Rome

VAT I C A N 249

STAR FEATURES VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. View from Terrace
Lungotevere Castello 50
. Sala Paolina (entrance through gardens to
the right of building). Map 4 D3
. Staircase of & 11 A1. Tel 06-3996 7600.
Alexander VI @ 23, 34, 62 to Lungotevere
Vaticano; 34, 49, 87, 280, 492,
Bronze Angel 926, 990 to Piazza Cavour.
The gigantic statue of the Open 9am–8pm (last adm: 7pm)
Archangel Michael is Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
by the 18th-century Adm charge. - 9 7 8 =
Flemish sculptor Exhibitions
Pieter Verschaffelt. www.galleriaborghese.it

The Round Hall houses the original model . Sala Paolina
from which Verschaffelt’s angel was cast. The illusionistic frescoes
by Perin del Vaga and
Pellegrino Tibaldi
(1546–8) include one of
a courtier entering the
room through a painted
door.

Ventilation Hall of Apollo
shaft The room is frescoed

. Staircase of with scenes from
Alexander VI mythology attributed
This staircase cuts to the pupils of Perin

right through del Vaga (1548).
the heart of the
building.

Bridge

TIMELINE 590 Legendary date 1493 Pope Alexander VI Façade
of appearance of restores Vatican Corridor of Castel
AD 139 Archangel Michael Sant’Angelo
Mausoleum above the castle 1390 Pope Boniface IX
completed by remodels the castle
Antoninus Pius

AD 100 500 1000 1500

271 Tomb is 1527 Castle withstands 1557 Ramparts
incorporated into siege during Sack of Rome built to protect
Aurelian Wall the castle
and fortified

AD 130 Hadrian begins Cannonballs in 1542–9 Sala Paolina 1870 Castle
family mausoleum the Courtyard and apartments built used as barracks
and military prison
of Honour for Pope Paul III



ROME AREA BY AREA 251

VIA VENETO

In Imperial Rome, this When Rome became capital of
was a suburb where Italy in 1870, the Ludovisi sold
rich families owned their land for development.

luxurious villas and They kept a plot for a new

gardens. Ruins from house, but tax on the

this era can be seen in profits from the sale was

the excavations in Piazza so high, they had to sell

Sallustio, named after the that too. By 1900, Via

most extensive gardens in the Film director Federico Fellini Veneto had become
area, the Horti Sallustiani. After a street of smart mod-

the Sack of Rome in the 5th century, ern hotels and cafés. It featured

the area reverted to open countryside. prominently in Fellini’s 1960 film La

Not until the 17th century did it Dolce Vita, a scathing satire on the

recover its lost splendour, with the lives of film stars and idle rich, but

building of Palazzo Barberini and since then has lost its position as the

the now-vanished Villa Ludovisi. meeting place of the famous.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE SEE ALSO GETTING THERE
• Street Finder, map 5 This is one of the easiest parts
Churches and Temples • Where to Stay pp308–9 of Rome to reach by public
Santa Maria della • Restaurants pp326–7 transport. Barberini and
Repubblica Metro stations on
Concezione 3 0 metres 200 line A are very handy, and
Santa Maria della Vittoria 8 0 yards 200 Stazione Termini is only
Santa Susanna 7 10–15 minutes’ walk away.
The Via Veneto itself starts at
Historic Buildings Piazza Barberini, well served
Casino dell’Aurora 2 by buses from all parts of the
Palazzo Barberini 6 city. The 95 goes the whole
length of Via Veneto to Porta
Famous Streets Pinciana. Other useful routes
Via Veneto 1 include the 52, 53, 63, 80, 116
and 119.
Fountains
Fontana del Tritone 5
Fontana delle Api 4

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The onset of autumn in Via Veneto

252 ROME AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Via Veneto

The streets around Via Veneto, though within the walls Casino dell’Aurora

of ancient Rome, contain little dating from before the A pavilion is all that

unification of Italy in 1870. With its hotels, restaurants, remains of the gr

bars and travel agencies, the area is the centre of Ludovisi estate t

20th-century tourism in the way that Piazza di Spagna once occupied mos

was the hub of the tourist trade in the Rome of the this quarter of Rome

18th-century Grand Tour. However, glimpses of the

old city can be seen among the modern streets. These Santa Maria de
include Santa Maria della Concezione, the church of the Concezione
Capuchin friars, whose convent once stood in its own This church is best
gardens. In the 17th century Palazzo Barberini was built known for the
here for the powerful papal family. Bernini’s Fontana macabre colle
del Tritone and Fontana delle Api have stood in Piazza b
Barberini since it was the meeting place of cart tracks

entering the city from

surrounding vineyards.

Fontana delle Api
Bernini’s drinking
fountain is decora
with bees, emblem
his Barberini
patrons 4

Fontana del Tritone
Bernini’s muscular sea god
has been spouting water
skywards for 350 years 5

. Palazzo

Barberini V IA
Pietro da Cortona
of XX S E T
worked on his spectacular T E
Divine M B
R E

ceiling fresco The Triumph

Providence between 1633 and 1639 6

VIA VENETO 253

The Porta Pinciana 7JMMB
was built in AD 403. #PSHIFTF
Only the central
arch of white
travertine is
original.

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CATOR MAP
Central Rome Map pp14–15

Via Veneto
Built during the
redevelopment of Rome at
the end of the 19th century,
this street of smart hotels and
spacious pavement cafés
enjoyed its heyday during
the 1950s and 1960s 1

Santa Susanna STAR SIGHTS
This church is . Palazzo Barberini
dedicated to a
. Santa Maria
martyr executed della Vittoria
during Diocletian’s
KEY
persecution of
Christians in the Suggested route
3rd century AD 7

0 metres 75

0 yards 75

. Santa Maria
della Vittoria
The highlight of this
Baroque church is
the Cornaro Chapel,
designed to resemble a
theatre. The centre of
the stage is occupied
by Bernini’s thrilling
sculpture of The
Ecstasy of St Teresa 8

254 ROME AREA BY AREA

Pavement café in Via Veneto Ludovisi palace. It was Fontana delle
built by Cardinal Api 4
Via Veneto 1 Ludovisi in the 17th
century, and frescoed Piazza Barberini. Map 5 B2. @ 52,
Map 5 B1. @ 52, 53, 63, 80, 95, by Guercino. The ceil-
116, 119 and many routes to Piazza ing fresco creates the 53, 61, 62, 63, 80, 95, 116, 119, 175.
Barberini. Q Barberini. impression that the Q Barberini.
Casino has no roof, but
Via Veneto descends in a lazy lies open to a cloudy The fountain of the bees – api
curve from the Porta Pinciana sky, across which are bees, symbol of the Bar-
to Piazza Barberini, lined in its horses pull the carriage berini family – is one of
upper reaches with exuberant of Aurora, the goddess Bernini’s more modest works.
late 19th-century hotels and of dawn, from the darkness of Tucked away in a corner of
canopied pavement cafés. It night towards the light of day. Piazza Barberini, it is quite
was laid out in 1879 over a easy to miss. Dating from
large estate sold by the Ludo- Santa Maria della 1644, it pays homage to Pope
visi family in the great build- Concezione 3 Urban VIII Barberini, and fea-
ing boom of Rome’s first years tures rather crab-like bees
as capital of Italy. Palazzo Via Veneto 27. Map 5 B2. which appear to be sipping
Margherita, intended to be the Tel 06-487 1185. @ 52, 53, the water as it dribbles down
new Ludovisi family palazzo, 61, 62, 63, 80, 95, 116, 119, 175. into the basin. A Latin inscrip-
was completed in 1890. It now Q Barberini. tion informs us that the water
houses the American embassy. Open 7am–noon, 3–7pm daily. is for the use of the public
Crypt open 9am–noon, 3–6pm and their animals.
In the 1960s this was the Fri–Wed. Donation expected. 5
most glamorous street in
Rome, its cafés patronized by Pope Urban VIII’S brother,
film stars and plagued by the
paparazzi. Most of the people Antonio Barberini was a
drinking in the cafés today are
tourists, as film stars now seem cardinal and a Capuchin friar.
to prefer the livelier bohemian
atmosphere of Trastevere. In 1626 he founded this plain,

Palazzo Margherita, the US embassy unassuming church at what is

Casino now the foot of the Via Veneto.
dell’Aurora 2
When he died he was buried
Via Lombardia 46. Map 5 B2.
Tel 06-48 39 42. Fax 06-4201 0745. not, like most cardinals, in a
@ 52, 53, 63, 80, 95, 116, 119.
Q Barberini. Open by appt only. grand marble sarcophagus,
Ring above number, then fax.
but below a simple flag-
The Casino (a stately country
residence) was a summer- stone near the altar, with
house on the grounds of the
the bleak epitaph in

Latin: “Here lies dust,

ashes, nothing”.

The grim reality of

death is illustrated even more Bernini’s Fontana delle Api

graphically in the crypt beneath

the church, where generations Fontana del
of Capuchin friars decorated
the walls of the five vaulted Tritone 5
chapels with the bones and

skulls of their departed Piazza Barberini. Map 5 B3. @ 52,

brethren. In all, some 4,000 53, 61, 62, 63, 80, 95, 116, 119, 175.

skeletons were used over Q Barberini.

about 100 years to create this

macabre memento mori started In the centre of busy Piazza

in the late 17th century. Some Barberini is one of Bernini’s

of the bones are wired together liveliest creations, the Triton

to form Christian symbols Fountain. It was created for

such as crowns of th Urban VIII Barberini

sacred hearts and 642, shortly after the

crucifixes. There are mpletion of his palace

also some complete the ridge above.

skeletons, including robatic dolphins stand

one of a Barberini their heads, twisting

princess who died as eir tails together to

child. At the exit, an upport a huge scallop

inscription in Latin hell on which the sea

reads: “What you are, od Triton kneels,

we used to be. What owing a spindly

we are, you will be.” Pope Urban VIII column of water up into

VIA VENETO 255

the air through a conch shell. by Filippo Lippi, El Greco and Santa Maria della
Entwined artistically among Caravaggio. There is also a
the dolphins’ tails are the papal Holbein portrait of King Henry Vittoria 8
tiara, the keys of St Peter and
the Barberini coat of arms. VIII of England dressed for his Via XX Settembre 17. Map 5 C2.
wedding to Anne of Cleves. Tel 06-4274 0571. @ 60, 61, 62,
The Triton and his conch shell in Of greater local significance 84, 492, 910. Q Repubblica. Open
Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone are Guido Reni’s Beatrice
Cenci, the young woman 9am–noon, 3.30–6pm Mon–Sat;
Palazzo Barberini 6 executed for planning her 3.30–6pm Sun. 5 ^

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13. father’s murder (see p152), Santa Maria della Vittoria is an
Map 5 B3. Tel 06-482 4184.
@ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 80, 95, and La Fornarina, traditionally intimate Baroque church with
116, 175, 492, 590. Q Barberini.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sat (last adm identified as a portrait of a lavishly decorated candlelit
30 mins before closing). Closed
public hols. Adm charge. Raphael’s mistress (see p210), interior. It contains one of
8=de7^
www.galleriaborghese.it although not necessarily Bernini’s most ambitious sculp-

When Maffei Barberini became painted by him. tural works, The Ecstasy of St
Pope Urban VIII in 1623 he
decided to build a grand Teresa (1646), centrepiece of
palace for his family on the
fringes of the city, overlooking Santa Susanna 7 the Cornaro Chapel, built to
a ruined temple. The architect, resemble a miniature theatre.
Carlo Maderno, designed it as
a typical rural villa, with wings It even has an audience:
extending into the surrounding
gardens. Maderno died in Via XX Settembre 14. Map 5 C2. sculptures of the chapel’s
1629 and Bernini took over,
assisted by Borromini. The Tel 06-4201 4554. @ 60, 61, 62, benefactor, Cardinal Federico
peculiar pediments on some
of the top floor windows, and 84, 175, 492, 910. Q Repubblica. Cornaro, and his ancestors sit
the oval staircase inside, are
almost certainly by Borromini. Open 9am–noon, 4–7pm daily. 5 in boxes, as if watching and

Of the many sumptuously discussing the scene occur-
decorated rooms, the most
striking is the Gran Salone, ring in front of them.
with a dazzling illusionistic
ceiling fresco by Pietro da Visitors may be shocked or
Cortona. The palazzo also
houses paintings from the 13th thrilled by the apparently
to the 16th centuries, part of
the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte physical nature of St Teresa’s
Antica, with important works
ecstasy. She lies on a cloud,

her mouth half open and her

eyelids closed, with rippling

drapery covering her body.

Looking over her with a smile,

which from different angles

can appear either tender or

cruel, is a curly-haired angel

holding an arrow with which

he is about to pierce the saint’s

Façade of Santa Susanna body for a second time. The

marble figures are framed and

Santa Susanna’s most striking illuminated by rays of divine

feature is its vigorous Baroque light materialized in bronze.

façade by Carlo Mad-

erno, finished in 1603.

Christians have wor-

shipped on the site

since at least the 4th

century. In the nave,

there are four huge

frescoes by Baldassarre

Croce (1558–1628),

painted to resemble

tapestries. These depict

scenes from the life of

Susanna, an obscure

Roman saint who was

martyred here, and the

rather better-known

life of the Old Testa-

ment Susanna, who was

spotted bathing in her

husband’s garden by

two lecherous judges.

Santa Susanna is the

Catholic church for

Americans in Rome

and holds services in

English every day. Bernini’s astonishing Ecstasy of St Teresa



257

FURTHER AFIELD

The more inquisitive Grand Tour (see p130), such
visitor to Rome may as the catacombs and the
wish to try a few ruined aqueducts of Parco

excursions to the large Appio Claudio, still offer

parks and some of the glimpses of the rapidly

more isolated churches vanishing Campagna,

on the outskirts of the the countryside around

city. With a day to spare, Rome. More modern

you can explore the villas sights include the suburb

of Tivoli and the ruins of the of EUR, built in the Fascist

ancient Roman port of Ostia. Dish (3rd century BC) era, and the memorial at the

Traditional haunts of the in Villa Giulia Fosse Ardeatine.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Museums and Galleries Parks and Gardens
Centrale Montemartini y Villa Borghese 1
Towns and Areas Museo di Arte Contemporanea Villa d’Este o
EUR r Villa Doria Pamphilj u
Tivoli i di Roma 4 Villa Gregoriana p
Museo e Galleria Borghese
Historic Roads Tombs and Catacombs
Via Appia Antica 8 pp260–61 2 Catacombs of Domitilla q
Villa Giulia pp262–3 3 Catacombs of San Callisto 9
Churches Catacombs of San Sebastiano 0
San Lorenzo fuori le Mura 7 Ancient Sites Fosse Ardeatine w
San Paolo fuori le Mura t Hadrian’s Villa a Tomb of Cecilia Metella e
Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura 6 Ostia Antica s
Santa Costanza 5

SIGHTS OUTSIDE ROME KEY
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Caryatids beside the canal of the Canopus at Hadrian’s Villa

258 ROME AREA BY AREA

Villa Borghese 1

Map 2 E5. @ 52, 53, 88, 95, 116, British School at Rome, designed by Edwin Lutyens in 1911
490, 495. v 3, 19. Park open
dawn to sunset. Bioparco Viale del In 1901 the park became originally surrounded by
Giardino Zoologico 20. Map 2 E4.
Tel 06-360 8211. @ 52. v 3, 19. the property of the Italian formal gardens: the Casino
Open daily. Closed 25 Dec. 7 0
- = Galleria Nazionale d’Arte state. Within its 6-km (4-mile) Borghese and the nearby
Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131.
Map 2 D4. Tel 06-3229 8221. v 3, circumference there are now 17th-century Casino della
19. Open 8.30am–7.30pm Tue–Sun
(last adm 6.45pm). Closed 1 May. 7 museums and galleries, foreign Meridiana and its aviary
8 0 - = Museo Carlo Bilotti
Viale Fiorello La Guardia. Map 2 D5. academies and schools of (uccelliera) have both
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. Adm charge. 8 archaeology, a zoo, a riding kept their geometrical

