เรื่องเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path
Witchayuth Sakulwisal

Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South

Hor Mok: Sufficiency Folowing the King’s Path

Witchayuth Sakulwisal

One morning, I woke up feeling drowsy.
The bright sunlight shining through my windowpanes
made me realize it must have been late morning
already. I walked over to open the windows and
saw my father laying banana leaves on the rubber
rail beside the house.
“Dad! Why are you drying the banana
leaves?” I belowed out.
“YourMumneedsitforHorMok 1,”hereplied.
Feeling half-asleep, I headed back to bed.
Suddenly, my mother caled out for breakfast, and
I had to wash my face, clean my teeth, and proceed
to the dining table instead. We had “Khao Tom
Kui” that morning. It was simply rice boiled in plain
water, to which Mum would occasionally add
pumpkin cubes or diced taro. The Khao Tom is
served with assorted condiments, such as salted
eggs, salted anchovies, smal fried fish, and stir-fried
vegetables. My mother’s outstanding cooking skil
neverchanged.Al herdishesweresavory,delicious,
and ful of flavors, even without added MSG. I stuffed
myself with two bowls of boiled rice, and that filed
me up perfectly.

1 wcHuidroreryrMiannogbkeanoa(fanplaoteslresniabavlteeivsk.eilTnyhdiHsckoofcMloecoaokvn)eusrteacfnerdresapmrtootaeanindSsog.uatlha-nEgaasltaAresiaclnasdsiischincgoroekdeidenbtys, satdedaemdintog

aa

Witchayuth Sakulwisal 153

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

After the meal, while I was gathering the
dishes to be washed, I heard the sound of coconut
scraping from the kitchen. Both of my parents were
busy preparing ingredients for Hor Mok - Mum was
cleaning basil leaves and young noni leaves while
Dad was grating coconut. Therefore, I rushed to finish
my washing up in order to help them with the cooking.
Mum asked me to cut some lemongrass and dig up
galangal roots from our vegetable garden next to
the house to make curry paste. I grabbed a knife
and a smal spade and walked towards the garden
located just steps from our house. As I walked past
my grandmother’s vegetable plot, I spotted her busily
moving up and down the patch where green lettuce
was growing. I asked her what she was doing.
“I’mcatchingtheselittlethieves.”Shereplied
while picking up snails and caterpilars which had
sneaked into the plot and feasted on her lettuce.
I laughed and teased Grandma that I was going to
steal her galangal and lemongrass as wel. She gave
me a smile of approval and stood up to help me
colect the herbs. While I was digging the galangal
and cutting the stalks of lemongrass, Grandma told
me that in the old days, she had suffered hardship
raising her children because of her poverty-stricken
condition. Fortunately, she was thrifty and cautious
about saving. Apart from her main income from
rubber tapping, she planted vegetables and sold
them to gain extra cash. Through her frugality,

154 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

Thai Tales from the Deep South 155

Grandma could afford to send her daughter,
my Mom, to university to earn a bachelor’s degree.
Until now, Grandma stil grew vegetables and my
parents helped her plant the seeds and look after
them. Grandma preferred to grow chemical-free
vegetables. She used chicken manure from Dad’s
chicken coops as fertilizer. Hence, we always had
organic vegetables at home.
After my errand in the garden was
completed, I brought galangal and lemongrass to
Mum. Dad marched towards the large earthen
water jar nearby the kitchen and delved out a big
snakehead fish. He hit it on the head, removed
the scales, and fileted it into smal pieces.
“Where did you get the snakehead fish?”
I asked with curiosity.
“He got it from a fishhook in the swamp
nearby our house yesterday,” Mum replied for Dad.
Subsequently, I helped my mother tear the banana
leaves to the right size, sharpen wooden skewers
to be used as pins, and make the ‘Krathong’ or
banana leaf bowls. My father made coconut milk
by squeezing shredded coconut flesh mixed with
water. Then, Mum put slices of fish filet into a pot,
folowed by coconut milk, eggs, and curry paste.
She seasoned the mixture with fish sauce and sugar
while stirring it until it thickened. Fragrant basil and
young noni leaves were laid in the bottom of each
‘Krathong’ before the fish curry mixture was careful y

Witchayuth Sakulwisal

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

placed inside. Final garnishes of chili and julienned kaffir
lime leaves were added before the steaming process.
During the time we cooked, Mom said to me,
“You see, dear, almost every ingredient we used
today is free. We don’t need to buy any vegetables
because we colected them from our garden. We grow
our coconut trees, and the snakehead fish is from the
swamp near our house. Even the eggs are from the hens
raised by your Dad. We don’t have to spend a penny
for our Hor Mok today. This is because your Dad and
I base our lives on the Sufficiency Economy Philosophy
of King Rama IX. Apart from that, your Grandma has also
adopted the same philosophy which had been instiled
in me since a young age. These are the reasons why
your Dad and I live simple lives, sufficient and thrifty.
So that one day, our beloved son, we can afford to send
you to a medical school.” Mom ended her talk with
a tease about my childhood dream. I used to tel my
mom that when I grew up, I wanted to be a doctor
because I would like to help sick people.
Having that conversation with Mom, I realized
that I should learn more about the principles of the
Sufficiency Economy. After tidying up the kitchen, I went
to Dad’s office to use the computer to search for

156 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

Thai Tales from the Deep South

information about King Bhumibol’s Philosophy of
Sufficiency Economy and his royal initiatives. I found that
His Majesty was concerned about the Thai people,
particularly those residing in remote rural areas. Resulting
from his regular visits to remote communities, His Majesty
acquired knowledge and a better understanding of
local problems and adversity. Thousands of projects were
created folowing the royal initiatives in order to ease
people’s difficulties and suffering. Most projects focus
on problems of soil, water, forest, and other related issues
affecting agriculture, which is the main occupation of
the Thai people.
In my homeland, Narathiwat Province, there
are several royal initiative projects. The first one is caled
the Klaeng Din project (the soil aggravation project),
an approach to solve soil acidity turning wastelands into
arable farmland. Another project is a water preservation
development to be used as an abundant water resource
at the Phikun Thong Development Study Center.
This knowledge center for land reform in the peat swamp
area has a complete range of activities, such as analyzing
and testing plants, livestock care, providing technical
knowhow, agricultural training, and lectures on the
principles of Sufficiency Economy Philosophy.

