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Getting by with a Little Help from My Wine Friends

Lauren Walsh

We’re living in strange times.

As COVID-19 threatens to overwhelm public health resources across the country, we shelter in place and
do the best we can to keep a positive outlook and protect ourselves. Some days it all seems too much to
bear.

Maintaining a safe physical distance from other people keeps us isolated from the comfort of human
companionship; exactly the opposite of what we’d normally do when put under such psychological stress.
We long for a shared meal with friends and the warm embrace of a grandparent. Just when we need each
other most, we’ve been pried apart.

Some days it is too much to bear.

Meanwhile, Here in Miami . . .

Florida has been hit hard by COVID-19, posing a serious danger to the elderly and those with compromised
immune systems. We’ve got significant populations of both here. Somehow, though, we still don’t have a
statewide stay-at-home order. Which makes no sense. At all.

Officials in the City of Miami and in Miami-Dade County have stepped in to fill the vacuum, closing non-
essential businesses and imposing a curfew from 10 pm to 5 am each night. Our mayor, who just completed
a quarantine after testing positive, has urged all residents to take the virus seriously; to stay at home except
for brief outings to buy groceries or pick up prescriptions.

But the lack of such precautions elsewhere in the state have all of us worried. You’ve seen the photos:
beaches in the Panhandle filled with sunbathing vacationers; spring-breakers splashing in the surf on
Clearwater Beach. #YOLO seems more appropriate than #stayathome.

It’s making me crazy.

I’m one of those people who has to be super-careful about exposure to infection. While I’m not 65+ (at least
for a few more years!) my immune system is hardly A+. I can’t get a flu shot because it could provoke an
autoimmune response that’s worse. I take preventive measures such as hand-washing very seriously and
I limit my contact with sick people. That’s in normal times.

I contracted a bad respiratory infection in early December that lasted three weeks. I got it again in January,
worse that time, and was out for the rest of the month. I’m just now starting to feel like myself again.

COVID-19 has me scared silly. And anxious; so anxious.

Virtual Tastings – A Lifeline to the Outside World

The physical threat of the virus is real. News reports present grim statistics of just how serious our situation
is. But I can’t help wondering if the psychological effects aren’t worse: being cut off from friends and family
as fear and stress weigh heavily on our hearts. Worrying about the long-term propsects of economic
recession. Crossing our fingers that supply chains remain intact as we continue to shelter in place.

Yesterday I was granted a wonderful reprieve from all that.

Fun in the Xixon Cellar
Remembering the Bodegas LAN wine lunch in Miami last year. #winefriends
Thanks to Bodegas LAN and Gregory + Vine PR, I participated in a virtual tasting that included about 25
wine lovers scattered across the country. Some I’ve met in person, most I know from social media; it was
a delight to “see” them all.

We joked about bad hair days, living in our leisure wear, and massive stockpiles of wine to outlast the
pandemic. While we weren’t physically in the same place, we were all together, creating a palpable energy
that surely boosted everyone’s spirits.

As the team from Bodegas LAN guided us through the tasting (all the way from Rioja, Spain!) the world
seemed smaller and more manageable again. I was sipping a beautiful wine with the people who made it,
listening to my wine friends describe it and suggest delicious food pairings for it.

It was the best day I’ve had in weeks.

Culmen Bottle Shot

Aged Rioja is always a treat. This wine was spectacular!

About 2011 Bodegas LAN Culmen Reserva

Blend: Tempranillo (88%); Graciano (12%)

Grapes were hand-harvested from Pago El Rincón, just over five hectares in the south of the Viña Lanciano
estate. Yields were a mere 3,500 kg/ha, about half of the allowed maximum for the region. The 2011 vintage
was affected by severe drought, limiting the crop and maximizing concentration in the grapes.

Overhead Photo of Lanciano Vineyards
The Viña Lanciano Estate (photo: Bodegas LAN)
The grapes were carefully sorted and then fermented in small, cone-shaped tanks to promote color
extraction. Malolactic fermentation occurred in small, French oak barrels, where the wine continued to age
for 26 months. After bottling, the wine rested for a further 20 months before release.

Culmen is always a Reserva and is made in only the most exceptional years. Including the inaugural vintage
in 1994, Bodegas LAN has produced it just 7 times, with 2011 being the latest. They’re expecting to release
the 2015 later this year.

Tasting Notes

Color: Medium purple with flashes of violet, fading slightly at the edge. Doesn’t look like it’s almost 10 years
old!

Nose: Ripe black cherries and blackberries, baking spices, dried orange peel, burnt sugar. The longer it sat
in my glass, the more intriguing it became. I poured a glass about 90 minutes before the tasting; even hours
later it was giving off new aromas. Cigar box, leather, and a savory/meaty note after about four hours. What
a pleasure!

Exploring the Wine Glass

April 6, 2020
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Virtual Tasting of LAN Culmen

As we go into I have no idea what day of self-quarantine we are in, I hope this podcast finds you
and your loved ones safe and healthy. I keep hearing the term “new normal” and I refuse to
accept that term. It is not the new normal- it is the new temporary and if we all do what is being
asked and stay socially distant, this too will pass.

I have said over and over that the wine world is an incredible place and I am so honored to be
part of it. That has become even more apparent during this time. Many of us would be typically
heading to the big cities at least once a week during March and April to attend wine events and
these have all, for obvious reasons, been cancelled. But, we don’t just go for the wine... alright,
the wine is a huge perk, but I have created in real life friendships with so many people and
seeing them at these events is really what makes them special.

