seconds, with two overlapping handsshowing all chronograph measurements. Thisisthe case with the Odysseus Chronograph. Alternatively, as with the De Bethune DB Eight, a face appears to have a smallsecondsindicator hand atsix o’clock, but upon closer inspection, the counter actually tracks elapsed minutes. The pushbutton crown is discrete and blends into the watch case,so you have to pressit to realise itstarts and stops the chronograph. That isthe magic of high watchmaking: it is all about the innovative use ofspace and of course,sleight of hand. newlevel of concealment. A Lange&Söhne has also reached a peak in thisrespect. The original Odysseus modelwithout a chronograph featured a casewith two small protrusionssomewhat like crown guardswhose purpose was not clear. Perhapsthe answer wasthat the brand had anticipated the creation of the chronograph version, because the same two very subtle protrusions are still there and noweach contains a pusher. COUNTER ERROR Traditionally, chronograph watches have two sub-dialsto indicate minutes and hours of elapsed time. These counters are often positioned at different locations on the watch face: at three, four, six, eight, nine or12 o’clock. Each arrangement hasits advantages. However,sometimes a chronograph has only one small dial present. Thissingle counter could be interpreted as either minutes orsmallseconds of elapsed time. It may be hard to tell which measurement the counter depicts due to itssimilar 60-unit graduation scale. There are two possibilitiesin this case. First, the single counter could actually indicate small A Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva 100 De Bethune DB Eight Hermès H08 Chronograph Tatler GMT Dial Up 99
By Allissa Pataki A selection of chronographs that raises the bar in form and function Spoilt for Choice PORTFOLIO Tatler GMT Dial Up 100 Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph Powered by a Swiss-made inhouse self-winding movement and embossed with a Clous de Paris hobnail motif, this distinctive eight-sided timepiece seamlessly incorporates round and octagonal shapes, celebrating and honouring the Eternal City’s architectural heritage. Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Welcoming the latest design to its famous collection, Chopard—official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia racing event— adopts a smaller Lucent Steel 40.5mm case, whose Grigio-Blue hue and rose-gold finishes are brimming with adrenaline. You can practically hear the screeching tires. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph Step aside for Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph, which was put through a new and lengthier testing procedure to ensure its precision of +5 to -3 seconds per day and whose name encapsulates its impressive features: “Ten” beats per second, “T” for the three-day power reserve, “A” for automatic and “Graph” for the chronograph. Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Hublot showcases its technical expertise by embracing the two-fold challenge of developing a square format and a multi-layered sapphire case, with this 250-piece limited edition of a selfwinding column-wheel flyback chronograph, water resistant to a depth of 5 ATM, complete with a 72-hour power reserve. Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver Chronograph Featuring the same bold Blue Skyline double-shade look as the sporty 2021 GPHG award-winning Tambour, Louis Vuitton unveils the latest selfwinding model of its visually striking 46mm Tambour collection, water resistant to 100 metres and equipped with a new chronograph function. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Zenith launches a new era for its quintessential sporty-chic, high-frequency chronograph with the 41mm Chronomaster Sport, packed with performance and precision thanks to its ultrareadable and extremely precise 1/10th of a second display etched directly on to its sleek, polished black bezel.
Tatler GMT Dial Up 101 Depancel Legend 60s Recreating the same feel of its 1960s Formula One roots, Depancel introduces its first manual winding vintage chronograph, complete with a panda dial, double-scale tachymeter and pulsometer, micro-perforated leather strap and a Seagull ST1901 mechanical movement under its hood. Baume & Mercier Riviera 10625 Inspired by the carefree and elegant lifestyle of the French Riviera, this 12-sided 43mm timepiece features a black satin-finished dial with a unique wave-shaped decoration, symbolising the convergence of the mountains and the ocean. It also has an automatic movement (Valjoux 7750) with a 48-hour power reserve. Patek Aquanaut 5968R Adorned in rose gold and powered by the CH 28-520 C calibre, the new self-winding Aquanaut flyback chronograph features a 60-minute counter, brown sunburst dial with a black gradient rim and a matching composite strap. Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph A simple round case plus a tankful of racing spirit equals the latest iteration of the iconic chronograph, whose blue dial and sporty orange gradient bezel with vivid orange accents mirror a classic, colourful speedometer. Powered by the in-house self-winding Heuer 02 calibre, it is brimful of horsepower and raring to hit the road. Furlan Marri Castagna Combining simplicity and attractive details, Furlan Marri’s 38mm mecaquartz timepiece features an asthmometer scale, 24-hour indications as well as domed and curved hands that add to its allure. Completing the design is a vegetable-tanned Italian brown leather strap, for a vintage-inspired look. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph / 41mm Audemars Piguet mesmerises with a 50-piece limited edition flyback chronograph, seamlessly blending the opulence of 18-karat pink gold with the allure of black ceramic. Featuring a hypnotic flying tourbillon, this intricate ensemble of 479 components comprises a horological marvel that is sure to turn heads.
Chrono Connoisseurs In the rarefied realm of haute horlogerie, mastery knows no boundaries. We tap the cognoscenti of chronograph creation to unveil the pivotal pieces of this century that stopped time itself By Brice Lechevalier DOSSIER Designersand watchmakers on their favourite pieces FABRICEGONET Senior designer, Edge Design Favourite chronograph: Breguet Tradition chronograph 7077 Why:“I have always dreamed of owning a Breguet Tradition and, for me, the Tradition 7077 chronograph represents whatIlove about modern haute horlogerie. A visible mechanism with a lot of life,symmetry in terms of displays, and a style inspired by tradition, by the expertise of ourforefathers, with contemporary finishes and materials. The case is very classic and understated, yet it highlights the beauty of the mechanical movement.Its 44mm diameter does not correspond to today’sstandards butsits perfectly on mywrist.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 102 DIALUP
FRANÇOIS-PAUL JOURNE Master watchmaker, founder FP Journe Favourite chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5959P Why: “This platinum monopushersplit-seconds chronograph from Patek Philippewas equipped with a newcalibre that wasthe thinnest in the world at the time.It made this model even more elegant. Ilove this kind of old-fashioned, attractive and verywell-designed chronograph.Itwon the Complication Watch Prize at the 2005 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.” CAROLE FORESTIER-KASAPI Movements director, Tag Heuer Favourite chronograph: Richard MilleRM 65-01 Why:“Thiswatch has undergone over10 years of accelerated testing. Its 5Hz movementservesto drive a tenth-of-a-second’s display, and itstitanium composition and TPT carbon case ensure a superlight watch suitable forsportswear.” GIULIOPAPI Technical director, Audemars Piguet Le Locle Favourite Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster’57 Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40.5 mm Why:“In addition to its beautiful design, this Speedmaster has a co-axial escapement unique to Omega, excellent chronometry and a balance spring resistant to magnetic fields.Itsimpeccable overall quality is coupledwith a very good quality-to-price ratio. The carefully calibrated dimensions, diameter and thickness ensure a comfortable fit on thewrist. Last but not least,I find its manualwinding, aswell as its datewindow,rather cool.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 103
