Travel Life Magazine - Spring 2017

SPACE COAST OFFICE OF TOURISM PHOTO BY DIANE SLAWYCH

Ken Cameron commanded Atlantis on STS-74, NASA’s second SPACE COAST OFFICE OF TOURISM PHOTO BY DIANE SLAWYCH
Space Shuttle mission to rendezvous and dock with the Russian
Space Station Mir. He shared some of his stories during my
“lunch with an astronaut” ($29.99 adults, $15.99 kids 3 to 11).
Later, he answered questions and posed for photos.

Taking a cue from astronauts who push the limits, I go beyond what After two days on the Space Coast, which includes a trip to Space
I think I can reasonably squeeze into one day and attempt to visit and View Park, where we see bronze handprints of many astronauts, and
experience every remaining attraction before closing time. I watch the excellent American Space Museum nearby, my brain is swimming
the excellent 3D IMAX film Journey to Space; climb into a Gemini with trivia. Did you know astronauts don’t wear shoes in space… or
spacecraft so cramped you can’t even stretch your legs (and to think that a space shuttle has over 2.5 million parts?
Frank Boman and Jim Lovell made 206 orbits over 14 days like this!);
and learn about the next generation of space exploration in the This is the place to come for novel souvenirs, from astronaut ice cream
Journey to Mars exhibit. (a vacuum-dried treat) to the space pen that writes underwater and
upside down (it will come in handy for your next space flight).
In between all the man-made attractions there is wildlife to be seen,
including on the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge. On the bus Space exploration may be serious business, but it’s not without a hint
tour (included with admission), which passes the Vehicle Assembly of humour—whether it’s the T-shirt with a NASA logo and the words:
Building (one of the largest enclosed spaces on Earth), an operational “I need my space,” to the region’s area code, which makes you want to
launch pad, and a stop to view the largest rocket ever flown—Saturn V— shout “lift off” after you press the numbers: 3-2-1!
we see several birds and two alligators.

IF YOU GO Rocket launches happen regularly at the Kennedy Space Center and Cape Canaveral
Air Force Station. It’s worth checking ahead to see if one coincides with your visit.
For more information, visit SpaceCoastLaunches.com or VisitSpaceCoast.com

TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 49

SIGNS OF

SPRING

Each spring, aerial views of the Netherlands reveal kilometres of fields painted
in a rainbow of hues by spring bulbs, like tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more.
This is the epicentre of the bulb industry—93 per cent of the world's bulbs come
from here. Over seven million are planted at The Keukenhof (keukenhof.nl/en/), a
magical garden in Lisse. Here in Canada, you can stroll tulip fields at the Bloom Tulip
Festival in Abbotsford, B.C. (abbotsfordtulipfestival.ca). Bulbs are also celebrated
at Ottawa's Canadian Tulip Festival (tulipfestival.ca).

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 50

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TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 51

DISCOVERIES
GREENLAND

THE SOUND KAYAKING THROUGH EAST
GREENLAND’S SCORESBY
OF SILENCE SOUND OFFERS UP PURE
ARCTIC ADVENTURE

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DOUG WALLACE

With the first sighting of rocky shoreline through the plane land of the Greenlanders—the largest island in the world. From
windows came the sounds of a dozen cameras being switched the tiny airport of Constable Point, we walked to a flotilla of Zodiac
on. What looked like ships were actually icebergs. I could sense boats that swept us out to the Ocean Nova for a Quark Expeditions
my seatmate itching to get the shot. “Please! Lean in,” I said. East Greenland cruise, where I would kayak the ice-filled waters
Passengers checked their watches every minute, drinking in the of the Scoresby Sound fjords for 12 extraordinary days.
bird’s-eye view, eager to take their first step on Kalaallit Nunaat—

