On the scene | POSTCARDS INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 51 From the city’s chaos comes an abundance of creativity; a reinvention among the relics of a great civilisation.
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Wild adventure, urban innovation and destination dining combine in the compact central european country of Slovenia, writes Carla Grossetti. Grass routes SLOVENIA Photography Jošt Gantar (Reško Lake); uzan Gabrijan (Ana Roš, Hiša Franko food); Dražen Štader/Produkcija Studio/www.slovenia.info (castle, cycling Ljubljana) A painterly approach The opening scene of a 2017 episode of the Netflix series Chef ’s Table features self-taught cook Ana Roš pouring a clear ginger broth over a plate of Soča trout. The camera then zooms out on a plate of peach, cucumber, puffed honey caramel and flower meringue that looks like it could have sprouted from a forest floor. Ana, a self-taught cook named Best Female Chef in the World in 2017, has put the Soča Valley and Slovenia on the culinary map thanks to her terroir-driven approach at two Michelin-starred restaurant Hiša Franko. “A painter understands colour and sees the world in colour. I understand flavour,” she says during a break in her busy schedule as guest chef at the 2023 Dark Mofo festival in Hobart, Tasmania. Ana has been tasked with crafting a four-course banquet for its Winter Feast in collaboration with Rodney Dunn and Stephen Peak of The Agrarian Kitchen. Hiša means ‘house’ and Franko was the name of Ana’s former father-in-law. Ana, a graduate of diplomacy and a one-time alpine skiing prodigy, inherited the restaurant along with her ex-partner Valter Kramar, whose parents owned the original restaurant near the Italian border. While Valter was the sommelier, Ana worked as the waitress until forced to step into the kitchen when their chef resigned. After long evenings of quiet research, hours of innovation and experimentation, Ana quickly gained international attention for her hyperlocal approach to sourcing ingredients. “The aim is for my food to express the seasons, the locality, my travels and femininity,” says Ana. Hiša Franko was ranked 31 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2023. “The ingredients used at Hiša Franko are 100 per cent local. It’s alpine cuisine with dishes informed by my travels,” she says. hisafranko.com Slow travel is made easy in Slovenia, one of the smallest countries in Europe. The northern corner of the former Yugoslavian country is bordered by Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the north-east and Croatia to the south. As well as being at the intersection of so many different cultures, the country spills from the alpine region to the Adriatic, making it one of the most biologically diverse countries in the world. The fact you don’t have to travel vast distances in Slovenia – its coastline is just 47 kilometres long – means you can enjoy a change of pace away from the crowds in neighbouring countries and have time and space enough to discover its many treasures. Slovenia is the first country on Earth to have been declared a Green Destination of the World in its entirety. More than half of the country is blanketed in forest and it’s this pristine environment that prompted the country’s tourism board to create its pioneering Green Scheme, which extends to everything from accommodation to tours, restaurants and regions. The sustainably minded nation has launched itineraries that nudge conscious travellers towards ‘green capitals’ that earned that status through a rigorous certification process. Kayak around its karst region, cycle the course of the Kolpa River waterway, safely observe wild bears in a hide built above the forest floor, bathe in the beauty of the Krokar virgin forest and visit plenty of castles and museums, knowing the tours you are taking tread softly on the Earth. There are also many pristine waterways, such as the River Soča and the wild Reško Lake in the Kočevje primeval forest, where you can enjoy the natural wonders with just a fraction of the crowds. slovenia.info A capital idea It’s not just the remote reaches of the country that provide opportunities for conscious travel in Slovenia. The European Commission has recognised the role that its capital, Ljubljana, plays in adapting to climate change and protecting biodiversity through its use of sustainable tourism solutions, digital innovation and urban design. Ljubljana has, to date, appeared eight times on the list of Green Destinations Top 100 Stories. The city has even gone so far as to digitise its landmarks to help further preserve its cultural artefacts. Conscious travellers can now visit the many masterpieces of 1920s architect Jože Plečnik from the armchair to see the vision that helped preserve Ljubljana’s green spaces for future generations. visitljubljana.com 54 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
Clockwise from top left: The Slovenia Green Wellness Route starts in Ljubljana; The stunning Soča River; Enjoy world-class cuisine at Hiša Franko; And stay the night at this former countryside inn; Follow a ribbon of road through the Slovenian Alps; Crossing the Soča River. OPPOSITE (from top left): Ljubljana Castle is east of the Old Town; Acclaimed chef Ana Roš; Explore wild Reško Lake. Three sustainable ways to see Slovenia New slovenia Green Wellness Route The Slovenian Tourist Board has launched a new Slovenia Green Wellness Route: a 16-day trail that loops in some of the country’s most diverse landscapes. The cycling tour starts in Ljubljana and connects with some of the country’s best spas and natural health resorts. The total cycling route is 680 kilometres, but you can carve off onto other paths that thread through the landscape. slovenia-green.si Get hooked on Soča River Rafting Although the pace might quicken a bit on a river-rafting trip down the Soča River, there are plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the steep canyon walls and thick alpine forests as you paddle through the turquoise waters. Keen fly fishers take note: the river is home to the largest trout in the world, salmo marmoratus, which can reach about 1.2 metres in length. raftingslovenia.com Take the path less travelled Kozjansko Regional Park is one of the oldest and largest pockets of protected parkland in Slovenia due to its biodiversity. Join pilgrims on the Podsreda Trail to experience this unique cultural landscape which includes a mixture of churches, rivers, streams, castles, legends and old orchards. Pencil in the annual Kozjansko Apple Festival held in the second week of October. kozjanski-park.si Three of the best eco-conscious stays Inner-urban eco hang Use the B&B Hotel Ljubljana Park in the centre of the Slovenian capital as your base to take a day trip to Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle, two of the country’s most iconic cultural attractions. The hotel, which offers easy access to the city centre and parks, houses its VIP guests on the roof: the hive of Carniolan Bees is part of the city’s inner-urban Bee Path. hotel-bb.com Make a splash in Bohinj Sunrose 7 recently added a natural biodynamic pool to its wellness offering in Bohinj, a green valley in the heart of the Julian Alps and Triglav National Park. Take a swim in the pool, embark on a fishing safari on the glacier-fed lake or go hiking and biking when the landscape is dressed in the russet reds and ambers of autumn from the boutique hotel, considered one of the country’s alpine jewels. sunrose7.com Fall into the pages of a fairy tale Hiša Franko is a former countryside inn that chef Ana Roš has transformed into a unique, world-renowned restaurant. The two Michelinstarred restaurant with rooms is surrounded by green pastures and natural pools and is worth building an itinerary around. World-famous chef Ana Roš flexes her clout in the kitchen with locally sourced ingredients, drawing adventurous epicureans to Slovenia from all around the world. hisafranko.com IT Conscious travel | POSTCARDS
Perfect for exploring on foot, o– tautahi Christchurch is a charming combination of heritage, art, nature and happening urban vibes. While the largest city in New Zealand’s south island still bears the visible scars of the devastating 2011 earthquake, Christine Aldred finds a vibrant, creative place back on its feet and ready to play. hours in C H R I S TC H U R C H
>> DAY ONE 8AM: Haere ma – welcome to Ōtautahi Christchurch. Start your day with a hearty breakfast at The George, a convivial boutique hotel and member of the exclusive Small Luxury Hotels group. Chug that shot of revitalising juice: there’s a big day ahead. 9AM: Just 100 metres down the road, hop on (and off ) one of the restored heritage tramcars of Christchurch Trams for an informative zip around town. With 18 stops taking in the key features of the city accompanied by the driver’s flow of insights, it’s the perfect way to get a quick lay of the land and explore wherever takes your fancy. Kids ride free. 11AM: It may feel at first as though you’ve arrived in Oxford, England, but the beautiful Gothic Revival buildings that were once the university grounds of Canterbury College now form The Arts Centre Te Matatiki Toi Ora, a thriving hub encompassing an entire block. First acquired as land in 1873, it’s now bursting with boutiques, galleries, museums, artisan eateries, a cinema and fabulously furbished hotel. The museum upstairs explains the complexities of the post-quake restorations and lauds the craftsmanship involved. 12.30PM: Find fresh produce and international flavours to sate any appetite at the buzzing Riverside Market, an everyday enclosed farmers’ market oozing with culinary delights. The choices are endless, from souvlaki to organic salads, ramen and cured salami. Pick up a travellers’ cheese box with South Island specialties, sample delicious local gins or discover 24 craft beers at Canterbury Brewers Collective. 2PM: Indulge with a sumptuous chocolate lovingly created by award-winning She Universe chocolaterie in the laneway outside; all organic, Fairtrade and even gluten-free. If you have room, ingest more cacao beans in the form of molten hot chocolate or grab supplies for DIY treats at home. 2.30PM: Linger in the lanes for some retail therapy: design collective Shopology boasts locally made fashion and merino knits; The Company Shed caters for gardeners; Beehive Collective has gifts and art; and Mievel’s Store houses a world of hats and accessories. 