Rome

PA L AT I N E 99

Cryptoporticus '036.
In this long
underground 1"-"5*/& $"3"$"--"
tunnel, built by "7&/5*/&
Nero, the stuccoes
that decorated
the walls and
vault have been
replaced with
copies 2

LOCATOR MAP
See Central Rome Map pp14–15

The Palatine
Museum is inside
a former convent,
and houses

tifacts from
ent Rome.

Stadium
Part of the Imperial
palace, this enclosure
may have been used by

the emperors as a
private garden 4

Via San Gregorio
entrance

The exedra of the Stadium
may have housed a balcony
for emperors to view races.

Baths of
eptimius
Severus

e Palace
Septimius
verus (reigned

193–211) was
extension of the
mus Augustana.
projected beyond the hillside,
quiring enormous arched supports.

palace

100 ROME AREA BY AREA

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST The central Aula Regia was a remains, and you can make
throne room decorated with out the shape of its two
Entrances & ticket kiosks: Via 12 black basalt statues. The courtyards. The far better-
di San Gregorio 30 and near third room (now covered preserved lower level is closed
the Arch of Titus on Via Sacra. with corrugated plastic) was to the public, though you can
Map 8 E1–8 F1. Tel 06-3996 the Lararium, a shrine for the look down on its sunken
7700. @ 75, 85, 87, 117, 175, household gods known as courtyard with the geometric
186, 810, 850 to Via dei Fori Lares (usually the owner’s foundations of a fountain in
Imperiali. v 3. Q Colosseo. ancestors). It may have been its centre. Sadly, you can’t see
Open 9am–1 hour before sunset used for official ceremonies the stairs linking the two levels
daily; last adm: 1 hour before or by the palace guards. (once lit by sunlight falling
closing. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. on a mirror-paved pool),
Adm charge (includes entry to Fearing assassination, nor the surrounding rooms,
the Palatine Museum and the Domitian had the walls of the paved with coloured marble.
Colosseum (see pp92–5). courtyard covered with shiny
89= marble slabs designed to act Stadium 4
as mirrors so that he could
Domus Flavia 1 see anyone lurking behind See Visitors’ Checklist.
him. In the event, he was
See Visitors’ Checklist. assassinated in his bedroom,
possibly on the orders of his
wife, Domitia. The courtyard
is now a pleasant place to
pause; the flower beds in the
centre follow the maze pattern
of a sunken fountain pool.

Cryptoporticus 2

See Visitors’ Checklist.

Marble pavement in the courtyard The Cryptoporticus, a series Stadium viewed from the south
of underground corridors,
of the Domus Flavia was built by Nero to connect The Stadium on the Palatine
his Domus Aurea (see p175) was laid out at the same time
In AD 81 Domitian, the third with the palaces of earlier as the Palace of Domitian. It
of the Flavian dynasty of emperors on the Palatine. A is not clear whether it was a
emperors, decided to build a further branch leading to the public stadium, a private track
splendid new palace on the Palace of Domitian was added for exercising horses, or
Palatine hill. But the western later. Its vaults are decorated simply a large garden. The
peak, the Germalus, was with delicate stucco reliefs – alcove in the eastern wall
covered with houses and tem- copies of originals now kept looks as though it may have
ples, while the eastern peak, in the Palatine’s museum. held a box from which the
the Palatium, was very steep. emperor could have watched
So the emperor’s Domus races. It is, however, known
architect, Rabirius, flattened Augustana 3 that the Stadium was used for
the Palatium and used the soil foot races by the Ostrogothic
to fill in the cleft between the See Visitors’ Checklist. king, Theodoric, in the 6th
two peaks, burying (and century – he added the small
preserving) a number of This part of Domitian’s oval-shaped enclosure at the
Republican-era houses. palace was called the Domus southern end of the site.
Augustana because it was
The palace had two wings – the private residence of the
one official (the Domus “august” emperors. On the
Flavia), the other private (the upper level a high brick wall
Domus Augustana). It was the
main Imperial palace for 300 Remains of the Domus Augustana and the Palace of Septimius Severus
years. At the front of the
Domus Flavia, the surviving
stubs of columns and frag-
ments of walls trace the
shapes of three adjoining
rooms. In the first of these, the
Basilica, Domitian dispensed
his personal brand of justice.

PA L AT I N E 101

House of Livia 5 can make out frescoed figures on the Palatine. In the 1940s
of griffins and other beasts, a series of holes was found
See Visitors’ Checklist. If closed, apply while the decor in the right- filled with earth lighter in
to custodian. hand room includes land- colour than the surrounding
scapes and cityscapes. soil. Archaeologists deduced
that these holes must originally
Temple of have held the supporting
Cybele 6 poles of three Iron Age huts –
the first foundations of Rome
See Visitors’ Checklist. (see pp18–19).

Other than a platform with a Farnese Gardens 8
few column stumps and

Fresco in the House of Livia capitals, there is little to see See Visitors’ Checklist.

of the Temple of Cybele, a

This house dating from the popular fertility goddess In the mid-16th century

1st century BC is one of the imported to Rome from Asia. Cardinal Alessandro Farnese,

best preserved on the The priests of the cult castrated grandson of Pope Paul III,

Palatine. It was probably part themselves in the belief that if bought the ruins of Tiberius’s

of the house in which the they sacrificed their own fer- palace on the Palatine. He

Emperor Augustus and his tility it would guarantee that filled in the ruined building

wife Livia lived. Compared of the natural world. and had Vignola, architect of

with later Imperial palaces, it The annual festival of Cybele, the interior of the Gesù church,

is a relatively modest home. in early spring, culminated design a garden for him. The

According to Suetonius, the with frenzied result was one of the first

biographer of Rome’s early eunuch-priests botanical gardens in Europe,

emperors, Augustus slept in slashing their its terraces linked by steps

the same small bodies to offer stretching from the House of

bedroom for 40 up their blood Vestal Virgins in the Forum to

years on a low to the god- the Palatine’s Germalus peak.

bed which had dess, and the The gardeners introduced a

“a very ordinary ceremonial number of plants to Italy and

coverlet”. He castration of Europe, among them Acacia

wore home- novice priests. farnesiana. Farnese was at

Detail of made clothes the centre of a glittering set

floor mosaic (woven by Livia, Statue of the which included a number of

his sister Octavia goddess Cybele courtesans, so the parties here

and daughter Julia), but he are likely to have been

was vain enough to wear somewhat unholy.
shoes with extremely thick
Huts of Romulus 7 The area was dug up during
soles to conceal the fact that the excavation of the Palatine

he was rather short. See Visitors’ Checklist. and re-landscaped afterwards.

The ground level of the Nevertheless the tree-lined

Palatine is now above the According to legend, after avenues, rose gardens and

house, so you walk down a killing his brother Remus, glorious views still make it an

flight of steps and along a Romulus founded a village ideal place to unwind.

mosaic-paved corridor

into a courtyard. Its

imitation-marble wall

frescoes have been

detached in order to

preserve them, but

they still hang in situ.

Though they are very

faded, you can still

make out the veining

patterns. Leading off

the courtyard are three

small reception rooms.

The frescoes in the

central one include a

faded scene of Hermes

coming to the rescue

of Zeus’s beloved Io,

who is guarded by the

100-eyed Argos. In the

left-hand room you Farnese pavilions, relics of the age when the Palatine was a private garden



ROME AREA BY AREA 103

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA

The Pantheon, one of the great Italian parliament and many
buildings in the history of nearby buildings are government
European architecture, has offices. This is also the main finan-

stood at the heart of Rome cial district of Rome with banking

for nearly 2,000 years. The historic headquarters and the stock

area around it has seen uninter- exchange. Not many people live

rupted economic and political here, but in the evenings, Romans

activity throughout that time. stroll in the narrow streets and fill

Palazzo di Montecitorio, built for the lively restaurants and cafés that

Pope Innocent XII as a papal Bitter-style apéritif, make this a focus for the
tribunal in 1694, is now the popular in Roman cafés city’s social life.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Churches and Temples Fountains GETTING THERE
Gesù pp114–15 9 Fontanella del Facchino 5 The area has no Metro station,
La Maddalena t Cafés and Restaurants but is about 20 minutes’ walk
Pantheon pp110–11 e Caffè Giolitti y from Spagna or Barberini
San Lorenzo in Lucina p Metro stops. Buses that stop
Sant’Eustachiot r KEY in Via del Plebiscito include
Sant’Ignazio di Loyola 3 Street-by-Street map the 46, 64, 70, 186, 492 and
Santa Maria in 810. Piazza Colonna is served
Q Metro station by the 117, 119, 492 and all
Campo Marzio i buses that go up Via del
Santa Maria sopra Minerva q 7*" %* 3*1&55" 7*" 50."$&--* Corso or stop at Piazza S.
Temple of Hadrian 1 Silvestro. The only bus that
passes through the narrow
Historic Streets and Piazzas streets of the area is the 116
Piazza di Sant’Ignazio 2 electric minibus, which stops
Via della Gatta 7 right outside the Pantheon.

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Piazza della Rotonda seen through the granite columns of the Pantheon

104 ROME AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Piazza della Rotonda

If you wander through this area, sooner or later you will

emerge into Piazza della Rotonda with its jumble of

open-air café tables in front of the Pantheon. The refreshing

splash of the fountain makes it a welcome resting place. In

this warren of narrow streets, it can be hard to realize just how Piazza di
Sant’Ignazio
close you are to some of Rome’s finest The square is a
rare example of
sights. The magnificent art collection of Temple of Hadrian stylish domestic
architecture
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj and the Baroque The columns of this from the early
18th century 2
splendour of the Gesù are just a few Roman temple now

minutes’ walk from the Pantheon. At night form the façade of the

there is always a lively buzz of activity, as stock exchange 1

people dine in style or enjoy

the coffee and ice creams for

which the area is famous.

La Tazza d’Oro enjoys aP
reputation for the wonderful
coffee consumed on itsI
premises as well as for
its freshly ground coffeeA
to take away. (See p330.)
Z
Santa Maria
sopra Minerva ZA
The rich decoration ROT
of Rome’s only Gothic
church was added in ODNE LDLAA
the 19th century q

. Pantheon
The awe-inspiring interior of
Rome’s best-preserved ancient
temple is only hinted at
from the outside e

Obelisk of Santa Maria
sopra Minerva
In 1667 Bernini dreamed up
the idea of mounting a recently
discovered obelisk on the back
of a marble elephant w

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 105

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LOCATOR MAP
See Central Rome Map pp14–15

. Sant’Ignazio di Loyola Palazzo del . Palazzo Doria
Andrea Pozzo painted this glorious Collegio Pamphilj
Baroque ceiling (1685) to celebrate Romano Among the masterpieces
Up until 1870, in the art gallery of this
St Ignatius and the Jesuit order 3 the college magnificent family
educated many palazzo is this portrait of
Fontanella del Facchino leading figures Pope Innocent X by
The water in this small 16th- in the Catholic Velázquez (1650) 6
Church 4
century fountain spurts
from a barrel held by
a porter 5

Via della Gatta
The street is

named after
the statue
of a cat 7

Palazzo Altieri
This enormous
17th-century
palazzo is
decorated with
the arms of Pope
Clement X 8

. Gesù
The design of the
first-ever Jesuit
church had a great
impact on religious

architecture 9

KEY STAR SIGHTS
. Pantheon
Suggested route . Sant’Ignazio di Loyola
. Palazzo Doria
0 metres 75 Pie’ di Marmo
0 yards 75 This marble foot is a stray Pamphilj
fragment from a gigantic
Roman statue 0 . Gesù

106 ROME AREA BY AREA

Temple of
Hadrian 1

La Borsa, Piazza di Pietra. Map 4 F3 & Illusionistic ceiling in the crossing of Sant’Ignazio
12 E2. @ 117, 119, 492 and routes
along Via del Corso or stopping at Piazza intimacy of the houses A cupola was planned but
S. Silvestro. Open for exhibitions. belonging to the bourgeoisie. never built, so the space it
The theatrical setting, the cur- would have filled was covered
This temple honours the vilinear design and the playful by a fake perspective painting.
emperor Hadrian as a god forms of its windows, balconies The piers built to uphold the
and was dedicated by his son and balusters mark the piazza cupola support the observato-
and successor Antoninus Pius as one of a highly distinct group ry of the Collegio Romano.
in AD 145. The remains of the of structures. Along with Palazzo
temple are visible on the Doria Pamphilj (1731), the Palazzo del
southern side of Piazza di façade of La Maddalena (1735) Collegio Romano 4
Pietra, incorporated in a 17th- and the aristocratic Spanish
century building. This was Steps (1723), it belongs to the Piazza del Collegio Romano. Map 5 A4
originally a papal customs moment when Rome’s bubbly & 12 E3. @ 117, 119, 492 and along
house, completed by Carlo Rococo triumphed over con- Via del Corso or stopping at Piazza
Fontana and his son in the servative Classicism. Venezia. Not open to the public.
1690s. Today the building
houses the Roman stock Sant’Ignazio di On the same block as the
exchange (La Borsa). Loyola 3 church of Sant’Ignazio is the
palazzo used by Jesuits as a
Eleven marble Corinthian Piazza di Sant’Ignazio. Map 4 F4 & college where many future
columns 15 m (49 ft) high 12 E3. Tel 06-679 44 06. @ 117, bishops, cardinals and popes
stand on a base of peperino, a studied. The college was con-
volcanic rock quarried from 119, 492 and along Via del Corso. fiscated in 1870 and turned
the Alban hills to the south of into an ordinary school. The
Rome. The columns decorat- Open 7.30am–12.15pm, 3–7.15pm portals bear the coat of arms
ed the northern flank of the daily. 5 of its founder, Pope Gregory
temple enclosing its inner XIII of Boncompagni (reigned
shrine, the cella. The peperino The church was built by Pope 1572–85). The façade is also
wall of the cella is still visible Gregory XV in 1626 in adorned with a bell, a clock,
behind the columns, as is part honour of St Ignatius of and two sundials. On the right
of the coffered portico ceiling. Loyola, founder of the Society is a tower built
of Jesus and the man who in 1787 as a
A number of reliefs from most embodied the zeal of meteorological
the temple, representing con- the Counter Reformation. observatory. Un
quered Roman provinces, are til 1925 its time
now in the courtyard of the Together with the Gesù (see signal regulated
Palazzo dei Conservatori pp114–15), Sant’Ignazio forms all the clocks
(see pp72–3). They reflect the the centre of the Jesuit area in within the city.
mostly peaceful foreign policy Rome. Its vast interior, lined
of Hadrian’s reign. with precious stones, marble, Portal of the
stucco and gilt, creates a
Remains of Hadrian’s Temple sense of theatre. The church Collegio Romano
has a Latin-cross plan, with an
Piazza di apse and many side chapels.
Sant’Ignazio 2

Map 4 F4 & 12 E3. @ 117, 119,
492 and routes along Via del Corso or
stopping at Piazza S. Silvestro.

