Jack Heuer with race car driver Joe Siffert Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Heuer Carrera 2447S “I loved not only thesexysound of the word carrera butalso its multiple meanings, which includeroad, race, courseand career ” INSPIRED BY RACING A devotee of clean, modern lines, a discerning aesthete and a great admirer of thework of Charles Eames, Le Corbusier, Eero Saarinen and Oscar Niemeyer, Heuerwas determined to create a chronograph tha combined aesthetic restraint with technical efficiency, alongwith at-a-glance readability—an especially useful characteristicwhen driving. The Carrerawas named afterthe Carrera Panamericana, the most demanding and dangerous endurance rally in theworld at the time.“[When] Ifirst heard the Spanishword carrera,”says Heuerin his autobiographical book The Times of my Life,“Iloved not only itssexy sound but also its multiple meanings,which include road,race, course and career. All very much Heuerterritory!” The newwatchwas a timelessly elegant chronographwith a shock-resistant case and a noticeably large dial thanksto the thinness of the bezel. In 1969, the collection shifted into high gearwith the Carrera Chronomatic Calibre 11, one of theworld’s first automatic chronographs. Tag Heuer negotiated thistechnicalshift perfectly and at fullspeed—and to great acclaim. Witnessthe list of the illustriousracing driverswho have adopted the Carrera acrosssuccessive generations: Joe Siffert, Jackie Ickx, ClayRegazzoni, Mario Andretti, Jody Scheckter and, more recently, David Coulthard, KimiRäikkönen, Fernando Alonso, Lewis Hamilton and Alain Prost. ELEGANCE ON THE TRACK In the six decadessince its creation, the Carrera has remained part of the circuit, and ahead of its 60th anniversary, Tag Heuer had every intention of continuing itslegacy. One of the standout additionsto the family include a CarreraRed Dial in a 600-piece limited edition with a 39mm steel case framing a crimson red dial and powered by the high-precision automatic movement called Calibre Heuer 2. Another version seesthe Carrera in a chic, all yellow-gold livery; itslook is reminiscent ofReference 1158 CHN, the first yellowgold Carrera model launched in 1970 and known to be Heuer’s favourite. With its 42mm case topped by a thin bezel aswell asits deep black dial featuring two yellowgold counters, this Carrera isthe epitome ofsophistication.It also flaunts a key trump card in the form of confidently asserted classicism, a guarantee of timelessness—today and hopefully for a long time to come. Tatler GMT Time Check 49
Chanel looks to the vast expanse beyond Earth’s atmosphere for inspiration for its Interstellar collection Space Charm J12 Mademoiselle Cosmic Tatler GMT 50
fiction,space, and time travel but with the emblematicChanel touches andwit.The result is, darewe say, out of thisworld. Let’s discoverthem all now. J12 X-RAY STAR Setwith 196 baguette diamonds and one brilliant-cut diamond, the openworked dialrevealsin-house Caliber 3.1sitting inside an 18kwhite gold case. J12 DIAMOND TOURBILLON In place of a traditional tourbillon is a solitaire diamond thatrotates according to the rhythm of the flying tourbillon. J12 STAR LIGHT Bringing a unique sparkle are 214 baguette diamondsset on the bezel, crown, and the entire dial. J12 ECLIPSE BOX A one-of-a-kind set ofseven watchesthat progressively goes from all-white ceramic to all-black ceramic. J12 HYPER CYBERNATIC Black ceramic isjuxtaposed against a pixelated motif ofwhite diamonds for an edgy luxe appearance. Monsieur Tourbillon Meteorite J12 Star Light J12 Hyper Cybernetic With both the Star Wars and Star Trek universes continuously expandingwith no end in sight, our enduring fascinationwith outerspace remains at a robustlevel.ArnaudChastaingt, Chanel’s director ofwatchmaking, seemsto share thissentimentwhen he unveiled a rather expansive capsule collection called Interstellar atWatches&Wonders 2023. Consisting of J12 (which alone has11 interpretations), Première, Boy•Friend, andCodeCoco, the collection presents a series of timepiecesinspired by science J12 Eclipse Tatler GMT 51
Lion Astroclock J12 Diamond Tourbillon Première Robot Première X-Ray J12 Spatiotemporal J12 CYBERNETIC Yet another graphic interpretation with black andwhite ceramic contrast, completewith a ceramic dial. J12 SPATIOTEMPORAL Black andwhite diamondstake centre stage in this unique pair of watches, each limited to 12 pieces. J12 NIGHT STAR 38MM AND 33MM Part of a high jewellery collection, thewatchesfeature a seconds hand in the shape of a shooting star. J12 MADEMOISELLE COSMIC The dial features a motif of Gabrielle Chanel in a black-and-white gown, her handsserving as both the hour and minute hands. J12 INTERSTELLAR A timeless all-black interpretation embellishedwith six diamondswith a cometseconds hand. J12 COSMIC The polar opposite of J12 Interstellar, this vision inwhite charmswith 12 diamonds and a cosmic motif against a phosphorescent dial. PREMIÈRE HYPER LUCKY STAR A comet charm setwith six brilliantcut diamondsimmediately catches attention on thiswhite goldwatch that is also adornedwith diamonds on the bracelet and the dial. PREMIÈRE LUCKY STAR A black lacquered dial makes a striking contrast against the diamond-set case and charm. PREMIÈRE CAMELIA X-RAY The enduring symbol of the camelia flowerisinterpreted as part of the skeleton movement. PREMIÈRE X-RAY Crafted inwhite gold, the dial is setwith 191 brilliant-cut diamonds with a feminine bracelet ofsapphire crystal andwhite gold links. Tatler GMT 52
Penélope Cruz, MargotRobbie, and Zhou Xun starin the newJ12 “It’s All About the Seconds” campaign inwhich the ladies arewearing the newJ12 33mm in black or white ceramic and powered by the automatic Caliber12.2 developed by Kenissi,which is owned by Chanel. THE STARS ARE ALIGNED Première Camelia X-Ray Code Coco Cybergold PREMIÈRE ROBOT Like its name suggests, a 3D robot in yellowgold, ceramic, titanium, onyx and diamondsformsthisfascinating Premièrewatch. BOYFRIEND CYBERDATA The dial is printedwith a circuit board setwith diamonds.It comes with a black quilted leatherstrap. CODE COCO CYBERGOLD The new Code Coco is distinguished by a golden calfskin strapwith quilted effect. MONSIEUR TOURBILLON METEORITE The force isstrongwith this one. The majestic lion—a beloved Chanel emblem because Gabrielle is a Leo—sitsinside the tourbillon cage surrounded by a dial made from meteorite. LION ASTROCLOCK The lion sits guard belowa glass globe containing a manualwinding movement designed by Chanel Watchmaking Creative Studio and made by L’Epée. BoyFriend Cyberdata Tatler GMT 53
A Sincere Timeto Shine Sincere Fine Watches will open its largest SHH boutique in Asia at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, unveiling a new concept that highlights the intricacies of top independent watchmakers By Anandhi Gopinath F ollowing the opening of Sincere Fine Watches’ independent brand salon SHH (which stands for Sincere Haute Horlogerie) in Singapore last year, the luxurywatch retailer has nowexpanded itsrefreshed retail concept to Malaysia. The Kuala Lumpur outpostwill be the largest of its kind in Asia, and aimsto offer an elevated luxury experience forthe most discerningwatch collectorsin a stunning,wellappointed space. The Pavilion Kuala Lumpursalon’s pièce de résistancewill be the main display area, designed to be almost museum-likewith thewatches positioned like works of art to be savoured and enjoyed. The expansive space also includes a private lounge and a fine dining nook for exclusive eventswith Michelin-starred chefs from the region and around theworld, celebrating the very best in gastronomic talent and independent watchmaking. Almost 20 independent brandswill call SHHPavilion WHO TO WATCH KualaLumpur home, a listthatissure to growin time to come.Let’s discoverthemnow, in alphabetical order. ANGELUS Founded in 1891 by the brothers Stolz in Le Locle, Switzerland, Angelusforged a fine reputation forits exceptional chronographs and multi-complication watches.Its chronograph timepieces became very popularin the 1930s andwerewidely imported by German and French retailers. Most notable of thesewasthe Chronodate, theworld’s firstserially produced chronographwith calendar function, aswell as a doctor’swatch that included two scalesforreading patients’ vitals—a pulsometerto measure heartrate and an asthmometerto measure respiratory rate. The quartz crisis pushed Angelus out of business until itwasrevived in 2015 by La Joux-Perret,which resulted in the release of innovative and modern SHH in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore Tatler GMT Time Check 54