4.30PM: Street art began to pop up in the spaces provided by downed or damaged buildings after the earthquake destroyed much of the city. And these massive canvases were the first signs of a city redefining itself. Join non-profit Watch This Space for an urban art tour exploring prolific street art, murals and graffiti, learn about their creators and how Christchurch emerged as a globally recognised street art destination. Group and private tours are available by appointment. 7PM: In the south quad of the Arts Centre, the atmospheric Cellar Door wine bar showcases some of New Zealand’s best drops. The amusingly named wine flights, such as the Let’s Get Fizzical, are the perfect way to navigate the tantalising selection of local and international varieties. It’s not just drinks: the memorable food ranges from nibbles to hearty meals made for sharing with a focus on local Canterbury region produce, including a choice of nearly 20 cheeses. DAY TWO 8AM: Take in some fresh air with a stroll through Hagley Park, a huge designated green space located just across from your digs. Top it off with the mature trees and everchanging floral displays at the Christchurch Botanic Gardens, 150 years in the making, with a decided nod to English heritage. Take a peek at the Tudor-style curator’s cottage and the veggie gardens behind. 9AM: Feel the warm manaakitanga (hospitality) and cultural embrace of Riwai Grace from Āmiki Tours during an enlightening ‘city meander’ – a fascinating introduction into Māori culture, language and places of significance around the city, providing insights you’d otherwise miss. Food tours are also available for a guided taste test of the city. CLOCKWISE FROM top LEFT: Get the lay of the land onboard a heritage tram; Taste local drops at Cellar Door wine bar; Stay at The George; And dine there too. OPPOSITE (clockwise from top): Al fresco dining on buzzy New Regent Street; Explore the city’s vibrant street art with Watch This Space walking tours; Feast on modern Asian dishes at King of Snake. PHOTOGRAPHY NANCY ZHOU (NEW REGENT STREET); AARON LEE PHOTOGRAPHY (KING OF SNAKE); PETRA MINGNEAU (WATCH THIS SPACE TOUR, CELLAR DOOR); PAM CARMICHAEL (TRAM); STEPHEN GOODENOUGH PHOTOGRAPHER (THE GEORGE SUITE) Cities | POSTCARDS INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 59
60 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 11.30AM: Wind back time with some peaceful punting on the o¯ tākaro/avon RIVER in a flat-bottomed boat and imagine you’re heading for a Victorian-era picnic, your personal punter donned in classic blazer and boater guiding you down the river. Rides leave from the historic, gaily striped Antigua Boat Sheds established in 1882. Combine your tickets if you’re taking a tram ride as they are delivered by the same provider. 1PM: The string of restaurants along The (completely rebuilt) Terrace provides lots of eating options. King of Snake offers modern Asian-inspired dining. You could also take a lunchtime cocktail with delicious bites at Monarch Bar on the first floor. Hit the deck for views over the mall and river. 3PM: It’s not just on the streets where you can find the city’s art. Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna O Waiwhetū, a striking glass-fronted building, houses an expansive collection from masters to contemporary works. Not far away at Ravenscar House, a contemporary museum gallery in a home, you can view one of New Zealand’s most significant art collections, donated by an art-loving couple who wanted to share their collection in a modern domestic setting. 5PM: For a touch of San Francisco, head to the colourful and quirky pedestrian mall of New Regent Street with its string of painted Spanish Mission-style buildings. Sweeten your afternoon with one of the playful choices at Rollickin Gelato, home of gelato, sorbet and desserts made from organic milk and fresh fruit, which come in a multitude of innovative flavours and with a dollop of humour. Take a selfie with the gorilla on the bench outside if you must. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Arts Centre Te Matatiki Toi Ora is a bustling cultural hub; Punting on the Ōtākaro/Avon River; Delve into Māori culture with Āmiki Tours; Pay a visit to Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū. 7.30PM: There’s no need to venture out when your hotel offers in-house fine dining. Relaxed but elegant with a choice of three dining spaces, 50 Bistro offers perfectly prepared classics with a modern twist. Snuggle up afterwards in a cosy corner on a velvet lounge and hook into The George’s online reading resources to access thousands of magazines and papers, or a bedtime short story, or take a seat at the bar for a sneaky nightcap. 10PM: Party people can head out for drinking options. The whimsical Gin Gin bar decked out in lush velvets, pinks and greens boasts more than 100 varieties of this botanical tipple and playful cocktails, while up the road The Last Word ups the ante with 320 whiskies inside, along with classic cocktails, local wines, beers and snacks. That should make for a sound night’s sleep. IT POSTCARDS | Cities PHOTOGRAPHY NANCY ZHOU (DETAIL); CHRISTCHURCH NZ (PUNTING)
In partnership with Wonderful Indonesia BEYOND Dive headfirst into Indonesia’s nature, culture and cuisine in partnership with B A LI
While Bali needs no introduction, many Australian tourists explore no further than the flashing lights and Western comforts of this bustling province. But they’re missing out. In partnership with Wonderful Indonesia T hose tourists who explore no further than Bali are missing out on the full cultural, natural and culinary depths that Indonesia has to offer. From spotting the mighty Komodo dragon to spending a lazy day on naturally pink sand beaches to snorkelling through underwater worlds, these are the most incredible islands to hop around on your next getaway. BEST FOR SEA LIFE Casual snorkellers to professional divers will find an underwater wonderland in Indonesia. Recent conservation efforts around places like the GILI ISLANDS near Lombok mean there’s a huge variety of brightly coloured coral in all shapes and sizes. And where there’s coral, there are fish in absolute droves. Be sure to book a tour to the striking underwater statues off GILI MENO ISLAND by British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor. The artwork features 48 life-sized statues made from the casts of real people. It’s just as popular with schools of fish as it is with holiday-makers. For those wishing to stay close to shore, swim just out from the beach at GILI AIR, KANAWA, or KELOR and SIABA ISLANDS in KOMODO NATIONAL PARK, or spot sea turtles when snorkelling off the stunning pink sand cay TAKA MAKASSAR. While you’re there, follow guides out a little further to MANTA POINT, where manta rays are often found in large numbers. Speaking of pink sand beaches, KOMODO NATIONAL PARK has several stunning sandy spots, created when bright pink coral is naturally crushed and mixed with the sand. One of the most popular is Long Beach on PADAR ISLAND. TIMING IS EVERYTHING While even the most technically remote Indonesian islands are rarely void of travellers, a trip during the week (and earlier in the day) will almost guarantee you some time to yourself, allowing you to enjoy the beautiful vistas and warm waters without the crowds. E X P L O R E THE ISLANDS rinca island kanawa island kelor island taka makassar gili meno island WORDS KASSIA BYRNES PHOTOGRAPHY KASSIA BYRNES (SCULPTURE); TOURISM INDONESIA (KELOR ISLAND/WAE REBO/LOH BUAYA); NICKY RYAN (REMAINING)
In partnership with Wonderful Indonesia there’s a cruise option for every traveller, showcasing indonesian highlights both underwater and on land. Sitting on the open top level of the phinisi (a traditional Indonesian sailing vessel), synthetic grass beneath my bare feet and my body relaxing into one of the brightly coloured bean bags on deck, I wait with the rest of the cruise guests and deck crew. Any minute now, thousands of giant fruit bats will leave their mangrove home on Kalong Island for the night in search of dinner, making a giant black spotty cloud against the pink and orange sunset. “It’s the most beautiful thing in the world,” promised our cruise director, Adam. “You won’t understand until you see it.” It’s our final night of a three-day cruise around the uninhabited islands of Indonesia’s Komodo National Park. From the moment we arrived onboard Adam hasn’t led us astray, so I trust he’s not hyperbolising. Sure enough, at 6.15pm exactly, the first bats start erupting into the sky and it’s unexpectedly the most beautiful wildlife scene I’ve ever witnessed. THE BE ST WAY TO SEE I N DON E SI A Indonesia is a country made up of small islands. In fact, it’s the largest archipelago in the world to form a single state. With about 18,110 islands, the best way to explore is by water. The huge array of cruise options means there’s something to suit everyone, from casual swimmers to professional divers. Hire an entire phinisi for your group, book a private room on a liveaboard, or book a day trip to see the highlights. To really make the most of the unparalleled beauty and gorgeous sunsets, however, set aside at least two nights. Book well ahead of time, particularly in peak season from June to August, and aim for a midweek trip – it’s the best way to avoid large crowds. SEE NATURAL WONDERS Snorkel the colourful and bustling underwater world that Indonesia is famous for, and explore some of the best wildlife, views and beaches Komodo National Park has to offer. Over three days, we snorkelled with young sea turtles, endless schools of different fish species – from clown fish to baby swordfish – and countless other kinds of sealife around six different islands. The brightly coloured coral is also something to behold. We hiked to incredible bird’s-eye viewpoints on Padar and Kelor Islands. We relaxed on the naturally pink sand at Long Beach and Taka Makassar, strolled on white sand beaches and saw a black sand beach. Many have stalls selling food, drinks and trinkets. Most incredibly, we spotted a total of five Komodo dragons at Loh Buaya. And, of course, watched the bats of Kalong Island.