One of the major works of
the Roman Rococo, the piazza
(1727–8) is Filippo Raguzzini’s
masterpiece. It offsets the
imposing façade of the church
of Sant’Ignazio with the

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 107

Fontanella del wing, a splendid chapel and a sculpture of a cat (gatta) that
Facchino 5 theatre inaugurated by Queen gives the street its name is on
Christina of Sweden in 1684. the first cornice on the corner
Via Lata. Map 5 A4 & 12 E3. @ 64, of Palazzo Grazioli.
81, 85, 117, 119, 492 and many In the first half of the 1700s,
other routes. Gabriele Valvassori Via della Gatta’s marble cat
created the gallery
Il Facchino (the Porter), once above the courtyard Palazzo Altieri 8
in the Corso, now set in the and a new façade
wall of the Banco di Roma, was along the Corso, Via del Gesù 93. Map 4 F4 & 12 E3.
one of Rome’s “talking statues” using the highly @ 46, 62, 63, 64, 70, 81, 87, 186,
like Pasquino (see p124). decorative style of 492 and routes along Via del
Created around 1590, the the period known Plebiscito and Corso Vittorio
fountain may have been based as the barocchetto, Emanuele II. v 8.
on a drawing by painter which now dominates the
Jacopino del Conte. The statue building. The stairways and The Altieri family is first
of a man holding a barrel salons, the Mirror Gallery and mentioned in Rome’s history
most likely represents a mem- the picture gallery all radiate in the 9th century. This
ber of the Università degli a sense of light and space. palazzo was built by the last
Acquaroli (Fraternity of Water- male heirs, the brothers
carriers), though it is also said The family collection in the Cardinal Giambattista di
to be of Martin Luther, or of Doria Pamphilj gallery has over Lorenzo Altieri and
the porter Abbondio Rizzio, 400 paintings dating from the Cardinal Emilio Altieri,
who died carrying a barrel. 15th to the 18th century, includ- who later became Pope
ing the famous portrait of Pope Clement X (reigned 1670–76).
The Facchino drinking fountain Innocent X Pamphilj by Many surrounding houses
Velázquez. There are also had to be demolished, but
Palazzo works by Titian, Caravaggio, an old woman called Berta
Doria Pamphilj 6 Lorenzo Lotto and Guercino. refused to leave, so her
The rooms in the private hovel was incorporated in the
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2. Map apartment have many of their palazzo. Its windows are
5 A4 & 12 E3. Tel 06-679 73 23. @ original furnishings, including still visible on the west end of
64, 81, 85, 117, 119, 492 and many splendid Brussels and Gobelin the building.
other routes. Open 10am–5pm Fri– tapestries. Occasionally, the gal-
Wed. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan, Easter lery hosts concerts and evening Gesù 9
Sun, 1 May, 15 Aug. Adm charge. visits of the collection.
7 8 for private apartments. 9 = See pp114–15.
- Concerts www.doriapamphilj.it Via della Gatta 7

Map 5 A4 & 12 E3. @ 62, 63, 64, 70,

81, 87, 186, 492 & routes along Via del

Plebiscito & Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

This narrow street runs bet-
ween the Palazzo Doria Pam-
philj and the smaller Palazzo
Grazioli. The ancient marble

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is a Caravaggio’s Rest during the Flight into Egypt in Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
great island of stone in the
heart of Rome, the oldest parts
dating from 1435. Through the
Corso entrance you can see the
16th-century porticoed court-
yard with the coat of arms of
the della Rovere family. The
Aldobrandini were the next
owners. Between 1601 and
1647 the mansion acquired a
second courtyard and flank-
ing wings at the expense of a
public bath that stood nearby.

When the Pamphilj family
took over, they completed the
Piazza del Collegio Romano
façade and the Via della Gatta

108 ROME AREA BY AREA

and works of art by which its Obelisk of Santa

many patrons wished to be Maria sopra
remembered. Note the Cosma-
tesque 13th-century tombs and Minerva w

the exquisite works of 15th-

century Tuscan and Venetian Piazza della Minerva. Map 4 F4 & 12

artists. Local talent of the D3. @ 116 and routes along Via del

period can be admired in Corso and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

Antoniazzo Romano’s

Annunciation, featuring Originally meant to decorate

Marble foot from a Roman statue Cardinal Juan de Palazzo Barberini as a joke,

Pie’ di Marmo 0 Torquemada, uncle of the this exotic elephant and

Via di Santo Stefano del Cacco. Map infamous Spanish Inquisitor. obelisk sculpture is typical
4 F4 & 12 E3. @ 62, 63, 64, 70, 81,
87, 116, 186, 492 and other routes The more monumental style of Bernini’s inexhaustible
along Via del Corso, Via del Plebiscito
and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. of the Roman Renaissance is imagination. (The elephant was

It was popularly believed in well represented in the tombs actually sculpted by Ercole
the Middle Ages that half the
population of ancient Rome of the 16th-century Medici Ferrata to Bernini’s design.)
was made up of bronze and
marble statues. Fragments of popes, Leo X and his cousin When the ancient obelisk
these giants, usually gods or
emperors, are scattered over Clement VII, and in the richly was found in the garden
the city. This piece, a marble
foot (pie’ di marmo), comes decorated Aldobrandini of the monastery of Santa
from an area dedicated to the
Egyptian gods Isis and Serapis Chapel. Near the steps of Maria sopra Minerva, the
and was probably part of a
temple statue. Statues were the choir is the celebrated friars wanted the monument
painted and covered with
jewels and clothes given by the sculpture of the Risen Christ, erected in their piazza. The
faithful – a great fire risk with
unattended burning tapers. started by Michelangelo but elephant was provided with

Santa Maria sopra completed by Raffaele da its enormous saddle-cloth
Minerva q
Montelupo in 1521. There because of a friar’s insis-
Piazza della Minerva 42. Map 4 F4
& 12 E3. Tel 06-679 39 26. are also splendid works of tence that the gap under
@ 116 and along Via del Corso,
Via del Plebiscito and Corso Vittorio art from the Baroque the animal’s abdomen
Emanuele II. Open 7am–7pm
Mon–Sat, 8am–1pm, 3–7pm Sun. period, including a tomb would undermine its
Cloister open 9am–12.30pm, 4–
6.30pm Mon–Sat. 5 9 Concerts. and a bust by Bernini. stability. Bernini knew

The church is also better: you need

visited because it only look at the

contains the tombs of Fontana dei

many famous Italians: Quattro Fiumi (see

St Catherine of Siena, p120) to appreciate

who died here in 1380; his use of empty

the Venetian sculptor space. The elephant,

Andrea Bregno (died an ancient symbol

1506); the Humanist of intelligence and

Cardinal Pietro Bembo piety, was chosen as

(died 1547); and Fra the embodiment of

Angelico, the Dominican Bernini’s Egyptian the virtues on which
friar and painter, who obelisk and Christians should

died in Rome in 1455. marble elephant build true wisdom.

Few other churches display Nave of Santa Maria sopra Minerva
such a complete and im-
pressive record of Italian art.
Dating from the 13th century,
the Minerva is one of the few
examples of Gothic architec-
ture in Rome. It was the
traditional stronghold of the
Dominicans, whose anti-
heretical zeal earned them the
nickname of Domini Canes
(the hounds of the Lord).

Built on ancient ruins,
supposed to have been the
Temple of Minerva, the
simple T-shaped vaulted
building acquired rich chapels

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 109

Pantheon e

See pp110–11.

Sant’Eustachio r

Piazza Sant’Eustachio. Map 4 F4 & 12
D3. Tel 06-686 5334. @ 116 and routes

along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Open
9am–noon, 3.30–7.45pm daily. 5

The origins of this church The old-fashioned salone of the Caffè Giolitti
date to early Christian times,
when it offered relief to the the 17th- and 18th-century Caffè Giolitti y
poor. In medieval times, many decorators who filled the
charitable brotherhoods interior with ornaments from Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40. Map 4 F3
elected Sant’Eustachio as their the floor to the top of the & 12 D2. Tel 06-699 12 43. @ 116
patron and had chapels here. elegant cupola. The organ loft and many routes along Via del Corso
and choir are particularly and Corso Rinascimento.
The Romanesque bell tower powerful examples of the Open 7am–1am daily.
is one of the few surviving Baroque’s desire to fire the
remains of the medieval imagination of the faithful. Founded in 1900, the Caffè
church, which was com- Giolitti is the heir to the
pletely redecorated in the Many of the paintings and Belle Époque cafés that lined
17th and 18th centuries. sculptures adopt the Christian the nearby Via del Corso in
imagery of the Counter- Rome’s first days as capital of
Nearby is the excellent Caffè Reformation. In the niches the new Italian state. Its salone
Sant’Eustachio (see p330). of the nave, the statues are holds tourists in summer and
personifications of virtues such Roman families at weekends,
Bell tower of Sant’Eustachio as Humility and Simplicity. and on weekdays is frequented
There are also scenes from the by local workers from a wide
La Maddalena t life of San Camillo, who died range of industries. Its ice
in the adjacent convent in creams are especially good.
Piazza della Maddalena. Map 4 F3 1614. The church belonged to
& 12 D2. Tel 06-899 281. @ 116 his followers, the Camillians, Palazzo
and many routes along Via del Corso a preaching order active in Baldassini u
and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Open Rome’s hospitals. Like the
8am–noon, 5–7.30pm daily. 5 Jesuits, they commissioned Via delle Coppelle 35. Map 4 F3 & 12
powerful works of art to D2. @ 116 and many routes along
Situated in a small piazza convey the force of their Via del Corso and Corso Rinascimento.
near the Pantheon, the religious message. Not open to the public.
Maddalena’s Rococo façade,
built in 1735, epitomizes the La Maddalena’s stuccoed façade Melchiorre Baldassini com-
love of light and movement of missioned Antonio da
the late Baroque. Its curves are Sangallo the Younger to
reminiscent of Borromini’s San build his home in Florentine
Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (see Renaissance style in 1514–20.
p161). The façade has been With its cornices marking the
lovingly restored, despite the different floors and wrought-
protests of die-hard Neo- iron window grilles, this is
Classicists who dismiss its one of the best examples of
painted stucco as icing sugar. an early 16th-century Roman
palazzo. It stands in the part
The small size of the of Rome still known as the
Maddalena did not deter Renaissance Quarter, which
flourished around the long
straight streets such as Via di
Ripetta and Via della Scrofa
built at the time of Pope Leo X
(reigned 1513–21).

110 ROME AREA BY AREA

Pantheon e

In the Middle Ages the Pantheon, the

Roman temple of “all the gods”,

became a church; in time this magnificent

building with its awe-inspiring domed

interior became a symbol of Rome itself.

The rectangular portico screens the

vast hemispherical dome: only from

inside can its true scale and beauty be

appreciated. The rotunda’s height and

diameter are equal: 43.3 m (142 ft).

The hole at the top of the dome, the

oculus, provides the only light. We owe . Interior of Dome
this marvel of Roman engineering to the The dome was cast by pouring concrete
emperor Hadrian, who designed it (AD mixed with tufa and pumice over a
118–125) to replace an earlier temple temporary wooden framework.
built by Marcus Agrippa,

son-in-law of Augustus.

The shrines that The walls of the drum
now line the wall supporting the dome
of the Pantheon are 6 m (19 ft) thick.
range from the

Tomb of Raphael to

those of the kings

of modern Italy.

The portico, enclosed by granite columns

The immense portico is
built on the foundations of
Agrippa’s temple.

STAR FEATURES
. Interior of the Dome

. Tomb of Raphael

Bell Towers
This 18th-century view
by Bernardo Bellotto
shows Bernini’s much-
ridiculed turrets, which
were removed in 1883.

Floor Patterning
The marble floor, restored
in 1873, preserves the
original Roman design.

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 111

RAPHAEL AND LA FORNARINA VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Raphael, at his own request, Piazza della Rotonda. Map 4 F4 &
was buried here when he died 12 D3. Tel 06-68 30 02 30. @
in 1520. He had lived for years 116 and routes along Via del Corso,
with his model, La Fornarina Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & Corso
(see p210), seen here in a del Rinascimento. Open 8.30am–
painting by Giulio Romano, 7.30pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun,
but she was excluded from the 9am–1pm pub hols. Closed 1 Jan,
ceremony of his burial. On the 1 May, 25 Dec. 5 7 =
right of his tomb is a memorial
to his fiancée, Maria Bibbiena,
niece of the artist’s patron,
Cardinal Dovizi di Bibbiena.

Oculus

Coffering
Constructing the dome from

hollow decorative coffers
reduced its weight.

Relieving Arches
Brick arches embedded in the

structure of the wall act as
internal buttresses, distributing

the weight of the dome.

. Tomb of Raphael
The artist’s body rests
below a Madonna by
Lorenzetto (1520).

TIMELINE

27–25 BC Inscription on pediment 1309–77 While papal 1888 Tomb of
Marcus 735 Gregory III seat is in Avignon, King Vittorio
Agrippa roofs the Pan- Pantheon is used as Emanuele II
builds first theon in lead a fortress and poultry completed
Pantheon
market 1600
30 BC AD 100 600
1100

118–25 609 Pope Boniface IV 663 Byzantine 1632 Urban VIII melts
Hadrian consecrates Pantheon Emperor Constans II down bronze from
builds new strips gilded tiles
Pantheon as church of Santa from the roof portico for Bernini’s
Maria ad Martyres baldacchino in St Peter’s

112 ROME AREA BY AREA

by Baroque chapels. Do not
miss the fine busts in the
Fonseca Chapel, designed by
Bernini, or the Crucifixion by
Guido Reni above the main
altar. There is also a 19th-
century monument honouring
French painter Nicolas
Poussin, who died in Rome in
1655 and was buried in the
church.

