Rome

SHOPS AND MARKETS 349

the Trident. Via Margutta is and German Expressionists. and depictions of ancient
also home to several prestig- Fabio Sargentini at L’Attico Roman life.
ious private galleries. follows the latest trends in
Italian art from Del Giudice to Another Roman institution,
The Galleria Valentina Mon- Corsini and Fabiani. Casali, has been trading for
cada exhibits contemporary over 100 years. The family
Italian and international art Another innovative venture now runs two shops special-
and also showcases 20th- in the centre is Galleria izing in 16th- to 19th-century
century photography, while Bonomo (owned by Alessan- drawings and engravings of
dra Bonomo), which spot- Roman scenes ranging from
Monogramma Arte Contem- lights Italian and foreign museum-standard Piranesi
poranea deals with promising painters such as Schifano, down to relatively inexpen-
young artists from Italy and Boetti, Twombly, Nunzio, sive unknown and delightfully
abroad. Tremlett, LeWitt and decorative floral scenes.
Dokoupil.
One of this area’s highlights The Florence-based Alinari
is the Via Margutta art fair (see On the other side of the family is renowned for its old
p353), which usually takes Tiber, the Galleria Lorcan sepia photographs of Italy
place around Christmas and O’Neill showcases contempo- from 1890 onwards, including
in springtime. rary Italian and international shots of Rome a century ago.
art. The gallery has recently At its Roman outlet, prices of
The enterprising Fontanella hosted exhibitions of Tracy photographs from the original
Borghese gallery shows works Emin’s new work. plates start at around €16
by foreign artists such as Sam and mounted prints at €260.
Francis and Andy Warhol. ANTIQUE PRINTS AND Larger sizes can be mounted
Also on view at the gallery PHOTOGRAPHS on wood or card.
are Italian artists like Boetti,
Festa and Turcato. The justifiably celebrated Another place definitely
Nardecchia, named after its worth heading for in search
Via Giulia and its surround- erudite owner Plinio, is the of that perfect print of old
ings is the next area to inves- cream of Rome’s print dealers. Rome and some enjoyable,
tigate: Galleria Giulia is a Look out for originals by the relaxing and maybe
gallery-cum-bookshop with 18th-century engraver Pirane- persuasive browsing is the
works by artists such as Arge- si, as well as views of the city
les, Boille, Cano, Cascella, Mercato delle Stampe
Echaurren, Erba and Lionni, (see p352).
as well as by Bauhaus artists

DIRECTORY

ANTIQUES AND Antichità Cipriani Map 4 D3 & 11 A2. Galleria Lorca
OLD MASTER Via Giulia 122. Tel 06-686 8816. O’Neill
PAINTINGS Map 4 D4 & 11 A3. Via Orti D’Alibert 1E. Map
Tel 06-6830 8344. Piero Taloni 4 D4. Tel 06-6889 2980.
Acanto Via dei Coronari 135.
Via della Stelletta 10. Antiquariato Map 4 E3 & 11 B2. Galleria Valentina
Map 4 F3 & 12 D2. Valligiano Tel 06-687 5450. Moncada
Tel 06-686 5481. Via Giulia 193. Map 4 E5 Via Margutta 54. Map 5
& 11 B5. Tel 06-686 9505. Tad A2. Tel 06-320 7956.
Ad Antiqua Domus Via San Giacomo 5. Map
Via dei Coronari 39–43. Art Deco Gallery 4 F2. Tel 06-3600 1679. Monogramma Arte
Map 4 E3 & 11 B2. Via dei Coronari 14. Also: Via del Babuino Contemporanea
Tel 06-686 1186. Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. 155A. Map 4 F1. Via Margutta 57. Map
Tel 06-686 5330. Tel 06-3269 5125. 5 A2. Tel 06-3265 0297.
Amedeo di Castro
Via del Babuino 77–78. L’Art Nouveau MODERN ART ANTIQUE PRINTS
Map 4 F1. Via dei Coronari 221. AND PHOTOGRAPHS
Tel 06-320 7650. Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. L’Attico
Tel 06-6880 5230. Via del Paradiso 41. Alinari
Anticaja e Petrella Map 4 E4 & 11 C4. Via Alibert 16A. Map 5 A2.
Via Monte della Farina 62. Bilenchi Tel 06-686 9846. Tel 06-679 2923.
Map 4 F5 & 12D4. Via della Stelletta 17.
Map 4 F3 & 12 D2. Fontanella Borghese Casali
Antichità Tel 06-687 5222. Via Fontanella Borghese 31. Piazza della Rotonda
Arredamenti Map 12 D1. 81A/82. Map 4 F4 & 12
Via dei Coronari 218. Map Galleria dei Cosmati Tel 06-687 3741. D3. Tel 06-678 3515.
4 E3. Tel 06-6880 1254. Via Cavallini 8. Map 4 E2. Also: Via dei Coronari 115.
Tel 06-361 1141. Galleria Bonomo Map 11 B2.
Antichità Carnovale Via del Gesù 62. Map 12 Tel 06-687 3705.
Via del Governo Vecchio 71. Giulio Lampronti E3. Tel 06-6992 5858.
Map 11 C3. Via del Babuino 67. Map Nardecchia
Tel 06-686 4850. 4 F1. Tel 06-323 0100. Galleria Giulia Piazza Navona 25.
Via della Barchetta 13. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3.
Mario Prilli Map 4 D4 & 11 B4. Tel 06-686 9318.
Via dei Banchi Nuovi 42. Tel 06-686 1443.

350

Food and Drink

Having sampled the local cuisine during your stay CHOCOLATE
in Rome, you may be tempted to take home some SPECIALISTS
irresistible delicacies that are typical of Italy. The
traditional Italian food stores, alimentari, offer an The capital now hosts a
extensive range of goods and are a great place to number of specialist shops
start. However, specialist shops are also well worth designed to fulfil the needs
a visit. Shop around and choose from many typically of the ever-expanding luxury
Italian products such as pecorino romano cheese, food market. In the centro
Parma ham, extra-virgin olive oil, dried porcini storico, Chocolat sells brand
mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and grappa name and home-made
as well as superb wines from Lazio and elsewhere. If chocolate and also organizes
coffee or chocolate feature on your list, then there’s occasional tastings and
plenty of opportunity to satisfy those cravings too. dinners for connoisseurs.
L’Albero del Cacao near
Do bear in mind, however, that customs restrictions Piazza di Spagna specializes
can apply to certain foodstuffs. Also, when on your in milk and dark chocolate,
shopping sprees, a decent pocket-sized dictionary can and chocolate with nuts and
be very useful in helping you unravel the unfathomable. cereals while, elsewhere,
close to the Pantheon, the
ALIMENTARI The Ferrara Store in landmark Moriondo e
Trastevere sells almost Gariglio serves up strictly
The well-stocked Fratelli everything from fresh pasta Piedmontese treats. Across
Fabbi, near Piazza di Spagna, to chocolate, in addition to the Tiber in Trastevere, La
has an exceptional selection an amazing range of hams Fabbrica del Cioccolato
of delicious cold meats and and cheeses, and great wines produces bizarre but
cheeses from every corner to complement them. In the interesting concoctions such
of Italy, as well as carefully vicinity of Via Veneto is Carlo as white chocolate with
chosen quality wines and Gargani, with its elaborate lemon liqueur filling and
champagnes to accompany variety of food items. dark chocolate laced with
them. A few doors down Via ginger. Rivendita di Cioccolato
della Croce, Focacci is a stiff A saviour for commuters e Vino (see p330) can also be
competitor with its wonderful and tourists is Vyta (see p329) recommended for its selection.
array of Italian delicacies, located inside Termini station;
while nearby Cambi caters you can choose from a selec- ENOTECHE
to its loyal clientele with tion of appetizing sandwiches
similarly first-rate fare. or wines by the glass (alla Although most alimentari
mescita) and enjoy them at and supermarkets stock a
Elsewhere in the centre, the bar. You can even make decent selection of reason-
near Campo de’ Fiori, the a last-minute gift purchase ably priced Italian wines,
recently renovated Roscioli from the wide array of Rome’s many enoteche (see
(see p328), with a reputation preserves, pasta and wines at p328) represent a more
for quality and friendly service, your disposal. Vyta opens its characteristic and gratifying
is a favourite among locals. doors on Sundays too. alternative. As well as being
wine bars and sometimes
Further afield, Franchi (see CHEESE SPECIALISTS even restaurants, they also
p329) in Prati is recognized as sell carefully selected wines,
one of the best delicatessens For the ultimate cheese lover, after-dinner liqueurs, spirits
in the capital for its tempting a wider choice of regional and beers to take away.
window display of seafood and national cheeses, includ-
platters, pâtés, regional ing the best buffalo mozzarel- In the centre, the cramped
cheeses and cold meats that la in town, can be found in a but friendly Mr Wine displays
continue to pull in the crowds. select number of specialist a superb range of mainly
The historic but expensive shops. In the Pinciano district, Italian and a few French
Volpetti in Testaccio is synon- the Casa dei Latticini Micocci wines, as well as a host of
ymous with great service and sells a comprehensive range sparkling wines, whiskies,
uncompromising quality. Aside of cheeses from even the grappa, rum, liqueurs and
from specializing in unusual most remote regions of Italy. some classic Italian food. La
cheeses, olive oils, vinegars While in Trastevere, the Vineria (see p328) in Campo
and a fabulous selection of family-run store Antica Caciara de’ Fiori, while maintaining
food hampers it also stocks Trasteverina also has a vast its status as an institution for
a variety of Italian lard and assortment of local and many bohemian drinkers, also
caviar – you can even try regional products, which successfully doubles up as
before you buy. Nearby is the include sheep’s ricotta and a well-stocked and competi-
well-stocked La Fromagerie, the Piemontese toma del fen. tively priced wine shop.
though those who favour Branches of Cisternino sell
organic produce may prefer well priced local cheeses. Better known for its
to head for Canestro. Neapolitan pizza parlour,
chic restaurant and lively

HOPS AND MARKETS 351

wine bar, ‘Gusto (see p328) near Campo de’ Fiori also COFFEE SPECIALISTS
in Piazza Augusto Imperatore deserve special mentions
offers an outstanding for their extensive wine lists Italian brand coffee has been
assortment of wines for sale and memorable ambience. internationally available for
too. Don’t pass by the shop many years but if you are
either, as it is full of designer In Trastevere, the down-to- looking for something rarer
kitchen accessories and earth off-licence Bernabei or more exotic then make
specialist cookbooks with is good value for money as is your way to Antico Caffè del
recipes for both Italian and the family-run Trimani (see Brasile (see p330) in Monti
international cuisine. p328) near Termini, which for four mouth-watering
has an astounding variety of blends, from Brazilian gem
The central Achilli Enoteca wines and spirits. (the 90 per cent pure variety)
al Parlamento (see p328) and to economy and family mixes.
Enoteca del Corso both Others that should not In the shadow of the Pantheon,
warrant a visit for a refined be overlooked include the the historic Tazza d’Oro (see
alternative, especially if you impressive Costantini in p104) also offers a fantastic
want to relax with an apéritif Piazza Cavour, the beer- selection of blends, including
while you select wines to carry oriented Palombi in Testaccio the Queen of Coffees and
home. Ferrazza (see p362) in and Marchetti in Pinciano, Jamaican Blue Mountain.
San Lorenzo and Il Vinaietto which is the wine experts’
not so closely guarded secret.

DIRECTORY

ALIMENTARI Volpetti Moriondo e Marchetti
Via Marmorata 47. Gariglio Via Flavia 28.
Cambi Map 8 D2. Via del Piè di Marmo 21. Map 5 C2.
Via del Leoncino 30. Tel 06-574 2352. Map 12 E3. Tel 06-474 1745.
Map 12 D1. Tel 06-699 0856.
Tel 06-687 8081. Vyta Mr Wine
Galleria Termini (Termini Rivendita di Piazza del Parlamento 7.
Canestro Station). Map 6 D3. Cioccolato e Vino Map 12 E1.
Via Luca della Robbia 12. Tel 06-4201 4301. Vicolo del Cinque 11A. Tel 06-6813 4141.
Map 8 D2. Map 11 B5.
Tel 06-574 6287. CHEESE Tel 06-5830 1868. Palombi
SPECIALISTS Piazza Testaccio 38.
Carlo Gargani ENOTECHE Map 8 D3.
Via Lombardia 15. Antica Caciara Tel 06-574 6122.
Map 5 B2. Trasteverina Achilli Enoteca
Tel 06-474 0865. Via San Francesco a Ripa al Parlamento Trimani
140a/b. Map 7 C1. Via dei Prefetti 15. Via Goito 20.
Ferrara Store Tel 06-581 2815. Map 12 D1. Map 6 D2.
Via del Moro 3. Tel 06-687 3446. Tel 06-446 9661.
Map 7 C1. Casa dei Latticini
Tel 06-5833 3920. Micocci Bernabei Il Vinaietto
Via Collina 14–16. Via San Francesco a Ripa Via Monte della Farina 38.
Focacci Map 6 D2. 48. Map 12 D4.
Via della Croce 43. Tel 06-474 1784. Map 7 C1. Tel 06-6880 6989.
Map 4 F2. Tel 06 5812818
Tel 06-679 1228. Cisternino La Vineria
Vicolo del Gallo 20. Costantini Campo de’ Fiori 15.
Franchi Map 11 C4. Piazza Cavour 16. Map 11 C4.
Via Cola di Tel 06-687 2875. Map 11 B1. Tel 06-6880 3268.
Rienzo 200. Tel 06-321 3210.
Map 3 C2. CHOCOLATE COFFEE
Tel 06-687 4651. SPECIALISTS Enoteca del SPECIALISTS
Corso
Fratelli Fabbi L’Albero del Cacao Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Antico Caffè del
Via della Croce 27. Via di Capo le Case 21. 293–295. Brasile
Map 4 F2. Map 12 F1. Map 11 A2. Via dei Serpenti 23.
Tel 06-679 0612. Tel 06-679 5771. Tel 06-6880 1594. Map 5 B4.
Tel 06-488 2319.
La Fromagerie Chocolat Ferrazza
Piazza Testaccio 35. Via della Dogana Vecchia Via dei Volsci 59. Tazza d’Oro
Map 8 D2. 12. Map 12 D3. Map 6 F4. Via degli Orfani 84.
Tel 06-5725 0185. Tel 06-6813 5545. Tel 06-490 506. Map 12 D4.
Tel 06-678 9792.
Roscioli La Fabbrica del ‘Gusto
Via dei Giubbonari 21. Cioccolato Piazza Augusto
Map 11 C4. Via San Francesco Imperatore 9.
Tel 06-687 5287. a Ripa 27. Map 7 C1. Map 4 F2.
Tel 06-5833 4043. Tel 06-322 6273.

352

Street Markets

Rome’s open-air markets are essential to visit if you are Mercato Andrea Doria
interested in soaking up the bubbling exuberance
and earthiness for which Romans are renowned. Via Andrea Doria. Map 3 B1.
They are wonderfully vivid experiences too, as Q Ottaviano S. Pietro.
Italian stallholders have raised the display @ 23, 70, 490. Open 7am–1.30pm
of even the humblest vegetable to an art form. Mon–Sat.

The city is dotted with popular, small local food The market used to stretch the
markets, and there are several fascinating well- whole length of this wide avenue.
established markets near the centre, along with the It has now been reorganized on
famous flea market over in Trastevere. to a huge square of open ground
between Via Santamaura and Via
It is important to keep your wits about you in Tunisi. Apart from the magnificent
markets because pickpockets work with lightning displays of fruit and vegetables, it
speed in the bustling crowds. But this said, Roman has numerous stalls selling meat,
markets provide a vibrant source of entertainment poultry, fish and groceries, as well
and it would be a shame to let such caveats deter as an interesting clothes and shoe
you from joining in. section. Situated northwest of the
Vatican Museums, it is a little off
The street fairs that take place throughout the year the normal beaten track and has
are fun to go to, if they coincide with your visit, as remained very much a Roman
they normally sell a good variety of local produce, market that caters for the needs
handicrafts and clothes. Seasonal fairs also occur, of the large local population.
especially around Christmas, when you can stock
up on Italian specialities. Nuovo Mercato
Esquilino
Campo de’ Fiori Mercato delle Stampe
Via Principe Amedeo. Map 6 E5.
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. Map 4 E4 & Largo della Fontanella di Borghese. Q Vittorio Emanuele. @ 105.
11 C4. @ 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, Map 4 F3 & 12 D1. @ 81, 116, Open 7am–2pm Mon–Sat.
116, 492, 628. v 8. Open 117, 492, 628. See p174.
Open 7am–1pm Mon–Sat.
7am–1.30pm Mon–Sat. See p146. Bustling Piaz za Vittorio was, until
This market is a veritable haven recently, perhaps the most Roman
Right in the heart of the old city, for lovers of old prints, books of the city’s larger markets.
Rome’s most picturesque market (both genuine antiquarian and
is also its most historical. Its name, less-exalted second-hand), maga- Now rechristened, it has moved
Campo de’ Fiori, which translates zines and other printed ephemera. to new covered premises, but it
as field of flowers, sometimes The quality varies, but it is a good is still the place where bargain-
misleads people into expecting a deal more specialized than the hunting popolari, Rome’s bustling
flower market. In fact the name is banche or stalls near Termini shoppers, buy their food. Stall-
said to derive from Campus Florae station which are a more obvious holders offer cheap prices if you
(Flora’s square) – Flora being the tourist trap. Italian-speaking buy by the kilo, but watch out
lover of the great Roman general collectors can enjoy a field day for bad fruit.
Pompey. A market has actually leafing through back issues of
been held in this beautiful piazza specialist magazines. Other visitors Lately it has become more
for many centuries. Every morn- might prefer the wonderful international and now features
ing, except Sunday, the piazza is selection of illustrated art books African and Asian food stalls
transformed by an array of stalls and old prints of Rome. It is a which cater to the area’s many
selling fruit and vegetables, meat, good place to pick up that Piranesi ethnic groups. Definitely a place
poultry and fish. One or two stalls print of your favourite Roman to go to to capture the atmosphere
specialize in pulses, rice, dried vista, ruin or church – but be of a traditional but changing city.
fruit and nuts and there are also prepared to bargain hard.
flower stalls situated near the Mercato di Testaccio
fountain. But the huge open Mercato dei Fiori
baskets of broccoli and spinach, Piazza Testaccio. Map 8 D3.
chopped vegetables and freshly Via Trionfale. Map 3 B1. Q Piramide. @ 23, 75, 280.
prepared green salad mixes are Q Ottaviano S. Pietro. @ 23, 51, v 3. Open 7.30am–1.30pm
the main attraction for visitors. 70, 490. Open 10.30am–1pm Tue. Mon–Sat.
They provide a real visual display
as well as an edible feast. Essentially a trade market, the The covered market at Testaccio
Flower Market, just north of Via occupies the central area of its
The excellent delicatessen shops Andrea Doria, is open to the eponymous piazza. The few cheap
on the square, and bread shops public only on Tuesdays. Housed clothing and shoe stalls skirting
nearby, complement the market. in a covered hall, it has two floors the outside are unremarkable, but
They make it a great place to brimming over with cut flowers the inside is well worth a visit.
stock up for an impromptu upstairs and all kinds of pot plants Lined with butchers, grocers and
picnic if the weather turns out on the lower floor. Anyone who fishmongers, the whole central
fine and you are tempted to do has an interest in flowers will area is given over to fruit and
some alfresco dining in one of enjoy this wonderful array of vegetables – a theatre-set array
Rome’s many parks. The market Mediterranean blooms, which of seductive colours and textures.
gets extremely busy on Saturdays, are on sale at giveaway prices. Very popular with local residents,
so be prepared to fight your way it offers super-fresh, high-quality
through the crowds. produce and reasonable prices.
Much of this market’s charm for
visitors lies in its compact size and
relaxed, friendly atmosphere.