complications.Itslatestrelease, togetherwith Massena Lab,reworksthe Chronographe Médical for a contemporary audience. ARMIN STROM When masterwatchmaker Armin Strom retired, the reins of the companywere passed to entrepreneur Serge Michel and masterwatchmaker Claude Greisler; they often frequented hisworkshop during their childhood. In 2009, the brandwas revitalisedwith the opening of its first fully-integrated manufacture in Biel, Switzerland. In 2016, Armin Strom introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance, a game-changing resonating dualregulator developed for maximum chronometric precision, and onewith a captivating oscillation mechanism on the dial. CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW Visionary DutchwatchmakerChristiaan van derKlaauw established his eponymous brand in 1974, captivating the horologicalworldwith hismastery of astronomical watches. Garnering accoladeslike the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021, histimepieces are truly exceptional.Van derKlaauw, 79, honed hisskills through self-taught expertise and formal education atthe School forInstrumentMakersinAmsterdam.His niche in astronomicaltimepiecesmakes hiswatches highly sought after. Notable piecesinclude the CVDK Planetarium, featuring a mesmerising mechanical planetarium displaying the celestial positions, the CVDKReal Moon Jourewith its 3D moon phase indicatorwith exceptional accuracy, and the CVDK Orion,which impresseswith a planisphere accurate for over 400 years. CREDOR Credor, the prestigiousluxurywatch brand owned by the Seiko Watch Corporation, epitomises Japanese craftsmanship and elegance.Itstimepieces blend traditional techniqueswith contemporary design, handcrafted at the Shinshu Studio using metiers d’art like lacquerwork, engraving, and gem-setting. Credor showcasesits expertise in materials, incorporating diamonds,sapphires, and unique dialswith Urushi lacquer or Maki-e art. The Eichi collection represents minimalist elegance, the Fugaku Tourbillon boasts mesmerising complications,while the Signo collection blends modern aesthetics and traditional craftsmanship. CVSTOS Since its establishment in 2005 by visionaries Sassoun Sirmakes and Antonio Terranova, Cvstos has graced the realm of luxury Swisswatchmakingwith its audaciousingenuity and meticulous artistry.Revered forits avant-garde designs, Cvstosstands as a beacon of innovation,seamlessly melding cutting-edge materials such as carbon fibre and titanium with traditional craftsmanship. Collaborationswith iconslike Cafu and automotive maestro Pagani have yielded limited editionsthat epitomise the brand’sfusion of horology and artistry. From the assertive allure of the Challenge collection to the graceful femininity ofRe-Belle, Cvstos unveils a tapestry of collections, each a testament to the brand’s unwavering pursuit of excellence. CZAPEK Until thewatch company founded by François Czapek shuttered its doors at the end of the 19th century, it enjoyed a reputation for crafting exceptional timepieces, favoured by European royalty and intellectuals of the time. The companywasrevived in 2015, but uniquely, fellowenthusiastswere given the opportunity to invest through an equity crowdfunding campaign,whichwas— and stillremains—an industry first. In 2016, Czapekwon the Public Prize at the Grand TIMECHECK From left: Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Green; Czapek Antarctique S; Fabergé Compliquée Peacock Arte Platinum HandPainted Limited Edition Tatler GMT Time Check 55
Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève forits Quai des Bergues. Every yearsince, it has unveiled a newwatchwith a new calibre named afterthe citiesinwhich François once opened a boutique. FABERGÉ Fabergé is often associatedwith its eggs, an art it masters in combining quality and magnificent colours. But Peter Carl Fabergéwas a visionary, and applied his exquisite gold-smithing skills and artisan traditionsto clocks and watches. The brand’s commitment to haute horlogerie is exemplified by collaborationswith the likes of movement manufacturer Agenhor. One notable collection from Fabergé isthe Visionnaire series,which showcases a fresh interpretation of howtime is presented on the dial. Thesewatchesfeature innovative complications and a distinctive aesthetic thatset them apart. FERDINAND BERTHOUD Ferdinand Berthoudwas born in 1727 in Val-de-Travers, a region of Switzerland he leftwhile still a young man to complete histraining in Paris. Hisskill as a clockmaker quickly became apparent, and in 1753, hewas awarded the title of Master Horologist by special decree of the Council of King Louis XV. Chopard co-president KarlFriedrich Scheufele acquired the brand and relaunched it in 2015. Honouring the maison’sspirit of excellence, the precision of Ferdinand Berthoud movements isrecognised and certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), just as Ferdinand Berthoud’slongitudewatcheswere tested by the highestscientific authorities of histime. GREUBEL FORSEY Founded in 2004, Greubel Forsey has earned a reputation for cutting-edge mechanics, exceptional chronometry, and quality hand-finishing. Within a few years, it achieved huge acclaim, includingwinning the Aiguille d’Ortwice at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. One of its crowning achievementsisthe invention of the Double Tourbillon 30°,which inclined the balance at a 30-degree angle, a move that makesthe gravitycorrecting tourbillon better adapted to thewrist. Since 2020, co-founderRobert Greubel has entrusted CEO Antonio Calce to take the lead; among Calce’s priorities nowis overseeing the expansion of the Greubel Forsey Atelier Manufacture, to be ready by 2026, thatwill integrate newskills and triple in size. H. MOSER & CIE. Thewatch company founded by Heinrich Moser took root in Schaffhausen in 1828. Underthe present stewardship of the Meylan family, H. Moser&Cie.still hasthe spirit of entreprenuership at its core.Its CEO Edouard Meylan hasinfused the company’swatches with a distinctwit,while upholding the strictest standards of timekeeping excellence. Moser’sreal accomplishments have been its innovation—stunning fume dials boasting pure, uncluttered designs, unique materials, and flawlessly finished in-house movements. HAUTLENCE An anagram of Neuchâtel, Hautlence’sraison d’être isto pay tribute to the birthplace ofwatchmaking. Recognised foritsiconic TV-shaped case and original conceptsin movement and time, Hautlence’stimepieces are a product of the brand’s youthful team of designers who aim to bring a newvision to the art ofwatchmaking, while respecting itsroots. Last yearmarked a newchapterinHautlence’s history asit adopted a contemporary and sporty approach to its designs,startingwith theLinear Series1.The completely newwatch showed off a different approach to telling time, its ninth in-house calibre, and a newcase designwith an integrated rubberstrap boasting awaterresistance of10 atm. Then there isthe newVagabondeXBlackBadger, which is all aboutthree dimensionality and contrast, and the interaction between positive and negative spaces. LANG & HEYNE Nowbased inRadeberg but originally founded in 2001 by Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne in Dresden, Lang & Heyne is an independent Germanwatchmaker that thrives on pushing the traditionalwatchmaking envelope. Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe Tatler GMT Time Check 56
