Second, an assortment of fresh fruit is often included on a cheese tray. This adds a great deal to the appearance of a cheese presentation, and the flavors go well with cheese. The photograph on this page shows an example of a cheese and fruit presentation. A Note on Sanitation Cold food for buffets presents a special sanitation problem. This is because the food spends a great deal of time out of refrigeration while it is being assembled and decorated and again while it sits on the buffet. For this reason, it is particularly important to follow all the rules of safe food handling. Keep foods refrigerated whenever they are not being worked on. Also, keep them chilled until the last minute before they are brought out for service. For a buffet service that lasts a long time, it is a good idea to arrange each course or item on a number of small platters rather than on one big one. The replacements can then be refrigerated until needed. Hot Foods for Buffets Everything you have learned about the preparation and holding of hot foods in quantity applies to hot foods for buffets. Hot items are nearly always served from chafing dishes, which may be ornate silver affairs or simple steam table pans kept warm over hot water. These foods cannot be elaborately decorated and garnished the way cold foods can. On the other hand, the bright, fresh, juicy appearance and good aroma of properly cooked hot food is generally sufficient to arouse appetites. Hot foods for chafing dishes should be easily portioned (such as vegetables served with a kitchen spoon) or already portioned in the pan (braised pork chops, sliced baked ham, and poached fish fillets, for example). Items less suitable for buffets are those that must be cooked to order and served immediately, such as most broiled and deep-fried foods. Whole roasts are popular items at buffets, carved to order by a member of the kitchen staff. Especially attractive are large roasts such as hams, turkeys, and large cuts of beef such as steamship round. As previously noted, hot foods are best placed at the end of the buffet so they do not cool on the guests’ plates before they are seated and so the decorated cold foods can steal the show. QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 917 One type of cheese and fruit presentation for buffet service. KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What garnish terms from classical cuisine are still used today? What do they mean? • What guidelines should be observed when arranging hot foods on platters? • When planning a buffet, how do you create the impression of lavishness? What guidelines help you achieve simplicity and orderliness? • In general, in what order should items be arranged on a buffet? • What guidelines should be observed when planning a cold buffet platter? TERMS FOR REVIEW garnish garniture classical garnish grosse pièce ravier QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. Discuss the idea of professionalism and how it applies to the presentation of food. 2. Following are several popular food combinations. Describe what plating problems they present, if any, and how you might efficiently and economically solve them. Fish and chips (deep-fried fillets and French fries) Prime rib of beef and baked potato Meat loaf, mashed potatoes, and gravy Open-faced hot turkey sandwich Beef stroganoff and egg noodles Chicken à la king in a patty shell 3. What is meant by plating food for the convenience of the customer, and how does this affect other rules of plating? 4. What is the difference between a cocktail buffet and a luncheon or dinner buffet? 5. Customers like to see a lot of food on a buffet. Is it correct to say, then, that the best way to please customers is to put out as much food as possible? Explain your answer. 6. When you are preparing a cold buffet platter, why is it a good idea to plan ahead by making a sketch? What would you include in the sketch? What do the terms movement and focal point mean in platter design?
OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 29 Piping choux paste for cream puffs, page 1025.
ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIEA t one time, it was common for food-service establishments to produce their own breads, desserts, and other baked goods. Today, many operations find it more economical to buy these products from commercial bakeries. However, many other owners and chefs have discovered that offering fresh, “home-baked” breads, cakes, and pastries attracts customers and increases profits. With little more than an oven and a mixer, many cooks turn out attractive baked items that set their operations apart from competitors. For this reason, it is important for you to learn the fundamentals of baking, even if you intend to become a cook rather than a baker. These chapters will not make a professional baker out of you. A baker requires far more technical and specialized information than can be presented in this short space. But you will learn the basic methods for producing a wide variety of breads, desserts, and pastries with only the simplest of resources. In this chapter, we introduce bakeshop production with a discussion of the basic processes and ingredients common to nearly all baked goods. This will give you the understanding necessary to proceed to actual production in the succeeding chapters. Bakeshop Production: Basic Principles and Ingredients 919 After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Explain why it is important to weigh baking ingredients. 2. Use a baker’s balance scale. 3. Calculate formulas based on baker’s percentages. 4. Explain the factors that control the development of gluten in baked products. 5. Explain the changes that take place in a dough or batter as it bakes. 6. Prevent or retard the staling of baked items. 7. Describe the major ingredients of baked goods and their functions and characteristics.