Luckily, we are also determined people. Hell hath no fury like a wine lover without wine! Many
wineries have sensed that we need an outlet and have graciously turned to Zoom to have virtual
tasting events, so we can not only taste their wines, but see our friends faces again. In the
coming weeks, I will be sharing some of these events with you. I hope you not only enjoy
learning about the wines but also the comradery that this amazing group of people have.

On today's episode, I am enjoying a glass of LAN Culmen, thanks to the wonderful people of
Gregory and Vine for arranging the get together.

Stay Safe.

NAPAVALLEYREGISTRER

Mar 2, 2020
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Allison Levine, Please The Palate: Friends meet in virtual “Cheers”

By Allison Levine

It has been more than three weeks since we entered a world of social isolation. Our homes are now the
center of our universe. We can no longer meet friends for a glass of wine at the end of the day or enjoy a
long meal over wine in a Allison Levine photo I for a glass of wine at the end of the day or enjoy a long
meal over wine in a restaurant. Living alone, drinking wine by myself is now considered acceptable and is
not judged by anyone. But, it is, of course, more fun to drink with friends and once a week, a group of
wine friends and I get together via Zoom for a Virtual Happy Hour. Wine blogger Jeff Kralik, aka The
Drunken Cyclist, is based in Houston, Texas. When life is normal, he hosts blind tastings in his home for
local wine writers. But, when we were all told to shelter in place, he decided to create a Virtual Happy
Hour as a way to get people together. Jeff reached out to wine blogger, technology professional and
friend Thea Dwelle, who is based in Sonoma and who has taken over coordinating the weekly gathering.

Wine industry friends from wine writers to wine makers to public relation people from across the country,
and across time zones, have been invited to participate. There are close to 100 people invited and each
week approximately 2025 people join in, each with a glass of wine or cocktail in hand. For some, it is
before dinner, and for others it is after dinner. But for everyone it is a welcome break in the day. For Thea,
the Virtual Happy Hour gives her a chance to “see friends, meet new people and not feel isolated. It is a
time to blow off steam but also to have conversations about what is going on and how everyone is
feeling.” We all had a good laugh this week as Thea enjoyed both a glass of wine from a bottle of
Bodegas Lan that she had opened the previous night and a glass of Peerless Kentucky Straight Bourbon.
We were all joking that it was good to have two drinks because if you have a drink in both hands, you are
unable to touch your face.

A few miles up the road in Healdsburg, Julie Pedroncelli St. John and Ed St. John of Pedroncelli Winery
join in for the Virtual Happy Hour. Julie, a selfproclaimed introvert, told me that “at first it was a bit
daunting to me with so many faces but now I like to see old and new friends. It does my introvertself good

to virtually visit and I am enjoying the time spent each week.” And her extrovert husband Ed added, “It's
just a great way to relax and blow off some steam. It feels kind of like 'Cheers,' a place where everyone
knows your name.” He added that the virtual call has also opened up a new avenue of contacts for them
and as an unintentional result, they will be doing an online “Taste Up” with new friends they have made in
the group

We all know that social distancing and isolation can be lonely; to some it is depressing. These weekly
tastings allow us to not only see friends and meet new people, but also to spend time with people we
might normally only see once or twice people, but also to spend time with people we might normally only
see once or twice a year in person. For Jim van Bergen of JvBUnCorked, who lives in New York, “Virtual
Happy Hour is a great way to see the coworkers and associates we often see at press and wine events,
tastings, and dinners. Whether we talk about what we're currently working on as writers, it's fun to see
what people are tasting, and sometimes the topics get serious. We're all fans of some region, have a
great deal of knowledge and focus on some regions, so the conversation is fabulous, and like cocktail
hour, it can get funny and raucous.”

Sandra Crittenden, a wine writer from Houston who regularly tastes with the Houston Chronicle as well as
with Jeff Kralik, said, “with those and the parade of tastings and lunches/dinners that regularly come
through Houston that I’m not getting to do, I’m missing the wine talk and social interaction with my peers. I
like the virtual events because I am not seeing my local wine friends right now. I am also interested in
hearing what likeminded folks are drinking. It is an opportunity to get social time with real friends and
virtual friends that I know or interact with online and I call it work as an excuse to take a break from
nonstop family time.” Also loving the break from family time are Mary Cressler, author at Vindulge, and
her husband and pitmaster Sean Martin of Portland, Oregon. They just released their cookbook, "Fire and
Wine," and spend their days quarantined with two 9year their cookbook, "Fire and Wine," and spend their
days quarantined with two 9yearolds.

As Mary explained, “Being quarantined with three people (two of which are the 9 yearolds) can make you
a little stir crazy, so it’s nice to talk to other adults and just relax a bit. What I like the most is getting to
catch up with friends live and see how everyone is doing. It’s fun to just chit chat, talk about wine, vent a
little bit (if needed), and laugh. And seeing peoples’ faces is about as close to being in person as you can
get (there’s something comforting about seeing people talk to you live).” This weekly Virtual Happy Hour
is something I look forward to each week. I enjoy seeing friends' faces and meeting new people and
talking about wine, life and whatever else strikes our fancy.

