Korea

Korea PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date Feb 2016 Pages 424 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here PDF © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

Korea THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte #_ North Korea p306 Gangwon-do p119 Jeju-do p231 Jeollanam-do p208 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do p182 Gyeongsangbuk-do p147 Jeollabuk-do p263 Chungcheongnam-do p276 Chungcheongbuk-do p293 Seoul p38 Around Seoul p94 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Korea . . . . . . 4 Korea Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Korea’s Top 13 . . . . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16 First Time Korea . . . . . . . 18 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Month by Month . . . . . . . 23 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Outdoor Activities . . . . . 29 Regions at a Glance . . . . 34 SEOUL . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 AROUND SEOUL . . . . 94 Gyeonggi-do . . . . . . . . . . 95 The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) & Joint Security Area (JSA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Heyri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Suwon & Around . . . . . . . 101 Anyang Art Park . . . . . . . 104 Donggureung . . . . . . . . . 104 Namhansanseong . . . . . 104 Icheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Incheongwangyeok-si . . . . . . . . 106 Incheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Yeongjongdo . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Muuido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 West Sea Islands . . . . . . . 115 Ganghwado . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 GANGWON-DO . . . . 119 Chuncheon . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Samak-san............. 125 Sokcho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Seoraksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 129 Gangneung . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pyeongchang . . . . . . . . . . 139 Gohan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Odaesan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 142 Samcheok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Wonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Chiaksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145 GYEONGSANGBUKDO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Daegu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Gyeongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Pohang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Ulleungdo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Andong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Hahoe Folk Village . . . . . . 179 Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . 180 Juwangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . 180 BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAMDO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Busan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Gajisan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 197 Geojedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Tongyeong . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Jinju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Namhaedo . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Jirisan National Park – East ....206 JEOLLANAM-DO . . . 208 Gwangju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Damyang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Unju-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Gurye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Suncheon & Around . . . . 217 Yeosu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Boseong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Gangjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Haenam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Wando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Mokpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Dadohae Haesang National Park . . . . . . . . . 229 JEJU-DO . . . . . . . . . . 231 Jeju-si . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Eastern Jeju-do . . . . . . . 241 Gimnyeong Beach . . . . . . 241 Manjang-gul . . . . . . . . . . 242 Woljeong Beach . . . . . . . 243 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD FLICKR RENAN4 / GETTY IMAGES © GANGNAM (P52), SEOUL FIDELIS SIMANJUNTAK / GETTY IMAGES © TRADITIONAL HANOK

Contents Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . . . . 243 Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri . . . . . . . . . . 244 Seongeup Folk Village . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Southern Jeju-do . . . . . 249 Seogwipo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Jungmun Resort & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Sagye-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Central Jeju . . . . . . . . . . 257 Hallasan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 257 Sangumburi . . . . . . . . . . 260 Western Jeju-do . . . . . 260 Moseulpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Inland Region . . . . . . . . . . 261 Hallim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 JEOLLABUK-DO . . . 263 Jeonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Naejangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . 269 Muju & Deogyusan National Park . . . . . . . . . 270 Gochang & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Byeonsan-bando National Park . . . . . . . . . . 273 Gunsan & Seonyudo . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 CHUNGCHEONGNAMDO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Daejeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Gyeryongsan National Park . . . . . . . . . 282 Gongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Magok-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Buyeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Boryeong & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Sapsido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Taean-haean National Marine Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 CHUNGCHEONGBUKDO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Cheongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Songnisan National Park . . . . . . . . . 298 Chungju . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 NORTH KOREA . . . 306 Pyongyang . . . . . . . . . . 308 Kaesong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Panmunjom & the DMZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Myohyangsan . . . . . . . . . . 321 Hamhung . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Wonsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Kumgangsan . . . . . . . . . . 323 Nampo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Sinchon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Paekdusan . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Chilbosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Chongjin...............326 Rajin-Sonbong . . . . . . . . 326 Understand North Korea . . . . . . . . . . 327 Survival Guide........ 335 Korea Today . . . . . . . . . . 340 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 The Korean People . . . . 363 In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . . . 377 The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 382 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 388 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 422 UNDERSTAND SURVIVAL GUIDE SPECIAL FEATURES Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . 29 The Korean People . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . 377 The Natural Environment . . . . . . . 382

Ancient & Modern The blue and red circle at the heart of the South Korean flag neatly symbolises the divided Korean Peninsula, but also the fluid mix of the ancient and the modern in the country officially called the Republic of Korea (ROK), where the vast majority of visitors will spend their time. South Korea is a dream destination – an engaging, welcoming place where the benefits of a hightech nation are balanced by a reverence for tradition and the ways of old Asia. Urban Marvel Korea might be known as the Land of the Morning Calm, but dive into its capital, Seoul, the powerhouse of Asia’s thirdlargest economy, and serenity is the last thing you’ll feel. This round-the-clock city is constantly on the move, with its workhard, play-hard population the epitome of the nation’s indefatigable, can-do spirit. You can hardly turn a corner without stumbling across a tourist information booth, a subway station or a taxi in this multifaceted metropolis where meticulously reconstructed palaces rub shoulders with teeming night markets and the latest technological marvel. Gorgeous Countryside South Korea’s compact size and superb transport infrastructure mean that tranquillity can be found in easy reach of the urban sprawl. Hike to the summits of craggy mountains enclosed by densely forested national parks. Some of those same mountains transform into ski slopes come winter. Get further off the beaten path than you thought possible by sailing to remote islands, where farming and fishing folk welcome you into their homes and simple seafood cafes. Chill out in serene villages surrounded by rice fields, sleeping in rustic hanok (traditional wooden house) guesthouses. Festivals & Food Rest assured the ROK also knows how to rock. A packed calendar of festivals and events means there’s almost always a celebration of some sort to attend wherever you are – it might be Boryeong for its mud fest, or Gwangju for its Biennale or its annual salute to that most Korean of foods: kimchi. Friendly Koreans are always delighted to share their culture with visitors – often that means over a shared meal with a tantalising array of dishes and plenty of toasts with local alcoholic beverages. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Korea Split by a fearsome border, the Korean Peninsula offers the traveller a dazzling range of experiences, beautiful landscapes and 5000 years of culture and history. 4

PANYA KHAMTUY / 500PX © Why I Love Korea By Simon Richmond, Author For all of its headlong rush into the 21st century on a hallyu (Korean popular culture wave), what charms me most about the ROK is its proud promotion of age-old traditions and culture. I fondly recall meditating at a Buddhist temple retreat where the honk of traffic was replaced by the rhythmic predawn chants of shaven-headed monks; hiking along Seoul’s 600-year-old city walls; and walking parts of the Jeju Olle Trail, connecting with history and island traditions on the way. My taste buds also tingle with the memory of one of Asia’s least known, but most delicious, cuisines. For more about our authors, see page 424 5 Above: Hwaseong (p101), Suwon

( S e a o f J a p a n ) E A S T S E A Fushun Ansan Shenyang Dandong Zarubino Hwajinpo Ryongyon Sokcho Kumchon RajinSonbong Chasong Hwapyong Huchang Myongchon Kyongsong OrangChongjin Musan Puryong Undok Saebyol Onsong Tanchon Kanggye Manpo Chosan Pyokdong Sakchu Maengsan Tokchon Suncheon MundokKaechon Chongju Kusong Uiju Sonchon Sinuiju Ryongchon Kimchaek Kilju Hyesan KapsanPungson Changjin Shinheung Iiwon Seoho Pukchong Sinbukchong Shinpo Hongwon Hungnam HamhungChongpyong Kowon Kosong Tongchon Hoeyang Wonsan Yangdok Kangdong Pyongyang Nampo Sinchon Changyon Sohung Ichon Pyonggang Cheorwon Chorwon Sariwon Haeju Kimhwa DMZ Chilbosan (1103m) Paekdusan (2744m) (1639m) Kumgangsan Myohyangsan (1909m) 39ºN 42ºN41ºN40ºN 39ºN 38ºN Paro Lake N O R T H K O R E A R U S S I A C H I N A The DMZ Peek into secretive North Korea (p95) ELEVATION 1500m 1000m 500m 200m 0 Korea 60 miles 0 100 km 0

( Y e l l o w S e a ) W E S T S E A ( E a s t C h i n a S e a ) S O U T H S E A JEJU-DO GYEONGSANGNAM-DO JEOLLANAM-DO CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO GANGWON-DO GYEONGGI-DO JEOLLABUK-DO CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO GYEONGSANGBUK-DO Jeju-si Heyri Boseong Suwon Hallim Jungmun Seogwipo Yeocheon Taebaek Samcheok Gongju Ulsan Masan BUSAN Tongyeong Jinju Namwon Yeosu Suncheon Samcheonpo Haenam Jangheung MokpoJindo GwangjuGoheung Wando Kaesong Ongjin Cheongju Jeonju ChungjuWonju Hongcheon Chuncheon Cheonan Boryeong Panmunjeom Dongducheon Janggok Incheon Seocheon Daejeon Jecheon Uljin Gimcheon Jeomchon Yeongju Andong Yeongdeok Pohang Gyeongju Yeongcheon Daegu Donghae Gunsan SEOUL Village Folk Hahoe Alpensia National Park Maritime Taean Haean Hallasan National Park Hallyeohaesang National Park Dadohae Haesang National Park Dadohae Haesang National Park National Park Sobaeksan Chiaksan (1288m) Hallasan (1950m) Deogyusan (1614m) Jirisan (1915m) (763m) Naejangsan Samyeongsan (1198m) (1058m) Songnisan (721m) Juwangsan Sobaeksan (1439m) 133ºE 38ºN 37ºN 36ºN 35ºN 34ºN123ºE 37ºN 36ºN 129ºE 128ºE 126ºE 124ºE 127ºE 125ºE Lake Chungju Soyang Lake Baengnyeongdo Honshu Kyushu Dokdo Hongdo Ulleungdo Tsushima Geojedo Dolsando Oenarodo Jindo Heuksando Hajodo Yeondo Cheongsando Geomundo Wando Bogildo Ganghwado Anmyeondo Beach Daecheon S O U T H K O R E A J A P A N Airport International Incheon Seoul World Heritage palaces and Gangnam style (p38) Suwon Fortress walls and mural villages (p101) Boryeong Get dirty at the mud festival (p289) Jeonju Untouched-by-time hanok village (p264) Jeju-do Natural wonders, splendid hiking (p231) Busan Fresh seafood, beaches and mountain vistas (p185) Gyeongju Grand remains of Bulguk-sa temple (p158) Hahoe Folk Village Charming village of traditional houses (p179) Pyeongchang Skiing at Alpensia and Yongpyong resorts (p139) Sobaeksan National Park Do a templestay at Guin-sa (p304)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Korea’s Top 13 8

Changdeokgung 1 The ‘Palace of Illustrious Virtue’ (p43) was built in the early 15th century as a secondary palace to Gyeongbukgung, though these days this Unesco World Heritage–listed property exceeds Gyeongbukgung in beauty and grace – partly because so many of its buildings were actually lived in by members of the royal family well into the 20th century. The most charming section is the Huwon, a ‘secret garden’ that is a royal horticultural idyll. Book well ahead to snag one of the limited tickets to view this special palace on a moonlight tour held on full-moon nights from April to June. Hiking Around Jeju-do 2 The frequently dramatic volcanic landscape of Jeju-do, the largest of South Korea’s many islands, is best seen on foot. The Jeju Olle Trail (p259) is a network of 26 half- to full-day hiking routes that meander around the island’s coast, part of the hinterland and three other islands. Spending a day following all or part of a trail is a wonderful way to soak up Jeju’s unique charms and beautiful surroundings. The summit of Hallasan (pictured below), the country’s highest peak, is also very achievable and, in good weather, provides spectacular views. HENDRIK H / SHUTTERSTOCK © FILIP NYMAN / 500PX © 9