KAYAKING THE WATERS OF GOOSE FJORD, NEAR THE MAGGA DAN GLACIER

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 52

DISCOVERIES
GREENLAND

FLOATING IN A COCKTAIL OF ICE

GETTING OUR BEARINGS

Arctic expedition travel is the ultimate a hawk from the first paddle stroke, happy KAYAK GUIDE
adventure, an experience more than a to have the supervision of Scott Caspell, SCOTT CASPELL
vacation, and one you can barely believe a very experienced polar-region kayak
is real at points. “Greenland has a long guide from Ottawa. When I caught sight THE SYDKAP AREA AT IMMIKKEERTIKAJIK
history of inhabitation and when you see of a seal swimming just off to my left,
what’s come before you, it makes you feel obviously trying to ditch us, I knew this ICEBERG WORKS OF ART IN NORTHWEST FJORD
tiny in space and time,” said expedition was going to be a great week.
leader Hadleigh Measham, summing up TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 53
the draw of the region. “It has a special A safety zodiac driver attended each kayak
beauty—a scale and ruggedness to it— session, ferrying us to and from these
that is addictive.” mini adventures, kayaks in tow. The drivers
hovered just far enough away to make
I knew what he was talking about, having us feel alone in the icescape. The logistics
been on an Antarctic expedition four of getting nine kayaks off the ship and
years earlier. It was there that I saw how into the water 11 times in six days were
much fun the sea kayakers were having, considerable, involving many very patient
almost like a vacation within a vacation. people, particularly Scott. Safety was
I promised myself that if the opportunity always the top priority, and it showed.
ever arose again, I would learn how to
kayak and get in on that excitement. And The Ocean Nova is very nimble and
while paddling in Toronto Harbour is fun efficient, able to reach places larger ships
and all, nothing could have prepared me can’t, yet still comfortable enough to
for the breathtaking experience I was pamper with snug cabins and fine dining.
about to have. Informal presentations and end-of-day
briefings by staff members and onboard
For one thing, the variety of kayaking experts filled us in with all the back
conditions in the different bays and fjords story—flora, fauna, history and geology—
and the experiences that went with them and brought everyone together in the
was amazing: hugging a rocky shoreline panoramic lounge. The top deck made for
one day, digging our way through ice the picture-perfect Northern Lights viewing
next, paddling past glacial faces and blue more than a few times during our trip:
icebergs, bobbing along in “bergy bits,” an event well worth staying up late for.
mist, fog, sunshine, the works. As I was
the relative newbie, I was watched like

DISCOVERIES
GREENLAND

AT ONE WITH ROCK FORMATIONS ALONG THE SHORELINE AT ESKIMO BAY
LAND AND SEA

Happily, the wildlife sightings continued. Before an afternoon
paddle in Eskimo Bay, while we were still in the Zodiac, we
suddenly spotted two muskoxen in full gallop quite close
to shore. They stopped abruptly when they spotted us; one
retreated while the other stared for several minutes before
trotting off. It was a moment that took awhile to sink in. What
just happened? We carried on, got in our kayaks and poked
around between the rocks along the shoreline seeing where
the sea bed had erupted and been pushed up, sediment layers
settling in crazy formations.

The next afternoon in Flyer Fjord, a veritable iceberg graveyard,
we had to kayak single file through the ice, crunching and
cracking, getting stuck, getting free, getting stuck again. So
noisy! We stopped in open water for a few minutes to take it all
in, bergs calving like thunderclaps, no wind, no birds, no fog,
just us.

More ice was in store the next day as our kayaks hugged the
shore of Little Island, before finding shelter near the shore
excursion landing site in a bay chock-a-block with brash ice.
It was like we were floating around in a giant cocktail.

Following our sessions in the water, we often caught up with
the rest of the passengers who had gone ashore, taking a
short hike to get the lay of the land, careful to stay behind
Scott’s rifle—this was polar bear country, after all. On a couple
of occasions, we wandered through untouched ruins of
indigenous settlements, most used by more than one culture
over the centuries. We found hand tools made out of bone
and actual human graves. Meat caches were made evident by
small piles of lichen-covered stones; decades-old wooden fox
traps still sat atop hillside rocks. If only the rocks could talk.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 54

A SHORE EXCURSION AT HARE FJORD

BREAKING NEW ICE GOOSEFJORD

A couple of days later, the Ocean Nova captain impressed even himself, taking WALKING ALONG THE CONSTABLE POINT SHORELINE IMAGE BY J.S. COBMAN
us on an insanely wonderful sail through uncharted waters into ice-filled Goose
Fjord, home of the Magga Dan Glacier. The ice cracked and calved, falling into WHEN YOU GO
the bay in slow motion. The crew was incredibly excited to get so close to the
glacier given the amount of ice in the fjord. This was the kind of thing that turns Quark Expeditions (QuarkExpeditions.com) has three
a trip into an expedition: taking what you’re faced with and running with it. different itineraries that take you into the fjords of
East Greenland, with six departures August through
Afterward and in more open water, there were Zodiac cruises, and more September, from 10 to 14 days. Kayak groups paddle
kayaking, as my group set out to weave through mini icebergs under blue multiple times per voyage, weather permitting.
skies in the late afternoon sun. Scott blew soap bubbles, part of his onboard
kit for testing the direction of the wind, but really more for fun, I thought. We SCORESBY THE MAN
played baseball with our paddles, collecting snow off the bobbing ice to make
snowballs. Before heading back to the ship, we took a few moments to let the English explorer William Scoresby (1789 to 1857) always
environment imprint itself on our memories. “It’s deafening silence,” Hadleigh professed to have named Greenland’s Scoresby Sound
said later on. “It’s terrifyingly loud in how quiet it is.” fjord system after his father, a successful whaler who
invented the barrel crow’s nest for ships. Scoresby
As we neared the end of the expedition, the strong sense of accomplishment the younger was hooked on expedition life very early,
amongst fellow passengers was almost palpable. There were big smiles all being only 10 when he stowed away on his father’s
around. “Our guests all have different objectives for travelling here,” said ship while it was docked in Whitby, England. (He had
Hadleigh. “They might like hiking or want to see the Northern Lights, or a bear; pretended he lost his cap onboard, then snuck back
something in particular has grabbed them. But everyone walks away from to retrieve it.) Discovered upon reaching the Shetland
Greenland feeling as though they’ve achieved the same goal. Again, it’s that tiny Islands, the boy was put ashore, only to then hire a local
feeling—everyone goes away feeling that. That’s what I enjoy about bringing boatman to chase after the ship. Thus began Scoresby’s
people here.” first journey to the Arctic. He was an apprentice of his
father’s at 13, spending every summer thereafter sailing
ONE LAST PHOTO OP to the Arctic, before taking command of the ship at
21. Scoresby maintained a lifelong interest in science,
A polar bear was spotted on the morning of our last full day of Scoresby Sound theology and geography, surveying and charting 400
adventure, in Viking Bay, making everyone eager for more of the same. We had miles of Greenland’s east coast.
a slow and steady kayak along a dirty glacier face, looking for arctic hares, but
seeing only black guillemots diving for their lunch and an iceberg that looked TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 55
like a whale. The waterfalls we spotted springing out of the rock face had carved
deep gullies over time, some not reaching the open water, but disappearing EXPLORER WILLIAM SCORESBY, SKETCHED BY J. S. COBMAN
into the moraine, making more noise than seemed reasonable.

