Sweden Paris Marquesas Islands Tuscany Christchurch Athens Indonesia Slovenia LANGKAWI Wonders of theWorld That you must see, experience & be awed by at least once in your life!
VISIT SILVERSEA.COM, CALL 1300 306 872 OR SEE YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL. OUR UNIQUE TRAVEL AND FOOD EXPERIENCE WHERE WE BRING THE DESTINATION TO YOU.
Jordan Uncovered Ancient history and biblical sites vie with beautiful landscapes in this extraordinary desert kingdom where you can wander down ancient Roman streets, dine on traditional cuisine and marvel at some of the starriest skies on earth. The hospitality of the Bedouin will win you over and you’ll be amazed to discover a 60-year-old wine industry. 10 days from $10,600 pp Peru in Depth Peru conceals some of the world’s most astonishing attractions. From the rainforest wonders of the Amazon and the Inca treasures, to the ruins of Machu Picchu and the islands of Lake Titicaca — fi nd yourself in handpicked hotels, alongside welcoming locals and world-class gastronomy, all delivered in classic A&K style. 14 days from $12,980 pp African Waterways This inspiring tailor-made journey takes a rare glimpse at two pristine parts of Africa — the Okavango Delta and the Chobe National Park. The wildlife is staggering and the landscapes diverse and dramatic. Watch giants of the savannah saunter by from the exclusive decks of your Sanctuary Retreat. 8 days from $15,040 pp Mosaics & Medinas Prepare to be dazzled as you explore vibrant and colourful Morocco, full of grand imperial cities, spectacular landscapes, ancient ruins, bustling souks, beautiful handicrafts and mouth-watering cuisine. A fascinating history and rich culture will captivate, and you’ll uncover six UNESCO World Heritage sites in magical Morocco. 8 days from $8,180 pp Nile in Style Experience majestic ruins, temples, tombs and the timeless beauty of the Nile on a luxury cruise. From Luxor to Aswan, glide along emerald waters past breathtaking desert landscapes, and explore archeological marvels with your own personal A&K Egyptologist — including the Valley of the Kings and Pyramids of Giza — tailor-made just for you. 9 days from $8,770 pp Splendours of Rajasthan Step back into a bygone era of emperors and princes in royal Rajasthan. Discover Delhi’s colonial grandeur. Be awestruck by the perfect elegance of the iconic Taj Mahal. Admire the magnifi cence of Jaipur’s Amber Fort. Savour a sunset across the exquisite lake palaces of Udaipur, and live like a maharaja in India’s most regal hotels. 9 days from $5,125 pp DISCOVER A WORLD OF WONDER For over 60 years, Abercrombie & Kent has been creating inspiring luxury adventures on all seven continents exploring the planets most remarkable natural and historical wonders. Their worldwide portfolio includes all the eternal wonders of the world from the game-fi lled savannahs of Kenya to the vibrant souks of Morocco and the archaeological fi nds of Egypt and Peru. A Tailor-Made Journey with A&K is an itinerary designed just for you and your travelling companion. It means seeing the world exactly how you want to see it, on an itinerary fashioned for you by the region’s foremost experts. If you’re looking for a private handcrafted adventure in true A&K luxury — exquisite accommodation, perfectly-paced itineraries, curated cultural experiences, exclusive access and privileges, and unforgettable encounters with local people and wildlife — start exploring now and fi nd yourself somewhere amazing. To learn more about the full range of A&K Tailor-Made Journeys, please call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 589 717, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or talk to your travel advisor. *Terms & Conditions apply. Prices shown are per person based on twin share and are subject to availability.
contents ISSUE 48 SEP/OCT/NOV 2023
ON THE COVER Zebras in the Masai Mara, Kenya EXCHANGE RATES We’ve converted all local currencies to Australian dollars to make reading and travel planning easier for you. The rates were all converted at the time of editing and are subject to change. JUST SO YOU KNOW Care has been taken to ensure the information contained in this issue is accurate and up to date at the time of going to print. Always check for the latest available information and updates when planning your next adventure. 4International Traveller endeavours to offset emissions at the time of booking where possible or via Greenfl eet. greenfl eet.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY TEAGAN CUNNIFFE (JACK’S CAMP); PETRA MINGNEAU (CHRISTCHURCH); CASSANDRA CHARLICK (FLORENCE RESTAURANT, OSTERIA NUVOLI) 58 74 159 THE 100 84 ANCIENT Wonders from the old world 88 ICONIC Th e places we’ve all dreamed of 94 UNDISCOVERED Under-the-radar must-sees 100 CULTURAL An immersion in arts and traditions 108 DESIGN & ARCHITECTURAL Man-made marvels 114 EPICUREAN Unforgettable dining experiences 120 URBAN Captivating cities, big and small 128 NATURAL Breathtaking landscapes 136 WILDLIFE Epic encounters with animals 144 WANDERING By plane, train, boat and car 152 ISLANDS Exotic isles to escape to PASSPORT 158 WHAT’S ON Events to circle on your calendar 159 DAY AT THE MUSEUM Ikea Museum, Sweden 160 WANDERLUST Adam Sachs, director of Silversea’s S.A.L.T. culinary program 162 LAST WORD Eddy Tata, Aranui Cruises 68 42 NOMAD 22 WISH yOU WERE HERE FORESTIS, Italy 24 THE LOWDOWN Th e latest travel news 28 THE DISH A round-up of the best new bars and restaurants around the world 30 PILLOW TALK Th e hottest spots to check in and check out on your next overseas escape 34 TRAVEL TREND US motel makeovers 38 HOTEL TO HOME Design notes from Hôtel Grand Powers, Paris 40 THE DESIGN DISPATCH Small wonders 42 STYLE Timeless wardrobe staples 44 MEMORY LANE Th e Walt Disney Company celebrates 100 years POSTCARDS 48 CRADLE OF COOL Uncovering Athens’ dynamic creative scene 54 GRASS ROUTES A sustainable sojourn to Slovenia in Central Europe 58 48 HOURS IN... Christchurch, New Zealand 68 TRAVERSING TOSCANA A journey through Italy’s historic and most alluring wine region 74 LIFE LESSONS Th e future of regenerative travel at luxe resort Th e Datai Langkawi 38
10 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM THE IT MANIFESTO You, the reader are the most important person in this business; we will never, ever trade your trust for ad dollars. We cover every continent, every issue because the world is your oyster, and zero- to six-star because experiences are more important than star ratings. Stories labelled ‘In partnership with’ mean a valued sponsor has enabled this content to be brought to life. These stories are created to the same high-quality journalistic standards as our usual features. An ‘International Traveller Promotion’ is content created by our valued clients that has been edited by our team. There’s something about the idea of ‘Wonders of the World’ that really captures the imagination, and refining a list down to 100 was never going to be easy. But we took a creative approach to the challenge. In these pages you’ll find the big hitters, of course. It would be remiss to pass over the Great Pyramid of Giza, the only remaining Ancient Wonder of the World. Or Petra, the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China, which all help make up the score of official New Wonders. But we’ve also rounded up everything from design wonders, such as the hive of cutting-edge creativity that has emerged on Mexico’s Oaxaca Coast, to cultural wonders like the artisans of Kyoto who are rewriting age-old traditions in contemporary parlance. And from epicurean wonders like the khao soi coconut curry soup in Chiang Mai to wildlife wonders like the fabled big tusker elephants of Kenya’s Tsavo East National Park. We’ve found wonder in human spirit in cities from Beirut to Accra. And through the Hawaiian term mālama – meaning to care for, preserve and protect – which will be key in assisting the people and places affected by the devastating Maui wildfires. Putting this issue together has also been a great opportunity to spotlight overlooked destinations that contain a wealth of wonders, such as the misunderstood nation of Nauru, which has a lush jungle landscape, traditional culture and Second World War history, and the remarkable Roman ruins of Libya; both can be visited safely with trailblazing tour operators. And the world’s longest train journey, the transformative TransSiberian Express, an icon that will endure longer than war. We’ve peppered the whole issue with wonders: Nikki Wallman visits The Datai Langkawi in Malaysia as the rainforest retreat celebrates its 30th year by entering a regenerative new chapter. Cassandra Charlick charts a course through the eternal Italian wine region of Tuscany. And Edwina Hart unearths the contemporary energy pulsing through the ancient streets of Athens. What world wonders – big or small – are on your horizon? We hope you find some inspiration here! PHOTOGRAPHY GUY BAILEY (PORTRAIT); WILL BURRARD-LUCAS (ELEPHANT); PIA RIVEROLA (ARTIST ATELIER AT SHILA, ATHENS) CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Go in search of rare big tusker elephants in Tsavo East National Park, p137; Check in and check out the dynamic new creative scene in Athens, p48; Petra is an undeniably iconic wonder of the world, p92. editor’s letter Australian Traveller Media would like to acknowledge the people of the Eora Nation, Traditional Custodians of the land upon which we work, and pay respect to Elders past, present and emerging. IMOGEN EVESON EDITOR [email protected] facebook.com/InternationalTraveller @internationaltraveller @internationaltravellerr @inttraveller @internationaltraveller
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CONTENT HEAD OF CONTENT Katie Carlin EDITOR Imogen Eveson WRITER/PRODUCER Elizabeth Whitehead SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER/WRITER Emily Murphy NATIVE CONTENT EDITOR Kassia Byrnes EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Taylah Darnell DIGITAL CONTENT PRODUCER Cathlyn Mae Botor CONTRIBUTORS ART DIRECTOR Anita Jokovich SUB-EDITORS/WRITERS Megan Arkinstall, Carla Grossetti SALES & MARKETING For all advertising enquiries, phone 02 9698 7072 PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER Jelena Jandrek SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Tim Partridge ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR Melanie Bertossi DIGITAL CAMPAIGNS EXECUTIVE Emilio Venturina DIGITAL CAMPAIGNS PRODUCER Irish Villacorta AUSTRALIAN TRAVELLER MEDIA MANAGING DIRECTOR Quentin Long DIRECTOR Nigel Herbert SUBSCRIPTION & MARKETING EXECUTIVE Jess Swan FULL STACK DEVELOPER Raman Kumar FINANCE DIRECTOR Ken Davison FINANCE MANAGER Anh Nguyen CONTACT 02 9698 7072 | australiantraveller.com AUSTRALIAN TRAVELLER EDITOR Imogen Eveson SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dan Kinsela, Chris Williams All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written authority. Every endeavour is made to ensure information contained in this magazine is correct at time of going to print. Unsolicited material may be used by IT, but no responsibility is accepted for lost manuscripts, artwork or images. International Traveller is published quarterly by Australian Traveller Media (ACN 113 975 438), PO Box 159, Broadway, NSW 2007. Printed by IVE Group, 83 Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2128. Price in Australia: $9.95 inc GST (recommended & maximum price only). International Traveller is printed by IVE Group under ISO14001 Environmental Certifi cation. Paper fi bre is from certifi ed forests and audited sources. A picnic on the shore of Baker Beach with uninterrupted views of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Tuba City, Arizona, where you can stand among fossilised dinosaur footprints. Th e Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an, China. Th e ancient buildings of Petra, Jordan. Th e holy sites of Jerusalem’s Old City, which I only saw in books growing up. Revisiting Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, during the Carnival festival. Egypt’s enduring icons: the Pyramids, Sphinx and River Nile. Spotting lions while on safari in the Serengeti. Hanging out with meerkats in Africa’s Kalahari Desert. Soaking up the Aegean sunshine with a cocktail in hand in Santorini, Greece. We asked our team: what wonder of the world is at the top of your bucket list? Th e incredible Ottoman/Byzantine buildings of Istanbul. Immersing in the buzzing, nocturnal energy of New Orleans; getting lost in its folklore and letting its jazz bars bewitch me. Watching the sun set with my wife in the Gower Peninsula of West Wales. Staring at the Milky Way from the Spiti Valley in India. Exploring the cloud forests in Monteverde, Costa Rica, before it’s too late. Hot-air ballooning over the ‘ fairy chimneys’ in Cappadocia, Turkey. Cruising Antarctica to see penguins on South Georgia Island and snorkel among glaciers, whales and seals. Walking the Milford Track on the South Island of New Zealand. Climbing the Eiff el Tower in Paris. Churchill in Manitoba to spot the polar bears. Lençóis Maranhenses National Park in Brazil, just outside the Amazon basin. Snorkelling in the crystal clear waters of Palawan. Climbing Hallasan Mountain on Jeju Island to see Baengnokdam Lake.