Witchayuth Sakulwisal 157

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน

As I explored further, I also learnt that the core of HM the King’s
Sufficiency Economy Philosophy is to live in moderation and peace.
The term “Sufficiency Economy” does not mean that one must
constantly be frugal and unhappy. It means that one should lead
a reasonably comfortable life, without excess, or overindulgence in
luxury, but enough just like my family that had adopted this middle
path. We felt extremely grateful for His benevolence. Therefore,
I am determined that from now on, I wil take the late King as my
role model. I wil adhere to and employ His moderate paths in
self-reliance, self-sufficiency, thriftiness, living a simple life, and being
honest in my work, my daily life, and my future family life. I would
also like to spread the knowledge of this philosophy to others.
The delicate and appetizing aroma of Hor Mok touched
my nose, folowed by Dad’s caling.
“My dear boy, the Hor Mok is ready, come and eat it now.”
I walked out of the room to the dining table. The Hor Mok
went down wel with my family. I felt a sense of happiness that was
derived from adhering to the “Sufficiency Economy” or the so-caled
“Middle Path”. I was proud to be a subject under the reign of King
Rama IX, our beloved “King of Sufficiency”.

158 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

The Reconnected Ties

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan
Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South

The Reconnected Ties

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

“You’ve forgotten about me, about your 161
birthplace, but you don’t have to keep my
grandson away from his root!”
That was what Che1, his father, reasoned
to Surachet. This motive overruled the long-winded
argument that they had been having about the
circumcision for Surachet’s son.
As Surachet contemplated his decision,
he resented the fact that he finaly accepted his
father’s proposal to have his son get a traditional
religious circumcision or Sunat in his hometown,
Pattani, rather than at a hospital in Bangkok.
He had no idea where his father got the punch
line about staying true to the root from, or how he
unguardedly agreed to the idea. He was frustrated
with himself. He could not believe that while the
world has progressed, his father was still
a conservative man. Who on earth would
command an Islamic religious circumcision for their
sons when they’ve come of age now? Who would
want to risk having old Tok Mudeng2’s shaky hands

1ofCThheailainsda. spoken vernacular Malay word for father used commonly in the Deep South
2SoTuothkoMf Tuhdaeinlagndis. a traditional local male circumciser performing the operation on boys in the

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

to make an incision around his son’s penis? Didn’t Che watch the
news on TV about severe accidents from local circumcision?
As a matter of fact, Che was supposed to be more rational and
forward-thinking than people his age. At the age of 80, he always
folowed recent news and current affairs. A paradox of this plan was
that his father stil performed the much frown-upon Mak Yong3
dance rituals. Acting as a spiritual healing shaman was considered
contradictory to the Islamic principles. About this profession of his,
Che once stood on his ground and firmly said that tradition and
religion must be separated. Yet, this time he was being odd.
How come Che could not even distinguish tradition from sanitary
reasons!
As he accidentaly promised his father, Surachet reluctantly
sent Suradet, his 8-year-old son, to Pattani two weeks prior to the
circumcision ceremony. He wanted to get the boy accustomed to
the family and the local surroundings because Suradet only visited
Pattani once when he was two years old. This early visit would make
him feel more comfortable and have no fright towards the ritual.
Despite the convenience of transportation between Bangkok and
Pattani: with daily buses, trains, and airplanes, it was stil quite hard
for him as a lecturer of Laws in the university to make a frequent
visit. During the school break, his son would also be busy with extra
tutoring classes. His son’s continuous education was another reason
Surachet was reluctant to host a circumcision ceremony in his
hometown.

H3staiMntedauok-fBKYuedoldnahgnitsatinsr.oaIotttwrsa.adsitbiaonnnaeldfobrymthoef Pdaannc-Me-adlraaymsiaanfrIosmlamnoicrtPhearrntyMbeaclaayussiea,ofpiatrstaicnuilmairsltyatnhde
vtMhilraloakugYgeohsnatghsewwuaessleloaonsfcietnhuessotermdaedfoimtrioohnreeaalltirhnaegdaipltiiunorgnpaorlistceuisat.ileI.tsT,ihnbevusoteltvhheeesyatlraianrnegclreairtdugaaenllysciafnrrgoewasnntideldlsppuripraoictntpictooesddsaeiysn.sitohne

162 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 163

Even when it was time to say goodbye, Surachet was stil worried
that his son would not get along with life in the countryside. However,
that was not the case. As it turned out, Suradet was absolutely fine
and had adjusted himself wel to the new environment. Every time
Surachet caled his son, the boy always told him about exciting
experiences in Pattani. Those stories were uneasy to Surachet’s ears,
so he stopped caling his son eventualy.

Surachet traveled by plane to Hat Yai International Airport.
He rented a car to drive to his father’s home in Pattani in the evening
of the day before the ritual. As soon as he parked, there were many
cars in front of the house. A lump of annoyance formed up in his
throat. He vented out his frustration as soon as he saw his father.
“Che! Why is the event so big? What are these, Three tents?
How many cows were kiled for this ceremony? Come on, this is too
much! I certainly can’t afford to waste my money for this common
ritual,” Surachet vented out a series of complaints before the old
man could even open his mouth to explain.
“There, a Nang Talung4 theater! How much money did you
spend? Why do you have to waste your money on this ceremony
so much? Is that meant to be for yourself, or your grandson? I’ve
told you already that I wanted to keep it simple, haven’t I?” Surachet
continued blurting out.