JEAN-FRANÇOIS MOJON Watchmaker and administrator, Chronode Favourite chronograph: A Lange &Söhne Triple Split Why:“While thisis an eminently difficult choice,I have opted for the Triple Split chronograph from A Lange&Söhnewhich Ithink brilliantly combinesthe highest technical levelwith itsthree splitseconds mechanisms, a striking design derived from the Datograph model, alongwith an extraordinary level of finishing and attention to detail.” JEAN-MARCWIEDERRECHT Founder of Agenhor Favourite chronograph: Tag Heuer Carrera automatic 39mm Why: “The newversion of the iconic Tag Heuer Carrera chronograph, with its glassbox-type crystal enveloping the tachymeterscale, is aesthetically very pleasing. This chronograph linked to the development of motorsports picks up all the original legibility characteristics and magnifiesthem, making thiswatch a consistent bestsellersince itsfirst high-profile appearance 60 years ago.It caused a sensationwith the use of the first automatic chronograph movement and is nowequippedwith a new in-house calibre distinguished by itsremarkable reliability and performance.It brilliantly highlightsthe revival of thisfine brand.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 104
REXHEP REXHEPI Watchmaker, founder Akrivia Favourite chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5959P Why:“It is a chronograph inspired by a pocketwatch, quite traditional in appearance, yet it is a very slim and dainty timepiece, whose exceptional character becomes apparentwhen you hold it in your hand. Upon turning it over, one is bowled over by the small, compact movement— brimmingwith horological contentsuch asthe split-seconds function and spectacular finishes—that appearsto come out of the case.” ERICGIROUD Independent designer Favourite chronograph: Tag Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary Why:“Thiswatch has all the vintage spirit of the 1960s Heuer chronograph era,with all its modesty and strength. Everything isjudged exactly right,whetherin terms of proportions, information read-off orthe different materials.I also appreciate the overall colours of this very beautifulwatch.” DENIS FLAGEOLLET Master Watchmaker, co-founder of De Bethune Favourite chronograph: MB&F LM Sequential Evo Why:“I considerthat there have been three major developmentsin the history ofwrist chronographs,which have subsequently merely been improved upon: the Valjoux 23 firstserved as a basisfor all the major brands; then came the Cartier monopusher whose movementwas made by Jaeger-LeCoultre; and the third invention took the form of the El Primero calibre that Zenith didwell to relaunch later.I also found Tag Heuer’s approach to high frequency very interesting. Three-counter chronographs don’t amuse me; I’m still fascinated by 1950s models and monopusher variants. I nonethelessreally liked the double chronograph concept designed by Stephen McDonnell for MB&F last year.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 105
FABRIZIOBUONAMASSA Director watch design centre, Bulgari Favourite chronograph: Seiko Spacewalk Spring Drive SPS005 Why:“Ilike everything about this watch: firstly the aesthetics of its case, especially the limited series with the titanium bezel, but also the very pure dial and the graphic design of the hands, aswell as a magnificent movementwith attractive finishes. It also represents a beautifulstory because itwasworn by [Richard Garriot] an American entrepreneur whowas one of the firstspace tourists.” JORGHYSEK Designer Favourite chronograph: De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono Why:“While I have always had a preference for monopusher chronographs, this one isjust a magnificentstylistic success embodying a perfect blend of modernism and classicism.I also think its movement issuperb.” MARCUS EILINGER Designer Favourite chronograph: Omega Speedmaster“Speedy Tuesday” Ultraman Why:“Since its creation,Isee this watch as having represented the ideal combination of elegance and sport. Its case isso attractive and its dial so nicely balanced aswell as graphically accomplished with its modern numerals. It has changed very little since the beginning, even though I had aweakness foritsformer hands. Any modifications have been relevant,whetherto improve the readability orthe robustness of the timepiece,such as pusher or crown guards.It is one of the indisputable benchmark sports watch models.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 106
PHILIPPEDUFOUR Master watchmaker Favourite Chronograph: A Lange &Söhne Datograph Why: “During the rebirth of A Lange&Söhne at Baselworld,Iwas delighted to discoverthe Datograph (Calibre L951.1./Ref 403.031). First of all,Iwasimmediately impressed by the movement displayed in the showcase.Isaid: ‘Wow,what a beauty!’ and then had the immense pleasure of actually holding it.I wasthrilled by the precision of the functions and the lightness of the pushers. When Iwas able to explore the aesthetics and the complexity of the movement under a magnifying glass, the perfect finishing of all the elementsjumped out at me like a 3D effect.Iwasso impressed by this movementwith its high added value stemming from the hand craftsmanship it involvesthat it became the first newwatch I bought for myself. Making a flyback chronographwith an instantaneous minutes counterwasthe right choice.Itslegibility, clarity, purity… in my humble opinion, thiswatch is a pure masterpiece.” Tatler GMT Dial Up 107
Flying High Meet the Breguet Type XX and Type 20 for a new generation By Brice Lechevalier DIALUP SPOTLIGHT Type XX Chronograph 2067 with Nato strap Tatler GMT Dial Up 108
or devotees of fine chronographswho are not necessarily fans of pilotwatches, let’s immediately clarify the background of the Type 20. While it is a military term that hasinspired the name ofseveral watches, the firstwrist chronograph for pilotswasindeed ordered from Breguet by the French Air Force nearly 70 years ago.In thewake of its decisive role among the great explorers and sailors of the 19th century, Breguet continued to enrich itsincomparable heritage in the service of air navigation in the 20th century. Famous aviators and airforces around theworld placed theirtrust in Breguet throughout its evolution. This unique heritage is being revitalisedwith this twin line endowedwith the latest technologies, the result of a fouryear development process. CIVILIAN AND MILITARY HERITAGE While the 2057 Type 20 Chronograph paystribute to its military heritage, the 2067 Type XX Chronograph refersto the civilian versionsin the 1950s and 1960s. Both beat to the reliable rhythm (5Hz frequency and 60h power reserve) of a newself-winding movementwith columnwheel and vertical clutch: Caliber 7281 for Reference 2057 and Caliber 728 for Reference 2067, both equippedwith an escape-wheel, balance spring and pallet hornsin silicon. The balance spring is held in place by a cross-through bridge that protectsit from impact. The flyback function is designed to optimise user-friendliness and precision. The entire mechanism is patented and guarantees a level ofreliability and chronometryworthy of Breguet’s reputation. Thistechnicalsophistication would be nothingwithout the aestheticsrevealed through Type 20 Chronograph 2057 with leather strap the sapphire caseback,where components adornedwith sunburst, snailed, chamfered and circulargrained decorations can be admired. One can also enjoy the ballet performed by the rotor,which is shaped like an aircraftwing. SPORTY CHIC Inspired by early airforce models with black dials, fluted bidirectional bezels and pear-shaped crowns, the newType 20 featurestwo counters and mint green numerals and hands. This distinguishesit from the Type XX (civilian) modelswith three counters, ivory-coloured numerals and hour-markers, graduated bidirectional bezel and a straight three-position crown (neutral, date, time-setting). Both are deliveredwith interchangeable straps(calf leather and black Nato) and are intended for devotees of high-quality sport watcheswho enjoy reaching new heights. Tatler GMT Dial Up 109
Turn Back the Clock Manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage Department is a discreet little office that offers a windowto the past. Here, all eyes and conversations converge on the same subject: the extraordinary heritage of theworld’s oldestwatch manufacturerthat has enjoyed uninterrupted activity since 1755. Itsrich heritage includes bold creationsshowcasing inimitable technique and elegance. The Heritage Department keeps a meticulousrecord of old registers and correspondence aswell asrare timepieces procured at auctions. TWO CENTURIES OF SPECIAL DISPLAYS Watchesthat display more than regulartimekeeping first appeared in the 18th centurywith the jumping hour. At Vacheron Constantin, its first imepiecewith jumping hour dates back to the early 19th century, in 1824.Itwas not until a little over 100 yearslaterthat the maison’s At Vacheron Constantin, contemporary creativity is often rooted in rich heritage, and nowhere is this more beautifully exemplified than in its retrograde displays By Marie de Pimodan DIALUP Yellow gold reference 3620 “Don Pancho” wristwatch (1935) creativitywas expressed through a retrograde display.In 1927, the manufacture used it on a superb clock carefully preserved in the Vacheron Constantin collection. Adorned in yellowgold, onyx,rock crystal and lapislazuli, this one-of-akind object created in collaboration with Verger Frèresfeatures an Art Deco aesthetic, driven by an eight-day movement powering a retrograde hour display on the periphery of itsfan-shaped face. At the time of itsintroduction, theRoaring Twentieswere in fullswing and a daringwind of changewas blowing through the watch industry.In 1930, Vacheron Constantin created a pocketwatch thatwould serve as an inspiration for many other models overthe course of the century since it perfectly illustratesthe range of aesthetic possibilities allowed by special displays. Nicknamed the “armsin the air”watch, this one-off model features an engraved and enamelled gold Chinese magicianwhose arms Yellow gold, onyx, rock crystal and lapis lazuli Art Deco clock (1927) SPOTLIGHT Tatler GMT Dial Up 110
