THIRD EDITION more than time
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J une 12 has always been important to me (it’s my birthday!) but from now on it will have even more significance because June 12, 2023 marked the official opening of the City of Dreams Mediterranean Integrated Resort in Limassol. For 24 months we had been working our socks off to create, deliver and finally open the first Haute Horlogerie boutiques in Cyprus. Everyone worked so hard – we exchanged more than 4,000 emails, held hundreds of meetings and travelled back and forth from Nicosia to Limassol on a daily basis – but we knew from the start that the result would be great. Now, it’s not only my friends who are calling me with congratulations but reporters haven’t stopped ringing to find out more about the opening of these four groundbreaking luxury boutiques. Everyone appears to understand how very important this project has been to me. My team at work may know nothing about football but to me they are champions! Like every good coach, I’ve just been responsible for the tactics: the team had to implement them and in my team I’ve got leaders. As the saying goes, ‘When the going gets tough, the tough get going’ and my team are not only tough; they are better than any dream team I’ve ever seen in any sport. They have proven time and time again that they’ve got the right spirit and I am extremely proud of them. Without them, I am just a manager behind a desk. June 12 now seems a long time ago. Fast forward to November 15, which brought four events and another opening of three more Swarovski stores, one of which is the very first of its kind in Cyprus and Greece. Once again, everyone on the team accepted the challenge without complaint. Each one supported and encouraged the other. So, Alexia, Margarita, Eleni, Socrates: Thank you. To everyone else: Enjoy reading our special publication. Evagoras Charalambous General Manager PS: Myria, you may not be an official part of my team but you rock! PPS: Team, next year please avoid opening stores on my birthday. Let’s party instead. PPPS: Friends, I promise that all the time lost in 2023 will be regained soon. What a year 2023 has been for VASSOS ELIADES ACCESSORIES LTD! WELCOME NOTE
CONTENTS VEA & VEX General Manager Evagoras Charalambous Creative Team VEA & VEX Margarita Minneaux Socrates Kyriacou Alexia Theocharous Published by IMH CEO George Michail General Manager Daphne Roditou Tang Media Manager Elena Leontiou Project Coordination Artemis Constantinidou Feature Stories Marianna Nicolaou Art Direction Anna Theodosiou Graphic designer Stavros Lambrou Photography Giorgos Charal Michalis Kyprianou Commercial Manager Neofytos Constantinou Advertising Executive IN Business Magazine Marina Nicolaidou IMH 5 Aigaleo St., Strovolos 2057, Nicosia, Cyprus Mailing address: P.O.Box 21185, 1503, Nicosia, Cyprus Tel: +357 22505555, Fax: +357 22679820 e-mail: [email protected] www.imhbusiness.com 4 | WELCOME NOTE 6 | BREGUET The Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 and the strong comeback of TYPE XX. 10 | CARTIER The Panthère de Cartier and the myth of the Santos de Cartier watch. 16 | DAMIANI Five must-have jewellery collections. 22 | GLASSHÜTTE ORIGINAL 20 years of PanoMaticLunar and the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. 28 | HUBLOT The Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold and the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski. 34 | IWC Two new Big Pilot watches, a limited edition Portugieser and the new Top Gun ‘Oceana’ colour. 40 | JAEGER-LECOULTRE The Manifesto of Excellence and the 1931 Golden Flowers. 46 | OMEGA The Seamaster collection, the Aqua Terra Shades and the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer. 52 | PANERAI The contemporary Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech and the Luminor Bitempo. 58 | ZENITH The new Pilot collection and the updated Chronomaster Sport line. 64 | MONTBLANC The Sartorial collection and the Maria Callas special edition. 70 | SWAROVSKI The collaboration with SKIMS and the campaign by Steven Meisel. 76 | SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES 78 | STYLE IS A STATE OF MIND Interview with Alexia Theocharous, Sales Manager at VE Very Exclusive Accessories Ltd. 82 | NEW BOUTIQUES AT THE CITY OF DREAMS MEDITERRANEAN Cartier, Hublot, Zenith and Damiani. 90 | TURNING VISION INTO REALITY Interview with Myria Constantinidou, Founder of Myria Constantinidou Architects. 92 | EVENTS This year’s glamorous events by Zenith, Swarovski, IWC, Cartier and Omega. 98 | STORE LOCATIONS
| 6 |BREGUET BREGUET Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 In the 1780s, Abraham-Louis Breguet enjoyed great success with his so-called perpétuelle watches equipped with an à secousses (moving) oscillating weight enabling the calibre to react to the wearer’s body movements and thus automatically wind the mechanism as they walked. These watches often incorporated a calendar mechanism and it was also on these models that Breguet experimented with his first guilloché silvered dials. In 2023, Breguet pays tribute to it within its Classique collection through a reinterpretation of the perpetual calendar in two gold colours.
| 7 | The new Quantième Perpétuel 7327 by Breguet reflects the very essence of the brand: a timepiece that is simple to use for its wearer yet complex in its realisation. This fascinating watchmaking function born in the 18th century displays the exact date, taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this feat, the movement must have a four-year mechanical “memory” corresponding to 1,461 days. The mechanism is based on a gearing system from the hour’s wheel and a large central lever that drives the entire movement on a daily basis. For this reason, no less than 294 components are required to bring this model to life. One of Breguet’s key objectives was to offer a light and comfortable timepiece and the Manufacture has thus opted for Calibre 502 with an additional calendar mechanism. At just 4.5 mm thick, the 502.3.P movement remains one of Breguet’s thinnest. It is designed to provide a high level of performance despite its thinness. Its barrel is open, contributing to its slenderness while guaranteeing constant, powerful energy. Its gold oscillating weight is off-centred to provide maximum space for the movement’s main components, enabling it to be integrated to a minimum thickness. This self-winding movement is rhodium-plated, beats at a frequency of 3 Hertz and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a flat silicon balance-spring and an inverted straight-line escapement with silicon horns. Silicon has many properties, in addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the watch’s precision. Its movement, which can be admired through the sapphire case back, highlights a skill dear to Breguet: decoration. The gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn motif, the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, and the other components are finished with chamfered edges and likewise with Côtes de Genève. This highly precise craftsmanship is performed by the artisans in the Manufacture located in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. A TIMEPIECE WITH AN UNDERSTATED DESIGN As fascinating on the movement side as on the dial, the new creation by Breguet features a timeless aesthetic, recalling the brand’s distinctive features in a contemporary spirit. The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. Located between 1 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase has been designed to provide a strong sense of realism, notably thanks to its hand-hammered surface. Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on how the timepiece is turned. The day, date and year indicators are harmoniously entwined at the base of the dial. A quarter-circle bewteen 10 and 11 o’clock indicates the months via a retrograde hand. The hours and minutes are indicated by the traditional eccentric “moon” tip watch hands in blued steel. The secret Breguet signature, created by the founder in 1795, appears between 11 and 12 o’clock as well as between 12 and 1 o’clock. Finally, adjustments of the various dial indications are completed from several positions on the 39 mm case. A corrector stylus serves to adjust the day at 4 o’clock; the different moon phases between 4 and 5 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and finally the month and the year at 9 o’clock. The time is set via the crown located at 3 o’clock. THE CLASSIQUE COLLECTION Both functional and emblematic, the Classique collection faithfully illustrates the aesthetic codes dating back to the brand’s origins. In addition to his talent as a watchmaker and inventor, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also one of the first designers well before the term was coined. When the company was founded in Paris in 1775, the baroque style was in vogue. He invented and introduced the neoclassical style to watchmaking. This aesthetic vision gave the dials an avant-garde look while making it easier to read the indications. He created the eccentric “moon” tip watch hands, the guilloché pattern and the off-centre dial, to name but a few. The latter design was used on pocket watches from 1812 onwards and established the brand’s DNA. Inspired by these creations, the 5327 Quantième Perpétuel joined the line-up in 2004. Its 2023 version is a contemporary embodiment while remaining faithful to the powerful signatures of the Classique line. Available in 18K white or rose gold, this new timepiece is paired with a midnight blue strap for the white gold model and a mysterious brown strap for the rose gold version.
