The Causeway Coastal Route For a shorter drive on the wildly beautiful side, steer two hours north from Dublin to Belfast to commence your journey along the Causeway Coastal Route. Spend a night at Titanic Hotel Belfast, which tastefully nods to its ill-fated namesake in everything from decor to its location in the former shipbuilders’ headquarters. Fine diner OX spotlights seasonal produce; for casual daytime eats, music, crafts and mingling with the locals, head to St George’s Market. North of the city, The Gobbins coastal walk is a thrilling convergence of nature’s primal forces and human engineering ingenuity. Afterwards, revive your spirits at Mary McBride’s, a historical gem of a pub tucked away in the village of Cushendun. The Cushendun Caves are just one of many nearby jaw-dropping locations used for filming Game of Thrones, and Ballygally Castle hosted some of the cast members. Visit the beautifully modernised 17th-century castle for ocean views and tempting afternoon teas. Northward, the drama intensifies, each turn producing staggering beauty punctuated by stroll-worthy sandy coves, quaint seaside villages and friendly pubs. Stop in Ballycastle, where The Salthouse Hotel’s luxury eco lodges offer views across to Rathlin Island. Take a day trip over to the island to witness carpets of wildflowers and birdlife including puffins, razorbills and kittiwakes. The most dramatic reveal comes at UNESCO World Heritage-listed site the Giant’s Causeway. Here, 40,000-odd interlocking basalt columns create a geological cacophony of rock tumbling towards the churning ocean; the result, according to legend, of a giant ripping up the bridge his nemesis built to reach Scotland. Nearby, test your mettle above the crashing waves as you traverse the swaying rope bridge at Carrick-a-Rede. Tracking west, you’ll find the romantic ruins of 16th-century Dunluce Castle, crumbling gracefully at the cliff’s edge. Take a dip at the sweeping Portstewart Strand – perhaps trying its new hot and cold therapy sauna – before feasting on fresh seafood at Harry’s Shack. Derry-Londonderry is your final port of call, where you can toast your journey at the Walled City Brewery after another wonderful day of exploring. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Enjoy a stay at the Titanic Hotel Belfast; Take in majestic, dramatic landscapes; The otherworldly Giant’s Causeway. In partnership with Tourism Ireland Start planning at ireland.com The Wild Atlantic Way Driving in Ireland is a (sea)breeze: roads and attractions are well signposted, with electric and hybrid cars among the range of vehicles perfect for coastal cruising. From Dublin, a three-hour amble south-west to start the Wild Atlantic Way from Kinsale means you’ll be driving where rugged coastline and charming villages meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean. This former medieval fishing port in County Cork is a gentle rainbow riot of painted houses, charming seafood restaurants and Michelin-level cuisine (Saint Francis Provisions serves natural wines and local bounty and Bastion Restaurant delivers intimate fine dining). To sample the world’s oldest tipple, visit Kinsale Mead Co. Many Australian-bound convict ships sailed from Cork, with Mizen Head – Ireland’s most south-westerly point – likely their last glimpse of their homeland. Explore nearby Dursey Island via the country’s only cable car, then wind through the Ring of Kerry’s dramatic mountain passes, lakes and picturesque villages, stopping in lively traditional pubs where friendly locals welcome newcomers (Dick Mack’s, in Dingle, is a highlight). Characterful luxury accommodation lines the route, from the grandeur of Limerick’s Adare Manor to the glamping-style serenity of Hideaway at Dromquinna Manor in Kerry. Another highlight is the wallpapered, garden-swathed splendour of Galway’s Ballynahinch Castle, while Gregans Castle Hotel – part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s ‘Considerate Collection’ and host to the likes of J.R.R. Tolkien and Seamus Heaney – is in striking distance of the magnificent Cliffs of Moher, where you can take in the edge-of-the-world wildness and roiling ocean below. Savour salmon prepared using ancient Irish techniques at Burren Smokehouse, or day trip from Doolin to explore the stone-walled, timeless beauty of the Aran Islands, where The Banshees of Inisherin was filmed. Surfers will delight in Sligo’s waves; don’t miss Classiebawn Castle near big-wave hotspot Mullaghmore Head. Peruse the pretty beaches of Port Arthur in Donegal before ending your journey in the rustic Inishowen Peninsula, where you may even see the Northern Lights in winter. WORDS NIKKI WALLMAN
