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Mercedes-Benz Malaysia Sdn Bhd (Reg.no. 200201028433 (596096-H)) Customer Care Center: 1-800-88-1133 [email protected] www.mercedes-benz.com.my Mercedes-Benz Services Malaysia Sdn Bhd (Reg.no. 201201027083 (1011573-P)) [email protected] www.mercedes-benz.com.my/financial KUALA LUMPUR • Cycle & Carriage Bintang Berhad (7378-D) (Cheras) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Jalan Sultan Ismail) Tel: 03-2116 9228 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Jalan Ipoh) Tel: 03-6250 1388 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Kinrara) Tel: 03-8073 3891 • NZ Wheels Sdn Bhd (329033-V) (Bangsar) Tel: 03-2287 3999 • SELANGOR • Cycle & Carriage Bintang Berhad (7378-D) (Petaling Jaya) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • Cycle & Carriage Bintang Berhad (7378-D) (Mutiara Damansara) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • Cycle & Carriage Bintang Berhad (7378-D) (Glenmarie) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • NZ Wheels Sdn Bhd (329033-V) (Klang) Tel: 03-3341 3333 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Balakong) Tel: 03–8947 9688 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Bukit Tinggi) Tel: 03-3318 0308 • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Setia Alam) Tel: 03-3362 1068 • KEDAH & PERLIS • Asbenz Motors Sdn Bhd (639691-H) (Sungai Petani) Tel: 04-431 7000 • Asbenz Stern Sdn Bhd (1267419-A) (Langkawi) Tel: 04-961 0988 • Cycle & Carriage Bintang (Northern) Sdn Bhd (114255-P) (Alor Setar) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • P.PINANG • Cycle & Carriage Bintang (Northern) Sdn Bhd (114255-P) (Georgetown) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • Cycle & Carriage Bintang (Northern) Sdn Bhd (114255-P) (Juru) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • PERAK • Cycle & Carriage Bintang (Perak) Sdn Bhd (1554-H) (Ipoh) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • N.SEMBILAN • Minsoon Star Sdn Bhd (21760-X) Tel: 06-851 2882 • TERENGGANU • Asbenz Stern Sdn Bhd (1267419-A) Tel: 09-626 1200 • MELAKA • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) Tel: 06-281 3638 • JOHOR • Cycle & Carriage Bintang Berhad (7378-D) Tel: 1800-22-8000 • NZ Wheels Sdn Bhd (329033-V) Tel: 07-355 7218 • BR Jaya Sdn Bhd (357552-H) (Batu Pahat) Tel: 07-434 1199 • PAHANG • Asbenz Stern Sdn Bhd (1267419-A) Tel: 09-516 3355 • KELANTAN • Mofaz Exotic Car Sdn Bhd (182538-P) Tel: 09-747 4100 • SABAH • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) Tel: 088-275 766 • SARAWAK • Hap Seng Star Sdn Bhd (659844-H) (Kuching) Tel: 082-356 611
82 NewandNoteworthy HighlightsfromWatches andWonders 2023 58 70 16 Editor’s Note 18 Contributors 144 One MoreTime TIME CHECK 20Editor’sPicks The bestwatchesso farthis year 30Trends Small case sizes are back in voguewhile cartoon characters are invading luxurywatches 36 Focus Celebrating 70 years of BlancpainFiftyFathoms 40 Focus WhyRolex isthe gold standard forluxury wristwatches and horological excellence 42 Icon The truth aboutAudemars PiguetRoyalOakOffshore 48 Icon HowTagHeuerCarrera came to be known asthe ultimate racingwatch 54Who to Know The independent brands thatwill be calling Sincere HauteHorlogerie home in KualaLumpur 58 Focus Ten one-of-a-kind timepiecesto be auctioned off atOnlyWatch 2023 DIAL UP 66Cover Story Longinesrevivesthe flyback chronograph after more than 50 years 70Conversation CEOMatthiasBreschanhas a lofty vision forLongines, and he knows howto get there 72Atelier InsideCartierMaison des Métiers d’Artwhere artistic time-honoured techniques thrive 78Atelier Thewatchmaking prowess ofRichardMille 82Portfolio We revisitsome ofthe most amazing timepieces revealed atWatches and Wonders 2023 90Portfolio The rise ofAsian watchmakers On the Cover Photography Xerxes Lee Tatler GMT Contents 10 August