| 8 |BREGUET TYPE XX A STRONG COMEBACK This collection enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years has accompanied the history of aviation – whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. The Manufacture Breguet proudly unveils a redesigned line that is innovative, highly contemporary and brimming with nods to history. The year 2023 brings a new Type XX, new momentum, a new generation and an all-new calibre. Four years of preparation preceded the arrival of the new generation of iconic Type XX watches, this time, issued in two versions to meet all expectations: one military inspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models. Taking cues from the emblematic first-generation models, Breguet has instilled a contemporary, dynamic and technological spirit into these watches. The Type XX saga clearly shows no sign of petering out! TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057 The military heritage This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black dial has been modernized while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity. The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a nonengraved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was that of the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, the one at 4 o’clock for the “flyback” function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer. TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067 The line of civilian versions This second timepiece with its adventurous look is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects. First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle. These two eagerly awaited new additions to the current collection are delivered in a havanacoloured leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing. Enabling owners to vary the look according to their personal wishes, the new chronograph is fitted with a calfskin strap along with an additional black NATO strap contained in its case. The rapid interchange system (RIS) of the bracelets has been designed to enable the easy, independent and tool-free removal of the leather strap. The user can indeed remove both halves of the strap simply by pressing the under-lug correctors to fit another leather strap, simply position the slot at the upper end of the strap on a level with the watch lugs, at a 45 to 60-degree angle. An interlocking system is enough to secure it in place. It takes only a few seconds to switch from a calf leather strap to another leather variant, while the black NATO strap slips between the two bars while passing under the case.
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| 10 |CARTIER The Panthère watch takes its name from the bracelet, which is one of its most characteristic design features. Its ultraflexible structure echoes the movements of the Maison’s emblematic animal. Formed from a series of curved and polished links, it is uniquely supple. The precise proportions of the bracelet and case can be seen in the way the Panthère watch is worn, its elegance determined by its ergonomics as it naturally fits around the wrist. It is this original precision that allows Cartier to rework the proportions of the pieces according to the times without distorting them and to always go further, as it did in 2017 when relaunching the Panthère watch. While staying true to the original, the watch has benefited from several innovations, some remain undetectable, to bring it right up to date. These include the whiter dial, tighter links, the openwork and lacquer pixelated effect. Achieving a tauter bracelet and the removal of the date on the dial further accentuates its jewellery aspects. THE LEGEND AND THE HISTORY When it was launched in 1983, the Panthère de Cartier watch reinvented the concept of a jewellery watch. This best-selling watch was embraced by the fun-loving 80s, proving particularly popular with the art scene. A UNIQUE SPIRIT Above and beyond its design, this watch slinks onto the skin in a rippling celebration of triumphant and carefree femininity. A state of mind embodied by the vibrant and sophisticated icons of the 80s and continued today by a whole new generation of bold and impeccably stylish women. THE PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER WATCH CARTIER The instantly recognisable Panthère de Cartier watch is defined above all by its design. A square with rounded corners, the seamless curve of the horns, and visible rivets: with the Panthère watch, Cartier aspires to clean lines without losing sight of the softness of the lines responsible for the timepiece’s femininity. WATCHMAKING MEETS JEWELLERY
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A VEHICLE FOR ELEGANCE In updating this timepiece, the design studios focused on comfort, intelligent proportions and respect for the Santos aesthetic: - The square shape remains unchanged. It echoes the refinement and symmetry of Parisian geometry of the era, as extolled in the four angular corners of the Eiffel Tower. In giving preference to straight lines, this transgressive shape represented a break with traditional rounded watch shapes. - Also unchanged are the eight screws on the bezel: this functional hardware is a miniature tribute to the proliferation of mechanical steel structures associated with a golden age of urban architecture. Here, Cartier dared to display a functional element that had been hitherto concealed. The design of the bezel has been updated to favour the synergy between the lines of the case and the strap. These sleeker lines accentuate the stylistic dynamic of the watch. The watch is designed for a perfect fit on the wrist and has been precisely weighted and measured to optimise comfort and ergonomics. MULTI-PURPOSE STRAP The strap is the defining element in the history of the Santos de Cartier, the first modern wristwatch. The original strap was in leather, a totally new material in watchmaking, and left the wearer free of the restrictions of the pocket watch. The new Santos de Cartier watch features an innovative strap in keeping with the spirit of our time. The new strap caters to modern lifestyles and ease of movement, and can be tailored to suit any occasion according to the choice of materials and colours. Available in steel, gold, calfskin or alligator skin, all versions are interchangeable thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch system (patent pending) hidden under the strap. This invisible mechanism blends into the structure of the case and, to activate the system, the wearer simply presses the mechanism. Another cutting-edge feature is the SmartLink self-fitting technology (patent pending) which adjusts the length of the metal bracelet to the nearest link without the use of a tool. At the touch of a button located on each SmartLink, the attachment bar is unlatched and one of the brushed metal links with screws can be added or removed from the Santos de Cartier watch. A CALIBRE AND A TIMEPIECE FOR THE MODERN ERA True to the constant quest for progress that spurred on every new venture for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the 1847 MC automatic calibre and the latest design of the Santos de Cartier watch are ever more ambitious in terms of performance and comfort. ANTI-MAGNETIC The calibre 1847 MC features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, as well as a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy, rendering the calibre effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to in everyday life. WATER-RESISTANCE Thanks to the screw-down assembly design, the new Santos de Cartier offers waterresistance up to 10 bar (~100 meters) with minimal case thickness. The Santos de Cartier watch is proactive in its transformation: this watchmaking classic of the Maison perpetuates the spirit, style and hunger for progress of men who change the world, inspired by Alberto Santos-Dumont. | 12 |SANTOS DE CARTIER Determination, freedom, comfort: the myth of the Santos de Cartier watch has been maintained throughout the successive decades since its creation in 1904 and goes way beyond the legend of Alberto Santos-Dumont. In the age of engineering, at the dawn of the 20th century, its revolutionary design and usage echoed the spirit of speed and progress. Its distinctive aesthetic symbolised the modern era. The Santos de Cartier watch stays true to this original philosophy by reflecting the innovative, everchanging spirit of its own age. CARTIER
