Professional Cooking

PROFESSIONAL WAY N E G I S S L E N SEVENTH EDITION PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. GERARD SMITH JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. COOKING

This book was set in 9/12 Meta by Mauna Eichner and Lee Fukui and printed and bound by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. The cover was printed by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. This book is printed on acid free paper. Copyright © 2011, 2007, 2003, 1999 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, website www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, (201)748-6011, fax (201)748-6008, website http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general information on our other products and services, or technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at 800-762-2974, outside the United States at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our website at http://www.wiley.com. Evaluation copies are provided to qualified academics and professionals for review purposes only, for use in their courses during the next academic year. These copies are licensed and may not be sold or transferred to a third party. Upon completion of the review period, please return the evaluation copy to Wiley. Return instructions and a free of charge return shipping label are available at www.wiley.com/go/returnlabel. Outside of the United States, please contact your local representative. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data: Gisslen, Wayne, 1946- Professional cooking / Wayne Gisslen ; photography by J. Gerard Smith. -- 7th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-470-19752-3 (Higher Education Cloth) -- ISBN 978-0-470-19753-0 (Trade Cloth) 1. Quantity cookery. 2. Food service. I. Title. TX820.G54 2009 641.5'7--dc22 2009045858 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cover Designer Howard Grossman Cover & Interior Photography J. Gerard Smith Sr. Page Layout Technician Beth Brooks Graphics Supervisor Clint Lahnen Illustration Creation Cheryl Grubbs Graphics Processing & Imaging Brent Savage Composition Proj. Coordinator Kristie Rees Executive Media Editor Tom Kulesa Media Consultant Lydia Cheng Senior Acquisitions Editor Mary J. Cassells Senior Developmental Editor Julie R. Kerr Project Editor Michele Traeger Editorial Assistant James Metzger Editorial Assistant Jenni Lee Production Editor Barbara Russiello Production Manager Micheline Frederick Marketing Manager Margaret Barrett Compostion & Text Design Mauna Eichner, Lee Fukui Senior Designer Carole Anson

This book is dedicated to the many Chef-Instructors preparing a new generation of culinary professionals.

OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND iv Contents Recipe Contents ix Preface xxii Acknowledgments xxvi About CulinarE-Companion™ xxix About WileyPLUS xxx Chapter 1 The Food-Service Industry 1 A History of Modern Food Service 2 The Organization of Modern Kitchens 7 Standards of Professionalism 11 Chapter 2 Sanitation and Safety 15 Sanitation 16 Food Hazards 16 Personal Hygiene 25 Food Storage 26 Food Handling and Preparation 28 Cleaning and Sanitizing Equipment 30 Rodent and Insect control 32 Setting up a System for Food Safety 33 Safety 35 The Safe Workplace 36 Preventing Cuts 36 Preventing Burns 37 Preventing and Dealing with Fires 37 Preventing Injuries from Machines and Equipment 38 Preventing Falls 38 Preventing Strains and Injuries from Lifting 39 Chapter 3 Tools and Equipment 41 Introduction to Quantity Food Equipment 42 Cooking Equipment 43 Processing Equipment 49 Holding and Storage Equipment 53 Pots, Pans, and Containers 54 Measuring Devices 56 Knives, Hand Tools, and Small Equipment 57 Chapter 4 Basic Principles of Cooking and Food Science 63 Heat and Food 64 What Is Heat? 64 Heat Transfer 66 Heat Management 67 Cooking Methods 70 Moist-Heat Methods 70 Dry-Heat Methods 72 Dry-Heat Methods Using Fat 74 Microwave Cooking 76 Cooking Sous Vide 77 Molecular Gastronomy 79 Summary of Cooking Terms 81 Building Flavor 82 Building Flavor Profiles 82 Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients 84 Using Herbs and Spices 89

CONTENTS v Chapter 5 Menus, Recipes, and Cost Management 93 Menu Forms and Functions 94 Building the Menu 96 The Written Recipe 102 Measurement 105 Converting Recipes 109 Food Cost Calculations 114 Controlling Food Costs 120 Chapter 6 Nutrition 125 Nutrients 126 The Balanced Diet 130 Cooking Healthful Meals 133 Chapter 7 Mise en Place 137 Planning and Organizing Production 138 Using the Knife 141 Preliminary Cooking and Flavoring 149 Preparation for Frying 152 Handling Convenience Foods 154 Chapter 8 Stocks and Sauces 157 Stocks 158 Ingredients 158 Procedures 162 Reductions and Glazes 169 Convenience Bases 170 Sauces 171 Understanding Sauces 171 Roux 172 Other Thickening Agents 176 Finishing Techniques 177 Sauce Families 179 Production 182 Chapter 9 Soups 223 Understanding Soups 224 Classifications of Soups 224 Service of Soups 225 Clear Soups 227 Broths 227 Consommé 228 Vegetable Soups 232 Other Clear Soups 235 Thick Soups 238 Cream Soups 238 Purée Soups 246 Bisques 253 Chowders 254 Specialty Soups and National Soups 257 Chapter 10 Understanding Meats and Game 275 Composition, Structure, and Basic Quality Factors 276 Composition 276 Structure 277 Inspection and Grading 278 Aging 278 Understanding the Basic Cuts 280 Available Forms: Carcasses, Partial Carcasses, Primals, and Fabricated Cuts 280 Bone Structure 281 Beef, Lamb, Veal, and Pork Cuts 285 Selecting Meats for Your Operation 288 Fabricating Meats 289 Cooking and Handling Meats 293 Tenderness and Appropriate Cooking Methods 293 Doneness 297 Cooking Variety Meats 300 Game and Specialty Meats 303 Storage of Meats 306 Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game 309 Roasting and Baking 310 Broiling, Grilling, and Pan-Broiling 325 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Griddling 333 Simmering 343 Braising 352

Chapter 12 Understanding Poultry and Game Birds 371 Composition and Structure 372 Inspection and Grading 373 Classification and Market Forms 374 Handling and Storage 378 Doneness 378 Trussing Methods 379 Cutting Up Chicken 380 Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds 385 Roasting and Baking 386 Broiling and Grilling 399 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Deep-Frying 406 Simmering and Poaching 419 Braising 427 Dressings and Stuffings 438 Chapter 14 Understanding Fish and Shellfish 441 Fin Fish 442 Composition and Structure 442 Special Problems in Cooking Fish 442 Cutting Fish 443 Varieties and Characteristics 446 Handling and Storage 454 Shellfish 456 Mollusks 456 Cephalopods 461 Crustaceans 462 Miscellaneous Seafood 469 Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish 471 Baking 472 Broiling and Grilling 478 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 486 Deep-Frying 494 Poaching and Simmering 499 Steaming and Mixed Cooking Techniques 509 Seafood Served Raw 517 Chapter 16 Understanding Vegetables 523 Controlling Quality Changes During Cooking 524 Controlling Texture Changes 524 Controlling Flavor Changes 525 Controlling Color Changes 526 Controlling Nutrient Losses 528 General Rules of Vegetable Cookery 529 Standards of Quality in Cooked Vegetables 529 Handling Vegetables 530 Fresh Vegetables 530 Processed Vegetables 553 Production and Holding Problems in Quantity Cooking 556 Storage 557 Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables 561 Boiling and Steaming 562 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 576 Braising 582 Baking 588 Broiling and Grilling 596 Deep-Frying 598 Chapter 18 Potatoes 603 Understanding Potatoes 604 Cooking Potatoes 607 Chapter 19 Legumes, Grains, Pasta, and Other Starches 629 Dried Legumes 630 Grains 639 Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings 657 Chapter 20 Cooking for Vegetarian Diets 681 Understanding Vegetarian Diets 682 Menus for Vegetarian Diets 684 vi CONTENTS

Chapter 21 Salad Dressings and Salads 699 Salad Dressings 700 Ingredients 700 Emulsions in Salad Dressings 701 Oil-and-Vinegar Dressings 702 Emulsified Dressings 705 Other Dressings 708 Salads 710 Types of Salads 710 Ingredients 712 Arrangement and Presentation 721 Recipes and Techniques 723 Chapter 22 Sandwiches 761 Breads 762 Spreads 763 Fillings 763 Types of Sandwiches 765 Making Sandwiches 766 Chapter 23 Hors d’Oeuvres 781 Serving Hors d’Oeuvres 782 Canapés 782 Cocktails 786 Relishes 786 Dips 787 Miscellaneous Hors d’Oeuvres 790 Chapter 24 Breakfast Preparation 811 Eggs 812 Understanding Eggs 812 Cooking Eggs 816 Breakfast Breads, Cereals, and Meats 826 Pancakes and Waffles 826 French Toast 828 Cereals 830 Breakfast Meats 830 Chapter 25 Dairy and Beverages 833 Dairy Products 834 Milk and Cream 834 Butter 836 Cheese 837 Coffee and Tea 846 Coffee 846 Tea 849 Chapter 26 Sausages and Cured Foods 853 Curing and Smoking 854 Sausages 859 Chapter 27 Pâtés, Terrines, and Other Cold Foods 875 The Handling and Service of Cold Dishes 876 Aspic and Chaud-Froid 877 Special Forcemeat Dishes 882 Terrines Based on Mousselines 891 Terrines and Other Molds with Gelatin 893 Foie Gras, Liver Terrines, and Rillettes 899 Chapter 28 Food Presentation and Garnish 905 Hot Food Presentation 906 Fundamentals of Plating 906 Garnish 910 Cold Food Presentation and Buffet Service 912 Buffet Arrangement and Appearance 913 Cold Platter Presentation 915 Hot Foods for Buffets 917 CONTENTS vii

Chapter 29 Bakeshop Production: Basic Principles and Ingredients 919 Basic Principles of Baking 920 Formulas and Measurement 920 Mixing and Gluten Development 923 The Baking Process 924 Staling 925 Ingredients 925 Flours, Meals, and Starches 925 Fats 927 Sugars 928 Liquids 930 Eggs 931 Leavening Agents 932 Salt, Flavorings, and Spices 933 Chapter 30 Yeast Products 937 Understanding Yeast Products 938 Yeast Product Types 938 Mixing Methods 938 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 939 Dough Formulas and Techniques 944 Bread and Roll Formulas 944 Rolled-In Doughs: Danish Pastry and Croissants 948 Makeup Techniques 952 Chapter 31 Quick Breads 959 Mixing and Production Methods 960 Formulas 962 Chapter 32 Cakes and Icings 967 Understanding Cake Making 968 Basic Mixing Methods 968 Cake Formula Types 971 Scaling and Panning 972 Baking and Cooling 974 Altitude Adjustments 975 Cake Formulas 976 Creaming Method 976 Two-Stage Method 978 Foaming Methods 979 Icings: Production and Application 981 Producing and Handling Basic Types 981 Assembling and Icing Cakes 986 Chapter 33 Cookies 991 Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 992 Mixing Methods 993 Types and Makeup Methods 994 Panning, Baking, and Cooling 996 Chapter 34 Pies and Pastries 1005 Pies 1006 Pie Doughs 1006 Assembly and Baking 1010 Fillings 1012 Pastries, Meringues, and Fruit Desserts 1020 Puff Pastry 1020 Éclair Paste 1024 Meringues 1026 Fruit Desserts 1028 Chapter 35 Creams, Custards, Puddings, Frozen Desserts, and Sauces 1033 Sugar Cooking 1034 Basic Custards and Creams 1035 Puddings 1039 Bavarians, Chiffons, Mousses, and Soufflés 1041 Frozen Desserts 1049 Desert Sauces 1051 Appendix 1 Metric Conversion Factors 1054 Appendix 2 Standard Can Sizes 1054 Appendix 3 Approximate Weight-Volume Equivalents of Dry Foods 1055 Appendix 4 Kitchen Math Exercises: Metric Versions 1056 Appendix 5 Eggs and Safety 1058 Bibliography 1059 Glossary and Cooking Vocabulary 1061 Subject Index 1077 Recipe Index 1081 viii CONTENTS

= core recipes = international recipes = low in fat recipes = vegetarian recipes Chapter 8 Stocks and Sauces 157 Basic White Stock (Beef or Veal) 164 Chicken Stock 164 White Lamb Stock, Turkey Stock, Ham Stock 164 Basic Brown Stock 166 Brown Lamb Stock, Game Stock 166 Fish Stock 167 Fish Fumet 167 Vegetable Stock 168 Dashi 169 Vegetarian Dashi 169 Béchamel Sauce 183 Light Béchamel 183 Heavy Béchamel 183 Small Sauces 184 Cream Sauce 184 Mornay Sauce 184 Mornay Sauce for Glazing or Gratinéeing 184 Cheddar Cheese Sauce 184 Mustard Sauce 184 Soubise Sauce 184 Tomatoed Soubise Sauce 184 Nantua Sauce 184 Velouté Sauce (Veal, Chicken, or Fish) 184 White Wine Sauce 185 Suprême Sauce 185 Allemande Sauce 186 Small Sauces 186 Poulette 186 Aurora 186 Hungarian 186 Ivory or Albufera 186 Curry 186 Mushroom 186 Bercy 186 Herb 186 Normandy 186 Anchovy 186 Shrimp 186 Venetian 186 Horseradish 186 Brown Sauce or Espagnole 187 Jus de Veau Lié I 187 Jus de Volaille Lié, Jus d’Agneau Lié 187 Jus de Canard Lié, or Jus de Gibier Lié 187 Fond Lié or Jus Lié II 188 Demi-Glace 189 Small Sauces 189 Bordelaise 189 Marchand de Vin (Wine Merchant) 189 Robert 189 Charcutière 189 Chasseur 189 Diable (Deviled) 189 Madeira 189 Périgueux 189 Poîvrade 189 Port Wine 189 Italian Sauce 189 Mushroom 189 Bercy 189 Piquante 189 Lyonnaise 189 Bigarade 189 Tomato Sauce I 190 Tomato Sauce II (Vegetarian) 190 Tomato Sauce III 190 Small Sauces 191 Portugaise (Portuguese) 191 Spanish 191 Creole 191 Fresh Tomato Coulis with Garlic 191 Maître d’Hôtel Butter 194 Anchovy Butter 194 Garlic Butter 194 Escargot (Snail) Butter 194 Shrimp Butter 194 Mustard Butter 194 Herb Butter 194 Scallion or Shallot Butter 194 Curry Butter 194 Beurre Blanc 194 Herbed Butter Sauce 194 Beurre Rouge for Fish 194 Beurre Rouge (Red Butter Sauce) 194 ix Recipe Contents ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIE

Cinnamon Oil, Cumin Oil, Curry Oil, Ginger Oil, or Paprika Oil 216 Basil Oil, Parsley Oil, Chervil Oil, or Cilantro Oil 216 Tartar Sauce 216 Rémoulade Sauce 216 Aïoli I 217 Horseradish Sauce (Sauce Raifort) 217 Cocktail Sauce 217 Mignonette Sauce 218 Fig Compote 218 Cold Snap Pea Coulis 219 Basil Sauce 219 Parmesan Foam 220 Raspberry Beads 220 Chapter 9 Soups 223 Beef Broth 227 Consommé 230 Double Consommé 230 Chicken Consommé 231 Cold Jellied Consommé 231 Consommé Madrilène 231 Essence of Celery Consommé 231 Consommé au Porto 231 Consommé au Sherry 231 Garnished Consommés Consommé Brunoise 231 Consommé Julienne 231 Consommé Printanière 231 Consommé Paysanne 231 Consommé with Pearl Tapioca 231 Consommé Vermicelli 231 Consommé Fettucine 231 Consommé Fettuccine with Parmesan and Basil 231 Clear Vegetable Soup 233 Vegetable Rice Soup 233 Chicken Vegetable Rice Soup 233 Vegetable Beef Soup 233 Vegetable Beef Barley Soup 233 Piquant Vegetable Soup with Chickpeas 234 Piquant Vegetable Soup with Roasted Garlic 234 Mushroom Barley Soup 234 Chicken Noodle Soup 235 Beef Noodle Soup 235 Chicken or Beef Noodle Soup with Vegetables 235 Brunswick Soup 235 Chicken Tomato Bouillon with Pesto 236 Chicken Tomato Bouillon with Rice 236 Cold Chicken Tomato Bouillon 236 Oxtail Soup 237 Cream of Celery Soup (Cream Soup Method 1) 240 Cream of Asparagus 240 Cream of Broccoli 240 Cream of Carrot 240 Cream of Cauliflower 240 Cream of Corn 240 Hollandaise Sauce I 196 Hollandaise Sauce II 197 Small Sauces 197 Maltaise 197 Mousseline 197 Béarnaise Sauce 197 Small Sauces 198 Foyot 198 Choron 198 Mushroom Jus 203 Sweet Corn and Chile Purée 203 Bell Pepper Coulis 204 Bell Pepper and Tomato Coulis 204 White Bean Purée 204 Sour Cream Sauce 204 Cream Sauce for Fish 205 Cream Sauce for Poultry and Meat 205 Herbed Cream Sauce 205 Chipotle Cream Sauce 205 Herb Cream Sauce 205 Salsa Verde Cocida 206 Salsa Roja 206 Tomato Broth for Chiles Rellenos 206 Salsa Cruda 206 Ancho Sauce 207 Chimichurri Sauce 207 Vegetable Caper Relish 208 Tomato Raisin Chutney 208 Pineapple Chutney 209 Cucumber Raita 209 Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce) 210 Thai Red Curry Sauce 210 Thai Green Curry Sauce 210 Red Curry Paste 211 Green Curry Paste 211 Indonesian Peanut Sauce 211 Asian Sweet-and-Sour Sauce 212 Yakitori Sauce 212 Ponzu Sauce 212 Sesame Miso Sauce 213 Port Wine Sauce 213 Applesauce 213 Cumberland Sauce 214 Barbecue Sauce 214 Chile Barbecue Sauce 215 Soy Barbecue Sauce 215 Fruit Salsa 215 Shallot Oil 216 Ginger Oil, Horseradish Oil, or Garlic Oil 216 Lemon or Orange Oil 216 Rosemary Oil, Sage Oil, Thyme Oil, or Oregano Oil 216 x RECIPE CONTENTS

