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Zambia,
Mozambique
& Malawi
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Edition 3rd Edition
Release Date Sep 2017
Pages 256
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
PLAN YOUR TRIP
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Your planning tool kit
Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating
you create the perfect trip.
2 Activities 6 Drinking
ON THE ROAD
C Courses 3 Entertainment
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use T Tours 7 Shopping
maps & insider tips.
z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
UNDERSTAND
& Events
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, to All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
make sense of what you see. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
SURVIVAL GUIDE range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information These symbols and abbreviations give vital
for a smooth trip. information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Zambia,
Mozambique &
Malawi
Zambia Mpa17la4wi
p34 Mozambique
Victoria Falls
p85 p101
Mary Fitzpatrick, James Bainbridge,
Trent Holden, Brendan Sainsbury
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET© Welcome to Zambia, ZAMBIA. . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Understand Zambia. . . . . 73
Mozambique & Malawi. . . 4 Zambia Today. . . . . . . . . . . . 73
JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © Zambia, Mozambique & Lusaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Malawi’s Top 12. . . . . . . . . . 8 Way of Life. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 14 Eastern Zambia. . . . . . . . . 45 Environment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Chipata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 19 South Luangwa Survival Guide. . . . . . . . . 78
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Countries at a Glance. . . 31 North Luangwa Getting There & Away. . . . . 81
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Getting Around. . . . . . . . . . 83
LEOPARD, SOUTH LUANGWA
NATIONAL PARK P46 Southern Zambia. . . . . . . 52 VICTORIA FALLS . . . . 85
Chirundu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
MT MULANJE, MALAWI P211 Lower Zambezi Seventh Natural
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Wonder of the World . . . . 86
Lake Kariba. . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Zambia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Choma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Livingstone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Lochinvar National Park. . 58
Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Western Zambia. . . . . . . . 58 Victoria Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Kafue National Park. . . . . . 58
Mongu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 MOZAMBIQUE . . . . . 101
Liuwa Plain
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Maputo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Senanga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Around Maputo. . . . . . . . 113
Ngonye Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Inhaca Island. . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Sesheke. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Marracuene &
Macaneta Beach. . . . . . . . . 113
Northern Zambia . . . . . . . 64
Serenje. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Southern
Kasanka National Park. . . 64 Mozambique. . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Bangweulu Wetlands. . . . . 65 Ponta d’Ouro &
Samfya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Ponta Malongane. . . . . . . . 114
Mutinondo Wilderness . . . 66 Bilene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Mpika. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Limpopo National Park. . . 116
Shiwa Ng’andu. . . . . . . . . . . 67 Xai-Xai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Kasama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Inhambane . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Mbala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Tofo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Lake Tanganyika. . . . . . . . . 69 Tofinho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Kalambo Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Barra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Maxixe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
The Copperbelt. . . . . . . . . 71 Massinga &
Kapiri Mposhi. . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Morrungulo. . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Ndola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Pomene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Kitwe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Vilankulo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Chingola. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Bazaruto Archipelago. . . . 126
Chimfunshi
Wildlife Orphanage . . . . . . . 72
Contents
SGUUNURIDDVEEIRVSATLAND
Central Mozambique. . . 127 MALAWI. . . . . . . . . . . 174 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Beira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Gorongosa Lilongwe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 255
Chimoio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Northern Malawi. . . . . . . 182
Manica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Karonga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Chimanimani Mountains. . 133 Livingstonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 SPECIAL
Tete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Nyika National Park. . . . . . 185 FEATURES
Cahora Bassa Dam Vwaza Marsh
& Songo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Wildlife Reserve . . . . . . . . . 186 Zambia, Mozambique
Caia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Mzuzu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 & Malawi’s Top 12. . . . . . . . 8
Quelimane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Nkhata Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Victoria Falls. . . . . . . . . . . 85
Mocuba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Likoma Island. . . . . . . . . . . 191
Gurúè . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Chizumulu Island. . . . . . . . 192
Northern Mozambique. . 138 Central Malawi . . . . . . . . 192
Nampula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Viphya Plateau. . . . . . . . . . 192
Mozambique Island. . . . . . 142 Nkhotakota. . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Around Mozambique Senga Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Monkey Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Cuamba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Cape Maclear. . . . . . . . . . . 196
Lichinga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Lake Niassa. . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Southern Malawi . . . . . 200
Niassa Reserve. . . . . . . . . . 150 Liwonde. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Montepuez. . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Zomba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Pemba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Zomba Plateau. . . . . . . . . 203
Murrébuè . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Blantyre & Limbe. . . . . . . 205
Quirimbas Archipelago. . . 156 Mulanje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Moçimboa da Praia. . . . . . 158 Majete Wildlife Reserve. . . 213
Mueda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Palma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Understand Malawi . . . . 214
Malawi Today. . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Understand History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Mozambique . . . . . . . . . . 160 The Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Mozambique Today . . . . . 160 The Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Natural Environment. . . . . 218
Cuisine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
The Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Survival Guide. . . . . . . . 218
Natural Environment. . . . . 164 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . . . 218
Getting There & Away. . . . 221
Survival Guide. . . . . . . . 165 Getting Around. . . . . . . . . 223
Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . . . 165
Getting There & Away. . . . 168
Getting Around. . . . . . . . . . 171
4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Zambia,
Mozambique &
Malawi
Zambia’s wildlife and waterfalls,
Malawi’s lake and mountains,
Mozambique’s islands and beaches: each
country has its own personality. Focus
on exploring one, or sample all three.
Wildlife Beaches
Zambia’s wildlife-filled plains are legend- Mozambique’s coastline is one of Africa’s
ary, from South Luangwa National Park longest and most alluring, from the wind-
in the southeast to Kafue National Park in swept dunes of Ponta d’Ouro to the languid
the west. With their remoteness, species archipelagos and palm-fringed beaches
diversity and fine network of camps, the of the north. There are many islands, in-
country’s protected areas offer outstanding cluding magical Mozambique Island and
wildlife watching for those willing to meet enchanting Ibo. The country’s history and
the challenge of getting there and around. culture are tied to the sea, and most visi-
Mozambique and Malawi also offer some tors focus on the coast, travelling from one
treats. Highlights include Mozambique’s beach to the next. Inland, Lake Malawi,
lovely Gorongosa National Park, which is with its backdrop of lush mountains rising
also a prime birding destination, and Ma- from the lakeshore, is a fixture in Southern
lawi’s Liwonde National Park, with its hip- African travel itineraries.
pos and crocs.
Cultures
Landscapes
Wherever you go, immerse yourself in the
Diverse and beautiful landscapes captivate everyday beauty, realities and vibrancy of
visitors at every turn. A highlight is Zam- Southern African life and take advantage
bia’s (and Zimbabwe’s) thundering Victoria of opportunities for community-based tour-
Falls, one of the continent’s iconic images ism. In English-speaking Zambia and Mala-
and a Unesco World Heritage Site. Raft wi, local culture is often readily accessible,
the rapids or stand on the spray-misted and both countries offer cultural-tourism
sidelines: the wildness, power and magnifi- activities. In Mozambique, Maputo’s excel-
cence of the falls are unforgettable. Along lent dance and cultural scenes, comple-
the coast, the azure waters and the islands mented by local walking tours, provide a
of Mozambique’s Bazaruto and Quirimbas jumping-off point for getting acquainted
Archipelagos are mesmerising. Inland, mar- with local vibes. Throughout, it will likely
vel at the mist-covered peaks of Mt Mulanje be encounters with Zambians, Malawians
in Malawi and vast tracts of bush bordering and Mozambicans that will make your visit
the Zambezi River in southern Zambia. to the region unforgettable.
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © 5
Why I Love Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi
By Mary Fitzpatrick, Writer
The sense of space and light, the rugged bush interior and the magnificent Indian Ocean
coastline are what first captured my imagination when visiting this region. The colourful
mix of cultures and languages further drew me in. Now, after spending extended periods in
southern Africa, both living and travelling, the gracious welcome offered by so many people
and the many friends I have met combine with the region’s landscapes and nature to make
this corner of Africa one of my favourites.
For more about our writers, see p256.
Above: Camping under the stars, South Luangwa National Park (p46), Zambia
ZaZmabmiab,iMa©,LooMnezlyaoPlmazneatbPumbilqicabtuioineqs P&tuy LetdM&alMawailawi
0 500 km Lake Nsumbu
0 300 miles Mweru NP
LEGEND
ELEVATION NP National Park Mporokoso
WR Wildlife Reserve
3000m DEMOCRATIC Kawambwa
2000m Benwa REPUBLIC OF Mwenda
1000m
500m CONGO Lake
200m Bangweulu
0
Mansa
ANGOLA
Mwinilunga Solwezi Chingola Kasanka
West Lunga Kitwe Ndola NP
NP
Kafue River Serenje
Zambezi
Liuwa Zambezi Kapiri Mposhi
ExpKloarfeutehNe awtiilodnliafel-Ppaacrkked Plain NP Kaoma Lubungu Kabwe ZAMBIA
Busanga Plains (p58)
Mongu Kafue Mumbwa Lower
Okavango River NP Zambezi NP
Rundu LUSAKA
River Lake Namwala Kafue
Itezhi- Lochinvar
Senanga Tezhi NP Monze Chirundu
Sioma
Ngwezi Katima Kalomo Pemba Kariba
NP Mulilo Lake Kariba
Kasane Livingstone Chinhoyi
Victoria Hwange ZIMBABWE
Falls
Okavango
Delta
Grootfontein MaVrviecltoatritaheFawlolsrld's Bulawayo Masvingo
largest waterfalls (p85)
NAMIBIA LowCearnZoaempbaesztisNwaimtiomnianlgPark
Salt Pans elephants (p53)
Keetmanshoop
Orapa
Serowe Messina
River
BOTSWANA Mahalapye River
Limpopo Polokwane
Molopo River GABORONE
(Pietersburg)
Sun Olifants
City
PRETORIA
Johannesburg MBABANE
SOUTH
Vryburg AFRICA
Mbala
Nakonde TANZANIA SToaukthe LauwaanlgkwinagNsaatfiaorni aalmPiadrk
Chitipa animals galore (p46)
Kasama Karonga
Isoka Livingstonia 10ºS
Chisoso Nyika NP Relax LatikdoremaamIysKlaanyda Mawa
boutique hotel (p191)
North Palma
Mpika Luangwa Mzuzu
NP Moçimboa
Malawi da Praia
South Kasungu Cóbuè Niassa Quirimbas
Luangwa NP Kasungu Metangula Reserve Archipelago
NP
Mfuwe MALAWI
Chipata LILONGWE Lake Lichinga Marrupa Montepuez Metoro Pemba
Katete Cape Maclear ExQpueirrieimncbeatsheAernchchipaneltamgeont
Cassacatiza Dedza Mandimba MOZAMBIQUE of magical Ibo (p156)
Lake Cahora MLaijwetoenNdPeMt(3M00u1lamn)jCeuCLamahkiblewa a Malema Namialo Nacala
Bassa Tete WR Blantyre Mt Namúli Nampula Mozambique
(2419m) Island
15ºS
Alto
Molócuè Angoche
Nyamapanda Changara Nicoadala Mocuba Moma EnjoyMthoezatimmbe-iwquarepIsaltamnodsphere
HARARE RZivaemr bezi Caia Pebane and turquoise seas (p142)
0 Comácha Quelimane Liwonde National Park
Gorongosa Watch hippos and elephants
Marondera NP Hike amMid troMlluinlgangjreasslands
in the Shire River (p200)
Mutare Chimoio
Chimanimani and forested ravines (p211)
NP Beira Cha nne l
Mt Binga Majete Wildlife Reserve
(2436m) Spot wildlife amid
20ºS
Rift Valley views (p213)
Save River
Inhassoro
Zinave NP Bazaruto BLaazzaeruantodAdrivcehiinpethlaisgo
Archipelago
0) Vilankulo tropical paradise (p126)
Limpopo RiverBanhine Massinga MADAGASCAR
NP Toliara
Inhambane Moz ambique
Limpopo 25ºS
NP
Chókwè Praia de
Závora
Quissico
Bilene Xai-Xai
Namaacha MAPUTO Maputo
Inhaca Island Get your fix of culture and
SWAZILAND clubbing (p104)
Ponta d'Ouro
8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Zambia, Mozambique &
Malawi’s
Top 12
9
Devil’s Pool, Victoria Falls Mozambique Island
(Zambia) (Mozambique)
1 The mighty Victoria Falls (p90) offers 2 There are no crowds and few vehicles,
many viewpoints, but none so gut- but Mozambique Island (p142) is
wrenching as from the aptly named Devil’s hardly silent. Echoes of its past mix with
Pools. From mid-August to January, dare- the squawking of chickens, the sounds of
devils can swim out to this natural infinity children playing and the calls of the muez-
pool that is literally at the top of the falls. zin to remind you that the island is still
Test your nerve by leaping in where the very much alive. Wander along cobbled
water will carry you to the edge, only to be streets, past graceful plazas rimmed by
stopped by the natural barrier on the lip of once-grand churches and stately colonial-
this sheer and massive curtain of water. era buildings. This Unesco World Heritage
Lap it up while peeking over the edge for Site, with its time-warp atmosphere and
the ultimate bird’s-eye view. backdrop of turquoise seas, is a Mozam-
bique highlight, and is not to be missed.