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| 16 |DAMIANI F ounded in Valenza in 1924, Damiani is an Italian jewelry company known worldwide for its fine creations. Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art entirely handmade in Italy by skilled goldsmiths and characterized by exclusive designs, great attention to detail and the use of high-quality gems: only the finest stones in terms of purity, colour and cut are selected to adorn the splendid jewels of the brand. The secrets of this fascinating craft have been handed down from generation to generation, from the founder Enrico Damiani to his son Damiano, and then to his grandchildren, Guido, Silvia and Giorgio, who manage the company today, interpreting the brand’s legendary heritage and its underlying values with a progressive look to the future. Valued around the world for the style, design and all-Italian craftsmanship of its creations, the Maison is the only jeweler in the world to have won as many as 18 Diamonds International Awards, the Oscar of the international jewelry world. Damiani’s refined creations have been admired by many stars, including Tilda Swinton, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and Brad Pitt, not to mention Italy’s Isabella Rossellini and Sophia Loren, all of whom have selected the brand to celebrate their successes. Damiani has prestigious single-brand boutiques in the most exclusive luxury shopping and culture capitals in the world, including Milan, Rome, Paris, Dubai, Tokyo, Beijing, Shanghai, Seoul and Moscow, in addition to selective distribution through major department stores and multibrand shops. Damiani is part of the Damiani Group that promotes Italian excellence through the synergistic blend of complementary brands and companies, established or acquired over the course of its history: Salvini, a leading brand in contemporary jewelry; Bliss, which targets a younger audience; Calderoni, a historical Milanese high-end jewelry brand founded in 1840, now a Business Unit of the Damiani Group mainly dedicated to the sale of loose natural diamonds; ROCCA, the only multibrand chain distributing highend jewelry and timepieces in Italy, founded in 1794; and VENINI, founded in 1921, a Murano-based glassmaker whose artistic glassware is on display in leading museums worldwide. DAMIANI A FAMILY, A TRUE ITALIAN PASSION
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| 18 | THE ICONS Every Damiani jewel is a unique work of art, handcrafted by expert goldsmiths and the result of unique designs, great attention to detail and the use of highquality gems. BELLE ÉPOQUE The Belle Époque… a golden era, grandeur and inspiration. It is impossible to remain indifferent to the charm of such a unique historical period, with its exceptional cultural innovation and effervescent joie de vivre. The Belle Époque was the expression of a new world where everything seemed possible with an air of euphoria and creativity. In the late 1800s in Paris, or the Ville Lumière, a new form of expression was born: Cinema. The spark of modernity was vivaciously lit, and in such a “flamboyant” climate it is easy to imagine the founder of the Maison, Enrico Damiani, sitting in his workshop, after a trip to France, determined to shape his impressions and to draw the sketches of what were to become the perfectly sublime jewels of one of his most evocative collections. And it is from these very drawings – springing from an exceptionally creative mind, fascinated by a dynamic idea of the world – that the Belle Époque collection stems. Its innovative geometric design represents a film reel – a symbol of “moving” art – through a succession of diamonds juxtaposed with sapphires, rubies or emeralds, while a further line of diamonds traces its outer profile. This design gives rise to rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces, all hand-crafted by experienced master goldsmiths from Valenza, who reinterpret the euphoric period and the intellectual movement of that epoque with great skill and attention to detail. And indeed, movement is the best word to describe the precious Belle Époque cross, the collection’s best seller, made up of two crosses, one inside the other, that can also be worn separately. These two dynamic elements move in synchronicity with the wearer, reminiscent of the intense energy of the Belle Époque era. The two crosses assemble and disassemble to create precious interactions enhancing E legance, class, savoir-faire and innovation have always distinguished Damiani’s fine jewelry, accentuated by cutting-edge designs and firstrate craftsmanship. The emotions encapsulated in every Damiani jewel reach their greatest expression in the luxurious Masterpiece collection, whose creative development and realisation are personally overseen by Giorgio Damiani, the Group’s Vice President. Damiani’s precious and versatile Masterpieces range from the clarity of the classic diamond to the creative glamour of fancy diamonds, from the tradition of the Minou and Emozioni collections to the innovative elegance of the Mimosa, Margherita and Belle Epoque collections. The brand’s dynamic collections evoke unique and timeless sensations, endowing important occasions with charm and allure, while being the ideal accessories for casual trendy clothing. The meticulous attention to detail with which these masterpieces are created, and the premium quality of the gold, platinum, precious stones and pearls used, have turned Damiani into an ambassador of fine Italian jewelry around the world, winning several prestigious recognitions including 18 Diamonds International Awards, the Oscar of the international jewelry world. MASTERPIECES: OUR PRECIOUS UNIVERSE
| 19 | the radiance of their stones. Over the years, stars such as Sharon Stone, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Aniston, to name a few, have worn this iconic collection, thus making the dreams of the founder Enrico Damiani, who was inspired by the world of cinema for his creation, come true. MIMOSA Mimosa is inspired by the flower of the same name chosen as a symbol of womanhood and femininity: as we know, on March 8th, International Women’s Day, it is customary in Italy to gift Mimosa flowers to celebrate the social, economic, and cultural achievements of women. The collection is composed by rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces and watches: each jewel in this collection is a little work of art: a mosaic of the purest stones, in different shapes and cuts, arranged one next to the other in a wondrous alternation of solid and voids, light and reflections. It’s interesting to remember, that these precious stones are set, just like the Mimosa flower, to create a precious sense of “apparent chaos”, a design that magnifies the jewel’s three-dimensionality and enhances its dazzling brightness. From apparent chaos to meticulous order: through an accurate study of proportions and balance, each creation evokes the magnificent lightness of elegance. MARGHERITA The Margherita collection is inspired by the stylish and fascinating Margherita of Savoy known and celebrated for her refined beauty, her royal poise and her decisive character: the most loved Queen of Italy has fuelled the creativity of Enrico Grassi Damiani, who dedicated a precious floral jewel to her. After nearly a century in the goldsmith’s art, Damiani pays tribute to the refined beauty of this noble lady and her remarkable personality: Queen Margherita’s passion for arts and Damiani’s manufacturing excellence are attentively blended together in rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces of the collection, which gracefully combine precious and semiprecious stones, refined settings and unusual design details, thus bridging the gap between tradition and modernity. The Margherita collection is characterized by an entirely hand-made floral element which evokes the elegance of the Margherita flower: a beautiful blossom much loved in Italy which is often donated by sweethearts to express pure love, genuine emotion and blissful romance. Its linear and geometric design is embellished by precious gems carefully selected by the master goldsmiths of Valenza: harmoniously delicate and romantic, the bright colour combinations – designed with the different colours of gold and diamonds, amethysts, citrine quartzes and sapphires - give these creations a refined and timeless allure. D.ICON Damiani – Donna – Diamante: D means ICON. The D.Icon collection is the latest evolution of the goldsmith’s art: Damiani’s craftsmen of Valenza have introduced Hi-Tech ceramic to the traditional goldsmith process, creating an elegant, joyful and glamourous collection characterized by a unique and modern design. The full circular shapes are accentuated by the beautifully rounded cross-section which winds harmoniously and evokes the D of Damiani, Donna and Diamante, while the gold embellishes the ceramic and the diamonds add a brilliant and exclusive finish to the ring. The rounded and easily recognizable shapes are emphasized by a curved profile that makes D.Icon a unique and cult collection for glamour lovers, modern women, trendsetters and Millennials all over the world who want to play with jewels to create their own style. Over the years, new colours have been added to the D.Icon collection: today the palette ranges from classic black and white to the more trendy shades of Cappuccino and Verde Bosco (forest green), a new colour presented for the first time in Spring 2023. The collection is composed by elegant necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, and thanks to this beautiful range and its different colours, it invites you to play with style! MINOU Minou is the iconic collection of the Maison, celebrating love, elegance and the most classic beauty. Delicate and refined, the innovative design of this collection is recognised by its exclusive “raised”, four- or six-pronged setting for the diamond which emphasises its splendour with absolute lightness. The full pavé version of Minou is enriched with a cascade of diamonds around the central stone and on the stem for an even more precious jewel.