Palazzo di

Montecitorio a

Bernini’s curving southern façade of Palazzo di Montecitorio

Piazza di Montecitorio. Map 4 F3 &

Santa Maria in by the Italian state in 1902 12 E2. @ 116 and all routes along
Campo Marzio i and transferred to the Galleria Via del Corso or stopping at Piazza
Borghese (see pp260–61). S. Silvestro. Open 10am–6pm

Piazza in Campo Marzio 45. Map 4 F3 1st Sun each month; no bookings.
& 12 D2. @ 116 and many routes Tel 06-676 01. www.camera.it

on Via del Corso and Corso The palazzo’s first architect,
Rinascimento. Closed for renovation. Bernini, got the job after he

presented a silver model of

Around the courtyard through his design to the wife of his

which you enter the church, patron, Prince Ludovisi. The

there are fascinating remnants Pope Paul V, who commissioned building was completed in
of medieval houses, once the Palazzo Borghese for his family 1694 by Carlo Fontana and
property of the original became the Papal Tribunal of
monastery. The church itself Justice. In 1871 it was chosen
was rebuilt in 1685 by to be Italy’s new Chamber of
Antonio de Rossi, using a Deputies and by 1927 it had
square Greek-cross plan with doubled in size with a
a cupola. Above the altar is a second grand façade. The 630
12th-century painting of the members of parliament are

Madonna, which gives the San Lorenzo in elected by a majority system
church its name. Lucina p with proportional
representation.

Palazzo Via in Lucina 16A. Map 4 F3
Borghese o & 12 E1. Tel 06-687 14 94. @ 81,

117, 492, 628. Open 8am–8pm

Largo della Fontanella di Borghese. daily. 5
Map 4 F3 & 12 D1. @ 81, 117, 492,

628. Closed to the public. The church is one of

Rome’s oldest Christian

The palazzo was acquired places of worship, and was

in about 1605 by Cardinal probably built on a well

Camillo Borghese, just before sacred to Juno, protectress
he became Pope Paul V. of women. It was rebuilt
Flaminio Ponzio was hired to during the 12th century,
enlarge the building and give and today’s external
it the grandeur appropriate to appearance is quite typical
the residence of the pope’s of the period featuring a
family. He added a wing portico with re-used

overlooking Piazza Borghese Roman columns crowned

and the delightful porticoed by medieval capitals, a

courtyard inside. Subsequent plain triangular pediment

enlargements included the and a Romanesque bell

building and decoration of a tower with coloured The church of San Lorenzo in Lucina
great nymphaeum known as marble inlay.
the Bath of Venus. For more
than two centuries this palazzo The interior was totally
housed the Borghese family’s rebuilt in 1856–8. The
renowned collection of old basilical plan was
paintings, which was bought destroyed and the two
side naves were replaced

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 113

Emperor Augustus’s obelisk Column of Marcus easiest way to appreciate the
Aurelius d sculptural work, however, is
Obelisk of to visit the Museo della Civiltà
Montecitorio s Piazza Colonna. Map 5 A3 & 12 E2. Romana at EUR (see p266) and
@ 116 and routes along Via del study the casts of the reliefs.
Piazza di Montecitorio. Map 4 F3 &
12 E2. @ 116 and routes along Via Corso or to Piazza S. Silvestro. Palazzo
Capranica f
del Corso or to Piazza S. Silvestro. Clearly an imitation of the
Column of Trajan (see p90), Piazza Capranica. Map 4 F3 & 12 D2.
The measurement of time in this monument was erected @ 116 and routes along Via del
ancient Rome was always a after the death of Marcus Corso or to Piazza S. Silvestro.
rather hit-and-miss affair: for Aurelius in AD 180 to
many years the Romans relied commemorate his victories Windows of Palazzo Capranica
on an imported (and therefore over the barbarian tribes of
inaccurate) sundial, a trophy the Danube. The 80-year lapse One of Rome’s small number
from the conquest of Sicily. In between the two works pro- of surviving 15th-century
10 BC the Emperor Augustus duced a great artistic change: buildings, the palazzo was
laid out an enormous sundial the wars of Marcus Aurelius commissioned by Cardinal
in the Campus Martius. Its are rendered with simplified Domenico Capranica both as
centre was roughly in today’s pictures in stronger relief, his family residence and as a
Piazza di San Lorenzo in sacrificing Classical proportions college for higher education.
Lucina. The shadow was cast for the sake of clarity and Its fortress-like appearance is
by a huge granite obelisk that immediacy. The spirit of the a patchwork of subsequent
he had brought back from work is more akin to the 4th- additions, not unusual in the
Heliopolis in Egypt. Unfortun- century Arch of Constantine late 15th century, when Rome
ately this sundial too became (see p91) than to Trajan’s was still hovering between
inaccurate after only 50 years, monument. Gone are the medieval and Renaissance
possibly due to subsidence. heroic qualities of the Roman taste. The Gothic-looking
soldiers, by now mostly barbar- windows on the right of the
The obelisk was still in the ian mercenaries, and a sense building show the cardinal’s
piazza in the 9th century, but of respect for the vanquished. coat of arms and the date
then disappeared until it was A new emphasis on the 1451 is inscribed on the
rediscovered lying under supernatural points to the end doorway underneath. The
medieval houses in the reign of the Hellenistic tradition and palazzo is now a shell
of Pope Julius II (1503–13). the beginning of Christianity. housing a good restaurant.
The pope was intrigued,
because Egyptian hieroglyphs Composed of 28 drums of
were thought to hold the key marble, the column was
to the wisdom of Adam before restored in 1588 by Domenico
the Fall, but it was only under Fontana on the orders of Pope
Pope Benedict XIV (reigned Sixtus V. The emperor’s statue
1740–58) that the obelisk was on the summit was replaced
finally unearthed. It was by a bronze of St Paul. The
erected in its present location 20 spirals of the low relief
in 1792 by Pope Pius VI. chronicle the German war of
AD 172–3, and (above) the
Sarmatic war of AD 174–5.
The column is almost 30 m
(100 ft) high and 3.7 m (12 ft)
in diameter. An internal spiral
staircase leads to the top. The

Relief of the emperor’s campaigns on the Column of Marcus Aurelius

114 ROME AREA BY AREA

Gesù 9

Dating from between 1568 and 1584, . Chapel of

the Gesù was the first Jesuit church to Sant’Ignazio

be built in Rome. Its design epitomizes Above its altar is

Counter-Reformation Baroque architecture a statue of the

and has been much imitated throughout saint, framed by

the Catholic world. The layout proclaims gilded lapis lazuli

the church’s two major functions: a large columns. The

nave with side pulpits for preaching to chapel was built

great crowds, and a main altar as the in 1696–1700 by

centrepiece for the celebration of the Andrea Pozzo, a

mass. The illusionistic decoration in the Jesuit artist.

nave and dome was

added a century

later. Its message is Triumph of Faith Over Idolatry
clear and confident: This vivid Baroque allegory
faithful, Catholic sculpted by Théudon illustrates the
worshippers will be great ambition of Jesuit theology.
joyfully uplifted into

the heavens while

Protestants and

other heretics are

flung into hell’s fires.

ST IGNATIUS AND

THE JESUIT ORDER

Spanish soldier Ignatius
Loyola (1491–1556) joined
the Church after being
wounded in battle in 1521.
He came to Rome in 1537
and founded the Jesuits,
sending missionaries and
teachers all over the world to
win souls for Catholicism.

STAR FEATURES Main
. Chapel of entrance

Sant’Ignazio Allegorical Figures
Antonio Raggi made
. Monument to San these stuccoes, which were
Roberto Bellarmino designed by Il Baciccia to
complement the figures on
. Nave Ceiling his own nave frescoes.
Decorations

PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 115

Madonna VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
della Strada
This 15th-century Piazza delGesù. Map 4 F4 &
image, the Madonna 12 E4. Tel 06-69 70 01.
of the Road, was @ H, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81,
originally displayed 87, 186, 492, 628, 810
on the façade of and other routes. v 8.
Santa Maria della Open 7am–12.30pm, 4–7.15pm
Strada which once daily. 5
stood on this site.

. Monument to
San Roberto
Bellarmino

Bernini captured the
forceful personality of

this anti-Protestant
theologian, who
died in 1621.

The Chapel . Nave Ceiling
of St Francis Decorations
The figures in
Xavier is a Il Baciccia’s
memorial to the astonishing fresco of
great missionary who the Triumph of the
died alone on an island Name of Jesus spill
off China in 1552. out on to the coffered
vaulting of the nave.
Cupola
Frescoes
The cupola was
completed by della
Porta to Vignola’s
design. The frescoes,
by Il Baciccia,
feature Old
Testament figures.

TIMELINE

1540 Founding 1571 Giacomo della Porta’s 1696–1700 The 1773 Pope Clement
of the Society design chosen for the façade Chapel of Sant’ XIV orders the
of Jesus (the Ignazio is designed
Jesuits) 1584 Church’s by Andrea Pozzo, a suppression of the
consecration Jesuit order
Jesuit artist
1600 1700
1500

1545–63 Council 1568–71 Vignola builds 1622 Ignatius 1670–83 Giovanni Battista
of Trent defines the church up to the Loyola is Gaulli (Il Baciccia) paints
the new Catholic crossing under the canonized the nave vault, dome
patronage of Cardinal and apse
orthodoxy Alessandro Farnese

1556 Ignatius Loyola dies



ROME AREA BY AREA 117

PIAZZA NAVONA

The foundatio predominant style
buildings sur is Baroque, many of
the elongated buildings dating
Piazza Navona w reign of Innocent X
ruined grandstands of j (1644–55), patron
Stadium of Domitia nini and Borromini.
piazza still provide pecial interest is the
a dramatic spectacle mplex of the Chiesa
today with the obe uova, headquarters
lisk of the Fontana d the Filippini, the
Quattro Fiumi in fro San Filippo Neri, the
of Sant’ Agnese in Agone as its focal 16th-century “Apostle of Rome”.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Churches and Temples Historic Streets and Piazzas GETTING THERE
Chiesa Nuova t Piazza Navona 2 This central area is within
Oratorio dei Filippini y Via dei Coronari o walking distance of many
San Luigi dei Francesi 7 Via del Governo Vecchio r parts of the city and it is
San Salvatore in Lauro p easily reached by bus. The
Sant’Agnese in Agone 4 Restaurants principal routes along Corso
Sant’Andrea della Valle 0 Hostaria dell’Orso s Vittorio Emanuele II are the
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza 9 64 from Termini station to
Santa Maria dell’Anima 5 SEE ALSO St Peter’s and the 46. Corso
Santa Maria della Pace 6 • Street Finder, maps 4, 11, 12 del Rinascimento, which
• Where to Stay p301 runs parallel to Piazza
Museums • Restaurants pp317–18 Navona, is served by several
Museo Napoleonico a useful routes, including the
Palazzo Braschi w 70, 81, 116, 186 and 492.

Historic Buildings

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Palazzo Madama 8

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118 ROME AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Piazza Navona

No other piazza in Rome can Oratorio dei Filippini Torre dell’
rival the theatricality of Piazza The musical term Orologio
Navona. Day and night there is oratorio comes from This clock tower by
always something going on in this place of informal Borromini (1648) is
the pedestrian area around its worship y part of the Convent
three flamboyant fountains. The of the Filippini u
Baroque is also represented in
many of the area’s churches. To
discover an older Rome, walk
along Via del Governo Vecchio
to admire the façades of its
Renaissance buildings and
browse in the fascinating
antiques shops.

Chiesa Nuov
This church wa
rebuilt in the late
16th century for th
order founded by
San Filippo Neri t

To Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II

Via del
Governo Vecchio
This street preserves
a large number of fine
Renaissance houses r

Santa Maria della Pace Pasquino
This medallion shows Pope Romans hung
Sixtus IV who reigned 1471–84 satirical verses
and under whose orders the and dialogues on this
church was built 6 weather-beaten statue e

STAR SIGHTS Palazzo Pamphilj
. San Luigi dei This grand town house was built
for Pope Innocent X and his
Francesi family in the mid-17th century 3

. Piazza Navona Palazzo Braschi
A late 18th-century
. Sant’Andrea building with a
della Valle splendid balcony, the
palazzo houses the
KEY Museo di Roma w

Suggested route Palazzo Massimo
alle Colonne
0 metres 75 The magnificent
curving colonnade
0 yards 75 (1536) is by
Baldassarre
Peruzzi q

P I A Z Z A N AV O N A 119

Sant’Agnese 7"5*$"/ 1*";;" %&--"
in Agone 5F W F S F 3050/%"
Borromini’s
startling concave 1*";;"
façade (1657) /"70/"
dominates one side $".10 %&h
of Piazza Navona 4 '*03*

Santa Maria dell’Anima Palazzo Madama LOCATOR MAP
See Central Rome Map pp14–15
For four centuries this A spread-eagled

has been the German stone lion skin

church in Rome 5 decorates the

central doorway

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi of the palazzo,
This fountain supporting now the Italian
an Egyptian obelisk was
Senate 8

designed by Bernini 1

. San Luigi dei Francesi
An 18th-century statue
of St Louis stands in a
niche in the façade 7

The Fontana del . Piazza Navona
Moro was remodelled This unique piazza
owes its shape to a
in 1653 by Bernini, Roman racetrack and
who designed the its stunning decor to
the genius of the
central sea god. Roman Baroque 2

Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza
This tiny domed church

is one of Borromini’s
most original creations.
He worked on it between

1642 and 1650 9

A . Sant’Andrea della Valle
LE The church, with its grandiose façade
by Carlo Rainaldi (1665), has gained
To Campo de’ Fiori fame outside Rome as the setting of
the first act of Puccini’s Tosca 0

120 ROME AREA BY AREA

Fontana dei and atmosphere were created
Quattro Fiumi 1 in the 17th century with the
addition of the Fontana dei
Piazza Navona. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3. Quattro Fiumi. The other
@ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, fountains date from the pre-
628. vious century but have been
altered several times since.
Built for Pope Innocent X Palazzo Pamphilj, the largest The basin of the Fontana di
Pamphilj, this magnificent building in Piazza Navona Nettuno, at the northern end,
fountain in the centre of was built by Giacomo della
Piazza Navona was unveiled athletic figure of the River Porta in 1576, while the
in 1651. The pope’s coat of Plate, cringing with arm statues of Neptune and the
arms, the dove and the olive upraised, is supposed to Nereids date from the 19th
branch, decorate the pyramid express Bernini’s fear that the century. The Fontana del
rock formation supporting the church will collapse. Sadly, Moro, at the southern end,
Roman obelisk, which once these widely believed stories was also designed by della
stood in the Circus of can have no basis in fact: Porta, though Bernini altered
Maxentius on the Appian Bernini had completed the it later, adding a statue of a
Way. Bernini designed the fountain before Borromini Moor fighting a dolphin.
fountain, which was paid for started work on the church.
by means of taxes on bread Up until the 19th century,
and other staples. The great Piazza Navona 2 Piazza Navona was flooded
rivers – the Ganges, the during August by stopping
Danube, the Nile and the Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. @ 46, 62, 64, the fountain outlets. The
River Plate – are represented 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628. rich would splash around
by four giants. The Nile’s in carriages, while street
veiled head symbolizes the urchins paddled after them.
river’s unknown source, but Today, with its numerous
there is also a legend that the shops and cafés, the piazza is
veil conveys Bernini’s dislike a favourite in all seasons. In
for the nearby Sant’Agnese in summer it is busy with street
Agone, designed by his rival entertainers, while in winter
Borromini. Similarly, the it fills with colourful stalls
selling toys and sweets for
Rome’s most beautiful the feast of the Befana.
Baroque piazza follows the
shape of Domitian’s Stadium Palazzo Pamphilj 3
which once stood on this site
– some of its arches are still Piazza Navona. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3.
visible below the church of @ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492,
Sant’Agnese in Agone. The 628. Not open to the public.

agones were athletic Family dove and olive branch on
contests held in the façade of Palazzo Pamphilj
1st-century stadium,
which could seat In 1644 Giovanni Battista
33,000 people. The Pamphilj became Pope
word “Navona” Innocent X. During his 10-
is thought to be a year reign, he heaped riches
corruption of in on his own family, especially
agone. The piazza’s his domineering sister-in-law,
unique appearance Olimpia Maidalchini. The
“talking statue” Pasquino (see
Symbolic figure of the River Ganges in the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi p124) gave her the nickname
“Olim-Pia”, Latin for “formerly
virtuous”. She lived in the
grand Palazzo Pamphilj,
which has frescoes by Pietro
da Cortona and a gallery by
Borromini. The building is
now the Brazilian embassy
and cultural centre.