4atinrrNaetdhaifintosiguocnnaTdshaeali)uns,nalCognandimgstabbaloeutedrnniagadp,iiostMipaouannllaaaalryb.ssbtiyrael,evaioanftdisohInnadodofonPweasptituaap.lupNneatgrn,ygafrSmooemuatnhSseoru“ntlheceairttynhweTrhh”eari(el“altnehdae.tshSheiarmdipoluawprppaelratt”ys
NtcSheoaenunttmighmeutearstnilecurinTasgnhi.ainsiTlsashlinoezdwea’.lscyTtodphriuespaapppneepdrtesftoahrraemirneaagunbmdceieaecdnacecuoesnoesafiirstetlisessaoecthpfoeamtrrhpaelatiencpdadutpbeapydre.eats,wtythphiietceanlsalcyrrrebaeetnotwrd,euetrhnineg1a5tchteoarns,dhaon5wd0.

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

The old man seemed to run out of patience.
If it were not for a roomful of guests, he would have
shouted back at his son.
“I didn’t mean to arrange such a huge
ceremony. But when people knew about my
grandson’s getting circumcised, a lot of help flooded
in from my friends, neighbors, and patients who were
cured by me. What would you have me do? Not to
mention the shadow puppet show, it was offered
without any cost by my close friend - Uncle Deng.
Did you completely forget about my close friend?
Even the tents and the cows - al these were offered
and supported by our relatives,” his father explained
once he got the chance.
“There are also a lot of people coming to
help prepare for the big day. Why don’t you go say
helo to them in the backyard?” Advised his father.
“Later,Che.I’vegottorest,”refusedSurachet.
Surachet walked away from his father and
went to a bamboo bench under the neighbor’s
mangosteen tree. He did not yet sit down for a minute
when his son ran up to him with a red bantam in his
arms. Surachet was not surprised at his son’s delight
in his face. However, he did not understand why that
boy was holding the bantam.
“Look, Dad! This is Robert. I got it from Bae5
Air. Robert is so smart and talented. He crows a lot

5 Bae, a Pattani vernacular variant for ‘Abang’, meaning older brother in the Malay language.

164 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 165

when he stays with me. But when he was kept by Bae
Air, he wouldn’t make a sound! Fortunately, I took him
in before he would be put in Tom Yum6 soup. You know
what? I took him to a crowing contest and was awarded
the second runner-up. I got a warm duvet blanket as a
reward. Then, Bae Air wanted Robert back and offered
me 2,000 baht! No way, I would return my Robert to
him.”
“A bantam contest?” Surachet asked in
amazement.
“That’sright,Dad!It’slikeabirdcooingcontest,”
said the little boy.
“I see! There were no bantam contests when
I was young, only those for Javanese doves or red-
whiskered bulbuls,” remarked Surachet.
“Whoa! Speaking of the red-whiskered bulbuls,
there are plenty of them at Uncle Soree’s house. His birds
are superb and always won awards,” the boy said with
excitement.
“And, do you know what, Dad? Uncle Soree is
such a ferocious bird trainer. He goes tapping rubber
from midnight every day and finishes at dawn. He then
goes to a teahouse to have morning tea, and he would
go home to train his birds. No wonder why al of them
are magnificent cooers.”

rfgh6reraTadesgodcirmithaesinnloYttisrpsu,ipgesmipiucnpceehisinrsasaT.asnhdltaeyimhpleaeornnbodgsf.rhTgaoesosntm,eakrynoaudufmfsisrloyisluiumrcsheseaodlrueaipanc,vteteuhsrse,iusgaebadlrlloyabtnhycg.oiatoTslkh,deeldiimsstwoienuijctpuhtiihcsseoh,atrlfiasimsnohpdms(sapaourduacerewfw,lnaai)tvn.hodTufocrremrsus,hswyhuiientmhd-

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

“Why wouldn’t I know about this, boy. This is my hometown.
I am aware that rubber tappers work at night and rest during the
day. It’s not because they are lazy but it’s the way they work.”
“Realy? If you know about this, why is it that you never told
me before?” Suradet asked a rhetorical question and suddenly
changed the subject,
“Anyway, Dad, is it a great thing to be a Mak Yong shaman?
I saw a lot of people coming for Grandpa’s help. When they heard
about my Sunat ceremony, they immediately offered support for
the ritual. They said it wouldn’t do not to hold a grand circumcision
ceremony for Grandpa’s grandson.”
“It’s certainly not about Grandpa being a Mak Yong
shaman, my child. Wel, you’d better go and play with Bae Air now.
I’d like to speak to our relatives in the kitchen.”
At the reception party prior to the ritual day, what topic
could be more interesting than the circumcision experiences of the
men in the vilage? For it had been many years since Surachet last
visited his hometown, he automaticaly became the target of the
conversation. The vilagers made fun of him because Surachet used
to run away from getting circumcised and hid himself behind
a bush. Another amusing anecdote was when Surachet’s penis
shrunk into the size of a pinky. There was nearly nothing left for Tok
Mudeng to cut. But the most embarrassing story seemed to be about
how Surachet used to carry around two coconut shels with him after
being circumcised.
“Why coconut shels?” Meena, a young girl who was passing
by to get some ice, but stopped to listen to a joke, could not help
raising a question.

166 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 167

Soree impetuously answered with no consideration of the
interlocutor.
“Chet was too sensitive to stimulation. When he got an
erection, it made the wound sore, especialy after being newly
circumcised. To release his nerve, he needed to knock on his knee
with the coconut shels. You see, only one shel won’t do for him,
cheneededtwococonutshelsknockingonbothknees. Unbelievably,
he could be easily turned on by just seeing a female goat passing by.”
Soree was the only one who could laugh at his own joke.
When he noticed that something was wrong as Meena started to
look awkward, his laughter died instantly. To his embarrassment,
Soree immediately asked the young lady to leave and changed
the topic.
“Wel, the circumcision ceremonies held in our vilage are
decent ones, not too ostentatious like those in other vilages. Not to
mention the one held in Narathiwat, the one which the family
organized an elephant procession in the opening ceremony. This
grand fashion had been carrying out in the family for generations.
Last year, when they could not find an elephant for the ceremony,
the circumcision wound of the boy would not dry out. They had to
hold the ceremony once more with the elephant.”
“Their ancestors were mahouts. The elephants had always
been present in the ceremonial parade. It was a mistake letting go
of the tradition. The family ought to make sure there was an elephant
for the ritual last year,” Che, who just joined the conversation, inserted
his thought.
“It’s good you’re here, Che! May I ask? Tomorrow morning,
before Tok Mudeng circumcise your grandson, can I shoot the gun
as the signal for the ceremony?” Soree requested.