| 22 |GLASHÜTTE GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
| 23 | I n 2003, a watch was born that would come to shape the identity of Glashütte Original like no other model before it. With the design of the PanoMaticLunar, the team at the tradition-rich Saxon manufactory aspired to create a watch that was completely new and yet beautiful beyond time. Twenty years later, the enduring popularity of the elegant timepiece and its magnificent moon phase underscores the success of their mission: in its anniversary year, the PanoMaticLunar remains one of the most popular models in the collection, and Glashütte Original proudly celebrates its unique success story. PERFECT PROPORTIONS Beauty, they say, is in the eye of the beholder – but Glashütte Original has never been content with that. As a result, in creating the Pano Collection the manufactory looked for inspiration in a timeless ideal: The asymmetrical design of its dials has its origins in the Golden Ratio, the law of aesthetic harmony that has fascinated and inspired artists, scientists and architects for centuries. It is not least these “divine” proportions that made the PanoMaticLunar a modern classic with everlasting appeal. UNBROKEN POPULARITY The launch of the PanoMaticLunar in 2003 marked the beginning of a success story that few wristwatches can match. For 20 years, the watch has been one of the best-known and most popular models in the Glashütte Original collection. Its striking design is highly recognisable and has won admirers all over the world. As a timelessly elegant figurehead of fine German watchmaking art, the PanoMaticLunar is inextricably linked to the history of Glashütte Original - a success story that continues every day. A VISUAL DELIGHT Over the years, the design of the PanoMaticLunar has only been lightly revised. The essence has always remained the same: It is the contemporary implementation of a traditional complication. The elaborately crafted moon phase display brings the eternally changing face of the moon to the wrist - a coveted mechanical complication that is also a visual delight. This also applies to the other displays of the PanoMaticLunar. In addition to hours and minutes, it presents a small seconds hand positioned on a vertical axis within the left half of the dial, as well as the moon phase display and the characteristic Glashütte Original Panorama Date on the right side. A VARIED COLOUR PALETTE In 2023, the PanoMaticLunar presents itself in perfectly coordinated colour combinations. Four versions in warmly shimmering red gold and four versions in cool stainless steel are available. The 40mm cases meet handcrafted dials in dark green, deep blue, silver, black or grey. Attention to detail distinguishes each individual model. The Panorama Date display discs, the moon and the starry sky are executed in a range of colours, and the straps – made of fine Louisiana alligator leather, stainless steel or high-quality textile, are harmoniously matched to the respective model. FINELY FINISHED MECHANICS The PanoMaticLunar is powered by the manufactory calibre 90-02, an automatic movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the finely finished mechanical movement and its characteristic Glashütte features – the three-quarter plate with stripe finish, an off-centre rotor, blued screws and a handengraved balance bridge with duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. This type of fine adjustment mechanism goes back to the traditional Glashütte swan-neck fine adjustment and was developed further by Glashütte Original by integrating a second swan-neck spring for maximum precision. With this mechanical engine, the PanoMaticLunar is ideally equipped for everyday use – today and for decades to come. 20 Years of PanoMaticLunar: ANNIVERSARY OF AN UNMISTAKABLE CLASSIC
| 24 | German watchmaker Glashütte Original has reached a milestone in haute horlogerie with its patented Flyback Tourbillon. This technical masterpiece appears to defy gravity when it stops in its tracks, performs a smooth turn and resumes its original position. The Senator Chronometer Tourbillon’s stepped-level design presents this magical dance of precision mechanics on a worthy stage. Limited to only 50 pieces, the new timepiece features a laser-engraved movement visible from the front and a finely crafted dial with recessed day/night indicator, bringing together the latest advances in the high art and craft of watchmaking in Glashütte. The Flyback Tourbillon – a new stage of evolution The tourbillon is considered the most elaborate of all complications in haute horlogerie. With this “whirlwind”, the entire oscillation and escape system rotates around its own axis in the course of one minute. In the year 1920, Glashütte’s master watchmaker Alfred Helwig taught the tourbillon to fly by anchoring the construction on one side only, thus freeing it from the upper part of its cage. And now Glashütte Original’s constructors have succeeded in removing the last obstacles to the tourbillon’s flight. The Flyback Tourbillon solves not one, but two problems that have challenged watchmakers for over a century. When the crown is pulled out, a vertical clutch halts the balance and locks the tourbillon cage in place. When the crown is pulled to its next position and held there, the tourbillon cage swings up smoothly until the second hand at the tip of the cage comes to a stop at the zero marker – a masterpiece of horological artisanship, and a true original. Two patents protect this unique construction and underscore Glashütte Original’s claim to its place as one of haute horlogerie’s leading innovators. IN THE TRADITION OF OPTIMAL ACCURACY As ever, the Glashütte Original team continues its drive to perfect the art of watchmaking and to construct timepieces of unparalleled precision. The Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is thus further distinguished by an innovative minute detent. When the Flyback Tourbillon is set to zero, the minute hand simultaneously moves ahead to the next index. This synchronization of the second and minute hands permits the time to be set with great precision, as one can hear and feel the minute hand jump from one index to the next. THE MANUAL WINDING CALIBRE 58-06: A TOURBILLON WITH CERTIFIED PRECISION In order to put the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon’s rate precision to the ultimate test, each watch is examined by the independent Thuringian Weights and Measures Office to ensure it meets the DIN 8319 official chronometer standard. In the process, the watches undergo a test lasting 15 days, during which they must establish their reliability in five different positions and at three different temperatures. The Chronometer Certificate, delivered with each watch in a fine white oak box, serves as official recognition of the most accurate timepieces of a given generation. In addition, the silicon balance spring protects the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon against the influence of magnetic fields and changes in temperature. The manual winding Calibre 58-06 runs at a frequency of 21,600 half oscillations per hour and has a 70-hour power reserve, whose indicator at 9 o’clock can be read at a glance. DEEP INSIGHT INTO TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION The movement, visible from the front within the 42mm platinum case, reveals just how the Flyback Tourbillon functions. The cleverly designed control mechanism, for example, is visible to the naked eye, as is the damping wheel, which ensures a smooth upward movement when the tourbillon is reset. The entire top side of the movement presents a laserengraved decorative finish. As the laser strips away layer after layer, the Clous de Paris pattern emerges, further enhancing the three-dimensional look of the dial’s stepped levels. The dial and tourbillon cage are mounted like thrones upon two small towers over the movement. The dial carrier conceals an engraving at 12 o’clock that reflects the lettering “Chronometer Tourbillon” on the mirror-polished inner wall of the case. The sketch of a globe on the dial represents the fact that all the experience gained in over 175 years of watchmaking art has come together to form this exceptional timepiece. In addition, the day/night display behind the transparent part of the dial has the heavenly bodies, sun and moon, complete their orbits around the spherical axis once every 24 hours. GLASHÜTTE SENATOR CHRONOMETER TOURBILLON PREMIERE: The art of perfection in Glashütte watchmaking
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PanoMaticCalendar
Very Exclusive Nicosia - Limassol, Tel. +357 22 897 361
| 28 |HUBLOT HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO FULL MAGIC GOLD: full gold, zero compromise