P I A Z Z A N AV O N A 121

Sant’Agnese
in Agone 4

Piazza Navona. Map 4 E4 & 11 C3. Carlo Saraceni’s Miracle of St Benno and the Keys of Meissen Cathedral
Tel 06-6819 2134. @ 46, 62, 64,
70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628. tomb by Baldassarre Peruzzi causing it to bleed. Pope
Open 9am–noon, 4–7pm Tue–Sun. in Santa Maria dell’Anima. It Sixtus IV della Rovere
57 (reigned 1471–84) placated
stands to the right of the Virgin by ordering Baccio
This church is believed to Giulio Romano’s Pontelli to build her a church
have been founded on the damaged altarpiece and if she would bring the war
site of the brothel where, in with Turkey to an end. Peace
AD 304, the young St Agnes is redolent of the was restored and the church
was exposed naked to force pagan Renaissance was named Santa Maria della
her to renounce her faith. A spirit the pope had so Pace (St Mary of Peace).
marble relief in the crypt condemned during
shows the miraculous growth his brief, rather The cloister was added by
of her hair, which fell around gloomy reign, when Bramante in 1504. As in his
her body to protect her patronage of the arts famous Tempietto (see p219),
modesty. She was martyred ground to a halt. Santa he scrupulously followed
on this site and is buried Maria dell’Anima is Classical rules of proportion
in the catacombs that bear the German church in and achieved a monumental
her name along the Via Rome and some of its effect in a relatively small
Nomentana (see p264). paintings, such as the space. Pietro da Cortona
Miracle of St Benno by may have had Bramante’s
Today’s church was Carlo Saraceni (1618), Tempietto in mind when he
commissioned by Pope illustrate events connected added the church’s charming
Innocent X in 1652. The first with the history of Germany. semi-circular portico in 1656.
architects were father and The interior, a short nave
son, Girolamo and Carlo Santa Maria della ending under an octagonal
Rainaldi, but they were Pace 6 cupola, houses Raphael’s
replaced by Borromini famous frescoes of four Sybils,
in 1653. He stuck Vicolo dell’Arco della Pace 5. and four Prophets by his pupil
more or less to the Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. Tel 06-686 Timoteo Viti, painted for the
Rainaldi scheme 1156. @ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, banker Agostino Chigi in
except for the 116, 492, 628. Open 10am–noon 1514. Baldassarre Peruzzi also
concave façade Tue–Fri. 5 7 2 steps. did some work in the church
designed to Exhibitions, concerts. (fresco in the first chapel on
emphasize the the left), as did the architect
dome. A statue A drunken soldier allegedly Antonio da Sangallo the
of St Agnes on the pierced the breast of a Younger, who designed the
façade is said to painted Madonna on this site, second chapel on the right.
be reassuring
the Fontana dei
Quattro Fiumi’s
statue of the River
Plate that the
church is stable.

Statue of St Agnes

on façade of Sant’

Agnese in Agone

Santa Maria
dell’Anima 5

Via Santa Maria dell’Anima 66.
Map 4 E4 & 11 C2. Tel 06-682
8181. @ 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87,
116, 492, 628. Open 9am–1pm,
3–7pm daily. 5 7

Pope Adrian VI (reigned
1522–3), son of a ship-builder
from Utrecht, was the last
non-Italian pope before
John Paul II. He would have
disapproved of his superb

122 ROME AREA BY AREA

San Luigi dei
Francesi 7

Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi 5. Caravaggio, whose paintings of St Matthew hang in San Luigi dei Francesi
Map 4 F4 & 12 D2. Tel 06-68 82 71.
@ 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 492, 628. The palazzo takes its name Sant’Ivo alla
Open 8am–12.30pm, 3.30–7pm from Madama Margherita of Sapienza 9
daily. Closed Thu pm. 5 = ^ Austria, illegitimate daughter
of Emperor Charles V, who Corso del Rinascimento 40.
The French national church married Alessandro de’ Medici
was founded in 1518, but it and, after his death, Ottavio Map 4 F4 & 12 D3. Tel 06-686
took until 1589 to complete, Farnese. Thus part of the art 4987. @ 40, 46, 64, 70, 81,
with contributions by Giaco- collection of the Florentine
mo della Porta and Domenico Medici family was inherited 87, 116, 186, 492, 628.
Fontana. The church serves as by the Roman Farnese family. Open 9am–noon Sun. 5
a last resting place for many
illustrious French people, The spectacular façade was The church’s lantern
including Chateaubriand’s built in the 17th century by is crowned with a
lover Pauline de Beaumont. Paolo Maruccelli. He gave it an cross on top of a
ornate cornice and whimsical dramatic twisted
Three Caravaggios hang in decorative details on the roof. spiral – a highly
the fifth chapel on the left, all Since 1871 the palazzo has distinctive land-
dedicated to St Matthew. been the seat of the upper mark from
Painted between 1597 and house of the Italian parliament. Rome’s roof
1602, these were Caravaggio’s terraces. No
first great religious works: the Cornice of Palazzo Madama other Baroque
Calling of St Matthew, the church is
Martyrdom of St Matthew and quite like this Lantern and spire
St Matthew and the Angel. one, made of Sant’Ivo
The first version of this last by Borro-
painting was rejected because mini. Based on a ground
of its vivid realism; never design of astonishing
before had a saint been geometrical complexity, the
walls are a breathtaking
shown as a tired combination of concave and
old man with convex surfaces. The church
dirty feet. All stands in the small courtyard
three works of the Palazzo della Sapienza,
display very seat of the old University of
disquieting Rome from the 15th century
realism and until 1935.
a highly
dramatic use
of light.

Shield linking symbols of France

and Rome on façade of San Luigi

Palazzo Madama 8

Corso del Rinascimento. Map 4 F4 &
12 D3. Tel 06-670 61. @ 70, 81,
87, 116, 186, 492, 628. Open
10am–6pm first Sat of month.
www.senato.it

This 16th-century palazzo was
built for the Medici family,
who had owned a bank here
in the previous century. It
was the residence of Medici
cousins Giovanni and Giuliano,
both of whom became popes:
Giovanni as Leo X and Giuli-
ano as Clement VII. Caterina
de’ Medici, Clement VII’s niece,
also lived here before she was
married to Henry, son of King
Francis I of France, in 1533.

P I A Z Z A N AV O N A 123

Sant’Andrea della of scenes from the life of St coat of arms is borne by an
Valle 0 Andrew around the apse and infant Hercules. Over the years
altar. In the Strozzi Chapel, the family produced many
Piazza Sant’Andrea della Valle. Map 4 built in the style of great Humanists, and in the
E4 & 12 D4. Tel 06-686 1339. @ H, Michelangelo, the altar has 19th century, it was a Massimo
40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, copies of the Leah and Rachel who negotiated peace with
492, 628. v 8. Open 7.30am– by Michelangelo in San Pietro Napoleon. On 16 March each
noon, 4.30pm–7.30pm daily. 5 in Vincoli (see p170). year the family chapel opens
to the public to commemorate
Palazzo Massimo young Paolo Massimo’s resur-
alle Colonne q rection from the dead by San
Filippo Neri in 1538.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 141. Palazzo Braschi w
Map 4 F4 & 11 C3. @ 40, 46, 62,
64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 492, 628. Piazza San Pantaleo 10. Map 4 E4
Chapel open 7am–noon 16 Mar. & 11 C3. Tel 06-6710 8346. @ 40,
46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 492,
628. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun (ticket
office closes at 6pm). 7 8 9 =

On one side of Piazza San

Pantaleo is the last Roman

palazzo to be built for the

family of a pope. Palazzo

Braschi was built in the late

Dome of Sant’Andrea della Valle 18th century for Pope Pius

The church is the scene of VI Braschi’s nephews by the
the first act of Puccini’s opera
Tosca, though opera fans architect Cosimo Morelli. He
will not find the Attavanti
chapel, a poetic invention. gave the building its imposing
The real church has much
to recommend it – the façade which looks out on
impressive façade shows the
flamboyant Baroque style at to the piazza.
its best. Inside, a golden light
filters through high windows, The palazzo now houses
showing off the gilded interi-
or. Here lie the two popes Roman column, Palazzo Massimo the municipal Museo di
of the Sienese Piccolomini
family: on the left of the Roma. It holds collections
central nave is the tomb of
Pius II, the first Humanist During the last two years of of pictures, drawings and
pope (reigned 1458–64);
Pope Pius III lies opposite – his life, Baldassarre Peruzzi everyday objects
he reigned for less than a
month in 1503. built this palazzo for the illustrating life

The church is famous for its Massimo family, whose home in the city from
beautiful dome, the largest in
Rome after St Peter’s. It was had been destroyed in the medieval times
built by Carlo Maderno in
1622–5 and was painted 1527 Sack of Rome. Peruzzi until the 19th
with splendid frescoes by
Domenichino and Giovanni displayed great ingenuity in century.
Lanfranco. The latter’s
extravagant style, to be seen dealing with an awkwardly
in the dome fresco Glory of
Paradise, won him most of shaped site. The previous
the commission, and the
jealous Domenichino is said building had stood on the
to have tried to kill his
colleague. He failed, but ruined Theatre of Domitian,
Domenichino’s jealousy was
unnecessary, as shown by which created a curve in the
his two beautiful paintings
great processional Via Papalis.

Peruzzi’s convex colonnaded

façade follows the line of the

street. His originality is also

evident in the small square

upper windows, the court-

yard and the stuccoed

vestibule. The Piazza de’

Massimi entrance has

a Renaissance-style,

frescoed façade. A

single column from

the theatre has been

set up in the piazza.

The Massimo family

traced its origins to

Quintus Fabius

Maximus, conqueror

of Hannibal in the 3rd Angel with raised wing by Ercole Ferrata,

century BC, and their flanking the façade of Sant’Andrea della Valle

124 ROME AREA BY AREA

Pasquino e statue” (renamed Pasquino) Chiesa Nuova t
were part of popular culture up
Piazza di Pasquino. Map 4 E4 & until the 19th century. Other Piazza della Chiesa Nuova.
11 C3. @ 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, statues started to “talk” in the Map 4 E4 & 11 B3. Tel 06-687 52
87, 116, 492, 628. same vein; Pasquino used to 89. @ 40, 46, 62, 64. Open
conduct dialogues with the 8am–noon, 4.30–7pm daily. 5
statue Marforio in Via del
Campidoglio (now in the court-
yard of Palazzo Nuovo, see
pp70–71) and with the Babuino
in Via del Babuino (see p135).
Pasquino still speaks on
occasion and Rome’s English-

language cinema is named
after him (see p361).

Via del Governo
Vecchio r

Map 4 E4 & 11 B3.
@ 40, 46, 62, 64.

Pasquino, the most famous of The street takes its name Façade of the Chiesa Nuova
from Palazzo del Governo
Rome’s satirical “talking statues” Vecchio, the seat of papal San Filippo Neri (St Philip
government in the 17th and Neri) is the most appealing of
This rough chunk of marble 18th centuries. Once part of the Counter-Reformation
is all that remains of a the Via Papalis, which led saints. A highly unconventional
Hellenistic group, probably from the Lateran to St Peter’s, reformer, he required his
representing the incident in the street is lined with 15th- noble Roman followers to
Homer’s Iliad in which Mene- and 16th-century houses and humble themselves in public.
laus shields the body of the small workshops. Particularly He made aristocratic young
slain Patroclus. For years it interesting are those at No. men parade through the
lay as a stepping stone in a 104 and No. 106. The small streets of Rome in rags or even
muddy medieval street until it palazzo at No. 123 was once with a fox’s tail tied behind
was erected on this corner in them, and set noblemen to
1501, near the shop of an thought to have been the work as labourers building
outspoken cobbler named home of Bramante. his church. With the help of
Pasquino. Freedom of speech Opposite is Palazzo del Pope Gregory XIII, his church
was not encouraged in papal Governo Vecchio. It is was built in place of an old
Rome, so the cobbler wrote also known as Palazzo medieval church, Santa Maria
out his satirical comments on Nardini, from the name of in Vallicella, and it has been
current events and attached known ever since as the
them to the statue. its founder, which is inscribed Chiesa Nuova (new church).
on the first-floor windows
Other Romans followed suit, along with the date 1477. Begun in 1575 by Matteo da
hanging their maxims and Città di Castello and continued
verses on the statue by night to Via del Governo Vecchio by Martino Longhi the Elder,
escape punishment. Despite it was consecrated in 1599
the wrath of the authorities, (although the façade, by Fausto
the sayings of the “talking Rughesi, was only finished
in 1606). Against San Filippo’s
wishes, the interior was
decorated after his death;
Pietro da Cortona frescoed the
nave, dome and apse, taking
nearly 20 years. There are
also three paintings by Rubens:
Madonna and Angels above
the altar, Saints Domitilla,
Nereus and Achilleus on the
right of the altar, and Saints
Gregory, Maurus and Papias
on the left. San Filippo is
buried in his own chapel, to
the left of the altar.