SHOPS AND MARKETS 353

Porta Portese There is also a section that sells offers a charming splash of colour
military-style goods plus some in the heart of the city.
Via Portuense & Via Ippolito Nievo. camping and fishing equipment.
Map 7 C3. @ H, 23, 44, 75. v 3, Piazza San Cosimato (map 7 C1)
Some of these stalls move their in Trastevere hosts another lively
8. Open 6.30am–2pm Sun. wares to Porta Portese on a local market with some tempting
Sunday morning. cheeses and salami.
The mercato delle pulci or flea
market is a relatively new market Local markets There is a fairly big market
in Roman terms. Established on Via Alessandria (map 6 D1)
shortly after the end of World War Generally open 7am–1pm Mon–Sat. in Nomentana, and other smaller
II, it is said to have grown out of ones in Via della Pace (map 4
the thriving black market that Piazza delle Coppelle (map 4 F3 & E4 & 11 C3) near Piazza Navona,
operated at Tor di Nona opposite 12 D2), near the Pantheon, is prob- and in Via Balbo (map 5 C4)
Castel Sant’Angelo during those ably the most picturesque of the and Via Milazzo (map 6 E3)
lean years. Stallholders come from food markets sprinkled around the near Termini station.
as far away as Naples and set up city. A tiny market devoted
shop in the early hours of the to food and fruit and flowers, it All markets usually have at least
morning – if you are strolling in one stall selling household goods
that direction after a late night in STREET FAIRS and basic Italian kitchen gadgets.
Trastevere, it is well worth pausing
just to watch them. A special and interesting The utterly glamorous
feature of shopping in
Anything and everything seems Rome is the street fair: Spanish Steps Alta Moda
to be for sale, piled high on stalls Fashion Show is a fairly
in carefully arranged disorder – The Tevere Expo new event and does not
clothes, shoes, bags, luggage, exhibition starts each year have a set date. The limited
camping equipment, linen, towels, between mid-June and seating space is filled by
pots, pans, kitchen utensils, plants, mid-July on both sides of invitation only. However,
pets, spare parts, cassettes and the river bank between the the public can squeeze in
CDs, old LPs and 78s. Sant’Angelo and Cavour behind to enjoy this display
bridges. Its stalls display of all-Italian designer
Furniture stalls tend to be Italian regional arts and fashion. So far it has been
concentrated around Piazza crafts and also sell pasta, held mid- to late July.
Ippolito Nievo along with what jam, olive oil, wines and
they call “antiques”, though you liqueurs. Some items are The traditional Christmas
may have to sort through an awful cheaper than in the shops. Fair held in Piazza Navona
lot of junk before finding a real The exhibition opens in from mid-December until
one. And then you will have to the evening (6pm–1am). 6 January is now rather
bargain for it. The technique is to The entrance fee down-at-heel, but still fascin-
offer them half the asked price occasionally includes ferry ating for those who have
and then walk away. A lot of transport across the Tiber. not seen it before or for
people go just for the fun of it and children. Stalls selling clay
always end up buying something. There are two antiques statues for nativity scenes
fairs, both known as the and sweets that look like
There are also second-hand Fiera dell’Antiquariato, that pieces of coal are the
clothes – leather or sheepskin take place in Via dei main attraction.
coats and jackets go for €10 – Coronari. The first starts in
with many of the Via Sannio stall- the second half of May, Natale Oggi is a well-
holders relocating here for the 10am–1pm and 4–11pm established event taking
Sunday trade. In recent years daily. It makes a memorable place near Christmas at the
Porta Portese has become much event at night when lighted new Fiera di Roma in the
frequented by customers belong- torches line the carpeted Portuense district, and worth
ing to the various immigrant street. The second goes visiting to have a look at
groups in the capital. If you have along Via dell’Orso as well the Italian Christmas treats.
a Sunday morning to spare, a visit and normally occurs in mid-
to the market is now one of the October (but has also Via Giulia hosts art fairs
most cosmopolitan experiences started in late September), now and then, and open
that the city offers. Mon–Thu 3–11pm & evenings when the antique
Fri–Sun 10am–11pm. and art galleries stay open
Mercato di Via Sannio Stalls also sell leatherwork, late offering food and wine
jewellery and gifts. to all visitors.
Via Sannio. Map 9 C2. Q San
Giovanni. @ 16, 81, 87. Open The Via Margutta Art Every year Trastevere
Fair usually takes place hosts its very own carnival,
8am–1pm Mon–Fri, 8am–6pm Sat. around Christmas and in the Festa de Noantri, in
springtime. Set in one of late July, when Viale
In the 1960s and 1970s this the most charming and Trastevere is overrun with
used to be Italy’s answer to exclusive streets of the the typical porchetta stalls
Carnaby Street. Today, at first city, this is an event not (see p355), party lights, gift
glance, it seems not to have to be missed, although it stalls and people.
anything very special to offer – is more for browsing as
random stalls selling inexpensive prices are very high. The details given here
casual clothes, shoes, bags, belts, may change, so check the
jewellery, toys, kitchen utensils local listings, the tourist
and music cassettes. But towards office or ring the tourist
the end of the street there is a call centre (see p375).
large covered section which
extends back to the Aurelian Wall
(see p196) with many stalls
piled high with second-hand
clothes at very low prices for
those who like to rummage.

354 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME

There’s a particular excitement across the city. Unexpectedly, given
attached to Roman entertainment. the general shutdown among shops

Football and opera, for example, and restaurants, the summer

are both worth experiencing for remains Rome’s liveliest time

sheer atmosphere alone, whether for live music and other cul-

or not you are a fan. The jazz tural events. Rome’s graceful

scene is especially good with Renaissance squares, vast

international stars appearing parks, villa gardens, Classical

alongside local talent. And con- ruins and other open spaces

certs and films take on an host various major arts fes-

added dimension when per- tivals. If you prefer sport,

formances take place or want to try out some

b e n e a t h t h e s t a r s i n t h e Gregory Peck and Audrey Roman nightclubs, there’s
many open-air arenas spread Hepburn in Roman Holiday plenty on offer too.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION information can also be Stage at Caffè Latino (see pp358–9)
found on various websites.
A good source of information It is usually easier (and
about what’s on is Trovaro- Punctuality is not what Ital- also a bit cheaper) to get
ma, the weekly Thursday ians are renowned for, so tickets for the open-air sum-
supplement to La Repubblica don’t be surprised if events mer performances.
newspaper. It has a day-by- start later than advertised.
day rundown of what’s on The Teatro dell’Opera box
and where, and covers music, BOOKING TICKETS office (see p357) handles sales
exhibitions, theatre, cinemas, for both summer and winter
Booking in advance is not seasons, and they have a
Saxophonist at Alpheus (see p358) part of Italian lifestyle, though high-tech booking system,
this is slowly changing. Two with a computer which col-
guided tours, restaurants ticket agencies that will book our-codes unsold seats.
and children’s entertainment. tickets for some performances
The weekly listings magazine for you (for a small fee) are Tickets for most big rock
Roma c’è has an English Orbis and the Internet-based and jazz events can be
section and Time Out Ticketeria. Many theatres bought at Orbis and at
Roma makes occasional themselves do not accept larger record shops such
appearances. Daily newspa- telephone bookings – you as Ricordi.
pers like Il Messaggero, Il have to visit the box office in
Manifesto and La Repubblica person. They will charge you Remember that if you
usually list that evening’s a prevendita supple- are trying to get hold of a
entertainment. ment (about ticket for a particular
10 per cent of performance that has
The magazine Wanted in the normal already sold out, you
Rome, found at Via Veneto price) for any are extremely
newsagents or English book- tickets sold in unlikely to be
shops, provides less detailed advance. The price able to obtain
listings in English. Also of a theatre ticket one from
worth getting hold of is can be anything
L’Evento, available from the between €8 and €52. Member of
APT (see p375), which gives contemporary dance group
details in English of classical Tickets for classical Momix (see p357)
music, festivals, theatre and concerts are usually sold
exhibitions in the city and on the spot, and unofficial sources – there
surroundings. Up-to-date are sometimes for that are very few ticket touts in
night only, an Rome, except at major
arrangement that football matches such as
favours the important finals.
last-minute

decision to go. Opera is the
exception. Tickets are sold
months in advance, with just
a few held back until two
days before the performance.

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 355

REDUCED-PRICE TICKETS

Theatres and concert venues

tend not to offer discounts

directly, although there is a

centralized service (Sportello

Last Minute) offering up to 50

per cent off seats on the day

of performance.

Cinemas occasionally offer

people aged over 60 and

disabled people a 30 per cent

reduction on weekdays. Many

cinemas also have cheaper

ticket prices for weekday

afternoon screenings and for Summer night outdoor performance among Roman ruins

all shows on Wednesdays.

Some clubs offer reduc- OPEN-AIR listings in newspapers, maga-

tions: look out for due per ENTERTAINMENT zines or websites (see p354)

uno coupons in local bars or watch for posters around

that allow two people Open-air opera, cinema, the city for the most up-to-

entrance for the price of one. classical music and jazz date information. More tradi-

concerts fill the calendar tional is Trastevere’s

FACILITIES FOR THE from late June until the community festival, Festa de

DISABLED end of September. Noantri (see p59), with music,

These performances fireworks and processions.

Few Roman venues outdoors can be This religious festival begins

provide easy access wonderful, with on the Saturday after 16 July

for people with spectacular settings but celebrations continue into

restricted mobility, and enthusiastic August. The Festa dell’ Unità,

and any disabled audiences. Some run by the DS (the former

visitors and their of them are grand Communist Party), but not

companions are likely affairs, but small limited to politics, is generally

to find the lack of events may be held in September. The pro-

provision for them just as evocative gramme includes games,

very frustrating. – a guitar recital in stalls, food and drink.

The situation does the cloisters of Santa Finally, if you like your

improve a little in Maria della Pace entertainment less structured,

summer, however, Singers performing the (see p121), for do as the Romans do and

when a great many Barber of Seville example, or jazz take part in the passeggiata

performances in in the beautiful (early evening stroll) – the

the city are held at open-air gardens of Villa Celimontana city’s favourite spots are Piaz-

venues. The classical concerts (see p193). za Navona (see p120) and

held in the beautiful gardens Some cinemas roll back along Via del Corso.

of Villa Giulia (see pp262–3) their ceilings in summer for

have wheelchair access. open-air screenings, or else TICKET AGENCIES

For more general informa- move to outdoor arenas, and

tion on provision for disabled there are also annual open-air Box Office (Inside Feltrinelli)

people visiting Rome, see cinema festivals. The Cinepor- Galleria Alberto Sordi 31–35.

page 375. to along the Tiber and the Map 12 E2. Tel 06-679 4957.

Festival di Massenzio offer Classical music, rock, pop and jazz

films, food and small exhibi- concerts and some sporting events.

tions in July and August. The-

atre, too, moves outside in Orbis

summer. Greek and Roman Piazza dell’Esquilino 37.

plays are staged at Ostia Anti- Map 6 D4. Tel 06-474 4776.

ca (see p270) and other shows

take place at the Anfiteatro Sportello Last Minute

del Tasso (see p361). Via Bari 20. Map 6 F1 (near Piazza

Rome’s most important Salerno). Tel 06-4418 0212. Open

autumn performing arts 2–8pm Tue–Sat, noon–4pm Sun.

festival is RomaEuropa, with

occasional performances in USEFUL WEBSITES

the grounds of the Villa

Medici. There are other, www.helloticket.it

smaller festivals too, but times www.listicket.it

and venues change from year www.romaturismo.it

The Teatro dell’Opera (see p356) to year, so it is best to consult www.ticketeria.it

356 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Classical Music and Dance

Classical concerts take place in a surprising number between €15–€25, but seats
of venues: tickets for opera premières may be hard for an important concert at
to get, but soloists, groups or orchestras playing in Teatro dell’Opera may cost as
gardens, churches, villas or ancient ruins are more much as €80.
accessible. World-renowned soloists and orchestras
make appearances throughout the year; past visitors have The Associazione Musicale
included Luciano Pavarotti and Placido Domingo, the Romana, dedicated to Renais-
Berlin Philharmonic and prima ballerina Sylvie Guillem. sance and Baroque music,
organizes three annual festi-
Programmes are generally international in scope but vals in the Palazzo della
sometimes you will find a festival dedicated to one Cancelleria (see p149): the
of Italy’s own, like Palestrina, the great 16th-century Festival Internazionale di
master of polyphonic church music, or Arcangelo Cembalo (harpsichord festival)
Corelli, inventor of the Baroque concerto grosso. in March; Musica al Palazzo
in May; and the Festival
MUSIC IN CHURCHES Easter and the Christmas Internazionale di Organo in
festivities are a great time September. Classical music
One of Rome’s main attrac- for cheap and chilly concerts. fans should also watch out
tions for classical music is for performances by the
the rich repertoire in the city’s ORCHESTRAL, CHAMBER Orchestra di Roma e del
churches. Always sacred in AND CHORAL MUSIC Lazio at Teatro Argentina
theme (by decree of Pope or Teatro Valle (see p361).
John Paul II), music is mainly Without doubt, the arts
performed as concerts rather event of the decade was the It is always worth checking
than during services. opening of the new Renzo which musicians are due to
Piano-designed Parco della be playing at the Teatro
Programmes are posted Musica on the Via Flaminia Ghione, the Oratorio del
around the city and outside in spring 2002. Up to then Gonfalone and especially the
the churches. You will often the Auditorium Conciliazione
find very good musicians and the Teatro dell’Opera Aula Magna dell’ Università La
playing in the main churches, had been Rome’s two main Sapienza, which has
while the smaller, out-of-the- auditoriums, with their own one of the most innovative
way churches frequently have resident orchestras and choirs. programmes of classical
young musicians and amateur Both offer varied seasons that and contemporary music.
choirs as well. include visiting groups and
soloists from all over the OPEN-AIR
St Peter’s (see p230) hosts world. It remains to be seen SUMMER CONCERTS
one major RAI (national broad- how the Orchestra e Coro
casting company) concert on dell’Accademia di Santa In the summer music lovers
5 December attended by the Cecilia, formerly housed in can enjoy concerts in cloisters,
Pope and free for the general Via della Conciliazione, fares palazzo courtyards and an-
public. It has two established in its new home. cient ruins. Concerts can be
choirs. The Coro della one-offs or part of a festival
Cappella Giulia sing at the The season at the Teatro programme, regular fixtures
10.30am mass and 5pm Olimpico usually offers good or impromptu. Do as the
vespers on Sunday. The Coro chamber music, some orches- Romans do, wait until
della Cappella Sistina sing tral concerts and ballet with the last moment and keep
whenever the Pope celebrates at least one concert a week. an eye on the posters and
mass here, as on 29 June listings pages (see p354).
(St Peter and St Paul’s day). Although a variety of clas-
sical concerts take place at Open-air opera and dance
Important choral masses the Accademia Filarmonica once had their home in the
also take place on 25 January Romana, the emphasis is on Baths of Caracalla, but this
in San Paolo fuori le Mura chamber and choral music, venue is seldom used.
(see p267), when the Pope with an internationally Classical concerts are often
attends, on 24 June in San renowned series of concerts part of festivals like Roma-
Giovanni in Laterano (p182) running from mid-October to Europa (see p355) but there
and on 31 December at the mid-May. Performances take are also open-air festivals and
Gesù (pp114–5) where the Te place in the Sala Casella, concert series dedicated to
Deum is sung. The church of which seats around 180. classical music. Among the
Sant’Ignazio di Loyola (p106) more interesting is the
is another favourite venue for Ticket prices for classical Stagione Estiva dell’Orchestra
choral concerts. concerts depend a lot on dell’Accademia di Santa
performers and venue. The Cecilia held at the Ninfeo
Plainsong and Gregorian (nympheum) in the grounds
chant can be heard in Sant’ Auditorium del Foro Italico of Villa Giulia (see p263).
Anselmo (p204) every Sunday sells tickets for most concerts Also listed as the Concerti a
(Oct–Jul) at the 8.30am mass for under €15; a ticket for Villa Giulia, the concerts take
and 7.15pm vespers. the Teatro Olimpico costs place in July and tickets are
around €12.

TERTAINMENT IN ROME 357

The Associazione Musicale one-off concerts at the Aula than staging experimental
Romana organizes Serenate in Magna dell’Università La productions. Tickets range
Chiostro – a lively and varied Sapienza. The most interest- from €17 to €130.
programme of concerts during ing contemporary music
July in the cloisters of Santa festival is organized by the The Teatro dell’Opera
Maria della Pace (see p121) Nuova Consonanza in the moves outdoors in July and
with tickets at reasonable autumn. Modern Italian com- August to stage opera and
prices. The Concerti del posers are performed in the ballet in the ancient Baths of
Tempietto are a real summer Rassegna Nuova Musica Caracalla (see p197). Popular
treat with concerts held Italiana concert series two works by Verdi and Puccini
almost every evening from or three times a year. Also are performed, and although
July to September in the worth keeping an eye out for the acoustics are not perfect,
Area Archeologica del Teatro are performances by scholars the unique setting makes
di Marcello (see p151) or in of the French Academy at up for it.
the park of the Villa Torlonia. Villa Medici (see p135).
BALLET AND DANCE
Festival Villa Pamphilj in OPERA
Musica, in July, is a series of Opportunities to watch
concerts in the gardens of Italy and opera are to many ballet or contemporary dance
Villa Doria Pamphilj (see people synonymous. Critics are fairly limited in Rome.
p267). Programmes range will tell you (justifiably) that The opera house’s resident
from comic opera to jazz and Rome’s opera is not up to the company Corpo di Ballo del
20th-century classical music. standard of Milan’s La Scala Teatro dell’Opera di Roma
or Naples’s San Carlo. But performs the great classics
Brass bands can be heard that doesn’t mean it is not as well as Roland Petit-style
in the Pincio Gardens (see worth visiting – world-class modern choreographies.
p136) on Sunday mornings singers do appear here (see Performances are staged at
from the end of April until p40), mainly in premières or Teatro dell’Opera.
mid-July – they usually strike solo recitals. However you
up at around 10.30am. judge the quality of the per- Contemporary dance is best
formances, the surroundings seen during summer festivals
CONTEMPORARY MUSIC in which they take place are but foreign companies often
often incomparable. In sum- perform at Teatro Olimpico.
The Parco Della Musica and mer the visual spectacle of American modern dance
the Accademia Filarmonica Aida, say, performed in groups of the Moses Pendleton
Romana (usually at the Teatro the open air, is simply school – Pilobolus, Momix,
Olimpico) often include magnificent. ISO and Daniel Ezralow –
contemporary pieces in their are popular visitors. Teatro
programmes but these are The season starts late at del Vascello is another venue
less popular than the classical Teatro dell’Opera, between noted for its experimental
pieces and there is no set November and January. In dance performances.
venue with a regular contem- recent years programmes
porary programme. have concentrated on the In late summer and autumn,
great popular operas, rather entertaining performances
International names appear are organized during the
on festival programmes and at RomaEuropa Festival.

DIRECTORY

For information about Aula Magna Sant’Anselmo BALLET & DANCE
festivals and open-air dell’ Università Piazza Cavalieri
concerts, see Trovaroma La Sapienza di Malta 5. RomaEuropa Festival
or similar listings (see Piazzale Aldo Moro 5. Map 8 D2. Via XX Settembre 3.
pp354 & 375). Tel 06-361 0051. Tel 06-579 11. Tel 06-422 961.
www.concertiiuc.it www.romaeuropa.net
ORCHESTRAL, Teatro Ghione
CHAMBER AND Oratorio del Via delle Fornaci 37. Map 3 Teatro Olimpico
CHORAL MUSIC Gonfalone B4. Tel 06-637 2294. Piazza Gentile da
Via del Gonfalone 32A. www.ghione.it Fabriano 17.
Accademia Filar- Map 4 D4 & 11 A3. Tel 06-326 5991.
monica Romana Tel 06-687 5952. Teatro
Via Flaminia 118. Map 1 Olimpico Teatro dell’Opera
A1. Tel 06-320 1752. Parco della Musica Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1.
www.filarmonica romana.org. Viale de Coubertin 30. 17. Tel 06-326 5991. Map 5 C3.
Map 1 C2. Tel 06-4816 0255.
Auditorium Tel 06-8024 1281 OPERA
Conciliazione (for information); Teatro Vascello
Via della Conciliazione 4. Tel 19-910 9783 Teatro dell’Opera Via G Carini 72. Map 7 A2.
Map 3 C3. Tel 06-4425 (for credit card sales). Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. Tel 06-588 1021.
2303. www.auditorium www.auditorium.com Map 5 C3. www.teatrovascello.it
conciliazione.it Tel 06-4816 0255.