The villa and its park were school, a grassy amphi- flowerbeds.
designed in 1605 for Cardinal
Scipione Borghese, nephew theatre, an artificial lake, an Throughout the
of Pope Paul V. The park was
the first of its kind in Rome. It aviary and an array of park the intersections
contained 400 newly-planted
pine trees, garden sculpture summer-houses, fountains, of paths and
by Bernini’s father, Pietro,
and dramatic waterworks Neo-Classical statuary and avenues are marked
built by Giovanni Fontana.
The layout of the formal exotic follies. by fountains and
gardens was imitated by
other prominent Roman There are several ways statues. West of
families at Villa Ludovisi
and Villa Doria Pamphilj. into the park, including a Piazza di Siena is

In the early 19th century monumental entrance the Fontana dei
Prince Camillo Borghese
assembled the family’s magni- on Piazzale Flaminio, Cavalli Marini
ficent art collection in the
Casino Borghese, now the built for Prince Camillo (the Fountain
home of the Galleria and
Museo Borghese. Borghese in 1825 by of the Seahorses)

Neo-Classical Temple of Diana Luigi Canina. Other added during

conveniently-sited the villa’s 18th-

entrances are at Porta century remodel-

Pinciana at the end ling. Walking

of Via Veneto and through the

from the Pincio park you will

Gardens (see p136). Statue of the English poet encounter

Piazza di Byron by Thorvaldsen statues of

Siena, a Byron, Goethe

pleasantly open, and Victor Hugo, and a gloomy

grass-coveredamphi- equestrian King Umberto I.

theatre surrounded Dotted about the park are

by tall umbrella picturesque temples made to

pines, was the look like ruins, including a

inspiration for circular Temple of Diana

Ottorino Respighi’s between Piazza di Siena and

famous symphonic Porta Pinciana, and a Temple

poem The Pines of of Faustina, wife of Emperor

Rome, written in Antoninus Pius, on the hill

1924. Near Piazza north of Piazza di Siena. The

di Siena are the nearby medieval-looking

so-called Casina Fortezzuola by Canina

di Raffaello, said contains the works of the

to have been owned sculptor Pietro Canonica, who

by Raphael, and lived in the building and died

the 18th-century there in 1959. In the garden

Palazzetto dell’ stands Canonica’s Monument

Orologio. These to the Alpino and his Mule,

were summerhouses which honours the humblest

from which people protagonists in Italy’s alpine

enjoyed the battles against Austria in

beautiful vistas World War I.

across the park. In the centre of the park

Many buildings in is the Giardino del Lago, its

the park were main entrance marked by an

FURTHER AFIELD 259

include one of Simon Bolivar

and other liberators of Latin

America, and the Persian

poet, Firdusi.

In the northeastern corner

of the park lie the Museo

Zoologico and a small re-

developed Zoo, the Bioparco,

where the emphasis is on

conservation. Nearby, the

pretty 16th-century Villa

Giulia houses a world-famous

collection of Etruscan and

other pre-Roman remains.

Another Renaissance building

of importance is the Palazzina

of Pius IV, close

to the Via

Flaminia

entrance,

designed by the

architect Vignola

in 1552. It now

houses the

Italian embassy Bioparco symbol

to the Holy See.

Named after its principal

benefactor, the Museo Carlo

Bilotti is the most recent

addition to the park. Situated

in the centre of the Villa

Borghese, this former orangery

has been transformed into a

Ionic temple dedicated to Aesculapius, built on the lake island modern art gallery boasting

works by Giorgio de Chirico,

18th-century copy of the Arch from the International as well as Andy Warhol, Larry

of Septimius Severus. The Exhibition held here in 1911, Rivers and Gino Severini.

garden has an artificial lake for which pavilions were built

complete with an Ionic temple by many nations, the most Museo e Galleria
Borghese 2
to Aesculapius, the god of impressive being the British

health, by the 18th-century School at Rome, by Edwin

architect Antonio Asprucci. Lutyens, with a façade adapted

Rowing boats and ducks make from the upper west portico See pp260–61.

the lake a favourite with of St Paul’s Cathedral in

children, banana trees and London. Originally a School
bamboo grow around the
of Archaeology, it is now a Villa Giulia 3
shore, and clearings are research institute for Classical

studded with sculptures. studies, history and the visual See pp262–3.

Surrounded by flowerbeds arts. Nearby

south of the lake is the Art statues

Nouveau Fontana dei Fauni,

one of the garden’s prettiest

sculptures. In a clearing

close to the entrance on

Viale Pietro Canonica are the

original Tritons of the Fontana

del Moro in Piazza Navona

(see p120) – they were moved

here and replaced by copies

in the 19th century.

From the northwest the park

is entered by the Viale delle

Belle Arti, where the Galleria

Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

houses a good collection of

19th- and 20th-century

paintings. The Art Nouveau

character of the area dates A stone lion guarding the ornate entrance to the Zoo

260 ROME AREA BY AREA

Museo e Galleria Borghese 2

The villa and park were laid out by Façade of the Villa Borghese
Cardinal Scipione Borghese, favourite This painting (1613) by the villa’s Flemish
nephew of Paul V, who had the house architect Jan van Santen shows the highly
designed for pleasure and entertainment. ornate façade of the original design.
The hedonistic cardinal was also an
extravagant patron of the arts and he . Rape of Proserpine
commissioned sculptures from the young One of Bernini’s finest
Bernini which now rank among his most works shows Pluto (Hades)
famous works. Scipione also opened his abducting his bride. The
pleasure park to the public. Today the sculptor’s amazing
villa houses the superb private Borghese skill with marble
collection of sculptures and paintings in can be seen
the Museo and clearly in the
Galleria Borghese. twisting
figures.
MUSEUM GUIDE
The museum is
divided into two
sections: the sculpture
collection (Museo
Borghese) occupies
the entire ground
floor and the picture
gallery (Galleria
Borghese) is on the
upper floor. The
Galleria Borghese
has reopened to the
public after extensive
restoration work.

Sleeping The Egyptian Room
Hermaphrodite Frescoes show episodes
This is a marble in Egyptian history and
Roman copy of the Egyptian motifs.
Greek original by
Polycles, dated around Early 1800s Statues and 1809 Much of the 1902 Villa,
150 BC. The head and reliefs are considered too collection is sold grounds and
mattress were added ornate and stripped from the by Prince Camillo
by Andrea Bergondi Borghese to France collection
in the 17th century. villa’s façade and goes to Louvre bought by

TIMELINE 1725 1825 the state

1613 15-year-old Bernini Daphne’s 1805 Canova sculpts Early 1900s
sculpts Aeneas and Anchises fingers
turning the semi-nude,
1622–5 Bernini sculpts into leaves reclining Pauline Balustrade round the
The Rape of Proserpine forecourt is bought
Borghese
1625 by Lord Astor for

1622–5 Bernini sculpts the Cliveden estate
Apollo and Daphne
in England
1613–15 The Flemish
architect Jan van
Santen designs and
builds Villa Borghese

RTHER AFIELD 261

Rear . Apollo and Daphne VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
entrance Bernini’s most famous
masterpiece depicts the Villa Borghese, Piazzale Scipione
nymph Daphne fleeing Borghese 5. Map 2 F5.
the sun god Apollo at Tel 06-328 10 (reservations).
the moment of Daphne’s Fax 06-3265 1329. @ 52, 53,
dramatic transfor- 116, 910 to Via Pinciana.
mation into a tree. v 3, 19 to Viale delle Belle Arti.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun (last
David is captured the adm 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
moment before he 1 May, 25 Dec. Adm charge.
slays Goliath in the Advance booking recommended
sculpture by Bernini, weekdays and obligatory Sat &
who modelled his Sun. 8 9 7 ^ - =
face on his own. www.galleriaborghese.it

. Galleria Borghese
The gallery has old master
paintings, such as Titian’s
Sacred and Profane Love
(detail) dating from 1514.

. Pauline Borghese
Napoleon’s sister Pauline posed
as Venus for this sculpture.
Once the statue was finished,
her husband locked it
away, even from its
sculptor Canova.

Front entrance

KEY TO FLOORPLAN Gladiator Mosaic STAR SCULPTURES
Exhibition space The floor is decorated with the . Rape of Proserpine by
Non-exhibition space fragments of a 4th-century AD
mosaic from a villa in Torrenova. Bernini

. Apollo and Daphne by
Bernini

. Galleria Borghese

. Pauline Borghese
by Canova

262 ROME AREA BY AREA

Villa Giulia 3 . Ficoroni Cist
Engraved and
This villa was built as a beautifully illustrated,
country retreat for Pope
Julius III, and was designed this fine bronze
for entertaining rather marriage coffer
than as a permanent dates from the 4th
home. It once housed an century BC.
impressive collection of
statues – 160 boatloads Chigi Oinochoe
were sent to the Vatican Battle and hunting
after the pope died in scenes adorn this
1555. The villa, gardens,
pavilions and fountains Corinthian vase
were designed by from the 6th
exceptional architects: century BC.
Vignola (designer of the Gesù),
Vasari and the sculptor Ammannati.
Michelangelo also contributed. The villa’s
main features are its façade, the court-
yard and garden and the nymphaeum.
Since 1889 Villa Giulia has housed the
Museo Nazionale Etrusco, with its out-
standing collection of pre-Roman
antiquities from central Italy.

. Husband and
Wife Sarcophagus
This 6th-century BC
masterpiece, from
Cerveteri, shows a
dead couple at the
eternal banquet.

MUSEUM GUIDE m
This is the most
important Etruscan Votive Offering
museum in Italy, The religious
housing artifacts from Etruscans made
most of the major exca- artifacts, such as
vations in Tuscany this model of a boy
and Lazio. Rooms feeding a bird, in
1–10 and 23–34 are their gods’ honour.
arranged by site and
include Vulci, Todi,
Veio and Cerveteri,
while private collections
are in rooms 11–22.

TIMELINE

1550 Work 1655 Queen Christina 1889 Etruscan 1919 Castellani
begins on Villa of Sweden stays in museum founded private collection
Giulia under villa as Vatican guest donated to
Pope Julius III Late 1700s First large-scale museum
studies of Etruscan artifacts
1550 1950
1650 1750 1850
1972 Pesciotti
Late 1500s First, chance finds 1908 Barberini private collection
of Etruscan artifacts raise private collection bought by the state
some scholastic interest
bought by
Corner decoration the state
1555 Villa completed of bronze chariot

used to burn incense

FURTHER AFIELD 263

Façade VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The villa’s façade dates
Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9.
from 1552–3. The Map 1 C4.
entrance is designed Tel 06-322 6571.
@ 52, 926 to Viale Bruno
in the form of a Buozzi, 88, 95, 490, 495 to Viale
triumphal Washington.
arch. v 3, 19 to Piazza Thorwaldsen.
Open 8.30am–7.30pm Tue–Sun
(last adm 6.30pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. Adm charge.
8 with seven days’ notice.
9-=7^
Concerts in the courtyard in July.

. Reconstruction
of an Etruscan Temple
Count Adolfo Cozza built the Temple
of Alatri here in 1891. He based his
design on the accounts of Vitruvius
and 19th-century excavations.

Nymphaeum
Literally, the “area

dedicated to the
nymphs”, this is a
sunken courtyard

decorated with
Classical mosaics,
statues and fountains.

m

STAR EXHIBITS
. Husband and Wife

Sarcophagus

. Ficoroni Cist

. Reconstruction of an
Etruscan Temple

Main entrance Faliscan Crater KEY TO FLOORPLAN
of the Dawn Ground floor
This ornate vase, First floor
painted in the free Non-exhibition space
style of the 4th century
BC, shows Dawn
rising in a chariot.

264 ROME AREA BY AREA

Museo di Arte
Contemporanea
di Roma 4

Via Reggio Emilia 54. Map 6 E1. Part of the 4th-century mosaic in the ambulatory of Santa Costanza
Tel 06-6710 70400. @ 36, 60, 84,
90. Open 9am–6.30pm Tue–Sun.
Adm charge. = -
www.macro.roma.museum

The historic Peroni beer vaulted ceiling decorated with a covered cemetery, some
factory on Via Reggio Emilia wonderful 4th-century mosaics extensive catacombs and the
is now home to MACRO, the of flora and fauna and crypt where the 13-year-old
city’s gallery of contemporary charming scenes of a Roman martyr St Agnes was buried in
art. Apart from a permanent grape harvest. In a niche on AD 304. Agnes was exposed
collection of late 20th-century the far side of the church from naked by order of Emperor
art, featuring artists such as the entrance is a replica of Diocletian, furious that she
Carla Accardi, Achille Perilli Constantia’s ornately carved should have rejected the
and Mario Schifano, there porphyry sarcophagus. The advances of a young man
are interesting exhibitions original was moved to the at his court, but her hair
showcasing the latest Vatican Museums in 1790. miraculously grew to protect
developments on the local her modesty (see p121).
and national scene. Constantia’s sanctity
is debatable – she was The church is said to have
Interior of Santa Costanza described by the historian been built at the request of
Marcellinus as a fury the Emperor Constantine’s
Santa Costanza 5 incarnate, constantly goading daughter, Constantia, after
her equally unpleasant she had prayed at the Tomb
husband Hannibalianus to of St Agnes for delivery
violence. Her canonization from leprosy.
was probably the result of
some confusion with a saintly Though much altered over
nun of the same name. the centuries, the form and
much of the structure of the
Sant’Agnese fuori 4th-century basilica remain
le Mura 6 intact. In the 7th-century apse
mosaic St Agnes appears as a
Via Nomentana 349. Tel 06-861 bejewelled Byzantine empress
0840. @ 36, 60, 84, 90. in a stole of gold and a violet
Open 9am–noon, 4–6pm daily. robe. According to tradition
Adm charge to catacombs. she appeared like this 8 days
78 after her death holding a
white lamb. Every year on 21
The church of Sant’Agnese January two lambs are blessed
stands among a group of on the church altar and a
early Christian buildings vestment called the pallium is
which includes the ruins of woven from their wool. Every
newly appointed archbishop
is sent a pallium by the pope.