DIAL UP 96Portfolio Howthe chronograph has evolved froma sportspecific instrumentto chic everydaywear 98Portfolio Whywatchmakers are choosing to make chronographs inconspicuous 108 Spotlight Acloserlook atBreguet TypeXXandType 20 110Portfolio History ofthe retrograde display atVacheron Constantin 116The Green Dossier Whatthewatchmaking industry is doing for the betterment ofthe environment INSIDE ACCESS 124Collector’sCorner MarcNaidu issomething of an apostle ofGirardPerregauxLaureato 126Collector’sCorner TayLiamWee ofWatchBox talks about bringing the bestindependent Swiss watchmakerstoAsia 128Collector’sCorner Watch enthusiastV.Ganesh on slowly building his eclectic collection 130Collector’sCorner Four chefsrevealwhy their timepieces of choice can take the heatin the kitchen 136 24HoursWith… RahulMayer,Malaysian race car driverforHi-Rev DreamChaser 138 StyleExplainer Wear yourwatch in unique and unexpectedways 140VIP GeneralmanagerAndré Cheminade takes usinside Hôtel desHorlogers, built and owned byAudemars Piguet 98 140 Do Not Disturb Atour oftheAudemars Piguet hotel 138 136 Tatler GMT Contents 12 August
DIVER[SKELETON AZURE]
Managing Director GERALDINE BEH EDITORIAL [email protected] Regional Managing Editor, Tatler GMT BRIAN CHEONG Editor, Tatler GMT, Hong Kong AMRITA KATARA Editor, Tatler GMT, Singapore ANNABEL TAN Editor, Tatler GMT, Philippines MARITESS GARCIA REYES Editor, Tatler GMT, Taiwan ERICA YU GMT Founder and Chief Editor, GMT BRICE LECHEVALIER Deputy Chief Editor, GMT MARIE DE PIMODAN Commercial Director and Community Manager, GMT CAMILLE GUILLE Editor, GMT ALLISSA PATAKI ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY [email protected] Art Director LIEW CHIAW CHING Designer SY HOO Photographer DANIEL ADAMS PRODUCTION [email protected] Production Manager SHAHRUL HILAL EDIPRESSE GROUP Chairman PIERRE LAMUNIÈRE CFO & COO MICHEL PREISWERK Vice President SEBASTIEN LAMUNIÈRE ADVERTISING [email protected] Head of Commercial SURAYA RAHMAT Account Director NICOLE ANDRES ABDULLAH Account Director, Homes MAWAR PROEHOEMAN Account Manager CHERYLL LIM Account Manager NIGEL SEBASTIAN Senior Account Executive YAP HUAY SHAN FINANCE [email protected] Finance Director SURIA PERABA Accounting Manager FELICIA LEONG Accounts Executive JAYABARATHI RAMACHANDRAN EVENTS AND CIRCULATION [email protected] Head of Events SHIDA MAHADI Events Manager LIYANA ALMAHDALY Events Executive YAOSHAN CHUNG Assistant Circulation Manager PUNITHA NALARAJAH TATLER ASIA [email protected] Chairman and CEO MICHEL LAMUNIÈRE Chief Experience Officer SEAN FITZPATRICK Chief Technology Officer JET CHOY Chief of Staff and Group Controller MANDY LAU Chief People Officer MAGGIE SHEN Regional Head of Content JACQUELINE TSANG Regional Creative Director MIGUEL MARI Regional Managing Editor, Digital JOANNA GOH Tatler GMT is published by Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd Registration No: 199101019770 (230081-U) Lot 1-01, Level 1, Block B, Plaza Zurich, No. 12 Jalan Gelenggang, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur Tel +603 2780 8833 Email [email protected] Printed by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd (194695-W), Bangunan Times Publishing Group, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor. Tel +603-5628 6888. Tatler Malaysia is a registered trademark of Tatler Asia Limited and is used by Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd under licence from the trademark owner. Copyright 2023 by Tatler Asia Limited. All materials published remain the property of Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd. Materials submitted for publication are sent at the owner’s own risk and while every care is taken, neither Tatler Malaysia nor its agents accepts any liability for loss or damage.