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

“No, no! I wil have Pencak Silat 7. Gunshot is not our custom.
Don’t get it mixed up!” Che sharply objected Soree’s request.
As Che took part in the conversation, the joking and
laughing turned to the settling of tomorrow’s agenda.
The conversation flew like a whirlwind. When the sound of the prelude
drum and gong loudened, everyone realized that it was already
8 p.m., the time when the shadow puppet performance began
playing.
Surachetexcusedhimselftotakehissontowatch NangTalung.
In front of the shadow puppet theatre, Suradet could not
understand the show which was performed in the local Malay
language. Therefore, Surachet entertained his son by teling the
stories of his childhood. He also explained to his son that what they
were watching then was caled ‘Nang Talung’ or ‘Wayang Kulit’ in
the Pattani Malay language.
“When I was young, the shadow puppet performance was
one of my favorite shows. Uncle Deng’s troupe always accompanied
your Grandpa’s Mak Yong troupe. Earlier today, you asked me if
a Mak Yong shaman was so great, right? Mak Yong itself is not that
significant. It is just a form of folk dance-drama like Manora –
a traditional Southern-Thai performance we have seen on TV. What
makes it truly unique is that Mak Yong is also a traditional spiritual
healing for the unknown or incurable ilnesses. The sick ones would
come to Grandpa and ask him to perform Mak Yong dance to heal
them. Many of them were cured miraculously. You see, traditional

7ifbonoPgrdemycnociinsuacnkuotsrSreipedilosaa,rtanthitdsiensagtunebrsujmtermcikubtesrtsuoe,alalglaltrytataeprcrepkmf.leinrfosgrtaoanpcdrlaothsfesrsooswfioirnnegalalitnceodamdInpddeitotiiontinevsetioasniwlameta.apIrtotiniasrlyaa.rfEutsvl.le-Irbnyondpeyairgftihgobhfotitunhrge-

168 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 169

healers can cure some diseases which cannot be cured by the
modern medicine. For this reason, people have a considerable
amount of respect and deep gratitude to your Grandpa. He is 80
years old now and has been living in this vilage for ages. Grandpa
is considered a reliable local senior in the community. Undoubtedly,
there are lots of people who are wiling to help him in whatever
business he has. Unlike me, I left this vilage years ago…. If it were
for me to host the ceremony, it would be hard to imagine how many
people would come. By the way, are you happy living here, son?”
Not a sound from the little boy but silence.
Surachet turned to look at his son.
The boy had nodded off to sleep.
It was 9 a.m. in the main hal of the house, Tok Mudeng
and Che sat beside Suradet. At first, Surachet was supposed to sit
next to his son to give him encouragement, but he refused and
proposed Che to take over the role instead. The three of them in
the ritual were encircled with a cloth partition as high as the waist
so that the guests could observe what was going on in the ceremony
easily. The observation area was reserved for men only. Surachet
was also one of the spectators outside the partition.
Suradet’s facial expressions were ful of fear, and his penis
had shrunk. Tok Mudeng, holding a scalpel in his hand, tried to give
the boy a friendly banter to ease up his anxiety. He puled the tip
of the boy’s penis.
“Don’t be scared. I wil not cut it yet. Let’s wait for the
Pencak Silat to finish first,” said Tok Mudeng.
Outside the house, two men gracefuly performed the
beautiful Pencak Silat, portraying an exquisite fighting form with

Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายดา้ มขวาน

percussive footwork and intricate body movements. A crowd of
guests stood there and watched the performance. Melow, pleasant
music accompanied the martial art helped elevate the atmosphere.
The opponents moved harmoniously in a slow pace to find the right
moment to strike. The movements were gradualy faster, and so was
the tempo of the percussion instruments, making it more fascinating
and exciting for the audience to watch. While everyone was deeply
engaged with the show, a sonorous sound of the gong reverberated
unexpectedly.
“Bong!”
The sounds of the gong drew Suradet’s attention away from
the ritual. As soon as he looked up for the source of the sound, Tok
Mudeng made a steady cut.
“Chop!”
There was not even a single cry of pain from the boy.
Surachet recaled that the circumcision actualy did not hurt him
either. The pain would begin later, perhaps because of the skilful
Tok Mudeng or the distracting gong’s sound. But once Surachet
noticed the bleeding at the tip of his son’s penis, he turned away
and rushed out of the ceremony.
“Where in the hell are you going?” Che bellowed to
Surachet.
“Where else, Che? I’m going to get two nice coconut shels
for my son.”

170 The Reconnected Ties

The Day Love EBildooaml-sFiitnr:Our Homeland

Heedayah Benkob

Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South

TEhideaDl-aFyitrL:ove Blooms in Our Homeland

Heedayah Benkob

One day during late Ramadan, after finishing the 173
morning prayer and the supplication, I purposely
volunteered to clean up Ayah’s (Father) little office,
where dust had begun to take over. In that room,
I coincidently came across a family photo album
which, al these times, had been lying in the drawer
of Ayah’s desk. Looking at the first photograph:
an old but a meaningful one, a wave of nostalgia
from my sweet childhood some ten years ago swept
over me.