Via Nomentana 349. Tel 06-861
0840. @ 36, 60, 84, 90. Open

9am–noon, 4–6pm Mon–Sat, 4–6pm
Sun. Adm charge. 7 8

The round church of Santa Apse mosaic in Sant’Agnese, showing the saint flanked by two popes
Costanza was first built as
a mausoleum for Emperor
Constantine’s daughters
Constantia and Helena, in the
early 4th century. The dome
and its drum are supported by
a circular arcade resting on 12
magnificent pairs of granite
columns. The ambulatory that
runs around the outside of the
central arcade has a barrel-

FURTHER AFIELD 265

Cloister, San Lorenzo fuori le Mura Via Appia Antica 8 The rooms and connecting
passageways are hewn out of
San Lorenzo fuori @ 118, 218. See Walks pp284–5. volcanic tufa. The dead were
le Mura 7 placed in niches, known as
The first part of the Via Appia loculi, which held two or three
Piazzale del Verano 3. Tel 06-49 15 was built in 312 BC by the bodies. The most important
11. @ 71, 492. v 3, 19. Open Censor Appius Claudius rooms were decorated with
7.30am–12.30pm, 3.30–6.30pm Caecus. When it was extended stucco and frescoes. The area
(7.30pm in summer) daily. 7 to the ports of Benevento, that can be visited includes
Taranto and Brindisi in 190 the Crypt of the Popes, where
Just outside the eastern wall BC, the road became Rome’s many of the early popes were
of the city stands the church link with its expanding empire buried, and the Crypt of Santa
of San Lorenzo. Roasted in the East. It was the route Cecilia, where the saint’s body
slowly to death in AD 258, taken by the funeral proces- was discovered in 820 before
San Lorenzo was one of the sions of the dictator Sulla (78 being moved to her church in
most revered of Rome’s early BC) and Emperor Augustus Trastevere (see p211).
Christian martyrs. The first (AD 14) and it was along this
basilica erected over his burial road that St Paul was led a Catacombs of San
place by Constantine was prisoner to Rome in AD 56. Sebastiano 0
largely rebuilt in 576 by Pope Gradually abandoned during
Pelagius II. Close by stood a the Middle Ages, the road was Via Appia Antica 136. Tel 06-785
5th-century church dedicated restored by Pope Pius IV in 0350. @ 118, 218. Open 9am–
to the Virgin Mary. The the mid-16th century. It is noon, 2–5pm (Oct–Mar: 5pm) Mon–
intriguing two-level church lined with ruined family tombs Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, mid-
we see today is the result of and collective burial places Nov–mid-Dec, 25 Dec. Adm charge.
these two churches being known as columbaria. Beneath 5 8 = www.catacombe.roma.it
knocked into one. This the fields on either side lies a
process, started in the 8th vast maze of catacombs. Today The 17th-century church of
century, was completed in the road starts at Porta San San Sebastiano, above the
the 13th century by Pope Sebastiano (see p196). Major catacombs, occupies the site
Honorius III, when Christian sights include the of a basilica. Preserved at the
the nave, the church of Domine Quo Vadis?, entrance to the catacombs is
portico and much built where St Peter is said to the triclia, a building that
of the decoration have met Christ while fleeing once stood above ground and
were added. The from Rome, and the Cata- was used by mourners for
remains of San combs of San Callisto and San taking funeral refreshments. Its
Lorenzo are in the Sebastiano. The tombs lining walls are covered with graffiti
choir of the 6th- the road include those of invoking St Peter and St Paul,
century church Cecilia Metella (see p266) and whose remains may have
(beneath the Romulus (son of Emperor been moved here during one
13th-century Maxentius) who died in 309. of the periods of persecution.
high altar). The ancient Villa dei Quintilli
is nearby, at Via Appia Nuova Cypresses lining part of the Roman
Romanesque 1092 (phone 06-481 5576). Via Appia Antica

bell tower of Catacombs of
San Callisto 9
San Lorenzo
Via Appia Antica 126. Tel 06-5130
1580. @ 118, 218. Open 9am–

noon, 2–5pm (Oct–Mar: 5pm)

Thu–Tue. Closed 1 Jan, Feb, Easter
Sun & 25 Dec. Adm charge. 5 ^
8 - = www.catacombe.roma.it

In burying their dead in
underground cemeteries out-
side the city walls, the early
Christians were obeying the
laws of the time: it was not
because of persecution. So
many saints were buried that
the catacombs became shrines
and places of pilgrimage.

The vast Catacombs of San
Callisto are on four different
levels and only partly explored.

266 ROME AREA BY AREA

Catacombs of now a memorial to the values EUR’s Palazzo della Civiltà del
Domitilla q of the Resistance against the
Nazi occupation, which gave Lavoro, the “Square Colosseum”
Via delle Sette Chiese 282. Tel 06- birth to the modern Italian
511 0342. @ 218, 716. Open Republic (see p185). A EUR r
9am–noon, 2–5pm (Oct–Mar: forbidding bunker-like
5pm) Wed–Mon. Closed Jan, Easter monument houses the rows @ 170, 671, 714 and other routes .
Sun, 25 Dec. Adm charge. ^ 8 of identical tombs containing Q EUR Fermi, EUR Palasport. Museo
the victims.
This network of catacombs is della Civiltà Romana Piazza G.
the largest in Rome. Many of Beside it is a museum of
the tombs from the 1st and the Resistance. Interesting Agnelli 10. Tel 06-5422 0919.
2nd centuries AD have no works of modern sculpture
Christian connection. In the include The Martyrs, by Open 9am–1pm Tue–Fri (to 1.30pm
burial chambers there are Francesco Coccia, and the
frescoes of both Classical and gates shaped like a wall of Sat & Sun). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
Christian scenes, including thorns by Mirko Basaldella.
one of the earliest depictions 25 Dec. Adm charge.
of Christ as the Good Shepherd. Tomb of Cecilia
Above the catacombs stands Metella e The Esposizione Universale di
the basilica of Santi Nereo e Roma (EUR), a suburb south
Achilleo. After rebuilding and Via Appia Antica, km 3. of the city, was built for an
restoration, little remains of Tel 06-3996 7700. @ 118, 660. international exhibition, a
the original 4th-century church. Open 9am–1 hr before sunset kind of “Work Olympics”, that
Tue–Sun. was planned for 1942, but
Bronze entrance gates to the Fosse never took place because of
Ardeatine by Mirko Basaldella One of the most famous the war. The architecture was
landmarks on the Via intended to glorify Fascism and
Fosse Ardeatine w Appia Antica is the huge the style of the public buildings
drum-shaped tomb built for is very overblown and rhetori-
Via Ardeatina 174. Tel 06-513 6742. the noblewoman Cecilia cal. The eerie shape of the
@ 218, 716. Open daily. Metella. Her father and Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro
Closed public hols. husband were rich patricians (The Palace of the Civilization
and successful generals of of Work) is an unmistakable
On the evening of 24 March late Republican Rome, but landmark for people arriving
1944, Nazi forces took 335 hardly anything is known from Fiumicino airport.
prisoners to this abandoned about the woman herself.
quarry south of Rome and Byron muses over her The scheme was completed
shot them at point blank range. unknown destiny in his poem in the 1950s. In terms of town
The execution was in reprisal Childe Harold. planning, EUR has been quite
for a bomb attack that had successful and people are still
killed 32 German soldiers. In 1302 Pope Boniface VIII keen to live here. The great
The victims included various donated the tomb to his marble halls house several gov-
political prisoners, 73 Jews family, the Caetani. They ernment offices and museums.
and ten other civilians, among incorporated it in a fortified
them a priest and a 14-year- castle that blocked the Via The Museo della Civiltà
old boy. The Germans blew Appia, allowing them to con- Romana displays a vast scale
up the tunnels where the trol the traffic on the road and model of Rome at the time of
massacre had taken place, but exact high tolls. Constantine and casts of the
a local peasant had witnessed reliefs on Trajan’s Column.
the scene and later helped The marble facing of the These, and the interesting
find the corpses. The site is tomb was pillaged by another planetarium, make the muse-
pope, Sixtus V, at the end of um well worth a visit.
the 16th century.
To the south is a lake and
Fragments of marble relief on the park, and the huge domed
Tomb of Cecilia Metella Palazzo dello Sport built for
the 1960 Olympics.

FURTHER AFIELD 267

San Paolo fuori
le Mura t

Via Ostiense 186. Tel 06-541 0341. 19th-century mosaic on façade of San Paolo fuori le Mura

@ 23, 128, 170, 670, 707, 761, with its pairs of colourful station and its two huge
inlaid columns supporting the generators still occupy the
769. Q San Paolo. arcade, was spared completely central machine room
by the fire. Completed around creating quite an intriguing
Open 7am–7pm daily (summer), 1214, it is considered one of contrast to the exhibitions.
the most beautiful in Rome. On display are Roman statues
7am–6.30pm daily (winter). Cloister and artifacts belonging to the
Centrale Capitoline Museums (see
closed 1–3pm daily. 5 7 = Montemartini y pp70–73). Many of the statues
were discovered during
Today’s church is a faithful Via Ostiense 106. Tel 06-574 8042. excavations in the late 19th
reconstruction of the great @ 769, 23. Open 9am–7pm Tue– and early 20th centuries but
4th-century basilica destroyed Sun (last adm: 6pm). Closed public were kept in storage until
by fire on 15 July 1823. Few hols. Adm charge. = 7 - 8 fairly recently.
fragments of the original
church survived. The trium- An enormous old industrial-
phal arch over the nave is site has been restored to
decorated on one side with house the ACEA art centre.
restored 5th-century mosaics. Originally, the building was
On the other side are mosaics used as Rome’s first power
by Pietro Cavallini, originally
on the façade. The splendid
Venetian apse mosaics (1220)
depict the figures of Christ
with St Peter, St Andrew, St
Paul and St Luke.

The fine marble canopy
over the high altar is signed
by the sculptor Arnolfo di
Cambio (1285) “together with
his partner Pietro”, who may
have been Pietro Cavallini.
Below the altar is the
confessio, the tomb of St
Paul. To the right is an
impressive Paschal candle-
stick by Nicolò di Angelo and
Pietro Vassalletto.

The cloister of San Paolo,

Statue in Centrale Montemartini, former power plant turned art centre Casino del Bel Respiro, summer
residence in Villa Doria Pamphilj

Villa Doria
Pamphilj u

Via di San Pancrazio. @ 31, 44,
75, 710, 870. Park open dawn–
dusk daily.

One of Rome’s largest public
parks, the Villa Doria Pam-
philj was laid out in the mid-
17th century for Prince
Camillo Pamphilj. His uncle,
Pope Innocent X, paid for the
magnificent summer resi-
dence, the Casino del Bel
Respiro, and the fountains
and summerhouses, some of
which still survive.

268 ROME AREA BY AREA

Day Trips around Rome

Tivoli, a favourite place to escape the heat of the Roman summer and the legendary she-wolf.
The Rometta is at one end of
the Viale delle Cento Fontane,
100 fountains in the shapes of
grotesques, obelisks, ships and
the eagles of the d’Este coat
of arms. Other fountains are
now being restored to their
former glory. The Fontana
dell’Organo is a water-organ,
in which the force of the
water pumps air through the
pipes. The garden’s lowest
level has flower beds and
fountains as well as some
splendid views out over the
plain below.

Tivoli i After suffering heavy bomb-
damage in 1944, Tivoli’s main
Town is 31 km (20 miles) northeast buildings and churches were
of Rome. V from Tiburtina. speedily restored. The town’s
@ COTRAL from Ponte Mammolo cobbled streets are still lined
with medieval houses. The
(on Metro line B). Duomo (cathedral) houses a
beautiful 13th-century life-size
Tivoli has been a popular wooden group representing
the Deposition from the Cross.
summer resort since the
Villa d’Este o
days of the Roman Republic.
Piazza Trento 1, Tivoli. Tel 0774-31
Among the famous men who 2070. @ COTRAL from Ponte

owned villas here were the Mammolo (on Metro line B). Open

poets Catullus and Horace, 8.30am–1 hr before sunset Tue–Sun.

Caesar’s assassins Brutus and Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. Adm
charge. -
Cassius, and the Emperors
The villa occupies the site of
Trajan and Hadrian. Tivoli’s an old Benedictine convent.
In the 16th century the estate
main attractions were its clean was developed by Cardinal
Ippolito d’Este, son of Lucrezia
air and beautiful situation on Borgia. A palace was designed
by Pirro Ligorio to make the
the slopes of the most of its hilltop situation,
but the villa’s fame rests more
Tiburtini hills, its on the terraced gardens and
fountains laid out by Ligorio
healthy sulphur and Giacomo della Porta.

springs and the The gardens have suffered
neglect in the past, but the
waterfalls of grottoes and fountains still
give a vivid impression of
the Aniene – the great luxury which the
princes of the church
the Emperor enjoyed. From the great Terrace of 100 Fountains in the
loggia of the palace you gardens of Villa d’Este
Augustus said descend through the privet-
lined paths to the Grotto of Villa Gregoriana p
these had Diana and Bernini’s Fontana
del Bicchierone. Below to Largo Sant’Angelo, Tivoli. V @
cured him of the right is the Rometta (little Tivoli, then short walk. Tel 06-3996
Rome), a model of Tiber 7701. Open 10am–6.30pm Tue–Sun
insomnia. Island with allegorical figures (to 2.30pm Mar, 16 Oct–30 Nov).
Closed Dec–Feb. 8 9
The Romans’
The main attractions of this
luxurious steeply sloping park are the
waterfalls and grottoes created
lifestyle was by the River Aniene. The park
is named after Pope Gregory
revived in XVI, who in the 1830s ordered
the building of a tunnel to
Detail of Fontana Renaissance ward against flooding. When
the tunnel was completed, it
dell’Organo at times by the created a new waterfall, called
the Grande Cascata, which
Villa d’Este owners of the plunges 160 m (525 ft) into
the valley behind the town.
Villa d’Este,

the town’s most famous sight.

In the Middle Ages Tivoli

suffered frequent invasions as

its position made it an ideal

base for an advance on

Rome. In 1461 Pope Pius II

built a fortress here, the Rocca

Pia, declaring: “It is easier to

regain Rome while possessing

Tivoli, than to regain Tivoli

while possessing Rome.”

FURTHER AFIELD 269

certainty. The where Plato lectured to his
students. He also had a replica
grounds of the made of the Stoà Poikile, a
beautiful painted colonnade
villa make a very in Athens, from which the
Stoic philosophers took their
picturesque site name. This copy enclosed a
great piazza with a central
for a picnic, with pool. The so-called Hall of
the Philosophers close to the
scattered fragments Poikile was probably a library.

of columns lying The most ambitious of
Hadrian’s replicas was the
among olive trees Canopus, a sanctuary of the
god Serapis near Alexandria.
and cypresses. For this a canal 119 metres
(130 yards) long was dug and
For an idea of Egyptian statues were imported
to decorate the temple and its
how the whole grounds. This impressive
piece of engineering has been
complex would restored and the banks of the
canal are lined with caryatids.
have looked in its
Another picturesque spot in
heyday, study the the grounds is the Vale of
Tempe, the legendary haunt
scale model in the of the goddess Diana with a
stream representing the river
building beside
Pair of Ionic columns in the vaulted
the car park. The baths of Hadrian’s Villa

most important Peneios. Below ground the
emperor even built a fanciful
buildings are recreation of the underworld,
Hades, reached through
signposted and underground tunnels, of which
there were many linking the
several have been various parts of the villa.

partially restored Plundered by barbarians who
camped here in the 6th and
or reconstructed. 8th centuries, the villa fell into
disrepair. Its marble was burnt
One of the most to make lime for cement and
Renaissance antiquarians
impressive is the contributed even further to its
destruction. Statues unearthed
so-called Maritime in the grounds are on show in
museums around Europe. The
Theatre. This is a Vatican’s Egyptian Collection
(see p238) has many fine works
round pool with that were found here.

an island in the

middle, surrounded

by columns. The

island, reached by

means of a swing

bridge, was

probably Hadrian’s

private studio,

The Canopus, extensively restored, with replicas of where he withdrew

its original caryatids lining the bank of the canal from the cares of

Hadrian’s Villa a the Empire to
indulge in his two favourite

pastimes, painting and

Villa Adriana, Via Tiburtina. Site is architecture. There were also

6 km (4 miles) southwest of Tivoli. theatres, Greek and Latin

Tel 0774-53 02 03. V Tivoli, then libraries, two bathhouses,

local bus No. 4. @ COTRAL from extensive housing for guests

Ponte Mammolo (on Metro line B). and the palace staff, and

Open 9am–1 hr before sunset daily formal gardens with

(last adm 1½ hours before). Closed fountains, statues and pools.