—Brian Cheong Hunched over a solitaryworktable in a small, tidy room is an artisan fully immersed in histask. Despite the intrusion of ourfootsteps on thewooden floorboards, his concentration does not break, evidently lost in his ownworld.It isn’t until our host taps him gently on the shoulderthat he looks up, a dazed smile forming on his face at the unexpected sight of the group of visitorsto his innersanctum. He has beenworking on decorating a dial, a slowand delicate processthat usually takes daysto complete. The tedium doesn’t bother him at all; in fact, hearing him talk about hisworkwith such pride and joy and seeing the beautifulresults, you can’t help but be moved by his dedication to his craft. To most, awatch is a purely utilitarian tool. But to folkslike him, awatch provides a channel to hone a highly specialised skill, expresstheir unique creativity, and discoverinnovativeways of telling time beyondwhat might have been thought possible. Behold thewatch, a masterful culmination of diverse talentsseamlessly fused into a singular object, eliciting a human emotional connectionwith remarkable ease. At Tatler GMT,we aim to tellstories of these wonderful experiences and know-how. Our mission as a premier horology platform in Asia issimple yet powerful: connectwatch enthusiaststhrough inspiring 360-degree content in print, digital, video, and social media. One of the key initiativesis an exclusive Tatler GMTclub ofwatch loverswhose sole mission isto curate unparalleled experiencesthat foster a deeper appreciation forthe art of timekeeping. The magazine that you have in your handsisjust the beginning of an exciting journeywherewe celebrate the passion and the precision that unite us all. Allow me to extend awarm welcome to Tatler GMT—the ultimate destination forwatch aficionados. LETTER FROM THEEDITOR Let the Good Times Roll Photo: Speake-Marin Tatler GMT 16
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CONTRIBUTORS JUSTIN NG Ng had hisstart in journalism with an influential independent political and business website in Malaysia, before pivoting to luxury publishing. Today, he contributesregularly to select magazinesin Asia. ANANDHI GOPINATH A passionatewriterwith wide-ranging interests, Anandhi coversthe luxury lifestyle scenewith a nuanced take onwhat discerning audiences look forwhen it comesto the good life. Shewrites primarily onwatches, wheels, andwhiskies, but thisjournalistwill neversay no to a good story. XERXES LEE A respected photographer who’s been in the industry for over10 years, Lee is known for his creative play on lighting and mood. Hiswork has appeared in major publicationslike Harper’s Bazaar and Icon. He has alsoworked on campaignsfor L’Oréal, Shiseido, and AirAsia. SARAH SAW A sought-after and versatile stylistwhowears many hats, Saw’sstylingwork forwatches has caught the attention of editors and brands around theworld, from Singapore to Portugal. She bringsthiswealth of experience to the cover of Tatler GMT’sinaugural issue. Most memorable interview “I was fortunate to have met Jean-Claude Biver in Singapore while he was still helming the LVMH watchmaking division. Being an influential voice of the industry, I was intrigued by his refreshing candour about his personal watch collection that went beyond the brands in his professional portfolio.” Most memorable interview “Anthony De Haas, the director of product development at A Lange & Söhne, was one of the first people I interviewed as a watch writer, and I had appreciated the way he used wit and good humour to break down complex complications.” Most memorable photoshoot “Cindy Bishop, whom I styled when she first started as a Channel V host way back in the 2000s. She had such presence and charisma. Till today, she’s a classy lady.” Most memorable photoshoot “Malaysian comedian and actor Zizan Razak, who was very humble and professional. He was game to try something new and did his best to give us what we wanted.” Tatler GMT 18
EDITOR’S PICKS TOP 10 WATCHES DRESS UP Say hello to a new member of the Rolex family: the Perpetual 1908, the first watch in the new Perpetual collection of classic contemporary watches. The “1908” in the name is derived from the year founder Hans Wilsdorf coined the name Rolex. The ultra-slim 39mm case, in white or yellow gold, comes with a white or a black dial and features a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the new Caliber 7140 constructed to include the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring and the Paraflex shock absorber, contributing to superlative chronometry. The leather strap is fitted with a Dualclasp—a double folding clasp—in gold that always sits at the centre of the wrist. Rolex 1908 Perpetual TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 20
LE FREAK, C’EST CHIC Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watch returns to its original simple but striking form—a movement that doubles as time indicators and a bezel taking on the duty of the crown. Nevertheless, it has been customised with brilliant innovations that have appeared since its inception in 2001. They include an escapement treated with DIAMonSIL (debuted in 2007), a silicon mainspring (2008), and a black DLC-coated titanium case similar to the one found on 2022’s Freak S. Ulysse Nardin Freak One
WORLDLY CHARM Taking Omega’s beloved Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer on a journey is more appealing than ever thanks to the new lightweight and resistant titanium case. The material tone complements the dial in classic grey and black as well as the black ceramic bezel. The sombre colours also offer a more dramatic interpretation of its most distinctive feature: a laserablated Earth as seen from the North Pole on the dial. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer
ON TIME For the first time, Patek Philippe has introduced the Annual Calendar to the Aquanaut collection, and has notably chosen to do so in a ladies’ watch. The brand says that women want more complications, and it is meeting this demand with the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, which is equipped with the new self-winding 26-330 S QA LU calibre. Crafted in rose gold with a blue-grey dial, it is the first Aquanaut Luce not set with gems. It features an inverted display for the day at 3 o’clock, the month at 9 o’clock, and the moon phase at 12 o’clock. While it is officially part of the ladies’ collection, at 39.9mm, we believe this timepiece possesses a unisex appeal. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