| 29 | Hublot loves to surprise, invent, innovate. We always expect more from the manufacture, in every possible domain: from the sapphire case, to the movement, complications and design, and, of course, the universe of its ambassadors. Only this time, with the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold, Hublot has returned to basics. It all starts with the Big Bang, today instantly recognisable in the world of watchmaking. The iconic 44 mm case, the “sandwich” construction, large pushers, bezel with 6 visible, unaligned, functional screws, case and pusher guard, skeleton dial and interchangeable rubber strap which uses the brand’s own One Click system. The aesthetic is powerful, modern, disruptive. The dial features the full complement of Big Bang signatures: Arabic numerals and skeleton Big Bang hands, beneath which lies the manufacture chronograph movement, the self-winding UNICO 2. Then, there is the exterior. Hublot has skilfully transformed this, raising it to the ranks of a true complication: stronger, more brilliant, more innovative. Always first, unique and different: Magic Gold is the embodiment of this philosophy. The unique alloy has been sublimed in this limited edition of 200 pieces, where the Magic Gold is featured on both the case and bezel. Its hues are echoed on the indices, counters and hands, in satinfinished and microblasted 3N gold. The contrast with the rest of the components of the case is all the more powerful: the titanium pushers, guards, and screws and the rubber strap are all in the deepest black. The contrast will stay eternal. Why? Because that is how Magic Gold was designed to be. It is exclusive to Hublot. Unveiled in 2011, it is a true fusion of 24-carat gold – the ultimate noble and natural material – with the most hightech mastery of ceramic. The result is 18K gold that is patented, unalterable and scratchproof. To give an idea of its hardness, traditional gold has a rating of 400 Vickers. Hardened steel, 600 Vickers. Magic Gold, 1000 Vickers. By injecting liquid gold into the cold-pressed boron carbide components at very high pressure, Hublot has managed to create a completely unique material, composed of gold and ceramic, that can only be scratched by diamond. Technical accomplishment also lies at the heart of the watch, with the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold being driven by the new UNICO 2 manufacture movement (HUB 1280). Thinner, more precise and more innovative than the UNICO 1, its successor offers a power reserve of 72 hours and a 2-year warranty, extended to 3 years when registering for an Hublotista account. The subject of several patent applications, the UNICO 2 boasts a gentler and quieter winding system. Its chronograph does not jump at the start, and it no longer quivers, thanks to a brand-new clutch mechanism. The UNICO 2 also offers better resistance to shocks. Furthermore, it has retained all of the aesthetic characteristics from its predecessor that are so loved by collectors – the highly technical and illustrative open worked design, and the signature “H” for Hublot. This results in a movement which requires less maintenance, and offers more operational efficiency following services, ultimately benefiting the customer. “We first launched it in 2005, which means that this year, the Big Bang is turning eighteen! A major milestone for Hublot, but also for the industry, in that it created not only its own look, spirit, universe, and technical achievements, but also its own large community of fans and collectors. At the same time, at 18, it remains as fresh and carefree as the day it was released. The Big Bang still has a lot to say. The proof is in this “Full Magic Gold” version, which truly embodies the essence of our Manufacture”. Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO
| 30 |At first glance, some will be drawn to the facets created by the signature folds and the iconic angular architecture of the internationally renowned visual artist. Others will be drawn by the mechanics of the Hublot chronograph dial. Lovers of both art and extreme precision are united in this new chapter of the collaboration, devoted to the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski. With this unique watch comes a 41 mm case that sits perfectly on any wrist. When the magic of fusion reaches a new peak, the watch becomes a true work of art. Both utterly unique, one is worn with the iconic black rubber strap while the other extends its three-dimensional silhouette along the entire watch, a huge technical feat that combines comfort with aesthetics. In this new collection, the micro-blasted titanium gives the facets a matt finish for an added touch of elegance. With their striking dodecagonal shape – the signature mark of Hublot’s collaboration with Richard Orlinski since 2017 –the bezel transforms into a polygon. These Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski watches have the HUB1153 automatic chronograph movement at their heart. Six years, four models, each bears the undeniable mark of the artist behind the contours and angles of the iconic larger-thanlife sculptures The art of fusion transforms sculptural strokes into powerful objects of art. A fusion of watchmaking and sculpture, in which the characteristics of both come together in a true act of symbiosis. Miniature works of art that stand the test of time. Once again, Hublot has surpassed itself, pushing the limits towards new horizons. “Those who know me know that I am highly demanding and do not impose any limits on myself. It is undoubtedly this shared approach that has united us since 2017. This collaboration is such a success because it is the result of a perfect harmony between innovation and know-how.” Richard Orlinski French Contemporary Artist HUBLOT AMBASSADOR “Hublot has always been driven by innovation and a bold sense of design which goes against the grain. There are many parallels between watchmaking and art, both of which require creativity, passion, determination and boldness. These values come together in this collaboration with Richard Orlinski to explore new and memorable designs. This fusion of high quality Haute Horology and Art allows us to move towards new creative horizons, as innovative as they are unique.” Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH ORLINSKI Similar yet unique mechanical sculptures.
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| 33 | BIG BANG ONE CLICK 18K King Gold case set with diamonds. Self-winding movement. Interchangeable strap using patented One-Click system.
| 34 |IWC SHAFFHAUSEN SHAFFHAUSEN IWC IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN UNVEILS TWO SPECIAL EDITION BIG PILOT’S WATCHES INSPIRED BY THE G-CLASS
| 35 | Maximum robustness and performance, a utilitarian heritage and design cues that have proved stronger than time: these characteristics are at the root of the sustained success and popularity of the G-Class from Mercedes-Benz and the Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC Schaffhausen. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now launches two special Big Pilot’s Watch editions to celebrate these modern design icons. While echoing signature G-Class design features such as the headlights or the spare wheel cover, they are both made from extremely robust and resilient case materials. One features a case and crown of 18-carat Armor Gold®; the second is IWC’s first timepiece with a ceramic matrix composite (CMC) case. The Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC Schaffhausen and the G-Class from Mercedes-Benz share a similar history and are deeply rooted in a utilitarian legacy. Both were initially developed to meet purely functional criteria – one to be easy to read and highly robust, the other to offer uncompromising offroad capabilities. Over the years, they have retained their utilitarian beginnings and evolved into modern design icons at the same time. After nearly 20 years of partnership with Mercedes-AMG, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now celebrates these icons with two striking special editions of the Big Pilot’s Watch. The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 (Ref. IW501201) boasts a case and crown made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, a black dial and a black rubber strap with microfiber inlay. The black and gold colour code is inspired by the exterior paintwork and interior finishing of the recently launched Mercedes-AMG G 63 “Grand Edition”. Armor Gold® is an innovative alloy that elevates the hardness values of gold to a whole new level and makes this comparatively soft, precious metal much more resistant to external influences. Thanks to an improved microstructure, this special alloy is significantly harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold. The combination of sand-blasted surfaces and polished edges lends this Big Pilot’s Watch a classy, contemporary character. The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 (Ref. IW506201) is the first IWC timepiece to feature a ceramic matrix composite (CMC) case, engineered in close collaboration with the German Aerospace Center (DLR). Unlike conventional carbon fibre-reinforced polymers, the fibres of this composite material are embedded in a matrix of ceramic rather than polymer. Therefore, CMC components are extremely damagetolerant. Because they are also insensitive to thermal shocks, they are the material of choice for applications with extremely high requirements in terms of lightness, strength, and temperature resistance – from aerospace to the manufacturing of brake discs for sports and luxury cars. A HIGHLY COMPLEX MANUFACTURING PROCESS The starting point for manufacturing a CMC watch case is a conventional carbon-fibre reinforced polymer. In a heat treatment called pyrolysis, lasting several days, the polymer matrix is converted to carbon, leaving behind a dense weave of fibres embedded in a porous carbon matrix. Subsequently, silicon crystals are placed on top of the component, and everything is heated in an oven. During this so-called siliconisation, silicon is pulled into the cavities and chemically reacts with the carbon, forming a new matrix made of silicon carbide ceramic. After finishing with diamond tools, the CMC cases exhibit a matte black colour and a unique structure determined by the fibres, making each piece truly unique. “The manufacturing process for this lightweight and strong material is extremely complex. To achieve perfect quality, we had to overcome countless challenges – from selecting the right raw materials for the fibres and the matrix to defining the exact parameters for the different steps of the process. With its first CMC watch case, IWC again demonstrates its expertise in engineering advanced material solutions,” explains Lorenz Brunner, Department Manager Research and Innovation at IWC Schaffhausen. REVISITING SIGNATURE G-CLASS DESIGN CUES In addition to the Big Pilot’s characteristic power reserve display at 3 o’clock, both new editions feature a small second counter at 9 o’clock. The opposing subdials with external white rings imitate the typical headlights on the front side of the G-Class. The black dials are embossed with a relief-like technical structure inspired by the air intakes of Mercedes-AMG performance cars. Unlike the classic Big Pilot’s Watch, which has printed numerals and indices, these special editions feature appliques that have been PVD-coated in black and filled with luminous material.