BEST FOR CULTURE FLORES ISLAND is home to some bucket list experiences close to the heart of Indonesian traditions, culture and nature. Follow your guide along the monkey-littered forest trail to the caves at BATU CERMIN; discovered in 1951, they’re believed to have once been underwater. Today, coral and even a turtle fossil can be seen clumped into the roof of the main cave. Also expect to spot a couple of adorably tiny bats. For modern-day food culture, spend the night at LABUAN BAJO, then take a leisurely walk up the road to the heart of local coffee culture (be sure to try local Yellow Cattura blend). At night, head down to the wharf where vendors sell the day’s seafood catch at the famous fish market – you’ll find everything from live lobster to bright green parrot fish. WAE REBO VILLAGE in the mountains, a six-hour drive from Labuan Bajo, is harder to get to – it also requires a three-hour hike to reach. But those who rise to the challenge will be rewarded with a homestay in traditional cone-shaped houses made of lontar thatch that are still used by the small local community. For an easier-to-reach visit to a traditional village with a different way of life, stop in at Sade Village on Lombok Island. BEST FOR WILDLIFE Growing up to three metres long, and remaining as agile in water and while climbing trees as they are on land, no creature can strike fear and reverence in hearts more than the mighty Komodo dragon. Despite their size and fearsome reputation, there are several places around KOMODO NATIONAL PARK to get up close to these modern-day dinosaurs. While KOMODO ISLAND is the most famous (and a good option for almost guaranteed sightings) the lesser-known LOH BUAYA on RINCA ISLAND offers an equally unforgettable experience. Follow rangers along a boardwalk as they share facts about the Komodo, then – protected by a ranger carrying nothing but a long, forked wooden stick – leave the safety of the boardwalk to enter the habitat of the giant lizards. Arriving earlier in the day will usually have you stopping to watch these massive reptiles from mere metres away. Another wildlife phenomenon that can’t be missed is the nightly migration of thousands of bats. Calling the mangroves known as KALONG (meaning ‘bat’) ISLAND home, these creatures fill the sunset while on the hunt for dinner. WHAT’S FOR DINNER? Indonesian street food is easy to find and incredibly delicious. Pick a good one by going where the locals are lining up. loh buaya kalong island labuan bajo labuan bajo labuan bajo wae rebo village
FOR THE BEST VIEWS It’s impossible to find a bad view in Indonesia, but some lookouts simply can’t be missed. Join locals on the popular walk up to the top of Bukit Merese Hill, sitting above Tanjung Aan Beach on LOMBOK ISLAND. Crowds flock here just before sunset, but there’s plenty of room for everyone to watch as the sky turns pink – and barely a tourist to be found. PADAR ISLAND in Komodo National Park is also home to one of the most iconic lookouts for 360-degree views of the surrounding islands. Skirt around the deer that call this island home and head up a short but steep set of stone steps. As you reach the top the steps give way to dirt, but you won’t even notice as you focus on the unique outline of the very lush green Padar and the pink, white and black sand beaches reaching out before you. Also in Komodo National Park, KELOR ISLAND is much smaller than Padar, but it packs quite a punch when you take the short hike to its peak. It’s steep and unpaved, so it’s best for higher fitness levels. For something a bit different, head inland on FLORES ISLAND to see the unique LINGKO SPIDER WEB RICE FIELDS. While seeing rice fields in Indonesia isn’t unusual, this one has been planted in a formation that, when seen from the elevated viewing point, mimics the pattern of a spider web. BEST FOR NIGHTLIFE KUTA is a natural place to start looking for the clubs, beach bars and reggae clubs Lombok Island is famous for. But just half an hour from Lombok’s Teluk Nara port on a speedboat will get you to the bustling GILI TRAWANGAN ISLAND. Forget the car – they’re not allowed here – and instead be prepared to use your own two feet. Hire a pushbike (which most hotels share with guests for free) or flag down a cidomo (horse and cart). While there’s plenty of opportunity to have a relaxing wellness escape, this is known as a party island for a reason. Hugely popular with the European crowd, expect foam parties, high-end bars, casual beach bars and cuisines from around the world. Afterwards, stumble back to your hotel, with options ranging from basic to luxury stays. The party can be found on the island’s east side, so those looking for peaceful respite should head west. GETTING AROUND Hiring a private tour guide can make getting around remote locations easier. It also means they can share local tips, translate and personalise an itinerary for you. gili trawangan island gili trawangan island padar island flores island pink beach WORDS KASSIA BYRNES PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED (PADAR ISLAND/FLORES ISLAND/PINK BEACH/LABUAN BAJO); NICKY RYAN (REMAINING)
In partnership with Wonderful Indonesia I watch in awe as a middle-aged woman sits on the floor of her wooden platform, deftly weaving hand-dyed threads of cotton grown in the village through her loom. It slowly transforms into yet another intricate fabric to be added to the collection hanging on display around her. Just moments before I’d tried to follow her lead, but my pace was slow and clumsy. Even with her speed, these fabrics can take a minimum of one month to create and up to three months for especially tricky patterns. It’s an essential skill for women to learn in Sade Village, a 700-person-strong community of Sasak people on Lombok Island who still maintain their traditions. Only when they master the skill of weaving are they allowed to marry. Once she’s mastered weaving, a woman must be on the lookout for kidnapping: a man has to successfully kidnap his bride for a night before he can marry her and once he’s successful he can’t be refused. I ask our guide, Amak, if kidnappings are planned these days. “Sometimes,” he replies. It’s not only marriage that remains traditional. As we wander along dirt paths between low buildings with thatched roofs, Amak explains that while new houses are built with cement, they’re shaped with traditional building materials: dirt and fresh buffalo dung. Stooping low at the short doorway of one of the oldest homes in the village – designed that way to force visitors to bow upon entry as a sign of respect – I immediately notice the deep earthy smell of buffalo dung. The buffalo is a sacred animal, and as well as maintaining the house structure, the dung is used to repel insects and bad spirits. The house is kept dark while a woman takes her afternoon nap on the reed floor mats used as beds. Darker still is the room on the second floor, where the kitchen and children’s sleeping mats reside. Electricity runs through the village, but on religious days (Sasak tradition is a blend of Islam, Hindu and Animism) only traditional lighting methods can be used: rice mixed with coconut oil in lanterns made of large, old seashells. Outside, a pot of local coffee waits for us. It’s pan-roasted and mixed with rice, then pounded by hand. It doubles as breakfast, as the rice makes it filling. The result is strong, bitter and crunchy. It’s a buzz – and a memory I’ll keep long after I leave. THE DETAILS • Sade Village is a 1.5-hour drive from Lombok’s capital, Mataram, or just 15 minutes from popular Mandalika. • Enter with a voluntary donation or pay 20,000–50,000 IDR ($2-$5) for a local guide. Not all guides speak English, so bring a private tour guide to translate (it’s worth it). • Purchase handcrafted fabrics and bracelets from the artisans for low prices. It’s around 100,000 IDR ($10) for one piece, or 10,000 IDR ($1) for three cotton bracelets. Plan your own wonderful journey through Indonesia at indonesia.travel a village visit gives a fascinating look at a traditional way of life. WORDS KASSIA BYRNES PHOTOGRAPHY NICKY RYAN A T R I P BACK IN TIME
WITH ITS PLACE FIRMLY ROOTED IN THE HISTORY OF ITALIAN WINEMAKING, NOT TO MENTION ITS CAPTIVATING LANDSCAPES, CULINARY CLOUT AND CULTURAL CACHET, TUSCANY CONTINUES TO ALLURE. CASSANDRA CHARLICK ROAD TRIPS THIS TIMELESS REGION. Clockwise from above: Butcher shop Antica Macelleria Falorni, where chef Dario Cecchini offers relaxed dining; The Tuscan countryside. opposite (clockwise from left): Osteria Nuvoli is one of Florence’s most historic osterias; The city is known as the Cradle of the Renaissance; Dining in the medieval town of San Gimignano; There is no shortage of vineyards and cellar doors. Tr a v e r s i n g Tosc ana >> INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 69 While Tuscany is on most people’s bucket list, for wine travellers, it holds a special place in the cradle of Italian wine history and vinous culture. Yes, there are rolling hillsides, golden fields flecked with cyclical haybales and nodding swathes of sunflowers, but the region is also home to some of the world’s greatest wines. Of course, this part of Italia also delivers plenty of culinary oomph and no shortage of jaw-dropping vistas and architecture. It is, however, not a small vicinity to get around, and it’s impossible to tick off every ‘must-do’ in one trip unless you are lucky enough to have weeks on end. Covering 23,000 square kilometres with a varied landscape from the Apennine Mountains down to gently sloping hills (nearly two-thirds of Tuscany is hills) and out to the Ligurian Sea, there is as much variation in the wine and food as there is adventure on offer. The rural terrain is peppered with towns and cities, so a car is essential to get from A to B once you step outside Florence. Within the hallowed walls of the Cradle of the Renaissance, though, it would be madness to drive, so don’t book that car until your departure. Florence is an immensely walkable city, no matter where you choose to rest your head for the evening. Be sure to pre-book for big-ticket sights such as the Uffizi Gallery and Accademia Gallery, and arrive early at the Duomo Tuscany | POSTCARDS to avoid crowds and long lines in the summer heat. Speaking of the Duomo, be sure to pop into Osteria Nuvoli, which sits on a little side street parallel to the piazza. One of the city’s most historic osterias, you’ll find more examples of traditional eateries via the Associazione Esercizi Storici Fiorentini (The Association of Historic, Traditional and Typical Shops in Florence), which celebrates 60 historic shops and buildings founded by Florentine artisans and merchants. Pull up a little wooden wine stool out the front and watch the world go by before meandering downstairs for a rowdy lunch at the long wooden tables. The food is rustic and cheap, the room is cosy and the bustling atmosphere will give you reason to stay a little longer and enjoy a few different wines by the glass. Florence is Tuscany’s place to bar-hop, and it’s the ideal way to sample as many regional wines and snacks as possible. Take a sunset stroll over the golden-hued Ponte Vecchio and kick off an evening at Le Volpi e l’Uva, a snug wine bar with courtyard and bar seating, plus a cracking selection of Italian wines by the glass, many from small producers. The bar snacks are concise yet delicious – there’s no disappointment with charcuterie and cheeses. Not sure what to order? Ask the team behind the bar, where you’ll receive passionate suggestions PHOTOGRAPHY without a hint of pretentiousness. CASSANDRA CHARLICK
