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Online magazine for Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Technology inform, reflect and promote Bulgarian and foreign specialists, their research, studies, reports, etc. The site will present the upcoming exhibitions, fairs, conferences, workshops, seminars, participation in competitions, fashion shows and trends, business models, as well as other events in the field of Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Technology.

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Published by Daniel Angelov, 2020-03-22 03:29:35

Number of 6/2019

Online magazine for Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Technology inform, reflect and promote Bulgarian and foreign specialists, their research, studies, reports, etc. The site will present the upcoming exhibitions, fairs, conferences, workshops, seminars, participation in competitions, fashion shows and trends, business models, as well as other events in the field of Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Technology.

Keywords: textiles, clothing, leather

6/2019

СЪДЪРЖАНИЕ / CONTENS

1. ЗАДЪЛЖИТЕЛНО ИЗБИРАЕМИЯ ПРОФЕСИОНАЛЕН ПРЕДМЕТ ЗИПП АКАДЕМИЧНО ИЛИ
ПРОФЕСИОНАЛНО

Боруш Сагунов, Тихомира Влахова, Марияна Въткова..................................................................................3

2.ПОЛУЧАВАНЕ НА ЕСТЕСТВЕНИ ЦВЕТОВЕ ОТ ОРХИДЕИ (ORCHIDACEAE)
Златин Златев, Татяна Павлова ......................................................................................................................5

OBTAINING NATURAL COLOR FROM ORCHIDS (ORCHIDACEAE)
Zla n Zlatev, Tatjana Pavlova............................................................................................................................5

3.STYL KABO..................................................................................................................................................10

4.КОПРИНА И ТЕХНИКИ ЗА ПЕЧАТ ВЪРХУ КОПРИНА
Silkhouse Tsiakiris...........................................................................................................................................15

SILK AND PRINTING TECHNIQUES ON SILK
Silkhouse Tsiakiris...........................................................................................................................................15

5. Ceplex Green - Autumn/Winter 2019/2020: The world’s first recycled membrane made from post-consumer
waste from VAUDE..........................................................................................................................................18

Редакторски съвет: Editorial Board:
Проф. Елсайед Елнашар, Египет Prof. ElSayed A. ElNashar Ph.D, Egypt
Проф. д-р инж. Йован Степанович, Сърбия Prof. Jovan Stepanovich Ph.D, Serbia
Проф. д-р инж. Душан Трайкович, Сърбия Prof. Dušan Trajković Ph.D, Serbia
Проф. д-р инж. Снежана Уросевич, Сърбия Prof. Snežana Urošević Ph.D, Serbia
Проф. д-р инж. Горан Дембоски, Република Prof. Goran Dembovski Ph.D, Republic of North
Северна Македония Macedonia
Проф. д-р Сешадри Рамкумар, САЩ Prof. Seshadri Ramkumar, Ph.D, USA
Проф. д-р Мария Блажева, България Prof. Maria Blajeva, Ph.D, Bulgaria
Доц. д-р инж. Ненад Чиркович, Сърбия Assoc. Prof. Nenad Ćirković Ph.D, Serbia
Доц. д-р инж. Капка Манасиева, България Assoc. Prof. Kapka Manasieva Ph.D, Bulgaria
Доц. д-р инж. Златин Златев, България Assoc. Prof. Eng. Zla n Zlatev,Ph.D, Bulgaria
Гл. ас. д-р инж. Соня Въчинска, България Аssist.Prof. Eng. Sonia Vachinska,Ph.D, Bulgaria
Гл. ас. д-р Кристина Савова, България Аssist.Prof. Kris na Savova,Ph.D, Bulgaria
Д-р инж. Даниел Ангелов, България Еng. Daniel Angelov Ph.D, Bulgaria
Инж. Наташа Сивевска, Република Северна Еng. Natasha Sivevska, Republic of North
Македония Macedonia
Графичен дизайн: Стефка Нейкова Graphic Design: Ste a Neykova
Снимкa първа корица: ©MICAM88 Photo - first the cover: ©MICAM88