In the afternoon, we were out again watching for bears along the quiet eastern
coastline of Viking Bay, before landing on a small island made out of octagonal
basalt columns, where we joined the other passengers for a chat on the rocks
and one very large group shot. My gloves were wet and my hands cold, but
they warmed up considerably when the Irish whisky came out for a toast to
an incredible journey. Measham was right about the addiction: I was—and am
still—hooked. The only bear I saw was a sun-bleached bear skull, but he looks
good in my pictures all the same.

DISCOVERIES
SOUTH AFRICA

The Big Three

A South African journey through Johannesburg,
Cape Town and Durban

BY JESSICA PADYKULA

Having never been to South Africa and not knowing much about the country,
aside from its complicated history, I wasn’t sure what to expect stepping off
my 15-hour flight from Toronto to Johannesburg. Little did I know I was about
to discover a nation so diverse in its offerings, I would be scrambling to cross
everything off my must-do list.

From the golden-hued beaches of Durban to the epic views over Cape Town
from Table Mountain, South Africa is a destination with something to offer
every type of traveller. Whether I was sipping craft beer in Cape Town, walking
kilometres of golden sand in Durban, gallery-hopping in Johannesburg or hot
air ballooning high above the Magalies River Valley, it became increasingly
evident that much of South Africa’s charm lies in its ability to keep you
guessing—and coming back for more. Follow this guide through the three
biggest cities in South Africa to come up with your own list of must-dos.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 56 PHOTO BY SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM

JOHANNESBURG

The second largest city in Africa is also one of Art lovers will want to seek out the aptly About an hour north of Johannesburg you’ll
its greenest, with over 10 million trees dotting named Art Strip, home to a host of galleries, find the Magalies River Valley, one of the best
the city, giving it a forest-like feel despite the biggest concentration of which is situated areas to go hot air ballooning in South Africa.
the urban setting. The vibrant city continues along and around the north-south concourse Admittedly apprehensive about floating some
to experience a resurgence following its of Jan Smuts Avenue. Start with Everard Read 5,000 feet in the air, the experience turned
tumultuous past, quickly becoming an integral Gallery, South Africa’s oldest commercial out to be an immensely relaxing one. There’s
part of an itinerary, rather than a necessary art gallery, established in 1913. Nearby, something almost hypnotic about watching
stopover en route to or returning from a safari. contemporary gallery CIRCA is considered the giant, vibrantly hued balloons inflate as
to be an architectural landmark in the city I sip from a cup of steaming hot chocolate
A visit to Nelson Mandela Square is a relaxing thanks to its unique curved design featuring while the sun just starts to make its presence
way to spend an afternoon. The first thing you’ll a series of narrow, anodized aluminum posts known. Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safari, in
notice is the imposing, six-metre tall statue of that follow a winding path around the gallery. operation since 1981, is one of the best-known
Nelson Mandela created by local artists Jacob Goodman Gallery was established in 1966 companies, taking guests for one-hour balloon
Maponyane and Kobus Hattingh, unveiled in amidst apartheid and still strives to feature safaris over a patchwork of undulating shades
2004 to coincide with a decade of democracy artists who create thought-provoking works. of green below. As the balloon ebbs and flows,
in South Africa. The square itself, a European- Make a stop at bright and welcoming Gallery we spot a family of giraffes and then a herd of
style piazza, is filled with sidewalk cafés, Momo to see works in a variety of genres, from impalas loping gently by, far below.
restaurants and almost 100 shops. Stop for a sculpture to photography.
glass of South African wine and people-watch TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 57
from one of the patios overlooking the square.