1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. Adm charge. Hadrian also loved Greek

-=8 philosophy. One part of the

gardens is thought to have

Built as a private summer been Hadrian’s reproduction

retreat between AD 118 and of the Grove of Academe,

134, Hadrian’s Villa was a vast

open-air museum of the finest

architecture of the Roman

world. The grounds of the

Imperial palace covered an

area of 120 hectares (300 acres)

and were filled with full-scale

reproductions of the emperor’s

favourite buildings from

Greece and Egypt. Although

excavations on this site began

in the 16th century, many of

the ruins lying scattered in the

surrounding fields have yet Fragment of marble mosaic

to be identified with any pavement in the Imperial palace

270 ROME AREA BY AREA

Ostia Antica s

Viale dei Romagnoli 717. Site is 25
km (16 miles) southwest of Rome.
Tel 06-5635 8099. Q Piramide, then
train from Porta San Paolo station.
Excavations and museum open
8.30am–6.30pm Tue–Sun (to 4.30pm
Nov–Feb, to 5.30pm Mar). Closed
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. Adm charge.
= - 7 www.ostiantica.info

In Republican times Ostia

was Rome’s main commercial

port and a military base

defending the coastline and

the mouth of the Tiber. The

port continued to flourish

under the Empire, despite

the development of Portus,

a new port slightly to the

northwest, in the 2nd century

AD. Ostia’s decline began in

the 4th century, when a

reduction in trade was com-

bined with the gradual silting Ruins of shops, offices and houses near Ostia’s theatre

up of the harbour. Then

malaria became endemic in pursued their business under Corporazioni, the square

the area and the city, whose the porticoes lining the street. behind the theatre. The

population may have been The floorplans of the public corporations were the guilds

nearly 100,000 at its peak, buildings along the road are of the various trades involved

was totally abandoned. very clear. Many were bath- in fitting out and

Buried for centuries by houses, such as the Baths of supplying ships:

sand, the city is remarkably the Cisiarii (carters) and the tanners and rope-

well preserved. The site is grander Baths of Neptune, makers, ship-

less spectacular than Pompeii named after their fine black- builders and

or Herculaneum because and-white floor mosaics. timber merchants,

Ostia died a gradual death, Beside the restored theatre, ships’ chandlers

but it gives a more complete three large masks, original- and corn weighers.

picture of life under the ly part of the decoration of There were some

Roman Empire. People of all the stage, have been mount- 60 or 70 offices

social classes and from all ed on large blocks of tufa. around the square.

over the Mediterranean lived Beneath the great brick Mosaics showing

and worked here. arches that supported the scenes of everyday

Visitors can understand semicircular tiers of seats life in the port and

the layout of Ostia’s streets were taverns and shops. the names and

almost at a glance. The main Classical plays are put on Mask decorating symbols of the

road through the town, the here in the summer. the theatre corporations can

Decumanus Maximus, would The Tiber’s course has still be seen.

have been filled with hurrying changed considerably since There were also offices used

slaves and citizens, avoiding Ostia was the port of Rome. It by ship-owners and their

the jostling carriages and once flowed past just to the agents from places as far

carts, while tradesmen north of Piazzale delle apart as Tunisia and the south

of France, Sardinia and Egypt.

In one office, belonging to

a merchant from the town

of Sabratha in North Africa,

there is a delightful mosaic

of an elephant.

The main cargo coming into

Rome was grain from Africa.

Much of this was distributed

free to prevent social unrest.

Although only men received

this annona or corn dole,

at times over 300,000 were

eligible. In the centre of the

Mural from Ostia of merchant ship being loaded with grain square was a temple, probably

FURTHER AFIELD 271

dedicated to Ceres, goddess Floor mosaic of Nereid and sea monster in the House of the Dioscuri
of the harvest. Among the
buildings excavated are many apartments in blocks three sausages and hot wine
large warehouses in which or four storeys high sweetened with honey.
grain was stored before it was known as insulae.
shipped on to Rome. These varied For the wealthy there
considerably were detached houses
The Decumanus leads to in their com- (domus) such as the House
the Forum and the city’s fort and of the Dioscuri, which has
principal temple, erected by decoration. fine mosaics, and the House
Hadrian in the 2nd century AD The House of Cupid and Psyche, named
and dedicated to Jove, Juno of Diana after a statue there. This is
and Minerva. In this rather was one of now in the site’s Museo
romantic, lonely spot, it is hard the smarter Ostiense, near the Forum,
to imagine the Forum as a ones, with along with other sculptures
bustling centre, where justice a balcony and reliefs found in Ostia.
was dispensed and officials around the
second floor, Among the houses and shops
Detail of floor mosaic in the a private bath- there are other fascinating
Piazzale delle Corporazioni house and a buildings including a laundry
central courtyard and the firemen’s barracks.
met to discuss the city’s The religions practised in
affairs. In the 18th century it with a cistern where tenants Ostia reflect the cosmopolitan
was used as a sheepfold. came to collect their water. nature of the port. There are
Around the ground floor of also no fewer than 18 temples
Away from the main street the block were shops, taverns dedicated to the Persian god
are the buildings where Ostia’s and bars selling snacks and Mithras, as well as a Jewish
inhabitants lived. The great drinks. In the bar at the synagogue dating from the 1st
majority were housed in rented House of Diana you can see century AD and a Christian
the marble counter used by basilica. A plaque records the
customers buying their death of St Augustine’s mother
in a hotel here in AD 387.

ALSO WORTH SEEING Nemi @ from Anagnina, on Metro Subiaco @ from Ponte Mammolo,
on Metro line B (bus c.120 min).
Anagni V from Termini (c.60 min), line A (bus c.60 min). Birthplace of St Benedict. Two
monasteries to visit.
then local bus (infrequent) or long walk. Charming village at volcanic
Picturesque hill-town with papal lake in the Castelli Romani. Tarquinia V from Termini or
palace and famous cathedral. Famous for its wine and Ostiense (c.180 min). @ from
Lepanto, on Metro line A. Change
Bracciano V from Termini or strawberries. at Civitavecchia (c.150 min).
Outstanding collection of
Tiburtina (c.90 min). @ from Lepanto, Palestrina @ from Anagnina, on Etruscan objects and frescoes
from Tarquinia’s necropolis.
on Metro line A (bus c.90 min). Metro line A (bus c.70 min).
Viterbo V from Ostiense
Volcanic lake with villages and Impressive Roman sanctuary to (c.100 min) or train from Roma
Nord, Piazzale Flaminio, on Metro
wooded hills. Nice for walks goddess Fortuna. Museum and line A (c.120 min). @ from Saxa
Rubra reached by the train above
or a visit to Orsini Castle. the Mosaic of the Nile. (bus c.90 min).
Medieval quarter, papal palace
Swimming in summer. Pompeii V to Naples, then change and archaeological museum
within 13th-century walls.
Cerveteri V from Termini, to local train (c.170 min).

Tiburtina or Ostiense to Cerveteri- @ Special bus tours from tourist

Ladispoli, then local bus (c.70 min). agents.

@ from Lepanto, on Metro Excavations of the wealthy and

line A (bus c.80 min). bustling Roman city where the

One of the greatest Etruscan busy daily life was put to a

cities. Necropolis with com- sudden end by the eruption

plete streets and houses. of Vesuvius in AD 79.



273

NINE GUIDED WALKS

Rome is an excellent city for three walks each follow a par-
walking. The distances ticular theme. You can savour
between major sights in the glory of ancient Rome

the historic centre are easily through the triumphal arches

covered on foot and many of the emperors, tour early

streets are pedestrianized. Christian churches with well-

When you get tired, there are preserved mosaics and explore

plenty of pavement cafés in the great contribution of Bernini

wonderful settings, such as to the appearance of the city.

Piazza Navona and Campo de’ The sixth walk is outside

Fiori. If you are interested in the centre along the best-

archaeology, then a walk known of all Roman roads,

across the Forum (see pp76– the Via Appia Antica, parts of

87) and over the Palatine (see which are still intact after
moreBernini angel on
pp96–101) takes you away than 2,000 years of use.
Ponte Sant’Angelo
from the roaring traffic of The seventh walk explores

modern Rome to a different world of some macabre points of interest,

scattered ruins and shady pine trees. including a park said to be haunted by

The first of the nine suggested the emperor Nero. The next couples

walks takes in picturesque quarters Trastevere’s atmospheric backstreets

on either side of the Tiber. The sec- with the romantic viewpoints of the

ond walk, along the perfectly straight Janiculum. Lastly, there is a tour of

Via Giulia, gives a vivid impression churches and ancient ruins on and

of the Renaissance city. The next around the tranquil, leafy Aventine.

CHOOSING A WALK Bernini The Nine Walks
(pp282–3) The routes of eight of the
Tombs, Legends walks are marked on the
and Artists
(pp286–7) larger map, which
Via Giulia also shows the main
(pp276–7) sightseeing areas of
Rome. The smaller
Trastevere and inset map shows the
Janiculum
(pp288–9) location of the Via
Appia walk in
relation to the
central area.

Tiber Mosaics
(pp274–5) (pp280–81)

Triumphal Via Appia
Arches Antica
(pp278–9) (pp284–85)

KEY
Walk routes
City Wall

0 kilometres 1 Aventine
(pp290–91)

0 miles 0.5

Pedestrians strolling across Ponte Sant’Angelo

274 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Walk by the River Tiber

Rome owes its very existence to the Tiber; the city leads to the ruined Portico of
grew up around an easy fording point where a market Octavia w (see p152) in the
place developed. The river could also be a hazard; Jewish Ghetto (see p152). The
shallow and torrent-like, it flooded the city every winter Roman portico, once Rome’s
up to 1870, when work began on the massive fish market, houses the church
Lungotevere embankments that run of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria.
along both sides of the river. These Find the marble plaque on
provide many fine views from points the façade: fish longer than
along their avenues of plane trees. The this slab were given to the
walk also explores the neighbourhoods city’s conservatori (governors).
along the riverside, in particular the Turn into the Ghetto: two
Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere, which column stumps belonging to
have preserved much of their character the Portico stand in front of a
from earlier periods in the patched-up doorway made of
colourful history of Rome. fragments of Roman sculpture.
The cramped buildings and
streets around Via del Portico

From the old port of Rome to 7*" %&* (*6##0/"3*
4JT1UPPOUF
Via dei Funari Santa Maria in Cosmedin 1 7*" %&* 1&55*/"3*
Starting from the church of
Santa Maria in Cosmedin 1 of Marcellus 8 (see 7*" "3&/6-"
(see p202), cross the piazza p151), and look for the : -6/(5F 05&7&3& %&*
to the Temples of the Forum three Corinthian - 05 WFSF "/
Boarium 2 (see p203). This columns of the Temple 8 - 7"--"5*
was the cattle market that of Apollo beside it. 6 &7&3& 4 1POUF
stood near the city’s river port. Turn into Piazza /
The river here has preserved Campitelli and walk ( (BSJCBMEJ
two less obvious structures up to Santa Maria ;*0
from ancient Rome: the mouth in Campitelli 9 7*" % .030 -5 %
of the Cloaca Maxima 3, the (see p151). The 5
city’s great sewer, and one church honours 1*";;"
arch of a ruined bridge, known a miraculous
as the Ponte Rotto 4. In Via image of the Virgin 40//*/0
Petroselli stands the rather credited with halting
extraordinary medieval Casa the plague in 1656. G 7*" %&--" -6/("3&55" D
dei Crescenzi 5 (see p203), The 16th-century
decorated with fragments of piazza was the home
Roman temples. Passing the of Flaminio Ponzio,
modern Anagrafe (public its architect, who
records office) 6, built on lived at No. 6. Take
the site of the old Roman Via dei Delfini to
port, you come to San Nicola Piazza Margana
in Carcere 7 (see p151). where you should
look up at the 14th-
You are now in the Foro century tower of the
Olitorio, Rome’s ancient Margani family 0.
vegetable market. To the east Retrace your steps,
stand the ruins of a Roman then go up Via dei
portico and the medieval Funari (Street of the
house of the Pierleoni family. Ropemakers) to the
Head for the massive Theatre 16th-century façade
of Santa Caterina
dei Funari q.

Arch of the Ponte Rotto 4 The Ghetto Main altar of Santa Maria in Campitelli 9
From Piazza Lov-
atelli take Via
Sant’Angelo in
Pescheria, which

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 275

d’Ottavia are typical of old Santa Maria in Trastevere,

Rome: see the Casa di don’t miss the old-fashioned

Lorenzo Manilio e (see chemist’s shop at No. 7. The
p152), and turn down Via piazza itself, in front of the
del Progresso, past Palazzo magnificent church of Santa
Cenci r (see p152), Maria in Trastevere s (see
towards the river. On pp212–13), has a cheerful

Lungotevere walk past the atmosphere, and the fountain

Synagogue t (see p152) to steps are a favourite meeting
the small church of San place. Go back a little way to

Gregorio y. Here stood the Via del Moro. This leads to
Ghetto’s gates, which were Piazza Trilussa, dominated by

locked at sundown. Classical relief of Medusa above the the fountain of the Acqua
doorway of Palazzo Cenci r Paola d, where you emerge
Across the river to on to the bank of the river
Trastevere much of the spirit of old again. Note the lifelike statue,
Crossing to Tiber Island (see Trastevere. Walk up to the near the fountain, of Roman

p153) by Ponte Fabricio, with start of Viale di Trastevere at poet Trilussa, who wrote in

its two ancient Piazza Belli. After crossing the local dialect. From Ponte

the road Sisto f (see p210), look back
to Tiber Island and, beyond
*/* it, to the medieval bell tower
7*" % %&-' 1*";;" of Santa Maria in Cosmedin,
."3("/" set against the pine trees on
5 & "5 3 0
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1 ;" the summit of the Palatine.

7*" % 130(3&440 9 $".1*5&
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TIPS FOR WALKERS

stone heads on the parapet, look back at the medieval Starting point: Piazza della
you can enjoy a good view of tower of the Anguillara p Bocca della Verità.
the river in both directions. and the statue honouring the Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
On the island itself, you poet Gioacchino Belli a (see Getting there: The 23, 44, 81,
should not miss the Pierleoni p209). As you go down Via 160, 280, 628, 715 and 716
Tower u or the church of della Lungaretta to Piazza buses stop near Santa Maria in
San Bartolomeo all’Isola i. Cosmedin.
Best time for walk: This walk can
Trastevere be very romantic in the evening
As you cross into Trastevere, but is enjoyable at any time.
you can see the medieval Stopping-off points: Piazza
house of the powerful Mattei Campitelli and Piazza Margana
family o, with its fragments have elegant Roman restaurants,
of ancient sculpture. Beyond and Via del Portico d’Ottavia has
it, Piazza in Piscinula and the restaurants and a bakery. Tiber
surrounding streets retain Island has a bar and the famous
Sora Lella restaurant (see p320).
KEY In Viale Trastevere there are bars
and pizzerias. Piazza Santa Maria
Walk route in Trastevere has lively bars and
restaurants with outdoor tables.
J Good viewing point
Piazza in Piscinula, old Trastevere

276 ROME AREA BY AREA

A One-Hour Walk along Via Giulia

Laid out by Bramante for Pope Julius II in the early Baroque capital on the façade of
16th century, Via Giulia was one of the first Sant’Eligio degli Orefici 7
Renaissance streets to slice through Rome’s
jumble of medieval alleys. The original plan
included new law courts in a central piazza, but
this project was abandoned for lack of cash. The
street now is dominated by antiques shops and fur-
niture restorers. On summer evenings, hundreds of
oil lamps light the street while cloisters and courtyards
provide romantic settings for a special season of concerts.

From Lungotevere Rome and Siena – there 1POUF
to Largo della Moretta is a legend that the city of 7*JUUPSJP
Starting from Lungotevere dei Siena was founded by &NBOVFMF **
Tebaldi 1 at the eastern end the less fortunate of
of Via Giulia, you will see the twins. After passing the 1POUF 1S "NFEFP
ahead of you an archway 2 short street that leads down
spanning the road. This was to Sant’Eligio degli Orefici - D $0
the start of Michelangelo’s 7 (see p148) and the façade 340
unrealized project linking Pal- of Palazzo Ricci 8 (see 6 =
azzo Farnese and its gardens p149), you come to an I
(see p147) with the Villa Far- area of half-demolished / C 7*" % &* #"7/$)* *"7& $$()** 6 - * "
nesina (see pp220–21) on the buildings around the ruined
other side of the river. church of San Filippo Neri (
9, called Vicolo della 7
Just before you reach the Moretta. If you look to the
archway, you will see to your left down to the river, you 0 HM
left the curious Fontana del *"
Mascherone 3, in which an Fontana del Mascherone 3
ancient grotesque mask and 5
granite basin were combined can see Ponte Mazzini and the %&
to create a Baroque fountain. huge prison of Regina Coeli
on the other side of the Tiber. - F
Beyond the Farnese arch- At this point you may like to
way on the left is the lively make a small detour to the - %&-
Baroque façade of the church right to the beginning of Via
of Santa Maria dell’Orazione e del Pellegrino, where there is 5
Morte 4 (see p147). A bit fur- an inscription 0, defining the
ther along on the same side pomerium, or boundary, of "
of the road stands Palazzo the city in the time of the
Falconieri 5, enlarged by Emperor Claudius. - FWFSF
Borromini in 1650. Note its
two stone falcons glowering From Largo della Moretta to - 9
at each other across the width the Sofas of Via Giulia 6 K
of the façade. On the other Further on, facing the narrow E
side of the road you pass the Vicolo del Malpasso are the 6/ (/"(30"5 4"/("
yellowish façade of Santa imposing prisons, the Carceri
Caterina da Siena 6, church &
of the Sienese colony in Rome,
which has pretty 18th-century 7
reliefs. The figures of Romu-
lus and Remus symbolize -
&
Relief of Romulus and Remus on
Santa Caterina da Siena 6 -
3

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Nuove q, built by Pope
Innocent X Pamphilj in 1655.
When first opened, they were
a model of humane treatment
of prisoners, but were
replaced by the Regina Coeli
prison across the river at the
end of the 19th century. The
buildings now house offices
of the Ministry of Justice and
a small Museum of Crime.