За контакти/For Contacts: 2
[email protected]; [email protected]; offi[email protected]

webseite: www.tok-bg.org

online www.tok-bg.org


6/2019 ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

ЗИПП (задължително избираемият и литература, и се предполага, че са натрупали
професионален предмет) и СИП (свободно едни сериозни количества знания по предмета,
избираемият предмет) са част от процеса се решава, че наближават матурите, и трябва
на затвърждаване и надграждане на ЗПП да се увеличат с още няколко часа времето
(задължителна професионална подготовка). за подготовката по предмета. И се намаляват
Като начин за провеждане на учебния процес часовете от ЗИПП по професионалните предмети,
в професионалните гимназии, използването заради които всъщност учениците са постъпили в
на ЗИПП и СИП има за задача да даде на професионалната гимназия, и XII клас е последния
обучаващите се широки академични познания в който те безплатно могат да усъвършенстват
за компютърната техника и технологии. Но за професионалната си подготовка.
съжаление така структурирана, както е в момента,
тя не дава възможност за подготовка на учениците Изхождайки от собствения ми опит
за използването на компютърната техника и като преподавател и собственик на работеща
технологии в различните сфери на икономиката и компютърна фирма и след задълбочен анализ на
търговията, рекламата и бизнес-администрацията учебната програма и добрите европейски практики
. В настоящата статия се прави опит за въвеждане (по конкретно от Техническия колеж в Портсмут,
на добри европейски практики, за преодоляване Англия) стигам до извода, че особено внимание
на този тип проблеми. заслужава преподреждането на последователноста
при поднасяне на учебния материал под формата на
Структурата на ЗИПП и СИП в ЗПП, ЗИПП и СИП за изграждане на специфичните
образователната система на професионалните знания и практически компетентности, и
гимназии е както следва – в XI клас, 2 часа последващо преструктуриране на начина на
по професионални предмети и един час по действие на ЗИПП и СИП.
общообразователни предмети, в XII клас, един
час по професионални предмети и два часа Дисциплините „Процесори и памети за
по общообразователни предмети, за СИП – по РС” и „Дънни платки за РС” са фундаментални за
един час в XI и XII клас . Съдържанието на ЗИПП специалността „Компютърна техника и технологии”
е структурирано така, че учениците да натрупват и „Компютърни мрежи”. Те осъществяват
нови знания върху вече придобити сериозно взаимодействие с други учебни предмети като,
количество основни знания по определен „Проектиране на електронни схеми”, „Периферни
професионален предмет. В процеса на обучение устройства”, „Запомнящи устройства”, Компютърни
се акцентира върху специфичните знания, които мрежи”, Асемблиране на РС”, „Диагностика и
учениците трябва да усвоят, необходими за ремонт”и др. Откачеството итрайността на знанията
тяхната бъдеща реализация. Цикъла обучение по зависи по-нататъшното развитие на ученика.
професионална подготовка започвав XI клас.Пълен Поставих си задача, разбира се с подкрепата на
абсурд, много често се оказва, че в понеделник ръководството на гимназията, в рамките на една
започвам да преподавам ЗИПП, а в петък ЗПП по учебна година да променя както аз смятам за
конкретен предмет. Т.е. процеса на изграждане и уместно, последователноста на преподаване с
надграждане започва почти едновременно. помощта на ЗПП и ЗИПП, на учебните предмети
„Процесори и памети за РС” и „Дънни платки за
Абсурдите не свършват до тук. След като РС” в XI a и XI б, и под формата на изхдящ контрол
почти целия си съзнателен живот, учениците да проверя, води ли всичко това до повишаване на
са прекарали в изучаване на български език качеството и трайността на знанията на ученика.

online www.tok-bg.org 3


ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И 6/2019
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

