zambia-mozambique-malawi-3-full-book

199

Gecko Lounge LODGE $$ oDomwe Island
(%0999 787322; www.geckolounge.net; dm/r/
chalet q US$15/75/90; pW) A firm family fa- Adventure Camp CAMPGROUND $$$
(%0999 942661, in South Africa 21-783-1955; www.
vourite and with good reason, Gecko’s self-­ kayakafrica.co.za; camping US$30, safari tents per
catering chalets are right on the manicured person US$60) S Domwe is the smaller and
beach. Each has a double and a bunk bed, more rustic of Kayak Africa’s two neighbour-
fridge, fan, tile floor, mozzie nets and pri- ing island lodges, run on solar power and
vate veranda, as well as plenty of hammocks romantically lit by paraffin lamps. It’s self-­
and swing chairs outside. Equally pleasant catering, with furnished safari tents, kitchen,
are the subdivided eight-bed dorm and the shared eco-showers and composting toilets.
d­ ouble and family rooms, replete with Afri- It has a bar and a beautiful staggered dining
can decor. area, open to the elements and set among
The thatch- and wicker-accented res- boulders. Food can be provided on request.
taurant (%0999 787322; www.geckolounge.net;
Eating
5mains MK6000; h8am-8pm; Wv) is popular
for its tasty pizzas and burgers, as well as
being the perfect sundowner spot. You can Thumbi View Lodge CAFE $
also rent kayaks and snorkel gear, making (%0998 599005, 0997 463054; www.thumbiview
Gecko a winning beachfront option. lodge.com; mains MK3000; h7am-8pm) On the
lane opposite Thumbi View’s gate, this cafe
serves light meals and snacks such as veg-
Chembe Eagles Nest LODGE, CAMPGROUND $$ etable curry, spaghetti Bolognese, lasagne, M a l awi CE aetnpietnrMgaalcMleaal raw i
(%0999 966507; www.chembenest.com; fish, burgers and toasted sandwiches. Book
camping US$10, chalets incl breakfast US$85; by 1pm to join the set dinner, which typical-
piWs) At the far northern end of ly consists of Indian or South African dishes
Cape Maclear Beach, this lodge sits in an such as slow-cooked oxtail from the owners’
idyllic spot on a beautiful and very clean, homeland, in the main lodge.
broad stretch of private beach, strewn with
palm trees and shaded tables, and nestled
against the side of the hills. Chalets have Mphipe Lodge ITALIAN $
cool, tiled floors, thatched roofs and gran- (%0884 997481; www.andiamotrust.org; mains
ite bathrooms with hot showers; campsites MK2500; h7am-9pm; p) For a different take
have power points. on lake fish, Mphipe serves it in pasta dishes.
Malawian staples such as kampango (catfish)
and nsima (a porridge-like dish made from
oPumulani LODGE $$$ maize flour) are also on the menu. The lodge
(%01-794491; www.robinpopesafaris.net; per per-
son all-inclusive US$355-470; hApr-Jan; pna funds a children’s hospital in Balaka.

iWs) Pumulani is a stylish lakeside lodge Mgoza Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $
with nature-inspired rooms – think grass (%0995 632105; www.mgozalodge.com; mains
roofs and huge windows to let in the light, MK2000; hkitchen 7am-9.15pm,bar to 10pm; Wv)
views of the surrounding forest and lake, With shaded palapa (palm-leaf) shelters in a
and massive wooden terraces from which to garden facing the lake, this is a cool spot to
gaze at the clear waters and sweep of gold- chat in the friendly bar or take dinner outside.
en sand below. The food, served in the open Located at Mgoza Lodge, the restaurant
bar-restaurant, is equally amazing. serves up great full English breakfasts,

oMumbo Island Camp CAMPGROUND $$$ healthy fruit smoothies and, come evening,
(%0999 942661, in South Africa 21-783-1955; fresh fish and great burgers loaded with
www.kayakafrica.co.za; per person all-inclusive fried onions. The garden is an atmospheric
US$260) Situated exclusively on Mumbo dinner-time setting.

Island, this eco-boutique camp has cha- Thomas’s Grocery,
lets and a walk-in tent on wooden plat-
forms (with en-suite bucket showers and Restaurant & Bar MALAWIAN $
eco-loos), tucked beneath trees and above (%0999 270602, 0999 468383; dishes MK1800;
rocks, with spacious decks and astounding h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, bar to 11.30pm daily) This
views. Accommodation rates include boat local gathering place comprises a shop and
transfers, full board, kayaking, snorkelling a bar with shaded seating and a reggae
and guided hikes. soundtrack. Simple dishes such as omelette,
spaghetti, and beans with chapati or nsima

200 Shire Camp LODGE $
are offered, and the shop sells biscuits, toi- (%0999 210532, 0884 629214; camping/dm/r
letries and basic provisions. US$5/10/20; p) Shire Camp’s faded bamboo-
and-brick cabanas in varying states of repair
88 Getting There & Away have tiled floors, fans, hot-water bathrooms
and netted breeze vents. The three-bed en-
By public transport, first get to Monkey Bay, suite dorm is the best option. Right on the
from where a matola (pickup) to Cape Maclear river, the colourful thatched bar-restaurant
costs MK1000 and a motorbike costs MK1500. (mains MK3000) serves basic meals such as
The journey takes about an hour and they drop chambo, omelettes, burgers and pasta.
at the lodges. The campsite is less appealing, with hard,
rocky ground and a basic ablutions block.
Approaching by car on the M10 tar road, the Shire Camp can take you on a 2½-hour river
road to Cape Maclear (signposted) turns west safari (US$35 per person, two people mini-
off the main drag about 5km before Monkey Bay. mum), which heads into Liwonde National
The first third of the 18km road to Cape Maclear Park. The camp is on the river’s west bank.
is badly corrugated, but thereafter it’s a smooth, Take the dirt road next to the National Bank;
tarred ride. follow the sign to Hippo View Lodge.

If you’re heading to/from Senga Bay, ask Hippo View Lodge HOTEL $$
around about chartering a boat. The Cape Ma- (%01-542116/8; www.hippoviewlodge.com; incl
clear Tour Guides Association charges US$300, breakfast s/d superior MK35,000/55,500, deluxe
which, if split between several people, is a good MK48,000/65,500; paWs) This 111-room
alternative to the long, hard bus ride. MonkeyM a l awi GLSioewtuottnihndegernThMearel a&wAi waybehemoth does its best to banish a linger-
Bay is US$200. ing feeling of faded grandeur, with rooms
in blocks overlooking riverside gardens
To catch a matola or motorbike in Cape Ma- shaded by palms and a huge baobab. Su-
clear, ask your lodge to call a driver, as there is perior rooms have tiled floor, fridge, phone
no official bus station. As usual, matolas leave on and plasma-screen TV; it’s worth upgrading
a fill-up-and-go basis. to the more attractive and modern deluxe
rooms, with larger bathrooms and tea and
SOUTHERN MALAWI coffee.

Southern Malawi is home to the country’s Liwonde National Park
commercial capital, Blantyre, and incred-
ibly diverse landscapes. These include Set in 584 sq km of dry savannah and for-
mist-shrouded Mt Mulanje, Malawi’s high- est alongside the serene Shire River, the
est peak, and the Zomba Plateau, a stunning relatively small Liwonde National Park
highland area. Safari-lovers can experience (www.african-parks.org; person/car US$20/4;
luxury and adventure combined in two of h6am-6pm) is one of Africa’s best spots for
the country’s best wildlife reserves: Liwonde river-based wildlife watching, with around
and Majete, the country’s only Big Five Park. 550 elephants, 2000 hippos and innumer-
able crocs. Animals including black rhinos,
Liwonde buffaloes and sable antelopes are found
on dry land, where the terrain rolls from
Straddling the Shire River, Liwonde is the palm-studded flood plains and riverine for-
main gateway to Liwonde National Park. ests to mopane and acacia woodlands inter-
The river divides the town in two, with the spersed with candelabra succulents.
market and most services found on the east-
ern side, along with the turnoff to the park. The park’s excellent lodges offer a fantas-
If you’re unable to stay in the park, it’s pos- tic range of wildlife-spotting drives, walks
sible to use Liwonde as a base for a short and boat trips.
safari by road or river.
Njobvu Cultural Village CULTURAL
Regular minibuses run along the
main road through town to/from Zomba (%0888 623530; www.njobvuvillage.org; r incl
(MK1000, 45 minutes), Limbe (for Blantyre; breakfast per person US$16, all-inclusive US$50)
MK2500, three hours), Mangochi (MK2500, S Near Liwonde National Park’s Makanga
two hours) and the Mozambique border at Gate, Njobvu offers visitors a rare opportu-
Nayuchi (MK3000, 2½ to three hours). nity to stay in a traditional Malawian village,

There are two petrol stations east of the
river en route to the Liwonde National Park
turnoff.

201

Southern Malawi 0 50 km
0 25 miles

Masasa Golomoti Lake Malawi Chiponde Mandimba
Lizulu Mt Chirobwe Lake
(2023m) Mangochi Amaramba

Ulongue Fort Mkungulu Lake
Malanguene Malombe

MOZAMBIQUE Ntcheu M Liwonde Lake
3 NP Chiuta
M
1 Ulongwe Park Gate Nayuchi
Entre
Bawi Balaka Lagos

M
8

Liwonde
Machinga

Mkurumadzi River Zomba Domasi Lake
River Plateau M Chilwa
Matope 3 Kachulu

Zalewa Zomba Mikuyu

M Shire M Namikango Jali
6 1 Mwinje
Zóbuè (1458m)
Mwanza Chileka M a l awi SGoe tuttihnegrnThMearel a&wAi way
Airport Magornero
Thyolo EscarpmentNamaka

Mpatamanga Mt Michiru M Mchese
Gorge (1473m) 3 (2289m)

Chiradzulu

Majete WR Blantyre Limbe Phalombe

Mikolongo Kapichira Falls Fisherman's Likhubula Mt Mulanje
Park Gate Rest Shire Luchenza Sapitwa Peak
Chikwawa Highlands
Thabwa Mulanje (3001m)
Timbenao
M Muloza
2 Milange
Ruo River Milange
Thyolo

Lengwe Nchalo
NP

M Elephant
1 Marsh

N'gabu Mchacha Liciro

Sorgin James Makhanga MOZAMBIQUE

Chiromo
Dande Bangula Eastern
Zambezi River Marsh
Mwabvi
WR

Nsanje

Lulwe M
1

Chemba Marka
Vila de Vila Nova
Sena da Fronteira

Nhamalabue LEGEND
Mutarara NP National Park
WR Wildlife Reserve

M a l awi SZ olemuebtphaienrgn M a l aw i202 can Wilderness Safaris, Malawi’s premier
safari operator, Mvuu sits on the river in the
LIWONDE RHINO SANCTUARY realm of myriad hippos and crocs. The camp
comprises a main restaurant building and,
The rhino sanctuary (%01-821219, nearby, scattered chalets with cosy interiors,
01-771393; www.cawsmw.com; US$80) is a step-in mozzie nets, comfy beds, immaculate
fenced-off area within Liwonde National linen and stone-walled bathrooms.
Park, developed for breeding rare black
rhinos, and expanded to protect other 88 Getting There & Away
mammal species from poaching. With a
scout from Mvuu Camp or Mvuu Lodge The main park gate is 6km east of Liwonde town.
in the park, you can go on a three-hour From the gate to Mvuu Camp is 28km along the
hike, searching for the rhinos in the park track (closed in the wet season); a 4WD
48-sq-km reserve. vehicle is recommended for this route. The park
lodges offer transfers from Liwonde.
In late 2016 10 black rhinos were
living in the enclosure, along with pop- Another way in for vehicles is via the dirt road
ulations of Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, (open all year) from Ulongwe, a village between
Cape buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, eland Liwonde town and Mangochi. This leads for 14km
and roan antelope. through local villages to the park’s western
boundary. A few kilometres inside the park is
sleeping in mud-brick huts (with or without a car park and boat jetty, where a watchman
a mattress – your choice!). During the day hoists a flag to arrange a boat from Mvuu Camp
you are invited to take part in the villagers’ or Mvuu Lodge to collect you. This service is free
daily lives, visiting traditional doctors and if you’re staying at the camps.
the village school, and eating local food such
as the porridge-like nsima. Alternatively, if you book in advance to stay at
Mvuu Camp or Mvuu Lodge, you can organise a
4 Sleeping boat transfer–safari from Hippo View Lodge in
Liwonde town for US$80.
oBushman’s Baobabs LODGE, CAMPGROUND $$
For those without wheels, the best option is to
(%0995 453324, 0884 659901; www.bushmans get any bus or minibus between Liwonde town
baobabs.com; camping US$7.50,dm US$15,s US$65- and Mangochi and get off at Ulongwe (make sure
85, d US$90-120, tr/f US$180/240, s/d without bath- you say this clearly, or the driver may think you
want to go to Lilongwe). In Ulongwe, locals wait
room US$25/50; p) S The former Chinguni by the bus stop and will sometimes take you by
Hills Lodge is a fun place to experience a bicycle to the park (this takes about an hour and
night in the bush and a safari. In an acces- costs around MK4500).
sible location in the south of the park, Bush-
man’s offers 14-bed dorms, thatched A-frame Ulendo Airlink (p223) flies a few days a week
tents, luxurious en-suite tents, en-suite cha- to the Liwonde National Park airstrip (near Mvuu
lets, and campsites with barbecue spots and Camp and Mvuu Lodge), from Lilongwe (adult/
a self-catering kitchen. Wildlife drives, walks, child US$295/211), Likoma Island and Monkey
and boat and canoe trips are offered. Bay. Charter flights are also available, as are dis-
counted seats on upcoming departures; check
the ‘bid to fly’ section of Ulendo Airlink’s website.

Liwonde Safari Camp LODGE, CAMPGROUND $$ Zomba
(%0881 813240; www.liwondesafaricamp.com;
camping/dm US$10/15, safari tent s/d US$40/60; With its chilly elevation and atmospher-
p) This rustic camp is immersed in the park, ic old colonial and missionary buildings
with stilted safari tents, dorm and campsite nestled in the wooded foothills, Zomba
sharing ablutions and a self-catering kitch- is hauntingly special – like a chapter of
en. There’s a plunge pool, a thatched bar, the British Empire hanging by a tenuous
meals (buffet dinner US$15), and – if you thread. It has the typical chaos of a dusty
don’t spot animals from the viewing decks – market town, but the higher you climb to-
wildlife walks (US$5 per person), drives and wards the Zomba Plateau, the more stun-
boat trips (US$25 per person). ning and pristine the scenery becomes. The
capital from 1891 to 1974 of British Central
oMvuu Camp LODGE $$$ Africa, Nyasaland and, finally, Malawi, it’s
(%01-821219,01-771393; www.cawsmw.com; camp- home to wide, tree-lined streets and an easy
ing US$15, chalets all-inclusive s/d US$360/520; charm. This is perhaps Malawi’s most ap-
piW) Run by the excellent Central Afri-

203

pealing city, and a great base for exploring off Namiwawa Rd. Minibuses depart every hour
the plateau to the north. or so to Limbe (for Blantyre; MK1500, one hour)
and Lilongwe (MK6000, five hours), and head to
African Heritage ADVENTURE, CULTURAL Liwonde (MK1000, 45 minutes). There are more
services in the morning.
(Luso Lathu Art & Coffee Shop; %0999 235823;
www.africanheritage.mw; Zomba Gymkhana Club) Alternatively, you can privately hire a taxi;
This craft shop doubles as a tourism hub, the fare to Blantyre is MK30,000. Organise it
offering guided tours, shuttles to the Zom- through your accommodation; they may know of
ba Plateau (US$10), mountain-bike rental another guest or local going in the same direc-
(MK1000 per hour) and a detailed plateau tion who can share the ride.
map (MK1000). Half-day tours cover the
plateau and historical Zomba, while longer For Mt Mulanje, there is a daily National
itineraries go further afield to Mt Mulanje, Bus Company service at 11am to Phalombe
Mua, Lake Chilwa and beyond. (MK1500, 1½ hours), where you can pick up a
minibus to Mulanje.

4 Sleeping & Eating Zomba Plateau

Pakachere Backpackers Rising nearly 1800m behind Zomba town,
and carpeted in thick stands of pine, the
& Creative Centre HOSTEL $ Zomba Plateau is beguilingly pretty. As you
(%0994 685934, 0882 858089; www.pakachere. ascend the snaking road past wildflowers,
com; camping/tent hire/dm US$5/7/10, r/tr stoic locals heaving huge burdens of timber,
US$40/45, r without bathroom US$35; pW) This and roadside strawberry vendors, the place
locally run hostel is nicely decorated, and almost feels like alpine France; then a vervet
has craftwork for sale and a bar-­restaurant monkey jumps out, a pocket of blue mist
opening onto a garden with thatched seat- envelops your car, and you remember you’re M a l awi ZSolemuebtphaienPrglna&tMEeaaaltuaiwngi
ing areas. The spacious rooms are worn in Africa. This gorgeous highland paradise,
but clean, with tiled floors and mozzie nets, replete with streams, lakes and tumbling
and there’s six-bed dorm and an en-suite waterfalls, is home to monkeys, bushbucks,
10-­bedder with secure storage space. and birds including mountain wagtails and
Bertram’s weavers.
oCasa Rossa GUESTHOUSE, CAMPGROUND $$
(%0991 184211, 0881 366126; www.casarossamw. The plateau can be covered on foot,
com; Mountain Rd 5; incl breakfast camping US$5, mountain bike or car (4WD only on the back
r US$50-60, without bathroom US$40; pW) roads), with myriad winding trails that ring
Named after its oxblood veranda overlook- and cross the mountain. It’s divided in two
ing town, this Italian-owned guesthouse by the Domasi Valley. The southern half has
offers hillside tranquillity and the best a tarred road to the top, a hotel, several pic-
restaurant (mains MK3100-8100; h9am-9pm nic places, waterfalls and viewpoints, and
Tue-Sun, residents only Mon; pWv) around. a network of driveable tracks and hiking
Rooms in the old colonial house are simple paths.
but comfortable and the campsites in the
leafy garden have electricity, fireplace and
two barbecues. Plateau Stables HORSE RIDING

oAnnie’s Lodge (%0993 764600; www.plateaustables.com; per
person per hour US$40) Opposite Mulunguzi
LODGE $$ Dam, this long-running stable offers one- to
(%01-527002, 01-951636; www.annieslodge.com;
Livingstone Rd; incl breakfast s US$40-70, d US$50- five-hour plateau excursions on well-kept
80; paW) Set in the foothills of the Zomba horses. In the wet season (mid-November
Plateau, Annie’s has a bar-restaurant with to mid-March), phone ahead to check that
an appealing terrace for a sundowner, and weather conditions are suitable.
black-and-white-brick chalets with green tin
roofs, engulfed in palm trees and flowers. 4 Sleeping

The 40-plus rooms are carpeted, clean and Ku Chawe
welcoming, with DSTV, bathroom and fan
or air-con. Trout Farm CAMPGROUND, BUNGALOWS $
(p) This campsite is ideally located in
the lee of a valley amid a giant gum- and
88 Getting There & Away c­ edar-tree clearing. In late 2016 it was show-
ing signs of not being well maintained and
Zomba is on a main route between Lilongwe and was undergoing a change of management.
Blantyre. The bus station is in the town centre,

204

Zomba Plateau (Southern Section) e# 0 2 km
0 1 mile
A B C D
Kasonga #\
Domasi River 1
Malonga #\

1‚ Domasi Valley

Indigenous Forest New Ngondola
& Nature Trail Forestry
Village
#\

Old Ngondola
Village #\

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Peak 4
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Oute r Circular D r
Malumbe Chagwa ::
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::
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8 Nawimbe Mulunguzi Forestry Rd
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Peak Skyline 1 PPoattahtoMuDluanmguzi
(1807m) View á# Old
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Old Up Rd ÿ# 7 O ld Naisi Rd Old Naisi
Old
#\
Old Naisi Rd
4
unguzi Ri v
ÿ# 3 ÿ# er
6 ÿ# African Heritage (900m);
D
›# (1.1km) Å@3

ABCD

Zomba Plateau (Southern Section)

æ Sights 5 Ku Chawe Trout Farm.............................B3
1 Model Hut ................................................ B3 6 Pakachere Backpackers &

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Creative Centre ....................................C4
2 Plateau Stables ....................................... B4 7 Sunbird Ku Chawe...................................B4
8 Zomba Forest Lodge...............................A4

ÿ Sleeping ú Eating
3 Annie's Lodge.......................................... C4 Casa Rossa....................................... (see 4)
4 Casa Rossa .............................................. B4

If you’re keen to camp on the plateau, En- US$110; p) S Book at least a day ahead to
quire in Zomba or at the nearby Sunbird Ku stay at this four-room guesthouse owned
Chawe (%01-773388, 01-514211; www.sunbird by British-Malawian couple Tom and Pet-
malawi.com; incl breakfast s US$127-203, d US$157- al. Woodcarvings and Tom’s artwork dec-
233; naiW) hotel whether the campsite orate the Afro-chic rooms, and candles,
is functional again. ­paraffin and solar power light the off-the-
grid property. Hike up to the plateau or
oZomba Forest Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$$ wander the 8-hectare grounds, with its
(%0997 593325, 0992 802702; www.zomba 3.5km of walking trails and indigenous
forestlodge.com; per person with full board rainforest along the stream.