Mercator gold wristwatch (1994) point to—on demand at the touch of a pusher at 10 o’clock—the hours and minutes on two graduated arcs positioned on eitherside of the dial. FROM DON PANCHO TO MERCATOR In 1940, Vacheron Constantin produced a legendary timepiece that hassince been nicknamed “Don Pancho” afterthe person for whom itwas commissioned.It took four yearsto develop and produce. In retrospect, this model is one of only threewristwatches known to have been produced before 1940 that combine a minute repeater with calendarindications and a retrograde hand. Aurel Bacs, the renowned Phillips auctioneerwho put thistimepiece up for bidding in 2019, praised it effusively:“It is a technical feat and a masterpiece of human genius. The combination of a minute repeater and a calendar with retrograde date had never been seen before and itwould be nearly 60 years before something similarwas seen.” The firstsignficant timepiece with special displays of the 1990swas the Mercatorwatch unveiled in 1994 La Caravelle diamond-set platinum pocket watch, bi-retrograde display (1937) “Arms in the air” two-tone yellow and white gold pocket watch, bi-retrograde display (1930) Saltarello yellow gold wristwatch, jumping hour display and retrograde minutes (1997) to mark the 400th anniversary of the death of the famous16th century geographer. The designers of the manufacturewere clearly inspired by the “armsin the air”watch of the 1930sto offer a double retrograde display of the hours and minutes via compass-shaped hands, positioned in a very originalway at 12 o’clock. The dialwastransformed to provide ample space for expressing artistic crafts. To create the two Mercator models, Vacheron Constantin acquired an atlas published in 1587 by Gerhard Mercator, the first person to map theworld, and reproduced it in miniature enamel or engraved on the dial. These magnificent timepieces perfectly illustrate Vacheron Constantin’ssavoir-faire in artisanal craftsmanship that complementsits innovative mechanical techniques. CLASSIC WITH A TWIST In 1997, Vacheron Constantin once again demonstrated its boldness with the Saltarello, a cushionshaped yellowgold limited edition featuring a jumping hour and retrograde minute display on a sunburstsilver-toned guilloché dial.It’s awatch thatreflectsthe manufacture’ssignature “classic with a twist” approach. Since the turn of the century, Vacheron Constantin has made its mark in the field ofretrograde displays on several occasions. Reference 47245 presented in 2000 to celebrate the brand’s 245th anniversary featured a retrograde date display coupledwith a classic day display appearing on a subdial at 6 o’clock. Six yearslater,Reference 86020 became the first double retrograde day-datewristwatch from Vacheron Constantin. The 260th anniversarywatch unveiled in 2015 featured a retrograde date and a split-seconds chronograph with a double retrograde hand.It’s the purest technical demonstration of Vacheron Constantin, balancing creative boldness,watchmaking elegance, precision mechanics, and discreetrefinement. These characteristics can be found throughout the long history of thisstoried maison, all perfectly preserved andwaiting to be discovered at its Heritage Department. Tatler GMT Dial Up 111
Watches and Wonders, nowthe biggest event in watchmaking,wrapped up the first quarter of a promising 2023. With theworldwide public health crisis a thing of the past,watch brands are experiencing record-breaking sales and an optimistic outlook. It’s a rebirth ofsortsforthe industry,which appearsto have learned the lessons of thisturbulent period.It hasn’t escaped notice thatwatchmakers are introducing newproducts with reduced exuberance, both in terms of technical features and DIALUP Behold This Beauty Up close with Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface By Christophe Persoz aesthetics.Reliability, chronometry (timekeeping precision) and ergonomics are once again at the heart of the conversation in development offices, to customers’ great delight. Three of the new models unveiled by Vacheron Constantin this yearfeatured one or more retrograde displays. For instance, the subject of thisstory, Traditionelle TourbillonRetrograde Date Openface that combines a retrograde calendarwith Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic automatic tourbillon. Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface in 41mm pink gold case SPOTLIGHT Tatler GMT 112
Tatler GMT 113
EXTERIOR It’s no surprise thatthe piece offers the sublime aesthetics perfected by VacheronConstantin’s designers.The proportions, finishes and fluidity of this newreference are obvious atfirst glance. Housing a self-winding tourbillon with retrograde datewithin the 41mm pink gold case and arranging the indicationsinto such a harmonious display can’t have been an easy task. The openworked sapphire dialreveals the entiremovementsurfacewith its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC treatment.Hand-crafted finishes such as vertical hand-brushing on the upper part of the retrograde mechanism plate and guilloché work on the lower part lend the dial depth and character. The dark tones create an extraordinary contrast with the pink gold Dauphine hands and baton markers. The retrograde datemechanism appearsin the upper part ofthe dial. The tourbillon carriage, placed at 6 o’clock, featuresthe emblematic MalteseCross and a variety of finishessuch as hand-polishing that givesthe transverse bridge its mirror-like shine. MOVEMENT Taking in themovement ofthiswatch islike stepping into a cathedral. Bearing the prestigiousHallmark ofGeneva,Caliber 2162R31is certainly one ofthemost beautiful interpretations ofwhattraditional 21st-centuryGeneva haute horlogerie should be. Innovation and technology serve tradition, as doesthe peripheral oscillatingweight that doesn’t obscure the movement orthe tourbillon carriage. The traditional frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz) powersthe tourbillon for 72 hours. Tatler GMT 114
The automatic 2162 R31 movement is certified with the Hallmark of Geneva Tatler GMT 115
The ‘Green ’ Watchmaking Challenge T heworld istaking everything that is green, sustainable and ecological very seriously, and committing to change in behavioural patterns on environmental issues. Thewatch industry is no exception,well aware of theworld around it and of the need to respond to the concerns of its customers, employees and partners. Thusfar, upmarketwatches have not had any reason to be ashamed of their ecologicalrecord. Awatch is not a disposable object but rather a sustainable one.It can be preserved, passed on and, crucially,repaired. During the manufacturing process, all metalscraps are recovered and recast, particularly gold. Furthermore, in Switzerland—home to so manywatch brands—effluent managementstandards are among the strictest in theworld. One need only look at the fluid treatment circuits and the investment they require to understand that the Swiss does not mess aroundwith toxic materials. ACTINGANDPROVING There are, however,still certain grey areaswhere the watch industry has begun taking stepsto scale back in a socially responsible and engaged manner. Yet,since there are no specific standardsforthissector, initiatives are disparate and sometimes unequal. They relate to plastics and leathers, and their potentialsubstitutes, aswell asto the origin of materials, especially precious ones. Over and above these efforts, it is a question Recycling, emissions, reparability, sourcing: environmental issues are common concerns running through the entire watch world. Despite the industry’s inherent advantages, it is realising the need to meet the expectations of an entire generation ByDavid Chokron THE GREEN DOSSIER Tatler GMT Inside Access 116