PHOTO BY SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM

DISCOVERIES
SOUTH AFRICA

CAPE TOWN

There’s so much to see and do in Cape view, so be patient with your camera.
Town, that no matter where your travel A few minutes wait can mean getting
interests lie, there will be something that perfectly clear shot. There are over
that captures your attention. I was 350 trails, geared towards all levels of
immediately charmed. It’s hard not to hikers, that lead to the top. If you prefer
be when your first point of contact a faster route, the cable car is your best
with the city is Cape Town’s lively V&A bet. The five-minute ride on the Table
Waterfront, an historic working harbour Mountain Aerial Tramway, in operation
surrounded by shops, markets, cafés since 1929, offers 360-degree views of
and restaurants. You could easily spend the mountain on the way up. Aside from
a half a day exploring the bustling area, those photo-worthy views, the summit
but be sure to make time for both the is home to thousands of plants and
Watershed Market and the V&A Food flowers, many of which are endemic
Market. Watershed is filled with local to the area.
artisans and designers making it the
ideal place to pick up souvenirs. And A 30-minute ferry ride across Table Bay
even if you aren’t hungry when you walk from Cape Town’s waterfront gets you to
into the V&A Food Market, you’ll be hard historic Robben Island, a World Heritage
pressed not to buy at least one thing Site that began as a leper colony and
to eat. The airy space is filled with stalls eventually, from 1961 to 1991, was a
selling everything from locally made maximum-security prison for political
cheeses and gelato, to Belgian waffles, prisoners, including Nelson Mandela
empanadas and fresh-baked goods. who was incarcerated there for 18 years
of his 27-year sentence. Tours of the
Cape Town is also home to South island offer a fascinating and often
Africa’s most iconic and photographed heartbreaking look at the country’s
landmark: Table Mountain. Standing political past and many tours, including
roughly 1,085 metres above the city, it’s mine, are led by former inmates, making
hard not to be impressed with the views a trip to Robben Island even more
of the sea and city below. Clouds tend poignant.
to roll in and out, softly blanketing the

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 58 PHOTO BY SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM

DURBAN DISCOVERIES
SOUTH AFRICA
Africa’s largest port and third largest city doesn’t TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 59
often get the same attention as Cape Town
or Johannesburg, but leaving Durban off your
South Africa itinerary would mean missing
out on some of the country’s highlights, the
beaches being chief among them.

Durban’s expansive beachfront, dubbed the
“Golden Mile,” was redeveloped in time for the
2010 World Cup and the results are impressive.
Various golden sand beaches are separated
by piers and are easily accessed by a paved
walkway, making it easy to beach-hop your way
along the sand. These are some of Durban’s best
beaches for swimming, with many also ideal
for surfing. The walkway is lined with cafés,
shops and food stalls, should you want to
stop for a snack.

The rugged city is also home to the largest
population of people of Indian descent outside
of the subcontinent, a fact that becomes
evident as soon as you set foot in Victoria Street
Market. Heady smells of spices and incense
pull you in and vendors beckon you to come
and taste their wares. Custom spice blends
make for a useful souvenir for foodies. Spread
out over more than 170 stalls, the market also
features local handicrafts and clothing. Prepare
to bargain if you plan to buy.

If you want to eat like a local, make sure to
sample bunny chow (or a “bunny” to locals). The
flavourful dish is comprised of curry served in
a hollowed-out chunk of white bread that you
eat with your hands. You can find it filled with
chicken, beef or vegetables at many restaurants
and food stalls throughout the city.

Midlands Meander, an hour’s drive from
Durban, is an easy day trip from the city. The
surroundings alone, like something straight
out of the English countryside, make a visit
worthwhile, but it’s the more than 150 artisans
along the route that are the real draw. Midlands
Meander is dotted with makers and artisans
of all kinds, creating everything from furniture
and rugs, to pottery, leatherwork and
ceramics—you can often see craftsmen at
work at various shops.

Not every destination gets under your skin,
slipping in and out of your thoughts long after
your bags are unpacked. But South Africa is a
country that sticks with you, enticing you to
make a return visit, which I’m already planning.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 60

Oh, Canada! - 150
HAPPY TRAILS

When you think of trails, you probably think of tree-lined paths through the forest.
But clever tourist destinations are creating trails that lead visitors through a variety of
themed experiences—nature, food and drink, art, etc. All of them can teach you about
a place in dfifferent ways. Here are some standout "trails" in British Columbia, Quebec
and Nova Scotia.

TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 61

Oh, Canada! - 150
VANCOUVER ISLAND

GINRTOHWE
BY TARA NOLAN
THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS IN VICTORIA TOP PHOTO BY CANADASTOCK; BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO BY THE BUTCHART GARDENS; BOTTOM MIDDLE AND RIGHT PHOTOS BY TARA NOLAN
A trip around Vancouver Island reveals
a number of public garden jewels
amidst old-growth forests

You don’t need to have a green thumb to
appreciate the incredible gardens that dot
British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. These lush
landscapes benefit from a temperate climate
that puts the gardens in a growing zone that’s
much higher than the rest of the country. This
means an earlier and later growing season,
and plants that you wouldn’t think could
flourish in Canada. It’s worth exploring the
verdant rainforest, as well as a few gardens, to
gain an appreciation of what can grow here.
There are multiple stops you can choose from
on a road trip of the island. Here is a small
selection for your must-do list.