205

Blantyre & Limbe (p207), an eclectic art gallery (p207) and
the Society of Malawi Library & Archive
Founded by Scottish missionaries in 1876, (Map p208; %01-872617; www.societyofmalawi.
and named after the town in South La- org; 1st fl, Mandala House, Kaoshiung Rd; h9am-
narkshire, Scotland, where explorer David 4pm Mon-Fri) F.
Livingstone was born, Blantyre is Malawi’s
second-largest city. It’s more appealing and Museum of Malawi MUSEUM
cohesive than Lilongwe thanks to its com-
pact size and hilly topography, and though (Chichiri Museum; Map p206; %01-873258;
there’s not much to do here, it makes a good Kasungu Cres; adult/child under 13yr MK500/100;
springboard for exploring Majete Wildlife h7.30am-4.30pm) Malawi’s interesting na-
Reserve and Mt Mulanje. tional museum has a few gems, including
a royal ceremonial stool dating from the
Attached to the Blantyre’s eastern side, 16th century and a display on Gule Wam-
Limbe is home to a grand old mission kulu dances. The museum is between cen-
church, a minibus station and a golf club. tral Blantyre and Limbe, accessed from Moi
Unlike Blantyre, however, which has seen Rd opposite Chichiri Shopping Mall. Take a
a finessing of its restaurants and hotels, minibus headed for Limbe and ask to be let
Limbe has fallen into disrepair over the off at the museum.
last couple of decades. You may have to
change minibuses here, but it’s best to head St Michael and
straight on.
All Angels Church CHURCH
Malawi’s commercial and industrial hub, (CCAP Church; Map p208;
Blantyre has the country’s best and most di- www.st
verse choice of restaurants, a small selection michaelchurchmw.com; hservices 6am, 7am,
of lively watering holes and a smattering of 8.30am, 10.30am & 5pm Sun) This magnifi-
sights. Add to that tour operators, banks, cent red-brick Church of Central Africa M a l awi SBiolgauhnttthsyer&renA&cMtLaiilvmiabtweiies
internet cafes and other practicalities, and Presbyterian building was preceded by a
Blantyre makes a pleasant stopover. simpler structure, built by Scottish mis-
sionary Reverend DC Scott in 1882. In
1888 the missionaries started work on a
new, more impressive church with elabo-
1 Sights & Activities rate brickwork moulded into arches, but-
tresses, columns and towers, topped with
Mandala House HISTORIC BUILDING a grand basilica dome. The church is off

(Map p208; %01-871932; Kaoshiung Rd; Old Chileka Rd.
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) This
is the oldest building in Malawi, built in
1882 as a home for the managers of the Blantyre Sports Club GYM

African Lakes Corporation. It’s a quietly (Map p208; %01-835095, 01-821172; btsports
[email protected]; day membership adult/child
grand colonial house, encased in wrap­ under 18yr MK5500/1000; h6am-10pm, pool &
around verandas and set in lovely gar-
dens. Inside are the inviting Mandala Cafe golf course to 5pm) Established in 1896, and

HIKING ON THE ZOMBA PLATEAU

The southern half of the plateau is ideal for hiking. The network of tracks can be con-
fusing, though, so for more help with orientation there’s a 3D map of the plateau in the
Model Hut (h8.30am-4.30pm).

The Potato Path is the most popular hike at Zomba. It’s a direct route from town all
the way up to the plateau. To find the path, head up the main road to the plateau and turn
right at the firebreak line just past Casa Rossa guesthouse. From here a few paths climb
steeply through woodland and converge on the plateau near the Sunbird Ku Chawe hotel
(45 minutes).

From near the Sunbird Ku Chawe, the Potato Path goes straight across the southern
half of the plateau, sometimes using the park tracks, sometimes using narrow shortcuts,
and leads eventually to Old Ngondola village, from where it descends steeply into the
Domasi Valley.

Allow two to three hours for the ascent, and about 1½ hours coming down.

206

6666Greater Blantyre & Limbe
eR # 0 2 km
0 1 mile

11

DChileka International 1 k a Rd
–# (15km) 1 1 Ndirande Ring Rd

Old C hil e MakatGaoRmani Rd Ndirande
BLANTYRE £# Forest Reserve

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d
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Limbe Train Å@2

Station £#
Limbe Bus Station ›#
Pioneer D DaltLoivninRgsdtoAnvee

Thyolo (30km)

with a faint whiff of colonialism, this is a Henderson Street
great place to work up a sweat or keep the
kids amused. There’s a restaurant and bar, Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
and you can pay supplements to use the (Map p208; %01-823474; 19 Henderson St; incl
pool (adult/child MK2000/1000), gym, and breakfast s/d standard MK12,000/14,000, executive
tennis, squash and nine-hole golf courses. MK15,000/17,000; pW) Five minutes’ walk
It’s off Victoria Ave. from the town centre, this old-fashioned
place sits in a leafy garden and has a wel-
coming veranda. The seven rooms are tired
4 Sleeping but clean and cosy, with a mishmash of old
and new furniture, small TV, and tiled bath-
oDoogles HOSTEL $ room with shower.
(Map p208; %0999 186512; www.dooglesma
lawi.com; Mulomba Pl; dm US$15, r US$30-45;
piWs) Doogles is popular with dis- Hotel Victoria HOTEL $$
(Map p208; %01-823500; www.hotelvictoriamw.
cerning travellers of all stripes, its inviting com; Lower Sclater Rd; s/d incl breakfast from
pool and bar ringed by walls with a cool
sunset-safari design. From there, the com- MK45,000/50,000; paiWs) Upmarket
Victoria attracts corporate types and aid
plex leads to a big TV lounge, lush gardens, workers with its pool, marble lobby and
super-fresh en-suite rooms with shower,
clean six-bed dorms, and thatched en-suite air-conditioned restaurant. Eighty rooms
enjoy plump pillows, thick carpet, DSTV,
chalets with mozzie nets and fans. writing desk, fridge and less impressive

Blantyre Lodge HOTEL $ bathroom. Deluxe and larger executive
rooms are a big step up, with flat-screen
(Map p208; %01-834460; Old Chileka Rd; s/d TV, office chair, and bathroom with oval
incl breakfast MK10,500/14,000; paW) So-so
en-suite rooms with grotty bedspreads, TV, tub and shower. Ask for one away from Vic-
toria Ave.
bare white walls and a few sticks of furni-
ture. But it’s close to the main bus station.
Opt for a room out the back, away from the Kabula Lodge LODGE $$
(%01-821216; www.kabulalodge.co.mw; Kabula Hill;
main drag. incl breakfast s/d from US$40/50, without bath-

room US$20/30; paW) Hidden down a dirt

207

road off Michiru Rd, on the crest of a hill stone terrace in the grounds of Mandala
northwest of the city centre, friendly Kabula House (p205), or inside at this chilled cafe
enjoys peace aplenty and scenic mountain adorned with artworks and guidebooks.
views from its breakfast terrace. Executive Regulars love the Italian cuisine, fillet steak,
rooms are equally pleasing, with wrought- Thai chicken, freshly brewed coffee, iced tea
iron beds, minimal decor, DSTV, fridge and and gelato. A real oasis.
air-con, but some rooms and shared bath-
rooms are basic, so ask to see a few. o21 Grill on Hanover STEAK $$
(Map p208; %01-820955; Protea Hotel Ryalls,
2 Hanover Ave; mains MK7000; h11am-3pm &
Malawi Sun Hotel HOTEL $$$
(Map p208; %01-824808; www.malawisunho
tel.com; Robins Rd; incl breakfast s/d standard 4-10pm Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun; paWv)
Established in 1921, this historical restau-
US$100/125, executive US$145/170; pnai rant is one of Malawi’s more sophisticated
Ws) This comfortable hotel has a small
African-style lounge with mountain views, a eateries, occupying a library-like room with
salmon-coloured seats and ornate carpets.
tempting swimming pool and a food court. The menu focuses on meat dishes, from
The 73 rooms are decent, with DSTV, comfy
beds, fridge, tea and coffee. It’s worth up- South African Karoo lamb curry to flaming
Jack Daniel’s steak, but it also has a good
grading to executive from standard (also selection of fish, pasta, salad and decadent
called ‘ethnic’ for their Malawian decorative
touches); shoot for a balcony overlooking desserts.

the hills. oCasa Mia INTERNATIONAL $$$
(%01-827871; www.blantyreaccommodation.com;
5 Eating Kabula Hill Rd; mains MK5000-11,000; h6.30am- M a l awi SBE aoltauintnthgyerren &M Lailmabwei
9.30pm; paWv) Don your smarts for
Food Court FAST FOOD $ dinner at this classy guesthouse restaurant.
(Map p208; %0997 915519; www.malawisunhotel.
com; Malawi Sun Hotel, Robins Rd; Blue Savannah The wine-stacked interior, with its antique
Cinzano prints, white tablecloths and expat
mains MK2000; h8am-9pm) With striking clientele, is a pleasant environment for dish-
views of the mountains, this breezy alfresco
courtyard is surrounded by a bakery (Bread es ranging from steaks and carbonara to red
wine–marinaded Karoo lamb and chambo
Basket), a fast-food joint (Blue Savannah) Thermidor. Lunch on the breezy terrace is
and an ice-cream parlour (Scoops & Shakes),
the latter selling iced coffees, milkshakes more casual.

and ice-cream cones. 6 Drinking & Nightlife

Chichiri Food Court FAST FOOD $ Kwa Haraba CAFE
(Map p206; Chichiri Shopping Mall, Chipembere
Hwy) This alfresco food court is popular with (Map p208; %0994 764701, 0993 801564; www.
facebook.com/KwaHaraba-138690532886703/;
families for its play area and bouncy castle. Phekani House; h7.30am-5pm Sun-Tue & Thu,
The fast-food outlets here include a pizze-
ria (Jungle Pepper), ice-cream parlours and to 8pm Wed, to 10pm Fri & Sat) This craft shop
and cafe serves fresh juices bursting with
fried-chicken joints. goodness and light meals such as feta piz-

oL’Hostaria ITALIAN $$ za, ham and cheese pita sandwiches, salads
and toasted sandwiches. The wonderful
(Map p208; %0888 282828; www.facebook.com/ masks, paintings, secondhand paperbacks
hostariaMW; Sharpe Rd; mains MK5500; hnoon-
2pm & 6.30-9pm Tue-Sun; pWc) In an at- and fabric make a creative environment.
Cocktails and music from 6pm Friday and
mospheric old house with black-and-white Saturday, and poetry between 6pm and
floors and a large veranda overlooking a
lawn, L’Hostaria offers Italian recipes and 7pm Wednesday. Phekani House is off Glyn
Jones Ave.
fresh produce that attract local expats in
the know. Come for a relaxing evening and 7 Shopping
wood-fired pizzas, homemade pastas and
steaks. Mandala House ARTS & CRAFTS

oMandala Cafe (Map p208; %01-871932; Kaoshiung Rd;
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) Sit-
CAFE $$ uated in Mandala House (p205), the oldest
(Map p208; %01-871932; Mandala House, Kaoshi-
ung Rd; mains MK5000-6000; h8.30am-4.30pm colonial dame in the city, this eclectic gal-
Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat; pWv) Sit on a breezy lery features vividly coloured, contemporary

M a l awi SB lhoauontptphiyenrrgen &M La limabwei 208

Blantyre City Centre e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
A B CD EF G
î# 17
D Kabula ÿ# 9
DLodge RoRbdins @Å1 Mulomba Pl
(400m)
26
1 Glyn Jones Rd Laws Rd 10 ú# # Þ# 2 New Chileka Rd 1
Casa Mia ü# 13
(1km) Mulomba Pl ÿ# 6 Ü#
›# 25 3
Sharpe Rdú# 11 Chilembwe Rd 14 Livingstone Ave ›# 27 Old Chileka Rd
þ# St David's St 2
St AnSdtrew's
Reserve Bank Hanover Ave Victoria Ave î# St GeStorge's
Building
2 Henderson St 19 Stewart St›# 21Glyn Jones Rd

666Independence Dr ÿ# 7 ÿ# 5
›#
Haile Selassie Rd
23 Blantyre
£# Train Station

›# 22 ›# 24

3 Ø# 4 #ï 20 Browns Rd Mudi River Chipembere Hwy D

666#18 Limbe 3
(5.5km)

666 Victoria Ave Kaoshiung Rd Mackle Rd Kidney Cres 16 þ#
4 Lower Sclater Rd C
8 Moi
ÿ#
Å@2
666A B
Chichiri Shopping
Mall (2km);
Limbe (6km)

EF
1 15 r Cres 4
â# þ# G
D
ú# 12
Stephen Rd
D

209

Blantyre City Centre û Drinking & Nightlife
13 Kwa Haraba..............................................C2
æ Sights
1 Mandala House ....................................... D4 þ Shopping
2 Shree Hindu Temple................................C1 Central Africana Bookshop...........(see 16)
Society of Malawi Library &
Archive ......................................... (see 15) 14 Craft Stalls................................................B2
3 St Michael and All Angels Church..........G1 15 Mandala House........................................D4
16 Uta Waleza Centre .................................. F3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours ï Information
4 Blantyre Sports Club.............................. B3 17 Blantyre Adventist Hospital................... B1
18 Immigration Office ..................................B3
ÿ Sleeping
5 Blantyre Lodge.........................................E2 Jambo Africa...................................(see 16)
6 Doogles ..................................................... E1 19 One Stop Pharmacy................................B2
7 Henderson Street Guest House............ A2 20 Tourist Office ...........................................B3
8 Hotel Victoria........................................... B4 ï Transport
9 Malawi Sun Hotel.....................................B1 21 AXA House Coach Terminal ..................C2
22 City Bus Station.......................................C3
ú Eating 23 Intercape .................................................. E2
10 21 Grill on Hanover...................................B1 24 Mibawa Bus Depot ..................................C3
Food Court........................................(see 9) 25 National Bus Company...........................E2
11 L'Hostaria................................................. A2 26 SS Rent A Car .......................................... C1
12 Mandala Cafe .......................................... D4 27 Wenela Bus Station................................. E2

work by local artists, as well as sculpture, Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) For visa extensions or M a l awi BSI nolfauontrthmyearrteni o&MnLailmabwei
old maps and prints, and huge, carved temporary-residency applications.
wooden thrones.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Central Africana Bookshop BOOKS Blantyre Adventist Hospital (Map p208;
% hospital 01-820006, medical appointments
(Map p208; %01-876110; www.centralafricana. 01-820399; Kabula Hill Rd; h casualty 24hr)
com; Uta Waleza Centre, Kidney Cres; h8am- This private hospital and medical and dental
5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) This long-running clinic charges MK5400 for a doctor’s consulta-
bookshop on two levels has an excellent se- tion and MK2000 for a malaria test. Cash only.
lection of Africana, ranging from dusty old One Stop Pharmacy (Map p208; % 0888
tomes to coffee-table books, and from novels 860230, 01-824148; Chilembwe Rd; h 8am-
and guidebooks to a section dedicated to 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) This well-
L­ ivingstone. stocked pharmacy sells bilharzia tablets (if
you’ve been swimming in the lake), as well as
Uta Waleza Centre MALL malaria prophylaxis.

(Map p208; Kidney Cres) With a few design TOURIST INFORMATION
shops and an excellent bookshop, Uta Jambo Africa (Map p208; % 0882 904166,
Waleza is a good place to buy presents and 0111 572709; www.jambo-africa.com; Uta
souvenirs. Waleza Centre, Kidney Cres; h 8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) A great one-stop
Craft Stalls ARTS & CRAFTS shop for travel tickets, car hire, excursions
and accommodation, Jambo owns a park
(Map p208; Chilembwe Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) lodge and two self-catering cottages on the
There are good craft stalls under an awning lake. It has a second office next to the Shree
next to the salmon-coloured Malawi Savings Hindu Temple (Map p208; % 01-820761; Glyn
Bank building. The work on sale is excellent Jones Rd).
and browsing is refreshingly hassle free. Tourist Office (Map p208; % 01-827066;
Government Complex, Victoria Ave; h7.30am-
88 Information 4.30pm Mon-Fri) In a cottage-like tax building
dating to 1939, this small office covers the
IMMIGRATION whole country. It stocks a few leaflets and
Immigration Office (Map p208; % 01-823777; maps, sells wall maps of Malawi (MK5000),
www.immigration.gov.mw; Government Com-
plex, Victoria Ave; h7.30am-noon & 12.30-4pm

210 CAR
and can offer enthusiastic, though not always Avis (% 01-622719), Budget and SS Rent A
particularly helpful, advice. Car (Map p208; % 01-822836; www.ssrentacar.
com; Glyn Jones Rd) have offices in the city.
88 Getting There & Away

AIR Mulanje
Blantyre’s Chileka International Airport (% 01-
827900) is about 15km north of the city centre. Mulanje is famous for both its infinity of
A taxi to the city costs around MK15,000, but emerald-green tea plantations, and the ach-
agree on a price with the driver first. The price ingly pretty Mt Mulanje – a massif of some
can be negotiated down a bit if you’re going from 20 peaks reaching over 2500m. The town
the city to the airport. If your budget doesn’t makes a reasonable base for forays into the
include taxis, frequent local buses between the massif, with a good lodge and a few eateries
City Bus Station and Chileka Township pass the along the main road.
airport gate (the fare’s around MK2000).
A daily National Bus Company bus runs
BUS & MINIBUS to/from Blantyre (MK1500, 1½ hours), as do
Blantyre’s main bus station for long-distance regular minibuses to/from Limbe (MK1500,
buses is Wenela Bus Station (Map p208; Mu- 1½ hours); on the minibus, you may have to
lomba Pl), east of the centre. Companies includ- change in Thyolo. If you’re heading for the
ing National Bus Company (Map p208; % 0888 border with Mozambique, minibuses and
561365; Wenela Bus Station, Mulomba Pl) have matolas (pickups) run to Muloza (MK800,
daily services to Lilongwe (MK3500, four hours), 30 minutes).
Mzuzu (MK7500, nine to 10 hours), Zomba
M a l awi MSGoeutulttaihnnejgernThMearel a&wAi way (MK1500, 1½ to two hours), Mulanje (MK1500, Mulanje Infocentre TOURIST INFORMATION
1½ hours) and Karonga (MK10,500, 14 hours).
(%0888 122645, 01-466466; infomulanje@sdnp.
AXA buses depart from the terminal (Map org.mw; Phalombe Rd, Chitakale Trading Centre;
p206; Chipembere Hwy) next to the Chichiri h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun)
Shopping Mall, then pick up at the central office The best source of information about hik-
(Map p208; % 01-820411, 01-820100; www. ing on Mt Mulanje and beyond, with help-
axacoach.com; St George’s St; h ticket office ful staff and documentation. They can book
6am-5pm) en route to Lilongwe (MK11,300). the Mulanje forestry huts and organise
These Super Executive coaches leave in both guides and porters, as well as tours to local
directions at 7am and 4.30pm. Cheaper Special waterf­alls, tea estates and villages, the latter
and Executive buses to/from Mzuzu (Special p­ otentially including a Gule Wamkulu cere-
MK11,550, Executive MK12,600) via Lilongwe mony (with notice).
(MK6350, MK8100) leave in both directions at
7am and 6pm. Buses taking the lakeshore route 4 Sleeping & Eating
to Mzuzu don’t work to a fixed schedule but leave
when they’re full, normally around 5pm. For all Kokotowa Executive Lodge LODGE $
services, it’s best to book ahead. (%01-466743; Chitakale Trading Centre; incl break-
fast s/d/tr standard MK10,000/11,500/13,000, ex-
Most intercity minibuses leave from Limbe ecutive MK12,000/13,000/15,000; pi) Popular
Bus Station (Map p206), off Livingstone Ave; for conferences, Kokotowa’s 12 rooms (with
it’s normally fastest to take a minibus there more coming) are basic but clean, spacious
(MK200, 15 minutes), either from the Mibawa and comfortable, with large beds, plentiful
depot (Map p208) or the roadside, then pick furniture and fans. The whole shebang is
up a long-distance service. A taxi there costs arranged around a courtyard with bar, res-
around MK4000. Routes from Limbe include taurant and secure parking. Find it off the
Zomba (MK1500, one hour), Mulanje (MK1500, M2, on the Blantyre side of the Chitakale
1¼ hours) and Mangochi (for Monkey Bay; junction; follow the sign for the altogether
MK4000, five hours). less impressive Chididi Motel.

Minibuses to Chikwawa (for Majete Wildlife Mulanje Motel MOTEL $
Reserve; MK1500, 1½ hours) depart from Blan- (%01-466245; M2; r MK5000; p) Mulanje Mo-
tyre’s City Bus Station (Map p208). tel’s 18 basic but clean rooms have flowery
bedding, fan and functional if frugal bath-
The car park next to Blantyre Lodge is the room; those in the rear annexe are rather
pickup and drop-off point for long-distance bus dingy. Around the front courtyard are a res-
companies headed for Jo’burg. Intercape (Map
p208; % 0999 403398; www.intercape.co.za;
Blantyre Lodge, Old Chileka Rd) goes to Jo’burg
at 8am daily (MK45,000, two days).

taurant and a bar with pool table.