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PHOTOGRAPHY DISNEY ENTERPRISES (DISNEYLAND); NYC & COMPANY (NEW YORK CITY); WARNER BROS. PICTURES (BARBIE); MATT CHEOK (CENTRAL ASIA) 16 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM facebook.com/InternationalTraveller @internationaltraveller @internationaltravellerr @inttraveller @internationaltraveller CO N N E C T W I T H I N T E R N AT I O N A L T R AV E L L E R Central Asia’s treasures Follow in our footsteps to discover the little-known attractions of Central Asia, from the undulating hills of Kazakhstan to the towering minarets and old Islamic architecture of Uzbekistan. Your guide to Disneyland Make the most of your time if you’re visiting ‘Th e happiest place on Earth’. Check out our ultimate guide to experiencing the very best of Disneyland, where dreams can and do come true. THE HIGHLIGHTS OF SICILY Th ere’s no need to country-hop through Europe to experience a diverse range of culture, food and adventure; the autonomous region of Sicily has it all. Speaking of Wonders of the World, be sure ONLINE CATCH THE NORTHERN LIGHTS NOW Aurora borealis activity is approaching its maximum and is set to peak in 2025. Here’s how to witness this natural phenomenon dancing across the sky. to experience these unparalleled sites NEW YORK CITY VIEWS See beyond Jay-Z’s Empire State of Mind with these New York City views that avoid the crowds and clichés of icons like the Empire State Building. LET’S GET DIGITAL Get the latest travel news, reviews, off ers and more, direct to your inbox. internationaltraveller.com and cities at internationaltraveller.com
creating diverse dining flavoured by the best culinary cultures of the world, Explora Journeys is redefining the menu for luxury cruising. INSPIRED BY THE WORLD BEYOND As a nod to global travel and exploration, the culinary experiences onboard both the EXPLORA I and EXPLORA II take cues from traditional food cultures to deliciously bring the cuisines to life. Leaning on exceptional talent and seasonal produce, the culinary team showcases ingredients through skilful restraint that enhances true flavours. With as much made in-house as possible, from fresh pasta to bread, every mouthful is incredibly vibrant. This philosophy also extends to the extensive wine lists, which feature a selection of the world’s best drops. EXQUISITE CULINARY CURATIONS With more than 11 culinary experiences onboard both ships, as well as 12 bars and lounges, guests will be captivated by the exceptional breadth of dining options. Relish the delicate flavours of Asian fare at Sakura, where bold compilations of spice from Vietnam, Japan and Malaysia are enjoyed alongside sake. At Anthology, guest chefs of great renown lend their mastery for destination dining afloat. Meanwhile, at Marble & Co Grill, diners can settle in for a refined menu of European steakhouse classics carved from sustainably sourced beef, enjoyed with the finest wines. An enduring, sea-loving legacy forms the backstory of new luxury lifestyle brand Explora Journeys, allowing guests to experience cruises crafted to showcase the ocean’s vast beauty. The Geneva-based, Swiss-Italian Aponte family has impressive maritime roots stretching back 300 years, and today that heritage blends with a crystalised vision to redefine premium ocean travel. From a focus on journeys (rather than just itineraries) to elegantly designed suites, intuitive hospitality and onboard wellness and relaxation experiences, Explora Journeys unveils a luxe escape into what the company calls an ‘ocean state of mind’. But perhaps most incredible of all is the dedication to curating a wildly innovative onboard gastronomic offering. Discover more at explorajourneys.com FOOD BY WORLD - CLASS CHEFS Dining at Anthology is a one-of-a-kind experience unique to Explora Journeys, where a rotating roster of incredible talent inspires beautifully finessed fare. The maiden voyage of EXPLORA I will see a partnership with Michelin-starred Italian chef Mauro Uliassi, whose imaginative expressions of his home country’s traditions have earned him worldwide acclaim. This first collaboration will set the tone for an incomparable gastronomic journey that can only be experienced onboard this luxury cruise line. THE NEXT JOURNEY Travelling to the most captivating corners of the globe, from the Mediterranean to the Caribbean, Arabian Peninsula and beyond, Explora Journeys opens up the world with grand, all-inclusive journeys that offer a range of onshore experiences for a deeper understanding of every destination. C r u i s i n g i n t o w o r l d - c l a s s flavours CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Experience elevated dining options at sea; Try the delicate dishes at Sakura; The chefs create a wealth of delicious treats onboard; Enjoy classic steakhouse meals with a luxe twist at Marble Co & Grill; Enjoy an impressive range of global cuisines. WORDS LARA PICONE PHOTOGRAPHY CRISTOPHE SAPY (SAKURA) In partnership with Explora Journeys
Welcome to a new era of luxury ocean travel. EXPLORA I, recently launched on 1 August 2023, leads the way for the Explora Journeys fleet, taking guests on a journey that effortlessly blends celebrated destinations and hidden gems to redefine the notion of adventure. Inspired by the transformative power of the sea, Explora Journeys is uniquely positioned to be able to deliver the Ocean State Of Mind by transcending the limits of ordinary travel. The ocean and its influence permeate every aspect of the guest experience, from the destinations visited to the luxurious onboard amenities. DISCOVER THE OCEAN STATE OF MIND FOR MORE DETAILS, PLEASE VISIT EXPLORAJOURNEYS.COM
FEATURED JOURNEYS All journeys include access to sophisticated, varied experiences across 18 food and beverage venues, including six restaurants, five lounges and in-suite dining, unlimited beverages, fine wines, premium spirits, a welcome bottle of champagne, access to the spa thermal area, complimentary Wi Fi, on board gratuities and more.* Ocean Suites fares from AUD 5,600 pp Solo Ocean Suites fares from AUD 6,400 pp A Journey Tracing North America’s Pacific Shores 6 NIGHTS | EXPLORA I Hawaiian Journey “No Ka Oi” of Hawaii 9 NIGHTS | EXPLORA I EMBARKATION VANCOUVER, CANADA 6 MAY 2024 DISEMBARKATION LOS ANGELES, UNITED STATES 12 MAY 2024 Ocean Suites fares from AUD 7,950 pp Solo Ocean Suites fares from AUD 11,900 pp EMBARKATION HONOLULU (OAHU), UNITED STATES 27 APRIL 2024 DISEMBARKATION VANCOUVER, CANADA 6 MAY 2024 Fares are cruise only, per person; taxes & port fees included; subject to availability and subject to change; Terms & Conditions apply. *Experience fee applicable to two venues. Spotlight Journey Sybaritic Cities & Pacific Northwest Coves 12 APRIL - 18 APRIL 2024 6 NIGHTS | EXPLORA I Ocean Suites fares from AUD 4,750 pp • Solo Ocean Suites fares from AUD 7,100 pp LOS ANGELES • SAN FRANCISCO (OVERNIGHT) • ASTORIA • VICTORIA • VANCOUVER VANCOUVER, CANADA
the Austrian Way
THE LOWDOWN . . . . THE DISH . . . . PILLOW TALK . . . . TRAVEL TREND . . . . HOTEL TO HOME . . . . THE DESIGN DISPATCH F U L L P O W E R The luxury boutiques of Paris’s 8th arrondissement are fitting company for the Hôtel Grand Powers, a five-star residence in the heart of the French capital’s ‘Golden Triangle’. Dapperly dressed in jewel-toned velvets and golden accents, the hotel pays homage to its Haussmann heritage with a modern, pared-back approach that typifies Parisian chic. Turn to page 38 for more. PHOTOGRAPHY ROMAIN RICARD
Expect to spend a lot of time looking both inward and outward at FORESTIS, the boutique wellness hotel that exists in perfect harmony with its surrounds in South Tyrol in the Italian Alps. The sustainable spa retreat, which looks out over the saw-toothed peaks of the Dolomites and runs entirely on renewable energy, is an adults-only sanctuary that invites guests to flick a switch and reset. Master Wyda yoga poses near a mountain stream. Meditate while overlooking the majestic alpine landscape. Or regenerate your soul with cocktails at the rooftop bar FORESTIS claims to be the highest in the world. Soak in the views from your Tower Suite or plump for the Penthouse where you’ll have access to your own private spruce-wood sauna, open fire and plunge pool to boot. forestis.it IT WISH YOU WERE HERE WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI PHOTOGRAPHY © FORESTIS 22 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM NOMAD | Places
'MY TIME' GUARANTEED EARLYBIRD EUROPE SALE BOOK NOW on all 2024 Summer Europe & UK tour departures* SAVE $300 PP Croatia & the Adriatic Italy, the Deep South & Sicily DISCOVER A BETTER WAY TO EXPLORE EUROPE LONGER STAYS GENUINELY INCLUSIVE UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION DOWNLOAD NOW Digital Brochure Scan the QR code & download our interactive digital brochures to find out more about Albatross Tours Europe & UK Summer and European Christmas, New Year & Northern Lights tours! *Earlybird Europe Sale Offer travel restrictions & conditions apply. Prices & taxes are correct as of 22Aug23 & are subject to change without notice. Prices quotes are on sale until 6DEC23, unless otherwise stated or sold out prior. Prices are advertised in AUD, per person, twin share & are based on 2024 Europe & UK Summer tour departures. Further conditions apply. Please ask your consultant for more information. Booking terms & conditions may be found at albatrosstours.com.au/bookingconditions or email [email protected]. AIRFARES NOT INCLUDED. TOUR ONLY. Albatross Tours (ABN 145 010 565 143). CATO Accreditation No. TO1107. An Alpine Adventure VIEW TOUR 16 Breathtaking Days From Zurich to Milan 13 Captivating Days From Trogir to Dubrovnik VIEW TOUR 17 Superb Days From Rome to Palermo VIEW TOUR