Cream of Cucumber 240 Cream of Mushroom 240 Cream of Pea 240 Cream of Spinach 240 Cream of Watercress 240 Cream of Chicken 240 Cold Cream Soups 240 Cream of Mushroom Soup (Cream Soup Method 2) 241 Cream of Asparagus 241 Cream of Broccoli 241 Cream of Carrot 241 Cream of Cauliflower 241 Cream of Celery 241 Cream of Corn 241 Cream of Cucumber 241 Cream of Green Pea 241 Cream of Spinach 241 Cream of Watercress 241 Cream of Chicken 241 Cream of Broccoli Soup (Cream Soup Method 3) 242 Cream of Tomato Soup 243 Wild Rice and Mushroom Soup 244 Wisconsin Cheddar and Broccoli Soup 245 Purée of Carrot Soup (Potage Crècy) 247 Purée of Cauliflower Soup (Purée Dubarry) 247 Purée of Celery or Celery Root Soup 247 Purée of Jerusalem Artichoke Soup 247 Purée of Potato Soup (Potage Parmentier) 247 Purée of Potato and Leek Soup 247 Purée of Turnip Soup 247 Purée of Watercress Soup 247 Purée of Mixed Vegetable Soup 247 Potage Solferino 247 Purée of Split Pea Soup 248 Purée of White Bean Soup 248 Purée of Yellow Split Pea Soup 248 Purée of Lentil Soup 248 Purée of Kidney Bean Soup 248 Purée of Black Bean Soup 248 Purée Mongole 248 Nonpuréed Bean Soups 248 Purée of Green Pea Soup with Mint Cream 249 Purée of Spring Vegetable Soup 249 Butternut Squash Soup with Caramelized Apples 250 Navy Bean Soup 250 Spicy Black Bean Soup 251 Chilled Leek and Potato Soup with Shrimp and Fennel Salad 252 Vichyssoise 252 Shrimp Bisque 253 Lobster Bisque 253 Potato Chowder 254 Corn Chowder 254 Corn and Crab Chowder with Basil 255 New England Clam Chowder 256 Manhattan Clam Chowder 256 New England Fish Chowder 256 French Onion Soup Gratinée 257 Avgolemono 258 Borscht 258 Cold Borscht 258 Gulyas 259 Southwestern Corn and Tomato Soup 259 Corn, Zucchini, and Tomato Soup 259 Vegetarian Corn Chili Soup 259 Seafood Gumbo 260 Chicken and Andouille Gumbo 260 Japanese Clear Soup with Shrimp 261 Miso Soup 261 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup 262 Chilled Tomato and Basil Soup 263 Ecuadorian Quinoa and Peanut Soup 263 Tortilla Soup 264 Mulligatawny Soup 265 Summer Vegetable and Smoked Tomato Soup 266 Red Lentil and Apricot Soup 266 Pho Bo (Vietnamese Beef and Rice Noodle Soup) 267 Caldo Verde 268 Zuppa di Ceci e Riso 268 Minestrone 269 Mediterranean Tomato and Bean Soup 270 Scotch Broth 270 Gazpacho 271 Chilled Tomato Soup with Moroccan Spices 272 Chilled Spiced Tomato Yogurt Soup 272 Honeydew Melon Soup 272 Cantaloupe Soup 272 Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game 309 Roast Rib of Beef au Jus 313 Roast Rib-Eye Roll, Top Round, Sirloin, or Strip Loin 313 Roast Beef with Gravy 313 Roast Beef Gravy 314 Jus Lié 314 Roast Loin of Pork with Sage and Apples 315 Roast Loin or Rack of Veal with Sage and Apples 315 Roast Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb 316 Roast Boneless Shoulder of Lamb 316 Roast Leg of Lamb 316 Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangère 316 Roast Rack of Lamb 318 Rack of Lamb aux Primeurs (with Spring Vegetables) 318 Rack of Lamb Persillé 318 Persillade 318 Roast Brined Pork Loin with Date and Gorgonzola Stuffing 319 Smoke-Roasted Pork Shoulder 320 Smoke-Roasted Shoulder of Boar 320 Spice Rub I 320 Spice Rub II 320 RECIPE CONTENTS xi

Barbecued Spareribs 321 Roast Pork Tenderloin with Kalbi Marinade 321 Baked Pork Chops with Prune Stuffing 322 Glazed Ham with Cider Sauce 322 Ham with Brown Cider Sauce 322 Fruit-Glazed Ham 322 Home-Style Meatloaf 323 Home-Style All-Beef Meatloaf 323 Italian-Style Meatloaf 323 Salisbury Steak 323 Baked Meatballs 323 Loin or Rack of Venison Grand Veneur 324 Leg of Venison Grand Veneur 324 Red Wine Marinade for Game 324 Roast Loin of Rabbit with Risotto 325 Broiled Strip Loin Steak Maître d’Hôtel 327 Broiled Lamb Chops 327 London Broil 328 Teriyaki-Style London Broil 328 Beef Fajitas 329 Broiled Smoked Pork Chop with Flageolet Beans and Wilted Arugula 329 Grilled Marinated Pork Tenderloin with Sweet Potato Purée and Warm Chipotle Salsa 330 Grilled Chopped Lamb “Steaks” with Rosemary and Pine Nuts 331 Grilled Chopped Beef “Steaks” with Marjoram 331 Shish Kebab 331 Broiled Lamb Kidneys with Bacon 332 Grilled Venison with Lime Butter 332 Grilled Loin of Elk 332 Breaded Veal Cutlets 335 Veal Cutlet Sauté Gruyère 335 Schnitzel à la Holstein 335 Veal Cutlet Viennese-Style (Wiener Schnitzel) 335 Veal Parmigiana 335 Veal Cordon Bleu 335 Breaded Pork Cutlets 335 Veal Scaloppine alla Marsala 336 Veal Scaloppine with Sherry 336 Veal Scaloppine à la Crème 336 Veal Scaloppine with Lemon 336 Veal Scaloppine with Mushrooms and Cream 336 Tournedos Vert-Pré 337 Tournedos Béarnaise 337 Tournedos Bordelaise 337 Tournedos Chasseur 337 Tournedos Rossini 337 Pork Chops Charcutière 338 Pork Chops Robert 338 Pork Chops Piquante 338 Veal Chops 338 Thai Green Curry of Pork with Vegetables 338 Thyme-Scented Medallions of Lamb with Balsamic Glaze 339 Beef Stroganoff 339 Calf’s Liver Lyonnaise 340 Medallions of Venison Poîvrade with Cassis 340 Medallions of Boar Poîvrade with Cassis 340 Steak en Chevreuil 341 Sautéed Veal Sweetbreads with Shiitake Mushrooms and Port Wine Sauce 341 Stir-Fried Beef with Bell Peppers 342 Costolette di Vitello Ripiene alla Valdostana (Veal Cutlets Val d’Aosta-Style) 343 Costolette alla Milanese (Cutlets Milan-Style) 343 Simmered Fresh Beef Brisket (“Boiled Beef”) 345 Simmered Pork Shoulder with Cabbage 345 New England Boiled Dinner 345 Blanquette of Veal 346 Blanquette of Lamb 346 Blanquette of Pork 346 Irish Lamb Stew 346 Tripes à la Mode de Caen 347 Pearl Balls 348 Fried Pork Balls 348 Wontons 348 Shredded Pork (Carnitas) 349 Picadillo 349 Shortcut Picadillo 349 Dillkött 349 Dillkött på Lamm 349 Lamb Tagine with Chickpeas 350 Poached Beef Tenderloin with Beef Short Rib Ravioli in Morel Consommé 351 Beef Short Ribs Sous Vide with Bordelaise Sauce 352 Beef Pot Roast 355 Braised Beef Jardinière 355 Braised Lamb Shoulder 355 Braised Short Ribs 356 Swiss Steak 356 Swiss Steaks in Tomato Sauce 356 Swiss Steaks with Sour Cream 356 Swiss Steaks in Red Wine Sauce 356 Braised Oxtails 356 Braised Lamb Shanks 356 Beef Stew 357 Beef Stew with Red Wine 357 Boeuf Bourguignon 357 Navarin of Lamb (Brown Lamb Stew) 357 Brown Veal Stew 357 Brown Veal with White Wine 357 Beef Pot Pie 357 Boeuf à la Mode (Beef Braised in Red Wine) 358 Lombatine di Maiale alla Napoletana (Braised Pork Chops Naples-Style) 359 Pollo con Peperoni all’Abruzzese 359 Provençal Beef Stew 360 Provençal Lamb Stew 360 Chile con Carne 361 xii RECIPE CONTENTS

RECIPE CONTENTS xiii Spicy Barbecue-Style Grilled Chicken 402 Grilled Chicken Marinated in Yogurt and Spices 402 Jerk Spice Mixture 403 Jerk Chicken 403 Grilled Quail Marinated in Soy Barbecue Sauce 404 Grilled Ostrich or Emu with Adobo Spices 404 Grilled Spiced Turkey Burger 405 Pan-Fried Chicken 407 Country-Style Fried Chicken 407 Sautéed Boneless Breast of Chicken with Mushroom Sauce 408 Deep-Fried Chicken 409 Fried Chicken Maryland 409 Fried Chicken Breast Strips 409 Turkey Scaloppine with Shiitake Mushrooms and Roasted Shallots 410 Quail with Balsamic Glaze 411 Quail with Creole Spices 412 Sautéed Chicken with Tomatoes and Mushrooms 413 Tangerine-Marinated Breast of Duck 414 Chicken Stir-Fry with Walnuts 415 Chicken Teriyaki 416 Chicken Breasts Parmesan 417 Vietnamese Stir-Fried Chicken with Chile 418 “Boiled” Fowl 420 Simmered Chicken or Turkey 420 Poached Chicken Breast Princesse 421 Poached Chicken Breast Florentine 421 Chicken or Turkey Pot Pie 422 Chicken or Turkey Stew 422 Chicken Blanquette I 422 Chicken Blanquette II 422 Chicken Blanquette à l’Ancienne (Ancient Style) 422 Chicken Blanquette Brunoise 422 Chicken Blanquette Argenteuil 422 Oyako Donburi 423 Tendon 423 Red-Cooked Chicken 424 Tea-Smoked Duck 425 Crispy Duck 425 Mole Poblano de Pollo or de Guajolote 426 Chicken Fricassée 428 Chicken Fricassée with Tarragon 428 Chicken Fricassée à l’Indienne 428 Fricassée of Turkey Wings 428 Veal Fricassée 428 Pork Fricassée 428 Fricassée à l’Ancienne 428 Fricassée Brunoise 428 Fricassée Argenteuil 428 Chicken Chasseur 429 Chicken Bercy 429 Chicken Portugaise 429 Chicken Hongroise 429 Chile with Beans 361 Game Chile 361 Texas Red 361 Texas Short Ribs 361 Braised Beef with Ancho Chiles 362 Veal Fricassée 362 Pork Fricassée 362 Osso Buco 363 Hungarian Goulash (Veal, Beef, or Pork) 364 Rabbit with Mustard 364 Lamb Vindaloo 365 Beef Vindaloo 365 Sauerbraten 366 Sauerbraten with Sour Cream Gravy 366 Braised Sweetbreads 367 Swedish Meatballs 367 Veal Curry with Mangos and Cashews 368 Lamb Curry 368 Saltimbocca alla Romana 369 Carbonnade à la Flammande 369 Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds 385 Baked Chicken 387 Baked Herbed Chicken 387 Baked Rosemary Chicken 387 Baked Chicken Parmesan 387 Roast Chicken with Natural Gravy 388 Roast Herbed Chicken 388 Roast Chicken with Gravy 388 Roast Chicken with Cream Gravy 388 Roast Turkey with Giblet Gravy 390 Roast Capons and Large Chickens 390 Roast Turkey, Chicken, or Capon with Cream Gravy 390 Roast Squab with Mushrooms 392 Roast Duckling à l’Orange 393 Roast Duckling, Bohemian Style 393 Roast Goose 393 Pan-Smoked Spiced Chicken Breasts with Fruit Salsa 394 Quail Baked with Prosciutto and Herbs 395 Stuffed Chicken Legs with Pecan Butter 396 Chicken Poêlé 398 Broiled Chicken 400 Broiled Chicken, Quantity Method 400 Broiled Rock Cornish Game Hen 400 Broiled Tarragon Chicken 400 Broiled Deviled Chicken (Poulet à la Diable) 400 Chicken Paillard with Grilled Vegetables 401 Grilled Spiced Squab with Couscous and Fig Compote 401 Grilled Spiced Cornish Hen 401 Grilled Chicken with Garlic and Ginger 402 Southwestern Grilled Chicken 402 Grilled Chicken Oriental Style 402

xiv RECIPE CONTENTS Escalope of Salmon with Red Wine Sauce 488 Escalope of Salmon with Herb Cream 488 Crab Cakes with Roasted Pepper Rémoulade 489 Cornmeal-Crusted Soft-Shell Crabs with Cornmeal Pancakes and Roasted Tomatoes 489 Peppered Haddock with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Parsley Sauce 490 Peppered Haddock with Purée of Flageolet Beans 490 Spicy Shrimp or Scallop Sauté 491 Shrimp and Cucumber in Thai Red Curry 492 Skate with Caper Butter 492 Pan-Fried Catfish with Shrimp Etouffée 493 Fried Breaded Fish Fillets 494 Fried Breaded Scallops 494 Fried Breaded Shrimp 494 Fried Oysters or Clams 494 Fish and Chips 495 Fisherman’s Platter 495 Cod Cakes 496 Salmon or Tuna Cakes 496 Deep-Fried Calamari with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Aïoli 497 Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura 498 Ordinary Court Bouillon for Fish 502 Court Bouillon with White Wine 502 Poached Whole Fish 503 Poached Fish Steaks 503 “Boiled” Shellfish (Lobster, Crab, Shrimp) 503 Sole Vin Blanc (Poached Fillets of Sole in White Wine Sauce) 504 Glazed Poached Fish 505 Poached Fish Bonne Femme 505 Poached Fish Dugléré 505 Poached Fish Mornay 505 Poached Fish Florentine 505 Sole Paupiettes with Seafood Mousseline 505 Seafood à la Nage 505 Pesce con Salsa Verde 506 Scallops and Shrimp à la Nage 507 Salmon à la Nage 507 Zuppa di Vongole 508 Zuppa di Cozze 508 Zuppa di Frutti di Mare 508 Zuppa di Pesce 508 Lobster à l’Americaine 511 Lobster Newburg 511 Shrimp à l’Americaine or Shrimp Newburg 511 Moules Marinière (Steamed Mussels) 512 Steamed Mussels (without wine) 512 Mussels in Cream 512 Mackerel en Papillote 513 Steamed Sea Bass with Garlic and Ginger 514 Seafood Newburg 514 Seafood Curry 514 Fisherman’s Stew 515 Braised Duckling with Sauerkraut 430 Braised Duckling with Cabbage 430 Paprika Chicken 430 Chicken alla Cacciatora 431 Chicken Braised with Vinegar 432 Pheasant en Cocotte 432 Salmis of Partridge 433 Coq au Vin 434 Arroz con Pollo (Spanish Rice with Chicken) 435 Chicken Couscous 436 Duck Confit 437 Basic Bread Dressing 439 Sausage Dressing 439 Chestnut Dressing 439 Mushroom Dressing 439 Giblet Dressing 439 Cornbread Dressing 439 Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish 471 Baked Cod Fillets Portugaise 473 Baked Fish with Tomatoes and Mushrooms 474 Baked Fish à la Menagère 474 Baked Stuffed Mackerel 474 Baked Pike Fillets English Style 475 Baked Clams Oreganata 475 Pan-Smoked Salmon Fillet with Pepper Salad 476 Baked Oysters with Balsamic Vinegar, Arugula, and Pine Nuts 476 Roasted Monkfish with Spinach and White Beans 477 Broiled Fish Steaks Maître d’Hôtel 479 Grilled Tuna with Balsamic Vinaigrette and Sweet-Sour Baby Onions 480 Grilled Mahi-Mahi with Fruit Salsa 481 Broiled Mako Shark Steaks with Browned Garlic Vinaigrette 481 Broiled Salmon in Escabeche 482 Broiled Lobster 483 Broiled Rock Lobster Tail 483 Broiled Shrimp, Scampi Style 484 Shrimp Brochettes 484 Broiled Scallops 484 Broiled Fish Fillets or Steaks with Garlic Butter 484 Oysters Casino 485 Clams Casino 485 Fillets of Sole Meunière 487 Fillets of Fish Doré 487 Trout Meunière 487 Fish Sauté Amandine 487 Fish Sauté Grenobloise 487 Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs 487 Sautéed Scallops with Tomato, Garlic, and Parsley 488 Sautéed Shrimp 488