PHOTOGRAPHY CASSANDRA CHARLICK From here, it’s a stroll to Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina, an elegant wine bar overlooking the Palazzo Pitti with a fantastic selection of Tuscan wines and a well-crafted menu. Also nearby and a little further along the river Arno is Il Santino. Stopping in at this vibrant hole-in-the-wall for antipasto and a few glasses of wine from the natural wine list is a must. If you can nab a stool or chair out the front, settle in for some people watching. Keep an eye out for the Buchette del vino wine windows peppered around the streets nearby. The small, street-facing windows have been used for hundreds of years to sell wine. During the plague of 1630, this was especially true, and in more recent years it was a case of history repeating itself. If you don’t have access to a car, you can stretch out to the nearby wine regions with one of the many wine tours that operate from the city centre. However, it pays to diligently select a tour suited to your needs and wine education level. Grape Tours provides detailed and small group or private tours led by wine professionals who take you several steps deeper than an average wine tour. From Florence, it’s an hour-long drive to the breathtaking towers of San Gimignano; the drive winding through parts of the Chianti and Chianti Classico wine regions with countless cellar doors to explore. While the Chianti DOCG might get a bad rap after the rapid growth of plantings and questionable quality of the 1970s, many great examples exist, especially in the Chianti Rufina and Colli Senesi subregions. Be sure to book tastings and lunchtime stops in advance wherever possible, as the entire world is returning to Tuscany, and you’ll need to ensure there’s a table waiting for you at some of the best-loved spots. The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico recently launched a new wine experience card and app system, which can help with the planning and execution of cellar door visits. There is no shortage of great agriturismo (farm stay) bases to explore the region from, but the team at Il Segreto di Pietrafitta has nailed their Tuscan offering for adults only. Opt for half-board, as the breakfast table is just as inviting as the dinner menu. Homemade tortas, pastries and fresh fruits will keep you going until lunchtime, when it’s time to jump on an e-bike into the piazza of San Gimignano for some of Italy’s highest-awarded gelato at Gelateria Dondoli. When the heat of the Tuscan sun has you reaching for a glass of refreshing white, order a glass of the local varietal: Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Often overlooked outside the locality, it’s a vital grape variety in Italian viticultural history and was the first official DOCG – the highest POSTCARDS | Tuscany clockwise from Left: Il Segreto di Pietrafitta is a cosy agriturismo base nestled in the Tuscan hills; Dine in the leafy courtyard of family-run Ristorante La Bottega Di Volpaia; A Tuscany road trip is complete with golden fields of sunflowers. 70 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM >>
72 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM POSTCARDS | Tuscany A Traveller’s Checklist GETTING THERE Travel to Florence via train from Rome (around an hour and a half), then hire a car to explore Tuscany. STAYING THERE Il Segreto di Pietrafitta is a cosy adults-only stay in San Gimignano. Or make historic winery Conti costanti near medieval Montalcino your base. ilsegretodipietrafitta.com; collealmatrichese.it Clockwise from above: Bagni San Filippo hot springs; A bucolic setting with views of the Chianti hills at Il Segreto di Pietrafitta; Simple and fresh handmade pasta at Il Segreto di Pietrafitta. quality classification for a bottle of Italian wine. Fresh and fruity, with a pleasant mineral drive and plenty of citrus notes, it’s a perfect pairing for summer vegetables laced with pecorino. Alternatively, drive to the nearby town of Volpaia for a tasting and winery tour through the gravity-fed winery in the ancient cellars of the castle. Don’t miss lunch at the restaurant next door, Ristorante La Bottega Di Volpaia, where the second-generation family-run restaurant is packed with locals celebrating Sunday lunch. Sangiovese is non-negotiable. Continuing a road trip eastward, there is no shortage of cellar doors to stop by as the winding roads dart up and around undulating vineyards. For lunch, there are two towns to make meat lovers’ dreams come true – and they are just a stone’s throw away from each other. Dario Cecchini rose to global fame after starring on Netflix’s Chef ’s Table, and a trip to his Antica Macelleria Cecchini in Panzano is memorable. Reservations are essential; however, if you miss out, drive 15 minutes north to Greve, where Antica Macelleria Falorni offers a relaxed dine-in opportunity at the butcher shop run by the Falorni family since 1806. Our final destination on this Tuscan adventure is Montalcino, though it would be easy to continue for days through Siena, Montepulciano, Cortona and so on. A medieval walled hillside town in the Val d’Orcia, Montalcino’s claim to fame is thanks to the production of outstanding Brunello di Montalcino, recognised as one of Italy’s most exceptional wines. Stay among the vines at one of the iconic producers, Conti Costanti, and you’ll dream about these stunning wines day and night. The town is all about Brunello, and you can taste plenty of different producers and back vintages at the enotecas and wine stores. Visit the Enoteca la Fortezza di Montalcino, nestled right in the heart of the 14th-century fortress, and pop down the hill to La Sosta for local specialities such as pici al ragù (Tuscan ragù pasta) and homemade chicken liver pâté. The nearby village of Sant’Angelo in Colle is also a great lunchtime destination; head to Trattoria il Pozzo and order a classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine-style steak, produced from the beautiful white Italian Chianina cattle). If you’re keen to burn off some of those calories, time your visit to coincide with the Eroica Montalcino, an invigorating yet challenging vintage road bike race held in May. There is plenty to explore in the town’s surroundings, including some of Tuscany’s most renowned scenery and the natural springs of Bagni San Filippo. These hot springs are well worth the journey and are lesser known than the Terme di Saturnia outside Rome. After a two-week road trip through Toscana, I still have a long list unchecked. So take heed: one visit to Tuscany is never enough. IT PHOTOGRAPHY CASSANDRA CHARLICK
Explore the world’s wonders With the world beckoning once more, we can’t wait to discover the wonders beyond our borders. But when it comes to DIY itineraries that skip-hop across the globe, things can get a little tricky. Helpfully, RoundAbout Travel is here to give you a helping hand. Since 2008, RoundAbout Travel has been simplifying round-the-world fares with its easy-to-use online platform and knowledge-based customer service. As the top rated travel agents in Australia, the team members will find the best value fare to ensure your time spent en route is as enjoyable as your hours spent rollerblading in Venice Beach or admiring art in Vienna. WHAT THEY DO It doesn’t matter how dispersed your desired destinations are, as the 24 highly experienced RoundAbout Travel consultants are well-versed in compiling complex multi-continental fares that can’t be found on the internet. They arrange the best possible fully customised itineraries that account for everything, from price to travel time and experience. Jump online, add your preferred itinerary stops into the ‘Plan My Trip’ form and discover the first step towards a completely customised escape route. Apart from saving yourself hours of research, the best part of outsourcing to RoundAbout Travel is knowing that the planning is in safe hands. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Plan your round-the-world trip to the USA; And the Canadian Rockies; Cross Tuscany off your bucket list; Join an African safari; Travel in comfort and style. Booking multi-continental escapes has never been easier — and it’s all thanks to the experts at RoundAbout Travel, who offer exceptional value with endless possibilities. Discover more at roundabouttravel.com.au WHO THEY FLY WITH It’s not simply a matter of arriving, but rather, arriving in style and comfort. For that reason, RoundAbout Travel partners with a number of the best airlines, delivering not only the most competitive prices but also the most enjoyable experiences, better connections and flexible, mixed-class fares. Whether you’re flying economy, premium economy, business or first class, RoundAbout Travel agents will compile a journey that makes sense for your trip and your budget. They also help travellers make the most of their airline loyalty points and leverage sale periods to take advantage of the very best round-the-world fares. WHERE THEY GO With deals that ensure a wide variety of route options and flexibility, the question is where won’t RoundAbout Travel itineraries take you? Covering Australia, Asia, North America, Europe, Africa, the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent, your RoundAbout Travel agent can mix and match airlines and class fares to find the best combinations to cater to any wanderlust wish list. Leaving flights in the hands of the professionals erases the most stressful part of planning a trip, allowing you to focus on the more exciting details. In partnership with Complex Travel Group WORDS LARA PICONE PHOTOGRAPHY WILL SHIRLEY (AFRICA); DANIJELA PRIJOVIC (TRAVELLER)
The Datai Langkawi has garnered a loyal army of repeat guests for its approach to eco-conscious luxury. and the standardsetting resort is, writes Nikki Wallman, now positioning itself for an ambitious new era of regenerative travel. Life lessons 74 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
Nestled in the fever-dream density of a 10-million-yearold rainforest on Malaysia’s Langkawi archipelago, The Datai Langkawi may be one of the most beautiful holiday spots you’ll ever visit. Grand yet totally immersive, the timeless resort – designed by late Australian architect Kerry Hill and sensitively refreshed in recent years – celebrates its 30th anniversary in 2023, while planting the seeds of an even more sustainable, lifeaffirming future. Langkawi was declared a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2007 for its astounding ecological and biological diversity; it is, undoubtedly, a natural wonder. The Datai is a wonder, too: for its nuanced interweaving of our human desire to marvel at this paradise, with the passion and dedication to protect it at the same time. Perhaps the reason we travel to places like this is not to find ourselves, but to be reminded of why we should care about things greater than us. These are just a few of the lessons I took home with me. Good for the planet doesn’t mean deprivation for you Indulgence feels better, tastes better, lives longer in the memory when it’s calibrated with its natural surroundings, and The Datai Langkawi lives and breathes this philosophy. Its abundant, fragrant permaculture garden supplies the restaurants with just-picked delights: from Thai basil to turmeric; pomegranate to peppercorns. You can eat for days without repeating an experience (or a signature cocktail – don’t miss the sultry Kesom Boi): from jumbo tiger prawns at the Beach Club to the (literally) elevated Pavilion serving Thai cuisine amid the tree canopy, or the exotic Gulai House, home to a soul-warming, heavenly spiced traditional beef rendang. The annual Chef Series features a stellar roster of visiting chefs. My stay coincides with Malaysian-born Mano Thevar, of his eponymous two Michelin-starred Singapore restaurant. His indulgent yet playful degustation (king crab pepper rasam is a highlight) draws from The Datai’s garden, matched with wines from the award-winning cellar. >> The Datai Langkawi | POSTCARDS CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: A breezy onebedroom Beach Villa; One of the resident dusky leaf monkeys; A Rainforest Pool Villa that is right in the thick of it. OPPOSITE (from top): Try the kampungstyle Gulai House for dinner; The Datai Langkawi overlooks the Andaman Sea.
>> PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC MARTIN (THE PAVILION) CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Datai Langkawi is surrounded by beauty; The light-filled living room in a one-bedroom Beach Villa; Experience the award-winning Pavilion restaurant at The Datai Langkawi. Meanwhile, guest wellness practitioners complement the soothing stream-side spa offering, with its Malay wellness therapies using plants, flowers and herbs from the rainforest. Look beyond the obvious From the Avatar-like beauty of the rainforest to the colour-saturated views of the island-spined horizon from the open-air bar, it’s hard to know where to look next. I say look everywhere. Look closer, too. Pacing the half-moon yawn of Datai Bay, I see intricate ‘artworks’ resembling thousands of strands of tiny pearls at my feet. They’re the work of sand bubbler crabs, whose filter-feeding technique helps keep the sand squeaky clean. Traipsing the resort’s flower-dotted butterfly walk, a ‘petal’ twitching in the sea breeze suddenly flutters away, the buttercup-yellow butterfly swooping upwards to the canopy. A rustling clump of leaves outside my Rainforest Villa suddenly sprouts a tail, revealing a dusky leaf monkey nestled within. I feel like a treasure-hunting child. Strolling the dense rainforest, I ‘soak in the morning dew’– a poetic way of describing forest bathing, part of the resort’s Mandi Embun wellness ritual (among other forest-bathing benefits, phytoncides released by trees have been shown to increase immunity). Consultant naturalist for The Datai Langkawi (and chief advisor for The Datai Pledge) Irshad Mobarak, eyes twinkling, directs my gaze as we walk. Look down: soil churned by wild boars, ready to receive seeds dropped by birds and monkeys. Look up: great slaty woodpeckers, hammering away. Look there: grey-bellied squirrels chasing a “receptive female”. Life, life everywhere. The best naturalists I’ve met are also part-philosopher, yearning to understand our place within the universe. Mobarak – a banker in a long-ago life – speaks of symbiotic relationships: of mutualism (all involved benefit), commensalism (one party benefits, the other isn’t harmed) and parasitism (one party benefits while the other is harmed). It’s not a leap to apply this to our impacts on our natural world and each other. 76 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM POSTCARDS | The Datai Langkawi
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POSTCARDS | The Datai Langkawi A Traveller’s Checklist GETTING THERE MALAYSIA AIRLINES flies to Langkawi via Kuala Lumpur. malaysiaairlines.com EATING THERE Don’t miss the daily curry specials for breakfast or the signature rendang tulang rusuk at THE GULAI HOUSE (or the cooking classes, where you can steal some secrets to take back home). PLAYING THERE Discovery and serenity are the key words here. THE MALAY WELLNESS JOURNEY is a deep foray into nature-induced bliss. And try KAYAKING through mangroves with a learned Datai naturalist as your guide. thedatai.com; thedataipledge.org People matter The Datai Pledge is an ambitious, detailed, thoughtfully executed commitment to protect Langkawi’s local communities alongside its increasingly fragile biodiversity. The Datai partners with NGOs and social enterprises across wildlife and marine conservation, community and youth initiatives (including an eco-schools program), while continually improving its own environmental practices. It’s a brilliant example of regenerative travel – both protecting and bolstering the places we holiday in and the people who live there (think mutualism versus parasitism). I select a sweet, batik-covered stuffed dugong for my son from the gift shop, hand-stitched by local women who, along with not-for-profit marine conservation organisation MareCet, benefit from my purchase. The Atelier next door showcases local artisans and sales of stunning photography on display around the resort support the Pledge. The Datai also invests in small operators, such as the local chicken farmer who supplies the resort with chooks who feast on organic waste from its restaurants. Details matter Through meaningful, measured steps, The Datai is becoming a force for good. Like the resort’s water purification and glass-bottling operation, which produced 102,079 reusable glass bottles of still water in-house in 2022. And the native tree nursery, where 3800 seedlings of 16 different species were cultivated last year and more than 2500 saplings planted in the rainforest. Like how the first turtles in 10 years were observed landing in Datai Bay in 2021, following measures to encourage nesting. And the steadfast commitment to achieving zero waste to landfill. Touring the beehive-busy back-of-house, I see waste separated for composting, recycling or ‘The Asher’, an incinerator that turns plastic and solid waste to ash. In 2022, 365,642 kilograms of waste was saved from landfill. Results matter. Accountability matters. Progress matters. The Datai is beautiful, yes. But more than that: The Datai matters. IT CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Embark on the restorative Malay Wellness Journey; Book into The Beach Club & Bar for dinner overlooking the Andaman Sea; The Lab hosts workshop activities and showcases products from The Datai’s sustainable initiatives. 78 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
Find white sandy beaches, poolside cocktails and an array of activities on beautiful TOKORIKI ISLANd, the perfect spot for your next tropical holiday. select rooms) before enjoying your rainforest-style shower. Family-friendly rooms boast easy access to the resort’s infinity pool and kids club. DIVE INTO ADVENTURE The islands offer endless hidden beaches and sandbanks; take a jet ski cruise, go sailing or get out the fishing rods. Families of all ages will love teeing up for a round of mini golf, jumping on the tennis courts, stargazing from the island’s helipad or snorkelling off the island’s vibrant tropical reefs. Experience bi-weekly Fijian Nights with a welcoming kava ceremony, traditional Fijian Meke dancing and an authentic ‘Fijian Lovo’ buffet feast. It’s also the ideal stay for immersive cultural experiences, including excursions to the neighbouring island’s village. As the sun sets, prepare for dinner at Tokoriki Coco Palms, which offers delicious and authentic Fijian Your island home awaits in the idyllic Mamanuca Islands of Fiji, home to warm turquoise waters, biodiverse coral reefs and white sand beaches just made for relaxation. Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island Fiji is a favourite luxury escape for families and travellers of all ages seeking a tropical oasis. And paradise doesn’t have to mean remote, as Tokoriki Island is just a short cruise from Port Denarau, or you can arrive in style by private heli charter – the choice is yours. ABOUT THE RESORT Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island Fiji is exclusive in every sense of the word, with 101 rooms set on a private island within the Mamanuca Islands. From the moment you arrive, you’ll feel a warm island welcome; take in the mild sea breezes and settle into the island lifestyle with a poolside cocktail, or unwind with a warm seashell massage at Tokoriki Retreat Spa. EXPERIENCE FIJIAN HOSPITALITY Adult-only premium rooms – with stunning ocean or island garden views – are designed to bring the beauty of the island into your private retreat. Step out onto your furnished patio or dip into your private plunge pool (available in CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Take a dip in the infinity pool; Linger over sunset drinks; The stunning island resort and beachside villas; Enjoy dinner with a view; Start your day with a yoga session. WORDS KATIE DUNDAS Start planning at marriott.com/en/ destinations/fiji.mi Private island living in Fiji dining alongside traditional singing, dancing and entertainment. DREAM OF FIJI A LITTLE LONGER Your island escape doesn’t need to end yet. The luxury resorts of Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort, Sheraton Denarau Villas and Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay are ready to welcome you too, extending your dream Fijian holiday for a few more nights. In partnership with Marriot International Fiji Resorts
Take off to Churchill, the polar bear capital of the world, where a multitude of exclusive experiences – each one designed to make the most of seeing these wild animals in their natural habitat – make up the bulk of this small group tour (there’s a maximum of 20 guests). Traverse the Arctic wilderness in search of local wildlife with a guided two-day private Tundra Buggy adventure available only to Ultimate Journeys guests, and enjoy the thrill (plus the spray of snow) of a dog sled ride. Keen to immerse yourself in local folklore and history? The tour starts in Winnipeg with the award-winning Journey to Churchill exhibit at Assiniboine Park Conservancy, followed by a private dinner at Aurora Borealis Theatre, before taking off to Churchill the next morning.The itinerary also includes an evening with a local trapper, as well as an exclusive cocktail reception in the underwater viewing tunnels in Gateway to the Arctic, where seals and polar bears frolic overhead. Trip details • 5 nights in 3–4.5-star rooms • Breakfast daily, 4 lunches and 5 dinners, plus welcome canapés and drinks • Return charter fl ights from Winnipeg to Churchill • Private guided tours, plus exclusive cocktail reception and welcome dinner • Airport transfers From $12,869* per person twin share Ultimate Ultimate WORLD POLAR BEAR DISCOVERY JOURNEYS There are regular holidays, then there are bespoke journeys fi lled with oncein-a-lifetime experiences. Expertly curated for the discerning traveller, Ultimate Journeys by Viva Holidays invites you to consider the latter, each tour designed with exclusive access and one-touch-booking in mind. *Conditions apply.3ULFHVDUHLQ$8'DQGFRUUHFWDVDW$XJEXWPD\ŴXFWXDWHGXHWRVXUFKDUJHVIHHVWD[HVRUFXUUHQF\H[FKDQJH$PLQLPXPQXPEHURISDVVHQJHUVUHTXLUHGIRUWRXUVWRRSHUDWH A)RUERRNLQJFRQGLWLRQVSOHDVHUHIHUWRLQGLYLGXDOSDFNDJHWHUPVfflYLYDKROLGD\VFRPDX by NEW YEAR’S EVE ON SYDNEY HARBOUR YOUR 3 DAY/2 NIGHT EXPERIENCE INCLUDES: • 2 nights at Crowne Plaza Darling Harbour , in a Standard Room • Full breakfast daily • Exclusive New Year’s Eve pre-cruise Cocktail Party • Exclusive New Year’s Eve Dinner Cruise on board Spirit of Migloo including a welcome cocktail, 3 course dinner, a selection of premium wines, beer and soft drinks+ • Onboard DJ • See the spectacular fireworks display from a premium vantage point on Sydney Harbour • Midnight canapés 2 nights from $2,599*per person Departs: 31 December 2024 twin share NEW YEAR’S EVE 2024