358

Rock, Jazz, Folk and World Music

Rome’s non-classical music scene is unpredictable and Oriente. Some of Rome’s
subject to vast seasonal changes, but there is a huge smaller venues, like Charity
variety of music at the many clubs and stadiums, with Cafè, also showcase formid-
visiting foreign and home-grown stars. Recent years able new talent.
have seen the emergence of many new Italian bands
who are well worth seeing. Summer months bring If you want to mix music
excellent open-air rock, jazz and world music festivals. with your meal, then try
‘Gusto, a slick pizzeria /
The music sections of Trovaroma, Time Out Roma restaurant in the city centre
or Roma c’è (see p354) give a good idea of what’s on, with live jazz performances
and ticket agencies at Orbis and Feltrinelli will have on most nights. If Creole
details of the latest tours. For smaller venues you might cuisine is more to your taste,
need to buy a tessera (monthly or annual membership then book a table in advance
card) costing anything from €2 to €11, which often at Alexanderplatz.
includes the entrance fee for smaller bands.
Local names to look out
ROCK MUSIC Locanda Atlantide, with for include pianist Antonello
its low entrance fee and Salis, who mingles jazz and
Big-name rock concerts are central location, is a place Caribbean rhythms, and
held in sports venues at the where many up-and-coming respected soul-singer Fulvio
Palalottomatica and the Roman bands and soloists Tomaino. Other leading lights
legendary Stadio Olimpico. cut their teeth. on the blues scene are
The Palladium and Testaccio’s Roberto Gatto and Maurizio
Villaggio Globale at the Discos often double as live Gianmarco, frequent visitors
Ex-Mattatoio (a converted music venues too, and so at Big Mama.
abattoir) are other large- check to see if there are any
scale venues for concerts mid-week surprises at Piper, The Roman summer abounds
and other events, while Mercati Generali or weekend in jazz. The principal event is
the new Parco della Musica concerts at the Circolo degli the Alexanderplatz Jazz Image
also hosts top acts. Entrance Artisti and the slightly more festival in June and July with
can cost above €25, but alternative Brancaleone. nightly al fresco performances
there are plenty of at the Villa Celimontana park,
opportunities for smaller JAZZ just behind the Colosseum.
pockets. If you’re in Rome Tickets cost around €8 and
for 1 May, join the crowds Rome’s taste for jazz has are available at the park itself.
at the massive open-air developed over the years as a Another important fixture is
concert which is usually result of visits from American the yearly Autumn Roma Jazz
held at Piazza San Giovanni. and other foreign musicians. Festival with big names from
Bands also play for free Miles Davis played one of the Italian and international
during the European Festival his last concerts here and jazz scene visiting the Parco
of Music celebrations on other jazz gurus such as Pat della Musica.
and around 21 June. For Metheny, Michael Brecker,
all mega-concerts it is Sonny Rollins and Joe FOLK MUSIC
always a good idea to turn Zawinul’s Syndicate are
up an hour or so before all frequent visitors. Since the sad demise of
the act gets under way to be Rome’s historic Folkstudio,
sure of a good place. On no account should there is no single venue for
aficionados miss a visit to folk aficionados in the city,
Not far from the Vatican, the recently inaugurated Casa though those prepared to
Fonclea and The Place are del Jazz. Top musicians also scour the listings may
also worth checking out. play at Alexanderplatz or uncover a country evening
La Palma, which also hosts at Four Green Fields, an
One of the city’s most short festivals. Trastevere’s interesting acoustic set at
interesting venues is Forte Big Mama club is one of the Caffè Latino or a soulful
Prenestino, a former prison city’s legendary addresses for soloist at Lettere Caffè.
taken over by squatters a important names, offering
few years ago and turned punters everything from trad Traditional Roman folk
into a social centre with a r’n’b to progressive jazz and music has been more or
characteristically alternative rock. It is also worth checking less reduced to tourist-
feel. It now hosts rock out what’s on at Gregory’s. diluted serenades at
concerts, debates and art Alpheus is unique in offering outdoor restaurants; besides,
exhibitions. In the centre separate concert halls and young locals tend to favour
of town is the enterprising interesting festivals featuring the folk music of other
Akab-Cave which usually high-quality ensembles. regions and countries.
has a season full of Otherwise check local listings Many bands from various
interesting rock and ethnic to see what’s on at Caffè parts of Italy, such as Mau
fixtures. Meanwhile, Latino or Caruso – Café de Mau and Agricantus, have
found success by drawing
on regional rhythms and
singing in dialect.

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 359

Italians’ love of all things Irish schools and sell-out tours the most popular feature of
also means that strains of the by the likes of Brazilian the many Roman Summer
fiddle and drum can be heard mega-star Caetano Veloso events, clocking up over
in many of the Irish pubs testify. Many venues offer one million ticket sales.
dotted throughout the city. opportunities to enjoy Latin
If you have to choose one, American music throughout If your tastes are more
then make it the Guinness- the year: Speedy Gonzales African, there’s also an
enriched Fiddler’s Elbow near offers Mexican food, salsa excellent June–July festival
Santa Maria Maggiore. and mixed, commercial fare, which takes place at Villa
while Arriba Arriba, a Ada, a large park north of
WORLD MUSIC newcomer to the scene, the city centre, where fans
serves up a choice menu of gather each evening to
As capital of a Latin country strictly spicy Latin rhythms. appreciate the talents of
which has strong links with Check too what’s on at names like Angelique Kidjo
other Mediterranean cultures, Café de Oriente in and South African pianist
Rome is a place where world Testaccio, where you can Abdullah Ibrahim.
music flourishes. Whether you enjoy a cocktail or two along
are looking for South with the predominantly World music is also well-
American salsa, African Cuban music. served at the aptly-named
rhythms or Arab cadences, Villaggio Globale. For a more
you are unlikely to be But it is summer when eclectic experience, try
disappointed. Latin American music really Lettere Caffè, Rome’s first
comes into its own. The literary café, which offers
Latin American music is no two-month Fiesta festival world music on Fridays with
passing fad, as the well- at the Ippodromo delle performances of anything
established festivals, dance- Capannelle has become by far from Australian aborigine
to Greek syrtaki sounds.

DIRECTORY

Akab-Cave Casa del Jazz Gregory’s Palladium
Via di Monte Testaccio 69. Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55. Via Gregoriana 54D. Piazza B. Romano 8 (to the
Map 8 D4. Map 9 A4. Map 5 A2. south of Stazione Ostiense).
Tel 06-5725 0585. Tel 06-4894 1208. Tel 06-679 6386. Tel 06-5706 7761.

Alexanderplatz Charity Cafè ‘Gusto La Palma
Via Ostia 9. Via Panisperna 68. Via della Frezza 23. Via dei Mirri 35 (to the
Map 3 B1. Map 5 C4. Map 4 F2. southeast of Stazione
Tel 06-3975 1877. Tel 06-4782 5881. Tel 06-322 6273. Tiburtina).
Tel 06-4359 9029.
Alpheus Circolo degli Artisti Ippodromo delle
Via del Commercio 36–8. Via Casilina Vecchia 42. Capannelle Palladium
Map 8 D5. Map 10 F1. Via Appia Nuova 1245 Piazza B. Romano 8 (to the
Tel 06-574 7826. Tel 06-7030 5684. (km 12). south of Stazione Ostiense).
Tel 06-718 3143. Tel 06-5706 7761.
Arriba Arriba Fiddler’s Elbow
Via delle Capannelle 104. Via dell’Olmata 43. Lettere Caffè Parco della Musica
Tel 06-721 3772. Map 6 D4. Via San Francesco Viale de Coubertin 15
Tel 06-487 2110. a Ripa 100. Map 1 C2.
Big Mama Map 7 C1. Tel 06-8024 1350.
Vicolo San Francesco Feltrinelli Tel 06-5833 4379. www.auditorium.com
a Ripa 18. Galleria Alberto Sordi
Map 7 C2. 31–35. Locanda Atlantide Speedy Gonzales
Tel 06-581 2551. Map 12 E2. Via dei Lucani 22B Via Libetta 13 (to the south
Tel 06-679 4957. (San Lorenzo district). of Stazione Ostiense).
Brancaleone Tel 06-4470 4540. Tel 06-5728 7338.
Via Levanna 11 (in Monte Fonclea
Sacro). Via Crescenzio 82A. Mercati Generali Stadio Olimpico
Tel 06-8200 4382. Map 3 C2. Via Ostiense 137 Viale dei Gladiatori (north-
Tel 06-689 6302. Map 8 E5 west of city centre, across
Caffè Latino Tel 06-5728 8717 the Tiber by Monte Mario).
Via di Monte Testaccio 96. Forte Prenestino
Map 8 D4. Via F. Delpino (east of city, Orbis The Place
Tel 06-5728 8556. along Via Prenestina). Piazza Esquilino 37. Via Alberico II 27.
Tel 06-2180 7855. Map 6 D4. Map 3 C2.
Caruso – Tel 06-474 4776. Tel 06-6830 7137.
Café de Oriente Four Green Fields
Via di Monte Testaccio 36. Via Morin 40. Palalottomatica Villaggio Globale
Map 8 D4. Map 3 B1. Piazzale dello Sport, Ex-Mattatoio, Lungotevere
Tel 06-574 5019. Tel 06-372 5091. EUR. Testaccio 2.
Tel 199 128 800. Map 8 D4.
Tel 06-575 7233.

360

Cinema and Theatre

Cinema-going is very popular in Rome, with around 40 often live music during the
films on show during the week. The recently inaugurated intervals. Cineporto takes
Casa del Cinema and high profile International Festival of place in the Parco della
Cinema reflect the city’s enduring love of the big screen. Farnesina nightly between
July and September, but
The great majority of Roman cinemas are prima Massenzio moves around
visione (first run) and show the latest international (see listings).
films in dubbed versions. The smaller art cinemas are
more likely to show subtitled versions of foreign films. Sci-fi enthusiasts should keep
an eye out for the Fantafestival
Theatre productions are performed in Italian whether (early June), a science fiction,
the plays are national classics or by foreign playwrights. fantasy and horror film festival.
The main theatres offer a selection by great Italian The Venezia a Roma event in
playwrights. There are also performances of traditional September gives film buffs
cabaret, avant-garde theatre and dance theatre. Theatre the chance to see movies
tickets cost between €8 and €50 and can be booked in presented at the summer
advance by visiting the theatre box office, or through Venice Film Festival.
the last-minute booking service (see p355).
The listings pages (see p354)
PRIMA VISIONE in the listings). Try the have details on retrospectives
Azzurro Scipioni (one of or avant-garde film seasons at
There are over 80 prima the few to be open through- the Azzurro Scipioni and the
visione cinemas in the city. out summer), Filmstudio or open-air arts festivals like
The best cinemas for decor Nanni Moretti’s Nuovo RomaEuropa (see p355) and
and comfort are the Fiamma Sacher. Some of the smaller Festa dell’Unità (see p355).
(two screens) and Barberini cinemas are called cine-clubs
(three screens). and require membership. MAINSTREAM THEATRE

Foreign films are usually The Palazzo delle The backbone of Rome’s
dubbed. Films in the original Esposizioni shows interesting theatrical repertoire are Luigi
language are shown at the series of international films Pirandello’s dramas and
Metropolitan (daily) and in the Sala Rossellini (prior comedies by 18th-century
on Mondays at the Nuovo booking is advised). Venetian Carlo Goldoni and
Olimpia and Alcazar. 20th-century Neapolitan
Cartoons and children’s Eduardo de Filippo. Major
Tickets for new films cost favourites are shown at foreign playwrights are also
around €7, but a few cinemas Dei Piccoli, while Il Labirinto performed from time to time.
listed as prima visione charge has three screens, each
less, namely Farnese and showing art-house releases. The best classic productions
Reale. Over 60s and disabled are staged at the Teatro
people are normally entitled ENGLISH-LANGUAGE Argentina, Teatro Quirino,
to a 30 per cent reduction on FILMS Teatro Valle, Teatro Eliseo and
weekdays. Tickets are reduced Teatro Piccolo Eliseo. Teatro
in many cinemas on weekday In addition to occasional Argentina is state-owned and
afternoons and on Wednesdays. undubbed showings of home of Rome’s permanent
Check the newspaper or British, American and Austral- theatre company. Its sister
listings such as Trovaroma or asian films in art cinemas and theatre, Teatro India, stages
Roma c’è for details (see p354). at the Nuovo Olimpia and more innovative works. The
Warner Village Moderno, the Quirino and Valle host
ART CINEMAS excellent Casa del Cinema has productions from other Italian
a policy of screening all films cities. The latter shows both
True film buffs flock to Rome in their original language. great Italian classics by
in October for the Internat- famous companies and lesser
ional Festival of Cinema with SUMMER CINEMA known modernist works.
events centering on the Parco Plays at the Quirino often
della Musica. Some Roman cinemas have feature famous Italian actors.
roll-back ceilings which are The Eliseo and Piccolo
There are two main types of in use during the summer, Eliseo are among the
art cinema in Rome: the cine- while the others close down. best private theatres.
clubs and the cinema d’essai. The Nuovo Sacher has an
Both are good if you’re outdoor arena. Rome also The newly re-vamped
interested in catching older has various summer cinema Ambra Jovinelli specializes in
classics and new foreign films festivals: Cineporto and comedy, including the best
as well as films by con- Massenzio to name but two. in Italian stand-up, while
temporary Italian directors. These show several films Teatro Vittoria goes in for
each night from 9pm until Noël Coward or Neil Simon.
The d’essai cinemas now the small hours, with food At Teatro Sistina you
and then show films in the and drinks on sale and can see musicals by visiting
original language (indicated foreign companies and shows
by v.o. for versione originale by popular Italian actors.

INMENT IN ROME 361

CONTEMPORARY THEATRE FOLK, CABARET AND OPEN-AIR THEATRE
PUPPET THEATRE
The home of contemporary The open-air summer theatre
theatre is the ever-dynamic Roman and Neapolitan folk season usually features Greek
Vascello, the Politecnico and, songs and cabaret can and Roman plays at Ostia
beyond these well-known be enjoyed in Trastevere’s Antica (see pp270–71).
names, in a host of small lively tourist-trade restaurants,
theatres, ingeniously rigged like Fantasie di Trastevere or The Anfiteatro Quercia del
up in cellars, garages, small Meo Patacca. Tasso in the Janiculum park
apartments or even tents. takes its name from the oak
Puppet theatre is another tree under which 16th-
The Colosseo hosts Roman tradition. Shows take century poet Tasso used to
some alternative fringe-type place early in the evening at sit. Comedy shows are staged
productions (known here weekends, and sometimes here in July to September,
as teatro off) while the during the week, at Teatro when the weather permits. In
Palladium, the Vascello and Verde, Teatro Mongiovino winter the company performs
the Politecnico tend to stage and the Puppet Theatre, at the Teatro Anfitrione.
works by contemporary where recitals will be in
authors and occasional avant- English if there is enough Nearby is a Neapolitan street
garde productions. Some of demand. In summer, travelling puppet theatre booth featuring
them, like the Orologio, also Neapolitan and Sicilian Pulcinella (the Italian original
put on foreign-language marionette companies give of Punch). Shows are usually
productions. one-off performances. on in the afternoons, with
morning shows on Sundays.

DIRECTORY

PRIMA VISIONE ART CINEMAS Teatro Eliseo Teatro Colosseo
Via Nazionale 183. Map Via Capo d’Africa 5A. Map
Alcazar Azzurro Scipioni 5 B4. Tel 06-488 2114. 9 A1. Tel 06-700 4932.
Via Card. Merry del Val 14. Via degli Scipioni 82. Map www.teatroeliseo.it
Map 7 C1. 3 C2. Tel 06-3973 7161. Teatro dell’Orologio
Tel 06-588 0099. Teatro India Via dei Filippini 17A. Map
Dei Piccoli Via L. Pierantoni 6. Map 7 11 B3. Tel 06-687 5550.
Barberini Viale della Pineta 15. Map C5. Tel 06-5530 0894.
Piazza Barberini 52. 5 B1. Tel 06-855 3485. Teatro Politecnico
Map 5 B3. Teatro Piccolo Via Tiepolo 13A. Map
Tel 06-482 7707. Filmstudio Eliseo 1 B3. Tel 06-321 9891.
Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1C. Via Nazionale 183. Map
Casa del Cinema Map 4 D4. 5 B4. Tel 06-488 2114. Teatro Vascello
Largo M. Mastroianni 1. Tel 06-6819 2987. Via G. Carini 72. Map 7
Map 5 B1. Teatro Quirino A2. Tel 06-588 1021.
Tel 06-423 601. Il Labirinto Via delle Vergini 7.
www.casadelcinema.it Via Pompeo Magno 27. Map 5 A4 & 12 F2. FOLK, CABARET,
Map 4 D1. Tel 06-679 4585. PUPPET THEATRE
Farnese Tel 06-321 6283. www.teatroquirino.it
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56. Fantasie di
Map 4 E5. Nuovo Sacher Teatro Sistina Trastevere
Tel 06-686 4395. Largo Ascianghi 1. Map 7 Via Sistina 129. Map 5 B2. Via S. Dorotea 6. Map 4
C2. Tel 06-581 8116. Tel 06-420 0711. D5. Tel 06-588 1671.
Fiamma
Via Bissolati 47. Palazzo delle Teatro Valle Meo Patacca
Map 5 C2. Esposizioni Via del Teatro Valle 21. P. dei Mercanti 30. Map
Tel 06-482 7100. Via Nazionale 194. Map 5 Map 4 F4 & 12 D3. 8 D1. Tel 06-581 6198.
B4. Tel 06-474 5903. Tel 06-6880 3794.
Metropolitan www.palaexpo.com www.teatrovalle.it Puppet Theatre
Via del Corso 7. Map 4 Piazza dei Satiri.
F1. Tel 06-320 0933. Parco della Musica Teatro Vittoria Tel 06-589 6201.
Viale de Coubertin 30. Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice
Nuovo Olimpia Map 1 C2. 8. Map 8 D3. Teatro Mongiovino
Via in Lucina 16. Map 12 Tel 06-8024 1281. Tel 06-574 0598. Via Genocchi 15.
E1. Tel 06-686 1068. www.romacinemafest.org Tel 06-513 9405.

Reale MAINSTREAM CONTEMPORARY Teatro Verde
Piazza Sonnino 7. THEATRE THEATRE Circonvall. Gianicolense 10.
Map 7 C1. Map 7 B4. Tel 06-588 2034.
Tel 06-5810 234. Ambra Jovinelli Palladium
Via G. Pepe 41. Map 6 E4. Piazza B. Romano 8 (south OPEN-AIR THEATRE
Warner Village Tel 06-4434 0262. of Stazione Ostiense).
Moderno Tel 06-5706 7761. Anfiteatro Quercia
Piazza della Repubblica 45. Teatro Argentina del Tasso
Map 5 C3. Largo Argentina 56. Map Teatro Anfitrione Passeggiata. del Gianicolo.
Tel 06-4777 9201. 4 F4. Tel 06-6880 4601. Via di San Saba 24. Map Map 3 C5.
www.teatrodiroma.it 8 E3. Tel 06-575 0827. Tel 06-575 0827.

362

Nightlife

Rome’s nightlife has never been as diverse or vibrant as Another landmark in the
it is today. Recent years have witnessed a sharp rise in centro storico (historic
the number of bar and club openings that cater for an centre), though for a more
ever more demanding clientele. Where once the choice well-to-do and fashion-
was limited to the Irish theme bars near Termini, the few conscious crowd, is the
well-established but crowded bars in the centre and the in-vogue Bar del Fico, not
hugely popular clubs in Testaccio, the capital now offers far from Piazza Navona. The
a wide range of options designed to satisfy all tastes and upmarket Antico Caffè della
budgets. Depending on your mood, head first for a Pace, is another popular
stylish pre-clubbing bar and then on to one of the choice for those who want to
centre’s exclusive clubs, or simply relax with friends see and be seen. Fluid, on
and a bottle of good wine in an earthy wine bar in Via del Governo Vecchio, is
one of the historic centre’sbreathtaking squares. much livelier and has made
For a memorable first stop, enjoy spectacular views its mark in the capital as the
with an apéritif from a rooftop terrace bar. perfect venue to get you in
the mood for late-night
On the downside, despite the greater number of clubbing. A few doors down
bars and clubs, prices have soared in Rome since the but really a world away, the
euro was introduced – today you can be charged up to comfortable and candlelit
€10 for a cocktail! For cheaper alternative nights out, Mimì e Cocò is a great place
away from the tourist traps, visit a bar in San Lorenzo. to relax (al fresco or inside)
and linger over subtle wines,
WHAT’S ON Instead of an entrance fee, served with a smile. Just off
some smaller clubs require a the top end of the same
As in any major city, Rome’s tessera, a monthly or yearly street, moving away from
nightlife is constantly evolving. membership card, which you Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, is
Roman club-goers are an can buy and fill out on the Giulio Passami l’Olio, a warm,
extremely varied group and spot. If you’re paying just to welcoming and animated
most clubs arrange different get through the door that night, enoteca, tucked away from
nights to appeal to the hold on to your entrance the usual passaggiate
diverse range of tastes – so it ticket as it usually entitles (promenade) routes. Closer to
is essential to keep up-to-date you to a free first drink (la Piazza di Spagna, the striking
on what’s happening by consumazione); your second interior and extensive choice
checking listings magazines could be expensive and cost of wines by the glass make
(see p354) that hit the as much as €15. the Antica Enoteca di Via della
newsstands every Thursday. Croce a favourite spot for wine
As a general rule, remember connoisseurs. Although it’s
Flyers for many nightclubs that all-male groups are rarely definitely not cheap, the bar
are handed out in some of welcome, and in some buffet is well worth sampling.
the busier squares in and exclusive clubs neither are
around the centre, such as unaccompanied men. Also, In Trastevere, too, the
Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza to enter any of the more romantic streets are full of
del Fico. They are also select venues you’ll need both tiny bars aimed at diverse
distributed inside the many an introduction from one of crowds. Find a table if you
pre-clubbing bars dotted the regulars and clothes that can outside Ombre Rosse in
around Testaccio such as Il aim to impress. the wonderful Piazza
Seme e La Foglia. Sant’Egidio and watch the
BARS world go by. If Ombre Rosse
PRACTICALITIES is too crowded, Caffè della
Despite increased competition, Scala, just a few minutes’
Preferred clubbing nights are especially from the revitalized walk away, is a good
Friday and Saturday, when rustic wine bar Il Nolano, La alternative. Other bars include
the cars and scooters of Vineria (see p328) in Campo Friends Art Café, which is a
revellers block the streets of de’ Fiori has maintained its perfect spot to enjoy a
the city centre. Queues at the cult status among Romans of refreshing, though expensive
most popular venues can be all ages and backgrounds for apéritif with complimentary
very long at peak entrance unpretentious, lively drinking but elaborate snacks. The
time (around midnight), so it at prices that will please. Just simple, but vintage, Bar San
is advisable to get there an around the corner, L’Angolo Callisto, just off Piazza Santa
hour or so earlier. However, Divino (see p328) is less well- Maria, draws strictly non-
if you are unable do so, and known, and consequently not conventional patrons.
don’t feel like waiting, try as bustling. It nonetheless
ringing up in advance and remains a perfect spot for Elsewhere in the city,
charming your way on to socializing over great wines the sophisticated Ferrazza
the guestlist. and heart-warming food. (see p351) in San Lorenzo,
serves up exceptional wines
for more sophisticated
customers, while the