LASTING LEGACY Tatler GMT was privy to the reveal of this piece, along with many other stunning jewellery watches by Cartier at Watches and Wonders 2023. But one look at the Clash [Un]limited, and you realise wearing it is a statement in its own right. The bracelet alternates brushed and satin-finished gold, and one of the references features a new purple gold, which is made by combining yellow and rose gold. The watch is powered by a quartz movement and is waterresistant up to 30m. Cartier Clash [Un]limited
AQUATIC BRILLIANCE Famed watch designer Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 from the 1970s has been reinvented this year as the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40. Boasting the same bold aesthetic as its predecessor, it is available in four new models: three in stainless steel and one in titanium. The standout has to be the reference in stainless steel with an aqua dial; this blue-green shade is a new signature colour for the brand, and is enhanced with a “grid” design. All four Ingenieur Automatic 40 models are powered by the in-house 32111 calibre, with a power reserve of 120 hours and feature a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields. IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Tatler GMT Time Check 25
VINTAGE APPEAL What’s old feels new today, a sentiment that Panerai has taken to heart when conceiving the California Dial PAM01349 that now comes in a smaller case size of 45mm. The case is made of Brunito eSteel that has been treated to give it a weathered appearance. Matched with a California dial in green with its mix of Roman and Arabic numerals, its retro appearance is incorporated with modern touches, from the domed sapphire crystal to the P.5000 calibre with eight-day power reserve. Panerai California Dial Tatler GMT Time Check 26
Tatler GMT Time Check 27 HELLO GORGEOUS Trendy green is taken up a notch by Girard-Perragaux for this collaboration with Aston Martin, appearing not only on the dial, but also adorning the entire watch. This is rather remarkable considering the material for the case and bracelet is ceramic, which requires a complex process to take on a specific colour. And the Swiss manufacture managed to create a shade of green that matches the sunray green dial with crosshatching for a look that is truly captivating. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition
MEAN MACHINE Grand Seiko introduces its first mechanical chronograph with the Tentagraph that boasts a high-beat movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Developed in-house at its studio in Shizukuishi, the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 is developed from the base movement of Caliber 9SA5 and beats 10 times per second for superlative precision. More importantly, it features the energy-saving Dual Impulse Escapement, which transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel, both indirectly through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel. Grand Seiko Tentagraph Tatler GMT Time Check 28
Tatler GMT Time Check 29 PEAK PERFORMANCE With a new grey dial that mimics the icy surface of the Mer de Glace glacier in Mont Blanc, the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea evokes a sense of adventure, with the goods to back it up. It is certified ISO 6425 that has been tested against shock, temperature, and magnetic interference, and is water-resistant up to 300m. Highly legible under all conditions, its Superluminova emits a blue low light in keeping with the frosty theme. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Draw the Line Cartoon characters lend a whimsical touch to these timepieces By Brian Cheong T hey may be designed to milk nostalgia, but these are not the Mickey Mousewatches from your childhood. Still, the cartoon characters bring a sense of levity to the serious complexity of high-endwatchmaking, awelcome touch thatsomehow makes an 18k goldwatch lessintimidating—and perhaps even more relatable. Take, forinstance, Oris’ latest ProPilot that features an image of Kermit, the beloved banjo-playing Muppet frog. On the first day of every month, Kermit appearsin the date counter at 6 o’clock, hisjoyful face certain to bring a smile to yours. Taking a cue from Kermit, the entire dial is also in an atypicalshade of green. Otherwise, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a solidwatchwith a 39mm titanium case powered by in-house Caliber 400with a five-day powerreserve. Snoopy has been selected to adorn Seiko 5 Sports’ 55th anniversary limited editionwatch, the SRPK25. The image istaken from a previously published Peanuts strip, and showsthe beagle getting ready to ride thewaves,which is exactlywhat he is doing on the caseback. If you’re a Spidey fan, you’re going to love the luxe treatment he hasreceived from Audemars Piguet fortheRoyal Oak Concept Tourbillon. The second Marvel release from the Swiss manufacture after Black Pantherin 2021, the 3D Spider-Man inweb-slinging posture on the openworked dial isfashioned out ofwhite gold and meticulously hand-engraved to achieve an uncanny likeness. TIMECHECK TRENDS Clockwise, from above: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “SpiderMan”; Seiko 5 Sports SRPK25; Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Tatler GMT Time Check 30
Less isMore TRENDS Small cases are packing a big punch Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 30mm Omega Seamaster 38mm in Summer Blue Tudor Black Bay 31mm TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 3ĺ
Visual Arts Immerse yourself in the art of watchmaking Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Tweed Motif watch La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater TIMECHECK TRENDS Tatler GMT Time Check 34
Under the minimalistic fluid lines and the integrated bracelet lies a heart of unimaginable complexity unique to each model. The Streamliner Collection by H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner by H. Moser & Cie.