of establishing traceability protocols guaranteeing the veracity of the claims. Sustainability and ecoconsciousness are therefore not private matters, but public ones. Watchmakers must act,state and then prove what they are doing. Breitling is one of the fewspecialists to publish a sustainability report, and a substantial one at that. Ulysse Nardin has been upcycling fishing nets intowatch partsfor years. Chopard takes a pioneering approach to ethical gold. Paneraiworkswith eSteel, which is 95 per centrecycled, and, alongwith Oris, is one of the brandsthat has begun to offer cases made from mainly upcycled materials. IT’S ALL ABOUT SOURCING These issues concern the entire industry. Almost all brandssource theirtitanium,steel and gold alloysfrom foundries, background playerswho are notsubject to the direct pressure of international exposure and buyer expectations. Thisiswhy many brands complain that From left: Chopard recycles its own gold flakes, using a separate circuit for its ethical gold; Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel Tatler GMT Inside Access 117
they cannot find a solution to their needs. Many of them are seeking supply channelsforlarge quantities of 100-per-centrecycled metals, that are also able to pass their quality tests(purity, crystalstructure, integrity) priorto use. GOINGTHEDISTANCE While many brands are exhibiting goodwill and taking initiatives, thewatch industry currently lacksscale. For example,while vegetable leatherstraps are becoming more common, they are notwithout flaws, asthey still contain between 30 and 60 per cent plastic. The carbon footprint of Swisswatch manufacturing facilities—even those that have introduced solar panels, geothermal drilling, drastic insulation standards and the use of hydroelectricity to their processes—remainsindustrial in nature. Limited serieswith recycled metals are still the exception ratherthan the norm because supply does not keep pace. Brandsthat need to scale up require the involvement of their upstream suppliers. No matter how small,sustainable and repairable its products may be, watchmaking is a global citizen that muststructure its ownworld around its needs. Tatler GMT Inside Access 118 From top: Ulysse Nardin Diver Norrøna Arctic Night is made from recycled products; The Plastic Odyssey ship is on a three-year mission around the globe, supported by Ulysse Nardin, to raise awareness of plastic pollution
I n 2020,whenwatch brand ID Genève launchedwith its circular economy-based concept, the projectwas definitely a bold move. Two and a half yearslater, the tenacity of itsfoundersis bearing fruit and the brand nowoccupies a prominent place in the industry, establishing itself as a veritable think tank for more sustainablewatchmaking.In addition to introducing upcycled movements, 100-per-centrecycled steel cases aswell asrecycled and recyclable grape leatherstraps, the brand has collaboratedwith startup Notpla, on a compostable and biodegradable presentation box made entirely from algae, and designed to house ID Genève’s latest creation, the Circular S. The UN Environment Programme estimatesthat only nine per cent of plasticwaste produced to date has been recycled,while 12 per cent has been incinerated, and the remaining 79 per cent is accumulating in landfills orfestering by thewayside.“Ourwish isto inspire the luxury industry to considerseaweed as an alternative to plastic packaging, thusreducing its carbon footprint,”said Nicolas Freudiger, co-founder ofID Genève. The newpackaging is made of NotplaRigid, a material thatshares many propertieswith conventional When Good Ideas Make Things Happen ID Genève and Notpla launch the first watch packaging made of seaweed, a presentation box for the Circular S collection By Marie de Pimodan plastics but is made from seaweed and plants. Thisis a good opportunity to sowthe seeds of awatch industry committed to the fight against climate change. THE GREEN DOSSIER Tatler GMT Inside Access 119 From top: Plans for the biodegradable box made by ID Genève and Notpla; ID Genève Circular S blue dial watch
The quest foreco- responsibility By Marie de Pimodan Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Oris has already made a name for itself by producing watches from recycled materials. This time, the brand has equipped its “Cotton Candy” with a recycled Perlon strap. Chopard Alpine Eagle Sporty-chic meets ethics in this new variation of the Alpine Eagle with an 18-carat rose-gold case. It’s ethical gold, of course, meaning that it is extracted and produced in a responsible manner as well as sourced from refineries certified by the RJC Chain of Custody. Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Benzilla Maurice Lacroix calls on the creativity of Thai artist and ML Crew member Benzilla to offer a colorful version of its Aikon #tide watch made from the recycling of 17 PET plastic bottles. Ulysse Nardin Diver Norrøna Arctic Night The watchmaker and the outdoor clothing brand have teamed up to create a watch comprising multiple recycled elements: nylon derived from recycled fishing nets; Carbonium and recycled steel for the case; and velcro made from recycled fishing nets for the strap. The icing on the cake is that the movement components are sourced in Switzerland, minimising transport costs and fuel usage. Cartier Tank Must The Tank Must cultivates its avant-garde spirit with a photovoltaic dial. It took Cartier’s teams two years to develop the SolarBeat movement powering this model, which also features an apple leather strap. Baume & Mercier Baume Ocean II The “green” adventure continues with this Baume Ocean II, which has a case made from recycled plastic. Produced by the NGO Waste Free Oceans, it is made from oceanbound plastic that is mixed with 20-per-cent fibreglass. THE GREEN DOSSIER These watches are contributing to the greater protection of the environment Tatler GMT Inside Access 120
ID x Kauri Limited Edition ID Genève and Kauri combine their vision of sustainable watchmaking and blend their worlds in a joint limited edition. The Circular 1, the first ID Genève model made of recycled steel, features walnut wood lateral decorations produced by Kauri from its own production scraps. Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph The Aquaracer gets a new glow, not only because of its solar-powered movement but also because the sun literally lights up its SuperLumiNova-coated bezel, dial and hands. Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda Launched in support of World Oceans Day, this 300-piece limited edition with its 100-per-cent recycled PureSteel case is an authentic diver’s watch teamed with a recycled plastic strap. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Having successfully tested solar energy to power a Prospex diver’s watch, Seiko is doing it again—this time with a chronograph model whose functions include a “fuel indicator” inspired by motorbikes and an overcharge prevention device. Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Grigio Roccia This 300m water-resistant model is the first in the Submersible collection to be made from eSteel, as well as the first to feature a fabric strap made from recycled PET plastic. The watch comes with a second strap made from recycled rubber. In all, 52 per cent of the watch’s weight is composed of recycled material. Zenith Icons: ActII A782 As part of its Horiz-On sustainability initiative, Zenith unveils Act II of its Icons programme of certified vintage watches, which includes this A782 model produced in the 1970s. All its components are sourced, restored and certified by the manufacture’s heritage department. Tatler GMT Inside Access 121
What is your company’s approach to sustainability? We have defined our newpurpose,“Engineering beyond time”, to underscore our commitment to sustainable, responsible and long-term thinking. Concretely, this includesworking towardsscience-based targetsto reduce our greenhouse gas emissions, introducing and investing in our own carbon credit projectswith a focus on coastal and marine ecosystems, and accelerating our biodiversity effortswith [Brazilian model] Gisele Bündchen as our newenvironmental and community projects advisor. Our purpose is upheld by the pillars of transparency,responsibility and circularity. Thisis our promise to make oursustainability journey more accessible,with a shift to annualreporting. Franziska A Gsell CMO & sustainability committee chair, executive board member, IWC By Marie de Pimodan How does this commitment manifest itself on the wrist? We introduced and later expanded ourrange of vegan straps,starting with our paper-based TimberTex straps in 2021. This year we unveiled our MiraTex straps; combining the words miracle and textile, MiraTex straps are biobased, plastic-free and 100-per-cent recyclable. They are lessresource-intensive to produce than animal and synthetic leather, thereby giving them a low carbon footprint. We want to offer customers sustainable alternatives without forsaking quality or aesthetics. More recently, we have released ourfully traceable calf leatherstrapsfrom leathersourced in Switzerland. Tatler GMT Inside Access 122