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 363

monumental student bar Rive and unashamedly number of gay bars and clubs
Gauche does great business commercial; the stylish and their increasing
as the biggest pub in the popularity. While some are
area. The slick surf-bar Caruso – Café de Oriente exclusively gay, others attract
Duke’s in Parioli is slightly concentrates on Latin, a mixed clientele.
away from the centre, but is R&B and salsa sounds; the
worth it for star-spotting. cutting-edge Metaverso Across the river from the
Duke’s has tried to curb its hosts a whole range of centro storico in Trastevere
soaring popularity by closing DJs from funk to reggae, is the exclusive Il Giardino
on Saturday nights, but to while the multi-functional dei Ciliegi, a living-room-
no avail. It remains the Distillerie Clandestine is the style bar that specializes in
number one place to be place for eating, drinking, cocktails, a wide variety of
seen in north Rome. relaxing and dancing. Still teas, exciting salads and an
on the crest of the 70s excellent Sunday brunch –
Finally, and not just for revival wave is the trendy even on public holidays.
hopeless romantics, La Saponeria, while the Similarly relaxed, Bohémien
breathtaking views of Rome Jungle Club is a haven for in Monti is a favourite haunt
can be had at the lavish latterday goths. The original among artists, actors and
rooftop terrace bars at Hotel LinuXclub is a large place those who aspire to join
Eden (see p308), near Via taking inspiration from the their ranks. For livelier
Veneto, and the recently software of the same name, social drinking, head for
renamed Radisson SAS Hotel while at the alternative Coming Out, between
(see p305) near Termini. At Alpheus, you can drift San Giovanni and the
dusk, particularly after a between three rooms offering Colosseum, to mix with
sunny day, these stunning three completely different a less ostentatious crowd.
venues offer a great place DJ sets. Last but by no Nearby, the men-only bar
to start an unforgettable means least, the legendary Hangar continues to pack
evening out. Goa remains the champion them in.
of Roman clubs, attracting
CLUBS the best of Italian as well When it comes to
as international DJs. clubbing, the ever-growing
To brush shoulders with TV number of gay one-nighters
starlets and parliamentary At the top end of the in both alternative and
under-secretaries, head for scale in the centro storico, mainstream clubs in many
Gilda. Its glitzy dance-floor the sumptuous Supperclub ways present the best venues
and restaurant have made it is a treat for well-heeled for drinking and dancing
a favourite with the Roman Romans. The stunning until the early hours. Goa
jet set and hangers-on. The decor, international cuisine, just off Via Ostiense
famous Sixties nightclub, performance art, free regularly hosts gay nights –
Jackie O, has recently been massage service and namely Gorgeous every
revamped in lavish style, progressive sounds all Tuesday and the women-
with a lush interior and an combine to offer a very only Venus Rising once a
expensive eatery. In a similar exclusive evening’s month; Mucca Assassina
vein is the nearby Club 84, entertainment. Nearby, (quite literally “homicidal
where booking in advance is with a similar ethos, the cow”) pulls in the crowds
“strongly advised”. select La Maison attracts a every Friday at the monu-
slightly older crowd with its mental Qube in Tiburtino;
Alien is a safe option for less commercial music and Locanda Atlantide, in the
commercial music among elegant ambience. However, student quarter San Lorenzo,
Roman twenty-somethings, if you’re in the mood for a opens its doors to Madame
though Heaven is slightly mainstream alternative that Coq once a month; and the
funkier with its marked is free of charge and easier legendary Piper in north
preference for house. The to gain entry to, then head Rome hosts the occasional
more traditional disco is at for Anima where you can one-nighter at weekends.
its best at Piper, which dance – if you don’t mind These clubs are in addition
changes look each season being constantly jostled – to to the justly famous gay-
and organizes imaginative quality hip-hop and funk. friendly disco Alibi in
floor shows and other events. Testaccio with its explosive
There are a few disco-pubs Further afield, La Palma mix of house music and
in the city centre which offer in Tiburtino, though justly Seventies hits.
a compromise between a renowned as a top jazz
straightforward bar and an venue for live music, also Pride Week, a yearly
all-out club. Rock Castle Café hosts excellent DJ sets at event held at the end of
is one that is especially weekends. June/early July, is a time
worth noting. when gay Romans hit the
GAY SCENE streets for seven days of
In and around Testaccio, non-stop partying. The
the undisputed clubbing Rome is no longer the programme changes from
heart of Rome, you’ll find provincial backwater it once year to year, so it is wise
it difficult to decide which was. This is clearly reflected to consult listing magazines
club to visit. Akab is cool both in the rise in the for full details.

364

In summer, as with most compete with many of exhibitions, art house films –
clubs, Rome’s gay venues the capital’s swankier sometimes even in their
move outdoors in an attempt and established venues, original non-dubbed version –
to beat the heat. In recent others have continued to and book presentations. At
years, many of these have maintain their staunch weekends, it dedicates its
been hosted at Gay Village, anti-establishment stance. space primarily to club
a summer-long outdoor nights, covering a spectrum
beanfeast. This is yet another Top billing must go to of tastes from underground
indication that gay culture is Brancaleone in north Rome, sounds to reggae.
finally beginning which regularly features
to enter the mainstream progressive Italian and Further from the centre,
entertainment scene. international DJs for the the abandoned fort, Forte
very best in electronic and Prenestino, is a magical maze
CENTRI SOCIALI house tunes. This well-run of spooky rooms and endless
establishment is also home corridors and represents
Centri sociali or illegally to an organic café and shop, the most bizarre of Rome’s
occupied buildings that have superb art exhibitions and a social centre venues. Famous
been converted into centres cinema club. for its anti-establishment
for the arts and entertainment, Labour Day concert – the
give an alternative edge to In the heart of the Campo official and free rock concert
Rome’s vivacious nightlife de’ Fiori area and spread is held in Piazza San
and cultural scene. While over two floors, the Rialto- Giovanni in Laterano – it also
some centres are run profes- Sant’Ambrogio regularly holds theatre productions,
sionally and successfully organizes a multitude of film festivals and club nights
cultural events, including throughout the year for a
plays, dance productions,

DIRECTORY

BARS Ferrazza Ombre Rosse Anima
Via dei Volsci 59. Piazza Sant’Egidio 12. Via Santa Maria
L’Angolo Divino Map 6 F4. Map 7 C1. dell’Anima 57.
Via dei Balestrari 12–14. Tel 06-490 506. Tel 06-588 4155. Map 11 C3.
Map 11 C4. Tel 06-686 4021.
Tel 06-686 4413. Fluid Radisson SAS Hotel
Via del Governo Vecchio Via Filippo Turati 171. Caruso –
Antica Enoteca di 46/47. Map 6 D4. Café de Orient
Via della Croce Map 11 C3. Tel 06-444 841. Via di Monte
Via della Croce 76B. Tel 06-683 2361. Testaccio 36.
Map 4 F2. Rive Gauche Map 8 D4.
Tel 06-679 0896. Friends Art Café Via dei Sabelli 43. Tel 06-574 5019.
Piazza Trilussa 34. Map 6 F4.
Antico Caffè Map 4 E5. Tel 06-445 6722. Club 84
della Pace Tel 06-581 6111. Via Emilia 84.
Via della Pace 3–7. Il Seme e la Foglia Map 5 B2.
Map 11 C3. Giulio Passami Via Galvani 18. Tel 06-482 7538.
Tel 06-686 1216. l’Olio Map 8 D4.
Via di Monte Tel 06-574 3008. Distillerie
Bar del Fico Giordano 28. Clandestine
Piazza del Fico 26–28. Map 11 B2. La Vineria Via Libetta 13.
Map 11 B2. Tel 06-6880 3288. Campo de’ Fiori 15. Tel 06-5730 5102.
Tel 06-686 5205. Map 11 C4.
Tel 06-6880 3268. Gilda
Bar San Callisto Via Mario de’ Fiori 97.
Piazza San Callisto 3–4. Hotel Eden CLUBS Map 12 F1.
Map 7 C1. Via Ludovisi 49. Tel 06-678 4838.
Tel 06-583 5869. Map 5 B2. Akab
Tel 06-478 121. Via di Monte Testaccio 69. Goa
Caffè della Scala Map 8 D4. Via Libetta 13.
Via della Scala 4. Mimì e Cocò Tel 06-5725 0585. Tel 06-574 8277.
Map 7 C1. Via del Governo
Tel 06-580 3610. Vecchio 72. Alien Heaven
Map 11 C3. Via Velletri 13. Viale di Porta Ardeatina
Duke’s Tel 06-6821 0845. Map 6 D1. 119. Map 9 B5.
Viale Parioli 200. Tel 06-841 2212. Tel 06-574 3772.
Map 2 D1. Il Nolano
Tel 06-8066 2455. Campo de’ Fiori Alpheus Jackie O
11/12. Map 11 C4. Via del Commercio 36/8. Via Boncompagni 11.
Tel 06-687 9344. Map 8 D5. Map 5 B2.
Tel 06-574 7826. Tel 06-4288 5457.

365

young but alternative crowd. Fonclea and Arriba Arriba the coast from July through to
Closer to the centre, Villaggio (see p359) or Alpheus, all December – most notably in
Globale, situated on a vast pay homage to Latin Ostia and in Fregene,
area of open space at the American and world music, where the legendary Gilda
edge of Testaccio, has a very although Caffè Latino in On The Beach is a permanent
similar philosophy and range Testaccio is by far and away fixture.
of services. In summer, it the best place to check out
regularly hosts open-air at the weekend. AFTER HOURS
concerts, occasionally beat-
ing off the competition to CLUBBING IN SUMMER Most Roman clubs stay open
feature big name Italian until 2am or 3am. However,
bands such as Tiromancino. At the height of the night-owls may find one or
sweltering summer, when two dance havens that see
JAZZ, SALSA AND virtually everything closes in the dawn, especially
AFRICAN SOUNDS down in the capital, Art Cafè during the beach-party
in Villa Borghese stands out season. Before heading off to
Rome offers countless venues as the supreme club venue bed, you could join the other
for jazz, from trad and swing for the fun-loving, young die-hard clubbers for a final
to modern fusion (see p358). and hip. A number of floating drink at one of the city’s 24-
Several jazz and Latin venues open up on the Tiber hour bars, or else make for
American clubs combine live too, among which Baja – a one of the early-morning
music with dancing, eating chic, converted houseboat – bakers and feast on sweet
and drinking. For South is definitely one of the best. breakfast cornetti straight
American style music, Some of the bigger clubs hit from the oven.

DIRECTORY

Jungle Club Supperclub Locanda Atlantide Arriba Arriba
Via di Monte Testaccio 95. Via de’ Nari 14. Via dei Lucani 22B Via delle Capannelle 104.
Map 8 D4. Map 12 D3. (in San Lorenzo). Tel 06-721 3772.
Tel 380 416 1544. Tel 06-6880 7207. Tel 06-4470 4540.
Caffè Latino
LinuXclub GAY SCENE Piper Via di Monte
Via Libetta 15 see clubs Testaccio 96.
(to the south of Stazione Alibi Map 8 D4.
Ostiense, off Via Ostiense). Via di Monte Testaccio Qube Tel 06-5728 8556.
Tel 06-5725 0551. 39–44. Via di Portonaccio 212.
Map 8 D4. (north of the city centre). Fonclea
La Maison Tel 06-574 3448. Tel 06-438 5445. Via Crescenzio 82A.
Vicolo dei Granari 4. Map 3 C2.
Map 11 C3. Bohémien CENTRI SOCIALI Tel 06-689 6302.
Tel 06-683 3312. Via degli Zingari 36. www.fonclea.it
Map 5 C4. Brancaleone
Metaverso Via Levanna 11 CLUBBING IN
Via di Monte Coming Out (in Montesacro). SUMMER
Testaccio 38A. Via San Giovanni In Tel 06-8200 0959.
Map 8 D4. Laterano 8. Art Cafè
Tel 06-574 4712. Map 9 A1. Forte Prenestino Viale del Galoppatoio,
Tel 06-700 9871. Via F. Delpino 33 (Villa Borghese).
La Palma (in Prenestino). Map 5 A1.
Via Giuseppe Mirri 35. Gay Village Tel 06-2180 7855. Tel 06-3600 6578.
Tel 06-4359 9029. Phone or check website
for venue. Rialto- Baja
Piper Tel 06-554 2695. Sant’Ambrogio Ponte Margherita –
Via Tagliamento 9 www.gayvillage.it Via di Sant’Ambrogio 4. Lungotevere Arnaldo
(north of the city centre). Map 12 D5. da Brescia.
Tel 06-855 5398. Il Giardino dei Tel 06-6813 3640. Map 4 E1.
Ciliegi Tel 339-469 0588.
Rock Via dei Fienaroli 4. Villaggio Globale
Castle Café Tel 06-580 3423. Lungotevere Testaccio 2/ Gilda on the
Via B Cenci 8. Via di Monte Testaccio 22. Beach
Map 12 D5. Goa Map 7 4C. Lungomare di Ponente 11,
Tel 06-6880 7999. See clubs Tel 06-575 7233. Fregene.
Tel 06-6656 0649.
La Saponeria Hangar JAZZ, SALSA www.gildaonthebeach.it
Via degli Argonauti 20 Via InSelci 69. AND AFRICAN
(to the south of Stazione Map 5 C5. SOUNDS
Ostiense, off Via Ostiense). Tel 06-488 1397.
Tel 06-574 6999. Alpheus
See clubs.

366

Sport

Do not be surprised if the peace of a Sunday afternoon weekend when they host
in Rome is interrupted by the honking of cars and competitions, and when
people shouting. It simply means that one of the guests cannot play. Prices
home football teams has won at the stadium and range from €25–€65.
the whole city will vibrate with the excitement.
The Olgiata Golf Club is
Football is Italy’s national sport but other sports open to everybody from
also attract a large following and Roman sports fans Tuesday to Sunday, though it
are never at a loss for varied events and activities. is best to phone first if you
want to play at the weekend.
You will find times and venues for most spectator Country Club Castel Gandolfo
sports listed in Trovaroma or Roma c’è (see p354), is the newest club and Circolo
as well as the local sections of La Gazzetta dello Sport del Golf di Roma the oldest
or Corriere dello Sport. and most prestigious. Within
the city ring road is the course
FOOTBALL often essential to book at least at the Sheraton Golf Hotel
a week in advance and there (closed Tuesdays).
An Italian soccer match is an is usually a moderate court fee.
experience not to be missed One of the many important
for the quality of the play and Clubs where membership is competitions on the various
the fun atmosphere, though not required include Tennis golf courses around Rome is
hooliganism has begun to Club Nomentana and the the Circolo Golf Roma Coppa
raise its ugly head. Circolo Tennis Stampa in d’Oro (Gold Cup) in April.
northern Rome and the Oasi
Rome has two teams, di Pace, just off the Via Appia CAR AND MOTORBIKE
Roma and Lazio, and they Antica. The big hotels offer RACING
take it in turns to play at the tennis for a reasonable price.
Stadio Olimpico on a Sunday The Crowne Plaza requires Formula 1 and Formula 3
afternoon at 3pm, in the a small annual membership races take place on Sundays
Campionato Italiano (Italian fee on top of the court price, at Vallelunga; be prepared
championship league). which includes the gym and for some expensive entrance
the pool (in the summer). fees. Frequently on Saturdays
Seats can be scarce, so get official trials are open to
tickets in advance from the HORSE-RACING, TROTTING spectators, and on some non-
stadium (€15 to €80) from AND LEISURE-RIDING racing Sundays Italy’s car
noon onwards on the day designers show new models.
itself, or through club web- Important races include the
sites (www.sslazio.it and Derby in May and the Premio RUGBY
www.asroma.it). The cheapest Roma in November. There are
seats are in the Le Curve stand; trotting races at the Ippodromo Rugby has taken off in Italy
the middle-range and most di Tor di Valle and both flat recently, particularly since
expensive are in Le Gradinate races and steeplechases at the Italy joined the Six Nations
and La Tribuna respectively. Ippodromo delle Capannelle. tournament. This means that
in winter (usually Feb–Mar)
On Wednesday evenings The International Horse there are a couple of inter-
there may be international Show is held in May in Piazza national matches in Rome. The
competitions – the UEFA cup di Siena, Villa Borghese (see home team is drawn against
or the Coppa dei Campioni p258). It is organized by the two other member “nations”
(European Championship Federazione Italiana Sport each year: France, England,
Cup). In between these, Equestri (FISE) and is one Scotland, Ireland or Wales.
teams battle it out for the of the most important social
national Coppa Italia. and sporting events in the ROWING
calendar. The setting makes
TENNIS it a great attraction. In mid-June an Oxbridge
crew challenges the historic
A major event, the Inter- Through the FISE, it may be Aniene crew to a race taking
national Championships go on possible to find a riding club place alternately on the
at Foro Italico for two weeks in that will take you on a hack Thames and the Tiber. The
May. The world’s top tennis in the countryside around best place to view this from is
stars thrash it out on clay Rome, but most do not accept between the Margherita and
courts at 1pm and 8.30pm short-term members. the Sant’Angelo bridges. The
from Tuesday to Friday, and race usually starts at around
at 1pm only at weekends. GOLF 6pm. Another event is the
Buy tickets in advance either battle between the Roma and
directly from the Foro Italico Even the most elite golf clubs Lazio crews, from Ponte Duca
or from a ticket agency. will accept a touring golfer d’Aosta to Ponte Risorgimento,
with a home membership on the same variable date as
If you wish to play yourself, and handicap. Most clubs are the Roma-Lazio football derby.
there are now more than 350 shut on Mondays and at the
tennis clubs in Rome. It is

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 367

SWIMMING HEALTH CLUBS the more popular locations
looking more like a high-speed
Swimming pools are few and Like the swimming pools, fashion show than sweat
definitely not geared to the Roman health clubs usually tracks. Each March, however,
short-term visitor. It is often require both a membership more serious runners take
necessary to pay an expensive fee and monthly payments. part in the Rome Marathon.
membership plus a monthly For a short stay in Rome, it
tariff. Most pools also require is more sensible to try the Villa Doria Pamphilj (see
you to produce a medical facilities in your hotel, or, if p267) is an extensive park
certificate assuring your good you are willing to pay, head situated above the Janiculum,
health, and have lane-only for one of the private clubs. where you can choose from
swimming, so check to see if Use of club facilities may various tracks, plenty of open
free swimming (nuoto libero) well be negotiable. spaces and a network of paths.
is possible. The state-owned Villa Borghese (see p258) is
pools can be slightly cheaper, The Roman Sport Center another vast popular place
but you still have to pay an welcomes daily members for a with a running track.
initial membership fee. reasonable price (€26) and you
can use the swimming pools, Alternatively, jog under the
The Shangri-La Hotel opens the gym and the sauna. The acacia trees and palms at Villa
its pool to non-residents in the facilities are open 9am –10pm. Torlonia, on the spot-lit track
summer months, as does the Be sure to wear lycra, as at Villa Glori, or combine
Cavalieri Hilton Hotel, for a shorts made from other sport with culture by running
higher entrance fee. The best materials are not allowed. the Via Appia Antica (see
deal is on a Sunday when the p265) branching off into Parco
sports club and swimming JOGGING AND CYCLING Caffarella. Other favourite
pool La Margherita opens to places are Viale delle Terme
non-members 10am–1pm, for Rome’s perfect climate and di Caracalla, Circo Massimo,
a reasonable entrance charge. stunning scenery attract Parco degli Aquedotti and
Piscina delle Rose in EUR is thousands of well-dressed Parco di Colle Oppio.
an Olympic-sized pool open joggers and cyclists into the
from June to September city’s many parks. Early on All of the above are also
9am–5.30pm during the weekday mornings or at any ideal for cyclists, and you
week, 9am–7pm at weekends. time on a Sunday you’ll find can hire bikes from many
places including Collalti
and Treno e Scooter Rent.