From a new soul-soothing wild swimming experience to a river and rail tour that follows the curves of the ganges river, here’s all the inspo you need to lock in your travel plans for this year and beyond. WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI PHOTOGRAPHY MIRELLA RICCIARD (VANISHING AFRICA); MEMPHIS CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU (NEON SIGNS) T H E L O W D O W N ON TREND... Greener pastures It’s official. Sustainability is influencing our travel decisions, according to a new report by The Travel Corporation (TTC), which found 35 per cent of Aussies wanted to leave a lighter footprint when they travel. The research into the sustainable travel sentiment was released by TTC in conjunction with its second annual Global Impact Report, which aims to inform the targets of TTC brands such as Contiki, AAT Kings, Insight Vacations and Adventure World. TTC CEO David Hosking said the company’s investment in a carbon fund was “a critical step in its sustainability journey and goal of being net zero by 2050”. The report also shared that 62 per cent of TTC trip itineraries now include a Make Travel Matter experience to benefit a destination or community. ttc.com A SWIM ON THE WILD SIDE Anantara The Marker Dublin Hotel invites guests to embrace its new ‘wild swimming’ experience in the Irish Sea. Hotel guests who sign up for the two-hour swimming safari will be led by marathon swimmer and coach Jessica Lamb. The Wild Swimming package is aimed at everyone, from newbies to wild swimming veterans. anantara.com MEMPHIS ROCKS From its blues, soul and rock ’n’ roll to its warm hospitality, great food and place in the USA’s civil rights history, there’s something about Memphis. That’s according to Australian travellers, who make up the city’s second largest market segment outside North America. And a booming hotel scene is catering to this demand, with a suite of new spots to lay your head including Arrive Memphis, complete with its own bakery, and Central Station Hotel, a 1914 rail hub reimagined with the Tennessee city’s music culture in mind. memphistravel.com 24 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM NOMAD | Travel news GET SET FOR VIETJET Vietjet recently became the first carrier to fly directly between Vietnam and Queensland. It completes the airline’s existing East Coast schedule, which also services Sydney and Melbourne. vietjetair.com KINDA FINDER Style, sustainability and satisfaction are the three pillars that inform the GoKinda ethos. Every hotel featured on the new booking platform is chosen for its commitment to improving its social and environmental impact. Rest easy in the knowledge that GoKinda has done its homework to ensure each handpicked hotel offers a conscious and stylish stay. gokinda.com.au GO SOLO IN STYLE Responding to the growing number of solo female travellers, YTL Hotels has fashioned a selection of luxury escapes geared at going it alone in style: from a relaxing and rejuvenating adventure at Bali’s Spa Village Resort Tembok to a gastronomic journey at the Ritz Carlton, Koh Samui in Thailand. ytlhotels.com Roar emotion Acclaimed luxury publishing house Assouline has launched its first-ever safari book, African Adventures: The Greatest Safari on Earth (RRP $220). The coffee-table book offers a front-row seat to spectacular African landscapes, wildlife and people. assouline.com
CRUISE NEWS Expand your horizons Viking Saturn is the cruise line’s ninth ocean-going ship to join the fleet. The luxury vessel, which sailed on her maiden voyage of the Mediterranean in May, will spend its inaugural season cruising across Europe and the North Atlantic. vikingcruises.com.au A new take on luxury The stunning Silver Nova is Silversea’s 12th ship, and according to Royal Caribbean Group President and CEO Jason Liberty, “is the most environmentally conscious ultraluxury cruise ship” ever built. Silver Nova (pictured above) will embark on a 71-day Grand Voyage South America 2024 sailing on 4 January. silversea.com The sun is shining… The 4300-passenger Sun Princess is scheduled to sail on her maiden voyage around the Mediterranean on 8 February, 2024. After a season of sailings in Europe, Princess Cruises’ largest ship will offer 14-day voyages from Fort Lauderdale to the Caribbean. princess.com Virgin making waves The exclusively adults-only cruise line founded by Sir Richard Branson is set to arrive in Australia come December. After launching its newest ship, Resilient Lady, in May, Virgin Voyages announced its imminent arrival in the southern hemisphere, where it will sail Aussie and New Zealand shores. virginvoyages.com A fresh perspective The chefs onboard Oceania Vista will show off their grill skills at new restaurant, Ember. Expect dishes such as braised short ribs on polenta and grilled swordfish with asparagus at the Scandi-chic eatery, a more casual offering than the Polo Grill, one of 11 specialty Vista restaurants. oceaniacruises.com ON TOUR Treasure trove Anantara Hotels & Resorts has launched its Treasure Collection, the ultimate adventure package for travellers across three of its resorts in Southeast Asia. Experiences include a half-day foodie tour at Anantara Chiang Mai Resort, a full-day adventure exploring vine-covered temples from Anantara Angkor Resort and meeting rescued elephants in the mountain surrounds of Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort. anantara.com River and rail Could Uniworld’s new river and rail tour through India be the ultimate immersive adventure? Start your journey onboard the Ganges Voyager II, which follows the course of the sacred river from the colourful Hindu temples of Kalna to the flower markets of Kolkata. The 16-day tour, The Sacred Ganges & The Maharajas’ Express, then boards the elegant Maharajas’ Express bound for the Taj Mahal, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai. uniworld.com CLOCKWISE FROM top LEFT: Cruise the Ganges with Uniworld; And see life on the river at Varanasi; Dine at Ember onboard Oceania Vista; Relax at Anantara Chiang Mai Resort. OPPOSITE (from top left): Mirella Ricciardi’s Vanishing Africa; African Adventures covers the continent; Go for a wild dip; Neon nights in Memphis; Go green at the Pinnacles of Gunung Mulu in Borneo. For wheel Ride & Seek is offering a new extended Samurai Tour that slices through ancient villages dotted around Shikoku Island, Noto and Mt Fuji. A highlight is the 15-day Mt Fuji stage of the tour, which travels through the Japanese Alps to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Cyclists will be given time to rest and recuperate in a mix of Westernstyle hotels and traditional Japanese ryokans, many of which have natural hot spring baths. rideandseek.com
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A CANNES-DO ATTITUDE Th e Carlton Cannes, A Regent Hotel, has had a red carpet-worthy renovation that extends to its restaurant, Rüya. Rüya means ‘dream’ in Turkish and the menu for the vibrant restaurant and bar draws inspiration from the rich history of Anatolian food. Try signature mezze plates such as çiğ köfte (Turkish beef tartare) and lahmacun (spicy lamb, mint, tomato and parsley) at a table by the French windows for views of the Promenade de la Croisette. carltoncannes.com from a red-carpet worthy restaurant in Cannes to a fine diner with wow factor in Portugal, here are a few of the hottest places to eat around the globe. WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI PHOTOGRAPHY DYLAN CROSS/DRAGONFLYIMAGEPARTNERS.COM (BOOM BOOM SHRIMP) Travel Through the Glass With Cassandra Charlick Torrontés from Salta, Argentina One could argue that a bottle of wine in itself is a wonder of the world. Th e humble grapevine is metamorphosed into liquid gold; some of the greatest examples are so sublime it’s tear-jerking and can command thousands of dollars. However, truly wondrous wineproducing regions exist where vines thrive in surprisingly inhospitable surroundings and produce wines of distinct personality and character in spite of, or perhaps because of, their topographical challenges. With vineyards starting at 1700 metres above sea level, the high-altitude region of Salta in Argentina produces wines with fresh acidity thanks to cool temperatures and a high diurnal range. Water is a precious resource at these heights and the summer sunshine’s heat can prove challenging. Bodega Colomé is the country’s oldest winery and its vineyards reach 3000 metres. Torrontés is the fl agship white variety, abundant with aromatic fl oral, ripe melon and peach notes. Pour yourself a glass as an alternative to sauvignon blanc or gewürztraminer, and reach Salta’s mountainous heights without the aching muscles that ensue after a day of mountain climbing. Decoding wine Diurnal temperature range: a high range occurs when a large drop at the coolest point of the evening follows the peak of the day. Th e grapes maintain acidity and freshness in the fi nished wine. THE DISH Stake your claim at London’s Mayfair Th ere’s a sense of place on off er at the intimate Grill 88, which opened its doors within the renovated fi ve-star luxury hotel Th e Biltmore Mayfair in London earlier this year. It’s all understated elegance at the sophisticated steakhouse, with its Art Decoinspired interiors and open-plan kitchen where you get all the thrill of the grill, watching the chefs cook prime beef cuts and seafood over charcoal. Take your seat at a table overlooking historic Grosvenor Square to enjoy a few classic cocktails with a signature twist, such as the Mezcal Mews. hilton.com WOW FACTOR IN PORTUGAL Mira Mira by Ricardo Costa is a relaxed fi ne dining restaurant brought to you by the Michelinstarred chef who has been at the helm of Th e Yeatman Hotel since 2010. Mira Mira loosely translates to ‘set your sights on’, and Costa has put Porto’s new cultural district, named the World of Wine, in the crosshairs for the new venture. Start with cannelloni with santola (spider crab) on the terrace and fi nish with bacalhau (codfi sh) in the intimate dining room above the new Porto Fabric & Fashion Museum. restaurantes.wow.pt/miramira Shell out in Florida Th e design concept for the 100-room boutique Beal House Fort Walton Beachfront nods to a backstory pertaining to the late Dr J. H. Beal, a prominent early 20th-century pharmacist and shell collector who had a summer home in Florida. Th ose looking for a coastal cure-all will fi nd it at the Tapestry Collection by Hilton hotel’s light-fi lled bar and restaurant, Th e Remedy, which has a menu built around the concept of ‘Coastal Fresh with a dash of Cajun’. A lunch of Boom Boom Shrimp at the Okaloosa Island eatery is what the doctor would have ordered. remedybealhouse.com NOMAD | Food & drink 28 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