At the corner of Via del
Gonfalone, a small side street
running down to the river,

KEY
Walk route

J Good viewing point

0 metres 250

0 yards 250

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 277

the traditional

distribution of bread

to the poor that took

place on the saint’s

feast day.

On the corner Plaque honouring Antonio da

there are more tra- Sangallo on Palazzo Sacchetti t
vertine blocks

belonging to the that, like many houses of the

foundations of Julius period, it once belonged to

II’s projected law Raphael. Palazzo Clarelli o
courts, known was built by Antonio da San-

because of their curi- gallo the Younger as his own

ous shape as the house. The inscription above

“Sofas of Via Giulia”. the doorway bears the name

of Duke Cosimo II de’ Medici,

The Florentine whose family later bought the

Quarter palazzo.

Your next stop should This whole area used to be

be the imposing inhabited by a flourishing

Palazzo Sacchetti at Florentine colony, which had

No. 66 t. Originally its own water-mills built on
this was the house of pontoons along the Tiber.

Antonio da Sangallo Their national church is San

the Younger, the Giovanni dei Fiorentini p
(see p153), the final great
7*550 Farnese archway across Via Giulia, architect of Palazzo landmark at the end of Via
Giulia. Many Florentine artists
built to a design by Michelangelo 2 Farnese, but it was and architects had a hand in
its design, including Sangallo
3*0 greatly enlarged by and Jacopo Sansovino.
later owners. The porticoed
7*" &."/6&- & ** courtyard houses a 15th-
century Madonna and a
%&- 1&--&(3*/0 striking Roman relief of

the 3rd century AD.
Just opposite Palazzo

Sacchetti, note the

1*";;" beautiful late
#"-% $".10 Renaissance portal of
% & 7*" (*6-*" 1*";;" %&h '*03* Palazzo Donarelli y.
'"3/&4& The 16th-century
* 5 house at No. 93 is
richly decorated with
& stuccoes and coats of

*


Coat of arms of Pope Paul III Farnese on the

%&--" '"3/&45*/F"W F S F 7*" %&* 1&55*/"3* arms u. No. 85 is façade of Via Giulia No. 93 u

another typical Renais-

sance palazzo with a TIPS FOR WALKERS
heavily rusticated ground

1PO4UJTFUP - floor i. There is a tradition Starting point: Lungotevere dei

Tebaldi, by Ponte Sisto.

Length: 1 km (1,100 yds).

Getting there: The 116 goes to

you can see Detail on the side of the door of and along Via Giulia, or you can
part of the foundations of Santa Maria del Suffragio e take 46, 62 or 64 to Corso Vitto-
Julius II’s planned law courts. rio Emanuele II, then walk down
Just down the street stands Via dei Pettinari, or take a 23 or
the small Oratorio di Santa 280 along Lungotevere.
Lucia del Gonfalone w, which Best time for walk: On summer
is often used for concerts. evenings oil lamps light the street.
At Christmas, there are cribs on
The next interesting façade display in many shop windows.
is Carlo Rainaldi’s 17th-centu- Stopping-off points: There
ry Santa Maria del Suffragio e are bars in Via Giulia, at Nos. 18
on the left. On the same side and 84. Campo de’ Fiori has
is San Biagio degli Armeni r, better bars, with outdoor tables,
the Armenian church in Rome. and a wide choice of places to
It is often referred to by local eat. These include a fried fish
people as San Biagio della restaurant in Piazza Santa
Pagnotta (of the loaf of bread). Barbara dei Librai (closed Sun).
The nickname originates from

278 ROME AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Tour of Rome’s Triumphal Arches

Rome’s greatest gift to architecture was the arch, and
the Roman people’s highest tribute to its victorious
generals was the triumphal arch. In Imperial times,
arches were erected to honour an emperor’s campaign
victories almost as a matter of course, promoting his
personal cult and ensuring his subsequent deification.
Spectacular processions passed through these arches.
Conquering generals, cheered by rapturous crowds,
rode in their chariots to the Capitol, accompanied by
their legions bearing spoils from their campaigns.

Arches of the Forum Emperor Septimius Severus 1
This walk through the Forum
and around the base of the and his sons Geta and
Palatine takes in Rome’s three
great surviving triumphal Caracalla (see p83) in the
arches and two arches of more
Forum. Erected in AD 203, Part of the Via Sacra, once spanned
Relief of barbarian captives on the
Arch of Septimius Severus 1 it celebrates a successful by the Arch of Augustus 3

humble design that were used campaign in the Middle
simply as places of business.
It starts from the Arch of East. Eight years later,

TIPS FOR WALKERS when Caracalla had his 7*" %&- 5& "5 30 %* ."3$ --0& -"3(0-
brother killed, all mention * 0/& 30.0-0
Starting point: The Roman of Geta was removed & 3&.0
Forum, entrance Largo Romolo e 4 5&0%030
Remo, on Via dei Fori Imperiali. from the inscription.

Length: 2.5 km (1.5 miles). Look up at the
Getting there: The nearest
Metro station is Colosseo on line reliefs showing
B. Buses 84, 85, 87, 117, 175, phases of the 7*" % $0/40-";
186, 810, 850 stop in Via dei Fori campaigns. Set
Imperiali, near Forum entrance.
Best time for walk: Any time of in tiers, they
day during Forum opening hours
(see p82) is suitable. are probably
Stopping-off points: Several
bars and restaurants overlook the the sculptural
Colosseum. There is a small bar in
Via dei Cerchi and a smarter one counterparts of . 0 / 5 &
behind San Giorgio in Velabro, in
Piazza San Giovanni Decollato the paintings 1"-"5*/0
(closed Sun). For a meal, try
Alvaro al Circo Massimo (closed illustrating the 1POUF 1*";;" %
Mon) in Via di San Teodoro. general’s feats that 1BMBUJOP #0$$"
were borne aloft %&--"
in the triumphal 7&3*5®

K

procession. On the 7*" %&* $&3$)*-
right, the inhabitants
of a fortified city
surrender to the

Romans’ siege

machines. Below E

are smaller friezes materials

showing the triumphal were used in

procession itself. the new St

Heading east, make Peter’s. From

your way through the here, proceed uphill

Forum to the ruins of towards the elegant

the Temple of Julius Arch of Titus 5 (see

Caesar 2. The temple p87). Compared with

was built by Augustus Septimius Severus’s

in 29 BC, on the site arch, it shows an

where Caesar’s body Capital from earlier, simpler style.

was cremated after Mark Temple of Look up at the

Antony’s famous funerary Castor and beautiful lettering of
Pollux 4 the inscription before
oration. A nearby sign

marks the ruins of one of the

arches dedicated to Augustus KEY

3, spanning the Via Sacra Walk route
between the Temple of Castor

and Pollux 4 (see p84) and J Good viewing point

the Temple of Caesar. This Q Metro station
arch, erected after Augustus

had defeated Mark Antony 0 metres 250
and Cleopatra, was finally

demolished in 1545, and its 0 yards 250

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 279

excavated in the on the right, you come to
18th and 19th cen- Piazza di Porta Capena 0,
turies. Many of the named after the gate that
carts that passed stood here to mark the
through the arch beginning of the Via Appia
would have been (see p284). After rounding the
carrying building back of the Palatine, follow
materials quarried Via dei Cerchi, which runs
from the Forum’s alongside the grassy area that
many ruined preserves, in an oval outline,
monuments. all that remains of the Circus
Maximus q (see p205).
Arch of
Arches of the Forum
Constantine Boarium
When you reach the church
Leave the Forum of Sant’Anastasia w, turn right
up Via di San Teodoro, then
by heading down first left down Via del Velabro.
Straddling the street is the
the hill towards four-sided Arch of Janus e
(see p202), erected in the 3rd
the Colosseum 6 century AD. This is not a
triumphal arch but a covered
(see pp92–5) and area where merchants could
take shelter from the sun or
the nearby Arch rain when discussing business.
Like the Arch of Titus, it
of Constantine 7 became part of a fortress built
by the Frangipane family
(see p91). This arch, during the Middle Ages.

7*" Arch of Titus in a 19th-century watercolour by the hastily built to Tucked away beside the
nearby church of San Giorgio
English artist Thomas Hartley Cromek 5 commemorate the in Velabro r (see p202) is
%&* emperor’s victory what looks like a large
'03* over his rival Maxentius in rectangular doorway. This is
'030 *.1&3*"-* AD 312, is a patchwork of the Arco degli Argentari, or
$PMPTTFP reliefs from different periods. Moneychangers’ Arch t. Look
;;" % Stand on the Via di San up at the inscription, which
1*" says that it was erected by
0 local silversmiths in honour of
Gregorio side and compare Septimius Severus and his
&- family in AD 204. As in the
$ emperor’s triumphal arch, the
0 name of Geta has been
- 0 4 4& obliterated by his brother and
murderer, Caracalla. Geta’s
7*" %* 4"/ (3&(03*0 figure has also been removed
from among the portraits on
the panels inside the arch.
.0/5& $&-*0 Triumph in Imperial Rome
could be very short-lived.

Four-sided Arch of Janus in the
1*";;" you Arches of Domitian’s extension to Forum Boarium e
%* 1035" examine
$"1&/" the Claudian Aqueduct 9

the inner bas-reliefs. These the earlier panels at the
top (AD 180–193) with the
show Roman legionaries hectic battle scenes just
above the smaller arches,
carrying the spoils looted from sculpted in AD 315. In the
curious dwarf-like soldiers,
the conquest of Jerusalem, you can see the transition
from Classicism to a cruder
heralds holding plaques with medieval style of sculpture.

the names of vanquished Now take Via di San
Gregorio, which runs the
peoples and cities, and Titus length of the valley between
the Palatine and Celian hills.
riding in triumph in his chariot. This was the ancient route
taken by most triumphal
The medieval Frangipane processions. Passing the
entrance to the Palatine 8
family turned the Colosseum and the well-preserved arches
of the Claudian Aqueduct 9
into a vast impregnable

stronghold and incorporated

the Arch of Titus into their

fortifications. Notice the

wheelmarks scratched on the

inside walls of the arch by

generations of carts; they

indicate the steady rise in the

level of the Forum floor

before it was eventually

280 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Three-Hour Tour of Rome’s Best Mosaics

In imitation of the audience chambers

of Imperial palaces, Rome’s early

Christian churches were decorated

with colourful mosaics. These were

pieced together from cubes of marble,

coloured stone and fragments of glass. To

create a golden background, gold leaf was

placed between pieces of glass. These were

then heated so that they fused. The glorious

colours and subjects portrayed gave the faithful Apse

a glimpse of the heavenly court of the King of mosaic in the Chapel

Kings. This walk concentrates on a few of the of Santa Rufina 3

churches decorated in this wonderful medium. MH

San Giovanni (right). Leave by the exit on 7*" 63#"/" F
Start from Piazza di Porta San
Giovanni, where you can visit the right near the splendid
the heavily restored mosaic of
the Triclinio Leoniano 16th-century organ and head 7*" $"7063
(see p179). Originally in the
banqueting hall of Pope Leo for the octagonal Baptistry
III (795–816) 1, it shows
Christ among the Apostles. of San Giovanni 3, where 9
On the left are Pope Sylvester
and the Emperor Constantine, the Chapel of Santa Rufina
on the right, Pope Leo and
Charlemagne just before he has a beautiful apse mosaic, 7*" ( -"/;" 1*";;" 4"/
dating from the 5th century. $BWPVS ."35*/0
Obelisk and side façade of San In the neighbouring Chapel of "* .0/5*
Giovanni in Laterano 2
San Venanzio, there are gold- K
was crowned Emperor of the
Romans in AD 800. Inside the en 7th-century mosaics, show- 7
basilica of San Giovanni in
Laterano 2 (see pp182–3), the ing the strong influence of the *
13th-century apse mosaic
shows Christ as he appeared "
miraculously during the %
consecration of the church. In
the panels by the windows, 7*"-& * %
look for the small figures of
two Franciscan friars; these are Eastern Church at 011*0 5 &
the artists Jacopo Torriti (left) this time. 5
and Jacopo de Camerino
Santo Stefano Rotondo 3 3.
0
E "

*

" &

/

%&- .0/5& -

to San Clemente

Leave the piazza by the $PMPTTFP
narrow road that leads to ";;" %
the round church of Santo
Stefano Rotondo 4 (see 7*"-& %0.64 "63&"

p185). One of its chapels 1* &-
0$
contains a 7th-century 0-044&
Byzantine mosaic 7*" $&-*.0/5"/
honouring two martyrs
buried here. Further on, in - 7 * " 7%*&"* 4 4
Piazza della Navicella, is 7*" %&* 26&3$&5*
the church of Santa Maria in 7*" $-"6%*"

Domnica 5 (see p193). It 7*" "//*"

houses the superb mosaics

commissioned by Pope

Paschal I, who gave new

impetus to Rome’s mosaic %* 4
production in the 9th century. 7*"

He is represented kneeling
beside the Virgin. On leaving

the church, notice the

façade of San

Tommaso in

Formis 6,

which has

a charming

mosaic of

Christ

flanked by

two freed

slaves, one

black and one

white, dating

from the 13th Ceiling mosaic, Baptistry of San Giovanni 3

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 281

acanthus leaves. 14th-century façade mosaics
San Clemente by Filippo Rusuti. Inside, the
also has a fine 5th-century mosaics in the
12th-century nave depict Old Testament
Cosmatesque stories, while the triumphal
mosaic floor. arch has scenes relating to the
birth of Christ, including one
The Colle Oppio of the Magi wearing striped
stockings. In the apse there
Passing the old is a Coronation of the Virgin
by Jacopo Torriti (1295).
entrance to the
On leaving Santa Maria, pass
church, cross Via the obelisk t in the piazza
behind the church
Labicana and and go downhill
to Via Urbana
walk up the hill and Santa
Pudenziana y
to the small Colle (see p171).
The figures
Oppio park 9. in the apse
mosaic, one
This has fine of the oldest
in Rome
views of the (AD 390), are
remarkable for
Colosseum and their naturalism.
The two women
contains the with crowns are
traditionally
1 ;" %* ruins of the identified
4 ."3*" as Santa
."((*03& Domus Aurea 0 Prassede Mosaic saint in
and Santa Santa Prassede e
7*" #055" Interior of Baptistry of San Giovanni 3 (see p175) and Pudenziana.
When you leave the church,
the Baths of you can either retrace your
steps to Santa Maria Maggiore
century. From here, head Trajan q. Across the park lie or walk down Via Urbana to
Via Cavour Metro station.
7*" .&36-"/" up the steep hill, past the San Martino ai Monti w (see

forbidding apse of Santi p170), which has a 6th-century

Quattro Coronati 7 mosaic portrait of Pope

(see p185), to the St Sylvester near the crypt, and

fascinating church of Santa Prassede e (see p171).