Seafood Casserole au Gratin 516 Salmon or Tuna Casserole 516 Sea Bass Sous Vide with Asian Sweet-and-Sour Sauce 516 Tuna Carpaccio 517 Sushi Rice 518 Nigirizushi (Finger Sushi) 518 Chirashizushi (Scatter Sushi) 518 Tekka-maki (Tuna Roll) 518 Kappa-maki (Cucumber Roll) 518 Tuna Tartare 520 Salmon Tartare 520 Tartare of Salmon and Sea Bass 520 Scallop Seviche 521 Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables 561 Peas, Carrots, and Pearl Onions with Tarragon Butter 565 Buttered Vegetables 565 Herbed Vegetables 565 Amandine 565 Hollandaise 565 Polonaise 565 Creamed Spinach 566 Creamed Vegetables 566 Broccoli Mornay 566 Broccoli with Cheddar Cheese Sauce 566 Puréed Butternut Squash 567 Mashed Rutabagas or Yellow Turnips 567 Cauliflower au Gratin 567 Green Beans with Sesame Dressing 568 Sesame Miso Dressing 568 Pan-Steamed Kohlrabi with Parsley 568 Green Beans with Roasted Peppers and Bacon 569 Green Beans with Pecans and Browned Shallots 569 Collards with Ham 569 Onion Compote 570 Artichokes Clamart 571 Cipolline in Agrodolce (Sweet-Sour Onions) 571 Glazed Root Vegetables 572 Glazed Carrots (Carrots Vichy) 572 Spinaci alla Romana (Roman-Style Spinach) 573 Spinaci alla Piemontese 573 Ragoût of Summer Vegetables 574 Artichokes Cooked Sous Vide in a Warm Vinaigrette, and Aromatic Vegetables 575 Zucchini Sauté Provençal 577 Shredded Zucchini with Shallots 577 Zucchini with Tomatoes 577 Zucchini with Cream 577 Sautéed Mushrooms 577 Creamed Mushrooms 577 Duxelles 577 Pan-Fried Eggplant with Tomato Sauce 578 Pan-Fried Eggplant Creole 578 Eggplant Parmigiana 578 Sunchoke Galettes 578 Stir-Fry of Asparagus, Green Beans, and Snow Peas 579 Corn with Poblanos 579 Gratin of Corn and Poblanos 579 Corn and Poblanos in Cream 579 Stir-Fried Mixed Vegetables 580 Mixed Vegetables with Thai Green Curry 581 Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts 582 Braised Red Cabbage 583 Braised Green or White Cabbage 583 Sauerkraut 584 Braised Fresh Sauerkraut 584 Choucroute Garni 584 Fresh Sauerkraut 584 Peas à la Française 585 Braised Celery 585 Braised Celery Hearts 585 Braised Celery with Brown Sauce 585 Braised Celery Root 585 Braised Lettuce 585 Ratatouille 586 Lecsó 586 Eggplant, Sichuan Style 587 Gratin of Fennel 587 Baked Acorn Squash 589 Gingered Squash 589 Puréed Squash 589 Roasted Onion Purée 589 Roasted Winter Vegetables 590 Roasted Onions 590 Roasted Summer Vegetables 590 Roasted Beets with Beet Greens 591 Roasted Garlic 592 Glazed Sweet Potatoes 592 Spaghetti Squash with Tomato Confit 593 Spinach Timbales 594 Southwestern Corn and Pinto Bean Gratin 594 Corn Pudding 594 Elote con Queso 595 Moussaka 595 Grilled Vegetable Kebabs 596 Grilled Vegetable Medley 597 Broiled Tomato Slices 597 Herbed Broiled Tomatoes 597 Parmesan Broiled Tomatoes 597 Onion Rings 599 Beer Batter 599 Other Fried Vegetables 599 RECIPE CONTENTS xv

xvi RECIPE CONTENTS Lorette Potatoes 626 Dauphine Potatoes 626 Chapter 19 Legumes, Grains, Pasta, and Other Starches 629 White Beans, Bretonne Style 633 Baked Beans, New England Style 633 Michigan Baked Beans 633 Frijoles de la Olla (Mexican Pinto Beans) 634 Frijoles Refritos 634 Vegetarian Pinto Beans 634 Black Bean Cakes with Salsa 634 Green Lentils with Celery Root and Mustard 635 Hoppin’ John 635 Pasta e Fagioli 636 Purée of Flageolet Beans with Garlic 637 Flageolet Beans with Wilted Arugula 637 Masoor Dal (Red Lentils with Spices) 637 Cranberry Beans with Asparagus 638 Chickpeas in Spicy Tomato Sauce 639 Boiled and Steamed Rice 644 Rice Pilaf 647 Tomato Pilaf 647 Spanish Rice 647 Turkish Pilaf 647 Cracked Wheat Pilaf 647 Orzo Pilaf 647 Barley Pilaf 647 Additions to Rice Pilaf 647 Risotto alla Parmigiana 648 Risotto Milanese 648 Risotto with Mushrooms 648 Risi Bisi 648 Basic Fried Rice 650 Bulgur Pilaf with Lemon 650 Arroz à la Mexicana 651 Arroz Verde 651 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Ham 651 Wheatberries with Pecans and Poblanos 652 Brown Rice, Barley, Farro, or Cracked Wheat with Pecans and Poblanos 652 Paella 653 Polenta 654 Polenta con Sugo di Pomodoro 654 Polenta con Salsicce 654 Polento al Burro e Formaggio 654 Polenta Fritta or Grigliata 654 Polenta Grassa 654 Polenta Pasticciata 654 Grits with Cheddar Cheese 655 Farrotto with Pecorino Cheese 656 Kasha Pilaf with Egg 656 Fresh Egg Pasta 662 Spinach Pasta 662 Vegetable Fritters 600 Fruit Fritters 600 Chiles Rellenos 600 Chapter 18 Potatoes 603 Boiled Potatoes (Pommes Natures) 608 Steamed Potatoes (Pommes Vapeurs) 608 Parsley Potatoes 608 New Potatoes 608 Creamed Potatoes 608 Hungarian Potatoes 609 Bouillon Potatoes 609 Colcannon 609 Potato and Eggplant Stew with Cilantro 610 Mashed or Whipped Potatoes 611 Garlic Mashed Potatoes 611 Ancho Mashed Potatoes 611 Duchesse Potatoes 612 Baked Potatoes 614 Stuffed Baked Potatoes 615 Macaire Potatoes 615 Oven Roast Potatoes 615 Roasted New Potatoes with Herbs and Garlic 616 Scalloped Potatoes 616 Scalloped Potatoes with Onions 616 Scalloped Potatoes with Cheese 616 Scalloped Potatoes with Ham 616 Gratin Dauphinoise I 617 Gratin Dauphinoise II 617 Savoyarde Potatoes 617 Boulangère Potatoes 618 Potatoes au Gratin 618 Anna Potatoes 619 Voisin Potatoes 619 Rissolé or Cocotte Potatoes 620 Parisienne and Noisette Potatoes 620 Château Potatoes 620 Hash Brown Potatoes 621 Rösti Potatoes 621 Lyonnaise Hash Browns 621 Lyonnaise Potatoes 622 Home Fries or American Fries 622 Potatoes O’Brien 622 Potato Pancakes 622 Potatoes with Chickpeas and Chiles 623 French Fries 625 Pont-Neuf Potatoes 625 Allumette Potatoes (Shoestring or Matchstick Potatoes) 625 Straw Potatoes 625 Steakhouse Fries 625 Potato Chips 625 Waffle or Gaufrette Potatoes 625 Potato Croquettes 626 Berny Potatoes 626

RECIPE CONTENTS xvii Chapter 21 Salad Dressings and Salads 699 Basic Vinaigrette 703 Mustard Vinaigrette 703 Herbed Vinaigrette 703 Lemon Vinaigrette 703 Balsamic Vinaigrette 703 Italian Dressing 703 Piquante Dressing 703 Chiffonade Dressing 703 Avocado Dressing 703 Blue Cheese or Roquefort Vinaigrette 703 American French or Tomato French Dressing 703 Sauce Gribiche 704 Oriental Vinaigrette 704 Reduced-Fat Vinaigrette 704 Fat-Free Vinaigrette 705 Fat-Free Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette 705 Mayonnaise 707 Mayonnaise-Based Dressings 707 Thousand Island Dressing 707 Louis Dressing 707 Russian Dressing 707 Chantilly Dressing 707 Blue Cheese Dressing 707 Ranch Dressing 707 Aïoli II 707 Emulsified French Dressing 707 Caesar Dressing 708 Sour Cream Fruit Salad Dressing 708 Yogurt Fruit Salad Dressing 708 Cooked Salad Dressing 709 Honey Lemon Dressing 709 Honey Cream Dressing 709 Honey Lime Dressing 709 Fruit Salad Dressing 709 Low-Fat Buttermilk Yogurt Dressing 710 Mixed Green Salad 726 Spinach Salad 726 Caesar Salad (Method 1: Tableside Preparation) 727 Caesar Salad (Method 2: Pantry Preparation) 727 Grilled Chicken Caesar 727 Garden Salad 728 Coleslaw 729 Mixed Cabbage Slaw 729 Carrot Coleslaw 729 Garden Slaw 729 Coleslaw with Fruit 729 Roasted Pepper Salad 730 Cucumbers and Onions in Sour Cream 730 Cucumber and Onion Salad 730 Mushrooms à la Grecque 731 Carrot Salad 732 Carrot Raisin Salad 732 Carrot Pineapple Salad 732 Other Colored Pastas 662 Whole Wheat Pasta 662 Buckwheat Pasta 662 Ravioli with Cheese Filling 663 Italian Tomato Sauce for Pasta 664 Meat Sauce 664 Tomato Cream Sauce 664 Tomato Sauce with Sausage 664 Tomato Sauce with Sausage and Eggplant 664 Tomato Sauce with Ham and Rosemary 664 Fettuccine Alfredo 665 Fettuccine with Vegetables I (Fettuccine Primavera) 665 Fettuccine with Vegetables II 665 Fettuccine Bolognese 665 Fettuccine with Seafood 665 Fettuccine with Gorgonzola 665 Bolognese Sauce (Ragù Bolognese) 666 Spaghettini Puttanesca 666 Spaghetti Carbonara 667 Linguine with White Clam Sauce 668 Baked Lasagne (Lasagne al Forno) 668 Pesto (Fresh Basil Sauce) 669 Vegetable Ravioli in Lemongrass Broth 669 Rigatoni or Penne with Sausage and Clams 670 Rigatoni or Penne with Sausage, Peppers, and Tomatoes 670 Macaroni and Cheese 670 Fettuccine with Chiles and Grilled Chicken 671 Pizzoccheri 672 Whole Wheat Maltagliate with Porcini and Peas 673 Pad Thai 674 Vegan Pad Thai 674 Rice Sticks, Singapore Style 675 Potato Dumplings 676 Spaetzle 677 Potato Gnocchi with Tomato Sauce 678 Chapter 20 Cooking for Vegetarian Diets 681 Yellow Split Pea and Vegetable Curry with Spiced Rice and Cucumber Raita 689 Vegan Vegetable and Split Pea Curry 689 Noodle Bowl with Stir-Fried Vegetables, Tofu, and Peanuts 690 Zucchini and Eggplant Lasagne 691 Pinto Bean Enchiladas 692 Three-Bean Chili with Tostaditas 693 Red Rice, Spinach with Tofu Dressing, and Eggplant Dengaku 694 Vietnamese Vegetable Pancakes 695 Winter Vegetable Gratin with Feta Cheese and Bulgur Pilaf 696 Falafel 697

Carrot Celery Salad 732 Celery Salad 732 Mixed Vegetable Salad with Pasta 733 Heirloom Tomato Salad 733 Insalata Caprese 733 Pacific Rim Salad with Beef 734 Vegetable Chopped Salad with Kidney Beans and Provolone 735 Greek Salad 735 Mixed Bean Salad with Olives and Tomatoes 736 White Bean Salad 736 Panzanella 736 Quinoa Salad with Bell Peppers 737 Lentil Salad 737 Broccoli, Prosciutto, and Sunflower Salad 738 Tabbouleh 738 Wheatberry Salad with Mint 739 Chicken or Turkey Salad 740 Egg Salad 740 Tuna or Salmon Salad 740 Macedoine of Vegetables Mayonnaise 741 Ham Salad 741 Ham Salad Spread 741 Deviled Ham 741 Corned Beef Salad 741 Macaroni and Ham Salad 741 Potato Salad 742 French Potato Salad 743 Hot German Potato Salad 743 Dilled Shrimp Salad 743 Crab or Lobster Salad 743 Crab, Shrimp, or Lobster Louis 743 Rice and Shrimp Salad 743 Curried Rice Salad with Shrimp 743 Waldorf Salad 744 Arugula, Citrus, and Fennel Salad 745 Thai Papaya and Mango Salad 745 Chef’s Salad 746 Rohkostsalatteller (German Vegetable Salad) 747 Roasted Beet Salad with Gorgonzola 748 Salade Niçoise 749 Cobb Salad 750 Chicken Breast Salad with Walnuts and Blue Cheese 751 Salad of Seared Sea Scallops with Oriental Vinaigrette 752 Stuffed Tomato Salad with Tuna 752 Goat Cheese and Walnut Salad 753 Mixed Green Salad with Blue Cheese and Walnuts 753 Taco Salad 754 Jellied Fruit Salad 756 Basic Flavored Gelatin with Fruit 757 Chapter 22 Sandwiches 761 California Burger 769 California Cheeseburger 769 Cheeseburger (Plain) 769 Cheeseburger with Bacon 769 California Cheeseburger Deluxe 769 Submarine Sandwich 769 Club Sandwich 770 Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato Sandwich (BLT) 770 Reuben Sandwich 770 Grilled Cheese Sandwich 771 Grilled Ham and Swiss Sandwich 771 Croque Monsieur 771 Grilled Cheese and Bacon Sandwich 771 Monte Cristo Sandwich 771 Turkey BLT Wrap 772 Vegetarian Wrap with White Beans 772 Falafel and Roasted Vegetables in Pita 773 Traditional Falafel in Pita 773 Tahini Yogurt Dressing 773 Southwestern Grilled Salmon Sandwich 774 Chili Marinade 774 Barbecued Pork or Beef Sandwich 775 Smoked Ham and Taleggio Panino 775 Eggplant, Roasted Pepper, and Fontina Panino 776 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Goat Cheese and Sun-Dried Tomatoes 776 Grilled Portobello and Boursin Sandwich 777 Grilled Portobello and Tomato Sandwich 777 Grilled Chicken Aïoli Sandwich with Tomato and Avocado 777 Pizza Margherita 778 Pizza Marinara 778 Chapter 23 Hors d’Oeuvres 781 Blue Cheese Dip 787 Cheddar Cheese Dip 787 Garlic Cheese Dip 787 Bacon Cheese Dip 787 Cheese and Chile Dip 787 Romesco 788 Hummus (Chickpea Dip) 788 Babaganouj 788 Guacamole 789 Sour Cream Avocado Dip 789 Parmesan Dip 789 Prosciutto and Melon Balls 792 Spinach Boreks 793 Rumaki 794 Chicken Satay 794 Beef Teriyaki Skewers 795 xviii RECIPE CONTENTS