The Butchart Gardens The Gardens at HCP Abkhazi Garden
This picture-perfect garden really does (Horticulture Centre of the Pacific) In the middle of an unassuming
not necessitate an introduction, as Volunteers, staff and students all help to neighbourhood in Victoria, this heritage
it is often the very reason for visiting maintain the various themed gardens garden is a tranquil oasis. Carefully carved
Victoria. The focus here is on lively on this property with a mission to around glacial rock, the one-acre grounds
ornamentals and carrying on the legacy educate about plants and sustainability. are landscaped with Japanese maples,
of the property’s creative founder Jennie Visitors can learn about drought-tolerant rhododendrons and conifers. Created in
Butchart. The Sunken Garden, created plants, attracting pollinators, plants 1946 by Peggy Pemberton Carter (who
in an abandoned quarry, is a shifting that grow on a sunny, windy slope, married Prince Nicholas Abkhazi), the
rainbow of colour throughout the and food production. Plan to stay for land was saved in 2000 by a campaign
seasons. Stunning bulb displays in the a lunch of locally sourced ingredients that prevented a high-density townhouse
spring, and the summer-blooming roses on the patio at Charlotte & the Quail complex from destroying the grounds.
and dahlias make it hard to decide exactly (charlotteandthequail.ca) and be sure There is also a tea house where you can
when to visit. Your camera will capture to check out the only outdoor bonsai enjoy refreshments while admiring the
frame-worthy shots whenever you garden in Western Canada with its gardens. conservancy.bc.ca/featured-
happen to go. butchartgardens.com 60-odd bonsai trees on display. hcp.ca projects/abkhazi-garden/

Milner Gardens & Woodland OTOTHVEISRITGARDENS
Located in the Parksville-Qualicum Beach area, this
garden features both a woodland garden amid an Tofino Botanical Gardens: If you make your way to Tofino, this quirky garden
ancient, coastal Douglas fir forest with its indigenous is worth checking out. tbgf.org
plants, and traditional gardens with an extensive
rhododendron collection and other botanical novelties Victoria Butterfly Gardens: A great place for kids to explore!
around a heritage house that has hosted members butterflygardens.com
of the royal family. Before heading to the main house
overlooking the Strait of Georgia, meander for a bit The Cowichan Valley Lavender Labyrinth: If you enjoy the scent of lavender,
through those woods. Indoors is also worth a peek. visit the little barn for lavender-infused products. cowichanvalleylavender.com
Stay for afternoon tea at the Camellia Tea Room.
viu.ca/milnergardens WTOHSETRAEY

Kitty Coleman Woodland Gardens Albion Manor was a delightfully quirky B&B that served a delicious breakfast
At Kitty Coleman Woodland Garden, you’ll feel as and put us in walking distance of downtown Victoria. albionmanor.com
though you’ve stepped onto the set of Jurassic Park.
Towering trees, enormous ferns and lush rainforest Crown Mansion Boutique Hotel & Villas provided a relaxing villa where we
make you wonder if you’ll round a corner and discover could prepare our own meals and relax after a day of hiking gardens and
a velociraptor. Owner Bryan Zimmerman has lovingly forest trails. crownmansion.com
carved this gem out of the bush to create pathways
and water features. He’s also put together an ocean
stone labyrinth and built other structures that are
scattered throughout the property. Hopefully Bryan
is there to explain the garden to you when you visit.
woodlandgardens.ca

PHOTOS: TOP TWO BY TARA NOLAN; BOTTOM BY SARA WINTER TSTHOEPWSAAYLONG

Visit gardensbc.com for a complete directory of Explore Victoria
gardens you can visit while on Vancouver Island. It’s worth a stroll around British Columbia’s capital, from the Inner Harbour
where you can grab a fresh seafood meal to the downtown streets featuring
quaint little shops, restaurants and cafés. tourismvictoria.com

Duncan Farmer’s Market
Duncan is a quaint little town located right off the highway with a sizable
Saturday market, the perfect place to grab snacks and meals—if you plan on
cooking for yourself!
duncanfarmersmarket.ca

The Old Country Market in Coombs
I still refer to this place as “Goats on the Roof.” Head here to pick up some
snacks and fresh produce, and watch the goats munching away on the
grassy roof of the market building.
oldcountrymarket.com

Cathedral Grove
Take a walk around this ancient forest that includes 800-year-old, majestic,
endangered Douglas firs. cathedralgrove.eu

An Epicurean route
With a View

Travel the Charlevoix Flavour Trail and taste the
region’s unique terroir

BY ALISON KENT

FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU

Nestled between the Laurentian Mountains and the Saint Lawrence River, Charlevoix—a UNESCO World Biosphere
Reserve—sets the idyllic scene for a food lover’s veritable dream come true. Located about 125 kilometres north of Quebec
City, choose your path and take a self-guided tour along Charlevoix’s Flavour Trail (La Route des Saveurs Charlevoix). Prepare

to squeeze in visits to as many of the participating food and beverage artisans, producers, growers and restaurateurs as
possible (that’s about 40!) who craft and create unique-to-the-region edibles with passion, authenticity and flair. From
ciders to cheeses and free-range meats to traditionally made beers, all of this and more has collectively made Charlevoix an

irresistible culinary destination renowned the world over… and with an undeniably delicious good reason.