211

oKara O’Mula LODGE $$ Some people come to the base of the moun-
(%01-466515; www.karaomula.com; incl break- tain just for a day visit, but the stunning scen-
fast s/d US$50/65, chalets US$65/75; pWs) ery, easy access, clear paths and well-main-
Hidden up a dirt track right beneath Mt tained huts make Mulanje a fine hiking area
Mulanje, this delightful eyrie cloaked in worthy of a few days. While here, look out for
lush vegetation has a swimming pool (fed the endemic Mulanje cedar, which can grow
by fresh water from a small waterfall), a up to 40m high. The abundant wildlife also
cosy thatched bar, back-up power and includes klipspringers, duikers, vervet and
a long veranda to savour the wonderful blue monkeys, rock hyraxes (dassies), black
views of mountains and tea estates. It’s eagles, buzzards, hawks and kestrels.
homey, welcoming and the perfect base
from which to hike. On the second Saturday in July, the
20-year-old Mt Mulanje Porters Race fol-
oHuntingdon House HISTORIC HOTEL $$$ lows a gruelling, rocky route over the coun-
(%0882 599717, 0993 121854; www.huntingdon-ma try’s highest peak. It was originally only for
lawi.com; Satemwa Tea and Coffee Estate,Thyolo; per porters and guides, but these days anyone
person all-inclusive US$325, self-catering bungalows can take the 22km challenge. Contact Mu-
US$225; pnW) Between Mulanje and Blan- lanje Infocentre (p210) for details.
tyre, this atmospheric colonial homestead,
still run by the founding family, offers accom- 4 Sleeping

modation among the emerald-green fields of 4 Below the Mountain
a Shire Highlands tea estate. Book ahead to
stay in one of the five rooms, with their coat
stands, claw-footed bathtubs and pervasive Likhubula Forest Lodge LODGE $ M a l awi SMloueuletaphniejnergn M a l aw i
(%0888 773792, 0111 904005; Likhubula; camp-
mood of calm, and enjoy the excellent res- ing MK3500, s/d from MK12,100/14,100; p) This
taurant (1-/2-course lunch MK5500/7000, after-
noon tea MK7500, dinner MK12,000; hnoon-8pm; faded but lovely old colonial house has lots
of character: a homey kitchen, five clean
pWv) and tea tastings (%01-473500; tast- rooms (two with their own bathroom), a
ings per person US$10; htastings 10.30am-3.30pm
Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun), guided walks veranda, a communal lounge with rocking
chairs, and a nightly fire crackling. The easy
and mountain biking. charm of the staff and the recommended

Mulanje Pepper PIZZA $$ food make it a memorable place to over-
night, with breakfast, half board and full
(%0999 826229, 0888 826229; www.junglepep board available.
perpizza.com/mulanje; Phalombe Rd, Chitakale
Trading Centre; pizzas MK4500-5600; h11am-
9pm Wed-Mon) Underneath Mulanje Info­ Thuchila Tourist Lodge LODGE $
(%0881 327988; www.facebook.com/thuchila
centre, the former Pizzeria Basilico (and tourist.lodge; camping MK5000, incl breakfast
country cousin of Blantyre’s Jungle Pepper)
serves an excellent selection of wood-fired
pizzas (you can see them rolling the dough
before your very eyes), as well as a range HIKING ON MT MULANJE
of pastas and grills. It has a breezy terrace
overlooking the street. There are about six main routes up and
down Mulanje. The three main ascent
Mt Mulanje routes go from Likhubula: the Chambe
Plateau Path (also called the Skyline
A huge hulk of twisted granite rising majes- Path), the Chapaluka Path and the
tically from the surrounding plains, Mt Mu- relatively easy Lichenya Path (aka
lanje towers over 3000m high. All over the the Milk Run). Other routes, more often
mountain are dense green valleys and rivers used for the descent, are Thuchila Hut
that drop from sheer cliffs to form dazzling to Lukulezi Mission, Sombani Hut to
waterfalls. The locals call it the ‘Island in Fort Lister Gap, and Minunu Hut to the
the Sky’, and on misty days (and there are Lujeri Tea Estate.
many) it’s easy to see why: the massif is
shrouded in a cotton-wool haze, its highest Once you’re on the massif, a network
peaks bursting through the cloud to touch of paths links the huts and peaks, and
the heavens. many permutations are possible. It
takes anything from two to six hours to
hike between one hut and the next.

212 e# 0 5 km
0 2.5 miles
Mt Mulanje B C D
A Phalombe #\ untain

1 FortPhalombe River Mchese Mo R 1
Thuch ila River MPcehaekse
Lister Gap (2289m)

ÿ# 9 \#

Nambiya

Chigaru
Peak
(2654m) R Litakala
Peak
R (2368m)
Chambe Peak Nandalanda
2 (2557m) R 2

R Peak Namasile
R(2590m) Peak
CBhaamsinbe 3 C(h2Pi6nRe6za3akmm)a(268M7umlo)zaMR(ia2vRtP6eare4ma3kmba)le
Chambe Khuto R RBausoin
Plateau ÿ# Peak
4 ÿ#
Path uka Path R

1#ï1 ÿ#7 LCic(hh2Cie3lhen5P1ma5yepÿ#mabaakaP)lRatch CJChuhinlicesmte(i2Lpob6ionBca8WPha6CeseemoainsnRklyt) aRN(2o8Sr9(PSto31eaRhPu0mapRet0Pkiha)t1ekwmakaR) DPzeoalke Madzeka
\# ÿ# (2715m) Basin
Nakodzwe R Nayawani
3 Likhubula 2 (P2e9a6k4m) North Peak 3
(2284m)
LikhRuibvuerla
M a l awi SMloueuletaphniejnergn M a l aw i Y# R
Nayawani South
Peak (2345m)

R

(2637m) j ri R #\ Manene
(2P6e4a0km)
Nadonetsa
LPiclahteenayua N(LdiitttaleRRiuveor)
PaBtohma
6 Chitakale iver
4 \# #ú 10 Lu e 4
ÿ# Mulanje
Lichenya River
\# ÿ#8 ÿ# 5 Nessa#\

ABCD

Mt Mulanje baboons outside), with lush gardens nestled
in the shadow of the massif. There are basic
ÿ Sleeping rooms with shared bathroom, while comforta-
1 CCAP Cottage .......................................A3 ble blue-walled en-suite chalets further up the
2 CCAP Guesthouse................................A3 slope have fridge, fan and a swimming hole
3 Chambe Hut ..........................................B2 below. The bar-restaurant (mains MK2000)
4 France's Cottage...................................B2 serves curries, chambo, nsima and the like.
5 Kara O'Mula ...........................................A4
6 Kokotowa Executive Lodge.................A4 CCAP Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
7 Likhubula Forest Lodge .......................A3 (%0888 863632, 0881 188887; www.ccapblan tyre-
8 Mulanje Motel........................................A4 synod.org/ccap-likhubula-mulanje.html; Likhu­bula;
9 Thuchila Tourist Lodge........................ B1 camping US$5, dm US$11, s/d/q from US$47/55/93,
r without bathroom per person US$16) The CCAP
ú Eating (Church of Central Africa Presbyterian)
10 Mulanje Pepper.....................................A4 Mission, after the Likhubula gate, has cosy
rooms, four- and 12-bed dorms, and one- and
ï Information two-bedroom self-c­atering chalets (num-
11 Likhubula Forestry Office ....................A3 ber one is homey). The friendly guesthouse
Mulanje Infocentre...................... (see 10) among jacaranda trees is a pleasant place to
rest after a long hike. Breakfast (US$4), and
s/d MK15,000/17,000, without bathroom from lunch and dinner (US$6), are available to
MK6000/7500; pW) This rustic lodge has an both guests and nonguests.
edge-of-the-world feel (maybe it’s the caged

213

4 On the Mountain rain streams can become swollen and impass-
able – do not try to cross them! You should wait
There are eight forestry huts on Mulanje: until the flood subsides or adjust your route to
Chambe, Chisepo, Lichenya, Thuchila, Chin- cross in safety further upstream. Also be aware
zama, Minunu, Madzeka and Sombani. Each that much of the mountain’s granite surface can
is equipped with benches, tables and open become very slippery and dangerous when wet.
fires with plenty of wood. Some have sleep- Even during the dry season, it’s not uncommon to
ing platforms (no mattresses); in others you get rain, cold winds and thick mists, which make it
just sleep on the floor. You provide your own easy to get lost.Between May and August, periods
food, cooking gear, candles, sleeping bag and of low cloud and drizzle (called chiperone) can
stove (although you can cook on the fire). A last several days, and temperatures drop below
caretaker chops wood, lights fires and brings freezing. Always carry a map, a compass and
water, for which a small tip should be paid. warm and waterproof clothing in case the weather
Payments must be made at Likhubula For- changes.
estry Office – show your receipt to the hut Mountain Club of Malawi (% 0888 842701,
caretaker. 01-821269; www.mcm.org.mw) Comprehensive
source of info on hiking, mountain biking and
rock climbing in the massif.

CCAP Cottage CHALET $ 88 Getting There & Away
(%0888 863632, 0881 188887; per person US$8)
On the Lichenya Plateau, this basic cottage The dirt road to Likhubula turns off the main
is a step up from the forestry huts found sealed Blantyre–Mulanje road at Chitakale Trad-
elsewhere in the mountains, with utensils ing Centre, about 2km northwest of the centre of
in the kitchen, plus mattresses and blan- Mulanje town – follow the signpost to Phalombe.
kets. You can make reservations at the CCAP M a l awi MSI noafujoetrthmeearWtniiloMdnlailfaewRi eserve
Guesthouse, from where the cottage is a six- If you’re coming from Blantyre on the bus, ask
hour walk. to be dropped at Chitakale. From there, you can
pick up a matola (pickup), minibus (MK1000) or
France’s Cottage CHALET $ bicycle taxi (MK700) to Likhubula. Alternatively
(%0888 122645; www.mcm.org.mw/mulan- you can walk (11km, two to three hours); it’s a
je_huts.php; per person camping/cottages pleasant hike with good views of the southwest-
MK500/1000) This historical two-bedroom ern face of Mulanje on your right.

cottage sleeps six and comes with a living
room complete with cooking fireplace.
There are two single beds and two bunks. Majete Wildlife Reserve
It’s in the Chambe Basin near the Chambe
Hut (per person camping/huts MK500/1000). Malawi’s only Big Five park, this rugged
Book through the Mulanje Infocentre or wilderness of hilly miombo (woodland) and
Likhubula Forestry Office – show your re- savannah hugs the west bank of the Shire
ceipt to the hut caretaker. River. Since African Parks took over its man-
agement in 2003, things have really been
88 Information looking up for the once heavily poached re-
serve. A perimeter fence has been erected,
Hiking on Mt Mulanje is controlled by the and accommodation and roads have been
Likhubula Forestry Office (% 0111 904005, massively upgraded. With Majete’s lion-­
0888 773792; h7.30am-4.30pm), at the small reintroduction program, the park (%0999
village of Likhubula, about 15km north of Mu- 521741; www.african-parks.org; person/vehicle
lanje town centre. Entry fees payable at the gate US$20/4; h6am-6pm) is now a conservation
are MK1000 per person, MK500 per vehicle, case study and an exciting destination.
and MK1000 per day for parking. Register here
with Macdonald and the friendly staff, and make Majete lies west of the Shire River, some
reservations for the mountain huts (or call in 70km southwest of Blantyre. Take the M1 to
advance). The office can also advise day-trippers Chikwawa, from where signs will direct you
about short hikes on the lower slopes. 20km to the reserve along 2WD-accessible
roads. By public transport, the nearest you
Also excellent for information and bookings is can get is Chikwawa.
the Mulanje Infocentre. Emmie and the knowl-
edgeable staff provide all pertinent information Regular minibuses run from Blantyre to
about hiking on the mountain and have a good Chikwawa (MK1500, 1½ hours). From there,
reference library of books and maps. the easiest option is to arrange a transfer
with your lodge, but you can privately hire a
Mulanje is a big mountain with notoriously matola (pickup; MK6000 to MK8000).
unpredictable weather. After periods of heavy

214 growth and deforestation, and one of the
Ulendo Airlink (p223) flies a few days a world’s highest HIV/AIDS infection rates
at about 10%. Going into 2017, leadership
week between the reserve airstrip, 1.5km difficulties continue to dominate headlines.
west of the gate, and destinations includ- However, there is good news in the conser-
ing Lilongwe (adult/child US$341/243) and vation sector, with animal translocations
Likoma Island. Charter flights are also avail- proceeding apace. Among the highlights:
able, as are discounted seats on upcoming 250 elephants are set to be translocated
departures; check the ‘bid to fly’ section of from Majete to Nkhotakota in 2017 and Li-
Ulendo Airlink’s website. wonde’s rhino sanctuary continues to con-
serve endangered black rhinos.
Community Campsite CAMPGROUND $
(%0999 521741; www.african-parks.org; camping/ History
tent hire US$10/25, gazebo s/d US$12/15; p)
Enabling visitors on a budget to stay in the The Difaqane (‘The Crushing)’
reserve and fully immerse themselves in the
wildlife-viewing activities, this campground Also known as the Mfecane, meaning the
has shady places to pitch up, park or sleep on ‘crushing’ or ‘scattering’, the period between
a stilted gazebo under the stars. There’s drink- 1815 and about 1840 saw indigenous tribes
able borehole water, a thatched bar, clean in Southern Africa involved in internecine,
ablution blocks and hot showers, as well as bloody struggles. Much of this can be attrib-
barbecues, cooking utensils and free firewood. uted to one man, Shaka, king of the Zulu
tribe. In the early 19th century there were
oMkulumadzi Lodge LODGE $$$ three centralised kingdoms: the Ngwane,
(%01-794491; www.mkulumadzi.com; per person Mdwandwe and Mthethwe. In 1869 Shaka,
all-inclusive US$445; paiWs) Romanti- ruler of the Mthethwe, revolutionised mili-
M a l awi MGU NeatDltaEiwRnSigTTAToNhdeDaryMeA&L AAWwIay cally reached by a suspension bridge over a tary warfare by replacing the throwing spear
croc-infested river, this extraordinary lodge with a stabbing spear and surrounding his
is a fusion of African tradition and boutique enemy in a tight horseshoe then closing in
chic. The eight chalets are artfully blended on them. Very soon widespread massacres
with the bush, with grass roofs, step-in rain spread across Southern Africa, depopulat-
showers and windows offering widescreen ing countries and killing some two million
views of the Shire River as you flop in a people.
sunken, candlelit bath.
Among those that fled were the
oThawale Camp LODGE $$$ Mdwandwe clan, who headed for Mozam-
(%0999 521741; www.african-parks.org; chalets bique, coercing the local Tonga people to
per person with half board/full board/full board plus form a cooperative army with them – the
activities from US$138/150/180; p) S Situated Jere-Ngoni. By 1825, blazing their own trail
around a watering hole frequented by an- of carnage, the Jere-Ngoni entered Malawi,
telopes and warthogs, this upmarket bush terrorising the Yao people near the lake and
camp is about 3km inside the reserve from the Tumbuka people to the north, raiding
the main entrance. The standard, luxury villages, butchering old men and forcibly
and family tented chalets on raised wooden enlisting young men. The army settled on
platforms feel safari-ready with their khaki Lake Malawi and were to remain there un-
sheets, outside barbecues and private veran- til their Mdwandwe chief’s death in 1845.
das overlooking the floodlit watering hole. This bloody period is remembered as ‘The
­Killing’.
UNDERSTAND MALAWI

Malawi Today The Dark Days of Slavery

The smiles travellers encounter in ‘the warm Slavery, and a slave trade, had existed in
heart of Africa’ belie a country grappling Africa for many centuries, but in the early
with the disasters of drought, flooding and 19th century demand from outside Africa
food shortages. These environmental chal- increased considerably. Swahili-Arabs, who
lenges are set against a background of po- dominated the trade on the east coast of
litical corruption, unsustainable population Africa, pushed into the interior, using pow-
erful local tribes such as the Yao to raid

215

and capture their unfortunate neighbours. turn of the 19th century some 6000 Africans
Several trading centres were established in were leaving the country every year; this
Malawi, including Karonga and Nkhotakota had escalated to 150,000 by the 1950s.
– towns that still have a Swahili-Arab influ-
ence today. Transition & Independence M a l awi UHG NeistDttEoiRrnSygTATNheDrMeA&L AAWwIay

Livingstone & the First After WWI the British began allowing the
Missionaries African population a part in administering
the country, although it wasn’t until the
The first Europeans to arrive in Malawi were 1950s that Africans were actually allowed to
Portuguese explorers who reached the inte- enter the government.
rior from Mozambique in the early 1600s.
Its most famous explorer, though, was David In 1953, in an attempt to boost its slug-
Livingstone from Scotland, whose explora- gish development, Nyasaland was linked
tion heralded the arrival of Europeans in a with Northern and Southern Rhodesia in
way that was to change Malawi forever. the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland.
But the federation was opposed by the pro-­
In 1858, when Livingstone found his route independence Nyasaland African Congress
up the Zambezi blocked, he followed a ma- (NAC) party, led by Dr Hastings Kamuzu
jor tributary called the Shire into southern Banda. The colonial authorities declared a
Malawi, reaching Lake Malawi in September state of emergency and Banda was jailed.
1859 – and providing fodder for thousands
of tourist brochures to come by reportedly By mid-1960 Britain was losing interest
dubbing it the ‘lake of stars’. in its colonies. Banda was released, and he
returned to head the now renamed Malawi
Livingstone died in Zambia in 1873. In Congress Party (MCP), which won elections
1875 a group from the Free Church of Scot- held in 1962. The federation was dissolved,
land built a new mission at Cape Maclear, and Nyasaland became the independent
which they named Livingstonia, and in 1876 country of Malawi in 1964. Two years later,
the Established Church of Scotland built a Malawi became a republic and Banda was
mission in the Shire Highlands, which they made president.
called Blantyre. Cape Maclear proved to be
malarial, so the mission moved to Bandawe, Banda: Hero to Villain
then finally in 1894 to the high ground of
the eastern escarpment. This site was suc- Banda swiftly forced members of the oppo-
cessful; the Livingstonia mission flourished sition into exile, banning political parties,
and is still there today. declaring himself ‘president for life’ and out-
lawing the foreign press. Miniskirts, women
The Colonial Period in trousers, long hair for men and other
such signs of Western cultural influence
By the 1880s competition among European were also banned.
powers in the area was fierce. In 1889 Brit-
ain allowed Cecil Rhodes’ British South Af- Alongside this move towards dictator-
rica Company to administer the Shire High- ship, Banda remained politically conserva-
lands, and in 1891 the British Central Africa tive, giving political support to apartheid-era
(BCA) Protectorate was extended to include South Africa, which, in turn, rewarded Mala-
land along the western side of the lake. In wi with aid and trade.
1907 the BCA Protectorate became the colo-
ny of Nyasaland. With the end of the Cold War in the
1990s, South Africa and the West no longer
Colonial rule brought an end to slave needed to support Banda, and within the
traders and intertribal conflicts, but also country opposition was swelling. In 1992 the
introduced a whole new set of problems. Catholic bishops of Malawi condemned the
As the European settlers’ demand for land regime and called for change, and demon-
grew, the hapless local inhabitants found strations, both peaceful and violent, added
themselves labelled ‘squatters’ or tenants their weight to the bishops’ move. As a final
of a new landlord, and were forced to seek blow, donor countries restricted aid until
work on the white-settler plantations or to Banda agreed to relinquish total control.
become migrant workers in Northern and
Southern Rhodesia (present-day Zambia In June 1993 a referendum was held for
and Zimbabwe) and South Africa. By the the people to choose between a multiparty
political system and Banda’s autocratic rule.
Over 80% of eligible voters took part; those

216

M a l awi UHG NeistDttEoiRrnSygTATNheDrMeA&L AAWwIay GULE WAMKULU

Performed at funerals, major celebrations and male initiation ceremonies, Gule Wamkulu
or ‘Great Dance’ is the most popular dance among the Chewa. It can’t be performed by
just anyone; only members of a secret society, sometimes called the Nyau brotherhood,
are allowed to participate. Dancers perform clad in magnificent costumes and brightly
painted masks made from cloth, animal skins, wood and straw. Each dancer represents
a particular character (there are more than 150 Gule Wamkulu characters): a wild ani-
mal, perhaps, or an ancestral spirit, sometimes even a modern object such as a car or a
plane. Each character has its own meaning – for example, lions represent strength and
power and often appear at the funeral of a chief.

Supported by an entourage of drummers and singers, the dancers achieve a state
through which they can summon up the spirits of animals or dead relatives. As the drum-
beats quicken, they perform dances and movement with incredible energy and preci-
sion. Some of this is pure entertainment, some of it is a means of passing on messages
from ancestral spirits, and some of it aims to scare the audience – as a moral lesson or
a warning. Through acting out mischievous deeds, the Gule Wamkulu characters are
showing the audience, as representatives of the spirit world, how not to behave.