| 36 | IWC Schaffhausen presents the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton. Designed in collaboration with the seven-time Formula OneTM world champion and IWC brand ambassador, it features a refined platinum case, a teal dial and a matching textile strap. The IWCmanufactured 89900 calibre drives a flying minute tourbillon, a chronograph function and a retrograde date display. This timepiece is limited to 44 pieces, reflecting the number Hamilton has raced with since the beginning of his incredible career. Lewis Hamilton is not only one of the most accomplished athletes in motorsport, but he has also earned a reputation for his distinctive personal style and iconic outfits. The Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula OneTM Team driver often pushes the boundaries with his fashion choices, embracing bold colours, patterns, and original designs. The IWC brand ambassador has now joined forces with IWC Chief Design Officer Christian Knoop and his team again to design his third special edition timepiece. “It has been an honour and a pleasure to work with Lewis on this project. His passion for IWC and comprehensive knowledge of mechanical watches were palpable at every stage of the two-year development process. Lewis knew exactly what he wanted and brought excellent ideas to the table. The result is a timepiece that combines his unerring sense of aesthetics and love of bold colours with some of the finest watchmaking technology ever developed in Schaffhausen,” explains Christian Knoop, IWC Chief Design Officer. The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton (Ref. IW394008) features a 43.5-millimetre case made of platinum, the rarest, purest and most precious of all metals. The whitish sheen of platinum perfectly complements the rich tealcoloured dial embellished with 12 sparkling diamonds. With slightly recessed displays for the chronograph and the retrograde date, the elaborately finished dial has a sculptural look. It also features the seven-time F1TM world champions’s logo, resembling a panther’s eyes. The timepiece is fitted on a matching textile strap with a folding clasp. The eye-catcher on the dial is the flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. French for “whirlwind”, the tourbillon consists of the balance wheel rotating around its axis in a small cage. Not only does this constant rotation provide a visual spectacle on the dial but it also reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system, increasing the watch’s accuracy. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete halt, allowing the wearer to set the time with downto-the-second accuracy. Consisting of 56 individual parts and weighing in at only 0.675 grams, the delicate mechanism is incredibly challenging for a watchmaker to assemble. The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph is powered by the IWCmanufactured 89900 calibre, which also features a chronograph function. The stopped hours and minutes are displayed on one counter at 12 o’clock, making the elapsed time easy and intuitive to read. Another feature is the retrograde date display. The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicone and feature a diamond coating. This so-called Diamond Shell® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to a generous power reserve of 68 hours. The movement components such as the bridges are gold-plated and can be admired through the sapphire glass back. This marks the first time IWC has produced a goldplated movement since the legendary “Il Destriero Scafusia” from 1993. IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN INTRODUCES A LIMITED EDITION PORTUGIESER DESIGNED IN COLLABORATION WITH LEWIS HAMILTON IWC SHAFFHAUSEN
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana” features a case made of blue ceramic, developed in collaboration with Pantone® and inspired by the color of the U.S. Navy’s working overalls. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN is IWC’s first 41-millimetre Pilot’s Chronograph with a “Jet Black” black zirconium oxide ceramic case. Both timepieces are powered by the IWCmanufactured 69380 calibre, an extremely robust and reliable mechanical chronograph movement. With “The Colors of TOP GUN,” IWC introduced a collection of Pilot’s Watches in colored ceramic in 2022. It consisted of chronographs in striking new shades, such as IWC Lake Tahoe white and IWC Woodland green, developed in collaboration with Pantone®. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now adds two chronographs in a compact and easy-to-wear case diameter of 41 millimetres to the line-up. This marks the first time IWC offers the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in a case made of ceramic – an extremely hard and scratch-resistant performance material. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana” (Ref. 389404) features a case made of blue ceramic. The ceramic color “Oceana” was created with Pantone®, an IWC partner and a global authority on color. The color takes inspiration from the U.S. Navy’s blue overalls, a work uniform worn by their pilots when carrying out arduous tasks aboard aircraft carriers. In addition, the chronograph features a blue dial and a matching blue rubber strap with a denim finish textile inlay. Luminescence on the black hands and on the dial ensures excellent readability, even at night. The pushers and the case back are made of lightweight titanium. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN (Ref. 389401) is IWC’s first 41-millimetre Pilot’s Chronograph in black ceramic. Its “Jet Black” ceramic, inspired by the technical components of supersonic jets, has been the signature material of IWC TOP GUN since the line was established in 2007. A black dial and a black rubber strap complement the pitch-black ceramic case. Here, too, contrasting luminescent elements on the black hands and the dial enhance readability, even in the most challenging conditions. The titanium pushers and case back complement the sporty design. The integrated IWC EasX-CHANGE® system makes it possible to exchange the strap quickly and easily without needing additional tools. A PIONEER IN THE USE OF CERAMIC IWC Schaffhausen is a pioneer in the use of ceramic for watch cases. In 1986, the company introduced the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. 3755), the world’s first wristwatch with a case made of black zirconium oxide ceramic. IWC was also one of the first watch brands to push forward the development of different ceramic colors, such as white, blue, or green. Producing a watch case in colored ceramic is a feat of engineering. Zirconium oxide is combined with other metallic oxides to give the ceramic its color. As a result, each color requires different raw materials and a distinct mixing ratio. The manufacturing process and its specific parameters – such as the temperature and the exact duration of the sintering process – must be adapted to each particular ceramic color. What is more, colored ceramics also place incredibly high demands on the purity of their raw materials. | 37 | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PRESENTS ITS FIRST 41-MILLIMETRE PILOT’S CHRONOGRAPHS IN CERAMIC AND INTRODUCES “OCEANA” COLOR
“ONCE I DREAMED TO BECOME THE FASTEST DRIVER. TODAY, I AM A DRIVER OF CHANGE.” LEWIS HAMILTON, 7 TIME FORMULA 1TM WORLD CHAMPION
IW3894 THE REFERENCE. PILOT’S WATCH CHRONOGRAPH 41 TOP GUN Maximum performance and versatility: when it comes to chronographs, we have been setting ourselves the highest standards for more than four decades. Like with the 69000 caliber family, which we developed with an uncompromising focus on robustness and durability. Because only those who keep surpassing themselves can become the reference for others.
| 40 | JAEGER-LECOULTRE A NEW FILM STARRING NICHOLAS HOULT AND ANYA TAYLOR-JOY This autumn, Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a new film to the series that celebrates the values of patience, humility, hard work and dedication to excellence – the values that have guided La Grande Maison throughout its 190 years of history. Within the walls of its Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux, generations of engineers, watchmakers and craftsmen have built an exceptional legacy of know-hows encompassing 180 different skills – a remarkable array of savoir-faire that opens almost limitless fields of possibility. Over the course of almost two centuries, the Manufacture has created more than 1,400 different calibres – an exceptional achievement in the world of watchmaking – and many of its 430-plus patents have left their mark on horological history. La Grande Maison has designed, produced and assembled some of the world’s most noteworthy watch movements – not only for its own timepieces but also for many of the other most prestigious names in watchmaking. For this, Jaeger-LeCoultre is known as the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE GENESIS OF EXCELLENCE At Jaeger-LeCoultre, we believe that, in watchmaking as in any creative endeavour, mastery comes from patience and dedication. Greatness is achieved by turning talent into skill, day after day, one small achievement after another. Passion is channelled into focus and commitment. Moments of inspiration are fuelled by years of learning. Expertise is built from countless small increments practised and perfected over time. Excellence evolves step by step. As in music, art, performance, literature, design, so it is in watchmaking. This is the JaegerLeCoultre Manifesto. For Autumn 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites the talents of Global Ambassadors Nicholas Hoult and Anya Taylor-Joy in a new film that reflects on the true source of success – an homage to the work that is done when nobody is watching; the years of practice it takes to perfect a gesture, a movement, a word spoken to camera. The new short film that anchors the campaign has – like the previous video, which starred Lenny Kravitz with Anya Taylor-Joy – been directed by French visual artist and creative director Quentin Deronzier. It picks up where the previous film left off, with the Reverso continuing to serve as a cornerstone of the visual narrative. Celebrated for his dreamscape settings that play with the notions of real, unreal and surreal, Deronzier also designed the sets and the evocative lighting. The minimal backdrop, dominated by a huge, backlit cube, focuses the viewers’ attention on Nicholas Hoult and Anya Taylor-Joy as their stories are woven together. The narrative builds into a powerful message about the unseen work that makes their creativity appear so effortless – a natural analogy to the art and craft of watchmaking. ‘THE WATCHMAKER OF WATCHMAKERS’ JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S MANIFESTO OF EXCELLENCE JAEGER LECOULTRE
| 41 | METAPHORS FOR MASTERY For the new film Nicholas Hoult wears the technically sophisticated Reverso Tribute Chronograph in steel, while Anya Taylor-Joy wears the refined and feminine Reverso Duetto Small in pink gold. The film is enriched by powerful and beautifully lit portraits of the two ambassadors, captured by the Canadian photographer Richard Phibbs. The portraits are complemented by close-up images of the movements of the two watches, underlining the creative passion and technical savoirfaire embodied within every Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph turns from its discreet Art Deco-style sunray-brushed front dial to askeletonised and intricately decorated reverse dial, where a second display of the time complements the chronograph registers. The movement, Calibre 860, is an elegant and highly creative answer to the challenge of housing circular chronograph timing indications within a rectangular case; it features a large chronograph seconds display in the upper part of the dial complemented by a retrograde 30-minute indicator on an arc at the base of the dial. The day-to-night design of the Reverso Duetto Small displays the time on two dials with two very different moods, complemented by a bracelet of polished gold links. Sunray brushing anchors the classical restraint of the silver front dial, while the drama of black lacquer is highlighted by diamond-set gadroons on the reverse side. Since its birth in 1931, the Reverso has constantly evolved in the spirit of innovation and both of the models featured in the new film epitomise its limitless potential for reinvention, showcasing JaegerLeCoultre’s relentless quest for excellence in both technical development and aesthetic design. JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S MANIFESTO We believe excellence never happens by chance. We believe that creative ingenuity leads to unique mastery. We believe that playing the right way is a matter of dedication. We believe the perfect gesture is a reward for years of effort. We believe it takes time to reach excellence. Where you see an achievement, we see the work behind it. Jaeger-LeCoultre, The Watchmaker of Watchmakers.