La Ferme Laiterie Charlevoix
For more than 65 years, the Labbé family have been milk producers,
Basque de cheesemakers and cow breeders. Speaking of the latter, the “Canadienne”
can trace its origins to cows brought from France in the 17th century that
Charlevoix were bred to endure Quebec’s harsh winter climate. All but disappearing
over the centuries in favour of alternate breeds, the Canadienne
Originally from the has recently been
reintroduced through
Basque Country, a program supported
in part by la Laiterie
Isabelle Mihura Charlevoix. As for the
Laiterie’s fine cheese
and Jean-Jacques expertise, they make
the wonderfully creamy,
Etcheberrigaray buttery-sweet Le 1608—
an aged, washed rind
became enamoured cheese made with 100
per cent “Canadienne” MILK BOTTLES AT LA LAITERIE CHARLEVOIX
with the extraordinary milk. Be sure to visit the
Cheese Economuseum and interpretation centre located near the general
beauty of Charlevoix store. It celebrates the history of dairies and cheese manufacturing in
Quebec and surrounding regions.
and settled in the

RILLETTES, MOUSSE AND PATÉ AT LA FERME BASQUE DE CHARLEVOIX village of Saint-Urbain
in 1999. Along with

their two daughters, the family business specializes in Mulard ducks and

raises them free-range in grassy fields and nearby barns. Visit the farm

and learn about traditional methods of duck breeding and raising, done

with the utmost respect for the animals. Made on-site and using time-

honoured recipes, taste from a selection of exquisite products available

to-go or for picnicking under a nearby tree. Try duck paté, rillettes, cretons,

confit, foie gras and cassoulet. lafermebasque.ca

TRAVELLIFE.CA SPRING 2017 | 64 PHOTO CREDITS: TOP BY FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU; BOTTOM TWO BY ALISON KENT

Oh, Canada! - 150
QUEBEC

Domaine de la Vallée du Bras Maison Maurice Dufour
Crafted using a selection of organic heirloom tomato varieties and tinged
a golden blush-coloured hue, Omerto is the world’s first-to-be-sold aperitif Located along a charming country road near Baie-Saint-Paul, founder Maurice
tomato wine. Named for founder Omer Miche who, in 1938, created the
original recipe in his homeland of Belgium, the recipe for Omerto remains to Dufour has been making award-winning cheeses since the 1990s. Using local
this day a closely guarded family secret. Pascal Miche pays a befitting tribute
to his great-grandfather with three unique varieties of this tomato-based whole cow’s milk or sheep’s milk (sheep are also raised here), two of his finest
elixir: Omerto Sec, with lively acidity, citrus notes and earthy aromas; Omerto
Moelleux, with subtle floral and honeyed orange notes; and Omerto Barrique cheeses include Le
Acacia, a semi-dry, cask-aged sipper with nuanced flavours akin to aged
cognac. All are perfectly food-friendly, or enjoy one slightly chilled and sipped Migneron de Charlevoix,
on its own. Visit the boutique to taste or order a glass at a restaurant in
nearby Baie-Saint-Paul. domainevb.ca a firm-yet-creamy

Fairmont Manoir Richelieu washed rind cow’s milk
Perched high atop an escarpment in the beautiful village of La Malbaie,
majestic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is an elegant chateau-style resort cheese, and Le Ciel de
featuring breathtaking views of the Saint Lawrence River. This historic property
includes an extraordinary selection of dining options, thanks in great part to Charlevoix, a fabulous
executive chef, Patrick Turcot. Inspired by the region’s rich gastronomy, Turcot
works closely with neighbouring farmers and food artisans to gather and blue-veined cow’s milk
showcase the finest in local fare on his menus.
cheese. During summer

months, tour the farm,

taste cheeses and

perhaps grab a gourmet

lunch box, available

at the boutique, to

take away or enjoy MAISON MAURICE DUFOUR

before you leave.

famillemigneron.com

Good to know
before you go

Though their products may be available to purchase year round,
some Flavour Trail artisans open their doors to visitors May through

October only. Check ahead and plot your route accordingly.