Dive Right In I t has been 70 yearssince Blancpain set a benchmark for divewatcheswith the Fifty Fathoms(1 fathom = 1.8288m). To mark this milestone, the Swiss manufacture has created three limited edition series, each consisting of 70 pieces. Two have been launched so far. The first isthe latest interpretation Blancpain celebrates 70 years of the iconic dive watch, Fifty Fathoms By Brian Cheong of the original Fifty Fathoms from 1953, updatedwith Caliber 1315with three barrels providing five-day powerreserve and a silicon balance spring.In a nod to the 70th anniversary, the oscillatingweight is crafted in platinum. In a first for a Fifty Fathoms, the polished steel case measures 42mm—regular models are in FOCUS
45mm,while limited editions are usually in 40mm. For distinction, the platinum rotor bearsthewords, “Fifty Fathoms 70th”,while the dial isinscribedwith “70th Anniversary Series1”. The second limited edition Fifty Fathoms expandsthe diving universewith the firstwristwatch with a three-hourscale on the rotating bezel,which islinked to a hand that makes a full turn on the dial in three hours. Pending patent, the idea isrelated to the Gombessa underwater expeditionsthatrequire long-duration deep dives. Tech Gombessa, asthiswatch is called, also commemoratesthe 10th anniversary of Gombessa,which was co-founded by Blancpainwith wildlife photographer Laurent Ballesta.Its bezel features a black ceramic inlay, instead of the usual sapphire, for greatertechnical appeal. Forimproved legibility, the dial comesin absolute blackwith luminescent block-shaped hour markersin orangewith blue emission. The case is Grade 23 titanium, chosen because it is exceptionally strong, incredibly light, and possesses hypoallergenic properties. Which is good, considering the case diameteris a hefty 47mm.It is equippedwith TIMECHECK a helium valvewith a maximum diving depth of 300m. Blancpain CEO Marc Hayek, Ballesta and the rest of the Gombessa divers have personally tested the prototypessince the development projectstarted in 2019. Having met the demanding requirements, the finalwatch is nowthe official timepiece of the Gombessa expeditions. The third—and final—limited editionwill be unveiled very soon, so stay tuned. From top: Platinum rotor; Fifty Fathoms in 42mm celebrating the 70th anniversary Opposite page, from top: Tech Gombessa in Grade 23 titanium with orange accents; the open caseback of Tech Gombessa Tatler GMT Time Check 37
HOROLOGY ANCIENNE Collector What’s to like? A keenwatch collector, thisfather passed on his knowledge to hisson,which gave them the idea of sharing their passion and incredible collectionwith the Instagram community. The posts are also filledwith fun anecdotes aswell as mistakesto avoid. The son’sfirst watch crushwas a Patek Philippe 5131,while the father discoveredwatchmaking as a teenagerwhen he opened the case of a Longinestimepiece out ofsheer curiosity. Why follow? They collect many brands, but theirflagship piece isthe Patek Philippe pocketwatch featuring enamel artistry by SuzanneRohr, a one-of-a-kind model that the father personally ordered from Philippe Stern. Afterfour years of production, the timepiecewas put on display in the Patek Philippe Museum for a decade before being returned to its proud owner. @horology_ancienne Best of Instagram @secondeseconde A collector and an artist to follow on Instagram as recommended by @perpetual.girl By Camille Guille ROMARIC ANDRÉ Artist What’s to like? Romaric André hasfun “hijacking” vintagewatch hands and replacing them withwitty redesigns and clever collagesthat he then posts on his account. One day, a watch brand contacted him to ask if hewasinterested in collaborating. Thisled to more brands getting in touch with him to co-create limited piecesthatsell out in a few hours and are highly prized by many collectors. Why follow? André’s method is all about deconstructing existing arrangements and going against the flow,resulting in strikingly original interpretations. He makesit look so easy but it actually is a lot of hardwork. Followhim to discoverthe many exciting projectsthat he hasin the pipeline, including his collaborationswith Furlan Marri and Isotope. TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 38
Urwerk’s UR-100 gets a sleek titanium makeover Grey Anatomy he UR-100 expands on thewandering hour concept quite cleverly by incorporating two indicationsforthe distance travelled by Earth on its axis aswell as around the sun. Thewhole idea might sound ahead of itstime but the concept is actually inspired by two ancient clocks. The wandering hoursatellite display where it travels along a 60-minute arc is an idea taken from a 17th-century Roman clock while the Earth indicators are inspired by a 19th-century pendulum clock once owned by Urwerk co-founder Felix Baumgartner’s dad. Perhaps a little explanation on how to read the indicationsisin order: The time display consists of three discs, each with an hour “hand” that journeys along the minute track at the