Taking design cuesfrom Saxonian pocketwatches of the 19th century, every Lang& Heyne model is named after a prominetruler of Saxony.Itswatches pay homage to traditional Germanwatchmakingwith modern interpretationsforthe contemporarywatch connoisseur. LAURENT FERRIER Despite Laurent Ferrier’srelative youth in the watchmaking industry—itwasfounded in 2010—the maison’s eponymousfounder bringsto the table many years of invaluable experience. Upon embarking on hisjourneywith his own brand, Ferrierimmediately established a reputation for exquisite timepiecesthat combined traditional craftsmanshipwith contemporary sensibilities. Laurent Ferrier’sfirst timepiece, the Classic Tourbillon Double Hairspring,won the best men’swatch at the Grand Prix de d’Horlogerie de Genève.Itstimepieces often display a retro-inspired charm, evoking a sense of nostalgia for classicwatch design. LOUIS MOINET As an accomplished artist,scholar andwatchmaker, Louis Moinet’sstory isimpressive enough—he is also the oft-forgotten inventor of the chronograph—but the tale of the brand’srevival in 2014 by Jean-Marie Schalleris even more fascinating Schaller hassuccessfully anchored Louis Moinet in a respectable corner of independentwatchmaking, while upholding the values of creativity, uniqueness, exclusivity, art and design. Thistranslatesto bespoke timepieces, high-end complications, and the innovative use of exotic materialslike moon meteorites and fossilised dinosaur bonesto create truly one-of-a-kind timepieces. MORITZ GROSSMANN Moritz Grossmannwas an exceptionally gifted 19th centurywatchmakerwho set up shop developing technically outstanding timepiecesin Glashütte, the German cradle ofwatchmaking.It took almost 100 years after his death forthe brand to be resurrected. Amid the economic downturn of 2008, industry veteran Christine Hutter acquired the rightsto the Moritz Grossmann name and established awholly newbrand thatwould combine the best of modern watchmakingwith the legacy left by Grossmannwho was also the co-founder of the historically significant (but nowdefunct) German School of Watchmaking. Moritz Grossmann’s collections are named after Egyptian deities, Benu (forrebirth and creation) and Tefnut (forfemininity). A notablewatch isthe Benu Tourbillon, theworld’sfirst to use a human hair as an integral part of its movement. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Trained as awatchmaker and restorer,Michel Clockwise from above: Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto; H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon SHH Edition; Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Parmigiani cut histeethworking on breathtaking horological creationsmadewell before histime, including importanttimepiecesfromthePatekPhilippeMuseum and theChâteau desMonts.Itisthisincredible arsenal of knowledge thatParmigiani broughtto the table when he established his eponymousmaison in 1996. The brand’sfirstwatch, the Toric QPRetrograde, featured the alternating gadroons and detailed knurling thatwould become one of the maison’s aesthetic signatures. Asit embarked on a journey to become a fully integrated manufacture, Parmigiani continued to unveil elegant timepiecesthat manifested the founder’s restrained sense ofstyle. These include the newTonda PF Sport, available as a chronograph and as an automatic, that embodiesthe principles ofsport elegance. Tatler GMT Time Check 57
TIMECHECK T he biennial Only Watch charity auction returnsthis yearwith no lessthan 62 lotsfrom 73watchmakers. Nowin its10th edition, itwas founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, with the purpose ofraising fundsto accelerate research in Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD), a genetic condition that leadsto the progressiveweakening of all muscles, including the heart. Held underthe patronage of Prince AlbertII of Monaco, it mobilisesthewatch industry to create unique timepieces every two yearsto be auctioned off. All proceeds go towardsresearch on DMD and other genetic diseases. Some of the biggest namesin the industry, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith, aswell asindependent playerslike Andersen Genève and RexhepRexhepi are supporting the charity auction this year. Here are 10 Only Watch Editions to teasewhat’sin store at the auction thatwill be held by Christie’sin Geneva on November 5, 2023. To see all thewatches, visit onlywatch.com. FOCUS These one-of-a-kind creations are not only worthy additions to your watch collection, they also exist for a good cause Timefor Good Takashi Murakami lends his touch to this unique MP-15 Murakami Tourbillon that combines the Japanese artist’s whimsical smiling flower with Hublot’s firstever central tourbillon. Tatler GMT Time Check 58
Bell & Ross is proud and loud with the BR 03 Cyber Rainbow and its multitude of colours that spill from the titanium case onto the rubber strap. This is complemented with a 3D skeleton movement with 48 hours of power reserve. A great-looking watch to bring on your travels, the Breguet Marina Hora Mundi 5555 features a jumping time zone at 12 o’clock of the intended city that can be set at 6 o’clock. All these are placed against a striking backdrop of Earth complete with a gold base decorated with a hand-guilloche wave pattern. Chanel delivers a pair of black and white ceramic Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa powered by the self-winding Caliber 12.1. They are named after Coco Chanel’s villa in the South of France where she was photographed in a striped jersey and sailor pants. Tatler GMT Time Check 59
For the Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata, the French brand has recreated the famous portrait of Albert Einstein with grisaille enamelling by Nicolas Doublel from La Fabrique du Temps, which is owned by Louis Vuitton. Chopard L.U.C 1860 in 36.5mm Lucent Steel case comes with an ice green dial with guilloche. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, which was first created in 2022 to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, has found a new expression in white ceramic with a skeleton movement in blue. The hour markers and hands are in white gold. Tatler GMT Time Check 60 Tatler GMT Time Check 60
Tiffany & Co. reimagines its iconic Bird on a Rock as a pendant watch with a diamondset dial inside a faceted aquamarine crystal of over 34 carats. The bird is crafted in platinum and set with diamonds, and has sapphire for its eyes and yellow gold for its claws. Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph is powered by an entirely new movement, Caliber TH81-00. The redesigned case is crafted in texturised titanium and paired with titanium pushers and crown. Tatler GMT Time Check 61
Tatler GMT 62
The new Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton is a brilliant testament to the French maison’s watchmaking savoir-faire globally renowned fashion house coveted forits monogram bags, Louis Vuitton takes its commitment to the finest in craftsmanship seriously, an approach that is also extended to itstimepieces. Astutely avoiding the notion of a fashionwatch, Louis Vuitton showcasesits haute horlogerie ambitionwith its own dedicated watch department overseen by Jean Arnault, the youngest heir to the LVMH empire, and master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.It also owns La Frabrique Du Tempsin Meyrin, Switzerland, awatch manufacturing facility founded by Navas and Barbasini that makesthe highconcept movements populating its watches. The newVoyager Skeleton adds another brilliant testament to the manufacture’ssavoir-faire. For one, it is Louis Vuitton’sfirst automatic time-only skeleton movement, developed in collaborationwith Le Cercle des Horlogersin Neuchatel. Named the LV60, it is designed to be the horological equivalent of contemporary architecturewith the “LV”initialstaking centre stage asthe movement bridgesthat are visible on the dial. Though aesthetically sparse, the movement is ultimately the Haute Pursuit This page: Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton in platinum Opposite page: The Voyager Skeleton showcases the architectural beauty of LV60 movement Tatler GMT 63
Clockwise from top: Applying the blue hand; the bridges in the form of “LV”; offcentre micro-rotor Tatler GMT 64
showpiece of thiswristwatch, which echoesthe dynamic beauty of the billowing glassstructure of the Fondation Louis Vuitton designed by Frank Gehry. Hence, no effort isspared in itsfinishing and decoration, even in spotsthat may not be so easily seen. The rotor bridge features a discreet monogram while the barrelratchet wheel has been open-worked to spell“Louis Vuitton”. The rhodium-plated components are decoratedwith fine linear graining on the top surfaces, chamfered around the edges, and sandblasted on the undersides. The bidirectional micro-rotoris made of highly durable tungsten, positioned off-centre to maximise the visual beauty of the movement. Housing the LV60 is a platinum case, a first fortheVoyager. Platinum is prized foritslustrousshine, the surfaces mirror-polished for extra brilliance.The sides are satinfinished for nice contrast.Another interesting aspect of the case, which isshaped like a cushion, isits monocoque constructionwhere the case middle and bezel are one. The monochromatic appearance is broken up by the blue minute ring and a pair of blue hands. Thanks to the openness of thewatch, one can discernwhetherthewatch isfully charged or otherwise by looking at the mainspring—tightly coiled meansit’s at full powerwhile a looser coil meansit needsto be winded. By theway, the maximum powerreserve is 48 hours. The Voyager Skeleton is paired with either a navy blue alligator ortaurillon strapwith platinum ardillon buckle. Thewords“Limited Edition” are engraved on the sapphire caseback to indicate its exclusive production of only 150 pieces. Thistruly exceptionalwatch further consolidates Louis Vuitton’s standing as a haute playerto keep a closewatch on in the industry. Tatler GMT 65
