Learn to Dye & Fabric Using Shibori, Tie-Dye, Sun Printing, and more

Learn to Dye & Print

FA BR IC
Using Shibori, Tie-Dye,
Sun Printing, and more

TECHNIQUES, PROJECTS, TIPS, AND TRICKS

ELISABETH BERKAU

CONTENTS

03 FOREWORD
06 A Little Color Theory . . .

08 SUN PRINT
10 How Sun Printing Works
16 Pillows with Fern Motifs
20 Shirt with Back Appliqué

24 VEGGIE PRINT
26 How Veggie Printing Works
30 Napkins with Citrus Printing
34 Tablecloth with Multicolored Printing

38 SHIBORI
40 How the Shibori Technique Works
44 “Mini-Me” Aprons with Zigzag Stripes
48 Bed Linens with Ring Pattern

52 WOODBLOCK PRINTING
54 How Woodblock Printing Works
60 Table Runner with Border
64 Men’s Shirt with Metallic Print

08 24 38 52

68 CYANOTYPE
70 How Cyanotype Works
78 Wall Hanging with Grasses
82 Bag with Scissors Motifs

86 TIE-DYE
88 How Tie-Dyeing Works
94 Backpack with Horizontal Stripes
98 “Mini-Me” T-Shirts with Blue Spiral

102 FLOWER POUNDING

105 How Flower Pounding Works
110 Wall Decoration in Embroidery Hoops
114 Table Sets with Appliqué

118 About the Author

Acknowledgements

119 Index

68 86 5102

How Sun Printing Works

The Fabric

Almost all fabrics made of cotton, linen, or silk can be used for sun printing. Garments with up to 20%
synthetic mixture also work. I advise using smooth fabrics with small weave structures that aren’t too
thick so that you get the clearest possible outlines and images of the motifs. Old bedsheets or tablecloths
are ideal.

Before brushing with paint, the fabric should be briefly moistened under running water. Afterward,
wring out, spread out on your work surface, and smooth.

The Work Surface

The surface you use for sun printing must be smooth and nonabsorbent. Therefore, a coated plywood
board is very suitable. I often use discarded baking trays as well. They are useful because slightly absorb
heat, which helps the process. You can also work on uncoated wooden boards or strong cardboard if you
cover them with a plastic film.

Sun Print 1111

Harnessing the Power of Heat

Sun printing does not work via the sun’s UV rays but through the effect of the sun’s heat. It is, therefore,
best to choose a warm or (even better) hot summer day for the printing session. Lay the fabric, which has
been coated with paint and covered with plants, together with the work surface outside in the full sun.

Now, wait until the fabric has dried completely (up to two hours). In this drying phase, the liquid
evaporates slower under the plants than everywhere else. Then the dry sections suck out the damp color
from under the leaves. You’re intentionally getting the color to run in the fabric. This is precisely why it
must be thin enough. The result: when you remove the leaves after they are completely dry, the fabric
underneath is (almost) white. It’s like magic!

If you have not moistened the fabric before applying the paint, this process does not work as well. The
leaves will become visible, but they do not stand out as brightly and clearly, as the example below on the
right shows. However, this can also create very beautiful effects.

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What You Need:

- Large fern leaf, pressed
- 16" x 16" (40 x 40cm) white cotton

pillowcase, prewashed
- Plastic wrap the size of the pillowcase
- Low-viscosity, eggplant-colored fabric

paint
· I used KREUL Javana in Black Fabric

Paint for Light and Dark Fabrics 91961
and Marabu Fabric Paint in Raspberry
005
- Reused jam jar
- Old teaspoons
- Brush with bristles or foam tip
- Coated plywood or an old baking tray
- Rubber gloves
- Sunshine and warmth
- Iron

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Pillows with Fern Motifs

Completely natural and cool! With its unusual dark color, a pillow with a leaf motif fits into modern
interiors and sets a natural accent.

Here’s How: 2



1

1 Choose a warm summer day for this project. Cut 2 To mix the eggplant shade, take some paint from

a piece of plastic wrap to fit inside the pillowcase each of the paint jars (black and raspberry) with
and set it aside. the repurposed teaspoons. Mix with about 3½ fl oz
(103.5 mL) of water in a jam jar to make a thinned
Briefly moisten the pillowcase under running dark purple. When mixing your color, start with a
water, then wring it out. little more of the raspberry, then carefully mix in
the black little by little.
Push the plastic into the pillowcase. Spread
it out on a nonabsorbent work surface, then Using a brush, completely cover the top of the
smooth it out. The plastic separates each side of pillowcase with the thinned paint. Wear rubber
the pillowcase so you can color them one after the gloves when doing this.
other.