lower end of the dial. Once one disc completes thistrip, it goes on to the show the distance travelled by Earth on its axisin 20 minutes(answer: 555km). Then it moves on to the next indication that displaysthe distance travelled by Earth around the sun in the same amount of time (answer: about 35,740km). This combination of time and space is a technical marvel that delivers a truly striking timepiece that is now more sleek than ever with its new titanium coat. From case to bracelet, the UR-100 V Magic T “evokesthe magic of titanium,” declares Baumgartner. “We’ve loved and admired raw titanium, and now we have it gleaming in full brilliance thanksto light,refined shot-blasting.” Baumgartner also noted that the design of the dial has been tweaked to make it easierto read the watch. “We added complexity to the dial that is now broken down into several elementsto give it more structure. Try to distinguish among the many levels of this 3D creation and you will discover that everything has been thought through right down to the smallest details, pushing the limits of perceptibility.” From top left: The new UR-100 comes in full titanium; UR-100 V Magic T measures time and space; indicating the distance travelled by Earth on its axis Tatler GMT 39
Pitch Perfect H ans Wilsdorf, the founder ofRolex,wanted to be more than a pioneerin the realm ofwristwatches; hewas determined to revolutionise them. In the early 20th century, pocket watcheswere still the norm while wristwatcheswere perceived asfancy jewellery—if you didn’t know, the first wristwatchwas made for awoman. What makes a Rolex a “Rolex”? Read on to discover how this Swiss brand continues to dominate in the psyche of watch collectors, budding and beyond By Brian Cheong But Wilsdorfwas a manwith a vision, and hewassure that if thewristwatch camewith robust characteristics, the idea ofwearing a timepiece on one’swristwould catch on. So he set out to prove that thewristwatch could be a precise, reliable andwaterproof instrument. But one cannot discount the design aspect either, a crucial element that FOCUS Tatler GMT Time Check 40
wearer, it also reduceswear-andtear of the crown since one doesn’t need to use itso much. Today, the autonomy ofRolexwatchesis up to 72 hours off thewrist. INNER STRENGTH To protect the movements against damage from dust andwater,Rolex also paysspecial attention to the casesthat house them. Technical advanceslike the Twinlock and Triplock crowns aswell asthe Ringlock system have bolstered the resistance of itswatches. They are allsubjected to higher pressure during testing stages, with the safety margin pushed up to an additional 10 per cent forthe Oyster model,which iswaterproof up to 100m. Divewatcheslike the Submariner,which iswaterresistant up to 300m, have an additionalsafety margin of 25 per This page, from top: Aesthetic check of a Jubilee bracelet; watches are tested for waterproofness in a hyperbaric tankě Opposite page, from top: Each Rolex watch is distinguished by superlative performance; winding system via a Perpetual rotor has madeRolexwatchesinstantly recognisable on anywrist. TIMING ACCURACY The utilitarian aspect of thewatch— timekeeping—was Wilsdorf ’s main priority.In 1914, Wilsdorf got an early validationwhenRolex received a class“A” certificate from Kew Gardensin England, the world’s highest authority at the time for measuringwatch precision Thisis an unbroken legacy as chronometric precision remains a central focus atRolex. Today, everyRolex movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)while its assembledwatches must passthe internal Superlative Chronometer test before they go out to the public. Proving its commitment,Rolex boaststwo separate sitesforits movements—one in Biennewhere the components are manufactured and assembled, and anotherin Acaciaswhere the movements and cases are assembled and undergo a series of unparalleled tests. EveryRolexwatch is guaranteed to have an exceptional precision of -2/+2 seconds per day, a feat unique toRolex Manufacture. PERPETUAL MOTION Rolex effectively removed the need towind awatch to keep it workingwith the invention of the self-winding system in 1931.The Perpetualrotor powers up thewatch with just the movement of thewrist. Thisis not only convenient to the cent during testing. The Sea-Dweller is able to survive a depth of 1,220m, while theRolex Deepsea can dive all theway down to 3,900m without suffering any damage. SIGNATURE STYLE Fromthe robustfeatures ofthe Cosmograph Daytona to the distinguishing counters ofthe DayDate,Rolexwatches are distinctive with a timeless appeal. Proprietary materialslike Oystersteel andEverose gold lend themfurther distinction. Even the bracelets have their own identities—among them, the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets. One bracelet gained its name because of the personwearing it—the President bracelet that exclusively accompaniesthe Day-Date,which received its moniker afteritwas spotted on thewrist of US President Lyndon B. Johnson. TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 41
