 small round (or 1 long thin) at lunch time. The omelets can be
3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic used up.
green eggplants (aubergines) served individually as entrees.
1/2 cup (125 ml) chicken stock Garnish with cilantro leaves
3 tablespoons oil
(page 169) and finely sliced red chili. Serve
10 oz (300 g) uncooked or cooked 1/4 cup (60 ml) oil
4 tablespoons oyster sauce accompanied by rice.
beef fillet, sliced 4 oz (100 g) ground pork
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon sliced shallots 3 tablespoons diced tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon black soy sauce
5 green bird's-eye chilies, coarsely 3 tablespoons cooked green peas
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
chopped 2 tablespoons finely diced onion laud Man Goong
2 tablespoons lime juice Cut or slice the vegetables into 1/2 tablespoon sugar Deep-fried Shrimp Cakes
1 tablespoon fish sauce bite-sized pieces and mix together 1 tablespoon fish sauce
1/4 teaspoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
in a bowl. Plunge them into Hawkers in coastal towns.
boiling water for a few seconds to 1/4 teaspoon black soy sauce especially around Songkhla.
Cut the eggplant into 112-in (I-em) blanch. then drain and set aside. 3 eggs, beaten Surat Thani and Phuket. offer
slices and fry until cooked. Put Heat a wok until lightly 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
into a bowl. (coriander) leaves a similar but highly seasoned
If using uncooked beef. saute smoking and add the oil. When 1 red chili, sliced snack made with fish (Taud Man
in a skillet in a little oil over high hot. add the garlic and stir well. PIa). This more delicate version
heat until done. Combine the beef Add the vegetables and chicken Heat half of the oil in a wok is served with a savory accom-
with the eggplant and the stock all at once and stir fry for over high heat and stir fry the paniment of pickled vegetables.
about 3 to 4 minutes until just
remaining ingredients and mix cooked; the vegetables should pork for 2 minutes. Add all the
well. Serve at room temperature still be slightly criSp. Add the remaining ingredients except 11/4 Ib (600 g) large shrimp
with white rice. for the eggs. cilantro. chili. and 5 oz (150 g) lard (hard pork fat)
oyster sauce and soy sauces. remaining oil. Fry until cooked 1 teaspoon salt
then sprinkle with pepper. then set aside. 1/2 teaspoon sugar
Mix well and cook for 1 minute. Heat an omelet pan of 6 to 2 cups (500 ml) fresh breadcrumbs
Pad Pak Ruam Mit Serve accompanied by rice. 8 in (12 to 20 em) in diameter. 4 cups (1 liter) oil
Fried Mixed Vegetables add a drop of the remaining oil.
HElPFUL HINT Pour in enough egg to thinly Accompaniment
This method of cooking vegetables Use maximum heat to stir-fry cover the base. Brown the 1 cup (250 ml) distilled white
can be used for individual veg- the vegetables to ensure the omelet lightly on both sides. vinegar
etables such as kale or broccoli, right texture and flavor. flipping over halfway through 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
or a combination, depending on cooking. Repeat until all the 5 bird's-eye chilies
availability and your preference. egg is used up. 2 shallots, sliced
1 tablespoon finely sliced cauliflower
1 tablespoon finely sliced baby
corn
1 tablespoon sliced small
cucumber
To prepare the accompaniment.
bring the vinegar and sugar to a
boil. then leave to cool. Add all
vegetables. mix and set aside.
Chop shrimp and lard
together or process in a blender
until fine. Add salt. sugar. and
breadcrumbs. then shape into
patties. Deep-fry in the oil until
golden brown and fragrant.
Serve hot with the accompa-
niment.

HElPFUL HINT
The accompan iment and shrimp
cakes can be prepared in advance.
Fry the shri mp cakes just before
serving.

;;~~~~~~~ ____________________________________ I MAIN DISHES
__


1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream 3 tablespoons Mussaman curry
1 1 tablespoon red curry paste paste (page 169)
(page 169) 1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream
12 oz (400 g) pork tender 1 Ib (500 g) beef sirloin or stewing
fillet, cut in 1/2-in (l·cm) beef
slices 2 cups (500 ml) thin coconut milk
1/3 cup (90 ml) pea-sized 5 cardamom seeds, roasted until
eggplants (optional) fragrant
11/2 cups (375 ml) coconut 1 cinnamon stick about 3 in (8 cm)
milk in length
11/2 tablespoons fish sauce 2 medium·sized (200 g) potatoes,
11/2 teaspoons sugar peeled and cut into large
5 kaffir lime leaves, halved chunks
1 heaped tablespoon unsalted
1 fresh red chili, finely sliced
peanuts, chopped
lengthwise
10 shallots
1/2 cup (20 g) basil leaves (horapa)
Red Pork Curry 3 bay leaves
3 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
Bring the coconut cream to a 2 tablespoons fish sauce
boil, stirring constantly. Put in 3 tablespoons tamarind juice
the red curry paste, pork, and
In Thailand main cours- eggplant, stir well, and cook
es are usually served with Cook the curry paste and coconut
rice. The dishes are served at meat, a thin layer of fat and crisp, until done (about 5 minutes). cream together for 5 minutes,
once, and stay on the table golden-brown skin, contrasts Add the fish sauce, sugar, then add the beef and fry for
throughout the meal. The beautifully in taste and texture kaffir lime leaves, and chili. Stir 8 to 10 minutes. Add the rest of
recipes here serve four as with the vegetable. Although and heat through, then remove the coconut milk, bring to a
part of a shared meal. unconventional. thick slices of from heat and garnish with basil. boil and simmer gently for
crisp fried bacon make an excel- 10 minutes.
lent substitute. Add all the remaining ingre-
dients and cook until the potatoes
Kana Moo Grob Gaeng Mussaman and meat are tender.
Kale with Crispy Pork Mussaman Beef Curry Serve accompanied by sliced
Gaeng Ped Moo pickled ginger, pickled vegetables
When making family meals Red Pork Curry Spices such as cardamom and cin- and rice.
vegetables are frequently cooked namon were brought to Thailand
with a little meat, poultry or Pork is the most popular meat in by Indian Muslim traders. This
seafood to add flavor and a con- Thailand. This is a very simple, curry uses the basic Mussaman
trasting texture. Kale, known in quickly prepared curry. curry paste and other spices.
Thailand by its Chinese name,
kai lan, is enjoyed for its firm Mussaman Beef Curry
stems. If kale is not available,
tty using broccoli stems.

2 Ib (1 kg) kale or 1 Ib (500 g)
brocooli stems
3 tablespodns oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
l() oz (300 g) crispy pork, diced
4 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
(page 169)

Discard the leaves and tough
bottom part of the kale stems.
Peel the skin off the tender
stems and discard. Cut stems in
2 to 3-in (5 to 8-cm) lengths.
Heat the oil in a wok. When
it is very hot, fry the garlic until
fragrant, then add the kale and
crispy porle Stir to mix well, and
then add all the seasonings and
stock. Mix well, heat through
and then serve immediately.
Roasted pork with a layer of

I
"AIN DISHES L____________________________________________________________ ~I THAILANDI 165



Gaeng Ped Gai Gaeng Ped
Naw Mai Roast Duck Curry
Red Chicken Curry with
Bamboo Shoots Buy a red-roasted duck from an
Asian barbecue shop or restaurant
1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream for this curry. Pea aubergines or
1 tablespoon red curry paste snake beans, added at the last
(page 169) moment, add a slightly crunchy
12 oz (400 g) boneless chicken, texture to the smooth curry and
diced provide a nice foil to the richness
11/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk of the roasted duck.
10 oz (300 g) bamboo shoots,
sliced length~ise (see Note) 1 roasted duck
2 tablespoons fish sauce 1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream
1/4 teaspoon- salt 3 tablespoons red curry paste
11/2 teaspoons sugar (page 169)
5 kaffir lime leaves, halved 11/2 cups (375 ml) thin coconut
1 fresh red chili, finely sliced milk
lengthwise 2-3 large tomatoes, in wedges
1/2 cup (20 g) basil leaves 1 cup (150 g) pea-sized eggplants
(horapa) (aubergines), or 1 small eggplant
cut into 1/2 -in (l-cm) slices
In a pot, bring the coconut 4 kaffir lime leaves
cream to a boil. Simmer, stirring 2 tablespoons fish sauce
Red Chicken Curry with Bamboo Shoots constantly, until the surface 1 teaspoon sugar
takes on an oily sheen. Put in 1/2 teaspoon salt
the red curry paste and chicken, 10 basil leaves (horapa)
Gaeng Kheow Wan Gai Panaeng Nuea stir well, and add coconut milk 4 red or green chilies, cut into fine
Green Chicken Curry Dry Beef Curry and bamboo shoots. lengthwise strips
Cook until the chicken is
A fragrant, creamy curry that is 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, tender, then add fish sauce, Remove all bones from the duck
sure to wake up your tastebuds. ground salt, sugar, kaffrr lime leaves, and cut the meat into bite-sized
Remove the skin from the chicken 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, ground and chili. Remove from heat and pieces.
if you wish to reduce the oiliness. 3 tablespoons Mussaman curry garnish with basil. Heat the coconut cream over
This dish can be prepared in paste (page 169) Note: If using canned bamboo medium heat and add the red
advance--just add the basil and 1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream shoots, drain and boil in fresh curry paste, stirring well. Add the
chilies when reheating the dish 12 oz (400 g) beef, cut into thin water for about 5 minutes to duck and stir well, then add the
before serving. strips get rid of any metallic taste. remaining coconut milk, toma-
11/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk Fresh bamboo shoots should be toes, eggplant, kaffir lime leaves,
sliced and simmered until just
1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut cream 1/2 cup (90 g) ground roasted fish sauce, sugar, and salt. Bring
tender before being added to
3 tablespoons green curry paste peanuts to a boil, then remove from heat.
(page 169) 11/2-2 tablespoons fish sauce the curry. Sprinkle with the basil leaves
12 oz (400 g) chicken breast, 3 tablespoons chopped palm sugar and red or green chilies. Serve
sliced 6 kaffir lime leaves, torn in half with plain rice.
11/2 cups ( 375 ml) coconut milk 1 red chili, thinly sliced
2 kaffir lime leaves Roast Duck Curry
11/2 tablespoons fish sauce Mix the ground coriander and
1 teaspoon sugar cumin with the Mussaman
11/3 cups (150 g) eggplant curry paste.
(aubergine), cut into bite-sized Heat coconut cream until
pieces some of the oil surfaces, then
1/4 cup (10 g) basil leaves add the curry paste and lowly
(horapa) bring to a boil, stirring constantly.
2-3 red chilies, cut in strips Put in beef strips and cook
lengthwise for 5 minutes, add remaining
coconut milk and the rest of
Heat coconut cream until it ingredients, except for the kaffir
begins to have an oily sheen, lime leaves and chili. Stir well
then add the curry paste and and simmer until the meat is
stir well. Add the chicken and tender, and the oil has come out
cook until it changes color. of the coconut milk.
Add coconut milk, lime leaves, Add the kaffir lime leaves
fish sauce, and sugar. Bring to a and chili, remove from the heat
boil, then add the eggplant. and serve with white rice.
Simmer until the chicken is
cooked, then add the basil and
chilies. Serve.

166 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L _ _ ____ _ __________ ________ ~I MAIN DISHES
I


1 whole freshwater fish weighing
Kha Kob Phad Ped about 2 Ib (1 kg), or 2 smaller fish
Frogs'Legs with Chili and Basil 5 oz (150 g) dried red chilies,
soaked in the water and deseeded
Frogs, found in the klongs or 1/2 cup (100 g) garlic, peeled
canals and rice paddies of 1/2 cup (100 g) shallots, peeled
Thailand, are sometimes 1/2 tablespoon shrimp paste
euphemistically called "paddy 4 cups (1 liter) oil
chicken." Their flavor is delicate
and similar to chicken. Fish sauce to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
10 kaffir lime leaves, very finely
1/3 cup (90 ml) oil
shredded
8 pairs of frogs' legs
1 tablespoon green peppercorns Scale and clean the fish thor-
3 red chilies, sliced lengthwise oughly, leaving on the head if
3 in (8 cm) galangal, cut into fine
liked. Make cuts about lJz in
matchsticks
(1 em) deep along the back of
2 teaspoons fish sauce
each fish to give them a decorative
1/2 teaspoon chopped palm sugar appearance.
Large handful basil leaves (horapa)
Finely chop the chilies, garlic,
and shallot, then mix with the
Heat the oil in a wok until very shrimp paste. Fry in 3 table-
hot. Add frogs' legs and pepper- spoons of oil until fragrant,
corns and stir fry over high heat then add fish sauce and sugar.
for a couple of minutes. Add Dry the fish thoroughly, then
chilies, galangal, fish sauce, and deep-fry until cooked. Put on a
sugar. Mix well and cook for serving plate topped with the
another minute. Stir in the basil, sauce. Sprinkle with kaffir lime
take off the heat and serve. leaves and serve immediately. 11/4 Ib (600 g) fresh squid Stuffing

2 tablespoons oil 1/2 cup (175 g) ground pork
1/2 cup (100 g) chopped garlic 1/3 cup (75 g) minced shrimp
Pia Nuea Orn Pia Muk Tod 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1/2 cup (60 g) fresh crabmeat
2 tablespoons finely chopped
crushed
River Fish with Chili Sauce Fried Squid with Garlic and 2 tablespoons oyster sauce onion
Although freshwater fish are Black Pepper 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion
preferred for this dish in 1 teaspoon sugar (spring onion)
Thailand, any good white- This is a quick and delicious way Cilantro (coriander) leaves to 1 teaspoon ground white pepper
fleshed sea fish can be used. of cooking squid. Be sure to use garnish 1 teaspoon sugar
A stunning dish that is also fresh and not frozen squid, as the Remove the tentacles from the 1/4 teaspoon light soy sauce
latter exudes water when cooked,
1/4 teaspoon salt
very easy to make.
causing the squid to stew rather squid and cut out the hard beal<y
than fry. portion. Remove the skin from the If using cooked crabs, remove
body of the squid, clean inside the backs carefully and discard
and cut into bite-sized pieces. any spongy matter. Wash backs
Dry thoroughly and set aside. and set aside. Remove crabmeat
Put the oil in a wok over from body, legs and claws and
medium heat. Fry the garlic measure out IJz cup (60 g),
until golden-brown, then add keeping the rest aside for
the squid and its tentacles, another dish.
together with the seasonings. If using raw crabs, steam
Cook for a couple of minutes first, then prepare
until the squid turns white. as directed above.
Serve hot sprinkled with Mix all the stuffing ingredi-
cilantro leaves. ents together and fill the
crab shells.
Heat the oil in a pan, dip
the stuffed crabs in the
Poo Jaa beaten egg to coat them
Deep-fried Stuffed Crab Shell well all over and then
deep-fry for about 10 to
15 minutes until cooked.
4 whole crabs
Remove and drain well on
3 eggs, well beaten paper towels. Sprinkle with
5 cups (1 1/4 liters) oil
cilantro and chilies before
1 tablespoon cilantro (coriander) serving.
leaves
2 red chilies, cut into lengthwise
strips

MAIN DISHES LI ____________________________________________________________ ~I THAILANDI 167




Poo Ob Woon Sen
Casseroled Crabs with
Glass Noodles

Use either crab claws or whole
crabs cut into serving pieces for
this recipe. Although slices of pork
fat are usually used in Thailand,
bacon improves the flavor.