Cycling past the Igreja da Misericórdia (p143),
Mozambique Island
YURY BIRUKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
STANISLAVBELOGLAZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
10
PL A N YO U R TRI P Z a m b i a , M o z a m b i q u e & M a l aw i ’ s T o p 1 2 Lower Zambezi National South Luangwa National
Park (Zambia) Park (Zambia)
3 Floating down one of Africa’s great 4 On a walking safari, stroll through the
rivers – Zimbabwe’s sandy banks on bush single file behind a rifle-carrying
one side, Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National scout. No engine sounds break the music
Park (p53) on the other – gives you a front- of the bush, and no barriers stand between
row seat to a menagerie of wildlife: hippos you and the wildlife. Listen to scurrying in
surface with warning calls, crocodiles scut- the underbrush as you focus on the little
tle through grass, elephants slosh their way things, then pause in the shade of an aca-
between islands and fierce tiger fish tempt cia tree, gaze over wide plains filled with
anglers. Whether travelling by canoe or munching grazers and immerse yourself
motorised boat, you’ll be hypnotised by the in the magnificent wildness that is South
languidly flowing river and pastel-coloured L uangwa National Park (p46).
sunsets.
3
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET ©
4
MARCO POZZI PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES/MOMENT OPEN ©
JAMES HARRISON/SHUTTERSTOCK © JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © 11PL A N YO U R TRI P Z a m b i a , M o z a m b i q u e & M a l aw i ’ s T o p 1 2
56
7
MARK HANNAFORD/GETTY IMAGES ©
Bazaruto Liwonde National Likoma Island
Archipelago Park (Malawi) (Malawi)
(Mozambique)
6 Set in dry savannah 7 A visit to Likoma Island
5 Brilliant hues of tur- and woodland, this (p191) is unforgettable:
quoise and jade laced small reserve (p200) think Caribbean waters,
with shimmering white punches way above its friendly locals, rustling
sandbanks, dolphins ca- weight with a staggering palm trees and a sense
vorting in the swells and animal population includ- that everything can wait
dugongs grazing in the ing thousands of ele until tomorrow. Once you’ve
shallows, graceful dunes, phants, hippos and crocs. witnessed the extraordinary
pink flamingos, shoals of Stay in the beguilingly Cathedral of St Peter, get
fish, brilliant corals and romantic Mvuu Camp be- down to chilling in the coun-
swaying palm trees – this is side the Shire River, listen- try’s nicest hostel, Mango
the Bazaruto Archipelago ing to passing elephants Drift. Alternatively, stay at
(p126), a world-class ma- and snuffling hippos as the heavenly Kaya Mawa,
rine park and the quintes- you fall asleep in your cosy on a crescent beach with
sential tropical paradise for cabana. Then get up early powder-fine sand, with per-
anyone seeking a getaway. and enjoy a dawn walk and fectly calibrated service and
Stay for a while in one of the boat ride past some very rooms designed around the
handful of luxury lodges or territorial hippos. island’s natural rock forma-
sail over from the mainland tions. Remember Bond
for a day on a dhow. Either villain Scaramanga’s pad?
way, you’ll undoubtedly You’ve found it. Cathedral of
wish your visit was longer. St Peter
12 9
8 10
PLAN YOUR TRIP Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi’s Top 12 JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © MAKSYM KALYTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GUIZIOU FRANCK/HEMIS.FR/GETTY IMAGES ©
Mt Mulanje Kafue National Quirimbas
(Malawi) Park (Zambia) Archipelago
(Mozambique)
8 At an elevation of 9 Imagine a small,
3002m, the Mulanje extremely diverse 10 Idyllic islands strewn
massif (p211) towers above country, but with animals across azure seas,
the surrounding landscape substituted for people – this dense mangrove chan-
of rolling grasslands, is western Zambia’s Kafue nels opening onto pristine
forested ravines and tea National Park (p58). On the patches of soft, white sand,
plantations. It’s also a Busanga Plains in the north, dhows silhouetted against
paradise for hikers and the vistas open up to the ho- the horizon, and magical
climbers, with a series of rizon, with herds of grazers Ibo Island, with its silver-
cabins for overnighting in congregating as far as you smiths, fort and crumbling
during longer treks. Imagine can see. The park’s south mansions – the remote
montane forest a-croak with feels worlds away, with mys- Quirimbas Archipelago
frogs, rocky outcrops and terious riverine landscapes, (p156) is a time and place
clear mountain streams for jungle-clad islands, fast- apart, accessed with dif-
refilling your bottle. This is moving rapids and mean- ficulty and left behind with
among the most dramatic dering channels. North or regret. Whether you dive
scenery in the country. south, there are few visitors and snorkel amid the corals
But be warned: you have to in this land where the wild and fish, wander Ibo’s sandy
earn it. The only way up is things roam. Rondavel (hut) in lanes, relax in a luxury lodge
on foot. Kafue National Park or explore on a dhow, the
archipelago never fails to
enchant.
1 313
Maputo (Mozambique) Majete Wildlife Reserve PLAN YOUR TRIP Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi’s Top 12
(Malawi)
11 Maputo (p104) is Mozambique’s pulse
point, its economic centre, cultural 12 The brightest star in Malawi’s ever-
heart and historical treasure trove, with improving network of parks and re-
an intoxicating vibe and a stunning setting serves is the lovely Majete (p213) – 700 sq km
overlooking Maputo Bay. Wide, jacaranda- of riverine valleys and miombo (woodland) in
and flame-tree-lined streets flow from the the southwestern Rift Valley. Sip sundown-
quieter upper part of town down into the ers under the watchful eyes of hippos and
bustling, low-lying baixa. Shady sidewalk crocs in the river below, dodge buffaloes and
cafes offer an ideal spot to watch the pass- elephants on a boating safari, and ensconce
ing scene, and the city’s pulsating nightlife, yourself in luxurious boutique-style digs at
good shopping, rewarding museums and wonderful Mkulumadzi Camp (pictured, be-
fine array of restaurants all beckon, making low). Majete – a conservation model for others
any visit here a pleasure. to follow – is home to the Big Five, including
Malawi’s first reintroduced lion pride.
11
DIEGO LEZAMA/GETTY IMAGES ©
12
JOHN WARBURTON-LEE/GETTY IMAGES ©
1 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (pp78, 165, 218)
Currencies When to Go
Zambia Zambian # Lusaka Pemba #
kwacha (ZMW) GO year-round GO Apr–Dec
Mozambique Mozam- # Lilongwe
bican new metical (Mtc) # Livingstone GO year-round
Malawi Malawian GO year-round # Blantyre
kwacha (MK) GO year-round
Languages Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons
Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Zambia English, African Desert, dry climate
languages
Mozambique Maputo
Portuguese, African # GO year-round
languages
Malawi English, African High Season Shoulder Low Season
languages (Jun–Oct) (Apr, May, Nov & (Jan–Mar)
Dec)
Money ¨¨Weather ¨¨Heavy rains make
throughout is cooler ¨¨An ideal travel secondary roads
ATMs are found in cities and dry. time, with green muddy and some
and major towns. Away ¨¨August can be landscapes, though areas inaccessible.
from cities, credit cards crowded, with higher watch for muddy (or ¨¨It seldom rains
aren’t often accepted prices. impassable) roads, all day, every day;
(or involve surcharges). ¨¨Animal spotting is especially in April, landscapes are lush
easiest from August before the rains have and green.
Visas to October, due to dried out.
sparse foliage and ¨¨Peak-season prices
All Mozambique visas animals congregating from mid-December
should be arranged in around dwindling to mid-January and at
advance. Otherwise, water sources. Easter.
single-entry visas, where
required, are available
at major international
airports and at many
land borders.
Driving
Drive on the left in all
three countries.
15
Useful Websites Mobile Phones ¨¨All-inclusive safari PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now
packages: from US$200 per
BBC News – Africa (www. Local SIM cards can be used person per day
bbc.com/news/world/africa) in (unlocked) European and
Keeping a finger on Southern Australian phones; others must Arriving
Africa’s pulse. be set to roaming. Starter packs in Zambia,
Club of Mozambique (www. and top-up vouchers are widely Mozambique &
clubofmozambique.com) and inexpensively available. Malawi
Mozambique news and tourism
info. Exchange Rates Lusaka International Airport
(p43; Zambia) Taxis to centre:
Integrated Regional Informa- For exchange rates, see p79 ZMW200 to ZMW250.
tion Network (www.irinnews. (Zambia), p167 (Mozambique)
org/afrique/southern-africa) and p220 (Malawi). Current ex- Maputo International Airport
Regional humanitarian news. change rates are at www.xe.com. (p112; Mozambique) Taxis to
Lonely Planet (www. centre: Mtc400 to Mtc500.
lonelyplanet.com) Destination Your Daily Budget
information, hotel bookings, Lilongwe International Airport
traveller forum and more. The following provides a rough (p221; Malawi) Taxis to centre:
RoundTrip Foundation (www. guideline. Malawi tends to be US$35.
roundtripfoundation.org.au) cheaper, Zambia and Mozam-
Turn your travel in Southern bique pricier. What to Pack
Africa into sustainable change
for local communities. Budget: Less than Binoculars and a field guide
Safari Bookings (www. US$50 Torch (flashlight) There’s no
safaribookings.com) Online ¨¨Room in basic budget electricity in the bush.
safari-planning resource with a guesthouse: US$10–30
focus on sustainable travel. ¨¨Local-style meal: less than Mosquito repellent, net and
US$5 malaria prophylaxis
Important ¨¨Ask about low-season and Zoom lens and extra storage
Numbers children’s discounts chips
Travel insurance
In all three countries, mobile Midrange: US$50–200 Wind- and waterproof jacket
numbers are six digits plus a ¨¨Double room in midrange Yellow-fever-vaccination
four-digit provider code. There hotel: US$50–150 certificate
are no central police or other ¨¨Meal in Western-style Visa card For accessing cash
emergency numbers. restaurant: US$15–20 at ATMs.
¨¨Wildlife safari: from US$150 Portuguese phrasebook For
Zambia country %260 per person per day visiting Mozambique.
code %258 ¨¨Vehicle rental: from US$80
%265 per day
Mozambique %00
country code Top End: More than
US$200
Malawi country ¨¨Upmarket hotel room: from
code US$150
International
access code (all)
For much more on
getting around,
see pp83, 171, 223
16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
If You Like…
Wildlife you’ll find fine white sand, Lake Tanganyika Perfect white
dunes, palms and a languid sandy beaches line this expan-
Zambia is the big wildlife- ambience. Inland, Lake sive lake, with its crystal-clear
watching drawcard, but Malawi’s tranquil shoreline waters and tropical fish. (p69)
Mozambique and Malawi has been drawing travellers
have their own allure. for decades. Chilling Out
South Luangwa National Park Tofo A lovely arc of white sand
Abundant wildlife, wonderful with azure waters, and surfing Whether it’s laid-back
scenery and walking safaris. and diving opportunities with backpacker vibes, upmarket
(p46) manta rays and whale sharks. island-lodge pampering or
Kafue National Park A vast (p120) bush-camp chic, Zambia,
wilderness known especially for Chidenguele High, vegetated Mozambique and Malawi
its wildlife-packed Serengeti-like dunes back a long, wide beach have relaxation down to a
grasslands. (p58) that stretches to the horizon in fine art.