Boryeong Mud Festival 3 Every July, thousands of people converge on the welcoming seaside town of Boryeong and proceed to jump into gigantic vats of mud. Welcome to the Boryeong Mud Festival (p289). The official line is that the local mud has restorative properties, but one look around and it’s clear that no one cares for much except having a slippery, sloshin’, messy good time. Mud aside, this foreigner-friendly and high-profile festival also features concerts, raves and fireworks. A tip: don’t wear anything you want to keep! Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress 4 Built as an act of filial devotion and heavily damaged during the colonisation period of the early 20th century and again in the Korean War, the restoration of this Unesco World Heritage Site began in the 1970s and is now almost finished. A detailed 1801 record of its construction has allowed the 5.52km-long wall and the Hwaseong Haenggung (p101; a palace for the king to stay in during his visits to Suwon) to be rebuilt with great historical accuracy. A walk around the wall takes you through four grand gates. Cheong-gye-cheon 5 A raised highway was demolished to allow reconstruction of this longburied stream (p43). The effort has transformed central Seoul, creating a riverside park and walking course that provides a calm respite from the surrounding commercial hubbub. Public art is dotted along the banks of the stream and many events are held here, including a spectacular lantern festival in November, when thousands of giant glowing paper sculptures are floated in the water. There’s also a good museum where you can learn about the history of the Cheon-gyecheon. CHUNG SUNG-JUN / GETTY IMAGES © 3 10PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

LOOP IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © CHOO YOUN-KONG / GETTY IMAGES © 45 11 PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

Skiing in Pyeongchang County 6They say third time’s a charm, and so Pyeongchang (p139) won the chance to host the Winter Olympics with its third bid. In 2018 the Games will be held at the Alpensia and Yongpyong ski resorts, as well as the Gangneung coastal area. Located near each other, Alpensia and Yongpyong have dozens of runs, including slopes for families and beginners, views of the East Sea (Sea of Japan) on clear days and some spanking-new accommodation and leisure facilities. Jeonju Hanok Maeul 7Jeonju’s version of a traditional village (p265) is impressive. The slate-roof houses are home to traditional arts: artisans craft fans, hand-make paper and brew soju (local vodka). Foodies will be pleased that the birthplace of bibimbap (rice, egg, meat and vegies with chilli sauce) offers the definitive version of this dish. If you decide to stay (and you will), you’ll find plenty of traditional guesthouses, where visitors sleep on a yo (padded quilt) in an ondol (underfloor heating) room. There’s even one run by the grandson of King Gojong. RICHARD NEBESKY / GETTY IMAGES © MICHELE BURGESS / ALAMY© 6 7 12PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

Gwangjang Market 8 During the day it’s known for its secondhand clothes and fabrics, but it’s at night that Gwangjang (p73) really comes into its own, when some of the market’s alleys fill with vendors selling all manner of street eats. Stewed pigs’ trotters and snouts, gimbap (rice, vegies and Spam wrapped in rice and rolled in sheets of seaweed) and bindaettok (plate-sized crispy pancakes of crushed mung beans and vegies fried on a skillet) are all washed down with copious amounts of magkeolli and soju (local liquors). Busan 9 Mountains, beaches, street food and a cosmopolitan vibe make Korea’s secondlargest metropolis (p185) one of the country’s most enjoyable cities. Its top attraction is the atmospheric waterside Jagalchi Fish Market, where you can try the freshest of seafood. Don’t miss sunrise on Haeundae beach; the Busan Cinema Center (pictured above), an architecturally dazzling structure with the biggest screen in the country; strolling the lanes of Gamcheon Culture Village; sampling the local dessert sulbing; and knocking back shots of soju in a tent bar. ED JONES / GETTY IMAGES © DESIGNED BY: COOP HIMMELB(L)AU, PHOTO: NATHAN WILLOCK / VIEW / CORBIS © 8 9 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

Bulguk-sa 10It’s hard to choose just one standout treasure in and around magnificent Gyeongju, but this Unesco World Heritage cultural site is most likely to take the honour, not least because it contains seven Korean ‘national treasures’ within its walls. The high point of the golden age of Shilla architecture, this incredibly sophisticated yet wonderfully subtle temple complex (p161), with its internal pagodas, external bridges and gorgeous, undulating scenery, is a monument to the skill of its carpenters, painters, craftspeople and architects. Templestay at Guin-sa 11 A bell rings at 3.30am for a morning meditation session. Breakfast is an austere meal, taken in silence so you can contemplate the ache in your bones from bowing 108 times in front of Buddha. Later, you’ll have more meditation time to contemplate the surrender of your body and mind in the search for inner peace. A templestay is the perfect antidote to fastpaced modern Korea, and while the country is awash with temples, the impressive fortress-like compound of Guin-sa (p304) is among the finest. TRAVELASIA / GETTY IMAGES © 10 14PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

Hahoe Folk Village 12 The closest thing Korea has to a time machine, the charming Hahoe Folk Village (p179), some way from Andong, is a truly wonderful experience for anyone wanting to get a sense of how Korea looked, felt, sounded and smelled before the 20th century changed the country forever. More than 200 people continue to live here, maintaining traditional ways and customs and even inviting people to spend the night in their minbak (private homes with rooms for rent). For a slice of old Korea, Hahoe should be at the top of your list. The DMZ 13It’s known as the Demilitarized Zone (p95), but this 4km-wide, 250km-long heavily mined and guarded buffer, splitting North from South Korea, is anything but. An enduring Cold War symbol, the DMZ has become a surreal tourist draw, on both sides of the border. The tension is most palpable in the Joint Security Area, the neutral area built after the 1953 Armistice for the holding of peace talks, which can only be visited on an organised tour. Seven observations points along the South Korean side of the DMZ allow visitors to peer into the secretive North. STEPHAN SCHERHAG / SHUTTERSTOCK © KEREN SU / GETTY IMAGES © TOPIC PHOTO AGENCY / CORBIS © 11 12 13 15 PLAN YOUR TRIP K o r e a’ s T o p 1 3

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Seoul GO Oct–Jun Cheongju GO Oct–Jun Busan GO Oct–Jun Jeju-si GO Year-round Pyongyang GO Apr–Jun GO Sep–Oct # # # # # Warm to Hot Summers, Cold Winters Warm to Hot Summers, Mild Winters Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p387) Currency Korean won (₩) Language Korean Visas Australian, British, US and most Western European citizens receive a 90-day entry permit on arrival. Five-day-only stays on Jeju-do are visa free. Money ATMs with a ‘Global’ sign work with internationally issued cards; very few are open 24 hours. Credit cards are widely accepted, except in the countryside. Mobile Phones South Korea uses the CDMA digital standard; check compatibility with your provider. Mobile phones can be hired at international airports and elsewhere. Time Nine hours ahead of GMT/UCT When to Go High Season (Jun–Sep) ¨ Be prepared for sweltering heat and a very heavy rainy season through July across the peninsula. Shoulder (May, Oct) ¨ Late spring sees the country bathed first in blossoms then fresh greenery. In autumn you can experience nature in all its russet shades. Low Season (Nov–Apr) ¨ Temperatures plummet and snow falls. Best time for skiing and visiting museums and galleries. 16

Useful Websites Lonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/south-korea) Best for pre-planning. Korea Tourism Organization (KTO; www.visitkorea.or.kr) Official government-run site. Korea4Expats (www.korea4 expats.com) Covers many aspects of Korean life. Korea.net (www.korea.net) A treasure trove of background detail on the ROK. Everyday Korea (http://wiki .everydaykorea.com) Info on a whole range of Korean topics. Important Numbers South Korea country code %82 International access code %00 Ambulance and fire %119 Police %112 Tourist information (English-speaking) %1330 Exchange Rates Australia A$1 ₩830 Canada C$1 ₩885 Europe €1 ₩1311 Japan ¥100 ₩978 UK UK£1 ₩1780 US US$1 ₩1176 For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. Daily Costs Budget: Less than ₩100,000 ¨ Dorm bed: ₩20,000 ¨ Street food: ₩1000–₩5000 ¨ Hiking: free ¨ Entry to National Museum of Korea: free ¨ Subway ticket: ₩1300 Midrange: ₩100,000–₩300,000 ¨ Hanok guesthouse: ₩70,000 ¨ Entry to Gyeongbokgung (Palace of Shining Happiness): ₩3000 ¨ Barbecued pork meal: ₩40,000 ¨ Theatre ticket: ₩40,000 Top End: More than ₩300,000 ¨ High-end hotel: ₩200,000 ¨ Royal Korean banquet: ₩80,000 ¨ Scrub and massage at a jjimjil-bang (luxury sauna): ₩60,000 ¨ DMZ tour: ₩100,000 Opening Hours Banks 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, ATMs 7am to 11pm Restaurants 11am to 10pm Cafes 7am to 10pm Bars 6pm to 1am, longer hours Friday and Saturday Shops 10am to 8pm Arriving in Korea Incheon Airport (Seoul; p397) Express trains (₩8000, 43 minutes) run every 30 minutes to Seoul; there are also commuter trains (₩3850, 53 minutes). Buses (₩10,000) and taxis (around ₩65,000) take an hour or more, depending on traffic. Gimpo Airport (Seoul; p397) Express trains (₩1400, 15 minutes) run regularly to Seoul station. You can also catch the subway (₩1400, 35 minutes). Buses (₩7500) and taxis (around ₩35,000) take 40 minutes to one hour to the city centre. Gimhae Airport (Busan; p195) Limo buses (₩6000 to ₩7000, one hour) and regular buses (₩1600, one hour) connect to Busan every 20 minutes. Or you can take the light rail line to Sasang subway station (₩2800, one hour). Taxis (around ₩40,000) take 30 minutes to one hour to the city. Getting Around Transport in South Korea is reasonably priced and efficient. Plane There are dozens of local airports and reasonable fares to several destinations. Train Excellent but not comprehensive network with clean, comfortable and punctual trains. It’s worth looking into a KR Pass even for something as straightforward as a return Seoul–Busan train. Bus Cheaper and slower than trains but serving every corner of the country. Ferry Connecting the mainland to hundreds of islands. Car Not recommended for firsttime visitors. You must be over 21 For much more on getting around, see p397 PLAN YOUR TRIP Need to Know 17

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Checklist ¨ Check the validity of your passport ¨ If you plan to hire a car, bring a current international driving permit ¨ Check airline baggage restrictions ¨ Check government travel websites ¨ Call banks and credit card providers and tell them your travel dates ¨ Organise travel insurance ¨ Check whether your mobile phone is compatible with Korea’s CDMA digital standard What to Pack ¨ Passport ¨ Credit card ¨ Phrasebook or mini dictionary ¨ Slip-on shoes ¨ Travel plug ¨ Insect repellent ¨ Painkillers (or other hangover cure) ¨ Padlock ¨ Medical kit ¨ Sunscreen ¨ Torch (flashlight) Top Tips for Your Trip ¨ It’s worth investing in a KR Pass even if you make only one longish trip on a fast train, such as Seoul to Busan return. ¨ Save money on public transport fares (and also pay for taxis) using a touch-and-go T-Money Card. ¨ Check with local tourist offices about free guided tours with students and others citizens who speak English and other languages. ¨ Spend over ₩30,000 at shops participating in the Global Refund scheme and you can claim VAT back on leaving the country. ¨ Hops from Seoul to Jeju-do on budget airlines may seem cheap, but check on baggage restrictions and extra costs before deciding – flying with Korean Air or Asiana may work out a better deal. What to Wear The vast majority of Koreans wear Western-style dress these days, although you’ll sometimes see people in hanbok (Korean clothing). The best version of this type of clothing – in fine silks and organza – are usually worn by women, and sometimes men, for formal occasions. More casual pyjamastyle hanbok are made from cotton and are very comfortable for everyday wear. For business, Koreans are quite formal and men wear suits and ties. Sleeping In general you don’t need to worry about where to stay – hotels and motels are so numerous there’s usually little need to book ahead. ¨ Motels The most common form of accommodation. Most offer well-equipped, if plain, rooms. Some can be fancy, particularly rentby-the-hour love hotels. ¨ Hanok Guesthouses Often only have a few rooms, so advance booking is advised. ¨ Hostels Common in cities and the best place to meet fellow travellers and English-speaking Koreans. First Time Korea For more information, see Survival Guide (p387) 18