2 slices lean bacon, cut into I-in
(2 1/2-cm) pieces
2 whole crabs, shelled, or 1 Ib
(500 g) crab claws
2 cilantro (coriander) roots, halved
2 in (5 cm) ginger, pounded or
chopped finely
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon white peppercorns,
crushed
8 oz (250 g) cellophane (glass)
noodles (woon sen) soaked in
cold water for 5 minutes
1 te<lspoon butter
Fried Clams in Roasted Chili Paste (below) and Steamed Mussels (above)
3 tablespoons black soy sauce
1/4 CliP (10 g) chopped cilantro
root, ginger, garlic, and pepper- add the salt and stir well. Remove Meanwhile, mix the sauce
(coriander) leaves and stems
corns. Place the noodles over from heat and allow to cool, then ingredients together, bring to a
2 scallions (spring onions), cut in
the top, then add the butter, add the remaining ingredients boil, then leave to cool.
Il/2-in (4-cm) lengths
soy sauce, and soup stock. and mix thoroughly. Serve the mussels accompa-
Cover and bring to a boil. Clean the crayfish or prawns nied by the sauce, used for dipping.
Stock Simmer for 5 minutes. Mix well and wrap each securely in
2 cups (500 mil chicken stock with tongs and add the cilantro foil or banana leaf. Grill over a
(page 169)
and scallion. Cover and simmer hot charcoal frre for about
2 tablespoons oyster sauce Hoy Lai Ped
for about 5 minutes more, until 12 minutes. Serve with sauce.
2 tablespoons black soy sauce
the crabs are cooked. Remove Fried Clams in Roasted
1/2 tablespoon sesame oil
excess liquid before serving. Chili Paste
1 teaspoon brandy or whisky
Hoi Ma-Iaeng Poo Ob 1/3 cup (90 mil oil
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Steamed Mussels 11/4 Ib (600 g) clams in their
Place all the stock ingredients in Goong POW
a pan, bring to a boil and simmer Charcoal-grilled Prawns with This simple dish lives and dies shells, cleaned well
for 5 minutes. Leave to cool. Sweet Sauce on the strength of its ingredients, 11/2 tablespoons chopped garlic
Take 9. heat-proof casserole so use the best mussels you can 5 fresh red chilies, sliced length
dish and place the bacon over The fragrance of seafood grilling afford and add lots of fresh, wise
the base. Put in the crab, cilantro 2 tablespoons roasted chili paste
over charcoal is irresistible. In sweet-smelling basil. (page 169)
Thailand, this dish is made with 2 teaspoons light soy sauce
large freshwater prawns. 4 1/2 Ib (2 kg) mussels, cleaned 1/2 cup (125 ml) chicken stock
well (page 169)
3 large fresh-water prawns or Large handful basil leaves Large handful basil leaves
small crayfish (horapa) (horapa)
Foil or banana leaf
Sauce Heat the oil in wok, add the
Sauce 1/2 cup (125 ml) lime juice clams and garlic and cook until
1/3 cup (90 mil water 2 tablespoons fish sauce the clams open slightly. Add the
1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon sugar fresh chilies, chili paste, and
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 cilantro (coriander) roots, soy sauce, mix well, then add
11/2 tablespoons chopped garlic chopped chicken stock. Stir in the basil
112 tablespoon chopped chilies 2 cloves garlic, crushed and serve immediately,
1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro 1/2 cup (125 mil water accompanied by rice.
(coriander)
2 tablespoons lime juice Place the mussels in a steamer HELPFUL HINT
over boiling water and sprinkle Soak the clams in several
Prepare the sauce frrst. Heat the with the basil leaves. Steam for changes of water for an hour or
water and sugar in a pan over 10 minutes. Remove from the so before cooking to ensure
low heat, stirring until the sugar heat and wait for 2 minutes they are thorough Iy clean .
has dissolved. Turn off the heat, before opening the steamer.

168 I THE FOOD OF ASIA LI ____________________________________________________ ~ DESSERTS



Fresh fruit is the mainstay of Put in a colander or sieve and 5 eggs (2 of them duck eggs
Thai desserts-what shake to allow excess flour to if possible)
Westerners may called fall away. 1 cup (250 ml) coconut
desserts are usually eaten Bring 5 cups water to a boil, cream
between meals as fillers. Rice add the water chestnuts and 1 cup (150 g)
, and tapioca flours, sticky rice, simmer for 3 minutes. Drain and chopped palm
coconut milk, a twist of pan- plunge in cold water. Drain again sugar or
dan leaf, and palm sugar are and set aside on a cloth. 1/2-3/4 cup
indispensable ingredients. Boil the sugar and the water (100--150 g)
to make syrup, allow to cool, white sugar
then add the coconut mille To 1 whole small
serve, put a little of the water pumpkin,
Tab Tim Grob chestnut into dessert dishes and about 8 in
Red Rubies add some of the syrup and ice. (20 cm) in
diameter
This rather poetic name is given
to tiny diced water chestnuts Beat the eggs with
colored bright red and served in Kloey Buad Chee coconut cream and
sweetened coconut mille Bananas in Coconut Milk sugar until the
Although troublesome to peel, mixture is frothy.
fresh water chestnuts have a There are more than a dozen Cut the top off the
delicate sweetness and excellent different types of bananas in pumpkin and carefully scoop
texture. If these are unavailable, Thailand. This recipe uses the out the seeds and any fibers. Pumpkin Custard
jicama (yam beans) can be used. tiny sweet variety sometimes Pour in the coconut cream
known as finger bananas or lady mixture, cover with the top of
1 cup (200 g) finely diced water finger bananas. If using large the pumpkin and place in a
chestnuts or jicama bananas, cut on the diagonal steamer. Cover the steamer and Khao Mao Tod
Red food coloring into 3 in (8 cm) lengths. place over boiling water. Cook Deep-fried Bananas
1/2 cup (60 g) tapioca flour for about 30 minutes or until
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar the mixture has set.
2 cups (500 ml) thin coconut milk Bananas are rolled in a mixture
3/4 cup (180 ml) water Leave to cool (preferably
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar of rice flakes, grated coconut
3/4 cup (180 ml) thick coconut refrigerate) and cut in thick
1/4 teaspoon salt and palm sugar before being
milk 3 small bananas, cut diagonally in slices to serve. dipped in batter and deep-fried.
Crushed ice half Note: The duck eggs add
richness and a firmer texture to
Sprinlde the water chestnuts with Pour coconut milk into a pot, the custard. If using palm sugar, 11/4 Ib (600 g) freshly grated
red food coloring and stir until add sugar and salt. Bring to a boil, strain the custard through a sieve coconut
bright red. Put the tapioca starch stirring constantly to prevent the before pouring into the pumpkin. 1 cup (150 g) palm sugar, chopped
12 oz (400 g) rice flakes (khoa mao)
in a plastic bag and add the water coconut milk from separating. 10 small finger bananas
chestnuts and shake so the Add the bananas and cook gently
pieces become well coated. for 5 minutes then remove from BaUer
the heat. Serve hot or cold. Bua Loi
Rice Balls in Coconut Milk 3 cups (450 g) glutinous rice flour
Red Rubies (top) , Bananas in 1 cup (250 ml) thin coconut milk
Coconut Milk (right) 3 cups (450 g) glutinous rice flour 1 cup (250 ml) water
and Rice Balls in 4 cups (1 liter) coconut cream 1 egg, lightly beaten
Coconut Sangkaya Fak 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
Milk Thong 2 cups (420 g) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Pumpkin Custard Combine the coconut, palm
Mix the rice flour with enough sugar, and rice flakes and saute
A simple sweet that water to make a stiff paste. in a non-stick pan, stirring
goes straight from Knead well and then form into frequently, for 1/2 hour. Set aside.
the stove to the table, pea-sized balls. Bring a large pot Mix the batter ingredients and
this rich coconut of water to a boil, toss in the let it stand for 3 hours.
cream custard is a balls and remove when they Just before serving, roll each
favourite in Thailand. float to the surface. Drain. banana in the sauteed mixture,
Bring half the coconut cream then dip in the batter and fry in
to a boil, stirring constantly to the hot oil until golden brown.
prevent it from separating, then Serve hot.
add the flour balls. When the
mixture returns to a boil, remove HELPFUL HINT
from the heat and stir in the Flattened rice grains or rice
remaining coconut cream. fl akes are found under a variety
Serve as dessert in small bowls. of names in most Asian coun-
Add canned sweet corn tries, and are often known by
kernels for a more colorful the Filipino name, pinipig. Any
dessert. type of rice flake or even wheat
flake can be subst ituted,

STOCKS, SAUCES & CONDIMENTS I ____________________________________________ ~I THAILAND I 169
L


1 cup (150 g) coarsely chopped
Chicken Stock Nam Prik Gaeng Nam Thai Orn smoked fish
Kheow Wan Green Peppercorn Dip 4 cups (1 liter) coconut milk
Homemade chicken stock greatly Green Curry Paste 1 tablespoon palm sugar
improves the flavor of recipes 2 tablespoons fresh or bottled 2 tablespoons fish sauce
in which it is used. The stock 1 tablespoon coriander seeds green peppercorns 5 red chilies
can be put in 4-cups (I-litre) 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 3 cloves garlic Pound dried chilies, shallots,
containers and deep-frozen for 15 green bird's-eye chilies 1 teaspoon sugar lemon grass, galangal, krachai
up to 3 months. 3 tablespoons finely chopped 1/2 tablespoon dried shrimps
and shrimp paste with half the
shallots 2-3 tablespoons lime juice
smoked fish until well mixed.
5-6 1/2 Ib (2 1/2-3 kg) chicken 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 6 sour fruits such as green mango Heat coconut milk and simmer
bones 1 teaspoon finely chopped galangal or green apple, sliced until oil comes to the surface
6 quarts (6 liters) water 1 tablespoon finely sliced lemon and the quantity has reduced.
11/2 cups (250 g) chopped onion grass If using bottled or canned green Add the paste and continue
1 cup (125 g) chopped celery 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped kaffir peppercorns, be sure to wash off cooking until fragrant. Add
1 tablespoon coriander seeds lime rind brine thoroughly first. Pound in sugar, the rest of the fish, fish
1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon finely chopped cilantro a mortar or blend the garlic and sauce and chilies and simmer
(coriander) root 1 tablespoon of peppercorns. until thick. Serve with grilled
Wash bones in cold water then 5 black peppercorns then add sugar, dried shrimps, shrimp or fluffy crisp fish flakes
put in a stockpot and cover with 1 teaspoon salt and lime juice. Mix well and in a pan and cook over low heat,
cold water. Bring rapidly to the 1 teaspoon shrimp paste add the remaining tablespoon of stirring frequently, until the
boil, then drain and discard water. peppercorns. Stir until well sauce has thickened and reduced.
Cover bones with 6 quarts water Dry-fry the coriander and cumin mixed. Serve with sour fruit, Cool to room temperature and
and add all other ingredients. seeds in a wok over low heat vegetables, and fried or grilled garnish with cilantro leaves
Simmer for 4 hours, removing for about 5 minutes, then grind fish. when serving.
the scum as it accumulates. into a powder. Put the rest of
Strain through a cloth. the ingredients except the
shrimp paste into a blender and
blend to mix well. Add the spice Nam Prik POW
seed mixture and shrimp paste Roasted Chili Paste Nam Prik Pia Yaang
Nam Prik Gaeng Ped and blend to obtain 1/2 cup Dip with Grilled Fish
Red Curry Paste (125 ml) of fine-textured paste. 2 cups (500 ml) vegetable oil
8 shallots, sliced 3-4 red bird's-eye chi.lies
Basic curry pastes can be stored 6 cloves garlic, sliced 1 dried chili, cut and soaked
in a covered glass jar in a refrig- 1 cup (160 g) dried shrimps 3 cloves garlic, grilled in skin
erator for 1 month, or in the Nam Prik Gaeng 1/2. cup (50 g) small dried chilies uritil blackened
freezer for 3-4 months. Mussaman 1 tablespoon palm sugar 2 shallots, grilled in skin until
Mussaman Curry Paste 3 tablespoons fish sauce blackened
1 tablespoon coriander seeds 11/2 tablespoons tamarind juice 1 cup (150 g) flaked fish
1 teaspoon cumin seed 3 tablespoons finely chopped 1/3 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon shrimp paste,
13 dried bird's-eye chilies, shallots roasted
cut, soaked in hot water for 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic Heat the oil in a wok and fry the 2 tablespoons lime juice
15 minutes and deseeded 1 teaspoon finely chopped galangal shallots and garlic until golden 1 tablespoon fish sauce
3 tablespoons finely chopped 1 heaped tablespoon finely sliced brown; remove from oil and drain. 1 teaspoon sugar
shallots lemongrass Add the dried shrimps and chilies 1 teaspoon kaffir lime juice
4 tablespoons finely chopped garlic 2 cloves and fry until golden brown;
1 tablespoon finely chopped 1 tablespoon coriander seeds remove from oil and drain. Pound bird's-eye chilies, then
galangal 1 teaspoon cumin seeds In a food processor or blender, add dried chili, peeled garlic,
2 tablespoons finely sliced lemon 5 black peppercorns process the prawns, garlic, and shallots and continue
grass 3 dried chilies, cut, soaked in hot chilies, shallots, and sugar until pounding until ground into
2 teaspoons finely chopped kaffir water for 15 minutes and the mixture is well blended. a fine paste. Add lime juice,
lime rind deseeded Add the fish sauce, tamarind fish sauce, and sugar. Mix well
1 tablespoon finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt juice, salt, and cooled oil from and add kaffir lime juice. Serve
cilantro (coriander) root 1 teaspoon shrimp paste the wok and blend to obtain a with vegetables and grilled or
20 black peppercorns finely textured paste. fried fish.
1 teaspoon shrimp paste Dry-fry the shallots, garlic,
galangal, lemongrass, cloves, HELPFUL HINT
Dry-fry the coriander and coriander and cumin seeds in Serve dips with a selection of
cumin seeds in a wok over low a wok over low heat for about Kapi Kua raw baby vegetables, salted
heat for about 5 minutes, then 5 minutes, then grind into a Shrimp Paste and Coconut duck egg and crisp pork skin.
grind to a powder. Add the powder. Add the rest of the Milk Dip
remaining ingredients, except ingredients, except the shrimp
the shrimp paste, and blend paste, and blend to mix well. 2 dried chilies, cut and soaked
well. Add the ground spice mix- Combine .the blended mixture 5 shallots
ture and shrimp paste and blend and the shrimp paste and blend 5 stems lemongrass, finely sliced
again to obtain about 3/4 cup again to obtain 1/2 cup (125 ml) 3 slices galangal
(180 ml) of fine-textured paste. of fine-textured paste. 3 tablespoons minced krachai
3 tablespoons shrimp paste, roasted

"The land of the
Perfume River has
been blessed with an
astonishing variety
of foods from the
earth and from the
water."

__________________________________________________________________________ ~I VIETNAM I 171






















Not only is Vietnam the site of an economic revival but
a great culinary tradition is re-emerging too.

























Left: The quiet journey
home from market.

Right: Fresh carrots being
readied for market in the
central highlands.
Vietnamese food is char-
acterized by its lavish use
of fresh vegetables and
herbs.




With lengths of unspoiled dramatic coastline, The Land and its People
sheltered harbors, well-irrigated lowlands and Vietnam is fortunate in being able to grow a
vast forests, Vietnam is a remarkably beautiful diverse variety of vegetables and fruits throughout
and fertile land, rich in agricultural resources. the country and little food is imported. Rice and
It is also a country in the process of change; seafood are in abundant supply, due in part to its
with the start of a new millenium, a great sense location on the eastern coast of the southeast
of optimism hangs in the air. The effects of Asian Indochinese peninsula and a 1600-mile
doi rnoi, the economic reform policy allowing coastline. It boasts countless dykes, canals, and
small-scale private enterprise, introduced by the waterways, which include the Red River, the
communist government in 1986, are becoming Perfume River, and the Mekong River, one of the
more and more evident. The accumulation of longest rivers in Southeast Asia.
personal wealth is now encouraged. Vietnam shares its border with China, Laos,
The food markets are a hive of activity: and Cambodia. In the cooler northern region,
these days produce is trucked in from nearby where undulating limestone hills recall southwest
villages, coastal waters, and the central high- China and where many of Vietnam's ethnic groups
lands. Throughout the day, crowds of people fill have their homes, the cuisine shares distinct
their baskets from the rows of fresh vegetables similarities with Chinese food.
and tropical fruits, live fish and game, pickled The center of the country is less agriculturally
meats and vegetables, candied fruit, dried and rich, and in the temperate south, the cuisine more
packaged goods, rice, and bottles of pungent closely resembles that of neighboring Southeast
nuoe rnarn fish sauce. Asian countries, such as Thailand and Malaysia.