There are both individual and group performances and they take place during the day
and at night – when the audience watches from afar. The dance is widespread in central
and southern Malawi and is also performed in Zambia’s Eastern Province and the Tete
province of Mozambique.

voting for a new system won easily, and Ban- but to retain her as vice-president as she was
da accepted the result. elected in 2009 as his running mate. Then
in 2011 a diplomatic spat erupted between
The 1990s: Fresh Hope Mutharika and the UK after a leaked British
document accused him of being autocratic.
At Malawi’s first full multiparty election in Mutharika hit back, expelling the British
May 1994, the victor was the United Demo- High Commissioner; immediately, Malawi’s
cratic Front (UDF), led by Bakili Muluzi. He biggest donor froze millions of dollars of aid.
quickly closed political prisons, encouraged
freedom of speech and print, and initiated By the end of 2011, Malawi was crippled
free primary-school education; he also un- by soaring fuel prices of up to 150% and
dertook several economic reforms with the terrible shortages that ground the country’s
help of the World Bank and the IMF. already ailing industry to a halt. Foreign
exchange was also banned as Mutharika
In November 1997 Dr Banda died. His age took the inflammatory measure of inflat-
was unknown, but he was thought to be 99. ing Malawi’s currency on the international
markets.
In 2002, after failing to pass a bill that
would have given him life presidency, Mu- On 5 April 2012 Mutharika suffered a
luzi chose Bingu wa Mutharika as his suc- heart attack. In the following days, the army
cessor, and in 2004 Mutharika duly won the placed a cordon around Joyce Banda’s house
election. The new leader resigned from the to assist her constitutional succession to
UDF and set up his own party, the Demo- power (lest Mutharika’s supporters enact a
cratic Progressive Party (DPP). A massive coup). She was sworn in as Malawi’s first fe-
famine in 2005 saw Malawi bear the brunt male president on 7 April.
of crop failure and drought in the region.
In 2006, under the Highly Indebted Poor Joyce Banda: Unfulfilled Promise
Country Initiative, Malawi qualified for debt
relief. In 2012 Banda took some very brave steps
to get her house in order: first, she deval-
Mutharika: Malawi’s New ued the kwacha by 40%; next, she sold the
Dictator US$15 million presidential jet, saving the
poor country US$300,000 a year in main-
In 2010 Mutharika expelled his deputy, Joyce tenance and insurance. Meanwhile, she
Banda, from the party, but he had no choice proved herself a shrewd international diplo-

217

mat; foreign funding to Malawi swiftly re- LAKE OF STARS M a l awi UCG uNeltDtEuiRrnSgeTATNheDrMeA&L AAWwIay
sumed, with the IMF agreeing to a donation MUSIC FESTIVAL
of US$157 million.
One of the region’s largest spectacles,
Banda’s presidency lasted until 2014, this three-day music festival features
when her predecessor’s brother, Peter live acts from around Africa and Europe.
Mutharika, was voted in. Her two-year term It takes place in a different lakeshore
was rocked by the ‘cashgate’ scandal, which venue each year, with proceeds bene-
saw international aid temporarily frozen fiting charity. Booking accommodation
when up to US$100 million disappeared well in advance is essential, but there
from government coffers. She is reportedly are normally camping spots available
planning to run in the 2019 election. until the last minute.

Culture The Arts

Malawi’s main ethnic groups are Chewa, Literature
dominant in the centre and south; Yao in
the south; and Tumbuka in the north. Oth- Poetry is very popular. The late Steve Chi-
er groups include the Ngoni (also spelt An- mombo was a leading poet whose collec-
goni), inhabiting parts of the central and tions include Napolo and Other Poems. His
northern provinces; the Chipoka (or Phoka) most highly acclaimed work is a complex
in the central area; the Lambya; the Ngonde poetic drama, The Rainmaker. Another re-
(also called the Nyakyusa) in the northern turned exile, Jack Mapanje, published his
region; and the Tonga, mostly along the first poetry collection, Of Chameleons and
lakeshore. Gods, in 1981.

There are small populations of Asian and Malawi’s most acclaimed novelist is the
European people living mainly in the cities late Legson Kayira, whose semi-autobio-
and involved in commerce, farming (main- graphical The Looming Shadow and I Will
ly tea plantations) and tourism. The Indian Try earned him acclaim in the 1970s. A later
community is well established, with many work to look out for is The Detainee. Anoth-
businesses owned and run by Indians, while er novelist is Sam Mpasu; also a politician,
the Chinese population is growing. he served a two-year jail sentence following
a corruption scandal in the 2000s. His No-
Around 83% of Malawians are Christians. body’s Friend was a comment on the secre-
Some are Catholic, while many follow indig- cy of Malawian politics – it earned him an
enous Christian faiths that have been estab- earlier two-year prison stint in 1975. After
lished locally. his release he wrote Political Prisoner 3/75
and later became minister for education in
Malawi has a significant Muslim popu- the new UDF government.
lation of around 13%, mostly living in the
south. Alongside the established churches,
many Malawians also follow traditional an-
imist religions.

MUST READ: THE BOY WHO HARNESSED THE WIND

When the 2001 drought brought famine, and terrible floods decimated his parents’
crops, 14-year-old William Kamkwamba was forced from school. While he was educating
himself at his old primary school, one book in particular spoke to him; it was about elec-
tricity generation through windmills.

A lightbulb moment flashed. Exhausted from his work in the fields every day, William
picked around for scrap and painstakingly began his creation: a four-bladed windmill.
Soon neighbours were coming to see him to charge their phones on his windmill.

When news of William’s invention spread, people from across the globe offered to help
him. He was shortly re-enrolled in college and travelling to America to visit wind farms,
and he has since been mentoring children on how to create their own independent elec-
tricity sources. The Boy Who Harnessed The Wind (by William Kamkwamba and Bryan
Mealer) is his amazing story, published in 2009.

218

Natural Environment SURVIVAL GUIDE

Pint-sized, landlocked Malawi is wedged 88 Directory A–Z
between Zambia, Tanzania and Mozam-
bique, measuring roughly 900km long and ACCOMMODATION
between 80km and 150km wide, with a total There are generally good selections of back-
area of 118,484 sq km. packer hostels and top-end accommodation but
fewer midrange guesthouses and hotels. One
Lying in a trough formed by the Rift Val- tip: consider sharing a bathroom; many budget
ley, Lake Malawi makes up over 75% of Ma- and midrange options have lovely rooms with a
lawi’s eastern boundary. West and south of bathroom for every two rooms. Camping offers
the lake, escarpments rise to high plateaus affordable access to high-end lodges, as many
covering much of the country. have campsites.

M a l awi DNS UiartReuVcrI tVaoAlLrEyGnUAv–IiDZrEo nmen t Wildlife ACTIVITIES
Birdwatching
In 2012 Malawi began reintroducing lions Malawi is a great destination for birding, with
at Majete Wildlife Reserve, finally giving the over 600 species recorded here. The best place
country its ‘Big Five’ stamp. Many people to start is the national parks. Liwonde is an ex-
head for Liwonde National Park, noted for cellent spot, with particularly good birdlife along
its herds of elephants and myriad hippos. the river, and the forests in Nyika are also good.
Along with Majete, it’s the only park in the For water birds, Elephant Marsh in Malawi’s far
country where you might see rhinos. south is your surest bet. Land & Lake Safaris
(p180) in Lilongwe can organise birdwatching
Elephants are also regularly seen in Nk- tours around the country.
hotakota Wildlife Reserve, Majete and Nyika Cycling
National Park. Nyika has the country’s larg- Several lakeshore lodges hire out mountain
est population of leopards and Nkhotakota bikes from about US$10 a day. Great moun-
has been bolstered by a historic elephant tain-biking areas include Nyika National Park,
translocation from Liwonde and Majete. with its hilly landscape and good network of dirt
Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve is known for tracks, and the Viphya Plateau. These areas’
its hippos, as well as elephants, buffaloes lodges offer rental bikes.
and antelope, but is currently in poor shape Diving, Snorkelling & Other Water Sports
due to unsatisfactory ­management. Lake Malawi’s population of colourful fish at-
tracts travellers to come scuba diving. The lake
Lake Malawi has more fish species than is reckoned by experts to be among the best
any other inland body of water in the world, freshwater diving areas in the world, and one of
with a total of over 1000, of which more than the cheapest places to learn how to dive. The
350 are endemic. The largest family of fish water is warm, and (depending on the season)
in the lake is the Cichlidae (cichlids). visibility and weather conditions are usually
good. Places where you can hire scuba gear and
For birdwatchers, Malawi is rewarding: take a PADI Open Water course include Nkhata
over 600 species have been recorded in the Bay, Cape Maclear, Likoma Island and Senga
country, and birds rarely spotted elsewhere Bay. If you don’t want to dive you can still enjoy
in Southern Africa are easily seen here, in- the fish: snorkelling gear can be hired from dive
cluding the Böhm’s bee-eater, wattled crane centres, and lakeside hotels rent out snorkels.
and African skimmer.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
National Parks
The following price ranges refer to an
Malawi has five national parks. These are en-suite double room excluding break-
(from north to south) Nyika, Kasungu, Lake fast, in high season.
Malawi (around Cape Maclear), Liwonde $ less than MK35,000 (US$50)
and Lengwe. There are also four wildlife re- $$ MK35,000–MK70,000 (US$50–
serves – Vwaza Marsh, Nkhotakota, Mwabvi US$100)
and Majete – meaning that 16.8% of Mala- $$$ more than MK70,000 (US$100)
wi’s land is protected.

Most parks and reserves cost US$10 per
person per day (each 24-hour period), plus
US$3 per car per day. Citizens and residents
pay less. All fees are payable in kwacha or
US dollars.

219

Upmarket lodges along the lake have facilities The following are in Lilongwe: M a l awi DS UirReVcI tVoA LryG UA –I DZE
for waterskiing or windsurfing. You can also British High Commission (Map p178; % 01-
go sailing, or join luxurious ‘sail safaris’ where 772400; www.gov.uk; City Centre)
everything is done for you – Danforth Yachting German Embassy (Map p178; % 01-772555;
(p197) and Pumulani (p199) in Cape Maclear www.lilongwe.diplo.de; Convention Dr, City
on the southern lakeshore can both organise Centre)
this. Kayaking is available at Cape Maclear and Irish Embassy (Map p178; % 0888 207543;
Nkhata Bay and at many of the lodges dotting www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/malawi; 3rd fl, Arwa
the lakeshore. House, African Unity Ave, City Centre)
Mozambican High Commission (Map p178;
Hiking & Rock Climbing % 01-774100; www.minec.gov.mz; Convention
The main areas for hiking are Mt Mulanje and Dr, City Centre)
the Nyika Plateau. Other areas include the Netherlands Honorary Consulate (% 0999
Zomba Plateau, and various small peaks around 960481; https://zimbabwe.nlembassy.org;
Blantyre. Mulanje is Malawi’s main rock-climbing Heavenly Close, Area 10)
area, with some spectacular routes and Africa’s South African High Commission (Map p178;
longest vertical rock wall, although local climb- % 01-773722; www.dirco.gov.za; Plot 19)
ers also visit smaller crags and outcrops. Rock US Embassy (Map p178; % 01-773166; li-
climbing can also be arranged in Livingstonia longwe.usembassy.gov; 16 Kenyatta Rd, City
and the Viphya Plateau. Centre)
Zambian High Commission (Map p178; % 01-
The Mountain Club of Malawi (p213) provides a 772590; www.facebook.com/zambiahighcom-
wealth of information about hiking and climbing missionlilongwe; City Centre)
on Mt Mulanje. Zimbabwean Embassy (Map p178; % 01-
774988, 01-774413; www.zimfa.gov.zw; Area 13)
BUSINESS HOURS
Banks Usually 8am to 3.30pm weekdays. INTERNET ACCESS
Bars Noon to 11pm. Across the country, most accommodation and
Post offices Generally 7.30am to 5pm week- restaurants catering to foreigners offer wi-fi,
days, sometimes with a break for lunch. In generally operated by Skyband (www.skyband.
Blantyre and Lilongwe, they’re open Saturday mw). The advantage of this system is that
morning too. you can buy a voucher (typically MK2000 for
Restaurants If they don’t serve breakfast, 500MB) and use it at multiple locations. The dis-
11am to 10pm. advantage is that Skyband hot spots can be hit
Shops and offices 8am to noon and 1pm to and miss, so many residents prefer to access the
5pm weekdays. Many shops also open Saturday internet on their phone using an Airtel (http://
morning. africa.airtel.com) SIM card. TNM (www.tnm.
co.mw) SIM cards are not as good for surfing the
CHILDREN web. Mobile-phone data typically costs MK5000
Child care Easy to arrange informally through for 1GB, valid for 30 days.
your hotel.
Restaurant high chairs Available at many big- Wi-fi is rarely free in budget accommodation
city restaurants. but may be in midrange and top-end places.
Nappies & Formula Widely available in major You’ll find internet cafes in Lilongwe, Blantyre
cities, but not elsewhere. and most towns.
Warning Never let your children swim in Lake
Malawi from just before dusk into the night. MONEY
There are many tragic stories about kids who Take some US dollars and a back-up card. ATMs
outstayed their welcome and got taken by are widespread and credit cards accepted.
crocs and hippos, who come out at this time. Power cuts scupper both; keep a reserve supply
of cash.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Australia Contact the Australian Embassy in EATING PRICE RANGES
Harare, Zimbabwe.
Canada Contact the Canadian High Commis- The following price ranges refer to a
sion in Maputo, Mozambique. standard main course.
France Contact the French Embassy in Harare, $ less than MK3500 (US$5)
Zimbabwe. $$ MK3500–MK7000 (US$5–US$10)
New Zealand Contact the New Zealand High $$$ more than MK7000 (US$10)
Commission in Pretoria, South Africa.

220 For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

ATMs PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Standard and National Banks are the best bet When one of these dates falls on a weekend, nor-
for foreigners wishing to withdraw cash, and mally the following Monday is a public holiday.
their ATMs accept Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus and Islamic holidays are also observed throughout
Maestro cards. ATMs are found in most cities Malawi by the Muslim population.
and towns including Lilongwe, Blantyre, Mzuzu, New Year’s Day 1 January
Karonga, Liwonde, Salima, Mangochi, Zomba John Chilembwe Day 15 January
and Nkhata Bay. Visa is most widely accepted. Martyrs’ Day 3 March
Easter March/April – Good Friday, Holy Satur-
ATMs dispense a maximum of MK40,000 per day and Easter Monday
withdrawal, but you can insert your card three Labour Day 1 May
times in a row, thus ending up with MK120,000 Kamuzu Day 14 May
(US$168). Your bank at home will charge you for Independence Day 6 July
each transaction. Alternatively you can go into Mother’s Day October, second Monday
the bank and withdraw your card limit in kwacha, Christmas Day 25 December
although you will have to queue and the tellers Boxing Day 26 December
are sometimes reluctant.
SAFE TRAVEL
It’s worth taking at least one back-up card, as Malawi is one of the safest African countries for
the banks often experience network problems: travellers, but you should still be reasonably
for example, sometimes foreign credit cards cautious and employ common sense.
work in the ATMs but debit cards don’t. ¨¨The cities are most dangerous. Catch taxis
and don’t wander around at night.
M a l awi DS UirReVcI tVoA LryG UA –I DZE Cash ¨¨Much of the danger comes from the chaotic
roads and unfit vehicles; drive carefully, and
Malawi’s unit of currency is the Malawian kwacha bail out if a minibus feels excessively unsafe.
(MK). This is divided into 100 tambala (t). ¨¨Take care to avoid environmental hazards
such as bilharzia and traveller’s diarrhoea.
Banknotes include MK1000, MK500, MK200,
MK100, MK50, MK20, MK10 and MK5. Coins Wildlife
are MK10, MK5, MK1, 50t, 20t, 10t, 5t, 2t and 1t, Potential dangers at Lake Malawi include en-
although the small tambala coins are virtually countering a hippo or crocodile after dusk, when
worthless. they come up onto beaches. The Shire River is
replete with crocodiles, and locals disappear
At big hotels and other places that actually in dugouts on a regular basis, so be careful
quote in US dollars you can pay in hard currency of dipping your hand in the water while on a
or kwacha at the prevailing exchange rate. As river safari. Popular tourist beaches are safe,
the US dollar is stronger than the kwacha, you although, just to be sure, you should seek local
will save money by paying with dollars where advice before diving in. Avoid sheltered, reedy
possible. beaches where bilharzia host snails are found.
The most dangerous animals in Malawi are the
ATMs and card machines generally don’t work mosquitoes that transmit malaria.
during the frequent power cuts, so carrying a
wad of kwacha, and preferably US dollars too, TELEPHONE & MOBILE PHONES
is wise. Mobile phones are in use everywhere, and cov-
erage is extensive. The major networks are Airtel
Credit & Debit Cards and TNM, with 099 and 088 prefixes respective-
ly. TNM has better coverage in rural areas and
You can use Visa cards at some but not all of is popular with locals. Airtel is popular among
the large hotels, high-end lodges and top-end expats and travellers; it also has good coverage,
restaurants (be warned that this will add a 5% to and works better in the cities, especially for
10% surcharge to your bill). MasterCard is less using the internet and social-media apps.
commonly accepted.
SIM cards are readily available from street
Inform your bank that you will be travelling in vendors for around MK1000. If you need to cut
Malawi. the card to fit your phone, there will invariably be
someone nearby ready to whip out his cutter for
Exchange Rates MK500 or so. You can buy top-up scratchcards
from vendors and shops. Cards generally come
Australia A$1 MK541 in maximum denominations of MK1000. Mo-
Canada C$1 MK532
Euro Zone €1 MK783
Japan ¥100 MK680
New Zealand NZ$1 MK511
South Africa ZAR10 MK515
UK UK£1 MK869
USA US$1 MK713

221

bile-phone data typically costs MK5000 for 1GB, Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com), which
valid for 30 days. has listings of current options. Otherwise, local
grass-roots opportunities include the following:
Emergency & Important Numbers Billy Riordan Memorial Trust (www.billys-
malawiproject.org) Has an established clinic
Country code % 265 in Cape Maclear and provides medical care in
International access % 00 the area. The trust needs medical volunteers
code (doctors, dentists, nurses, lab technicians etc).
Ambulance % 998 Butterfly Space (p189) Involved in a number
Police % 997 of projects in Nkhata Bay, as is neighbouring
Fire % 999 Mayoka Village.
Cool Runnings (p195) Involved in a variety of
TIME projects in the Senga Bay area. M a l awi SGUe tRtViI VnAgLTGhUerI DeE& Away
Malawi follows Central Africa Time, which is two Panda Garden (p197) Based in Cape Maclear,
hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT/ Panda Garden is always on the lookout for di-
UTC). There is no daylight saving time. vers and others to help with bilharzia research
in the lake.
TOURIST INFORMATION Ripple Africa (www.rippleafrica.org) Recruits
There are tourist-information offices in Blantyre volunteer teachers, doctors, nurses and
and Lilongwe, but you’re much better off asking environmental workers for projects in the
for advice from your accommodation or a travel Chintheche district.
agency. Outside Malawi, tourism promotion is Wildlife Action Group (www.wag-malawi.org)
handled by UK-based Malawi Tourism (% in the Uses volunteers to assist in the management
UK 0115-972 7250; www.malawitourism.com), and maintenance of forest reserves near
which responds to enquiries from all over the Salima.
world.
88 Getting There & Away
VISAS
Most nationalities require a visa, which is issued AIR
(in most cases) upon arrival at the airport or There are no direct flights to Malawi from Europe
major land border. or the United States. The easiest way to reach
the country by air is via Kenya, Ethiopia or South
A one-month single-entry visa costs US$75, Africa.
six- and 12-month multiple-entry visas cost Lilongwe International Airport (Kamuzu Inter-
US$150 and US$250 respectively; a seven-day national Airport; LLW; % 0992 991097) A taxi
transit visa costs US$50. Card payments should or airport shuttle to/from town costs US$35.
be possible at the airports, but it would be wise It’s a standard charge, advertised on a board in
to have the fee handy in cash US dollars. You can the arrivals terminal, and taxi drivers meet in-
apply in advance through your local Malawian coming flights. You can also arrange a transfer
embassy, but it is more expensive (US$100 for a in advance through your accommodation.
single-entry visa). Chileka International Airport (Blantyre) A
taxi from the airport to the city costs around
Check the Malawian Department of Immigra- MK10,000, but agree on a price with the driver
tion website, www.immigration.gov.mw/visa. first. The price can be negotiated down if you’re
html, for more info. At the time of writing, the going from the city to the airport. Frequent
site advised travellers to apply in advance or, if local buses between the City Bus Station and
that was not possible, to obtain a letter of au- Chileka Township also pass the airport gate
thorisation. However, this directive was not be- (around MK2000).
ing enforced and was likely to be dropped. There
was also discussion of establishing an electronic Airports & Airlines
visa system, so it would be worth checking with Lilongwe International Airport 25km north
your accommodation for updates. of Lilongwe City Centre, handles the majority
of international flights, while Chileka Interna-
Once in Malawi, travellers with a one-month tional Airport, 15km north of central Blantyre,
single-entry visa can apply to extend it to three also receives numerous flights.
months total at the immigration offices in Lilong-
we, Blantyre and Zomba. This costs MK5000 The country’s national carrier relaunched as
per month cash. Temporary-residence permits, Malawian Airlines in 2012, when its previous
lasting up to six months and available in Lilong- incarnation, Air Malawi, went into liquidation
we and Blantyre, cost US$100. and the government partnered with Ethiopian
Airlines.
VOLUNTEERING
There are numerous volunteer opportunities
in Malawi. A good initial contact is Volunteer