Lower Zambezi National Park both directions. (p118) Nkwichi Lodge Spend a night
Canoe safaris, riverine vistas, Pomene A stunning estuarine here, or three, revelling in the
swimming elephants and fantas- setting and rewarding birding remoteness, snorkelling in
tic scenery. (p53) are among the draws at this crystal-clear waters and kayak-
Gorongosa National Park An- often-overlooked spot on the ing past quiet coves. (p151)
telope, elephants and a sublime southern Mozambique coast. Bazaruto Archipelago Lodges
setting. (p131) (p123) Take your pick – all are lovely
Liwonde National Park Crocs, Ponta d’Ouro Mozambique’s patches of luxury amid the
hippos and elephants in an southernmost tip features a stunning, natural setting of
enchanting Shire River location. long, dune-fringed beach with Bazaruto Archipelago National
(p200) reliable surf and the chance to Park. (p126)
Kasanka National Park spot dolphins. (p114) Lake Kariba Spend a few
Swamplands and sitatungas, Bazaruto Archipelago Idyllic low-key days at this beautiful
plus the mind-blowing bat islands are rimmed by relaxing artificial lake enjoying sunset
migration in November. (p65) beaches and turquoise waters cruises and walks along the dam
Majete Wildlife Reserve Re abounding in marine life. (p126) wall. (p56)
introduced lions, along with crocs, Vilankulo Horseback riding Likoma Island This jewel
elephants and rhinos in one of along the beach and kitesurfing in Lake Malawi has sublime
Malawi’s best reserves. (p213) are among the highlights of crescent bays, views across the
the coastline around Vilankulo. water to Mozambique and a
Beaches (p124) delightfully slow pace. (p191)
Lake Malawi Cape Maclear, with Nkhata Bay Chill out in a reed
The region’s best beaches its golden sands and exclusive hut on the beach at one of
are in Mozambique, where Mumbo Island, is just one of Malawi’s classic down-time
many enjoyable spots along the destinations. (p189)
Lake Malawi shoreline. (p149)
17
JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © Lake Tanganyika Laze on the
pristine sands of this serene lake
in between snorkelling and kayak
trips. (p69)
History & Culture PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like…
FEDOR SELIVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © Early Bantu-speaking mi-
grants, later influxes from
Top: Aerial view of Victoria Falls (p85) over the chasm separating Zambia and Arabia, India and the Ori-
Zimbabwe ent, and European colonial-
Bottom: Street view, Maputo (p104), Mozambique ists – all have left their mark
on the region’s history and
cultures.
Mozambique Island Step back
through the centuries in this his-
torical treasure trove and cultural
melting pot. (p142)
Ibo Island With its fortress,
silversmiths and crumbling
colonial-era mansions, Ibo Island
is caught in an enchanting time
warp. (p156)
Livingstonia Stroll around the
old stone buildings for a glimpse
of this 19th-century Scottish mis-
sion’s fascinating past. (p184)
Maputo Whether it’s taking
a walking tour through lively
Mafalala neighbourhood, explor-
ing the bustling baixa (old town)
or watching for revolutionary-
themed murals, the Mozambique
capital’s history is present at
every turn. (p104)
Kungoni Centre of Culture &
Art Malawian history and culture
come alive here, especially in the
vibrant murals of the Chamare
Museum. (p196)
Kuomboka Ceremony Now that
there’s a road out here, there’s no
excuse to miss this annual ritual
of the Lozi people of western
Zambia. (p63)
Shiwa Ng’andu A 1920s English
mansion in the middle of the
Zambian bush is something that
has to be seen to be believed.
(p67)
18
plains, and offers lovely scenery tamer, but has some quirky
and easy access. (p211) gems.
Landscapes &
Viphya Plateau Sweeping Northern Mozambique Sail by
PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… Nature valleys and cool forests are dhow past remote islands or
the highlights of this stunning venture into trackless bush in
In all three countries, highland area. (p192) the interior. (p138)
diversity and beauty will Nyika Plateau Enjoy Nyika Pla- Chimanimani Mountains Get
surround you. teau’s grasslands and wildflow- to know local culture while hik-
ers on a multiday guided hike ing through lush, seldom-visited
Mutinondo Wilderness from Livingstonia. (p185) forest areas. (p133)
Mutinondo offers wide vistas
and soul-stirring landscapes
dotted with huge purple-hued
inselbergs and laced with me Ngonye Falls This remote, 1km- Kalambo Falls Hike to the top of
andering rivers. (p66) wide chain of waterfalls, rapids Africa’s second-highest single-
and rocky islands is stunningly
Inhambane This Mozambican beautiful. (p63) drop waterfall. (p70)
province’s long coastline is Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve
known for its palm-fringed Adventure & Off Malawi’s mainstream tourist
beaches, its flamingos and Offbeat Travel track, this intriguing reserve is
waterbirds, and its picturesque awash with buffaloes, elephants
dhows. (p118) Few regions are so ideally and hippos. (p186)
Victoria Falls Thundering suited to adventure travel Liuwa Plain National Park
Victoria Falls is one of the most as this one. In Zambia, These remote grasslands host
breathtaking natural spectacles almost anywhere outside vast herds of wildebeest and
on earth. (p85) Lusaka is remote, while exceptionally large and numer-
Mt Mulanje This towering hulk northern Mozambique is ous hyenas. (p62)
of twisted granite – Malawi’s one of the continent’s last Mt Namúli Fit hikers will enjoy
‘Island in the Sky’ – rises up ma- travel frontiers. Malawi is this challenging but scenic peak
jestically from the surrounding well off the beaten track near
Gurúè. (p138)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 19
Month by Month
TOP EVENTS February z N’cwala (Zambia)
Kusefya Pangwena,
August (Zambia) The rains are now in full The Ngoni people hold this
force, with the occasional thanksgiving or ‘first fruits’
Lake of Stars Music tropical storm and high festival in late February
Festival, October humidity along the coast. near Chipata in eastern
(Malawi) Secondary roads are Zambia. There’s plenty of
muddy, and getting around food, dance and music for
Mt Mulanje Porters away from main roads can celebrating the approach-
Race, July (Malawi) be a challenge. ing end of the rainy season
Marrabenta Fes- and to pray for a successful
tival, February z Gwaza Muthini harvest.
(Mozambique)
Festival Azgo, May (Mozambique) April
(Mozambique) This early-February cel-
ebration in Marracuene The long rains are
January (25km north of Maputo) tapering off, with green
commemorates colonial landscapes everywhere
January throughout the resisters who lost their and still-muddy roads.
region is warm, wet and lives in the 1895 Battle of Visitor numbers increase in
ideal for birding. Despite Marracuene. It also marks connection with the Easter
the humidity and the the start of the season of holidays. Birding is at its
rains, the early part of ukanhi, a traditional brew best, and Victoria Falls is
the month still sees many made from the fruit of the swathed in spray.
visitors enjoying the New canhoeiro (marula) tree.
Year’s peak-season holiday z Kuomboka
period. 3 Marrabenta
(Zambia)
z Viphya Orchid Festival Kuomboka is celebrated by
(Mozambique) the Lozi people of western
Weekend (Malawi) To hear marrabenta – Mo- Zambia at the end of the
Among the forests of the Vi- zambique’s national mu- rainy season to mark the
phya Plateau, Luwawa For- sic – at its best, don’t miss journey of their litunga
est Lodge has a calendar of the annual Marrabenta (king) from his compound
annual events that begins Festival. It’s held mostly in on the Zambezi flood plains
with a weekend focusing Maputo but also takes place to higher ground. Dates
on the plateau’s profuse in Beira, Inhambane and vary. (p63)
orchids. (p193) several other locations. The
timing is set to coincide
with Marracuene’s Gwaza
Muthini commemorations.
(p105)
20
PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month May Island in Mozambique’s Along the coast, hotels
Quirimbas Archipelago. may fill, with peak-season
Cooler, drier weather Events include traditional prices.
throughout the region music and dance, and
makes May a delightful dhow races. z Kusefya
time to travel, although
secondary roads may still July Pangwena (Zambia)
be difficult to negotiate in At Kusefya Pangwena,
some areas. Prime wildlife-watching northern Zambia’s Bemba
season is just around the people celebrate their 1830s
z Festival Azgo corner, with the weather victory over the marauding
continuing to be cool and Ngoni with a program of
(Mozambique) dry. Humpback whales music, drama and dance.
This Maputo-based extrav- have reached Mozambican The festival is held near
aganza has become Mo- waters on their migration Kasama over four days in
zambique’s largest arts and up from Antarctica. August.
culture festival, featuring
artists from Mozambique 2 Lake Malawi z Chamare Day
as well as elsewhere in the
region. (p105) International Sailing (Malawi)
Marathon (Malawi) Mua’s Kungoni Centre of
June This week-long June–July Culture & Art is fascinat-
sailing extravaganza on ing year-round, but this
The entire region is now Lake Malawi – claimed by celebration of Malawian
settling in to enjoy the promoters to be one of the culture sends it into over-
cool, dry weather. June is longest freshwater sailing drive, with performances
generally a comfortable, competitions in the world – of Chewa, Yao and Ngoni
uncrowded time to travel, covers about 500km, from song, dance and theatre.
although the sea along the Mangochi in the south to Courses on history and
southernmost coast can be the Chintheche Strip in the culture are also offered in
windy and choppy. north. this century-old Roman
Catholic mission.
2 Luwawa 2 Mt Mulanje
2 Cape Maclear
International Porters Race (Malawi)
Mountain Bike Race Originally only for Mt Triathlon (Malawi)
(Malawi) Mulanje porters, this 22km Inaugurated in 2015, this
Running along the ridges rocky run across rivers and swimming, cycling and
of the Viphya Mountains, gorges to the 2500m-high running contest includes
this tough 50km race is Chambe Plateau now has both the lake and the na-
popular with experienced an international follow- tional park, and the week-
South African riders. Like ing. Hikers typically take end in late August puts
them, after crossing the fin- around 13 hours to finish Cape Maclear in a party
ish line you can tackle the the route; the runners do it mood. Proceeds go to local
three-day wilderness trail in three. (p211) NGOs and charities.
down to Lake Malawi.
September
z Ibo Island Day August Clear, dry weather, minimal
foliage and dwindling
(Kueto Siriwala) Humpback whales are now rivers make September
readily spotted along much one of the best months
(Mozambique) of the Mozambican coast. for wildlife watching,
June 24 marks the feast Although dolphins are as animals congregate
of St John the Baptist, seen year-round, August around scarce water
which is now celebrated tends to be particularly sources.
with great gusto as Kueto favourable for sightings.
Siriwala (‘to not forget
your roots’) day on Ibo
3 Kugoma z Mafalala Festival 21
(Mozambique) music festival features live (Mozambique) PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
This festival (http://kugo- acts from around Africa Held annually between late
mashortfilms.wixsite.com/ and Europe. It takes place October and late November,
kugoma) showcases short in a different lakeshore this festival showcases
films from throughout the venue each year, with pro- Maputo’s rich artistic and
Southern Africa region, ceeds benefiting charity. cultural legacy, focusing es-
with many free screenings (p217) pecially on the city’s lively
and discussion forums held Mafalala neighbourhood.
in and around Maputo. 3 Likoma Festival See www.iverca.org.
October (Malawi) December
Malawi’s largest desert
Prime wildlife-watching island brings the party to Along the coast, changing
season continues into dry, its shores by organising winds have brought
warm October, with water a barbecue- and music- calmer seas. Whale-
sources scarce and wildlife packed lake cruise from shark sightings tend
plentiful. It’s an ideal time Monkey Bay, for a weekend to be particularly good
to travel – very hot in the of cultural performances now, during the height of
interior, but moderate and beach sports. summer. Diving conditions
along the coast and with are also optimal, with
jacarandas abloom in the November calmer seas and warmer
highlands. temperatures.
November marks the end
3 Lake of Stars of the dry season and
the start of the hottest
Music Festival weather before the rains
(Malawi) arrive. With the start of the
One of the region’s largest rains come muddy roads,
spectacles, this three-day as well as calving season
for many animals.
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd DIETMAR TEMPS/500PX ©
Plan Your Trip
Itineraries
Kafue ZAMBIA
National
Park
÷#
É LUSAKA ZLaomwbeerzi MOZAMBIQUE
Lochinvar _# National
National Park Park
É É
#÷ É ÷#
É
É
É
É
É
•# Siavonga
Lake Kariba
É
NAMIBIA Livingstone •# ZIMBABWE
Victoria Falls
2WEEKS Wildlife & Waterfalls
This itinerary encompasses several continuing westwards to the wetlands at
of the region’s highlights: wildlife, the Lochinvar National Park, renowned for
majestic Victoria Falls and Lake Kariba, birding and its lechwe population. Over-
one of the world’s largest artificial lakes. night at the Moorings Campsite.
Start in Lusaka, Zambia’s gateway. Then The next stop is historic Livingstone,
journey southeast to Lower Zambezi Na- gateway to thundering Victoria Falls,
tional Park, one of Africa’s finest wilderness where you can do some canoe trips or
regions, to spot wildlife along the Zambezi. white-water rafting. Next head northeast
to K afue National Park via its south
Navigate southwest to Siavonga on Dundumwezi Gate. Spend the first night at
sparkling Lake Kariba and relax by the Konkamoya Lodge overlooking Lake Itezhi-
water. From Siavonga, retrace your steps Tezhi, then a few days heading north into
northwest towards Kafue junction, before the park for excellent birding and wildlife.
From here it’s a day’s travel back to Lusaka.