While Japan is home to many delicious morsels served on skewers, none are held in as much reverence as the yakitori. Discover more at tokyotokyo.jp Yr akitori has been around since the 6th century, beginning life as a simple street food. And although it’s seemingly simple, this ever-popular treat requires years of mastery and the freshest ingredients to make well. Brushed with a sweet and sticky soy sauce called tare and grilled over binchotan charcoal, yakitori meat (traditionally chicken or other fowl) is imbued with a smoky hue and caramelised to perfection. While you can pick up tasty premade examples at convenience stores, nothing compares to a smoky, hot-off -the-coals skewer; fi nd it at izakayas (pubs) or yakitori restaurants. Chasing this culinary icon is the perfect way to experience the best spots around Tokyo. YAKITORI TORIYOSHI Chef Yoshito Inomata trained at prestigious establishments in Japan before heading to Paris to work in a yakitori restaurant. On his return to Tokyo in the early ’90s he opened his fi rst Yakitori Toriyoshi in Naka-Meguro; he’s since opened seven other branches. At this adored stylish chain you’ll fi nd high-quality skewers specialising in meat from Date chickens, as well as rare cuts cooked over binchotan coals. yakitori-toriyoshi.com While not exclusively a yakitori restaurant, Ukai Toriyama is the perfect place to relish the specialty of bird skewers on a day trip to stunning Mt Takao. Just one hour from central Tokyo, this naturally enchanting and popular recreation area is criss-crossed with hiking trails and off ers sweeping vistas of the city and Mt Fuji. Th e elegant restaurant – housed in traditional Sukiya-zukuri-style buildings – beckons hikers with its tranquil setting amid immaculate, sprawling gardens. No visit to enjoy Mt Takao’s fresh mountain air can be considered complete without stopping at Ukai Toriyama to enjoy the beautifully crafted dishes; seated on tatami mats, you’ll be treated to everything from authentic chicken skewers to wagyu beef and fi sh. Locals know to make their way here on weekdays, when the restaurant is less crowded (with the exception of Tuesdays, when it’s closed). ukai.co.jp Ya k i t o r i Tsukiya A four-minute walk from Ginza station will have you seated at this refi ned restaurant, where you can indulge in a short, standard or special course menu featuring many classic dishes, including traditional yakitori made with Date hens. Th is restaurant’s philosophy is all about sourcing the best of the region’s produce to ensure clean, fresh fl avours. yakitori-tsukiya.com WORDS LARA PICONE PHOTOGRAPHY YAKITORI TORIYOSHI; YAKITORI TSUKIYA; UKAITORIYAMA Ukai Tor iyama T A S T E S O F TOKYO In partnership with Tokyo Metropolitan Government
From a destination resort in the maldives to an earthy villa in south africa and a townhouse hotel in Amsterdam, here’s where to check in to check out on your next overseas Escape. AMARI RAAYA MALDIVES Expect sparkling ocean views from your villa at Amari Raaya Maldives, located on an island haven in Raa Atoll. The destination resort highlights its unique setting through experiences such as nature walks through the mangroves, dining in a sky-high watch tower or indulging in a wellness experience at the Maai Spa. All 187 beach and ocean villas at the brand-new resort offer direct access to the water. amari.com NOMAD | Accommodation WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI PHOTOGRAPHY MUHAPHOTOS.COM (AMARI RAAYA MALDIVES); THE SEA RANCH LODGE (THE SEA RANCH LODGE); PETE CANNING (THE COLLECTIVE AT WOOLSERY) Shinta Mani Mustang ‘Mustang’ is derived from the Tibetan word that means ‘Plain of Aspiration’, which is a reference to the location of the all-inclusive Shinta Mani Mustang – a Bensley Collection property in Nepal. The resort is tucked away in a pocket of the Kali Gandaki Gorge at an elevation of 2800 metres. The bespoke base camp beckons adventurers who enjoy life’s little luxuries; each of the 29 suites nod to traditional open-plan Tibetan homes and command views of the majestic mountain landscape. shintamanimustang.com PILLOW TALK Amber Villa at Earth Lodge Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve has gone all out with its new Amber Villa at Earth Lodge. The beautiful boxy accommodation, which can sleep up to five people, is in the heart of South Africa’s Greater Kruger and adds to the drama of the surrounding landscape. Large sliding doors offer glimpses of the surrounding bushveld and pool from the stylish villa, which is a clean, contemporary take on the safari camps of old. sabisabi.com
The Collective at the Woolsery The Collective at Woolsery in North Devon features seven luxurious accommodation options all with their own unique character. The three cottages, two suites and two rooms are all within the village of Woolsery, which is centred around a Norman church. Hannah Lohan Interiors has drawn on the history and heritage of the farming village and a sense of theatre and drama prevails. Whimsical Woolsery is the name of the game with bold colours and carefully curated objects from yesteryear. It feels more like the rambling home of an eccentric uncle than a hotel. Go ahead: revel in all your idleness. woolsery.com JW MARRIOTT AUCKLAND The new JW Marriott Auckland will be the first JW Marriott property in New Zealand when its $20 million refurbishment and rebrand is complete mid-2024. The 286-room hotel, formerly the Stamford Plaza Auckland, is in a prime location just steps from the Viaduct Waterfront. The brief for design firm O37 was to merge the old and new, resulting in ‘beautiful collisions’ that promote feelings of harmony and peace. marriott.com Jan Luyken Amsterdam Digital nomads should look into a stay at Jan Luyken Amsterdam, a 62-bedroom boutique townhouse hotel where guests are made to feel at home round the clock. The townhouse hotel, originally built as three private homes in 1899, is named after the 17th-century master poet of the same name and is filled with colour and light. Expect textured natural fabrics, vibrant tones and a collection of hand-sourced vintage and contemporary pieces from the Netherlands. Take one of the house bicycles to explore the nearby museum district. janluykenamsterdam.com Also in focus... BE SEEN IN SONOMA The Sea Ranch Lodge in Sonoma County (pictured top) has revealed its newly reimagined guestrooms after a multi-year multimilliondollar makeover. The debut of the 17 thoughtfully designed rooms in the North Building, built in 1968, marks the final phase of the project to revitalise the property, which overlooks a stunning stretch of the Northern Cali coastline. thesearanchlodge.com ALL EYES ON FIJI Outrigger Fiji Beach resort has unveiled phase one of its multimillion-dollar resort refurbishment. The resort (pictured above) now comprises 16 renovated premium bures and a new Premium Ocean View room category. Phase two will be completed in stages, with the upgrades taking place in the main accommodation wings, remaining bures and select public areas. outrigger.com ZANZIBAR’S HOT NEW HOTEL Global hospitality group The Lux Collective and ZK Venture Company in Zanzibar have signed a hotel management agreement for the first LUX* luxury resort in East Africa. The brilliant blue waters of the Indian Ocean lap at the doorstep of LUX* Marijani Zanzibar, which opened in July. As one might expect from a LUX* five-star property, service at the 82-room beach resort is slick. luxresorts.com ANDBEYOND PUNAKHA RIVER LODGE You can trust andBeyond to create a hotel that draws inspiration from its natural surrounds. The new andBeyond Punakha River Lodge in Bhutan builds on the brand’s conservation-led business model to take care of the land, its wildlife and people. Guests at the lodge, on the banks of the Mo Chu River, will enjoy uninterrupted views of the Himalayas from a two-bedroom villa with a private pool, a onebedroom villa with a plunge pool/hot tub – depending on the season – and six Bhutanesestyled safari tent suites. andBeyond.com INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 31
discover jaw-dropping natural phenomena, age-old civilisations and stunning human creations with wendy wu tours. 8 WO R L D WONDERS to experience W hile the renowned Seven Wonders will always be on our list, there are a multitude of under-the-radar marvels to get excited about too. Cruise along rivers that snake their way through changing landscapes and cultures, wander through ancient cities that have been carved out of rock and immerse yourself in enduring tribal cultures. Follow the footsteps of great explorers with Wendy Wu Tours to see these eight wonders. The mighty Mekong The Mekong River is the lifeblood of Southeast Asia, winding 4800 kilometres from Tibet to the South China Sea. A cruise along this legendary waterway is beauty in motion, encompassing verdant mountains, rice paddies and hodgepodge villages crammed with traditional stilt houses. Meander through the most enchanting stretch of this river onboard the Victoria Mekong as part of Wendy Wu Tours’ 21-day Mekong Explorer trip. Beginning in Can Tho, you’ll then cruise upstream before stopping at Tiger Island to visit local craftspeople, travel to a colourful Cao Dai temple and silk village, and witness a traditional Cambodian Apsara performance by local children. The Silk Road For more than 1500 years, the Silk Road connected the East and West through a vast network of trading routes. These roads allowed for the trading of commodities and an exchange of knowledge, culture and beliefs. Follow in the footsteps of these intrepid travellers on Wendy Wu Tours’ 28-day Silk Road Explorer tour. Witness Zhangye’s captivating Rainbow Mountains, the cultural crossroads of Dunhuang (known as ‘City of Sands’), visit the famous Singing Sand Dunes and get lost in Central Asia’s largest bazaar, where stallholders continue to tout spices, fabrics and carpets as they’ve in 2024 done for thousands of years. THE FIVE ’STANS Remote, raw and breathtaking, Central Asia’s five ’Stans – Kyrgyzstan, Tajikstan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan – are steeped in history, well-preserved architecture, sprawling untainted landscapes and authentic cultural experiences. Venture to these beguiling nations with Wendy Wu Tours on the 28-day Journey Through Central Asia itinerary. You’ll visit the Persian city of Bukhara in Uzbekistan, as well as Samarkand, one of the most striking and illustrious cities on the Silk Road. Guests will also see the fiery glow of the Darvaza gas crater in Turkmenistan and experience millennia-old traditions and cultures, from eagle hunting in Kochkor to sleeping in a traditional yurt like a Kyrgyz nomad.