M a l awi SGUe tRtViI VnAgLTGhUerI DeE& Away222 Regular buses run from Blantyre, via Mu-
Ethiopian Airlines (% 01-772031; www.ethio- lanje, to Muloza. From here, it’s 1km to the
pianairlines.com) Flies daily from Addis Ababa Mozambican border crossing, then another few
(Ethiopia) to both Lilongwe and Blantyre. kilometres into Milange. From Milange there’s
Kenya Airways (% 01-824524, 01-774227; usually a chapa (pickup or converted minibus)
www.kenya-airways.com) Links both Lilongwe or truck about every other day in the dry season
and Blantyre with Nairobi (Kenya) four days a to Mocuba, where you can find transport on to
week. Quelimane or Nampula.
Malawian Airlines Has a decent regional
network, with flights heading to Dar es Salaam Further north, minibuses and matolas run a
(Tasmania), Johannesburg (South Africa), few times per day between Mangochi and the
Lusaka (Zambia) and Harare (Zimbabwe) from border crossing at Chiponde. It’s then 7km to the
Blantyre and Lilongwe. Mozambican border crossing in Mandimba and
Proflight Zambia (% 01-700444; www.pro­ the best way to get there is by bicycle taxi. Man-
flight-zambia.com) Flies Lilongwe to Lusaka dimba has a couple of pensãos (pensions), and
(Zambia) six days a week. there’s at least one vehicle daily, usually a truck,
South African Airways (% 01-772242, 01- between here and Cuamba.
620617; www.flysaa.com) Flies three days
weekly between Blantyre and Johannesburg The third option is to go by minibus from
(South Africa), and six days weekly between Liwonde to the border at Nayuchi. From
Lilongwe and Johannesburg (with connections Nayuchi, where there are moneychangers, you
to Durban, Cape Town etc). can walk to Entre Lagos, and then get a chapa
to Cuamba.
LAND
Overland, travellers can enter the country from South Africa
Zambia, Mozambique or Tanzania. Indeed, Mala- A number of bus companies run services from
wi is a popular staging post for overland trucks Lilongwe and Blantyre to Johannesburg. The
heading between Nairobi and Cape Town. Most best option is Intercape (p181), which operates
border posts close from 6pm to 7am. daily services between Jo’burg and both Blan-
tyre and Lilongwe, with a service continuing
Bus north five days a week from the latter to Mzuzu.
It’s possible to cross into Malawi by bus from
Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa, Buses from Lilongwe leave from outside the
and there are direct services from Johannesburg petrol station on Paul Kagame Rd in Old Town.
(South Africa), Dar es Salaam (Tanzania), Lusa- In Blantyre, most Johannesburg-bound buses
ka (Zambia) and Harare (Zimbabwe) to Blantyre depart from the car park outside Blantyre
and Lilongwe. When crossing the border you will Lodge.
have to get off the bus to pass through customs
and pay for your visa. Tanzania
If you’re going in stages, Mbeya in southern Tan-
Mozambique zania is handy for crossing to/from northern Ma-
South lawi. Buses and minibuses ply the M1 between
Take a minibus to the Mozambican border Mzuzu and Karonga, from where you can get a
crossing at Zóbuè and then a minibus to Tete, minibus or taxi to the Songwe border crossing.
from where buses go to Beira and Maputo. You It’s 200m across the bridge to the Tanzanian
could also get a Blantyre–Harare bus to drop border crossing.
you at Tete.
Once on the Tanzanian side of the border, mini-
Central buses travel 115km north to Mbeya, where you
There are daily buses from Blantyre to the Mo- will need to overnight before continuing on the
zambican border at Marka; failing that, take a next morning to Dar es Salaam. You can change
bus to Nsanje and continue by minibus or matola money with the bicycle-taxi boys, but beware
(pickup). It’s a few kilometres between the bor- of scams.
der crossings – you can walk or take a bicycle
taxi – and you can change money on the Mozam- Zambia
bique side. From here pickups go to Mutarara Four direct Kob’s Coach Services (p182) buses
and over the bridge to Vila de Sena. per week link Lilongwe and Lusaka (MK20,000,
12 hours), departing from Devil St on Wednesday
North and Saturday mornings. Regular minibuses run
There are three border crossings from Malawi between Lilongwe and Mchinji. From here, it’s
into northern Mozambique: Muloza, from where 12km to the border. Local shared taxis shuttle
you can reach Mocuba in Mozambique, and between Mchinji and the border crossing.
Nayuchi and Chiponde, both of which lead to
Cuamba in Mozambique. From the Zambian side of the border, shared
taxis run to Chipata, about 25km northwest of
the crossing, from where you can reach Lusaka
or South Luangwa National Park.

223

SAMPLE FERRY ROUTES & FARES
Following are sample fares from Nkhata Bay.

DESTINATION OWNER’S STANDARD UPPER DECK 2ND ECONOMY
Nkhotakota CABIN CABIN MK12,490 MK7160 MK5120
Monkey Bay MK20,450 MK11,860 MK8120
MK25,770 MK19,850

MK44,800 MK34,440

LAKE 88 Getting Around M a l awi GS Ue tRtViI VnAgLAGrUoIuDnEd
Dhows sail in the morning from Mdamba on
Likoma Island (Malawi) to Cóbuè (Mozambique). AIR
If you’re planning to visit Mozambique you must Malawian Airlines (% 01-827900, 01-774605;
get a visa in advance and be sure to get your www.malawian-airlines.com) The national
passport stamped at Malawian immigration in carrier operates daily flights between Lilongwe
Mdimba. and Blantyre (US$50, one hour), a good
alternative to the bus. Its booking system isn’t
In the market by the cathedral in Cóbuè always reliable, so it’s worth confirming your
there’s an immigration office for your entry/ flight by phone or at an office.
exit formalities. Right beside the office are the Ulendo Airlink (% 01-794638; www.flyulendo.
boatmen. com) The aviation wing of Ulendo Travel Group
operates scheduled and charter flights on safe
Mozambique twin-prop planes to locations including Likoma
Operated by the Malawi Shipping Company Island and all the major wildlife parks. Check
(p169), the Chambo connects Metangula the ‘bid to fly’ section of Ulendo Airlink’s web-
(Mozambique) with Likoma Island, Chizumulu site for discounted seats on upcoming flights.
and Nkhata Bay. It leaves Metangula at 5am
on Wednesday, and reaches Likoma around BOAT
11.30am, Chizumulu around 12.30pm and Nkha- The Ilala ferry chugs passengers and cargo
ta Bay around 2pm. up and down Lake Malawi once a week in each
direction. Travelling between Monkey Bay in the
On the return journey, it leaves at 5am on south and Chilumba in the north, it makes nine
Thursday, stops in Chizumulu around 7.30am stops at lakeside villages and towns in between,
and Likoma around 9am, and departs Likoma as well as at Likoma and Chizumulu Islands.
around 2pm to reach Metangula around 8pm. Many travellers rate this journey (or a leg of it)
as a highlight of the country, although there are
There’s also a Saturday service just to/from occasionally nasty storms. If you’re unlucky, be
Likoma, leaving Metangula at 5am and arriving prepared for some pitching and rolling. The boat
on the island around 11.30am. It returns on dates from 1949 and is certainly no cruise liner,
Sunday at 1.30pm, arriving in Metangula around so it’s better to regard it as a practical method of
8pm. getting from A to B than an experience in itself.

The Chambo also heads south from Metangula When the Ilala stops at lakeside towns or villag-
to Chipoka via Makanjila and Senga Bay, leaving es, the water is too shallow for it to come close;
at 5am on Monday, passing Senga Bay around the lifeboat is used to ferry passengers ashore.
6.30pm and arriving in Chipoka around 9pm. It In both directions, the ferry docks at Nkhata
returns north at 5am on Tuesday, passing Senga Bay for seven hours and traders come aboard,
Bay around 7am and reaching Metangula around selling food, drinks and newspapers. The whole
8pm. trip, from one end of the line to the other, takes
about three days. You can normally download
Malawian and Mozambican immigration of- the latest schedules from Malawi Tourism.
ficers both board the Chambo to issue exit/entry
stamps and visas. You can check for timetable Classes & Reservations
changes at www.malawitourism.com. The classes are the exclusive Owner’s Cabin,
Standard Cabin, Upper Deck, Second and Econ-
Tanzania omy. The standard cabins were once luxurious,
The Tanzanian Songea (www.mscl.go.tz) sails and are still in reasonable condition. This class
south, at 1pm on Thursday, from Itungi via Liuli and the upper deck are popular with travellers,
and Mdamba Bay (all in Tanzania) to Nkhata Bay. due largely to the sociable bar. There are also
A 1st-class ticket from Mdamba Bay to Nkhata seats, a shaded area and mattresses for hire on
Bay costs around US$5. the upper deck. Second and Economy classes

M a l awi GS Ue tRtViI VnAgLAGrUoIuDnEd224 In rural areas, the frequency of buses and
are dark, crowded and permeated by engine minibuses drops dramatically – sometimes
fumes, and are not recommended. to nothing. In cases like this, the ‘bus’ is often
Cabin and Upper Deck class passengers can a truck or pickup, with people just piled in the
dine in the ferry’s restaurant, which serves beef back. In Malawi this is called a matola.
curry, peri-peri chicken and the like. Dishes such
as beans, rice and vegetables are served from a CAR & MOTORCYCLE
galley on the economy deck. The majority of main routes are sealed, though
Reservations are usually required for Cabin off the main routes roads are rutted and pot-
class, and are recommended to ensure a com- holed, making driving slow and dangero­ us.
fortable journey. Secondary roads are usually graded dirt. Some
are well maintained and easy to drive on in a
BUS normal car; others are bad, especially after rain,
Malawi’s best bus company is AXA Coach Ser- and slow even with a 4WD. Rural routes are not
vice (% 01-820100; www.axacoach.com), with so good, and after heavy rain are often impas­
three classes of vehicle: Super Executive, Execu- s­able. Several lodges along the lakeshore have
tive and Special. The former is a luxury nonstop poor access roads that need a 4WD. The same
service with air-con, toilet, comfortable reclining goes for the country’s national parks and wildlife
seats, USB ports, reading lights, good drivers, reserves.
snacks, fresh coffee and even an on-board mag-
azine. Services operate between Blantyre and TAXI
Lilongwe twice a day, leaving every morning and You can often share a taxi instead of waiting for
afternoon from special departure points in each the minibus to depart – a safer, more comforta-
city (not the main bus stations). ble and faster option.

The Executive and Special services are the Privately hiring a taxi will likely work out
next in line. These buses have air-con and re- cheaper than renting a car with a driver, plus
clining seats as well as TVs, but they don’t have removing driving stress and giving you an un-
toilets. They ply the route between Blantyre and official guide and interpreter. High Class Taxi
Karonga via Lilongwe and Mzuzu daily, serving Services (% 0888 100223, 0999 356920;
the main towns, with limited stops elsewhere. [email protected]) in Blantyre and
Mawaso Taxi Service (% 0999 161111, 0995
Other smaller bus companies, including the 769772; [email protected]) in Lilongwe both
National Bus Company, have daily services up offer multiday services.
and down the lake and between the country’s
main centres. These are marginally more com- TRAIN
fortable than minibuses, but no more efficient, Central Eastern African Railways (CEAR;
and they generally cost the same. % 01-840841; www.cear.mw) operates the
following services. The trains are slow and
Minibuses are the most popular option be- unreliable, so buses and minibuses are a better
cause they leave regularly throughout the day. option. The following journeys cost MK2100 in
They operate on a fill-up-and-go basis; you business class.
can speed up the process, and buy yourself Limbe–Balaka via Blantyre (11½ hours) De-
some comfort, by purchasing two seats. Direct parts 7am Wednesday, returns 6am Friday.
long-distance minibuses are becoming less Balaka–Nayuchi via Liwonde (six hours)
common; you will likely have to change once or Departs 6am Thursday, returns 1.30pm.
twice on a long-distance journey up the lake- Limbe–Makhanga (9¾ hours) Departs 9am
shore or M1. You can still buy a long-distance Saturday, returns 7am Sunday.
ticket – the driver should transfer your fare to
the connecting service – but it is wiser to only
pay as far as the place where you will change
minibuses.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Survival
Guide

HEALTH. . . . . . . . . . . 226

Before You Go. . . . . . . . . . . 226
In Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 232

Bemba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Chichewa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Lozi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Nyanja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Portuguese . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Tonga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

226 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Health

While the region has an im- Recommended ¨¨Anti-inflammatory drugs
pressive selection of tropical Vaccinations (eg ibuprofen)
diseases, it’s more likely ¨¨Antihistamines (for hay
you’ll get a bout of diarrhoea The World Health Organiza- fever and allergic reactions)
or a cold than a more exotic tion (www.who.int/en/) rec- ¨¨Antimalaria pills
malady. Stay up to date with ommends that all travellers ¨¨Steroid cream, such as
your vaccinations and take be covered for diphtheria, hydrocortisone (for allergic
basic preventive measures, tetanus, pertussis, measles, rashes)
and you’ll be unlikely to suc- mumps, rubella and polio, as ¨¨Bandages, gauze, gauze
cumb to any of the serious well as for hepatitis B, re- rolls
health hazards. gardless of their destination. ¨¨Adhesive or paper tape
¨¨Scissors, safety pins,
Before You Go According to the US tweezers
Centers for Disease Control ¨¨Thermometer
Insurance & Prevention (www.cdc.gov), ¨¨Pocket knife
the following additional vac- ¨¨Insect repellent containing
Find out in advance whether cinations are recommended DEET for the skin
your insurance plan will make for the region: hepatitis A, ra- ¨¨Insect spray containing
payments directly to provid- bies and typhoid, and boost- Permethrin for clothing,
ers or will reimburse you later ers for tetanus, diphtheria tents and bed nets
for overseas health expendi- and measles. A yellow-f­ ever- ¨¨Sunblock
tures. Most doctors and vaccination certificate is not ¨¨Oral rehydration salts
clinics in the region expect officially required to enter ¨¨Iodine tablets (for water
up-front payment in cash. any of the three countries purification)
unless you are entering from ¨¨Sterile needles, syringes
It’s vital to ensure that an infected area (which are and fluids if travelling to
your travel insurance will cov- found in several neighbour- remote areas
er any emergency transport ing countries), but carrying ¨¨Self-diagnostic kit that
required to get you at least one is advised; the certificate can identify malaria in the
to Johannesburg (South is often requested. blood from a finger prick, and
Africa), or all the way home, emergency treatment
by air and with a medical Medical Checklist
attendant if necessary. Other Preparations
Carry a medical and first-aid
If your policy requires you kit to help yourself in the ¨¨Get a check-up from your
to pay first and claim later for case of minor illness or inju- dentist and also your doctor
medical treatment, be sure to ry. Possible items to include: if you have any regular
keep all documentation. Some ¨¨Antibiotics (prescription medication or chronic illness,
policies ask you to call back only), eg ciprofloxacin such as high blood pressure
(reverse charges) to a centre (Ciproxin) or norfloxacin or asthma.
in your home country where (Utinor) ¨¨Organise spare contact
an immediate assessment of ¨¨Antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg lenses and glasses (and take
your problem is made. Since loperamide)
reverse-charge calls aren’t ¨¨Acetaminophen
possible in many parts of the (paracetamol) or aspirin
region, contact the insurance ¨¨Antibacterial ointment
company before setting off to (eg Bactroban) for cuts and
confirm how best to contact it abrasions (prescription only)
in an emergency.

227

your optical prescription Further Reading Always check the expiry Health In Africa
with you). date before buying medica-
¨¨Get a first-aid and medical ¨¨Wilderness and Travel tions, especially in smaller
kit together and arrange Medicine by Eric A Weiss towns.
necessary vaccinations. (2012)
¨¨Consider registering with ¨¨How to Shit Around the There is a high risk of
the International Association World: The Art of Staying contracting HIV from infect-
for Medical Advice to Clean & Healthy While ed blood transfusions. The
Travellers (www.iamat.org), Travelling by Jane Wilson- BloodCare Foundation (www.
which provides directories of Howarth (2006) bloodcare.org.uk) is a useful
certified doctors. ¨¨Healthy Travel: Africa by source of safe, screened
¨¨If you’ll be spending Isabelle Young and Tony blood, which can be trans-
much time in remote areas Gherardin (2008) ported to any part of the
(ie anywhere away from ¨¨How to Stay Healthy world within 24 hours.
capitals and major cities or Abroad by Richard Dawood
tourist centres), consider (2002) Infectious Diseases
doing a first-aid course ¨¨Travel with Children by
(contact the Red Cross Sophie Caupeil et al (2015) Following are some of the
or St John Ambulance) or diseases that are found in the
attending a remote-medicine In Africa region, although with a few
first-aid course, such as basic preventive measures,
that offered by the Royal Availability & Cost of it’s unlikely that you’ll suc-
Geographical Society (www. Health Care cumb to any of these.
wildernessmedicaltraining.
co.uk). Capital cities are generally CHOLERA
¨¨Carry medications in their the only places with good Cholera is usually only a
original (labelled) containers. emergency medical services. problem during natural or
A signed and dated letter For Western standards, ex- artificial disasters (eg war,
from your physician pect to pay Western prices. floods or earthquakes),
describing all medical although small outbreaks
conditions and medications, If you become seriously ill, can possibly occur at other
including generic names, is seek treatment in the capital times. Travellers are rarely
also a good idea. city or in South Africa, or affected. Cholera is caused
¨¨If carrying syringes return home. If you fall ill in by bacteria and spread via
or needles, be sure to an unfamiliar area, ask staff contaminated drinking water.
have a physician’s letter at a top-end hotel or resident The main symptom is pro-
documenting their medical expatriates where the best fuse watery diarrhoea, which
necessity. nearby medical facilities are. causes debilitation if fluids
In an emergency contact are not replaced quickly.
Websites your embassy. An oral cholera vaccine is
available in the USA, but it
General information: Well-stocked pharmacies is not particularly effective.
Fit for Travel (www.fitfortravel. are found in capital cities and Most cases of cholera can be
scot.nhs.uk) some major towns. These will avoided by careful selection
invariably carry medications of good drinking water and
International Travel and Health to treat malaria and other by avoiding potentially con-
(www.who.int/ith) A free, online basics, though it’s best to taminated food. Treatment is
publication of the World Health bring whatever you think you by fluid replacement (orally
Organization. may need from home. or via a drip), but sometimes
Lonely Planet (www.lonely antibiotics are needed.
planet.com) Self-treatment is not advised.
MD Travel Health (www.mdtrav
elhealth.com) TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
Government travel-health
websites: Reliable statistics are difficult to find concerning the
Australia www.smartraveller. number of Southern Africans who rely on traditional
gov.au medicine. However, especially when travelling in rural
Canada www.phac-aspc.gc.ca areas, you may well hear about or meet traditional heal-
UK http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/ ers. While most traditional medicine is inconsistent and
TravelHealth/Pages/Travel unregulated, there is a vast and impressive store of local
healthhome.aspx knowledge regarding medicinal uses of plants, and it is
USA www.cdc.gov/travel always worth asking if you could meet the local healer or
be given an introduction to local plants and traditional
medicinal practices.

Health In Africa228 for 10 years. Hepatitis A and essary; a three-month gap
DENGUE FEVER typhoid vaccines can also be after exposure and before
(BREAKBONE FEVER) given as a single-dose vac- testing is required to allow
Dengue fever is spread cine (hepatyrix or viatim). antibodies to appear in the
through the bite of the mos- blood.
quito. It causes a feverish HEPATITIS B
illness with headache and Hepatitis B is spread through MALARIA
muscle pains similar to those infected blood, contami- Malaria is prevalent in all
experienced with a bad, nated needles and sexual three countries, and is espe-
prolonged attack of influen- intercourse. It can also be cially a risk in Mozambique.
za. There might be a rash. spread from an infected Infection rates are higher
Self-treatment: paracetamol mother to the baby during during the rainy season, but
and rest. childbirth. It affects the liver, the risk exists year-round
causing jaundice and occa- and it is extremely important
DIPHTHERIA sionally liver failure. Most to take preventive measures,
Diphtheria is spread through people recover completely, even if you will just be travel-
close respiratory contact. It but some people might be ling for a short time.
usually causes an elevated chronic carriers of the virus,
temperature and a severe which could lead eventually Malaria is caused by a
sore throat. Sometimes a to cirrhosis or liver cancer. parasite in the bloodstream
membrane forms across the Those visiting high-risk areas spread via the bite of the
throat, resulting in the need for long periods or those female Anopheles mosquito.
for a tracheostomy to pre- with increased social or There are several types of
vent suffocation. Vaccination occupational risk should be malaria, falciparum malaria
is recommended for those immunised. Many countries being the most dangerous
likely to be in close contact now routinely give hepatitis B and the predominant form in
with the local population in as part of childhood vaccina- parts of the region. Infection
infected areas. This more tions. It is given singly or can rates vary with season and
important for long stays than be given at the same time as climate, so check out the
for short-term trips. hepatitis A (hepatyrix). situation before departure.
Unlike most other diseases
FILARIASIS A course will give protec- regularly encountered by
Tiny worms migrating in the tion for at least five years. It travellers, there is not yet a
lymphatic system cause can be given over four weeks vaccine for malaria. However,
filariasis. The bite from an in- or six months. several drugs are used to pre-
fected mosquito spreads the vent malaria and new ones
infection. Symptoms include HIV & AIDS are in the pipeline. Up-to-date
localised itching and swelling Human immuno-deficiency advice from a travel-health
of the legs and/or genitalia. virus (HIV), the virus that clinic is essential, as some
Treatment is available. causes acquired immune medication is more suitable
deficiency syndrome (AIDS), for some travellers than
HEPATITIS A is a significant problem in the others. The pattern of drug-
Hepatitis A is spread region. The virus is spread resistant malaria is changing
through contaminated food through infected blood and rapidly, so what was advised
(particularly shellfish) and blood products, by sexual several years ago might no
water. It causes jaundice and, intercourse with an infected longer be the case.
although it is rarely fatal, it partner and from an infected
can cause prolonged lethar- mother to her baby during Malaria can present in
gy and delayed recovery. If childbirth and breastfeeding. several ways. The early stag-
you’ve had hepatitis A, you It can be spread through es include headaches, fevers,
shouldn’t drink alcohol for up ‘blood to blood’ contacts, generalised aches and pains,
to six months afterwards, but such as with contaminated and malaise, which could be
once you’ve recovered, there instruments during medical, mistaken for flu. Other symp-
won’t be any long-term prob- dental, acupuncture and oth- toms can include abdominal
lems. The first symptoms er body-piercing procedures, pain, diarrhoea and a cough.
include dark urine and a and through sharing intra- Anyone who develops a fever
yellow colour to the whites of venous needles. At present in a malarial area should as-
the eyes. Sometimes a fever there is no cure; medication sume malarial infection until
and abdominal pain might be that might keep the disease a blood test proves negative,
present. Hepatitis A vaccine under control is available, even if you have been taking
(Avaxim, VAQTA, Havrix) is but these drugs are often antimalarial medication. If
given as an injection: a single unavailable for most locals not treated, the next stage
dose will give protection for and not readily available for could develop within 24
up to a year, and a booster travellers, either. If you think hours, particularly if falcipar-
after a year gives protection you might have been infected um malaria is the parasite:
with HIV, a blood test is nec- jaundice, then reduced con-
sciousness and coma (also