RECIPE CONTENTS xix Chapter 25 Dairy and Beverages 833 Welsh Rabbit 844 Sirniki (Russian Fried Cheese Cakes) 844 Swiss Fondue 845 Cheese Wafers 845 Cheese Straws 845 Chapter 26 Sausages and Cured Foods 853 Gravlax 857 Smoked Salmon 858 Smoked Trout 858 Smoked Duck 859 Smoked Turkey or Chicken 859 Quatre Épices I 867 Quatre Épices II 867 Pork Sausage 867 Toulouse Sausage 867 Crêpinettes 867 French Garlic Sausage 868 Hot Italian Sausage 868 Mild Italian Sausage 868 Spicy Garlic Sausage 868 Veal or Beef Sausage 868 Venison Sausage 868 Fresh Bratwurst 869 Lamb Sausage 869 Herbed Lamb Sausage 869 Duck Sausage 868 Boudin Blanc (White Sausage) 870 Mortadella 871 Bologna 871 Cajun-Style Sausage 872 Andouille 872 Smoked Garlic Sausage 873 Cured Garlic Sausage 873 Chapter 27 Pâtés, Terrines, and Other Cold Foods 875 Classic Chaud-Froid 879 Mayonnaise Chaud-Froid 879 Basic Pork Forcemeat 884 Veal Forcemeat 884 Chicken Forcemeat I 884 Chicken Forcemeat II 884 Duck, Pheasant, or Game Forcemeat 884 Pâté Pastry (Pâte à Pâté) 885 Veal and Ham Terrine 889 Veal and Ham Terrine with Foie Gras 889 Veal and Tongue Terrine 889 Rabbit Terrine 889 Country Terrine 889 Game Terrine 889 Duck Terrine 889 Dates Stuffed with Gorgonzola 795 Dates Stuffed with Manchego Cheese 795 Date Rumaki 795 Smoked Trout Rollups 796 Smoked Trout Purses 796 Cucumber Cups with Dilled Shrimp Salad 796 Crêpes 797 Dessert Crêpes 797 Belgian Endive with Herbed Chèvre 798 Profiteroles with Ham Salad or Deviled Ham 798 Chicken and Sweet Potato Fritters 799 Spiced Shrimp with Smoked Paprika 800 Mushrooms Stuffed with Tapenade 800 Deviled Eggs 801 Miniature Gougère Puffs 801 Egg Rolls or Spring Rolls 802 Black Bean Quesadillas 802 Chicken Liver Pâté 804 Brandade de Morue 804 Bruschetta (Basic) 805 Bruschetta with Tomato and Basil 805 Bruschetta with Parmesan Cheese 805 Bruschetta with White Beans and Prosciutto 805 Spicy Meat Empanadas 806 Empanadas with Roasted Poblanos and Cheese 806 Vegetable Samosas 806 Meat Samosas 806 Potato Filling for Samosas 807 Meat Filling for Samosas 807 Cauliflower Pakoras 808 Chapter 24 Breakfast Preparation 811 Eggs Benedict 817 Eggs Florentine 817 Eggs Bombay 817 Huevos Rancheros 819 Summer Squash, Spinach, and Leek Frittata 823 Cheese Soufflé 824 Spinach Soufflé 824 Spinach and Ham Soufflé 824 Mushroom Soufflé 824 Other Vegetable Soufflés 824 Salmon Soufflé 824 Quiche au Fromage (Cheese Tart) 825 Quiche Lorraine 825 Onion Quiche 825 Spinach Quiche 825 Mushroom Quiche 825 Seafood Quiche 825 Buttermilk Pancakes 827 Waffles 827 Buckwheat Pancakes 828 Cinnamon Raisin French Toast 829

Corn Muffins 963 Bran Muffins 963 Crumb Coffee Cake 963 Banana Bread 964 Popovers 964 Corn Bread, Muffins, or Sticks 965 Orange Nut Bread 965 Chapter 32 Cakes and Icings 967 Yellow Butter Cake 976 Chocolate Butter Cake 976 Brown Sugar Spice Cake 977 Carrot Nut Cake 977 Old-Fashioned Pound Cake 977 Raisin Pound Cake 977 Chocolate Pound Cake 977 Marble Pound Cake 977 White Cake 978 Yellow Cake 978 Devil’s Food Cake 978 Sponge Cake (Genoise) 979 Chocolate Genoise 978 Sponge Roll or Jelly Roll 979 Milk and Butter Sponge 979 Jelly Roll Sponge 980 Yellow Chiffon Cake 980 Chocolate Chiffon Cake 980 Angel Food Cake 980 Chocolate Angel Food Cake 980 Simple Buttercream 982 Decorator’s Buttercream 982 Cream Cheese Icing 982 Meringue-Type Buttercream 982 French Buttercream 983 Chocolate Buttercream 983 Coffee Buttercream 983 Flat Icing 984 Caramel Fudge Icing 984 Quick White Fudge Icing 984 Quick Chocolate Fudge Icing 984 Cocoa Fudge Icing 985 Vanilla Fudge Icing 985 Chocolate Ganache 986 Chapter 33 Cookies 991 Chocolate Chip Cookies 997 Brown Sugar Nut Cookies 997 Oatmeal Raisin Cookies 997 Tea Cookies 998 Almond Tea Cookies 998 Sandwich-Type Cookies 998 Chocolate Tea Cookies 998 Ladyfingers 998 Chicken Galantine 890 Basic Mousseline Forcemeat 891 Herbed Mousseline 891 Terrine of Vegetables with Chicken Mousseline 892 Seafood Terrine with Vegetables 892 Jambon Persillé (Parsleyed Ham in Aspic) 894 Terrine of Vegetables and Chicken in Aspic 895 Terrine of Vegetables with Foie Gras in Aspic 895 Lentil and Leek Terrine with Smoked Turkey and Prosciutto 896 Tricolor Vegetable Terrine 897 Ham Mousse 898 Mousse of Foie Gras 898 Terrine of Foie Gras 901 Chicken Liver Terrine 902 Rillettes of Pork 902 Rillettes of Duck, Goose, Rabbit, Turkey, or Chicken 902 Rillettes of Salmon, Haddock, or Finnan Haddie 903 Chapter 30 Yeast Products 937 Hard Rolls 944 Soft Rolls 944 French Bread 945 White Pan Bread 945 Whole Wheat Bread 945 Rye Bread and Rolls 946 Focaccia 946 Rosemary Focaccia 946 Olive Focaccia 946 Brioche 947 Sweet Roll Dough 947 Raised Doughnuts 947 Danish Pastry 949 Croissants 949 Cinnamon Sugar 950 Streusel or Crumb Topping 950 Nut Streusel 950 Clear Glaze for Coffee Cakes and Danish 950 Date, Prune, or Apricot Filling 951 Almond Filling 951 Cheese Filling 951 Chapter 31 Quick Breads 959 Biscuits 962 Buttermilk Biscuits 962 Cheese Biscuits 962 Currant Biscuits 962 Herb Biscuits 962 Plain Muffins 963 Raisin Spice Muffins 963 Date Nut Muffins 963 Blueberry Muffins 963 Whole Wheat Muffins 963 xx RECIPE CONTENTS

Chapter 35 Creams, Custards, Puddings, Frozen Desserts, and Sauces 1033 Crème Anglaise (Vanilla Custard Sauce) 1036 Chocolate Crème Anglaise 1036 Vanilla Pastry Cream 1037 Chocolate Pastry Cream 1037 Coffee Pastry Cream 1037 Cream Pie Fillings Vanilla Cream Pie Filling 1037 Coconut Cream Pie Filling 1037 Banana Cream Pie Filling 1037 Chocolate Cream Pie Filling I 1037 Chocolate Cream Pie Filling II 1037 Butterscotch Cream Pie Filling 1037 Lemon Pie Filling 1037 Cream Puddings Vanilla Pudding 1037 Coconut Pudding 1037 Banana Cream Pudding 1037 Chocolate Pudding I and II 1037 Butterscotch Pudding 1037 Baked Custard 1038 Crème Caramel 1038 Blancmange, English Style 1039 Rice Pudding 1040 Raisin Rice Pudding 1040 Bread and Butter Pudding 1040 Bavarian Cream 1043 Chocolate Bavarian Cream 1043 Coffee Bavarian Cream 1043 Strawberry Bavarian Cream 1043 Raspberry Bavarian Cream 1043 Strawberry Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1044 Raspberry Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1044 Pineapple Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1044 Frozen Strawberry or Raspberry Mousse 1044 Chocolate Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1045 Chocolate Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 1045 Lemon Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1046 Lime Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1046 Orange Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1046 Frozen Lemon Mousse 1046 Pumpkin Chiffon Dessert or Pie Filling 1947 Pumpkin Cream Chiffon 1047 Vanilla Soufflé 1048 Chocolate Soufflé 1048 Lemon Soufflé 1048 Liqueur Soufflé 1048 Coffee Soufflé 1048 Chocolate Mousse 1049 Chocolate Sauce 1052 Caramel Sauce 1052 Hot Caramel Sauce 1052 Clear Caramel Sauce 1052 Coconut Macaroons (Meringue Type) 999 Sugar Cookies 999 Rolled Brown Sugar Cookies 999 Rolled Chocolate Cookies 999 Shortbread Cookies 999 Cinnamon Cookies 1000 Chocolate Cinnamon Cookies 1000 Raisin Spice Bars 1000 Peanut Butter Cookies 1001 Icebox Cookies 1001 Butterscotch Icebox Cookies 1001 Chocolate Icebox Cookies 1001 Nut Icebox Cookies 1001 Brownies 1002 Butterscotch Brownies or Blondies 1002 Almond Biscotti 1003 Chapter 34 Pies and Pastries 1005 Flaky Pie Dough 1008 Mealy Pie Dough 1008 Graham Cracker Crust 1009 Short Dough 1009 Apple Pie Filling (Canned Fruit) 1014 Dutch Apple Pie Filling 1014 Cherry Pie Filling 1014 Peach Pie Filling 1014 Pineapple Pie Filling 1014 Blueberry Pie Filling (Frozen Fruit) 1015 Apple Pie Filling 1015 Cherry Pie Filling 1015 Fresh Strawberry Pie Filling 1015 Rhubarb Pie Filling 1016 Fresh Apple Pie Filling 1016 Raisin Pie Filling 1016 Old-Fashioned Apple Pie Filling 1017 Custard Pie Filling 1018 Coconut Custard Pie Filling 1018 Pecan Pie Filling 1018 Pumpkin Pie Filling 1019 Sweet Potato Pie Filling 1019 Squash Pie Filling 1019 Puff Pastry 1020 Blitz Puff Pastry 1022 Éclair Paste or Pâte à Choux 1025 Meringue 1027 Fruit Cobbler 1028 Apple Betty 1029 Apple Crisp 1029 Peach, Cherry, or Rhubarb Crisp 1029 Poached Pears 1030 Pears in Wine 1030 Poached Peaches 1030 Peaches in Wine 1030 Raspberry or Cherry Gratin 1030 RECIPE CONTENTS xxi

OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND xxii I n preparing this new Seventh Edition of Professional Cooking, I’ve been struck forcefully by two truths: culinary education has advanced greatly and evolved with the times, and, at the same time, the core curriculum has stayed focused on the essentials, the basic cooking techniques that are the foundation of success in the kitchen. The changes seen since the First Edition was published have been in many areas: advances in nutritional understanding; changes in diets, with greater emphasis on vegetables, grains, and other healthful ingredients; stronger sanitation and safety standards; increased understanding and appreciation of ingredients, techniques, and recipes from regional and international cuisines, and the adaptation of these ingredients and techniques to our own cooking; greater understanding of food science and its applications in the kitchen; and revolutionary new directions in cooking practices, such as sous vide techniques and molecular gastronomy. Each new edition of Professional Cooking, including this one, has incorporated new material reflecting these changes while retaining its focus on the center of a chef’s training—the comprehensive understanding of ingredients and basic food preparation procedures, and the development of manual skills to apply this knowledge. What’s New Readers of the Seventh Edition of Professional Cookingwill find a great deal of new and revised material reflecting advances in culinary practices and techniques. Among the most important changes are those detailed below. In addition, many other revisions and improvements have been incorporated throughout the text in a continuing effort to meet the needs of a wide range of schools and curriculums. • More than 200 new photographs were added throughout the book, illustrating in even more detail the essential techniques and procedures of a chef’s craft as well as finished dishes, key ingredients, and equipment. • Close to 100 new recipes are included, reflecting the increasing diversity of dishes in North American cuisine. • International and regional cuisines receive increased attention. New material brings the total of international recipes to approximately 130. These recipes are indicated by a globe (see icon at right) in both the text and the Recipe Contents, beginning on page ix. New sidebars throughout the text give background information on these recipes and the cuisines and cultures they come from. • Core recipes are those specifically designed to illustrate and reinforce basic cooking techniques, and are indicated by a chef’s hat (see icon at right). They are placed where appropriate throughout the book. • As with the previous edition, important information devoted to vegetarianism and cooking for the various types of vegetarian diets is included. Recipes suitable for a vegetarian diet are indicated by the new symbol shown here. • Food science gets expanded treatment. Chefs are making ever more use of scientific principles to cook with greater precision. • Culinary math is often a difficult subject for students. The explanations of the calculations needed in the kitchen were revised for greater clarity and detail. • Sanitation and safety information is more detailed and up to date, in keeping with current Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Conference for Food Protection (CFP) standards. • Techniques of sous vide cooking are introduced, with emphasis on safety factors. • An introduction to the avant-garde techniques of molecular gastronomy was added, with recipes to illustrate significant techniques. Of course it would take volumes to do justice to such a large and expanding subject, but the material here gives students a taste of an important new trend. • To aid study and comprehension, “Key Points to Review” were added at strategic points in each chapter. The Recipes The recipes in this book are planned and organized to reinforce the basic skills being taught. In each case, specific recipes follow a discussion of theories, guidelines, and general procedures applicable to a defined category of foods and/or cooking methods. Students are encouraged, by means of recipe variations, to see how they can apply these procedures to other ingredients, and to see the similarities and differences among preparations. Attention to the basics has always been the hallmark of this text. Because the purpose of the book is to teach fundamental cooking techniques, it is important to illustrate them—and to allow the student to experience them—with fundamental, straightforward recipes Preface international recipes core recipes vegetarian recipes

that reveal the connection between general theory and specific application in the most direct way. Many new recipes have been added to this edition to provide updates and alternatives that will achieve these goals. Certain recipes, usually those that directly follow an explanation of a procedure, are chosen because they are clear and direct applications of a fundamental technique. These core recipes give the student the opportunity to learn the technique by applying it in the most straightforward way, without the distraction of unusual techniques or unfamiliar ingredients. Of the more than 1,200 recipes in the book, about 70 are designated as core recipes and are indicated by a special icon, as explained previously. Even if students produce no other recipes, practicing these core recipes, or comparable ones the instructor may wish to substitute, will give them a basic foundation in food preparation. While basic preparations illustrating fundamental principles are the core of the recipe collection, the book builds on these primary techniques to include more advanced styles of preparation. More challenging recipes, including many new to this edition, enable students to refine their techniques and to prepare dishes of increasing sophistication. What makes a dish feel modern is as much a matter of presentation as it is of ingredients or recipe instructions. How an item, along with its garnish and sauce, is plated can make it look rustic or elegant, simple or elaborate, traditional or modern. Photographs accompanying the recipes illustrate a variety of preparations and plating styles. As the photographs show, a simple item such as a sautéed chicken breast can be as stylish as a complicated dish requiring exotic or expensive ingredients. Readers are urged to study Chapter 5, “Menus, Recipes, and Cost Management,” before proceeding with any of the recipes. This will ensure they know how to use the recipes in this book as well as understand the structure and limitations of the many recipes they will use in their careers. While every culinary program has different requirements, the recipes in this book should be adaptable to any purpose. Most major recipes are written for 24 or 25 portions, a quantity that can be converted easily to higher or lower yields if necessary. Those recipes requiring more costly ingredients, those that are generally made to order, and those that are particularly complex are written for smaller yields, such as 8, 10, 12, or 16 portions. In addition, variations often indicate ingredient substitutions so the recipes will fit different budgetary requirements and different local or regional tastes. Nutritional Information Cooks and chefs are increasingly aware of the importance of preparing healthful foods. To support this effort, nutritional analyses are included for each main recipe. These analyses were done using the software program Genesis R&D 8.4.0, which calculates nutrients based on ingredients. It is important to realize that the actual nutrients in a prepared dish will vary depending on many factors, just as the taste, texture, and appearance of the dish will vary with the skill of the cook and the quality of the ingredients. The following factors should also be taken into account when reading the nutritional analyses: • Where a portion size is indicated in the recipe, the analysis is per portion. Where there is no portion size, as for stock and sauce recipes as well as most of the recipes in the baking chapters, the analysis is usually per ounce (28.35 g) or per fluid ounce (29.57 mL); for most hors d’oeuvre recipes, analysis is per piece. • The following ingredients are not included in the analyses: ingredients listed “to taste” or “as needed”; ingredients in sachets and bouquets garnis; optional ingredients; garnishes such as parsley sprigs. • Stocks are adjusted for removal of bones, mirepoix, and other ingredients that are strained out. • Ingredients in mirepoix are not included, except for a small amount of sodium. • If a range is given for an ingredient quantity, the smaller number was used for analysis. • Adjustments are made for recipes in which the food is degreased or the fat is skimmed off. The amount of fat remaining will vary depending on how thoroughly the item is degreased. • Fat was calculated for pan-fried and deep-fried foods based on a percentage of the total weight. The amount of fat actually absorbed will vary depending on the temperature of the fat, the cooking time, and the surface area of the food. • For marinated foods, 10 percent of the marinade is included in the analysis, unless the marinade is used to make a sauce, in which case all the marinade is, of course, included. • The amount of fat used for sautéing was estimated for the analysis. • The numbers for each nutrient are rounded off according to FDA rounding rules for food labeling. • The “(% cal.)” information following the fat content in each analysis refers to percentage of calories from fat. It cannot be used to determine percentage of fat in the total diet. To help you become more aware of the fat content of prepared foods, those dishes especially low in fat are designated by the heart symbol (see icon at right). Low in fat means, according to FDA labeling laws, that the food contains 3 grams of fat or less per reference amount (or serving size indicated in the analysis) if the reference amount is greater than 30 grams (about 1 ounce). This is to prevent making foods sound low in fat just by making the portion size smaller. Main-dish items and meals (weighing at least 6 ounces per serving and containing two or more from the four food groups— bread, cereal, rice and pasta; fruits and vegetables; milk, yogurt and cheese; or meat, poultry, fish, dry beans, eggs, and nuts) must contain 3 grams of fat or less per 100 grams and not more than 30 percent of calories from fat. Goals and Organization of This Book This book has a dual goal: understanding—that is, an understanding of cooking theory, of how to cook—and performing—that is, mastery of a set of manual skills and the ability to apply them to a wide range of cooking styles and products. PREFACE xxiii low in fat recipes