За целта бяха прередактирани самите на учебния материал по горе споменатите
учебни програми по „Процесори и памети за РС” дисциплини е представена на фиг.1.
- ЗПП, „Дънни платки за РС” – ЗПП, „Процесори
и памети за РС”- ЗИПП и „Дънни платки за РС” - Разбира се възможни са и други
ЗИПП. А освен това те намериха ново място в 36 комбинации между ЗПП и ЗИПП, но според мен
седмичното обучение на учениците. Тук трябва по важното е ЗИПП да е задължително след ЗПП,
да уточня че, XI a клас изучаваха „Дънни платки или поне паралелно но с финалната му част. И не

фиг. 1

за РС” – ЗИПП а XI б клас „Процесори и памети за на последно място, материала по ЗПП да включва
РС”- ЗИПП. Самите преработени учебни програми информация за компютърната техника до 2005-
и респективно разпределение на учебното време 2006 год., а по ЗИПП от 2000 год., до настоящето
се намират на http://www.apgek.com/zip/. Една му развитие.
примерна последователност на поднасянето

online www.tok-bg.org 4


6/2019 ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

This study represents the meaning, feasibility and usefulness of the color of orchid flowers as a source of
inspira on for dresses design. For objec ve representa on of these colors is used processing of pictures
of orchids in Matlab environment. Firstly the picture is divided in three major color channels R, G and B
and the minimum, maximum and the mean value of color components is taken into account. Based on the
obtained colors can be made sketches of dresses. These sketches would be the basis for making a survey of
consumer opinion on the use of this color in the design of garments.
Keywords: Orchid, Color models, Color features, Online color extrac on tools

Резюме: Ключови думи: Орхидея, Цветови модели,
Цветни характеристики, Онлайн инструменти за
В това изследване е представен смисъла, извличане на цветове
приложимостта и полезността на цвета на цветята 1.Introduc on
орхидеи, като източник на вдъхновение за дизайн Orchid: mysterious, beautiful, captivating and
на облекла. За обективно представяне на тези elegant. The orchid is associated with different
цветове са използвани техники за обработка symbols. For example, the flower is a symbol of the
на изображения на орхидеи в Matlab среда. На city of Shaoxing in China. It is a national flower in
първи етап, изображението е разделено на три Venezuela and Colombia, as well as in Singapore,
основни цветови канала R, G и B, като се взема Costa Rica.
предвид минималната, максималната и средната The orchids originate from the Mediterranean and
стойност на цветовите компоненти. Въз основа на are depicted in Ara Pacis in Rome, known from
получените цветове могат да се направят проекти antiquity works, as well as from early European art
на облекла. Тези проекти ще бъдат основа за
проучване на потребителското мнение относно 5
използването на тези цветове при проектирането
на облекла.
online www.tok-bg.org


ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И 6/2019
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