229

known as cerebral malaria), in miscarriage or premature mediate medical treatment is Health In Africa
followed by death. Treatment labour. Adults who have necessary.
in hospital is essential; the survived childhood malaria
death rate might still be as have developed immunity The ACWY vaccine is rec-
high as 10% even in the best and usually only develop ommended for all travellers
intensive-care facilities. mild cases of malaria; most in sub-Saharan Africa. This
Prevention & Treatment Western travellers have no vaccine is different from the
Many travellers are under the immunity at all. Immunity meningococcal meningitis C
impression that malaria is a wanes after 18 months of vaccine given to children and
mild illness, that treatment is non-e­ xposure, so even if adolescents in some coun-
always easy and successful, you have had malaria in tries; it is safe to be given
and that taking antimalarial the past and used to live in both types of vaccine.
drugs causes more illness a ­malaria-prone area, you
through side effects than might no longer be immune. POLIOMYELITIS
actually getting malaria. This Polio is generally spread
is unfortunately not true. If you will be away from through contaminated food
Side effects of the medi- major towns, it’s worth con- and water. It is one of the vac-
cation depend on the drug sidering taking standby treat- cines given in childhood and
being taken. Doxycycline can ment, although this should should be boosted every 10
cause heartburn and indi- be seen as emergency treat- years, either orally (a drop on
gestion; mefloquine (Larium) ment only and not as routine the tongue) or as an injection.
can cause anxiety attacks, self-medication. It should be Polio can be carried asymp-
insomnia and nightmares, used only if you will be far tomatically (ie showing no
and (rarely) severe psychi- from medical facilities and symptoms) and could cause
atric disorders; chloroquine have been advised about the a transient fever. In rare cases
can cause nausea and hair symptoms of malaria and it causes weakness or paral-
loss; proguanil can cause how to use the medication. ysis of one or more muscles,
mouth ulcers; and Malarone If you do resort to emergen- which might be permanent.
is expensive. The side effects cy self-treatment, medical
are not universal and can be advice should be sought as RABIES
minimised by taking medica- soon as possible to confirm Rabies is spread through
tion correctly (eg with food). whether the treatment has the bite or lick of an infected
Also, some people should not been successful. In particular animal on broken skin. It is
take a particular antimalarial you want to avoid contract- always fatal once the clinical
drug (eg people with epilepsy ing cerebral malaria, which symptoms start (which might
should avoid mefloquine, and can be fatal in 24 hours. be up to several months after
doxycycline should not be Self-diagnostic kits, which an infected bite), so post-bite
taken by pregnant women or can identify malaria in the vaccination should be given
children younger than 12). blood from a finger prick, are as soon as possible. Post-bite
available in the West and are vaccination (whether or not
If you decide that you a worthwhile investment. you’ve been vaccinated before
really do not wish to take the bite) prevents the virus
antimalarial drugs, you must The risks from malaria from spreading to the central
understand the risks and be to both mother and foetus nervous system. Animal han-
obsessive about avoiding during pregnancy are consid- dlers should be vaccinated,
mosquito bites. Use nets and erable. Unless good medical as should those travelling to
insect repellent, and report care can be guaranteed, remote areas where a reliable
any fever or flu-like symp- travel in malarial areas while source of post-bite vaccine is
toms to a doctor as soon pregnant should be discour- not available within 24 hours.
as possible. Some ­people aged unless essential. Three preventive injections
advocate homeopathic are needed over a month. If
preparations against malaria, MENINGOCOCCAL you are infected and have not
such as Demal200, but as MENINGITIS been vaccinated, you will need
yet there is no conclusive Meningococcal infection is a course of five injections
evidence that this is effective spread through close respira- starting 24 hours, or as soon
and many homeopaths do tory contact and is more likely as possible, after the injury.
not recommend their use. in crowded situations, such If you have been vaccinated,
as dormitories, buses and you will need fewer post-bite
People of all ages can con- clubs. Infection is uncommon injections and will have more
tract malaria and falciparum in travellers. Vaccination is time to seek medical help.
causes the most severe recommended for long stays
illness. Repeated infections and is especially important SCHISTOSOMIASIS
might result eventually in towards the end of the dry
less serious illness. Malaria in season. Symptoms include a (BILHARZIA)
pregnancy frequently results fever, severe headache, neck This disease is spread by
stiffness and a red rash. Im- flukes (minute worms) that

Health In Africa230 products. BCG vaccination Yellow fever is spread by
are carried by a species of is recommended for those infected mosquitoes. Symp-
freshwater snail. The flukes likely to be mixing closely toms range from a flu-like
are carried inside the snail, with the local population, illness to severe hepatitis
which then sheds them into although it gives only mod- (liver inflammation), jaundice
slow-moving or still water. erate protection against TB. and death. The yellow-fever
The parasites penetrate hu- It is more important for long vaccination must be given
man skin during paddling or stays than for short-term at a designated clinic and
swimming and then migrate stays. Inoculation with the is now considered to be
to the bladder or bowel. They BCG vaccine is not available valid for life. However, many
are passed out via stool or in all countries. It is given countries still adhere to the
urine and could contaminate routinely to many children previous validity period of
fresh water, where the cycle in developing countries. The 10 years, so if your vacci-
starts again. vaccination causes a small nation is older than this,
Paddling or swimming in permanent scar at the site it’s worth checking with the
suspect freshwater lakes of injection, and is usually relevant embassy or at least
(including many parts of given in a specialist chest travelling with a copy of the
Lake Malawi) or slow-running clinic. It is a live vaccine updated regulations from the
rivers should be avoided. and should not be given to World Health Organization
Although parts of Lake Ma- pregnant women or immuno-­ (see www.who.int/ith/up
lawi might be low risk, other compromised individuals. dates/20160727/en/). Note
areas (including some popu- that yellow fever is a live vac-
lar tourist destinations) bring TB can be asymptomatic, cine and must not be given
a risk of contracting bilharzia. only being picked up on a to immuno-compromised or
In some cases there may routine chest X-ray. Alterna- pregnant travellers.
be no symptoms; in others tively, it can cause a cough,
there may be a transient fever weight loss or fever, some- Traveller’s Diarrhoea
and rash. Advanced cases times months or even years
might have blood in the stool after exposure. Although it’s not inevitable
or urine. Long-term effects that you will get diarrhoea
can be very harmful; it is es- TYPHOID while travelling in the region,
sential that you have a check- Typhoid is spread through it’s certainly likely. Diar-
up for the disease when you food or water contaminated rhoea is the most common
get home or reach a place by infected human faeces. ­travel-related illness and
with good medical services. The first symptom is usually sometimes can be triggered
Be sure your doctor is a fever or a pink rash on the by simple dietary changes.
familiar with bilharzia, and be abdomen. Sometimes sep-
aware that the disease may ticaemia (blood poisoning) To help prevent diarrhoea,
have a long incubation pe- can occur. A typhoid vaccine avoid tap water, only eat
riod and may not be initially (typhim Vi, typherix) will give fresh fruit and vegetables
apparent, so you might need protection for three years. In if cooked or peeled, and be
more than one test. A blood some countries, the oral vac- wary of dairy products that
test can detect antibodies cine Vivotif is also available. might contain unpasteur-
if you have been exposed Antibiotics are usually given ised milk. The small plastic
and treatment is then pos- as treatment and death is rare bags of water sold on street
sible in specialist travel or unless septicaemia occurs. corners are best avoided.
infectious-disease clinics. Take care with fruit juice,
If not treated the infection YELLOW FEVER particularly if water may have
can cause kidney failure or Zambia, Mozambique been added. Milk in many
permanent bowel damage. and Malawi all require you smaller restaurants is made
It is not possible for you to to carry a certificate of from reconstituted milk pow-
directly infect others. ­yellow-fever vaccination only der, which is safe if it’s been
if you are arriving from an made with boiled or mineral
TRYPANOSOMIASIS infected area (a requirement water.
(SLEEPING SICKNESS) that is vigilantly enforced).
Spread via the bite of the However, a certificate is still With freshly cooked food,
tsetse fly. It causes a head- often requested at points of plates or serving utensils
ache, fever and eventually entry, including for travellers might be dirty, so be selec-
coma. There is an effective coming from Tanzania into tive when eating food from
treatment. Mozambique and those go- street vendors and make
ing from Zambia into South sure that cooked food is pip-
TUBERCULOSIS (TB) Africa, and vaccination is ing hot all the way through.
Tuberculosis is spread recommended for almost all
through close respiratory visitors by the Centers for If you develop diarrhoea,
contact and occasionally Disease Control & Prevention drink plenty of fluids, pref-
through infected milk or milk (www.cdc.gov). erably an oral rehydration
solution containing water
(lots), and some salt and
sugar. A few loose stools

231

don’t require treatment, but TAP WATER Health In Africa
if you start having more than
four or five stools a day, start Don’t drink tap water unless it has been boiled, filtered
taking an antibiotic (usually a or chemically disinfected (such as with iodine tablets).
quinoline drug, such as cip- Don’t drink from streams, rivers and lakes. It’s also best
rofloxacin or norfloxacin) and to avoid drinking from pumps and wells; some bring
an ­anti-diarrhoeal agent (such pure water to the surface, but the presence of animals
as loperamide) if you are not can contaminate supplies. Bottled water is widely availa-
within easy reach of a toilet. If ble, except in very remote areas, where you should carry
diarrhoea is bloody, persists a filter or purification tablets.
for more than 72 hours or is
accompanied by fever, shak- ment with water and/or fruit but they can carry a rare skin
ing chills or severe abdominal juice, and cooling by cold disorder called cutaneous
pain, seek medical attention. water and fans. The treatment leishmaniasis. Prevention of
of the salt-loss component bites with DEET-based repel-
AMOEBIC DYSENTERY consists of consuming salty lents is sensible.
Contracted by eating con- fluids, as in soup, and adding
taminated food and water, a little more table salt to foods Bedbugs are often found
amoebic dysentery causes than usual. in hostels and cheap hotels.
blood and mucus in the They lead to very itchy,
faeces. It can be relatively HEATSTROKE lumpy bites. Spraying the
mild and tends to come on Heat exhaustion is a precur- mattress with crawling-insect
gradually, but seek medical sor to the much more serious killer after changing bedding
advice if you think you have condition of heatstroke. In this will get rid of them.
the illness as it won’t clear up case there is damage to the
without treatment (which is sweating mechanism, with an Scabies is also frequently
with specific antibiotics). excessive rise in body temper- found in cheap accommoda-
ature; irrational and hyperac- tion. These tiny mites live in
GIARDIASIS tive behaviour; and eventually the skin, particularly between
This, like amoebic dysentery, loss of consciousness, then the fingers. They cause an in-
is also caused by ingesting death. Rapid cooling by spray- tensely itchy rash. The itch is
contaminated food or water. ing the body with water and easily treated with malathion
The illness usually appears a fanning is ideal. Emergency and permethrin lotion from
week or more after you have fluid and electrolyte replace- a pharmacy; other members
been exposed to the offend- ment is usually also required of the household also need
ing parasite. Giardiasis might by intravenous drip. treating to avoid spreading
cause only a short-lived bout scabies, even if they do not
of typical travellers’ diar- show any symptoms.
rhoea, but it can also cause
persistent diarrhoea. Ideally, INSECT BITES & STINGS SNAKE & SCORPION BITES
seek medical advice if you Mosquitoes might not always Don’t walk barefoot, or
suspect you have giardiasis, carry malaria or dengue fever, stick your hand into holes
but if you are in a remote but they (and other insects) or cracks. However, 50% of
area you could start a course can cause irritation and in- people bitten by venomous
of antibiotics. fected bites. To avoid these, snakes are not actually
take the same precautions as injected with poison (enven-
Environmental you would for avoiding ma- omed). If bitten by a snake,
Hazards laria. Use DEET-based insect don’t panic. Immobilise the
repellents. Excellent clothing bitten limb with a splint (such
HEAT EXHAUSTION treatments are also available; as a stick) and apply a band-
This condition occurs follow- mosquitoes that land on age over the site, with firm
ing heavy sweating and exces- treated clothing will die. pressure (similar to bandag-
sive fluid loss with inadequate ing a sprain). Do not apply
replacement of fluids and salt, Bee and wasp stings cause a tourniquet, or cut or suck
and is particularly common real problems only to those the bite. Get medical help as
in hot climates when taking who have a severe allergy to soon as possible so antivenin
unaccustomed exercise the stings (anaphylaxis). If can be given if needed.
before full acclimatisation. you are one of these people,
Symptoms include headache, carry an ‘epipen’ (an adrena- Scorpions are frequently
dizziness and tiredness. Dehy- line (epinephrine) injection), found in arid areas. They can
dration is already happening which you can give yourself. cause a painful bite that is
by the time you feel thirsty; This could save your life. sometimes life-threatening. If
aim to drink sufficient water bitten, take a painkiller. Seek
to produce pale, diluted urine. Sandflies are found in medical treatment if collapse
Self-treatment: fluid replace- some areas. They usually occurs.
only cause a nasty, itchy bite,

2 32 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Language

English is the official language in Malawi and chapter the abbreviations ‘inf’ for informal and
is widely spoken. Chichewa, one of the many ‘pol’ for polite are included where required.
languages in Malawi, is used throughout the
country as a lingua franca. BEMBA

Portuguese is the official language of Mo- Bemba is spoken widely in Lusaka and in the
zambique. It is widely spoken in larger towns, Copperbelt, Luapula, Central and Northern
less so in rural areas. Mozambique’s numer- Provinces of Zambia. When addressing el-
ous African languages, all of which belong to ders, add bashikulu (grandfather) for a man
the Bantu family, can be divided into three and bamama (grandmother) for a woman.
groups: Makhuwa-Lomwe languages, spoken You can generally get by using English num-
by more than 33% of the population, primar- bers for prices and times.
ily in the north; Sena-Nyanja languages in
the centre and near Lake Niassa; and Tsonga Basics
languages in the south. The exact number of
languages spoken in Mozambique has not Hello. Muli shani.
been established, but it is estimated that
there are at least nine, and perhaps as many Greetings! Uli shani? (inf)
as 16. Outside southern resorts and the Mwapolenipo mukwai! (pol)
areas bordering Zimbabwe and Malawi, Eng-
lish is not widely spoken. In northern Cabo Goodbye. Shalapo. (inf)
Delgado and Niassa provinces near the Tan- Shalenipo mukwai. (pol)
zanian border, Swahili is frequently heard and
may be more useful than Portuguese. Good morning. Wabuka shani? (inf)
Mwashibukeni?/
In Zambia, English is the official language Mwabuka shani? (pol)
and is widely spoken. Of the scores of local
languages spoken in Zambia, the main four are Good evening. Icungulupo/
covered in this chapter: Bemba, Lozi, Nyanja Mwatushenipo mukwai.
and Tonga. Zambians place much emphasis on
the relationship between speakers and it’s very Good night. Icungulopo.
important to use the correct forms of address,
particularly with the Lozi. There are often two Please. Mukwai.
different ways to say ‘you’ and to greet people,
depending on their social status. The informal Thank you./ Natasha./Natotela./
mode is used for children, friends and peers. Excuse me. Banjeleleko.
The polite mode is used for strangers, elders
and adults of equal or higher status. In this Yes. Ee (mukwai).

WANT MORE? No. Awe./Teifyo.

For in-depth language information How are you? Uli shani? (inf)/
and handy phrases, check out Lonely Muli shani? (pol)
Planet’s Africa Phrasebook. You’ll find it
at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can I’m fine. Ndifye bwino.
buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks
at the Apple App Store. Good./Fine./OK. Chawama./Chilifye./
Chisuma./Chilifye bwino.

I don’t understand. Nshumfwile bwino.

What’s your name? Niwe nani ishina? (inf)
Nimwe banani ishina? (pol)

My name is … Ishina lyandi ni ne …

233

How much? Shinga?/Nishinga? Goodbye. Tsala bwino. (if leaving)
toilets ifimbusu Pitani bwino. (if staying)
men baume
women banakashi Good night. Gonani bwino.
today lelo
tomorrow mailo Please. Chonde.
tomorrow (early) mailo ulucelo
yesterday mailo yafumineko Thank you. Zikomo.

Excuse me. Zikomo. Language Chichewa

Yes./No. Inde./Iyayi.

How are you? Muli bwanji?

I’m fine. Ndili bwino.

Eating & Drinking Good./Fine./OK. Chabwino.

What’s your name? Dzina lako ndani?

Please bring me … Ndetele niko … I don’t understand. Sindikunva.

bananas nkonde How much? Ntengo bwanji?

beans cilemba I want … Ndifuna …

beer bwalwa I don’t want … Sindifuna …

bread umukate to buy kugula

cassava kalundwe to sleep kugona

chicken inkoko men akuma

coffee kofi women akazi

eggs amani today lero

fish isabi tomorrow mara

fruit icisabo/ifisabo (sg/pl) tomorrow (early) m’mara

meat inama yesterday dzulo

milk umukaka

mushrooms ubowa Eating & Drinking

oranges amachungwa Please bring me … Mundi passe …

peanuts mbalala to eat kudya

potatoes ifyumbu bread buledi

tea chai chicken nkhuku

vegetables umusalu coffee khofi

(drinking) water amenshi (yakunwa) eggs mazira

CHICHEWA fish somba

Keep in mind when using this list that you fruit chipasso/zipasso (sg/pl)
may not be speaking ‘proper’ Chichewa.
Importantly, though, you’ll be understood, lake perch chambo
and locals in Malawi will be pleased to hear a
visitor using their language. meat nyama

milk mkaka

potatoes batata

tea ti

Basics vegetables mquani

Mazungu means ‘white person’, but is not water mazi
a derogatory term. Bambo literally means
‘father’ but is a polite way to address any LOZI
Malawian man. The female equivalent is Amai
or Mai. Chichewa speakers talking together Lozi is spoken mainly in Zambia’s Western
will normally use English for numbers, prices Province. If greeting royalty or aristocrats,
and expressing time. use Ba lumele Malozi, sha. English numbers
are usually used to express time.
Hello. Moni.

234

Numbers – Lozi il’ingw’i Eating & Drinking
1 z’e peli or bubeli Use Ndate (sir) or Ma (madam) to denote
2 z’e t’alu or bulalu ‘please’.
3 z’e ne or bune
4 z’e keta-lizoho Please bring me … Ndate/Ma, ha mu ni fe …
5
Language Nyanja banana likonde/makonde (sg/pl)

beans manawa

beef nama ya komu

beer bucwala/mutoho (sg/pl)

Basics bread sinkwa

Hello. Eeni, sha. (general) chicken kuhu
Lumela. (inf)
Mu lumeleng’ sha. (pol) coffee kofi

Goodbye. Siala (foo/hande/ egg lii/mai (sg/pl)
sinde). (inf)
Musiale (foo/hande/ fish tapi
sinde). (pol)
food licho/sicho

Good morning. U zuhile. (inf) freshwater bream papati
Mu zuhile. (pol)
fruit tolwana/litolwana (sg/pl)

Good afternoon/ Ki manzibuana./ gravy mulo
evening. U tozi. (inf)
Mu tozi. (pol) meat nama

Good night. Ki busihu. milk mabisi
Please. Sha.
N’itumezi (hahulu). mushrooms mbowa

T (hvaenrky you Ni swalele. (inf) peanuts/cashews ndongo
much). Mu ni swalele. (pol)
pork nama ya kulube

E xc use me. potatoes makwili

rice raisi

Yes. Ee. (inf) salt lizwai
Eeni. (pol)
sweet munati
No. Awa. (inf)
Batili. (pol) tea tii

How are you? U cwang’?/W’a pila?/ vegetable miloho/muloho (sg/pl)
W’a zuha? (inf)
Mu cwang’?/Mw’a pila?/ (drinking) water mezi (a kunwa)
Mw’a zuha? (pol)
NYANJA
I’m fine. N’i teng’./N’a pila./
N’a zuha. Nyanja is widely spoken in Lusaka and in the
Central and Eastern Provinces of Zambia. You
Good./Fine. Ki hande. can generally get by using English numbers
for prices and times.
OK. Ku lukile.

I don’t understand. Ha ni utwi.

W h at’s your name? Libizo la hao ki wena Basics
mang’? (inf)
Libizo la mina ki mina
bo mang’? (pol) Hello. Bwanji.

My name is … K’i na … Good morning. Mwauka bwanji.
How much? Ki bukai?
Good afternoon. Mwachoma bwanji.
toilets bimbuzi/limbuzi
Good night. Gonani bwino.
men banna
Goodbye. Pitani bwino/salani bwino.
women basali
Thank you./ Zikomo.
today kachenu Excuse me.

tomorrow kamuso Thank you very much. Zikomo kwambiri.

tomorrow (early) kamuso kakusasasa/ Yes./No. Inde./Iyai.
ka mamiso
How are you? Uli bwanji? (inf)
yesterday mabani Muli bwanji? (pol)

235

I’m fine. Ndili bwino.