DIRECTORY

FOOTBALL HORSE-RACING Sheraton Golf Hotel Piscina delle Rose
AND RIDING Viale Parco de’ Medici 165. Viale America 20.
Stadio Olimpico Tel 06-655 3477. Tel 06-592 6717. www.
Via Foro Italico. FISE www.golfclubpdm.it piscinadellerose.com
Tel 06-368 51. Viale Tiziano 74. Map 1
A1. Tel 06-3685 8326. MOTOR RACING Shangri-La Hotel
TENNIS www.fise.it Viale Algeria 141.
Vallelunga Tel 06-591 6441.
Circolo Tennis Ippodromo delle Autodromo di Roma,
Stampa Capannelle Via Cassia km 34.5. HEALTH CLUBS
Piazza Mancini 19. Via Appia Nuova 1255. Tel 06-901 550.
Map 1 A2. Tel 06-71 67 71. Roman Sport Center
Tel 06-323 2454. RUGBY Via del Galoppatoio 33.
Ippodromo Map 5 A1.
Crowne Plaza di Tor di Valle Federazione Tel 06-320 1667.
Via Aurelia Antica 415. Via del Mare km 9. Tel 06-5 Italiana Rugby
Tel 06-663 1572. 2 47 61. www.tordivalle.it Curva Nord, Stadio JOGGING AND
Olimpico, Viale dei CYCLING
Foro Italico GOLF Gladiatori.
Via delle Olimpiade. Tel 06-4521 3117. Collalti
Tel 06-3685 4140. Circolo del Golf www.federugby.it Via del Pellegrino 82. Map
http://ctforoitalico.coni.it di Roma 4 E4. Tel 06-6880 1084.
Via Appia Nuova 716A. SWIMMING
Oasi di Pace Tel 06-780 3407. Maratona di Roma
Via degli Eugenii 2. ARCA Swimming Tel 06-406 5064.
Tel 06-718 4550. Country Club Castel Club www. maratonadiroma.it
Gandolfo Via Monti Tiburtini 511.
Tennis Club Via di Santo Spirito 13, Tel 06-451 0552. Treno e Scooter Rent
Nomentana Castelgandolfo. Termini Station. Map 6
Viale Rousseau 124. Tel 06-931 2301. Cavalieri Hilton Hotel D3. Tel 06-4890 5823.
Tel 06-8680 1888. Via Cadlolo 101.
Olgiata Golf Club Tel 06-350 91. Via del Corso
Largo dell’Olgiata 15. www.cavalieri-hilton.it Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina.
Tel 06-3088 9141. Map 4 F3 & 12 E1.

368 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

CHILDREN’S ROME

Italians love having c Renaissance cherub art. The temptation may be
around, and you can from the wear yourself and your chil-
sure yours will be mad ren out by packing too many
welcome wherever they Villa Farnesina ghts into one day. Plan in
go. But there are few spe- vance and leave plenty of
cial facilities for children, e to wander around the city:
the heat, crowds and lack ing at the quirkier fountains
public loos mean that Ro nd monuments, watching
an ideal city for a holiday ife-grinders at work in the
or under-sevens. It doe s, and spending hours ago-
have plenty to offer slig izing over the choice of ice-
older children, especially cream flavours and special
those who are keen on history pizza toppings.

PRACTICAL ADVICE If lingering over

drinks on the café

If you are planning to bring terraces is what

your children to Rome, try to you enjoy best,

come in early spring or late bring your off-

autumn, when the weather is spring something

good, but not too hot. Easter to keep them busy

is best avoided, as the city is once they have

more crowded than usual, finished with their

and you’re constantly jostled treat: crayons and

on packed buses and paper, a computer

streets. Where you stay game or a Walk-

is crucial. A hotel near man. Alternatively,

the Villa Borghese most other adults

park will give your are very tolerant

children plenty of of children

chance to relax running around

and let off steam, and making a Fairground in the Villa Borghese park

though you may end noise while they

up spending a lot of relax and, if yours are reason- GETTING AROUND

time and money to get ably outgoing, they could join

to and from the town in with the local children Bumpy cobbles, narrow streets

centre. A hotel in the playing ball games in early without pavements and over-

old centre is ideal, as evenings on piazzas like crowded buses make pushing

you can easily pop back Campo de’ Fiori. children around in pushchairs

during the day If you feel the need for a tiring work. Mothers with

Jogging in for a rest and a total break, most hotels will young children are, however,

Villa Borghese clean bathroom. be able to provide a baby- usually allowed to jump

As hygienic sitter or help you to contact a queues. Outside rush hours,

toilets and changing facilities qualified childminding agency. the Metro is often less busy.

are rare within the city, it is In the event of bad luck, Kids under 1 m (3 ft 3 in) tall

really not advisable to bring a see pages 376–7 for informa- travel free on public transport.

baby to Rome unless you are tion on what to do and a list Although the city is not good

visiting friends or family. As of emergency numbers. for cyclists, families with older

with many historic children could hire bikes to

cities, Rome may not ride along the Tiber on the

instantly appeal to all cycle tracks to the north of the

children, but there is city, or to take on a regional

plenty to inspire their train into the country. The

imaginations. Use this bikes, tandems and rickshaws

book to make the for hire in Villa Borghese

buildings and history are good fun, and the bike

come alive. Children hire hut in the Pincio gardens

might also enjoy has free baby seats.

learning a few Italian Anyone over the age of 14

words and phrases so is permitted to ride a scooter

they can order food under 50 cc, although Rome

and buy things by is not the best place for

themselves. A hire bike with free baby seat novices (see p394).

CHILDREN’S ROME 369

Pony-pulled trains in the Villa Borghese park Water from the
drinking fountains is
EATING OUT that prosciutto, which is potable, so it is worth
usually translated in menus as carrying plastic cups
Children are normally warmly ham, is cured). The most around with you.
welcomed in neighbourhood entertaining pizzerias for kids
pizzerias and trattorias, and are the old-fashioned ones As well as picnic
high chairs are often available where they can watch the food from bakeries
for toddlers and babies. If chefs pound, stretch and flip and markets, there are
there is no high chair, be the pizza dough. Restaurants lots of scrumptious
prepared for the waiters open in the evening at or takeaway foods. Many
to improvise for you with soon after 7pm and the best of them are appealingly
armloads of cushions or places get busy from around messy, so it is wise to
telephone directories. Most 8.30pm, so it is wise to go take paper tissues. Try
places are perfectly happy to early to avoid having to queue. deep-fried fruit and
serve half portions, or to let vegetables from Cose
children share meals. PICNICS Fritte on Via di Ripetta
and supplì al telefono,
In trattorias it can sometimes Picnics in the parks are ideal, rice croquettes with a gooey
be difficult to be exactly sure and shopping for the food is string of mozzarella inside,
what a certain dish contains often half the fun. There is no from pizza al taglio or pizza
(especially when there is no problem finding small cartons rustica outlets. A tramezzino
menu and the dishes of the of fruit juice and branded comes quite close to an
day are reeled off, usually at canned drinks, but these are English sandwich and if your
top speed, by the waiter), so expensive unless you go to a kids are miserable without
faddy eaters are likely to be supermarket – the branch of Marmite, you can find it
happier in pizzerias (see Oviesse on Viale Trastevere (and other foreign foods) at
pp328–33). Here they can Castroni on Via Cola di Rienzo.
choose their own topping is the most
convenient. Feeding pigeons on Piazza Navona
(remember

ICE CREAM

Investigating some of the hundreds of Rome, of course, is famous
Italian ice-cream flavours for ice cream; you and your
children are likely to be
tempted at every turn. Real
ice-cream fans may even
want to plan their day’s sight-
seeing round one of the best
gelaterie (see pp330–33). It is
far cheaper to buy either a
cone or tub of ice cream to
eat in the street, but in some
of the more traditional places
it is worth paying to sit down.
At Fassi, they have an old-
fashioned ice cream-making
machine on display and at
Giolitti, you can enjoy gar-
gantuan sundaes in the ele-
gant parlour (see p109).

370 T R AV E L L E R ’ S N E E D S

Sightseeing with Children ANCIENT RUINS

The ancient ruins best
appreciated by children are
the Colosseum (see pp92–5),
and Trajan’s Markets (see pp
88–9). You can still make out
what both these buildings
looked like from their remains.
The scant ruins of the Forum
and Palatine, on the other
hand, may not appeal so
strongly. Ostia Antica, where
the remains include a theatre,
shop and 20-seater public
toilet, is much more likely to
interest them (see pp270–71).

Entrance to the Villa Borghese Zoo

GENERAL TIPS as the fake dome of Sant’ Mosaic from the Vatican
Ignazio di Loyola (see p106).
Rome does not have many MOSAICS
museums with the sort of Museums your children will
hands-on exhibits that many enjoy include Museo Explora, There are scores of vivid,
other cities lay on for children. full of interesting hands-on sometimes quirky, mosaics in
However, Bernini’s marble exhibits for children, and buildings all over Rome.
elephant (see p108) and the the Museo delle Mura, which Many of these are particularly
fat facchino, or porter (p107), explores the length of the appealing to children. Details
appeal to kids. The Capuchin Aurelian Wall (p196). Among in the mosaics range from
cemetery at Santa Maria della the churches, St Peter’s (see brilliantly coloured flowers,
Concezione (p254), the cata- p230) and San Clemente (see leaves, animals and buildings
combs (pp264–6) and the pp186–7) are most fun. (in the churches of San
Mamertine Prison (p91) will Clemente, Santa Prassede and
grab the more ghoulish imagi- At the Vatican children will Santa Maria in Trastevere, see
nations, and children will like the animal statues and p186, p171 and pp212–13)
enjoy putting their hands into mosaics in the Animal Gallery to the debris of a banquet (in
the Bocca della Verità (p202). and also the Sistine Ceiling the Vatican’s Museo Gregorio
(p246), especially once they Profano, see pp234–5).
Look for details like the know that Michelangelo had to
dirty toenails on figures in paint it hunched up on a scaf-
Caravaggio’s paintings, the folding platform. Remember
Etruscan votives, which were that Vatican dress etiquette
offered to the gods, at the (see p231) applies to kids too.
Villa Giulia (pp262–3), and
the illusory collapsing ceiling Museo Explora
in the Chiesa Nuova as well
Via Flamino 82. Map 1 C5. Tel 06-361

3776 (book ahead). www.mdbr.it

Model trains in Villa Borghese

CHILDREN’S ROME 371

ENTERTAINMENT

To find out what’s on for Stall at the Christmas toy fair on Piazza Navona
children in Rome, scour
the cinema pages of the
newpapers and the listings in
Trovaroma, Roma c’è, Wanted
in Rome and entertainment
websites (see pp354–5). For
older children, Time Elevator,
presents 3,000 years of Rome’s
history in an educational yet
entertaining way. Most theatres
and cinemas have reduced
entry fees for children, but
shows are often only in Italian.

There are cartoons shown at
Villa Borghese’s Cinema dei
Piccoli and traditional puppet
shows every afternoon, except
Wednesday, on Janiculum hill.

An appealing time for
children to be in Rome is over
Christmas, when Piazza
Navona
hosts

Resting PARKS Children can clamber over its
on the kerb side giant stone monsters.
Villa Borghese (see p258)
a Christmas toy fair, where has rowing boats to hire; TOYS
stalls sell toys and sweets. pony-cart rides; bikes to rent;
a mini cinema; a small funfair; A visit to a Roman toyshop
Time Elevator and a zoo. Villa Celimontana can be a lot of fun. Città del
Via SS Apostoli 20. Map 5 A4 & (see p193) has bike trails, and Sole sells educational toys
12 F3. Tel 06-9774 6243. open-air theatre performances and games, while Al Sogno
in the summer. The old- is a dream come true for kids
fashioned amusement park who love stuffed animals.
LUNEUR at EUR (see p266) can
be good fun. Also in EUR is the Città del Sole
Piscina delle Rose, a swimming Via della Scrofa 65. Map 4 F3 & 12
pool open in the summer (see D2. Tel 06-687 5404.
p367). The Bomarzo Monster
Park, 95 km (60 miles) north Al Sogno
of Rome, was built in the Piazza Navona 53. Map 4 E4 & 11
16th century for a mad duke. C3. Tel 06-686 4198.

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES Lavori Artigianali Femminili
sells handmade silk and wool
Italians adore dressing their clothes for children up to eight.
children up, and on Sunday Rachele offers top-quality
afternoons in particular, you handmade clothes for children,
are likely to encounter while Benetton has more
young children dressed as if wallet-friendly smart casuals.
they had walked straight
out of a costume drama: Benetton
girls in frills and flounces Via del Corso 422. Map 4 F2.
and boys in velvet breeches Tel 06-6810 2520.
or knee-length shorts.
Lavori Artigianali Femminili
Many shops sell beautifully Via Capo le Case 6. Map 5 A3 & 12 F1.
hand-crafted children’s shoes Tel 06-679 2992.
and clothes – the downside
is that they can often be Rachele
expensive and impractical: Vicolo del Bollo 6-7 (off Via del Pelle-
dry-clean-only clothes are grino). Map 11 C4. Tel 06-686 4975.
common and shoes are not
made for mud.



SURVIVAL
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 374383
GETTING TO ROME 384389

GETTING AROUND ROME 390395

374 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Romans often seem unconcerned museums are open in the mornings
by the priceless art treasures and only. Bank and shop hours can be just
ancient ruins which lie casually as difficult to pin down. On a more pos-
among the buildings and workings of itive note, many of the main sights are
their hectic 20th-century city. Visitors within easy walking distance of one
nearly always find these wonders very another. Start your day early and wear
exciting, but it is not always easy to comfortable shoes for the Roman
make the most of them. Relaxed local cobblestones. It can be a delightfully
attitudes make for hundreds of varia- informal city to visit, but remember to
tions in opening hours. Many places observe dress rules to cover up in
close for several hours over lunch and churches, since this is one area where
reopen in the late afternoon; some the Italians are very strict.

MUSEUMS AND
MONUMENTS

Many museums are now open

all day, although most close

on Mondays. If you are parti-

cularly keen to see a specific

monument or museum, make

sure it is open before you set

out. Many museums don’t

allow visitors to enter in the

last hour or half an hour before

they close. There is usually an

admission fee

for museums,

so it may be

worth buying Typical traffic congestion in Via delle Quattro Fontane

the €18 Roma

Pass, a three- TOURIST INFORMATION such as CIT or the American

day card which Express office can also be

allows free Pick up details of special helpful to visitors. A privately-

transport within tours at the main tourist office run company called Enjoy

Rome and free (APT). APT will also help Rome has an informative

Roma c’è, a entrance to with accommodation (see website and offices situated

listings guide principal p295). Information conveniently close to

to the city museums and kiosks run by the Termini station

archaeological Comune di Roma (see p388).

sites. Many museums offer have English- A word of

a reduced entrance fee for speaking staff warning: prices

children under 18, students providing free and opening

with the appropriate ID and maps, leaflets and times change often

senior citizens from the advice. Or ring the Rome ENIT logo and sights can be closed

European Union. City Council Tourist for what seem to be

Entrance to all churches Information Call Center for unbelievably long periods of

is free, and many contain information in English. restoration (chiuso per

extraordinary works of art. Besides the official tourist restauro) or because of a

Some of Rome’s sights, such offices, good travel agents strike (sciopero).

as Nero’s Aqueduct or the

gardens at the Vatican, are

accessible only on personal

application or by written

appointment.

The Area by Area section of

this guide gives opening times

for each sight and tells you

whether there is an admission

charge. A useful booklet

called Roma c’è, gives up-

to-date details of current

exhibitions at Rome’s main

museums and galleries. An electric minibus: useful for the historic centre

Heav traffic in Via delle Quattro Fontane

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 375

ENTERTAINMENT Unacceptable dress in church: both tour, or contact an
INFORMATION organization for disabled
sexes should cover torsos, upper travellers before you set off.
The weekly Trovaroma, The Vatican Museums, Sistine
in the Thursday edition of arms and legs Chapel and St Peter’s are all
La Repubblica, and Roma c’è, accessible by wheelchair. The
published on Wednesdays, ETIQUETTE Vatican Museums recently
received an EU award for
are the main guides Romans are generally cour- improving accessibility, and
to what’s on. teous and friendly to foreign staff offer help if needed.
English listings visitors. Italians are delighted
are also in Wanted at any effort to speak their WCS
in Rome. Full language, so it is worth learn-
entertainment ing a few phrases (see p447). Public toilets are few and
information can be Italians tend to drink only far between. There are clean
Trovaroma found on page 354. with meals and are unlikely ones by the Colosseum (with
to be seen drunk – obvious facilities for the disabled), at
GUIDED TOURS drunkenness is frowned St Peter’s and in the Rinascente
upon. Smoking is banned store (see p335). Most cafés
Several companies offer tours on public transport and in let you use theirs if you ask.
in English; these include restaurants, bars and cafés. Take your own paper.
American Express, Green Line
Tours, Carrani Tours and Rome TIPPING USEFUL ADDRESSES
Revealed Tours. Full-day city
tours including lunch cost Foreigners are expected to American Express
around €75; half-day tours tip, although Italians them- Piazza di Spagna 38.
around €30. Alternatively the selves don’t always do so. Map 5 A2.
No. 110 bus passes many of Leave a few coins in bars or Tel 06-676 41.
the main sights on a 2-hour cafés; in restaurants where
circuit. The journey costs service is not included, leave APT
around €8 and leaves from around 10 per cent. Keep Via Parigi 5d. Map 5 C3.
Termini every 10 to 15 min- change handy for taxi Open 9am– 7pm Mon–Sat.
utes between 8.40am and drivers, sacristans, chamber- Tel 06-488 991.
8.30pm; the website has fur- maids, doormen and porters.
ther details as well as infor- Carrani Tours
mation on the Archeobus ROME FOR THE DISABLED Via V. E. Orlando 95. Map 5 C3.
tours of the ancient monu- Tel 06-488 0510.
ments. Tour guides can often Rome is not particularly
be hired at major sights, such well organized to cater for Disabled Customer
as the Roman Forum (see the disabled. The Disabled Assistance
pp78–87). Employ only Customer Assistance centre at Termini station. Map 6 D3.
official guides and establish Termini station offers help and Tel 199-30 30 60.
the fee in advance; they advice on train travel. Ramps, Open 7am–9pm dail.
charge around €50 for a half- lifts and modified WCs exist
day tour. in an increasing number of Enjo Rome
places, including Termini Via Marghera 8A. Map 6 E3.
ATAC, the Rome bus company station and the Colosseum. Tel 06-445 1843. Open 8.30am–7pm
Some restaurants have wheel- Mon–Fri, 8.30am–2pm Sat.
VISITING CHURCHES chair access to the dining www.enjorome.com
area but not to the WC. If
Many of Italy’s churches are you have no escort, consider Green Line Tours
very dark, but they usually a specially designed package Via Farini 5A. Map 6 D4.
have electric, coin-operated Tel 06-482 7480.
light meters to illuminate www.greenlinetours.com
chapels and works of art.
Recorded information in No. 110 bus
several languages is also Piazza dei Cinquecento.
often available. Dress codes Map 6 D3. Tel 06-4695 2252.
are firmly upheld in churches www.trambusopen.com
and should be respected; St
Peter’s (see pp230–33) is Rome City Council Tourist
especially strict – you cannot Information Call Center
wear shorts. Tel 06-8205 9127.
www.romaturismo.it

Rome Revealed Tours
Tel 349-740 3269.
www.romerevealed.com

376 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health

On the whole, Rome is a safe, unthreatening place for Pharmacy sign
visitors, but petty street crime is a problem. Do not carry
more money than needed for the day and leave other
valuables or documents in a hotel safe. Cameras are
less likely to be snatched if they are in a carrier bag
rather than an obvious case. Take particular care in
crowded places, such as stations, or on full buses,
and steer clear of bands of innocent-looking children –
they may be skilful professional pickpockets.

ADVICE FOR VISITORS Mounted police Thefts from cars are also rife.
Jacket or bags should never
Take out adequate property strapped shoulder bag. Equip- be left visible inside a car on
insurance before you travel ment like video cameras should Rome’s streets, and do not
(it is difficult to arrange once be disguised. Pickpockets carry luggage on a roof rack.
you are in Italy), and look (sometimes children) adopt The streets to the east and
after your belongings while highly sophisticated distrac- south of Termini station and
you are in Rome. Some hotels tion techniques with pieces of around the Colosseum are
have personal safes in the card or newspaper while they well-known for prostitution
bedrooms. You can set these sever you from your posses- and drug-peddling, and are
with your own memorable sions in seconds. Take extra unsavoury at night.
number. (Do not use your care of your valuables in
date of birth; it is on your market places or on public Women travelling alone (or
passport and registration slip.) transport. Bus route No. 64, even in small groups) may
To be prepared for all which runs between Termini need to take extra care. Italian
eventualities, keep a separate station and the Vatican, is society is male-dominated,
photocopy of vital documents, notorious for pickpockets. and women who are out
such as your passport and air without male escorts attract
tickets, to minimize the more attention than they do
problem of replacing them, in much of the rest of Europe
and take a spare photograph and North America.
or two. Travellers’ cheques
are the safest way to carry Beware of unauthorized
large amounts of cash. Keep minicab drivers who are
the receipts separate from probably not insured and
the cheques for a refund frequently overcharge. They
in case they do go missing. operate in particular near the

Be wary of bag-snatchers airport, waiting
on mopeds who operate in to profit from
quiet streets. Carry your bag
at your side away from the
road, or a discreet money belt
or a securely fastened, long-

Distinctive carabinieri Carabiniere – a member of Carabiniere in traffic Municipal policeman
motorcycle the military police police uniform directing traffic

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 377

new arrivals. Hotel Police car Policlinico Umberto I
touts and unofficial Viale del Policlinico 155. Map 6 F2.
tour guides are also Tel 06-499 71.
best avoided; instead
stick to the official Rome American Hospital
tourist agencies (see Via Emilio Longoni 69. Tel 06-225 51.
p295 and pp374–5).
Vatican Pharmacy
POLICE Via di Porta Angelica. Map 3 C2.
Tel 06-6989 0561.