23 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
Top: Victoria FallsMAKSYM KALYTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(p85)
Bottom: Lodge
restaurant, Kafue
National Park (p58),
Zambia
/ GETTY IMAGES ©
24
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
ANGOLA DREEPMCULOOZBUANCLMGRSICAOBATSIOAKIoCFNuAath_#tioLnuaalnNPgakwCrhkaWRhoL#÷tieipIaslLdakeOrtoliavtfNaeNe•#GkhSWB#_a÷#eatEnay•#g•#•#a•#M•#IL•#BACMsiLlakóLaeTAyobniAtWcmaduNh•#CInèaZiungAaguNNmalIaaÉAmbapu•#la Quirimbas
É •# Archipelago
•# Pemba
‚
É
É
É
É
É
•# Mozambique
Island
MOZAMBIQUE É
ZIMBABWE
NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA É
SOUTH
AFRICA
_# MAPUTO
SWAZILAND
25
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © 6WEEKS Zambia, Mozambique
& Malawi Sampler
Exploring all three countries in a single trip PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
makes for an excellent journey. Given the
JACOJVR/GETTY IMAGES © distances involved, it’s best to plan out a
general route in advance, and to allow a bit
Top: Lionesses and cubs, South Luangwa of extra time just in case.
National Park (p46), Zambia
Start in Lusaka, getting your bearings and
Bottom: Low tide at Pemba (p151), Mozambique becoming acquainted with this low-key capital,
before taking a flight (or enduring a long bus
journey) to South Luangwa National Park.
This is one of Zambia’s premier parks, with an
incredible density of animals. Plan on at least
three days here, taking in night drives, daytime
wildlife drives and a walking safari or two be-
fore continuing on via the busy but agreeable
town of Chipata to the Zambia–Malawi border,
from where it’s just over 100km to Lilongwe.
Stop to grab some Malawian kwacha and have
a good meal before continuing east to meet
the mighty Lake Malawi in laid-back Senga
Bay, which has some good beachfront lodges.
While exploring the lake, don’t miss a detour to
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, which offers
an accessible experience of the bush with the
chance of seeing elephants, antelope and even
lions.
Nkhata Bay, with its chilled vibe and many
water-based activities, is the perfect place to
relax and take a diving course. From here, catch
the ferry to Likoma Island to explore the lake’s
crystal waters, visit the historic cathedral and
enjoy the serene island pace. From Likoma, it’s
straightforward to continue over to Cóbuè, a
short sail away on Mozambique’s wild north-
western lake coast. Once in Cóbuè, you could
continue by pre-arranged charter boat to lovely
Nkwichi Lodge, or make your way south to-
wards Metangula and on to Lichinga. Spend
a day or two in Lichinga, with its jacarandas
and cool temperatures, before travelling to
Cuamba, starting point of the classic 10-hour
train ride east to Nampula. Nampula, in turn,
is the jumping-off point for magical Mozam-
bique Island, a Unesco World Heritage Site
and Africa highlight, with its cobbled streets,
colonial-era architecture and constant backdrop
of turquoise seas. You’ll likely want to linger at
least two or three days here, perhaps longer, be-
fore heading north to Pemba and the Quirim-
bas Archipelago, or south towards Maputo.
26 DOC STAR/500PX ©
3WEEKS Beaches & Islands JOHN SEATON CALLAHAN/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR OPEN ©
Mozambique has some of the most enticing Top: Lake Malawi at Cape Maclear (p196)
coastline on the continent. Combine Bottom: Old church on Mozambique Island (p142),
exploration of its northern highlights with
visits to Lake Malawi’s alluring islands and Mozambique
inland beaches for an adventurous but
relaxing itinerary.
The beach town of Pemba, in northern Mozam-
bique, makes a good starting point. Spend a few
days here getting acclimatised and enjoying the
vibe. Don’t miss nearby Murrébuè, with its
kitesurfing, quiet, white sand and turquoise-
hued ocean vistas. Next, set off for enchant-
ing Ibo Island, a regional highlight, with its
massive star-shaped fort, its silversmiths and
its crumbling colonial-era mansions. After
wandering and enjoying Ibo’s pace, charter a
dhow for several days to explore one of the other
nearby islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago.
Quirimbas Island is a good place to start: you
can walk here from Ibo at low tide with a guide,
and then return by boat. Once you manage to
tear yourself away from the charms of the archi-
pelago, turn south – the most straightforward
route will take you via Pemba – to the crowded
regional hub of Nampula. If you arrive early
enough in Nampula, it’s possible to avoid over-
nighting here, continuing the same day on to
Mozambique Island. Plan at least several days
exploring this Unesco World Heritage Site.
Once back on the mainland, you will need to
pass through Nampula for an overnight, before
catching the train west to Cuamba. The ride
isn’t anywhere near the coast, but it’s scenic and
offers fascinating glimpses of local life. After an
overnight in Cuamba (where the train arrives late
afternoon), continue into Malawi via the Man-
dimba border post, and then travel straight on to
Lake Malawi. Cape Maclear makes a conveni-
ent first stop, with many options for snorkelling,
kayaking and relaxing.
From Cape Maclear, the route turns north to-
wards the scenic beachside outpost of Nkhata
Bay, with its fine selection of lodges, kayaking,
swimming and diving. From Nkhata Bay, it’s
possible to detour to beautiful Chizumulu
Island and Likoma Island, where the high-
lights are the scenery, the local life, the relaxed
pace and Likoma’s historic cathedral. Once
you’ve had your fill, travel south to Blantyre
for a day or two getting acquainted with the
city before heading home.
27
TANZANIA
Nkhata
Bay
ZAMBIA •# •# Ibo Island
& Quirimbas
•# Chizumulu & Archipelago
Likoma Islands
É
É
É •# Pemba
MALAWI ÉCapeMOZAMBIQUE•# Murrébuè
Maclear
É•#
É
Cuamba •# Mozambique
•# Island
•# É
Nampula
ÉÉ
•#
Blantyre
ZIMBABWE
28
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
NatNiPoyanikrakal #÷ Livingstonia TANZANIA
•#
ZAMBIA ÉÉ Nkhata
DEMOCRATIC Bay
REPUBLIC OF •#
THE CONGO
É
ZIMBABWE
•# Chizumulu &
Likoma Island
MALAWI Mumbo Island MOZAMBIQUE
•# Cape Maclear
•#
Zomba #÷ Liwonde Park
Plateau National
É
•#
Blantyre •# Zomba
Majete ÷# É •#É •#R Mt Mulanje
Mulanje
Wildlife
Reserve
29
JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © 4WEEKS Malawi Odyssey
Whether you start in the north or south, PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
this is the ultimate Malawi journey, taking in
LMSPENCER/SHUTTERSTOCK © mountains, wilderness, historical riches and
the lake with its beaches. It’s best done in a
Top: Elephant, Liwonde National Park (p200), Malawi month, to allow time for side trips, but in a
Bottom: Nkhata Bay (p189), Malawi pinch you could squeeze it into three weeks.
Fly into Blantyre and spend a day or so accli-
matising, while getting to grips with local his-
tory at the Museum of Malawi and the Society of
Malawi Library & Archive. If you have time, you
could make an easy detour southwest to Majete
Wildlife Reserve for a few days of pampered
wildlife watching, before continuing to Mu-
lanje for a multiday hike across Mt Mulanje,
the country’s highest peak. Recover by spending
time in an old planter’s house on one of southern
Malawi’s many tea estates, and head north to
the colonial gem of Zomba. Here, enjoy a day or
two of walking on the misty Zomba Plateau,
perhaps finding time for a horseback trot to the
plateau’s viewpoints and waterfalls.
From Zomba, make your way north to nearby
Liwonde National Park, its lovely scenery
dominated by the wide, meandering Shire Riv-
er. There are hippos and crocs aplenty, various
antelope species and zebras, as well as canoe,
riverboat and walking safaris on offer. When
your binoculars are exhausted, head for the lake
and the resort village of Cape Maclear. Budget
at least three days here, with an overnight visit
to Mumbo Island in Lake Malawi National
Park and time kayaking and swimming with
the brilliantly coloured fish.
Next, make your way up the lakeshore to
Nkhata Bay, Malawi’s other famous lakeside
resort. As in Cape Maclear, you can snorkel,
kayak, take a PADI course at the local dive
school, and hang out at the beach bar. From
Nkhata Bay you could detour to Chizumulu
Island and Likoma Island, or continue north
to lovely Nyika National Park, the country’s
largest, to explore wild, flower-carpeted grass-
lands reminiscent of the Yorkshire moors on
foot or by mountain bike. Finally, it’s time to
plunge into history at Livingstonia, a quiet
hilltop town that provides a glimpse of Malawi’s
colonial-era past. From Livingstonia, continue
north into Tanzania (and from there to Zambia),
or retrace your steps south, perhaps continuing
to Mozambique or Zambia.
30
TANZANIA •#Moçimboa da Praia
ANGOLA MOZAMBIQUE •# Quirimbas Archipelago
ZAMBIA & Ibo Island
BOTSWANA •# Pemba
MALAWI É
É
Nampula •# Mozambique
•# Island
•#Gurúè
É
ZIMBABWE Gorongosa •#
National Quelimane
Chimoio•#P÷#arkÉ
Chimanimani É •# Beira
Mountains R
BazarutoÉ
•#Archipelago
SOUTH Vilankulo •#
AFRICA
Barra
•#
Inhambane •#•#Tofo
É
_# MAPUTO
•# Ponta d'Ouro
2MONTHS Mozambique
Grand Tour
To explore Mozambique from south to north (north to south works just as well) in
a grand overland tour, allow at least two months. With more limited time, it’s easy
enough to choose sections from the following itinerary, perhaps taking a flight or
two to break up the longer stretches.
Note that as of late 2016, political skirmishes in central Mozambique have made overland
travel difficult in some areas. Check for updates on government travel websites.
Starting in the far south, spend time enjoying the wonderful beach at Ponta d’Ouro
before continuing on to the lively, culture-packed capital of Maputo. Here, the many muse-
ums, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and craft shops will keep you busy for at least several days.
Continue north to Inhambane, with its flamingos, dhows and wonderful nearby
beaches, including Tofo and Barra. Further north, Vilankulo is an amenable spot and
also the springboard to the Bazaruto Archipelago, with its diving and upmarket lodges.
From Vilankulo, continue north to Beira, spending a day or two in this old port city before
heading west to Chimoio, the best base for organising hiking in the Chimanimani Moun-
tains. Allow four days or more, including transport, for the excursion. Once back in Chimoio,
make your way northeast to lovely Gorongosa National Park. For all stops in this part of
central Mozambique, get an update on the security situation before setting your plans.
The route continues north via Quelimane, with its nearby beaches and coconut plan-
tations, and bustling, crowded Nampula to Mozambique Island – a gem of a place,
where it’s easy to spend at least two or three days taking in the sights. A recommended
diversion en route is to scenic, mountainous Gurúè, with its cool climate, jacarandas, tea
plantations and hiking.
Continue north to Pemba and the nearby beaches before travelling to the Quirimbas
Archipelago. All the islands are lovely, with Ibo a highlight. Sail back to the mainland,
and continue north to Moçimboa da Praia – a pleasant stop for a day or three – and on
into Tanzania.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31
Countries Zambia
at a
Glance Safaris
Adventure
Zambia, Mozambique and Malawi combine to Waterfalls
make an alluringly diverse destination. With
at least a month, you could sample all three Wildlife
countries in one trip. But getting around takes A wealth of animals and
time, and it’s better to focus on getting to a network of bush camps
know one or two areas in depth rather than make Zambia one of South-
trying to take in too much on one visit. ern Africa’s most alluring
wildlife-watching desti-
For wildlife, Zambia tops the list, with vast nations. South Luangwa
tracts of animal-filled bush. Majestic Victoria N ational Park is the high-
Falls is another major draw, and one of the light, but there are many
continent’s highlights. For culture, Malawi is more, including Kafue and
one of the most accessible destinations. It’s Lower Zambezi National
also a relatively easy introduction to Southern Parks.
Africa for first-time visitors. Mozambique of-
fers outstanding beaches, idyllic islands and – Remote Destinations
in the north – the chance for real adventure Outside Lusaka almost
travel. everywhere in Zambia is
bush. While the country can
be difficult to get around,
this remoteness is one of
Zambia’s main draws. Once
you’re out in the wild, the
logistical hassles fade away
as the raw beauty of Zam-
bia’s landscapes takes over.