1 7 2 I T H E FOOD OF A S I A



The food of the south is more varied and rich than that of Hue or ing it lighter and more refreshing than, say, Thai food. Its use of
Hanoi, and generously spiced crisp, uncooked vegetables, subtle seasonings, raw herbs and unique



The Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the flavor combinations—sharp, sweet and fresh and fragrant at the


south are the two main rice-growing areas, although lush gree same time—is unforgettable

rice paddies dotted with water buffalo and rows of women with thei While Vietnamese restaurants in other regions of the world

distinctive conical hats can be seen throughout the country. Sixt rarely manage to offer more than one kind of mint, basil or cilantro,


percent of arable land in Vietnam is given over to rice production, markets throughout Vietnam sell a remarkable array of such herbs,
leaving little pasture for cattle farming. Hence beef, in particular, is as well as leaves such as the deep-red, spicy perilla leaf, tia to, and the


a luxury for most Vietnamese, and the famous series of dishes, bo bay pungent saw-leaf herb (long coriander).



mon (literally, beef done seven ways), is highly regarded Fresh herbs turn up in all sorts of dishes. Soup kitchens servin




In spite of urbanization and increasingly populated cities, rough- the glorious noodle soup pho also offer a huge plate of raw herbs to

ly 80 percent of the population relies on rice for its livelihood. Rice is be stirred into the steaming soup. The herbs are also served with ban

used in a diverse range of dishes and in the production of wine and xeo, a kind of crepe enclosing shrimp, pork, mung beans, and bean
vinegar. The grains are also converted into flour and used to make sprouts, and with spring rolls or grilled meats, and in salads.
rice noodles and trans- Other factors that con-

formed into rice paper tribute to the subtlety
sheets for goi cuon, the and uniqueness of

Vietnamese fresh sprin Vietnamese food are
rolls. Glutinous rice the refined cookin

cooked overnight, the techniques, the ofte



wrapped into attractiv unusual serving of

banana leaf parcels varying dishes and the

becomes breakfast-tim combination of flavors

xoi or the traditional
bank tay and bank chung

eaten during Tet, the Imperial Cuisin
Vietnamese Lunar New Hue, situated on the

Year holiday. banks of the tranquil
Perfume River, was once

an important seat of

The Making of learning and culture, as
Cuisine well as the imperial seat

The Vietnamese peopl for nearly 150 years.

have a history of for- To satisfy jade
eign influences, fro imperial palates, but
neighbors, sojourner lacking in the agricul-

and settlers, all of tural diversity of eithe

whom have left thei the north or the south,

mark: Malay, Chinese, the imperial kitchens at
Indian, Thai, French, Hue had to show an
and American. The A simple but refined meal in Hue, once the political centre and today still an important enormous amount of
Chinese offered thei culinary city. ingenuity by refining


use of beancurd ordinary dishes until
soy beans, and spices such as the star anise. The use of dill in cha ca, they became something truly special, so that eating could be viewed
Hanoi's famous fish dish served at the popular Cha Ca La Vong as art, ritual and sensory pleasure at the same time.
restaurant, and also in fish congee, could have been a French A typical imperial banquet today would include up to a dozen
influence. The Indians left their ground rice pancakes. dishes, such as a beautifully fragrant, peppery chicken soup with



At the heart of Vietnamese cuisine is the salty, pale brown lotus seeds (sup ga), crisp, golden brown spring rolls (nem ran), deli-



fermented fish sauce known as nuoc mam. The cuisines of Cambodia cate rice flour patties stuffed with minced shrimp (banh Hue), grilled


Thailand and Burma use a similar sauce, however, the Vietnamese pork in rice paper (thit nuong) served with a tasty peanut sauce, deli-



variety seems to have a particularly pungent flavor. Nuoc mam is cious crab claws stuffed with pork (cuaphich bot), and the famous

made by layering fresh anchovies with salt in huge wooden barrels, a minced shrimp wrapped around sugar cane (cha torn lui mia or chao



process that takes about six months and involves pouring the liquid torn). Main dishes might include fish grilled in banana leaf (ca nuong



which drips from the barrel back over the anchovies. Arguably, the la chuoi), pungent beef in wild betel leaves (bo la lot), rice with vegeta-

best nuoc mam comes from the island of Phu Quoc near the bles (com Hue), gently sauteed shrimp with mushrooms (torn xao


Cambodian border hanh nam), and finally the glutinous rice dessert husband-and-wif


Nuoc mam cham, the ubiquitous dip made of ^nuoc mam diluted cake (phu the), which comes in a perfectly formed little box made
with lime juice, vinegar, water, crushed garlic, and fresh red chilies from pandan leaf

is used as a dipping sauce at the table, served with dishes like cha gio These dishes are actually variations of those served in other part


(spring rolls) and chao torn (sugar cane shrimp), or simply as a dip for of Vietnam, and the ingredients may be vegetables, eggs or fish,
pieces of fish or meat. rather than exotic sea delicacies or the best cuts of meat. What set



What sets Vietnamese cuisine apart from that of other Southeas these dishes apart is the sophisticated cooking techniques and the


Asian countries is the pervasive use of fresh leaves and herbs, mak- careful presentation

____________________________________________________________________________ ~I VIETNAMI 173



For example. the favorite chao tom lui mia seems so simple-if let alone interest in what to buy at the market and how to perfect a
only! Tiny shrimp are carefully shelled. then marinated in nuoc mam. particular recipe. But since the mid-l 9 80s. a combination of eco-
They are then pounded until they form a thick paste. and egg white. nomic upturn and the return of many overseas Vietnamese (encour-
onion. garlic. sugar. and pepper added. The mixture is pounded again aged by the government to start new businesses) has resulted in.
with a touch of pork fat. and finally wrapped around sugar cane among other things. the rebirth of a thriving restaurant scene.
sticks and grilled. Culinary skills are being relearned. courses for the training of
The presentation of food was-and is-very important. not only professional chefs are being launched and the Vietnamese are once
in the use of color and the arrangement of food on the plate. but also again discovering the joys of cooking. Top-quality. fresh ingredients
in the manner of serving. Rice. for example. might be draped with an are widely available.
omelet coat. or cooked inside a lotus leaf and further enhanced with All over Ho Chi Minh City and. to a slightly lesser extent. in
the addition of delicate lotus seeds. Hanoi, restaurants are built around courtyards in French colonial
Portions are delicate. since perhaps dozens of dishes are served buildings or designed to resemble old Vietnamese family homes.
in the course of a meal. All these naturally increased the length of French restaurants are once again establishing themselves and fash-
preparation time. with the result that the number of cooks and ionable Italian restaurants are making an appearance.
kitchen staff reached unprecedented heights-a luxury which Vietnamese cuisine is based on rice. fish. and fresh vegetables.
perfectly befitted the privileged life of an emperor. Little oil is used in cooking. except for deep-frying. and salads are
The most talented proponents of imperial cuisine today are virtually lightly dressed. Healthy. invigorating soups such as the tasty canh
all women. each of them descended by some route or other from chua thom ca loc are featured on menus. fresh fruit and delicious
imperial households. Due to its size and relatively small population. home-made yogurts are often served for dessert. and drinks like
Hue today is not a culinary mecca compared with Ho Chi Minh City freshly squeezed sugar cane juice are widely available.
or Hanoi. There is. however. a renewed interest in the cuisine of Hue. Modern Vietnamese cuisine is a marriage of the old and the new.
and a number of modern Vietnamese chefs have made it their mis- Recipes from past generations are coupled with new dishes created
sion to turn the simple art of cooking into something extraordinary. for the increasingly sophisticated and well-traveled local consumer. A
good example is thit kho to. pork cooked slowly in a claypot. a dish of
peasant origins that now appears on restaurant menus alongside cua
The Food of the People rang me. a fried crab dish richly perfumed with tamarind.
Through the more than four troubled decades of constant struggle
and fighting in Vietnam. there was barely enough rice to go around. Baguettes at a food stall are a reminder of Vietnam's colonial past.

174 I THE FOOD OF ASIA IL-______________________________________________________________ _


The sometimes lengthy preparation times and cooking processes The home and its kitchen are central to Vietnamese culture. A
required by Vietnamese cuisine can render it something of a luxury week before Tet, the god of the hearth (Tao Quan) must be supplicat-
for people with busy lives, so many chefs and teachers within ed with a ceremony performed in the kitchen, where offerings of
Vietnam have begun experimenting with new and innovative meth- fruit, paper models of luxury consumer goods and a ceremonial cos-
ods that preserve the spirit of the cuisine, but allow it to be prepared tume are placed on the altar.
quickly and simply at home. Traditional Vietnamese cooks generally squat, feet tucked
As this move towards quicker cooking has been evolving, there beneath them, preparing much of their food on the floor around the
has also been a resurgence of interest in the traditional dishes of the stove on a wet, tiled area, where all utensils, pots, pans, and food
Hue court. While more attention is being paid to the presentation of items are cleaned before use. Even as incomes gradually increase and
food, very few changes, if any, are made to cater to the tourist trade. some of the modern conveniences (refrigerators, plumbed sinks,
What changes are occurring in the recipes are subtle and often built-in work surfaces, and electric rice cookers) are making their
imperceptible: ga bop, a chicken salad flavored with onion, rau ram way into a number of Vietnamese kitchens, much of the preparation
(laksa leaf or polygonum) and a simple seasoning of salt, pepper, and and cooking is still done in the traditional manner.
lime juice, has traditionally been made with chicken skin and bones, Most of the cooking is done over an open hearth (ovens are not
but new restaurants are preparing it with lean chicken meat. used), with one member of the family on duty to fan the flames. A
wok is still the most versatile implement in any Vietnamese kitchen,
usually set over a wood fire. Grilling is another common cooking
The Vietnamese Table and Kitchen method. A large pot is standard for soups and stocks, and since rice is
Eating in Vietnam is a shared experience, an informal ritual. On the the staple, a simple rice cooker with its lid is usually steaming away
small table that the family has gathered around is a large bowl of on a low fire.
steaming rice, a cauldron of aromatic soup, a meat dish, a vegetable As in other countries, food stalls are a popular haunt, both for
dish, and a generous plate of leaves for each diner to wrap around a local gossip and a quick meal. and usually appear on the sidewalks in
delicious hand roll and dip into the nuoc mam cham. Tea is drunk front of old shophouses. Clusters of tiny chairs and tables surround
throughout the meal. a steaming hot cauldron of soup set on an open flame, with people
The adage "the fresher the ingredients, the better the food," is huddled over their morning bowl of restorative pho. At another
especially true of Vietnamese cooking. The various herbs and let- streetside restaurant, a team of busy female chefs is busy making
tuces are almost always served raw, and salads are never over- open-faced omelets in blackened pans over small charcoal grills. Or
dressed, so that the full flavors are present. Vegetables and fish in it may be vendors with carts filled with baguettes, cheese, sliced pate,
particular, which make up a large part of the Vietnamese diet, are and sausages making sandwiches. It's all in a day's work.
gently cooked and lightly seasoned, allowing the true flavors of the
food to come through. The result of time-consuming preparation is a memorable dining experience.

SUGGESTED MENUS

Family meals A dinner party One-pot meals A melting pot menu

Most of the recipes in the appe- The noodle soups of Vietnam
• Stuffed Steamed Rice Wrapper • Simmered Winter Squash
Rolls (page 176); tizers section lend themselves deserve honorable mention. so (page 101) from Japan;
• Stuffed Squid (page 182). Stir- readily to dinner-party nibbles. for breakfast. lunch or dinner. do • Squid with Bamboo Shoots
Fried Vegetables with Fish so try serving as the locals do and try one of from China (page 44)
Sauce (page 180) and Pork • a selection of fried and steamed the follOwing: and from Vietnam. Fried
Stew with Coconut Juice rice paper rolls (pages • Hanoi Chicken Soup Grouper with Ginger Sauce
(page 184) served with rice; 176-77) with a few dipping (page 178); (page 183). served with
• Husband and Wife Cakes sauces; • Beef Noodle Soup (page 178); rice and a simple salad or
(page 186). • Banana Blossom Salad with • Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles stir-fried vegetables;
Duck and Ginger (page 179). (page 185). Very satisfying! • freshly sliced seasonal fruits.
Or. lead off with the such as mangoes or
• Preserved Salted Fish Stew served either from a platter pineapple.
(page 181); followed by in the middle or in individual
• Shrimp and Green Mango portions;
Salad (page 179). Fried • Braised Mushrooms with Soy
Beancurd with Lemongrass Sauce (page 180). Spicy
(page 185) and Grilled Beef River Shrimp (page 182)
in Wild Betel Leaves (page and a Spicy Beef Stew
185) served with rice; (page 185) served with rice;
• Banana Cake (page 186) is a • Pineapple Tartlets (page 186)
popular way to finish. and vanilla ice cream.




THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF VIETNAMESE COOKING

The key to Vietnamese cuisine is freshness. so choose the best of available herbs and leaves for the table salad: Iaksa leaf (daun kesum).
lettuces. beansprouts. basil, and cilantro. These also accompany rice paper rolls. Chilies are sliced into nuoc mam for dippirig sauces.
Flavorings widely used include garlic. lemongrass. shallots, and scallions. Rice is a must.

176 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L____________________________________________________ ~I APPETIZERS
I


The freshness and exuberance thin slices. Follow the same steps Fresh Rice Flour Wrappers
of Vietnamese food is no more as for wrapping the pork roll 1 cup (160 g) rice flour
evident than in the range of using lettuce, basil, mint, chilies, 3 cups (750 ml) water
hand rolls they make, which beansprouts, and chives. Serve Salt
make use fragrant, crispy leaves with Peanut Sauce (page 187).
and a little meat or seafood. Garnish
The rolls are filling and sub- HELPFUL HINT 1/4 cup (10 g) cilantro
stantial without heaviness. (coriander) leaves
If you fi nd that the dried wrap-
1/2 cup (50 g) fried
pers do not soften sufficently
shallots
when you wipe them, soak
1 red chili, shredded
them in tepid water until flexi-
Goi Cuon ble. Place on a tea towel to
Shrimp Rolls soak up any excess moisture Sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
and proceed with the recipe.
1/2 cup (125 ml) water Work in small batches. 1/4 cup (60 ml)
2 tablespoons white vinegar water
1 tablespoon rice wine 2 tablespoons fish
1/2 teaspoon salt sauce
1 Ib (500 g) shrimp, with shells on 1 tablespoon rice wine
2 tablespoons vegetable oil Banh Cuon vinegar
8 oz (200 g) pork loin Stuffed Steamed 1 tablespoon fresh lime
20 pieces dried rice paper Rice Wrapper Rolls juice
1 medium head butter lettuce 1 medium red chili, shredded
1 cup (40 g) fresh basil leaves This is a variation on the spring 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (40 g) fresh mint leaves rolls that use freshly steamed
wrappers. The steaming of the To make the stuffing, soak the
2 small red chilies, thinly sliced
fresh rice flour wrappers is wood ear mushrooms in water
1 cup (80 g) beansprouts
actually quite easy and fun for 1 hour, drain and dice. Heat Shrimp Mousse on Sugar Cane
1 bunch chives, cut in 3 to 4-in
once you get the hang of it. oil in a wok and saute the shallots,
(8 to 10-cm) lengths
garlic, radish, pork, and mush- around in a circular motion. If
In a skillet, combine water, vine- Stuffing rooms until tender. Set aside. possible, cover with an inverted
gar, rice wine, and salt. Bring to 1/2 cup (15 g) dried wood ear · To prepare wrappers, mix bowl or lid, and leave for a few
a boil. Add shrimp, simmer until mushrooms flour, water, and salt to form the moments. Remove the steamed
just done. Cool and peel. Heat Water to cover batter. Fill steamer two-thirds full rice flour wrapper with a spatula,
oil in a separate pan, sear pork 2 tablespoons vegetable oil of water, double and stretch a carefully lifting up at the corners.
in pan for about 2 minutes or 8 shallots, chopped piece of cheesecloth tightly over Repeat until all the batter is used.
until lightly browned all over. 1 clove garlic, crushed the top and secure it with string. Set wrapper on a smooth surface.
Add liqUid from cooking shrimp 1 cup (150 g) finely diced pre When water begins boiling, brush To make the sauce, dissolve
to the pan, simmer pork for 15 served white radish the surface of the cheesecloth sugar in water, add fish sauce,
minutes or until tender. Remove 10 oz (300 g) minced pork or with oil, pour on a small ladle of vinegar, and lime juice. Add
from heat, drain and cut into shrimp rice flour batter and spread it finely chopped chili and garlic
before serving.
Grilled Beef Roll with fish sauce dip (left) and Hue Spring Roll with shrimp paste dip (right) Place roughly 1 tablespoon
of filling on the wrapper. Roll up
gently. Garnish with cilantro,
shallots, and chili and serve
with the sauce.