WORDS Find more global adventures at wendywutours.com.au MEGAN ARKINSTALL JAPAN IN COLOUR Translating to ‘red leaves’, the season of koyo transforms Japan into a painterly scene, when its forests, parks and temple gardens morph into rich shades of orange, yellow and red. For the Japanese, koyo is a time for quiet contemplation. Immerse yourself in this season on Wendy Wu Tours’ 18-day Japan Uncovered trip: appreciate one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan and the newly coloured leaves at Kenroku-en, see the playful macaques of the Japanese Alps and soak up iconic views of Mt Fuji. Kerala’s Backwaters India’s south is a stark contrast to the intoxicating frenzy of the northern regions. The southern state of Kerala boasts some 600 kilometres of coastline along the Arabian Sea, with rolling hills blanketed in tea plantations and the enigmatic Kerala Backwaters nestled in between. Wendy Wu Tours’ 18-day Kerala and the Southern Highlights itinerary traces the western coast, including a night onboard a charming kettuvallam (houseboat), allowing you to cruise the web of waterways fringed with dense hyper-green foliage and palms in traditional style. Vi e t n a m’s remote hills In Vietnam’s north-west corner, the remote hill station of Sapa is a misty mountainous landscape, sculpted with rice terraces and home to diverse ethnic tribes. The best way to explore this remote part of Vietnam is by foot, soaking up panoramic views and stopping in villages where the locals live in traditional houses, dress in vibrantly coloured outfits and practise age-old handicrafts. Spend three glorious nights in Sapa with Wendy Wu Tours’ 16-day Vietnam Trails trip. WOR L D’ S L A RGE ST SALT FLAT Imagine staying on the edge of the world’s largest salt flat in a hotel carved almost entirely out of salt. Covering more than 10,400 square kilometres, the dazzling white landscape of Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is made up of a polygonal pattern of thick salt crust, a remnant of a prehistoric lake. When nearby lakes overflow, a few inches of water can form a mirror-like surface that reflects the sky, adding to the drama. Wendy Wu Tours’ 29-day Ultimate South America journey includes a night at a salt hotel, as well as an unforgettable picnic on the salt flats. You can also take an excursion to the dormant Tunupu volcano to see the archaeological remains of the Coquesa mummies in a cave. Ancient Petra The ancient city of Petra was built in the third century BCE by the Nabataeans, who carved it out of sandstone; located between the Dead Sea and the Red Sea, this archaeological site was once an important crossroads of the Silk Road. Wander this UNESCO World Heritage-listed site on Wendy Wu Tours’ 20-day Egypt & Jordan Adventure. Spend two nights in the city of Petra and wander the narrow Siq Canyon to the Treasury, an elaborate temple lit up by thousands of candles after dark. In partnership with Wendy Wu Tours
34 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM retro roadside stays in the USA are being restored and reimagined for the modern traveller, kickstarting a serious comeback for the humble motel. Rewind to mid-20th century USA: the golden age of the great American motel. With an increase in people owning family cars and opting for road trips over train journeys, these low-rise lodgings became a ubiquitous sight all over the country. They offered affordable, convenient and stylish places to rest along the way. They made their way to Australian shores, too, and were as popular as ever in the 1960s and ’70s. But at the turn of the century – as newly built highways bypassed small towns – the popularity and necessity of the humble motel dwindled. Neon lights that advertised ‘colour TVs’ and ‘air conditioning’ flickered. Vacancy signs were permanently switched on. Many motels aged terribly or were boarded up completely. However in recent years, WORDS MEGAN ARKINSTALL PHOTOGRAPHY SKYVIEW LOS ALAMOS (SKYVIEW POOL); SKYVIEW LOS ALAMOS/KARYN R MILLET (SKYVIEW EXTERIOR); JACKIE LEE YOUNG (EXTERIOR, PHOENIX HOTEL); NICK SIMONITE (PHOENIX HOTEL ROOM) Comeback digs CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Stay and play at the sunny Skyview Los Alamos; The Phoenix rises again; And becomes a San Fran stalwart; The Skyview is oh-so Cali cool; Utopia reimagined at The Nightingale; The dreamy Drifter Hotel. motels have risen from the dust of getaway cars thanks to a bunch of clever tastemakers who boldly injected a whole lot of love (and money) into transforming these roadside eyesores into coveted places to stay. In its halcyon days, the 1959 Skyview motel in Los Alamos, California was rumoured to have hosted The Beatles and word on the street is that The Mamas and The Papas wrote Monday, Monday while staying here, too. But at the turn of the century, the abandoned motel on the hill was coined ‘the Psycho motel’ until a two-year-long, multimillion-dollar renovation, thanks to the Nomada Hotel Group, transformed it from a horror scene to a desert hideaway, complete with a restaurant named Norman – after the serial killer from the Hitchcock film. Further north in San Francisco, the 1956-built Phoenix Hotel followed its golden era with a sordid period when bands on tour would hole up here and legendary nights of rock ’n’ roll would ensue, with past guests including Kurt Cobain, Debbie Harry and JFK Jr. The refreshed incarnation continues to welcome artistic vagrants in its bright and quirky rooms. While in New Orleans, a city that can only be described as an assault on the senses, The Crescent Palms Motel was purchased in its dilapidated state by The Drifter Hotel group, which completed an extensive renovation sympathetic to the building’s mid-century roots. The newly branded and eclectic Drifter Hotel oozes playfulness with hints of low-key luxury and, much like The Big Easy itself, is a cultural melting pot for eccentric locals and global drifters alike. Less debauchery occurred at The Nightingale Motel in Pagosa Springs, Southwest Colorado, but the twee floral bedspreads were as much an indiscretion. The 1940s-built pine cabins were given a thoughtful makeover that saw the burgundy colour palette overturned in favour of a sleek monochromatic aesthetic, emanating a cosy ranch feel for modern travellers en route to nearby Wolf Creek Ski Area. The room keys continue to turn, with a melange of motels being revamped along the motorways of the US and beyond. A renaissance that is bringing uninspiring buildings that were long left neglected to life, and their stories too. IT NOMAD | Travel trend
step aboard The only next-level expedition cruise line to visit the off-grid untouched wonders and magnificent islands of the real fiji. of Islands) and uninhabited Vuaqava Island. Sailing from Nadi and launching for the 2024/25 season, MS Caledonian Sky will run a variety of cruises, with two new seven-day journeys to southern or northern Lau and Kadavu Island groups. On the Remote North Discovery Cruise, passengers can step foot on islands rarely visited by tourists and experience genuine and meaningful interactions with villagers. On Makogai Island, for example, you’ll join local children in a small village hall as they sing hymns in their Sunday best. The island was once a leper colony, and visitors can also learn about the local history on a tour of the graveyard, where thick jungle marches towards headstones. Another highlight of the trip is Levuka, the nation’s original capital in the 1870s. This sleepy town is now a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site and offers visitors a glimpse into Fiji’s colonial past. There’s plenty of time for cruise passengers to wander around the peeling weatherboard buildings and imagine what life was like when sea cucumber traders, whalers, sailors and missionaries drifted in and out of these unforgettable waters with the tide. C aptain Cook Cruises Fiji is embarking on an exciting new era of sailing, as this iconic company is now offering luxury expedition cruises to Fiji’s stunning little-visited and exclusive islands. The cruise line’s award-winning fleet can easily navigate remote islands and reefs, and passengers will experience a kind of luxury that surpasses hotel butlers and private plunge pools. Guests will access areas rarely visited by larger cruise ship crowds, as well as cultural immersion that goes far beyond a pop-up market in an over-run port. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji will continue to run its Remote North Discovery Cruise on its classic MV Reef Endeavour until November; after that, the MS Caledonian Sky will take over, heralding a new age of luxury for the company. The new ship features deluxe suites with private balconies, while there will also be more dining options, extra staff, higher levels of service and an enhanced expedition team of marine biologists, cultural experts and ocean ambassadors to elevate your experience. As for the itineraries, you can expect to journey into little-known parts of Fiji, including the largely unexplored Lau Islands. You’ll go off-grid to discover the lagoons of Qilaqila (also known as the Bay CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Step onto exquisite private islands; Visit spectacular lagoons and reefs; Experience meaning ful moments with locals; Enjoy luxury service on the sun-kissed top deck; The new MS Caledonian Sky. To learn more and to book your luxury Fijian WORDS journey, visit captaincookcruisesfiji.com JENNIFER ENNION PHOTOGRAPHY CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES In partnership with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji
Snow-dusted mountain peaks, rolling green hills, unbelievable turquoise lakes, iconic viaducts, whimsical waterfalls and charming towns and villages are just some of the breathtaking sights that make Switzerland such an incredible place to travel. I f ease and comfort are your thing (who are we kidding, of course they’re your thing), you need to get yourself a Swiss Travel Pass and start exploring the beautiful surroundings on the 1280-kilometre Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. This experience transports you into the thick of the action, adventure and landscape without lifting a finger (except maybe to wine and dine from your comfy seat). Seriously though, why spend hours driving and concentrating on the road when you can sit back, relax and take in everything Switzerland has to offer with no hassle? Not to mention Swiss trains run like clockwork, so you’ll always be where you planned to be right on time. The eight different sections of the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland include five premium panoramic trains that pass through majestic scenery and urge you to explore at your own pace, allowing you to hop on and off wherever your journey takes you. Whether you want to experience the joys of Interlaken, Rhine Falls, Zermatt or Lucerne, here are a few of our favourite highlights on the unforgettable Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. THE GLACIER EXPRESS It doesn’t get much more luxurious than the Glacier Express. While all the premium panoramic trains offer up-close-and-personal sightseeing from the comfort of your carriage, the Glacier Express Excellence Class is setting new standards. This is the only route to offer Excellence Class, allowing you to look through oversized panoramic windows to take in unobstructed views of Rhine Gorge, Oberalp Pass, the Matterhorn and the valleys beneath 291 bridges, all while sipping Champagne and nibbling an array of amuse-bouche. You’ll also be served a five-course meal with paired wines. Whether you choose to take the whole eight-hour route from Zermatt to St Moritz or just a section of the journey, the guaranteed window seats, exclusive bar, onboard entertainment, concierge service and personal travel guides makes this an unmissable highlight. Seat reservations are required. FULL STEAM AHEAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Enjoy unparalleled views while crossing the iconic Landwasser Viaduct; And while travelling through the picturesque Rhine Gorge onboard the Glacier Express; Step aboard the Bernina Express. WORDS EMILY MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHY STEFAN SCHLUMPF (VIADUCT, GORGE); SWITZERLAND TOURISM (VORALPEN-EXPRESS, BERNINA); ANDRE MEIER (LUCERNE); THOMAS KESSLER (GOTTHARD PANARAMA EXPRESS); ROB LEWIS (TRAIN AT SUNDOWN)