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 42
The Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25721 from 1993, known as “The Beast” S omewatches are pioneers, the first to take a major leap forward and establish a benchmark. TheRoyal Oak Offshore is one such example. In terms ofsize and style, not to mention masculine allure, the Royal Oak Offshore redefined contemporary standards. At the time of its birth in 1993,watches were considered huge at 40mm in diameter and almost 12mm thick. Thiswasthe thoroughly modest landscapewithinwhich the Royal Oak Offshore made itsfirst appearance. MORE IS MORE At the request of its German market, Audemars Piguet made a radical decision.It took an emblematic model—theRoyal Oak, an icon in itself—and reshaped it by accentuating all of itsfeatures. The Royal Oak Offshore thusresembles theRoyal Oak, notably the integrated case-braceletstructure and the eight-sided bezel featuring screwswith slotsset at a tangent to the circle. Yet everything about it is exaggerated: bigger, thicker, more pronounced, more bevelled,raised higher. So much so that thiswatch quickly earned a nickname,“The Beast”,whichwe nowknowalludes to its beloved and highly coveted status. DETAILS This chronographwas based on the ‘6’, ‘9’, ‘12’ configuration, considered ICON The Royal Oak Offshore has charted an incredible course over the past 30 years ByDavid Chokron Royal Treatment sportierthan the ‘3’, ‘6’, ‘9’style of theRoyal Oak chronographs. The tachymeterscale on the flange said it all, being graduated up to 500 km/h. The diameterwas expanded to 42mm, the thicknessto 14mm, and theweight to 220g—allrecords at the time. The bezelwas also thicker. The applied hour-markerswere round,ringed and contrasting. Not to mention—once again,well ahead of itstime—thewatch debutedwith a dial in a very rare colour: blue. The braceletwas based on the same original mesh, butwith a more pronounced curve, like a flexed arm to showoff its muscles. Needless to say, theRoyal Oak Offshorewas unique and itssuccess proved more Tatler GMT Time Check 43
than proportional to its cost.It also embodied awillingnessto innovate, a realm thatAudemars Piguet almost exclusively reserved forthis collection.Think forged carbon, ceramic,rubber-moulded crown, technical fabric strap, and grand complicationsin a super-sporty case. In short, it adopted all the current codes of hyper-sportinesswell before anyone else did. EVOLUTION Sizes have varied overthe past 30 years, from 30mm forthe ladiesto think about it. The anniversary of theRoyal Oak Offshore is giving rise to several launches, including a 42mm that is very close in design and dimensionsto the original except that it is adorned in black ceramic. Then there isthe tribute to the 1999 model created in collaboration with Schwarzeneggerfor his horror-action movie End of Days. The 43mm watch is crafted in black ceramicwith yellowaccents, including the stitching on the black calfskin strapwith textile effect. 48mm to fit the Terminatorframe of Arnold Schwarzenegger,whowas one of theworld’s most bankable actors and perhapsthe biggest fan of theRoyal Oak Offshore. It has assumed increasingly bold colour codes,spurred on by an unprecedented partnership policy. The Offshore isthus not just a design or brand story.It is one of the first watchesto be adopted by the most prominent personalities and athletes. They could have theirlimited series and theirsay on the design, years before anyone else even dared to Arnold Schwarzenegger and his 48mm Offshore T3, worn in Terminator 3 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm in black ceramic celebrating the 30th anniversary of the model Tatler GMT Time Check 44
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm in tribute to Schwarzenegger’s “End of Days” model from 1999 “In 1999, thecollaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger for the Royal Oak Offshorestarted puttingthecollection on the map ofa wider publicfor the first time ”- François-Henry Bennahmias, CEOof Audemars Piguet Tatler GMT Time Check 45
Morethan a Pretty Face Patek Philippe’s latest Gondolo Serata timepiece embodies the extraordinary heritage of the Gondolo collection, exemplifying its Art Deco spirit ByKatherine Arteche D efined by the strong lines, geometric simplicity and timelessness characterising the Art Deco style, Patek Philippe’s decorated Gondolo collection istoday a gathering point forthe Genevan luxurywatch manufacture’s “form watches”—itsterm fortimepieceswhose cases are not classically round. While it did notstart out as a collection of timepiecesfor public consumption, it hassince become one of the first linesladies seeking simple, bold elegance turn to. With its ornate details andwarm hues, the new Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001—perhaps more than any other Gondolo family member—epitomisesthe collection’ssoul and looksset to join the ranks of iconic Patek