Banh Uot Thit Nuong
Grilled Beef Roll

1 stem lemongrass, finely chopped
1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce
12 oz (400 g) beef, thinly sliced
5 fresh steamed rice flour
wrappers (see previous recipe)
1/2 cup (20 g) fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup (20 g) fresh basil leaves
1/2 head butter lettuce
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
1/2 cup (20 g) fresh cilantro
(coriander) leaves

Dipping Sauce
1 cup (250 ml) Yellow Bean Sauce
(see page 187)

APPETIZERS LI ______________________________________________________________ ~I VIETNAM I 177



4 tablespoons sweet chili sauce
1 1 tablespoon finely chopped roasted Cha Gio Chao Tom Nem Nuong
peanuts
Vietnamese Spring Rolls Shrimp Mousse on Sugar Cane Minced Pork Balls on a Skewer
Combine lemongrass, sugar,
and fish sauce. Marinate beef in These are the classic, deep-fried This dish from the imperial city 1 Ib (500 g) ground lean pork neck
sauce mixture for 30 minutes, Vietnamese spring rolls, also of Hue uses fresh sticks of sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
then briefly grill over a medium referred to as Imperial Rolls. cane as skewers. The heated 8 oz (200 g) pork fatback
heat until lightly browned, but The leaves and the lettuce are cane releases a burst of sweet 2 tablespoons sugar
still rare inside. Remove from wrapped around the rolls and cane juice when bitten into. 2 cloves garlic, diced
grill and cut into small pieces. then dipped into the sauce. This is 2 red chilies, finely chopped
To make the dipping sauce, a fun recipe to experiment with. 11/4 cups (300 g) shrimp, minced Salt to taste
combine yellow bean sauce, Try using different ingredients, 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon pepper
chili sauce, and peanuts. Mix such as chicken or duck. 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons ground roasted
well. Place some of the beef, a Pinch of pepper peanuts
little of the mint, basil, and Stuffing 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce dip
lettuce leaves on a rice flour 1 Ib (500 g) lean, ground pork 8 sugar cane pieces, 4 in (10 cm) (see page 187)
wrapper, then sprinkle with 8 oz (200 g) shrimp, minced long
sesame seeds and add a cilantro 4 oz (100 g) crabmeat 1 red chili, seeded and sliced Garnish
leaf. Fold to the inside, leaving 5 shallots, finely chopped 1 cup (250 ml) sweet and sour 1 cup (80 g) beansprouts
the top end open with the 2 cloves garlic, crushed sauce (see page 187) 2 medium starfruit, peeled and
cilantro leaf extended. 2 or 3 wood ear mushrooms, 1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro (coriander) sliced
soaked in water leaves 2 medium unripe bananas, thinly
11/2 oz (45 g) cellophane noodles, sliced
soaked in water Grind or pound shrimp with salt, 1 medium cucumber, peeled and
Cuon Hue 1/2 medium carrot, cut in julienne sugar and pepper. Using the oil, sliced
Hue Spring Roll 1 egg white (optional) form the shrimp paste around 1 head butter lettuce
Pinch pepper the sugar cane until tight. Grill 1 cup (40 g) mint leaves
1 teaspoon sugar over medium charcoal heat 20 pieces rice paper
5 fresh steamed rice flour wrappers
Pinch salt until crisp and slightly browned.
(see page 176)
1 tablespoon fish sauce Serve with chili. sweet and Mix the ground pork meat with
1 large rice paper, sprinkled with
sour sauce and cilantro leaves. 1/2 teaspoon of salt and set
water
Wrapping aside. Fry the pork fatback for
8 sprigs water convolvulus 10 minutes, then cutinto very
(kangkung) 25 pieces dried rice paper HELPFUL HINT
Water small strips. Marinate with
1/2 cup (20 g) fresh fragrant Although the pounding is nor-
Vegetable oil for deep-frying mally done in a mortar, you can sugar, garlic, chili, salt, and
leaves (mixture of basil, mint,
use a blender or a food processor. pepper for 5 minutes.
and cilantro/coriander)
Garnish Crab is a good substitute for Combine the pork meats and
1 medium sweet potato, peeled,
1 cup (40 g) fragrant leaves (basil, shrimp. If grilling is not possible, shape into small balls. Place
cooked and thinly sliced
cilantro/coriander, and mint) oven bake at 375°F (190°C, gas them on a bamboo skewer
1/4 cup (20 g) steamed rice
1 small head iceberg lettuce mark 5) for about 20 minutes. (3 or 4 to a skewer) and cook
vermicelli noodles
1/4 cup (20 g) beansprouts evenly over the charcoal grill.
4 oz (100 g) lean pork, boiled and
2 tablespoons fish sauce dip Sprinkle with peanuts, fish
thinly sliced
(see page 187) sauce dip, and garnishes.
4 oz (100 g) preserved sour
2 tablespoons Carrot and Radish
shrimp
Pickles (see page 187)
Vietnamese Spring Rolls
1/2 cup (50 g) rice noodles,
Shrimp Paste Dip
softened
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
In a large bowl, combine the
1 tablespoon shrimp paste
stuffing ingredients; mix
1 sweet potato, boiled and mashed
thoroughly.
1 tablespoon sugar
Cover rice paper with
To make the dip, saute garlic in banana leaf or sprinkle with
oil until fragrant. Add shrimp water until flexible. Put a
paste, potato, and sugar. Stir heaped teaspoon of stuffing on
well, cook for a few minutes. the rice paper. Start folding the
Spread steamed rice flour left and right side of the rice
wrappers over softened rice paper paper into the center, then roll
(which makes it easier to roll up from the bottom edge away
but is discarded). Place water to the far end. Do not roll too
spinach, fragrant leaves, sweet tight, as this will cause the rolls
potato, and rice noodles in a line to split. Deep-fry over medium
along the paper. Roll tightly. heat until golden brown.
Cut into I-in (21/2 -cm) seg- Serve with fragrant leaves,
ments and display them on a lettuce, beansprouts, fish sauce
plate, topping each segment with dip, carrot and radish pickles,
a slice of pork and a shrimp. and fine rice noodles.
Serve with shrimp paste dip.

178 I THE FOOD OF ASIA ~__________________________________________________________ ~I SOUPS
I


Thin but flavorsome, soups the egg, chicken, spareribs,
are drunk throughout a meal sausage, baby leek greens,
in Vietnam rather than at the cilantro, and some of the fried
beginning as in the West. shallots; add boiling stock
The soups can be served in to cover.
individual bowls or, as is often Sprinkle with freshly ground
the case, set in one large bowl pepper, remaining fried shallots
from which everyone helps and lime juice. Serve with chilies,
themselves. beansprouts, lettuce, banana
blossom, and shrimp paste.

HELPFUL HINT
Bun Thang Vietnamese soups can be served
Hanoi Chicken Soup in individual bowls or, set in one
large bowl from which everyone
This is one of the many warm- helps themselves.
ing winter soups that is now
commonplace throughout the
country.
Pho 80
1 medium chicken
1/2 cup (80 g) dried shrimp Beef Noodle Soup
12 oz (400 g) pork spareribs, cut
This is the classic breakfast meal,
into large pieces
but it is just as delicious served
12 cups (3 liters) lightly salted
any time of day or night.
water
Pepper
1 medium piece of fresh ginger
Sugar
1 large onion
1/4 cup (60 mil fish sauce BeeJNoodle Soup
10 cups (2 1/2 liters) water
1/2 cup (60 g) diced shallots
2 Ib (1 kg) beef bones
4 baby leek stalks or scallions 1/2 cup (20 g) chopped ngo gai Grill ginger and onion until the
12 oz (400 g) beef brisket
(spring onions), finely cut (saw· leaf herb) leaves skins are burnt. In a deep pan,
Pinch of salt
1 medium onion, sliced 1/2 cup (20 g) chopped cilantro combine water, bones, and beef
3 pieces star anise
4 cups (400 g) fine rice noodles, (coriander) leaves brisket. Bring to a boil, skimming
1 cinnamon stick
blanched frequently, to remove residue. Add
Salt
1 egg, beaten, fried and cut into Garnish salt, grilled ginger, and onion,
Pepper
strips 1 tablespoon chili sauce star anise and cinnamon. Cook
1 cup (80 g) beansprouts
10 oz (300 g) Vietnamese sausage, 3 tablespoons yellow bean sauce for 1 hour or until tender, then
8 oz (250 g) rice noodles
cut into thin strips (see page 187)
8 oz (250 g) raw beef sirloin, remove the cooked beef and
2 baby leek or scallion (spring onion) 2 small red chilies, sliced
thinly sliced slice it very thinly. Strain the
greens, chopped 2 limes, cut into wedges
1 medium onion, sliced soup into a separate container,
3 tablespoons finely chopped Mint leaves
1/4 cup (35 g) finely cut baby adding salt and pepper to taste.
cilantro (coriander) leaves Ngo gai leaves
leeks or scallions (spring onions) Wash and drain beansprouts.
1/4 cup (20 g) fried shallots Cilantro (coriander) leaves
Quickly blanch rice noodles and
Fresh ground pepper Clam Soup
1 lime, cut into wedges bean sprouts in boiling water, to
soften, but do not overcook.
2 small red chilies, sliced
1 cup (80 g) beansprouts Arrange in a soup bowl. Top willi
sliced beef brisket, raw beef sir-
1 medium head butter lettuce
1 cup (140 g) shaved banana loin, sliced onion, chopped baby
blossom leeks, ngo gai, and cilantro
2 tablespoons shrimp paste leaves. Pour the boiling soup
into the bowl and sprinkle with
Boil chicken, dried shrimp, and freshly ground pepper. By that
pork ribs in lightly salted water time the raw beef should be
for about 20 minutes. Skim fat medium-cooked.
and season with pepper, sugar, Serve with chili and yellow
and fish sauce. Simmer for bean sauces, sliced chilies, lime
another 45 minutes, until the wedges, mint, ngo gai, and
chicken is cooked. Remove both cilantro leaves.
the chicken and shrimp. Let cool,
then shred the chicken. Set aside.
Add shallots, baby leeks, and HELPFUL HINT
onion to the stock. Simmer for Grill the ginger and onion over
20 minutes, season to taste. an open flame or in a pan.
Place a handful of the Chicken is a delicious alternative
blanched rice noodles in a soup to beef, and most Vietnamese
bowl and cover with a portion of restaurants offer both versions.

SALADS



Pungent with fish sauce, In a large bowl combine lotus
Vietnamese salads are a little stems, rau ram, salt,
like the Thai-the bite of chili sugar, and lime juice.
is soothed by crunchy leaves, Toss gently. Place
tempered with sweet palm sugar on a serving plate.
and finished with little crispy Cut shrimps
bits of shallots and peanuts ... in half length-
the explosion of flavors in the wise and
mouth is quite a sensation! arrange on the
Most salads are quickly and salad. Garnish
easily assembled once the with peanuts,
preparation is done, often cilantro and
requiring nothing more than a shallots. Serve
light toss with a small amount with fish sauce
of dressing just before serving. dip and prawn
crackers.


Goi Ngo Sen
Lotus Stem Salad with Shrimps Goi Muc
Squid Salad Lotus Stem Salad with Shrimps
The lotus flower is the symbol of
purity. The stems have a crisp, Piquant, sweet, and hot, the
crunchy texture similar to celery, flavors of this salad really get the HELPFUL HINT
which can be used as a substitute. tastebuds working. Squid is easy Goi Vit Bap Chuoi
In Vietnam, as elsewhere in
to work with but becomes rub- Asia, the squid is criss-crossed Banana Blossom Salad with
2S0 g (8 oz) cleaned lotus stems, bery if overcooked, so barely cook with tiny cuts before cooking Duck and Ginger
cut into S cm (2 in) lengths the squid and quickly plunge it to achieve decorative patterns.
1 tablespoon rau ram (polygonum) into iced water to keep its texture. Squid can also be tenderized by The richness of duck is combined
leaves, finely chopped soaking it in milk for a day with ginger in this unusual salad.
1 teaspoon salt 1 Ib (SOO g) cleaned squid before cooking.
Il/2 tablespoons sugar 4 cups (I liter) water 1 young banana blossom,
1 tablespoon lime juice 2 tablespoons lime juice finely cut
6 medium shrimps, cooked, 1/4 cup (60 ml) rice wine 2 cups (SOO ml) iced 'water
peeled and deveined 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon peanuts, coarsely 1 teaspoon sesame oil Goi Xoai Xanh 2 duck breasts
ground 1 teaspoon sugar Tom Hap 1/2 cup (12S ml) fish sauce dip
3 tablespoons cilantro (coriander) Shrimp and Green Mango Salad (see page 187)
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
leaves 1/2 cup (80 g) thinly sliced baby 1 teaspoon finely cut rau ram
2 tablespoons fried shallots This is essentially a variation on (polygonum leaves)
celery
(page 187) the traditional Vietnamese
1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro (coriander) 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
80 ml (1/3 cup) fish sauce dip shrimp salad, using tart, unripe
leaves 1 tablespoon coarsely ground
(see page 187) mango instead of lotus root.
1 small red chili, finely chopped peanuts
6 prawn crackers Green papaya may also be used.
1/3 cup (SO g) pickled baby leeks 1 tablespoon fried shallots
or shallots (optional) 1/4 cup (IO g) cilantro (coriander)
Squid Salad
2 tablespoons crushed peanuts 12 medium shrimp leaves
1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce dip 1 cup (ISO g) finely sliced green
see page 187) mango Place the sliced banana blossom
Rice crackers, to garnish 1 tablespoon chopped rau ram in cold water with lemon juice,
(polygonum) leaves and let soak for 1 hour. Boil
Cut squid crosswise, 1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce dip (or steam) the duck in a shallow
in narrow sections, (see page 187) saucepan with a little water
about 2 in (5 em) until tender. Let cool, remove
long. Bring large Garnish skin and cut into thin slices.
pan of water 1 small red chili, finely sliced Drain the banana blossom,
to a boil and 2 tablespoons fried shallots then toss in a large bowl with
blanch sqUid 2 tablespoons chives fish sauce dip, rau ram, ginger,
quickly (1 to 2 peanuts, and the sliced duck.
I minutes). Cool Peel and devein the shrimp. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle
down in ice Quickly steam in a pan with with fried shallots. Garnish with
water, to pre- very little water until bright cilantro leaves.
serve soft texture. pink and tender. Remove from
Combine remain- pan and cool. In a large bowl, HELPFUL HINT
ing ingredients combine the shrimp, mango, If you can't find banana blossom,
with the squid. rau ram, and fish sauce dip. use shaved celery. In addition to
Mix well in a large Toss well. Arrange on a platter. boiling, the duck breast can be
bowl. Arrange on a Top with chili, shallots and baked, fried or grilled.
platter. Serve with rice chives.
crackers.

180 I THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A L-_____________________________________________________ I MAIN DISHES


These dishes are meant to be
served as part of a shared
meal with steamed jasmine
rice. Seafood and fish are very
popular in Vietnam, and
cooked in many styles.



Nam Xao Nuoe luong
Braised Mushrooms with
Soy Sauce

The sweet, soy sauce gravy really
lifts the bland flavor of the
mushrooms. Any variety of
large mushrooms will do and
different types can be mixed
together for variety.

8 oz (200 g) straw mushrooms
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Pinch of pepper
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup (60 mil water
Freshly cracked pepper
Cilantro (coriander) leaves
Rinse the mushrooms, pat dry Stir-fried Vegetables with Fish Sauce
on absorbent paper towels.
Saute garlic in oil until lightly Salt 1 tablespoon scallions (spring 1 cup (120 g) baby corn
browned and fragrant, add 1 teaspoon sugar onions), finely sliced 1 cup (75 g) black mushrooms
mushrooms, stirring quickly, Cilantro (coriander) leaves Cilantro (coriander) leaves 1 cup (200 g) tender kale or
then season with pepper, salt, 2 tablespoon sliced rau ram broccoli stems
sugar, and soy sauce. Add water (polygonum) leaves Sauce 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
and simmer for three minutes. 1 medium red chili, minced 1 tablespoon rice wine
Spoon onto a serving dish and Place pumpkin, sweet potatoes, 11/2 tablespoons crushed peanuts 2 tablespoons fish sauce
sprinkle with fresh cracked mushrooms, and thin coconut i/4 cup (60 mil fish sauce 2 cloves garlic, crushed
pepper and cilantro leaves. milk in a deep saute pan. Bring 1/2 teaspoon sugar or honey Salt
to a boil and simmer until nearly 3 tablespoons water Pepper
done. Add the thick coconut
milk, peanuts, and loofah and Cut eggplants in half and brush Blanch the vegetables in lightly
Canh Bi Ro Ham Dua bring to a boil again. Remove with some of the oil. Grill over salted boiling water, remove and
Braised Pumpkin with from heat. Season to taste with an open flame or under a place in a large bowl of cold water.
Coconut Milk salt and sugar. broiler, turning regularly, until Using a wok or large saute pan,
Serve in a bowl and sprinkle the skin turns a darkish brown heat the oil, then stir-fry the
This is a traditional Buddhist with fresh cilantro and rau ram and the flesh is soft. Peel off the drained vegetables, adding the
vegetarian dish finished with leaves. skin and discard. Fry the shallots rice wine. Finish the stir-fry
raw peanuts. in the remaining oil until light with fish sauce and garlic.
gold in color. Remove and drain Season with salt and pepper to
2 cups (230 g) peeled 3/4-in on paper towel. Combine the taste. Serve with steamed rice.
(2-cm) pumpkin cubes Ca Tim Nuong ingredients for the sauce and
2 cups (300 g) 3/4-in (2-cm) Grilled Eggplant with Crab pour over the eggplant. Serve HELPFUL HINT
sweet potato or taro root cubes garnished with the fried shallots, When blanching veg-
1/2 cup (15 g) dried wood ear This recipe is common to southern scallion, and cilantro leaves. etables, they should
Vietnam and makes surprising
mushrooms, soaked in water remain in the water
for 10 minutes, chopped use of eggplant, one of the just long enough to
2 cups (500 mil thin coconut many vegetables grown in slightly soften. Place
milk central Vietnam. Rau Xao them in cold (or iced)
1/4 cup (60 mil thick coconut Stir-fried Vegetables with water immediately
cream 6 long (Japanese) eggplants Fish Sauce after cooking to
ensure a crisp texture.
1/2 cup (80 g) raw peanuts, (aubergine)
soaked in warm water 1/4 cup (60 mil cooking oil 12 cups (3 liters) salted water
1/2 cup (80 g) thinly sliced loofah 11/2 cups (180 g) cooked crabmeat 1 1 cup (110 g) sliced carrots
(or green zucchini/courgette) 2 tablespoons fried shallots 1 cup (200 g) cauliflower pieces

MAIN DISHES I L _________________________________________________________ I VIETNAM I 181


done. Mix with steamed rice and
stir well. If egg is used, add to
the fried mixture at the same
time as the rice. Remove from
heat and place on lotus leaf.
Sprinkle with chopped baby
leek. Fold into a neat package.
Note: As a substitute for
lotus leaf, use either a large
grape, fig, or banana leaf.