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The magic of Mauritius There’s no denying Mauritius has a certain magic quality to it. In fact, the island itself came into being through some alchemical force; a volcanic eruption 10 million years ago forced mountainous peaks to jut from the Indian Ocean like blades through a billowing blue sheet of silk. Here, velvety frangipanis sweeten the air and the fronds of palm trees dance in the breeze. The island continues to enchant visitors with its tropical beaches, vibrant melting pot of cultures and hearty Creole cuisine. Moor yourself at one of its blissful resorts, such as The Oberoi on the island’s serene west coast. Or SALT of Palmar on the eastern side, a member of Design Hotels (pictured), where designer Camille Walala’s exuberant interiors echo the vibrance of the island. Elizabeth Whitehead THE ALL-TIME ALLURE OF FIJI Scattered like jewels through the South Pacific Ocean, the 330-plus islands of Fiji are a favourite holiday territory for Australians. We love slowing down to the languid rhythm of Fiji time, dipping into staggeringly bluegreen waters, soaking up the genuine warm hospitality, the excellent surf and theatrics of a traditional meke (dance and storytelling) ceremony. Anchoring one corner of the Coral Triangle, Fiji also claims the world’s thirdlongest continuous barrier reef, home to more than 1000 fish species, hundreds of corals and soft sponges, swim-through reefs, canyons and wall dives. It’s an underwater world just as alluring as the surface. Megan Arkinstall PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS THROUGH DESIGNHOTELS.COM (SALT OF PALMAR)
A recommended Réunion Among the unexpected joys of visiting Mauritius’s underrated Indian Ocean neighbour is the shock of its dramatic natural beauty, which rarely appears in tourism brochures outside of mainland France (connected by the world’s longest non-stop domestic flight). On Réunion Island, vast lava fields ooze down steep mountains, waterfalls tumble through lush valleys and an idyllic coral lagoon on the west coast provides excellent snorkelling. And we haven’t even started on the food yet. Sarah Reid PARADISE FOUND IN THE COOK ISLANDS The soft strum of a ukulele being played by a crew member onboard the Polynesian-style double-hulled catamaran Vaka-Titi-ai-Tonga drifts out across the vivid turquoise waters of Aitutaki Lagoon. As I feast on a lunch of barbecue tuna and salad, I repeatedly marvel at the beauty of my surroundings. Stepping off the boat at One Foot Island and strolling along the white sand beach lined with coconut palms cements this Cook Islands archipelago as the epitome of tropical paradise. Angela Saurine A REMOTE BEAUTY IN INDONESIA Indonesia is made up of more than 17,000 islands, and few would disagree that those found in the easternmost province of West Papua are among its finest. For all its beauty above the water, where densely forested islets rise out of the aquamarine sea, the real highlight of Raja Ampat lies below the surface, with its smorgasbord of macro life in particular cementing its status as one of the most vibrant corners of the Coral Triangle. Go on, book that liveaboard. Sarah Reid
155 Yemen’s unspoilt sanctuary Some 350 kilometres south of the Arabian Peninsula, Socotra has been fortunate to avoid the conflicts that continue to plague mainland Yemen. And what relief, for this World Heritage site shelters remarkable diversity: more than 700 of the islands’ native species are found nowhere else on Earth. Walk amid its iconic dragon blood trees, climb giant sand dunes and float over teeming reefs fringing the main island of this small archipelago, safely accessed by direct flights from Abu Dhabi. Sarah Reid The far-f lung Faroe Islands The Faroe Islands, halfway between Norway and Iceland in the North Atlantic Ocean, beckon wayfaring wanderers. The selfgoverning nation, which forms part of the Danish Realm, is home to 18 islands and more than 700 islets and skerries, all staking claim to sights as rare as a hot Faroese summer. Head to Vagar Island for the magical Múlafossur Waterfall and Sørvágsvatn lake. Or try the village of Gjógv on Eysturoy Island, named after the 200-metre