Basic Principles of Baking If you consider that most bakery products are made of the same few ingredients—flour, shortening, sugar, eggs, water or milk, and leavening—you should have no difficulty understanding the importance of accuracy in the bakeshop, where slight differences in proportions or procedures can mean great differences in the final product. If you have begun your food-service studies in a kitchen production laboratory, you surely have been told many times of the importance of measurement, not only for portion control and cost control but also for consistency in the quality of the final product. However, you have, no doubt, also learned there is a great deal of margin for error and that it is possible (if not desirable) to cook many foods without measuring anything. Coming into the bakeshop, where measurement is absolutely essential, may be a bit of a shock to you after your kitchen experiences, but it should reinforce the habits of accuracy you may have let slip. If, on the other hand, you are beginning your practical studies in the bakeshop, then you will do well to pay particular attention to the principles of measurement presented here. They will be valuable to you throughout your career. Formulas and Measurement Bakers generally talk about formulas rather than recipes. If this sounds more like the chemistry lab than the kitchen, it is with good reason. The bakeshop is much like a chemistry laboratory both in the scientific accuracy of all the procedures and in the complex reactions that take place during mixing and baking. Measurement All ingredients must be weighed. Accuracy of measurement, as we have already said many times, is critical in the bakeshop. Measurement is by weight rather than by volume because weight is much more accurate. Unlike in recipes for the home baker, you will not see a professional baker’s formula calling for 6 cups flour. To demonstrate to yourself the importance of weighing rather than measuring by volume, measure 1 cup flour in two ways. (1) Sift some flour and lightly spoon it into a dry measure. Level the top and weigh the flour. (2) Scoop some unsifted flour into the same measure and pack it lightly. Level the top and weigh the flour. Note the difference. No wonder home recipes can be so inconsistent! 920 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS Digital professional scale Courtesy of Cardinal Detecto
The baker’s term for weighing out ingredients is scaling. The following ingredients may be measured by volume because they weigh 1 pound per pint or 1 kilogram per liter: Water Milk Eggs Thus, if a formula calls for 2 pounds eggs, you may measure 2 pints (1 quart). (Liquid flavoring ingredients, such as vanilla extract, normally measured in very small quantities, may also be measured by volume; 1 tablespoon equals 1 ⁄2 ounce.) In the metric system, 1 milliliter water weighs 1 gram; 1 liter weighs 1 kilogram. All other liquid ingredients (such as corn syrup and molasses) and all dry ingredients are normally weighed. Baker’s Percentages Bakers use a simple but versatile system of percentages for expressing their formulas. Bakers’ percentages express the amount of each ingredient used as a percentage of the amount of flour used. To put it differently, the percentage of each ingredient is its total weight divided by the weight of the flour and multiplied by 100 percent, or weight of ingredient × 100% = % of ingredient weight of flour Thus, flour is always 100 percent. (If two kinds of flour are used, their total is 100 percent.) Any ingredient that weighs the same as the flour is also given as 100 percent. The following ingredients from a cake formula illustrate how these percentages are used. Both U.S. and metric examples are given. (Note that numbers may be rounded off for practical measuring.) Check the figures with the above equation to make sure you understand them. BASIC PRINCIPLES OF BAKING 921 Procedure for Using a Baker’s Balance Scale The principle of using a baker’s scale is simple: The scale must balance before setting the weights, and it must balance again after scaling. The example cited illustrates using a scale with U.S. units. The same procedure is used for metric scales. 1. Set the scale scoop or other container on the left side of the scale. 2. Balance the scale by placing counterweights on the right side and/or adjusting the ounce weight on the horizontal bar. 3. Set the scale for the desired weight by placing weights on the right side and/or by moving the ounce weight. For example, to set the scale for 1 pound 8 ounces, place a 1-pound weight on the right side and move the ounce weight to the right 8 ounces. If the ounce weight is already over 8 ounces, so that you cannot move it another 8, add 2 pounds to the right side of the scale and subtract 8 ounces by moving the ounce weight 8 places to the left. The result is still 1 pound 8 ounces. 4. Add the ingredient being scaled to the left side until the scale balances. Ingredient Weight Percentage Cake flour 15 lb 100.5 % Sugar 15 lb 100.5 % Baking powder 11111 4 oz 5.5 % Salt 11111 2 oz 2.5 % Emulsified shortening 12 lb 1 8 oz 50.5 % Skim milk 13 lb 60.5 % Egg whites 13 lb 60.5 % 18 lb 14 oz 377.5 % Ingredient Weight Percentage Cake flour 2500 g 100.5 % Sugar 2500 g 100.5 % Baking powder 125 g 5.5 % Salt 60 g 2.5 % Emulsified shortening 1250 g 50.5 % Skim milk 1500 g 60.5 % Egg whites 1500 g 60.5 % 9435 g 377.5 % Balance scale Courtesy of Cardinal Detecto
The advantage of using baker’s percentages is that the formula is easily adapted for any yield, and single ingredients may be varied without changing the whole formulation. Please remember that these numbers do not refer to the percentage of the total yield. They are simply a way of expressing ingredient proportions. The total of these percentage numbers will always be greater than 100 percent. Clearly, the percentage system we have been discussing is used only when flour is a major ingredient, as in breads, cakes, and cookies. For these formulas, we use a written format different from our regular recipe format in this book. In these formulas, the indicated yield is the total weight of the ingredients. This figure indicates the weight of the batter or dough. It is the figure we need to know for the purpose of scaling the dough or batter into loaves or pans. The finished weight of the baked goods will be less because moisture is lost during baking. Also, please note that all yields, including percentage totals, are rounded off to the next lower whole number. This eliminates unimportant fractions and makes reading and calculating easier. Selection of Ingredients In addition to measuring, there is another basic rule of accuracy in the bakeshop: Use the exact ingredients specified. 