P I A Z Z A N AV O N A 125

Borromini’s façade of the Oratorio Filippo Neri came to Rome sides convex. The mosaic of
aged 18 to work as a tutor. the Madonna beneath the
Oratorio dei The city was undergoing a clock is by Pietro da Cortona,
Filippini y period of religious strife and while on the corner of the
an economic slump after the building is a small tabernacle
Piazza della Chiesa Nuova. Sack of Rome in 1527. There to the Madonna flanked by
Map 4 E4 & 11 B3. @ 46, 62, was also an outbreak of angels in the style of Bernini.
64. Closed for restoration. the plague. It was left to
newcomers like Neri and Pietro da Cortona (1596–1669)
With the adjoining church and Ignazio di Loyola to revive
convent, the oratory formed the spiritual life of the city. Palazzo del Banco
the centre of Filippo Neri’s di Santo Spirito i
religious order, which was Neri formed a brotherhood
founded in 1575. Its members of laymen who worshipped Via del Banco di Santo Spirito.
are commonly known as together and helped pilgrims Map 4 D4 & 11 A2. @ 40, 46, 62,
Filippini. The musical term and the sick (see Santissima 64. Open normal banking hours.
“oratorio” (a religious text Trinità dei Pellegrini p147).
sung by solo voices and He founded the Oratory as a Formerly the mint of papal
chorus) derives from the centre for religious discourse. Rome, this palazzo is often
services that were held here. Its conspicuous curving brick referred to as the Antica
façade was built by Borromini Zecca (old mint). The upper
in 1637–43. storeys of the façade, built
by Antonio da Sangallo the
Torre dell’ Younger in the 1520s, are
Orologio u in the shape of a Roman
triumphal arch. Above it
Piazza dell’Orologio. Map 4 E4 & stand two Baroque statues
11 B3. @ 40, 46, 62, 64. symbolizing Charity and Thrift,
and in the centre of the arch
Borromini built this clock above the main entrance an
tower to decorate one inscription records the
corner of the Convent of the founding of the Banco di
Oratorians of San Filippo Neri Santo Spirito by Pope Paul V
in 1647–9. It is typical of Borghese in 1605.
Borromini in that the front
and rear are concave and the Pope Paul was a very shrewd
financier and he encouraged
Facade of the Banco di Santo Spirito, built to resemble a Roman arch Romans to deposit their
money at the bank by offering
the vast estates of the Hospital
of Santo Spirito (see p226) as
security. The system catered
only for the rudimentary
banking requirements of the
population, but business was
brisk as people deposited
money here safe in the
knowledge that they could
get it out simply by presenting
a chit. The hospital coffers
also gained from the system.
The Banco di Santo Spirito
still exists, but is now part of
the Banca di Roma.

126 ROME AREA BY AREA

Via dei Coronari o Museo
Napoleonico a
Map 4 D3 & 11 B2. @ 40, 46, 62,
64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 280, 492. Cloister, San Salvatore in Lauro Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1. Map 4 E3
& 11 C1. Tel 06-6880 6286.
Large numbers of medieval San Salvatore in @ 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 280, 492.
pilgrims making their way to Lauro p Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun.
St Peter’s walked along this Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
street to cross over the Tiber Piazza San Salvatore in Lauro 15. Adm charge. ^ 8 =
at Ponte Sant’Angelo. Of the
businesses that sprang up to Map 4 E3 & 11 B2. Tel 06-687 51 This museum contains memo-
try to part the pilgrims from 87. @ 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 280, rabilia and portraits of Napo-
their money, the most endur- leon Bonaparte and his
ing was the selling of 492. Open 4.45–7pm daily; also family. Personal relics of
rosaries, and the street is still 8am–1pm Sun. 5 Napoleon himself include an
named after the rosary sellers Indian shawl he wore during
(coronari). The street fol- The church is named “in his exile on St Helena.
lowed the course of the Lauro” after the laurel
ancient Roman Via Recta grove that grew here in After his death in 1821, the
(straight street), which origi- ancient times. The church pope allowed many of the
nally ran from today’s Piazza standing here today was Bonaparte family to settle in
Colonna to the Tiber. constructed at the end of the Rome, including his mother
16th century by Ottaviano Letizia, who lived in Palazzo
Making one’s way through Mascherino. The bell tower Misciattelli on Via del Corso,
the vast throng of people in and sacristy were 18th- and his sister Pauline who
Via dei Coronari could be century additions by Nicola married the Roman Prince
extremely hazardous. In the Salvi, famous for the Trevi Camillo Borghese. The
Holy Year of 1450, some 200 Fountain (see p159). museum has a cast of her
pilgrims died, crushed by the right breast, made by Canova
crowds or drowned in the The church contains the in 1805 as a study for his
Tiber. Following the tragedy, first great altarpiece by the statue of her as a reclining
Pope Nicholas V demolished 17th-century artist Pietro da Venus, now in the Museo
the Roman triumphal arch Cortona, The Birth of Jesus, in Borghese (see p261). Portraits
that stood at the entrance to the first chapel to the right. and personal effects of other
Ponte Sant’Angelo. In the late members of the family are on
15th century, Pope Sixtus IV The adjacent convent of display, including uniforms,
encouraged the building of San Giorgio, to the left, has a court dresses, and a penny-
private houses and palaces pretty Renaissance cloister, farthing bicycle that belonged
along the street. a frescoed refectory and the to Prince Eugène, the son of
monument to Pope Eugenius Emperor Napoleon III.
Although the rosary sellers IV (reigned 1431–47),
have been replaced by moved here when the old The last male of the Roman
antiques dealers, the street St Peter’s was pulled down. branch of the family was
still has many original An extravagant Venetian, Napoleon Charles, portrayed
buildings from the 15th and Eugenius would willingly in a late 19th-century painting
16th centuries. One of the spend thousands of ducats on by Guglielmo de Sanctis. The
earliest, at Nos. 156–7, is his gold tiara, but requested collection was assembled in
known as the House of a “simple, lowly burial place” 1927 by the Counts Primoli,
Fiammetta, the mistress near his predecessor Pope the sons of Charles’s sister,
of Cesare Borgia. Eugenius III. His portrait, Carlotta Bonaparte.
painted by Salviati, hangs
Antiques shop, Via dei Coronari in the refectory. Façade of San Salvatore in Lauro

In 1669 the church became
the seat of a pious association,
the Confraternity of the
Piceni, who were inhabitants
of the Marche region. Fanati-
cally loyal to the pope, the
Piceni were traditionally
employed as papal soldiers
and tax collectors.

P I A Z Z A N AV O N A 127

The palace next door, in Via
Zanardelli, houses the Racolta
Praz, an impressive selection
of over a thousand objets d’art,
paintings and pieces of furni-
ture. Dating from the 17th
and 18th centuries, they were
collected by the art historian
and literary critic Mario Praz.

Side relief of the Ludovisi Throne, Palazzo Altemps

Entrance to Museo Napoleonico Restored as a museum during the Greek original. On the
the 1990s, the palazzo was first floor, at the far end of the
Hostaria originally built for Girolamo courtyard, visitors can admire
dell’Orso s Riario, nephew of Pope Sixtus the Painted Loggia, dating
IV in 1480. The Riario coat of from 1595. The Ludovisi
Via dei Soldati 25. Map 4 E3 & 11 C2. arms can still be seen in the throne, a Greek original
@ 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 204, 280, janitor’s room. In the popular carved in the 5th century BC,
492, 628. Open 8pm–1am Mon–Sat. uprising that followed the is on the same floor. It is
pope’s death in 1484, the decorated with reliefs, one
This ancient inn has a 15th- building was sacked and of which shows a young
century portico and loggia Girolamo fled the city. woman rising from the sea,
built with columns taken from who is thought to represent
Roman ruins. Luminaries who In 1568 the palazzo was Aphrodite. In the room which
have used the inn include the bought by Cardinal Marco is known as the Salone del
16th-century French writers Sittico Altemps. His family was
Rabelais and Montaigne. Dante of German origin – the name is Camino is the powerful
is also said to have stayed here. an Italianization of Hohenems statue Galatian’s Suicide,
– and influential in the
Palazzo Altemps d church. The palazzo was a marble copy of a
renovated by Martino group originally made
Piazza Sant’Apollinare 46. Map 4 E3 Longhi the Elder in in bronze. Nearby is the
& 11 C2. Tel 06-3996 7700. @ 70, the 1570s. He Ludovisi Sarcophagus,
81, 87, 116, 280, 492, 628. Open added the great dating from the 3rd
9am–7.45pm Tue–Sun (last adm: 1 belvedere, century AD.
hour before closing.) Closed 1 Jan, crowned with
25 Dec. Adm charge. 7 8 = obelisks and a Galatian’s Suicide
marble unicorn.
An extraordinary collection in the Palazzo
of Classical sculpture is The Altemps
housed in this branch of the family were Altemps
Museo Nazionale Romano. ostentatious
collectors; the
courtyard and its
staircase are lined
with ancient
sculptures. These
form part of the
museum’s
collection, together
with the Ludovisi
collection of ancient
sculptures,
which was previ-
ously housed in the
Museo Nazionale
Romano in the Baths
of Diocletian (see p163).
Located on the ground
floor is the Greek statue
of Athena Parthenos
and the
Dionysius
group, a
Roman
copy of



ROME AREA BY AREA 129

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

By the 16th century, the the district. Today this attractive
increase in numbers of area offers much more: the
visiting pilgrims and superb works of Renaissance

ecclesiastics was making life and Baroque art in Santa

in Rome’s already congested Maria del Popolo and Sant’

medieval centre unbearable. Andrea delle Fratte, the mag-

A new triangle of roads was nificent reliefs of the restored

built, still in place today, to Ara Pacis, art exhibitions in the

help channel pilgrims as quickly Villa Medici, fine views of the

as possible from the city’s Lion fountain in city from the Spanish Steps

north gate, the Porta del Piazza del Popolo and the Pincio Gardens and

Popolo, to the Vatican. By the 18th Rome’s most famous shopping streets,

century hotels had sprung up all over centred around Via Condotti.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Churches Historic Buildings Spanish Steps 9
All Saints w Palazzo di Propaganda Via Condotti 4
San Rocco a Monuments and Tombs
Sant’Andrea delle Fratte 1 Fide 2 Ara Pacis o
Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Villa Medici q Mausoleum of Augustus p
Parks and Gardens
Santa Maria in Montesanto r Arches, Gates and Columns Pincio Gardens t
Santa Maria del Colonna dell’Immacolata 3 Cafés and Restaurants
Porta del Popolo i Babington’s Tea Rooms 8
Popolo pp138–9 u Caffè Greco 5
Santi Ambrogio e Carlo Historic Streets and Piazzas
Piazza del Popolo y 300
al Corso s Piazza di Spagna 6
Trinità dei Monti 0 300

Museums and Galleries 7 *" - & % & - .6
Casa di Goethe e
Keats-Shelley K
30 50350 0 metres
Memorial House 7 %h"/ 0 yards

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is more convenient than the SEE ALSO
main bus routes along Via del

Corso and Via del Tritone. Stay KEY • Street Finder, maps 4, 5

on until Flaminio Metro if you Street-by-Street map • Where to Stay pp301–3
wish to visit Piazza del Popolo. Q Metro station • Restaurants pp318–19
For getting around locally, the

116 and 117 minibuses are City Wall • Shops pp334–51
very handy.

The Spanish Steps leading up to the church of Trinità dei Monti

130 ROME AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Piazza di Spagna

The network of narrow Caffè Greco
streets between Piazza di Busts and portraits
Spagna and Via del Corso is recall the café’s former
one of the liveliest areas in artistic patrons 5
Rome, drawing throngs of
tourists and Romans to its
discreet and elegant shops.
In the 18th century the area
was full of hotels for frivo-
lous English aristocrats doing
the Grand Tour, but there
were also artists, writers and
composers, who took the
city’s history and culture
more seriously.

. Piazza di Spagna
For almost three centuries
the square with its curious
Barcaccia fountain in the
centre has been the chief
meeting place for
visitors to Rome 6

Via delle V
Carrozze took its IA
name from the
carriages of wealthy D
tourists that used to EL
queue up here for CO
repairs. RSO

Via Condotti
This shadowy,
narrow street
has the smartest
shops in one
of the smartest
shopping areas
in the world 4

0 metres 75

Bulgari sells 75
very expensive 0 yards

jewellery behind KEY Suggested route
an austere
shopfront in Via

Condotti. q Metro station

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 131

Trinità dei Monti 7JMMB
This 16th-century church #PSHIFTF
has a spectacular
setting and some of the 5F W F S F 1*";;" %* 41"(/"
finest views in Rome 0
7*"
Babington’s 7&/&50
Tea Rooms
English 1*";;" 1*";;" 26*3*/"-
tourists are /"70/" %&--"
catered for in 3050/%"
the style of the
1890s 8 LOCATOR MAP
See Central Rome Map pp14–15

Colonna dell’Immacolata Palazzo di
A Roman column supports Propaganda Fide
a statue of the Virgin This façade (1665) was one
Mary 3 of the last works of the great
Francesco Borromini 2

. Keats-Shelley Sant’Andrea delle Fratte
Pasquale Marini painted
Memorial House
The Redemption to decorate
. Spanish Steps The library is part of the the interior of Borromini’s
Even obscured by small museum established in high dome in 1691 1
crowds, the steps are the house where the English
one of the glories of poet Keats died in 1821 7 STAR SIGHTS
. Piazza di Spagna
late Baroque Rome 9 . Keats-Shelley

Memorial House
. Spanish Steps

132

Sant’Andrea scrolls like semi-folded hearts Entrance to the Jesuit College
delle Fratte 1 supporting a spiky crown.
Colonna
Via Sant’Andrea delle Fratte 1. In 1842, the Virgin Mary dell’Immacolata 3
Map 5 A3. Tel 06-679 31 91. appeared in the church to a
@ 116, 117. Q Spagna. Open Jewish banker, who promptly Piazza Mignanelli. Map 5 A2.
6.30am– 12.30pm, 4–7pm daily. 5 converted to Christianity and @ 116, 117. Q Spagna.
became a missionary. Inside,
When Sant’Andrea delle Fratte the chapel of the Miraculous Inaugurated in 1857, the
was built in the 12th century, Madonna is the first thing you column commemorates Pope
this was the northernmost notice. The church is better Pius IX’s proclamation of the
edge of Rome. Though the known, however, for the doctrine of the Immaculate
church is now firmly angels that Borromini’s rival, Conception, holding that the
embedded in the city, its Bernini, carved for the Ponte Virgin Mary was the only
name (fratte means thickets) Sant’Angelo. Pope Clement IX human being ever to have
recalls its original setting. declared they were too lovely been born “without the stain
to be exposed to the weather, of original sin”. The column
The church was completely so they remained with Bernini’s itself dates from ancient, pagan
rebuilt in the 17th century, family until 1729, when they Rome but is crowned with a
partly by Borromini. His bell were moved to the church. statue of the Virgin Mary.
tower and dome, best viewed
from the higher ground further Palazzo di On 8 December the Pope,
up Via Capo le Case, are Propaganda Fide 2 assisted by the fire brigade,
remarkable for the complex places a wreath around the
arrangement of concave and Via di Propaganda 1. Map 5 A2. head of the statue (see p61).
convex surfaces. The bell
tower is particularly fanciful, Tel 06-6987 9299. Fax 06-6988 Portrait of Pope Pius IX
with angel caryatids, flaming 0137. @ 116, 117. Q Spagna. (reigned 1846–78)
torches, and exaggerated
Open by appt (via fax).
Angel by Bernini,
Sant’Andrea delle Fratte The powerful Jesuit Congre-
gation for the Propagation

of the Faith was
founded in 1622.