Also operating May through October, the Train de Charlevoix offers
a carefree and scenic way to travel alongside the St. Lawrence River
from Quebec City to La Malbaie. It passes through Baie-Saint-Paul

en route. traindecharlevoix.com

BRAISED KID CANNELLONI AT FAIRMONT MANOIR RICHELIEU If driving north from Quebec City, be sure to build in extra time,
allowing the opportunity to take in dramatic Montmorency Falls—
This passion for his and perhaps an afternoon side trip to Île d’Orléans—and explore

adopted Charlevoix any or all of the many coastal towns and villages along the way.

community and If you don’t have a car or would rather not drive, Fairmont Le
Manoir Richelieu will make all arrangements necessary to create
commitment to a customized Flavour Trail tour for you, including taking care of

promoting the best transportation, a guide, reservations and food tastings.

in regional cuisine For more information, visit:
routedesaveurs.com
has earned him
charlevoixtourism.com
top-spot position
TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 65
as “President of the

CHEF PATRICK TURCOT & ISABELLE MIHURA Charlevoix Flavour
Trail.”At the hotel’s

Le Charlevoix restaurant, a seasonal appetizer dish may include braised kid

cannelloni topped with rosemary froth, along with a berry emulsion and

Omerto wine reduction. fairmont richelieu-charlevoix/

PHOTO CREDITS: TOP TWO BY ALISON KENT; BOTTOM BY FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU

Oh, Canada! - 150 A road trip around Cape Breton reveals
CAPE BRETON a pervasive, contagious, creative spirit
among the island’s residents
CREATIVE CLASS
BY TARA NOLAN
PHOTO BY DESTINATION CAPE BRETON
Perhaps it’s the long winters and utter
remoteness that ignites sparks of creativity
among those who call Cape Breton home. Or
perhaps it’s the island’s rugged beauty and
rich maritime heritage that inspires a variety
of artistic mediums to be born. Whatever it
is, Cape Breton is teeming with artists and it’s
easy to reveal them one by one as you tour the
island—many can be found along the famous
Cabot Trail.

“Cape Breton is the creative island—in every
nook and corner there is someone who can
write and compose and fiddle and make,”
says Lori Burke, the executive director of
the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design
(capebretoncraft.com). “We live in a remote
part of the world where our economy is very
much dependent on the creative industries
and tourism,” she adds.

This organization, in the heart of Sydney,
Nova Scotia, aims to nurture both established
and nascent artists with a vast array of
programming and services. It’s also the perfect
launch point of the Artisan Trail that’s been
established to lead visitors to all the wonderful
galleries and studios that ring the island, which
in and of itself is worth seeing.

The day I visit the Cape Breton Centre for
Craft & Design, I marvel at the silver jewellery
with colourful gemstones on display for the
current exhibit. German-born designer Diana
Morrissey of Gemfan (gem-fan.com) is there
and explains the cuttlefish technique that
inspired her and how she has settled into the
artistic community.

THE INSIDE OF PROUD TO BE HOOKERS HEADQUARTERS. LINDA WRIGHT’S COLOURFUL POTTERY. PHOTO BY TARA NOLAN END GRAINS WAITING TO BE MADE INTO LARCHWOOD BOARDS.
PHOTO BY TARA NOLAN
PHOTOTBRYATAVREALNLOLIFANE.CA SPRING 2017 | 66

After a long drive through the woods to Big Hill Pottery (bighillretreat.com), potter Linda Oh, Canada! - 150
Wright invites us into her converted barn for coffee (out of her handmade cerulean CAPE BRETON
mugs). As we sip, she weighs out some clay and demonstrates how to “throw” a bowl,
which looks effortless in the hands of the artist, but proves challenging when my During my visit, a young man named Fabian creates
amateur hands are given the opportunity to try. an intricate jellyfish from several colours of glass.

Sarah Beck welcomes us into her studio and store
called Wildfire Pottery (wildfirepottery.ca), where
she buffs up some of the puffins she’s made using

WILLIAM D. ROACH CARVING IN HIS WORKSHOP. PHOTO BY TARA NOLAN GROOVY GOAT FARM & SOAP COMPANY. PHOTO BY TARA NOLAN

the Japanese raku technique. Meanwhile, her
husband, musician Paul Cranford, picks up his
violin and plays some Cape Breton tunes. It’s not
uncommon to find yourself tapping your toes to
an impromptu fiddle session along the route.

And leave room in your suitcase, because it’s
likely you’ll find something that you’ll want to
take home to remember creative Cape Breton.

ONE OF DIANA MORRISSEY’S RING DESIGNS.
PHOTO BY GEMFAN

At Larchwood (larchwoodcanada.com), we A PUFFIN IN PROGRESS. PHOTO BY TARA NOLAN WHERE TO STAY
are taken through the steps that are used IN CAPE BRETON