[7]. For centuries, the orchid has drawn attention not like a blue reflection in a cool lake, puts the “Amethyst
only to shared shared values, behaviors and practices Orchid” (Pantone 17-3628) in the top ten colors used
that are characteristic of an organization or group, but by designers. This color is a pearl in the crown of the
also for whole countries. Her rich history reveals her palette of colors for autumn 2015. It is intriguing, lively,
transformation from a botanical flower to an artists’ sensitive, enigmatic, incredible, creative and exciting
inspirational object. color [5].
The orchid is a flower that everyone likes on the From the study of creation and development, the
ground because of the beauty of bright colors and the research and application of flower-like orchid color,
mysterious symbolism that it emits. At the end of the used by artists, designers of clothing, interior design,
nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth jewelery, shows that this color is actual and maintains
century there was talk of “Mania to the orchid”, which its position among other well-known colors and has
pointed to its importance for decorative art. Top long been used in these areas for years [2,4,5].
designers from 1889 to 1925 transform the exquisite This is a prerequisite for making surveys about the
colors of the plant into jewelery for elite customers timeliness of this color in the years to come, creating
and collectors. These wonderful forms influence the fashion patterns using the color of the orchid to inspire
botanical studies in the period 1820-1850 [6]. designers in fashion design and fashion trends.
The interest in orchid color does not stop over the years To achieve this goal, it is appropriate, in the spirit of
to the present day. The color “orchid” is a rich purple large research and color grouping companies such as
color, resembling the color of the plant of the same Pantone, to use the colors used objectively, by means of
name. The known variations of this color are “rose”, percentages of color components of one of the known
“wild” and “dark” orchids. color models (RGB, HSV, Lab, CMYK).
The first use of the “orchid” for color name dates back 2.Exposure
to 1915 [8]. In 1987, the color “orchid” was included For the purpose of the study, orchids (Orchidaceae)
in color chart X11 (R=85% G=44% B=84%). After the were shot with a digital camera Olimpus SZ-14 (Olympus
introduction of the Internet since 1991, this color Corpora on, japan). Default device settings are used.
scheme has been called „X11 web colors“ [10]. Color digital images are reduced to 640x480 pixels.
The color “orchid” is similar to that of the color markers The images are processed in the GNU Octave
produced by the American company “Crayola” [3] environment. They are imported into the workspace of
under the name “Desert Flower”. Such a color is also the program product. The three color channels of the
available in a Pantone [9] known under its 15-1435 TPX RGB color model have been obtained and a histogram
color matching system. „Sand dollar“ is a color similar is obtained.
to „orchid“ and is number one for 2006. It is considered
a neutral color that expresses concern about the Figure 1 shows the histograms for each color component
economy [1]. of the image and the minimum, mean, and maximum
While the color selected for 2013 (Pantone 17-5641 values of each color component in the histogram were
“Emerald”) is a symbol of development, renewal and recorded with the datatip function of Figure.
prosperity, for 2014, a color is proposed that is beyond
the color wheels until then, it is a joy to the eye and Figure 2 shows the three orchids of different colors.
it flames the imagination, it’s fabulous a combination Below each picture are presented the values of the RGB
of purple and pink shades, inspires confidence and color components and the cells in the table are colored
radiates joy, love and health. in the obtained color from the combination of the three
In 2014 the color of the year in the interior design and components and their values are also indicated. For
clothing becomes “Radiant Orchid” (Pantone 18-3224 example, for orchid 1, R component changes its values
TPX). It radiates joy, love and health and is referred to from 92 to 189, G component 4 to 64, B component 31
as an inspiring color that complements the good mood to 128.
in the home.
The deep, contemplative and composed color, looking 6
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6/2019 ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

R component histogram G component histogram B component histogram
Fig.1. Obtain histograms for three color components of the RGB model (for orchid 1)

Fig.2. Original images with color component values from the RGB model

The presented method for obtaining, processing  Specific requirements that measurements
and analyzing images requires programming and require as an easy way of tuning, measurement
measurement knowledge of the meter. capability in different color models, measurement
range, possibility to use the results obtained offline;
Today there are many online applications that can  System requirements to the images used to
be used to measure color in digital images. Different work with the software, such as image resolution
Internet sources use a wide range of benchmarks for limits that can be processed.
benchmarking and benchmarking of existing image A comparative analysis of online tools used to extract
coloring software. colors from color digital images of orchids is made.
Colors are extracted primarily in a RGB color model
Due to the specificity of the subject area, it may and hexadecimal values. In online tools with a fixed
be considered necessary to perform the analysis number of colors, 5 to 10 colors are obtained from
presented in Table 1 in the following main directions: the image.
The choice of color model is one of the main topics
 General colorimetric application in the areas of design, printing. This is because of the
requirements that apply to most measuring specificity of each production and product.
computer programs. These include: assessment of
the design, structure and navigation system in the 7
software;

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ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И 6/2019
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