Mam Kho
Preserved Salted Fish Stew

This hearty stew calls for mam
sac (salted fish), considered a
delicacy in Vietnam. Substitute
halibut, mackerel, or cod for the
snake-head mullet.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup (60 g) finely chopped
shallots
1/4 cup (25 g) sliced fresh pork belly
11/2 cups cubed eggplant
(aubergine)
1/3 cup (30 g) finely chopped
lemongrass
Preserved Salted Fish Stew 1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
21/2 cups (625 ml) water
1 Ib (500 g) water convolvulus, Blanch spinach in boiling water 10 oz (300 g) salted fish (mam sac)
10 oz (300 g) snake-head mullet
Rau Muong Xao Tuong (kangkung), washed and drain well. Fry garlic and 2 small red chilies, seeded and
Pan-fried Water Convolvulus 2 cloves garlic, crushed leeks in oil until soft, then add sliced
with Yellow Bean Sauce 2 baby leeks or scallions (spring the vegetable and yellow bean 2 teaspoons sugar
onions), finely sliced (white sauce. Fry over high heat. 1/2 cup (80 g) shrimp, peeled and
Water convolvulus, which is part only) Season with salt and pepper. washed
available in many specialist 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon finely sliced scallions
Asian grocery shops, has hol- 2 tablespoons yellow bean sauce (spring onions)
low, crunchy stems. The best (see page 187) 1 tablespoon fried garlic (optional)
substitute is mature spinach. Salt Com Hoang Bao
Pepper Imperial Rice Heat oil in a large pan, add garlic,

Grilled Eggplant with Crab The dried lotus leaf used to shallots, pork belly eggplant,
lemongrass, and pepper. Saute
wrap the rice imparts a slight 5 minutes.
smokiness to this dish. In a large saucepan, add water
and both types of fish; bring to
4 shallots, chopped a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes.
2 tablespoons cooking oil Remove the fish, debone and set
1 cup (100 g) pork (or chicken), aside. Strain the stock, then boil
diced again, adding the sliced chili,
1 cup (100 g) small shrimp sugar, and the pork/eggplant
4 oz (100 g) dried lotus seeds, mixture. Simmer for 5 minutes
boiled and drained or until reduced by one-third.
1/4 teaspoon salt Add shrimp and cook for another
1 pinch pepper 3 mirlUtes. Set a portion of the
1 bowl steamed rice fish in individual bowls. Add
1 egg, fried and chopped stock. Serve garnished with
(optional) scallions and fried garlic.
1 large lotus leaf There are many different
2 baby leeks or scallions (spring grades of mam sac, however, any
onions), chopped dried or salted fish will work with
this recipe-salted cod is a good
Quickly saute shallots in oil. choice. Rinse and clean the salted
Add pork, shrimp, lotus seeds, fish thoroughly. Soak for 10 to
salt, and pepper. Cook until 15 minutes and brush clean.

182 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L-____________________________________________________ I MAIN DISHES



ingredients in a bowl and mix 1 tablespoon finely chopped
Muc Nhoi Thit Stuff well. Add seasoning. the lemongrass
Stuffed Squid squid sacs with the mixture and 1 tablespoon thick soy sauce
secure with a small toothpick. 1 teaspoon sesame oil
To prepare the sauce, saute 1 tablespoon lime juice
Use squid tentacles in the stuff-
ing mixture and save the sacs shallots and garlic in butter until 1 teaspoon sugar
for stuffing. soft. Add stuffed squid and saute
on both sides for about 10 minutes Rub the squid with salt and rinse.
or until slightly browned and Slit and flatten the squid sac and
10 medium washed and cleaned cooked through. Remove from make diagonal cuts on the inside
squid (use the tentacles in the pan, set aside and keep warm. surface. Cut into bite-sized pieces.
stuffing mixture and save the Add tomatoes, and salt and Combine marinade ingredients.
sacs for stuffing)
pepper to taste to the pan. and then marinate squid for 1 hour.
simmer until the tomatoes have Grill squid over a charcoal
Stuffing
been reduced to a thick sauce. grill. until just tender (about
1 tablespoon peanut oil
Place squid on a large platter 2 minutes each side). Arrange
3 tablespoons finely sliced shallots and remove toothpicks. Pour the on a serving platter and garnish
1 clove garlic, finely sliced tomato sauce over the squid. with cilantro. Serve with fish
1 Ib (500 g) lean, ground pork Garnish with cilantro and fresh sauce dip (see page 187).
1/4 cup (15 g) cellophane noodles
ground pepper. For a variation
6 wood ear mushrooms, soaked
on the cooking technique. try HELPFUL HINT
in water for 10 minutes, then
grilling the squid.
finely chopped Th is is a versati Ie mari nade,
su itable for other types of fish
1 teaspoon five-spice powder
or poultry.
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Muc Nuong
10 sets of squid tentacles, finely
chopped
Grilled Squid
Seasoning Grilled meats and seafood are very Tom Cang Kho
Pinch salt
popular in Vietnam and many Spicy River Shrimp
Pinch pepper
recipes, like this. rely upon the
1 teaspoon sugar
specific flavors imparted from This is a southern recipe that calls Fried Grouper with Ginger Sauce
the open wood-burning grill. for giant. freshwater shrimp,
Sauce and Garnish which are often as big as lobsters. 1/4 cup (60 ml) rice wine
1/4 cup (30 g) diced shallots
1 Ib (500 g) cleaned squid 4 cloves garlic, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon salt 3 cloves garlic, finely diced 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup butter or oil
1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro (coriander) 1 small red chili, finely chopped 1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped baby
3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded
leaves 2 tablespoons cooking oil leeks or scallions (spring onions),
and chopped
1 teaspoon cracked black white part only, cut in
Salt and pepper
Marinade peppercorns I-in (2 1 /2-cm) pieces
Cilantro (coriander) leaves
Pinch of pepper 2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons fish sauce
Freshly ground pepper
2 cloves garl ic, crushed 1/4 cup (60 mil fish sauce 1 teaspoon crushed white pepper
For the stuffing, heat oil in pan, 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1/2 cup (125 mil water
add shallots and garlic, cook, 1 teaspoon five-spice powder 6 giant shrimp, unpeeled Clean the crabs. take off the
stirring until soft. Combine shallot 1 teaspoon curry powder 1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro (coriander) tops. rinse thoroughly, cut in
mixture with the other stuffing leaves half and break the claws. Heat
Crab with Tamarind Sauce peanut oil in wok until very hot.
~=~~~.,.:.. In a deep pan. saute garlic and deep-fry crabs for 30 seconds. or
chili in oil until soft. Add pep- until color changes. Set on paper
percorns, sugar. fish sauce, water, towels to absorb excess oil.
and shrimp. Cook uncovered for Dissolve tamarind pulp in rice
10 minutes, or until the shrimp wine. In a large pan or wok. saute
turn bright pink. Remove shrimp garlic in vegetable oil until soft,
and arrange on a platter. Reduce add crab and continue cooking
the stock until slightly sticky. for 2 to 3 minutes on a high heat.
Pour over the shrimp and Add tamarind mixture, fish sauce,
garnish with cilantro. and pepper. Reduce for another
2 minutes, then add baby leeks.
Remove from heat. Place crabs on
a platter and pour tamarind sauce
Cua Rang Voi over. Serve with steamed rice.
Sot Me Note: Although this dish is
Crab with Tamarind traditionally prepared in a wok.
Sauce the use of a deep-fryer might make
the cooking easier. You can also
4 whole medium crabs substitute freshly ground black
Peanut oil for deep-frying pepper. although white pepper is
1 tablespoon tamarind often the preferred ingredient of
pulp Vietnamese cooks.

MAIN DISHES L____________________________________________________________ ~I VIETNAM I 183
I


1 tablespoon diced garlic
2 tablespoons diced shallots Mu Chien Voi Gung
2 tablespoons finely chopped Fried Grouper with Ginger Sauce
lemongrass
1 tablespoon finely chopped red
Vietnam boasts an abundance
chili of ocean and freshwater fish.
3 tablespoons finely chopped wood Ginger and galangal, both mem-
ear mushrooms bers of the ginger family, have
2 tablespoons vegetable oil been used to impart their unique
1 tablespoon five-spice powder
flavors to this dish.
1 tablespoon Vietnamese curry
powder
1 whole grouper or sea bass, about
3/4 Ib (400 g) baby eel, finely
2 Ib (1 kg), slit along both sides
chopped
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
peanuts
2 tablespoons oil
1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro (coriander)
2 tablespoons finely chopped
leaves
scallions (spring onions)
1 red chili, thinly sliced
Sesame seed rice crackers
Sauce
Saute garlic, shallots, lemon- 1 tablespoon oil
grass, chili, and mushrooms in 3 fresh shiitake mushrooms,
the oil. Add five-spice powder, julienned
curry and eel. Saute for 5 min- 2 tablespoons julienned ginger
utes, or until eel is cooked. Place 1 tablespoon finely sliced lemon
on a platter and garnish with grass
peanuts, cilantro, and chili. 2 red chilies, julienned
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Serve with crackers.
1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce
1/2 cup (125 ml) water (or chicken
HELPFUL HINT or fish stock)
Wood ear mushrooms are used
primarily for texture. However, Combine the sauce ingredients,
any fresh mushroom that adds simmer on low heat for 5 min-
Cua Hap Bia Ca Chep Kho Rieng texture and flavor is a good utes and set aside. Salt and
Crab in Beer Broth Braised Carp with substitute. Some dried varieties pepper the fish, brush with oil
will also work.
Galangal Sauce and broil slowly on both sides
This innovative dish, which uses until the fish is cooked. Place
beer in its broth, is said to have Use this recipe with a variety of fish on a large platter, pour the
been developed by a French whole fish, steaks or fillets. sauce over the fish and garnish
colonial administrator. with scallions.
6 carp or halibut steaks, each Crab in Beer Broth
4 whole large crabs, about 3 1 /2 Ib 4 oz (100 g)
(11/2 kg), rinsed, cleaned, and 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
cut in half 2 tablespoons julienned galangal
2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon sa It 1/2 tablespoon caramel syrup
1/2 teaspoon pepper (see page 187)
1 teaspoon sesame oil 1/2 cup (125 ml) water
1 tablespoon oyster sauce '
Saute fish in oil with galangal.
1 clove garlic, crushed
Add fish sauce, caramel syrup,
1 large onion, cut into wedges
1 large tomato, cut into wedges and water. Braise slowly on
1 red chili, sliced both sides until fish is done.
3/4 cup (180 ml) beer Arrange on a platter. Serve
with steamed rice.
1 cup (60 g) watercress
1 tablespoon fried garlic (optional)
Fry crabs in vegetable oil with
salt, pepper, sesame oil, oyster Luon Xao Lan Xuc
sauce, and garlic over a very Banh Trang Me
high heat for 5 minutes. Add Minced Eel with Sesame Seed
onion, tomato, and chili. Stir Rice Crackers
fry quickly and add beer. Cover
and simmer for 10 minutes or This recipe must have been
until crabs are cooked. Serve created to make use of sesame
rice crackers-the mixture is
garnished with watercress and perfect for dipping into.
fried garlic.

184 I THE FOOD OF ASIA L__________________________________________________ ~I MAIN DISHES
I


Pour the marinade over the
chicken. Place in oven at 375°F
Pork Stew with Coconut Juice (190°C, gas mark 5). Cha Lua
Baste the chicken with the Pork Sausage
remaining marinade 1 every
10 to 15 minutes. Bake until 1 Ib (500 g) pork loin
skin is a golden brown and 8 oz (200 g) meat from small pig's
chicken is well cooked. head, or increase Pork loin
Cut up the chicken and 2 cups (500 ml) salted water
assemble on a serving platter. 1/4 cup (60 ml) cooking oil
Serve with deep-fried sweet 5 shallots, diced
buns or steamed sticky rice. 2 cloves garlic, crushed
Helpful hint: Basting is the 1/2 cup (IS g) wood ear mushrooms,
secret to this recipe. finely chopped
2 tablespoons cracked black
pepper
1/4 cup (35 g) sesame seeds,
Thit Heo Kho toasted
Nuoe Dua 2 eggs, beaten
Pork Stew with Coconut Juice 1 large banana leaf
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 limes, cut into wedges
2 Ib (1 kg) pork leg, cut into 3-oz
(IOO-g) pieces
Boil pork and pig's head in salted
3 tablespoons vegetable oil water for 20 minutes, drain and
4 cups (I liter) young coconut juice debone; cut into small cubes.
5 eggs, hard-boiled and peeled
Heat oil in a large skillet, cook
shallots and garlic until soft.
Marinade
Add pork, mushrooms, and
Marinade 2 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Ca Nau Ngot 3 tablespoons honey Salt to taste peppercorns. Cook, stirring until
River Fish with Dill and Tomato 2 tablespoons sweet soy sauce 1 tablespoon palm sugar mushrooms are soft; finish with
1 tablespoon lime juice 4 tablespoons fish sauce sesame seeds. Remove from
6 cups (11/2 liters) light chicken heat, stir eggs through pork
1 tablespoon annatto seed oil
stock (see page 187) Combine marinade ingredients mixture.
11/4 Ib (600 g) freshwater fish fil and marinate pork for 1 hour. Place mixture on the banana
1 teaspoon sesame oil
lets, cut into large chunks In either a wok or a frying leaf, wrap and tie with a string.
2 medium tomatoes, cut into Combine all the marinade pan, sear pork in heated oil. Add Steam for 2 hours (above boiling
wedges 1 ingredients. Use half of the coconut juice. Skim the top, water). Unwrap and slice thinly.
Salt marinade to rub onto the outside reduce heat and simmer until Serve with fish sauce and lime
Pepper and inside of the chicken, reserve tender (30 to 45 minutes). Add wedges.
1 tablespoon chopped dill the remaining marinade. Sew the eggs and simmer another
Fresh dill chicken with a needle or a bam- 15 minutes.
boo stick. Marinate for 1 hour. Serve with preserved bean
Bring stock to a boil, add fish and Set chicken in a baking pan. sprouts, pickled or preserved
simmer for 5 minutes. Skim the Combine marinade 2 ingredients. mustard greens and steamed rice.
top, add the tomatoes and season
with salt, pepper, and dill. Cook Minced Pork Balls on a Skewer (left), recipe on page 177. and Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles (right)
another few minutes. Garnish
with fresh dill before serving. ~-



Ga Quay Mat Ong
Honey-roasted Chicken

This recipe works well with any
type of fowl or game. Since con-
siderable time is involved with
the marinades and cooking, it is
probably best suited for a large
bird and special occasion.