DIALUP PHOTOGRAPHY XERXES LEE Tatler GMT Dial Up 66
COVER STORY Precision Matters From left: Longines Conquest Chronograph with gold dial; a vintage flyback chronograph with two independent pushers from 1928 Opposite page: Longines Spirit Flyback with black dial Tatler GMT Dial Up 67 After more than half a century, the highly sophisticated flyback chronograph makes a return to Longines By Brian Cheong L ongines earned a stellar reputation in its early days as a producer of timekeepers of superlative precision. Over time, itsintimate associationwith sporting eventsfrom theRoyal Ascot to the Birmingham 2022 Commonwealth Games has only burnished itsreputation in this department. Yetit hastakenmore than 50 years forLonginesto revisitthe flyback chronograph, amechanismit had a pioneering role in developing.Well, wait nomore:the flyback is back in the new—and aptly named—Flyback Spirit and itlookslike it’s here to stay for awhile longer. Butfirst, let’srediscoverLongines’ rich chronograph legacy. THE WONDER YEARS Sporty and sophisticated,the chronograph has a long history dating back to the early 19th century. Longineswas one ofthe pioneers in this venerated pursuit of elapsed timing, having produced itsfirst chronograph pocketwatch in 1878 powered by its own 20Hcalibre that was also used to time horse racesin the US in the 1880s. Founded in 1832,the SaintImiermanufacture had fromthe start pledged a commitmentto chronometric innovation asit partneredwith various competitive sports,most notably equestrian,to build itsreputation in thisfield.It worked, as between 1885 and 1929, itwon a total of 10 Grand Prix for accuracy atWorld’s Fairsin various cities,themostfor anywatch manufacturer. Itwasthis pioneering spiritthat would go on to defineLongines as a preeminentwatchmaker.It boasts a number ofstellarinventions, not the least ofwhichwasthe creation of the high frequency stopwatchwith 1/100th of a second accuracy in 1916. Three years earlier, in 1913, Longineslaunched the 13.33Z calibre, one ofthe first chronograph movements designed for a wristwatch. Determined to level up thisinvention,Longines added a flyback function to the calibre in 1925, a huge novelty atthattime. Sowhywasitsuch a big deal?This cleverfunction,which continues PHOTOGRAPHY XERXES LEE
Longines released its first flyback chronograph in 1925 and patented it in 1936, which wasa world’ s first to be coveted today, allows one to reset the chronograph to zerowith a single push of a button, andwhile the chronograph isstillrunning. Chronographswithoutthisfunction will have to be stopped before they can be reset.Even back then, pilots especially found the flyback to be extremely useful asit allowed themto precisely time differentflightstages successivelywithout needing to stop the chronograph. In 1936,Longinesmarked another milestonewithCaliber13ZN,the first serial chronographwith a flyback function.An incredibly sophisticated piece atthattime,Caliber13ZN has been described as one ofthemost beautiful chronographmovements ever.Itwas also during thistime that Longinesfinally filed for a patent foritsflybackmechanism,which was aworld’sfirst.As a testament to its credibility,the 13ZN watch had survived an expedition to the Antarctic,strapped on thewrist of RichardByrd,the firstman to fly over the South Pole. In the ensuing years,Longines continued to build on themovement’s complexity, notably the 13ZN-12 which featured a central chronograph minute hand instead of a conventional counter.Butfor certain reasons after1968 (it’s a story for another time),the flyback chronograph all but disappeared fromtheLongines portfolio. BACK IN THE SPOTLIGHT This year, in honour of its pioneering role in the development of flyback Tatler GMT Dial Up 68
From left: Richard Byrd; Longines’ first serial flyback chronograph 13ZN; Longines Flyback Chronograph 30CH from 1967 chronographs,Longines has given the Spirit collection a new interpretationwith,what else but,the flyback chronograph.It alsomarks the officialreturn ofthe flyback to Longines after an absence of 55 years. The Spiritwatch is dedicated to theworld’s greatest explorers of air, land and sea, and having it comewith a flybackmakes perfectsense.The Flyback Spiritis powered by the new L791.4 automaticmovementthat comeswith aContrôle Officiel Suisse desChronomètres(COSC)stamp of approval.Itis equippedwith a silicon balance spring that not only improves performance and accuracy, butis also resistanttomagnetic interference, which has been tested to be 10 times higherthan the ISO standard. Packedwith a powerreserve of 68 hours,the oscillatingweightis engravedwith the globe and the name ofthemodel, all ofwhich are visible on the transparent caseback. Notably, it’sthe firsttime thatthe Spiritmodel has a transparent caseback, giving the watch an incredibly luxe aesthetic. Encased in 42mmsteel,the Flyback Spirit has a bi-directional bezelwith 60-minute scale in either black or blue ceramic tomatch the black or blue sunray dial.The five stars at 6 o’clock represent the superlative precision ofthe timepiece. It boasts awater-depth resistance of up to 100m.Completing itsrobust appearance is a choice ofsteel bracelet, chocolate leather, blue textile or beige Nato strap.The clasp isfittedwith a newmicro-adjustment systemthatmakesit easy to find the most comfortable fit. Abeautiful chronograph collection,the Flyback Spirit reiteratesLongines’recent efforts atrevisiting unique historical pieces and updating themfor a contemporary audience.Allwe can say is, keep themcoming. Tatler GMT Dial Up 69
CONVERSATION Buildingthe Next Chapter DIALUP Tatler GMT Dial Up 70 Since joining Longines as CEO in 2020, Matthias Breschan has been steadily steering the brand into a new era of excellence By Brian Cheong Matthias Breschan joined Longines at the most inopportune time.Itwas July 1, 2020, the start of the pandemic lockdown.“The day Ijoined, most of the points ofsales around theworldwere closed.Itwas a very difficult and very complicated situation,”said Breschan,who came overfrom Radowhere hewasthe CEO for nine years. ButLongines proved to be made of hardy stock,which didn’t surpriseBreschan considering itwas consistently among the top 10 Swiss watch brands,with sales of over CHF1 billion in 2022—one of only seven to achieve thisfeat.Breschan was confidentthatthis buoyant conditionwould continue. Tatler GMT metBreschan in BangkokwhereLongines presented its 2023 novelties earlierthis yearto find outmore about his plansforthe brand. How did the pandemic influence your strategy during those tough years? Ithink themajor changewas thatwe accelerated the rollout of e-commerce.In one year,we had it rolled outin all 33 countrieswhere we had our own subsidiaries.We also tried to enhance the advantages of having a smartly linked online and offline distribution.Thisis howwe see the future: e-commercewill be
From top: Longines has mastered the art of elegant sport watches as evident in this Master Collection watch; Longines’ Ambassador of Elegance Jennifer Lawrence. Opposite page: CEO Matthias Breschan Tatler GMT Dial Up 71 important but brick-and-mortarwill continue to be significant because watches are emotional accessories that you really need to touch and feel. And thenwe also realised that wemust prioritise the domestic market.Ithink in some countrieswe were justwaiting forthe touriststo return—therewastoomuch focus on the tourists. How did you pivot away from this reliance on tourists? We changed thewholemarketing mix. Forinstance, inEurope,they love steelsportwatches butthe touriststo thisregion prefer elegant dresswatches.Ifthe locals couldn’t find sportwatchesin the boutiques, theywould not considerthe brand anymore.Ithinkwe corrected thatin the assortment of productswe have at our points ofsale. We changed the layout ofthe boutiquesfor a younger, fresher feel.We also levelled up our communicationwith the signing of JenniferLawrence as our ambassador. [Lawrence] is one ofthe most elegantladies and she perfectly fitsthe brand.Thenwe haveRegéJean Page [ofBridgerton fame] who is very popularwith the young clientele. One thing thatwas done away withwere products created for just one region. Nowwhat you see is an international collection, althoughwithin each family there are differences.InEurope, our bestselling ladies’watch isthe DolceVita,while inAsia, itisthe PrimaLuna.We have these types of specificities butthe brandmix in our boutiquesisthe same globally. What was your impression of Longines before you joined? Itwas very clearthatwhen Ijoined, it was notthe brand that had to adaptto me,I had to adaptto the brand.It’s a very healthy,strong brand; itis one of the biggestsuccessstories ofthe last 20 years. What do you think is Longines’ strongest asset? Its pioneering spirit.Atthe beginning ofthe last century,there were somany pioneerswhowere discovering the sea,the sky, and the land.They needed very reliable navigation and timing instruments, andLongineswas definitely one of the pioneersin thisfield. How did that translate into this year’s novelties? The keywordsin our DNAare “watchmaking tradition” and “elegance”.And Ithink the collection perfectly representsthese two pillars. The new DolceVita isthe perfect example of howwe’re enhancing our ladies’ collection.Andwhen you look atthe Flyback [Spirit], you see pieces that are linked to ourinnovative heritage. So it’s all about balancing history to come up with exciting contemporary interpretations. W Exactly. ATCH IMAGE XERXES LEE