Victoria Falls
The world’s largest water-
fall assaults the senses:
get drenched by the spray,
fill your ears with its roar
and feast your eyes on its
magnificence. Whether you
raft the rapids, cruise the
Zambezi or simply stand
awestruck on the side-
lines, Victoria Falls is one
of Africa’s unforgettable
destinations.
p34
32
PLAN YOUR TRIP Countries at a Glance Mozambique Malawi
Beaches Nature
Culture & History Beaches
Adventure Landscapes
Islands & Wildlife
Archipelagos With three major reserves
From the pounding surf and (Majete, Liwonde and
windswept dunes of Ponta Nkhot akota) managed by
d’Ouro to the turquoise the excellent African Parks,
waters and powdery white Malawi now has lions, as
sand of the Quirimbas Ar- well as representatives of
chipelago, Mozambique of- the rest of the ‘Big Five’.
fers some of the continent’s Add to this some fine safari
best beaches. Fringing the lodges and the country mer-
coastline are alluring archi- its packing your binoculars.
pelagos and magical islands,
with Mozambique Island at Lakeshore Beaches
the top of the list. Lake Malawi offers relaxing
beaches and mountain-
Local Culture & backed panoramas. Cape
History Maclear – a legendary back-
After being suppressed by packer hang-out – is one of
war, Mozambique’s colour- the most popular spots to
ful cultures have come back appreciate the lake. Nkhata
with full force. Sample this Bay is another, and there
vibrancy in Maputo, with are many more.
its array of dance, theatre
and other cultural offerings. Plateaus, Waterfalls
Follow history’s footsteps at & Tea Plantations
Mozambique Island and Ibo From the forests and val-
Island. leys of the Viphya Plateau
to the wildflowers and
Frontier Travel grasslands of the Nyika Pla-
Northern Mozambique is teau and the waterfall-riven
one of the continent’s last slopes of the Zomba Plateau
adventure frontiers. Sail on and Livingstonia, Malawi’s
a dhow to magical islands, landscapes are stunning.
relax on pristine beaches or In the far south, make time
track wildlife in the interior. for the granite massif and
Adventure is everywhere. emerald-green tea planta-
tions in the Mulanje area.
p101
p174
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
On the
Road
Zpa3m4bia Mpa17la4wi
Victoria Falls Mozambique
p85 p101
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Zambia
POP 15.5 MILLION
Includes Why Go?
Lusaka........................... 35 The rewards of travelling in Zambia are those of exploring
South Luangwa r emote, mesmerising wilderness as full of an astonishing diver-
National Park ............... 46 sity of wildlife as any part of Southern Africa. Adventures un-
North Luangwa dertaken here will lead you deep into the bush where animals,
National Park ............... 52 both predators and prey, wander through unfenced camps,
Lower Zambezi where night-time means swapping stories around the fire and
National Park................ 53 where the human footprint is nowhere to be seen. Where one
Kafue National Park..... 58 day you can canoe down a wide, placid river and the next raft
Understand Zambia...... 73 through the raging rapids near world-famous Victoria Falls.
Survivial Guide.............. 78
Though landlocked, three great rivers – the Kafue, the
Best Places to Luangwa and the Zambezi – flow through Zambia, defining
Sleep both its geography and the rhythms of life for many of its
people. For the independent traveller, however, Zambia is
¨¨Chizombo (p48) a logistical challenge, because of its sheer size, dilapidated
¨¨Chiawa Camp (p55) road network and upmarket facilities. For those who do ven-
¨¨Kapishya Hot Springs ture here, the relative lack of crowds means an even more
Lodge (p67) satisfying journey.
¨¨Ndole Bay Lodge (p70)
¨¨Mukambi Plains Camp When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
(p59) 12/300
Lusaka
Best Places to
Eat °C/°F Temp
¨¨Sugarbush Cafe (p39) 40/104
¨¨Courtyard Café (p72)
¨¨Luangwa Bridge 30/86 8/200
Camp (p46) 20/68 4/100
¨¨Thorn Tree 10/50
Guesthouse (p68)
0/32 MAM J 0
JF J ASOND
Late May–early Jun–Aug Dry, Nov–Apr Bloom-
Oct Dry season, cooler tem- ing landscapes
with prime wildlife peratures and during the rainy
viewing; tourist sometimes frosty (‘emerald’) season.
high season. nights. Wildebeest and bat
migration.
35
LUSAKA Sata died while in office; the latter’s tomb
will be completed in 2018. It’s an interesting
All roads lead to Lusaka, the geographic, enough sight, but the US$15 entry is a bit
commercial and metaphorical heart of Zam- steep, though does include a guided tour.
bia. However, the nation’s capital and larg-
est urban zone, with its mishmash of dusty Henry Tayali Visual Arts Centre GALLERY Z a m bia SL ui gshatksa
tree-lined streets, bustling African markets, (www.henrytayaliartgallery.wordpress.com; Show-
Soviet-looking high-rise blocks and modern grounds, Lion Lane; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
commerce, doesn’t easily justify exploration Sat & Sun) A lovely space exhibiting quality
by the casual visitor. There are no real at- contemporary works by local artists, and all
tractions, grand museums to drool over or are for sale.
historical treasures to unearth. Nonetheless,
for some, the city’s genuine African feel, cos- Namwandwe Gallery GALLERY
mopolitan populace and quality restaurants
and accommodation are reason enough to (%0976 608538, 0977 549802; www.namwandwe.
spend a night or two. If you feel like letting com; Leopards Hill Rd; by donation; h8am-6pm)
loose, expat bars and the home-grown night- Featuring the impressive private collection
club scene will see you through to the wee of businessman and patron of the arts John
hours. Kapotwe, Namwandwe is hands-down the
best in the country for contemporary Zambi-
an art. The gallery space is within his private
1 Sights home (an attraction in itself) and features
paintings, sculptures, masks and fabrics by
Lusaka National Park NATIONAL PARK both established and up-and-coming artists.
(%0955 472433; adult/child US$30/15) The idea It’s located 15km southeast of the city centre.
of seeing a rhino in the wild just 15km from
the capital seems absurd, but this new na-
tional park (opened in 2015) allows you to Lusaka National Museum MUSEUM
do just that. Set over 46 sq km, it’s home to (Nasser Rd; adult/child US$5/3; h9am-4.30pm)
This big square box of a building resembling
eland, zebra, giraffe and wildebeest, among a Soviet-era Moscow ministry has upstairs
others. But it’s the white rhino that brings galleries displaying exhibits on urban cul-
people here. While you’ll be able to tick it off ture and Zambian history as well cultural,
from the list of Big Five, most likely you’ll ethnographic and archaeological displays.
see them in their holding pen, so it can feel Contemporary Zambian paintings and
more like a zoo than national park. sculpture are shown downstairs.
Lilayi Elephant Nursery WILDLIFE RESERVE Lusaka City Market MARKET
(%0211-840435; www.lilayi.com; adult/child/u nder (Lumumba Rd; h7am-5pm) Fronted by the cha-
12yr ZMW50/20/free; h11.30am-1pm) On the
southern outskirts of town is this elephant otic and congested eponymously named bus
station, as well as a veritable Maginot Line
nursery set up by Game Rangers Interna- of sidewalk vendors, reaching the entrance
tional (a Zambian conservationist NGO), to the Lusaka City Market is an achievement
which works with rescuing and rehabilitat- in and of itself. Unfortunately, while large,
ing orphaned elephants in Kafue Nation- lively and packed to the rafters, the cloth-
al Park. You can see them being fed from ing and housewares sold in the warren of
11am to 1.30pm daily; Monday is free en- stalls aren’t of much interest to the average
try. You can also do wildlife drives on its traveller.
650-hectare property. There’s a lovely res-
taurant and lodge where, if you’re staying, 4 Sleeping
you can get a behind-the-scenes look at the
elephants. oNatwange Backpackers HOSTEL $
(%0966 303816, 0977 886240; www.natwange
backpackers.com; 6808 Kapuka Rd; dm/s/d incl
Presidential Burial Site breakfast with shared bathroom US$12/30/40;
National Monument MAUSOLEUM Ws) In quiet residential street, this lovely
(Embassy Park; adult/child US$15/7; h8.30am- and secure home offers a relaxed atmos-
4.30pm) This mausoleum is where the late
Zambian presidents Levy Patrick Mwanawa- phere for independent travellers. Rooms
are clean, though can be a little cramped,
sa (1948–2008), Frederick Chiluba (1943– and all share bathrooms. It has plenty of
2011) and Michael Sata (1937–2014) are
buried. Remarkably both Mwanawasa and lawn with fruit trees and a nice little pool
and gym. There are several lounge areas to
36
0 200 km
0 100 miles
LEGEND
NP National Park DEMOCRATIC
CA Conservation Area REPUBLIC OF
THE CONGO
Z a m bia LSZulasemeabpkiiaangH i g h l i g h t s
Mwinilunga Chimfunshi Kipushi
Wildlife Kasumbalesa
ANGOLA
Orphanage
Zambezi Solwezi
West Chililabombwe Mufulira
Lunga NP
Chingola
Kalulushi
Kitwe
Luanshya
Lake Kashiba
Kabompo NORTHWESTERN COPPERBELT
PROVINCE PROVINCE Mpongwe
Liuwa Plain Kafue Kafue River Kabwe
National Park National CENTRAL
PROVINCE
Park
Kaoma
Kalabo Limulunga Mumbwa
Lealui Mongu K a f u e F l a t s LUSAKA
WESTERN Lake Lochinvar Chilanga
PROVINCE Itezhi- NP Kafue
Tezhi
Namwala
Senanga SOUTHERN Nteme Monze
Kalongola PROVINCE
Shangombo Nkanga Chisekesi
ORkivaevrango Sioma
Ngonye Falls
River River CA Batoka Chipepo Kariba
Zambezi Kalomo
Choma Lake
Sioma Sinazongwe
Ngwezi Mosi-oa-
Sesheke Tunya NP Zimba Chete
NP Island
Kazungula Livingstone
Katima Victoria Falls
B8 Mulilo Kasane
NAMIBIA
Zambia Highlights
1 South Luangwa National 2 Zambezi River (p53) 3 Kafue National Park
Park (p46) Bushwalking like a Paddling a canoe down this (p58) Spotting leopards in this
detective following the tracks mighty river past pods of behemoth wilderness area
of wild animals. hippos, menacing-looking where wildlife dreams unfold
crocs and thirsty elephants. amid stunning landscapes.
Lake 37
Tanganyika
Kasanga TANZANIA
Kalambo Falls
Lake Mweru Wantipa Mpulungu
Mweru NP
Nsumbu Mbala
Kashikishi NP
Nchelenge Mporokoso Tunduma Mbeya
Lusenga Nakonde
Plain NP
Kawambwa NORTHERN Chitlpa Z a m bia SZL ulasemeabpkiiaangH i g h l i g h t s
PROVINCE
Chishimba Kasama Isoka
Falls
Kasenga
Mansa Lake Isangano Shiwa
Bangweulu NP Ng'andu
Escarpment
Samfya Kapishya
Bangweulu Hot Springs
LUAPULA Wetlands Lavushi- Mpika 1841m Mzuzu
PROVINCE Manda NP North Lake
Luangwa NP
Chikuni Malawi
Lake Muwele Mutinondo
LuRapivuelra Waka-Waka Wilderness 1850m MOZAMBIQUE
Kasanka Muchinga Luambe NP Lundazi
NP Kanona
South Luangwa
National Park
Mulembo 1788m Lukusuzi
Mfuwe NP
Ndola Serenje Nsefu
North Road iver MALAWI
Mkushi EASTERN
Great R Chipata
Kapiri CENTRAL LuangwPaetaukPeROVKaINteCteE Mchinji
LILONGWE
Mposhi PROVINCE Mlolo
Luangwa East Road Cassacatiza
Lower Bridge 548
Great
Zambezi 221
NP
103
Chongwe LUSAKA MOZAMBIQUE
Zambezi PROVINCE
River Luangwa
Chirundu Lago de Matema Blantyre
Siavonga Cahora Bassa Tete
Kariba Zambezi
A1
Chinhoyi
ZIMBABWE HARARE River
102
4 Lake Tanganyika (p69) 5 Liuwa Plain National 6 Shiwa Ng’andu (p67)
Lazing on white sandy Park (p62) Witnessing the Taking a step back in time and
beaches and snorkelling with wildebeest migration unfold at a leap to another continent at
tropical fish on this beautiful Zambia’s ‘mini Serengeti’. a remarkably well-preserved
lake in the country’s far north. English manor estate.
38
hang out, and a fully equipped kitchen for a manicured lawn. The 11 rooms are spa-
self-caterers. cious and simply furnished and manage-
ment is responsive to any requests. A perk
Tanuger Travels HOSTEL $ is free laundry for guests staying more than
(%0972 662588; www.tanuger.com; cnr Sibweni & a night.