CASTLES OF BELLINZONA Experience history and adventure in one package as you board the Gotthard Panorama Express to Bellinzona in the Italian-speaking Switzerland south of the Alps. Th e Castles of Bellinzona – Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro, together with the walls and ramparts – are the only visible examples of medieval military architecture of this scale in the Alps. UNESCO World Heritage listed since 2000, the Castles of Bellinzona are well worth a visit and are easily accessible with the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. ST GALLEN Th e city of St Gallen in north-east Switzerland is charming, unique and relatively untouched. Home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed St Gallen Abbey District – made up of the Abbey of St Gall, Abbey Library and the monastery archives – the city oozes with Baroque architecture and begs you to wander its cobblestoned streets. Th e Voralpen-Express connects St Gallen with Lucerne. Th is 125-kilometre route takes you across the foothills of the Alps and gifts stunning landscapes of Rapperswil and Arth Goldau. It also crosses Lake Zurich and the 99-metre-high Sitter Viaduct, the highest railway bridge in Switzerland. While in St Gallen, a stop at Drei Weieren (Th ree Ponds) is a must. In summer, join the locals for a dip; in winter, the pond is a popular ice-skating spot. To top it all off , the vast views over the city will delight you no matter the season. LUZERN-INTERLAKEN EXPRESS Water is at the core of this two-hour premium panoramic route that takes you from Lucerne in Central Switzerland down to the uber-popular Interlaken in the Jungfrau region. You’ll spend much of the train ride ready to snap pics of the awe-inspiring waterfalls, rivers and iconic lakes. Experience the train change to cogwheel drivetrain technology as it begins its ascent to Brünig Pass, then take in the views at BrünigHasliberg, the peak of the pass and the highest stop on this route. Stay a while in Brienz, a village surrounded by the dramatic Bernese Oberland mountainscapes and the turquoise Lake Brienz. A trip up the oldest funicular railway in Europe to Giessbach Falls is a must; the thundering waterfall spanning to sprawling vistas of the lake is mesmerising. If you can swing it, stay the night at the Grand Hotel Giessbach, which is surrounded by the falls, forest and a picturesque lake to live out your fairy tale for a night. LANDWASSER VIADUCT When you think of trains in Switzerland, you’re likely picturing the Bernina Express crossing the 65-metre-high Landwasser Viaduct, without knowing what or where it is. Th is famous structure is part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rhaetian Railway, which brings together the Albula and Bernina train lines. Th is four-hour premium panoramic train journey will transport you from Chur, in Switzerland’s east, down across the Italian border into Tirano. In summer, the journey can be extended from Tirano to Lugano on the Bernina Express bus. From Lugano, continue on the Gotthard Panorama Express to Lucerne. Seat reservations are required on both the Bernina and the Gotthard Panorama Expresses. Learn more and book at myswitzerland.com/grandtraintour CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Travel Switzerland by rail; See picture-perfect vistas in Lucerne; Visit Montebello Castle; Majestic views abound while on the Voralpen-Express; Unforgettable scenes await. In partnership with Switzerland Tourism
If you want to explore Paris like a Parisienne, then French-born Elise Pioch Balzac, the creative mind behind Maison Balzac, recommends starting with “a crispy croissant from Mamiche in the 9th arrondissement”. After, stroll over to the markets on Rue des Martyrs to source some cheese and bread for lunch. You’ll need it to fuel up for an afternoon of shopping – Elise advises designer boutique Th e Broken Arm, as well as Monoprix, as “the entire collection is so French”. Restaurant Petrelle (pictured right) is a quaint spot to end the day with dinner. “Th ey only have a handful of tables,” says Elise, “and they have a cat sleeping on a chair as you walk in.” Hôtel Grand Powers in Paris nods to the heritage, history and many hues that have coloured the building since its establishment in the mid-19th century. Grand entrance WORDS ELIZABETH WHITEHEAD PHOTOGRAPHY ROMAIN RICARD (DELUXE SUITE, CAFE 52, DELUXE BATHROOM, EIFFEL TOWER); PETER VAN ALPHEN (ELISE PIOCH BALZAC); COURTESY RESTAURANT PETRELLE (DISH) Like a local WHERE IT IS Hôtel Grand Powers, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World portfolio, is located in the glittering ‘Golden Triangle’ of Paris, between the Eiff el Tower, Arc de Triomphe and ChampsÉlysées in the city’s 8th arrondissement. Visitors will fi nd themselves near to high-end shops such as Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, in addition to some of the city’s fi nest landmarks. slh.com WHY WE LOVE IT Th e interior of Hôtel Grand Powers is a composite of the rich design eras the space has witnessed in its 200-year-plus history. Th e Haussmann bones of the building have been accentuated by a recent revamp that uses modern, minimalist fl air to give breathing space to some of the hotel’s original features. Th e result is a spacious, light-fi lled layout that showcases Baroque-style ceiling mouldings, heavy-set marble fi replaces with gold accents and ornate fl eur-de-lis motifs. Th e rooms also nod to the hotel’s Art Deco heritage with subtle design touches and a striking jewel-toned colour palette. Th e hotel’s Café 52, dressed in chic pastels and luxurious gold fl ourishes, is also the perfect spot to sip coff ee and observe Parisian street life pass by. WHAT TO BORROW Strike a balance between busy and basic with a careful contrast of design features. Incorporate fl orid lines and textures with antiques and off set the eff ect elsewhere with a more minimalist approach. Contemporary takes on classic fi xtures, such as chandeliers, signal timeless luxury with a more refi ned, modern spin. Hotel to home
Design | NOMAD A century ago, Paris was a fever dream of creativity. Nothing encapsulated this more than the Ballets Russes, a dance company founded in the French capital in 1909 by the Russian impresario Serge Diaghilev that metabolised all that was modern at the time. Its daring productions ran for two decades and in that time attracted collaborations with the most avant-garde artists of the day. Early productions were typifi ed by iconoclastic scores, Léon Bakst’s bold Art Nouveau costume designs and dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, a tour de force; the 1913 premiere of Igor Stravinsky’s Th e Rite of Spring caused a riot in the Th éâtre des Champs-Élysées. By the 1920s, the productions were taking on surrealist stylings, and it is this era that Maison Balzac bottles in its Ballets Russesinspired collection, La Danse. “La Danse captures the element of innovation and surrealism that was in the air in Paris around the 1920s,” says Sydney-based founder Elise Pioch Balzac. Th e collection of glassware, linen and fragrance whisks us away. “I feel that our one-line drawings, trompe l’œil linen and red lipstick perfumes epitomise the French avantCurtains up INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 39 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A pick of pieces from La Danse Chapter III; Th e collection includes linen; Maison Balzac was inspired by surrealism; Th e Happy Vase in amber and pink adds a shot of joy; Th e Cello Apron cheers up a dinner party; Stylised glassware from La Danse Chapter I. Max Chair, $799; jameslane.com.au Pier Bench, $1350; mcoproperty.com.au Gold Mirrored Drinks Trolley, $329.95; gigiandtom.com.au Choros Chandelier; $2490; montauk lightingco.com Rita European Pillowcase, $69.99; linenhouse.com garde of the time. Pick any piece and be transported to my home country one century ago!” Th e dance company has inspired countless creatives over the years, from Elsa Schiaparelli to Yves Saint Laurent, and Elise is no exception. “I was 20 when I discovered Jean Cocteau and the Ballets Russes. It has fascinated me ever since and infl uenced my brand as a whole from the start. Nijinsky, Chanel, Cocteau, Picasso, Diaghilev, Satie, Debussy... all these artists were involved with the Ballets Russes at some stage and were part of my mood board when I set up the values of Maison Balzac 11 years ago. It was only natural to dedicate an entire collection to this passion of mine.” A Schiaparelli exhibition staged in Paris last year proved the catalyst. Elise’s favourite piece? “Th e Cello Apron; I love cooking for friends and organise a lot of dinner parties, so the apron will be my go-to outfi t to make people smile as they arrive.” maisonbalzac.com
Edwina Hart explores the concept of wunderkammer and unpacks the temptation to collect souvenirs while travelling, from turkish teapots to Andean textiles. A World of Small Wonder Wonders need not always be colossal or grand. Smallscale objects can elicit large emotions – they can surprise and delight us or fill us with awe. The German concept of wunderkammer (‘room of wonder’) began as an aristocratic pursuit in 16th-century Europe during the Age of Exploration, whereby worldly travellers showcased marvels from far-flung places in their own homes. These cabinets of curiosities were the precursor to modern-day museums. I came across the word while taking a tour around Villa del Balbianello, arguably the most magnificent villa on the shores of Lake Como. Twentieth-century adventurer and explorer Count Guido Monzino – who led the first Italian expedition to summit Mt Everest – was the last living resident of the lavish property. Most visitors come to admire the tiered Italian gardens that cascade down to the lake; the few that do venture inside are treated to a treasure trove of pieces collected from the North to South Pole: Aztec sculptures, artefacts from Sub-Saharan Africa and a fur-covered sled used during the Count’s own polar expeditions. Private collector’s museums are especially charming. They possess an intimate quality that larger, stately museums mostly lack. When I lived in New York City, as much as I loved getting lost in the hallowed halls of The Met, I found myself equally drawn to a tiny antiquarian store called the George Glazer Gallery. It felt so perfectly personal; filled with old globes, maps and rarities – like wandering into the world’s coolest attic. Meanwhile, across the pond, the British Museum is famed for one of the most extensive collections of remarkable objects (also some of the most contentious). Take a 10-minute stroll down the road and you’ll find Sir John Soane’s Museum, which is far more intriguing. The former home of the 19th-century British architect and collector is completely cluttered with art and antiquities, including the 3000-year-old sarcophagus of Seti I, considered to be one of the most important objects ever discovered in Egypt. Glancing around my Sydney apartment, I’ve realised that my own home has become a wunderkammer of sorts. As a travel writer with an eye for design, I have a bowerbird-type tendency on my trips. My suitcase inevitably ends up bursting at the seams and my shelves The design dispatch PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA HART (ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE, PERUVIAN WOMAN) have taken on a dusty, museum-like quality. It’s a cornucopia of antique Turkish teapots, Greek marble busts, lanterns from the labyrinthine souks of Marrakech, Andean textiles, Portuguese tiles, razor-sharp Japanese knives I’m too scared to use, matryoshka dolls from St Petersburg and a decorative head-shaped Sicilian vase known as a Testa di Moro I picked up in Taormina that I fill with fresh flowers. The French word souvenir, which loosely translates to ‘recollection’, entered the English language around 1775 and refers to objects that remind us of a particular place or time. A souvenir might take the form of postcards or gifts, particularly noteworthy in the Japanese tradition of omiyage: returning from a journey with beautifully wrapped gift boxes for family, friends and co-workers. But mostly, souvenirs are deeply personal keepsakes – sentimental objects that evoke our own past. But why do so many of us feel a compulsion to collect tchotchkes on our travels? I’m convinced humankind has been putting pebbles and seashells in our pockets since time immemorial. Rolf Potts, author of Object Lessons: Souvenirs, describes the ritual as “a way of mythologising our own lives”. And apparently, we’ve been doing this for millennia. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans would bring back treasures from foreign lands. The practice was later popularised by Christian pilgrims from the 4th century CE, who plundered religious sites in the Holy Land for relics said to have healing powers. By the Middle Ages, these pilgrims weren’t immune CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Marrakech, Morocco, is known for its artisanal wares; Shop for refined perfumes and skincare in Lisbon, Portugal; A visit to St Petersberg, Russia, uncovers stacks of matryoshka dolls.