Sun Print 17

Sunprint 2233

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What You Need:

- Lemon or lime
- Linen napkins in blue and gray-green,

prewashed
- White paint for fabric painting or

printing
· I used KRUEL Javana Fabric Paint for

Light and Dark Fabrics in White 91953.
- Brush
- Old plate
- Sharp knife
- Small, pointed knife
- Table or flat work surface
- Paper towel
- Newspaper
- Colored paper
- Iron

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37

How the Shibori Technique Works

The Fabric

For the shibori technique, you need a white or light-colored fabric as a base, as the pattern should always
be white or natural white on the color background. Fabrics made from cotton, linen blends, or silk can be
dyed best. Synthetic fibers do not dye well. Fabrics with a synthetic mixture of up to 20% still work, as
do viscose fabrics, but the coloring turns out lighter and has a messy effect. Fabrics should be prewashed
at least once to remove any finish. Old sheets, tablecloths, shirts, blouses, and T-shirts are also ideal for
dyeing.

Folding The resulting ribbon is again folded lengthwise
in even accordion folds to create a small
To create a repeating pattern, use a sophisticated rectangular bundle of fabric.
folding technique and tie small wooden boards (or
something similar) to the fabric. I advise ironing the fold in between, especially
if you want to achieve the most accurate pattern
In the example, a piece of white linen is first laid possible.
lengthwise with even accordion folds.

Shibori 41

What You Need: - Color fixer
- 4 wooden strips, each about 1½" x 12" (3.8 x
- 53" x 78" (135 x 200cm) white cotton or
linen duvet cover, prewashed 30.5cm)
- 4 wooden strips, each about ½" x 6" (1.3
- 31" x 31" (80 x 80cm) white cotton or linen
pillowcase, prewashed x 15.2cm). For dyeing in the washing
machine, these should not be too thick; a
- Black textile dye, suitable for dyeing in the thickness of ½" (1.3cm) is quite sufficient!
washing machine - Cable ties (at least 12 pieces)
· I used simplicol Textile Dye intensive - Combination pliers
Velvet Black for 1½ lbs (20 oz) fabric - Cutting pliers
(although the bed linen weighed 1¾ lbs - Iron
[28 oz] dry)

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The Wooden Model

There are both antique and new wooden models available for this craft. Both come mostly from Asia; the
delicacy and detail of the often-elaborate motifs of the Asian models are incomparable. There are models
for borders, flat patterns, and single motifs, so you can build up a nice collection.

Use the models like stamps, bearing in mind that the motif appears as a mirror image on the fabric. The
wood from which they are carved must be very hard, and its fibers must not straighten when in contact
with the wet colors. While the Asian models are made of exotic hardwoods, often teak, pearwood was
used in Europe.

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Drucken mit Holzmodeln 5959



67

How Cyanotype Works

The Fabric

Fabrics made of cotton, linen, or their blends can be coated very well with the solvents that make them
light sensitive, as can bleached jute, hemp, ramie, wool, and silk. Synthetic fabrics do not absorb the
solutions; fabrics with mixtures of up to 20% are possible. To achieve the clearest possible images, smooth
fabrics with little weave structure should be used. The textiles must be prewashed to remove any finish.
Old bedsheets, tablecloths, or even T-shirts can be used very well.

The Chemical Solutions The Recipe

To make the substance light sensitive, two Solution I:
chemical solutions are needed, which are mixed in 120g (4.2 oz) ammonium iron (III) citrate (or
a 1:1 ratio shortly before use. ammonium ferric citrate), 16.9 fl oz (500 mL)
distilled water, and a correspondingly large
You can buy these solutions ready-made opaque bottle with wide neck. With a small
in cyanotype kits from internet mail-order spoon, pour the ammonium iron (III) citrate
companies, or you can make them yourself more into the bottle without spilling, if possible. Fill
cheaply by getting the necessary chemicals and with distilled water, close tightly, and shake
dissolving them in distilled water. Try looking in vigorously to mix and dissolve.
pharmacies or on the internet.
Solution II:
The two chemicals are considered nontoxic. 80g (2.8 oz) potassium hexacyanoferrate (or
However, they can be dangerous if handled potassium ferricyanide, or red blood liquor
improperly, such as when mixing with acids. salt), 16.9 fl oz (500 mL) distilled water, and
Please be careful when handling these substances. a correspondingly large opaque bottle with
You should wear rubber gloves and work with the wide neck. As with solution I, use a small
window open or wear a breathing mask to avoid spoon to pour the potassium hexacyanoferrate
inhaling fumes and dust. The chemicals should be (III) into the bottle without spilling any. Fill
kept out of the reach of children before and after with distilled water, close tightly, and shake
preparing the solutions. vigorously to mix and dissolve.

Opaque bottles made of brown or black plastic Note: Both solutions are kept in the
with a wide neck, like those in a lab, should be refrigerator. Mix just before brushing the
used. fabric.