Chigwilizano Rds; dm US$15, r US$60, with shared
bathroom US$40; Ws) Set up by a bunch of
local female friends, this funky and vibrant Bongwe Barn GUESTHOUSE $$
(%0973 589419; www.bongwesafaris.com/guest
Z a m bia SL ulseeapkiang hostel offers a homely, social and relaxed at- house.html; 609 Zambezi Rd, Roma; r US$55-75;
mosphere. There’s plenty of artwork about, Ws) If you’ve outgrown the whole back-
including graffiti-splashed walls, plus a packer scene, but still want something in-
swimming pool, firepit, giant chess board formal and homely – and social, if inclined
and free pool table. Its members-only bar is – then Bongwe’s your place. Run by UK ex-
one of the liveliest in town, and a great place pat Stacey, the staff here are exceptionally
to meet travellers and locals alike. friendly and helpful, and rooms (some of
which share bathrooms) are spotless and
Lusaka Backpackers HOSTEL $ spacious. There’s a stocked kitchen, couches
(%0977 805483; www.lusakabackpackers.com;
161 Mulombwa Cl; 4-/8-bed dm US$12/15, r US$55, in the living room and a sparkling pool to
relax by.
with shared bathroom US$40; iWs) One of
the more established and respected back-
packers in Lusaka, this place is deservedly Pioneer Camp CAMPGROUND, CHALET $$
(%0966 432700; www.pioneercampzambia.com;
popular with those on a budget. The centre- Palabana Rd, off Great East Rd; camping US$10, cha-
piece of activity is the patio area out front let with shared/private bathroom from US$88/132;
with a small pool and a tiki bar, which can Ws) An isolated 25-acre camp, surround-
get lively and loud, especially on weekends. ed by bird-rich woodland, Pioneer is the
Nearby is also its Wanderers Lodge, which accommodation of choice for many expats
offers cheaper rooms and camping. living outside Lusaka, especially those with
an early flight out of the country. Most of
Wanderers Lodge HOSTEL $ the widely dispersed and simply furnished
(%0971 763508; www.wandererslusaka.com; 848
Lagos Rd, Rhodes Park; camping US$5, dm/s/d thatch-roofed chalets have flagstone floors,
small verandas and large bathrooms. The
US$10/25/30; W) The sister lodge to the well-kept facilities for campers are up the
popular Lusaka Backpackers, this centrally
located lodge offers some of cheapest rooms front next to the small plunge pool.
in town, along with camping facilities. oLatitude 15 Degrees BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Eureka Camping Park CAMPGROUND, CHALET $ (%0211-268802; http://15.latitudehotels.com;
(%0977 803051, 0966 822448; www.eurekacamp. Leopards Lane, Kabulonga; s/d incl breakfast
com; Kafue Rd; camping US$14, dm US$20, r from US$244/297; aWs) Lusaka’s best accom-
US$60, with shared bathroom from US$40; Ws) modation is this fashionable hotel with
The grassy campsite here, shaded by big an architecturally designed building that
trees, is popular with overlanding groups. resembles a chic contemporary gallery.
The security is good, while the swimming Its rooms are plush with king-sized beds,
pool and bar (which sells burgers and break- standalone tubs, coffee makers, fast wi-fi,
fasts) are nice touches. There are braai fa- cable TV and plenty of art decorating its
cilities for cooking and charcoal for sale. walls. Guests also have access to the ‘O ther
Chalets are cool and comfortable and mod- Side’ executive members-only lounge. Its
elled on the traditional thatch hut. It’s about restaurant (mains ZMW140-180; h7-10am,
12km south of the city centre. noon-3pm & 6-9.30pm) is also very popular.
It’s just off Leopards Hill Rd.
Kilimanjaro Country Lodge LODGE $$ Wayside Bed & Breakfast GUESTHOUSE $$$
(%0955 611779, 0975 838461; www.kilimanjaro
zambia.com; Leopards Hill Rd; s/d incl breakfast (% 0211-273439; www.wayside-guesthouse.
com; 39 Makeni Rd, Makeni; s/d incl breakfast
US$85/100, mains ZMW50-100; hcafe 7am-8pm; US$80/120; Ws) This upmarket and peace-
Ws) A good out-of-town option – especial-
ly for groups and families – around 7.5km ful guesthouse is one of the best in Lusaka,
with only a handful of snug en-suite rooms.
east of the city centre, Kilimanjaro consists It used to be a farm and today the sizeable
of several well-kept, low-slung buildings on
grounds are devoted to the owners’ love
39
of gardening, and really are magnificent. oSugarbush Cafe INTERNATIONAL, ORGANIC $$
Three rooms in a separate cottage have air- (%0967 648761; www.facebook.com/sugar
conditioning and there’s a lounge with TV bushcafezam; Leopards Hill Rd, Sugarbush Farm;
and comfortable couches. breakfast ZMW40-75, mains ZMW75-120; h8am-
Southern Sun Ridgeway HOTEL $$$ 5pm Tue-Sat, 8.30am-4.30pm Sun; W) This
(%0211-251666; www.southernsun.com; cnr picture-postcard idyllic cafe is worth every
Church Rd & Independence Ave; s/d incl breakfast kwacha of the journey it takes to get here.
US$169/204; aWs) Deservedly popular Chill out for an afternoon at one of the pic- Z a m bia EL uast iankga
with in-the-know expats and a coterie of in- nic tables munching on homemade bread
ternational business and government types, and pastries, salads made with organic
the Southern Sun is a no-brainer for those homegrown vegetables, and expertly pre-
seeking an affordable low-key, comforta- pared sandwiches, pasta and meat dishes, as
ble city-centre option. Rooms are tastefully well as a glass of wine, or Pimms by the jug.
done in muted tones. A quality restaurant, Casa Portico ITALIAN $$
pub, small gym, large outdoor pool area and
free wi-fi round out the offerings. (%0211-250111; 27 Ngumbo Rd, Longacres; mains
from ZMW85; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight
Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun) Italian owned and op-
5 Eating erated, this garden restaurant offers as au-
thentic cuisine as you’ll get outside Italy.
oDeli CAFE, BAKERY $ There’s homemade pastas (go the tagliatelle
(Lunzua Rd, Rhodes Park; mains from ZMW25, cof- ragu), home-baked panini, and imported
fee ZMW14; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Italian cheeses and meats. It’s a good spot,
Sat; W) Boasting the best barista in Lusaka too, for a glass of Prosecco or well-made Ne-
(the winner of an international competition) groni cocktails.
as well as an enviable garden setting, the
Deli is a good place to plant yourself for a
few hours. The sophisticated kitchen turns Marlin STEAK $$
(%0211-252206; Los Angeles Blvd, Longacres
out all-day breakfasts like eggs and French Roundabout; mains ZMW85-110; hnoon-2.30pm &
toast, speciality sandwiches like Asian pork
meatball and classics like pastrami, wood- 7-10pm Mon & Wed-Sat, noon-2.30pm Tue) Housed
in the colonial-era Lusaka Club with decor
fired pizzas and homemade ice cream. that probably hasn’t been touched since the
Gigibontà GELATERIA $ ‘60s, this wood-panelled favourite serves
some of the best steaks in Lusaka. While
(Foxdale Court, Zambezi Rd; from ZMW16) Around it does serve gargantuan portions of every
the back of Foxdale Court shopping centre,
this small outlet makes delicious homemade cut of meat under the sun, most guests
come for the aged fillet with mushroom
gelato using fresh ingredients, with 26 fla- or pepper sauce. Reservations are strongly
vours to choose from. Proceeds go towards
funding local community projects. recommended.
Zambean Coffee CAFE $ 6 Drinking & Nightlife
(6 Nyati Close, Rhodes Park; coffee/sandwich-
es from ZMW17/70; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, oBongwe Pub & Grill PUB
to 1pm Sat; W) Run by a couple of friend- (www.facebook.com/bongwebarn; 609 Zambezi Rd,
Roma; h2pm-late) A favourite watering hole
ly Zimbabw ean expats, this lovely little for many locals, expats and tourists (and
garden cafe is a great spot to grab a well-
made Zambian coffee, a quality breakfast basically anyone who likes a drink) is this
tropical dive bar, set in an open-air shack
and gourmet sandwiches on home-baked centred around a palm tree. There’s a pool
breads. They also have a good list of South
African wines. table, sports on the TV and always someone
around for a chat. On Fridays it’s usually
pumping and regularly has local bands and
Lusaka Garden Club CAFE $ DJs.
(off Nangwenya Rd, Showgrounds; coffee ZMW12,
mains ZMW50; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) A lovely
little garden oasis within the Showgrounds Sky Bar BAR
that’s a nice to spot to relax with a filter
coffee, an Aussie lamington, sandwich, or (www.facebook.com/roma.sky.bar.lusaka; Foxdale
heartier meat and nshima dishes. Court, Zambezi Rd; h2pm-midnight) A decent
rooftop bar atop of Foxdale Court shop-
ping centre, Sky Bar attracts a young crowd
40
Lusaka RdChurch Rd B CD D
A # 16 Enlargement Irish Embassy (2km);
Chiparamba w Natwange Backpackers Paseli Rd
1 ww (3.5km)
Lubambe Rd
Z a m bia LDursi nakkiang & N i g h t l i fe Manchichi Rd
Cairo Rd
Chachacha Rd 66LimbeRd
28 # Heroes Pl Nchenja Rd
Nkwazi Rd Nairobi Pl
2 Train Makishi Rd 27
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42
Z a m bia SL uhsoapkpai ng Lusaka 24 German Embassy.................................... F5
25 Kenyan High Commission......................G5
æ Sights 26 Malawian High Commission ..................G5
1 Henry Tayali Visual Arts Centre.............G1 27 Mozambican Embassy ...........................D2
2 Lusaka City Market................................. A5
3 Lusaka National Museum...................... C5 River Safari Company..................... (see 5)
4 Presidential Burial Site National 28 Steve Blagus Travel ................................A2
Monument .............................................F5
Swedish Embassy .........................(see 23)
ÿ Sleeping 29 Tanzanian High Commission.................G5
5 Lusaka Backpackers .............................. C3 30 Voyagers...................................................E4
6 Southern Sun Ridgeway .........................E5 31 Zambia Tourism Agency........................E2
7 Tanuger Travels .......................................E2
8 Wanderers Lodge ....................................F3 Zimbabwean High
Commission ................................(see 23)
ú Eating ï Transport
9 Casa Portico ............................................ H6 32 Buses for Zimbabwe...............................C5
10 Deli .............................................................F2 33 City Bus Station.......................................B5
Lusaka Garden Club........................ (see 1) 34 Corporate Air ...........................................H5
11 Marlin........................................................ G5 CR Holdings....................................(see 36)
12 Zambean Coffee ......................................F3 Falcon..............................................(see 36)
Insight .............................................(see 36)
þ Shopping Jonda Bus Tours............................(see 36)
Bookworld....................................... (see 14) Juldan..............................................(see 36)
KOBS Coach Service ....................(see 36)
13 Kabwata Cultural Village.........................F7 35 Lusaka City Market Bus Station............A5
14 Manda Hill Shopping Centre .................. F1 36 Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station ...............C5
15 Salaula Clothing Market......................... A4 Mazhandu Family Bus
ï Information Services .......................................(see 36)
16 Bimm Travel Agency...............................B1 37 Millennium Bus Station ..........................A4
17 Botswanan High Commission............... G5 Mwayera Buses .............................(see 32)
18 British High Commission....................... G5 Power Tools ...................................(see 36)
19 Canadian High Commission.................. G5 Shalom Bus ....................................(see 36)
20 Corpmed.................................................. B3 Taqwa..............................................(see 36)
21 Democratic Rebublic of Congo 38 Tazara House...........................................C6
39 Train Station ............................................B2
Embassy................................................ C4 Zambia-Botswana Express..........(see 36)
22 Department of Immigration ...................F5 Zupco ..............................................(see 32)
23 Dutch Embassy....................................... H4
Finland Embassy............................(see 23)
for DJs spinning house, hip hop and R&B heaped piles of specific items. From designer
tracks. labels to vintage clothing, it’s all here.
Keg & Lion SPORTS BAR Kabwata Cultural Village ARTS & CRAFTS
(%0211-377824; East Gate Mall, Great East Rd; (Burma Rd; h7am-6pm) A popular shopping
h11am-late) Despite its uninspired shopping stop for tourists, this open-air market com-
mall location, this South African chain pub prises thatch-roofed huts and stalls selling
has three beers on tap, does excellent pub carvings, baskets, masks, drums, fabrics
food and has all the sports you need on the and more. Prices are cheap because you
TV. can buy directly from the workers who live
here. There’s usually cultural performances
7 Shopping (ZMW30) held on weekends around 2pm.
It’s southeast of the city centre.
Salaula Clothing Market CLOTHING
(Lumumba Rd; h9am-6pm) For those with a Sunday Market MARKET
love of secondhand clothes shopping, abso-
lutely don’t miss this market in downtown (Arcades Shopping Centre, Great East Rd; h9am-
6pm Sun) This weekly market, held in the
Lusaka. Known locally as the salaula trade car park at the Arcades Shopping Centre,
(a local word meaning ‘to pick through a
pile’), it has block after block of stalls sell- features Lusaka’s best range of handicrafts,
especially wood carvings, curios made from
ing Western charity clothing all divided into malachite and African prints. Bargaining
43
is expected, though it’s a relaxed, low-pres- ends when prostitutes display their wares at
sure affair. night, especially along Mwilwa Rd.