Their head-
quarters had to
be a remarkable
building, and
Bernini was
commissioned.
But Innocent X,
who became
pope in 1644,
preferred the
style of Borromini
who was asked
to continue. His
extraordinary
west façade,
completed in
1662, must

have out-
stripped
everyone’s expectations.
It is striped with broad
pilasters, between which
the first-floor windows
bend in, and the
central bay bulges.
A rigid band divides
its floors, and the
cornice above the con-
vex central bay swerves
inwards. The more you look
at it, the more restless it
seems; a sign perhaps of
the increasing unhappiness
of the architect who
committed suicide in 1667.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 133

Via Condotti 4 visitors as it is today, and the

Map 5 A2. @ 81, 116, 117, 119, square stood at the heart of
492 and many routes along via del
Corso or stopping at Piazza S. the city’s main hotel district.
Silvestro. Q Spagna. See Shops
and Markets pp333–45. Some of the travellers came in

Named after the conduits search of knowledge and
that carried water to the Baths
of Agrippa near the Pantheon, artistic inspiration, but most
Via Condotti is now home to
the most traditional of Rome’s were more interested in
designer clothes shops. Stores
selling shoes and other gambling, collecting ancient
leather goods are also well
represented. The street is statues and conducting love
extremely popular for early
evening strolls, when elegant affairs with Italian women.
Italians mingle with tourists in
shorts and trainers. Not surprisingly, the

Slightly younger designers wealthy travellers attracted
such as Laura Biagiotti and
the Fendi sisters have shops hordes of beggars, who were
on the parallel Via Borgo-
gnona, while Valentino and usually supplied with tear-
Giorgio Armani both have
shops on Via Condotti itself. jerking letters by scribes who
Valentino has a second
branch on Via Bocca di worked in the square.
Leone, which crosses Via
Condotti just below Piazza The Fontana della Barcaccia
di Spagna, and Versace also
has a shop here. Giorgio in the square is the least
Armani has a second store
on nearby Via del Babuino, Caffè Greco, around 240 years old showy of Rome’s Baroque
among the discreet art
galleries, exclusive antique fountains, and it is often
shops and furnishing stores.
century it was a favourite completely screened from
View along Via Condotti towards
the Spanish Steps meeting place for view by

Caffè Greco 5 foreign artists. Writers people resting

Via Condotti 86. Map 5 A2. Tel 06-67 such as Keats, Byron on its rim. It
91 700. @ 81, 116, 117, 119, 492. Q
Spagna. Open 9am–7.30pm Tue–Sat; and Goethe and was designed
10.30am–7pm Mon, Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 2 wks Aug, 25–26 Dec. 7 composers like Liszt, either by the

This cafe was opened by a Wagner and Bizet all famous Gian
Greek (hence greco) in 1760,
and throughout the 18th breakfasted and drank Lorenzo

here. So too did Bernini or by

Casanova, and mad his father

King Ludwig of Pietro.

Bavaria. Today, Italians Because the

stand in the crowded pressure from

foyer to sip a quick Pope Urban VIII’s arms, the aqueduct

espresso coffee, and with the Barberini bees that feeds the

foreigners sit in a cosy fountain is

back room, whose walls are extremely low there are no

studded with portraits of the spectacular cascades or spurts

café’s illustrious customers. of water. Instead, Bernini

constructed a leaking boat –

barcaccia means useless,

Piazza di Spagna 6 old boat – which lies half
submerged in a shallow pool.

Map 5 A2. @ 116, 117, 119. The bees and suns that

Q Spagna. decorate the Fontana della

Barcaccia are taken from the

Shaped like a crooked bow family coat of arms of Pope

tie and surrounded by tall, Urban VIII Barberini, who

shuttered houses painted in commissioned the fountain.

muted shades of ochre, cream

and russet, Piazza di Spagna

(Spanish square) is crowded

all day and (in summer) most

of the night. It is the most

famous square in Rome, and

has long been the haunt of

foreign visitors and expatriates.

In the 17th century Spain’s

ambassador to the Holy See

had his headquarters on the

square, and the area around

it was deemed to be Spanish

territory. Foreigners who

unwittingly trespassed were

liable to be dragooned into

the Spanish army. In the 18th

and 19th centuries Rome was The Fontana della Barcaccia at

almost as popular with the foot of the Spanish Steps

134 ROME AREA BY AREA

poets. The relics include a
lock of Keats’s hair, some
fragments of Shelley’s bones
in a tiny urn and a garish
carnival mask picked up by
Lord Byron as a souvenir of
a trip to Venice. You can visit
the room where Keats died,
though all the original
furniture was burnt after
his death, on papal orders.

Babington’s Tea
Rooms 8

Bust of Shelley by Moses Ezekiel Piazza di Spagna 23. Map 5 A2. Tel Purveyors of English breakfasts to
06-678 6027. @ 116, 117, 119. Q homesick exiles since 1896
Keats-Shelley
Memorial House 7 Spagna. Open 9am–8.15pm Spanish Steps 9
daily. Closed 25 Dec. 7
Piazza di Spagna 26. Map 5 A2. Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti,
Tel 06-678 4235. @ 116, 117, 119. These august, old-fashioned Piazza di Spagna. Map 5 A2. @
Q Spagna. Open 9am–1pm, tea rooms were opened in 116, 117, 119. Q Spagna.
1896 by two Englishwomen,
3–6pm Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm, 3–6pm Anna Maria and Isabel Cargill In the 17th century the French
Babington, to serve homesick owners of Trinità dei Monti
Sat. Closed at Christmas and British tourists with scones, decided to link the church
New Year. Adm charge. 6 jam and pots of Earl Grey tea. with Piazza di Spagna by
8 book in advance. = The food remains homely – building a magnificent new
shepherd’s pie and chicken flight of steps. They also
www.keats-shelley-house.org supreme for lunch, muffins planned to place an equestrian
and cinnamon toast for tea – statue of King Louis XIV at the
In November 1820 the English although these days the menu top. Pope Alexander VII Chigi
poet John Keats came to stay offers pancakes with maple was not too happy at the
with his friend, the painter syrup for breakfast as well as
Joseph Severn, in a dusty the traditional bacon and egg.
pink house, the Casina
Rossa, on the corner of the The Spanish Steps in spring with azaleas in full bloom
Spanish Steps. Suffering from
consumption, Keats had been
sent to Rome by his doctor, in
the hope that the mild, dry
climate would help the young
man’s recovery. Depressed
because of scathing criticism of
his work and tormented by his
love for a young girl named
Fanny Brawne, Keats died the
following February aged 25.

His death inspired fellow
poet Percy Bysshe Shelley
to write the poem Mourn
not for Adonais. In July 1822
Shelley himself was drowned
in a boating accident in the
Gulf of La Spezia off the
coast of Liguria. Keats,
Shelley and Severn are all
buried in Rome’s Protestant
Cemetery (see p205).

In 1906 the house was
bought by an Anglo-American
association and preserved as
a memorial and library in
honour of English Romantic

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 135

prospect of erecting a statue 19th-century engraving of the inner façade of the Villa Medici
of a French monarch in the
papal city, and the arguments A pupil of Michelangelo, Poussin was one of the first
continued until the 1720s when
an Italian architect, Francesco Volterra had to paint clothes advisers to the Academy,
de Sanctis, produced a design
that satisfied both parties. The on the nudes in the Last Ingres was a director and ex-
steps, completed in 1726, com-
bine straight sections, curves Judgment in the Sistine students include Fragonard
and terraces to create one of
the city’s most dramatic and Chapel, in response to the and Boucher.
distinctive landmarks.
objections of Pope Pius IV. After 1803 when the French
When the Victorian novelist
Charles Dickens visited Rome, Michelangelo’s influence is Academy moved to the Villa
he reported that the Spanish
Steps were the meeting place obvious in the powerfully Medici, musicians were also
for artists’ models, who would
dress in colourful traditional muscled bodies shown in the admitted; both Berlioz and
costumes, hoping to catch the
attention of a wealthy artist. Deposition (second chapel on Debussy came to Rome as
The steps are now a popular
place to sit, write postcards, the left). The circles of students of the Academy.
take photos, flirt, busk or
watch the passers-by, but gesturing figures and dancing
eating there is not allowed.
angels surrounding the Virgin
Trinità dei Monti 0
Mary in the Assumption (third All Saints w
Piazza della Trinità dei Monti. chapel on the right) have
Map 5 A2. Tel 06-679 4179.
@ 116, 117, 119. Q Spagna. more in common with the Via del Babuino 153B. Map 4 F2.
Open 9am–1pm, 3–7pm daily. 5
graceful style of Raphael. Tel 06-3600 1881. @ 117, 119.
Trinità dei Monti’s bell towers
Open 8am–noon Mon–Fri and for
The views of Rome from the
platform in front of the twin services on Sun. 5
bell-towered façade of Trinità
dei Monti are so beautiful Villa Medici q In 1816 the Pope gave English
that the church itself is often
ignored. It is, however, Accademia di Francia a Roma, Viale residents and visitors the right
unusual for Rome, for it was
founded by the French in Trinità dei Monti 1. Map 5 A2. Tel 06- to hold Anglican services in
1495, and although it was
later badly damaged, there 676 11. @ 117, 119. Q Spagna. Rome, but it wasn’t until the
are still traces of attractive
late Gothic latticework in the Open for exhibitions and concerts. early 1880s that they acquired
vaults of the transept. The
interconnecting side chapels Gardens open for visits at 10.30 and a site to build their own
are decorated with Mannerist
paintings, including two fine 11.40am Sat & Sun. Adm charge. 8 church. The architect was G E
works by Daniele da Volterra.
Street, best known in Britain

Superbly positioned on the for his Neo-Gothic churches

Pincio hill above Piazza di and the London Law Courts.

Spagna, this 16th-century villa All Saints is also built in

has kept the name it assumed Victorian Neo-Gothic, and the

when Cardinal Ferdinando interior, though splendidly

de’ Medici bought it in 1576. decorated with different

From the terrace you can coloured Italian marbles, has

look across the city to Castel a very English air. Street also

Sant’Angelo, from where designed St-Paul’s-within-the-

Queen Christina of Sweden Walls in Via Nazionale, whose

is said to have fired the large interior is a jewel of British

cannon ball which now sits Pre-Raphaelite art.

in the basin of the fountain. The street on

The villa is now home to which All Saints

the French Academy. stands got its name

This was founded from the Fontana

by Louis XIV in del Sileno,

1666 to give known as

a few select Babuino

painters the (baboon) due

chance to to the sad

study in Fontana del Sileno, on condition in

Rome. Nicolas Via del Babuino since 1957 which it was found.

136 ROME AREA BY AREA

Casa di Goethe e

Via del Corso 18. Map 4 F1. Tel 06-
3265 0412. @ 95, 117, 119, 490, 495,
628, 926. v 2. Q Flaminio. Open

10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Adm charge.
7 8 = www.casadigoethe.it

The German poet, dramatist
and novelist Johann Wolfgang
von Goethe (1749–1832) lived
in this house from 1786 until
1788 and worked on a journal

that eventually formed part of

his travel book The Italian

Journey. Rome’s noisy street

life irritated him, especially

during Carnival time. He was a Portrait of Goethe in the Roman countryside by Tischbein (1751–1821)
little perturbed by the number
of murders in his neighbour- symmetrical, but the site on
hood, but Rome energized the left was narrower. So,
him and his book became Rainaldi gave Santa Maria dei
one of the most influential Miracoli (on the right) a
ever written about Italy. circular dome and Santa Maria

in Montesanto an oval one to

Santa Maria dei squeeze it into the narrower
Miracoli and site, while keeping the sides
Santa Maria in of the supporting drums that
face the piazza identical.

Montesanto r Pincio Gardens t

Piazza del Popolo. Map 4 F1.

@ 95, 117, 119, 490, 495, 628, Il Pincio. Map 4 F1. @ 95, 117,
926. v 2. Q Flaminio. Santa 119, 490, 495, 628, 926. v 2.

Maria dei Miracoli Tel 06-361 Q Flaminio.

0250. Open 7am–1pm, 4–7.30pm

Mon–Sat, 8am–1pm, 4.30–7.30pm The Pincio Gardens lie above

Sun & public hols. 5 7 Santa Piazza del Popolo on a

Maria in Montesanto Tel 06-361 hillside that has been so The Pincio Gardens water clock
0594. Open 4–7pm Mon–Sat, skilfully terraced and richly
11am–1pm Sun. planted with trees that, from
below, the zig-zagging road
The two churches at the climbing to the gardens is
south end of Piazza del
Popolo were designed by virtually invisible. In ancient
Roman times, there were

the architect Carlo Rainaldi magnificent gardens on the del Popolo). The broad

(1611–91), proof that he could Pincio hill, but the present avenues, lined with umbrella

be as ingenious as his peers, gardens were designed pines, palm trees and

Bernini and Borromini. To in the early 19th century evergreen oaks soon became

provide a focal point for the by Giuseppe Valadier a fashionable place to stroll,
piazza, the churches (who also and even this century such
had to appear redesigned diverse characters as Gandhi
the Piazza and Mussolini, Richard Strauss
and King Farouk of Egypt
patronized the Casina
Valadier, an exclusive café

and restaurant in the grounds.