The photo was taken on the Eid al-Fitr day (the so-
caled “Festival of Breaking the Fast”, a religious
holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to mark
the end of the month-long dawn-to-sunset fasting
of Ramadan). On that day, my family members,
which included Ayah (father), Maa (mother),
my ten siblings and myself, took a family photo at
the front porch of the mosque. I could remember
wel that in my hometown, the Eid day was not only
a celebration for Muslims but also for my friends
who are Buddhist-Thai and Thais of Chinese descent
as well. Everyone from near and far in the
neighborhoods of my vilage gathered around to

Heedayah Benkob

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

celebrate, congratulate, and express their goodwil towards one
another, bridging the gap of differences. To me, it was the best time
of the year, metaphoricaly like when the flowers of pure love were
in ful bloom throughout the land.
That photograph also swept my mind away to the old days when
I was only seven years old. After the sun bid farewel to the horizon,
the sound of Adhan, uttered in Arabic, began to louden and cal
al Muslims to gather at the mosque. It worked as an alarm for
everyone in the vilage to be aware and ready to welcome the
next morning which would bring an auspicious day.
On the morning of Eid, everyone in the vilage walked joyfuly to the
mosque in groups. Some who lived further away would ride a bicycle
or a motorcycle to join the crowd. It was noticeable that the vilagers’
faces were glowing with happiness more than usual.
A little while after everyone assembled, the sparse mosque became
crowded with hundreds of visitors who were filed with delight.
Everyone in al ages smiled at each other. They also made merit or
Nuree (in Southern dialect) by bringing several kinds of potluck
meals to share with others at the mosque. I stil clearly remember
the day Maa prepared her distinctive Southern dishes for Nuree
dinner on the occasion of breaking fast in Ramadan. That day in
the morning, Maa and I went to the market to get some fresh
ingredients. She always told me that cooking has been considered
a significant part of Muslims’ culture. She taught me to make sure
that the ingredients are of the finest quality for Nuree meals. As we
prepare these meals, we need to be attentive to every step of the

174 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South 175

cooking. We should prepare every dish with utmost finesse and turn
out delicious food cooked using original methods. Our efforts in
offering high-quality meals to other people would be memorable
and considered a meritorious deed. Otherwise, if our food were not
so good, we might be blamed, and such carelessness could be
seen as committing a sin. Maa’s teachings always motivated and
inspired me to learn and understand the importance of being
a giver. At least, by helping my mother cook on that day, I learned
the principles of traditional Deep-South cuisine, which alowed me,
as a local Muslim lady, to pass on this culinary heritage to the next
generation. Those special dishes range from ‘Nasi Kerabu’ (Southern
Thai style spicy rice salad with mix vegetables), ‘Nasi Dagang’
(Steamed rice with coconut milk and fenugreek seeds served with
fish curry), ‘Ketupat Sotong’ (Coconut milk boiled squids stuffed with
glutinous rice), to my most favorite dish, ‘Chicken Golek’ (Griled
marinated chicken basted with a spiced coconut milk gravy),
a famous and unique specialty for its irresistible aroma and rich
flavors.
After finishing Maghrib prayer (sunset prayer) that night, everyone
who performed the prayer in the mosque was invited to have dinner
to break the fast together. A variety of colorful and tasty dishes and
beverages were prepared by the ‘Kidmat Team’ or local voluntary
residents at which al are welcomed to join the fast breaking as wel.
Before the meal, Ayah, my father, as an Imam leading prayers at
the mosque, took the lead to recite the Dua (the supplication), and
informed everyone to wait for the official announcement of the
sighting of the new crescent which would mark the end of Ramadan
and the Eid al-Fitr day. The announcement would be broadcast on

Heedayah Benkob

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน

TV in about an hour by the Sheikhul Islam Office (the Islamic Council
of Thailand). That night, it was the most delightful moment for me
that I could notice Ayah’s widest smile for the first time. This smile is
imprinted in my memory until today.
Soon after, the moment everyone was eagerly anticipating had
arrived, when the large TV screen at the mosque showed Sheikul
Islam (Head of Islamic Council of Thailand) making an official
declaration that the Hilal or the crescent moon had been sighted
marking the end of Ramadan, and that the next day was the Eid
day. Right after the announcement, joy filed the room. Some people
even shed tears of happiness for the big day to come. My friends
and I also leaped with joy for the festive day to come to our
homeland.
To welcome the important day, Ayah invited the mosque committee
and the elderly seniors of the vilage to discuss hosting a big
celebration for the Eid day. There were dozens of local volunteers
both men and women (one of them was me) to help with the
arrangement of the venue, sound system, and al facilities (some of
which were offered by our non-Muslim neighbors). Even though it
took many hours to complete the preparation and it was quite
exhausting, my heart felt great delight. It felt even better when
I spotted happy smiles across my parents’ faces, coupled with
complements from the elderly. It felt wonderful that even though
I was just a little Muslim girl, I was appreciated. I couldn’t put my
feeling into words.

176 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South

The sound of Adhan Subhi (a morning prayer cal)
caling from the distance produced a simple yet
beautiful melodies of people’s lives on their special
day. The sun was stil in its slumber on the horizon,
letting hundreds of twinkling stars dance around
the dark sky. A cool breeze gently blew a sweet
scent of local food and desserts permeating the
whole area. In a few hours, the color of the
anticipating day would cast the land into great
delight and peacefulness.
Folowing the sound of Adhan, everyone in the
vil age, adults and children, gathered at the mosque
to perform a prayer led by Ayah, the Imam of the
mosque. Listening to the beautiful and powerful
voice of Ayah reciting the Quran, I couldn’t help
but wel up especialy when it came to an Ayat
(a verse of the Quran) which he used to teach me
every night. The key message of the Ayat said
“O mankind, indeed We have created you from
male and female and made you peoples and tribes
that you may know one another. ….” The essence
of that verse reminded me to understand the
differences among mankind. I also learned how to
live peacefuly in diversity having love and empathy
to strengthen relationships among people.
The profound impact of that day’s prayer brought
to my cheeks tears of joy and gratitude.