Little Housein theMountain ATELIER At the Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art, ancient arts and crafts are preserved and perfected By Brian Cheong I n 2014, a charming 17th century farmhouse in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Swiss watchmaking cradle in the Jura mountains,was converted by Cartierinto its métiers d’art workshop. Located right next to the Cartier Manufacture, the 30,000m2birthplace of Tank and Santos, Maison des Métiers d’Art concentratessolely on preserving and promoting ancestral techniques through the lens ofwatchmaking. Many of these ancient craftswould have been at the risk of being lost foreverwithout this atelier astherewas hardly anywritten documentations about them. DIALUP Here, onewill discover a conducive environmentwhere about 200 craftsmen are given the freedom to elevate theirwork, a placewhere heritage is also enrichedwith modern ideas and tools. Here, an array of human and technical heritage is protected and cultivated so that it can be enjoyed for generationsto come. CREATIVE EXPRESSIONS Maison des Métiers d’Art focuses on three families of expertise in the arts of metal, fire, and composition. They all involve a high level ofskill, precision and attention to detail, not unlike the development and realisation of awatch movement. Three ancient techniques can be found under metal, among them is gold bead granulationwhere beads of differentsizes are used to fashion a motif on the dial. These beads have to be delicately soldered onto the dial, a process made particularly challenging because heat is involved and risks deformation. Then there are enamel granulation,where beads are formed from enamel, and filigree, an intricate precious metal thread work invented by the Sumeriansin 3000 B.C. Underfire is a series of enamel techniquesfrom cloissoné and The Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art resides in a 17th century farmhouse Tatler GMT Dial Up 72
champlevé to the highly complex grisaille enamel that produces amazing portraiture. Thistechnique involvesfiring up a dial coated in black enamel before the enameller paints on itwith “Limogeswhite” enamel, creating nuances ofwhite and grey tonesto realise stunning imageslike the tiger. Flamed gold isthe newest addition to Maison des Métiers d’Art.Inspired by the bluing of handsin a flame, itrequiresthe heating of a gold plate at precise temperaturesto forge a palette of colours—a slight errorin temperature orlength of time in the heat meansit’s back to square one. Then there is composition, dominated mainly by marquetry. Originally a decorative woodworking technique that involvesinlaying small pieces of wood to form intricate patterns, the technique has been advanced such that it nowincludesstrawand gold. In fact, Cartier undertook the challenge of floral marquetry, using rose petals and placing them on a wood board to fabricate an exquisite image of a colourful parrot on the dial of a Ballon de Cartier. Underthis category is also stone mosaic, an ancient technique of assembling tiles once employed for floors andwallsthat has nowfound itsway onto the dials of Cartier watches. TIMELESS TREASURES These are veritableworks of art that fitright on thewrist. Thewatch transcendsits utilitarian purpose and becomes a captivating artistic expression showcasing exquisite craftsmanship that enhances both its allure and value. Forthe artists, thewatch serves as a canvasthat challengestheir aesthetic verve. It is awonderfulside of luxury watchmaking, and Cartier brings thisto lightwith a flairlike no other. A striking dial showcasing the art of gold bead granulation A colourful parrot formed through floral marquetry Using stone mosaic to construct an equestrian motif A tiger motif created with grisaille enamel Flamed gold dial Tatler GMT Dial Up 73
The Perpetuity of Time DIALUP Continuing its legacy of sophisticated timepieces, A Lange & Söhne unveils beautiful new renditions ofa grand complication and a dual time wristwatch By Andre Frois Much towatch enthusiasts’ delight, the storied manufacture hasjust unveiled neweditions of two technically and aesthetically riveting timepieces: the 1815Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and the Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum. Both are gladly received additionsto the highly sought-after1815 and Lange 1 collectionsrespectively. RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL Making itstriumphantreturn this yearwith a refreshed look isthe coveted 1815Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar of 2013 (which, incidentally,was awatershed year forthe brand that also sawthe unveiling of its Grand Complication—a horological feat comprising a perpetual calendar, a monopushersplit-seconds chronographwith flying seconds, a grande sonnerie, a petite sonnerie and G erman luxurywatch manufacturer A Lange&Söhne has made numerous contributionsto the advancement of mechanicalwatchmaking, from special escapement designs and remontoiresto unique styles of deadbeatseconds and beryllium alloy balance springs. Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, it isthe most famous brand that the small watchmaking town of Glashütte has ever produced. Some of its most celebrated timepiecesinclude the 1815, Lange 1, Datograph, Double Split, Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”, Saxonia and Zeitwerk, many ofwhich have soared in secondary value in recent yearsthanksto pandemic- and crypto-related events. Since itsinception, A Lange&Söhne’s passion for horological innovation has never dwindled. Earlier this year, the manufacture stopped many attendees of Watches and Wonders 2023 in theirtrackswith its newlaunch, the Odysseus Chronograph, a uniquely constructed timerwith a spellbinding reset motion. From dial colourto case material and movement mechanism, the brand also takesspecial care to make idealselections that pay tribute to traditional Germanwatchmaking.Its tireless diligence and spirit of conservation are largelywhy it has amassed a global cult following. SPOTLIGHT From top: The new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar with a pink gold dial—only the third timepiece in A Lange & Söhne’s line-up to sport one; the hand-decorated and -assembled calibre L101.1 combines a rattrapante chronograph with a perpetual calendar and moon phase Tatler GMT Dial Up 74 IMAGES A LANGE & SÖHNE
Sinceits inception, A Lange & Söhne ’ s passion for horological innovation has never dwindled. From dialcolour to case material and movement mechanism, the brand also takes specialcareto makeideal selections that paytributeto traditional German watchmaking. Its tireless diligenceand spirit ofconservation arelargely whyit hasamassed aglobal cult following a minute repeater—at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie; limited to justsix piecesworldwide andwith a calling price of 1.92 million euros). Sporting awhite gold case thistime, the 2023 edition of the 1815Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar comeswith an eye-catching solid pink gold dial—only the third A Lange&Söhne timepiece to bear one, afterthe Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon of 2019 and the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar of 2021. Otherfeaturesinclude rhodium-plated aswell as blued steel hands, and throwback aestheticssuch asrailway track scales and classic Arabic numerals, meant to evoke the beautiful A Lange&Söhne pocketwatches of yesteryear. Limited to 100 pieces, thiswhite gold reference combines a rattrapante chronographwith a perpetual calendar and moon phase, and has an ab/auf (German for“up/down”) powerreserve indicator—a mechanism patented by the manufacture that detects whether awatch iswound up orwound down, and displaysitsremaining power—synonymouswith the 1815 collection. These absorbing complications are operated by two chronograph buttons, one rattrapante button, and separate recessed correctorsthat adjust the day, date, month and moon phase. It isworth mentioning at this point that its chronograph can record durationswith an accuracy of one sixth of a second because its movement, the calibre L101.1, beatswith six semi-oscillations persecond. This highly accurate perpetual calendarwill not need adjusting until March 1, 2100—a leap yearthat, according to the rules of the Gregorian calendar,will be skipped. Enjoy the glimmer of screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock through the transparent caseback of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Tatler GMT Dial Up 75