What is your company’s approach to sustainability? Breitling formalised its approach to sustainability in 2020. To define oursustainability vision,we focused on identifying priority sustainability topicsin ourinaugural broad-based and inclusive materiality assessment. Our approach encompassesthe pillars of product, planet, people, prosperity and progress, and, importantly, the intersections between and among these subjects. Aurelia Figueroa Global head of sustainibility, Breitling By Marie de Pimodan How does this commitment manifest itself on the wrist? Our engagement forsustainability now manifestsitself on thewrist in the Super Chronomat 38 Origins, the firstwatch to provide fully traceable gold and diamonds backedwith third-party verification of environmental and social measurestaken all along the supply chain alongwith chain of custody. Thisis made transparent both to the customer via an enriched blockchain certificate and to the public in our Sourcemap. Thisis not a one-off, butratherthe tangible vision of howall Breitlingwatcheswill be made by 2025. THE GREEN DOSSIER Tatler GMT Inside Access 123 Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins
D id you knowthat the name Girard-Perregaux is a combination of the names of a married couple? “I wasthrilled to hearthat GirardPerregauxwas a husband-and-wife team. Constant Girard and his wife Marie Perregaux founded the brand,”reveals Marc Naidu. Marc is a fan of Girard-Perregaux watcheswith a special devotion forthe Laureato model. His predilection isinfluenced by his dad.“My late fatherwas a collector of Girard-Perregauxwatches,” recountsthe entrepreneurwho runs a book-keeping firm and a software development company in Singapore.“He passed several of his piecesto me.” Marc’sfirst Girard-Perregaux (GP), and one of his most prized for its nostalgic value,was a gift from hisfather.“The Laureato 8010was the first mechanical Laureato,with about 700 made in total in 1995 when GPwasstill owned by the Macaluso family.It is very rare.” What began asthe seedssown by hisfather has become a real passion as Marc has amassed 14 Laureato timepiecesin various guises over the years, in addition to several otherrare GP models. They are safely kept in a suede-linedwooden box, each vying for attention beneath the spotless glass pane. He favours piecesthat have great provenance and are rarely seen. For instance, the Laureato Olimpico Chronograph 8017.“Itwasthe first Laureato chronograph and the last Laureato Olimpico. So itrepresents the beginning and the end of two important product lines, a hidden gem with only 999 pieces ever made in three dial variants. “I also have several other GP watches—Refs. 2598, 2498 and 2499—that are in 38mm cushionshaped cases.I encourage you to Marc Naidu favours rare pieces with great provenance PORTRAIT IAN KIRK WATCH IMAGES COURTESY OF MARC NAIDU Tatler GMT Inside Access 124 INSIDEACCESS COLLECTOR’S CORNER An ardent collector of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, Marc Naidu shares his passion for the watch model By JustinNg The GP Factor
look them up and see howunique and beautiful they are. They have all been discontinued and are not easily seen in the ‘wild’,” he says. Other notable piecesin his collection include a rare two-tone pink gold and steelwatch and a 41mm Laureato Heritage 225 Ref. 81000 launched in 2016 to celebrate GP’s 225th anniversary. “The limited edition number on my piece is 000/225,which Iwaslucky enough to get,” he beams. One of the oldest and most prestigiouswatch manufactures that isstill in operation today, GP hasrecorded more than 100 patents and remains one of the few to have mastered all the requisite horologicalskillsin-house. A celebrated creation of the brand isthe Laureato, a sporty, elegantwatch born in 1975 that hassince become an icon in the pantheon ofsportswatches. Its distinctive aestheticwith its octagonal bezelsubscribing to the ideals of a 1970ssportswatch has a timeless appeal (think Audemars Piguet’sRoyal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus,whichwere also born in this decade). Marcwassmitten,so much so that he has become something of an apostle of thewatch.“The Laureato has a strong design DNA andwears especiallywell on smallerwrists,” says Marc,who describesthe Laureato as quiet luxury. He founded a Facebook group in 2022 called Laureato Fan Club that currently boasts close to 600 members. Asthe active admin, he spends about 10 hours aweek on the group, in addition to organising a gathering in Singapore every second Sunday of the month. “I created the Facebook group because therewas no central place where collectors could have serious discussions about the Laureato. Thisis not just a ‘wristshot’sort of group. We discuss distribution strategy,secondary market prices and marketing and GTM (go to market)strategy. We also talk about historically important piecesfor GP that others may not be aware of.” He seeswatch collecting as an opportunity to “empower” othersto speak confidently about GP history and positioning in the high horology space. Nowthat GP hasreturned to being an independent manufacture after current CEO Patrick Pruniaux acquired it from Kering in 2022, Marc isinterested to seewhere the brandwill be heading. For one, he’s partial to more transparency. “Iwould like to see the management mindset embrace this [independence] by engagingwith collectors directly.I also hope they will manage inventory allocations to Asia betterto ensure that GP watches end up on thewrists of collectors and not flippers.” Clockwise from top: A rare Girard-Perregaux Traveller 2 GMT Alarm Ref 4940 with salmon dial; Laureato Heritage 225 Ref. 81000 celebrating GirardPerregaux’s 225th anniversary; Laureato Chronograph in 42mm with panda dial; Laureato Ref. 8010 in 36mm with Clous de Paris dial; Laureato Olimpico Chronograph in blue, silver and grey Tatler GMT Inside Access 125
Tay Liam Wee. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: De Bethune DB28 GS Grand Bleu; FP Journe Chronomètre à Résonance; Franck Muller Master Banker Sixteen years ago, Tay Liam Wee sold hisfamily-owned, multi-brand luxurywatch retail chain Sincere Watch,whichwas originally founded by Tay Boo Jiang in 1954, to Hong Kong-basedwatchmaker and retailer Peace Mark. With haute horlogerie in his veins, Taywent on to co-found another platform in the luxurywatch landscape: enter WatchBox.“Danny Govberg, Justin Reis—who is nowour CEO—and Istarted out as co-founders of WatchBox,”says Tay. While Reis came from a private equity background, Govberg and Tay each had overthree decades of luxury watch experience, and had earned the title of industry veterans. The newplatform aimed at digitising the watch collecting experience. However, the curation of collectible luxury timepieces can also be viewed in person at the brand’s collector’slounges. “Sometimesit’s your grandfather’s watch orit’s a gift from yourfather, sowe realised that eachwatch is special. So, in 2016,we launched an e-commerce platform forwatch loverswhere they could buy,sell or even buy back theirfavourite timepieces,” he says. On the day Tay spokewith Tatler GMT, WatchBox had hosted a 100- piece exhibition in its Hong Kong lounge on Duddell Street honouring two independentwatchmakers, or“living contemporaries”, as Wee refersto them: FP Journe by François-Paul Journe and De Bethune by Denis Flageollet. The watcheswent on tour, appearing in WatchBox’s collector’sloungesin Singapore, Shanghai and Dubai. Tatler GMT Inside Access 126 INSIDEACCESS COLLECTOR’S CORNER A chat with WatchBox co-founder Tay Liam Wee gave Tatler GMT an insight into the life and times of a die-hard watch lover and collector who has brought some of the most discerning independent watchmakers to Asia from Europe By AmritaKatara A Wrist to Watch
Why did you pick François-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet’s watches for your exhibition? Back in the day,we had to sell what the factorieswere producing. Now, it’s a free market. We began engaging our collector base in the 1990sto learnwhat theywere looking forto upgrade their watches. Of course, everyone desired and knewabout the Pateks andRolexes, but thenwe noticed a growing interest in the independents, primarily because their productionswere so limited that thesewatcheswere rarely seen on the market. We discovered that two brands stood out: FP Journe and De Bethune.I knowFrançois-Paul very well because I brought him to Asia in the early 2000s.In addition, even though thewatches appearto be so dissimilar—FP Journe’s designs are more classic,whereas De Bethune’s are more futuristic—we discovered that the two watchmakers have very similar backgrounds. They were master watchmakers who collaborated in a watchmaking studio that created, designed and developed high-complication timepiecesforluxury brands; [for example,] if you see high complicationsin brandslike Cartier, it’s because they subcontract [building complications] to these studioswith talentedwatchmakers on theirroster.It’s been 20 years since Denis and François-Paul decided to put their names on their dials,so itwastime to celebrate them. Aswell asthese brands,I have also brought DanielRoth and Franck Mullerto Asia. Are there any stories behind your favourite watches from your personal collection? I am emotionally connected to my watches.I have been in the trade Tatler GMT Inside Access 128 FP Journe Chronomètre à Résonance watches. Opposite page: De Bethune DB 01 IMAGE ELKIN JARAMILLO