| 42 |Continuing to expand its cultural universe, Jaeger-LeCoultre announces the latest instalment in its Made of Makers programme: a new collaboration with Brendi Wedinger, a Los Angeles-based multi-media artist recognised for her work in 3D digital arts, sculpture and floristry. EXPANDING THE DIALOGUE BETWEEN WATCHMAKING AND THE ARTS Through a series of collaborations with artists, designers and craftsmen from disciplines outside watchmaking, Made of Makers explores and extends the dialogue that naturally exists between horology and art. The programme focuses on artists who share Jaeger-LeCoultre’s values of creativity, expertise and precision, with nature at its core, exploring new forms of artistic expression through different and often unexpected materials and media. Like the watchmakers of La Grande Maison, these artists and innovators have a deep respect for the past as their creative foundation and a springboard for their trailblazing work. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre further explores the world of contemporary art with an unexpected new collaboration. A DISTINCTIVE ARTISTIC VISION THAT UNITES NATURE WITH TECHNOLOGY Based in Los Angeles, Brendi Wedinger is a multi-disciplinary artist and designer whose three-dimensional, digital artworks blur the boundary between real life and fantasy. Taking inspiration from nature as her primary theme – with an emphasis on biodiversity, sustainability and renewal, and a particular love of flowers – she combines various elements to form a new and surreal visual reality that is almost tangible, occasionally abstract, often highly sculptural, and always emotionally captivating. While the virtual world of Brendi Wedinger’s art and the technical tools employed to create it, appear to be the antithesis of the organic world that she portrays, a strong affinity with traditional craftsmanship underpins her creative process. “Rather than using a computer programme to design the work from the outset, I always begin by using the technical tools to hand-sculpt the larger three-dimensional elements, such as the petals of a flower, and hand-draw the fine details. Once I have completed this stage, I use a lot of mathematical equations to create textures, transparency and layering effects,” she explains. “What drew me to the digital medium is that it gives me more tools to play with and a wider scope for experimentation, so that my work becomes a more expressive homage to nature rather than a literal representation of it.” NEW 3-D ARTWORKS INSPIRED BY THE FLORA OF THE VALLÉE DE JOUX For each Made of Makers collaboration, Jaeger-LeCoultre commissions an original work, inviting the artist to express a theme of interest to the Maison through their particular craft. Given Brendi Wedinger’s deep affinity with the natural world it was self-evident that the theme of the new work would be nature – one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s core values – and flowers, specifically. Like all Made of Makers collaborators, before starting work on the commission Brendi Wedinger spent time at JaegerTHE 1931 GOLDEN FLOWERS DESIGNED BY DIGITAL FLORISTRY SCULPTOR BRENDI WEDINGER A NEW ARTISTIC COLLABORATION UNDER JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S MADE OF MAKERS PROGRAMME TO CELEBRATE THE DESIGN OF REVERSO JAEGER-LECOULTRE
| 43 | LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux, discovering the crafts of watchmaking and exploring the natural world that surrounds the Manufacture. She combined elements from every aspect of the visit to create her new work – a series of three surrealistic flowers. “Everything about that visit – from the wildflowers in the fields, to the incredible complexity and tiny scale of the watch components and the patience and skill of all the different craftsmen in the Manufacture – was like a romantic fantasy world, so far from the lightningfast pace of modern life,” says Brendi Wedinger. “Aside from the natural beauty of the valley, I felt very inspired by the high-complication watches and the unique details you find in them. I wanted the flowers to be complex and one-of-a kind, like the watches, with all of the beauty and immense detail that can be found in both.” Each of the three creations is an idealised homage to a variety of flowers found in the Vallée de Joux throughout the changing seasons, rather than a particular species that exists in nature. “When people look more deeply at each work, they will see that every element is recognisable and traceable to a natural flower, but I remixed and layered the details to emphasise their surreal nature,” Brendi Wedinger explains. Another important element of the commission was that the flowers should be (digitally) rendered in one of the precious metals used at Jaeger-LeCoultre, which creates a hyper-realistic illusion of the shadows and reflections created by light falling on polished gold, further amplifying the surreal effect. In creating this work, the artist has deliberately played with contrasting notions – the opposition between the organic softness of nature and the cold solidity of metal, the digital and the physical, the ephemeral and the static – adding subtle layers of tension and intrigue that heighten the emotional impact of each piece. FROM NATURE TO ART…AND BACK TO NATURE In a play on botanical tradition, the flowers have each been given official Latin names with formal English counterparts. Linking them back to the Maison’s history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added an official name to each flower, which pays tribute to the Reverso’s year of origin. Thus, elements of poppy, alpine pasque and grass of parnassus have been combined to create Flos Montis Fluit (Flower of the Mountain Flows), known as the 1931 Golden Poppy. Poet’s daffodil, red hemp nettle and late spider orchid are blended to create Gemma Vallis (The Jewel of the Vallee), known as the 1931 Golden Orchid. For the third flower, water mint, pincushion flower and alpine thistle have been combined to create Rhapsodia Petalorum Alpinorum (The Rhapsody of Alpine Petals), known as the 1931 Golden Thistle. Further blurring the lines between the real and surreal, JaegerLeCoultre commissioned a French plant breeder to identify a flower that closely resembles the form of the 1931 Golden Orchid and to breed a hybrid exclusively for the Maison. Named the 1931 White Orchid, it is a natural and physical representation of Brendi Wedinger’s art piece. The flowers – in both their physical and virtual forms – will become part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s visual identity and seen in a wide variety of initiatives in the future.