The vigili urbani, LOST PROPERTY

or municipal police, For items lost on a bus or
Metro, contact the numbers
wear blue uniforms in below. Otherwise, ask at a
police station. To make an
winter and white in insurance claim, report your
loss to a police station and get
summer, and can a signed form. For lost pass-
ports, contact your embassy
most often be seen or consulate; for lost trav-
ellers’ cheques, the issuing
regulating traffic. The Green cross ambulance company’s office (see p378).

carabinieri are the Commissariato di Polizia

military police, in red Lost Property (buses, trams)
Via N. Bettoni 1. Map 7 C4.
striped trousers. They Tel 06-581 6040. Open 8.30am–
1pm Mon–Fri (also 3–5pm Tue).
deal with everything Lost Property (Metro)
Line A Tel 06-487 4309. Open
from fine-art thefts to 9.30am–12.30pm Mon, Wed, Fri.
Line B Tel 06-5753 2265. Open
speeding offences. La 8am–6pm Mon–Sat.

polizia (state police) EMERGENCIES

wear blue uniforms Ambulance
Tel 118 (free from any telephone).
with white belts and Italian fire engine Automobile Club d’Italia
Tel 803116.
berets. Any of these Fire
Tel 115 (free from any telephone).
should be able to help you. All visitors should take out General SOS
Tel 113 (free from any telephone).
insurance to cover everything, Police
Tel 112 (Carabinieri); 113 (Police)
MEDICAL MATTERS including emergencies. (free from any telephone)
Samaritans
For urgent medical attention, Tel 800-860 022.
Line open 1–10pm daily.
No inoculations are needed contact the First Aid (Pronto Traffic Police
Tel 06-676 91.
for Rome, but take mosquito Soccorso) department of a main

repellent and sun screen in hospital such as Policlinico

the summer. The Tiber is Umberto I, Ospedale San

polluted but the water from Giacomo or Ospedale

taps and street fountains is Fatebenefratelli, or check the

piped straight from the hills, Yellow Pages (Pagine Gialle)

and is fresh and palatable. EU for a doctor (medico) or dentist

residents are officially entitled (dentista). For children, the

to reciprocal medical care, but Ospedale Pediatrico Bambino

the bureaucracy involved can Gesù is renowned.

be daunting. Before you travel, English-speaking doctors can

make sure you obtain the be found at the Rome

European Health Insurance American Hospital or by

Card from the UK Department looking in the English Yellow

of Health or the post office. Pages at some hotel receptions

It comes with a booklet of and international bookshops.

advice and information on the Pharmacists post late-opening

procedure for claiming free rosters on their doors (several

medical treatment. stay open all night), and can

usually supply the local equiv-

alent of foreign medicines. The

Vatican Pharmacy stocks some

American and British

pharmaceutical products.

Carabinieri in dress uniform Ospedale Fatebenefratelli
Piazza Fatebenefratelli 2. Map 4 C4.
Tel 06-683 71.

Ospedale Pediatrico
Bambino Gesù
Piazza S. Onofrio 4. Map 3 C4.
Tel 06-68 591.

Ospedale San Giacomo
Via Canova 29. Map 4 F2.
Tel 06-362 61.

378 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Banking and Local Currency

Money services are not always fast American Express, or take
those issued through a major
in Rome. Transactions can involve bank. Most issuers charge
1 per cent commission on
considerable paperwork and a lot travellers’ cheques. Get some
small denominations, so you
of waiting around. On the whole, bank won’t be left with huge
amounts of euros at the end
Eagle sculpture exchange rates are more favourable than of your trip. But don’t forget
on the Ministry that the minimum commission
of Finance those in travel agents and hotels – the charged for each transaction
(and the amount of time
deal just takes longer to complete. Small involved) may make changing
small amounts of money
change is indispensable, since coins are needed for uneconomical.

telephones, tips and for illuminating works of art and Always record the
travellers’ cheque numbers
chapels in churches (see p375). and refund addresses
separately from the cheques
CHANGING MONEY themselves in case they are
stolen. Some places will
It is best to have a few euros Automatic exchange machine charge you for each cheque.
when you arrive, so you
won’t have to change money CREDIT CARDS Check the exchange rates
immediately. However, ATMs before you travel and
are found everywhere and Credit cards, which used decide whether euro,
there are increasing numbers to be regarded with great dollar or sterling cheques
of convenient electronic suspicion in Italy, are now are more appropriate.
exchange machines at arrival much more widely accepted in
points. There are now several hotels, restaurants and shops. OPENING HOURS
throughout the city too. All major credit and charge
Multilingual instructions are cards (American Express, Banks are usually open
available. You simply feed in Access/MasterCard, Visa, 8.30am–1.20pm and
notes of a foreign currency, Diners Club) are well known. 3–4.30pm Mon–Fri, but
and should get some euros Banks and cash dispensers are opening times vary and
back. Exchange rates vary more likely to accept Visa cards banks are closed for public
from place to place. The for cash advances, but Access holidays and at weekends.
Banco di Santo Spirito office (MasterCard) is accepted by
at Fiumicino airport offers many retail outlets in Italy. Bureaux de Change have
reasonable rates. Take both if you have them. more generous opening
Paying for anything in foreign times, similar to shop hours.
For the best rates, change currency will almost always The exchange offices at
money at a bank (look for the be expensive. Termini station (see p388)
sign Cambio). Hotels tend to are also open on Sundays.
give poor rates, even if they Some restaurants and shops
charge modest commissions. set a minimum expenditure USING BANKS
At the Vatican Museums (see level, below which they will
p235), you aren’t charged any not accept credit card Queues in banks can be long
commission. The American payment. Check you have and the form-filling involved
Express office (see p375) some cash just in case. in changing money can take
offers good rates and is open up a lot of valuable holiday
on Saturday mornings. Card- TRAVELLERS’ CHEQUES time. You usually have to
holders may withdraw up to queue first at the cambio,
$1,000 (or £500) a week from then at the cassa to obtain
the cash machine, but you your cash. Take some form of
have to pay a fee for this identification with you, such
service and need to organize as a passport. Metal objects
a PIN (personal identification may set off emergency
number) linked to your detectors as you enter.
account before you travel.

If you opt for travellers’
cheques, choose a well-
known name such as

Exchange office at one of the One of the major Italian banks
Italian national banks The Bank of Rome, which has branches in other Italian cities

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 379

THE EURO Netherlands, Portugal and circulation on 1 January 2002.
Spain chose to join the new A transition period allowed
Twelve countries have currency; the UK, Denmark both euros and local currencies
replaced their traditional and Sweden stayed out, with to be used simultaneously, but
currencies, such as the Italian an option to review their all the old currencies were
lira, with the euro. Austria, situation. The euro was intro- phased out by mid-2002. All
Belgium, Finland, France, duced on 1 January 1999, but euro notes and coins can be
Germany, Greece, Ireland, only for banking purposes. used anywhere inside the
Italy, Luxembourg, the Notes and coins came into participating member states.

Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note
(grey in colour) is the smallest,
followed by the €10 note (pink),
€20 note (blue), €50 note (orange),
€100 note (green), €200 note
(yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the
European Union.

2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
5 cents 2 cents 1 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations:
€1 and €2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents,
5 cents, 2 cents and 1 cent. The €2 and €1
coins are both silver and gold in colour.
The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins are gold.
The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze.

380 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Communications

In recent years the telephone system in economical if you are making
Rome has undergone a number of major international calls: time varia-
upheavals. Many phone numbers have tions throughout the world
been changed and a new generation of can make a difference to the
equipment has been installed. Since the cost of the call.
deregulation of the system, Albacom
Public and Infostrada phones compete with the As a general rule, it is con-
telephone sign national Telecom Italia service. It is siderably cheaper to dial
important to note that any telephone direct for international calls
number dialled in Italy needs to have the full relevant rather than going through the
local code (including the zero) dialled in front of it. operator or making collect or
credit card calls.
TELEPHONE OFFICES this service, but opening
hours do not always coincide Telephone calls from hotel
Telephone offices are run by with Italy’s cheapest-rate rooms are usually very expen-
Telecom Italia and private calling times. sive and are sometimes
“call centres”, and they offer a marked up by as much as
convenient way of making To send an international several hundred per cent.
long-distance or private telegram, you can either go Normally telephone calls
calls. There are several to a main post office or dial cost more from Italy than
metered telephones, each 186 and dictate it directly they do from either the
in its own sound-proofed over the telephone. UK or North America.
booth. An assistant will
assign you a booth, and CALL CHARGES Telephone company logo
meter your call once you
have been connected to the The cheapest times to make a USING PUBLIC
number you want. You do phone call within Italy are TELEPHONES
not need large amounts of between 6.30pm and 8am
change as you pay at the Monday to Friday, after 1pm In the wake of the mobile
desk when you have finished. Saturday and all day Sunday. phone revolution, demand for
There is no extra charge for It is a good idea to check public telephones has
what time of day is most decreased considerably.
However, there are still plenty
USING A TELECOM ITALIA CARD TELEPHONE of payphones around the city.
New-style payphones are
1Lift the 3The display rounded, steel models,
receiver shows how and from these you can dial
and wait for much credit is long-distance and most inter-
the dialling left. national calls direct. These
tone. phones only take telephone
cards (ask for a scheda or
2Insert a 4Dial the carta telefonica), available in
phonec number several denominations.
ard in the and wait to be
slot. connected. Telephone cards are availa-
ble from shops, bars and
5If you still tobacconists displaying the
have credit black-and-white T sign. Break
and want off the marked corner, insert
to make a the card arrow first, and the
second call, value of the unexpired units
press the will show on a display win-
“follow-on call” dow. After your call, the card
button. can be retrieved and reused
until it expires.
To use a card, break off the
marked corner and insert, International phone cards,
arrow first. such as the Europa card, have
been introduced since
deregulation, and are by
far the cheapest option if
phoning abroad from Italy.
They are also available from
tobacconists and come in
either ¤5 or ¤10 cards, which
give 120 (or more) minutes of

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 381

calling time. When using, dial REACHING THE RIGHT NUMBER
the main number supplied on
the card, key in the pin code • The code for Rome is 06 (obligatory also within the city).
and then dial the number
required. • International directory enquiries is on 1254 (press 2).

SIM CARDS • Operator assistance is on 170. Reverse charge and credit

If staying in Rome for a card calls are also accepted.
considerable period of time,
it is probably worth buying rectory enquiries is on 1254 (press 1).
an Italian SIM card, with
its own unique telephone dial direct using the following codes.
number, to use with your
own mobile phone. The e operator in your own country to
SIM cards cost around ¤15
and usually come with ¤5 ect or credit card call dial 800 172
of free credit. They can be
purchased, and topped up, hen: 441 for the UK; 444 for AT&T,
from various mobile phone
outlets throughout the US; 401 for WorldFone, US; 405 for US
city, including those at
Termini station. Sprint; 610 for Telstra, Australia; and

EMAIL AND INTERNET Stamps are available 611 for Optus, Australia.
at tobacconists • See also Emergency Numbers p361.
While many hotels now offer
Internet access, for those you can access your account easyInternetCafé
wishing to send and check or go online to search the Piazza Barberini. Map 5 B3.
emails there are also a web. These establishments Open 8am–1am daily.
number of Internet cafés offer a variety of refreshments
throughout Rome, where ranging from alcohol and Internet Café
coffee to light snacks. Via Marrucini 12. Map 6 F3.
Most are close to the city Tel 06-445 4953.
centre and therefore easily Open 9–1am Mon–Fri,
accessible to visitors. 4pm–1am Sat–Sun.

Cyber Café Mail Boxes Etc
Via del Corso 320. Via dei Mille 38.
Map 4 F2. Map 6 E3. Tel 06-446 1945.
Tel 06-678 6209. Open 9am–6.30pm Mon–Fri,
Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. 9am–1pm Sat.

Sending Letters as well as in post offices.
For urgent items, use the
The Italian postal serviceis not letter in Italy, you needn’t post office’s express or
especially efficient and it is worry about your post going registered service.
said that letters travelled astray; the service itself is
faster in the days of the old reliable. For postcards, the Sub-post office hours are
Roman Empire than they do service is usually fine but it generally from around 8.30am
today, in spite of modern is particularly slow in the until 2pm (8.30am until noon
technology. Nevertheless, so summer months, especially on Saturdays and the last day
long as you bear in mind the in August, when it can take of the month), but main
extra time it takes to send a up to a month for a postcard offices stay open until well
to reach the UK. For impor- into the evening for some
Rome letters Other destinations ant items, it is better to use services (such as registered
he new “priority post” post). Italian post boxes
(posta prioritaria) with its are usually red, though there
own stamp which can be are also some, for foreign
bought, like ordinary stamps destinations (marked estero),
(francobolli), at tobacconists, that are blue.

VATICAN POST POSTE RESTANTE

The Vatican postal service Letters and parcels which
costs the same as the state are to be picked up at
post, but is faster. Buy cards the post office are sent care
and stamps at the post office of (c/o) Palazzo delle Poste,
near the Vatican Museums Roma, Fermo Posta. Print
entrance, or in Piazza San the surname clearly in block
Pietro. Letters bearing Vatican capitals and underline it to
stamps can only be posted make sure the letters are
in blue Vatican post boxes. filed correctly. To collect
your post, you have to
show your passport and
pay a small charge. American
Express poste restante is
free to clients.

382

Additional Information

(06-687 2672). Call centre
199-50 11 50. www.cts.it

Wasteels
Via A Belloni 1, 20162 Milan.
Tel 02-6610 3096. www.wasteels.it

CATHOLIC SERVICES

Fiumicino airport, point of arrival for most visitors to Rome For many Catholics, a visit
to Rome means an audience
CUSTOMS AND country’s customs department. with the Pope. General
audiences are usually held
IMMIGRATION The refund system for Value every Wednesday at 11am
(10am in hot weather) in St
Added Tax (IVA in Italy) for Peter’s Square, the Audiences
room, or at the summer resi-
European Union nationals and non-EU residents is very dence at Castel Gandolfo. To
attend an audience, apply by
citizens of the US, Canada, complex (see p335). fax to the Prefettura della
Casa Pontificia (see p231).
Australia and New Zealand do Rome travel agencies may be
able to arrange an audience as
not need visas for stays of up Questura part of a coach tour during
your stay. There is no charge.
to 3 months. All visitors are Tel 06-46 86.
Mass is held daily in the
required to present a full pass- main churches of Rome (High
Mass is on Sunday). Churches
port on entry and, officially, where confession is heard
include St Peter’s (see pp230–
need to declare their presence 33), San Giovanni in Laterano
(pp182–3), San Paolo fuori
to the Italian police within 8 le Mura (p267), Santa Maria
Maggiore (pp172–3), the Gesù
working days of arrival. If you (pp114–15), Santa Sabina
(p204) and Sant’Ignazio
are staying in a hotel or on a (p106). English-speaking
Catholic churches include
campsite, this will be done for San Clemente (see p187) and
Santa Susanna (see p255).
you. Otherwise, contact the
Prefettura della Casa
local Questura (police station). Pontificia
Città del Vaticano. Map 3 B3.
Anyone wishing to stay for Tel 06-6988 3273.
Fax 06-6988 5863.
more than 3 months (8 working
Pope Benedict XVI during an
days for citizens from countries audience in St Peter’s Square

other than those mentioned Students on the steps of Santa

above) will have to work Maria Maggiore

their way through complicated

Italian bureaucracy to obtain STUDENT INFORMATION

a permesso di soggiorno (permit

to stay). You can apply for a An International Student Iden-

permit at any main police tity Card (ISIC) or a Youth

station, Questura. Depending International Educational

on your motive for staying, Exchange Card (YIEE) are

you must apply for either a worth having for reductions

permit for work on museum and

(lavoro) or a other charges.

permit for study Contact the

(studio). Visitors Centro Turistico

should always Studentesco for

check requirements general student

before travelling. ISIC card information. The

Duty-free Associazione

allowances are as follows. Italiana Alberghi per la

Residents of the EU can bring Gioventù (the Italian YHA)

duty-free goods into Italy for has four hostels in the city.

their own use: 800 cigarettes, Wasteels has information on

200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 1 kg international rail discounts.

of smoking tobacco, 10 litres

of spirits, 90 litres of wine and Associazione Italiana

100 litres of beer. Limits for Alberghi per la Gioventù

non-EU citizens are stricter: Via Cavour 44. Map 3 D3.

400 cigarettes, 100 cigars, 200 Tel 06-487 1152. Fax 06-488 0492.

cigarillos or 500 grams of www.ostellionline.org

tobacco, 1 litre of spirits or 2

litres of wine and 50 grams of Centro Turistico Studentesco

perfume. To find out what you Via Genova 16.Map 5 C3.

can take back from Italy to a Tel 06-462 0431. Also branch at

non-EU country, contact that Corso Vittorio Emanuele 297

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 383

OTHER RELIGIOUS SERVIC ROME TIME

Anglican Newspapers available in Rome Rome is one hour ahead
All Saints, Via del Babuino 153. of Greenwich Mean Time
Map 4 F2. Tel 06-3600 1881. NEWSPAPERS, TV, RADIO (GMT). Examples of the time
difference with Rome for other
American Episcopal major cities are as follows:
St Paul’s, Via Napoli 58. Map 5 C3. London: -1 hour; New York:
Tel 06-488 3339. -6 hours; Dallas: -7 hours; Los
Angeles: -9 hours; Perth: +7
Jewish hours; Sydney: +9 hours;
Sinagoga, Lungotevere Cenci. Auckland: +11 hours; Tokyo:
Map 4 F5 & 12 D5. Tel 06-684 006 +8 hours. These figures can
vary slightly for brief periods
Methodist with local changes in summer.
Piazza di Ponte Sant’Angelo. Map 4 For all official purposes, the
E3 & 11 A2. Tel 06-686 8314. Italians use the 24-hour clock.

Mosque Rome’s main newspapers CONVERSION TABLE
Viale della Moschea 85 (Parioli district). are La Repubblica and Il
Map 2 F1. Tel 06-808 2258. Messaggero. British and Imperial to Metric
American newspapers are
Presbyterian readily available, the 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
St Andrew’s, Via XX Settembre 7. International Herald Tribune
Map 5 C3. Tel 06-482 7627. and the Guardian on the day 1 foot = 30 centimetres
of issue. The state TV chan-
The Mosque in Parioli nels are RAI Uno, Due and 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
Tre, matched by four private
SIGHTSEEING PERMITS channels. The advent of satel- 1 ounce = 28 grams
lite and cable TV means there
To visit certain sights in are European channels in 1 pound = 454 grams
Rome, you need to obtain a many languages, plus sport
written permit and book your and CNN news in English. 1 pint = 0.57 litres
visit in advance, particularly The BBC World Service is
for archaeological sites, which broadcast on 648 or 6195 kHz 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
may sometimes be closed (shortwave) depending on the
during excavations. Call the time of day. Vatican Radio on Metric to Imperial
number below, giving your 93.3MHz and 105MHz (FM)
name, the number of people broadcasts news in English. 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
in your party, the reason you
wish to visit the sight (for EMBASSIES AND 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
example, study or tourism) CONSULATES
and when you would like to 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
visit. You may then be asked If you lose your passport, or
to send written confirmation need other help, contact your 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
by fax. Call a few days before national embassy or consulate
to reconfirm your visit. as listed below. 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

Ufficio Monumenti Australia 1 litre = 1.8 pints
Antichi e Scavi Via A. Bosio 5. Tel 06-85 27 21.
Via Ostiense 106. www.italy.embassy.gov.au ELECTRICAL ADAPTORS
Map 8 E5.
Tel 06-6710 3819. Canada Electric current in Italy is
www.romacultura.org Via Zara 30. Tel 06-85 444 2912. 220V AC, with two- or three-
www.canada.it pin round-pronged plugs.
Adaptors can be bought in
New Zealand most countries. Most hotels of
Via Zara 28. Tel 06-441 7171. three or more stars have hair
www.nzembassy.com dryers and shaving points in
all bedrooms.
United Kingdom
Via XX Settembre 80A. Map 6 D2. Shaving point in hotel bedroom for
Tel 06-4220 0001. 110V 220V
www.britain.it
Italian plugs often whave two pins
United States
Via Veneto 119A/121. Map 5 B2.
Tel 06-467 41. www.usembassy.it

384 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

GETTING TO ROME

Many national airlines, including growing number of visitors. Rome also
Italy’s Alitalia, fly direct to Rome has train and coach links with the rest
from most European cities and of Europe. These take a lot longer
several in North America, than flights (about 24

although most interconti- hours from London,

nental passengers tend compared with about

to catch connections from two and a half hours by air),

Milan, Frankfurt or London. Alitalia aircraft but tend to cost about the

Rome’s Fiumicino and Ciampino same, so are only really worthwhile

airports have expanded considerably if you want to travel overland. The

in recent years to accommodate the trains are often crowded in summer.

Part of the new extension to Fiumicino airport

BY AIR intercontinental travellers to intercontinental transit

take a budget flight to point is Ethiopian Airlines,

If you’re flying from the London, Paris, Athens, whose fares are cheaper,

United States, Delta, US Frankfurt or but flights are

Airways, Continental and Amsterdam and less frequent

Alitalia operate regular direct continue the journey and have a

scheduled flights to Rome, to Rome from reputation for

with services from New there. British being subject to

York. Flying time is about Airways and long delays.