Good./Fine./OK. Chabwino. Basics

I don’t understand. Sindimvera. Hello. Olá. o·laa

What’s your name? Dzina ianu ndani? Goodbye. Adeus. a·de·oosh

My name is … Dzina ianga ndine … How are you? Como está? ko·moo shtaa

How much? Ndizingati? Fine, and you? Bem, e você? beng e vo·se Language Portuguese

toilets chimbuzi Excuse me. Faz favor. faash fa·vor

men amuna Sorry. Desculpe. desh·kool·pe

women akazi Yes./No. Sim./Não. seeng/nowng

today lelo Please. Por favor. poor fa·vor

tomorrow mawa Thank you. Obrigado. o·bree·gaa·doo (m)
Obrigada. o·bree·gaa·da (f)
tomorrow (early) m’mawa
You’re welcome. De nada. de naa·da
yesterday dzulo

Eating & Drinking What’s your name?
Qual é o seu nome? kwaal e oo se·oo no·me

Please bring me … Ndifuna kukhala ndi … My name is … oo me·oo no·me e …
O meu nome é …
beans kaela
Do you speak English?
beef nyama ya ng’ombe Fala inglês? faa·la eeng·glesh

beer mowa I don’t understand.

bread buledi Não entendo. nowng eng·teng·doo

chicken nkuku

coffee khofi Directions

eggs ma egesi

fish nsomba Where’s (the station)?
Onde é (a estação)? ong·de e (a shta·sowng)
fruit cipatso/zipatso (sg/pl)
What’s the address?
meat nyama Qual é o endereço? kwaal e oo eng·de·re·soo

milk mukaka Could you please write it down?

pork nyama ya nkumba Podia escrever poo·dee·a shkre·ver
isso, por favor? ee·soo poor fa·vor
potatoes mapotato

sweet potato kandolo Can you show me (on the map)?
Pode-me mostrar po·de·me moosh·traar
tea tiyi (no mapa)? (noo maa·pa)

vegetables mbeu zaziwisi

(drinking) water mandzi (yo kumwa) Eating & Drinking

PORTUGUESE What would you recommend?
O que é que oo ke e ke
Most sounds in Portuguese are also found in recomenda? rre·koo·meng·da
English. The exceptions are the nasal vowels
(represented in our pronunciation guides by I don’t eat … e·oo nowng ko·moo …
ng after the vowel), which are pronounced Eu não como …
‘through the nose’; and the strongly rolled
r (rr in our pronunciation guides). Also note I’d like (the menu).
that the symbol zh sounds like the ‘s’ in Queria (um menu). ke·ree·a (oong me·noo)
‘pleasure’. The stressed syllables are indicat-
ed with italics. Masculine and feminine forms Cheers! sa·oo·de
of nouns and adjectives are provided in the Saúde!
following phrases where necessary, indicated
with ‘m’ and ‘f’ respectively. That was delicious.
Isto estava eesh·too shtaa·va
delicioso. de·lee·see·o·zoo

Please bring the bill. po·de·me tra·zer
Pode-me trazer a kong·ta
a conta.

236

Emergencies 8 oito oy·too
9 nove no·ve
Help! Socorro! soo·ko·rroo 10 dez desh
vaa·se 20 vinte veeng·te
Go away! Vá-se embora! 30 trinta treeng·ta
eng·bo·ra 40 quarenta kwa·reng·ta
50 cinquenta seeng·kweng·ta
Language Tonga Call …! Chame …! shaa·me … 60 sessenta se·seng·ta
oong 70 setenta se·teng·ta
a doctor um médico me·dee·koo 80 oitenta oy·teng·ta
a poo·lee·sya 90 noventa no·veng·ta
100 cem seng
the police a polícia 1000 mil meel

I’m lost. shtoh per·dee·doo (m) Transport baar·koo
Estou perdido. shtoh per·dee·da (f) barco ow·to·kaa·roo
Estou perdida. shtoh doo·eng·te boat a·vee·owng
I’m ill. ong·de e a kaa·za de kong·boy·oo
Estou doente. ba·nyoo bus autocarro
Where is the toilet? oong bee·lye·te
Onde é a casa de de …
banho? ee·da
ee·da ee vol·ta
plane avião

Shopping & Services train comboio

I’d like to buy … ke·ree·a kong·praar … … ticket um bilhete
Queria comprar … de …

How much is it? kwang·too koosh·ta one-way ida
Quanto custa?
return ida e volta
It’s too expensive.
Está muito caro. shtaa mweeng·too kaa·roo

There’s a mistake in the bill. I want to go to … ke·ree·a eer a …
Há um erro na conta. aa oong e·rroo na kong·ta Queria ir a …

What time does it leave/arrive?
A que horas sai/chega? a ke o·rash sai/she·ga

Time & Numbers TONGA

QWuheaht otirmasesiãsoi?t ? kee o·rash sowng Tonga is spoken mainly in Zambia’s Southern
Province. You can generally get by using Eng-
It’s (10) o’clock. sowng (desh) o·rash lish numbers for prices and time.
São (dez) horas.

Half past (10). (desh) e may·a
(Dez) e meia.

morning manhã ma·nyang Basics Wabonwa/Wapona. (inf)
afternoon H e llo. Mwabonwa/Mwpona.
evening tarde taar·de (pol)
yesterday
today noite noy·te Goodbye. Muchale kabotu.
tomorrow
1 ontem ong·teng Good morning. Mwabuka kabotu.
2
3 hoje o·zhe Good evening. Kwa siya.
4
5 amanhã aa·ma·nyang Good night. Kusiye kabotu.
6
7 um oong Please. Ndalomba.

dois doysh Thank you/excuse me. Amuninjatile.

três tresh Thank you very much. Twalumba kapati.

quatro kwaa·troo Yes. Ee.

cinco seeng·koo No. Pepe.

seis saysh How are you? Muli buti?

sete se·te

237

MOZAMBIQUE’S LOCAL LANGUAGES
While Portuguese will greatly facilitate your travels in Mozambique, a few greetings and
basic phrases in one of the local languages will be warmly received. Changana (also
called Tsonga) is one of the most useful languages in Maputo and southern Mozambique.

Good morning. lixile (‘li-shee-le’) Good afternoon. lipelile Language Tonga
Goodbye. salani Thank you. kanimambo

In the far north near Lake Niassa, most people speak Nyanja.

Good morning. mwaka bwanji Good afternoon. mwalongedza
Goodbye. ine de likupita
Thank you very much. zikomo kwambile

The main languages in central Mozambique are Sena and Ndau. To greet someone in
Sena, say magerwa. In Ndau, it’s mawata. In and around Chimoio, you will also hear
Manyika with the greeting mangwanani.

In much of Nampula and Cabo Delgado provinces, where major languages include
Makonde and Makhuwa, the most useful greeting is salaam’a.

In northern Cabo Delgado Swahili is useful; here are some basic phrases in Swahili.

Hello. Jambo./Salama. 1 moja
2 mbili
Goodbye. Kwa heri. 3 tatu
4 nne
How are you? Habari? 5 tano
6 sita
I’m fine, thanks. Nzuri. 7 saba
8 nane
Yes. Ndiyo. 9 tisa
10 kumi
No. Hapana.

Please. Tafadhali.

Thank you (very much). Asante (sana).

You’re welcome. Karibu.

Excuse me. Samahani.

I’m fine. Ndi kabotu. chicken nkuku
coffee nofi
Good./Fine./OK. Mbubo. eggs ma gee
fish inswi
What’s your name? Ndiweni izyina? meat nyama
milk mukupa
My name is … Izyina iyangu ndime … onion hangisi
potatoes mapotato
I don’t understand. Tandileteleli. pumpkin leaves lungu
rice laisi
How much? Mali nzi? sweet potato chibwali
tea tii
toilets chimbuzi tomatoes lunkomba
vegetables cisu mani
men ba lumi/mulombwana (drinking) water menda (a kumwa)

women ba kaintu

today tunu

tomorrow chifumo

yesterday ijilo

Eating & Drinking
Please bring me … Mu ndetele …

beans bunyanga

beef nyama ya ng’ombe

beer bukoko

bread chinkwa

238

L a n g uag e G L OSSARY 4WD – four-wheel drive; locally camp (noun) – a place to stay, dambo – area of grass, reeds
called 4x4 but not necessarily one that or swamp alongside a river
entails ‘camping’, or even budget course (Z, Ma)
ablutions block – found at accommodation; throughout dassies – herbivorous
camping grounds and caravan Africa, many places with ‘Camp’ gopher-like mammals of two
parks: a building that contains in the name are upmarket es- species: Procavia capensis,
toilets, showers and washing-up tablishments – effectively small also called the rock hyrax, and
area; also known as an ameni- hotels in or near national parks Dendrohyrax arborea or tree
ties block but retaining the feel of being out hyrax; these are not rodents but
aldeamento – fortified village in the bush thought to be the closest living
complex (Mo) capitania – port authority relatives of the elephant
ANC – African National (Mo) dhow – Arabic sailing vessel
­Congress capulana – a colourful cloth that dates from ancient times
assimilados – a colonial-era worn by women around their dia da cidade – city or town
population classification, refer- waist (Mo) day; a holiday commemorating
ring to those Mozambicans who casa de cultura – literally, the town’s founding, often cele-
adopted Portuguese customs ‘house of culture’; cultural centre brated with parades and song-
and ways (Mo) found in each provincial capital. and-dance performances (Mo)
The casas de cultura exist to difaqane – forced migration by
baía – bay (Mo) promote traditional culture and several Southern African tribes in
bairro – neighbourhood, area are good sources of information the face of Zulu aggression; also
or section of town (Mo) on traditional music and dance known as mfecane
baixa – the lower-lying area of performances in the area (Mo) djembe – a type of hand drum
a city or town; in coastal Mozam- casal – room with a double donga – steep-sided gully
bique this often means the part bed (Mo) caused by soil erosion
of the city near the port, and the cascata – waterfall (Mo) donkey boiler – a water tank
baixa is frequently synonymous casita – bungalow (Mo) positioned over a fire and used
with ‘commercial district’ (Mo) CBD – Central Business to heat water for showers and
bakkie – utility or pick-up truck District; city centre or downtown other purposes
(pronounced ‘bucky’) area drift – a river ford; most are
barraca – market stall or food cerveja – beer (Mo) normally dry
stall; also a thatched shelter at chambo – a fish of the tilapia duplo – room with two twin
camping grounds, often with family, commonly eaten in beds; see also casal
plug points (Mo) Malawi
biltong – a chewy dried meat chapa – any public transport EN1 – Estrada Nacional 1; the
that can be anything from beef that is not a bus or truck; usually main south–north highway in
to kudu or ostrich refers to converted minivans or Mozambique; also often N1.
BIM – Banco Internacional de pick-ups EN6 – Estrada Nacional 6; the
Moçambique chibuku – local style highway running from Beira
boma – town (Ma, Z) mass-produced beer, stored in west towards Chimoio and the
braai – a barbecue tanks and served in buckets, or Mozambique–Zimbabwe border;
buck or bok – any kind of available in takeaway cartons also often N6.
antelope (mostly in Malawi) and plastic estrada – road, highway (Mo)
buhobe – staple made from bottles known as scuds (Ma, Z) euphorbia – several species of
maize, millet or cassava flour chiperone – damp misty cactus-like succulents that are
(Lozi) (Z) weather that affects southern endemic in Southern Africa
bushcamp – a small and Malawi (Ma)
exclusive place to stay deep in a chitenje– multicoloured piece feira – trading fair (Mo)
national park, usually dismantled of material used as a scarf and flotty – a hat for canoe safaris,
in the wet season, then rebuilt sarong with a chin-strap and a bit of
next dry season correios – post office (Mo) cork in a zippered pocket to
busunso – any sauce used ensure that it floats in case of
with buhobe (Z) dagaa – small, sardine-like fish a capsize
(Ma, Mo) fortaleza – fort (Mo)
camião, camiões – truck(s) dagga – (pronounced da- Frelimo (Frente da Libertação
(Mo) kha) Southern African term for de Moçambique) – Mozambique
marijuana, not to be confused Liberation Front
with dagaa

239

fynbos – fine bush, primarily KK – popular nickname for Ken- a dietary staple throughout the L a n g uag e G L OSSARY
proteas, heaths and ericas neth Kaunda (not d­ erogatory) region; known as xima in Mozam-
(Z) bique (Z, Ma)
galabiyya – man’s full-length kotu – king’s court (Z) mercado – market (Mo)
robe kwacha – Zambian and metical, meticais – Mozam-
game – formerly used for any Malawian currency bican currency
animal hunted, now applied to all kwasa kwasa – Congo-style mielies – cobs of maize
large, four-footed creatures rhumba music migração – immigration (Mo)
GMA – Game Management Area minas (minas de terra) – land
lago – lake (Mo) mines (Mo)
igini – magic charm used by LAM – Linhas Aéreas de mfecane – see difaqane
witches; other magic charms are Moçambique; Mozambique’s miombo – moist open wood-
also known as inkuwa (Z, Ma) national airline land, also called Brachystegia
ilha – island (Mo) litunga – king (Z) woodland; comprises mainly
ilya – a delicacy of very thin LMS – London Missionary mopane and acacia bushveld
corn porridge mixed with yogurt Society monte(s) – mountain(s) (Mo)
and sugar (Lozi) (Z) lupembe – wind instrument mopane worms – the cater-
indígenas – literally, ‘in- made from animal horn pillar of the moth Gonimbrasia
digenous people’, refers to lutindzi – type of grass belina, eaten as a local delicacy
a ­colonial-era population throughout the region
­classification (Mo) mabele – sorghum (Z, Ma) mpasa – lake salmon (Ma)
inselberg – isolated ranges machamba – small farm plot murunge – see mzungu
and hills; literally ‘island (Mo) muti – traditional medicine
­mountains’ machibombo – bus (Mo) mzungu – white person, espe-
Izzit? – rhetorical question makishi – a dance performed cially in Zambia and Malawi
that most closely translates as in Zambia featuring male danc-
‘Really?’ and used without regard ers wearing masks of stylised nganga – fortune teller
to gender, person or number of human faces and with grass nalikwanda – huge wooden
subjects; therefore, may also skirts and anklets (Z) canoe that is painted with black
mean ‘Is it?’, ‘Are you?’, ‘Is he?’, makwaela – a type of dance and white stripes and carries the
‘Are they?’, ‘Is she?’, ‘Are we?’ , characterised by a cappella litunga (Z)
etc; also ‘How izzit?’, for ‘How’s singing accompanied by foot ncheni – lake tiger fish (Ma)
it going?’ percussion now now – definitely not now,
Malawi shandy – non-­ but sometime sooner than just
jesse – dense, thorny scrub, alcoholic drink made from ginger now
normally impenetrable to beer, Angostura bitters, orange nshima – filling maize
humans or lemon slices, soda and ice p­ orridge-like substance eaten
just now – refers to some mapiko – masked dance of the in Zambia; known as nsima in
time in the future but implies a Makonde people; also refers to Malawi and xima in Mozambique
certain degree of imminence; it the wooden masks worn by the nyanga – panpipes; also the
could be half an hour from now dancer (Mo) name of a dance in which the
or two days from now marginal – beach road (Mo) dancer plays the panpipes (Mo)
marimba – African xylophone,
kalindula – modern Zambian made from strips of resonant pan – dry flat area of grassland
style of music involving a blend wood with various-sized gourds or salt, often a seasonal lake-bed
of Congolese rumba and more for sound boxes parque nacional – national
gentle indigenous sounds (Z) marrabenta – Mozambique’s park (Mo)
kampango – catfish (Ma) national music, with an upbeat participation safari – an in-
kankobele – thumb piano; style and distinctive beat expensive safari in which clients
consists of narrow iron matola – pick-up or van carry- pitch their own tents, pack the
keys mounted in rows ing passengers (Ma) vehicle and share cooking duties
on a wooden sound mbira – thumb piano; consists pastelaria – shop selling
board (Ma) of five to 24 narrow iron keys pastries, cakes and often light
kapenta – an anchovy-like fish mounted in meals as well (Mo)
(Limnothrissa mioda) caught in rows on a wooden sound board Pedicle, the – the tongue of
Lake Kariba mealie meal or Democratic Republic of Congo
mielie pap – maize porridge,

240

L a n g uag e G L OSSARY territory that almost divides relish – sauce of meat, vegeta- tufo – a dance of Arabic origin,
Zambia into two bles, beans etc eaten with boiled common on Mozambique Island
peg – milepost mielie meal (nsima, nshima etc) and along the northern Mozam-
pensão, pensões – inexpen- Renamo (Resistência Nacional bican coast (Mo)
sive hotel(s) (Mo) Moçambicana/Mozambican
photographic safari – National Resistance) – the main veld – open grassland (pro-
safari in which participants carry opposition party in Mozambique nounced ‘felt’), normally in pla-
cameras rather than guns reserva – reserve (Mo) teau regions; lowveld, highveld,
pint – small bottle of beer or robot – traffic light bushveld, strandveld, panveld
can of oil (or similar), usually rondavel – round, African-style vlei – (pronounced ‘flay’) any
around 300ml to 375ml (not hut low open landscape, sometimes
necessarily equal to a British or rooibos – literally ‘red bush’ in marshy
US pint) Afrikaans; herbal tea that reput-
piri-piri or peri-peri– hot edly has therapeutic qualities watu – dugout canoe used in
pepper sauce (Mo) rua – street (Mo) western Zambia (Z)
potjie – (poy-kee) a three-­
legged pot used to make stew sangoma – witchdoctor; xima – maize- or cassava-based
over an open fire; also refers herbalist staple, usually served with a
both to the stew itself and to slasher – hand tool with a sauce of beans, vegetables or
a gathering at which the stew curved blade used to cut grass fish; also known as upshwa in
forms the main dish or crops, hence ‘to slash’ means some areas (Mo)
pousada – hotel or inn, usually ‘to cut grass’
a step up from a pensão (Mo) sungwa – a type of perch (Ma) zol – see dagga
praça – square (Mo)
praia – beach (Mo) tackies – trainers, tennis
prazeiro – prazo holder (Mo) shoes, gym shoes
prazo – privately owned tambo – fermented millet and
agricultural estates allocated sugar drink
by the Portuguese crown; the TDM (Telecomunicações de
prazo system was used by the Moçambique) – the national
Portuguese between the 17th telecommunications company
and early-20th centuries in an timbila (plural of mbila) – type
attempt to strengthen their of marimba or xylophone used
control in Mozambique (Mo) by the Chopi people (Mo)
toasties – toasted sandwiches
refresco – soda, soft drink township – indigenous suburb,
(Mo) typically a high-density black
régulo – chief, traditional residential area
leader (Mo)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 241

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Trent Holden

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last First up, thanks to Matt Phillips for commissioning
edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful me on Zambia, as well as all the production staff for
advice and interesting anecdotes: putting it all together. A huge thanks to Kim Phippen
Andy Craig, Bas Geelen, Carole Plan, Cristobal Vega, for taking the time to help out in all manners, much
Daniel Hager, Dominic Frei, John Schelesnak, John appreciated! To my good friend Lacken ‘Lucky’
Seaman, Kathleen Kearns, Katie Belshaw, Mark Banda for the epic road trip, as well as Giacomo in
Rowlatt, Mike Paredes, Suzanne van Hooff facilitating this; the team from African Parks for their
assistance in helping me get around Liuwa Plain
WRITER THANKS National Park; David Julian Wightman for taking
the time to take me on the ‘salaula experience’ and
Mary Fitzpatrick helping out with info; Ian Murphy for a copy of his
awesome books; finally lots of love to my family,
Many thanks to all those who helped me during especially Kate who allows me to travel to such far-
this project, especially to Rafael Holt in Tofo for the flung, exotic places.
excellent background information; to Sidney Bliss in
Maputo for updates on the latest Mozambique hap- Brendan Sainsbury
penings; and to the staff at Maputo Special Reserve
and at Limpopo National Park. My biggest thanks go Thanks to all the untold taxi drivers, chefs, hotel
to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their receptionists, tour guides, and innocent bystanders
company, patience, good humour and support in who helped me during this research. Special thanks
Mozambique and back home. to Jasper and Bart in Pemba, the guys at Cinco
Portas on Ibo Island, Peter at Pensão Gurúè, and the
James Bainbridge wonderful staff at Gorongosa National Park.