Speaking of the calibre, the hand-decorated and hand-assembled L101.1 has had all the uppersurfaces of its moving partsindividually finishedwith straight graining, while its peripheral chamfers have been polished for contrast.Its plates and bridges have been crafted from untreated German silver. One can admire this high-level finishing, alongwith screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock, through thewatch’s transparent caseback. THE WORLD AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Another acclaimed A Lange&Söhne classic that has been reimaginedwith an enticing newvisage isthe Lange 1 Time Zone of 2005, a sophisticatedworld timer that is nowavailable in a sleek 950 platinum casewith a rhodium-coloured dial in solid silver. In 2020, the manufacture equipped thisworld timerwith the newcalibre L141.1,which includes a daylight-saving time indication and delivers a power reserve of 72 hoursfrom just one mainspring barrel. Like the movements of other A Lange&Söhnewatches, the Lange manufacture calibre L141.1 isskilfully decorated and assembled by hand, then precision-adjusted in five positions. Similarto the new1815Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, exquisite hand-finished details of the movement,such asfine satin finishing on the wheels and mirrored anglage on the bridge edges, can be admired through thewatch’stransparentsapphire crystal caseback. High legibility is a cornerstone of all A Lange&Söhne creations and the Lange 1 Time Zone does not compromise on this despite the fact that it has a number of displays on High legibilityisa cornerstone ofall A Lange & Söhne creationsand the Lange1 Time Zone does notcompromise on this despite thefact that it has a number of displays on the dial The Lange 1 Time Zone displays two time zones, and indicates day and night as well as daylight-saving time Tatler GMT Dial Up 76
the dial: two subdialsshowing home time and current time, eachwith a ring-shaped day/night indicator that nowsits at its centre; a stop-secondssubdial; a city ring for adjusting the second time zone; a daylight-saving time indication; a date display; and an ab/auf powerreserve indicator. Both reading and setting the complications are made easy. Telling the time of day using the day/night indicator, forinstance, is a breeze: if the hour hand fallswithin the 180-degree arc in blue, it is night-time (6 pm to 6 am); anywhere outside and it is daytime (6 am to 6 pm). To knowif yourselected city, which isindicated by the arrowapplique at 5 o’clock, implements daylight-saving time,simply look to its aperture,whichwill be coloured red if the answer is affirmative. Asfor adjustments, the corrector button at the 10 o’clock position modifiesthe date,while the one at 8 o’clock advancesthe city ring by one time zone per push; thiswillsimultaneously advance the hour pointer of the smallsubdial. The timesin both time zones can be adjusted synchronouslywhen the crown is pulled to its second position, but if the time zone correctoris pressed and held at the same time, the hour hand on the smaller hours-and-minutes dialwillstop and not adjust, but its minute handwillstill be adjusted. Like the new1815Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, the newLange 1 Time Zone Platinum is 41.9 mm in case diameter and has a commanding presence on thewrist. Calibre L141.1—the designing and engineering of which started in 2014—is a highly complex movement that enables the easy adjustment of the date and the city ring, along with the minutes and hours of its two hours-and-minutes dials The Lange 1 Time Zone’s transparent sapphire crystal caseback invites one to admire the painstakingly finished manufacture calibre L141.1 that has been precision-adjusted in five positions Tatler GMT Dial Up 77
Assembling the RM 07-04. Opposite page: Polishing a Richard Mille watch case DIALUP
ATELIER Located in the Swiss Jura, the Richard Mille manufacture uses a combination of traditional know-how and futuristic vision to create watches that refuse to compromise on quality or technicality By Marie de Pimodan RichardMille Tatler GMT Dial Up P 79 HOTOS: © FABIEN NISSEL (RM 07-04); © JÉROME BRYON L ooking at the somewhat understated and classic façade of the buildingsin Les Breuleux, it’s hard to imagine that thisiswhere some of the industry’s most futuristicwatches come to life. The discreetwalls of the historic Montres Valgine building house the headquarters of a brand thatsets collectors’ pulses racing:Richard Mille.It is at the heart of the Franches-Montagnes in the Swiss Jura that the brand hastaken up residence,within the premises of thewatchmaking company founded in 1900 by Ali Guenat—whose descendant, Dominique Guenat, joined forcesin 1999with hislong-time friendRichard Mille to create the eponymous brand. While the company may be
RM 07-04 Green PHOTO © JÉROME BRYON Tatler GMT Dial Up 80 “Whilethe company may be young, that has not stopped it from acquiring cutting-edge expertisein mechanicsand design ” young, that has notstopped it from acquiring cutting-edge expertise in mechanics and design. This savoir-faire can be measured by the phenomenalsuccess of itswatches it produces and the spectacular figuresit has posted:sales of €500 million in 2022 (compared to €450 million in 2021); 210 employeesin Les Breuleux; 39 boutiques around theworld; an average retail price of CHF 250,000; a total of 5,400 units produced in 2022 and a target of 5,600 this year. PUSHINGBACK THEWALLS The brand’s exponential growth has led it to progressively expand the Montres Valgine building dedicated to the assembly of movements, the inspection of barrels and the fitting of dials, hands and straps. The
Tatler GMT Dial Up P 81 HOTO © JÉROME BRYON firststepwastaken in 2013when Pro ArtIwas built: a 32,000 sq ft contemporary buildingwherewatch cases are produced aswell as certain componentssuch as plates and bridges,screws and somewheels. This expansion continued in 2018 with the construction of the 27,000 sq ft ProArtIIfacility housing the technical offices of the case and movement engineers,R&D teams andArt Direction department. It isin this part of the manufacture that the firststage in creation of each newwatch begins, based on a brief given by Mille’s management team. Thewording is pared down to essentials, if one is to believe the example of theRM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley:“to create awatch integrating theworld of the Smiley, a tourbillon, aswell AIMINGFOR PERFECTION Everything from the case to the movement, components’resistance and their accuracy must meet a set of extremely demanding quality standards. From the beginning to the end of the production line, Richard Mille creations undergo between 50 and 60 different processesto achieve a level of quality verging on absolute perfection. To ensure there is no room for error, between 30 and 40 per cent of the components are rejected; forif there is one overriding principle from whichRichard Mille has never departed since the beginning of its adventure, it isthe desire to createwatchesthat are made to beworn,resistshocks and stand the test of timewith innovative, uncompromising horology. Pro Art II, one of the buildings of the Manufacture Richard Mille as hours and minutes”—no more and no less. The same principle appliesto theRM UP-01 Ferrari, which,well before itslaunch, had to live up to the management’s desire to create “awatch that is as thin as possible yetsufficiently sturdy for everyday use, meeting allRichard Mille’straditional technical characteristics”. From there, a long process began,starting with the development of the calibre. Since the creation of the in-house movement manufacturing department in 2008,Richard Mille haslaunched 15 in-house movementsthat equip 60 per cent of its production—with the remaining 40 per centsourced from celebrated suppliers of high-end mechanical movementssuch as Vaucher or APLL.