8½ hours. Air Canada and Alitalia both Excursion fares

Qantas flights generally operate direct generally offer the

arrive and depart from Milan. scheduled flights Alitalia flight best value in scheduled

There are direct flights to from London Heathrow tickets flights, but you must

Atlanta, Philadelphia and to Rome (Fiumicino), purchase them well in

Toronto, though most other and you can also fly from advance. They are subject to

intercontinental flights involve Gatwick, Birmingham and penalty clauses if you cancel,

changing at Milan. It may Manchester. Among the so it is advisable to take out

be considerably cheaper for airlines using Rome as an insurance as soon as you buy

your ticket.

If you are based in or

travelling via the UK, it

is worth looking on the

Internet. In addition to BA

and Alitalia, you can book

low-cost tickets direct from

airlines easyJet and Ryanair,

which have daily flights from

London and other locations

to Rome (Ciampino). Hotels

and car rental can also be

booked via these airlines’

websites, and both offer

Check-in area at Fiumicino, Rome’s main international airport their own privately chartered

GETTING TO ROME 385

bus to transport incoming Those from further afield can
passengers from Ciampino visit the city during Europe-
airport to Termini. wide tours. Most package
companies include transfers
Regular charter flights for from the airport to your hotel.
Rome’s Ciampino airport run
all year round. Most leave FIUMICINO AIRPORT
from Stansted, Gatwick and
Luton, but there are a few Rome has two international
flights from Manchester,
Glasgow and Birmingham. airports. Leonardo da Vinci –
The price of fares varies,
peaking in summer and in known as Fiumicino – han-
Holy Week for the Pope’s
Easter blessing. In Rome, the dles most scheduled flights,
American Express travel office
will also book flights. and is about 30 km (18 miles)

Easy-to-follow signs at Ostiense southwest of the city. The air-

AIRLINE NUMBERS port has three terminals: A for

Air Canada domestic flights, B for interna-
www.aircanada.com
tional flights within the Euro- The train linking Fiumicino airport to
Alitalia
Tel 06-22 22. pean Union, and C for all Stazione Termini
www.alitalia.it
other international flights.
American Express
Tel 06-676 41. From Fiumicino there are airport and the surrounding

British Airways two types of train to Rome: area. Developments include a
Tel 199 712 266
www.britishairways.com one (€5) runs every 15–30 raised pedestrian walkway for

Delta Air Lines minutes (6.27am–11.27pm) to travelling between car parks,
Tel 800 477 999.
www.delta.com Fara Sabina station, stopping the railway station and various

easyJet at Trastevere, Ostiense, points within
www.easyjet.com
Tuscolana and the airport,
Qantas
Tel 06-5248 2725. Tiburtina, but the expan-
www.qantas.com
not Termini. sion of Ter-
Ryanair
www.ryanair.com The other, minal A, and

US Airways “Leonardo a four-star
Tel 8488 13177.
www.usair.com Express”, is Shuttle bus to car-hire hotel near to

PACKAGE HOLIDAYS faster and more lots at Fiumicino the terminals.

Package holidays to Rome expensive (€11),
can be much better value
than travelling independently. running non-stop to Termini CIAMPINO AIRPORT
For European visitors there
are weekend packages and every half hour (6.35am–
two- or three-centre holidays;
Rome is frequently packaged 11.35pm). If the ticket office The other airport that serves
with Florence and Venice.
(which also sells Metro tick- Rome is Ciampino, about

ets) is not open, tackle the 15 km (9 miles) south-east

automatic ticket machine. and used by the majority of

Remember to specify which charter flights. Major car hire

train you want when buying firms have a rental office at

your ticket. the airport, though you may

Ostiense is linked with Pira- find it less harrowing to get

mide Metro (Line B) where into the city centre on public

you can catch an underground transport or by taxi.

train to the city centre from The swiftest way to get to

5.30am until 11.30pm daily (to the centre of Rome is by the

12.30am Sat). It can be hard to private Terravision coach

find a taxi at Ostiense after service. Coaches go direct to

9pm, but there are buses (Nos. Termini station and tickets

95 and 30) to Piazza Venezia. cost €8 (€14 return). A cheaper

Car rental is available from option is by Cotral or Schiaffini

offices at the airport (see p395). bus to Anagnina Metro station,

Efforts have been made at then by underground train to

Fiumicino to improve both the Termini. Tickets (€1, plus €1

for each large bag) can

be bought on the bus.

A local bus service also

links the airport to

Ciampino mainline

station. If you take a

taxi from the airport,

only use the official

white cabs. A flat fare

system is now in

operation for all official

Ciampino, a more basic airport used by most taxis; the journey from

charter flights Ciampino costs €30.

386 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Arriving in Rome V National connections
Links to Flaminio from Viterbo
This map shows the main bus, rail and Metro (2 hrs), Bracciano (90 mins).
links used by travellers arriving in Rome. The
connections between Rome’s two airports
and the city centre are shown, as well as
links between Rome and the rest of Italy and
international rail routes from neighbouring
European countries. Travel information,
including details of journey times and service
frequency, is listed separately in each box.

Q Line A, northbound Flaminio
Stops after Ottaviano S. Pietro
are: Cipro Musei Vaticani, Valle Lepanto
Aurelia, Baldo degli Ubaldi,
Cornelia and Battistini (end Piazza Spagna
station). di Spagna
Ottaviano
V Coastal route from S. Pietro Barberini
Northern Italy
Links with Termini station. Vatican
Marseille (11 hrs), Nice (9 hrs),
Turin (7 hrs 30 mins), Genoa Piazza
(6 hrs), Pisa (3 hrs 30 mins). della
Rotonda
E Piazza
Navona
B
San I Campo Capitol
Pietro T de’ Fiori

KEY Janiculum Largo
k Airport see pp384–5 Argentina
V Railway see pp388–9
@ Coach & Bus Link see p389 R Forum
Q Metro see pp392–3
Palatine
Airport Link see pp384–5
State Rail Link see pp388–9 Trastevere
Metro Line A see pp392–3
Metro Line B see pp392–3 Circo Massimo
Walkway Aventine
Tram 8
Piramide

k LEONARDO DA Trastevere
VINCI (FIUMICINO)
Ostiense
Direct train links to Ostiense,
Tiburtina and Termini. Q Line B, southbound
V Fiumicino–Fara Sabina Stops after Piramide are:
(via Trastevere, Ostiense, Garbatella, Basilica San Paolo,
Tiburtina) every 15–30 minutes; Marconi, EUR Magliana, EUR
Fiumicino–Termini Palasport, EUR Fermi and
every 30 minutes. Laurentina (end station).
www.adr.it

GETTING TO ROME 387

@ Coach connections V International and
into Rome Northern Italy
International and Links with Termini. Trains
national bus links at arriving after midnight
Piazza dei terminate at Tiburtina.
Cinquecento (in front Paris (15 hrs), Vienna (14 hrs),
of Termini). Buses for Geneva (14 hrs), Basle (13 hrs),
the Lazio region link Munich (11 hrs), Verona (7
at Lepanto, Anagnina hrs), Milan (5 hrs), Bologna (3
or Laurentina. hrs 30 mins), Florence (2 hrs).

Rome is well Piazza
served by coaches Bologna

Via Veneto Policlinico Tiburtina Q Line B, northbound
Stops after Tiburtina are:
Castro Monti Tiburtini, Pietralata,
Pretorio Santa Maria del Soccorso,
Ponte Mammolo and
Rebibbia (end station).

Repubblica Roma Termini
Quirinal

Cavour Vittorio V Eastern Italy
Esquiline Emanuele Links with Termini station.
Pescara 4 hrs),
Colosseo L’Aquila (3 hrs 30 mins).

Manzoni V Southern Italy
Links with Termini station.
Lateran Palermo (12 hrs), Reggio
Calabria (9 hrs 30 mins), Bari
San Giovanni (6 hrs 30 mins), Naples (2 hrs).

Caracalla Re di Roma Tuscolana
Ponte Lungo

Q Line A, southbound k CIAMPINO
Stops after Ponte Lungo are:
Furio Camillo, Colli Albani, Bus link every 30–60 mins to
Arco di Travertino, Porta Furba, Ciampino station (10 mins) &
Numidio Quadrato, Lucio Anagnina Metro station (Line A;
Sestio, Giulio Agricola, 25 mins). Both link with Termini
Subaugusta, Cinecittà and station. Private coach services to
Anagnina (end station). Termini station are also available.
www.adr.it
Termini Metro station

388 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Reaching Rome by Train, Coach or Car

Any overland journey to Rome is fastest by train, though

there are coach connections to most major European

cities. Within Italy, journeys between large cities are

usually also best done by train, but when travelling

from towns which are not on the main Intercity

rail routes, coaches can be quicker. For drivers,

the Italian Automobile Club (see p377) provides

free assistance and excellent maps to members of

affiliated automobile clubs from all over the world. The Eurostar – Italy’s fastest train

interest to tourists. They are
Ostiense and Trastevere, for
trains to Fiumicino airport and
Viterbo (see p271); Tiburtina,
for some of the late-night
trains on the north-south line
through Italy; and Roma Nord
for trains to Prima Porta.

TRAVELLING BY TRAIN

Trenitalia, the Italian State

Railway, has several levels

The concourse at Stazione Termini of service, from Locale trains

which stop at every station,

STAZIONE TERMINI information. There is an inter- to the Eurostar, a super-fast

national telephone office (see and extremely luxurious train,

Stazione Termini, Rome’s p380), a bookshop, a post which offers first- and second-

main train station, is also the office and class service.

hub of the urban transport tobacconists The Eurostar runs

system. Beneath it is the only (where you between Rome

interchange between the city’s can buy bus and Milan, Turin,

two Metro lines, and outside, and Metro Platform sign Genoa, Bari, Naples

on Piazza dei Cinquecento, is tickets). Other and Venice. You

the central bus terminus. facilities at the have to reserve and

Though it is one of Rome’s station include you are charged

most stunning 20th-century a bar and Exit sign hefty supplements
restaurant on for the privileges
buildings, it also has

unsavoury aspects, so don’t the mezzanine floor with of speed, hostess service and

linger longer than more eateries and shops free newspapers. You also

necessary on the lower, Termini pay a supplement on Intercity

at night. Forum level. The new Multi trains. These trains are for fast

If you do Service gallery near platform long-distance journeys and

arrive late, aim 1 has desks for car-hire firms have both first- and second-

to leave the as well as reduced train fare class carriages. They run

neighbour- Trenitalia logo companies. Note, however, that from Rome to Venice, Milan,

hood as there are no waiting rooms. Florence, Naples and other

swiftly as you can. There are Of Rome’s other stations, cities. You should book in

usually taxis (go to the official four are most likely to be of high season and at weekends.

queue) even in the small

hours, and many of the city’s

night buses start at Termini.

In summer the station gets

very crowded, and you can

expect long queues at ticket

booths, bureaux de change

and at both the transport and

tourist information offices.

There is a left luggage office,

a police station where you

should report anything lost

or stolen on a train or in the

station, and a small Citalia

office where you can exchange

money as well as get travel Termini, the heart of Italy’s rail network and Rome’s transport system

GETTING TO ROME 389

An international Eurocity train MACHINES FOR TRENITALIA RAIL TICKETS

Booking is obligatory on These machines are
services that are marked easy to use, and
in the timetable by a boxed most have
R on a white background. instructions on
Tickets for immediate travel screen in a choice
can be bought at the station, of six languages.
but allow plenty of time to They accept coins,
queue. From Rome you notes and credit
can also take international cards.
or Eurocity (EC) trains to
destinations all over Europe. 1Select your
A useful website concerning destination.
Italian trains is www.
trenitalia.com. Here you can 2The price is
check times and buy tickets. shown on the
display.
Trenitalia
Tel 89 20 21. 3Insert VISA, Amercan
www.trenitalia.com Express or Diners Card.

4Take your
ticket.

5You must insert your ticket
here to validate it for your
journey, if you are travelling
immediatley.

COACH TRAVEL Tickets are purchased on the
spot and cannot be booked in
advance. Some day trips from
Rome by bus are described on
pages 268–71.

Most regional and long-distance Appian Line Blue signs showing main roads and
Piazza dell’Esquilino 6–7. Map 6 D4.
coaches are blue Tel 06-4878 6604. www.appianline.it green signs showing motorways

Long-distance coaches termi- COTRAL useful. Wearing seatbelts is
nate at Tiburtina, which is the www.cotralspa.it compulsory in Italy. You must
city’s main coach station. also carry a warning triangle
Information and tickets for Lazzi Express in case of breakdown. Main
Eurolines coaches to European Via Tagliamento 27B. Tel 06-884 routes to Rome connect with
cities are available from Lazzi 08 40. www.lazziexpress.it the Grande Raccordo Anulare
Express. The Appian Line (GRA), Rome’s ring-road.
offers regular services within TRAVELLING BY CAR
Italy. Its itineraries include Tolls are charged on all
Florence, Naples, Capri, To drive your own car in Italy Italian motorways. You can
Sorrento and Pompei, and, you need an international buy magnetic motorway toll
in summer, Venice and Assisi. Green Card (for insurance cards from motoring organi-
Local buses, serving villages purposes) and the vehicle zations before entering Italy.
and towns within the Lazio registration document. A
region, are run COTRAL. All translation of your driving
bus stations used by COTRAL licence, available at Italian
are linked to Metro stations. tourist offices abroad, is also

Eurolines coach running between Rome and the rest of Europe

390 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

GETTING AROUND ROME

Rome’s centre is compact around on a rented Vespa.
and, even though walking Travelling by bus and tram can
absolutely everywhere
be very slow, so use over-

would be over-ambitious, it land public transport only

is a city in which you can when you have a long

spend much of your time on way to go. The Metro,

foot. As the main streets in the designed to connect the

centre are usually clogged Crash helmets, compulsory on suburbs with the centre, has

with traf fic, driving and all motorcycles and scooters no stops in the historic city

cycling cannot be recommended, but centre near the Pantheon or Piazza

courageous motorbike or scooter Navona, though it is certainly the swiftest

riders can have great fun buzzing way of crossing the city.

WALKING historic centre are now pedes-

Wandering through Rome’s trianized, a street which is
old centre is one of the most
enjoyable aspects of being in closed to cars may still be
the city. You can take in the
architectural details, absorb the used by cyclists and scooter
streetlife, make diversions at
will, and peek into any church, riders. There have been many
shop or bar that catches your
interest. And you can easily plans to create more traffic-
visit, or at least see, several of
the main tourist sights in a few free zones, and even to ban
hours. The Colosseum, for
example, is only about 2.5 km anything on wheels from
(1.5 miles) from the Spanish
Steps. Your route could pass by some parts of the city – but
the Forum, Piazza Venezia and
several churches; other sights, imposing such measures on a
such as the Trevi Fountain, the
Galleria Doria Pamphilj and population as insubordinate
the Pantheon, are just a short
detour away. as Rome’s is not easily done.

Explore the If you find the summer heat
city area by
area, using hard to bear, remember that
public transport
when distances the narrow cobbled streets
are too far.
Although some get little sunlight and remain
parts of the
relatively cool, while walking
Avanti: go! Pedestrians
have right of way into an open piazza can be

Alt: stop! Traffic has like stepping into a furnace. Pedestrian crossing: only slightly
right of way
During the height of summer, safer than the open road

you’ll have a more enjoyable

time if you follow the CROSSING ROADS

example of the

Italians. Walk First impressions suggest

slowly on the there can be only two sorts

shady side of of pedestrian in Rome: the

the street; have quick and the dead. Even if

a long lunch you cross roads by sets of

followed by a traffic lights and pedestrian

siesta in the crossings strictly in your

hottest part of favour, there is sure to be

Directions the day. You some van or Vespa hurtling
for walkers can continue towards you with apparently
exploring in homicidal intent. Fortunately,

the late afternoon, when Roman drivers have quick

churches and shops reopen reactions. The pious would

and the streets are at their attribute this to the protection

liveliest. Wandering at of Santa Francesca Romana

night is worthwhile, as the (see p87), cynics to the fact

streets are cool and many that according to Italian

façades floodlit. insurance law, drivers

are responsible for

any road accident.

Whatever the

inspiration,

accidents are

quite rare. The

best tactic

is to be as

Pedestrian crossing Watch out for children alert and

GETTING AROUND ROME 391

confident as Romans. The while scooters and Vespas

roads are very busy. When zoom among the lanes of

crossing, try to leave as large traffic and go the wrong way

a gap as possible between down one-way streets. One

yourself and oncoming traffic. rule to remember is to give

Step purposefully into the No stopping way to the right. Unless you

road, facing approaching are accustomed to driving in

motorists with a determined No parking Italian cities, leave your car at

glare. The trick now is to keep home – or, failing that, in a

going steadily: do not hesitate, guarded car park.

or change your course, and do Car thefts are rife in Rome,

not run. As long as a driver so never leave anything of

can see you, he or she should value in your car, even out of

stop, or at least swerve, albeit One-way street sight: areas such as Campo de’

at the last moment. Fiori are patrolled by gangs

Pedestrians and drivers must on the lookout for anyone

both take particular care at leaving cameras, fur coats

night, when the traffic lights and other costly items in their

are switched to a constantly boots. You should also remove

flashing amber, turning the your car radio – you won’t be

crossings into free-for-alls. the only person carrying one

into a bar, restaurant or disco.

STREET SIGNS Take extra care if driving

late at night. Not only do

Theoretically, although it may traffic lights switch to flashing

not always seem to be the No through road amber, but some drivers are

case, pedestrians have right of astonishingly cavalier about

way at crossings when the DRIVING driving under the influence

green avanti sign is lit up. of drink or drugs.

The red sign alt means you Driving in central Rome can

must wait. Underground be an extremely intimidating PARKING

crossings are indicated by a experience for visitors. The

sign reading sottopassaggio. flamboyant aggression of The most convenient car park

It is easy to get lost in the Italian drivers is notorious, is below the Villa Borghese.

maze of streets and piazzas pedestrians step out into the Much of the city centre is

that comprise the historic cen- roads without reserved for residents

tre. Until you know your way warning, and the with permits but there

around you can follow the one-way system are around 2,000

yellow signs marking routes operating in much of metered parking

between the sights and piaz- the centre makes spaces (from 8am–

zas of particular interest to retaining a sense of 8pm). If you do find

tourists. Routes leading to direction impossible. a legal place to park,

general landmarks are indicat- You’ll also find however, you may

ed by signs on a brown or motorists overtaking Directions to return and find that

grey background. on the wrong side, parking areas you have been

hemmed in by double-

ILLEGAL PARKING parked cars. Locations of
some of the most useful car
Rome’s traffic police are vigilant. parks are listed on page 395.
If you’ve parked illegally, your car

may be clamped or (if it’s causing PETROL
an obstruction) towed away, so

phone 06-67 691 to check before Petrol is very
expensive. It can
reporting it stolen. No-parking be bought from
roadside petrol
zones should be clearly marked, pumps (many

but look carefully, in case the sign Signpost for a tow away
is hidden by a tree.
area (zona rimozione)

of which are The state petrol

self-service, company logo

operated by

banknotes or credit cards),

as well as from regular

garages. Check whether your

car uses lead-free petrol

(benzina senza piombo or

benzina verde) or not. Late-

A tow truck at work night petrol stations are listed

on page 395.

392 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Bus,Tram and Metro

Rome’s public transport system is cheap in comparison Rome–Gubbio bus
with the rest of Europe, and it is as efficient as the
busy streets allow. Priests, nuns, tourists, pilgrims,
businessmen and pickpockets all pile aboard, trans-
forming the buses and trams into mobile saunas during
the summer. The system embraces the entire city, but
short distances are better covered on foot, because
heavy traffic often blocks the roads. Getting off at the
right stop can be difficult, but other passengers will
usually help if you ask for directions. Always keep a
tight hold on your valuables.

BUSES AND TRAMS decker, passes many of the tickets on the bus itself.
In the day, you should board
city’s tourist attractions and the bus at the back. There
will be an orange machine
Rome’s public bus and tram leaves from Piazza dei Cinque- there to time-stamp your
ticket, or a yellow equivalent
company is called ATAC cento every 10 to 15 minutes that automatically cancels the
new electronic tickets. Timed
(Azienda Tramvie e Autobus between 8.40am and 8.30pm. tickets, biglietto integrato a
tempo (BIT), can be used on
del Comune di Roma). Scores Linking the centre with the all means of transport. Free
transport maps can be found
of buses and several trams catacombs and the at the Via Volturno office.

cover most parts of the city. monuments on the Via Appia INFORMATION

They run from early Antica, the Archeobus ATAC
Piazza dei Cinquecento. Map 6 D3.
morning until about leaves Piazza Venezia Tel 800-43 1784. www.atac.roma.it
Open 8am–8pm Mon–Sat.
midnight. There are on the hour between
Customer Service
also a few night buses. 10am and 4pm. Via Ostiense 131L (1st floor),
to the south of Stazione Ostiense.
Apart from a few Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.

electric minibuses USING BUSES TICKETS

(116, 117, 119), no AND TRAMS Tickets for city buses, trams
and Metros have to be bought
buses can run through before you travel and
stamped in the appropriate
the narrow streets of The main terminus is machine as soon as you start
your journey. You can buy
the historic centre. But on Piazza dei tickets at bars, news-stands
and tobacconists, as well as at
there are plenty of bus Cinquecento outside Metro stations and bus termini.
Look out for places displaying
routes to take you Termini station, but ATAC (for bus, Metro and
tram) and Trenitalia or FS
within a short walk of Bus stop listing there are other major (train) stickers. There are also
the main sights (see details of routes route hubs through- automatic ticket machines at
inside back cover). out the city, most main bus stops and train and
served Metro stations that take coins,
though it is wise to have the
Bus stops list the usefully those at exact amount of change.

details of routes taken by all Piazza del Risorgimento, BIT tickets are valid for 75
minutes, during which time
buses using that stop. Night Piazza San Silvestro and Piazza you can take one Metro ride
and hop on and off as many
buses are marked with a blue Venezia. Information on buses and trams as you like.
If you are going to make four
owl on the bus stop. public transport can be or more journeys in one day,

obtained from ATAC kiosks,

SPECIAL BUS SERVICES the customer service office or

the ATAC website. Tickets can

There are two bus services be purchased from automatic

designed especially for machines at main bus stops

tourists; the 110 and the and at Metro and train stations,

Archeobus service. The 110, newsagents and tobacconists.

a red, open-topped double- Note that you can’t buy

A modern tram taking passengers through the city

GETTING AROUND ROME 393

where buses go to Ciampino

airport. Line B (blue) runs from

Rebibbia in the northeast,

down to EUR in the south-

west, where buses leave for

the coast. Stations are clearly

marked by the Metro logo, a

white M on a red background.