forso long and I meetwith all thesewatchmakers and companies directly, and each of these pieces hasleft an indelible mark on my memory. The firststory is about my dearfriend Franck Muller. Prior to 1982, the brand did not exist. When Franck first arrivedwith his creations,I decided to introduce him to the Asian market. One of his most important creationsisthe Master Banker, which hasthree time zones.Irecall him meeting one of our banker friends, an Iranian American trader whoworked across multiple time zones. Hewalked up to Franck and casually mentioned:“Why don’t you create awatch for us bankers? We have to trade acrossthe US, Europe and Asia;I need awatch for three time zones.” Keep in mind that mechanicalwatcheswith only one movement did not display different time zones at the time. That day, Franck returned home afterwe had dined andwined, and beforewe knewit, he had conceptualised the Master Banker. The secondwas Lange 1,which wasreally thanksto Günter Blümlein, who put the team togetherto launch thewatch. He was German and very nationalistic, and proud to bring back a forgotten brandwith a great history. He wanted it to competewith the Swiss, like the Pateks. And he did it. He built it and I heard about it. So Isaid: “Hey,where can Isee yourwatch?” He said,“Oh no, it’s notready yet.”At Baselworld,Iremember walking up to him and he opened his watchcase to show me the Lange 1. He didn’t let me have thewatch, but I visited hisfactory, nonetheless. And then finally, he thoughtIwas too passionate,so he obliged. He gave me sixwatches and I presented them to our customers at Sincere. The third isthe platinum, limited-edition tourbillon souverain with a black mother-of-pearl dial from FP Journe. Thiswatchwas created specifically for Sincere’s 50th anniversary celebrations. The tourbillon in thiswatch is extremely intricate; carving the piece of black mother-of-pearl forthe dialwas a delicate operation, because itwasso difficult toworkwith. François-Paul told me how many dials he broke while making it. What would you recommend as a good investment watch? Personally,I don’tseewatch collecting asthe meansto mine stocks. And I don’t believe anyone should.It must beginwith their interests; there are otherways to earn money. You must think aboutwhat you’re looking for.I would considerthe brand’s history and heritage—for example, the provenance—and then the quality and condition. Let me give you an example. When it comesto chronograph watches, everyone knows about theRolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster and Breitling Navitimer. Butwhat’sthe difference? These are all great watcheswith original calibres. But it’s not aboutwanting to pay a price—it cannot be a deciding factor. You need to ask yourself, what do you enjoy learning about thesewatches? If you made a good investment and yourwatch is getting hotter [in demand], then that is great, you just hit the jackpot. But in the meantime, are you enjoying that watch every day? That’s howyou value it. Howdo you measure that feeling? You simply cannot. What is the future of the preowned watch market in Asia? I can only quote industry sources, but pre-owned luxurywatcheswill overtake the primary [luxurywatch] marketwithin a decade. And this iswhat industry analysts predict based on growth rates.I can see that happening, because WatchBox has built a sizeable businessin six years andwe’re still growing. Rolex has also announced the launch of an official, certified preowned programme. If the industry’s largest player hasfinally made a statement and istaking a stand, it is an indication of the industry’s future. IMAGE ELKIN JARAMILLO (DE BETHUNE)
Merely owning a closetful of necktieswithout any interest in their provenance doesn’t make you a collector of cravats; it only means you are a hoarder. Similarly, awatch collectoris defined as someonewho owns a curated assembly of timepiecesthat goes beyond any functionalreasoning. It isthe love of and interest in each piece, and commitment to a journey of knowledge and information. There is a growing community you just need to have a passion for watchmaking and an interest in learning more. And you can do this with a collection of any size.” Ganeshwas awee lad of 10when his parents presented him with a Citizen, painstakingly obtained from Singapore for S$30. Other milestoneswould continue to be similarly marked, butwith pieces readily obtainable in his hometown of Tapah, Perak. “At that time, itwas Japanese watchesthatwere available so I had amassed quite a lot of them. All great quality,which istrue of watchesfrom Japan even today,” he says. Ganesh left for Kuala Lumpurto further his education, but itwasn’t until he joined the Melium Group that he could self-fund his passion. “To mark a certain number of years ofservice,wewould get the opportunity to purchase products sold by Melium.Istarted collecting fashionwatchesfrom Aigner and Hugo Boss.I call this Phase One of my collecting journey,” he grins. Phase Two began a decade ago when Ganesh started to better understand mechanicalwatches. “By thisstage, theworld had already acknowledged that if youwanted to knowthe time, you looked at your phone. WhatIfound so amazing about mechanicalwatchesis how they operate in such a smallspace and are finished to such high levels of perfection.Itwas a complete game-changerfor me, and that waswhen I knewthatIwasready of global collectorswith incredibly varied tastes and inclinationswith ample space to any and all collectors to get involved. Lifelong enthusiast V. Ganesh considersthis as he obligingly fishes outsome of his watchesfor a spot ofshow-and-tell with Tatler GMT. “Thisindustry hasso many layers, so many possibilities and entry points—it is quite amazing how anyone can be a part of it,” observes the Dome Café head ofsupply chain.“If youwant to be a collector, V. Ganesh Tatler GMT Inside Access 130 INSIDEACCESS COLLECTOR’S CORNER Lifelong enthusiast V. Ganesh on his watch collecting journey By Anandhi Gopinath. Photography byDaniel Adams Keeping Time
to embark on my next phase of collecting.” Hisfirst mechanicalwatchwas an automatic diverfrom Porsche Designwith a unique tripartite case. The circularstainless-steel container hinges back into a beadblasted titanium bridge structure held on thewrist by means of a sturdy rubberstrap.“Iloved the ingenious way the case pops out, and howwell it fits on mywrist. My size in someways drove the direction of my collection. Ispecifically look out forlarger, bolderwatcheswith outstanding case designsthatsuit my large stature.” Overthe years, Ganesh’s collection would growto include piecesfrom Maurice Lacroix, Frederique Constant and, of course,Rolex. He also invested in obscurewatchmakers like Jorg Hysek, Wyler and Hautlence. “I also have a tourbillon from Cecil Purnell.I personally believe that all good collectionsshould have a minute repeater and a tourbillon, asthese are the most complex of complications and truly signify the intricacies of mechanicalwatches.” One down, one to go,we quip. He laughs:“Ilove Patek Philippe’s minute repeaters but those are out of my reach.” For now, at least. Hisfull collection stands at about 20, and Ganesh good-naturedly describesthe agonising process of choosing the onesto bring for our meeting.“They are all my favourite—like my children, Ilove them all. This Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra, for instance, isimportant because I got itwhen Istarted to understand chronographs,” he says, lovingly lifting it out of its box. He treats all histimepieces with equal affectionate reverence. “[Baume& Mercier] may not be a very popular brand in Malaysia and Ithink that piqued my interest even more.It made me think about why people prefersome brands, andwhat drives othersto collect thewatchesthat they do.It also made me think aboutwhatsort of collectorIwanted to be.” Ganesh’s collection doesn’t necessarily subscribe to a theme.“I do have a biastoward Swiss-made pieces. For me, Switzerland isthe home ofwatchmaking.” Although he has no plansto sell his collection, everything he has acquired hasincreased in value over the years, an important consideration forsome collectorswho enjoy the possibility of making money off a passion project. Thatsaid, Ganesh is unwilling to call this potentially profitable hobby a good investment. You can only make money offsomething if you liquidate it,which he isn’t planning to do.“There are one ortwo thatI acquired forits purported value, and when Ifinally sold it,I made a 100 per cent profit. But thatshouldn’t be why you collectwatches.If it is an investment you’re looking for, there are safer and more reliable placesto put your money.” Ganesh looksforward to many more years of learning and collecting, and hasthis nugget of wisdom forthose looking to get into the game.“A passion and interest in watchmaking iswhatshould fuel any collection. Buy onlywhat you love, neverstop learning, and enjoy the process.” Tatler GMT Inside Access 131 ockwise from top left: Hautlence Invictus 01; Porsche Design Diver; Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Limited Edition; Wyler Code R Chronograph