Philippe dresswatches. THE GONDOLO CLUB Officially launched in the early 1990s, the Gondolo range hasrootsin Brazil that go asfar back as1872—when Brazilianwatch dealer Carlos Gondolo first traded Patek Philippewatches.In 1890, he merged the business with Paulo Labouriau, a fellowpeerin thewatch and jewellery trade business, togetherforming the company Gondolo&Labouriau. By thistime, Gondolo had established a relationshipwith Patek Philippe,with the Swisswatchmaker designing exclusive pocket watchesfortheRio de Janeiro-basedwatch retailer thatwere sold only to the 180 members of awatch collectors’ club dubbed The Gondolo Gang—whereby membershipwas dictated by an obsession to own one of the aforementioned. Among thesewasthe Chronometro Gondolo pocketwatch of 1902,which displayed the hours, minutes and seconds(later versionswould feature 24-hour dials or chronograph functions), andwas distinguished by a geartrain made from 9-karat gold aswell as an ébauche (a movement blank) based on a drawing by Patek Philippe co-founder Jean Adrien Philippe. TIMECHECK A satin-finished calfskin strap, along with a warm colourway, lends lustre and an air of opulence to the new Patek Philippe Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001. Opposite page, from top: The rose gold case is set with 94 spessartites totalling 2.02 carats; the time-only watch runs on a quartz movement, the Calibre E 15 FOCUS Tatler GMT Time Check 46
To boost the sale of the Chronometro Gondolo, the retailer came upwith a purchase scheme called Plano do Club Patek Philippe System,which allowed customersto pay fortheirwatchesthroughweekly instalments over a defined number ofweeks. Also included underthe scheme:weekly lottery draws held across everyweek of the defined period,whereby the winnerwould be rewardedwith their pocketwatch, halting any further payments. (Thosewhowere notso fortunatewould receive their pocketwatches at the end of the scheduled payment period.) The businessscheme, awin-win for all involved—the retailersold its Patek Philippewatches eitherway,while brand enthusiastswere offered affordability aswell as multiple chancesto land their covetedwatch forless than full price—wasso successful that it expanded to over 200watch clubsthroughout Brazil,which in total sold more than 22,000 Pateks until the late 1920s,which waswhen the first Gondolowristwatches appeared. The clubs became a great avenue to form watch communities, and the phenomenon even coined its own lingo:“Patek” became a substitute forthe noun “watch”; instead of buying awatch, you bought a Patek—even if it was not a Patek Philippe at all. A NEW AGE Overtime, the Gondolo collection, named after Gondolo&Labouriau,withwhom the brand enjoyed a strong relationship until 1927, adopted various designs,shapes and forms. Forinstance, the early Gondolo ladies’wristwatchesfrom 1993, in particular Reference 4824 andReference 4825,sported slim rectangular cases,with curvature from the lugs down to the bracelet links. (Theywould serve asthe blueprint forthe brand’sfirst Twenty~4 collection, launched laterin 1999.) Modern iterations of the Gondolowristwatches got the high jewellery treatment,which sawthe cushionand tonneau-shaped cases emblazonedwith precious stones. Of note isthe first Gondolo Serata (Italian for “evening”)Reference 4972, a time-onlywatchwhose hourglass-shaped casewith just two numbers—“12” and “6”—on its guillochéd mother-of-pearl dialset the tone for an elegant ladies’ eveningwatch. Debuted at Watches and Wonders 2023, the rose gold iteration,Reference 4962/200R-001, providesthe option for awarmer colourway. Decorated yetsubtle, a brown lacquered dial, featuring a floral motif that plays up the contrast between its matt and polished finishes, looks out from a bejewelled frame,where 94 brilliant-cut spessartites,ranging in huesfrom cognac to mandarin, are arranged in a gradientsetting,with the lightercoloured stones accentuating the case’stapered centre. Powered by the Calibre E 15 quartz movement, the timepiece comeswith a complementary satin-finished brown calfskin strap to complete the look. Tatler GMT Time Check 47
Sixty Years of Tearing Up the Tarmac ICON Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph A racing fan as well as a lover of architecture and design, Jack Heuer launched the Tag Heuer Carrera chronograph in 1963. His vision for this watchmaking icon was of legibility and functionality which, 60 years later, drives on with undeniably daring panache By Marie de Pimodan T he year1963was one of noteworthy firsts around theworld and across cultural fields. The Beatlesreleased theirfirst album, Please Please Me. The Porsche 911wasfirst unveiled to the public.Russian Cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova became the firstwoman in space. However, watchmaking historywillrememberthis yearforthe birth of the nowfamous Carrera. This chronographwas the first model designed by Jack Heuer, the then CEO ofwatch company Tag Heuer. TIMECHECK Tatler GMT Time Check 48