Table 1. Online systems for extracting color from digital images

Name Internet address Color Additional functions
http://www.zonums.com models
Color Extractor http://www.colorexplorer.com Automatically
RGB determines the number
Color Explorer http://mkweb.bcgsc.ca oRfectroielovress 10 colors,
https://www.colorcodepicker.com RGB и HEX extra features for
Image color palettes and color
summarizer https://labs.tineye.com RGB, HSV, mCoaltocrhsintagtistics, their
Image Color LCH и Lab names, histograms,
Picker hhttttpp:s/://c/owlworwm.cinadn.vioa.com RGB, HEX и choice of up to 10 colors
http://colorhunter.com and resolution
Color http://www.cssdrive.com HSL
extraction http://www.colr.org/ Retrieves 10 colors
http://www.palettefx.com/ HEX
CCoalnovramind Shows the area
Color hunter HHEEXX occupied by this color,
Colors palette HEX the names of the
generator HEX individual recognized
Colr RGB. HSB, colors, the background
HEX color and the
Color Palette RGB, HSL, surrounding objects can
FX HEX RbRReeeetttrrrreiiieeemvvvoeeevssse555dcccooolllooorrrsss,
remove the background
cBorilgohr t, medium and dark
Apanlaeltytesis of one of the
cAonlaolryssis of one of the
colors, shows examples
with brushes, paints,
materials

Each of them uses a different color space, but in order It has been found that extracting color from orchid
to have product information portability, they need to digital images makes it advisable to use ready to use
prepare for the next stages in certain ways. For this online applications, as image processing and image
reason, choosing the right color model is of particular analysis software requires the programming skills and
importance. experience of the meter.

3.Conclusion 4.References
[1] Atanasova, P., Analysis of the produc on
In the present work a so ware tool is presented for
measurement of color in orchids digital images. This specializa on of the regional economy,
system is suitable for application in educational and Interna onal conference of technics technologies
scientific activities at the faculty “Technology and and educa on ICTTE, October 18-19th, 2018.
Technologies” - Yambol, because it is possible to get [2] Baycheva, S., Applica on of devices of
complete information about the object measurements measurement of color in analysis of food products.
at the pixel level, instead of in individual parts of the Innova on and entrepreneurship – Applied
object, as for example in the standard colorimeters.
online www.tok-bg.org 8


6/2019 ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

scien fic journal, Vol.4, No.4, 2016, ISSN 1314- [6] Maerz and Paul, A Dic onary of Color New
9253, pp.43-59 York:1930 McGraw-Hill Page 200; Color Sample of
[3] Crayola, h ps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crayola Orchid: Page 105 Plate 41 Color Sample F5
(available on 02.11.2018)
[4] Dineva, P., J. Ilieva, Fashion design of silhoue es [7] Orchidaceae Brief Summary, h p://eol.org/
with the use of 3D elements. ARTTE Applied pages/8156/details (available on 03.07.2015)
Researches in Technics, Technologies and
Educa on, Vol. 4, No. 2, 2016, ISSN 1314-8796, [8] Orchidaceae, h ps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
pp.85-91. Orchidaceae (available on 01.07.2015)
[5] Kazlacheva, Z., P. Dineva, An Inves ga on of
Pa ern Making of Twisted Draperies. ARTTE [9] Pantone, h p://www.pantone.com/ (available on
Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and 05.07.2015)
Educa on, Vol. 5, No. 2, 2017, pp. 85-93
[10] X11 Color Names, h p://www.htmlportal.net/
colors/x11-colors.php, (available on 12.06.2015)

ОНЛАЙН СПИСАНИЕ ЗА ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ
със ISSN 2535-0447 публикува, информира, отразява и популяризира български и
чуждестранни специалисти, техните научни разработки, изследвания, доклади и
др. Ние Ви предлагаме това БЕЗПЛАТНО !!! в сайта и в електронното списание.

На сайта може да намерите актуална информация за предстоящи изложения,
панаири, конференции, работни срещи, семинари, участия в конкурси, модни

ревюта и тенденции, бизнес модели, както и други събития
в ресор ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ.