We are lucky to live in a world with this technology available to us. And, it is an excuse for me to open up
a wine that I have been saving. This past week, my wine choice was Borgogno Cannubi Barolo 2009 from
Piemonte, Italy. With more than 10 years of age on it, the wine tasted beautifully with notes of dried
flowers, dark red berries, and earth and smooth but grippy tannins on the finish. It was a special wine to
open, in honor of my friends in Italy, and I enjoyed being able to share it with friends, although I got to
enjoy the entire bottle for myself.

April 7, 2020
Circulation 5,000

The Best Wines to Enjoy During the Spring and Summer Months

By Jacy Tropps

Flowers have started blooming and the sun is shining longer, which means spring has finally
arrived. And that also means summer is right around the corner. Discovering new wines to enjoy
when the seasons change is my favorite thing to do. Whether you prefer a medium-bodied red
or a crisp, dry white, there’s a food-friendly wine for everyone to enjoy during the spring and
summer months. Here’s a list of wines that embody the very essence of spring and summer.

Rosé de Loire. Not only is Loire Valley beautiful, it is also one of France’s most unique, wine-
making regions. Loire Valley has four key sub-regions — Nantes, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and
the Central Vineyards. One of my favorite rosés to enjoy when the flowers start to bloom is
Château Soucherie’s rosé, located in the heart of the Anjou. Exquisitely blended, the 2018
vintage is made from Groeau, Gamay, and Cab Franc varieties, it’s lightly sweet on the palate
and boasts aromas of red and black cherries and tropical fruit. You can enjoy a glass of Loire
Valley rosé anytime of day.

Mirabella Franciacorta. Mirabella is a family-operated winery located in Franciacorta, a wine
zone located in the Lombardy region that is devoted to producing traditional method sparkling
wines. Though Franciacorta’s history with wine dates back to the Middle Ages, it wasn’t until
1967 that the region was granted DOC status. Then in 1997, the wine zone was awarded the
elite DOCG status for its sparkling. Not only are Mirabella wines organic, but since 2012 all of
the energy used at the winery has been renewable, which contributes to their exceptional
winemaking. One of my favorite Mirabella’s sparkling wines is Satèn. This elegant wine is 100%
Chardonnay with light notes of exotic fruit and hints of vanilla. It’s well balanced, with no sugar
added. It beautifully pairs with seafood, cheese, fruit and fresh salads.

Loire Valley Quincy. I love Sauvignon Blanc, but I especially love drinking it during the warmer
months of the year. Located on the left bank of the Cher river sits a lesser-known appellation in
Loire Valley known as Quincy. The appellation is known for its exquisite Sauvignon Blanc
grapes. The Domaine Mardon Très Vieilles Vignes 2018 is perfect for the upcoming warmer
months because it’s bursting with aromas of white flowers and citrus grapefruit, and yet, quite
dry on the palate. Quincy charmingly pairs with goat cheeses, salads and seafood.

Sans Wine Company Riesling. A preposition meaning without, ‘sans’ is a great way to
describe the eco-friendly and natural wine brand. Sans Wines are without additives and
chemicals. Situated in Napa Valley, Sans Wine Company goes “beyond organic” with their
vegan canned natural wines. With nothing added or removed during the fermentation and aging

process, Sans offers many varieties, including one of my favorites, riesling. All seven varieties
are packaged in fully recyclable aluminum cans, making a significantly lower carbon footprint, as
well as easier to bring along to the pool! Sans Riesling is drier than your typical Riesling so it
doesn’t overpower your lighter dishes.
Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto. Young and crisp, Bardolino Chiaretto wines are light in
alcohol, which makes them great for enjoying during the spring and summer months. Produced
in the surrounding areas of Lake Garda, Chiaretto is blended with Corvina and Rondinella
grapes. Their aromas are reminiscent of fresh raspberry, blueberry, and black cherry, with hints
of spice. With its floral bouquet and light citrus notes, chiaretto rosé is a great accompaniment to
just about any type of food. Easy to drink, a great one to try is Le Fraghe “Ròdon”
Jordan Winery Chardonnay. The Jordan Winery, a family-owned winery, is situated in the
Alexander Valley of Sonoma County. The Jordan 2018 Russian River Valley (will be released
on May 1st) is produced on the east side of the Russian River in Sonoma County. The unique
gravel deposits found in the soils help give its elegance and minerality. Not your typical
California chardonnay, Jordan Chardonnay is more reminiscent of a European-style version. Its
balance and acidity make it pair well with a wide range of foods, including delectable cheeses,
salmon, grilled chicken and pastas with cream sauce.
Bodegas LAN Tempranillo.

Red wines can just as easily be enjoyed during the warmer months, especially for those of us
that enjoy grilling our meals. Tempranillo is the dominant grape found in Spain and it’s
extremely versatile. Established in 1972, Bodegas LAN wines are an excellent reflection of the
land. The name LAN comprises the initials of the three provinces that make up the D.O.Ca.
Rioja: Logroño (now La Rioja), Álava and Navarra. The Viña Lanciano Reserva is bright cherry
red with predominant notes of blackberry and black current and hints of violets. And the tannins
are pleasantly sweet on the palate. Known for its strong structure, a tempranillo not only pairs
well with a grilled steak, it also pairs well with anything you want to throw on the grill, including
skewered vegetables, bbq chicken, and spicy sausages.