By Marie de Pimoda n. Special th a nksto The Works. Photograp hy by Denis Hayou n PHOTOGRAPHY DENIS HAYOUN/STUDIO DIODE DIALUP Tatler GMT Dial Up 82
Cartier Tank Française in yellow gold
Trilobe Une Folle Journée in grade 5 titanium. Opposite page: Breguet Classique 5177 in white gold with Grand Feu blue enamel dial Tatler GMT Dial Up 84
icrophones buzzed and cameras clicked at Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva asthe newestsuperstars were unveiled. Soon-to-be iconic timepieces glittered underthe spotlight: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds captivated, the Perrelet Turbine Carbon Blue hinted at technical chops. But the Breguet Classique 5177 inwhite gold stole the show, its minimalist beauty emitting a glow that almost precluded the need for studio lighting. Here are the piecesthat most excited Tatler GMT at the renowned fair. Tatler GMT Dial Up 85
Tatler GMT Dial Up 86
H Moser & Cie Streamliner tourbillon in red gold with Vantablack dial. Opposite paget: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in rose gold with a black dial Tatler GMT Dial Up 87
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Blue. Opposite page: Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Blue Edition in steel Tatler GMT Dial Up 88
Tatler GMT Dial Up 89
Tatler GMT Dial Up 90 FEATURE The birthplace of the modern wristwatch may be in Europe, but watchmakers in this part of the world have given their counterparts in the West some serious competition in recent times, as they seek to showcase contemporary Asian watchmaking to a global audience By Anandhi Gopinath Look East Policy DIALUP bal audience tler MT Up 90
Tatler GMT Dial Up 91 T he history of timekeeping devices goes back towhen ancient civilisationsfirst observed astronomical bodies asthey travelled across the sky. Pre-dating the clocks andwatcheswe rely on today, humankind developed a range of fascinating mechanismsto record the passing of time overthe years. Sundials originated from ancient Egypt andwere later used by the Babylonians, Greeks and Chinese. MedievalIslamicwater clockswere unrivalled in theirsophistication until the mid-14th century.Incense clocks,which may have been invented in India,were being used in China by the 6th century. And then therewasthe hourglass, a European invention and one of the fewreliable methods of measuring time atsea. Butwhile timekeeping as a concept existed all overtheworld, itwasin the West thatwristwatches were created, even though its precise inventorisstill up for discussion. Some may argue that Europe—Switzerland, Germany and England—remainsthe spiritual home of mechanicalwatchmaking. Nevertheless, contemporary history hasseen a meteoric rise of watchmakersin Asia, bringing to thistime-honoured industry a fresh creativity and spirit.In making watchesfor Asians by Asians—this meanssmaller case sizes, aesthetic codes drawn from regional design languages, innovation unbridled by years of heritage and history— watchmakersfrom the region are establishing an identity to be reckonedwith. Japan, the nation that birthed the most historic and notable of Asianwatchmakers—Seiko, Orient, Casio and Citizen come to mind—is alsowhere timekeeping traditions of the East truly took flight.In the 1890s, Japanesewatchmakers began building pocketwatcheswith lever escapements. According to the Japan Clock& Watch Association, in 1912, therewere already 20 watch factories producing almost four millionwatches a year. World WarII completely decimated thisindustry—much like it did to thewatchmaking industry in Germany—but the nation’s industrialists proclaimed during the 1960s post-war boom that Japan would one day become the Asian cradle ofwatchmaking. Fast forward to 2023,we now knowthisto be true asthe stalwarts of Japanesewatchmaking right down to younger boutique brands like Naoya Hida and Hajime Asaoka have created a globally respected “Made in Japan”label for haute horlogerie. Overin China, the history of watchmakersisslightly different owing to the role it played in the globalscene—theywere seen more often as parts producers. For a watch to be “Swiss Made”, only 60 per cent of its parts had to be made in Switzerland. The restwere often imported from the sophisticated manufacturing machines based in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan where productionwas quick, up to the mark, and affordable. Tianjin Seagull,whichwas established in the 1950s, isthe largest movement manufacturerin theworld,while tourbillons by the Liaoning Peacock Watch Company made it to many major maisons. This page: Grand Seiko Tentagraphě Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Benjamin Chee, Ming Thein, Minhoon Yoo, Naoya Hida, Robin Tellendier and Wilfred Buiron
Tatler GMT Dial Up 92 New to the idea of Asian watchmakers? Here is a quick guide to get you going. CHINA Atelier Wen Founded by two Frenchmen,Robin Tellendier and Wilfred Buiron,who are still in their 20s, Atelier Wen’s purpose isto showcase the true artisanal beauty and construction quality that existed in China’s mechanicalwatch industry butwas inaccessible to buyerswho only ever associated the countrywith inexpensive pieces. Wen,which means“culture”in Mandarin, looksto China’srich artistic heritage forinspiration. Thisis best expressed in the use of porcelain forits dials, the embossed figure of Chinese mythological bird Kunpeng on the caseback, and a distinctly Oriental approach to design. Memorigin William Shum established Memorigin forthe best ofreasons. Swisstourbillonswere simply too expensive so he decided hewould make his own, at a lesser cost, and create a brand out of it too.Relying on hisfather’sinterest and acumen inwatchmaking—senior Shum was a heavy investorin movement manufacturers already—thisfinance and economics majorsought to fuse Eastern and Western designsin his all-tourbillonwatches, establishing a DNA that consisted of Swiss precision and Chinese characteristics. Memorigin’swatches are often created in collaborationwith Hong Kong’sstoried collecting community,with Shum expressing a desire to make the brand more bespoke than mass. Celadon Although born in Singapore, Celadon founder Benjamin Chee only discovered his drive forfinewatchmaking in China. The London-educated, urbane entrepreneurwas enthralled by the Eventually, Chinawent from producing just partsto creating full-blown timepieces,with names such as Atelier Wen and Celadon stealing the spotlight from their Swiss counterparts. In Southeast Asia, the widespread interest inwatchmaking is courtesy ofretailerswho introduced traditional Swiss brandsto the market in the 1950s. A burgeoning community of collectors eventually provided the fodderforwatchmakerslike Ming from Malaysia and Azimuth from Singapore,whose reputation for craftsmanship, creativity and innovation has made headlines even in Switzerland. Increasingly sophisticated younger buyers have done much to fuel the popularity of these cultstatus brands, furtherreaffirming the identity of Asianwatchmakers. Which brings usto the big question: What truly makes Asian watchmakers unique? It is an identity that isstill being forged, we say,with a great foundation of impeccable quality and unbridled creativity paving theway. Time is a tale as old aslife itself but it’s always up for novelways of being told, andwatchmakersin this part of theworld are more than primed forthe task. Atelier Wen Perception collection Casio Full-Metal G-Shock in yellow gold
Tatler GMT Dial Up 93 dedicated to interpretations of Japanese culture in classic case dimensions and profiles. Hajime Asaoka A one-man force, Hajime Asaoka founded his eponymous brand in 2005 and proved his mettle by releasing a tourbillon a fewyears later. The brand operates out of Tokyo and produces an impressive range of pieces,which is notable considering the founder does most of thework himself. It isforthisreason that Hajime Asaokawatchestake time to deliver but thewait and price (in the region of US$40,000) arewellworth it. quiet elegance and delicate grace of Chinese culture, and made it his mission to build a luxury brand of globalrenown. Some of Celadon’s most notable piecesincorporate cloisonné dials made by master enamel artisan Xiong Songtao, the inspiration taken from bothwestern and eastern art. Thewatches are powered by a manuallywound movement created and extensively decorated by master movement maker Lin Yong Hua. Chee also founded his eponymousflagship brand Benjamin Chee HH (BCHH) in 2019 as his ultimate expression of contemporary haute horlogerie. BCHH received a GPHG nomination in 2022 in the mechanical clock category for $FMFTUJBM*OGJOJUZ. JAPAN Naoya Hida If Naoya Hidawatches give off distinct FP Journe (FPJ) vibes, it is because both foundersspentsome time there.Itwas established in Tokyo by Naoya Hida,who served asthe Japanese representative for the venerable indiewatchmakerfor several decades. Hewaslaterjoined by Kusoke Fujita, a WOSTEPcertifiedwatchmaker and a firstclasswatch repairtechnicianwho was alsowith FPJ. Since itsfounding in 2018, its design language hasremained constant: flawless craftsmanship, reworked movementsfrom an exceptional base, and the delightful charm of vintage dresswatches. Credor This Seiko-owned brand name comesfrom theword créte d’or, which in French means“the gold crest”, alluding to its predilection for precious metals. Although Credor also nowutilisessteel, its commitment to showcasing the art of talented master craftsmen who uphold the values of Japanese aestheticsremainsfirmly in place. Created in 1974 by the Japanese forthe Japanese, Credoris Celadon Century “Seven Wonders” Naoya Hida Type 4A 36mm