to create the gorgeous end-grain cutting There are a number of accommodation
options, from rustic to well-appointed:
boards that have become popular among chefs because of the larch’s dense softwood • Cabot Shores (cabotshores.com) offers
cottages, yurts and geodesic domes for a
and anti-microbial properties that makes the cutting action easier on the wrists. more rustic retreat in Indian Brook.
• Island Sunset Resort (islandsunset.com)
Pine is folk artist William D. Roach’s preferred material. His Sunset Art Gallery features spacious, comfy cottages in Belle
(sunsetartgallery.ca) and collection of quirky outbuildings, that include a café and his Côte with beautiful views of Margaree
studio, are adorned with some of his work. However it’s worth going inside to see all the Harbour.
colourful, intricate carvings. The man has a real sense of humour that he applies to his • The English Country Garden Bed &
work! In his workshop, Roach patiently hand-carves a whale as he provides stories of Breakfast (capebretongarden.com) offers
his life in Chéticamp and his love for his medium. sumptuous suites and delicious breakfasts.
• For a more luxurious stay, the Keltic Lodge
The Proud to be Hookers (proudtobehookers.com) sign elicits a childish giggle as we pull (kelticlodge.ca) in Ingonish Beach, with
up and discover a building packed to the rafters with the colourful hooked rugs and wall its renowned golf courses, features newly
hangings that have made this little creative outpost famous. Sadly, rug hooking is a bit of renovated rooms.
a dying art, owner Lola LeLievre tells us. The collective used to have about 100 members,
but it’s down to about 30, mostly senior, members. TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 67

The island is seeing young people move back to set up shop. Shannon and Ryan Costelo,
for example, turned the fresh goat milk from their herd into a business called Groovy
Goat Farm & Soap Company (groovygoat.ca).

Glass Artisans (glassartisans.ca) has a rotating artist residency program that sees glass
blowers from around the world come to be inspired by the island and use the facilities.

IN6THHOETCEAVPEINTATSL

OTTAWA 2017 HAS COME UP WITH CREATIVE PROGRAMMING TO CELEBRATE
THE COUNTRY’S SESQUICENTENNIAL BIRTHDAY

BY KATHARINE FLETCHER

Hold on to your toques: the nation’s capital will rock during 2017,
Canada’s 150th birthday year. Because Ottawa residents love to
party—and proudly show off their city—visitors will win genuinely
warm welcomes while experiencing stellar events.

Excitingly, the group planning these events, Ottawa 2017, will
continue their “big” reveal throughout the year with announcements
about events, and celebrities who may be participating.

This list represents some of the diversity we’ll enjoy while Canada’s
birthday year unfolds, where one-off events are countered by week-
long extravaganzas and year-round themes.

Ottawa welcomes the world: Year-round themed events
Because Ottawa is home to many embassies, which reflect Canada’s
multicultural roots, the city will host celebrations of each country’s
national holiday. March 21 is the Greek celebration, Mexico’s Cinco
de Mayo (May 5) promises colour and dance, while India launches its
event on September 29.

JUNO WEEK LA MACHINE CANADA’S TABLE CULINARY MAGNIFICENCE OF THE Come, join the party! These
(March 27 to April 2) (July 26 to 30) EXPERIENCE (August 27) CHAUDIÈRE FALLS (late six events merely scratch the
September through November) surface of what’s planned for
The 46th annual JUNO Awards In a North American first, Savour the flavour of Canadian Ottawa, so keep visiting the Top, bottom left and bottom right photos by Ottawa 2017; bottom middle photo by Destination Canada
(junoawards.ca) celebrate La Machine–urban theatre that cuisine at an open-air dining Formerly one of the mightiest websites for Ottawa 2017
Canadian music. JUNO Week hails from Nantes, France–will table that will seat 1,000 people rapids on the Ottawa River, many (ottawa2017.ca) and Ottawa
events include JUNO Songwriters’ début in the capital. In a must– on Wellington Street. Parliament brave souls, from First Nations Tourism (ottawatourism.
Circle (hosted by music legend witness spectacle, a gigantic fire– Hill’s sensational Sound and Light to explorers, portaged around ca), which provide tons
Bruce Cockburn). During the gala breathing dragon and immense show will serve as a backdrop. the spectacular, once ferocious of information, videos
dinner and awards that take place spider will wander around Ten award-winning local chefs rapids of the Chaudière. For 2017, and more. There’s even an
Saturday April 1, iconic singer- downtown. Perhaps the spider will partner with another 10 the National Capital Region’s Ottawa 2017 app.
songwriter and activist Buffy will visit Maman, the immense representing five Canadian Algonquin heritage will be
Sainte-Marie will receive the 2017 arachnid sculpture gracing the regions to tempt your palate honoured by lighting displays
Allan Waters Humanitarian Award. plaza outside the National Gallery with fabulous fare. illuminating the dramatic falls.
Hot tip? Ottawa is celebrating of Canada…
Canadian music with a series of
concerts leading up to JUNO Week.

CANADA DAY A few accommodation options
(July 1)
Want to pamper yourself? Stay at Fairmont Château Laurier (and try their newly renovated Fairmont Gold experience). Or, experience the
Live music, street theatre, colourful, hip Alt Hotel where room rates never change. Keep the celebratory, heritage mood by staying at the Lord Elgin Hotel.
Canadian cuisine courtesy of
some of the country’s finest
chefs and stupendous fireworks
displays will celebrate our
national holiday in a big way.

TRAVELLIFE SPRING 2017 | 69