MARCO CAVERNI OF MANDARIN GRILL Tudor Black Bay 58 The chef de cuisine ofMandarin Grill lovesthe neo-vintage look of theTudorBlackBay 58 and how comfortable itfeels on hiswrist.The factthatit comesin a stainlesssteel case and braceletmakesthewatch easy to clean should it be soiled by stray sauces.Inspired by earlyTudor diverwatches, itisCaverni’sfirst Swiss-mademechanicalwatch. However, Caverni has a more personal affinitywith thewatch: “It’sthe onlywatch I bought in Malaysia,so itrepresentsthis moment in my life,” he smiles. Caverni believestime isthe most preciousresource anyone can have, and as a chef, it is of utmost importance to have an organised schedule to maximise productivity. Tatler GMT Inside Access 132 INSIDEACCESS COLLECTOR’S CORNER Four chefs reveal why their timepiece of choice is tough enough to take the heat of the kitchen ByKatelyn Tan. PhotographyDaniel Adams Time on the Pass
SHAUN NG OF HIDE KL Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A TheNautilus emits a gentle sparkle on ShaunNg’s wrist as he plates up a bone marrowbegedilwith black garlic sambal in the kitchen ofHideKL.Ahistorically importanttimepiece,Ref. 5980/1Aintroduced the automatic chronograph to theNautilusline in 2006. “It issporty yet elegant,so it fitsinto my dailywearwithout limiting my movement,” Ng says.“The architecture of the watch also sharesits design with the 5960 annual calendar movement,which is unusual and something I appreciate.” The chef-owner of Hide KL believesthat everything in the kitchen revolves around time, andwithout propertime management, a restaurant simplywon’t function smoothly. Tatler GMT Inside Access 133
MANDY GOH OF THE RUMA HOTEL AND RESIDENCES Casio G-Shock DW-5600MS Simple and classic, Mandy Goh’s Casio G-Shock has been her steady companion since 2014. The executive chef at TheRuma Hotel andResidences bought thewatch with herfirst paycheck afterstarting a newjob in Singapore in 2014, and she has beenwearing itreligiously eversince.“When Iwasin school, Casio always provided items like calculatorsthat had a good shelf life,”she says.“The same istrue for thiswatch—it has beenwith me for the past nine years, nearly my entire career.” To the Penang-born chef, awatch is a device to tell the time and the date butshe also relies on the digital display of the Casio to help her keep track of cooking timesin the kitchen. Tatler GMT Inside Access 134
DANIEL YAP OF GOODDAM Fossil Nate Chronograph Brown Daniel Yap received the Fossil Nate Chronograph Brown from his cousins upon graduating from college in 2015, and has beenwearing it eversince. The caseback is engravedwith his name forthat personal touch. The chef-owner of Gooddam enjoys wearing thewatch due to itslarge case size of 50mm, aswell asits versatility. “In the kitchen,Iwearthe watchwith a black silicone strap,which can be swapped for a medium brown LiteHide leatherstrap forformal events,” he enthuses. Yap believesthat time plays a key role during service, from the moment it takesto fire up a dish to the gap between the serving of two courses. Tatler GMT Inside Access 135
Racing is a thrilling sport that demands dedication, skill, and a passion for speed. For 27-year-old Rahul Mayer, it is also one of determination, balancing multiple commitments, and rediscovering his professionalracing career after an eight-year hiatus. Hislove of racing can be traced back to his childhood,with hisfather’s hobby of restoring classic cars exposing him to theworld of automobiles. Thissparked hisinterest in racing, leading to fun karting outingswith hisfather. At the age of eight, a team ownerspotted Mayer’s potential and brought him into the realm of professional karting. He rapidly progressed,racing go-karts locally and internationally, and eventually transitioning to GT and Formula cars. However,financial constraints forced himto put his professional racing career on hold.Though he would still participate in smaller races,Mayer pursued hisstudies.He went on to open his own software Tatler GMT Inside Access 136 ǢǤ A day in the life of the race car driver as he balances an intense work schedule with his passion for racing By Sim Wie Boon Rahul Mayer
This page: Rahul Mayer and teammate Mitchell Cheah Opposite page, from top: Rahul Mayer; racing for Hi-Rev Dream Chaser Racing Team company in 2022.Hewasthen contacted byHi-RevDreamChaser, a professionalracing team,to compete underthemforthe Sepang 1000km EnduranceRace,thus bringing him back to professionalracing. More fired up than ever, Mayer’s racing careeris at a crossroads. While hewould love to race GT carsin Europe, he also recognises the importance of focusing on his businesses and personal development. Balancing his passion and running his company,we spend a daywith him to get a sense of this young gun’sroutine and life,which has an uncommon start time. 1PM My software development firm has most clients based in the US time zone; hence, the odd timing. Thisis my current“average”routine due to an influx of clients and meetings.I wake up at 1pm, take a cold shower, have coffee and a 10-minutewalk underthe sun.I also take thistime to catch up on socials and news. 2PM I get towork, catching up on emails and otherwork-related tasksin front of the computer.I get as muchwork out of theway as early as possible to ensure I’m focused during the race weekends. 4PM Thisiswhen I have my first heavy meal, aka “lunch”,which is usually grilled chicken,rice and vegetables ortuna sandwiches and eggs.I’m not too pickywhen it comesto food, so long asit’s not heavily processed. Itend to eat quite clean for health. I also just feel a lot betterwhen I’m not having to digestreally big meals. I also try to drink at least five to seven litres ofwater daily. 5:15PM Back at the computerforwork and the occasional harassing of my cat. 8PM Drive out to the gym and train. Then it’s back home to head out for a 1km-3km outdoorrun depending on howIfeel that evening or how intense the gym workoutwas.I used to compete in powerlifting, but over the course of the lockdown, my bodyweight dropped from 100kg to 70kg.In the lastseven months, I’ve been regaining muscle mass and mixing in a little bit of cardio for general health and endurance for motorsports.Itrain fourto five times aweek if my schedule allows. 10PM Hotshower,stretching,relaxing and some timewith the family. 11PM Back towork in front of the computer, meetingswith clients and team huddles. 2AM Usually, a blend ofrelaxation and work, depending on the current workload and maybe a lightsnack. 5AM I am in bed,watching a showand sleeping by six.It’s an odd routine compared to most, and I balance my personal lifewith the demands ofrace car driving by being good at time management and having a structure. The biggest challenge is trying to keep myself focused on the raceweekend ratherthan thinking ofwork or any otherresponsibilities thatI may have. The mentalshift that isrequired to go from day-today life to raceweekend isfairly aggressive and it’ssomething I’m stillworking on until today. INSIDEACCESS Tatler GMT Inside Access 137
Tatler GMT Inside Access 138 INSIDEACCESS STYLEEXPLAINER Find out how you can stand out from the crowd by wearing your watch in unique and unexpected ways By Zue Wei Leong Never Let Them Know Your Next Move BILLIE EILISH, PRINCESS DIANA, RIHANNA AND A$AP ROCKY GETTY IMAGES