Etiquette There are several social rules that Koreans stick to, although they will generally be relaxed about foreigners doing likewise. Follow these tips to avoid faux pas: ¨ Meetings & Greetings A quick, short bow is most respectful for meetings and departures. Give or receive any object using both hands – especially name cards (an essential feature of doing business in Korea), money and gifts. ¨ Shoes Remove your shoes on entering a Korean home, guesthouse, temple or Korean-style restaurant. ¨ Eating & Drinking Pour drinks for others and use both hands when pouring or receiving. Use chopsticks or a spoon to touch food and don’t leave either sticking up in a bowl of rice. ¨ Loss of Face A mishandled remark or potentially awkward scene should be smoothed over as soon as possible, and if you sense someone actively trying to change the subject, go with the flow. An argument or any situation that could lead to embarrassment should be avoided at all costs. Advance Planning If you are travelling over any of Korea’s major holidays, you should book all internal transport well ahead of time. Think about booking ahead if you wish to stay at a hanok (traditional house), as these have only three or four guest rooms in total. Top-end international chain hotels can also fill up when conferences are in town. Hiking on the weekend can be a madhouse – schedule your hikes for a weekday instead. The same goes for skiing trips in winter. Book the USO tour to the DMZ as soon as you can, as it fills up. Bargaining Try bargaining if you’re prepared to pay in cash and buy in bulk at markets, from street and subway vendors and even, occasionally, for big-ticket items in department stores. Tipping ¨ When to Tip Generally not expected. ¨ Restaurants No need to tip; only top-end hotel restaurants will add a service charge. ¨ Guides Not expected; a small gift will be appreciated, though. ¨ Taxis No need to tip; fares are metered or agreed before you get in. ¨ Hotels Only in the most luxurious do you need to tip bellboys etc, and only if service is good. ULLSTEIN BILD / GETTY IMAGES © 19 Language Korean is the common language. It’s relatively easy to find English speakers in the big cities, but not so easy in smaller towns and the countryside. Learning the writing system, hangeul, and a few key phrases will help you enormously in being able to decode street signs, menus and timetables. In big cities, you’ll find nearly all the street signs are in both Korean and English. PLAN YOUR TRIP FIRST TIME KOREA

Traditional Architecture Changdeokgung The most attractive of Seoul’s palaces, this World Heritage–listed site also has a ‘secret garden’. (p43) Bukchon Hanok Village Around 900 hanok (traditional wooden houses) make this Seoul’s largest neighbourhood of traditional homes. (p43) Seokbul-sa Hidden in the mountains of Busan, this temple perches daintily among enormous cliff-like boulders. (p187) Jeonju Hanok Maeul Jeonju’s sprawling hanok village is a charming nod to Korea’s lowslung architectural style. (p265) Seongeup Folk Village Step back in time in this walled village of thatched stone homes on Jeju-do. (p247) Hahoe Folk Village People still live in the rustic homes in this beautiful riverside village complex. (p179) Haein-sa This religious complex houses the Tripitaka Koreana: 81,258 wooden printing blocks containing Buddhist scriptures. (p156) Crafts & Shopping Namdaemun Market Open round the clock, with more than 10,000 stores dealing in everything from seaweed to spectacles. (p86) Shinsegae Centum City Shop till you drop in Busan at the world’s largest department store. (p194) Icheon Ceramic Village See traditional kilns and buy beautiful pots directly from their makers. (p105) Gangjin Celadon Museum Before you buy, watch celadon (green-glazed pottery) being crafted and kiln-fired here. (p222) Daegu’s Herbal Medicine Market Stock up on anything from cheap ginseng to reindeer horns at this fascinating market. (p149) Damyang Long famed for its bamboo products, this town holds a bamboo crafts festival in May. (p215) Daein Market Fifty-plus artists have studios beside regular stalls at this traditional market in Gwangju. (p214) Outdoor Activities Jeju Olle Trail Discover Jejudo’s byways on this excellent series of hiking routes around the volcanic island. (p259) Cycle along the Han River Pedal the cycle lanes linking the parks strung along Seoul’s major waterway. (p57) Wolchulsan National Park Hike through Korea’s smallest national park over a vertigo-inducing 52m-high bridge spanning two ridges. (p228) Seogwipo Korea’s best scuba-diving destination, with colourful corals, kelp forests and dolphins. (p249) High1 Check out the ski season at this resort in the mountains west of Taebaek. (p141) Seoul City Wall Hike beside these ancient walls as they snake over the capital’s four guardian mountains. (p52) Saryangdo Tackle jagged ridges, 400m peaks, ropes and ladders on the hike around this beautiful island off the coast of Tongyeong. (p199) World Heritage Sites Jongmyo The royal ancestral shrine set in peaceful wooded grounds is just one of several World Heritage Sites in Seoul. (p43) Namhan Sanseong Hike beside 17th-century fortress walls surrounded by beautiful pine and oak forests and wild flowers. (p104) Hwaseong Suwon’s impressive fortress walls have been meticulously reconstructed with great historical accuracy. (p101) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like… 20

Gochang Thousands of bronzeage tombs known as dolmen dot the hills around this small village. (p273) Gyeongju Prime examples of Buddhist art in the form of sculptures, reliefs, temples and palace architecture. (p158) Jeju-do The dormant volcanoes, Hallasan and Seongsan Ilchulbong, and a network of lava-tube caves are all World Heritage worthy. (p231) Contemporary Buildings Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park Zaha Hadid’s sleek building is straight out of a sci-fi fantasy. (p51) Seoul City Hall This giant glass wave is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Korean design. (p45) Busan Cinema Center Architecturally dazzling structure with the biggest screen in the country. (p189) Paju Book City The hub of Korea’s book industry is based in a complex of futuristic awardwinning buildings that are a must for architectural buffs. (p99) Songdo International City Marvel at this model urban development in the bay off Incheon. (p114) Museums & Galleries National Museum of Korea Packed with national treasures spanning the centuries. (p50) Leeum Samsung Museum of Art Three top architect-designed buildings and a dazzling collection of art from ancient to contemporary. (p51) CHRIS CUSICK / 500PX© CALVIN CHAN / SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Wolchulsan National Park (p228), Jeollanam-do Bottom: Namiseom Island (p121) 21 PLAN YOUR TRIP I f You L ike …

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Make the trek out to Seoul Grand Park to see this classy art museum. (p378) Asian Culture Complex New collection of galleries and performance spaces on the main site of Gwangju’s May 18 uprising. (p212) Arario Museum A quartet of renovated buildings in Jeju-si house showcase an outstanding collection of contemporary art. (p233) Gyeongju National Museum Houses a superb collection of artefacts from the Shilla dynasty and beyond. (p159) Top Tastes Namdo Food Festival Tuck into hundreds of different dishes, including the love-it-or-loathe-it hongeo samhap (fermented skate). (p213) Busan Sink your teeth into a twitching squid tentacle at Jagalchi Fish Market, or snack on the nether parts of chickens in tent bars. (p185) Jeonju Eat bibimbap, Korea’s most famous culinary export (after kimchi, of course), at its birthplace. (p264) Boseong Try the green-tea ice cream, green-tea noodles and green-tea biscuits close by tea plantations. (p221) Jeju Mawon Sample raw horsemeat at this restaurant in a mock-up of a Joseon Palace in Jungmun Resort. (p256) Chuncheon Along Dakgalbi Geori there are 20-plus restaurants serving the town’s famous spicy chicken dish, dakgalbi. (p121) Gwangjang Market Sample super-tasty and cheap street food in one of Seoul’s massive covered markets. (p73) Sokcho Platters of raw fish and other seafood delights at this east-coast port. (p125) Offbeat Experiences Dragon Hill Spa & Resort Strip down for a communal steam and full-body scrub at this fancy jjimjil-bang (upmarket sauna) in Seoul. (p56) Chamsori Gramophone & Edison Museum If you love music and the spirit of invention, don’t miss this astounding collection of vintage machines. (p135) Cheorwon March along a North Korean infiltration tunnel under the DMZ and peer into North Korea. (p129) Haesindang Park Admire phallic sculptures in this park in the fishing village of Sinnam. (p144) Sex Museums Gain a very adult education at Jeju-do’s trio of nookie-obsessed exhibitions. (p238) Kumsusan Sun Memorial Palace of the Sun Pay your respects to the embalmed body of Great Leader Kim Il-sung in his former palace. (p312) Mr Toilet House Hilarious poo-related exhibits and more serious sanitation issues at this toilet-shaped museum in Suwon. (p102) Scenic Spots Suncheon-man Rich mud beneath the rustling reeds attracts migratory birds and, in turn, scores of tourists. (p217) Paekdusan One of the best reasons to visit the DPRK is this stunning and fabled mountain. (p324) Bukhansan National Park Sweeping mountaintop vistas, maple leaves and rushing streams all within easy reach of Seoul. (p110) Heyri Wandering around this ‘book village’ with its contemporary buildings and quirky sculptures is a pleasure. (p98) Ji-dong Mural Village Outside Suwon’s city walls, this labyrinth of grungy alleyways bursts with vibrant wall murals. (p102) Samjinae Village Enjoy the slow life in this village of centuriesold stone walls, homesteads and heritage houses. (p216) Jikji-sa Popular templestay in a postcard-pretty temple in a quiet forest. (p158) Island Life Namhaedo You’ll blink several times and think you’ve been transported to southern France on this gorgeous island. (p204) Ulleungdo This East Sea island offers mist-shrouded volcanic cliffs, traditional harbour towns and a breathtaking jagged coastline. (p172) Udo Admire the Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone volcano from the white coral-sand beach on this lovely island. (p250) So-Muuido Stroll around this car-free island at the southeastern tip of lovely Muuido. (p114) Jindo Spring tidal drops reveal a 2.8km-long causeway leading to the tiny island of Modo-ri. (p229) Sapsido Offers undeveloped beaches, bucolic villages surrounded by rice paddies, and the salty smell of fish. (p290) Namiseom Island Spot deer, ostriches and waterfowl on this wooded, lake-bound island southwest of Chuncheon. (p121) 22PLAN YOUR TRIP I f You L ike …

Month by Month January Come prepared for freezing temperatures and snow across much of the country. 2 Taebaeksan Snow Festival Marvel at giant ice sculptures and enjoy sledding fun at this winter celebration in Taebaeksan Provincial Park. (p144) February Local religious holidays and festivals follow the lunar calendar, while the rest follow the Gregorian (Western) calendar. Therefore, Seollal will sometimes occur in January. zSeollal (Lunar New Year) Koreans visit relatives, honour ancestors and eat traditional foods over this three-day national holiday. There are a number of events in Seoul during this time. For more information visit www.visitseoul.net or www.visitkorea.or.kr. In 2017 Seollal begins on 28 January and in 2018 on 16 February. April Bring your raincoat and war clothes as the weather can still be wintry and wet. Early April is also when areas of Korea turn pink in a transient flurry of delicate cherry blossoms. zYeongdeungpo Yeouido Spring Flower Festival Masses of cherry blossoms around the Seoul island draw the biggest crowds, but you can also see the flowers on Namsan and at Ewha Woman’s University. (p60) zGIC Biennale Running into May, the world’s largest biennale specialising in ceramics (www.kocef.org) is for people potty about pottery. It’s held in odd-numbered years in Incheon. 2 Pyongyang Marathon Held on the nearest Sunday to 15 April, Kim Il-sung’s birthday, this event (www. pyongyangmarathon.com) is a unique chance to run through the mysterious North Korean capital. May One of the most pleasant months in which to visit Korea, with good weather and fewer problems finding accommodation than in the busy summer months. zJongmyo Daeje Held on the first Sunday of the month, this ceremony honours Korea’s royal ancestors and involves a solemn, costumed parade through downtown Seoul to the royal shrine at Jongmyo, where spectators can enjoy traditional music and an elaborate, all-day ritual. (p61) zLotus Lantern Festival The weekend preceding Buddha’s birthday, Seoul celebrates with a huge daytime street festival and evening lantern parade – the largest in South Korea. (p61) TOP EVENTS Lotus Lantern Festival, May Jongmyo Daeje, May Boryeong Mud Festival, July Busan International Film Festival, October Gwangju Biennale, September to November 23 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

zBuddha’s Birthday Brings a kaleidoscope of light and colour, as rows of paper lanterns are strung down main thoroughfares and in temple courtyards across Korea (celebrated on 14 May in 2016, 3 May in 2017 and 22 May in 2018). 3Chuncheon International Mime Festival The lakeside city hosts street performers, magicians, acrobats and quirky shows such as a soap-bubble opera at this festival. (p121) June Warmer weather before the rains of July make this a great time to enjoy Korea’s great outdoors on hiking trips and at the beach. z Gangneung Danoje Festival Recognised by Unesco as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, Gangneung’s version of the Dano Festival is held according to the lunar calendar and features shamanist rituals, mask dances and market stalls. (p135) July It can rain – a lot – during this month, so make sure you have appropriate gear and arrange your travel plans accordingly. 3Ansan Valley Rock Festival One of Korea’s premier summer music festivals (www. valleyrockfestival.com), with a stellar line-up of international headliners as well quality K-Indie bands. 2 Boryeong Mud Festival Head to Daecheon Beach to wallow in mud pools and take part in stacks of muddy fun and games. (p289) August Head for breezy coastal areas and the loftier mountains to find some relief from the sweltering heat of high summer. 2 Chungju World Martial Arts Festival This festival is held in the World Martial Arts Park, where you’ll see all sorts of unusual martial arts with teams participating from across the world. (p299) September Book ahead for transport around Chuseok, when many Koreans are visiting family and friends. zGwangju Biennale Korea’s leading international art show is a two-month carnival of the avant-garde, held from September to November in even-numbered years. (p212) 3Mask Dance Festival This 10-day festival in Andong, held at the end of the month and running into October, brings together more than 20 traditional dance troupes. (p178) zKorea International Art Fair Held at Seoul’s COEX, KIAF is one of the region’s top art fairs and a good opportunity to get a jump on the country’s hot new artists. (p61) October Autumn is a great time to visit, particularly if you like hiking as this is when the mountains run through a palate of rustic colours. 3Busan International Film Festival Korea’s top international film festival, held in the architecturally stunning Busan Cinema Center, attracts stars from across Asia and beyond. (p189) zSeoul International Fireworks Festival Best viewed from Yeouido Hangang Park, this festival sees dazzling fireworks displays staged by both Korean and international teams. (p60) zBaekje Cultural Festival This major festival, packed with events, is held in Buyeo in even-numbered years and in Gongju in oddnumbered years. (p284) 5Gwangju World Kimchi Culture Festival Join the celebrations for Korea’s most famous contribution to the culinary arts. For details see http:// kimchi.gwangju.go.kr. 24PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month