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6/2019 ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

Presenta on of the advantages of silk and of different prin ng techniques on silk.
Keywords: silk, prin ng, digital prin ng, materials, fabrics, fashion, silk produc on, Greek silk

INTRODUCTION From the common household (such as bed sheets,
4000 years now since the silk was discovered, a curtains, tablecloths, etc.) to the high fashion
designs and accessories (such as foulards and
material that remains meless all this years. It clothed scarves)
royal es and palaces, inspired the greatest couture’s Respectively, the fabric printing methods are
to create the most impressive cloths in history. It is a all different, so every fabric should be printed
material with many advantages and huge poten als. accordingly to its kind.

The silk and the high fashion are two synonyms The mulberry tree cultivating:
words that with the help of the digital prin ng finds The mulberry tree has a huge advantage in
more and more uses over the last years. comparison with the other agricultural cropping:
Low water consump on
EXPOSITION Almost zero need in fer lizing
The human from the first years of his appearance Very low cost of farming
on this planet was looking for ways to dress Low vegeta on
himself. He started from using an animal skin, and Shade
later on spinning and weaving his cloths. Berries rich in an -oxidant substances
Besides the animal skins, he started to use their fur
and wool for weaving, and also discovered other Natural protein fibers
sources of threads such as co on, linen and silk. • The most important fibers of this category are
It’s a fact that the silk has been used in China since
2650 B.C. the wool and the silk.
The silk in China, the wool in Europe and M. • Their basic materials are the proteins, which
East, the co on in India and America is used since
3000B.C. are macromolecules with structural units, the
From the late 18th century the thread produc on a-amino acids.
overcame the homemade and started using • The number and the type of the amino acids
mechanical and chemical means (weaving, varies according to the type of the fiber.
bleaching, etc.), while the co on was established
as the most widely used material. 15

Today the printed fabrics have a significant part
in the daily life of people, and every fabric is
assigned for different purposes.
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ПЪРВА БРАНШОВА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ "ТЕНДЕНЦИИ И ИНОВАЦИИ В ТЕКСТИЛНАТА И 6/2019
МОДНАТА ИНДУСТРИЯ"

9 НОЕМВРИ 2018 Г., МЕЖДУНАРОДЕН ПАНАИР ПЛОВДИВ БЪЛГАРИЯ
THE FIRST BRANCH CONFERENCE “TENDENCIES AND INNOVATIONS IN THE TEXTILE AND

FASHION INDUSTRY”
9th NOVEMBER 2018 IN INTERNATIONAL FAIR PLOVDIV, Bulgaria

The unprocessed silk consists of: using inkjet printers.
 The sericine (silk glue) 22-25%  It does not demand color produc on every
 Fibroin (silk) 63-67%
 Water 10-11% me, so, as a result it gives us a cost reduc on
 Other components (colorings, salts, and eliminates the waste harmful for the
etc.) 1-1,5% environment, while it only uses as much color
as it is needed.
The silk has great durability, great resilience,  Small rangepremises withlowcost maintenance
so texture, good pain ng performance. It is  Lower environmental pollu on (70% less waste
the most expensive natural weavable fiber. of water comparing to the tradi onal prin ng
methods)
 Lower electricity consump on (saving up to
60%

Prin ng is the color and design transfer to white or
colored tex le
Prin ng techniques:

• Roller prin ng
• Silk screen prin ng
• Flat screen prin ng
• Rotary screen prin ng
• Hand screen prin ng
• Heat transfer prin ng
• Dye sublima on prin ng
• Digital prin ng

The advantages of digital prin ng CONCLUSION
 In digital prin ng there’s no need for cylinders, The silk is a unique material with great poten als.
plates or other prin ng matrixes for the ink
transfer. It stands head and shoulders above all the rest of the
 In this case the prin ng is being realized materials for its beauty as well as its durability. And in
directly from the computer to the tex le, by combina on with the digital prin ng the op ons are
endless.