Setting Up the Darkroom

Cyanotype 71

Cyanotype 777

What You Need: - Rubber gloves
- Apron
- Grasses, fresh or dried - Breathing mask (depending on how you
- 13¾" x 17¾" (35 x 45.1cm) strong white
work)
cotton fabric - Sheet of glass that fully covers your pattern
- 20½" (52.1cm)–long wooden magnetic rails - Nonabsorbent worktop, such as coated

for hanging plywood
- Solution I of green ammonium ferric citrate - Darkroom (or a room without daylight)
- Solution II of Red Blood Lye Salt - Sun or UV lamp
- Brush with bristles or foam tip
- Old glass
- Old measuring jug

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What You Need: - Apron
- Breathing mask (depending on how you
- Various scissors
- Strings of yarn in different sizes work)
- 16" x 12" (40.6 x 30.5cm) cotton pouch bag - Sheet of glass that fully covers your pattern
- Nonabsorbent worktop, such as coated
blank, prewashed
- Solution I of green ammonium ferric citrate plywood
- Solution II of Red Blood Lye Salt - Darkroom (or a room without daylight)
- Brush with bristles or foam tip - Cardboard, about the size of the bag
- Old glass - Sun or UV lamp
- Old measuring jug - Iron
- Rubber gloves

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Tie-Dyeing 9393

97

What You Need:

- White cotton T-shirt for adults and white
cotton T-shirt for children, prewashed

- Blue dye bath
· I used Marabu Easy Color Batik and
Dyeing Color in Ultramarine Blue 055

- Table salt
- Color fixer
- Cords
- Rubber bands
- Old bucket or bowel
- Newspaper
- Rubber gloves
- Scissors

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How Flower Pounding Works

The Fabric

Flower pounding works best on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric (or a mixture of the two).
Natural fibers absorb the dyes of the plants best. I find (cotton) nettle fabric ideal. Viscose and fabrics
with a small synthetic mixture of fibers can also be used, but the prints of the flowers and leaves appear
less saturated. The fabrics should be washed at least once so that they no longer have a finish on their
surface. Old bedsheets, tablecloths, or smaller fabric scraps are also very suitable.

The Pickling Bath

For the fabric to better absorb the dyes, and to
increase its durability, it should first be stained in
an alum bath. Alum, or more accurately aluminum
potassium sulfate, is available as a salt-like powder
in pharmacies or on the internet. It has astringent
and tanning properties, therefore it should not
come into contact with the mouth or eyes. Always
keep out of reach of children!

For the pickling bath, put 30g (1.1 oz) of alum
in a small bucket or old bowl, and pour 34–51 fl
oz (1–1.5 L) of boiling water over it. Stir until the
alum has dissolved. Now briefly moisten the fabric
under running water, place it in the hot alum bath,
and move it gently in the bath with a wooden
stick or spoon. The fabric should be completely
covered with liquid. If it is a larger piece, it may
be necessary to mix twice the amount of alum
bath. Leave the fabric to cool in the staining bath,
preferably overnight. Then wring out with rubber
gloves. Do not rinse! Leave it to dry.

Sometimes I stain several pieces of fabric at
once or a larger piece of fabric, and thus always
have a small stained-fabric stock that can then be
printed with flower pounding a little at a time or
quite spontaneously.

TIP: Try it first!

Flower Pounding 101505

What You Need:

- 3 embroidery hoops made of wood,
various sizes

- Natural white nettle fabric, prewashed
- Fresh pink cosmos flowers, blue

cranesbill flowers, fresh cranesbill leaves,
and single small leaves
- Old bowl or cooking spoon
- 30g (1.1 oz) alum
- Coated plywood board or plastic board
- Hammer
- Paper towel

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117

EANCreate One-of-a-Kind

Printed Pieces

Enrich your home with stunning, homemade dyes and
prints! Learn to Dye & Print Fabric Using Shibori, Tie-Dye,
and Sun Printing, and more is the ultimate beginner-friendly
guide that will show you everything you need to
accomplish a variety of fabric manipulation techniques
using natural and easy-to-find materials. With clear
guidance on sun printing, veggie printing, shibori,
woodblock printing, cyanotype, tie-dyeing, and flower
pounding, each technique features a complete overview on
how it works, plus two step-by-step projects. From pillows,
duvets, tablecloths, and napkins to bags, wall hangings,
shirts, and so much more, be inspired to recycle old
textiles and transform them into something new,
beautiful, and handmade!

• A complete beginner’s guide to
dyeing and printing fabrics

• Learn 7 fabric manipulation
techniques, from traditional to modern

• Includes technique overviews,
plus expert tips and tricks

• Features 14 step-by-step
photo-illustrated projects

$19.99 US | $24.99 CAN

ISBN: 978-1-947163-98-0
51999

9 781947 163980