FORMAT This book is designed to be readable and useful. The format emphasizes and highlights key points in bold type, italics, and numbered sequences, so basic information can be located and reviewed at a glance. REALISTIC PROCEDURES Although supported by discussions of cooking theory, procedures given here are based on actual practices in the industry. Attention is given not just to quantity production but also to the special problems of cooking to order. Presentation and service of the finished product are considered in detail, as is pre-preparation, or mise en place—so essential to the organization of a working restaurant. At the same time, the major emphasis is on quality, too often neglected in the quest for convenience. Even a book as large as this one cannot possibly contain all a cook needs to know. Other information is included if it has a direct bearing on kitchen and bakeshop work. More specialized information, such as stewarding and managerial skills, is necessarily omitted. Finally, although much of what we talk about is strongly influenced by the cooking of other nations, the practices discussed are primarily those of North American food service. Media and Supplements CULINARE-COMPANION™ RECIPE MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE Recipes are the ultimate test of any culinary student’s skills. Reinforcing these skills is the main goal of this upgraded version of Wiley CulinarE-Companion™. This easy-to-use software is no longer simply a recipe management resource with a complete database of recipes from Professional Cooking. In addition to the more than 1,200 recipes from the book, including more than 90 bonus recipes not included in this Seventh Edition, the software includes a range of useful features to make the recipes easy to adapt, learn from, and manipulate to suit individual needs. These additional features will not only help in your culinary education but also in managing and organizing your own recipes and related assets, such as photos and videos. The registration code included with each copy of Professional Cooking, Seventh Edition, allows you to download and install this valuable software at no additional cost—and it’s yours to keep! New Feature Highlights • Enhanced Recipe Management Tools: In addition to being able to edit, scale, view nutritional information, convert from U.S. to metric measures and vice versa, and print and share recipes, users can add their own recipes: 1. Directly into the database so you can use features such as scaling and metric conversion, create shopping lists, and get the nutritional analysis. 2. Attach your existing recipe files (including Word, Excel, and .pdf) so they are easy to find and classify. • Skills: Newly created and efficiently organized, this section contains relevant information organized around key skills for ease of use in reviewing important techniques. This Seventh Edition retains the book’s basic structure and organization, which created the flexibility that has made Professional Cooking adaptable to nearly any course of study. The basic cooking methods (dry-heat methods, moist-heat methods, and so on) are introduced early on. Then, within each of the main cooking chapters, the material is arranged by cooking method. Thus, for curricula organized by cooking method, it is a simple matter to select the appropriate sections—for example, moist-heat methods—from the meat, poultry, fish, and vegetable chapters. At the same time, the arrangement of the chapters by product type enables the instructor to emphasize how the basic cooking methods differ as they are applied to different products. This new edition of Professional Cooking focuses, as did the earlier editions, on the development of flexible skills, which are essential for success in a cooking career. Modern food service is evolving rapidly. A tremendous variety of establishments is on the scene today, from executive dining rooms to school cafeterias, from simple short-order coffee shops to the most exclusive restaurants or clubs, from kitchens that make extensive use of convenience foods to those that use only fresh produce. The graduate who understands the workings of foods and the interplay of ingredients, cooking methods, cost factors, and other elements can function successfully in any type of food-service operation. The Role of the Chef-Instructor No textbook, of course, can substitute for practical kitchen experience. Furthermore, a book cannot replace an experienced chef-instructor who gives practical demonstrations, supervises students’ work, answers questions, and gives advice and assistance as needed. Every instructor has unique experience and has developed special techniques and procedures. Many chefs, in fact, disagree on a number of points. Although this book presents methods and recipes that are widely used and accepted, many instructors will prefer procedures that differ from some explained in this text and may wish to supplement the recipes with their own. Throughout the book, the instructor’s input is encouraged. Exposure to a variety of recipes and techniques can only enrich the students’ education and deepen their experience. Features PRONUNCIATION GUIDES AND GLOSSARIES Much kitchen terminology is taken from French. Phonetic guides are included for difficult words, giving the approximate pronunciation using English sounds. (Exact rendering is impossible in many cases because French and other foreign languages have sounds that don’t exist in English.) Because food-service workers must be able to communicate with each other, definitions of terms introduced in the text are summarized in the glossary at the end of the book. ILLUSTRATIONS Hundreds of clear, concise, full-color photographs illustrate basic manual techniques shown from the point of view of the person performing them. Additional photographs illustrate ingredients and finished dishes. Numerous line drawings also enhance the text, illustrating hundreds of pieces of equipment you’ll encounter in the professional kitchen. xxiv PREFACE

WileyPLUS can complement your current textbook or replace the printed text altogether. FOR STUDENTS Different learning styles, different levels of proficiency, different levels of preparation—each student is unique. WileyPLUS empowers each of them to take advantage of individual strengths: • Students receive timely access to resources that address their demonstrated needs, and they get immediate feedback and remediation when needed. • Integrated multimedia resources—including audio pronunciations, visual exhibits, and much more—provide multiple studypaths to fit each student’s learning preferences and encourage more active learning. • Students can take advantage of many opportunities for instant feedback and context-sensitive help. They can take control of their own learning and practice until they master the material. FOR INSTRUCTORS WileyPLUS empowers you with tools and resources that will make your teaching even more effective: • You can customize your classroom presentation with a wealth of resources and functionality, from PowerPoint slides to a database of rich visuals. You can even add your own materials to your WileyPLUS course. • You can identify students who are falling behind and intervene accordingly, without waiting for them to come to office hours. • You can take advantage of the program’s simplification and automation of such tasks as making assignments, scoring student work, keeping grades, and more. Additional Student and Instructor Resources To enhance mastery of the material in Professional Cooking, the following student and instructor supplements are also available: The Student Study Guide (978-0-470-19751-6) contains review materials, practice problems, and exercises. (Answers to questions are included in the Instructor’s Manual.) The Instructor’s Manual with Study Guide Solutions (978-0-470- 25394-6) includes teaching suggestions and test bank questions. The Test Bank has been specifically formatted for Respondus, an easy-to-use software program for creating and managing exams that can be printed to paper or published directly to Blackboard, WebCT, Desire2Learn, eCollege, ANGEL, and other eLearning systems. Instructors who adopt Professional Cooking can download the test bank for free. Additional Wiley resources also can be uploaded into your LMS course at no charge. To view and access these resources and the test bank, visit www.wiley.com/college/gisslen, click on the Instructor Companion website link, and then click on LMS Course Student Resources or contact your Wiley representative for more information. PowerPoint slides are also available electronically to provide additional support in delivering course material. Also new and included here are: • Videos: To support students in building and enhancing their core skills and techniques, CulinarE-Companion now features approximately 25 targeted instructional technique videos and step-by-step procedures for essential culinary skills that are key to success in the kitchen. • Audio Pronunciations: In addition to its extensive glossary of key terms and cooking vocabulary, CulinarE-Companion now has over 1,000 vocabulary terms and recipe names with audio pronunciations to make learning to pronounce these terms a snap. • Tools: Users can easily access the most important charts and conversion formulas at your fingertips, including can sizes and key conversion formulas. • My Files: CulinarE-Companion allows you to easily organzie your recipes, images of your plated dishes, and your videos in one location. You can classify them so they are easy to find for future reference. And you can easily replace and update files as your skills progress. Proven Features • Add, edit, modify, and print recipes, portion sizes, and yields, and create shopping lists. • Search recipes by main ingredient, primary cooking method, and cuisine type. • Resize recipes in U.S. or metric measures. • Perform metric conversions instantly. • Calculate nutritional analyses of recipes in FDA format, and update nutritional analysis if an ingredient is changed. Technique Videos New technique videos are available with Professional Cooking, Seventh Edition. These clearly demonstrate the essential skills students must master to succeed in the kitchen and engagingly enhance the textbook’s approach to teaching these basic skills. Selected videos are included as part of the CulinarE-Companion recipe management software. The full set of video clips is available as part of your WileyPLUS course. More than 100 clips demonstrate and teach fundamental culinary techniques. They can be used for study and review purposes or as a step-by-step demonstration of these techniques. WileyPLUS This online teaching and learning environment integrates the entire digital textbook with the most effective instructor and student resources to fit every learning style. With WileyPLUS: • Students achieve concept mastery in a rich, structured environment that’s available 24/7. • Instructors personalize and manage their course more effectively with assessment, assignments, grade tracking, and more. PREFACE xxv

George Akau Clark College Vancouver, WA Erik Anderson Camosun College Victoria, British Columbia Angela M. Anderson Miami Dade Community College Miami, FL Robert Anderson Des Moines Area Community College Ankeny, IA Tim Appleton Red River College Winnipeg, Manitoba Alan Argulski Genesee Community College Batavia, NY Valerie Arthurs Cambrian College of Applied Arts and Technology Sudbury, Ontario Allen Asch University of Nevada–Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Kirk Bachmann Le Cordon Bleu Schools North America Hoffman Estates, IL Moses Ball Atlantic Vocational-Technical Center Coconut Creek, FL Carl A. Behnke Purdue University West Lafayette, IN Joseph L. Belvedere Jr. Paul Smith’s College Paul Smiths, NY Perry Bentley Okanagan University College Kelowna, British Columbia Claire A. Berg Brookdale Community College Howell, NJ Nancy Berkoff Los Angeles Trade Technical College Los Angeles, CA Leslie Bilderback California School of Culinary Arts South Pasadena, CA George Bissonette Pikes Peak Community College Colorado Springs, CO Peter Blakeman George Brown College Toronto, Ontario LeRoy Blanchard Los Angeles Trade Technical College Los Angeles, CA Roy Blundell College Lasalle Montréal, Québec Pete Bordi Penn State University University Park, PA Kenneth P. Bourgoin Valencia Community College Orlando, FL Jeff Bunting Ivy Tech Community College Fort Wayne, IN Roy Butterworth New Brunswick Community College Moncton, New Brunswick Alfredo Cabaccingan Kapiolani Community College Honolulu, HI Joanne Canada-Somers Assiniboine Community College Brandon, Manitoba Harska Chacko University of New Orleans New Orleans, LA Frederick, Carole Anson, and Harry Nolan. Thanks to Mauna Eichner and Lee Fukui who have designed and laid out the pages with care and to Madeline Perri who copyedited and coded the manuscript. Thanks to the John Wiley people in Indianapolis who have prepared the files for printing: Kristie Rees, project coordinator; Clint Lahnen, graphics supervisor; Brent Savage, color photos and imaging; Beth Brooks, senior page layout technician; and Cheryl Grubbs, illustrator. Special thanks are due to Julie Kerr, who has worked with me for so long and with such dedication, and to my editor and friend, Mary Cassells. Reviewers I would like to acknowledge the following instructors who have contributed to this book over seven editions by suggesting revisions and additions and by answering survey questions. Acknowledgments Photographer Jim Smith has been my partner in these texts for nearly 30 years. His hundreds of photographs are an indispensable part of Professional Cooking and valuable teaching tools. I can never thank him enough. Thanks also to Jeremy Grubard, Michael Vasiliauskas, and Vincent Cento for their work in Jim’s studio. During a long and productive session of planning, photography, and recipe testing for this edition, I was fortunate to have the expert assistance of Chef-Instructors Rick Forpahl, David Eisenreich, and Lynn Wolkerstorfer-Isakson of Hennepin Technical College. These chefs have been valuable collaborators on several editions of my books, and their suggestions and critiques have been significant in shaping each revision project. They have put in many long hours. In addition, their students, Zachary Colburn, Daniel Greer, Joe Howe, Michael Schroers, and Anthony E. Snooks, worked hard to help us complete the photography on schedule. Rick Elsenpeter of Lund’s market was untiring in his responses to innumerable special requests for meats and seafood. My wife, Meg, assisted our kitchen crew and helped with my research for many of the text revisions. I am grateful to one and all for their help. They were a pleasure to work with. In addition, I would like to thank Hennepin Technical College for the use of their kitchens. Finally, much thanks to John Novi, chef and owner of Dupuy Canal House Restaurant in High Falls, New York, and his kitchen staff for their time and assistance during the photo shoot for the Seventh Edition cover. Christin Loudon, who calculated nutritional analyses in the fourth, fifth, and sixth editions, has again contributed her expertise and culinary understanding to provide analyses for the new recipes in this edition, for which I thank her most warmly. I would also like to thank Drew Appleby, whose expertly written test questions form an important part of the support materials for this text. The list of culinary and hospitality professionals who have provided support, guidance, advice, and constructive criticism for all seven editions of this book has grown so long that it isn’t possible to mention everyone in these paragraphs. I can only hope I have not omitted many of them in the list of reviewers that follows. I would also like to thank all those unnamed individuals who have corresponded with me over the years to point out errors and to offer suggestions. The updated and enhanced CulinarE-Companion™ and WileyPLUS, our new online teaching and learning environment, are presented with this new Seventh Edition because of a coordinated team effort. Thank you to Lydia Cheng and Thomas Kulesa for their consultation every step of the way in reviewing, conceptualizing, and coordinating the development of the new recipe management software. Thank you to project editor Michele Traeger for coordinating all of the editorial efforts for both projects. I am also grateful to the many beta testers who took time to test CulinarE-Companion and WileyPLUS. Their testing and feedback were instrumental in the development and completion of these exciting new technologies. Thanks also to Chef Jean Vendeville of Savannah Technical College for his review and input for the audio pronunciations that is included in both CulinarECompanion and WileyPLUS. Thank you to Chef William J. Easter of the Iowa Culinary Institute/Des Moines Area Community College for creating the PowerPoints for the Seventh Edition. Finally, I would like to thank everyone at John Wiley & Sons who worked so hard on this project: James Metzger, Jenni Lee, Jeff Rucker, Margaret Barrett, Susan Matulewicz, Barbara Russiello, Micheline xxvi PREFACE