From the Pincio’s main

square, Piazzale Napoleone I,

the panoramic views of Rome

The twin churches of Santa Maria di Montesanto (left) and Santa Maria dei stretch from the Monte Mario
Miracoli in a 19th-century view of Piazza del Popolo to the Janiculum. For full
effect, approach the gardens
from the grounds of Villa
Borghese (see pp258–9)
above the Pincio, or along
Viale della Trinità dei Monti.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 137

The panorama is particularly Traditional carnival band in Piazza del Popolo
beautiful at sunset, the tradi-
tional time for tourists to take Over 3,000 years old, the Porta del Popolo i
a stroll in the gardens. obelisk was originally brought
to Rome by Augustus to Between Piazzale Flaminio and Piazza
One of the most striking adorn the Circus Maximus del Popolo. Map 4 F1. @ 95, 117,
features of the park itself is after the conquest of Egypt. 119, 490, 495, 926. v 2.
an Egyptian-style obelisk Almost a century later Pope Q Flaminio.
which Emperor Hadrian Alexander VII commissioned
erected on the tomb of his Carlo Rainaldi to build the The Via Flaminia, built in
favourite, the beautiful male twin Santa Marias. 220 BC to connect Rome with
slave Antinous. After the Italy’s Adriatic coast, enters
slave’s premature death In the 19th century the the city at Porta del Popolo, a
(according to some accounts piazza was turned into a grand 16th-century gate built
he died saving the emperor’s grandiose oval by Giuseppe on the orders of Pope Pius IV
life), Hadrian deified him. Valadier, the designer of the Medici. The architect, Nanni
Pincio Gardens. He also di Baccio Bigio, modelled it
The 19th-century water encased Santa Maria del on a Roman triumphal arch.
clock on Via dell’Orologio Popolo in a Neo-Classical The outer face has statues of
was designed by a Dominican shell to make its south façade St Peter and St Paul on either
monk. It was displayed at the fit in better with the overall side and a huge Medici coat
Paris Exhibition of 1889. appearance of the piazza. of arms above.

The Casina Valadier restaurant in In contrast to the piazza’s A century later, Pope
the Pincio Gardens air of ordered rationalism, Alexander VII commissioned
many of the events staged Bernini to decorate the inner
Piazza del Popolo y here were barbaric. In the face to celebrate the arrival in
18th and 19th centuries, Rome of Queen Christina of
Map 4 F1. @ 95, 117, 119, 490, public executions were held Sweden. Lesser visitors were
495, 926. v 2. Q Flaminio. in Piazza del Popolo, often as often held up while customs
part of the celebration of officers rifled their luggage.
A vast cobbled oval standing Carnival. Condemned men The only way to speed things
at the apex of the triangle were sometimes hammered to up was with a bribe.
of roads known as the death by repeated blows to
Trident, Piazza del Popolo the temples. The last time a
forms a grand symmetrical criminal was executed in this
antechamber to the heart of way was in 1826, even though
Rome. Twin Neo-Classical the guillotine had by then
façades stand on either side been adopted as a more
of the Porta del Popolo; an scientific means of execution.
Egyptian obelisk rises in the
centre; and the matching The riderless horse races
domes and porticoes of Santa from the piazza down Via del
Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Corso were scarcely more
Maria di Montesanto flank the humane: the performance of
beginning of Via del Corso. the runners was enhanced by
feeding the horses stimulants,
Although it is now one of wrapping them in nail-stud-
the most unified squares in ded ropes, and letting off fire-
Rome, Piazza del Popolo works at their heels.
evolved gradually over the
centuries. In 1589 the great Santa Maria del Porta del Popolo’s central arch
town-planning pope, Sixtus V, Popolo u
had the obelisk erected in the
centre by Domenico Fontana. See pp138–9.

138 ROME AREA BY AREA

Santa Maria del Popolo u

One of Rome’s greatest stores of artistic . Chigi Chapel
Raphael designed
treasures, this early Renaissance church this chapel, which
has an altarpiece
was commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV by Sebastiano del
Piombo. Niches on
della Rovere in 1472. Among the artists either side of the
altar house sculp-
who worked on the building were tures by Bernini
and Lorenzetto.
Andrea Bregno and Pinturicchio. Later Mosaics in the
dome show God as
additions were made by Bramante creator of the seven
heavenly
and Bernini. Many illustrious families bodies.

have chapels here, all decorated with

appropriate splendour. The Della Rovere

Chapel has delightful Pinturicchio frescoes,

the Cerasi Chapel has two Caravaggio

masterpieces, The Conversion of St Paul

and The Crucifixion of St Peter, but the

finest of all is the Chigi Chapel designed

by Raphael for his patron,

the banker Agostino Kneeling Skeleton

Chigi. The most This floor mosaic of

striking of the the figure of death

church’s many was added to the

Renaissance Chigi Chapel in the

tombs are the 17th century.

two by Andrea

Sansovino behind

the main altar.

NERO’S GHOST Entrance

Nero lived on in the imagination of
the people long after the fall of the
Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages
a legend arose that a walnut tree
growing here on the spot where his
ashes were buried was haunted by
the emperor. Ravens roosting in the
tree were thought to be demons
tormenting him for his hideous
crimes. When the first
church was built
here in 1099 by
Pope Paschal II,
the tree was cut
down, supposedly
putting an end to
the supernatural
events that had
terrified local people.

STAR FEATURES Cybo
. Chigi Chapel Chapel

. Caravaggio Paintings Della Rovere
in Cerasi Chapel Chapel
Pinturicchio painted
. Delphic Sibyl the frescoes in the
lunettes and the
Nativity above the
altar in 1490.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 139

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST . Caravaggio Paintings
in Cerasi Chapel
Piazza del Popolo 12. Map 4 F1. One of two Caravaggios
Tel 06-361 0836. @ 95, 117, in the Cerasi Chapel, The
119, 490, 495, 926. v 2. Q Crucifixion of St Peter
Flaminio. Open 7am–noon, uses dramatic fore-
4–7pm Mon–Sat, 7.30am– shortening to highlight
1.30pm, 4.30–7.30pm Sun. 5 the sheer effort involved
in turning the saint’s
The altarpiece of The crucifix upside down.
Assumption is by Annibale
Carracci (1540–1609).

Stained Glass
In 1509 French
artist Guillaume de
Marcillat was invited
to provide Rome’s first
two stained-glass

windows.

The Tomb of Ascanio
Sforza, who died in 1505,
is by Andrea Sansovino.

. Delphic Sibyl
This is one of a series of frescoes by
Pinturicchio, some Classical and
others Biblical, painted in 1508–10
to decorate the ceiling of the apse.

The altar
houses the
13th-century
painting known
as the Madonna
del Popolo.

The Tomb of Giovanni della
Rovere (1483) is by pupils
of Andrea Bregno.

TIMELINE

1213–27 Church Pinturicchio 1485–9 Della 1513–16 Raphael
enlarged under (c.1454–1513) Rovere Chapel designs and
executes Chigi
Gregory IX 1300 painted by Chapel
Pinturicchio
1090 1200 1500
1400
1530–34
1099 Paschal II builds 1472–8 Sixtus IV builds Chigi Chapel
chapel over tombs of altarpiece
the Domitia family church (one of the built by
(which included Sebastiano
Nero) in honour of first Renaissance del Piombo
the Madonna
Pope Paschal II churches in Rome)

(reigned 1473 Main altar built

1099–1118)

140 ROME AREA BY AREA

Ara Pacis o

Lungotevere in Augusta. Map 4 F2.
Tel 06-6710 3819. @ 70, 81, 117,

119, 186, 628. Open 9am–7pm Tue–
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 9

Reconstructed at considerable Frieze on south wall showing procession with the family of Augustus
expense over a period of
many years, the Ara Pacis in which the members of the just what they had found.
(Altar of Peace) is one of the emperor’s family can be iden- What we see today has all
most significant monuments tified, ranked by their position been pieced together since
of ancient Rome. It celebrates in the succession. At the time 1938, in part original, in part
the peace created throughout the heir apparent was Marcus facsimile. In 1999 the architect
the Mediterranean area by Agrippa, husband of Augustus’s Richard Meier was called
Emperor Augustus after his daughter Julia. All the portraits upon to design a new build-
victorious campaigns in Gaul in the relief are carved with ing to house the monument.
extraordinary realism, even
Marcus Agrippa (right) the innocent toddler clinging Livia (right), Augustus’s wife and
to his mother’s skirts. the mother of Tiberius, with an
and Spain. The monument was unidentified member of the family
commissioned by the Senate The tale of the rediscovery
in 13 BC and completed four of the Ara Pacis dates back to
years later. It was positioned so the 16th century, when the first
that the shadow of the huge panels were unearthed. One
obelisk sundial on Campus section ended up in Paris,
Martius (see p113) would fall another in Florence. Further
upon it on Augustus’ birthday. discoveries were made in the
It is a square enclosure on a late 19th century, when
low platform with the altar in archaeologists finally realized
the centre. All surfaces are
decorated with magnificent South wall
friezes and reliefs carved
in Carrara marble, most East wall The altar was used
likely by Greek craftsmen. once a year for a
The reliefs on the north sacrifice on the
and south walls depict a anniversary of the
procession that took monument’s
place on 4 July 13 BC, inauguration.

West wall

Augustus’s young North wall
grandson, Lucius
An acanthus frieze
runs around the
lower half of the
outside wall.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 141

Mausoleum of Santi Ambrogio e
Augustus p Carlo al Corso s

Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Via del Corso 437. Map 4 F2.
Map 4 F2. Tel 06-6710 3819. @ 81,
117, 492, 628, 926. Open by appt Tel 06-682 8101.
only: permit needed (see p383). @ 81, 117, 492, 628, 926.
Open 7am–7pm daily. ^
Now just a weedy mound
ringed with cypresses and This church belonged to
sadly strewn with litter, this
was once the most pres- the Lombard community in
tigious burial place in Rome.
Augustus had the mausoleum Rome, and is dedicated to
built in 28 BC, the year he
became sole ruler, as a tomb two canonized bishops of
for himself and his descend-
ants. The circular building Milan, Lombardy’s capital.
was 87 m (285 ft) in diameter
with two obelisks (now in In 1471, Pope Sixtus IV
Piazza del Quirinale and Piazza
dell’Esquilino) at the entrance. gave the Lombards a church

Inside were four concentric which they dedicated to
passageways linked by
corridors where the urns Sant’Ambrogio, who died
containing the ashes of the
Imperial family were placed. Madonna, San Rocco and in 397. Then in 1610, when
The first to be buried here
was Augustus’s favourite Sant’Antonio with Victims of the Carlo Borromeo was
nephew, Marcellus, who had
married Julia, the emperor’s Plague by Il Baciccia (1639–1709) canonized, the church was
daughter. He died in 23 BC,
possibly poisoned by San Rocco a rebuilt in his honour. Most
Augustus’s second wife Livia, of the new church was the
who felt that her son, Tiberius,
would make a more reliable work of father and son,
emperor. When Augustus
died in AD 14, his ashes were Largo San Rocco 1. Map 4 F2. Onorio and Martino Longhi,
placed in the mausoleum,
Tiberius duly became emperor, Tel 06-689 6416. @ 81, 117, but the fine dome is by
and dynastic poisonings
continued to fill the family 492, 628, 926. Open 9am–1pm Pietro da Cortona. The
vault with urns.
Mon–Sat, 4.30–7.30pm Sun. Closed altarpiece by Carlo Maratta
This sinister monument
was later used as a medieval 17–31 Aug. 5 (1625–1713) is the Gloria dei
fortress, a vineyard, a private
garden, and even, in the 18th Santi Ambrogio e Carlo. An
century, as an auditorium
and a theatre. This church, with a ambulatory leads behind the

Augustus, the first Roman emperor restrained Neo-Classical altar to a chapel housing the

façade by Giuseppe Valadier, the heart of San Carlo in a

the designer of Piazza del richly decorated reliquary.

Popolo, began life as the

chapel of a 16th-

century hospital

with beds for 50

men – San Rocco

was a healer of th

plague-stricken. A

maternity wing w

added for the wiv

Tiber bargees to s

from having to gi

the insanitary con

boat. The hospita

used by unmarrie

and one section w

aside for women w

to be unknown. T

even permitted to

veil for the durati

stay. Unwanted c

were sent to an o

and if any mothe

children died they

in anonymous gra

hospital was aban

early 20th century

demolished in the

during the excava

Mausoleum of Au

The church sac

an interesting Bar

altarpiece (c.1660

Baciccia, the artis

decorated the ceiling of the Attilio Selva (1888–1970) behind the

Gesù (see pp114–15). apse of Santi Ambrogio e Carlo



ROME AREA BY AREA 143

CAMPO DE’ FIORI

Between Corso Vittorio their fortress-like houses near
Emanuele II and the the route of papal processions.
Tiber, the city displays Close by, overlooking the

many distinct personalities. picturesque Tiber Island, lies

The open-air market of the former Jewish Ghetto,

Campo de’ Fiori preserves where many traces of daily

the lively, bohemian atmos- life from past centuries can

phere of the medieval inns still be seen. The Portico of

that once flourished here, 18th-century Madonna Octavia and the Theatre of
in Campo de’ Fiori
while the area also contains Marcellus are spectacular

Renaissance palazzi, such as examples of the city’s many-

Palazzo Farnese and Palazzo Spada, layered history, built up over the half-

where powerful Roman families built ruined remains of ancient Rome.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Churches and Temples Historic Buildings Ancient Sites

San Carlo ai Catinari i Casa di Lorenzo Manilio g Area Sacra dell’Argentina u

San Giovanni dei Fiorentini l Palazzo Cenci h Portico of Octavia d

San Girolamo della Carità 9 Palazzo del Monte di Pietà 3 Sotterranei di San Paolo

San Nicola in Carcere a Palazzo della Cancelleria e alla Regola 4

Sant’Eligio degli Orefici 0 Palazzo Farnese 8 Theatre of Marcellus s

Santa Maria dell’Orazione Palazzo Pio Righetti 2 GETTING THERE
e Morte 7 Palazzo Ricci w Only bus 116 can manage
the narrow streets around
Santa Maria in Campitelli p Fountains Campo de’ Fiori, but many
Santa Maria in Monserrato q Fontana delle Tartarughe o routes, including the 40,
Santissima Trinità 46, 62 and 64, and tram 8,
Historic Streets and Piazzas converge on Largo Argentina.
dei Pellegrini 5 Campo de’ Fiori 1 This is a useful starting point
Ghetto and Synagogue f for exploring the area. Only
Museums and Galleries Tiber Island j the 40, 46, 62 and 64 run the
Burcardo Theatre Museum t Via Giulia k full length of Corso Vittorio
Palazzo Spada 6
Piccola Farnesina r

&NB1O UVFF 7MFJU *U* Famous Theatres Emanuele II while 23 and
1 UF 1S Teatro Argentina y 280 run along Lungotevere.
"NFEFP
SEE ALSO

7*" $0340 0 metres 300 • Street Finder, maps 4, 8, 11, 12
7*550 0 yards 300 • Where to Stay pp303–4
% #" 3*0 • Restaurants pp319–20
7*" • Via Giulia Walk pp276–7

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KEY
Street-by-Street map

Fruit stalls surrounding the statue of Giordano Bruno in the Campo de’ Fiori market

144 ROME AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Campo de’ Fiori

This fascinating part of Renaissance Rome is also Sant’Eligio
an exciting area for shopping and night life, centred degli Orefici
on the market square of Campo de’ Fiori. Its stalls A small Renaissance
supply many nearby restaurants, and young people church designed by
shop for clothes in Via dei Giubbonari. Popular Raphael is concealed
restaurants keep the area alive late into the behind a later façade 0
night, when overcrowding and drunks can
become problems. By day there are great
buildings to admire, though few are open
to the public. Two exceptions are the Piccola
Farnesina, with its collection of Classical statues,
and Palazzo Spada, home to many
important paintings.