Heedayah Benkob 177

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

After finishing the morning prayer, the time when the
sun shone its golden halo across the Eastern skyline,
everyone went back home to prepare for their attires,
food and drinks. They also rechecked the cleanliness
and tidiness of their homes to welcome their visiting
relatives and guests. Tons of chores were miraculously
completed with the help of vilagers’ congenial spirits.
The chanting of Takbir (an Islamic Arabic expression to
praise and show gratitude to Alah) echoing aloud
throughout the land on the Eid day or so-caled Raya
Day among Thai Muslims created the atmosphere of
a strong sense of unity and solidarity among vilagers.
Everyone unanimously wore colorful traditional Muslim-
style outfits and traveled to the mosque early to
congratulate each other. They shared good stories,
asking for forgiveness, and gave each other happy
smiles. After performing the Eid prayer, everyone listened
to the Khutbah (a sermon) delivered by the Imam (my
father) under the topic of “How to Build Love in
a Multicultural Society”. The sermon was also broadcast
via the community radio channel. I could say that my
father’s speech was part of an important means of
communication to foster unity, solidarity, and mutual
respect in this multicultural community. I also believed
that al positive movements that happened in our
vilage were driven by the hearts and minds of everyone
in the community, rippling with the same beat for years.

178 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South

Eventualy, al those nostalgic memories came to an
end when I felt the warm drops of tear roling down
my face. That old precious photo was now soaked.
The tears I shed were tears of nostalgia. I deeply missed
Ayah, my father who unexpectedly left us eternaly
just a few days after the Raya day that year. The only
thing I could do at that moment was to hold the
picture tight to my chest, sobbing and trembling in
his room while the cleaning was left unfinished.
“Oh, my dearest Ayah, even though, deep inside, my
heart is so desolate and in pain, I would like you to
know that I am so proud and grateful to be your
youngest daughter. Please be assured that every effort,
dedication, and self-sacrifice til the last breath you
devoted to build love and peacefulness in this diverse
community wil be continued and succeeded by Maa,
your ten children, everyone in the vilage, and me,
your daughter. And of course, all profound and
precious memories about you wil always be with us
and this faraway land ever after.
“Oh, my beloved motherland, on Eid day this year, I wish I could
see the blossoms of pure love grow and bloom throughout the land
we cal home, forever’.

Heedayah Benkob 179



A Non-Local Teacher

Paseeyah Asae

Translated by Wilaiwan Ka-J



Thai Tales from the Deep South

A Non-Local Teacher

Paseeyah Asae

I am a new in service teacher, non-local,
Assigned by the Principal to teach first-grade pupils and to be the
librarian.
Scheduled by the Principal in the early afternoon,
Prayers of different faiths are separately performed.
A student spoke to me,
“My dear Teacher, I’m a Christian, not performing Buddhist prayers.”
I told her to go to the library and sit in silence,
Watching her senior Muslim pupils performing their prayers.
Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims are al brothers,
Growing up they wil understand my intentions.
Before finishing the last class on Fridays,
I always give my students homework assignments.
The Christian girl tels me,
“On Sunday, I’l go to Church with Mom and do my homework
there.”

Paseeyah Asae 183

เรื่องเล่าจากปลายดา้ มขวาน

Every Monday morning,
She submits her homework to me and explains what
she learnt at Church.
“Jesus Christ wil redeem believers of their sins. Mom said,
He taught us to love everyone.”
One afternoon,
After finishing their prayers to Lord Buddha,
A first-grade girl and her classmates walked over to me.
In her hands my bag containing my Muslim prayer robe.
While I was teaching Muslim pupils how to pray in the
library,
The girl handed me the bag and said,
“My dear Teacher, I bring you your prayer robe.”
I asked her a question with a smile,
“Did anyone tel you to bring it to me?”
She replied,
“No. I did it myself.”

184 A Non-Local Teacher

Thai Tales from the Deep South

Earlier,
During lunch time, I was praying in the first-grade classroom.
Surrounding me were pupils waiting for their turn to pray, laying
down their praying cloth.
One spoke with a loud voice, another one gave a word of warning,
“Keep your voice down, the teacher is praying.”
Those innocent eyes were observing me.
Despite not looking into theirs, I could see,
Reflected blissful and naive minds, such sheer happiness.
Metaphoricaly, children are pure lilies.
I finished my prayer,
And a girl gave me a question,
“Why do you pray, dear Teacher?”
“I pray to meet Alah.”, was my reply.
The girl kept asking, “Why do you need to meet Him?”
Smiling, I said, “I meet him to pray for your blessings - to excel
at your study and behave wel.”

Paseeyah Asae 185

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน

One morning,
A big Chinese steamed bun appeared on my desk.
I asked my pupils to whom it belonged.
A boy, smiling and making eye contact with me, said, “It’s from
me. I give it to you.”
Smiling, I asked him, “What’s the stuffing? It’s such a big bun.”
“Chicken filing, I know Muslims don’t eat pork.”
Smiling, I thanked the little boy. My heart was ful of joy.
Truthfuly, the stream of encouragement keeps flowing, the currents
are filed with respect.
The majority of people are Buddhist,
A girl is Christian,
And I am the only Muslim teacher.
We learn about each other and honoring our differences.
I teach them, and the other way round.

186 A Non-Local Teacher

A Tale from the Red Land

Siriprapa Chamnanturakit

Translated by Asst. Prof. Dr. Yusop Boonsuk



Thai Tales from the Deep South

A Tale from the Red Land

Siriprapa Chamnanturakit

When talking about Thailand’s red zone,
yes, I wonder if you have heard of it. It is an area
in the four districts of Chana, Thepha, Saba Yoi, and
Nathawi, across Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat, and
Songkhla Provinces. Different people’s negative
impressions of this region might not differ much from
one another; and yes, it is usualy something about
explosions or southern terrorists! In fact, these
frightening imageries instil ed in many people’s minds
are obscuring the area’s hidden gems of beauty.
And I must admit that I was one of those who had
such scary imagination. It was so until I moved
back to pursue my study at a school in Pattani.
This relocation taught me the true meaning of an
old proverb that says “words of ten mouths do not
equate an eye seeing, and ten eyes seeing does
not equate a hand touching” (probably equivalent
to pictures worth a thousand words). I am very fond
of this multicultural coexistence beautified with arts
and cultures, a reflection of local identities. And
I believe that you might feel the way I do if you
had an opportunity to experience the atmosphere
of this “red sphere, a terrifying area to many.”