sea-filled gorge beside it. Whichever way you turn, you’ll find magic awaits. Taylah Darnell IT THE RHAPSODY OF RAPA NUI Staring up at the row of imposing stone figures with their backs to the ocean on Easter Island is one of those moments that stays in your memory forever. There are more than 1000 moai spread throughout the rugged volcanic island known as Rapa Nui, a Chilean territory, that have been standing watch over its inhabitants for millennia in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. While archaeologists have many theories, nobody knows for sure why the moai were made or how they were transported and erected. Angela Saurine INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM
JUST ADD S.A.L .T. We jam with Adam Sachs, director of Silversea’s immersive culinary program, S.A.L.T., about what fuels his wanderlust. The high-profile food and travel writer also reveals the ingredients he believes make for a memorable meal and where he’d most like to travel to next. Turn to page 160 for more. PHOTOGRAPHY FEDERICO CIAMEI WHAT’S ON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DAY AT THE MUSEUM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WANDERLUST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LAST WORD
PASSPORT | Culture 16 September – 3 October OKTOBERFEST Munich, Germany oktoberfest.de 29 September – 1 October HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, USA hardlystrictlybluegrass.com 1–7 October HERRING FAIR Helsinki, Finland silakkamarkkinat.fi 28–29 October SAFFRON ROSE FESTIVAL Consuegra, Spain consuegra.es 27–28 November CHIANG MAI LANTERN FESTIVAL Chiang Mai, Thailand yipengchiangmailantern festival.com DON’T MISS... From 10 September PRESENTING ED RUSCHA / NOW THEN Museum of Modern Art, New York, USA “I don’t have any Seine River like Monet,” artist Ed Ruscha once said. “I’ve just got US 66 between Oklahoma and Los Angeles.” Through a variety of mediums – painting, photography, film and typography to name a few – Ruscha captured the poetry and spirit of Americana. Now, this retrospective exhibition will explore six decades of the artist’s iconic work. moma.org a guide to the best global shows, exhibitions and events Worth circling on your calendar. 2-5 November DAIDOGEI WORLD CUP Shizuoka City, Japan Asia’s largest street performance festival will bring a wave of entertainers into the heart of Shizuoka City. Shizuoka, which is famed for its views of Mt Fuji, will be transformed into a giant theatre thanks to a slew of roving performers and entertainers stationed all around the city. daidogei.com Until 5 November THROUGH THE BLACK GORGE OF YOUR EYES Kumu Art Museum, Tallinn, Estonia This evocative exhibition illuminates the underground world of female graphic artists of the late-Soviet period (1960s to ’70s). Mostly unknown outside of Eastern Europe, the artists’ works explore themes of the body, folklore and the multifaceted experiences of womanhood, motherhood and ageing through a variety of printmaking techniques. kumu.ekm.ee 22 OCTOBER ABU SIMBEL SUN FESTIVAL TEMPLE OF KING RAMSES II, ABU SIMBEL, EGYPT TWICE A YEAR, A CROWD GATHERS OUTSIDE THE TEMPLE OF KING RAMSES II TO WATCH THE SUN LIGHT UP THE NARROW ENTRANCE AND PERFECTLY ALIGN WITH A STATUE OF THE PHARAOH, ILLUMINATING HIS FACE. THE OCTOBER EVENT IS BELIEVED TO COINCIDE WITH THE PHARAOH’S BIRTHDAY, MAKING THE FESTIVAL A 3000-YEAR-OLD CELEBRATION THAT CONTINUES STRONG INTO THE PRESENT DAY. EGYPT.TRAVEL WHAT’S ON ARTWORKS MARJU MUTSU PILK 1976 COURTESY EESTI KUNSTIMUUSEUM; EDWARD RUSCHA. STANDARD STATION, TEN-CENT WESTERN BEING TORN IN HALF. 1964. PRIVATE COLLECTION. © 2023 EDWARD RUSCHA. PHOTO EVIE MARIE BISHOP, COURTESY OF THE MODERN ART MUSEUM OF FORT WORTH
INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM 159 PASSPORT WORDS CHARLIE SQUIRE PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLIE SQUIRE (PICNIC AREA); © INTER IKEA SYSTEMS B.V. 2023 (ALL REMAINING IMAGES) A day at the museum The IKEA Museum is three museums in one: an archive of 20th-century design, a history of politics and life in rural Sweden, and a behindthe-scenes look at the iconic brand. WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? Located in what was once the world’s first IKEA store, the IKEA Museum offers a unique perspective into Swedish design, history and culture. The museum (flat)packs a punch with 3500 square metres of exhibition space where you’ll find a treasure