April 9, 2020
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By James TheWineGuy

April 10, 2020
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The World in Your Wine Glass: 5 Sensational Sips from Spain

By: The Black Dress Traveler

The COVID-19 pandemic may have put the kibosh on travel, but don’t let it stifle your
wanderlust. Cocooned in my Manhattan living room, wine helps me to maintain a connection to
the soul and soil of places that I love and to get acquainted with places I’ve yet to explore. Spain
holds a special place in my heart. I studied in Barcelona and Toledo and those two years
abroad changed my life in countless ways. From home-cooked meals lovingly prepared by my
host family to tipsy tapas crawls with friends, Spain was my true introduction to the culinary and
cultural importance of wine. During this time of social distancing, take your palate on an
adventure to España. Stay safe, stay home, sip the world!

Baron de Ley Varietales Tempranillo Rioja 2017 ($11)
This charmer from Rioja has round and rich red fruit flavors that are balanced by a hint of spice
and earth. Juicy with great acidity and a long finish, this is a lovely wine at a fantastic price.

Bodegas LAN "Culmen" Reserva Rioja 2011 ($69)
Ready to splurge? Yes, Culmen is on the pricier side, but this special wine is worth it. First
produced in 1994, the Latin name Culmen was chosen to signal that this wine is a culmination
of fine winemaking, a wine at the apex of authenticity and elegance. A blend of 88% Tempranillo
and 12% Graciano from a single parcel of old vines that are 40-60 years old, Culmen Reserva
2011 was aged for 26 months in new French oak barrels yet retains an impressive freshness
and vitality. Constantly evolving in the glass, Culmen takes your palate on a journey. Sultry red
and black fruit flavors and accents of spice, licorice, earth, and smoke make Culmen a complete
and captivating wine experience.

Harveys Bristol Cream Solera Sherry ($17)
Although Harveys Bristol Cream has been around since 1882 and is the best-selling Sherry in
the world, I had never tasted it until recently. Well, this oldie but goodie is quite the little
charmer. Sweet but not sticky, it has gorgeous nutty flavors along with rich flavors of figs,
honey, raisin, caramel, and toffee. A sweet ending to a day of social distancing!

April 13, 2020
Circulation 1,629

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By @thespanishtheguy

Palate: Medium tannin, medium acidity, medium+ flavors reflecting the nose: ripe and dried black, blue,
and red fruit. Additional notes of licorice, clove, and dried tobacco. On the long finish there’s a whisper of
oxidation – a richness providing the perfect foil for the fruit.

Pork Chop and Rice
Dinner wasn’t fancy but we were grateful to sit together and enjoy a meal.
Pairing: These days our meals are driven more by what’s available at the market than by what we’re craving.
Last night’s meal was a humble, boneless pork chop, pan-seared and served with herbed jasmine rice. Not
fancy. But it didn’t stop us from enjoying the wine.

That said, I’m glad I used the Coravin to pour just enough Culmen for the tasting and then dinner. I look
forward to the day when I can pour the rest of the bottle alongside a perfectly pan-seared duck breast
seasoned with Asian spices. And of course there will be potatoes roasted in duck fat. I can almost taste it .
..

The Last Word

Gratitude.

Thanks to wine friends near and far, who bolstered my spirits with their presence. To Bodegas LAN for
making such a beautiful wine and sharing it with us. To Stef and the others at Gregory + Vine, for bringing
us all together.

I leave you with this quote from Bodegas LAN, describing their suggested pairings for the 2011 Culmen
Reserva:

Ideal for enjoying after a long meal with extended conversation.

Couldn’t have said it better. Stay safe and sane, my friends. We’re all in this together.

Cheers, Santé, Salúd!

, 2020
Circulation 1,2 0

Making New Friends in Rioja

he past year, for too many reasons to consider, was nearly devoid of any wine writing. With the goal of
turning that around in 2020, I’m going to recap a few events from last year, and then climb up the ladder
for another dive into the deep pool that is the world of wine. Cheers!

Most wineries, except for the behemoths that are proud of their size and strength, want you to believe that
they are committed more to quality than quantity. They’ll say it to anybody who listens, and keep saying it
just in case somebody within shouting distance didn’t get the message. Unfortunately, not all of them are
honest. Well, maybe not objective or realistic is a better way to put it. Of course, there are too many
smaller wineries that say this but only get the quantity part of the equation right.

Bodegas LAN from Rioja is actually one of those wineries that tells the truth and backs it up. Their
commitment to quality is deliberate, consistent, and can be found in every wine they produce.

A few months back I had the chance to taste their wines at Bellota in San Francsico with several other
wine writers. We were hosted by Enrique Abiega, CEO of Bodegas LAN, and Trinidad Villegas, the
winery’s director for USA exports. The event was organized by Gregory + Vine, and hosted by Trish
Heywood, their managing director.
We learned quite a bit about LAN (the name is an acronym representing the three provinces of the Rioja
DOCa: Logroño, Álava, and Navarra), its history, current organic farming practices, and a great deal
about their winemaking. For these matters and all things LAN, head over to www.bodegaslan.com and
take a closer look at what makes this winery worth watching.
While so much of what we heard that afternoon was indeed interesting, the real story, of course, was in
the glasses in front of us. And what became clear, rather quickly, was that these wines played well above
their price points. Ridiculously so in a few instances. Not all wines show their best in moments like this, for
a seemingly infinite number of reasons. But the LAN selections that afternoon were singing for us.