San Clemente 8 Here the Chapel of St Zeno

(see pp186–7). Its contains the most important

7*" .&$&/"5& 12th-century apse Byzantine mosaics in Rome,

mosaic shows reminiscent of the fabulous

the cross set in mosaics of Ravenna. Pope

a swirling Paschal I erected the chapel

pattern of as a mausoleum for his

7*" -"# *$"/" 7*" .&36-"/" TIPS FOR WALKERS

2 6 %"*5 543 0(*0$70"3/0//* " *5/* -"5&3"/0 1*";;" %* 11th-century frieze above the Starting point: Piazza di Porta
45&'"/0 3050/%0 4 (*07"//* doorway of Santa Pudenziana y San Giovanni.
*/ -"5&3"/0 Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
Getting there: The nearest
1*";;" %* Metro station is San Giovanni, on
line A, in Piazzale Appio, just
1035" outside Porta San Giovanni. The
4 (*07"//* 16, 81, 85, 87, 650 and 850
#" "3"%". buses and the 3 tram stop in
7*" %&--h ".
front of San Giovanni in
Laterano, while 117 and 218
4BO stop around the corner on Piazza
(JPWBOOJ San Giovanni in Laterano.
Best time for walk: Go in the
mother morning, in order to appreciate
the mosaics in the best light.
Theodora. Stopping-off points: The bars
and restaurants in Piazza del
The apse and Colosseo are popular with
tourists. In the Parco del Colle
triumphal arch of Oppio there is a café kiosk with
tables. There are several bars
the church itself also around Santa Maria Maggiore,
some with outdoor tables.
have fine mosaics. When

KEY you move on to Santa Maria
Maggiore r (see pp172–3),

Walk route go to the column in the centre

City Wall of the piazza in front of the
church to see the beautiful

J Good viewing point 0 metres 250

q Metro station 0 yards 250

282 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Walk around Bernini’s Rome

Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680) is the artist who
probably left the strongest personal mark on the
appearance of the city of Rome. Favourite architect,
sculptor and town planner to three successive popes,
he turned Rome into a uniquely Baroque city. This
walk traces his enormous influence on the development
and appearance of the centre of Rome. It starts from
the busy Largo di Santa Susanna just north of Termini
station, at the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.

Quirinale. The long wing of Façade of Santa Maria in Via e
the Palazzo del Quirinale 7
(see p158), nicknamed the composer Donizetti lived at
Manica Lunga (long sleeve), is No. 77 and turn into Via di
by Bernini. On the other side Santa Maria in Via, where the
of the road is the façade of church e has a fine Baroque
Sant’Andrea al Quirinale 8
(see p161), one of Bernini’s7*" %&--" 4$30'" 1*";;" %&- 1*";;" 4"/ 7*"
greatest churches. When 1"3-".&/50 4*-7&4530
you reach the Piazza del
Quirinale 9, note the
doorway of the
palazzo, attributed
to Bernini. From
the piazza, go
down the

9 7*" 10-*

1*";;" %* H K
.0/5&$*503*0
1*";;"
Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone 2 F $0-0//"

Through Piazza Barberini "72*"6 **/30 7*" % .63"55&
Santa Maria della Vittoria 1 7*" %&* 1"45*/*
(see p255) houses the Cornaro 4"7-*"7 "%5&0-3& 1*";;" % 7*" %&- $03407*" %&--h 6.*-5"
Chapel, the setting for one of 3050/%"
Bernini’s most revolutionary =
and controversial sculptures, 1*";;" M
The Ecstasy of St Teresa (1646). /"70/" 7*" % .*/&37
From here take Via Barberini $0340 %&- 3*/"4$*.&/50
to Piazza Barberini. In its 1*";;" %&--"
centre is Bernini’s dramatic I .*/&37"
Fontana del Tritone 2 (see
p254) and at one side stands stairs to Via
the more modest Fontana delle della Dataria, and into Vicolo
Api 3 (see p254). As you go Scanderbeg which leads to a
up Via delle Quattro Fontane, small piazza with the same
you catch a glimpse of name 0. Scanderbeg was the
Palazzo Barberini 4 (see nickname of the Albanian
p255) built by Bernini and prince Giorgio Castriota (1403–
several other artists for Pope 68), the “Terror of the Turks”.
Urban VIII. The gateway and His portrait is preserved on
cornices are decorated with the house where he lived.
the bees that made up part of
the Barberini family crest. The Trevi Fountain Neptune Fountain at the north end
Next make your way to the Go along the narrow Vicolo of Piazza Navona i
crossroads, decorated by Le dei Modelli q, where male
Quattro Fontane 5 (see models waited to be chosen by
p162), to enjoy the splendid artists, then turn towards the
views in all four directions. Trevi Fountain w (see p159).
Its energy is clearly inspired
Passing the diminutive San by Bernini’s work, a tribute to
Carlo alle Quattro Fontane 6 his lasting influence on Roman
(see p161), built by Bernini’s taste. Leave the piazza along
rival Borromini, take Via del Via delle Muratte where the

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 283

façade by Bernini’s follower
Carlo Rainaldi. At the top of
this street, turn left down to
Via del Corso. On the other
side of the road, you will see
the towering Column of
Marcus Aurelius r (see p113)
in Piazza Colonna. Beyond
this is Palazzo Montecitorio t,
begun in 1650 by Bernini and
now the home of the Italian
parliament (see p112).

Pantheon to Piazza Navona

Via in Aquiro leads you to the

Pantheon y (see pp110–11). Statue of the River Nile from the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Refusing Pope Urban VIII’s

request for him to redecorate Quattro Fiumi (see p120), was

by Bernini, though the figures

symbolic of the four rivers

7- *" -"3(0 %* were sculpted by other artists.
#*44 0- "5* 4"/5" 464"//" The central figure in the
7*" % $0/46-5" Fontana del Moro, however, is
#BSCFSJOJ 7*" #"3#&3*/* by Bernini himself. Bernini’s
1*";;"
#3& contemporaries were fascinated
5& . by the innovative use of
#"3#&3*/* 3FQVCCMJDB shells, rocks and other natural
&5 forms in his fountains, and his
%&- 53*50/& 2 6 4 expert handling of water to
create constant movement.
"5 5 370* " ' 0%/ 7*" 99
An extended walk
7*" %&--" 1"/&55&3*" 5" / &

- & More energetic walkers may
like to head towards the river
/ " to see the Ponte Sant’Angelo
and its Bernini angels, and
E 6*3 * then on to St Peter’s (see
pp230–33) where they can
admire Bernini’s great colon-
7*" %&--" %"5"3*" naded piazza in front of the
% &- 2
1*";;" %&-
26*3*/"-& "

7*" -6$$)&4* 7 *

7*" 99*7 ."((*0 - church, the papal tombs,

his altar decorations and

the bronze baldacchino.

the dome, TIPS FOR WALKERS
Bernini said that
although St Peter’s Starting point: Largo di
had a hundred defects, Santa Susanna.
the Pantheon did not have Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
any. From the Pantheon, Getting there: Take Metro line A
make a small detour to Piazza to Repubblica or any bus to
della Minerva where you can Termini, then walk. Buses 61, 62,
see the bizarre Bernini obe- 175 and 492 stop in Via
lisk, supported by a small ele- Barberini.
phant, by the church of Santa Best time for walk: Go either
Maria sopra Minerva u (see between 9am and noon for good
p108). Then retrace your steps lighting conditions in the church-
and take Salita dei Crescenzi to es, or between 4pm and 7pm.
Stopping-off points: The
KEY Angel on Ponte Sant’Angelo Piazza Barberini and Fontana di
Walk route Trevi areas have lots of bars and
reach the fabulous Piazza pizzerias. The many elegant cafés
J Good viewing point Navona i (see p120) which en route include the famous
q Metro station was remodelled by Bernini Caffè Giolitti (see p109) and
for Pope Innocent X Pamphilj. outdoor cafés and restaurants are
0 metres 250 The design for the central plentiful around Piazza della
fountain, the Fontana dei Rotonda and Piazza Navona.

0 yards 250

284 ROME AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk along the Via Appia Antica

Lined with cypresses and pines as it was when the
ancient Romans came here by torchlight to bury their
dead, the Via Appia is wonderfully atmospheric. The
fields are strewn with ruined tombs set against the
picturesque background of the Alban hills to the south.
Although the marble or travertine stone facings of most
tombs have been plundered, a few statues and reliefs
survive or have been replaced by copies.

Capo di Bove Tomb of Sixtus Pompeus

Start from the the Righteous 9

Tomb of Cecilia
Metella 1 (see
7*" $ .
p266). In the
&5&--"

Middle Ages this

area acquired the 7*" %&* .
name Capo di
Bove (ox head) &5&--*
from the frieze of
festoons and ox

heads still visible Gothic windows in the church 7*" $"10 %* #07&
7*" 53&#";*"
on the tomb. On of San Nicola 2 7*" %&* .&5&--*

the other side of "
7*"
the road you can see the on both sides of

ruined Gothic church of San the Appia, are 11*"

Nicola 2, which, like the other tombs, some "

Tomb of Cecilia Metella, was still capped with the 7*$0-0 %* 503 $"3#0/& /

part of the medieval fortress remains of the medieval 5*$"

of the Caetani family. towers that were built over

Proceed to the crossroads 3, them. On the right after

where there are still many passing some private villas,

original Roman paving slabs, you come to a military zone

huge blocks of extremely around the Forte Appio 5,

durable volcanic basalt. Just one of a series of forts built
around the city in the

19th century. On the “Heroic

left, a little further on, Relief” 7.

stand the ruins of On the left of

the Tomb of Marcus the road are the 7*" %&* -6("3*
Servilius 6, showing ruins of the so-
fragments of reliefs called Tomb of

excavated in 1808 by Seneca 8. The great

the Neo-Classical moralist Seneca owned

sculptor Antonio a villa near here, where

Canova. He was one he committed suicide in

of the first to work AD 65 on the orders of Nero.

The ruined church of San Nicola 2 on the principle that The next major tomb is that

excavated tombs and of the family of Sixtus

past the next turning (Via their inscriptions and reliefs Pompeus the Righteous, a

Capo di Bove), you will see should be allowed to remain freed slave of the 1st century

on your left the nucleus of a in situ. On the other side of AD 9. The verse inscription

great mausoleum overgrown the road stands a tomb with a records the father’s sadness at

with ivy, known as the Torre relief of a man, naked except having to bury his own

di Capo di Bove 4. Beyond it, for a short cape, known as the children, who died young.

Artist’s impression of how the mausoleums and tombs lining the Via Appia looked in the 2nd century AD

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 285

Section of the Via Appia Antica, showing original Roman paving stones The figure on the right is a
priestess of Isis. Behind her
From Via dei Lugari to Fuscus r, with five portrait you can see the outline of a
busts in relief of members of sistrum, the metal rattle used
Via di Tor Carbone his family. Next comes the at ceremonies of the cult.
Just past Via dei Lugari on the Tomb of Tiberius Claudius
right, screened by trees, is the Secondinus t, where a The majority of the tombs
Tomb of Pope St Urban group of freedmen of the are little more than shapeless
(reigned 222–230) 0. Set Imperial household were stacks of eroded brickwork.
back from the road on the left buried in the 2nd century AD. Two exceptions in the last
stands a large ruined podium, stretch of this walk are the
probably part of a Temple of Passing a large ruined Tomb of the Festoons i,
Jupiter q. The next stretch columbarium, you reach the with its reconstructed frieze
was excavated by the Tomb of Quintus Apuleius y of festive putti, and the Tomb
architect Luigi Canina early in and the reconstructed Tomb of the Frontispiece o, which
the 19th century. On the right of the Rabirii freed slaves (1st has a copy of a relief with
century BC) u. This has a four portraits. The two central
is the Tomb of Caius frieze of three half-length figures are holding hands.
Licinius w, followed by a figures above an inscription.
smaller Doric tomb e When you reach Via di Tor
and the imposing Carbone, the Via Appia still
Tomb of Hilarius stretches out ahead of you in
a straight line and, if you wish
to extend your walk, there are
many more tombs and ruined
villas to visit along the way.

KEY
Walk route

J Good viewing point

0 metres 250

0 yards 250

E TIPS FOR WALKERS

5*$" Starting point: Tomb of Cecilia
/ Metella.
" Length: 3 km (2 miles).
K 11*" Getting there: Taking a taxi is the
9 " easiest way to reach the tomb.
7*" Alternatively, take the 118 from
F Piazzale Ostiense or the 660 from
H Colli Albani on Metro Line A.
Best time for walk: Go fairly
%&(-* &6(&/** early, before it becomes too hot.
7*" M 7*" 1 "55*$ Stopping-off points: There is a
I bar near the church of Domine
J Quo Vadis?, before the start of
J the walk, but it is advisable to
take your own refreshment.
0 There are also several well-
7*" &30%& "55*$0 established restaurants on the
= first stretch of the Appia,
C Figure on the Tomb of the including the Cecilia Metella, Via
Heroic Relief 7 Appia Antica 129, tel 06-513
7*" %* 503 $"3#0/& 6743 (closed Mon).

286 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Tour of Roman exterior of his studio 8 at
Tombs, Legends and Artists
No. 16, a corner building

studded with ancient statues

The northern half of central Rome with its air of and carvings. Turn left onto

mystery is a great place for families to explore. Via del Corso 9, Rome’s

Following this trail of creepy places and High Street. This is 1.5 km

famous deaths interspersed with glimpses of (just under a mile) of

palazzi and shops that has

the city’s historic artists’ centre, visitors can hosted parades, carnivals,

see Imperial mausoleums, a death mask and races and processions for

a crypt decorated with monks’ bones. This centuries and still functions

is also a Rome where art isn’t just in the as the main drag for Rome’s

Frieze from museums – it’s everywhere – so you’ll see evening stroll, the
Ara Pacis
working art studios, pass Rome’s Gallery of passeggiata. As you pass on

Fine Arts and wander down the famous “artists row”. your left the Ospedale di San

Giacomo (founded in 1339 as

a hospice but now a main

hospital),

you’ll see

on the 9 F

K 7*"-&

7 ' %* 4"70*" 1*";;" 7*" %&- $0340 H ( %
7*" % 1&//" %&-
7*" %&- #"#6*/0
1010-0
7 % 0$" E7*" -"63*/"
7*" %* 3*1&55"
Castel Sant’Angelo, site of the Emperor Hadrian’s tomb 1 7*" " #36/&55*

Imperial Tombs of Via Canova, is the church 7*" %
7"/5"((*0

Begin at Emperor Hadrian’s of Santa Maria Portae -6/(05&7&3& */ "6(645"
tomb, deep in the heart of the Paradisi 7, designed in -6/(05 %&* .&--*/*
papal Castel Sant’Angelo 1 1523 by Antonio Sangallo
(see pp248–9). From the the Younger with a 1509 7*" 6-1*"/0 7 " $"/07" 7*"
castle’s riverside entrance, Madonna and Child by
turn left then left again along sculptor Sansovino. The
7*" %&--" '3&;;"

the star-shaped walls, before octagonal interior dates to 7*" "3" 1"$*4

turning right into Piazza 1645. Turn right down Via

Cavour, surrounded on the Canova (named after the 7*" 1 $"7"--*/*

south by the huge, ostentatious sculptor Antonio

Palazzo di Giustizia 2 (see Canova), to 1*";;"
"6(6450
p229), slowly sinking under its see the *.1&3"503&

own weight since 1910. Turn 7 * " 7 $ 0 - 0 / / " 1POUF $BWPVS

right down Via Colonna to 1*";;" *-"" .- "5 5" 7*" 50."$&--*
$"7063 &3& 13"5* 7 * " % & - - " 3 " / $ * 0
cross the Tiber on Ponte
53*#0/*"/0
7
Cavour. Once across the busy 7*" $" 5&7&3&
."3 ;*0
Lungotevere, turn left to go (05&7
5F
into the church of San

Rocco 3 (see p141). Just -6/ SF
F
beyond it lies the -6 /( 05 $"45& --0 W -6/(0

Mausoleum of 1 UF 6NCFSUP

Augustus 4 (see

p141), sprouting a

miniature grove of 4BO1 P"OOUHFFMP 'JVNF
cypresses. To its left
-6/(05&7&3& 503 %* /0/"
sits the ancient altar,
Ara Pacis 5 (see
p140).