МЕЖДУНАРОДНА КОНФЕРЕНЦИЯ ПО ТЕКСТИЛНО ИНЖЕНЕРСТВО TEXTI
LEENGG 2019 / INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON TEXTILE ENGINEERING

TEXTILEENGG 2019

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Ceplex Green-
Autumn/Winter 2019/2020: The world’s first recycled membrane made

from post-consumer waste from VAUDE

Closing the loop. For the first me, a water and windproof polyester membrane made of post-consumer re-
cycled materials, such as used PET bo les, is being applied in VAUDE clothing. The Ceplex Green membrane
in the current version of the Miskan So shell Jacket has opened up a new chapter in sustainable weather
protec on.
We can learn a lot from nature. Nature is constantly repea ng itself – and yet, it is also constantly reinvent-
ing itself. There is no residual waste in the eternal natural cycle of becoming and passing away. All biologi-
cal substances decompose and are put together into something new. Can this principle also be applied to
outdoor clothing?
"A completely closed cycle for raw materials is the long-term goal," says Antje von Dewitz, Managing Di-
rector of the outdoor specialist, VAUDE. Now, for the first me, the outdoor supplier has succeeded in

developing a membrane with genuine recycled polyester material (post-consumer waste). With the latest 17
membrane development, Ceplex Green, which will be presented at ISPO Munich 2019, the Te nang-based
company is once again taking a leap forward in green innova on.
The environmentally friendly Ceplex Green membrane is used in the latest version of the warm Miskan
So shell Jacket II, an advanced technical jacket for hiking and extended expedi ons into the great outdoors.
The environmentally friendly Ceplex Green membrane consists of 50 % recycled materials, primarily from
post-consumer PET bo les. A variety of windproof and breathable material zones are used for sophis -
cated temperature regula on. The stretchy polyester outer fabric, ar culated sleeves and adjustable hood
provide more comfort for high-ac on undertakings. Of course, the water-repellent Eco Finish impregna on
used is 100 % PFC-free, as is the case with all VAUDE apparel.
Eco-logical! – a closed cycle concept for membranes
VAUDE's Head of Apparel, Aaron Bi ner, explains: "Our development is an absolute world first, because
for the first me we are closing the recycling loop. Un l now, recycled membranes were made from
pre-consumer residual materials – in reality, just a highly resource-efficient material u liza on. Now, for
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6/2019

the first me,
Ceplex Green
uses genuine
post-consumer
waste, ac-
tual PET plas c,
primarily from
used beverage
bo les. These
are melted
down and
processed into
new granulate
to create the
star ng mate-
rial. Currently,
we s ll have to
add about 50 %
primary materi-
als to achieve
the molecular
structure of
a func on-
ing, waterproof and vapor-permeable membrane. Of course, we are also con nuing to work on achieving 100 %
recycled content. But environmental protec on goes even further. There are absolutely no problema c fluorocar-
bon compounds in the produc on process, and the water-repellent impregna on of all our jackets is absolutely
PFC-free".

The Miskan So shell Jacket II with its recycled mem-
brane will be available from specialist retailers start-
ing autumn 2019 (RRP 170 EUR); the men's models
come in the colors phantom black, pacific and Bal c
sea, for women they are available in phantom black,
pacific or petroleum.

EcoFinish – an environmentally friendly water-re-
pellent finish

Recycled materials are only a small part of VAUDE's
comprehensive Green Shape product philosophy.
The label stands for environmentally friendly, func-

onal products made from sustainable materials
and with socially responsible produc on a ributes.
Since the summer of 2018, all VAUDE apparel has
been produced with Eco Finish, an environmentally
friendly water-repellent finish without fluorocar-
bons (absolutely no harmful PFCs). In other product
groups, such as backpacks, shoes and tents, only a
small number of individual models are not yet PFC-
free. As part of the Greenpeace Detox Commitment,
VAUDE is commi ed to completely elimina ng PFC-
containing substances in all its products by 2020 at
the latest.

online www.tok-bg.org Photo: ©VAUDE
Source: www.vaude.com

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