Palazzo Ricci
Painted Classical sce
were a favourite form o
decoration for the façade
of Renaissance houses w

San Giro
della Carit
The chief attra
of this church is
Borromini’s fabul
Spada Chapel 9

Santa Maria in Santa
Monserrato dell’Oraz
This church, which has e Morte
strong connections with A pair of
Spain, houses a Bernini dramatic winged
bust of Cardinal Pedro skulls flank the
Foix de Montoya q doorway to this
church dedicated to
KEY the burial of the dead 7

Suggested route Palazzo Farnese
Michelangelo and other
0 metres 75 great artists helped create
0 yards 75 this monumental
Renaissance palazzo 8

AMPO DE’ FIORI 145

Palazzo della Piccola 1*";;" 1*";;"
Cancelleria Farnesina /"70/" %&--"
The papal This plaque 3050/%"
administration
ran the affairs honours 5FWFSF $".10 %&h
of the Church Giovanni '*03*
from this vast Barracco.
building e His sculpture +"/*$6-6.
collection is
housed in the 53"45&7&3&
palazzo r
LOCATOR MAP
See Central Rome Map pp14–15

. Campo de’ Fiori
This colourful market makes Piaz-
za Campo de’ Fiori one of Rome’s
most entertaining squares 1

Palazzo Pio Righetti
Heraldic eagles

stare down from
the pediments of the
palazzo’s windows 2

Palazzo del Monte di Pietà
This was a papal institution,
where the poor pawned their
possessions in order to borrow

small sums of money 3

Sotterranei di San Paolo alla Regola
Remains of a Roman house have survived

in the basement of an old palace 4

. Palazzo Spada Santissima Trinità STAR SIGHTS
The picture gallery houses dei Pellegrini . Campo de’ Fiori
a collection started by two . Palazzo Spada
wonderfully eccentric The principal role of this
17th-century cardinals 6 church was one of charity,
looking after poor pilgrims

arriving in Rome 5

146 ROME AREA BY AREA

Campo de’ Fiori 1

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. Map 4 E4 &
11 C4. @ 116 and routes to Largo di
Torre Argentina or Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II. See Markets p352.

The Campo de’ Fiori (field of Window pediment with heraldic lion and pine cones, Palazzo Pio Righetti
flowers), once a meadow,
occupies the site of the open The windows of the palazzo relief of the Pietà. There are
space facing the Theatre of are decorated with lions and also splendid reliefs by Gio-
Pompey. Cardinals and noble- pine cones from the coat of vanni Battista Théudon and
men used to rub shoulders arms of the Pio da Carpi Pierre Legros of biblical
with fishmongers and foreign- family who lived here. scenes illustrating the charita-
ers in the piazza’s market, ble nature of the institution.
making it one of the liveliest The curve of the Theatre of
areas of medieval and Renais- Pompey, completed in 55 BC,
sance Rome. Today’s market is followed by Via di Grotta
retains much of the traditional Pinta. Rome’s first permanent
lively atmosphere. theatre was built of stone and
concrete and in the basement
In the centre of the square of the Pancrazio restaurant
is a statue of the philosopher you can see early examples of
Giordano Bruno, burnt at the opus reticulatum – small
stake for heresy here in 1600. square blocks of tufa (porous
The hooded figure is a grim rock) set diagonally as a
reminder of the executions facing for a concrete wall.
that were held here.
Palazzo del Monte
The piazza was surrounded di Pietà 3
by inns for pilgrims and other
travellers. Many of these were Piazza del Monte di Pietà 33. Map 4 Relief by Théudon of Joseph
once owned by the successful E5 & 11 C4. Tel 06-6844 2001. @ 116
15th-century courtesan, Lending Grain to the Egyptians
Vannozza Catanei, mistress of and routes to Largo di Torre Argentina
Pope Alexander VI Borgia. or Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. v 8. in Palazzo del Monte di Pietà
On the corner between the
piazza and Via del Pellegrino Chapel open only by appt. Ring above Sotterranei di San
you can see Catanei’s shield, Paolo alla Regola 4
which she had decorated with number between 8.30am and 1.30pm.
her own coat of arms and Via di San Paolo alla Regola. Map 11
those of her husband and her The Monte, as it is known, is C5. Tel 06-6710 3819. @ 23, 116,
lover, the Borgia pope. a public institution, founded 280 and routes to Largo di Torre
in 1539 by Pope Paul III Far- Argentina. v 8. Open by appt only;
Market stalls in Campo de’ Fiori nese as a pawnshop to permit needed (see p383).
staunch the usury then ram-
Palazzo Pio pant in the city. The building An old palace hides the per-
Righetti 2 still has offices and auction fectly conserved remains of
rooms for the sale of unre- an ancient Roman house, dat-
Piazza del Biscione 89. Map 4 E5 & deemed goods. ing from the 2nd–3rd centu-
11 C4. @ 116 and routes to Largo ries. Restoration works are
Torre Argentina or Corso Vittorio The stars with diagonal being carried out in order to
Emanuele II. Not open to the public. bands on the huge central open this site to the public,
plaque decorating the façade but at present it is only possi-
The vast 17th-century Palazzo are the coat of arms of Pope ble to visit by special
Pio Righetti was built over the Clement VIII Aldobrandini, arrangement.
ruined Theatre of Pompey. added when Carlo Maderno
enlarged the palace in the A ramp leads down well
17th century. The clock on below today’s street level, to
the left was added later. reveal the locations of shops
of the time. One level above
Within, the chapel is a jewel is the Stanza della Colonna, at
of Baroque architecture, one time an open courtyard,
adorned with gilded stucco, with traces of frescoes and
marble panelling and reliefs. mosaics on its walls.
The decoration makes a per-
fect setting for the sculptures
by Domenico Guidi – a bust
of San Carlo Borromeo and a

CAMPO DE’ FIORI 147

Palazzo Spada 6 winged skulls. Above the
central entrance there is a
Piazza Capo di Ferro 13. clepsydra (an ancient hour-
Map 2 F5. Tel 06-686 1158 glass) – symbolic of death.
(Palazzo) or 06-32 810 (Galleria). @
23, 116, 280 and routes to Largo di
Torre Argentina. v 8. Galleria
Spada Open 8.30am–7.30pm Tue–
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
Adm charge. ^ 7 8 =
www.galleriaborghese.it

Guido Reni’s Holy Trinity, in This majestic palazzo, built Offertory box in Santa Maria
around 1550 for Cardinal dell’Orazione e Morte
Santissima Trinità dei Pellegrini Capo di Ferro, has an elegant
stuccoed courtyard and Palazzo Farnese 8
Santissima Trinità façade decorated with reliefs
dei Pellegrini 5 evoking Rome’s glorious past. Piazza Farnese. Map 4 E5 & 11 B4.
@ 23, 116, 280 and routes to Corso
Piazza della Trinità dei Pellegrini. Cardinal Bernardino Spada, Vittorio Emanuele II. Not open to
who lived here in the 17th the public.
Map 4 E5 & 11 C5. Tel 06-686 century with his brother Vir-
8451. @ 23, 116, 280 and routes to ginio (also a cardinal), hired The prototype for numerous
Largo di Torre Argentina. v 8. architects Bernini and Borro- princely palaces, the imposing
mini to work on the building. Palazzo Farnese was original-
Open 11.30am–1pm Sun. The brothers’ whimsical ly built for Cardinal Alessan-
delight in false perspectives dro Farnese (who became
The church was donated resulted in a colonnaded gal- Pope Paul III in 1534). He
in the 16th century to lery by Borromini that commissioned the greatest
a charitable organization appears four times longer artists to work on it, starting
founded by San Filippo Neri than it really is. with Antonio da Sangallo the
to care for the poor and sick, Younger as architect in 1517.
in particular the thousands of The cardinals also amassed Michelangelo, who took over
paupers who flocked in pil- a superb private collection of after him, contributed the
grimage to Rome during the paintings, which is now on great cornice and central win-
special holy years known as display in the Galleria Spada. dow of the main façade, and
Jubilees. The 18th-century The collection features a wide the third level of the courtyard.
façade has niches with statues range of artists, including
of the Evangelists by Ber- Rubens, Dürer and Guido Michelangelo had a plan for
nardino Ludovisi. The interior, Reni. The most important the Farnese gardens to be
with Corinthian columns, works on display include The connected by a bridge to the
ends in a horseshoe vault and Visitation by Andrea del Sarto Farnese home in Trastevere,
apse, dominated by Guido (1486–1530), Cain and Abel Villa Farnesina (see pp220–
Reni’s striking altarpiece of by Giovanni Lanfranco 21). The elegant arch span-
the Holy Trinity (1625). The (1582–1647) and The Death of ning Via Giulia belongs to this
frescoes in the lantern are Dido by Guercino sadly unrealized scheme. The
also by Reni. Other interesting (1591–1666). palazzo was completed in
paintings include St Gregory 1589, on a less ambitious
the Great Freeing Souls from Santa Maria scale, by Giacomo della Porta.
Purgatory, by Baldassarre dell’Orazione e It is now the home of the
Croce (third chapel to the Morte 7 French Embassy, which
left); Cavalier d’Arpino’s moved in as early as 1635.
Virgin and Saints (second Via Giulia 262. Map 4 E5 & 11 B4.
chapel to the left); and a Tel 06-6880 2715. @ 23, 116, 280. Majestic façade of Palazzo Farnese
painting by Borgognone Open for 6pm mass Sun. 5
(1677) of the Virgin and
recently canonized saints, A pious confraternity was
including San Filippo Neri. In formed here in the 16th
the sacristy are depictions of century to collect the bodies
the nobility washing the feet of the unknown dead and
of pilgrims, a custom which give them a Christian burial.
was started by San Filippo. The theme of death is
stressed in this church,
dedicated to St Mary of
Prayer and Death. The doors
and windows of Ferdinando
Fuga’s dramatic Baroque
façade are decorated with

148 ROME AREA BY AREA

Spada Chapel in San Girolamo a work of art and as an illus- Santa Maria in
tration of the spirit of the Monserrato q
San Girolamo della Baroque age. All architectural
Carità 9 elements are concealed so Via di Monserrato. Map 4 E4
that the space of the chapel’s & 11 B3. Tel 06-686 5865.
Via di Monserrato 62A. interior is defined solely by @ 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 116, 280.
Map 4 E5 & 11 B4. decorative marblework and Open for mass only, 10am–
Tel 06-687 9786. statues. Veined jasper and 1.30pm Sun. 5
@ 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 116, 280. precious multicoloured mar-
Open 10.30–11.30am Sun. 5 bles are sculpted to imitate An early bust by Bernini of Cardinal
flowery damask and velvet Pedro Foix de Montoya
hangings. Even the altar rail is
a long swag of jasper drapery The origins of the Spanish
held up by a pair of kneeling national church in Rome go
angels with wooden wings. back to 1506, when a hospice
for Spanish pilgrims was
Although there are memori- begun by a brotherhood of
als to former members of the the Virgin of Montserrat in
Spada family, oddly there is Catalonia. Inside is Annibale
no indication as to which of Carracci’s painting San Diego
the Spadas was responsible de Alcalà and, in the third
for endowing the chapel. It chapel on the left, a copy of a
was probably art-lover Virgilio Sansovino statue of St James.
Spada, a follower of San Filip- Some beautiful 15th-century
po Neri. tombs by Andrea Bregno and
Luigi Capponi are in the court-
Sant’Eligio degli yard and side chapels. Don’t
miss Bernini’s bust of Pedro
The church was built on a site Orefici 0 Foix de Montoya, the church’s
incorporating the home of benefactor, in the annexe.

San Filippo Neri, the 16th- Via di Sant’Eligio 8A. Map 4 D4 & San Diego by Annibale Carracci

century saint from Tuscany 11 B4. Tel 06-686 8260. @ 23, 40,

who renewed Rome’s spiritual 46, 62, 64, 116, 280. Open 10am–

and cultural life by his friend- 1pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri. Telephone

ly, open approach to religion. booking required. Closed Aug. 5

He would have loved the frol-

icking putti shown surround- The name of the church still

ing his statue, in his chapel, records the fact that it was

reminding him of the Roman commissioned by a rich cor-

urchins he had cared for dur- poration of goldsmiths (orefi-

ing his lifetime. ci) in the early 16th century.

The breathtaking Spada The original design was by

Chapel was designed by Bor- Raphael, who, like his master

romini, and is unique both as Bramante, had acquired a

sense of the grandiose

from the remains of

Roman antiquity. The

influence of some of

Bramante’s works,

such as the choir of

Santa Maria del Popolo

(see pp138–9), is evi-

dent in the simple way

the arches and pilas-

ters define the struc-

ture of the walls.

The cupola of Sant’

Eligio is attributed to

Baldassarre Peruzzi,

while the façade was

added in the early 17th

century by Flaminio

Ponzio. Among the

various 16th-century

painters who decorat-

ed the interior was

Taddeo Zuccari, who

worked on Palazzo

Statue of San Filippo Neri by Pierre Legros Farnese (see p147).