An International Traveller Promotion Santa has been visiting your home for decades, and the time has come to travel to Finnish Lapland to repay the favour in a manner to delight every member of the family. Ultimate Journeys has the ‘best Christmas memories ever’ itinerary which includes tours for couples and families and incorporates a range of exclusive highlights even more exciting than viewing the Northern Lights dancing over Santa’s house. Gain your reindeer licence and take the reins on the ultimate sleigh ride, visit Santa Claus’ Village and send a postcard from his post office, and try your hand at tobogganing, skiing, ice fishing and ice hockey at Snowfun. Oh, don’t worry; along with a visit to Arktikum science centre and museum, the traditional elements of the holiday season are covered too, with the option to join a traditional Finnish Christmas Day church service and to enjoy a festive Christmas dinner. Full details at vivaholidays.com.au/ultimate-journeys Gain exclusive access to Ireland’s top beverage and food producers on this intimate tour. This journey not only treats up to 16 guests to the Emerald Isle’s most iconic experiences curated by Good Food Ireland®, but pairs them with visits to celebrated destinations; enjoy a meal aboard the restored dining carriages from the original Orient Express at Glenlo Abbey, throw back a creamy pint (or two) at Guinness Storehouse, and savour a private dining experience in the Vine Wine Cellar at Hayfield Manor. On this Ultimate Journeys tour, guests will also meet the proprietors of each venue to get a behind-the-scenes look (and taste) of the flavours that make Ireland tick. Travelling in a luxury air-conditioned coach through the southern Ireland countryside, there are myriad ways to make room for more than delicious food: tour highlights include a visit to Cahir Castle, a tour of The English Market in Cork (one of the oldest and best covered markets in Europe), and an opportunity to kiss the Blarney Stone at world-famous Blarney Castle. Trip details • 4 nights’ accommodation at 4-star hotels • Buffet breakfast daily, plus three lunches and four dinners • Return airport or railway transfers • Outer winter clothing loan for duration of tour From $4,215*# per person twin share Trip details • 9 nights’ accommodation at 4–5-star hotels • Breakfast daily, 5 lunches and 8 dinners • Food and beverage tastings • Entrance fees • Transport aboard air-conditioned coach From $12,249* Ultimate per person twin share GOOD FOOD Ultimate CHRISTMAS IRELAND® IN FINNISH LAPLAND *Conditions apply (continued). # Price based on 2023 departures, 2024 available upon application. Image copyright Mona. The Viva Holidays general bookings conditions apply, vivaholidays.com.au/policies/bookingconditions. Other conditions apply - ask for details. Viva Holidays Pty Ltd ABN 78 634 662 294. by MAXIMUM A TASTE 10 GUESTS OF TASSIE YOUR 5 DAY/4 NIGHT EXPERIENCE INCLUDES: • 4 nights accommodation at MACq 01 Hobart in a Superior Hunter Room • Full breakfast daily • Dinner at Aloft – five course tasting menu with matched wines • Private day tour to Bruny Island including lunch, wine and tastings • Crystal stem wine and cheese tasting at Puddleduck Vineyard • Wine tasting at Craigow Winery and Gin or whiskey tasting at Killara Distillery • Two course lunch including a flight of three wines at Frogmore Creek • Mona Like a Rockstar including five course degustation lunch and matched wines • Return Posh Pit ferry transfers to Mona, including drinks and canapes • Farewell dinner at the Old Wharf Restaurant 4 nights from $3,499*^per person twin share Departs: 25 Jan 24, 7 Mar 24, 2 May 24, 5 Sep 24, 7 Nov 24, 6 Mar 25
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These pages are filled with an eclectic mix of wondrous places and experiences – natural and man-made; cultural and culinary; the timeless classics and the undiscovered. We cover wild landscapes that catch your breath such as Chile’s Atacama Desert, architectural marvels like the Taj Mahal, cool urban hotspots such as Budapest’s ruin bars, adventures to far-flung corners like Bhutan’s Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) and epic journeys such as the legendary Route 66. Prepare for the wanderlust. of the PHOTOGRAPHY JIM WINTER (FAKARAVA DETAIL)
Ancestral Puebloan culture in Colorado The Ancestral Puebloan people had a long-held union with the natural world that was part of everyday life, evidence of which can be found in the beautifully preserved ancient dwellings and religious kivas (meeting rooms) clustered on the cliffs in Mesa Verde National Park. The name Mesa Verde means ‘green table’, and it was one of the first UNESCO World Heritage sites in the United States, designated in 1978 to preserve the rich cultural heritage of the 26 pueblos and tribal communities that lived on the plateau between 55 and 1300 CE. The entrance fee to visit the 5000 or so stone sites in the southwestern corner of Colorado contributes to preserving and protecting the ruins and rock art at Mesa Verde. The stone dwellings, which make up the largest archaeological preserve in the country, provide a window into the lives of the Ancestral Puebloans who abandoned the buildings after six centuries. Archaeologists are still trying to find out why. Carla Grossetti PHOTOGRAPHY CATHERINE MARSHALL (OLD JERUSALEM WALLS)
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 85 TEMPLES OF TIKAL It’s impossible not to feel your heart beat faster when you spot the iconic temples of Tikal rising out of the tropical jungles of El Petén in northern Guatemala. Arguably the greatest Maya city uncovered to date, Tikal is particularly mesmerising at sunrise, when toucans flap through the mist and howler monkeys clamour in the verdant canopy. Yes, you’ll share this mystical moment with hundreds of other travellers, but it’s still incredibly moving. Sarah Reid HOLY SITES OF OLD JERUSALEM The greatest concentration of monotheistic holy sites occurs within the ramparts encircling this UNESCO World Heritage-listed city. Christian pilgrims pour into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to see Jesus’s tomb. Jews make entreaties to God at the Wailing Wall. Muslims supplicate themselves before Allah at Al Aqsa Mosque. So often at odds, this trio finds common ground at the Old City’s summit, where the gold-leafed Dome of the Rock blazes in the sunlight. It was here, they agree, that Abraham offered his son Isaac as a sacrifice. Catherine Marshall
Sacred traditions of the Philippines To say the Batad Rice Terraces are a work of art would be an understatement. The amphitheatre-like cluster of Ifugao rice paddies, carved thousands of years ago, is a spectacle on its own. But what makes it truly remarkable can be seen through the eyes of a local. For Ifugao tribespeople, Baki rituals bring bountiful harvests. Locals honour the dead as much as they respect their ancestors. These centuries-old traditions are what keep breathtaking Batad most alive. Cathlyn Mae Botor MOROCCO’S OLDEST CITY Very little has changed in Morocco’s oldest city since the Middle Ages including the ancient tradition of leather tanning, which can be observed amid the labyrinthine alleys that make up the walled city of Fes. The ancient city within a city is a great place to practise your bazaar banter, with vendors touting their wares on every corner of the bustling medina. Days four and five of Abercrombie & Kent’s Mosaics & Medinas tour includes a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed medina and famed tanneries of Fes. Watch artisans at work dyeing leather using natural ingredients and admire the vibrant mosaics on display in the many mosques and medersas (schools). Carla Grossetti ART AND ARCHAEOLOGY IN PAKISTAN It’s one thing to marvel at religious relics and ancient art in a gallery or museum. It’s another thing entirely to wander through the streets of an excavated city regarded as one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. The 23-day Kashgar to Kashmir tour with Crooked Compass will take you from bustling bazaars in Kashgar and along the Old Silk Road to the sprawling city of Taxila, just a short drive from Islamabad, Pakistan. Taxila has always been regarded as one of the most important cities in Gandhāra, the historical name for the Peshawar Plain, as it’s where Gandhāran Buddhist art flourished. Crooked Compass will help you navigate around the archaeological sites, which include beautifully detailed Buddhist stupas and monasteries. Carla Grossetti
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 87 Ireland’s medieval marvel Perched atop a limestone outcrop, there is more to the medieval Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary than meets the eye. Also known as St Patrick’s Rock, legend has it that it was on this site in the 5th century that St Patrick converted King Aenghus to Christianity. Set amid the lush, green pastures Ireland is renowned for, the Rock’s multiple buildings are of great historical significance spanning the 12th, 13th and 15th centuries. Emily Murphy THE LAST ORIGINAL WONDER OF THE WORLD There’s an unwavering feeling of awe that comes from standing at the base of the Pyramids of Giza and looking up. The fact these monumental tombs are relics of an ancient Egyptian civilisation that existed more than 4500 years ago makes the structures feel even more dramatic and otherworldly. And while archaeologists continue to look for pieces of the puzzle as to how these ancient wonders were constructed, one thing is for certain: the Great Pyramid stands as a giant geometric testament to the skills of the ancient Egyptian engineers. It’s for that reason it endures as the last remaining wonder of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Carla Grossetti Ancient port city of Ephesus An excursion to Ephesus, located in modern-day Turkey and once one of the largest and most important cities in the ancient Mediterranean world, makes for a twist on a Greek Islands cruise with the likes of Crystal and Celebrity. Wander the well-preserved ruins of this oncethriving seaport, taking in its temples, elegant statues and broad streets, to be transported to another world. Imogen Eveson SRI LANKA’S LION ROCK FORTRESS Sigiriya, also called Lion Rock, is an ancient fortress built in the late 5th century, sitting atop a lava plug that dominates the landscape over the northern Matale district. Sinhalese King Kashyapa I built his palace in the shape of a lion on top of the 349-metre-high rock pillar as a stronghold against his enemies. However, the king was defeated in 495 CE and the fortified kingdom fell into ruin to be swallowed by the surrounding jungle. Thankfully, portions of the palace declared a World Heritage site in 1982 remain intact and visitors can wander up a stairway, dominated by a sculpture of giant lion’s paws, to see the frescoes, rock paintings and terraced gardens that remain. Carla Grossetti
Iconic Wonders CLOCKWISE FROM main: The 136-year-old Raffles Singapore is a National Monument; The Singapore Sling, regarded as the national drink, was created in 1915 in the Long Bar; The hotel’s exterior is an icon of the city; Dine at La Dame de Pic; The Elizabeth Taylor Suite is named after the actress who twice-resided at the hotel - there are 12 ‘Personality Suites’.