Margaret A. Howard Sheridan Vocational-Technical Center Hollywood, FL Russ Hudson North Island College Courtenay, British Columbia Lynn Huffman Texas Tech University Lubbock, TX Anne L. Jachim Moraine Valley Community College Palos Hills, IL Daniel K. Jeatran Milwaukee Area Technical College Milwaukee, WI Frank F. Johnson Jr. University of South Florida Tampa, FL Roosevelt Johnson Sidney North Colver VocationalTechnical Institute New Orleans, LA Todd Jones Mattatuck Community College Waterbury, CT Mike Jung Hennepin Technical Center Brooklyn Park, MN Sandy Kapoor Cal Poly Pomona Pomona, CA Tom King Cabrillo College Aptos, CA Darren Kreps CSC Frontenac Institution Kingston, Ontario Heinz Lauer Le Cordon Bleu Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Sunshine Layton Winnipeg Technical College Winnipeg, Manitoba Suzanne Little, M.S., R.D. San Jacinto College Pasadena, TX Shirley Lotze Western Wisconsin Technical Institute LaCrosse, WI Robert M. Lyna Southern Maine VocationalTechnical Institute South Portland, ME George Macht College of DuPage Glen Ellyn, IL Merle Maerz Selkirk College Nelson, British Columbia Sylvia Marple University of New Hampshire Durham, NH Jeff Gill Red River College Winnipeg, Manitoba Gilles Godin Nova Scotia Community College Stellarton, Nova Scotia James Goering El Centro College Dallas, TX Meyer Goldhar Liaison College Toronto, Ontario Ian Grady George Brown College Toronto, Ontario Jeff Graves Purdue University West Lafayette, IN Michael Graves Atlantic Culinary Dover, NH Nancy Graves University of Houston Houston, TX Ava R. P. Gritzuk Central Piedmont Community College Charlotte, NC Juliet Groux West Liberty State College West Liberty, WV James Hallett Wake Technical Community College Raleigh, NC Gregory Hare Baltimore International College Baltimore, MD Robert Harrington Nichols State University Thibodaux, LA Robert S. Haynes Lambton College Sarnia, Ontario John D. Hedley Los Angeles Trade-Technical College Los Angeles, CA Rosemary L. Hedlund Des Moines Area Community College Ankeny, IA Iris Helveston State of Florida Department of Education Tampa, FL Maynard G. Hemmah Moorhead Area VocationalTechnical Institute Moorhead, MN Jean Hertzman University of Nevada–Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Andrew Hewson Southern Alberta Institute of Technology Calgary, Alberta Bob Dowden Nova Scotia Community College Kentville, Nova Scotia James Drake Onondaga Community College Syracuse, NY Dominique and Cindy Duby DC Duby School Richmond, British Columbia Dale Dunham Oklahoma State University Okmulgee, OK Michael Durrer Algonquin College Nepean, Ontario Michael A. Elliott Liaison College Toronto, Ontario Evan Enowitz Grossmont College El Cajon, CA Daniel Esposito Canadore College North Bay, Ontario Guy Ethier Canadian Federation of Chefs and Cooks Surrey, British Columbia Brenda Excell Liaison College Toronto, Ontario Mark Facklam The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago Chicago, IL Fred T. Faria Johnson and Wales University Providence, RI Alan Fleming Algonquin College Ottawa, Ontario Robyn L. Flipse Brooksdale Community College Lincroft, NJ Sandra Flowerday Educational Consultant Charlotte, MI Sandra Foley Gogebic Community College Ironwood, MI Keith E. Gardiner Guilford Technical Community College Jamestown, NC Willard L. Geach Long Beach City College Long Beach, CA Joan W. Geerken State University of New York at Cobleskill Cobleskill, NY Dave Gibson Niagara College Niagara Falls, Ontario Daniel Charna Ashland College Ashland, OH Richard Chiasson New Brunswick Community College Moncton, New Brunswick Albert D. Cipryk Niagara College Niagara Falls, Ontario Jesse Clemons State Technical Institute at Memphis Memphis, TN Alec O. Cline American Culinary Federation, Inc. Redwood City, CA Michael M. Collins San Jacinto College Pasadena, TX Randall Colman Sullivan County Community College Loch Sheldrake, NY Paulette Cormier-MacBurnie Mount Saint Vincent University Halifax, Nova Scotia Steven Cornelius Sinclair Community College Dayton, OH Mike Costello St. Cloud Area Vocational-Technical Institute St. Cloud, MN Tim Curnow College of the Rockies Cranbrook, British Columbia Chris Cutler Georgian College Barrie, Ontario Gerardo Jesi D’Amore St. Pius X Culinary Institute Montréal, Québec William J. Daly State University of New York at Cobleskill Cobleskill, NY Juanita M. Decker Waukesha County Technical Institute Pewaukee, WI Bob Demers Niagara College Niagara Falls, Ontario Larry DeVries Brandon School District Brandon, Manitoba Frank Diamond Academy Canada St. John’s, Newfoundland Marian Dobbins Tucson, AZ Brendan Dolan Atlantic Culinary Academy Dover, NH PREFACE xxvii

xxviii PREFACE Scott Warrick Algonquin College Ottawa, Ontario R.G. Werth Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College Asheville, NC Eberhard Werthman St. Paul Technical College St. Paul, MN J. William White Pinellas County School System St. Petersburg, FL Doris Wilkes Florida Hospitality Education Program The Florida State University Tallahassee, FL Shelly Wilkinson-Adair Fleming College Peterborough, Ontario Wes J. Wilkinson Lambton College Sarnia, Ontario Ronald S. Wolf Florida Community College Jacksonville, FL Ron Wong Northern Alberta Institute of Technology Edmonton, Alberta Tony Wood Hospitality Industry Education Advisory Committee Surrey, British Columbia Ronald Zabkiewicz South Technical Education Center Boynton Beach, FL Mike Zema Elgin Community College Elgin, IL Ronald Zwerger Elgin Community College Elgin, IL Chris D. Shields The State University of New York– Delhi Delhi, NY Settimio Sicoli Vancouver Community College Vancouver, British Columbia Diane Sinkinson Cape Fear Community College Wilmington, NC Norman C. Smith Sir Sanford Fleming College Peterborough, Ontario Reuel J. Smith Truckee Meadows Community College Reno, NV William Sprowl Mt. San Jacinto College San Jacinto, CA Ben Stanford Saskatchewan Institute of Applied Science and Technology Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Nancy S. Steryous St. Petersburg Vocational-Technical Institute St. Petersburg, FL Siegfried Stober Joliet Junior College Joliet, IL Peter Sugameli Wayne Community College Detroit, MI Julia Sullivan Copiah-Lincoln Junior College Wesson, MI William Thornton St. Phillips College San Antonio, TX Sheila A. Tillman Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College Asheville, NC S.W. (Stan) Townsend Northern Alberta Institute of Technology Edmonton, Alberta Robin W. Turner State University of New York at Delhi Delhi, NY Ken Veneruz Confederation College Thunder Bay, Ontario Jerry L. Vincent Johnson County Community College Overland Park, KS Barbara Vredeveld Iowa Western Community College Council Bluffs, IA Don Waddell Institute of Technology Clovis, CA D. Michael Wallace North Island College Courtenay, British Columbia Steven Popp Liaison College Toronto, Ontario Tony Rechsteiner Northern Lights College Dawson Creek, British Columbia John Reimers Red River College Winnipeg, Manitoba Larry Richardson Hinds Junior College–Jackson Branch Jackson, MI Neil Rittenaur North Dakota State College of Science Wahpeton, ND Hubert E. Robert Holyoke Community College Holyoke, PA Richard Roberts Wake Technical Community College Raleigh, NC Michael Rohatynsky Saskatchewan Institute of Applied Science and Technology Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Vance Roux Delgado Community College New Orleans, LA Ricardo G. Saenz Renton Vocational-Technical Institute Renton, WA Jeff Santicola Le Cordon Bleu Schools North America Hoffman Estates, IL Robert R. Santos Maui Community College Kahului, HI Philippe Saraiva Conestoga College Kitchener, Ontario Frank Schellings Diablo Valley College Pleasant Hill, CA David Schneider Macomb Community College Mt. Clemens, MI Charlotte Schwyn Delta College Stockton, CA Elaine Seniuk Mount Saint Vincent University Halifax, Nova Scotia Marshall J. Shafkowitz The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago Chicago, IL Roy John Sharp Portland Community College Portland, OR Valeria S. Mason State Department of Education Gainesville, FL John McDonald St. Augustine Technical Center St. Augustine, FL Terence F. McDonough Erie Community College Buffalo, NY Marcia W. McDowell Monroe Community College Rochester, NY Linda McDuffie North Seattle Community College Seattle, WA Robert McLean The Fay School Southboro, MA Ann Miglio Williamsport Area Community College Williamsport, PA Harold O. Mishoe Southern Maine VocationalTechnical Institute South Portland, ME Ken W. Myers University of Minnesota–Crookston Crookston, MN Kathy Niemann Portland State University Portland, OR William T. Norvell William Rainey Harper College Palatine, IL Therese O’Connor Cornell University Ithaca, NY Andrew Ormiston Brandon, Manitoba Gary Page Grand Valley State College Allendale, MI Michael Palmer Western Culinary Institute Portland, OR Philip Panzarino New York City Technical College Brooklyn, NY Jayne Pearson Manchester Community College Manchester, CT Richard Petrello Withlacoochee Vocational-Technical Center Inverness, FL William F. Petsch Pinellas Vocational Technical Institute Clearwater, FL Michael PiccZinino Shasta College Redding, CA

Supporting chefs throughout their careers, CulinarE-Companion includes all recipes from Professional Cooking, Seventh Edition plus 90 bonus recipes, audio pronunciations, illustrated procedures, and technique videos. Create shopping lists, resize recipes, perform metric conversions, and analyze nutritional content of ingredients and recipes. Add your own recipes, photos, and videos, and create your own cookbooks. The software downloads and installs effortlessly on your computer’s hard drive. It runs locally from your hard drive—so no need for an Internet connection. Once installed, CulinarE-Companion is yours to keep and never expires! At no additional cost, use the registration code and instructions included with your new copy of Professional Cooking, Seventh Edition, to install yours today. The Homepage j View recipes—click on “Professional Cooking” under “Cookbooks.” j With improved search functionality, search recipes by recipe name or even part of a name, and search by variation. j View recipes, procedures, and technique videos—organized by kitchen skill: click on “Skills” tab. j Click “Glossary” tab to access definitions from Professional Cooking’s glossary plus hundreds of additional defined terms and audio pronunciations. Recipe List Refine your search by course, cuisine, main ingredient, primary cooking k method, or dietary considerations. Add recipes to your shopping list, as well as export and print recipes. k Recipe Screen j Resize recipes, perform metric conversions, show recipe notes, variations, and more! j Referenced procedures and recipes are easily accessible by simply clicking the relevant item. j View photos of plated dishes: click the “Images” tab; view related technique videos: click the “Videos” tab; or add your own photos and videos. Nutritional Information View important nutritional information for ingredients and recipes. k Nutritional information calculates automatically for all recipes, even k new recipes you add, by clicking “Create New Recipe.” Wiley CulinarE-Companion™ Recipe Management Software

OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 1 © Dan Lipow.

ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIET his is an exciting time to begin a career in food service. Interest in dining and curiosity about new foods are greater than ever. More new restaurants open every year. Many restaurants are busy every night, and restaurant chains number among the nation’s largest corporations. The chef, once considered a domestic servant, is now respected as an artist and skilled craftsperson. The growth of the food-service industry creates a demand for thousands of skilled people every year. Many people are attracted by a career that is challenging and exciting and, above all, provides the chance to find real satisfaction in doing a job well. Unfortunately, many people see only the glamorous side of food service and fail to understand that this is a tiny part of the picture. The public does not often see the years of training, the long hours, and the tremendous pressures that lie behind every success. Before you start your practical studies, covered in later chapters, it is good to know a little about the profession you are entering. This chapter gives you a brief overview of modern food service, including how it got to where it is today and where it is headed. The Food-Service Industry 1 After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Name and describe four major developments that significantly changed the food-service industry in the twentieth century. 2. Identify seven major stations in a classical kitchen. 3. Explain how the size and type of an operation influence the organization of the modern kitchen. 4. Identify and describe three skill levels of food production personnel. 5. Identify eight behavioral characteristics food-service workers should develop and maintain to achieve the highest standards of professionalism.

A History of Modern Food Service The value of history is that it helps us understand the present and the future. In food service, knowledge of our professional heritage helps us see why we do things as we do, how our cooking techniques have been developed and refined, and how we can continue to develop and innovate in the years ahead. An important lesson of history is that the way we cook now is the result of the work done by countless chefs over hundreds of years. Cooking is as much science as it is art. Cooking techniques are not based on arbitrary rules some chefs made up long ago. Rather, they are based on an understanding of how different foods react when heated in various ways, when combined in various proportions, and so on. The chefs who have come before us have already done much of this work so we don’t have to. This doesn’t mean there is no room for innovation and experimentation or that we should never challenge old ideas. But it does mean a lot of knowledge has been collected over the years, and we would be smart to take advantage of what has already been learned. Furthermore, how can we challenge old ideas unless we know what those old ideas are? Knowledge is the best starting point for innovation. The Origins of Classical and Modern Cuisine Quantity cookery has existed for thousands of years, as long as there have been large groups of people to feed, such as armies. But modern food service is said to have begun shortly after the middle of the eighteenth century. At this time, food production in France was controlled by guilds. Caterers, pastry makers, roasters, and pork butchers held licenses to prepare specific items. An innkeeper, in order to serve a meal to guests, had to buy the various menu items from those operations licensed to provide them. Guests had little or no choice and simply ate what was available for that meal. In 1765, a Parisian named Boulanger began advertising on his shop sign that he served soups, which he called restaurants or restoratives. (Literally, the word means “fortifying.”) According to the story, one of the dishes he served was sheep’s feet in a cream sauce. The guild of stew makers challenged him in court, but Boulanger won by claiming he didn’t stew the feet in the sauce but served them with the sauce. In challenging the rules of the guilds, Boulanger unwittingly changed the course of food-service history. The new developments in food service received a great stimulus as a result of the French Revolution, beginning in 1789. Before this time, the great chefs were employed in the houses of the French nobility. With the revolution and the end of the monarchy, many chefs, suddenly out of work, opened restaurants in and around Paris to support themselves. Furthermore, the revolutionary government abolished the guilds. Restaurants and inns could serve dinners reflecting the talent and creativity of their own chefs rather than being forced to rely on licensed caterers to supply their food. At the start of the French Revolution, there were about 50 restaurants in Paris. Ten years later, there were about 500. Another important invention that changed the organization of kitchens in the eighteenth century was the stove, or potager, which gave cooks a more practical and controllable heat source than an open fire. Soon commercial kitchens became divided into three departments: the rotisserie, under the control of the meat chef, or rôtisseur; the oven, under the control of the pastry chef, or pâtissier; and the stove, run by the cook, or cuisinier. The meat chef and pastry chef reported to the cuisinier, who was also known as chef de cuisine, which means “head of the kitchen.” Carême All the changes that took place in the world of cooking during the 1700s led to, for the first time, a difference between home cooking and professional cooking. One way we can try to understand this difference is to look at the work of the greatest chef of the period following 2 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY

the French Revolution, Marie-Antoine Carême (1784–1833). As a young man, Carême learned all the branches of cooking quickly, and he dedicated his career to refining and organizing culinary techniques. His many books contain the first systematic account of cooking principles, recipes, and menu making. At a time when the interesting advances in cooking were happening in restaurants, Carême worked as a chef to wealthy patrons, kings, and heads of state. He was perhaps the first real celebrity chef, and he became famous as the creator of elaborate, elegant display pieces and pastries, the ancestors of our modern wedding cakes, sugar sculptures, and ice and tallow carvings. But it was Carême’s practical and theoretical work as an author and an inventor of recipes that was responsible, to a large extent, for bringing cooking out of the Middle Ages and into the modern period. Carême emphasized procedure and order. His goal was to create more lightness and simplicity. The complex cuisine of the aristocracy—called Grande Cuisine—was still not much different from that of the Middle Ages and was anything but simple and light. Carême’s efforts were a great step toward modern simplicity. The methods explained in his books were complex, but his aim was pure results. He added seasonings and other ingredients not so much to add new flavors but to highlight the flavors of the main ingredients. His sauces were designed to enhance, not cover up, the food being sauced. Carême was a thoughtful chef, and, whenever he changed a classic recipe, he was careful to explain his reasons for doing so. Beginning with Carême, a style of cooking developed that can truly be called international, because the same principles are still used by professional cooks around the world. Older styles of cooking, as well as much of today’s home cooking, are based on tradition. In other words, a cook makes a dish a certain way because that is how it always has been done. On the other hand, in Carême’s Grande Cuisine, and in professional cooking ever since, a cook makes a dish a certain way because the principles and methods of cooking show it is the best way to get the desired results. For example, for hundreds of years, cooks boiled meats before roasting them on a rotisserie in front of the fire. But when chefs began thinking and experimenting rather than just accepting the tradition of boiling meat before roasting, they realized either braising the meat or roasting it from the raw state were better options. Escoffier Georges-Auguste Escoffier (1847–1935), the greatest chef of his time, is still revered by chefs and gourmets as the father of twentieth-century cookery. His two main contributions were (1) the simplification of classical cuisine and the classical menu, and (2) the reorganization of the kitchen. Escoffier rejected what he called the “general confusion” of the old menus, in which sheer quantity seemed to be the most important factor. Instead, he called for order and diversity and emphasized the careful selection of one or two dishes per course, dishes that followed one another harmoniously and delighted the taste with their delicacy and simplicity. Escoffier’s books and recipes are still important reference works for professional chefs. The basic cooking methods and preparations we study today are based on Escoffier’s work. His book Le Guide Culinaire, which is still widely used, arranges recipes in a simple system based on main ingredient and cooking method, greatly simplifying the more complex system handed down from Carême. Learning classical cooking, according to Escoffier, begins with learning a relatively few basic procedures and understanding basic ingredients. Escoffier’s second major achievement, the reorganization of the kitchen, resulted in a streamlined workplace better suited to turning out the simplified dishes and menus he instituted. The system of organization he established is still in use, especially in large hotels and full-service restaurants, as we discuss later in this chapter. Modern Technology Today’s kitchens look much different from those of Escoffier’s day, even though our basic cooking principles are the same. Also, the dishes we eat have gradually changed due to the innovations and creativity of modern chefs. The process of simplification and refinement, to which Carême and Escoffier made monumental contributions, is ongoing, adapting classical cooking to modern conditions and tastes. A HISTORY OF MODERN FOOD SERVICE 3 Marie-Antoine Carême L’Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-Neuvième Siècle. Paris: L’auteur, 1833–1844. Courtesy of the Rare Manuscript Collections, Cornell University Library. Georges-Auguste Escoffier Courtesy of Adjointe à la Conservation du Musée Escoffier de l’Art Culinaire. Image restricted for electronic distribution