C elebrities around theworld are showing usthat there’s more than oneway towear awatch. They are pushing boundarieswith unconventional, never-before-seen styling choices—elevating thewatch from a luxury accessory to becoming the showstopper of an entire look. Take a page out of their book and start experimentingwith differentways towear yourtimepieces. STACK THEM UP There’s no reason to restrict yourself to onewatch at any given time. Make a style statement and stack yourwatchesto showoff yourfull collection of timepieces.If you’re just trying things out, you can start simplewith two of yourfavourite watchesin the same hue, taking a cue from style icon, Princess Diana, Diana in this picture (below)shot in the 1980s. DOUBLE TROUBLE If you’re really looking to level up, throwin some jewellery to your watch stack and double-wrist yourstacksfor a truly impactful, maximalist effect like singersongwriter Billie Eilish (opposite page). Thisway, your accessorieswill be the focus of your entire ensemble, making for a great conversation starter. UP TO YOUR NECK Whenwomenwere not allowed to donwatchesin polite society, heritagewatch and jewellery brands devised discreetwatch pendantsto wear elegantly around the neck. The trend has been adapted forthe 21st century but there’s no longer any need to hide.In fact, the bigger, the better. Pop superstar and entrepreneur Rihanna (above) infuses Y2K realness bywearing her 47mm baguette-set Jacob&Cowatch as a chokerto Pharrell’s debut Louis Vuitton Menswearshowat Paris Fashion Week in June 2023.. Tatler GMT Inside Access 139
Tatler GMT Inside Access 140 With large windows incorporated into its entrance, the main lobby is bathed in natural light Opposite page, from top: André Cheminade, general manager of Hôtel des Horlogers; the hotel building consists of zigzagging slabs descending towards the valley and embracing its topography
Tatler GMT Inside Access 141 VIP estled in the picturesque Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, Hôtel des Horlogers stands as a testament to the rich history of watchmaking and offers a unique experience forits guests. Owned by renownedwatchmaker Audemars Piguet, thisluxury hotel is more than just a place to stay; it embodies the spirit of the Vallée and creates a harmonious connection between nature, timekeeping craftsmanship, and unparalleled hospitality.In an exclusive interviewwith André Cheminade, general manager of Hôtel des Horlogers,we delve intowhat makesthis hotel truly exceptional andwho it catersto. One of the distinguishing features of Hôtel des Horlogersisits remarkable design and architecture, which seamlessly integratewith the topography of Vallée de Joux. Designed by the acclaimed Bjarke Ingels Group, known foriconic creationssuch asthe CopenHill Energy Plant and the Lego House, the hotel followsthe naturalslopes of the valley, forging an easy connectionwith its environment. Cheminade remarks,“I had a guest who passed in front of the hotel three times and said, ‘We didn’t think the hotelwasthere.’ When you see the hotel, it lookslike a small building following the slope on the otherside.” Additionally, largewindows flood the hotel’sinteriorwith ample natural light, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding forest and river. By embracing nature in its design, Hôtel des Horlogers creates an ambiance that immerses guests in the beauty of theirsurroundings. Inspired by the rich heritage of Vallée de Joux and itswatchmaking history, the atmosphere at Hôtel des Horlogers exudes a sense of tradition. Cheminade shares the historicalsignificance of the hotel:“In 1857,when the hotelwas originally built, thewatchmakers wouldwork allwinter and, at the end of the season, theywould bring thewatchesthey had made to the hotel because here iswhere the post officewas back then. They would share a glass ofwine or a hot chocolate, and discussthe problems they facedwith theirwork and exchange solutions.” Thisspirit ofsharing and camaraderie continuesto thrive, asthe hotel hostsrepresentatives and friendsfrom celebratedwatch brandslike Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hôtel des Horlogers, or more frequently known as the Audemars Piguet hotel, is a watchmaker’s hotel for everyone By Sim Wie Boon Do Not Disturb INSIDEACCESS
Tatler GMT Inside Access 142 Breguet andRolex, all ofwhich had organised events at the hotel. Each of the 50 guestrooms overlooksthe valley, offering a remarkable experience characterised by spaciousness and sunlight. The thoughtful design ensures a peaceful and private stay,with no rooms located above or belowone another, providing a quiet and undisturbed sanctuary. Cheminade highlightsthe hotel’s exceptional insulation,stating, “There is no one sleeping on top of your head and no one sleeping under yourfeet. Thewalls are so thick and insulated. Normally in a hotel, you would put one Wi-Fi antenna for every 10 rooms, but in our case, it’s only one antenna perroom.” In addition to its exceptional accommodation, the hotel offers a range of top-notch facilities. The library ofwatchmakersis a treasure trove for horology enthusiasts, housing a collection of booksthat chronicle the captivating story ofwatchesfrom Switzerland and beyond. Cheminade encourages even non-watch loversto explore theworld of timepiecesthrough the books available,with guests often borrowing them to read in their rooms and returning for more the following day. For culinary enthusiasts, Brasserie Le Gogant, led by chef EmmanuelRenaut of three Michelin-starred, Flocons de Sel in Mégève, France, takes guests on a delectable journey through the region’sflavours. Cheminade proudly shares,“He’s been around the Vallée and has met all the local producers, andwe onlywork with local produce. We have our vegetable garden, and he personally chooses all the ingredientswe use.” The hotel’sspa, Le Spa by Alpeor, is another exceptional feature, offering rejuvenating treatments that harnessthe power of plants
From top: All rooms overlook the valley, immersing guests in the breathtaking beauty of their surroundings; the library full of unique and rare books on watches and watchmaking Opposite page: Emphasising sustainability, the hotel’s restaurant uses fresh produce from its own garden and flowerssourced from the Alps. Through a partnershipwith Alpeor, awell-regarded Swiss skincare brand, Hôtel des Horlogers provides exclusive spa experiences. Cheminade explains,“Whenwe were looking for a brand for our spa thatspecialisesin high-quality service and high-end productsfor treatments,we found out about the Grünenfelderfamilywho sources ingredientsfrom this valley and createsinfusionsfrom them. By chance,we discovered that Alpeor has beenworkingwith thisfamily for years. Ourspa featuresthese special treatments craftedwith flowers and plants unique to the Alps, making it a truly distinctive experience.” While Hôtel des Horlogers caters towatch enthusiasts and lovers of luxury, it also aimsto create an inclusive atmospherewhere all guestsfeelwelcome. Cheminade humorously remarks,“Sowho is this hotel for? Just forthe locals? Ithink it isfor peoplewho come from the other end of theworld and want to feel at home. Theywant to feelwelcome and experience a special ambiancewhere they can discoversomething they’ve never seen before. Hôtel des Horlogers is not just Hotel Audemars Piguet; it isthewatchmaker hotel for all watchmakers andwatch lovers, aswell as music lovers, nature enthusiasts, and sportsfans.”
ONE MORETIME Music Box Howcoolwould it be to hear a rock classic like Pink Floyd’s Another Brick in the Wall playing from this futuristic spaceship? Foritsfourth collaborationwithReuge, MB&F has engaged Swiss design school ECAL graduate Max Maertensto refresh the MusicMachine 1,which was originally designed by fellow alum Xin Wang in 2015. Maertens hassharpened its aerodynamism, especially thewings“which now look asif they are in awind tunnel with invisible airflowaround them,” Maertens notes. He also reimagined the body in anodised aluminium. The music box is operated by a complex system ofsprings and gears, not unlike the mechanismsin a mechanicalwatch. Poweris produced by coiled springs and transferred by geartrains, the unwinding speed carefully controlled by fan regulators similarto those in a minute repeater. This movestwo cylinders containing 1,400 pins and steel combsthat synchronise to play music. Each cylinder has been calibrated to perform three songs. MB&F founder Max Büssertapsinto his love forsci-fi movieswith the Star Wars theme, The Imperial March from The Empire Strikes Back, and the Star Trek theme in the left cylinder. The right cylinder containsthe Pink Flyod track, Deep Purple’s Smoke on the Water, and John Lennon’sImagine. Tatler GMT BOB 144
To subscribe please call +603 2780 8833 or email [email protected] į į ĺŀ Ţ į *For East Malaysia please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery to East Malaysia • The subscription price includes postal charges • Subscription fees are non-refundable • Tatler Malaysia is a registered trademark of Tatler Asia Limited and is used by Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd under licence from the trademark owner • Copyright 2023 by Tatler Asia Limited • Lot 1-01, Level 1, Block B, Plaza Zurich, No. 12 Jalan ƹĘ Ę ĽĸļŁĸ ě ffi ǢǠǢǣ RM15.00 www.malaysiatatler.com PP6732/06/2013(032251) Designer, outlier and visionary Han Chong is primed for a bigger future PORTRAIT MRSelfStart Your 1-Year Subscription Now Subscribe 12 issues of Tatler Malaysia at a special offer of just RM172 West Malaysia/ RM195* East Malaysia and save 30% on the cover price. SUBSCRIBE NOW!