Tatler GMT Dial Up 94 MALAYSIA Ming This homegrownwatch brandwas founded by six enthusiasts under the leadership of multi-hyphenate Ming Thein. Together, the Ming team drawsfrom over 80 years of collecting experience,ranging from vintage to avant-garde; from quality affordablesto six-figure commissioned independent pieces. While its headquarters and quality control centre are based in Malaysia, Ming relies on the strength of Swiss partners Manufacture Schwarz-Etienne, Agenhor and Jean Rousseau foritswatches’ internal operations and straps. Ming’swatches have made the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève nominee list multiple times,with its17.06 Coppertaking home the HorologicalRevelation prize in 2019. Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Azimuth Spaceship 2.0 PVD Lava Overland
Tatler GMT Dial Up 95 SINGAPORE Advisor Watch Company Advisoris popularforits designs that drawinspiration from horological history and give a unique contemporary twist to classic designs. Founded by Andy Siowin 2016, Advisor’s hallmarks are large cushion-case dresswatcheswith super-high double-domed sapphire crystals and California dialswith a brushed antiquewood grain effect. Despite theirrelative affordability, thewatches boast impressive build quality, premium materials, and most importantly,reliable Swiss and Japanese movements. Azimuth It’s hard to ignore the forefather of Singapore’swatch scene Azimuth, not just forits pioneering status, but also forits unapologetically avantgarde approach to design. Founded by Christopher Long and Alvin Lye, Azimuth’swatches are produced in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, and have overthe years garnered global appeal fortheir daring aesthetics and obvious disdain for conventional time-telling methods. One of Azimuth’s notable collectionsisthe Mecha BMF series,which showcases a mechanical“engine”inspired by military aircraft, and features intricate detailssuch as propellers, gauges, and other aviation elements. Anothericonic collection, the SP-1 Mecanique features a unique jumping hour displaywith a minute hand that issaid to resemble “a space shuttle hurtling acrossthe universe”. SOUTH KOREA Studio Minhoon Yoo The obssessionwith everything South Korea nowextendsto its watches.Industrial art graduate and Busan native Minhoon Yoowas struck by the effortless elegance of Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity watch and realised hislove for haute horlogerie.Itwas also the perfect canvasfor his artistic approach to manufacturing and engineering. At the forefront of the growing South Korean independent watchmaking scene, Yoo’s designs are clean and sleek,with an emphasis on quality materials. His studiowas established two years ago, and after a successful debut model, he hopesto incorporate more Korean elementswhen it comestowatch no. 2. Minhoon Yoo The Carved Piece
PORTFOLIO The Changing Face of Chronographs The mechanical chronograph is no longer the sports complication it once was: no one uses it anymore to measure a lap, a sprint or a race. Its enduring appeal stems from its ability to transform and find new uses among new audiences ByOlivier Müller ore than 200 years sincesitsinvention in 1816, the chronograph still boasts collectors, flagship models and legendary calibres galore. The secret liesin its ability to adapt to changing eras. At the time of its birth, itwas almost exclusively put to professional use: Breitling measured bicycle races, Longines measured distances by telemeter and Tissot measured heartrates. In the mid-20th century, the public’s expectations changed, and so the chronograph did too. While it is actually hard to say which movement drove the other, several iconic brands and models ushered the chronograph into a new dimension. The Breitling Premier (1943) lived up to its name, laying the foundations of a chronograph remaining technical and accurate, yet more dressy, more urban.It wasjoined by other modelssuch as those by Universal (Tri-Compax, 1943), Angelus(Chrono-Datolux, 1948) and Eberhard&Co. (Contodat, 1957). These timepieces and the thousandsthatwere to followgave rise to awhole newcategory dubbed “sporty-chic”. Eighty years on, this somewhat catch-all classification isstarting to be seriously dated—so what are the chronograph’s new facestoday? HOROLOGICAL CHRONOGRAPHS: THE PURISTS ’ CLAN Well-informed collectorsseek the quintessence of the chronograph, as much foritstechnical aspects asfor its original aesthetics, in accordance with its evolution reflectingwellmastered principles. There is no room for extravagance in this territory, but instead reverence for awatchmaking heritagewith a carefully preserved spirit. The chronograph is a sign of belonging to an erudite community that is passionate about fine mechanics. The timepieces of choice include Minerva editions occasionally reissued by Montblanc; the latest Angelus and Patek Philippe chronographs; the modernity of a Chronor by Parmigiani; aswell as the technicality of an Odysseus by A Lange&Söhne. LIFESTYLE CHRONOGRAPHS: THE CHRONOGRAPH SPIRIT PREVAILS Its primary chronometric function has given way to the spirit it embodies. Its owner projects himself into an era, a lifestyle, a way of being. One naturally thinks of gentlemen driversinfatuated with the newTag Heuer Carrera orthe VintageRally by Frédérique Constant, or even the Elm Burl from Ralph Lauren’s Automotive collection. The fiercely retro Sixties model from Glashütte Original is another example of a key era in watch design. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Tatler GMT Dial Up 96
H Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is paramount and the chronograph must comply with it, blending in with the dial and the case, adding a sporty note that nonethelesstakes second place to elegance. Classic specimensinclude the latest H08 Chronograph by Hermès and the Reverso Chronograph by JaegerLeCoultre, whose complication can even be hidden; orthe Octo Finissimo Chronograph by Bulgari, ULTRAMODERN CHRONOGRAPHS: 100%DISRUPTIVE! These are breakthrough chronographs.They own their difference from heritage watchmaking: the past isthe past, let’s move forward!They bring something newto the 21st-century men; they are avant-garde timepieces. Favouritesinclude the highly complex Sequential by MB&F;the Dice double chronograph byCyrus; theTrack1 by Singer Reimagined; the Streamliner by H Moser&Ciewith central display; and a Hyper Horology version byRoger Dubuisinspired by Lamborghini racing cars. ALL-CONQUERING CHRONOGRAPHS: STATUS RULES An expression of conquest, ambition and success, these arethe status chronographs par excellence,worn both forthe complication itself and forthe values of the brand. Watches like the Cosmograph Daytona by Rolex orRoyal Oak by Audemars Piguet boldly assert themselves and are pure conversation pieces. PASSION-DRIVEN CHRONOGRAPHS: INSTRUMENTSOF EXCELLENCE Some chronographs are associated with a discipline towhich the owneris passionately devoted; prime examples are the Breitling Navitimer, the BR03-94 from Bell &Ross and the Zenith Pilot for aviation; theRM 70-01 Prost for cycling; the Omega Moonwatch forthe conquest ofspace; and the football-inspired Hublot Big Bang E Uefa, among others. CITY CHRONOGRAPHS: WATCHFIRST, CHRONOGRAPHSECOND In these models, the chronograph is an additional complication and should remain so. Viewed from this perspective, the design of the watch Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Cyrus Klepcys Dice where the only thingsthat count are the ultra-thin architecture and the Roman-style design, into which the chronograph merges seamlessly. Tatler GMT Dial Up 97
PORTFOLIO Hideand Seek One of the biggest trends in watchmaking this year is the concealed chronograph, transcending its traditional appearance and toying with certainty ByDavid Chokron H ow do you recognise a chronograph? It used to be easy. There were pushers and counters. Its appearance is coded and apparently set in stone, but a flood of new products in 2023 is ushering in a new type of chronograph: one that doesn’t look like a chronograph. While there are always clues betraying such dissimulations if you look closely enough, they are increasingly subtle, and spotting them requires a kind of mental gymnastics that plays on and challenges our cognitive biases. ABRACADABRA With one, two or even three pushersforsplit-seconds versions, chronographs can be identified by these protrusions along their flank, on eitherside of the crown. The newversion of the JaegerLeCoultreReverso Tribute Chronograph takes advantage of itsflippable nature to deceive a casual observer:when viewed from the frontwith itssolid,smooth dial showing, the two pushersseem to serve no purpose, but turning it overreveals a skeletonised chronograph face bearing inverted pushers. Montblanc’s Unveiled Timekeeper, meanwhile, hassimply solved the problem at the root: the chronograph has no pushers, hidden or otherwise; it is activated by the bezel. PUSHERS OR NONE? If youwear an H08 Chronograph by Hermès, the only element that will protrude from yourshirtsleeve isthe crown. Although there is nothing apparently unusual about the latter, it containsthe pusherthat controlsits chronograph—which isidentifiable by itstwo counters. While this co-axial arrangement is not new, Hermès hastaken it to a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph DIALUP Tatler GMT Dial Up 98