Bookworld BOOKS TOURIST INFORMATION
(www.bookworldzambia.com; Manda Hill Shop- & TRAVEL AGENCIES
ping Centre, Great East Rd; h9am-6pm) Stocks Bimm Travel Agency (% 0211-220641; www.
a good selection of Zambia-specific non- bimmzambia.com; Shop 3, Luangwa House,
fiction and cultural books, as well as fiction, Cairo Rd) Located just south of the post office, Z a m bia LIunsfoarkmaat i on
international magazines and newspapers. this agency is reliable and locally run. It can
also arrange car hire. There’s another branch at
Levy Junction.
Manda Hill Shopping Centre SHOPPING CENTRE Bush Buzz (% 0978 773930, 0977 801374;
(Great East Rd) The swish Manda Hill Shop- www.bush-buzz.com) Organises trips to Kafue,
ping Centre has all the usual retail, restau- Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National
rants and banks you get in shopping malls. Parks.
88 Information Steve Blagus Travel (% 0211-227739; www.
sbltravel.com; 24 Nkwazi Rd; h 8am-4pm Mon-
Fri, to 11.30am Sat) The agency for Amex and a
IMMIGRATION dozen upmarket lodges/camps; also organises
Department of Immigration (% 0211-252622; regional and domestic tours.
www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm; Kent Building, Voyagers (% 0211-253064; www.voyagers
Haile Selassie Rd) z ambia.com; Suez Rd; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to
INTERNET ACCESS 11am Sat) Perhaps the most popular agency in
I-Zone Internet (Arcades Shopping Centre, Zambia (with other offices in Ndola, Chingola
Great East Rd; h 9am-9pm) Reliable, fast and Kitwe), Voyagers arranges flights and hotel
internet access, plus printing facilities. reservations, and partners with Europcar for
car hire.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Corpmed (% 0211-222612; Cairo Rd; h24hr) Zambia Tourism Agency (% 0211-229087;
Located behind Barclays Bank. Has a doctor on www.zambiatourism.com; 1st fl, Petroda
duty 24 hours and is probably the city’s best- House, Great East Rd; h 8am-1pm & 2-5pm
equipped facility. Also runs its own ambulance Mon-Fri) Information and maps of Lusaka are
service. limited, but has an excellent website.
Specialty Emergency Services (%737; www. 88 Getting There & Away
ses-zambia.com) For evacuations. Has bases
in Lusaka, Livingstone and Kitwe but operates
throughout the country. Also has ambulances AIR
and in-patient care. Lusaka International Airport is about 20km
northe ast of the city centre. Taxis between
the airport and central Lusaka cost anywhere
MONEY from ZMW200 to ZMW250. There’s no airport
Banks (Barclays and others) and bureaux de bus but the upmarket hotels send minib uses
change are located in Arcades, Levy Junction (usually for a fee) to meet international flights,
and Mana Hill shopping centres, along Cairo so you may be able to arrange a ride into town
Rd and elsewhere in Lusaka, such as on Haile with the minibus driver (for a negotiable fee).
Selassie Ave.
Arriving at the airport there are ATMs, for-
eign-exchange booths, car-rental offices and
SAFE TRAVEL mobile-phone companies selling SIM cards. For
Like most African cities, pickpockets take ad- departures, once through security for interna-
vantage of crowds, so be alert in the markets tional flights, there’s a restaurant and basic bar,
and bus stations and along the busy streets and a couple of shops selling curios.
immediately west of Cairo Rd. Take care of your
mobile phone and bring along only the cash you
need in your pockets. Soweto Market, only a few BUS & MINIBUS
blocks from the city markets on Lumumba Rd, in Domestic
particular is notorious for robbery and pickpock-
ets (if in a car, wind windows up and lock doors); From a tourist point of view, the only real bus
there is a township nearby with a bad reputation. station you’ll need to worry about is the Lusaka
At night, most streets are dark and often empty, Inter-City Bus Station (Dedan Kimathi Rd).
so even if you’re on a tight budget, take a taxi. Here you can find a bus to all long-distance
destinations in Zambia and across the border.
The suburb of Rhodes Park, between Cairo Rd
and Embassy Triangle, which is quite upmarket A range of buses from different companies
during the week, takes on a sleazy twist at week- cover most tourist destinations (all leaving
from this bus station unless otherwise stated) –
we’ve quoted the highest prices because they
44
Z a m bia LGuestat ki nag T h ere & Away represent the best companies, with the most West Zambia
comfortable buses (two-storey with reclining Heading west, catch an 8am Juldan or Shalom
seats). It’s certainly worth double-checking the bus through Kafue National Park and onto
schedules and booking your tickets one or two Mongu (ZMW130, eight hours); for Kafue camps
days before you leave. just off the highway, it’s ZMW120 and three
hours.
Much less safe are the buses and minibuses
from in front of the massive and chaotic Lusa- International
ka City Market Bus Station (Lumumba Rd), All buses mentioned here (unless stated oth-
which leave for nearby towns such as Kafue erwise) leave from the Lusaka Inter-City Bus
(not to be confused with the national park; Station.
ZMW30, one hour, 10 to 15 daily), Chirundu
(ZMW55, 2½ hours, five to seven daily), Sia- Botswana
vonga (ZMW70, three hours, three to five daily) Zambia-Botswana Express (% 0977 800042,
and Luangwa Bridge (ZMW95, four hours, one 0966 800042; Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station)
or two daily); destinations are more or less has buses to Gaborone (ZMW300, 22 hours,
signposted. To add to the confusion, minibuses Sunday and Wednesday at 9pm) via Kasane
to places not far south of Lusaka also leave and Francistown; Mazhandu Family has a 5am
from the City Bus Station (Kulima Towers departure for the border at Kazungula.
Bus Station; off Chachacha Rd), also called
the Kulima Towers Station. So it’s possible East Africa
to get to Kafue, Chirundu and Siavonga from Falcon (% 0977 212516, 0977 945874; Lusaka
here too. Inter-City Bus Station) and Taqwa (% 0977
157763; Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station) both
Minibuses heading to the north (eg the Manda make the run to Dar es Salaam (ZMW500,
Hill Shopping Centre) depart from the Millenni- 27 hours, six weekly), Tanzania, but services
um Bus Station (Malasha Rd). can be haphazard (and the train is a more
interesting and adventurous experience). For
Copperbelt the pathologically masochistic, you can even
Juldan (Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station), Power board Nairobi- (ZMW900) and Kampala (Ugan-
Tools (% 0960 812019; Lusaka Inter-City da)-bound buses, which take two to three days.
Bus Station) and Mazhandu Family (% 0977
805064; Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station) buses, Malawi
among others, go to Copperbelt destinations For Malawi, there’s no direct service to Blantyre,
such as Ndola (ZMW85, four hours, five daily) but KOBS Coach Service (% 0955 714545; Lu-
and Kitwe (ZMW90, five hours, five daily); saka Inter-City Bus Terminal) has five services a
Kapiri Mposhi (ZMW60, 2½ hours, five daily) is week to Lilongwe (ZMW220, 10 hours, 4.30am),
also reached along this route. where you can change buses.
East Zambia
Travelling east, many companies operate servic- Namibia
es to Chipata (ZMW160), the road link for South Insight (% 0976 599441; Lusaka Inter-City Bus
Luangwa or Malawi; Jonda Bus Tours (% 0977 Station) has buses to Windhoek (ZMW550, 24
412616; Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station) has de- hours) departing at 5.30am.
partures from 5am.
South Africa
Northeast For South Africa, buses cost around ZMW450
Tracking northeast, Juldan and Power Tools are for the journey that heads to Johannesburg (18
two of the better companies, making a beeline to 24 hours) via Livingstone, Harare, Masvingo
for Serenje (ZMW145, five to six hours), Mpika and Pretoria.
(ZMW160, 10 hours), Kasama (ZMW130, 14 Shalom departs daily at 9am, while Mazhandu
hours, four daily) and Mpulungu (ZMW180, 18 Family, CR Holdings (Lusaka Inter-City Bus
hours, four daily). Station) and Juldan also have services through
the week.
Southwest
Heading southwest, as you’d expect, there are Zimbabwe
plenty of buses to Livingstone (ZMW120, six to Buses heading to Zimbabwe leave just across
seven hours, at least seven daily) with either from the Lusaka Inter-City bus station. Mwayera
Mazhandu Family or Shalom (% 0977 414932; Buses (www.facebook.com/mwayerabuses;
Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station) being the recom- Dedan Kimathi Rd, opp Lusaka Inter-City Bus
mended bus services. It’s best to purchase the Station) head via Chirundu, while Zupco (opp
ticket the day before or phone ahead of time to Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station, Dedan Kimathi
get seat details. Rd) goes via Siavonga border crossings. It’s
US$20 to Harare (eight hours via Chirundu)
45
and US$10 to Siavonga (three hours). There are Los Angeles Blvd and Church Rd; the ‘Chakunku- Z a m bia CEGahe sti ptaei ntragn AZraomubni ad
usually around three buses per day. la’ or ‘Chelston’ minibus shuttles down Kafue Rd
to Kafue town; and the ‘Chilanga’ minibus heads
TRAIN to Chilanga, via Kafue Rd. The standard fare is
The train travelling to Livingstone (economy/ ZMW2 to ZMW3.
business/sleeper class ZMW70/90/135, 14 TAXI
hours), via Choma, leaves Lusaka at 7am on Sat- Official taxis can be identified by the numbers
urday and Tuesday, and arrives in Livingstone at painted on the doors and their colour – light blue
the ungodly hour of 2am. Quite simply, it’s not – but hundreds of unofficial taxis also cruise the
worth it. But if you insist, tickets are available streets (you’ll hear them honk their horn as they
from the reservations office inside the train go past you on the street, looking for business).
station (% 0961 195353; btwn Cairo & Dedan
Kimathi Rds). Get there early and be prepared Official taxis can be hailed along the street or
for hustle and bustle. Slow, ‘ordinary’ trains to found at ranks near the main hotels and mar-
Ndola (standard class ZMW40, 12 hours), via kets. Fares are negotiable, but if you’re unsure,
Kapiri Mposhi (ZMW25, eight hours), depart ask at your accommodation first for an approx-
Friday and Monday at 7pm. imate price; always agree on the fare before
setting out.
The Tazara train runs between Kapiri Mposhi
and Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) on Tuesday EASTERN ZAMBIA
(ZMW334) at 4pm and Friday (ZMW278) at 2pm,
taking 38 to 48 hours. Get tickets from Tazara Eastern Zambia contains a couple of the
House (% 0979 484980; 2nd Fl, Tazara House, country’s wilderness gems. It’s a sparsely
off Independence Ave; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri). populated region with one long highway,
the Great East Rd, meandering out to the
88 Getting Around border with Malawi and onto Lilongwe.
The two key national parks of the Luangwa
CAR & MOTORCYCLE Valley complement each other beautifully:
The roads can get extremely clogged around stunning South Luangwa is the most set-up
Lusaka at peak traffic times. Speed limits are park for tourism in Zambia, as well as be-
enforced in and around the city. Do not park your ing one of the best in the region for wildlife
vehicle on the streets unless you have someone watching and the most accessible park for
to keep an eye on it for you; hotels, restaurants budget tourists in Zambia; North Luangwa
and shopping centres all have guarded car is wild and difficult to reach – access is usu-
parks. If you drive around at night, you increase ally by private charter flights – and spectac-
the risk of an accident or carjacking; after dark, ular for exploring on foot. Splitting the two
leave the car at your hotel and take a taxi. parks is the lesser visited Luambe National
Park, under new private management and
Several international car-rental companies one to look out for with animal numbers on
have counters at the airport, including Avis the rise.
(% airport 0211-271020; www.avis.com) and
Europcar/Voyagers (% 0212-620314; www. Chipata
europcarzambia.com). Benmark Transways
& Car Hire (% 0211-292192; ben@benmark The primary commercial and urban cen-
carhire.com; cnr Parliament & Great East Rds) tre in this eastern district, Chipata is a
rents out cars for travel within Lusaka for around fast-growing, traffic-clogged town in a valley
US$35 per day. surrounded by a fertile agricultural region.
For travellers, it’s simply a stop on the way
If you want a car and driver to help get you to South Luangwa National Park or Mala-
around Lusaka, you’re better off hiring a taxi for wi, which is only 30km away. There are a
the day; your lodge will be able to recommend a few decent accommodation options, petrol
trusted driver for around US$40 to US$50 a day, stations, ATMs and several large shopping
depending on how much distance you will cover. malls with restaurant chains and supermar-
kets to stock up on food and other supplies.