Itineraries JAPAN NORTH KOREA CHINA Seoul Chuncheon Sokcho Seoraksan National Park Gangneung Jeongdongjin Hw Samcheok anseongul & Daegeumgul Haesindang Park Hahoe Folk Village Gyeongju Seokguram Busan Jeju-do É –# •# •# É É W E S T S E A ( Y E L LO W S E A ) SO U T H S E A ( E A S T C H I N A S E A) E AS T S E A ( S E A OF JA PA N ) •# •#•# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# #_ É DMZ •# É South Korea’s Highlights Access the best of Korea on this trip taking in the dynamic capital Seoul, the southern port of Busan, lost-in-time country towns, quirky sights and beautiful Jeju-do. Spend four or five days in Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around Uiam Lake and sample the town’s famous chicken dish, dakgalbi. Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho then hike around the stunning peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view wellpreserved Joseon-era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge Hwanseongul and Daegeumgul caves, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures. Delve into Korea’s past at serene Hahoe Folk Village and Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days exploring royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram. Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where you can enjoy amazing volcanic scenery on leisurely hikes. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 2 WEEKS 25

This cross-country itinerary is ideal for those looking to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy mountain trails. From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the meticulously reconstructed fortress wall. Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops – hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dynasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night. Return to Daecheon and continue north by bus to Anmyeondo, the largest island in the Taean Haean National Marine Park. Continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some the new Haebyeongil trails through the park. Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m-tall gold-plated Buddha statue. Chungju is the gateway to lovely Woraksan National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, which is small-town Korea at its most charming. Explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park. Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages. It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island. 3 WEEKS #– NORTH KOREA Muuido & So-Muuido Gongju Incheon Incheon International Airport Yuseong Hot Springs Buyeo •# Sapsido Daecheon Beach Suwon Chungju Limestone Caves Danyang É •# •# W E S T S E A ( Y E L LO W S E A ) E AS T S E A ( S E A OF JA PA N ) Mallipo É Beach É Songnisan National Park Woraksan National Park Guin-sa Andong Bogyeong-sa •# É Ulleungdo f# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# Taean Haean National Park •#Anmyeondo •# •# Khotji Beach •# Daejeon Cheongju Pohang É É É É West Sea to East Sea 26PLAN YOUR TRIP I t inerari e s

This 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-industrialised region offers the opportunity to visit scores of rural islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions. Jeonju has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and buildings. Use it as a base for visiting the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between a pair of ‘horse ear’ mountains and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the Tap-sa temple. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park. The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanesecolonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful. Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress. Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park. Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste products made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. Go bird spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff. For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on picturesque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at Korea’s second-largest city, Busan. 2 WEEKS Seonyudo Mokpo Gwangju Damyang Moaksan Provincial Park Yeosu Gochang; Moyang Fortress Hyangiram Gunsan Jeonju Suncheon Bay É WEST SE A ( Y E L L O W SEA) S O U T H SE A (EAST C H I N A S E A ) Hongdo & Heuksando Dadohae Haesang National Park Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation É Namhaedo •# Deogyusan National Park •# Jinan É Busan Maisan Provincial Park •# •# É É •# •# •# Dolsando •# Tap-sa •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# É É •# •# •# É É É •# Gangjin The Deep South Trail 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP I t inerari e s

This two-centre itinerary is well suited to parents travelling with kids. Seoul’s many parks, interactive museums and, in summer, outdoor swimming pools are ideal for family fun. Older kids will most likely be happy cruising the capital’s vast shopping malls and department stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s pervasive pop culture. Day trips include the beaches of the West Sea islands; Korea’s biggest amusement park, Everland; and the Korean Folk Village. The latter two can just as easily be visited from Suwon, where it’s fun to walk around the walls of an 18th-century fortress. North of Seoul, the modern village of Heyri offers inventive sculptures and art exhibits. Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, blessed with a fascinating volcanic landscape and dozens of sandy beaches. Amusement and water parks, cycle and skate hire and a whole raft of adventure activities, from quad biking to scuba diving, are possible on this fun-packed island with plenty of world-class resorts. 2 WEEKS Seoul & Jeju Jaunt Some of South Korea’s top temples feature on this route linking its two main cities. In Seoul attend a Templelife program at Jogye-sa or Bongeun-sa. Danyang is the transit point for Sobaeksan National Park, where you’ll find modern Guin-sa, headquarters of the Cheontae sect. Daegu is the base for trips to stunning Haein-sa, housing a World Heritage–listed library of more than 80,000 14th-century woodblocks, and Jikji-sa, a magnificent temple dating to the 5th century. Jinan is the access town for Tap-sa, a tiny temple surrounded by two ‘horse ear’ mountains and an extraordinary sculptural garden of 80 stone pinnacles (or towers). From Gwangju, visit Unju-sa, with its fine collection of stone pagodas and unusual twin and reclining Buddhas. From Gongju, one-time capital of Korea’s Baekje dynasty, visit remote Magoksa, with a hall of 1000 pint-sized disciples who are all slightly different. Finish just outside of Busan at Tongdosa, which has an excellent Buddhist art museum containing 30,000 artefacts. 2 WEEKS JAPAN NORTH KOREA W E S T S E A ( Y E L LO W S E A ) E AS T S E A ( S E A OF JA PA N ) É •# Seoul Danyang Daegu West Sea Islands Busan Everland; Korean Folk Village Suwon Heyri Gwangju É SO U T H S E A ( E A S T C H I N A S E A) –# É Jeju-do •# Jinan •# •# •# •# •# É É Gongju•# É •#Sobaeksan National Park •# •#Tongdo-sa •# #_ É •# City & Country Seoul & Jeju Jaunt City & Country 28PLAN YOUR TRIP I t inerari e s

Plan Your Trip Hiking & Rock Climbing Hiking is Korea’s number-one leisure activity. There are 21 national parks and scores more provincial parks, threaded with thousands of trails – everything from leisurely half-day walks, such as those along the Jeju Olle Trail, to strenuous mountainridge treks. Basic shelters are available, but expect a full house during holidays, summer months and autumn weekends. If you’re planning a major overnight mountain trek, shelter reservations two weeks in advance are recommended. About a quarter of the trails may be closed at any one time to allow areas to regenerate. ¨ Korea National Park Service (www. knps.or.kr) For trail information and online reservations for park accommodation. ¨ Hike Korea (www.hikekorea.com) Learn about Korean mountain culture as well as many of the country’s best trails. The site’s author, Roger Shepherd, is one of the authors of BakeduDaegu Trail, a book that details the 1400km-long ‘White Head Great Ridge’ down the southern Korean Peninsula. ¨ Hiking Hub Korea (www.hikinghubkorea. com/about-hiking-hub.html) Downloadable PDFs of English-language hiking guides for many of Korea’s mountains. ¨ Adventure Korea (www.adventurekorea. com) In addition to running hiking trips, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Outdoor Activities Korea’s countryside, coastline and islands are a year-round outdoor playground with a range of activities, including hiking, cycling, diving, surfing, rafting and kayaking. With soaring mountains and a reliable snow record, it’s ideal for winter sports and in 2018 it will host the Winter Olympics. Activity Tips Top 5 Outdoor Adventures Climb Halla-san, Jeju-do Dive Seogwipo, Jeju-do Ski at Alpensia, Pyeongchang Cycle around Seonyudo Hike through Jirisan National Park Responsible Outdoors Pay any entrance fees required by park authorities. Obtain reliable information about route conditions and tackle only trails within your realm of experience and fitness level. Do not hike closed trails. Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environment. Be aware that the weather can change quickly and seasonal changes will influence how you dress and the equipment you need to carry. Leave only footprints, take only photographs – don’t litter and don’t bring back souvenirs such as seashells or flowers. 29

this expat-focused operator offers other adventurous activities, including cycling and rafting trips. ¨ Korea on the Rocks (www.koreaontherocks. com) Details on rock and ice climbing across Korea. Cycling To hire a bike, some form of ID is usually required. A helmet or lock is almost never included unless you ask. In major cities it’s possible to rent bikes – Seoul has great bicycle trails along the Han River. Resorts with waterfront and hordes of tourists are sure to have a stand where bikes can be hired. Most bike paths are geared towards leisure riders, with couples and families in mind, so expect wellmarked, paved, flat trails designed for pleasure rather than intense cross-country exhilaration. The 200km pedal around Jeju-do, Korea’s largest island, takes from three to five days, depending on your level of fitness and how quickly you wish to take it. Hwy 1132 runs around the entire island and has bicycle lanes on either side. Another lovely island to cycle around is Seonyudo at the centre of the Gogunsan Archipelago, off the coast of Jeollabuk-do. Filthy (www.mtbk-adventure.com) Written by Korea-based expats, this site details a selection of mountain-biking trails. Skiing & Snowboarding In 2018 Pyeongchang (p139) county in Gangwon-do will host the Winter Olympic Games, with Alpensia (p139) serving as the main resort and the larger Yongpyong (p140) nearby hosting the slalom events. Korea’s snow season runs from December to March. Lift tickets cost about ₩65,000 and equipment rentals about ₩30,000 per day. Package deals from travel agents include transport, tickets, rentals and, if required, lessons and accommodation. Overnight packages vary KOREA’S TOP PARKS National Parks PARK AREA FEATURES & ACTIVITIES Bukhansan 78 sq km Great hiking, subway access from Seoul Dadohae Haesang 2344 sq km (2004 sq km marine) A marine park of scattered, unspoilt islands Deogyusan 219 sq km Ski resort, a fortress and a magical valley walk Gyeongju 138 sq km A historic park strewn with ancient Shilla and Buddhist relics Hallasan 149 sq km An extinct volcano; Korea’s highest peak Jirisan 440 sq km Straddling two provinces; high peaks popular with serious hikers Seoraksan 373 sq km Korea’s most beautiful park Sobaeksan 320 sq km Limestone caves and Guin-sa, an impressive temple complex, to explore Provincial Parks PARK AREA FEATURES & ACTIVITIES Daedunsan 38 sq km Granite cliffs, great views, hot-spring bath Gajisan 104 sq km Scenic views; famous Tongdo-sa temple Mudeungsan 30 sq km Near Gwangju, with an art gallery and a green-tea plantation Taebaeksan 17 sq km Visit the Coal Museum, hike to Dangun’s altar 30PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities

from ₩60,000 for a night in a minbak (private room in a home) or basic hotel, to upwards of ₩250,000 for condos and upmarket suites. Weekends are often very crowded, especially at resorts near Seoul. Skiers and snowboarders alike are catered for; boarding has become especially popular with Koreans in recent years. Many resorts run dedicated shuttle buses to/from pick-up points in Seoul, making for a long but easy day on the slopes. Gangwon-do High1 (p141) Modern ski resort with among the best facilities and snow in Korea. Set in the Taebaek Mountains and boasting 18 slopes, five lifts and four gondolas. Yongpyong (p140) Korea’s oldest and biggest resort, with slopes ranging from bunny options to advanced runs. Alpensia (p139) The 2018 Winter Games host resort. Its compact size also makes it a good place for families and anyone learning to ski. Elysian Gangchon (p106) Small, slick ski resort reachable by the Seoul subway. Jeollabuk-do Deogyusan Muju (p272) The only ski area inside a national park, its 26 slopes are set in an Austrianthemed village. Chungcheongbuk-do Eagle Valley Ski Resort (p301) Modest resort near the relaxing hot springs of Suanbo. North Korea Masik-Ryong Ski Resort (p322) A pet project of Kim Jong-un, offering several runs (one over 5km long), bunny slopes, Skidoos, skating and the luxurious Masik Ryong Hotel. Ice Skating Indoor ice skating is available year-round at Seoul’s Lotte World (롯데월드 아이스 링; Map p67; %for English 02-1330; www. lotteworld.com/icerink; B3 fl, Lotte World Adventure, 240, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; per session incl rental adult/child ₩15,000/14,000; hhours vary; c; bLine 2 or 8 to Jamsil, Exit 1). Hikers at Odaesan National Park (p142) THE WASHINGTON POST / GETTY IMAGES © 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities

YONHAP NEWS AGENCY / CORBIS© CHUNG SUNG-JUN / GETTY IMAGES © Top: Skiing in Pyeongchang (p139) Bottom: Golf in Incheon (107) 32PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities 32PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities

In winter there’s an outdoor rink (서울 광장 스케이장; Map p46; %for English 02- 1330; www.seoulskate.or.kr; 110 Sejong-daero; per hr incl skate rental ₩1000; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sat Dec-Feb; c; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 5) outside City Hall, and the Grand Hyatt (p67) and Sheraton Walkerhill hotels have temporary outdoor rinks. Surfing Haeundae (p187) and Songjeong beaches in Busan are among the best places to experience South Korea’s surf. However, you’ll need to suit up as the best time for surf conditions is winter, when waves are whipped up by strong winds from the north. Water temperatures at these times dip to 3°C, but could be as high as 10°C. If that’s too chilly for you, head to balmy Jungmun Beach (p255) off Jeju-do’s south coast. Diving Korea has an active scuba-diving scene. The top dive site is just off Seogwipo on Jeju-do’s south coast, with walls of colourful soft coral, 18m-high kelp forests (March to May), schools of fish and the occasional inquisitive dolphin. Diving here is a mixture of tropical and temperate – rather like diving in Norway and the Red Sea at the same time. Visibility is best from September to November, when it can be up to 30m (it’s around 10m at other times) and water temperature varies from 15°C to 28°C. Other good underwater sites on the east coast are Hongdo, off the south coast; Pohang, Ulleungdo and Dragon Head, off Sokcho; and a wreck dive off Gangneung. The west coast has some dive operators – at Daecheon beach, for instance – but visibility can be poor. Golf In 1998 Se Ri Pak put South Korea onto the golf map by winning the US Women’s Open. Today, Korean women dominate the American LPGA Tour and golf is a national pastime with hundreds of courses dotting the country. One of the most popular golfing destination is Jeju-do, where courses include Jungmun Beach Golf Club (p255) and Pinx Golf Club (p260). Playing on a course in Korea isn’t cheap. An average 18-hole round of golf may set you back ₩300,000. But for virtual golf, there are thousands of golf cafes around the country, so you’ll find one in just about any city. A round of virtual golf at chains such as Golfzon (http://company.golfzon. com) costs about ₩30,000. Also common are golf practice ranges. Birdwatching With some of the widest and most extensive tidal flats in the world, the Korean Peninsula is a natural magnet for birds. More than 500 species have been spotted in Korea, including 34 threatened species. Most are on their migratory route between Siberia and Manchuria in the north and Southeast Asia and Australia in the south. Popular birdwatching spots include the following. ¨ Suncheon Bay This wetland park on Jeollanam-do’s south coast is where the hooded crane winters. ¨ Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) A preferred stop for migrating birds because it’s been uninhabited for 50 years. ¨ Bamseom Island Bird Sanctuary This pair of islets in Seoul’s Han River is off-limits to humans but birds – including mandarins, mallards, spotbills and great egrets – can be spotted from an observation platform in Yeouido’s Han River Park. Birds Korea (www.birdskorea.org) has photos of Korean birds and lots of info for bird lovers. Kayaking, Canoeing & Rafting Gangwon-do’s northwest is the hotspot for kayaking, canoeing and rafting trips from mid-April to October. Adventure Korea (p29) and Koridoor (p60) also offer whitewater rafting trips. 33 PLAN YOUR TRIP O utdoor Activities

Gangwon-do Hiking Skiing Quirky Misty Mountains Seoraksan National Park abounds with gorgeous vistas of mist-shrouded crags that rarely fail to stun. The valleys are full of quiet temples, hot springs and hiking trails. Hit the Slopes Host of the 2018 Winter Olympics, Pyeongchang’s Yongpyong and Alpensia ski resorts aren’t the biggest in the world but they pack in heaps of familyfriendly options such as sledding and inner tubing. The Unknown DMZ Peek into North Korea at the northernmost point along the DMZ at the Goseong Unification Observatory, or go deep under the zone itself in the Second Infiltration Tunnel in Cheorwon. p119 Around Seoul Islands History Art Island Escapes Scores of islands flaking off like crumbs into the West Sea make for perfect escapes from the urban grip of Seoul and Incheon. Try historic Ganghwado or laid-back Muuido, which has gorgeous beaches. Historic Sites The DMZ splitting North and South Korea is a must-see, as are the Unesco World Heritage– listed fortress walls surrounding the inner core of Suwon. Artistic Places The pottery town of Incheon draws in ceramics lovers, and Heyri near the DMZ border is a serene village packed with small galleries. See something different in the exhibitions at Incheon Art Platform or the sculptures of Anyang Art Park. p94 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Regions at a Glance #_ Seoul History Food Shopping Historic Landmarks Given how thoroughly it was trashed during the Korean War, it’s no small miracle that so many of Seoul’s historic landmarks remain. A number of them are meticulous reconstructions, but that doesn’t diminish their significance or impact. Food & Drink Seoul is the best place to sample the full range of Korean culinary delights – from hot kimchi stews and sizzling street snacks to the delicate morsels that make up a royal banquet. Shoppers’ Delight At all times of day or night there’s always somewhere to shop in Seoul. The teeming markets of Dongdaemun and Namdaemun are must-do experiences, as is cruising the boutiques and department stores of Myeong-dong or ritzy Apgujeong and Cheongdam. p38 34

Jeju-do Hiking Art & Culture Food Hiking Trails Discover the island the slow way, following one or more of the 26 routes on the Jeju Olle Trail. Alternatively, take one of four routes to the top of Hallasan (1950m), South Korea’s tallest mountain. Arty Stones & Sexy Art Jeju-do is packed with all manner of galleries and museums, from the impressive Jeju Stone Park and stunning photos at Kim Young Gap Gallery Dumoak, to a trio of sex museums. Local Delicacies Jeju’s separately developed island culture reveals itself in a distinct cuisine, heavy on seafood but also with cuts of black pig and horse on the menu. p231 Jeollanam-do Art & Culture Islands Quirky Ceramics & Art From Gangjin’s ancient celadon (green-tinged pottery) kilns to Gwangju’s brand-new Asian Culture Complex, Jeollanam-do has a long history of supporting the arts. Islands Galore The rolling hills lead down to the coastline, where you can hop on a boat to explore hundreds of islands. Don’t forget to sample the local catch of the day: sashimi, abalone or even live octopus. Eclectic Excursions Hunting for murals in a traditional market (in Gwangju), getting steamy in a seawater sauna (in Hampyeong), gawking at sunken treasures (in Mokpo)… these are just some of the quirky sights and activities possible here. p208 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do Food Beaches Islands Fresh Fish You’d have to be swimming in the ocean to get your hands on seafood fresher than the produce at Busan’s Jagalchi Fish Market. Pick your creature from a tank and it’ll be your next meal within minutes. Sand Castling Sure, Haeundae beach can be overcrowded and overhyped, but it’s the nation’s most loved for good reason. Kick back in the sand, frolic in the waves and snack on barbecued shellfish in Cheongsapo. Island-Hopping The coastline has myriad islands to explore, but Namhaedo, one of the largest, is stunningly beautiful, with mountaintop temples and terraced rice paddies sloping down to the sea. p182 Gyeongsangbuk-do Temples History Food Idyllic Retreats Topping mistshrouded mountains are mysterious ancient temples, idyllically isolated from the neondrenched cities of Gyeongsangbuk-do. Historic Sites Head to Gyeongju, the ‘museum without walls’, for a slice of Shilla history, be it the fabulous finds on display at the excellent National Museum, or the tombs and temples that surround the town. Delicious Dishes The island of Ulleungdo offers the best seafood in Korea, or try Andong’s famous mackerel. Don’t miss Daegu or Gyeongju’s innovative and superb eating options, surely some of the best in the country. p147 35 PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance

North Korea Politics Quirky Scenery Monuments and Propaganda Any trip to North Korea is full of politics, from the ubiquitous propaganda to the museums, monuments and art. Coming here is a fascinating chance to see things from a different perspective. Mind-Bogglers Whether visiting an exhibition of Kim Jong-il’s gifts housed in a mountainside warehouse, or taking a trip on the world’s most secretive metro system, there’s no trip weirder than a tour of the DPRK. Spectacular Scenery Beyond its unique political situation, North Korea is rich in natural beauty, with soaring mountains, sandy beaches and crystal-clear lakes, making it a great place for nature lovers. p306 Chungcheongbuk-do Temples Gentle Activities History Find Inner Peace While Korea may be awash with temples, some of the most grand and glorious can be found here. The modern hillside complex of Guin-sa impresses, as does the 33mhigh gold Buddha at Beopju-sa. Slow it Down This landlocked region, with its quiet towns, offers a chance for leisurely exploration of Korea’s heartland. Take a meandering cruise along Chungju Lake or soak in an oncheon (hot-spring spa) at Suanbo. Footnotes in History The world’s first book printed by movable type was created in Cheongju. Other historical footnotes, such as the Cheongnamdae presidential villa, will also vie for your attention. p293 Chungcheongnam-do Beaches Festivals History Sunbathing Fun There are opportunities galore to work on that tan at Korea’s most popular beaches. Whether you like packed summer scenes or intimate small strips of sand, you’ll find it here. Mud Rollicking Possibly Korea’s most famous (some say infamous) festival, the Boryeong Mud Festival is a messy extravaganza that’s hugely popular with foreigners. Baekje History The twin sleepy towns of Gongju and Buyeo were once the seat of power of Korea’s earliest dynasty, the long-running Baekje kingdom. Festivals, fortresses, tombs and museums pay tribute to its legacy. p276 Jeollabuk-do Hiking Food History Head for the Hills For a small province, Jeollabuk-do has an impressive amount of parkland. Choose from a number of national and provincial parks and join the droves of outdoor enthusiasts in exploring Korea’s natural beauty. Glorious Food In the middle of an agricultural heartland, Jeonju is Korea’s favourite foodie destination, home of the rice dish bibimbap and a lively street-food culture. After hours it’s all about the makgeolli (milky rice wine). Go Back in Time History is celebrated in Jeonju’s hanok village and its clusters of artisans. Other engaging reminders of the past include the Gochang fortress and the former colonial port of Gunsan. p263 36PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance

#_ North Korea p306 Gangwon-do p119 Jeju-do p231 Jeollanam-do p208 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do p182 Gyeongsangbuk-do p147 Jeollabuk-do p263 Chungcheongnam-do p276 Chungcheongbuk-do p293 Seoul p38 Around Seoul p94 On the Road ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