We were greeted at the door with a cool glass of white wine from one of LAN’s recent acquisitions in
Rias Baixas in northwestern Spain. Their Santiago Ruiz “O Rosal” albarino was a welcome start to the
event. Aromatic, crisp and clean, with mouth-watering acid, and lots of citrus flavors, and just a bit of a
minerally finish. 13% abv SRP $20

The meal opened with a group of tapas, including this bright salad of heirloom tomatoes, stonefruit,
cucumber, migas, jimmy nardellos, and topped with shavings of six-month-old manchego cheese.

Along with the salad we enjoyed dishes of ethereal patatas bravas — crispy Kennebec potatoes, chipotle
bravas salsa, and smoky aioli.

The raciones, or main dishes, of the tasting lunch, gave us a mushroom paella, with autumn squash,
broccoli di ciccio, sunchokes, chesntnuts, pickled red onions, and pomegranate. Guests also enjoyed a
chuleton, a wood-grilled, dry-aged Flannery beef steak, with Basque tximitxurri, bone marrow holandesa,
and shallot butter. The delicious food at Bellota made focusing on the wines that much more challenging.
The heart of the afternoon, of course, was the wine. Not a bad sip to be had, and more than a few
surprises. Here are my brief tasting notes, in order.

LAN D12 2015: On the nose obvious notes of American and French oak, and plenty for red and black
fruit. Velvety mouthfeel carrying complex flavors and fine, mouth-coating tannins and plenty of bright acid.
100% tempranillo. SRP $18 14% abv

LAN D12 2016: A cooler vintage than the preceding year, giving the wine a tight concentration, and a
mostly muted nose. Similar profile to the ’15 but definitely needs more time in the bottle. Both of these
wines were spectacular values. Most guests figured they retailed at twice the price. 100% tempranillo.
SRP $18. 13.5% abv

Viña Lanciano reserva 2012: This wine is only produced in stellar vintages. In this line, the next one, still
unreleased, will be the 2015. There are bright red cherry aromas, and a mild whiff of oak. Loads of
mouth-watering acid, soft tannins, and a long lingering finish. Another great value. 90% tempranillo, 8%
graciano, 2% mazuelo. SRP $25. 13.5% abv

LAN Edición Limitada 2013: More bright red fruit on the nose and in the mouth. I detected hints of what I
thought was cedar but was told that this wine was aged in a blend of new French oak and some Russian
oak. On the palate it is all about the fruit and the acid; balanced, complex and juicy. 82% tempranillo, 10%
mazuelo, 8% graciano. SRP $40-50. 13.5% abv

LAN Edición Limitada 2016: This wine underwent malolactic conversion in new French oak and then was
aged in the same, followed by four months in new Russian oak. Nose was tight but red and black fruit
detected. The alcohol, still integrating, was peeking around the corner a bit. On the palate you find layers
of tart, red fruit and abundant, crisp acid; again, the alcohol has its shirt slightly untucked. 85%
tempranillo, 10% graciano, 5% mazuelo. SRP $40-50. 13.5% abv

LAN Xtreme 2014: This was the first public tasting for this vintage; only 5000 bottles made (415 cases
approximately). Floral aromas dominate, with abundant red fruit and hints of vanilla. The palate is
concentrated and balanced; plenty of refreshing acid and grippy tannins. The wine is complex, with a
long, subtle finish. 100% tempranillo. Certified organic. SRP $20. 14% abv

LAN Xtreme 2015: Eight thousand bottles (660 cases approximately) produced, and now available in
USA market. Complex aromas of red fruit, vanilla, cedar, earth. Palate is all dark, dark fruit. Impressive
concentration and balance; rich mouthfeel; energetic acid. Needs more time in the bottle. Great QPR!
(quality-price ratio) 100% tempranillo. Certified organic. SRP $18. 14% abv

Both XTremes are still integrating and will benefit from a few more years someplace cool and quiet. While
one could not be blamed for diving into them immediately, patience with these bottles will be rewarded.
Terrific wines at grab-em-up prices.

Apr 22, 2020
Circulation 138,470,000

Wines Of The Week And A Whisky For Earth Day: Santa Julia Torrontés
Tardío, Aberfeldy 12 Year Single Malt Scotch And More

By Brian Freedman

Over the next couple of weeks I’ll be highlighting a handful of producers that are making serious
efforts to work in an environmentally responsible manner. My Wines of the Week today—and an
excellent Single Malt Scotch—all embody the ethos of social and environmental responsibility
that are increasingly important.
My white Wine of the Week, the Santa Julia Torrontés Tardío 2018, is produced by the largest
organic winery in Argentina…and also a leader in environmentally and socially conscientious
production.
Over the course of the past 10-plus years, Santa Julia has gotten all 754 acres of its vineyards
certified organic…no small feat given the sheer scale of land that they work with. In addition,
they have incorporated solar power into their production, have an extensive composting
program—including a full-time compost expert with a deep background in the biology of soil and
indigenous worms and how they can best be leveraged for fertilizing their vines—are
increasingly using lightweight bottles, and more.
Perhaps even more impressively, they also have initiated the Good Harvest Program, which
provides on-site, free daycare and education for their workers’ children from birth to 12 years of
age, as well as free classes for the workers themselves. The list goes on—Santa Julia is a
phenomenal example of a producer that has realized that working in ways that benefit the
environment and society is often smart business, too.

And the wines are lovely. This one, the Santa Julia Torrontés Tardío 2018, starts off in the glass
with aromas of key lime pie and lemonade that precede a palate effusive with flavors of stewed
pears, lemon-lime, warm honey, and a subtle jasmine lift on the finish that practically demands
another sip. This is a sweet wine that’s not cloying, and a perfect accompaniment to everything
from aged Gouda to vanilla ice cream to a simple slice of poundcake, which will be elevated
immeasurably when enjoyed alongside this beautiful wine.