Believe the hype about Malawian friendliness: this ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
really is the Warm Heart of Africa. Zikomo, then, to
pretty much everyone for being so awesome, and in Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson
particular to the many folk, too numerous to men- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the
tion, in lodges from Mzuzu to Mulanje. My research Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and
trip was considerably more fruitful and fun with your Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
local knowledge and sociable bottles of Green. Cover photograph: Lion cubs, South Luangwa
N­ ational Park, Zambia; Steve Bloom Images/Alamy

242

BEHIND THE SCENES

THIS BOOK by Mary Fitzpatrick, Michael Book Designer Mazzy P­ rinsep
Grosberg, Trent Holden, Kate Assisting Editors Sarah
This 3rd edition of Lonely Plan- Morgan, Nick Ray and Richard Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Pete
et’s Zambia, Mozambique & Waters. This guidebook was Cruttenden, Rosie Nicholson,
Malawi guidebook was re- produced by the following: Victoria Smith
searched and written by Mary Destination Editor Matt
Fitzpatrick, James Bainbridge, Phillips Assisting Cartographers
Brendan Sainsbury and Trent Product Editors Bruce Evans, Julie Dodkins, Corey Hutchison
Holden, and curated by Mary. Kate Kiely Cover Researcher Naomi
The Victoria Falls chapter was Senior Cartographer Diana Parker
curated by Anthony Ham. The Von Holdt Thanks to Jennifer Carey,
previous edition was written David Carroll, Daniel Corbett

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 243

Index

ABBREVIATIONS arts travel to/from 210 cathedrals, see churches &
Malawi 217 travel within 210 cathedrals
Ma Malawi Mozambique 163-4 boat travel
Mo Mozambique dhow safaris 124-5, 144 cell phones 15
Z Zambia B Malawi 223 Malawi 220-1
Mozambique 169, 172 Mozambique 168
A Banda, Dr Hastings Kamuzu river cruises 88 Zambia 80
215-16 Zambia 82
abseiling 87 books, see also literature Central Malawi 192-200, 193
accommodation, see also Banda, Joyce 216 health 227 Central Mozambique 127-38
Bangweulu Wetlands (Z) border crossings 81-2, 169- chapas 173
individual locations 71, 222-3 cheetahs 53, 62
booking 78 65-6 Boy Who Harnessed The Chichewa language 233
Malawi 174, 218 Barra (Mo) 122 Wind, The 217 Chikanka Island Camp
Mozambique 101, 165 Batoka Gorge (Z) 87, 89 bridge swinging 87
Zambia 34, 78 Bazaruto Archipelago (Mo) bridge walking 87 (Z) 57
activities 20, see also indi- budgeting 15 children, travel with
vidual activities 11, 126-7, 11 Malawi 218, 219
Malawi 218-19 beaches 16 Mozambique 166 Malawi 219
Mozambique 165 Zambia 78, 80 Mozambique 165
Zambia 78 Chidenguele (Mo) 118 buffaloes 49, 52, 53, 58, Zambia 78
adventure travel 18 Macaneta Beach (Mo) 62, 95 Chimanimani Mountains
AIDS 228 bungee jumping 87 (Mo) 133
air travel 113-14 bus travel Chimfunshi Wildlife
Malawi 221-2, 223 Macuti Beach (Mo) 127 Malawi 222-3, 224 Orphanage (Z) 72-3
Mozambique 168, 171 Morrungulo (Mo) 123 Mozambique 172 Chimoio (Mo) 131-2
Zambia 81, 82-3 Murrébuè (Mo) 155-6 Zambia 83 chimpanzees 72-3
amoebic dysentery 231 Wimbi Beach (Mo) 151, bushcamps 50 Chinamapere Rock
animals, see birds, marine business hours, see opening Paintings (Mo) 132
life, wildlife, 153-4 hours Chingola (Z) 72
individual species Zalala Beach (Mo) 137 Chipata (Z) 45-6
aquariums Beira (Mo) 127-31, 128 C Chirundu (Z) 52-3
Stuart M Grant Tropical Bemba language 232-3 Chizumulu Island (Ma) 192
Bilene (Mo) 116 Cabaceira Grande (Mo) Chocas (Mo) 146-7
Fish Farm (Ma) 195 bilharzia 229 146-7 cholera 227
archaeological sites birds Choma (Z) 57-8
Malawi 218 Cabaceira Pequena (Mo) churches & cathedrals
Chinamapere Rock Mozambique 117, 164 146-7 Cathedral of Nossa
Paintings (Mo) 132 Zambia 49
birdwatching Cahora Bassa Dam (Mo) 135 Senhora da Conceição
area codes 15 Malawi 218 Caia (Mo) 135 (Mo) 104
Malawi 220 Mozambique 165 canoeing 87 Cathedral of Nossa
Mozambique 168 Zambia 64, 87 Cape Maclear (Ma) 196-200, Senhora de Fátima
Zambia 80 Blantyre (Ma) 205-10, 206, (Mo) 138
208 198, 26-7 Cathedral of St Peter
art galleries, see museums accommodation 206-7 car travel 14 (Ma) 191
& galleries drinking 207 Igreja da Misericórdia
food 207 Malawi 224 (Mo) 143
Map Pages 000 information 209-10 Mozambique 172 Igreja de Nossa Senhora
Photo Pages 000 medical services 209 Zambia 83-4 dos Remedios (Mo)
nightlife 207 carbon offset 82 146-7
shopping 207-9 Livingstonia Church
sights 205-6 (Ma) 184

I N D E X C - L244 dogs, wild 49 giardiasis 231 itineraries 22-30, 22, 24,
churches continued dolphins 114 giraffes 35, 77, 95 27, 28, 30
Mua Roman Catholic driving, see car travel gorge swings 89
mission (Ma) 196 driving licences 83, 172 Gorongosa National Park J
St Michael and All Angels
Church (Ma) 205 E (Mo) 131 jet boating 87
Chuwanga (Mo) 149 Gule Wamkulu 216
cinema 21 Eastern Zambia 45-52 Gurúè (Mo) 137-8 K
climate 14, 19-21, 14 electricity
climate change 82 H Kafue National Park (Z) 12,
Cóbuè (Mo) 149-50, 151 Mozambique 165 58-61, 12, 23
coffee 158 Zambia 78 health 226-31
consulates, see embassies elephants 35, 49, 53, 95, books 227 Kamkwamba, William 217
& consulates 117, 28 insurance 226 Kapiri Mposhi (Z) 71
Copperbelt (Z) 71-3 embassies & consulates websites 227 Kariba Dam (Z) 56
costs 15 Malawi 219 Karonga (Ma) 182-4
crocodile diving 87 Mozambique 166 heat exhaustion 231 Kasama (Z) 68
crocodiles 87 Zambia 78-9 heatstroke 231 Kasanka National Park
Cuamba (Mo) 147-8 environmental issues hepatitis A 228
cultural villages Malawi 218 hepatitis B 228 (Z) 64-5
Kawaza Village (Z) 48 Mozambique 164 highlights 6-7, 8-13, 6-7, kayaking 87
Njobvu Cultural Village Zambia 76 kite surfing 125
(Ma) 200-2 events, see festivals & 8-13 Kitwe (Z) 72
culture 17 events Malawi 175 Kuomboka Ceremony
Malawi 217 exchange rates Mozambique 102-3
Zambia 76 Malawi 220 Zambia 36-7 (Z) 63
currency 14 Mozambique 167 hiking 87
cycling 218 Zambia 79 Cape Maclear (Ma) 197 L
Gurúè (Mo) 138
D F Ibo Island (Mo) 160 Lake Kariba (Z) 56-7
Mozambique 165 Lake Malawi (Mo) 149
da Gama, Vasco 161 festivals & events 19-21 Mt Mulanje (Ma) 211 Lake Niassa (Mo) 149-
dance Kuomboka ceremony Quirimba Island (Mo)
(Z) 63 50, 151
Gule Wamkulu 216 Lake of Stars Music 160 Lake Tanganyika (Z) 69-70
Mozambique 163 Festival (Ma) 217 Zomba Plateau (Ma) 205 landscapes 18
dangers, see safe travel hippopotamuses 55, 58, language 14, 232-40
David Livingstone Fibwe Hide (Z) 64 220, 10 lechwe 58, 62, 77
memorial (Z) 65 filariasis 228 history 17 leopards 53
dengue fever 228 films 21 Malawi 214-17 Lichinga (Mo) 148
Devil’s Pool (Z) 9, 90, 8-9 Mozambique 160-3 Likoma Island (Ma) 11,
dhow safaris festivals 21 Zambia 73-6
Mozambique Island flying foxes 89 hitchhiking 191-2, 11
food Zambia 84 Lilongwe (Ma) 176-82,
(Mo) 144 HIV 228
Vilankulo (Mo) 124-5 costs 80, 186, 219 holidays 178-9
diarrhoea 230-1 language 233, 234, Malawi 220 accommodation 176
diphtheria 228 Mozambique 167 drinking 177
diving & snorkelling 235, 237 Zambia 80 entertainment 177
Bazaruto Archipelago Malawi 174, 219 horse riding 87, 125 food 177
Mozambique 101, 145, information 180
(Mo) 127 I medical services 180
Cape Maclear (Ma) 197 163, 186 money 180
Malawi 218-19 Zambia 34, 80 Ibo Island coffee 158 nightlife 177
Mozambique 165 forts Ibo Island (Mo) 156-7 safe travel 180
Nkhata Bay (Ma) 189 Fort, Maputo (Mo) 104 Inhaca Island (Mo) 113 shopping 177-80
Pemba (Mo) 151 Fort of São João Baptista Inhambane (Mo) 118-20, 119 sights 176
Ponta d’Ouro (Mo) 114 insect bites 231 travel to/from 180-2
Tofo (Mo) 120 (Mo) 156 insurance travel within 182
Vilankulo (Mo) 124 Fort of São Sebastião Limbe (Ma) 205-10
health 226 Limpopo National Park
Map Pages 000 (Mo) 143 internet access (Mo) 116-18
Photo Pages 000 fuel 83, 172 lions 49, 52, 56, 58, 62, 89,
Malawi 219 218, 24
G Mozambique 166 literature
Zambia 79 Malawi 217
galleries, see museums & Mozambique 163
galleries

geography 76-7

245

Liuwa Plain National Park environmental issues 218 marrabenta 19, 163 time 168 I N D E X L- N
(Z) 62 food 174, 219 Marracuene (Mo) 113-14 travel seasons 101
highlights 175 Massinga (Mo) 123 travel to/from 168-71
Livingstone, David 215 history 214-17 matapa de siri siri 145 travel within 171-3
holidays 220 Matemo (Mo) 157 visas 168
Livingstone (Z) 90-5, 92 internet access 219 Maxixe (Mo) 122-3 Mozambique Island (Mo) 9,
accommodation 91-3 language 233 Mbala (Z) 68-9 142-6, 142, 9, 26
drinking 94 literature 217 medicine, traditional 227 Mpika (Z) 67
food 93-4 money 219-20 Medjumbe (Mo) 157 Mpulungu (Z) 69-70
immigration 94 national parks 218 meningococcal meningitis Mt Mulanje (Ma) 12, 211-13,
information 94 opening hours 219 2, 12
medical services 94 politics 214 229 Mt Namúli (Mo) 138
money 94 safe travel 220 Metangula (Mo) 149 Mua (Ma) 196
nightlife 94 telephone services 220-1 minibus travel Mueda (Mo) 159
safe travel 94 time 221 Mulanje (Ma) 210-13
shopping 94 tourist information 221 Malawi 224 Murrébuè (Mo) 155-6
sights 90 travel seasons 174 Zambia 83 museums & galleries
tours 90-1 travel to/from 221-3 mobile phones 15 Chamare Museum
travel to/from 94 visas 221 Malawi 220-1
travel within 95 volunteering 221 Mozambique 168 (Ma) 196
Manica (Mo) 132-3 Zambia 80 Copperbelt Museum
Livingstonia (Ma) 184-5 Moçimboa da Praia (Mo)
Liwonde (Ma) 200-2 Maputo 158-9 (Z) 71
Liwonde National Park Maputo (Mo) 13, 104-13, Mocuba (Mo) 137 Geology Museum (Mo)
money 14, 15
(Ma) 11, 200-2, 11, 28 106-7, 13 Malawi 219-20 132-3
Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary accommodation 105-10 Mozambique 166-7 Henry Tayali Visual Arts
drinking 111 Zambia 79-80
(Ma) 202 entertainment 111 Mongu (Z) 61-2 Centre (Z) 35
Lochinvar National Park festivals & events 105 Monkey Bay (Ma) 196 Lusaka National Museum
food 110-11 Montepuez (Mo) 151
(Z) 58 immigration 111 Morrungulo (Mo) 123 (Z) 35
Lower Zambezi National internet access 111 motorcycle travel Moto Moto Museum
medical services 111 Malawi 224
Park (Z) 10, 53-6, money 111 Mozambique 172 (Z) 68-9
54, 10 nightlife 111 Zambia 83-4, 95 Museu de Arte Sacra
Lozi language 233-4 safe travel 111-12 Zimbabwe 100
Luambe National Park shopping 111 (Mo) 143
(Z) 51 sights 104-5 Mozambique 101-73, 102-3 Museu Nacional de
tours 105 accommodation 101, 165
Lusaka (Z) 35-45, 40-1 travel agencies 112 activities 165 Etnografia (Mo) 139
accommodation 35-9 travel to/from 112 budgeting 166 Museum of Malawi
drinking 39-42 travel within 112-13 children, travel with 165
food 39 Maputo Special Reserve dance 163 (Ma) 205
information 43 (Mo) 117 electricity 165 Mzuzu Museum (Ma) 187
medical services 43 marine life 164 embassies & consulates Namwandwe Gallery
money 43 markets 166
nightlife 39-42 Big Curio Open Market environmental issues 164 (Z) 35
safe travel 43 food 101, 145, 163, 186 National Art Museum
shopping 42-3 (Zimbabwe) 99 highlights 102-3
travel to/from 43-5 Craft Market (Ma) history 160-3 (Mo) 104
travel within 45 holidays 167 National Money Museum
179-80 internet access 166
M Fish Market (Mo) 110 language 235-6 (Mo) 104-5
Lusaka City Market literature 163 Natural History Museum
Macaneta Beach (Mo) money 166-7
113-14 (Z) 35 music 163 (Mo) 105
Municipal Market (Mo) national parks 164 Nayuma Museum (Z) 61
Majete Wildlife Reserve opening hours 165 Palace & Chapel of São
(Ma) 13, 213-14, 13 104 politics 160
Salaula Clothing Market safe travel 129, 167-8 Paulo (Mo) 143
malaria 228-9 telephone services 168 Stone House Museum
(Z) 42
Malawi 174-224, 175 Sunday Market (Z) 42 (Ma) 184
accommodation 174, 218 Sunday Morning Craft music 19, 21
activities 218-19
budgeting 218, 219 Market (Mo) 140 Mozambique 163
children, travel with 219 Mutinondo Wilderness
culture 217
embassies & consulates (Z) 66-7
219
Mzuzu (Ma) 187-8, 188

N

Nampula (Mo) 138-42, 140
national parks & nature

reserves

Chimanimani National
Reserve (Mo) 133

I N D E X N -V246 Zambia 78 Q Southern Zambia 52-8
national parks & nature Ndola (Z) 71-2 steam trains 88-9
reserves continued Ngonye Falls (Z) 63-4 quadbiking 87 stings 231
Chimfunshi Wildlife Niassa Reserve (Mo) 150-1 Quelimane (Mo) 135-7, 136 Stuart M Grant Tropical
Orphanage (Z) 72-3 Nkhata Bay (Ma) 189-91, Quilaluia (Mo) 158
Gorongosa National Park Quirimba Island (Mo) Fish Farm (Ma) 195
(Mo) 131 190 swings 89
Kafue National Park (Z) Nkhotakota (Ma) 193-5 158, 160
12, 58-61, 12, 23 Nkwichi Lodge (Mo) 151 Quirimbas Archipelago T
Kasanka National Park North Luangwa National
(Z) 64-5 (Mo) 156-8, 12 taxis
Lilayi Elephant Nursery Park (Z) 52 Malawi 224
(Z) 35 Northern Malawi 182-92, R Mozambique 173
Lilongwe Wildlife Centre Zambia 84
(Ma) 176 183 rabies 229
Limpopo National Park Northern Mozambique relaxation 16-17 telephone services 15
(Mo) 116-18 reserves, see national cell phones 15
Liuwa Plain National 138-60 Malawi 220-1
Park (Z) 62 Northern Zambia 64-70 parks & nature reserves mobile phones 15
Liwonde National Park Nyanja language 234-5 rhinoceroses 35, 52, 77, 89, Mozambique 168
(Ma) 11, 200-2, 11, 28 Nyika National Park (Ma) Zambia 80
Liwonde Rhino 90, 91, 97, 202
Sanctuary (Ma) 202 185-6, 186 river cruises 88 Tete (Mo) 133-4
Lochinvar National Park timbila orchestra 163
(Z) 58 O S time 236
Lower Zambezi National
Park (Z) 10, 53-6, opening hours safaris 47, 53, 62, 84, Malawi 221
54, 10 Malawi 219 89, 200, 202, see Mozambique 168
Luambe National Park Mozambique 165 also dhow safaris Zambia 80
(Z) 51 Zambia 78 Tofinho (Mo) 122
Lusaka National Park safe travel Tofo (Mo) 120-2
(Z) 35 orchids 19 Malawi 220 Tonga language 236-7
Majete Wildlife Reserve Mozambique 111-12, 129, tour guides (Ma) 197
(Ma) 13, 213-14, 13 P 167-8 tourist information
Malawi 218 wildlife 220 Malawi 221
Maputo Special Reserve packing 15 Zambia 43, 80 Zambia 80
(Mo) 117 palaces Zimbabwe 99 tours
Mosi-oa-Tunya National dolphin (Mo) 114-15
Park (Z) 90, 98 Lealui Palace (Z) 61 Samfya (Z) 66 Zambia 84
Mozambique 164 Palace & Chapel of São scenic flights 88 train travel 88-9
Niassa Reserve (Mo) schistosomiasis 229 Malawi 224
150-1 Paulo (Mo) 143 scorpion stings 231 Mozambique 173
Nkhotakota Wildlife Palma (Mo) 159-60 Senanga (Z) 62-3 travel advisories 167
Reserve (Ma) 194-5 Pemba (Mo) 151-5, 152, 25 Senga Bay (Ma) 195-6 travel seasons 14
North Luangwa National planning Serenje (Z) 64 trypanosomiasis 230
Park (Z) 52 Sesheke (Z) 64 tsetse files 61, 77, 80, 230
Nsumbu National Park budgeting 15 Shiwa Ng’andu (Z) 67-8 tuberculosis 230
(Z) 70 calendar of events 19-21 Siavonga (Z) 56-7 typhoid 230
Nyika National Park (Ma) children 78, 165, 219 Sinazongwe (Z) 57
185-6, 186 countries 31-2 slavery 214-15 V
South Luangwa National itineraries 22-30, 22, 24, sleeping sickness 230
Park (Z) 10, 46-52, snake bites 231 vaccinations 226
47, 10 27, 28, 30 snorkelling, see diving & Victoria Falls 85-100, 86,
Victoria Falls National travel seasons 14, 19-21
Park (Zimbabwe) 95 websites 15 snorkelling 96, 98, 8-9, 23
Vwaza Marsh Wildlife plants Songo (Mo) 135 access 91
Reserve (Ma) 186-7 Mozambique 164 South Luangwa National accommodation 85
Zambezi National Park Zambia 77-8 activities 86-9
(Zimbabwe) 95 poliomyelitis 229 Park (Z) 10, 46-52, food 85
politics 47, 10 highlights 86
Map Pages 000 Malawi 214 accommodation 47-50 travel seasons 85, 88
Photo Pages 000 Mozambique 160 food 51 visas 90
Zambia 73 shopping 51 Zambia 89-95
Pomene (Mo) 123 travel to/from 51 Zimbabwe 95-100
Ponta d’Ouro (Mo) 114-16 travel within 51-2
Ponta Malongane (Mo) wildlife 49
114-16 Southern Malawi 200-
Portuguese language 14, 201
235-6 Southern Mozambique
114-27

247

Victoria Falls World weather 14, 19-21, 14 Zambia 34-84, 36-7 travel within 82-4 I N D E X V-Z
­Heritage National Mon- websites 15 accommodation 34, 78 visas 80-1
ument Site (Z) 90 activities 78 volunteering 81
health 227 animals 77 zebras 35, 53, 57, 58, 62,
Vilankulo (Mo) 124-6, 124 Western Zambia 58-64 budgeting 78, 80 67, 95, 202
Viphya Plateau (Ma) 192-3 white-water rafting 87-8 children, travel with 78 Crawshay’s zebras 49
visas 14 wild dogs 49 electricity 78 ziplining 89
wildlife 16, 164, see embassies & consulates Zimbabwe 85-9, 90, 91,
Malawi 221 78-9 95-100, 86
Mozambique 168 also birds, ­individual environmental issues 76 activities 86-9
Zambia 80-1 species food 34, 80 accommodation 97
Zimbabwe 90 dangers 220 highlights 36-7 drinking 98-9
volunteering Malawi 218 history 73-6 food 97-8
Malawi 221 South Luangwa National holidays 80 information 100
Zambia 81 Park (Z) 49 internet access 79 money 100
Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Zambia 77 language 232-7 nightlife 98-9
Reserve (Ma) 186-7 wildlife reserves, money 79-80 safe travel 99
see ­national parks & national parks 78 shopping 9
W reserves opening hours 78 sights 95, 96
wildlife watching people 76 travel to/from 100
waterfalls Mozambique 165 plants 77-8 travel within 100
Gurúè (Mo) 138 Zambia 53-4 politics 73 visas 90
Kalambo Falls (Z) 70 safe travel 80 Zomba (Ma) 202-3
Manchewe Falls (Ma) 184 X telephone services 80 Zomba Plateau (Ma) 203-
Ngonye Falls (Z) 63-4 time 80 4, 204
Victoria Falls National Xai-Xai (Mo) 118 tourist information 80
Park (Zimbabwe) 95 tours 84
Victoria Falls World Y travel seasons 34
Heritage National travel to/from 81-2
Monument Site (Z) 90 yellow fever 230

water sports Z
Cape Maclear (Ma) 197
Malawi 218-19 Zalala Beach (Mo) 137

248 NOTES