%02 / POP 10.01 MILLION Best Places to Eat ¨ Jungsik (p74) ¨ Noryangjin Fish Market (p73) ¨ Congdu (p70) ¨ Gwangjang Market (p73) ¨ Coreanos Kitchen (p74) Best Places to Stay ¨ Hide & Seek Guesthouse (p63) ¨ Minari House (p65) ¨ Small House Big Door (p63) ¨ Itaewon G Guest House (p65) ¨ Park Hyatt Seoul (p68) When to Go May Enjoy good weather and top events such as the Jongmyo Daeje and Lotus Lantern Festival. Aug Cool off at the outdoor swimming pools along the Han River. Oct Hike across mountains coated in brilliant autumn colours, and enjoy Seoul’s fireworks festival. Seoul Why Go? An old Korean proverb goes ‘even if you have to crawl on your knees, get yourself to Seoul!’ Never has this been more sound advice. Asia’s second-richest city, Seoul (서울) is a dynamic mash-up of markets and K-Pop, teahouses and temples, palaces and mountains, skyscrapers and pulsing neon. This Unesco City of Design also offers several contemporary architectural marvels, including the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park and the giant glass wave of the new City Hall. Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis of 10 million people from atop any of Seoul’s four guardian mountains and you will innately sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng shui) that has long nurtured and protected the city. Public transport is brilliant and whatever you want, at any time of the day or night, Seoul can provide. The joys of eating, drinking, shopping and general merrymaking are in abundant evidence, from Apgujeong’s chic boutiques to Hongdae’s bars and restaurants. Includes Sights........................... 39 Activities ...................... 56 Courses........................ 56 Tours ............................60 Festivals & Events........60 Sleeping ........................61 Eating...........................68 Drinking & Nightlife......74 Entertainment .............80 Shopping...................... 85 J F D M A M J J A S O N Seoul °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 0 4/100 8/200 12/300 16/400 -20/-4 -10/14 10/50 20/68 40/104 0/32 30/86 #_

Seoul Sights IG History When Seoul became the capital of Korea following the establishment of the Joseon dynasty in 1392, its population was around 100,000. Just over 600 years later this has ballooned to just over 10 million (or 25.6 million if you consider the wider metro area), making Seoul one of the world’s largest cities, and the second richest in Asia in terms of GDP, after Tokyo. During the 20th century the city suffered first under Japanese colonial rule and then during the Korean War when it was almost entirely destroyed. Rebuilt from the 1960s, Seoul is the country’s centre of cultural, economic and political power. Past mayors have gone on to become South Korea’s president, including Lee Myung-bak, who finished his term of office as president in December 2012. When Park Won-soon, a former human rights lawyer and independent candidate, was elected Seoul’s mayor in October 2011, it was a watershed moment not only for Korean politics but also for the city itself. Under previous mayors, top of the agenda had been construction-led growth that resulted in flashy, expensive projects such as the reclamation of the Cheong-gye-cheon and the commissioning of Dongdaemun Design Plaza. Park has since aligned with the left-ofcentre Democratic Party and won a second term as Seoul’s mayor with policies such as building more footpaths and pedestrianonly zones, a bicycle-sharing scheme and expansion of the subway appealing to voters. 1Sights You’ll spend the bulk of your time north of the meandering Han River that splits Seoul into two distinct regions, which are themselves split into 25 gu (administrative districts). This is home to historic Seoul, a relatively compact, walkable area. Seoul’s fascinating feudal past can be glimpsed in the palaces around Gwanghwamun (the main gate to Gyeongbokgung). Nearby Insa-dong (인사동), Samcheong-dong (삼청동) and Bukchon are all packed with souvenir shops, teahouses, restaurants and small museums, often in converted hanok (traditional wooden houses). Note that the narrow streets in these areas can get jammed on weekends and holidays. There are a few other sights of note further north around Seoul City Wall, which once encircled the city. Namsan, crowned by N Seoul Tower, the green hill at the heart of the old city, is sandwiched between Myeong-dong shopping district to the north and the foreigner-friendly zone of Itaewon to the south. Not far to the west are the youthful party districts of Hongdae (the area around Hongik University), Sinchon and Edae. South of the river, Gangnam and surrounding suburbs are best for shopping and entertainment. SEOUL IN… Two Days Stroll around Bukchon Hanok Village (p43). Grab lunch and go shopping in Insa-dong (p86) then attend the changing of the palace guard at Gyeongbokgung (p43) or join the day’s last tour of Changdeokgung (p43). Enjoy dinner in Gwangjang Market (p73). On day two visit the splendid Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (p51). Move on to either the National Museum of Korea (p50) or the War Memorial of Korea (p51). Freshen up at Dragon Hill Spa & Resort (p56), ride the cable car to N Seoul Tower (p44) atop Namsan then return to Itaewon for dining and late-night carousing. Five Days Follow Seoul City Wall up Bukak-san (p52) and down to the Gilsang-sa (p48) temple. Explore Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (p51), pick up a new outfit from the market here then follow the Cheong-gye-cheon (p43) back to the heart of the city. On day four visit Seodaemun Prison History Hall (p50) and hike up Inwangsan Guksadang (p50), where you might come across shamans performing ancient ceremonies. End the day with a traditional performing-arts show and royal-cuisine meal at Korea House (p85). Cap your visit off with a meal at Noryangjin Fish Market (p73), hire a bike in Yeouido and cycle along the Han River (p57) and soak up the buzzing nocturnal vibe of Hongdae. 39

Seoul Sights Highl i ghts 40 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ £ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ £ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ £ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ R R R R Han River (Hangang) Seoul National University World Cup Park Sindaebangsamgeori Sinjeongnegeori Yangpyeong World Cup Stadium Daerim Jangseungbaegi Gaebong Hongje Yeongdeungpogu Office Singil Boramae Sindaebang Oryu-dong Dorimcheon Yeongdeungpo Market Nakseongdae Gurogongdan Mullae Cheolsan Yangcheon-gu Noryangjin Office Guro Seoul National University Dangsan Kkachisan Sadang Daebang Omokgyo Sangdo Garibong Bongcheon Sindorim Isu Jeungsan Namseong Sinjeong Namtaeryong Yeouido Susaek Dongjak Guil Sinpung Gwangmyeong Soongsil University Yeouinaru Yeongdeungpo Nodeul Heukseok Gubanpo Gayang Jeungmi Deungchon Yeomchang Sinmokdong Seonyudo Subway Mok-dong Seoksu Siheung Aeogae Gongdeok Ewha Womans University Ahyeon Mapo Mapo-gu Office Mangwon Hapjeong Daeheung Hyochang Park Chungjeongno Yongsan Sinyongsan Ichon Seobinggo Dongnimmun National Assembly Saetgang Gangbyeon Expwy Olympic Expwy SEODAEMUNGU MAPO-GU GWANAK-GU YEONGDEUNGPOGU DONGJAKGU YEOUIDO JUNG-GU GANGSEOGU YONGSANGU Baengnyeonsan (216m) Ansan (296m) Gwanaksan (632m) /·57 /·55 /·99 /·2 /·6 /·88 /·77 /·57 See Hongdae Map (p49) 4¼77 ¼/88 #2 Bukchon Hanok Village #3 Cheong-gyecheon Bukaksan#4 #5 Namdaemun Market #6 Hongdae Inwangsan#8 #9 Dragon Hill Spa #10 Han River See Insa-dong Map (p79) See Myeong-dong Map (p46) 1Soak up the serenity of the Secret Garden at World Heritage–listed Changdeokgung (p43). 2 Lose yourself in the picturesque streets of Bukchon Hanok Village (p43). 3 Take a break from the city with a stroll beside the Cheong-gye-cheon (p43). 4 Hike the old city walls to the summit of Bukak-san (p52) for panoramic views. 5 Shop until you drop in Myeong-dong and the all-night Namdaemun Market (p86). Seoul Highlights

Seoul Sights Highl i ghts 41 # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ R R R R Han River (Hang ang) Seoul Grand Park Achasan Seoul Racecourse Park Hanyang University Myeonmok Suseo Sinseol-dong Jangji Ttukseom Seonbawi Dogok Oksu Gaepodong Eung-bong Anam Daechi Naebang Cheongnyangni Children's Grand Park Guui Yongdap Konkuk University Guryong Irwon Wangsimni Yongmasan Amsa Hoegi Yangjae Bokjeong Gunja Jegi-dong Janghanpyeong Sindap Bomun Yaksu Seongsu Gwangnaru Cheonggu Cheonho Dapsimni Daecheong Junggok Beotigogae Korea University Sangwangsimni Sagajeong Majang Singuemho Maebong Haengdang Nambu Bus Terminal Geumho Bangbae Munjeong Munjeong Gachon University Gyeongbu Expwy Nambu Ring Rd Wiryeseong-daero Gangdong-daero SEOCHO-GU GWACHEONSI SONGPA-GU SEONGNAM-SI GWANGJINGU SEONGDONG-GU SEONGBUKGU GANGNAM-GU DONGDAEMUNGU Achasan (278m) Daemosan (293m) Umyeonsan (290m) Guryongsan (283m) /·47 /·3 /·28 /·32 /·77 /·50 /·36 /·1 /·99 /·50 /· /·88 37 /·1 /·88 See Gwanghwamun, Jongno-gu & Daehangno Map (p58) Dongdaemun & Around Map (p72) See Jamsil Map (p66) See Itaewon Map (p50) See Apgujieong, Gangnam & Yongsan-gu Map (p53) /·43 #1 Changdeokgung #7 Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park #¡ e# 0 2 km 0 1 mile 6 Party the night away at the bars and clubs of Hongdae (p74). 7 Marvel at the space-age architecture of Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (p51). 8 Listen to shamans’ chants on the hills of Inwangsan (p50). 9 Soak and sweat away your stresses at the Dragon Hill Spa (p56). a Hire a bicycle and pedal around Yeouido and beside the Han River (p57).

Seoul Sights 0000000 0000000 # # ¦ ¦ #5 #6 #10 #2 #1 #9 #12 #7 #8 #11 UNNIDONG SOGYEOKDONG GAHOEDONG ANGUKDONG JONGNO-GU BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE Unhyeongung Samcheong Park Gamgodang-gil Yulgok-ro Samildaero Yunposun-gil Bukchon-ro Gyedong-gil Samcheong-ro Cheongwadae-ro Samcheong-ro Yulgok-ro Bukchon-ro 5na-gil Anguk (Exit 3) Anguk (Exit 1) '€ &~ #3 #4 0 200 m e# 0 0.1 miles 2Walking Tour Bukchon Views START ANGUK STATION, EXIT 3 END ANGUK STATION, EXIT 1 LENGTH 3KM; TWO HOURS Take in views across Bukchon’s tiled hanok roofs on this walk around the area between Gyeonbokgung and Changdeokgung. Don’t worry if you get a little lost in the maze of streets – that’s part of the pleasure. This walk is best done early morning or early evening (or even on a moonlit night) to avoid the daytime crowds. From the subway exit turn left at the first junction and walk 200m to 1<counter-end>Bukchon Traditional Culture Center (p43), where you can learn about the area’s architecture. Continue north up Gyedong-gil, an attractive street lined with cafes, boutiques and hanok guesthouses. At the T-junction at the top of the hill is the entrance to 2<counter-end>Choong Ang High School, an attractive early 20th-century education complex that featured as a location in the hit Korean TV drama Winter Sonata. Wind you way back downhill past the 3<counter-end>Gahoe Minhwa Workshop and the 4<counter-end>Dong-Lim Knot Workshop to emerge on the major road Bukchon-ro. Cross over and locate the start of 5<counter-end>Bukchon-ro 11-gil. Follow this narrow street uphill towards the parallel set of picturesque streets lined with hanok in 6<counter-end>Gahoe-dong. To see inside one of the hanok, pause at 7<counter-end>Simsimheon. Turn left and go a few blocks to Bukchon-ro 5na-gil; to the right is a 8<counter-end>viewing spot across Samcheong-dong. Head south down the hill, perhaps pausing for tea at 9<counter-end>Cha Masineun Tteul. Further downhill is a<counter-end>Another Way of Seeing, an art gallery with interesting exhibitions by the vision impaired. Turn left after the b<counter-end>World Jewellery Museum and then right at the junction; on the corner by another tourist information booth, walk up to the park at c<counter-end>Jeongdok Public Library, a prime spot for viewing cherry blossoms in spring and the yellowing leaves of ginkgo trees in autumn. Return to the subway station via Yunposun-gil. Seoul SIGHTS 42