The Tridente 0 metres 200
Continue heading north up
Via di Ripetta. On your left 0 yards 200
is the graffiti-covered
courtyard of the Accademia KEY Baroque magnificence inside the
di Belle Arti 6, Rome’s fine Suggested route Chiesa di Gesù e Maria 0
art academy, designed in
1845 by Pietro Camporese. q Metro
On the right, at the corner

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 287

TIPS FOR WALKERS

Starting point: Castel

Sant’Angelo

Length: 3.6 km (2.2 miles)

Getting there: Take bus 30, 34,

40, 49, 62, 70, 87, 130, 186,

224, 280, 492, 913, 926 or 990.

Best time for walk: Go in the

afternoon, when the area starts

to come alive.

Stopping-off points: Piazza del

Popolo is flanked by two great

Roman cafés with clear political

affiliations – leftist Rosati (see

The Piazza di Spagna and the famous Spanish Steps, usually busy with p329) on the west side, right-
visitors but quiet on rare occasions i wing Canova on the east. The
Spanish Steps area has some

right Chiesa di Gesù e Maria hawking everything from great eateries as well as the usual
0, Carlo Rinaldi’s 1675 Old Master Madonnas to fast food chains (see pp318–19).
Baroque masterpiece. Further Modernist abstracts. Take

along, at No. 18, is the Casa the third left, then right onto

di Goethe q (see p136). quiet Via Margutta y, home p135). Turn right down Via

"//6/;*0 The Corso ends in the of artists’ studios and galleries Gregoriana to No. 28, where
dramatic Piazza del
Popolo w (see for centuries. Turn right painter Frederico Zuccari

again down Via Orto di turned the door and window

p13s7q)u. aTrheeis7*"-& 53*/*5® Napoli to return to Via del frames of his Palazzetto
namedIM = %&* Babuino, then left. On your Zuccari s into monsters. At
.0/5* right, reclining on a fountain the bottom of Via Gregoriana,
% (3&$* 7 *7"*" % .&"-3 (#6"5#5"6 and surrounded by various turn left up to Via F. Crispi,
7*" 7* 03*" 4QBHOB graffiti and placards, is one then right down Via Sistina
* / 0 1*";;" %* into Piazza Barberini d,
of the ugliest – and noting Bernini’s fountain (see
most respected – p252). Turn left up the
statues in square, cross Via V. Veneto,
and left again. A few dozen
5 5 7*

"

.

"

3
after the church on itsD 5-" $30$& 41"(/"
* 50 paces up on the right is the
C G %&--& staircase to the church
0 7*" '3"/$&4$0 $3*41* of Santa Maria della
7 7*5503*0 7&/& Concezione. To
*" %& - %&h ; & 74* "* 4%5 *"/73*""5 *14653**'*$";*0/&
7*" : finish, stop at the
; #BSCFSJOJ first landing to

7 '-03*"3 3 0 7*" 7&/ & 50
7*" #0 7% 6$"& 1.0 " $ &--&- $* "4&
7*" #&-4*"/" $

$ 055* 1*";;" 7*" (3&(03*"/"
7*" $0/% 03( .*(/"/&--* 7 1301"("/%"
$
7*"
" /0/"



%

* (

0

-

&

0
7*" #
/ 7*" ;6$$)&--*

& enter the creepy
Capuchin Crypt f
8#"13*"#;&;3"*/*

north end, Santa Maria del 7 * " % & - 573*"* %5 0 "7/*(&/0/&4* (see p254), where
there are four chapels
Popolo e (see pp138–9). The decorated with mosaics
and skeletal displays.

church, which is full of art When you leave the crypt

treasures, gets its name “St Rome. The Babuino u (like head for Piazza Barberini
for the Metro station.
Mary of the People” because the famous Pasquino) has

it was built to help exorcise served as a soapbox for

the ghost of Nero from a political and social dissent for

walnut grove on this site, centuries. Via del Babuino

once Nero’s family estate ends in Piazza di Spagna i

where the disgraced emperor (see p133), usually thronged

was secretly buried. The with tourists. The pink house

estate once continued up the to the right of the Spanish

slopes of what are now the Steps is the Keats-Shelley

Pincio Gardens r (see p136), Memorial House o (see
above the piazza to the east, p134). Take a look inside to

and locals declare that the see Keats’ death mask.

ravens’ screams are those of

the dead emperor. Leave The Spanish Steps to the

Piazza del Popolo from the Capuchin Crypt

southeast corner to stroll Go up the famed Spanish

down Via del Babuino t, Steps p (see p134–5) to Bones and skulls from monks in the
lined with art galleries Trinità dei Monti a (see Capuchin Crypt f

288 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Walk around and bars. A short staircase
Trastevere and Janiculum Hill at No. 9 leads to the Museo
di Roma in Trastevere 9
This walk begins in the warren of cobbled, medieval (see p210), devoted to the
streets of Trastevere, which is becoming ever more history of everyday Roman
popular, and shows you the neighbourhood’s hidden life. Exit the piazza at the
gems rather than its major sights. In the morning enjoy northwest corner and cross
the mosaics and frescoes in the local churches before Vicolo del Cedro to continue
pausing for lunch in central Trastevere. Then go for a straight on Via della Scala,
gentle climb up the Gianicolo, or Janiculum Hill. This
long crest parallels the Tiber, and is blessed with the G
best panoramic views in Rome. At sunset, couples find 7 * " -& "-%0 '" #3* ;* -67/* "( 0%5& -(-*"" /- 6*$/0(-"&/3 4"&
it a romantic place to go for a stroll.
7*" 4 '3"/$&4$0 %* 4"-&4
Trastevere 5, a communal 5 7*" 4 '3"/$&4$0 %* 4"-&4
outdoor parlour, busy with JD 7*" %&*
cafés, guitar-strumming
The high altar of San Benedetto 3 backpackers on the fountain 7*"-& "-%0 '"#3*;*
steps, and visitors to the
Southern Trastevere gorgeous Santa Maria in (*"/*$0-0
Start at Santa Cecilia in Trastevere 6 (see p212–13). C
Trastevere 1 (see p211), a Exit the square on the south 7*"-& "-%0 '"#3*;*
church that hides its best – side into tiny Piazza San Cal- 7 %* 1 5" 4
the basement excavations of listo, and take the right fork 7*"-& %&--& .63" "63&-*&
St Cecilia’s house and Pietro down Via di San Cosimato ( ( " 3 * # " - %*
Cavallini’s sole surviving into the large triangular Piazza J
Roman fresco inside the clois- di San Cosimato 7, bustling 7*" I
tered convent – behind a (until 2pm) with an open-air
bland 18th-century interior. food market. Backtrack to =1*";;"-& 7*" " ."4*/"
Turn left out of the church, Piazza Santa Maria in "63&-*0 7*" (*"$0.0 .&%*$*
left again onto Via dei Salumi, Trastevere. Along the square’s
then right on Via in Piscinula north side you’ll see a tiny
into Piazza in Piscinula 2, street called Fonte d’Olio,
named for the remains of a entrance into the twisting
bathing pool underneath. On maze of alleys and ivy-
the piazza’s south side, below covered buildings at the heart
an 11th-century bell-tower, of Trastevere. The street
sits the tiny church of San bends sharply left, then turn
Benedetto in Piscinula 3, right onto Vicolo del Piede to
(ring the doorbell for entry). arrive at the diminutive Piazza
It contains parts of a beautiful de’Renzi, lined with medieval
Cosmati mosaic pavement, houses. Turn left to follow Via
13th-century frescoes, and the della Pelliccia, then left again
saint’s cell. Head west along at the pedestrian intersection.
Via della Lungaretta and cross This will bring you into the
the Viale di Trastevere to visit elongated triangle of Piazza
the excavations of a 5th-cen- San Egidio 8, alive with cafés
tury basilica and fragments of
its later frescoes below San
Crisogono 4 (see p210).

Central Trastevere Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and its enchanting church 5
Turn left out of the church
and left again to continue
along Via della Lungaretta to
Piazza Santa Maria in

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 289

the Porta Settimiana w (see TIPS FOR WALKERS

p218). Instead of frescoing the Starting point: Santa Cecelia in
Trastevere.
Villa Farnesina e (see pp220–
1), just up Via della Lungara, Length: 4.7 km (2.9 miles).

he spent so much time with
his lover that, unlike the famed Getting there: Take bus 23,
44 or 280.
Galatea in the dining room,
Best time for walk: Tuesday or
the “Raphael” work in the
Thursday (to see the Cavallini
Loggia of Cupid and Psyche
fresco), starting late morning
was executed largely by his
while the churches of southern
assistants. Across from the
Trastevere are still open.
Farnesina squats the Palazzo
Stopping-off points: Trastevere
Corsini and the Galleria
is the most restaurant-intensive
Nazionale d’Arte Antica r district in Rome, so it has plenty of
(see p218). Tucked behind the
eateries and bars (see pp324–5).
Raphael’s Galatea in the Villa gallery – accessible by

Farnesina e backtracking down Via della

Lungara and turning right on to Bramante’s Tempietto y

- 0 metres 150 Via Corsini – are the Botanical (see p219). Go on up Via G.

6

/ Gardens t (see p218). Garibaldi to the broad basin of

(

0 0 yards the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola

5 150

&

7 The Gianicolo u (see p219). Continue along
Continue back south on Via Via G. Garibaldi to the 1644
&3 & della Lungara through the Porta Porta San Pancrazio i, which
7 % Settimiana, and turn right up had to be rebuilt in 1849 due

* 9

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3*"3* '"3/&
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H 7*" $034*/* -6 makes a sharp left turn, veer del Gianicolo to enter the park,
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past shops and bars into equestrian monument to the
Piazza della Scala, where the general o (see p218). Here,
Carmelite convent of Santa paths are lined with marble
Maria della Scala 0 (see busts of other Risorgimento
p210) has an ornate interior. heroes. When you reach the
Lighthouse of Manfredi p (see
Northern Trastevere Steps at the tranquil Botanical p216), the dome of St Peter’s
The far northern part of Gardens t appears to the north. Continue
Trastevere, between the down the steps at the
Gianicolo and the river, is Passeggiata’s first bend to see
where the artist Raphael dallied the 400-year-old remains of
with a baker’s daughter at the Tasso’s Oak a (see p216). At
Casa della Fornarina q (see the foot of the steps, rejoin
p210), on the right just before the Passeggiata. Beyond it, a
few steps up, finish at the
KEY lovely church of Sant’Onofrio
s (see p219). From Viale Aldo
Suggested route Fabrizi you can catch bus No.
870 back to the city centre.
J View point

290 ROME AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Walk around the Aventine

Rising just across the Circus Maximus from the Palatine, parents hosted St Peter. The
the residential Aventine Hill has served as a leafy haven current church dates largely

of villas and mansions since Imperial times. This south- to a Renaissance-era

ernmost of Rome’s legendary seven hills is still an oasis remodelling, and includes a
where traffic noise all but disappears. Yet few visitors Passignano altarpiece.
walk here – despite the lure of fine old churches, love- Continue north
ly city panoramas, and rarely visited ancient ruins. up Via di Santa Prisca, angle
You’ll also explore Testaccio, a fine area for authentic left through Largo Arrigo VII,
restaurants, and see a Roman pyramid. turn left on Via Eufemiano,
and immediately right onto

Via Sant’Alberto Magno.

once, an angel in This leads right into Parco

disguise. Turn left Savello 8, a garden of

down Via di San orange trees with a

Gregorio and cross panoramic river view over

wide Piazza di Porta Trastevere.

Capena, keeping the Leaving the (3"/%& "7&/5 */0

long dusty oval of the 1"3$0 %*
Circus Maximus 5 4 "-&44*0

(see p205) on your 1"

right. At the start of %* 3*
7&3&
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see the modernist bulk 10350 5FWFSF & 7 4 ".-"#(&3/500
of FOA 6, originally
5 .&-"/*" 7*" 4 %0.7&*/*"$0% * 4 " / 5 "

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Ministry of Italian 1*";;" % E 1*";;"
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launching his

ill-fated conquest of 05& 7*"
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completion, it has (*07"//*

The Aventine housed the UN’s Food and 5" 1*";;" 71*0"--"*4*0//*&0. 7(*&"--4&0.*/*
6/ 5&45"$$*0
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magnificent ancient sites, the 7 77*"* " -/ * $(0)- "*# & 3 ;5*" # " ( - * "( / 1"3$0 %&--"
7 " 3&4*45&/;"
massive Baths of Caracalla 1 Across the Aventine 9 H I M7 . "

(see p197), where plebeian and Turn right on Via del - % 0 "/* %&--
7*" 1 $"4&--* 4&55&.#3&
patrician alike once bathed Circo Massimo, and * " " -7
1*";;"
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poet Shelley found inspiration della Fonte di Fauno to 7*" ("-7"/*

for Prometheus Unbound). start climbing the 1"3$0 7*" $"*0 $&45*0
5&45"$$*0
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entrance sits the church of SS you to a small piazza 7*" 045*&/4& 1*";;"-&
F 045*&/4&
Nero e Achilleo 2 (see p194), before the church of
#0"3*0
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Vecchio 3, first home of the %&- $".

Dominican nuns (see p193). 7*" (*07"//* %" &.10-*

Turning northwest up Viale

delle Terme di Caracalla, take 7*" %&- 10350 '-67*"-&
the first right onto Via di Valle

delle Camene, a tree-lined

parallel to the main road.

Angle right up Salita di San 7*" %&- $0..&3$*0
Gregorio and ascend the

imposing staircase of San 7 ' /&(3*
Gregorio Magno 4 (see p192)

for great views of the 7*" 045*&/4&

Palatine. Look for the third-

century marble table (in the

St Barbara chapel, on the left

side of the church) at which 0 metres 300 =
St Gregory the Great shared 0 yards 300
meals with the poor and, The apse of Santa Prisca 7

N I N E G U I D E D WA L K S 291

park, turn right onto Via di TIPS FOR WALKERS

Santa Sabina to the gorgeous Starting point: The Baths of
Caracalla entrance on Viale delle
basilica of Santa Sabina 9 Terme di Caracalla 52.
Length: 5.3 km (3.3 miles).
(see p204), where its rare, Getting there: You can walk
from the Circo Massimo Metro
5th-century wooden doors stop, or take bus 118 or 628.
Best time for walk: Start in the
incorporate one of the earliest morning, timing your walk so
that you can lunch in Testaccio.
Crucifixion representations. Stopping-off points: You’re
spoilt for choice in Testaccio,
Continue along Via di Santa where fantastic and authentic
local eateries abound, from
Sabina to see the fine Cosmati cheap pizza places to some of
Rome’s finest restaurants.
work in SS Bonifacio e Alessio
where it would be turned into
0 (see p204). The street ends such (now) classic Roman
delicacies as oxtail stew and
in the Piazza dei Cavaliere di pajata (calf intestines).
Continue along Via di Monte
Malta q (see p204), where you Keats’ gravestone at the Protestant Testaccio, which becomes Via
Caio Cestio, to the Protestant
get a tiny view of St Peter’s Cemetery on Via Caio Cestio t Cemetery t (see p205) where
such luminaries as Keats and
dome through the keyhole at Shelley lie in peace. At Via
Marmorata, turn right to pass
that have long burrowed into the Porta San Paolo y, a city
gate dating to AD 402. As you
its flanks to take advantage of walk through the remains of
the Aurelian Wall into Piazzale
7*" %&- $*3$0 1" 7*" % &* $ & 3$)* (37*&"( 0%*3 *4 0 the terracotta’s constant, Ostiense, you can’t miss on
3$0 % &- cool temperature for your right the Pyramid of
1*";;"-& . . $*3$0 storing wine. Turn Caius Cestius u (see p205).
"44*. 0 left through The final leg is a long stroll
"4 4*.0 1*";;" %* Piazza down Via Ostiense or,
4"#*/" 6(0 -" 1035" $"1&/" Orazio alternatively, hop on the bus
."-'" (Nos. 23, 271, or 769) to the
last stop to see the wonderfully
%$JSDP .BTTJNP 7*" %* 7" weird Centrale Montemartini
--& i, an early Industrial Age
-"3(0 & %* '"6/0 7*"-& %&--& 5&3. &--& power plant now stuffed
"33*(0 7** 7*" "7&/5*/" with ancient sculptures. Bus
7 % 5&3.& %&$* 1*";;" %* 4 %* $ numbers 23 and 769 will take
you back to within walking
7*" %* 4 13*4$""/& /5 $". distance of Piramide Metro.
7* " % '0
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number 3. Giustiniani to continue
Turn left down Via di skirting the hill along Via di
Porta Lavernate, passing the Monte Testaccio. Across the
façade of Sant’ Anselmo w. street, you’ll see the blind
Built in 1900, the church arcades of the Ex-Mattatoio r,
houses a 3rd-century mosaic a defunct abbatoir whose
1JSBNJEF scene of Orpheus found workers were paid, in part,
during excavations. From with the day’s offal. They
Piazza dei Servili turn right would carry this quinto quarto
on Via Asinio Pollione to go (fifth quarter) of the animal
down off the Aventine. across the street to one of
Testaccio’s early eateries,