My red Wine of the Week, the Bodegas LAN “Culmen” Rioja Reserva 2011, is the result of
sustainable viticulture with no use of chemical herbicides, indigenous plants between their rows
of grapevines (an increasingly popular practice, which not only has environmental benefits but
viticultural ones, too, helping with nitrogen balance in the soil and attracting beneficial insects
and animals), and more.

Bodegas LAN produces a wide range of wine in Rioja, and this one represents the top of their
quality pyramid, a tiny-production gem that’s only made in the best vintages and from vines as
old as 60 years. It’s a blend of 88% Tempranillo and 12% Graciano, was aged for 26 months in
French oak, and held back for a further 20 months in the bottle before being released.

It was worth the wait, and showcases amazing concentration and richness, with brambly
berries, blackberries, chocolate, espresso, and a touch of dill, and a palate of great consistency
that takes a solid half hour to open up. When it does, it’s fantastic, with a velvety texture and
crunchy tannins carrying flavors of dill-crusted lamb and smoky notes alongside blackberries,
sweet spice, and a hint of floral peppercorn, and espresso oils.

Finally, because Earth Day has the environment on everyone’s mind, a shout out to Aberfeldy,
the Bacardi-owned brand that has made it a point to do as much as they can for the increasingly
endangered bee population through their Barrels and Bees initiative, which casts a spotlight on
local beekeepers around the world. There’s a natural synergy between honey and the Aberfeldy
12 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, which emerges from the glass with distinct
honey aromas, as well as lemon blossom and a hint of sweet pears before the first sip reveals a
plush, silky texture that carries delicate waves of lemon spice cake drizzled with honey, a bit of
pistachio, especially on the gently lingering finish, and a floral note that keeps it all wonderfully
energetic.

All three of these are not just worth drinking now, as we focus on the environment (and as we’re
generally stuck in our homes, hopefully with great wines and spirits to savor), but also year-
round. They each provide quality, value, and a tremendous sense of pleasure.

Santa Julia Torrontés Tardío 2018

This starts off in the glass with aromas of key lime pie and lemonade that precede a palate
effusive with flavors of stewed pears, lemon-lime, warm honey, and a subtle jasmine lift on the
finish that practically demands another sip. SRP: $13

Bodegas LAN “Culmen” Rioja Reserva 2011

Amazing concentration and richness, with blackberries, chocolate, espresso, and a touch of dill,
and a palate of great consistency that takes a solid half hour to open up, with a plush texture
and crunchy tannins that carry flavors of dill-crusted lamb and smoky notes alongside more
brambly berries, sweet spice, a hint of floral peppercorn, and espresso oils. SRP: $65

Aberfeldy 12 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky,

This emerges from the glass with distinct honey aromas, as well as lemon blossom and a hint of
sweet pears before the first sip reveals a plush, silky texture that carries delicate waves of
lemon spice cake drizzled with honey, a bit of pistachio, especially on the gently lingering finish,
and a floral note that keeps it all wonderfully energetic. Approx. $50

April 28, 2020
Circulation 15,492

Really Rioja

By Brianne Cohen

Today we virtually travel to the la Rioja wine region of Spain. Although I have never been there, I’d love to
visit. Last fall I participated in a month of Wine Studio Twitter chats featuring the wines of Bodegas LAN in
Rioja. While we can’t engage in wine country travel at the moment….alas we can dream through the
glass.

What is Wine Studio?

#WineStudio is an online, Twitter-based educational program produced by Tina Morey, Certified
Sommelier who’s been in the food and wine industry for over twenty years. Each month a different
producer is selected, as well as a lineup of wines from their portfolio. Anyone can participate in the weekly
Twitter chats, but only a select few are chosen to receive samples to accompany the conversation.

Every Tuesday at 6pm (Pacific time), Tina hosts the group on Twitter at the WineStudio hashtag as the
group does the wine tasting together. Usually accompanying her is someone affiliated with the producer,
such as the winemaker, owner, salesperson, etc. Above all, Tina describes it as part instruction and part
wine tasting. Discussion topics include: the producer history, the grapes, tourism, terroir, regional culture,

food, etc. For each new topic Tina has consequently seen dozens of original content pieces created,
thousands of interactions via social media and millions of impressions created on our specific topic.

Meanwhile, for the Bodegas LAN edition of #WineStudio we were joined by Lyn Farmer. Lyn is a James
Beard Award-winning wine and food writer and WSET Certified Educator. He was the perfect fit to guide
us through these wines!

Rioja Wine Region: Bodegas LAN

Bodegas LAN was “born” in 1972 and is named after the initials of the three political provinces in the
DOCa Rioja wine region: Logroño (now La Rioja), Álava, and Navarra. LAN blends the best of Rioja
tradition with modern winemaking and an innovative approach to oak use. They own 20,000 barrels, so
there are a lot of oak options. Signature handling of oak includes the use of Russian oak, hybrid oak
barrels with American staves, and French oak tops and bottoms. Yes, they use Russian barrels, and they
admit it! Overall LAN has evolved into a more modern winery versus a traditionalist. They make wines of
a more international style, which helps the international market understand what you do. This helps move
bottles……which is the ultimate goal!! Check out my previous post about Bodegas LAN HERE.