Siriprapa Chamnanturakit 189

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

Today is my first school day at the new school
in Pattani. Before I left home, I felt awfuly anxious and
scared, but my mother comforted me and told me
not to think too much as the reality might not be as
troublesome as I had imagined. On the other hand,
they might turn out even better than expected.
My fear was somewhat relieved, and I came to school
cautiously. On my way to school, I rode my motorcycle
through many checkpoints. Again, I felt safer because
at least there were selfless soldiers and police officers
constantly inspecting travelers and ensuring their
safety.
When I arrived at the school, the first notable
difference I found was the dress code. What was most
obvious was the wearing of hijab (veils) by the female
students. Coupled with long-sleeved shirts and long
skirts, their dresses conceal most parts of the body.
I also saw male students wearing Muslim caps (white
circular hats) and long pants. The moment I saw them,
I immediately knew that they were Muslims. These dress
codes must be unique to the local people, I thought,
as they looked completely different from the Buddhist
students.
I parked my motorcycle and walked in to
greet a teacher at the school gate. If the greeters
were the Thai Buddhist students, they would Wai
(pressing palms together as in praying with a slight
head-bow), as usual. Thai Muslim students would say
Assalamualaikum—may peace be upon you— to

190 A Tale from the Red Land

Thai Tales from the Deep South 191

the teacher, while shaking his/her right hand, and
the teacher would respond by saying Wa alaykumu
s-salam—may peace be upon you. The exception
was that the handshake is for those of the same sex.
Starting the first class period of theday were
36 students in the classroom. I counted by the way
they dressed and found that 12 were Buddhist like
me and 24 were Muslim. My roommates, both the
Thai Buddhists and the Thai Muslims, looked very
friendly with their smiles (A friend generously told me
that believers of Islam should be caled Muslims).
My impression was that everyone gave me a friendly
smile and introduced themselves to me. After listening
to their names, I found Islamic names extremely
difficult to pronounce because they sounded different
from common names in the Thai language. My friends
explained to me that these names are either Arabic
or Malay because they are influenced by Islamic
adoption. Girls’ names are, for example,Ameenoh
and Jamilah, and guys’ names are Irfan and Hamdan.
There was no separation between Thai Buddhists and
Thai Muslims in my classroom. We happily stayed
together, played with each other, and helped one
another with homework. Although I came here for
the first day, they treated me wel as if I had been
here for a long time.
At lunch break, I walked to the cafeteria
with two friends. They recommended that unique
and popular dishes here include Ayam Golek,

Siriprapa Chamnanturakit

เรื่องเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

Massaman curry soup, and Murtabak. Because I have never had
them and wanted to give them a try, I ordered the food based on
their suggestions. The first dish to arrive was Ayam Golek. It looked
orange and smeled aromatic. It was tasty, slightly spicy, but fairly
sweet. The second one was Massaman Curry. This dish was not too
spicy. The taste was nutty-sweet balanced from the blend of aromatic
spices. The last order was Murtabak, a pan-fried bread stuffed with
cooked meat, which had a salty taste and a delicious smel from
the spices.
When I finished the meal, I went straight to the class and
studied until it was time to go home. For the entire day, I had
experienced the sharing life with the other students at school.
I appreciated the kindness and friendliness of my Thai Buddhist and
Thai Muslim friends. Despite many of our differences, such as ways
of life, traditions, and culture, they tried to explain and suggested
things about this area that I didn’t know existed before. Over the
weekend, they also invited me to take a quick trip with them to
popular tourist places in the three southern border provinces. I don’t
know why, but this time, I did not feel as terrified as before. I felt like
I wanted to actualy go out and explore more.
On Saturday, two friends of mine came to pick me up in
the morning because we needed to get to the first place, Wat
Chang Hai, as soon as possible to pay homage to Luang Pu Thuad—
a revered Buddhist monk who was long deceased—because this
friend and I believe that such an action wil bring prosperity to our lives.
Another friend of mine, a Muslim, had to wait in the temple’s front

192 A Tale from the Red Land

Thai Tales from the Deep South

courtyard until around noon. She suggested that I continue to visit
the Pattani Central Mosque because it is the most beautiful mosque
in Pattani. She told me that she also wanted to make Salah there—
the prayer routine. When we arrived at the Pattani Central Mosque,
I was amazed by the astonisshing scenery. This mosque is a two-story
concrete building with a large major dome at the center of the
building and four smaler domes in four directions. Its two towers
were exceptionaly tal and looked magnificent. I didn’t hesitate to
immediately grab my phone and took photos. Then I sat down and
waited until my friend finished with the Salah. Time flies. It was then
two o’clock in the afternoon. My friend’s father was coming to pick
one of our friends for some errands in Narathiwat. He asked the
other friend and I if we would like to spend the evening at Narathat
Beach. We didn’t hesitate to say yes. After finishing with the father’s
errands, we then arrived at the beach. The charm of this beach
can easily compete with others in Thailand. The curved beach
stretches across approximately five kilometers of the coastline.
In addition to the white sand and crystal-clear water, this beach is
home to many fishing vilages laid throughout the place. In front of
the villages, I saw boats with exquisite and colorful paintings.
My friend told me that these are Kolae boats, a culture of the
southern folks. It was their ideas to draw color patterns on them.
Moreover, there are many restaurants lined up on the beach.
We had the opportunity to enjoy our meal there before traveling
back on separate ways home. The friend’s father volunteered to
give us a ride to Pattani’s city center.