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Buy colourful textiles at the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco, Peru; Admire treasures at Sir John Soane’s Museum; George Glazer in his New York gallery; Experience the concept of wunderkammer at Villa del Balbianello in Lake Como, Italy. INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 41 Pack your bags From a modern classic work of literature to statement accessories, equip yourself with small treasures on your travels – and save space for those consciously chosen souvenirs you’ll collect along the way. to the persuasion of merchants in Jerusalem spruiking small bottles fi lled with holy water – an early iteration of the souvenir industry. As the world’s horizons rapidly expanded, human travels evolved from military and religious reasons to intellectual curiosity and scientifi c pursuits during the Age of Enlightenment. From the 17th century, the elite echelons of European society would return from the Grand Tour with muchprized possessions from abroad to show off their worldliness. Th en, by the 19th century, industrialisation and mass manufacturing (think: teaspoons, snow globes and decorated plates) saw the beginnings of the industry we know today, where Eiff el Tower key rings sold in Paris are produced in factories in China. Tourists typically spend a portion of their travel budget on shopping, and we’re all a bit guilty of coming home with a kitsch fridge magnet or two. However, growing awareness of the environmental impacts of mass-produced mementos means travellers are increasingly more mindful of where their tourist dollars go and make conscious decisions to contribute to the local economy. So, let’s not underestimate these diminutive, deeply personal wonders. After all, they’re endowed with signifi cant meaning and oncein-a-lifetime memories. “Souvenirs can be a mechanism of refl ection and wonder,” writes Potts, “a concrete way of reminding its owner that, once upon a time, she had experiences in a faraway place.” Yes, and they also look rather marvellous on my mantelpiece. IT Design | NOMAD Stash your treasures in Pampa’s Porteño Carryall in tobacco and camel, $345; pampa.com.au Keep it under wraps with Lack of Color’s Cindy Bucket in purple tweed, $199; lackofcolor.com.au Stay charged in style with Kreafunk’s dusty pink toCHARGE power bank, $75; kreafunk.com Keep your eyes peeled with Banbé Eyewear’s THE LAIS sunglasses in pearl tort-caramel, $79.95; banbeeyewear.com Make a statement with Elk’s Jule Drop Earring in bright pink, $69; elkthelabel.com Add a dash of colour with BYREDO’s Tinted Lip Balm in ocra, $77.00; mecca.com.au The Miniaturist by Jessie Burton will transport you to 17th-century Amsterdam, $21.99; panmacmillan. com.au
FIVE OF THE BEST: PASSPORT HOLDERS Simple yet stylish, these design wonders have carved out a reputation as closet must-haves around the world. Mon Purse, Leather passport holder, $75; monpurse.com Oroton, Inez Passport Cover, $59; oroton.com Kinnon, Earle passport holder, $129; kinnon.com.au Globite, Leather passport cover, $54.95; globite.com The little black dress Th ere’s perhaps no wardrobe staple more ubiquitous than the little black dress. It’s so pervasive that it’s known simply by its initials, LBD – a status that’s usually reserved for presidents and celebrity icons alike. Th e origins of the LBD can be traced back to 1926 when an illustration of one of Coco Chanel’s designs graced the pages of American Vogue. It was the French designer’s goal to create a versatile and accessible garment that would make regular women “walk around like millionaires”. Dressed down, the LBD could be worn as casual daywear or dressed up for formal occasions, à la Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’ (pictured right). To this day, the LBD is considered a timeless classic that no modern wardrobe is considered complete without. Keep your travel documents safe and chic MAISON de SABRÉ, Th e passport holder, $79; maisondesabre.com Reebok, Classic leather women’s shoes, $150; reebok.com.au MAISON de SABRÉ, Th e Snap soft tote in rouge noir, $309; maisondesabre.com Charlotte Tilbury, K.I.S.S.I.N.G Love Bite lipstick, $49; charlottetilbury.com Style statement NOMAD | Style 42 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM Brigid McLaughlin, Freya shift dress, $399; brigidmclaughlin.com Levi’s, 501 ’90s Jeans in blue beauty, $159.95; levis.com.au RECIETY, Vintage Christian Dior earrings; $660; reciety.com Arms of Eve, Vienna necklace, $89; armsofeve.com Jac Cadeaux, Classic trench, $695; jaccadeaux.com WORDS ELIZABETH WHITEHEAD Jac Cadeaux, La Bouvier stripe french tee, $110; jaccadeaux.com
Cruising turquoise waters on a superyacht-inspired ship like a total rockstar? Virgin Voyages sets the challenge. N E W K I D S THE DINING EXPERIENCE Buffets will always have their place – on other cruise lines. Virgin Voyages is all about intimate spaces and diverse dining options, with over 20 eateries designed by a Michelin-starred chef collective. From boozy brunches and rambunctious Korean barbecue to upscale Mexican and a 10-course degustation, every culinary desire (yes, even the 5am in-room burger delivery) is catered for. Psst: Virgin Voyages has scooped more awards for its dining than most of us have had hot meals. SUITE LIFE Solo travellers, girls’ groups, multi-generational fun and romantic rendezvous are all covered. Rock stars, real and imagined, are catered for across all categories, from the roomy rain showers and mood lighting of Insider and Sea View Suites through to the hammocks of the Sea Terrace. The RockStar Quarters offer elevated living at its best: think bottomless in-room bars, private hot tubs, With its stunning constellation of palm-fringed islands, coral reefs and cays, booking a Caribbean cruise isn’t a hard sell. Virgin Voyages, however, doesn’t merely cruise the region – instead, the company elevates the experience, offering an exclusively adult, all-inclusive service where food, (essential) drinks, gratuities, wi-fi, entertainment and exercise classes are all covered. The enjoyment of onboard tattoo parlours, record stores and boxing rings is also encouraged. THE ITINERARY Cruising to eight postcard-perfect Caribbean destinations and offering over 150 shore excursions – including salsa dancing, cooking classes, beach horseback riding and ATV throttling through lush junglescapes – there’s an embarrassment of activities, azure waters and emerald forests for you to explore. Departing from Port Miami, most of Virgin Voyages’ Caribbean itineraries include a late or overnight stay, so you can make the most of the nightlife in hot destinations like Costa Maya, San Juan, St Croix or Beach Club at Bimini. WORDS DILVIN YASA Discover more at virginvoyages.com RockStar Agents (your private concierge) and exclusive access to Richard’s Rooftop. ONBOARD ENTERTAINMENT Letting down your salty hair is serious business with Virgin Voyages, each sailing featuring a Glastonbury-like line-up of the industry’s hottest entertainers, directors and choreographers. Immersive shows and nightclubs are part of the fun, but so too are pyjama parties, private karaoke booths and arcade games – plus a gym which features an adult-sized seesaw. Don’t worry, the day spa will help you wind down. GLOBAL SAILINGS Prefer Mediterranean or – dare we say it – Australian waters? Virgin Voyages’ three ships cruise to over 100 destinations. Resilient Lady makes the most of the South Pacific from her new home ports of Melbourne and Auckland, while Valiant Lady treats guests to the best of Europe and Scarlet Lady sails around the Caribbean. Cairo, Goa, Bali and Singapore are possible too, but now they’re just showing off. In partnership with Virgin Voyages
Memory lane | NOMAD Magic milestone The Walt Disney Company is celebrating 100 years in 2023 and the heart of the festivities are taking place in California, where it all began. I only hope that we never lose sight of one thing – that it was all started by a mouse,” Walt Disney once said. The Walt Disney Company, at the time known as the Disney Brothers Cartoon Studio, was founded in October 1923 and has since gone on to influence filmmaking, animation and tourism in an unprecedented way. The creation of Mickey Mouse in 1928 was the Walt Disney Company’s creative turning point. Mickey represents everything the business wanted to portray – happiness, fun, dreams and the ability to bring families together. To further that narrative, Disney began the groundwork for its biggest venture yet, the creation of Mickey Mouse Park. Up until that point, amusement parks were not typically considered family-friendly, but instead rife with pickpockets and known to attract chaos and crime. Walt wanted his park to be pristine, safe, controlled and – most controversially – incur a fee to enter. During the post-Second World War economic boom, American families found themselves flush with extra cash and were willing to spend it on travel and entertainment. Walt’s park would be the hot new place to go. Disneyland opened its gates for the very first time on 17 July 1955. It spanned 65 hectares, had a hotel, a theme park comprised of five lands and 18 major attractions including the Mad Tea Party, the Jungle Cruise, Autopia and the Mark Twain Riverboat. Clockwise From LEFT: Disneyland continues to inspire excitement that draws the crowds; The Sleeping Beauty Castle has long been a favourite; As has the Mad Tea Party, a spinning teacup ride, one of Disneyland’s original attractions. Disneyland’s invitation-only opening day gala was broadcast live on ABC, with nearly half the American population tuning in. Within its first 10 weeks, Disneyland attracted one million visitors. By 1960, there were five million visitors per year. In 2022, the Disneyland Resort had 18 million visitors through its gates who could visit three hotels, a shopping district and two theme parks: Disneyland Park and Disney California Adventure Park. Here, every element – from scents and colours to the fact that nobody is seen clearing the bins, yet they somehow remain empty – is carefully orchestrated. An idealised vision of America that invites you to suspend disbelief and fall for Disney’s own brand of magic. Disney’s impact over the last century is undeniable. Worldwide, it has opened 12 theme parks located on six resort campuses including Walt Disney World Resort in Florida in 1971 and, most recently, Shanghai Disney Resort in 2016. Disney also went on to conquer the seas with the launch of Disney Cruise Line in 1998; Disney Magic at Sea is sailing Australian and New Zealand waters this summer season and next. Since the 1980s, Disney has expanded its repertoire further by acquiring a variety of production companies and studios including Pixar, Marvel Studios, Lucasfilm, 20th Century Studios, 20th Century Animation and Searchlight Pictures. This year’s centenary celebration includes each and every part of the Disney realm and is being commemorated at Disney Parks across the globe. But the heart of the celebration is where it all began – at Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, California. Kicking off the celebration was the opening of Mickey and Minnie’s Runaway Railway, the resort’s first ride-through attraction starring the couple themselves. Two night-time spectaculars also debuted: World of Color – ONE and Wondrous Journeys. World of Color – ONE is the first night-time spectacular to feature characters, music and moments from Walt Disney Animation Studios, Pixar Animation Studios, The Avengers and Star Wars all in the same production. Wondrous Journeys is a nod to every Walt Disney Animation Studios film created over the last century. Both the ride and performances have been permanently added to the resort’s roster – meaning there are now three more reasons to visit the happiest place on Earth. IT WORDS EMILY MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHY ALLAN GRANT/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION VIA GETTY IMAGES (CASTLE); LOOMIS DEAN/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION VIA GETTY IMAGES (TEACUPS) 44 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
MISSISSIPPI RIVER CRUISING American Queen Voyages Mississippi cruising takes you on a historic and luxurious adventure through America’s heartland. Our beautifully restored paddlewheelers showcase the old-world charm of river cruising with modern comforts. Indulge in the finest Southern cuisine and enjoy the warm embrace of Southern hospitality as you sway to the rhythms of the jazz age. Start planning your 2024 adventure. Visit AQVoyages.com.au, call 1800 076 290 or see your local travel agent.