Enjoy tasting notes from the wines we savored throughout the month of November.

LAN Crianza 2016 ($14 retail)
95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo. Aged for 14 months in combined American and French oak barrels
followed by 9 months in bottle before release. RED RED RED fruit notes + sweet spice + vanilla. A classic
Rioja nose. This wine stands alone, in my opinion; no food necessary.

LAN Reserva 2012 ($20 retail)
92% Tempranillo and 8% Mazuelo. 18 months in hybrid American/French barrels followed by 20 months
in bottle prior to release. Very deep red fruit plus blue fruit. I also get notes of red hots….yup I said red
hots….spicy cinnamon notes. This red is perfect for a Fall evening. Not quite a warming winter
red…..enjoying a glass of this in the Fall would be exquisite.

LAN Gran Reserva 2011 ($25 retail)
96% Tempranillo plus 4% Mazuelo and Graciano. 26 months in hybrid American/French barrels followed
by 36 months in bottle prior to release. A full-bodied and dark red, as you’d expect from a Gran Reserva.
Notes of dark red and black fruit, including cherries and blackberries. Plus a warm baking spices from the
oak treatment.

LAN D-12 2016 ($20 retail)
Vat number 12 used to the reserved for wines that stood out after fermentation for their great aromatic
intensity. D-12 is a homage to this vat. This is the 10th edition of this release. 100% Tempranillo. Aged
12 months in hybrid American/French barrels. Deep garnet color plus red fruit aromas of cranberries plus
prunes. Vanilla plus cinnamon notes.

Viña Lanciano Reserva 2012 ($30 retail)
90% Tempranillo, 8% Granciano, and 2% Mazuelo. From a selection of 30-year-old vines located in
LAN’s Viña Lanciano estate. Aging in French and Russian oak plus 20 months in bottle. Winery notes:
Elegant aromas of red fruits in liqueur and black fruits (blackberry/blackcurrant) plus spiced notes of
clove, cinnamon, and vanilla. Perfumed hints of violets.
LAN a Mano 2016 ($50 retail)
85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo. Aged in French plus Caucasian oak barrels. This is
my favorite of the bunch. Complex and layered…just how I like my reds. Bright red fruit (cherries and
plums) quickly moving into dark, ripe, black fruit, including blackberry and black currant). Tertiary notes of
chocolate and coffee, plus tobacco. All the structural elements strike a stunning balance.
LAN Xtrème Ecológico Crianza 2015 ($20 retail)
100% organic Tempranillo grapes. Aged 14 months in new French oak. From the tech sheet: LAN Xtrème
is the extreme manifestation of the LAN philosophy in terms of respect for the raw materials. Minimal
intervention from the start to preserve the essence of the terroir. No additives to the must or the wine,
except for a small quantity of Sulphur to avoid oxidation and the development of undesirable
microorganisms.

To sum up, we are all home and we are all getting a bit stir crazy. But we can still drink wine, connect with
people virtually, and dream of wine country travel in our future.



BERONIAwinemaking

Winemakers Turn to Hybrid Barrels
to Express Individual Styles

L.M. Archer

L.M. Archer is a fine wine, food, travel and lifestyle writer specializing in Bourgogne, bubbles and the business of wine. Her
works appear in numerous publications, including Meininger’s Wine Business International, Wine Business Monthly, Oregon
Wine Press, and Taste of France Magazine. She is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers, American Society of Journalists
and Authors, International Food, Wine and Travel Writers Association, and TASTE Awards Academy of Media Tastemakers.
Professional designations include Bourgogne Master Level, Champagne Master Level, and French Wine Scholar (FWS), from
the Wine Scholar Guild. Find her at www.lmarcher.com.

H O L D O N T O Y O U R barrel bung:That old axiom
about Spanish producers “always” using American
oak may no longer be true. A few pioneering
Spanish winemakers are now using hybrid barrels,
those crafted from different wood types, to age
their wines. The movement isn’t exclusive to Spain,
either. A growing number of winemakers world-
wide actually prefer hybrid barrels, too.

Trailblazers

Bodegas LAN in Rioja started its hybrid barrel
program nearly a generation ago. “About 20 years
ago, we began to try different types of oak,” said
winemaker María Barúa, who studied differences
among oak types at the Government Research
Center of La Rioja, part of the Instituto de Ciencias
de la Vid y del Vino (ICVV).

“In Rioja, the barrels that were traditionally
used were mainly American oak. We began to test
with the French oak to see the differences, and
we considered working with barrels that would
combine these two types of oak. This way, the wine
could be nourished by the qualities that each type
of oak provides, developing a wine with different
personality,” Barúa said.

Barúa discovered that American oak staves from
the Appalachian forests of Ohio and Missouri offer
“intense” aromas of coconut and vanilla while
French oak heads from different forests in central
France (Allier, Troncáis, Jupille and Blois) yield
more aromatic complexity, with notes of black
pepper, clove and cinnamon, as well as touches of
menthol, smoke and cocoa.