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 89 We always say the best way to get to know Raffles is to get lost,” reassures the concierge as I fumble my directions again. It’s sage advice that I follow as I tread the hallowed ground of Singapore’s most legendary hotel, which is laid out in an intricate confection of buildings and wings, courtyards and tropical gardens. A salve against the city’s equatorial climate, Raffles is a composite of white marble colonnades lined with lush palm trees and polished teak underfoot that lead me to the sanctuary of my suite in the Palm Court wing. Pulitzer Prizewinning novelist James A. Michener lends his name to my refuge, one of 12 Personality Suites so called for the luminaries that once resided in them; he, surely, would have known this place like the back of his hand. So too, I ponder, Charlie Chaplin, Elizabeth Taylor and Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. A personal letter hangs in the suite dedicated to the writer William Somerset Maugham, immortalising his famous quote: “Raffles Hotel stands for all the fables of the Exotic East.” Raffles Hotel Singapore has a storied history that captures in amber the feeling of its literary past. First opened in 1887 as a 10-room beachfront hotel, it quickly became a beacon and haven for world travellers. Author Joseph Conrad, then a seaman, is thought to have been one of its earliest guests. Raffles’ popularity saw an extra wing, the Palm Court, added in 1894 and five years later, its main building – recognisable today – was constructed on the site of the original bungalow-style beachhouse in neo-Renaissance style, marking the beginning of the hotel’s heyday. Today, while breezes no longer float in off the South China Sea (due to land reclamation that happened in phases), it is one of the few remaining great 19th-century hotels in the world and was declared a National Monument upon reaching its 100th anniversary in 1987. A new chapter has been written again in recent years, with a careful and sensitive PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (LOBBY, EXTERIOR, ELIZABETH TAYLOR SUITE) One of the great heritage hotels of the world, Raffles Singapore has a storied literary legacy. But, as Imogen Eveson experiences, it is writing a new chapter too, which cherishes its history while channelling the contemporary. The fables of Raff les >>
still proves a lure. Its original incarnation was in the lobby, and “here,” says resident historian Nazir Yusof during a tour of the hotel, “writers had plenty of time to sit and watch guests come in and out, listening to gossip and finding inspiration for their stories.” The famous bar has been relocated, embellished and expanded to a full bar serving craft cocktails and paying tribute to the hotel’s literary luminaries throughout a curation of mementos and books. And it is continuing its legacy with a new program of writers in residence. Has anyone who imagines themselves a writer ever come to Raffles and not tried to bottle that feeling? The feeling of time being slow. The heat resolved to steady you to a languid pace and lull you into the rhythm of a slow-moving ceiling fan. To notice the details. To have thinking space, room to breathe and revelations you might just commit to paper. My favourite spot is on the wide teak verandah outside my suite overlooking the lush Palm Court, where I sit in the morning with a cup of coffee, pen and paper in hand. On Raffles time. After I check out, I return to the Tiffin Room for lunch, craving the palak paneer I’d eaten hungrily when I arrived here two evenings before, but with more time now to soak in the finely calibrated interiors and atmosphere of my surrounds. This elegant dining room soundtracked by the tinkling of piano keys traces its roots back to 1892. Its walls are lined with exquisite old tiffin boxes and Chinese porcelain and the restored interior includes reinstated wooden floorboards to echo its early incarnation when it opened onsite as one of the first Indian restaurants in Singapore. I may not be lost anymore, but I can’t bring myself to find my way out of Raffles just yet. restoration completed in 2019, elevating the offering to a new benchmark of contemporary luxury while preserving the all-important ambience and heritage feel. Liveried Sikh doormen still greet guests graciously on arrival against the much-photographed backdrop of the hotel’s iconic white facade. The grand lobby is as much a statement as ever, but a dazzling new chandelier now forms the centrepiece, inspired by the lotus flower and made up of 8142 pieces of crystal. My suite encapsulates the intuitive translation from past to present that was executed in the restoration: its understated and elegant interior composed of parlour, bedroom and bathroom is all cooling dark woods, blue, cream and brushed gold contained by louvred shutters. Only now, blackout blinds and soundproofing create extra sanctuary. From my four-poster bed I use an iPad to control lights and book a treatment at the new Raffles Spa. The redesigned bathroom boasts Peranakan-inspired marble flooring and the legendary Raffles butlers are still on hand; I follow a hot tip and ask them to draw me a bath for my return from dinner. New culinary concepts were introduced during the redesign to appeal to hotel guests and Singaporeans alike. There’s elevated wood-fire dining at Butcher’s Block and French fine dining from Michelin-starred chef AnneSophie Pic at La Dame de Pic. Today a hub in the heart of the city, the hotel is at once removed yet inherently part of its DNA. The lunchtime buzz at yì by Jereme Leung on a rainy Sunday attests to this: helmed by the eponymous Master Chef, the contemporary Chinese restaurant is a hit. But the classics remain – no visit would be complete without a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar, where the famous cocktail was created in 1915. And the Writers Bar CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: North Indian cuisine has been served in the Tiffin Room since 1892; Chinese restaurant yì by Jereme Leung is helmed by the Master Chef himself; The hotel underwent an extensive restoration completed in 2019, where modern elements blend with heritage charm; Expect elegant, thoughtful touches in the suites.
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 91 Cambodia’s epic Angkor Wat The jungle-choked ruins of the world’s largest religious structure feel even more otherworldly away from the crowds. Bypass the throngs clamouring for the perfect sunrise shot at the main temple and begin your exploration at the likes of Ta Prohm with its Tomb Raider vibes. If you get here early enough (the gates open at 5am) you might be lucky enough to enjoy a section of the epic 12th-century site to yourself for a while. Sarah Reid CHINA’S CULTURAL TREASURES China occupies Earth’s highest point as well as one of its lowest – and holds 4000 years of recorded history in between. The Great Wall of China, Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven loom large in Beijing, but immerse yourself in the city itself and you’ll find atmospheric hutongs (alleys) that stand in stark contrast to the megalopolis of modern-day Shanghai. Wend your way to Hangzhou to discover the birthplace of Longjing tea and cruise along the Yangtze River, which features rock carvings and an underwater museum. Make tracks for Xi’an to witness the iconic Terracotta Army, a collection of a few hundred sculptures built in the 3rd century BCE to protect China’s first emperor in the afterlife. Carla Grossetti A Traveller’s Checklist GETTING THERE raffles hotel SINGAPORE is located in the CBD, a 20-minute taxi ride from Changi Airport, or an easy train journey on the MRT to City Hall station. raffles.com EATING THERE Raffles is home to nine restaurants and bars, from the historic Tiffin Room to contemporary steakhouse butcher’s block. Enjoy high tea in the grand lobby and a rite-of-passage Singapore Sling in the long bar. PLAYING THERE Visit the iconic gardens by the bay, a masterpiece of architecture and garden artistry, and its ethereal indoor Cloud Forest. gardensbythebay.com.sg Browse some of the 8000 pieces of art in the sprawling national gallery singapore. nationalgallery.sg Explore the city’s oldest urban quarter kampong glam, where you’ll find an array of street art and culturally rich arab street where stalls sell vibrant Persian carpets and fabrics. Wander along orchard road, the city’s famous shopping strip. PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (TIFFIN ROOM, DETAIL)
PHOTOGRAPHY CHIARA CADEDDU (VERMELHO MELIDES EXTERIOR, LIVING ROOM); AMBROISE TÉZENAS (VERMELHO MELIDES INTERIOR) THE EXTRAORDINARY ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF PETRA It’s the moment you glimpse the rock-carved facade of The Treasury through the narrow timeworn passageway of the Siq that you anticipate most. But the true awe inspired by the rose city of Petra, tucked deep in the desert canyons of present-day Jordan, dawns over a day spent exploring this famous archaeological site. The capital of the ancient Nabataean civilisation thrived at the heart of the Incense Route and its red sandstone still holds these memories. Imogen Eveson An American icon One of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, the Grand Canyon is an icon of the United States: synonymous with the vast expanse of the American West and of spiritual importance to the 11 Associated Tribes that maintain deep connections with the landscape. One of the most spectacular examples of erosion on the planet, this immense canyon cut by the Colorado River touches four US states – Arizona, Nevada, Utah and Colorado. And while its place in pop culture bestows a feeling of familiarity long before you’ve ever made the pilgrimage, nothing can prepare you for the dizzying feeling of awe that hits when you get there. Time appears frozen when surveying this geological marvel from the rim’s edge, with layers of rock that ripple out like an ocean before you. Imogen Eveson
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 93 Kenya’s Great Migration Hungry crocodiles snap at the tails of wildebeest and zebras tentatively crossing the Mara River. Most of the mammals escape safely to the other side, only to be confronted by equally hungry lions, cheetahs and leopards. It’s a spectacle that can only be witnessed between July and October, when the wildlife that usually spread out across Tanzania’s 15,000 square-kilometre Serengeti National Park congregate in Kenya’s 1500 square-kilometre Masai Mara National Reserve in search of food and water. Angela Saurine AN INSTANT CLASSIC IN PORTUGAL Christian Louboutin’s first hospitality project, Vermelho Melides, has opened in the village of Melides in Alentejo, Portugal. Vermelho means ‘red’ in Portuguese, paying tribute to the French shoe designer’s signature colour. The 13-bedroom property has been designed like a traditional maison de vacances, offering a homey albeit high-end experience with the eclectic flair that so defines Louboutin. It’s maximalism maxed out with a collision of styles, eras, materials and colours that has all the hallmarks of an instant classic. Carla Grossetti
U n d i s c o v e r e d Wonders