Before we discuss the changes in cooking styles that took place in the twentieth century, let’s look at some of the developments in technology that affected cooking. DEVELOPMENT OF NEW EQUIPMENT We take for granted such basic equipment as gas and electric ranges and ovens and electric refrigerators. But even these essential tools did not exist until fairly recently. The easily controlled heat of modern cooking equipment, as well as motorized food cutters, mixers, and other processing equipment, has greatly simplified food production. Research and technology continue to produce sophisticated tools for the kitchen. Some of these products, such as tilting skillets and steam-jacketed kettles, can do many jobs and are popular in many kitchens. Others can perform specialized tasks rapidly and efficiently, but their usefulness depends on volume because they are designed to do only a few jobs. Modern equipment has enabled many food-service operations to change their production methods. With sophisticated cooling, freezing, and heating equipment, it is possible to prepare some foods further in advance and in larger quantities. Some large multiunit operations prepare food for all their units in a central commissary. The food is prepared in quantity, packaged, chilled or frozen, and then heated or cooked to order in the individual units. DEVELOPMENT AND AVAILABILITY OF NEW FOOD PRODUCTS Modern refrigeration and rapid transportation caused revolutionary changes in eating habits. For the first time, fresh foods of all kinds—meats, fish, vegetables, and fruits—became available throughout the year. Exotic delicacies can now be shipped from anywhere in the world and arrive fresh and in peak condition. The development of preservation techniques—not just refrigeration but also freezing, canning, freeze-drying, vacuum-packing, and irradiation—increased the availability of most foods and made affordable some that were once rare and expensive. Techniques of food preservation have had another effect. It is now possible to do some or most of the preparation and processing of foods before shipping rather than in the foodservice operation itself. Thus, convenience foods have come into being. Convenience foods continue to account for an increasing share of the total food market. Some developments in food science and agriculture are controversial. Irradiation, mentioned above, caused much controversy when it was introduced because it exposes foods to radioactivity to rid them of organisms that cause spoilage and disease. Scientists say, however, that no traces of radioactivity remain in the foods, and the procedure is now used more widely. A more controversial technique is genetic engineering, which involves artificially changing the gene structure of a food to give it some desirable trait, such as resistance to disease, drought, or insect damage. FOOD SAFETY AND NUTRITIONAL AWARENESS The development of the sciences of microbiology and nutrition had a great impact on food service. One hundred years ago, there was little understanding of the causes of food poisoning and food spoilage. Food-handling practices have come a long way since Escoffier’s day. Also, little knowledge of nutritional principles was available until fairly recently. Today, nutrition is an important part of a cook’s training. Customers are also more knowledgeable and therefore more likely to demand healthful, well-balanced menus. Unfortunately, nutrition science is constantly shifting. Diets considered healthful one year become eating patterns to be avoided a few years later. Fad diets come and go, and chefs often struggle to keep their menus current. It is more important than ever for cooks to keep up to date with the latest nutritional understanding. Complicating the work of food-service professionals is a growing awareness of food allergies and intolerances. Not only are chefs called upon to provide nutritious, low-fat, low-calorie meals, they must also adapt to the needs of customers who must eliminate certain foods from their diets, such as gluten, soy, dairy, or eggs. 4 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY TWO IMPORTANT COOKBOOKS In the Middle Ages, cooking consisted mostly of roasting meats on spits in front of a fire and suspending pots from hooks over the fire. Ovens, which were used in ancient Rome, had disappeared, so there was no baking. Roasted meats and poultry were usually boiled before being placed on the spit, and most foods were heavily spiced. It wasn’t until the thirteenth century that ovens were used again and that stews and sauces started to appear on the dining table. Perhaps the first important cookbook to appear at the end of the Middle Ages was Le Viandier (“The Cook”), by Guillaume Tirel, usually known as Taillevent, born about 1310. Taillevent invented many dishes, especially sauces and soups. He refined old recipes to depend less on heavy use of spices and more on the flavors of the foods themselves. He wrote his book before the invention of the printing press, and handwritten copies of it remained in use for more than a century, until 1490, when it became perhaps the first cookbook ever printed. By the seventeenth century, cooking practices still had not advanced much beyond Taillevent’s day. Perhaps the next most important cookbook after Taillevent’s was Le Cuisinier François (“The French Chef”), by FrançoisPierre de La Varenne (1615–1678). This book, published in 1651, was a summary of the cooking practices in households of the aristocracy. It was one of the first books to present recipes and cooking techniques in an orderly fashion rather than as an unsystematic collection. Le Cuisinier François was one of the main reference works for cooks for more than 150 years. These two chefs are memorialized in the names of two important culinary institutions. Taillevent is the name of a Paris restaurant that has long been one of the finest in France, and La Varenne is the name of a distinguished cooking school.

Cooking in the Twentieth and Twenty-first Centuries All these developments have helped change cooking styles, menus, and eating habits. The evolution of cuisine that has been going on for hundreds of years continues. Changes occur not only because of technological developments, such as those just described, but also because of our reactions to culinary traditions. Two opposing forces can be seen at work throughout the history of cooking. One is the urge to simplify, to eliminate complexity and ornamentation, and instead to emphasize the plain, natural tastes of basic, fresh ingredients. The other is the urge to invent, to highlight the creativity of the chef, with an accent on fancier, more complicated presentations and procedures. Both these forces are valid and healthy; they continually refresh and renew the art of cooking. A generation after Escoffier, the most influential chef in the middle of the twentieth century was Fernand Point (1897–1955). Working quietly and steadily in his restaurant, La Pyramide, in Vienne, France, Point simplified and lightened classical cuisine. He was a perfectionist who sometimes worked on a dish for years before he felt it was good enough to put on his menu. “I am not hard to please,” he said. “I’m satisfied with the very best.” Point insisted every meal should be “a little marvel.” Point’s influence extended well beyond his own life. Many of his apprentices, including Paul Bocuse, Jean and Pierre Troisgros, and Alain Chapel, later became some of the greatest stars of modern cooking. They, along with other chefs in their generation, became best known in the 1960s and early 1970s for a style of cooking called nouvelle cuisine. Reacting to what they saw as a heavy, stodgy, overly complicated classical cuisine, these chefs took Point’s lighter approach even further. They rejected many traditional principles, such as the use of flour to thicken sauces, and instead urged simpler, more natural flavors and preparations, with lighter sauces and seasonings and shorter cooking times. In traditional classical cuisine, many dishes were plated in the dining room by waiters. Nouvelle cuisine, however, placed a great deal of emphasis on artful plating presentations done by the chef in the kitchen. Very quickly, however, this “simpler” style became extravagant and complicated, famous for strange combinations of foods and fussy, ornate arrangements and designs. By the 1980s, nouvelle cuisine was the subject of jokes. Still, the best achievements of nouvelle cuisine have taken a permanent place in the classical tradition. Meanwhile, many of its excesses have been forgotten. It is probably fair to say that most of the best new ideas and the longest-lasting accomplishments are those of classically trained chefs with a solid grounding in the basics. NEW EMPHASIS ON INGREDIENTS Advances in agriculture and food preservation have had disadvantages as well as advantages. Everyone is familiar with hard, tasteless fruits and vegetables developed to ship well and last long, without regard for eating quality. Many people, including chefs, began to question not only the flavor but also the health value and the environmental effects of genetically engineered foods, of produce raised with chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and of animals raised with antibiotics and other drugs and hormones. A prominent organization dedicated to improving food quality is Slow Food, begun in Italy in 1986 in reaction to the spread of fast-food restaurants. Slow Food has since become a global movement, with chapters in cities around the world. It emphasizes fostering locally grown food, using organic and sustainable farming practices, preserving heirloom varieties of plants and animals, and educating consumers about the food they eat. A landmark event in the history of modern North American cooking was the opening of Alice Waters’s restaurant, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California, in 1971. Waters’s philosophy is that good food depends on good ingredients, so she set about finding dependable sources of the best-quality vegetables, fruits, and meats, and preparing them in the simplest ways. Over the next decades, many chefs and restaurateurs followed her lead, seeking out the best seasonal, locally grown, organically raised food products. A few years after Chez Panisse opened, Larry Forgione picked up the banner of local ingredients and local cuisine A HISTORY OF MODERN FOOD SERVICE 5 SLOW FOOD TODAY As with any movement, the growth of Slow Food has not been without controversy. For more than 20 years after its founding, Slow Food had little impact in North America, finding greater popularity in Europe. As recently as 2008, the organization had only 16,000 members in the United States out of more than 100,000 in all. The movement has been criticized for elitism and snobbishness, for focusing primarily on pleasure, and for being against technology and globalization. Detractors say opposition to global food trade and rejection of industrial agricultural practices are unrealistic in today’s world. In recent years, however, Slow Food has expanded its focus and has addressed issues of race, poverty, and hunger as well as its more traditional concerns—the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, and how it tastes. A surge of interest in Slow Food has come at the same time as growing concerns about the environment and climate change. Members encourage sustainable, ecologically sound agriculture and stewardship of the land as part of their efforts to educate people about their food and their eating habits.

in his New York City restaurant, An American Place. Other chefs quickly followed suit, and soon chefs across the continent made names for themselves and their restaurants at least in part by emphasizing good-quality local ingredients. Half a century ago, nearly all the most respected chefs working in the United States and Canada were European-born. Today, the movement begun by the pioneering quality-oriented chefs of the 1970s and 1980s has fostered a great number of creative North American–born chefs who are among the most respected in the world. The public has benefited greatly from these efforts. Today, in supermarkets as well as in restaurants, a much greater variety of high-quality foods is available than there was 40 or 50 years ago. Many chefs have modified their cooking styles to highlight the natural flavors and textures of their ingredients, and their menus are often simpler now for this reason. INTERNATIONAL INFLUENCES After the middle of the twentieth century, as travel became easier and as new waves of immigrants arrived in Europe and North America from around the world, awareness of and taste for regional dishes grew. Chefs became more knowledgeable not only about the traditional cuisines of other parts of Europe but about those of Asia, Latin America, and elsewhere. Many of the most creative chefs have been inspired by these cuisines and use some of their techniques and ingredients. For example, many North American and French chefs, looking for ways to make their cooking lighter and more elegant, have found ideas in the cuisine of Japan. In the southwestern United States, a number of chefs have transformed Mexican influences into an elegant and original cooking style. Throughout North America, traditional dishes and regional specialties combine the cooking traditions of immigrant settlers and the indigenous ingredients of a bountiful land. For many years, critics often argued that menus in most North American restaurants offered the same monotonous, mediocre food. In recent decades, however, American and Canadian cooks have rediscovered traditional North American dishes. The use of ingredients and techniques from more than one regional, or international, cuisine in a single dish is known as fusion cuisine. Early attempts to prepare fusion cuisine often produced poor results because the dishes were not true to any one culture and were too mixed up. This was especially true in the 1980s, when the idea of fusion cuisine was new. Cooks often combined ingredients and techniques without a good feeling for how they would work together. The result was sometimes a jumbled mess. But chefs who have taken the time to study in depth the cuisines and cultures they borrow from have brought new excitement to cooking and to restaurant menus. Today chefs make good use of all the ingredients and techniques available to them. It is almost second nature to give extra depth to the braising liquid for a beef pot roast by adding Mexican ancho chiles, for example, or to include Thai basil and lemongrass in a seafood salad. In the recipe sections of this book, classic dishes from many regions of the world are included among more familiar recipes from home. To help you understand these recipes and the cuisines they come from, background information accompanies many of them. The international recipes are identified in the Recipe Contents. NEW TECHNOLOGIES As described on page 4, new technologies, from transportation to food processing, had a profound effect on cooking in the twentieth century. Such changes continue today, with scientific developments that are only beginning to have an effect on how cooks think about food and menus. 6 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY CATERINA DE MEDICI The Medicis were a powerful Italian family that ruled Florence from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century and provided, in addition to the rulers of Florence, three popes and two queens of France. Until recently, the accepted and often-told story is that when Caterina de Medici went to France in 1533 to marry the future King Henry II, she brought with her a staff of cooks as part of her household. This introduction of Italian cooking practices into France supposedly changed and modernized the cooking not only of France but of all of Western Europe. According to this story, Caterina and her Italian cooks should be credited with fostering modern cuisine. When cookbooks and other culinary writings of the period are examined, however, it appears that French cooking didn’t begin to modernize until at least a century later. During the hundred years after Caterina’s arrival in France, no new, important cookbooks were written. There is no sign of a revolution in cooking. In fact, banquet menus that survive from the period are not much different from menus of the Middle Ages. Banquets during the Middle Ages were like huge sit-down buffets. For each course, the table was loaded with large quantities of meats, poultry, and fish dishes, usually heavily spiced, and an assortment of side dishes and sweets. Diners generally ate only what they could reach. The course was then removed and another course, also meats and side dishes, was loaded onto the table. Again, each person ate only a fraction of the dishes present, depending on what was within reach. The modern idea of a menu in which everyone at the table eats the same dishes in the same order did not appear until the 1700s. So it is not historically accurate to give the Italian princess Caterina credit for modernizing French cuisine. On the other hand, it is fair to say she and her offspring brought more refined manners and elegance to European dining rooms. Italian innovations included the use of the fork as well as greater cleanliness in general. An additional Italian contribution was the invention of sophisticated pastries and desserts.

One of these technologies is the practice of cooking sous vide (soo veed, French for “under vacuum”). Sous vide began simply as a method for packaging and storing foods in vacuumsealed plastic bags. Modern chefs, however, are exploring ways to use this technology to control cooking temperatures and times with extreme precision. As a result, familiar foods have emerged with new textures and flavors. (Sous vide cooking is discussed further in Chapter 4.) Another approach to cooking precision was pioneered by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià in his acclaimed restaurant, El Bulli. Adrià explores new possibilities in gels, foams, powders, infusions, extracts, and other unexpected ways of presenting flavors, textures, and aromas. This approach to cooking is called molecular gastronomy, a name coined by the French chemist Hervé This, who has done much of the research in the field. Molecular gastronomy has been taken up by Heston Blumenthal in England, Wylie Dufresne, Grant Achatz, and Homaro Cantu in North America, and other chefs who continue to experiment and to explore what science and technology can contribute to food and food presentation. Many of the techniques make use of unfamiliar ingredients, such as natural gums, and put familiar ingredients, such as gelatin and pectin, to unfamiliar uses. Although this approach to cooking may be best known for its unusual ingredients and techniques, its finest chefs are focused on the food, treating the techniques primarily as new tools in the chef’s repertoire. Cooking and cooking styles continue to change. Men and women are needed who can adapt to these changes and respond to new challenges. Although automation and convenience foods will no doubt grow in importance, imaginative chefs who can create new dishes and develop new techniques and styles will always be needed, as will skilled cooks who can apply both old and new techniques to produce high-quality foods in all kinds of facilities, from restaurants and hotels to schools and hospitals. The Organization of Modern Kitchens The Basis of Kitchen Organization The purpose of kitchen organization is to assign or allocate tasks so they can be done efficiently and properly and so all workers know what their responsibilities are. The way a kitchen is organized depends on several factors. 1. The menu. The kinds of dishes to be produced obviously determine the jobs that must be done. The menu is, in fact, the basis of the entire operation. Because of its importance, we devote a whole chapter to a study of the menu (Chapter 5). 2. The type of establishment. The major types of food-service establishments are as follows: • Hotels • Institutional kitchens Schools Hospitals, nursing homes, and other health care institutions Employee lunchrooms and executive dining rooms Airline catering Military food service Correctional institutions • Private clubs • Catering and banquet services • Fast-food restaurants THE ORGANIZATION OF MODERN KITCHENS 7 KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • How have the following developments changed the food-service industry: development of new equipment; availability of new food products; greater understanding of food safety and nutrition? • How have international cuisines influenced and changed cooking in North America?