1 large, whole chicken

Marinade 1
2 teaspoons pepper
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil

I
MAIN DISHES ~______________________________________________________ ~ __ ~
I V IE T N A M I 185
Sugar
21 wild betel leaves Bo Kho
7 wooden skewers Spicy Beef Stew
Vegetable oil
6 tablespoons cooking oil
Marinade
2 tablespoons annatto seeds
1 tablespoon five-spice powder
2 Ib (1 kg) top round (top-side)
1 tablespoon curry powder
beef, cut into large cubes
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
lemongrass
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 mil beer
1 teaspoon pepper
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
3 pieces star anise
Garnish
1 cinnamon stick
2 starfruit, thinly sliced
1 cup (130 g) thickly chopped
3 unripe bananas, thinly sliced
carrots
1 cucumber, peeled and thinly
sliced
Garnish
1 cup (250 mil fish sauce dip
1 cup (40 g) mint leaves
(see page 187)
2 red chilies, sliced
Lettuce leaves for wrapping
Salt, pepper, and lime mix (see
Combine the marinade ingredi- page 187)
ents and marinate the beef for
30 minutes. Fry pork fatback. Heat half of the oil with the
allow to cool and then cut into annatto seeds and stir quickly
3 tablespoons fish sauce until the oil takes on the red-
Dau Hu Chien Sa Pepper fine slices (vermicelli size). dish-brown color of the seeds.
Fried Beancurd with Sugar Marinate with salt and sugar Set aside, strain and remove
Lemongrass and set aside for 15 minutes. the seeds.
Soak wild betel leaves and drain.
Garnish Combine beef and pork fat, Marinate the beef cubes
1 cup (250 mil peanut oil 12 oz (400 g) rice noodles blanched mix thoroughly. then wrap mixture. Heat the remaining
11/4 Ib (600 g) beancurd, cut 2 cups (500 mil carrot and radish portions in wild betel leaf, with annatto seed oil and cook the
into 1 x 2-in (2 x 4-cm) pieces pickles (see page 187) the Shiny side of the leaf outer- remaining garlic until soft.
3 tablespoons finely chopped 1 cup (80 g) beansprouts most. The rolls should be rough- Add curry powder. beer, and
lemongrass 2 medium cucumbers, finely sliced ly 2 in (5 cm) long. Place 3 rolls marinade. Braise the beef.
1 red chili, finely chopped 1/2 cup (20 g) basil leaves on each skewer. Brush with oil adding a little water. lemon-
1/3 cup (50 g) chopped baby leeks grass. star anise. and cinnamon.
2 cloves garlic, chopped and grill on both sides for 5
or scallions (spring onions)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil minutes. until the leaves are Before the meat is tender. add
1/4 cup (60 mil peanut sauce (see
1 teaspoon five-spice powder slightly charred. Serve with carrots. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes
page 187) or until done. Serve with
Salt garnish and fish sauce dip.
Pepper garnish.
Combine the marinade ingredi-
Heat peanut oil in deep pan, ents and marinate pork for HELPFUL HINT
fry beancurd in hot oil. drain 20 minutes. You can also try addi ng fresh
rice noodles into the wrap.
on absorbent paper towels. set Skewer the pork and grill over Grape leaves may be substituted
aside. In a separate saute pan charcoal. Turn frequently so that for the betel leaves.
or wok. saute the lemongrass, the pork is evenly cooked. and
chili. and garlic in hot vegetable continue basting with the
oil until soft. Add the beancurd marinade. Serve with garnish. Grilled Beef in
and mix well. Season with five- Wild Betel Leaves
spice powder. salt, and pepper.
Set on a serving platter. Bo La Lot
Grilled Beef in Wild
Betel Leaves
Bun Thit Nuong The Vietnamese are
Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles famous for their hand rolls
and almost every dinner
1 Ib (500 g) pork loin, cut into
features two or three versions
medium cubes at the start of the meal.
Marinade
11/4 Ib (600 g) ground beef
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1 10 oz (300 g) pork fatback
1/3 cup (50 g) sliced baby leeks or
Salt
scallions (spring onions)

186 I THE F 0 0 D 0 F A S I A


As in other countries, these "ball" and cover with more rice
"desserts" are not eaten at the flour paste. Wrap into small,
end of a meal as a sweet but rectangular packages and steam
rather, throughout the day as for 10 minutes.
fillers or snacks. In any case To make the sauce, simmer
they make good finales, and coconut milk. add sugar, salt,
despite the strangeness of remaining pandan leaf juice,
some of the ingredients, all and cornstarch. Serve with
are delicious! sauce and toasted sesame seeds.


Banh Goi Banh Phu The
Wrapped Rice Cakes Husband and Wife Cakes

The name of this traditional
13/4 cups (300 g) rice flour
11/3 cups (350 g) sugar dessert comes from the two parts
that are traditionally tied togeth-
21/2 cups (625 ml) pandan leaf Put a thin layer of dough in
er with a string of coconut and
juice, or 21/2 cups (625 ml) individual cupcake tins or small
encased in a delicate box made Banh Nuong
water and 1 teaspoon pandan
of pandan leaves. molds, add a portion of the Nhan Thorn
essence stuffing and top with another
5 oz (150 g) yellow mung beans, layer of dough. Place tins in a Pineapple Tartlets
4 cups (1 liter) water
soaked in water for 5 hours or steamer and cook for 20 minutes.
1 Ib (500 g) tapioca flour
overnight When the dough is transparent, Dough
11/3 cups (350 g) sugar
1 tablespoons vanilla extract they are ready. 1 cup (225 g) soft butter
1/2 cup (45 g) shredded coconut
11/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
5 oz (150 g) yellow mung beans,
3 tablespoons sugar, pinch of salt 1/2 cup (125 ml) milk
soaked overnight
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch 4 cups (450 g) flour
2/3 cup (150 g) sugar syrup
2 tablespoons cooking oil Banh Chuoi Nuong
1 tablespoon cooking oil
6 blanched banana leaf squares, Banana Cake Filling
1 tablespoon pomelo blossom
8 x 8 in (20 x 20 cm) 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and
essence, or 1/2 tablespoon
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted This cake is also delicious served chopped
pomelo blossom essence and with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
Mix rice flour with 2/3 cup 1/2 tablespoon orange juice 1 drop vanilla extract
(175 g) sugar and 2 cups (500 20 pandan leaves (optional) 11/4 Ib (600 g) ripe bananas 1 egg, beaten
ml) pandan leaf juice. Cook over To make the dough, mix the 1 cup (220 g) sugar
a low heat, stirring constantly, water, flour, sugar, and shredded 1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk To prepare the dough, in a
until mixture thickens to a paste- coconut. Stir constantly on low 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract mixing bowl. blend butter,
lil(e consistency. In a separate pot, heat for 10 minutes. 2 tablespoons melted butter sugar and milk with a whisk.
cook mung beans with remain- For the stuffing, steam mung 7 slices of sandwich bread Add flour and continue
ing sugar and vanilla extract to a beans for 15 minutes or until whisking until the texture is
similar consistency. Cool down tender. Mash to a paste. Stir in Slice the banana diagonally smooth. Place the dough on a
and roll into small balls. sugar syrup and cooking oil. and sprinkle with half the lightly floured surface and roll
Brush cooking oil on banana Cook over low heat until thick sugar. Cook the remaining it out to a thickness of 1/8 in
leaves, then place a spoonful of then add the pomelo blossom ' sugar in coconut milk until (1/4 cm) with a rolling pin.
the rice flour paste in the middle essence and remove from heat dissolved, then add the vanilla. Press dough into a small mold
of each. Top with mung bean Remove crusts from the bread. to make shells. Cut remaining
dough into small strips.
Soak the bread in the sweetened To make the filling, place
Wrapped Rice Cakes (left) and Husband and Wife Cakes (right) coconut milk. pineapple and sugar in a
Butter a 12-in (30-cm) saucepan over a low heat and
non-stick pan. Arrange a layer stir continuously until pineapple
of banana on the bottom of the mixture thickens. Add vanilla
pan. Cover with a layer of extract. Pill shells with mixture
bread, then another layer of then lay dough strips in a '
bananas, another bread layer, crisscross over the tops of the
and then fmish with a layer of tartlets. Brush the top with
bananas. Do not add the egg. Bake in oven, at 300 0 P
remaining coconut milk. (150°C, gas mark 2), until
Drizzle the remaining butter golden brown.
over the top, then cover with foil
and bake in a preheated oven at
350°F (180°C; gas mark 4)
for 1 hour. Rest for 12 hours
before cutting.
Serve with a scoop of vanilla
ice cream, if desired.

STOCKS, SAUCES & CONDIMENTS LI ____________________________________________ ~I VIETNAM I 187




Ca Rot Nuoc luong Muoi lieu Chanh Nuoc Leo Ga
Carrot and Radish Pickles Yellow Bean Sauce Salt, Pepper; and Lime Mix Chicken Stock

1 cup (110 g) julienned carrot 1 cup (120 g) yellow beans, boiled I teaspoon salt 3 quarts (3 liters) water
[
1 cup (160 g) julienned daikon and drained 1 teaspoon pepper 3 Ib (11/2 kg) chicken
(giant white radish) 2 tablespoons coconut milk 1/2 lime 1 tablespoon whole white pepper
1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons ground peanuts corns
2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons sugar Combine salt and pepper, squeeze 1 cup (160 g) sliced onions
1/4 cup (60 ml) white vinegar 3 cloves garlic lime juice into the mixture and 1 medium carrot, chopped
1 medium red chili stir well. 1 stalk celery, chopped
Sprinkle carrot and radish with 1 stalk lemongrass Pinch of salt
salt, allow to stand for 10 min- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Pinch of pepper
utes. Press vegetables gently with
a dry towel to remove excess Combine all ingredients, except Sot Chua Ngot Combine the ingredients in a
moisture. Rinse and drain. In a oil, in a food processor. Blend Sweet and Sour Sauce large stock pot; bring to a boil.
mixing bowl, combine sugar and until finely chopped and well Simmer for 2 to 3 hours, until
vinegar with vegetables, then combined. Heat oil in pan, stir- 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped stock is reduced by half, strain
marinate for at least 2 hours fry all ingredients and simmer 1 tablespoon oil and set aside. Once cool, remove
before serving. Best when for 2 minutes. Cool before 2 tablespoons sliced shallots solid fat residue layer off the top.
served chilled. serving. 2 pickled shallots, sliced Note: Use cooked chicken for
1 small carrot, diced other recipes.
1 small green bell pepper
(capsicum), diced
Nuoc Mam Cham Sot Dau Phong 1 medium red chili, diced
Fish Sauce Dip Peanut Sauce 1 tablespoon sugar Nuoc Leo Bo
salt and pepper Beef Stock
1/4 cup (60 ml) water or fresh 1 clove garlic, finely sliced 1 teaspoon tomato sauce
coconut juice 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons vinegar 4 quarts (4 liters) water
1 teaspoon rice vinegar 4 oz (100 g) pork or chicken liver 1 tablespoon cornflour mixed 4 1 /2 Ib (2 kg) beef bones
1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon finely chopped red with 1 teaspoon water 2 tablespoons sliced ginger
1 red chili, seeded, finely chili 2 pieces star anise
chopped 1/2 cup (125 ml) yellow bean Saute garlic in oil until slightly Pinch of salt and pepper
2 cloves garlic, crushed sauce (see above) colored. Add sliced shallots,
1 tablespoon lime juice 1 stem lemongrass, finely pickled shallots, carrot, green Combine all ingredients, bring
2 tablespoons fish sauce chopped bell pepper, chili, sugar, and salt to a boil and simmer for 3 hours.
1/4 cup (60 ml) coconut milk and pepper to taste. Keep frying, Strain and set aside. Once cool,
Boil water or coconut juice 1 teaspoon sugar add tomato sauce and vinegar. remove solid fat residue off the top.
with vinegar and sugar; allow 1 teaspoon salt Bring combination to a boil, add
to cool. Combine chili, garlic, cornstarch mixture. Reduce heat, HELPFUL HINT
and lime juice, and add to the Saute garlic in oil until soft, add stir and simmer for 1 minute. Place stock in sealed conta iners
coconut mixture. Stir in the liver, chili, yellow bean sauce, and refrigerate or freeze if stori ng
fish sauce. lemongrass, half the coconut for a longer time. Refrigerated
Try adding shredded radish milk, sugar, salt, tamarind juice, Peanut Sauce (top) and fish sauce stock ast for a week.
and carrot pickles as a variation and peanuts. Bring to a boil. with garlic and chilies (bottom)
on nuoc mam cham. Remove from heat. Blend in
a food processor and add
remaining coconut milk.
Mam Nem
Fermented Anchovy Dip
Nuoc Mau
2 tablespoons fermented anchovy Caramel Syrup
sauce or paste
1/2 cup (125 ml) water I 1 cup (250 ml) water
2 teaspoons vinegar 1 cup (160 g) brown sugar
2 tablespoons crushed pineapple
1/4 stalk lemongrass, finely Bring water and sugar to a boil.
chopped Stir and reduce until dark brown
1 red chili, finely chopped in color. Remove from heat,
1 clove garlic, crushed add a few tablespoons of water
1 teaspoon sugar and stir. Pour into a heatproof
Pinch of pepper container. Cover with a lid.
Combine all the ingredients and
stir well. Season to taste with
pepper and sugar.

L
188 I APPENDIX I ______________________________________________________________________ __
MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSION TABLES



Measurements in this book are given in volume as far as possible. Teaspoon, tablespoon and cup measurements should be level, not heaped,
unless otherwise indicated. Australian readers please note that the standard Australian measuring spoon is larger than the UK or American
spoon by 5 mt, so use only 3/4 tablespoon when following the recipes.




LIQUID CONVERSIONS

Imperial Metric us cups

1/2 fl oz 15 ml 1 tablespoon
1 fl oz 30 ml l/S cup
2 fl oz 60 ml 1/4 cup
4 fl oz 125 ml 1/2 cup
5 fl OZ (1/4 pint) 150 ml 2/3 cup
6 f l oz 175 ml 3/4 cup
8 fl oz 250 ml 1 cup
12 fl oz 375 ml 11/2 cups
16 f l oz 500 ml 2 cups

Note:
1 UK pint = 20 f l oz
1 US pint = 16 f l oz




SOLID WEIGHT CONVERSIONS


Imperial Metric
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1/20Z 15 g
1 OZ 30g
11/2 OZ 50 g
2 oz 60 g
3 OZ 90 g
3 1 /20Z 100 g
4 OZ (1/4 Ib) 125 g
5 oz 150 g
6 oz 185 g
7 oz 200 g
8 OZ (1/2 Ib) 250 g
9 oz 280 g
100z 300 g
16 oz (1 Ib) 500 g (0.5 kg)
32 oz (2 Ib) 1 kg





OVEN TEMPERATURES

Heat Fahrenheit Centigrade/Celsius British Gas Mark

Very cool 225 110 114
Cool or slow 275-300 135-150 1-2
Moderate 350 175 4
Hot 425 220 7
Very hot 450 230 8