Seoul Sights 1 Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu 광문, 종로구 oGyeongbokgung PALACE (경복궁; Palace of Shining Happiness; Map p58; www.royalpalace.go.kr; adult/child ₩3000/1500; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon Nov-Feb, to 6pm Mar-May, Sep & Oct, to 6.30pm Jun-Aug; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5) Like a phoenix, Seoul’s premier palace has risen several times from the ashes of destruction. Hoards of tourists have replaced the thousands of government officials, scholars, eunuchs, concubines, soldiers and servants who once lived here. Watch the changing of the guard ceremonies at the main entrance Gwanghwamun (광문; 161 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu), then set aside at least half a day to do justice to the compound, which includes a couple of museums, ornamental gardens and some of Seoul’s grandest architectural sights. oChangdeokgung PALACE (창덕궁; Map p58; http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/ main.htm; 99 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu; adult/child ₩3000/1500, plus Huwon ₩8000/4000; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3) You must join a guided tour to look around World Heritage–listed Changdeokgung, the most beautiful of Seoul’s four main palaces. English tours run at 10.30am and 2.30pm; if you don’t care about the commentary then there are Korean tours on the hour. To see the palace’s lovely Huwon section, join tours that run at 11.30am and 1.30pm, with an extra 3.30pm tour March to October. Book online or come early as the Huwon tours are restricted to 50 people at a time. oBukchon Hanok Village NEIGHBOURHOOD (북촌옥마을; Map p58; bukchon.seoul.go.kr; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3) Meaning ‘North Village’, Bukchon, between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, is home to around 900 hanok, Seoul’s largest concentration of these traditional Korean homes. It’s a busy tourist area, but it’s still a pleasure to get lost in the streets here admiring the patterned walls and tiled roofs contrasting with the modern city in the distance. To find out more about the area before you set off to explore, drop by the Bukchon Traditional Culture Center (북촌문센 ; Map p58; %02-2171 2459; http://bukchon. seoul.go.kr/eng/exp/center1_1.jsp; 37 Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)F. oJongmyo SHRINE (종묘; Map p58; %02-765 0195; jm.cha.go.kr; 157 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu; adult/child ₩1000/500; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm WedMon Nov-Feb; bLine 1, 3 or 5 to Jongno 3-ga, Exit 11) Surrounded by dense woodland, the impressive buildings of the Confucian shrine Jongmyo house the ‘spirit tablets’ of the Joseon kings and queens and some of their most loyal government officials. Their spirits are believed to reside in a special hole bored into the wooden tablets. For its architecture and the special ceremonies that take place here, the shrine has been awarded World Heritage status: the most famous ceremony is the Jongmyo Daeje in early May. oJogye-sa TEMPLE (조계사; %02-768 8600; www.jogyesa.kr/user/ english; 55-Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; h24hr; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6) The focus of Jogye-sa is the giant wooden hall Daeungjeon, Seoul’s largest Buddhist worship hall. Completed in 1938, its design followed the Joseon-dynasty style. The exterior is decorated with scenes from Buddha’s life and carved floral latticework, while inside are three giant Buddha statues: on the left Amitabha, Buddha of the Western Paradise; in the centre is the historical Buddha, who lived in India and achieved enlightenment; on the right, the Bhaisaiya or Medicine Buddha, holds a medicine bowl. oCheong-gye-cheon RIVER (청계천; Map p58; www.cheonggyecheon.or.kr; 110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 5) A raised highway was torn down and cement roads removed in this US$384-million urban renewal project to ‘daylight’ this stream. With its landscaped walkways, footbridges, waterfalls and a variety of public artworks, such as the enormous pink-and-blue shell entitled Spring in Cheong-gye Plaza (Map p56), the revitalised stream is a hit with Seoulites who come to escape the urban hubbub and, in summer, dangle their feet in the water. oArario Museum in SPACE MUSEUM (Map p58; %02-736 5700; www.arariomuseum. org; 83 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu; adult/child/youth ₩10,000/4000/6000; h10am-7pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3) Korean business magnate and contemporary-art collector Kam Chang-il has found the perfect home for jewels from his collection at this ivy-clad brick building that’s considered a seminal piece of early 43

Seoul Sights 1970s architecture. The building’s compact, low-ceilinged rooms and labyrinthine layout fit the conceptual pieces, by the likes of Nam Jun Paik, Koo Kang, Lee Ufan, Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Sam Taylor Johnson, like a glove – you never know what artistic wonder lies around the next corner. MMCA Seoul MUSEUM (Map p58; %02-3701 9500; www.mmca.go.kr; 30 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu; admission ₩4000; h10am-6pm Tue, Thu, Fri & Sun, to 9pm Wed & Sat; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 1) Combining architectural elements from several centuries of Seoul’s history, this new branch of the city’s premier contemporary-art museum is a work in progress. The melding of spacious new gallery buildings with the art-deco buildings of the former Defense Security Command compound is impressive, but at the time of research the facility had yet to get a director (because this a politically sensitive appointment) and its shows have met with muted critical reaction. Nonetheless, it’s well worth a visit. Seoul Museum of History MUSEUM (서울역사박물관; Map p58; %02-724 0114; www.museum.seoul.kr; 55 Saemunan-ro, Jongnogu; h9am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 7) F To gain an appreciation of the total transformation of Seoul down the centuries, visit this fascinating museum that charts the city’s history since the dawn of the Joseon dynasty. Outside is one of the old tram cars that used to run in the city in the 1930s as well as a section of the old Gwanghwamun gate. Inside there’s a massive scale model of the city you can walk around as well as donated exhibitions of crafts and photographs. National Museum of Korean Contemporary History MUSEUM (Map p58; %02-3703 9200; www.much.go.kr; 198 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu; h9am-6pm Tue, Thu, Fri & Sun, to 9pm Wed & Sat; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 2)F The last century has been a tumultuous time for Korea, the key moments of which are memoralised and celebrated in this museum charting the highs and lows of that journey. The displays are modern, multilingual and engaging, as well as proof of how far the country has come in the decades since its almost total destruction during the Korean War. Head to the roof garden for a great view of Gyeongbokgung and Gwanghwamun Square. Gwanghwamun Square SQUARE (광문광장; Map p58; Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 4) Upgraded in recent years this broad, elongated square provides a grand approach to Gyeongbukgong and is used for various events (as well as protests). Giant statues celebrate two national heroes: Admiral Yi Sun-sin, 1545–98, who stands atop a plinth at the square’s southern end; and a statue of King Sejong, 1397–1450, who sits regally on a throne in the middle of the square. An entrance at the base of the statue leads down to an underground exhibition (Map p58; Gwanghwamun Sq, Jongno-gu; h10.30am-10pm Tue-Sun; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 4)F with sections on both of the men. National Folk Museum of Korea MUSEUM (국립민속박물관; Map p58; %02-3704 3114; www.nfm.go.kr; 37 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu; h9am-6pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, to 5pm Wed-Mon Nov-Feb; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 1) F Give yourself at least an hour to do justice to this excellent museum, which has three main exhibition halls covering the history of the Korean people, the agricultural way of life and the life of yangban (aristocrats) during the Joseon era. Among the many interesting exhibits is an amazingly colourful funeral bier (it looks like a fantasy Noah’s Ark) – these were used to give the deceased a great send-off. 1 Myeong-dong & Jung-gu 명동, 중구 oN Seoul Tower & Namsan TOWER (Map p46; www.nseoultower.com; Namsan; adult/ child ₩9000/7000; h10am-11pm; gshuttle buses 2, 3, 5) The iconic N Seoul tower (236m), atop the city’s guardian mountain Namsan, offers panoramic views of this immense metropolis from its observation deck. Come at sunset and you can watch the city morph into a galaxy of twinkling stars. Up top is the TICKET TO THE PALACES If you plan to visit Seoul’s four main palaces – Gyeonbukgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung and Deoksugung – you can save some money by buying a combined ticket (₩10,000) valid for up to a month. The ticket is sold at each of the palaces and also covers entry to Huwon at Changdeokgung. 44

Seoul Sights upmarket N.Grill (%02-3455 9297; lunch/dinner from ₩55,000/95,000; h11am-3pm & 5-11pm; bLine 4 to Myeongdong, Exit 3 then cable car) and a cafe. The tower has become a hot date spot with the railings around it festooned with locks inscribed with lovers’ names. Walking up Namsan isn’t difficult, but riding the cable car (Map p46; one-way/return adult ₩6000/8500, child ₩3000/5500; h10am11pm; bLine 4 to Myeongdong, Exit 3) is popular for more good views. oDeoksugung PALACE (덕수궁; Map p46; www.deoksugung.go.kr; 99 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; adult/under 7yr/child ₩1000/ free/500; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 2) One of Seoul’s five grand palaces built during the Joseon dynasty, Deoksugung (meaning Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one you can visit in the evening and see the buildings illuminated. It first served as a palace in 1593 and is a fascinating mix of traditional Korean and Western-style neoclassical structures. The palace’s main gate is the scene of the entertaining changing of the guard ceremony at 11am, 2pm and 3.30pm. oSeoul City Hall ARCHITECTURE (서울시청사; Map p46; http://english.seoul. go.kr; 110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 5) F Looking like a tsunami made of glass and steel, the Seoul City Hall was completely redeveloped in 2013. It is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Korean design; the cresting wave provides shade (like eaves found on palaces and temple roofs) over the handsome old City Hall, which was built from stone in 1926. oCitizens Hall CULTURAL CENTRE (Map p46; %02-739 7733; www.seoulcitizenshall.kr; basement, City Hall, 110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 5) F Head down to city hall’s basement to reach Citizens Hall, a multipurpose space with an interesting mix of multimedia art exhibitions, design shops and a fair-trade cafe. There’s also a 21st-century version of Speakers Corner and Media Wall where locals can express their views. Pick up a map and guide from its information desk. Namsangol Hanok Village CULTURAL CENTRE (남산골옥마을; Map p46; %02-2264 4412; http://hanokmaeul.seoul.go.kr; 28 Toegye-ro 34- gil, Jung-gu; h9am-9pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, to 8pm Nov-Mar, office 10am-5pm; bLine 3 or 4 to Chungmu-ro, Exit 4) F Located in a park at the foot of Namsan, this peaceful village is a wonderful spot to encounter traditional Korean culture. It features five differing yangban (upper class) houses from the Joseon era, all relocated here from different parts of Seoul. Also here is Seoul Namsan Gugakdang (%02-2261 0512; tickets from ₩20,000; hclosed Tue; bLine 3 or 4 to Chungmuro, Exit 4) where traditional music and concerts are staged most evenings. On the right of the entrance is an office that provides free one-hour tours around the village at 10.30am, noon, 2pm and 3.30pm. Sungnyemun GATE (남대문, Namdaemun; Map p46; h9am-6pm TueSun; bLine 4 to Hoehyeon, Exit 5) F Standing alone on an island – in direct contrast to the mayhem around it – Seoul’s picturesque Great South Gate, Sungnyemun (also known as Namdaemun) is one of the capital’s original four main gates built in the 14th century. Its arched brick entrance, topped by a double-storey pavilion, is accessed by pedestrian crossing from Gate 1 of Namdaemun Market. It’s been reconstructed a number times over the years following damage under Japanese occupation and during the Korean War, and most recently after an arson attack in 2008. Seoul Museum of Art GALLERY (서울시립미술관, SEMA; Map p46; %02-2124 8800; www.sema.seoul.go.kr/; 61 Deoksugung-gil, Jung-gu; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 2) F Hosting world-class exhibitions that are always worth a visit, SEMA has ultra-modern, bright galleries inside the handsome brickand-stone facade of the 1928 Supreme Court building. For some special exhibitions an entrance fee is charged. Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral CHURCH (명동성당; Map p46; %02-774 1784; www.mdsd. or.kr; 74 Myeong-dong-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 4 to Myeongdong, Exit 6)F Go inside this elegant, red- and grey-brick Gothic-style cathedral, consecrated in 1898, to admire the vaulted ceiling and stained-glass windows. The cathedral provided a sanctuary for student and trade-union protestors during military rule, becoming a national symbol of democracy and human rights. Its sleek modern plaza entrance adds an intriguing 21st-century touch with designer shops and cafes. 45