Siriprapa Chamnanturakit 193

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน

After two months residing in Pattani, I have
learned to coexist in many multicultural ways, such
as trying the tradition of eating sticky rice known as
Makae Puloh, a Malay term for a wedding or
a celebratory feast. Such dishes include Beef
Massaman Curry, beef soup, and stir-fried glass
noodles. Moreover, I was also invited to a tea charity
caled Makae Tae. This type of event raises funds to
support those in need of a large sum of money but
could not afford it. The usual meals in Makae Tae
include Nasi Kerabu, tea, and sticky rice with shrimp.
I also attended many more events.
As far as my story went, I learned that we
should not be too attached to something in life
without opening up to something new. We should
not only look for the bad side of things without taking
time to think or experience it ourselves. Like me,
I used to be very frightened of this area, but once
I came in, I experienced joy and created memorable
memories, which would not have happened if
I didn’t open up my mind to learning and living as
a member of the multicultural community amidst
differences.. Now, it appears that I have already
falen in love with the people here and grown to
be fond of its places. And from now on, I have
become a member of this region, the red land.

194 A Tale from the Red Land

My Beloved Tadika

Nurilham Damuhi

Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South

My Beloved Tadika

Nurilham Damuhi

“Alahu Akbar Alahu Akbar Ashhadu an la ilaha ila Alah…”
(God is Great. God is Great. I bear witness that there is no god
except the One God.)

The Adhan or the cal to prayer bawled
out at the break of dawn. It had woken up those
of the Muslim faith from their slumbers to perform
the morning prayer. A noise sliced the air, “Nur! Kak1
Mee! It’s time to get up for the prayer.” It was Mother
who caled to wake up everyone in the house. She
did this every morning, like a shrieking alarm clock
that made my elder sister and I hurriedly jump out
of bed. For fear of our Mother’s earful sermon, we
rushed to the bathroom for an ablution. After finishing
Subhi or the morning prayer, Kak Mee went back
for a lie in. On Saturdays and Sundays, she could
afford to have a super relaxing weekend. Unlike my
sister, it was my Tadika day. “Tadika” is an Islamic
education center or a religious school. Operated
by a mosque committee, the school provides basic
education about Islam for children aged between
four and 12 years.

1 Kak, a vernacular Malay word, referring to an elder sister.

Nurilham Damuhi 197

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

One morning, it was Mother’s duty day as
a Tadika teacher to open the school gate. I saw her
ironing my Tadika uniform in a hurry, having a quick
shower, getting dressed, and rushing to Tadika earlier
than usual. Since before 7 a.m., Mother had already
been there like a gatekeeper, welcoming her students.
Not being in her shoes, I took my time in the bathroom
singing in the shower. I never needed to hurry as the
Tadika was just around the corner from my home.
However, I needed to arrive at the school before
8 o’clock. As a morning routine, every student had to
clean their classroom including the school grounds.
It might appear odd with the fact that a teacher was
assigned to open the gate and that the students had
to see to their classrooms by themselves. This was
because we did not have a school janitor. Al Tadika
teachers had many different responsibilities. Therefore,
they needed to take up several roles at the same time:
from an accountant, an administrator, a janitor, to
even a lunch seler. That’s the reason why my friends
and I had to get to the Tadika early so we could help
our teachers clean up the school. Speaking of the
teachers at our Tadika, there were seven of them to
whom we caled “Cikgu”, a term derived from the
Malay language to address teachers. Let’s get to know
al of them one by one.

198 My Beloved Tadika

Thai Tales from the Deep South

The first teacher was Cikgu Solahuddin, or the
so-caled Pak2 Long. Pak Long was a very intimidating
teacher. With only a single glance at us, he could make
our spines tingle. He was always strict in the classroom
but quite at his leisure outside.
The second one was Cikgu Ruslan, who was
referred to as Pak Cik by the students. Pak Cik was
a pushover. It did not matter what he said because no
one paid attention to him. In the classroom, he was
always so kind and so forgiving that many students could
get cheeky they almost jumped on him for a piggyback
ride.
The third one was our last male teacher.
His name was Cikgu Marustan or Pak Su in short. Despite
Pak Su’s serious persona in the class, he liked teling
humorous anecdotes to the students. There was another
perk about Pak Su! He was also considered the most
handsome Cikgu in our Tadika.
The next teacher, Cikgu Hayati or Kak Ti, was
known among us as a dragon lady. She always looked
tense in the classroom, with a cruel expression in her
eyes (LOL). The worse thing was that she never seemed
to let down her guard outside the class, not even a smile
for the students. Her typical way of greeting the students
in the morning would be “Hey you people! What in

2 Pak, a vernacular Malay word, referring to a male person.

Nurilham Damuhi 199

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน

the name of God are you doing here? Hurry up and
clean up the room!” or “What are you waiting for? Why
haven’t you put away your bags in the classroom?”
It was simply in her nature to grumble. But anyhow, that
was how Kak Ti was, and we loved her al the same
(eyes roling with endearment - LOL).
The fifth one was Cikgu Nuriyah or Kak Yah. She
was always courteous and never uttered even a single
word of scolding to the students. Moreover, she also had
the most legible and the most exquisite handwriting
among other teachers at school.
As for the sixth teacher, Cikgu Nuryarita, she
was known as Kak Yee. Kak Yee was a strict Cikgu who
took her teaching very seriously. She seemed to focus
exclusively on academic pursuits. She would make sure
that the students realy understood her lessons unless we
would not be able to walk out of the class. If viewed as
necessary, she would prolong her class until the next
teacher needed to knock on the door to remind her
that her lesson was over (LOL).
Our last teacher was caled Cikgu Pasilah or
Kak Lah. In actual fact, this was my Mother. Everyone
tried hard not to displease her, or else the class would
turn into a religious session with lengthy sermons. However,
Mother was one of the most dedicated teachers. She
always cared about the students’ attendance, and

200 My Beloved Tadika