____________________________________________________________________________ ~I INDEXI 189


INDEX Spicy Beef Soup 113 Chicken Simmered In Tomatoes Pork Stew with Coconut
Spicy Beef Stew 185
142
Juice 184
Spicy Sparerib Soup 76 Chicken Stock, see Stocks Rice Balls in Coconut Milk 168
Stir-fried Rice with Kimchi and Ch icken Stuffed with R ice and Rice Patties with Sesame and
Almond Jelly 134
Beef 115 Ginseng 113 Coconut 143
Asam Laksa Penang 126
Chicken Tikka 59 Rich Coconut Beef 129
Assorted Sashimi 99
Beggar's Chicken 44 Chicken Vermicelli 141 Sesame-topped Semolina Cake
Aubergine, see Eggplant
Bak Kut Teh 124 Bengali Fish Curry 61 Chicken with Dried Chilies 45 with Coconut 29
Bird's-eye Chili Sambol 149 Chicken with Green Tomatoes 83 Spicy Chicken Soup with Coconut
Balinese Squid 82
Bitter Melon Salad 140 Chicken with Lime Leaf 132 Milk 161
Bamboo shoot Black Rice Pudding 85 Clear Chicken Soup with Vegetables in Coconut Milk 133
Bamboo Shoots with Boiled Dumplings in Hot Sauce 37 Shallots 77 Vegetables with Spicy Coconut 78
Mushrooms 42 Borneo Marinated Fish 130 Deep-fried Shandong Chicken 45
Clear Bamboo Shoot Soup 96 Braised Carp with Galangal Devil Chicken Curry 129 Cold Buckwheat Noodles with
Red Chicken Curry with Bamboo Sauce 183 Green Bean Salad with Assorted Toppings 97
Shoots 165 Braised Chicken Wings 105 Chicken 75 Cold Chengdu Noodles 39
Squid with Bamboo Shoots 44 Braised Mushrooms with Soy Green Chicken Curry 165 Cold Savory Custard 95
Sauce 180 Hanoi Chicken Soup 178 Com Hoang Bao 181
Banana - Braised Pumpkin with. Coconut Honey-roasted Chicken 184 Condiments, see Stocks, Sauces, &
Banana Cake 186
Milk 180 Mild Chicken Curry 58 Condiments
Bananas in Coconut Milk 168 Patty Shells with Minced Cooked Vegetables in Peanut
Deep-fried Bananas 168 Bread Chicken 158 Sauce 74
Fried Banana Cakes 85 Chapati 54
Red Chicken Curry with Bamboo
Plantain and Potato Balls 55 Naan 55 Crab
Shoots 165
Steamed Banana Cakes 84 Paratha 55 Casseroled Crabs with Glass
Saffron Ch icken 61
Puri 54 Noodles 167
Seafood, Chicken, Vegetable,
Barbecued Seasoned Beef 114 Chili Crab 131
and Noodle Hotpot 102
Battera Sushi 98 Brown Rice Cakes 142 Crab Curry, Burmese 28
Shredded Chicken with Chilies
Batter-coated Vegetables 54 Buckwheat Noodles with Crab Curry, Indian 60
and Lime 75
Bean and Lentil Stew 56 Tempura 96 Crab Curry, Sri Lankan 151
Spicy Chicken Soup with Coconut
Buginese Chicken 82 Crab and Vegetable Hotpot 113
Beancurd Milk 161
Bulgogi 114 Crab in Beer Broth 183
Beancurd with Spicy Sauce 112 Tandoori Chicken 58
Burmese Crab Curry 28 Crab with Tamarind Sauce 182
Fried Beancurd with Yogya Fried Chicken 83
Butter Shrimp 131 Deep-fried Stuffed Crab Shell 166
Lemongrass 185 Chili Grilled Eggplant with Crab 180
Miso-topped Beancurd 100 Cake Beef Soup with Chilies and Stuffed Crab 142
Pork-stuffed Steamed Banana Cake 186 Tamarind 76
Beancurd 36 Brown Rice Cakes 142
Bird's-eye Chili Sambol 149 Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup 63
Salmon Beancurd Balls 94 Cassava Patties with Coconut 143 Chicken with Dried Chilies 45 Creamy Shrimp Curry 60
Seafood in Beancurd Skin 36 Deep-fried Shrimp Cakes 163
Chili Crab 131 Crisp Peanut Wafers 73
Spicy Beancurd with Minced Fried Banana Cakes 85
Chili Garlic Sauce 47 Crispy Fried Mandarin Fish 43
Beef 40 Husband and Wife Cakes 186
Chili Ginger Sauce 135 Cuban-style Rice 140
Stuffed Vegetables and Rice Flour Cake with Palm
Chili Oil 47 Cucumber with Coconut Sauce 75
Beancurd 42 Sugar 84 Chili Peanuts with Anchovies 135
Rice Patties with Sesame and Curry
Beans, lentils, and pulses Chili Sauce 115
Coconut 143 Benga I i Fish Curry 61
Red Bean Soup 46 Fried Bird's-eye Chilies 87
Sesame-topped Semolina Cake Chicken Curry with Tomato 29
Red Bean Pancakes 46 Roasted Chili Paste 169
with Coconut 29 Crab Curry, Burmese 28
Bean and Lentil Stew 56 Shredded Chicken with Chilies
Steamed Banana Cakes 84 Crab Curry, Indian 60
Spiced Chickpeas 57 and Lime 75
Steamed Seafood Cakes 159 Crab Curry, Sri Lankan 151
Beef Wrapped Rice Cakes 186 Chutney Rice Noodles with Fish Curry
Barbecued Seasoned Beef 114 Green Mango Chutney 64 Sauce 161
Beef in Coconut Milk 80 Candied Apples 46 Mint and Coriander Chutney 64 Creamy Shrimp Curry 60
Beef Noodle Soup 178 Carrot and Radish Rolls 36 Tamarind and Ginger Chutney 64 Devil Chicken Curry 129
Beef Salad with Eggplant 163 Cassava Patties with Coconut 143 Tomato Chutney 64 Dry Beef Curry 165
Beef Satay 73 Casseroled Crabs with Glass Duck Curry 83
Beef Smore 150 Noodles 167 Claypot Rice 128 Goan Pork Curry 61
Beef Soup with Chilies and Catfish in Tamarind Sauce 28 Clear Bamboo Shoot Soup 95 Green Chicken Curry 165
Tamarind 76 Chapati 54 Clear Chicken Soup with Hot and Sour Fish Curry 130
Beef Stew with Tamarind 142 Char Siew 135 Shallots 77 Indian Mutton Curry 130
Beef Stock (Korean) 114 Charcoal-grilled Prawns with Sweet Clear Soup with Glass Noodles 160 Kerala Lamb Curry 60
Beef with Black Pepper 41 Sauce 167 Clear Tripe Soup 77 Mango Curry 149
Beef with Vegetables 104 Chawan-mushi 95 Mild Chicken Curry 58
Clear Tripe Soup 77 Cheese Coconut Mussaman Beef Curry 164
Dry Beef Curry 165 Bananas in Coconut Milk 168 Pork and Mango Curry 28
Skewered Homemade Cheese 57
Dry Spiced Beef 80 Beef in Coconut Milk 80 Pork Curry 151
Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup 63
Grilled Beef in Wild Betel Braised Pumpkin with Coconut Prawns in Tomato Curry 28
Chenna/Paneer 64
Leaves 185 Milk 180 Red Chicken Curry with Bamboo
Homemade Cream Cheese 64
Grilled Beef Ribs 114 Cassava Patties with Coconut 143 Shoots 165
Grilled Beef Roll 176 Coconut Milk Gravy 148 Red Pork Curry 164
Cherry Blossom Dumplings 106
Japanese One-Pot 104 Coconut Noodles 27 Roast Duck Curry 165
Marinated Sliced Beef 36 Chicken Coconut Pancake 85 Roasted Curry Powder 148
Mussaman Beef Curry 164 Beggar's Chicken 44 Coconut Sambol 148 Salted Fish and Pineapple
Pot Rice with Fried Beef and Braised Chicken Wings 105 Cucumber with Coconut Sauce 75 Curry 132
Vegetables 114 Buginese Chicken 82 Fern Tips in Coconut Milk 79 Spicy Lamb Curry 151
Rich Coconut Beef 129 Chicken and Pork Adobo 142 Fresh Coconut Noodles 141
Seared Beef 95 Chicken Curry with Tomato 29 Mixed Spice Coconut Slices 151 Curry Puffs 122
Sirloin Steak Teriyaki 105 Chicken Fried in Pandan Leaves 158 Noodles in Spicy Coconut Daikon
Sour Hot Oxtail Stew 129 Chicken Loaf 95 Milk 126 Carrot and Radish Pickles 187
Spicy Beancurd with Minced Chicken Rice 128 Padang-style Eggs in Coconut Carrot and Radish Rolls 36
Beef 40 Chicken Rice Soup with Ginger 141 Milk 78
Daikon Salad 26

190 I INDEX L I ______________________________________________________________________ __



Dashi Sauce 161 Husband and Wife Cakes 186 Minced Duck Satay 73
Basic Dashi Stock (Katsuo River Fish with Chili Sauce 166 Ice cream Minced Eel with Sesame Seed Rice
Dashi) 107 River Fish with Dill and Crackers 183
Green Tea Ice Cream 106
Stock for Cold Soba Noodles Tomato 184 Minced Pork Balls on a Skewer 177
Indian Ice Cream 63
(Soba Dashi #2) 107 Salmon Beancurd Balls 94 Mint and Coriander Chutney 64
Stock for Hot Soba Noodles Salted Fish and Pineapple Miso Soup with Mushrooms 96
Imperial Rice 181
(Soba Dashi #1) 107 Curry 132 Miso-topped Beancurd 100
Tempura Dipping Sauce (Tempura Seared Bonito with Tangy Indian Fried Noodles 127 Mixed Ice 84
Indian Ice Cream 63
Dashi) 107 Dressing 100 Mixed Rolled Sushi 99
Indian Mee Goreng 127
Seer Fish Lemon Stew 150 Mixed Spice Coconut Slices 151
Indian Mutton Curry 130
Deep-fried Bananas 168 Simmered River Fish 81 Mixed Vegetable Pickle 65
Deep-fried Bread 54 Sour Claypot Fish 150 Indian Mutton Soup 127 Mixed Vegetable Soup 161
Jaffna Seafood Soup 149
Deep-fried Shandong Chicken 45 Spicy Fried Sardines 81 Mohinga 27
Japanese One-Pot 104
Deep-fried Shrimp Cakes 163 Tea-smoked Seabass 132 Mongolian Lamb Hotpot 41
Deep-fried Shrimp with Tempura Whitebait in Soup 96 Jellied Plums 106 Mussaman Beef Curry 164
Kale with Crispy Pork 164
Almonds 102 Teochew Steamed Fish 130
Deep-fried Stuffed Crab Shell 166 Teochew Steamed Pomfret 42 Kerala Lamb Curry 60 Mushrooms
Bamboo Shoots with
Deep-fried Whitebait 103 Tuna Sambal 72 Kimchi
Desserts, see Sweets Tuna, Seaweed, and Kimchi Stew 113 Mushrooms 42
Devil Chicken Curry 129 Cucumber 103 Stir-fried Rice with Kimchi and Braised Mushrooms with Soy
Dips, see Stocks, Sauces, & Sauce 180
Beef 115
Condiments Flaky Fried Bread 55 Whole Cabbage Kimchi 112 Miso Soup with Mushrooms 96
Dry Beef Curry 165 Flat Fish with Salt 103 Shrimp-stuffed Mushrooms 94
Dry Spiced Beef 80 Fragrant Eggplant with Pork 40 Laksa
Fresh Coconut Noodles 141 Noodles in Spicy Coconut Milk Mutton, see Lamb
Duck Naan 55
Fried Banana Cakes 85 (Laksa Lemak) 126
Banana Blossom Salad with Duck Sour Penang Noodle Soup (Asam Nonya Pancake 134
Fried Beancurd with
and Ginger 179 Lemongrass 185 Laksa Penang) 126
Duck Curry 83 Noodles
Fried Clams in Roasted Chili Beef Noodle Soup 178
Duck Giblets 37 Lamb
Paste 167
Duck in Fragrant Soy Sauce 128 Indian Mutton Curry 130 Buckwheat Noodles with
Fried Fish Cakes 27 Tempura 96
Minced Duck Satay 73 Indian Mutton Soup 127
Fried Grouper with Ginger
Roast Duck Curry 165 Kerala Lamb Curry 60 Casseroled Crabs with Glass
Sauce 183 Noodles 167
Mongolian Lamb Hot Pot 41
Fried Milk Balls in Syrup 63 Chicken Vermicelli 141
Dumplings with Minced Pork and Fried Mixed Vegetables 163 Spicy Lamb Curry 151
Shrimp 159 Spicy Meatballs 59 Clear Soup with Glass
Fried Noodles Xiamen Style 39 Noodles 160
Eggplant Fried Squid with Garlic and Black Lemon Mango Pickle 65 Coconut Noodles 27
Beef Salad with Eggplant 163 Pepper 166 Lemon Rice 56 Cold Buckwheat Noodles with
Eggplant Pickle 149 Frogs' Legs with Chili and Basil 166 Lephet 26 Assorted Toppings 97
Fragrant Eggplant with Pork 40 Ginseng Lily Bulb Dumplings 106 Cold Chengdu Noodles 39
Grilled Eggplant Salad 26 Lobster in Yellow Sauce 81 Fish with Noodles 97
Chicken Stuffed with Rice and
Grilled Eggplant with Crab 180 Fresh Coconut Noodles 141
Ginseng 113
Lotus Root, Pork, and Eggplant Lotus root, stem Fried Noodles Xiamen Style 39
Ginseng Tea 115
Slices 105 Lotus Root, Pork, and Eggplant Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles 185
Tempered Eggplant 149 Slices 105 Hot and Spicy Hawker Noodles 38
Goan Pork Curry 61 Lotus Root Salad 36
Eggs (see Omelet): Green Bean Salad with Chicken 75 Lotus Stem Salad with Indian Fried Noodles 127
Noodle Soup with Vegetable 114
Cold Savory Custard (Tamago Green Beans with Sesame 100 Shrimps 179 Noodles in Spicy Coconut Milk
Dofu) 95 Green Chicken Curry 165 (Laksa Lemak) 126
Padang-style Eggs in Coconut Green Mango Chutney 64 Mango Rice Noodles in Fish Soup 27
Milk 78 Green Mango Salad 140 Green Mango Chutney 64 Rice Noodles with Fish Curry
Savory Custard (Chawan Green Papaya Salad 162 Green Mango Salad 140 Sauce 161
Mushi) 95 Green Papaya Soup 76 Lemon Mango Pickle 65
Green Tea Ice Cream 106 Mango Curry 149 Seafood, Chicken, Vegetable,
and Noodle Hotpot 102
Exotic Fruit Mix 143 Grilled Beef in Wild Betel Mango Jellies 134 Shrimp Noodle Soup 125
Fermented Tea Leaf Salad 26 Leaves 185 Pork and Mango Curry 28 Sour Penang Noodle Soup
Fern Tips in Coconut Milk 79 Grilled Beef Ribs 114 Shrimp and Green Mango (Asam Laksa Penang) 126
Grilled Beef Roll 176 Salad 179
Fish Grilled Eggplant Salad 26 Yen's Brown Noodles 125
Assorted Sashimi 99 Grilled Eggplant with Crab 180 Marinated Sliced Beef 36 Omelet
Bengali Fish Curry 61 Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf 72 Marinated Sour Shrimp 72 Oyster Omelet 123
Borneo Marinated Fish 130 Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf 82 Savory Stuffed Omelets 163
Braised Carp with Galangal Sauce Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles 185 Masala
183 Grilled Squid 182 Chaat Masala 64 Onion Mustard Pickle 65
Catfish in Tamarind Sauce 28 Halo Halo Supreme 143 Garam Masala 64 Otak-otak 72
Crispy Fried Mandarin Fish 43 Hand-tossed Salad 26 Kadai Masala 64 Oyster Omelet 123
Deep-fried Whitebait 103 Hanoi Chicken Soup 178 Rasam Masala 64 Padang-style Eggs in Coconut Milk
Fish with Noodles 97 Honey-roasted Chicken 184 Melon 78
Fish-head Soup 76 Hoppers (see also String Bitter Melon Salad 140
Flat Fish with Salt 103 Hoppers) 148 Sago with Honeydew 134
Fried Fish Cakes 27 Hot and Sour Fish Curry 130 White Fungus with Melon Balls 46 Pancakes
Fried Grouper with Ginger Hot and Spicy Hawker Noodles 38 Winter Melon Soup 38 Coconut Pancake 85
Sauce 183 Hoppers 148
Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf 82 Hotpot Mild Chicken Curry 58 Nonya Pancake 134
Hot and Sour Fish Curry 130 Crab and Vegetable Hotpot 113 Red Bean Pancakes 46
Minced Eel with Sesame Seed Rice Mongolian Lamb Hotpot 41 Miso Scallion, Shellfish, and Egg
Crackers 183 Seafood, Chicken, Vegetable, and Dengaku Miso 107 Pancake 112
Ota k -ota k 72 Noodle Hotpot 102 Hoba Miso 107 Southern Indian Rice-flour
Preserved Salted Fish Stew 181 Miso Soup with Mushrooms 96 Pancakes 55
Rice Noodles in Fish Soup 27 Hot Spicy Fried Tempeh 79 Miso-topped Beancurd 100 Transparent Savory Rice
Rice Nood les with Fish Curry Hue Spring Roll 177 Pancakes 29