trove of retro products and fascinating displays that trace the story of the furniture giant, situating it in its social and political context. The IKEA Museum physically, historically and intellectually covers a lot of ground, making for a hands-on museum excursion that is shockingly educational and seriously fun. ikeamuseum.com TOP FOUR... EIGHTY YEARS OF DESIGN Of course, the focus of the IKEA Museum is the furniture. The museum’s top floor provides a decade-by-decade guide to the history of IKEA and furniture design, examining material culture at a mass-market level. Displays of vintage IKEA products serve as time capsules of interiors from bygone eras. Here, you’ll also learn about the influence political movements, technology and sustainability have had on the way that IKEA furniture is designed and produced. EXPLORING SMÅLAND Our Roots is an exhibition that forms a large part of the museum, and is dedicated to the history and people of Älmhult and Småland, IKEA founder Ingvar Kamprad’s rural childhood province. This section includes exhibitions of folk art and handicrafts, lauding the resourcefulness of people living among limited means and a harsh environment. Visitors can even take part in a hands-on butterchurning simulation. EXIT THROUGH THE GIFT SHOP One could consider their local IKEA a gift shop in and of itself. But here, you’ll find plenty of tchotchkes alongside a robust selection of design books and art prints. IKEA Museum, Älmhult, Sweden Around Älmhult Älmhult is surrounded by rolling hills, picturesque farms and some very photogenic livestock in the stunning landscape of rural Sweden. Keep your eyes peeled for quaint and quintessentially Swedish mid-century modern homes as you enter and exit the town, which is accessible by train and bus. For the ultimate IKEA experience, visitors can stay in the world’s only IKEA hotel, located across from the museum. SOCIAL HISTORY IKEA’s dominance didn’t just come from the quality of its furniture, but from a rising middle-class market that was the by-product of an emerging welfare state. Also part of Our Roots, this section provides a fascinating look into the political and pedagogical history of Sweden, examining the role that sociology and psychology played in product development. AN ELEVATED IKEA CAFE Fika is a Swedish term for a coffee and cake break, but it’s also a life philosophy of slowing down and enjoying the little things. Included in your museum ticket is a free cup of coffee, tea or lingonberry juice – perfect for a post-peruse fika. Museums | PASSPORT
160 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF TRAVELLING? I didn’t travel a ton growing up, but we did take some wonderful trips around the UK and Scotland when I was young – a lucky, mind-expanding adventure for a kid from Kentucky. My fi rst travel writing was in the form of a journal about a trip to London that I kept as a six-year-old. Th e airport hotel on our last day received my best review because it had a pool. Not my best work. WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT? I’m writing this on the fi rst morning of a two-week driving tour of Ireland (1) with my family. I’m very excited as I’ve never spent any real time here, and we’ve got tons of great guidance from our friends, Tim Magee and Órla Dukes. My favourite trips are the ones in a country or region that’s relatively new to me – especially in the hands of well-connected people who love to eat and explore and whose taste I trust. WHAT’S YOUR DREAM LOCATION? I would really like to spend time in Vietnam. I’m also really excited to go back to amazing Rapa Nui [Easter Island] (2) where I’m working with Silversea on an exciting program for a future cruise. And I’m always dreaming of being back in Japan (3), eating my way around one of the great food destinations of the world. WHAT’S IN YOUR SUITCASE? Too many jackets, too few phone chargers and adaptors, chewable Pepto-Bismol tablets and a pocket-sized paperback I have every intention of fi nishing but probably won’t. WHERE HAVE YOU EATEN YOUR BEST MEAL WHILE TRAVELLING? Th e most memorable experiences involve a happy confl uence of great food, a beautiful setting, a group of friends you love to travel with, some mix of discovery and the anticipatory pleasure of fi nally going somewhere you’ve been dreaming of for a long time. WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR ROLE AS SILVERSEA’S DIRECTOR OF S.A.L.T.? I’ve