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 95 PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH REID (JEEP, SWIMMING POOL); TANVEER BADAL PHOTOGRAPHY (HABITAS RESTAURANT); KLEINJAN GROENEWALD (HABITAS SPICES AND TEA) The rock-hewn temples of Hegra and Dadan are the handiwork of the ancient civilisation that built Petra. Sarah Reid on why now is the time to visit AlUla. An ancient oasis city With major historical sites such as Machu Picchu and the Pyramids of Giza so ingrained in popular culture, it’s common to feel a sense of déjà vu when we finally see them with our own eyes. It’s a very different feeling visiting AlUla. While travellers familiar with Jordan’s Petra will recognise the rock-hewn temples of Hegra as the handiwork of the ancient Arabic Nabataean civilisation, the mind boggles as to how the wealth of geological and archaeological riches of this remote corner of north-western Saudi Arabia went virtually unknown to the outside world for more than 2000 years. When Saudi Arabia first opened to international tourists in 2019, the ancient oasis city of AlUla quickly emerged as its showpiece attraction. Sculpted by millions of years of erosion, the region’s otherworldly landscape is worth the trip in itself, with immense boulders shaped like giant elephants and basaltic lava flows oozing from ancient volcanoes. Even more intriguing are the layers of history threaded through this ancient landscape that archaeologists are only just beginning to unravel. In a nation known for ambitious mega projects, AlUla could have been transformed into an archaeological Disneyworld with the US $15 billion earmarked for its development as a luxury tourism destination. To my relief, tourism infrastructure completed to date is both easy on the eye and, to an extent, the environment, with experiences led by highly trained rawi (Arabic storyteller guides) offering an accessible opportunity to connect with the Saudi behind the headlines. While this Gulf nation remains a deeply conservative country with a troubling human rights record, it’s my view that visiting places such as AlUla and engaging with locals helps to promote the cross-cultural understanding necessary to evolve as a global society. In AlUla, the complimentary refreshment stands located at the main historic sites are the first hint that Saudi culture is, at its essence, more hospitable than many travellers might think. While always on guard as a solo female traveller, I felt safe and welcome here. A 30-minute drive north of AlUla town, Hegra – Saudi’s first UNESCO site – is AlUla’s crown jewel. Also known as Mada’in Saleh, the southern capital of the Nabataean Kingdom may only have 111 rock-cut tombs to Petra’s 600-odd, but they’re similarly magnificent, hewn from a series of golden sandstone boulders between 1 BCE – 1 CE in contrast to those of Petra, carved from a narrow rose-coloured canyon at around the same time. With visits restricted to guided tours by bus or Land Rover that visit only a fraction of the 52-hectare site, I leave Hegra feeling somewhat short-changed. Nonetheless, the tour stops provide a fascinating glimpse into this remarkable lost city. And Hegra isn’t AlUla’s only ancient city. Before the Nabataeans arrived, the picturesque valley south of Hegra was home to Dadan, which served as the capital of two other ancient Arab kingdoms, Dadan (9th–8th century BCE) and Lihyan (5th–2nd century BCE). With excavations CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The rock-hewn temples of Hegra; Dining at Tama, the restaurant at sustainable tented resort Habitas; Tama infuses Middle Eastern cuisine with global flavours; Habitas is a luxe oasis in the desert. >>
still in their infancy, the current highlight of Dadan is its string of tombs chiselled into the cliffs. Look for the skilfully crafted funerary monuments, including the seated lion sculptures that may have marked a royal burial. On the opposite side of the valley is Jabal Ikmah, another remnant from the Dadanite era inscribed on the UNESCO Memory of the World register in 2023 for its rock carvings chronicling the evolution of Old Arabic languages. “Welcome to my library,” says rawi Amal Aljohani as she guides us into a canyon featuring more than 300-odd inscriptions depicting everything from daily life in the region to animals that once roamed these lands. The significance of this astonishingly well-preserved time capsule is not lost on our awestruck group as Amal interprets some of the ancient text and images. Nestling between these two sites is AlUla Old Town, which emerged in the 12th century as the valley became part of the historic incense trading route. Exploring its labyrinth of alleys on a guided tour, it’s hard to believe its last residents didn’t move out of the eroded mudbrick and stone buildings until the 1980s. Astride AlUla Old Town (two kilometres north of the modern town of AlUla) lies the oasis – the ancient agricultural heartland of AlUla still used today. Guided tours along the three-kilometre Heritage Oasis Trail are available, but it’s worth seizing the rare opportunity to explore one of AlUla’s ancient wonders independently on a self-guided meander between plots of fragrant mint, citrus trees and date palms. More modern cultural attractions including the mirror-walled Maraya concert hall and the AlJadidah Arts District, as well as a bevy of adventure activities from zip-lining to via ferrata (rock-climbing obstacles), tempt a longer stay in AlUla – or a repeat visit, as this surreal landscape continues to reveal more of its forgotten treasures. A Traveller’s Checklist GETTING THERE The town of AlUla is a 30-minute drive north of AlUla International Airport. With taxis in short supply, it’s best to book transfers in advance. A low-carbon tramway currently in development will be a game changer for exploring the region. STAYING THERE Habitas AlUla is a luxury tented resort-style hotel (with an excellent incense route-inspired restaurant, Tama), which has been sustainably constructed in a spectacular sandstone canyon in the Ashar Valley near Hegra. ourhabitas.com The recently opened Banyan Tree Alula, in the Ashar Valley, also welcomes non-guests at its two restaurants. banyantree.com EATING THERE AlUla has a good range of contemporary dining options, including international restaurant somewhere, a short walk from AlUla Old Town. @somewhere on Instagram. The Heart of OasiS, in the dappled shade of date palms, offers an atmospheric farm-tofork dining experience. @heartofoasis on Instagram. PLAYING THERE Book local experiences at experiencealula.com FROM LEFT: Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO site, Hegra is made up of more than 100 rock-cut temples; Habitas is hidden away in a sandstone canyon of the Ashar Valley. PHOTOGRAPHY TANVEER BADAL PHOTOGRAPHY (HEGRA); KLEINJAN GROENEWALD (HABITAS); KATYA HORNER (BUFFALO BAYOU PARK CISTERN); CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ (GREAT INCA ROAD)
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 97 Hiking the Great Inca Road The Inca Trail gets all the glory, but it’s just part of one of the most incredible feats of ancient engineering, with the Great Road system, or Qhapaq Ñan as the Inca knew it, stretching some 40,000 kilometres from present-day Colombia to Chile. Now a less-visited section of the network in Peru has become more accessible, with Intrepid Travel among the handful of operators now leading hikes on a section weaving past ancient ruins and traditional villages, east of Huarez. Sarah Reid HOUSTON’S CAVE OF WONDERS The best music venue in Beyoncé’s hometown isn’t some fancy new arena. It’s a subterranean vault that used to hold Houston’s drinking water. A forest of 221 columns rises from the gloom in a cavernous reservoir modelled on Istanbul’s magnificent Basilica Cistern. But when our guide bursts into song, the entire structure is transformed into an instrument, her voice bouncing off the concrete walls so that each note shimmers in the air. When she begins to harmonise with herself, it sounds like we’re being serenaded by an angelic choir and, as the last notes fade, even our whoops of delight are magnified by this atmospheric cave of wonders. Alexis Buxton-Collins The Roman ruins of Libya It’s likely not the first place that springs to mind when it comes to Roman ruins. But Libya is home to some of the world’s finest remains of Roman architecture, culminating at Leptis Magna, a Phoenician city on the Mediterranean coast near modern-day Khoms, expanded under Roman Emperor, Septimius Severus. Off limits since the Arab Spring, Libya’s Roman relics are finally becoming easier to visit again, with adventure travel specialists Untamed Borders and Lupine Travel both launching tours in 2023. Sarah Reid
PHOTOGRAPHY ELSA YOUNG (KISAWA SANCTUARY); SARAH ARANE (NAURU PHOSPHATE MINE); BOOKINGS THROUGH DESIGNHOTELS.COM (MAMULA ISLAND HOTEL) SAVOUR SRI LANKA’S HILL COUNTRY Sri Lanka’s lush, cool hinterlands are a sight to behold. Think mist-shrouded mountains and rolling hills covered in luminous green tea estates and wild tropical jungle. Scattered throughout are former planters’ bungalows that have been converted into intimate boutique hotels set among manicured lawns and English-style gardens. Among the finest are three run by Teardrop Hotels, including Camellia Hills with its glorious lake views (pictured), Nine Skies, located close to a historic railway bridge, and magical Goatfell, which sits nearly 2000 metres above sea level. With its long and winding roads, this is a trip to be savoured like a fine brew, not rushed. Kee Foong Mozambique’s dazzling archipelago If you think Australia’s Whitehaven Beach is spectacular, then wait until you see Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago. Time your arrival by air at low tide and you’ll be treated to incredible swirls of dazzling white sand that seemingly stretch to infinity. The archipelago hosts the country’s most important marine national park, teeming with whales, sharks, manta rays and rare dugongs. Of its five islands, Benguerra is best to lay your head. Top of the heap is Kisawa Sanctuary (pictured), an ultra-exclusive resort of just 11 palatial bungalows, each nestled within its own beachfront sand dunes. Or there’s the relatively more affordable yet excellent andBeyond Benguerra Island. Kee Foong
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 99 THE MISUNDERSTOOD NATION OF NAURU It’s time to broaden our understanding of the tropical island country of Nauru, marred by the boom and bust of exhaustive phosphate mining and its controversial Regional Processing Centre. Once dubbed Pleasant Island, Nauru is ringed by pristine reef, blanketed in lush jungle and a sprawling underground cave system, while its moon-like interior of jagged limestone pinnacles is an eternal reminder of phosphate extraction. Flip the script and learn about traditional Nauruan culture, its German and Japanese occupation, and see its natural beauty with Crooked Compass on an eye-opening four-day Micro Nation of Nauru tour. Megan Arkinstall The insider’s alternative to Greece The tiny Balkan nation of Montenegro exceeds expectations with everything from its medieval villages to its UNESCO-listed parks and steep limestone cliffs plunging into jewel-like glacial lakes. All this minus the crowds that mob the islands of nearby Greece and Croatia. Mamula Island Hotel has also put Montenegro on the map with the design-led property giving visitors another reason to discover Montenegro’s rich heritage and culture. The boutique hotel is housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century fort on Montenegro’s so-called ‘Feel-Good Island’ surrounded by turquoise waters and rugged scenery. The luxurious retreat is one of many reasons Montenegro is high on our list of lesser-known gems. Carla Grossetti
Cultural Wonders CLOCKWISE FROM this image: Behind the scenes at the Melanesian Arts & Culture Festival with a cultural performance group from Malekula, Vanuatu; Traditional bilas (costume) from West New Britain, Papua New Guinea; Details of performers of the Toka Dance from Tanna Island, Vanuatu.