26 May 2020 WBM

Winemakers Turn to Hybrid Barrels to Express Individual Styles

Using French oak for the barrel heads also offers more tannins, resulting Calleja admits some of his coopers thought his idea was “odd,” at first.
in greater structure on the palate. “With the combination of the two oaks, Experimentation, however, revealed that using American oak staves with
we give more complexity and structure to the wine while maintaining the French oak heads produced wines expressive of the “Beronia style”: smooth
respect for the fruit,” Barúa said. “The use of hybrid casks started with the and sweet with body and reserve.
LAN Crianza, and it has now been extended also to the LAN Reserva.”
Tradition
LAN isn’t the only producer with a hybrid barrel program in Rioja. “Back
in the 1990s, we were looking to get much better integration of French and Other hybrid barrel programs from around the world reflect cultural tradi-
American oak into Beronia wines during the aging process,” said winemaker tions. Marco Tebaldi of Tebaldi Group in Verona, Italy uses hybrid barrels
Matías Calleja of González-Byass’ Beronia Rioja in Ollauri. “I lighted on the sourced from cherry and chestnut. It’s a concept born from the Sicilian tradi-
idea that if we could combine both oaks in one barrel, we might produce tion of wine-aging that became the basis for Marsala DOC liqueur. Cherry
wines with the best of both: the smooth vanilla tannins from the U.S. oak, wood yields strong aromas while chestnut—a typical wood from the Etna
blended with the spicy, savoriness of the French oak.”
volcanic area—proves aromatic,
hard and elastic.

The Veronese families Cristoforetti
and Delibori of Vigneti Villabella
reintroduced cherry wood barrels in
2001 as an homage to local tradition.
“Cherry trees are part of the land-
scape of [the] Verona region,” said
winemaker Edoardo Lessio, “There-
fore, cherry wood was widely used
in the past.” The slightly aromatic
cherry wood enhances the typical
fruity flavor of the region’s native
Corvina grape variety. “Our barrels
are partially made of oak [the front
and back part], just for a matter of
resistance,” he said. “The rest is made
of cherry wood. The porosity of the
cherry wood helps the polymeriza-
tion of the tannins.”

Others cite customers as the
impetus behind their hybrid program.
In the United States, Duane Wall and
Jean Jacques Nadalié, partners and
founders of Tonnellerie Française
(now Nadalié USA) in Calistoga,
Calif., tried hybrids in the 1980s after
receiving “multiple requests” from
winemakers.

“If we have a winemaker that wants
to try something new, and we can
produce it within our production
process, then we’re happy to do it…
it’s all about listening to them and
being open to innovation,” said Mark
Evich, a regional sales manager for
the company.

28 May 2020 WBM

Winemakers Turn to Hybrid Barrels to Express Individual Styles

Typicity and Integration In Italy, Villabella pays about 30 percent more for its hybrids, which the
winery orders from Faßbinderei Klaus Pauscha & Partner GmbH in Austria.
Hybrid barrels offer other benefits as well. “We chose these barrels because Marco Tebaldi also pays more for his Marsalbotti-sourced barrels from Sicily,
it allows us to keep the typicity of the grape varieties and keep the quality chiefly due to unique construction issues: different woods bend at different
of our terroir,” said Vincent Guillemot of Domaine Pierre Guillemot in temperatures over fire, therefore varying assembly times. In the end, Tebaldi
Savigny-lès-Beaune, France. Guillemot uses hybrid acacia and oak barrels reports, his hybrid barrel costs about 320 HT ($357 U.S.), plus shipment costs.
for short to medium aging times (between 10 and 12 months). He finds Order fulfillment typically takes 30 days, plus shipment time.
the acacia retains freshness and imparts sweetness while oak provides more
depth and complexity to the wines. For Nadalié, prices are mixed. “Cost depends on the combination of
oak choices and regions of the sourced oak,” said Evich. A standard 225 L
“I believe we get much better integration in the wines when they have been barrel with an American or Hungarian oak body and French oak head runs
aged in mixed oak barrels,” Calleja said. “We avoid the shock of having to between $600 and $700 while a French oak body with either American oak
blend two separate wines post-aging in separate woods. It’s not a matter of or Hungarian oak heads ranges from $800 to $900. “Since we hand-craft
speeding up the process, [but] more about giving the wine an opportunity to our hybrid barrels at our cooperage in Calistoga, where our American and
meld and blend, in both oak styles, in one barrel.” Eastern European oak barrels are also produced, there is no special lead time
for making [hybrids],” Evich said.
Cost
LAN orders require careful planning and choreography with a broad range
For Guillemot, hybrids also prove economical. “The cost of a hybrid barrel of coopers. “For example,” said Barúa,”We are now thinking what barrels we
is 515 HT ($575 U.S.), against 635 HT ($709 U.S.) for 100 percent oak. For are going to need for next year since, after the malolactic fermentation, the
us, it is very good value for the money.” Guillemot orders his new barrels wines will be moved to barrels to carry out their corresponding aging process.”
one week before harvest, but instructs his cooper, Tonnellerie Fouailly in
Ladoix Serrigny, to toast during winemaking, which allows for adaptions to Ultimately, it’s not the cost that matters for Barúa and her team. “Hybrid
the wine and its vintage. casks are cheaper than the French oak barrels but more expensive than
the American oak barrels,” she said. “It’s mainly because of the cutting
At Beronia, costs run a bit higher. “The cost of mixed oak barrels is around system, where you get more staves from the American than from the
15 percent more than the U.S. barrels in general,” said Calleja, who works French. Apart from that, we are not looking at the cost when selecting the
with a broad range of coopers. “Order times are about the same—we have oaks. We look at the quality, at the style of wine we want after being aged
been using them for so long now that when we replace barrels, the coopers in this type of barrel.” WBM
are already prepared.”

30 May 2020 WBM