always loved travelling and telling stories about places through food culture. It’s a privilege to get to do something you love for a living. Th e role requires me to be curious about a range of topics and have engaging conversations with interesting people from all around the world. Making those connections is what really interests me, whether it’s writing about food or creating experiences for others. WHAT’S THE BEST SOUVENIR FROM YOUR TRAVELS? I love bringing home little things I can use in the kitchen that remind me of places, meals or people I met along the way: a Norwegian lefse rolling pin picked up at an antiques [dealer] outside of Trondheim; a basket for grilling fi sh that was a gift after one of my all-time favourite lunches at Elkano (4) on Spain’s Basque coast; some linen that reminds me of a trip to Paris. WHAT’S YOUR ULTIMATE TRAVEL OR CRUISING HACK? Sign up for all Silversea’s S.A.L.T. courses and tours (5, 6), of course! Making sure I have solid intel about where to eat is also important. I don’t like to waste a meal. WHAT DO YOU DO TO TRAVEL MORE CONSCIOUSLY? I try to engage local communities, talk to people who are producers and source the ingredients that make up the local food culture. I like to do things that benefi t and send profi ts back to those communities. silversea.com IT PASSPORT | Wanderlust 1 2 PHOTOGRAPHY FEDERICO CIAMEI (S.A.L.T. EXCURSION IN SORRENTO, S.A.L.T. ETNA WINES EXPERIENCE); LA CRÈME (ELKANO) ADAM SACHS Th e food and travel writer and director of Silversea’s immersive culinary program, S.A.L.T., talks road-tripping Ireland, kitchen souvenirs and memorable food experiences. 6 4 5 3
&DOOXVWRðQGRXWPRUH 1300 1300 50 cota.com.au Insurance and Membership Services Limited ABN 59 057 159 743, AR 246235 trading as COTA Travel Insurance is an authorised representative of nib Travel Services (Australia) Pty Ltd, ABN 81 115 932 173, AFS Licence No 308461 and act as nib’s agent and not as your agent. This is general advice only. Before you buy, you should consider your needs, the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS), Financial Services Guide (FSG) and Target Market Determination ;4+H]HPSHISLMYVT\Z;OPZPUZ\YHUJLPZ\UKLY^YP[[LUI`7HJPÄJ0U[LYUH[PVUHS0UZ\YHUJL7[`3[K()5fiffl *V]LYHNLPZZ\IQLJ[[V[OL[LYTZJVUKP[PVUZSPTP[H[PVUZHUKL_JS\ZPVUZMVYLHJOWVSPJ`HZJVU[HPULKPU[OL7+: Cover for some COVID-19 related events* AT031122 scan for a quote
162 INTERNATIONALTRAVELLER.COM getting inked while on a cruise to the Marquesas Islands is the ultimate cultural souvenir of your travels. WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI PHOTOGRAPHY ROBERTO SERRINI (BIRD DANCE ON UA POU, MARQUESAS TATTOO, ACCOMMODATION ONBOARD ARANUI 5); LIONEL GOUVERNEUR (EDDY TATA) Drawing on culture P assengers onboard Aranui 5 can get a permanent memento of their travels thanks to the cargo cruise ship’s resident tattoo artist, Eddy Tata. Eddy was born on the island of Ua Pou in the Marquesas, where he grew up learning to draw by watching his uncle Moana Kohumoetini inking members of the tight-knit island community. Eddy says Polynesians get tattooed for “the culture, to display our roots”. “For me, this is a great honour to see Polynesian tattoos on foreigners. Through them, Polynesian tattoos spread all around the world,” says Eddy, who works alongside his uncle Moana in the tattoo studio onboard the 125-metre-long vessel. And when he’s not busy inking guests, Eddy is a waiter in the ship’s restaurant. The word tattoo stems from the Marquesan tatau, with the far-flung islands in French Polynesia regarded as being the birthplace of this epidermal art form. Aranui Cruises was the first to offer tattoos at sea. To this day, it remains the only cruise ship in the world to have a traditional Polynesian tattoo artist onboard. The cruise line has been sailing to the Marquesas Islands for around four decades, where the crew delivers supplies and guests disembark to explore the six inhabited islands of Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa. aranui.com IT PASSPORT | Last word Clockwise from top left: Ua Pou is an island rich in culture; Tattoo artist Eddy Tata at work aboard Aranui 5; Marquesan tattoos are deeply rooted in local culture; Accommodation onboard Aranui 5 reflects Polynesian heritage; Aranui Cruises has been showcasing the beauty of the Marquesas Islands for decades.
Find a story worth telling Book your next holiday at WWW.MARLBOROUGHNZ.COM Mount Stokes