Discover More. 1300 318 227 roundabouttravel.com.au/discover Terms and conditions apply. See website for details. Exceptional Value. Endless Possibilities. ECONOMY CLASS Round the World $1,994 FROM PREMIUM ECONOMY Round the World $4,988 FROM BUSINESS CLASS Round the World $8,284 FROM FIRST CLASS Round the World $15,771 FROM Fly Around The World Book With The Experts
POSTCARDS ATHENS . . . . . . . . . GRASS ROUTES . . . . . . . . . 48 HOURS . . . . . . . . . TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . THE DATAI LANGKAWI GREEK REVIVAL A new generation of Athenians are making a stay in the Greek capital a cool and covetable proposition. Boutique retreats such as Gatsby Athens Hotel – where every element is carefully curated – echo the city’s fresh energy. Go to Greece for its ancient wonders; stay for its modern marvels. Turn the page for more. PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA HART
The Greek capital has shaken off the dust, re-emerging in recent years as one of Europe’s most dynamic destinations. Edwina Hart gets to know the new Athens. Cradle of COOL 48 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
Those who still view Athens as the gritty gateway to the Greek Islands have missed the memo. Athens is achingly cool. In fact, the Athenian charm comes from the heady mix of dense, traffic-clogged streets and sun-drenched marble monuments. A modern Mediterranean metropolis scattered with Byzantine churches, crumbling Doric columns, Ottoman mosques, Neoclassical mansions and ancient ruins – crowned by the fabled Acropolis. From this chaos comes an abundance of creativity; a reinvention among the relics of a great civilisation. There’s a new energy emanating from the city. You can feel it everywhere from the stone-paved streets of Plaka to the port-side galleries of Piraeus, in and among the trendy cafes, boutique hotels and thriving arts scene. The Art of Hospitality Hotelier, creative director and photographer Eftihia Stefanidi is among the vanguard of young Greeks reshaping the storied city. Her first hotel project, Shila, is a stylish six-suite bohemian townhouse situated in Kolonaki’s leafy streets. Soon after the doors opened in 2020, it quickly became Athens’ most coveted address. Not to mention a backdrop to Dior and Versace campaigns. A second, and more edgy, lodging soon followed. The eight-storey Mona hotel is housed in a 1950s textile factory in the buzzing downtown district of Psirri. It’s a complete departure from Shila, with its industrial-chic aesthetic, member’s club and rooftop DJ sets. However, both properties double as commercial art galleries, where guests can purchase objets d’art that catch their eye. Eftihia personally sources artisanal products – everything from the buttery croissants at breakfast to the bathroom amenities, textiles and ceramics are collaborations with local artisans and producers. >> On the scene | POSTCARDS CLOCKWISE FROM top left: The ancient ruins of the Acropolis are the crown of this energetic city that pulses with cool; Attic Antique room at stylish boutique hotel, Shila. OPPOSITE: This thick Greek-style coffee is prepared over heated sand and served with loukoumi (a Greek version of Turkish delight). PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA HART (GREEK COFFEE, ACROPOLIS, DETAIL); PATRICK JANELLE (SHILA) The Golden Age in Greece Located right in the beating heart of the historic city centre, Gatsby Athens Hotel is a 33-room boutique hotel set in a 1930s building. There are glamorous Art Deco design details throughout. As its Roaring Twenties-inspired name suggests, Gatsby Athens aims to provide more than just a good night’s sleep. It’s a playful social scene too. Head on up to the guests-only rooftop garden bar, Cloud 9, to enjoy views over the city with a signature Artemis Negroni in hand. Or you could splurge on ‘The Gatsby Party Suite’, which boasts an outdoor cinema and jacuzzi. Every element has been carefully curated; even the staff uniforms are specially designed by local fashion designer, Yiorgos Eleftheriades. Flea Market Finds Don’t miss the treasure trove of a flea market in Monastiraki. And when you take a break from bargaining over bric-a-brac, Cafe Avissinia is an authentic Cypriot bistro that serves Greek classics passed down from generation to generation. It’s an atmospheric spot, much-loved by locals, and has a rooftop with a glimpse of the Acropolis. Order the moussaka; you won’t regret it. For a light dessert hailing from Cyprus, the mahalepi is a delicate rosewater jelly that adds a floral footnote to the feast.
PHOTOGRAPHY PIA RIVEROLA (SHILA); EDWINA HART (ALL REMAINING IMAGES) CLOCKWISE FROM left: Industrial chic interiors of Mona hotel; Cherchez La Femme is a traditional Greek coffeehouse known as a kafeneion in the heart of the city’s historical centre; The ever-present Acropolis; Breakfast is laid out at Gatsby Athens Hotel; The Artist Atelier room at Shila; The pretty hillside neighbourhood of Plaka. Cafe Culture Marble floors edged with Greek geometric borders and drinks coasters inscribed with Aristotelian quotes seems very on-brand at the ultra-chic Philos Cafe, tucked away in a 1930s-era building in the upscale Kolonaki district. The all-day brunch includes items such as the signature avocado toast, nourishing salads and grain bowls. Fashionable Museums The Benaki Museum of Greek Culture might not be new – founded by Antoni Benaki to showcase his collection of treasures in the 1930s – but it has expanded significantly over the years. The museum is an ode to Greek culture under the roof of one of the most handsome neoclassical-style buildings in Athens. Beautiful rooms filled with beautiful things – objects from the Bronze Age to the Second World War. Its exquisite Greek masterpieces draw the fashion crowd. Port-side Art in Piraeus Hailed by some as ‘Berlin by the sea’, the ancient seaport of Piraeus is synonymous with the Greek shipping industry, while its new export takes the shape of art and design. The burgeoning cultural hub has attracted artists with its abandoned warehouse spaces ripe for repurposing, as well as international galleries and studios. Carwan, an avant-garde design space that opened in 2020, arrived in Athens via Beirut. And if you’re looking for someone to discuss modern Athenian art with, pop into sophisticated wine bar Paleo. The Naxos Apothecary Athens has an answer to Australian brand Aesop, and it’s called The Naxos Apothecary. The scent of Greek summer hits you the moment you step in through the doorway of the flagship store, which has an alluring vintage drugstore aesthetic with a touch of modern minimalism. The skincare and fragrances are inspired by the Cycladic isle of Naxos and surrounding islands. Natural cosmetics are extracted from local herbs, flowers and plants. Expect unique ingredients including amaranth, sea lilies and wild pear. Greek Sandals If you’re going to be pounding Athens’ pavements, you need to wear the right attire. Sandals were believed to be worn by Grecian gods, and Ancient Greek Sandals leans into this legacy. Co-founder Christina Martini previously designed shoes for the likes of Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton before she embarked on creating her own brand. Martini has taken classic Greek tradition and run with it, with contemporary shoes handmade by skilled craftsmen using centuries-old techniques. Drinking Hotspots In the shadow of the Acropolis, the hip spritzeria Drupes & Drips serves Italian aperitivo drinks, cheese and charcuterie. The freshly baked bread is supplied by the famous Takis Bakery, just across the road. It’s a great place to pause for a refreshing drink between meandering around the museums. Meanwhile, as the Greeks have been making wine for thousands of years, it’s only natural to seek out one of the best wine bars in the city – Tanini Agapi Mou (‘Tannin My Love’) celebrates minimal-intervention wines. Or, if you’re all about the vistas, Athens 360 is a rooftop spot that serves cocktails paired with panoramic views over Athens. IT