Seoul Sights # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ £ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¤ ¤ R w # w w w w w w w w # ô ô # # # # # # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ # # # # # # þ þ þ þ þ þ #ò # # # # æ æ æ æ #÷ # # á â # # # ï ï ï # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # V ý Ü ú ý ú ý í ý ú ú í ü í ú û í í ú ú ý ý û ú û ú # # Ø Ø Dongguk University YEAJANGDONG NAMSAN-DONG NAMCHANG-DONG JUNG-GU INHYUNGDONG JANGCHUNGDONG JUNG-GU SOGONGDONG SEODAEMUN-GU Janchungdan Park Namsan Park Time Capsule Sq Cheong-gye-cheon e S noj - g ad or e Samil-daero Sopa-ro Southern Namsan Circuit So p - a or 1st Namsan Tunnel 2 dn N ma as n uT nnel 3rd Namsan Tunnel o N tr hern Namsan Circuit Jungmuro Deoksugung-gil Sowol-ro Namdaemun Huam-ro Seosomun-ro Chungmu-ro Mareunnae-ro Myeongdong-gil Tongil-ro Supyo-ro Toegye-ro naJ cg uh gn ad - n or Eulji-ro Dongho-ro Toegye-ro Sa me unan- or Sogong-ro Changgyeonggung-ro a N d m mea - nu or Ja gn hc nu dg na - or Namdaemun-ro Namsan (262m) Myeongdong Chungmuro Hoehyeon City Hall Dongguk University Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Euljiro 3-ga Euljiro 1-ga Chungjeongno Euljiro 4-ga Seoul Station Seodaemun Upper Cable Car Station Seoul Seoul City Hall; Citizens Hall Deoksugung N Seoul Tower & Namsan 11 12 1 8 55 56 10 34 33 32 52 53 51 9 5 3 6 30 29 25 24 23 28 27 26 22 48 47 54 50 49 46 41 43 42 4 4 4 5 38 39 37 40 35 36 7 31 2 19 17 15 20 13 18 14 21 16 4 See Dongdaemun & Around Map (p72) #¦ C D E B 2 3 4 F C D E B F 1 A 1 2 3 4 A G G M y e o n g-d o n g 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles e# 46

Seoul Sights Skygarden PARK (Map p46; Seoul Station; bLine 1 or 4 to Seoul Station, Exit 2) Earmarked for completion by the end of 2017, Seoul’s Skygarden is proposed to be what the High Line is to New York, an elevated urban tree-filled park in the heart of the city. It will run along an abandoned stretch of highway overpass near Seoul Station. 1 Western Seoul Ewha Womans University ARCHITECTURE, MUSEUM (www.ewha.ac.kr; Ewhayeodae-gil, Seodaemun-gu; bLine 2 to Ewha Womans University, Exit 2) Come to this venerable university, founded in 1886 by American Methodist missionary Mary Scranton, to view Dominque Perrault’s stunning main entrance, a building that dives six storeys underground and is split by a broad cascade of steps leading up to the Gothicstyle 1935 Pfeiffer Hall. Walking through here feels like experiencing the parting of the Red Sea. Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine MUSEUM (절두산 순교성지; %02 3142 4434; www .jeoldusan.or.kr; 6 Tojeong-ro, Mapo-gu; museum by donation; hshrine 24hr, museum 9.30am-5pm TueSun; bLine 2 or 6 to Hapjeong, Exit 7) Jeoldusan means ‘Beheading Hill’ – this is where up to 2000 Korean Catholics were executed in 1866 following a royal decree, most thrown off the high cliff here into the Han River. Next to Myeong-dong æ Top Sights û Drinking & Nightlife Citizens Hall......................................(see 3) 31 Caffe Themselves.....................................E1 1 Deoksugung..............................................C1 32 Craftworks.................................................E1 2 N Seoul Tower & Namsan.......................E4 33 Neurin Maeul............................................ D1 3 Seoul City Hall..........................................C1 34 Walkabout ................................................D3 æ Sights ý Entertainment 4 Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral ........ D2 Bibap ................................................(see 31) 5 Namdaemun Market..............................C2 35 Jeongdong Theater................................. B1 6 Namsangol Hanok Village.......................F2 36 Jump ......................................................... B1 7 Seoul Museum of Art...............................C1 37 Nanta Theatre..........................................D2 8 Skygarden................................................ B3 38 Nanta Theatre..........................................A2 9 Sungnyemun...........................................C2 39 National Theater of Korea...................... F4 40 Seoul Namsan Gugakdang ....................E2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 10 Makgeolli Makers..................................... A1 þ Shopping 11 Seoul Plaza Ice Skating Rink..................C1 41 Åland .........................................................D2 12 Silloam Sauna ......................................... B3 42 Lab 5..........................................................D2 43 Lotte Department Store......................... D1 ÿ Sleeping 44 Migliore Mall.............................................D2 13 Crib49....................................................... D3 45 Primera .....................................................D2 14 Global Hostel........................................... D3 46 Shinsegae.................................................D2 15 Lotte Hotel Seoul.....................................D1 16 Metro Hotel...............................................D1 ï Information 17 Namsan Guesthouse.............................. D3 47 Canadian Embassy ................................. B1 18 Nine Tree Hotel Myeong-dong.............. D2 48 Chinese Embassy....................................D2 19 Small House Big Door.............................D1 49 French Embassy......................................A2 20 The Plaza...................................................C1 50 German Embassy....................................B3 21 Zaza Backpackers .................................. D2 51 KTO Tourist Information Center........... D1 52 Myeong-dong Tourist Information ú Eating Center.................................................... D1 22 Baekje Samgyetang ............................... D2 53 Namdaemun Market Tourist 23 Congdu......................................................C1 Information Center ..............................C2 24 Gosang ......................................................D1 54 UK Embassy............................................. C1 25 Hadongkwan.............................................D1 26 Korea House.............................................F2 ï Transport 27 Mokmyeoksanbang................................ D3 City Airport Terminal....................(see 56) 28 Myeong-dong Gyoja ............................... D2 55 N Seoul Tower Cable Car .......................D3 N.Grill.................................................(see 2) 56 Seoul Station............................................B3 29 Soo:P Coffee Flower............................... C2 30 Wangbijip ..................................................D1 47

Seoul Sights the chapel (where Mass is held daily at 10am and 3pm), the museum includes some of the grizzly wooden torture equipment used on the Catholic martyrs, 27 of whom have been made saints. There are also books, diaries and relics of the Catholic converts. War & Women’s Human Rights Museum MUSEUM (전쟁과여성인권박물관; Map p49; %02-365 4016; www.womenandwar.net; 20 World Cup Bukro 11-gil, Mapo-gu; adult/child under 14yr/youth 14- 19yr ₩3000/1000/2000; h1-6pm Tue, Thu-Sat, 3-6pm Wed; g6, 15, 7711, 7011, 7016 or 7737, bLine 2 to Hongik University, Exit 1, then) In Korea the survivors of sexual slavery by the Japanese military during WWII (know euphemistically as ‘comfort women’) are respectfully called halmoni (grandmother). When you enter this well-designed and powerfully moving museum you’ll be given a card printed with the story of a halmoni helping you to connect with the tragic history of these women. KT&G SangsangMadang ARCHITECTURE (KT&G상상마당; Map p49; %02-330 6200; www. sangsangmadang.com; 65 Eoulmadang-ro, Mapogu; hshop noon-11pm, gallery 1-10pm; bLine 2 to Hongik University, Exit 5) Funded by Korea’s top tobacco company, this visually striking building is home to an art-house cinema, a concert space (hosting top indie bands) and galleries that focus on experimental, fringe exhibitions. There’s also a great design shop for gifts on the ground floor. The architect Bae Dae-yong called his design the ‘Why Butter Building’ as the pattern of concrete across its glazed facade is said to resemble both butterfly wings and butter spread on toast. 1 Northern Seoul oKorea Furniture Museum MUSEUM (국가구박물관; %02 745 0181; www.kofum. com; 121 Daesagwan-ro, Seongbuk-gu; tour without/ with tea ₩20,000/40,000; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat; bLine 4 to Hangsung University, Exit 6) Advance reservations are required for the hour-long guided tours of this gem of a museum in which 10 beautiful buildings serve as the appetiser to the main course: a collection of furniture, including chests, bookcases, chairs and dining tables made from varieties of wood, such as persimmon, maple and paulownia, some decorated with lacquer, mother of pearl or tortoise shell. Take a taxi here from the subway exit. oGilsang-sa TEMPLE (길상사; %02-3672 5945; www.gilsang sa.or.kr; 68 Seonjam-ro 50-gil, Seongbuk-gu; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; bLine 4 to Hangsung University, Exit 6) This delightful hillside temple is beautiful to visit at any time of year, but particularly so in May when the grounds are festooned with lanterns for Buddha’s birthday. There’s a small teahouse and the temple offers an overnight templestay program on the third weekend of the month. A shuttle bus runs roughly once an hour between 8.30am and 4.30pm to the temple from near the subway exit. Changgyeonggung PALACE (창경궁; Palace of Flourishing Gladness; Map p58; %02-762 4868; http://english.cha.go.kr; 185 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu; adult/child ₩1000/500; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; bLine 4 to Hyehwa, Exit 4) Originally built in the early 15th century by King Sejong for his parents, the oldest surviving structure of this palace is the Okcheongyo stone bridge (1483) over the stream by the main gate. The main hall, Myeongjeongjeon (Map p58), 1616, has lovely latticework and an ornately carved and decorated ceiling. Look out for dates (usually in early May) when the palace is open for night viewing and illuminated, making it a romantic spot – if you can ignore the crowds. Ihwa Maeul NEIGHBOURHOOD (이 벽 마을; Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu; bLine 4 to Hyehwa, Exit 2) High on the slopes of Naksan is one of the city’s old daldongnae (literally ‘moon village’) where refugees lived in shacks after the Korean War. Sixty years later it has morphed into a tourism hot spot thanks to a growing collection of quirky sculptures and imaginative murals on walls along the village’s steep stairways and alleys. It’s a great area for casual wandering, but if you drop by the Lock Museum (쇳대박 물관; Map p58; %02-766 6494; 100 Ihwajang-gil, Jongno-gu; adult/child ₩4000/3000; h10am6pm Tue-Sun; bLine 4 to Hyehwa, Exit 2) you can pick up an English map to the village. The euphemistic name daldongnae alludes to the fact that residents had a great view of the moon from their hovels high on the hillside. There are still wonderful views of the city but try to come early – and certainly avoid weekends – unless you like being surrounded by mobs of selfie-sticktoting tourists. 48

Seoul Sights # # # # # ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ # # # # þ þ þ þ #æ â# # ## # # # # # # # # # # # # # ýý û ý û ý ü ü ú ú û û ú ý û SEOGYODONG YEONNAM-DONG SANGSU-DONG SEOGYODONG Hongik University (Hongdae) Gyeongui Line Park Wau Park Saemulgyeol 2-gil Tojeong-ro Donggyo-ro Yanghwa-ro Donggyo-ro Sinchon-ro World Cup Buk-ro Dabok-g Hongi il k-ro Wausan-ro Eoulmadang-ro Jandari-ro Wausan- ro 19-gil Picasso St Dongmak-ro Dongmak-ro Seogang-ro Seongsan-ro Hongik University Sangsu Gwangheungchang Sinchon Hongik University 1 13 12 8 21 23 20 16 18 17 10 9 5 6 11 22 3 14 7 19 24 4 2 15 25 4 3 1 C B C 2 4 3 1 2 B A A D D Hongdae 0 200 m e# 0 0.1 miles D Roi House (250m) DTuk Tuk Noodle Thai (150m) DSeverance Hospital (200m); Ewha Womans University (600m) Yonsei University (200m)D DJeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine (700m) Hongdae æ Sights 13 M2..............................................................A3 1 KT&G SangsangMadang ....................... A3 14 Magpie ......................................................B3 2 War & Women's Human Rights 15 Wolhyang..................................................C2 Museum .................................................A1 ý Entertainment ÿ Sleeping 16 Café BBang ..............................................C2 3 Lee Kang Ga..............................................A1 17 Club Evans................................................B3 4 Urbanwood Guesthouse........................ B2 18 FF...............................................................B3 5 V Mansion ................................................B4 19 Mudaeruk .................................................A4 20 Su Noraebang..........................................A3 ú Eating 6 Ciuri Ciuri ................................................. A4 þ Shopping 7 Menya Sandaime.................................... A2 21 Free Market..............................................B3 8 Slobbie ..................................................... B2 22 Gentle Monster........................................A3 23 Key.............................................................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife 24 Object Recycle.........................................B2 9 Anthracite................................................ A4 10 Café Sukkara ...........................................C2 ï Information 11 Club MWG................................................ B3 25 XIndie Ticket Lounge..............................A3 12 Labris........................................................ B3 49