LOCAL TRANSPORT Deans Hill View Lodge CAMPGROUND, LODGE $
Local minibuses run along Lusaka’s main roads, (%0216-223698; www.deanshillviewlodge.com;
but there are no route numbers or destination Plot 3278, Kanjala Hill, Fort Jameson; camping/
signs, so the system is difficult to work out.
There is also a confusing array of bus and mini-
bus stations.
Otherwise it is possible to flag down a minibus
along a route. For instance, from the South End
Roundabout, the ‘Kabulonga’ minibus goes
along Independence Ave to Longacres Rounda-
bout and then heads back towards the city along
46
Z a m bia SEGaoe sut tteihnrgLnuTZahanemgrbweiaa& NAawtaiyon a l Pa rk GREAT EAST ROAD: FROM LUSAKA TO CHIPATA
The Great East Rd crosses the Luangwa River on a large suspension bridge about half-
way between Lusaka and Chipata. There are several places en route to break your trip.
Tikondane Community Centre (%0979 176960; www.tikondane.org; Katete; camping/
dm/r US$5/6/25, s/d with shared bathroom from US$10/15; W) This grassroots initiative
does wonderful work in assisting to empower local communities. It’s a great place to
hang around and help out as a volunteer. Otherwise you can spend the night at its Tiko
Lodge, which offers camping, dorms and basic rooms in various configurations. The food
here is another reason to stop by, with intriguing local dishes on offer.
Luangwa Bridge Camp (%0977 395037; www.bridgecampzambia.com; Feira Rd; camping/r
US$10/85, meals ZMW95-175; h8am-9pm) A great place to break up the drive between
Lusaka and Chipata, Luangwa Bridge Camp offers a good menu and drinks list, and
scenic spot overlooking the river. It does filtered Zambian coffee, cold drinks, burgers,
pizzas and steaks, as well as gourmet items such as deep-fried crumbed camembert or
a tempura prawn burger with onion rings.
dm/d ZMW60/100/300, s/d with shared bath- Buses also leave here to Mfuwe (around ZMW50,
room ZMW150/250; W) This laid-back lodge 2½ hours, 1.30pm) for South Luangwa National
is perched at the top of a hill with great Park. A taxi to Mfuwe (ZMW450, three-plus
views of the valley and Chipata below. hours) is another option.
Simple rooms are set in a two-storey stone-
and-thatch chapel-like building. The shared It’s best to arrive an hour early to guarantee
ablutions are kept clean, and camping is a seat; always choose the bus closest to being
out on a nice big sloping garden. Meals are filled, otherwise you might have a long, uncom-
served in a cosy dining area with bar, or fortable wait.
there’s a kitchen for self-caterers.
KOBS Coach Service has departures to Lilong-
Mama Rula’s CAMPGROUND, LODGE $$ we, Malawi (ZMW80, four hours) at 5.30am pret-
(%0965 790225, 0977 790226; www.mamarulas. ty much daily (except Thursday and Sunday).
com; camping US$10, s/d incl breakfast US$32/60,
s/d with shared bathroom US$15/30; i) Owned Minibuses (ZMW25) for the Malawi border
and operated by a South African/Zimbabwe- depart from 7am to 5pm from the Puma petrol
an family, this long-running operation is in a station (Great East Rd) on the main drag in
leafy compound around 4km out of Chipata town; otherwise, a taxi should run at around
along the road to Mfuwe. Simply furnished ZMW100 (30 minutes). Once you’ve passed
rooms with mosquito nets are in a low-slung through Zambian customs (open 24 hours), it’s
building; nearby are small but clean cheaper a few minutes’ walk to the Malawian entry post.
rooms with shared bathroom facilities and a From the border crossing you can catch a shared
campsite popular with overland groups. Its taxi to nearby Mchinji (MK300) before getting a
social bar is Chipata’s best spot for a beer. minibus all the way to Lilongwe.
Meals (T-bone steaks or schnitzel with
chips and salad around ZM60 to ZMW120) South Luangwa
are served in the bar festooned with South National Park
African rugby flags. Transport to and from
town is ZMW50, or ZMW100 to the border. For scenery, variety and density of animals,
South Luangwa National Park (per person/
88 Getting There & Away self-drive vehicle US$25/30; h6am-6pm) is one
of the best parks in Zambia, if not Africa.
The main bus station is located in the tangle of Impalas, pukus, waterbucks, giraffes and
streets about 1.5km north of the town centre. buffaloes wander on the wide-open plains;
leopards, of which there are many in the
Of the handful of bus companies offering ser- park, hunt in the dense woodlands; herds of
vices to Lusaka, Johabie (ZMW160, seven hours, elephants wade through the marshes; and
4am and 7am) is easily the most recommended. hippos munch serenely on Nile cabbage in
Touts from competing companies can be very the Luangwa River. The bird life is a high-
aggressive in trying to steer you, or rather light: about 400 species have been recorded
manhandle you, towards their waiting vehicle. – large birds like snake eagles, bateleurs and
ground hornbills are normally easy to spot.
47
South Luangwa National Park is Mfuwe Gate, the main entrance to the
66660 2km e# 0 20 km park, where a bridge crosses the Luangwa
0 10 miles River.
AB Much of the park is inaccessible because
of rains between November and April.
Enlargement
0 Activities
1 mile 7 ÿ# 1
666 2110 S# All lodges/camps run excellent day or night
05 Track Chikwinda wildlife drives and some have walking sa-
GaXte faris (June to November). These activities
are included in the rates charged by the
upmarket places, while the cheaper lodg-
es/camps can organise things with little
notice. A three-hour morning or evening
wildlife drive normally costs around
US$40, while a wildlife walk is about
US$50.
Budget Safaris
While South Luangwa is one of the easier
parks to navigate for those without their
own vehicle, an all-inclusive safari is still an
excellent way to see the park. The following
Z a m bia SEAcaosut titvehirtLni ueZsaanmgbwiaa N at i on a l Pa rk666611 ÿ#NaL1tÿ#i3uo3nwNÿ#aaiLl9tR5PiuSS#ÿ#oaaiï#onvrnuakegtl-#ÿ#rhw8Paa#\ÿ#Mr4kfuweÿ#SNescetfour
Kauluzi
Lupande River12
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Miliyoti
6666þ# Mfuwe Gate 2
Mfuwe 15
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Lusangazi offer some more affordable safaris:
Gate Jackalberry Safari (www.jackalberry
6666A B safaris.net; 3-/4-/5-day safari per person
South Luangwa National Park US$645/995/1195) Popular all-inclusive
multiday safaris that offer top value for
money with stays at its lovely, remote
Nkonzi Camp.
æ Top Sights
1 South Luangwa National Park ............A2
Edward Selfe Photography Safaris
(%0976 750967; www.edwardselfephotography.
ÿ Sleeping com; 6 days from US$2870) One for budding
2 Chamilandu Bushcamp .......................A3 wildlife photographers, these tours are run
3 Chizombo............................................... A1 by an experienced nature photographer.
4 Croc Valley............................................. A1
5 Flatdogs Camp...................................... A1
6 Kawaza Village ......................................B2 River Safari Company (%in South Africa
7 Luwi Bush Camp................................... A1 021-426 2838; www.riversafaricompany.com;
8 Marula Lodge......................................... A1 161 Mulombwa Cl; 3-/4-day safari per person
9 Mfuwe Lodge......................................... A1 US$545/695) Budget safaris run out of
10 Nkonzi Camp......................................... A1 Lusaka Backpackers.
11 Nkwali.....................................................A2 Kiboko Safaris (%0975 713820; www.kiboko-
12 Nsefu Camp...........................................B2 safaris.com; 4-day safari per person US$515)
Operating out of Lilongwe, Malawi; offers
Track & Trail River Camp............. (see 8) multiday trips in its tented camp along
13 Wildlife Camp ........................................A2 the Luangwa River.
14 Zungulila.................................................A3
ú Eating 4 Sleeping
Dorphil Restaurant .......................(see 8)
þ Shopping Most lodges and camps in South Luangwa
15 Tribal Textiles........................................B2 are along the banks of the river; those deep
in the park are all-inclusive and at the very
The focal point is Mfuwe, an uninspiring top end price-wise.
though more prosperous than average vil-
lage with shops as well as a petrol station Budget travellers will be treated to some
and market. Around 1.8km further along of the best-value accommodation in Africa,
where you don’t need to spend a cashload
for waterfront views or wildlife encounters.
48
Many lodges close during the rainy sea- east of Mfuwe Gate, Track & Trail offers var-
son (November to April), but those around ying levels of luxurious chalets and lovely
Mfuwe open year-round. camping grounds shaded by a giant African
fig. Its pool with elevated deck and lounge
4Around Mfuwe Gate chairs overlooking the river is one of the
park’s finest.
oMarula Lodge LODGE $
Z a m bia SE aloesuettpehirnLnguZaanmgbwiaa N at i on a l Pa rk (%0216-246073; www.marulalodgezambia.com; Flatdogs Camp TENTED CAMP $$
(%0216-246038; www.flatdogscamp.com; safa-
Mfuwe; dm US$10, dome tents per person US$15, ri tents U$52-97, all-inclusive chalets per person
r from US$40; Ws) Occupying a stretch of
riverfront with plenty of lawn, Marula of- US$395; is) On a large, leafy property
along a kilometre of riverfront, Flatdogs
fers one of the best choices in the park for has 11 safari tents of varying features. All
budget travellers. Options include water-
front domed tents, upstairs dorm rooms are well kept and have outdoor showers.
Groups of four can consider the ‘tree house’
with a view and some charming, comfort- (US$405), which has two open-air bedrooms
able chalets with private bathroom. The
shared bathroom for those in the tents overlooking a flood plain frequented by all
manner of wildlife (a telescope is on hand
and dorms offers a unique experience in a for stargazing).
wonderful circular open-air structure built
around a lovely mahogany tree.
There’s also a self-catering kitchen, an at- Kawaza Village HUT $$
(www.kawazavillage.co.uk; per person day visit incl
mospheric thatched restaurant/bar serving lunch US$20, overnight per person with full board
up Western mains, and an inviting swim-
ming pool that makes it worth hanging US$70) This enterprise run by the local Kun-
da people gives tourists the opportunity
around another day. to visit a real rural Zambian village while
Croc Valley LODGE $ helping the local community. Four ron-
davels (each sleeps two) with open-air reed
(%0216-246074; www.crocvalley.com; camping/ showers and long-drop toilets are reserved
safari tent US$12/15, r from US$40,with shared bath-
room from US$25; iWs) One of several places for visitors who are encouraged to partake
in village life, learning how to cook nshima
catering to independent travellers along this (maize porridge), attending church services
stretch of the river, Croc Valley offers great
options. In a sprawling compound set under and visiting schools.
a tangle of trees lining the riverbank, there’s Mfuwe Lodge LODGE $$$
both camping and good-value ‘backpacker
rooms’ with shared amenities. Otherwise it (%0216-245041; www.bushcampcompany.com;
per person all-inclusive US$545; Ws) S Laid
has air-conditioned safari tents of varying out along an enviable stretch of a well-
levels of luxury and more standard tents with
open-air, thatch-walled bathrooms. trafficked oxbow lagoon only 2km from the
Mfuwe Gate, this resort-like lodge, one of
the largest, is also certainly one of the nicest
Wildlife Camp LODGE, CAMPGROUND $ and most well run. The 18 separate cottages
(%0216-246026; www.wildlifecamp-zambia.com;
camping US$12, safari tent s/d US$55/90, chalet (12 face the lagoon and six the hippo pool)
are imaginatively designed with private ve-
s/d US$85/136; Ws) This spacious, secluded randas (and hanging wicker ‘basket chairs’)
spot about 5km southwest of Mfuwe village
is popular with both overland groups and and colourful bathrooms with big windows.
independent travellers. There are nine sim- oChizombo LODGE $$$
ple stone-and-thatch chalets (two with basic
kitchenettes), five airy tented ones and a big, (%0216-246025; www.normancarrsafaris.com/
camps/chinzombo; per person all-inclusive
open area for campers with its own bar and US$1300; aWs) One of the park’s most
pool area. Its tented camps have some of the
best views in the park. exquisite lodges, Chizombo offers luxury
villas done out in designer soft white tones,
with spacious, breezy and immaculate areas
Track & Trail furnished with a classy vintage decor. Each
River Camp CHALET, CAMPGROUND $$ of the six villas has its own massive deck-
(%0977 600556, 0974 244850, in Lusaka 0211-
246020; www.trackandtrailrivercamp.com; camp- ing area with a sofa and private plunge pool
overlooking the wildlife-viewing areas.
ing US$12.50, s/d all-inclusive US$495/850; Ws)
Set on a riverfront property about 400m
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