The system was designed to

ferry commuters in from the

One of Rome’s red and grey ATAC buses suburbs, so is not very useful

within the centre, but the

it is worth buying a biglietto METROPOLITANA Metro is a fairly speedy way of

integrato giornaliero (BIG) crossing the city. Among the

ticket. These give you a day’s Rome’s underground system, most useful stations are Co-

travel on the buses, trams and the Metropolitana, has two losseo, Spagna, San Giovanni,

the Metro. There are also three- lines (A and B) which cross Ottaviano S. Pietro and

day, seven-day and monthly the city in a rough Piramide (for trains to

(calendar month) passes that X-shape, converging Fiumicino). Line B

are valid for the whole trans- at Termini station runs from 5.30am until

port system, with discounts for (see inside back cover 11.30pm every day (to

students and people over 65. and pp386–7). Line 12.30am Saturday). Line

To travel further afield in Lazio, A (red) leads from A shuts early, at 9pm,

consider buying a regional Battistini in the west Metro logo though a substitute bus

BIRG ticket. Fare-dodging to Anagnina in the does operate. For more

incurs a hefty on-the-spot fine. southeast of the city, from details, visit www.metroroma.it

USEFUL BUS AND TRAM ROUTES

This map shows some of the buses that go through interesting parts of Rome with good

views of major sights. The 40 Express and 64 are always full of tourists, since they go from

Termini to St Peter’s and the Vatican. The other routes are likely to be less crowded. The 3

tram follows a long leisurely route around

the southeast of the city, while bus 23 Villa Borghese

goes along the Tiber. Piazza del
Popolo
Villa Giulia

Flaminio T

T Spagna Fontana del
Tritone
Castel San Lorenzo
Sant’Angelo T Barberini fuori le
Mura
Vatican 9T
Gianicolo Ponte Via del
Umberto I Tritone Termini

Via Piazza
Giulia Colonna

Pantheon T Colosseo Porta
Maggiore

St Peter’s Largo Piazza T San Giovanni
Argentina Venezia
Villa
Farnesina KEY

Palazzo Venezia Q Metro station

Piazza Sonnino Teatro di V Railw ay station
Marcello
T Circo Tram route 8
Bocca della Massimo Tram route 3
Verità
Bus route 23

Santa Maria Pyramid of Bus route 62
in Cosmedin Caius Cestius Bus routes 40 Express and 64

Trastevere V Bus route 116
Bus route 117
Ostiense 9T Piramide

394 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

BIKE AND MOPED HIRE

Rome’s narrow streets and Horse-drawn carriages outside the Pantheon
heavy traffic, combined with
the seven steep hills on Piaggio Vespa, meaning “wasp” HORSE-DRAWN
which it was built, make it a and named after the buzzing CARRIAGES
challenging place for even the noise it makes – are good for
most serious of cyclists. How- getting through the traffic. You These are not as popular in
ever, there are a few areas, may want to stick to quiet Rome as in Florence, but
such as the Villa Borghese, streets to begin with, though. you can hire horse-drawn
the banks of the Tiber and caleches (carrozzelle) for a
some pockets in the historic Motorcyclists have to wear gentle tour of the historic
centre (around the Pantheon helmets by law and they have centre. Carriages carry up to
and Piazza Navona), where finally started to do so. You five people and can be hired
cycling can be a relaxing way from many points: Piazza di
to see the city. Make sure that can hire helmets from most Spagna, the Colosseum, Trevi
you have a loud bell though – hire shops in Rome. Fountain, St Peter’s, Via
places that are good for Veneto, Villa Borghese, Piazza
cyclists tend to be popular Bikes and mopeds can be Venezia and Piazza Navona.
with walkers and strollers too. hired from Collalti, Roma Trips last half an hour, an
Rent, Scoot-a-Long, HR hour, half a day or a day.
Mopeds (motorini) and and Scooters for Rent. They tend to be expensive,
scooters – like the classic Biciroma rents from but prices for longer rides are
several spots around the negotiable; establish the price
A Vespa scooter and helmet city and a telephone hire before you set off and make
service operates in the sure you understand whether
summer and autumn. the rate is per person, or for
You may be asked to leave the whole carriage.
a credit card number or cash
as a deposit when you pick
up the bike (see p367).

TAXIS Termini and Ostiense). Roman Taxis lining up at Piazza Argentina
taxi drivers are not renowned
Official taxis in Rome are for their friendliness and may are at a standstill, so traffic
white and must bear the even refuse to take you too far jams can become expensive.
“taxi” sign on the roof. Only from the lucrative city centre. Drivers may also take sus-
use these taxis, not the ones piciously circuitous routes.
Taxis are not a particularly While native Romans usually
offered by touts at cheap way of getting about, tip taxi drivers small amounts,
stations and tourist so, unless you have heavy visitors are expected to give
spots; official taxi luggage or screaming 10 per cent of the fare. You
toddlers, public transport is can book in advance (but
drivers do not tout usually a better option. will incur a surcharge) from:
Taxi- for customers. Taxi drivers always charge Pianeta Taxi 2000, Cooperativa
stand Official taxis can supplements for baggage, Autoradiotaxi Romana 35-70
signpost be hailed either at night journeys (10pm–7am), or Società la Capitale Radio
journeys on Sundays or Taxi. For a good value taxi
specially marked public holidays, and fares to service to and from the
stands or on the street (drivers or from the airport. As with airports call Airport
are not meant to stop in the taxis elsewhere, the meter Connection Services.
street but many of them do). continues running while you
You can nearly always find
them at the main tourist sights,
at airports and stations
(including

Official taxi with Comune di Roma sign

GETTING AROUND ROME 395

RIVER TRANSPORT Prospective renters should be idea to join an internationally
aged 21 or over and have affiliated automobile associa-
The service offered by held a driving licence for at tion (such as the AA in Britain
Battelli di Roma runs from least a year. You will also or the AAA in the US). If you
an embarkation point near need to leave a deposit – a do break down, phone the
the Tiber island to Ponte credit card number is usually ACI (Italian Automobile Club)
Duca d’Aosta. Boats depart enough. Some firms also ask for assistance – they will tow
four times a day (see website for an international licence any car without charging.
for details) . There are also (available from your national
tourist routes, such as a morn- automobile association). Details of road and traffic
ing service from Ponte Marco- conditions (in Italian) are
ni to Ostia Antica. Accident rates on Italian available from a special Road
roads are high, so make sure Conditions number. More
CAR HIRE you are fully insured against information on driving and
all eventualities. It is a good parking is on page 391.

Major international firms Car hire office at Fiumicino airport
(Avis, Hertz, Europcar) and
Italy By Car Thrifty have rental
offices at the airports, Termini
station and in the city.
However, you may get a better
deal by booking a car before
you arrive through a travel
agent or tour operator, or by
using a local firm (such as
Maggiore). Check that break-
down service and collision
damage waiver are included.

DIRECTORY

BIKE AND MOPED TAXI BOOKING Also: Fiumicino airport. CAR BREAKDOWN
HIRE ADDRESSES NUMBERS Tel 06-6501 0879. SERVICES
Also: Stazione Termini.
Biciroma Airport Connection Map 6 D3. ACI Breakdown
Piazza del Popolo. Services Tel 06-488 2854. Tel 803 116.
Map 4 F1. Tel 06-338 3221.
Also: Piazza di Spagna. Hertz Autosoccorso
Map 5 A2. Cooperativa Via Gregorio VII 207. CARA
Also: Il Pincio in Villa Autoradiotaxi Tel 06-3937 8808. Via Salk 80.
Borghese. Map 4 F1. Romana 35-70 www.hertz.it Tel 06-332 0119
Tel 06-35 70. Also: Stazione Termini. (24-hour rescue service).
Collalti Map 6 D3.
Via del Pellegrino 82. Pianeta Taxi 2000 Tel 06-474 0389. Road Conditions
Map 4 E4 & 11 C4. Tel 06-88 22. Also: Fiumicino airport. Tel 1518.
Tel 06-6880 1084 (bikes). Tel 06-6501 1553.
Società la Capitale MAIN CAR PARKS
HR Radio Taxi Maggiore Acqua Acetosa station.
Via Piave 49. Map 6 D1. Tel 06-49 94. Stazione Termini. Map 2 E1.
Tel 06-4202 0675 Map 6 D3. Also: Lepanto Metro
(mopeds, scooters and CAR HIRE Tel 06-488 0049. station. Map 4 D1.
organised rides). ADDRESSES Also: Via Po 8A. Also: Villa Borghese.
Map 5 C1. Map 5 A1.
Scoot-a-Long Avis Tel 06-854 8698. Also: Piazzale dei
Via Cavour 302. Map 5 B5. Tel 199-100 133 (centralized www.maggiore.it Partigiani. Map 8 E4.
Tel 06-678 0206 (mopeds booking number).
and scooters). www.avis.com Italy By Car USEFUL 24-HOUR
Also: Ciampino airport. Thrifty PETROL STATIONS
Scooters for Rent Tel 06-7934 0195. Via Ludovisi 60.
Via della Purificazione 84. Also: Fiumicino airport. Map 5 B2. Trastevere
Tel 06-488 5485 (bikes Tel 06-6501 1531. Tel 06-482 0966. Lungotevere Ripa.
and mopeds). Also: Via Sardegna 38A. www.italybycar.it Map 8 D1.
Map 5 C1. Also: Fiumicino airport.
RIVER TRANSPORT Tel 06-4282 4728. Tel 06-6501 0347. Portuense
Also: Ciampino Piazza della Radio.
Battelli di Roma Europcar airport. Map 7 B5.
Tel 06-9774 5498. Tel 800 014410 (central- Tel 06-7934 0137.
www.battellidiroma.it ized free booking number).
www.europcar.it

396 STREET FINDER

STREET FINDER

Map references given with covered by the Street Finder.
sights, restaurants, hotels, This includes the sightseeing
shops and entertain-
ment venues refer to the maps areas (which are colour-coded)
in this section (see How the Map as well as the whole of central
References Work opposite). A Rome with all the districts
complete index of the street important for restaurants,
names and places of interest hotels and entertainment
marked on the maps follows on venues. Because the historic
pages 398–407. The key map centre is so packed with sights,
below shows the area of Rome there is a large-scale map of
this area on pages 11 and 12.

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The second reference KEY TO STREET FINDER
refers to the large-scale Major sight
maps of central Rome (11 Places of interest
& 12). It is read in exactly Railway station
the same way as the first.
q Metro station
The map continues
on map 8 of the
Street Finder.

@ Bus terminus

v Tram terminus

7 %.h00/350& ."$&--* - (0 $"3-0 /0/" 7*" 7*" h Main car parks
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3" / $ * 0 --" #03( 7*" " #03 7*" ."3*0 #OLLEGIO DI u Synagogue
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SCALE OF MAPS 11 & 12

0 metres 150

The key to the abbreviations used in 0 yards 1:7,600
the Street Finder is on page 398.
150

398

Street Finder Index

KEY TO ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THE STREET FINDER

B.go Borgo M.te Monte Reg. Regina
d. di, del, dell’, P. Piazza S. San, Sant’, Santa
P.etta Piazzetta S. M. Santa Maria
dello, della, dei, P.le Piazzale SS. Santi, Santissima
delle, degli Princ. Principe V. Via
Gall. Galleria P.ta Porta Vic. Vicolo
L.go Largo P.te Ponte V.le Viale
Lungot. Lungotevere

A Altoviti, Lungot. 4 D3 Arco del Monte, Baccelli, Viale Guido 8 F2

IV Novembre, Via 5 A4 degli & 11 A2 Via dell' 11 C4 continues 9 A3

XVII Olimpiade, Viale 1 B1 Alunno, Via Niccolò l' 1 A1 Arco della Pace, Baccina, Via 5 B5

XX Settembre, Via 5 B3 Amadei, Via 7 A4 Via dell' 11 C2 Bacone, Via Ruggero 1 C3

XXIV Maggio, Via 5 B4 Amari, Via Michele 10 E4 Arco di San Callisto, Baglivi, Via Giorgio 6 F1

Abruzzi, Via 5 C1 Amatriciani, Via dell' 7 C1 Balbo, Via Cesare 5 C4

Acaia, Via 9 C4 Vicolo degli 11 B2 Arco di Settimio Baldassini, 4 F3

Accademia d'America 7 A1 Amba Aradam, Severo 12 F5 Palazzo & 12 D2

Accademia Britannica 2 D4 Via dell' 9 B2 Arco di Tito 8 F1 Baldini, Via Baccio 7 B5

Accademia di 5 A3 Amendola, Via 6 D3 Ardea, Via 10 D2 Balestrari, Via dei 11 C4

San Luca & 12 F2 Amiterno, Via 9 C2 Area Sacra 4 F4 Balilla, Via 6 F5

Acerbi, Via Ammannati, Via dell'Argentina & 12 D4 Banca d'Italia 5 B4

Giuseppe 8 D5 Bartolomeo 1 C4 Arenula, Largo 4 F5 Banchi Nuovi, 4 D3

Acireale, Via 10 E1 Ancona, Via 6 D1 & 12 D4 Via dei & 11 A2

Acqua Acetosa, Anfiteatro Castrense 10 E1 Arenula, Via 4 F5 Banchi Vecchi, 4 D4

Lungot. dell' 1 C1 Angelico, Borgo 3 C2 & 12 D4 Via dei & 11 A3

Acqua Acetosa, Angelico, Viale 3 C1 Argentina, Via 1 C1 Banco di S. Spirito, 4 D4

Piazzale dell' 2 E1 Anglona, Via 9 B2 Argilla, Via 3 A5 Palazzo del & 11 A2

Acquasparta, Anguillara, Lungot. d. 8 D1 Ariosto, Via Ludovico 9 C1 Banco di Santo 4 D3

Via degli 11 C2 Anicia, Via 7 C1 Aristotele, Viale 3 A1 Spirito, Via del & 11 A2

Acquedotto Aniene, Via 6 D1 Armellini, Via 7 B2 Barberini (Metro) 5 B2

Neroniano 10 D1 Ankara, Piazzale 1 B3 Armenia, Piazza 10 D3 Barberini, Palazzo 5 B3

Acqui, Via 10 E3 Annia, Via 9 A1 Armi, Lungot. delle 1 B5 Barberini, Piazza 5 B3

Addolorata, Annia Faustina, Via 8 E4 Arminjon, Barberini, Via 5 B3

Ospizio dell' 9 B2 Annibaldi, Via degli 5 B5 Via Vittorio 3 B1 Barbieri, Via dei 12 D4

Adelaide, Via Maria 4 E1 Antiquarium Forense 5 B5 Arnaldo da Brescia, Barchetta, Via della 11 B4

Adria, Via 10 F3 Antonelli, Via Lungot. 4 E1 Bargoni, Via Angelo 7 B3

Adriana, Piazza 4 D3 Giovanni 2 D3 Arrigo VII, Largo 8 E2 Barletta, Via 3 C1

& 11 A1 Antonina, Via 9 A3 Artigiani, Baronio, Piazza

Agnesi, Largo Antoniniana, Via 9 A4 Lungot. degli 7 C4 Cesare 10 F5

Gaetana 5 B5 Antoniniano, Vicolo 9 A4 Artisti, Via degli 5 B2 Baronio, Via Cesare 10 E5

Agonistica, Via dell' 2 E1 Anzani, Largo 7 C3 Ascanio, Via d' 12 D2 Barrili, Via Anton

Aosta, Via 10 E2 Ascianghi, Via 7 C2 Giulio 7 A4

Alba, Via 10 E3 Apollodoro, Piazza 1 A2 Bartoli, Via Daniello 7 A4

Albalonga, Via 10 D3 Appia, Assisi, Via 10 F3

Albania, Piazza 8 E3 Circonvallazione 10 D4 Astalli, Via degli 5 A4 Bartolini, Via Paolo 1 B3

Albenga, Via 10 E3 Appia Antica, Via 9 B5 & 12 E4 Barzellotti, Via

Alberico II, Via 3 C2 Appia Nuova, Via 10 D2 Astura, Via 10 D3 Giacomo 3 A1

Alberone, Appio, Piazzale 10 D2 Atleta, Vicolo dell' 8 D1 Basilica Aemilia 5 B5

Piazza dell' 10 F4 Apulia, Via 9 C3 Auditorio di Mecenate 6 D5 Basilica di Costantino

Alberti, Via Aquila, Via l' 10 F1 Augusta, Lungot. in 4 E1 e Massenzio 5 B5

Leon Battista 8 F3 Aquiro, Via in 12 E2 Augusto Imperatore, Basilica Giulia 5 A5

Alberto, Via Carlo 6 D4 Aquitania, Via 9 C3 Piazza 4 F2 & 12 F5

Alcamo, Via 10 F2 Ara di Conso, Via 8 E2 Aurelia, Via 3 A3 Bassi, Via Ugo 7 B2

Aldega, Via G. 2 F5 Ara Pacis 4 F2 Aurelia Antica, Via 7 A1 Bastione del Sangallo 9 A4

Aldrovandi, Via Ara Pacis, Via 4 F2 Aureliana, Via 5 C2 Bastioni di

Ulisse 2 D5 Aracoeli, Piazza d' 5 A5 Aurelio, Piazzale 7 A1 Michelangelo, Viale 3 B2

Aleardi, Via 9 C1 & 12 E4 Aurora, Via 5 B2 Battistero 9 C2

Alesia, Via 9 B3 Aracoeli, Via d' 12 E4 Austria, Via 1 B1 Battisti, Via Cesare 12 F3

Alessandria, Piazza 6 D1 Aranciera, Viale dell' 2 D5 Aventina, Via 8 F3 Baullari, Via dei 4 E4

Alessandria, Via 6 D1 Arancio, Via dell' 4 F2 Aventino, Lungot. 8 D2 & 11 C4

Alessandrina, Via 5 A4 & 12 D1 Aventino, Viale 8 E3 Beccari, Viale O. 8 F4

Alessandro III, Via 3 B4 Archetto, Via dell' 12 F2 Avezzana, Via continues 9 A4

Alfieri, Via 6 D5 Archimede, Via 1 C3 Giuseppe 1 A5 Beccaria, Via Cesare 4 E1

Algardi, Arcione, Via in 5 A3 Avezzano, Via 10 F2 Bechi, Via Giulio 2 E2

Via Alessandro 7 A2 Arco dei Banchi, Avignonesi, Via degli 5 B3 Belgio, Via 1 B1

Alghero, Via 10 F1 Via dell' 11 A2 Azuni, Via Belgrado, Largo 1 C3

Alibert, Via 5 A2 Arco della Ciambella, Domenico Alberto 1 B5 Belgrado, Via Jacopo 7 A5

All Saints 4 F2 Via dell' 12 D3 Belisario, Via 6 D1

Allegri, Via Gregorio 2 F5 Arco di Costantino 8 F1 B Bellani, Via Angelo 7 B5

Allioni, Via Carlo 2 D3 Arco di Dolabella 9 A2 Babington's Belle Arti, Piazzale
Tea Rooms
Alpino, Via Prospero 8 F5 Arco di Druso 9 B4 delle 1 B4
Babuccio, Vicolo del
Altamura, Via 10 D2 Arco della Fontanella, Babuino, Via del 5 A2 Belle Arti, Viale delle 1 B4
12 F2
Altemps, Palazzo 4 E4 Via dell' 11 A2 continues Belli, Piazza
Baccarini, Via 4 F1
& 11 C2 Arco di Gallieno 6 D4 5 A2 Gioacchino 8 D1
Alfredo
Altieri, Palazzo 4 F4 Arco di Giano 8 E1 10 E4 Belli, Via Gioacchino 4 D2

& 12 E3 Arco de' Ginnasi, Bellini, Via Vincenzo 2 F4

Altino, Via 10 D3 Via dell' 12 E4 Bellotti Bon, Via L. 2 F2