________________________________________________________________ ~I INDEX I 191



Paneer, see Cheese Red Roasted Pork 135 Lotus Stem Salad with Shrimp (see also Prawns)
Pan-fried Water Convolvulus with Red Rubies 168 Shrimps 179 Butter Shrimp 131
Yellow Bean Sauce 181 Rendang 80, 129 Raw Vegetables (Karedok) 74 Creamy Shrimp Curry 60
Papaya Rice Shrimp and Green Mango Deep-fried Shrimp Cakes 163
Salad 179 Deep-fried Shrimp with
Green Papaya Salad 162 Black Rice Pudding 85
Southern-style Rice Salad 162 Almonds 102
Green Papaya Soup 76 Brown Rice Cakes 142
Spicy Pomelo Salad 162 Dumplings with Minced Pork
Chicken Rice 128
Squid Salad 179 and Shrimp 159
Patty Shells with Minced Chicken Rice Soup with
Vegetable and Fru it Salad with Lotus Stem Salad with
Chicken 158 Ginger 141
Palm Sugar Sauce (Rujak) 75 Shrimps 179
Persimmon Tea 115 Ch icken Stuffed with Rice
Vegetable Salad with Peanut Sauce Marinated Sour Shrimp 72
Philippine Fried Egg Rolls 140 and Ginseng 113
(Gado Gado) 74 Pi Pa Shrimp 45
Pi Pa Shrimp 45 Claypot Rice 128
Pork and Shrimp Rolls 158
Cuban-style Rice 140
Pickle Salmon Beancurd Balls 94 Shrimp and Green Mango
Imperial Rice 181
Lemon Mango Pickle 65 Lemon Rice 56 Salted Fish and Pineapple Salad 179
Mixed Vegetable Pickle 65 Curry 132 Shrimp in Hot Sauce 80
Pork Cutlets on Rice 101
Onion Mustard Pickle 65 Shrimp Mousse on Sugar
Pot Rice with Fried Beef and Samba I
Cane 177
Vegetables 114 Bird's-eye Chili Sambol 149
Pineapple Tartlets 186 Rice Balls 99 Coconut Sambol 148 Shrimp Noodle Soup 125
Pisang Goreng 85 Rice Balls in Coconut Milk 168 Sambal Udang 80 Shrimp Paste Sambal (Sambal
Plantain and Potato Balls 55 Belacan) 135
Rice Patties with Sesame and Shallot & Lemongrass Sambal 87
Plantains, see Bananas Coconut 143 Shrimp Paste Sambal (Sambal Shrimp Rolls 176
Popiah 122 Shrimp Sambal 131
Rich Rice Pudding 62 Belacan) 135
Shrimp with Sake 102
Pork Southern-style Rice Salad 162 Shrimp Sambal 131 Shrimps with Sweet and
Chicken and Pork Adobo 142 Stir-fried Rice with Kimchi and Tomato Sambal 86 Sour Sauce 159
Dumplings with Minced Pork and Beef 115 Tuna Sambal 72 Shrimp-stuffed Lychees 43
Shrimp 159 Sushi Rice with Topping 98 Shrimp-stuffed Mushrooms 94
Fragrant Eggplant with Pork 40 Vinegared Rice (Sushi-Meshil 107 Sambol , see Sambal Sour Shrimp Stew 141
Goan Pork Curry 61 Vinegared Rice with Kelp 98 Samosa 54 Sour Soup with Vegetables and
Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles 185 Wrapped Rice Cakes 186 Sashimi, assorted 99 Shrimps 160
Kale with Crispy Pork 164 Yellow Rice 78 Satay Spicy River Shrimp 182
Lotus Root, Pork, and Eggplant Beef Satay 73 Spicy Shrimp Soup with
Slices 105 Rice Flour Cake with Palm Sugar 84 Minced Duck Satay 73 Lemongrass 160
Minced Pork Balls on a Rice Noodles in Fish Soup 27
Skewer 177 Rice Nood les with Fish Curry Sauces, see Stocks, Sauces, & Simmered River Fish 81
Pork and Mango Curry 28 Sauce 161 Condiments Simmered Winter Squash 101
Pork and Shrimp Rolls 158 Rich Coconut Beef 129 Savory Custard 95 Sirloin Steak Teriyaki 105
Pork Cooked with Tomatoes 79 Rich Rice Pudding 62 Savory Stuffed Omelets 163 Skewered Homemade Cheese 57
Pork Crackling 140 River Fish with Chili Sauce 166 Scallion, Shellfish, and Egg Snake Gourd 133
Pork Curry 151 River Fish with Dill and Tomato 184 Pancake 112
Pork Cutlets on Rice 101 Roast Duck Curry 165 Scallops in Yuzu 103 Soup
Pork in Sweet Soy Sauce 79 Rolled Sushi 98 Beef Noodle Soup 178
Pork Ribs Fried in Pandan Rolls (and Wraps) Seafood (see also Crab, Fish, Beef Soup with Chilies and
Leaves 123 Shrimp, and Squid): Tamarind 76
Carrot and Radish Rolls 36
Pork Sausage 184 Assorted Sashimi 99 Chicken Rice Soup with
Grilled Beef Roll 176
Pork Stew with Coconut Juice 184 Balinese Squid 82 Ginger 141
Hue Spring Roll 177
Pork with Ginger 100 Fried Clams in Roasted Chili Clear Bamboo Shoot Soup 96
Philippine Fried Egg Rolls 140
Pork-stuffed Steamed Paste 167 Clear Chicken Soup with
Popiah 122
Beancurd 36 Jaffna Seafood Soup 149 Shallots 77
Pork and Shrimp Rolls 158
Red Pork Curry 164 Lobster in Yellow Sauce 81 Clear Soup (Suiji) 107
Shrimp Rolls 176
Red Roasted Pork 135 Oyster Omelet 123 Clear Soup with Glass
Stuffed Steamed Rice Wrapper
Spiced Pork Bone Soup 124 Rolls 176 Seafood in Beancurd Skin 36 Noodles 160
Stir-fried Pork Liver 40 Seafood, Chicken, Vegetable, and Clear Tripe Soup 77
Vietnamese Spring Rolls 177
Noodle Hotpot 102 Fish-head Soup 76
Pot Rice with Fried Beef and Sesame Squid 37 Green Papaya Soup 76
Rujak 75
Vegetables 114 Squid with Bamboo Shoots 44 Hanoi Chicken Soup 178
Saffron Steamed Mussels with Minced Indian Mutton Soup 127
Prawns (see also Shrimp):
Saffron Ch icken 61 Garlic 43 Jaffna Seafood Soup 149
Charcoal-grilled Prawns with Sweet Miso Soup with Mushrooms 96
Sweet Yogurt with Saffron 62 Steamed Mussels, Thai-style 167
Sauce 167
Steamed Seafood Cakes 159 Mixed Vegetable Soup 161
Prawns in Tomato Curry 28 Noodle Soup with Vegetable 114
Sago Flour Roll 84 Seared Beef 95
Sago with Honeydew 134 Seared Bonito with Tangy Pumpkin Soup with Basil 26
Preserved Salted Fish Stew 181 Red Bean Soup 46
Sake, with Shrimp 102 Dressing 100
Pumpkin Salad Seer Fish Lemon Stew 150 Rice Noodles in Fish Soup 27
Braised Pumpkin with Coconut Banana Blossom Salad with Duck Sesame Shark's Fi n Sou p 38
Milk 180 Shrimp Noodle Soup 125
and Ginger 179 Green Beans with Sesame 100 Sour Penang Noodle Soup (Asam
Pumpkin Custard 168
Beef Salad with Eggplant 163 Rice Patties with Sesame and Laksa Penang) 126
Pumpkin Soup with Basil 26
Bitter Melon Salad 140 Coconut 143 Sour Soup with Vegetables and
Simmered Winter Squash 101
Cooked Vegetables in Peanut Sesame Sauce 47 Shrimps 160
Spicy Pumpkin 133
Sauce (Lotek) 74 Sesame Squid 37 Spiced Pork Bone Soup 124
Daikon Salad 26 Sesame-topped Semolina Cake Spicy Beef Soup 113
Radish, see Daikon
Fermented Tea Leaf Salad 26 with Coconut 29 Spicy Chicken Soup with Coconut
Raw Vegetables 74
Green Bean Salad with Spinach with Sesame Milk 161
Red Bean Pancakes 46
Chicken 75 Dressing 94 Spicy Shrimp Soup with
Red Bean Soup 46
Green Mango Salad 140 Lemongrass 160
Red Chicken Curry with Bamboo
Green Papaya Salad 162 Shabu-shabu 104 Spicy Sparerib Soup 76
Shoots 165 Grilled Eggplant Salad 26 Shark's Fin Soup 38
Red Pork Curry 164 Hand-tossed Salad 26 Shredded Chicken with Chilies and Superior Wonton Soup 124
Red Pork Curry 164 Tempura Whitebait in Soup 96
Lotus Root Salad 36 Lime 75 Winter Melon Soup 38

192 I INDEX LI __________________________________________________________________ ___



Sour Claypot Fish 150 Beef Stock (Korean) 114, Stuffed Vegetables and Tempura Dipping Sauce (Tempura
Sour Hot Oxtail Stew 129 (Vietnamese) 187 Beancurd 42 Dashi) 107
Sour Penang Noodle Soup 126 Bird's-eye Chili Sambol 149 Sukiyaki 104 Tempura Soba 96
Sour Shrimp Stew 141 Caramel Syrup 187 Superior Wonton Soup 124 Tempura Whitebait in Soup 96
Sour Soup with Vegetables and Carrot and Radish Pickles 187
Shrimps 160 Chaat Masala 64 Sushi Teochew Steamed Fish 42 , 130
Southern I ndian Dessert 62 Chicken Stock (Chinese) 47 , Mixed Rolled Sushi 99 Teriyaki, Sirloin Steak 105
Rolled Sushi 98
Southern Indian Rice-flour (Indonesian) 87, (Malaysian) Transparent Savory Rice
Pancakes 55 115, (Thai) 169, Sushi Rice with Topping 98 Pancakes 29
Vinegared Rice with Kelp 98
Southern-style Rice Salad 162 (Vietnamese) 187 Tuna Sambal 72
Chili Garlic Sauce 47 Sweet Yogurt with Saffron 62 Tuna, Seaweed, and Cucumber 103
Soy
Chili Ginger Sauce 135 Sweets
Braised Mushrooms with Soy Vegetables
Chili Oil 47 Almond Jelly 134
Sauce 180 Batter-coated Vegetables 54
Chili Peanuts with Anchovies 135 Banana Cake 186
Pork in Sweet Soy Sauce 79 Cooked Vegetables in Peanut
Chili Sauce 135 Bananas in Coconut Milk 168
Soy and Ginger Dip 47 Citrus Sauce (Ponzu Sauce) 107 Sauce (Lotek) 74
Soy and Vinegar Dip 112 Black Rice Pudding 85 Fern Tips in Coconut Milk 79
Coconut Milk Gravy 148 Brown Rice Cakes 142
Tosa Soy Sauce (Tosa Shoyu) 107 Fried Mixed Vegetables 163
Coconut Sambol 148 Candied Apples 46
Vegetables Simmered in Soy Green Beans with Sesame 100
Dahi 64 Cassava Patties with
Sauce 101 Mixed Vegetable Pickle 65
Dengaku M iso 107 Coconut 143
Dip with Grilled Fish 169 Channa Dal Payasam 62 Mixed Vegetable Soup 161
Spiced Chickpeas 57 Dried Cucumber Acar 135 Pan-fried Water Convolvulus with
Spiced Mixed Vegetables 56 Cherry Blossom Dumplings 106 Yellow Bean Sauce 181
Fermented Anchovy Dip 187 Coconut Pancake 85
Spiced Pork Bone Soup 124 Fish Sauce Dip 187 Raw Vegetables (Karedok) 74
Spiced Potatoes in Yogurt 57 Fried Bird's-eye Chilies 87 Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup 63 Simmered Winter Squash 101
Spicy Beancurd with Minced Deep-fried Bananas 168 Snake Gourd 133
Fried Shallots 87 Exotic Fruit Mix 143
Beef 40 Spiced Mixed Vegetables 56
Fried Shallots and Garlic Oil 135 Fried Banana Cakes 85
Spicy Beef Soup 113 Spicy Kangkung 132
Garam Masala 64 Fried Milk Balls in Syrup 63
Spicy Beef Stew 185 Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables 40
Ginger and Black Vinegar Dip 47 Green Tea Ice Cream 106
Spicy Chicken Soup with Coconut Stir-fried Vegetables with Fish
Ginger Garlic Sauce 47 Husband and Wife Cakes 186
Milk 161 Ginger Juice 135 Sauce 180
Spicy Fried Sardines 81 Indian Ice Cream 63 Stuffed Vegetables and
Gourmet Stock 47 Jellied Plums 106
Spicy Kangkung 132 Green Curry Paste 169 Beancurd 42
Spicy Lamb Curry 151 Lily Bulb Dumplings 106 Vegetable and Fruit Salad with
Green Peppercorn Dip 169 Mango Jellies 134
Spicy Meatballs 59 Hoba M iso 107 Palm Sugar Sauce (Rujak) 75
Spicy Pomelo Salad 162 Mixed Ice (Es Campur) 84 Vegetable Salad with Peanut
Kadai Masala 64 Mixed Spice Coconut
Spicy Pumpkin 133 Mussaman Curry Paste 169 Sauce 74
Spicy River Shrimp 182 Slices 151 Vegetables in Coconut Milk 133
Palm Sugar Syrup 87 Nonya Pancake 134
Spicy Shrimp Soup with Peanut Sauce 87, 187 Vegetables Simmered in Soy
Lemongrass 160 Pineapple Tartlets 186 Sauce 101
Pickled Garlic 47 Pumpkin Custard 168
Spicy Sparerib Soup 76 Pickled Ginger 107 Vegetables with Spicy
Spinach with Sesame Dressing 94 Red Bean Pancakes 46 Coconut 78
Plain Yogurt 64 Red Bean Soup 46
Split-pea Crackers 27 Vegetable-stuffed Pastries 54
Popiah Wrappers 135 Red Rubies 168
Squash, see Pumpkin
Rasam Masala 64 Rice Balls in Coconut Milk 168
Squid Red Curry Paste 169 Rice Flour Cake with Palm Vietnamese Spring Rolls 177
Vindaloo 61
Balinese Squid 82 Roasted Chili Paste 169 Sugar 84 Vinegared Rice with Kelp 98
Fried Squid with Garlic and Black Roasted Curry Powder 148 Rice Patties with Sesame and White Fungus with Melon
Pepper 166 Salt, Pepper, and Lime Mix 187 Coconut 143 Balls 46
Grilled Squid 182 Sesame Sauce 47 Rich Rice Pudding 62 Whole Cabbage Kimchi 112
Sesame Squid 37 Shallot & Lemongrass Sambal 87 Sago Flour Roll 84 Winter Melon Soup 38
Squid Salad 179 Shrimp Paste and Coconut Milk Sago with Honeydew 134 Wrapped Rice Cakes 186
Squid with Bamboo Shoots 44 Dip 169 Sesame-topped Semolina Cake Wraps, see Rolls
Stuffed Squid 182 Shrimp Paste Samba I (Sambal with Coconut 29 Yellow Rice 78
Belacan) 135 Steamed Banana Cakes 84
Steamed Banana Cakes 84 Sichuan Pepper Oil 47 Sweet Yogurt with Saffron 62 Yen's Brown Noodles 125
Steamed Mussels 167 Soy and Ginger Dip 47 Transparent Savory Rice Yogurt
Steamed Mussels with Minced Soy and Vinegar Dip 112 Pancakes 29 Plain Yogurt (Dahi) 64
Garlic 43 Spice Paste for Beef 86 White Fungus with Melon Spiced Potatoes in Yogurt 57
Steamed Seafood Cakes 159 Spice Paste for Ch icken 86 Balls 46 Sweet Yogurt with Saffron 62
Spice Paste for Seafood 86 Wrapped Rice Cakes 186
Stew Spice Paste for Vegetables 86 Yogya Fried Chicken 83
Beef Stew with Tamarind 142 Stock for Cold Soba Noodles Tamarind
Kimchi Stew 113 (Soba Dashi #2) 107 Beef Soup with Chilies and
Pork Stew with Coconut Juice 184 Stock for Hot Soba Noodles Tamarind 76
Preserved Salted Fish Stew 181 (Soba Dashi #1) 107 Beef Stew with Tamarind 142
Seer Fish Lemon Stew 150 Sweet and Sour Sauce 140, 187 Catfish in Tamarind Sauce 28
Sour Hot Oxtail Stew 129 Tempura Batter (Tempura Ko) 107 Crab with Tamarind Sauce 182
Sour Shrimp Stew 141 Tempura Dipping Sauce 107 Tamarind and Ginger Chutney 64
Spicy Beef Stew 185 Tosa Soy Sauce (Tosa Shoyu) 107
Tempeh Stew 77 Vinegar Dipping Sauce 140 Tandoor-baked Bread 55
Yellow Bean Sauce 187 Tandoori Chicken 58
Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables 40 Tea leaves, fermented 26
Stir-fried Pork Liver 40 String Hoppers 148 Tea-smoked Sea bass 132
Stir-fried Rice with Kimchi and Stuffed Crab 142 Tempura
Beef 115 Stuffed Deep-fried Yam
Stir-fried Vegetables with Fish Dumplings 123 Batter-coated Vegetables 54
Sauce 180 Stuffed Okra 58 Buckwheat Noodles with
Tempura 96
Stocks, sauces, and condiments: Stuffed Squid 182 Lotus Root, Pork, and Eggplant
Basic Dashi Stock (Katsuo Stuffed Steamed Rice Wrapper Slices 105
Rolls 176
Dashi) 107 Tempura Batter (Tempura Ko) 107