Testaccio and South
Cross Via Marmorata and
continue down Via Galvani.
As you cross Via Nicola
Zabaglia, the ground on
your left rises to form Monte
Testaccio e (see p204), an
ancient rubbish tip made up
entirely of potsherds. It is lined
with dozens of restaurants

KEY Ancient sculptures on display in the Centrale Montemartini i

Suggested route
q Metro
J Viewpoint



TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 294309
RESTAURANTS AND CAFES 310333

SHOPS AND MARKETS 334353
ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 354367

CHILDREN’S ROME 368371

294 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY

Rome has been a major tourist in former palaces graced by celebri-
centre since the Middle Ages, ties of the past and present. Rome
when pilgrims from all can offer the full range of accom-

over Europe came to visit the modation, mostly in historical

home of Catholicism and its relic- buildings, very little purpose-

packed churches. The nostalgic built. Pensione (guesthouse) is

can still sleep in a 15th-century no longer an official category, but

hotel, or stay around the Campo in practice many retain the name

de’ Fiori market, where visiting and more personal character that

ecclesiastics were entertained has made them so popular with

by courtesans in the Renaissance travellers. Other possibilities

era. Those who prefer their history include hostels, residential hotels

a little less raffish could opt for an and self-catering accommodation.

ex-monastery or convent, or stay The hotels are organized in the

in a still-functioning religious listings (pp300–9) according to

house. Romantics could sleep in their price category and area. On

the house once occupied by Porter at the page 297 a key lists the symbols
Keats, while stargazers could stay Majestic Hotel that denote each hotel’s facilities.

WHERE TO LOOK expensive hotels we have rec- concentration of cheap hotels,
ommended in the centre are with some decent (if basic)
Around the Spanish Steps and full, try the Borgo – close to ones among them. The hotels
Piazza di Spagna lies the tra- the Vatican – or the lively recommended lie in a fairly
ditional heartland of foreign quarter of Trastevere. safe area on the east side of
visitors, with some of the the station. The approach to
most exclusive smaller hotels. Those in search of glamour the centre from Termini has a
Similar places can be found should head for Via Veneto, number of good hotels that
all over the centre, to the which has many grand and are particularly suitable for
west of Via del Corso. luxurious hotels. the business traveller.

While moderately priced If you’re looking for a HOTEL PRICES
accommodation is rare in cen- peaceful retreat, try the area
tral Rome, the advantages of around the Aventine, or one Although Rome may still offer
staying right on the doorstep of the high-class hotels next less expensive accommodation
of the city’s many ancient to the Villa Borghese park. than other large cities like
sights cannot be over- London or New York, rates
estimated; you can walk to Although many of the for comparable establishments
the major areas of interest and streets immediately around have caught up. Prices are set
easily return at midday for a Termini station are rather by the state, and hotels
shower and siesta. If the less seedy, the area is nonetheless should display the official rate
a convenient stopover for on the door of each room.
travellers and there’s a VAT (IVA in Italian)is usually
included, and has been taken
The Verdi Room in Via Veneto’s Majestic Hotel (see p309) into account in the price cate-
Rome from the rooftops – a panoramic cityscape gories on page 297.

Hotels in Rome generally
have low and high season
rates. April to June, Septem-
ber and October are high sea-
son. Double-check tariffs
when booking hotels at other
times of year as you may ini-
tially be quoted the higher
rate. Excepting Christmas and
New Year, there are some real
bargains to be had between
November and February, and
also in July and August. Many
hotels also offer special Inter-
net booking deals. Discounts
for long-stay visitors and
groups are often negotiable.

WHERE TO STAY 295

Grand Hotel de la Minerve (see p301) room sizes can vary Villa San Pio garden (see p306)
dramatically even within the
Rooms without a bathroom same establishment (and this even if you decide not to
can cost about 30 per cent is often reflected in the pric- stay. Another reason for
less. Single travellers are badly ing), so don’t be afraid to ask checking your booking care-
catered for, and though it is to see your room before you fully is that some hotels delib-
possible to find a single room check in. For the same rea- erately overbook and then
for 60 per cent of the price of son, swimming pools are few offer unsatisfactory alternative
a double, on average you’ll and far between, but roof accommodation.
pay as much as 70 per cent, terraces or gardens are com-
and occasionally even more. mon across the range of If you arrive by train, touts
hotels. may descend on you at the
station with offers of accom-
Top-class hotels will usually modation. They can be of
have some soundproofing; some use if you are looking
otherwise noise levels can be for a budget hotel, but you
dreadful, in which case ask should exercise the usual cau-
for a room facing away from tion. A better bet if you have
the road. not booked
anywhere in
Parking in central Rome is a advance is to
problem, though a few hotels head for one of
have a limited number of the tourist
parking spaces of their own. board offices
(see p297).
Business visitors to the Here, staff will The Locarno
capital are well catered for, reserve you a (see p302)
with hotel facilities ranging room within
from internet access to meet- the price range you specify.
ing rooms.
CHECKING IN AND OUT
HOW TO BOOK
Italian hoteliers are legally
HIDDEN EXTRAS The Italian postal service obliged to register you with
the police, which is the reason
tends to be unreliable, so it is they always ask for your pass-
port. They usually hold on to
Even if the price of your safer to book by phone, fax it for a while, but you need it
if you are going to change
room includes service, you or through the hotel website. money. Everyone in Italy is
supposed to carry with them
are frequently expected to tip You should do this at least some sort of identification.

bellboys and for room service. two months in advance if you In some of Rome’s cheaper
pensioni, do not be surprised
Rates are often not inclusive want a particular hotel in if you are asked to pay on
arrival. To speed up the
of breakfast, especially at some May, June, September or checking out process, men-
tion in advance if you intend
luxury hotels, where it may October; Easter and Christmas to pay by credit card. A tax
dodge used by many hotels is
cost up to 50 euros. Hotels are also busy. If you require to ask for payment in cash;
you are entitled to refuse.
usually add hefty surcharges any particular features, such

to international phone calls, as a terrace or a view, insist

and may charge for parking on confirmation in writing to

and air conditioning. The cost ensure that you get on arrival

of drinks in minibars can be what you have been

high – you can buy a cheaper promised.

supply from local shops. If a deposit is required you

can usually pay by credit card.

FACILITIES Under Italian law a booking is

valid as soon as the deposit is

Hotel standards have improved paid, so you could lose

of late – you can money if you

expect air condi- pull out.

tioning and some Double-check

bathrooms with hair bookings prior to

dryers in middle- departure. Many

range establishments hotels have a

and phones in mid- fierce cancellation

dle to lower price policy and if you

rooms, although are not happy

budget travellers with the accom-

staying in cheaper modation, or it is

hotels shouldn’t not what you

expect much more booked, there is

than a clean room. every chance that

Because most you will be

hotels occupy his- The Portoghesi Hotel charged for at

toric buildings, (see p301) least one night,

296 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

€300 to over €3,000 for a
week in a two-bedded room,
though some residenze are
only available for fortnightly
or monthly lets. A full list is
available from tourist board
offices. These are some of the
most central:

Di Ripetta
Via di Ripetta 231, 00186.
Tel 06-323 1144.
Fax 06-320 3959.
$ [email protected]
www.ripetta.it

The reception area of the Regina Hotel Baglioni (see p309) In Trastevere

Vicolo Moroni 35–36, 00153.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS especially in high season, and Tel 06-808 3375.

charge a standard rate if you Fax 06-808 4947.

Provision for disabled travel- require an extra bed in a room,

lers is very poor. Small hotels whether for a baby or an Residence Babuino

that occupy parts of buildings adult, which can add anything Via del Babuino 172, 00187.

sometimes only start their from a few euros to 40 per Tel & Fax 06-361 1663.

rooms up several flights of cent on to the price of a dou-

stairs, whereas certain other ble room. For a family with Vittoria

establishments can accommo- older children, two-room suites Via Vittoria 60-64, 00187.

date disabled guests on the are sometimes to be found. Tel 06-679 7533.

ground floor, or only have a Fax 06-679 2185.

couple of rooms that are BED & BREAKFAST

appropriate. Ramps, wide RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS

doorways and bathroom A fairly new option for visi-

handrails are rare. tors to Rome is bed & break- If you do not mind an early

Our entries for wheelchair fast accommodation. Roman curfew, quite a few religious

access in the listings below hosts offer their spare rooms institutions take in paying

rely on the establishments’ to visitors, generally for a guests. You do not have to

own assessments; any specific lower price than an equiva- be a practising Catholic to

requirements should be lent hotel room. Contact the stay in one of these as people

checked before booking. Bed & Breakfast Association of all religions are welcome.

There is a useful website of Rome for a good selection You should be sure to book

(www. romapertutti.it) dedi- of rooms and apartments, well in advance, however, as

cated to mobility within the Rome Bed & Breakfast in the all of the following places

city of Rome, while the Lazio US, or visit Rome’s tourist cater for groups of students

region provides advice on board website (see p297). and pilgrims. Il Rosario

accessibilty further afield convent is located near the

(800 27 1027). Bed & Breakfast Association of Colosseum, while Nostra

Rome Signora di Lourdes and the

TRAVELLING WITH Via A. Pacinotti 73. Tel 06-5530 Casa di Santa Brigida are

CHILDREN 2248. Fax 06-5530 2259. both well positioned in the

$ [email protected] www.b-b.rm.it centre of Rome. Prices are in

Italians love children and they the same range as for the

are usually welcome across Rome Bed & cheaper hotels.

the range of hotels. Facilities, Breakfast

however, tend to appear Tel 1-800-872-2632.

unimpressive on paper. Most Fax 1-619-531 1686.

hotels can provide cots or www.romebandb.com

small beds, but high chairs,

children’s meals and babysit- RESIDENTIAL

ting services are rare. Those HOTELS

hotels that do offer special

facilities for children are listed If you want the com-

with a symbol (see key p297). fort and privacy of

In practice, though, many your own apartment

establishments – especially coupled with the

smaller, family-run ones – go services of a hotel,

out of their way to be helpful. you could opt to stay

Many hotels do not have in a residenza. Prices

any special rates for children, range from around Bedroom at the Residenza Cellini (see p305)

WHERE TO STAY 297

Casa di Santa Brigida Young Women’s Christian CAMPING
Piazza Farnese 96, 00186. Association (YWCA). Its
Tel 06-6889 2596. location near Termini is con- Most campsites are located
venient but insalubrious, so quite far out of town – suita-
Casa Il Rosario those arriving at night should ble for an occasional excur-
Via Sant’Agata dei Goti 10, 00184. take care. Those wishing to sion into Rome – with the
Tel 06-679 2346. book budget accommodation exception of Flaminio Village,
are advised to contact the which is only 6 km (4 miles)
Nostra Signora organisation in advance. north of the centre.
di Lourdes Advance bookings are not
Via Sistina 113, 00187. always accepted. Flaminio Village
Tel 06-474 53 24. Via Flaminia Nuova 821, 00189.
HOSTEL AND Tel 06-333 2604. Fax 06-333 0653.
DORMITORY ADDRESSES www.villageflaminio.com

Associazione Italiana TOURIST BOARDS
Alberghi per la Gioventù
(Youth Hostels Association) Provincial and state tourist
Via Cavour 44, 00184. boards can provide advice on
Tel 06-487 1152. accommodation. Hotel Reser-
Fax 06-488 0492. vation is a booking service
www.ostellionline.org with offices at Termini station,
as well as both airports.
Façade of the Excelsior (see p309) Fawlty Towers
Via Magenta 39, 00185. Rome Provincial Tourist Board
BUDGET Tel 06-445 4802. (APT)
ACCOMMODATION Fax 06-4543 5942. Via Parigi 5, 00185. Tel 06-48 89 91.
www.fawltytowers.org Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat. Leonardo
Even if you are travelling on a da Vinci Airport, Fiumicino. Tel 06-
shoestring, it is possible to Ostello del Foro Italico 6595 5423. Open 8.15am–7pm
find a clean, decent room in Viale delle Olimpiadi 61, 00194. daily. Termini Station, Piazza dei
Rome. Dormitory accommo- Tel 06-323 6267. Fax 06-324 2613. Cinquecento, 00185.Tel 06-8205
dation can be found at rock- www.hostelbooking.com 9127. Open 8am–9pm daily.
bottom prices in simple www.romaturismo.it
establishments, such as the Ottaviano
Ottaviano. Youth hostels are Via Ottaviano 6, 00192. Hotel Reservation
a good option – and not just Tel 06-3973 8138. Tel 06-9774 5469. Open 7am–
for the young. At the Ostello $ [email protected] 10pm daily. www.hotelreservation.it
del Foro Italico bed, breakfast www.ottavianohostel.com
and shower can all be had at USING THE LISTINGS
a very reasonable cost. Fawlty Stargate The hotels on pages
Towers has good facilities for Via Palestro 88, 00185. 300–9 are organized
the price, including a roof Tel 06-445 71 64. Fax 06-4938 according to area and
terrace; like Stargate, it is 4134. www.stargatehotels.com price. The symbols after
located near Termini station. the hotel’s address show
YWCA the facilities it offers.
Women can get single, Via C. Balbo 4, 00184.
double or triple rooms at the Tel 06-488 3917. Fax 06-487 1028. ¤ No credit cards
www.ywca-ucdg.it e Lift
h Parking
0 Restaurant
: Caters for children
÷ Fitness facilities
z Air conditioning
7 Wheelchair access

Price categories for a double
room with bath or shower
including breakfast, tax and
service:

¡ up to 100 euros
¡¡ 101–180 euros
¡¡¡ 181–280 euros
¡¡¡¡ 281–380 euros
¡¡¡¡¡ over 380 euros

The pool in the Aldrovandi Palace garden (see p309)

298 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Rome’s Best: Hotels

Roman hotels range from frescoed palaces and fin- Locarno
de-siècle bastions of faded glamour to family-run This intimate Art D
guesthouses. Most are close to restaurants, shops and hotel is a step awa
transport. Whatever the price level, all the hotels Piazza del Popolo
shown on this map have something special to offer, some of Rome’s bes
whether it is a chic location, or a roof terrace with shopping. (See p30
soaring views across the city. The only drawback is
that these places and all those on pages 300–9 are 0 metres 500
exceptions to the many unremarkable hotels in the 500
city, so you should book well in advance. The hotels
shown here are the best of their kind or price range.

Raphael
Behind its ivy-veiled
exterior, the Raphael
is full of antiques and
art, from ceramics by
Picasso in the lobby
to Renaissance pieces
in some bedroom
offers a conve
central loca
(See p301

Campo de’ Fiori
Central Rome’s best
bargain offers small,

well-furnished
rooms and terrific

views from the
sixth-floor roof
terrace. (See p303.)

Grand Hotel de
la Minerve
Smart, post-

modern interiors
grace this

international
standard hotel.

(See p301.)

Sant’Anselmo
To be sure of getting a room you need to book
well in advance at this peacefully
located Roman villa. An added bonus for
guests is the lovely secluded garden. (See p306.)