• Carry-out or take-out food facilities, including supermarkets • Full-service restaurants 3. The size of the operation (the number of customers and the volume of food served). 4. The physical facilities, including the equipment in use. The Classical Brigade As you learned earlier in this chapter, one of Escoffier’s important achievements was the reorganization of the kitchen. This reorganization divided the kitchen into departments, or stations, based on the kinds of foods produced. A station chef was placed in charge of each department. In a small operation, the station chef might be the only worker in the department. But in a large kitchen, each station chef might have several assistants. This system, with many variations, is still in use, especially in large hotels with traditional kinds of food service. The major positions are as follows: 1. The chef is the person in charge of the kitchen. In large establishments, this person has the title of executive chef. The executive chef is a manager who is responsible for all aspects of food production, including menu planning, purchasing, costing, planning work schedules, hiring, and training. 2. If a food-service operation is large, with many departments (for example, a formal dining room, a casual dining room, and a catering department), or if it has several units in different locations, each kitchen may have a chef de cuisine. The chef de cuisine reports to the executive chef. 3. The sous chef (soo shef) is directly in charge of production and works as the assistant to the executive chef or chef de cuisine. (The word sous is French for “under.”) Because the executive chef’s responsibilities may require a great deal of time in the office, the sous chef takes command of the actual production and the minute-by-minute supervision of the staff. 4. The station chefs, or chefs de partie, are in charge of particular areas of production. The following are the most important station chefs. • The sauce chef, or saucier (so-see-ay), prepares sauces, stews, and hot hors d’oeuvres, and sautés foods to order. This is usually the highest position of all the stations. • The fish cook, or poissonier (pwah-so-nyay), prepares fish dishes. In some kitchens, this station is handled by the saucier. • The vegetable cook, or entremetier(awn-truh-met-yay), prepares vegetables, soups, starches, and eggs. Large kitchens may divide these duties among the vegetable cook, the fry cook, and the soup cook. • The roast cook, or rôtisseur (ro-tee-sur), prepares roasted and braised meats and their gravies and broils meats and other items to order. A large kitchen may have a separate broiler cook, or grillardin (gree-ar-dan), to handle the broiled items. The broiler cook may also prepare deep-fried meats and fish. • The pantry chef, or garde manger (gard mawn-zhay), is responsible for cold foods, including salads and dressings, pâtés, cold hors d’oeuvres, and buffet items. • The pastry chef, or pâtissier (pa-tees-syay), prepares pastries and desserts. • The relief cook, swing cook, or tournant (toor-nawn), replaces other station heads. • The expediter, or aboyeur (ah-bwa-yer), accepts orders from waiters and passes them on to the cooks on the line. The expediter also calls for orders to be finished and plated at the proper time and inspects each plate before passing it to the dining room staff. In many restaurants, this position is taken by the head chef or the sous chef. 8 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY

5. Cooks and assistants in each station or department help with the duties assigned to them. For example, the assistant vegetable cook may wash, peel, and trim vegetables. With experience, assistants may be promoted to station cooks and then to station chefs. Modern Kitchen Organization As you can see, only a large establishment needs a staff like the classical brigade just described. In fact, some large hotels have even larger staffs, with other positions such as separate day and night sous chefs, assistant chef, banquet chef, butcher, baker, and so on. Most modern operations, on the other hand, are smaller than this. The size of the classical brigade may be reduced simply by combining two or more positions where the workload allows it. For example, the second cook may combine the duties of the sauce cook, fish cook, soup cook, and vegetable cook. A typical medium-size operation may employ a chef, a second cook, a broiler cook, a pantry cook, and a few cooks’ helpers. A working chef is in charge of operations not large enough to have an executive chef. In addition to being in charge of the kitchen, the working chef also handles one of the production stations. For example, he or she may handle the sauté station, plate foods during service, and help on other stations when needed. Small kitchens may have only a chef, one or two cooks, and perhaps one or two assistants to handle simple jobs such as washing and peeling vegetables. Cooks who prepare or finish hot à la carte items during service in a restaurant may be known as line cooks. Line cooks are said to be on the hot line, or simply on the line. In many small operations, the short-order cook is the backbone of the kitchen during service time. This cook may handle the broiler, deep fryer, griddle, sandwich production, and even some sautéed items. In other words, the short-order cook’s responsibility is the preparation of foods that are quickly prepared to order. One special type of short-order cook is the breakfast cook. This worker is skilled at quickly and efficiently turning out egg dishes and other breakfast items to order. By contrast, establishments such as school cafeterias may do no cooking to order at all. Stations and assignments are based on the requirements of quantity preparation rather than cooking to order. Skill Levels The preceding discussion is necessarily general because there are so many kinds of kitchen organizations. Titles vary also. The responsibilities of the worker called the second cook, for example, are not necessarily the same in every establishment. Escoffier’s standardized system has evolved in many directions. One title that is often misunderstood and much abused is chef. The general public tends to refer to anyone with a white hat as a chef, and people who like to cook for guests in their homes refer to themselves as amateur chefs. Strictly speaking, the term chef is reserved for one who is in charge of a kitchen or a part of a kitchen. The word chef is French for “chief” or “head.” Studying this book will not make you a chef. The title must be earned by experience not only in preparing food but also in managing a staff and in planning production. New cooks who want to advance in their careers know they must always use the word chef with respect. Skills required of food production personnel vary not only with the job level but also with the establishment and the kind of food prepared. The director of a hospital kitchen and the head chef in a luxury restaurant need different skills. The skills needed by a short-order cook in a coffee shop are not exactly the same as those needed by a production worker in a school cafeteria. Nevertheless, we can group skills into three general categories. 1. Supervisory. The head of a food-service kitchen, whether called executive chef, head chef, working chef, or dietary director, must have management and supervisory skills as well as a thorough knowledge of food production. Leadership positions require an individual THE ORGANIZATION OF MODERN KITCHENS 9

who understands organizing and motivating people, planning menus and production procedures, controlling costs and managing budgets, and purchasing food supplies and equipment. Even if he or she does no cooking at all, the chef must be an experienced cook in order to schedule production, instruct workers, and control quality. Above all, the chef must be able to work well with people, even under extreme pressure. 2. Skilled and technical. While the chef is the head of an establishment, the cooks are the backbone. These workers carry out the actual food production. Thus, they must have knowledge of and experience in cooking techniques, at least for the dishes made in their own department. In addition, they must be able to function well with their fellow workers and to coordinate with other departments. Food production is a team activity. 3. Entry level. Entry-level jobs in food service usually require no particular skills or experience. Workers in these jobs are assigned such work as washing vegetables and preparing salad greens. As their knowledge and experience increase, they may be given more complex tasks and eventually become skilled cooks. Many executive chefs began their careers as pot washers who got a chance to peel potatoes when the pot sink was empty. Beginning in an entry-level position and working one’s way up with experience is the traditional method of advancing in a food-service career. Today, however, many cooks are graduates of culinary schools and programs. But even with such an education, many new graduates begin at entry-level positions. This is as it should be and certainly should not be seen as discouragement. Schools teach general cooking knowledge, while every food-service establishment requires specific skills according to its own menu and its own procedures. Experience as well as theoretical knowledge is needed to be able to adapt to real-life working situations. However, students who have studied and learned well should be able to work their way up more rapidly than beginners with no knowledge at all. Other Professional Opportunities Not all those who train to be professional culinarians end up in restaurant careers. Professional cooking expertise is valuable in many callings. The following are just a few of the employment opportunities available in addition to standard cooking positions. Most of these require advanced training in other fields in addition to food production. • Hospitality management in hotels, restaurants, large catering companies, and other organizations with a food-service component. • Product development and research for food manufacturers. • Product sales representatives for food and beverage distributors. • Product sales representatives for equipment companies. • Restaurant design and consulting. • Food styling for photography in books, magazines, and other publications, as well as for food packaging and marketing materials. • Food writing for newspapers, magazines, food industry journals, and other publications—not only restaurant criticism but analysis and reporting on foodrelated topics such as nutrition and health, agriculture, and food supply. • Training the next generation of chefs in culinary schools and in large hospitality companies with in-house training programs. 10 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY

Standards of Professionalism What does it take to be a good food-service worker? The emphasis of a food-service education is on learning a set of skills. But in many ways, attitudes are more important than skills because a good attitude will help you not only learn skills but also persevere and overcome the many difficulties you will face. The successful food-service worker follows an unwritten code of behavior and set of attitudes we call professionalism. Let’s look at some of the qualities a professional must have. Positive Attitude Toward the Job To be a good professional cook, you have to like cooking and want to do it well. Being serious about your work doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy it. But the enjoyment comes from the satisfaction of doing your job well and making everything run smoothly. Every experienced chef knows the stimulation of the rush. When it’s the busiest time of the evening, the orders are coming in so fast you can hardly keep track of them, and every split second counts—then, when everyone digs in and works together and everything clicks, there’s real excitement in the air. But this excitement comes only when you work for it. A cook with a positive attitude works quickly, efficiently, neatly, and safely. Professionals have pride in their work and want to make sure it is something to be proud of. Pride in your work and in your profession is important, but humility is important too, especially when you are starting out. Sometimes new culinary school graduates arrive on the job thinking they know everything. Remember that learning to cook and learning to manage a kitchen is a lifelong process and that you are not yet qualified to be executive chef. The importance of a professional attitude begins even before you start your first job. The standard advice for a successful job interview applies to cooks as well as to office professionals: Dress and behave not for the group you belong to but for the group you want to join. Arrive neat, clean, appropriately dressed, and on time. Get noticed for the right reasons. Carry this attitude through every day on the job. Staying Power Food service requires physical and mental stamina, good health, and a willingness to work hard. It is hard work. The pressure can be intense and the hours long and grueling. You may be working evenings and weekends when everyone else is playing. And the work can be monotonous. You might think it’s drudgery to hand-shape two or three dozen dinner rolls for your baking class, but wait until you get that great job in the big hotel and are told to make 3,000 canapés for a party. Overcoming these difficulties requires a sense of responsibility and a dedication to your profession, to your coworkers, and to your customers or clients. Dedication also means staying with a job and not hopping from kitchen to kitchen every few months. Sticking with a job at least a year or two shows prospective employers you are serious about your work and can be relied on. Ability to Work with People Few of you will work in an establishment so small you are the only person on the staff. Foodservice work is teamwork, and it’s essential to be able to work well on a team and to cooperate with your fellow workers. You can’t afford to let ego problems, petty jealousy, departmental rivalries, or feelings about other people get in the way of doing your job well. Today’s kitchens hold people of many races, nationalities, and origins, some of whom speak languages different from yours. You have to be able to work on the same team as everyone. In the old days, many chefs were famous for their temper tantrums. Fortunately, self-control is more valued today. STANDARDS OF PROFESSIONALISM 11

Eagerness to Learn There is more to learn about cooking than you will learn in a lifetime. The greatest chefs in the world are the first to admit they have more to learn, and they keep working, experimenting, and studying. The food-service industry is changing rapidly, so it is vital to be open to new ideas. No matter how good your techniques are, you might learn an even better way. Continue to study and read. Seek extra work that gives you the opportunity to learn from people with more experience. For example, if you are working on the hot line in a restaurant, ask the pastry chef if you could come in early, on your own time, to help out and, in the process, gain new knowledge and experience. Many culinary schools and programs have continuing education programs that can help you develop new skills. Professional associations such as the American Culinary Federation (ACF) and the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) provide opportunities for learning as well as for making contacts with other professionals. The ACF, as well as other professional organizations such as the Retail Bakers of America (RBA) and the International Food Service Executives Association (IFSEA), sponsor certification programs that document a professional’s skill level and encourage ongoing study. A Full Range of Skills Most people who become professional cooks do so because they like to cook. This is an important motivation, but it is also important to develop and maintain other skills necessary for the profession. To be successful, a cook must understand and manage food costs and other financial matters, manage and maintain proper inventories, deal with purveyors, and understand personnel management. Experience One of our most respected chefs said, “You don’t really know how to cook a dish until you have done it a thousand times.” There is no substitute for years of experience. Studying cooking principles in books and in schools can get your career off to a running start. You may learn more about basic cooking theories from your chef instructors than you could in several years of working your way up from washing vegetables. But if you want to become an accomplished cook, you need practice, practice, and more practice. A diploma does not make you a chef. Dedication to Quality Many people think only a special category of food can be called gourmet food. It’s hard to say exactly what that is. Apparently, the only thing so-called gourmet foods have in common is high price. The only distinction worth making is between well-prepared food and poorly prepared food. There is good roast duckling à l’orange and there is bad roast duckling à l’orange. There are good hamburgers and French fries, and there are bad hamburgers and French fries. Whether you work in a top restaurant, a fast-food restaurant, a college cafeteria, or a catering house, you can do your job well, or not. The choice is yours. High quality doesn’t necessarily mean high price. It costs no more to cook green beans properly than to overcook them. But in order to produce high-quality food, you must want to. It is not enough to simply know how. Good Understanding of the Basics Experimentation and innovation in cooking are the order of the day. Brilliant chefs are breaking old boundaries and inventing dishes that would have been unthinkable years ago. There is apparently no limit to what can be tried. However, the chefs who seem to be most revolutionary are the first to insist on the importance of solid grounding in basic techniques and in the classic methods practiced since Escoffier’s day. In order to innovate, you have to know where to begin. 12 CHAPTER 1 THE FOOD-SERVICE INDUSTRY

As a beginner, knowing the basics will help you take better advantage of your experience. When you watch a practiced cook at work, you will understand better what you are seeing and will know what questions to ask. In order to play great music on the piano, you first must learn to play scales and exercises. That’s what this book is about. It’s not a course in French cooking or American cooking or gourmet cooking or coffee shop cooking. It’s a course in the basics. When you finish the book, you will not know everything. But you should be ready to take good advantage of the many rewarding years of food-service experience ahead of you. QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 13 TERMS FOR REVIEW Marie-Antoine Carême Georges-Auguste Escoffier nouvelle cuisine fusion cuisine sous vide molecular gastronomy chef executive chef chef de cuisine sous chef station chef saucier poissonier entremetier rôtisseur grillardin garde manger pâtissier tournant expediter aboyeur working chef line cook short-order cook breakfast cook professionalism QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. Escoffier is sometimes called the father of modern food service. What were his most important accomplishments? 2. Discuss several ways in which modern technology has changed the food-service industry. 3. Discuss how an emphasis on high-quality ingredients beginning in the late twentieth century has influenced cooks and cooking styles. 4. What is fusion cuisine? Discuss how successful chefs make use of international influences. 5. What is the purpose of kitchen organization? Is the classical system of organization developed by Escoffier the best for all types of kitchens? Why or why not? 6. True or false: A cook in charge of the sauce and sauté station in a large hotel must have supervisory skills as well as cooking skills. Explain your answer. 7. True or false: If a culinary arts student in a professional school studies hard, works diligently, gets top grades, and shows real dedication, he or she will be qualified to be a chef upon graduation. Explain your answer. KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What are the major stations in a classical kitchen? What are their responsibilities? • How do the size and type of a food-service operation affect how the kitchen is organized? • What are the three basic skill levels of modern kitchen personnel? • What are eight personal characteristics that are important to the success of a food-service professional?

OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 2 The technique for cutting chives, page 146.

ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIEI n the last chapter, we talked about professionalism in food service. Professionalism is an attitude that reflects pride in the quality of your work. One of the most important ways of demonstrating professional pride is in the area of sanitation and safety. Pride in quality is reflected in your appearance and work habits. Poor hygiene, poor grooming and personal care, and sloppy work habits are nothing to be proud of. Even more important, poor sanitation and safety can cost a lot of money. Poor food-handling procedures and unclean kitchens cause illness, unhappy customers, and even fines, summonses, and lawsuits. Food spoilage raises food costs. Poor kitchen safety results in injuries, medical bills, and workdays lost. Finally, poor sanitation and safety habits show lack of respect for your customers, for your fellow workers, and for yourself. In this chapter, you will study the causes of food-borne diseases and kitchen injuries, and you will learn ways of preventing them. Prevention, of course, is the most important thing to learn. It is not as important to be able to recite the names of disease-causing bacteria as it is to be able to prevent their growth in food. Sanitation and Safety 15 After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Describe steps to prevent food poisoning and food-borne diseases in the following areas: personal hygiene, food handling and storage techniques, cleaning and sanitizing techniques, and pest control. 2. Demonstrate safe workplace habits that prevent injuries from the following: cuts, burns, operation of machinery and equipment, and lifting. 3. Identify safe workplace habits that minimize the likelihood of fires and falls.

Sanitation Rules of personal hygiene and sanitary food handling were not invented just to make your life difficult. There are good reasons for all of them. Instead of starting this chapter with lists of rules, we first talk about the causes of food-borne diseases. Then, when we get to the rules, you will understand why they are important. This will make them easier to remember and to practice. The rules presented in this chapter are basic guidelines only. Local health departments have more detailed regulations. All food-service operators are responsible for knowing the health department regulations in their own city and state. The information presented here is practical as well as theoretical. It should not merely be learned but also put to use systematically. One effective system food-service establishments can use to ensure food safety is the Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP) system. This practical program identifies possible danger points and sets up procedures for corrective action. HACCP is introduced later in this chapter. Food Hazards Preventing food-borne illness is one of the most important challenges facing every food service worker. In order to prevent illness, a food worker must understand the sources of food-borne disease. Most food-borne illness is the result of eating food that has been contaminated. To say a food is contaminated means it contains harmful substances not originally present in it. In other words, contaminated food is food that is not pure. In this section, we first discuss the various substances that can contaminate food and cause illness. Afterward, we consider how these substances get into food to contaminate it and how food workers can prevent contamination and avoid serving contaminated food. Any substance in food that can cause illness or injury is called a hazard. Food hazards are of four types: 1. Biological hazards 2. Chemical hazards 3. Physical hazards 4. Allergens Notice it was said most food-borne illness is caused by eating food contaminated with foreign substances. Some illness is caused not by contaminants but by substances that occur naturally in foods. These include plant toxins (toxin means “poison”), such as the chemicals in poisonous mushrooms, and certain natural food components to which some people are allergic. This section considers all these kinds of food hazards. Pathogens The most important kind of biological hazards to consider are microorganisms. A microorganism is a tiny, usually single-celled organism that can be seen only with a microscope. A microorganism that can cause disease is called a pathogen. Although these organisms sometimes occur in clusters large enough to be seen with the naked eye, they are not usually visible. This is one reason why they can be so dangerous. Just because food looks good doesn’t mean it is safe. Four kinds of microorganisms can contaminate food and cause illness: 1. Bacteria 2. Viruses 3. Fungi 4. Parasites 16 CHAPTER 2 SANITATION AND SAFETY