LENNY KRAVITZ
CALIBRE 860 THE WATCHMAKER OF WATCHMAKERS REVERSO
| 46 |OMEGA OMEGA Seamaster: Precision at Every Level OMEGA salutes the family launched 75 years ago with an 11-watch collection, the Seamaster in Summer Blue, that celebrates water resistance. To celebrate OMEGA’s oceangoing icon, the Swiss brand has produced a new collection with bold dials that include a striking tone reminiscent of a perfect day on a boundless sea. The seven iconic models - eleven watches in all – track a trajectory from dressy to serious dive tech. Common to all is OMEGA’s Summer Blue, used in greater or lesser degrees to reflect the water resistance of each Seamaster and relate its depth-defying credentials at a glance: Aqua Terra represents the sun-drenched surface, Ultra Deep the dark abyss. These timepieces, launched to mark the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster line, pay tribute to an extraordinary history of innovation, exploration, ocean-tested performance and design.
| 47 | AQUA TERRA All watches have a new dial in sun-brushed Summer Blue, varnished with a gradient finish to reflect the water resistance of the Aqua Terra: an impressive 150 metres. To complement this colour, OMEGA has filled the rhodium-plated hands and indexes with a unique light blue Super-LumiNova. AQUA TERRA WORLDTIMER The 43 mm Aqua Terra Worldtimer in stainless steel, available on a matching bracelet or blue rubber strap, presents a colourful view of Earth. Around the dial is a circle of silvery printed global destinations. Laser-ablating texture and then colour on a grade 5 titanium plate produced the vision of Earth, which depicts a blue ocean and relief of the continents. In line with Aqua Terra technology, the Worldtimer is equipped to mark time in a watery world, 150 metres beneath the waves. SEAMASTER 300 As the name makes clear, this watch takes 300 metres in its stride and its varnished dial, in Summer Blue, reflects this deeper level of water resistance. In keeping with the colour code, OMEGA has filled the rhodium-plated hands, recessed hour markers, and open numerals with a unique light blue Super-LumiNova. DIVER 300M In keeping with its commemorative cousins, it has a Summer Blue wave-pattern ceramic dial, varnished with a gradient finish to reflect its water resistance. A blue ceramic bezel with new Summer Blue enamel (Grand feu) diving scale encircles the dial, which has rhodium-plated skeleton hands and raised indexes, filled with a unique light blue Super-LumiNova. PLANET OCEAN 600M Those looking for serious dive tech seek out OMEGA’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M. As its name make clear, it is well and truly at home in the ocean, performing brilliantly 600 metres beneath the surface. PLORPROF This 2023 Ploprof, crafted in O-MEGASTEEL with a sun-brushed Summer Blue dial, takes its design cues from OMEGA’s original model, which arrived on the market in 1971. The bezel ring is a sapphire crystal, to mirror the chemically reinforced monolithic crystal used in those early versions.. The iconic monobloc case includes the famous screwed-in crown and the characteristic security pusher at 2 o’clock, which on this edition sports a ring in blue ceramic. ULTRA DEEP This 45.5 mm model has a case and bracelet in robust O-MEGASTEEL and an extraordinary dial that pays homage to the mysteries of the deep. Its pattern is an exact representation of the Challenger Deep mapped by the Five Deeps team using almost one million sonar points. Its lacquered finish, produced by letting an ocean of lacquer flow across the dial, has a beautiful sense of depth. The dial even has a playful side. Shining a UV light reveals the words, OMEGA WAS HERE, pointing toward the world record dive of 10,935 m and showing the Western, Central and Eastern Pools.
| 48 |Aqua Terra Shades The Aqua Terra Shades collection takes OMEGA watchmaking in a vibrant new direction. With a bold array of dial shades available, this is a chance for everyone to express their style in colour. The collection follows the spectrum from ocean to earth, encompassing unique tones such as Atlantic Blue, Lagoon Green, and Terracotta – an assorted palette that uses nature as inspiration. Two different sizes are available, with entirely polished stainless steel cases either in 38 mm or 34 mm, and all presented with a Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. In addition, there are two 18K gold models that deliver an extra edge of luxury. Crafted in OMEGA’s long-lasting alloys, these timepieces accentuate the spirit of colour with their own golden hues. THE EVOLUTION OF A COLLECTION OMEGA introduced the original “Aqua Terra” family in 2002. The bold range of timepieces was given a Latin name, honouring OMEGA’s rich ocean heritage and the spirit of the iconic Seamaster watches, which were known for their reliability both on water (Aqua) and on land (Terra). The very first models delivered a “refreshing contrast” of style and innovation that could easily fit an active lifestyle. Blending city chic with ocean ingenuity may have been a challenge, but the collection has now endured for over 20 years, establishing itself as one of the most distinctive and popular timepiece choices. Today, the Aqua Terra is known for its laid-back style, antimagnetic legacy, and powers of precision. With the launch of the “Shades” models, the collection is ignited with colour, and as you’d expect, backed by the guarantee of Co-Axial Master Chronometer certification. THE GOLD MODELS For extra radiance, two additional watches are introduced in gold. The 38 mm choice has been created in 18K Sedna™ Gold - OMEGA’s own red gold alloy, known for its warm tones and high resistance to fading. The sun-brushed and lacquered dial is CVD-treated and presented in a sandstone colour, featuring an applied circular date window in 18K Sedna™ Gold, sailboat indexes, and grey-coloured transfers. Set on an 18K Sedna™ Gold bracelet with a butterfly clasp, this watch is powered by OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 8801. The 34 mm choices is made in 18K Moonshine™ Gold – OMEGA’s own yellow gold alloy, known for its pale tones and high resistance to fading. The sun-brushed and lacquered dial is CVD-treated and presented in lagoon green, featuring an applied circular date window in 18K Moonshine™ Gold, sailboat indexes, and silver-coloured transfers. Set on a shimmering leather strap in pine green, this watch is powered by OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 8801. OMEGA
| 49 | Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer 2023 The watch made to track every time zone on the planet continues to gain momentum across the globe. In the last few years, OMEGA’s Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer has grown steadily in popularity, to become a go-to timepiece for international travelers and passionate collectors. Now, OMEGA is expanding the Worldtimer collection to include three new models: a titanium edition with a dial made entirely by laser ablation - and two striking options in stainless steel. In addition to scratch-resistant ceramic bezels, all three watches have something very special in common: the unique Worldtimer display. At the centre of the dial, OMEGA has produced a vision of Earth, viewed from above the North Pole, by laser-ablating continents and colours on a grade 5 titanium surface. Although impossible to see with the naked eye, this entire watch-scape is domed, to mimic the curvature of the Earth. Circling the topographic map is a 24-hour indication under hesalite glass, divided into night and day sections. OMEGA’s home city of BIENNE Switzerland is among the many global destinations circling around each dial and its outer ring. All place names, with the exception of the British capital are coloured yellow gold for the stainless-steel versions. LONDON is in red to highlight Greenwich Mean Time, now more formally known as Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). For OMEGA President and CEO, Mr. Raynald Aeschlimann, the new watches are both innovative and inspiring. “At OMEGA, we take pride in our pioneering spirit and these watches are like a call to action. Go for it! Step out into the world! The dials are works of art, which prompt a sense of awe and adventure. What’s more, there is top-level technology working behind those amazing displays. They’re beautiful, fun to wear and operate and true collectables.” THE TITANIUM WORLDTIMER Bold and sporty, the 43 mm Worldtimer in lightweight and corrosion resistant titanium is the ultimate statement piece. On this model, OMEGA has produced the entire black and grey dial, including its colours, with laser. There are no transferred elements, apart from the word LONDON and even here the red varnish has been applied by hand. To complement the matte dial, OMEGA has opted for a brushed black ceramic bezel, and blackened hands and indexes, filled with white Super-LumiNova which emits a blue glow in the dark. Completing the look is an integrated strap in black structured rubber with grey stitching, additional decorative link in brushed grade 2 titanium, and grade 2 titanium clasp. TWO IN STEEL Globetrotters wishing to keep it classic have two style options in stainless steel. One with matching stainless-steel bracelet and butterfly clasp, another with integrated green rubber strap with grey stitching, additional decorative link in polished steel, and polishedbrushed fold over clasp. Each 43 mm stainless steel model has a sunbrushed PVD dial in green, encircled by a polished-brushed green ceramic bezel. Adding shine to the dial are hands and indexes in 18K Moonshine™ Gold. POWERING THE WORLDTIMER The driving force behind each new Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8938, which has met the highest standards of precision demanded by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Each timepiece is also assured at depth, with a waterresistance of 15 bar (150 m / 500 ft). Three new watches to time the world.
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