922 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS Procedure for Calculating the Weight of an Ingredient If the Weight of Flour Is Known 1. Change the ingredient percentage to decimal form by moving the decimal point two places to the left. 2. Multiply the weight of the flour by this decimal to get the weight of the ingredient. Example(U.S.): A formula calls for 20 percent sugar and you are using 10 pounds flour. How much sugar do you need? 20% = 0.20 10 lb × 0.20 = 2 lb sugar Note: In the U.S. system, weights must normally be expressed all in one unit, either ounces or pounds, in order for the calculation to work, as explained in Chapter 5. Example(Metric): A formula calls for 20 percent sugar and you are using 5000 grams (5 kg) flour. How much sugar do you need? 20% = 0.20 5000 g × 0.20 = 1000 g sugar Procedure for Converting a Formula to a New Yield 1. Change the total percentage to decimal form by moving the decimal point two places to the left. 2. Divide the desired yield by this decimal figure to get the weight of flour. 3. If necessary, round off this number to the next highest figure. This will allow for losses in mixing, makeup, and panning, and it will make calculations easier. 4. Use the weight of flour and remaining ingredient percentages to calculate the weights of the other ingredients, as in the previous procedure. Example: In the previous sample cake formula, how much flour is needed if you require 6 pounds (3000 g) cake batter? 6 lb = 96 oz 377.5% = 3.775 96 oz ÷ 3.775 = 25.43 oz or, rounded off, 26 oz (1 lb 10 oz) 3000 g ÷ 3.775 = 794.7 g or, rounded off, 800 g
As you will learn in this chapter, different flours, shortenings, and other ingredients do not function alike. Bakers’ formulas are balanced for specific ingredients. Do not substitute bread flour for pastry flour or regular shortening for emulsified shortening, for example. They won’t work the same way. Occasionally, a substitution may be made, such as active dry yeast for compressed yeast (see p. 932), but not without adjusting the quantities or rebalancing the formula. Mixing and Gluten Development What Is Gluten? Gluten is a substance made up of proteins present in wheat flour; it gives structure and strength to baked goods. In order for gluten to be developed, the proteins must first absorb water. Then, as the dough or batter is mixed or kneaded, the gluten forms long, elastic strands. As the dough or batter is leavened, these strands capture the gases in tiny pockets or cells, and we say the product rises. When the product is baked, the gluten, like all proteins (see p. 65), coagulates or solidifies and gives structure to the product. How Does the Baker Control Gluten? Flour is mostly starch, but its protein or gluten content, not its starch, concerns the baker most. Without gluten proteins to give structure, baked goods would not hold together. The baker must be able to control the gluten, however. For example, we want French bread to be firm and chewy, which requires much gluten. On the other hand, we want cakes to be tender, which means we want very little gluten development. Ingredient proportions and mixing methods are determined, in part, by how they affect the development of gluten. The baker has several methods for adjusting gluten development. 1. Selection of flours. Wheat flours are classified as strong or weak, depending on their protein content. Strong flours come from hard wheat and have a high protein content. Weak flours come from soft wheat and have a low protein content. Thus, we use strong flours for breads and weak flours for cakes. Only wheat flour develops gluten. To make bread from rye and other grains, the formula must be balanced with some high-gluten wheat flour, or the bread will be heavy. 2. Shortening. Any fat used in baking is called a shortening because it shortens gluten strands. It does this by surrounding the particles and lubricating them so they do not stick together. Thus, fats are tenderizers. A cookie or pastry that is very crumbly due to high fat content is said to be short. You can see why French bread has little or no fat, while cakes contain a great deal. 3. Liquid. Because gluten proteins must absorb water before they can be developed, the amount of water in a formula can affect toughness or tenderness. To keep them tender, pie crusts and crisp cookies are made with very little liquid. BASIC PRINCIPLES OF BAKING 923 KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What is the proper way to measure bakeshop ingredients? Why? • What is the procedure for weighing ingredients using a baker’s balance scale? • How do you use baker’s percentages to calculate the weight of ingredients in a baking formula?
4. Mixing methods. In general, the more a dough or batter is mixed, the more the gluten develops. Thus, bread doughs are mixed or kneaded for a long time to develop the gluten. Cakes, pie crusts, muffins, and other products that must be tender are mixed for a short time. It is possible to overmix bread dough, however. Gluten strands stretch only so far. They break if the dough is overmixed. The Baking Process The changes undergone by a dough or batter as it bakes are basically the same for all baked products, from breads to cookies and cakes. You should know what these changes are so you can learn how to control them. The stages in the baking process take place as follows. Be aware that many of these steps occur at the same time, not one after the other. For example, escape of water vapor and other gases begins almost at once, but it is more rapid later in the baking process. 1. Melting of fats. Different fats melt—and release trapped gases—at different temperatures, so the proper shortening should be selected for each product. Most fats used in baking melt between 90°and 130°F (32° and 55°C). As the fats melt, they surround the air cells and make the product more tender. 2. Formation and expansion of gases. Some gases are already present in the dough, as in proofed bread dough and in sponge cake batters. As they are heated, the gases expand and leaven the product. Some gases are not formed until heat is applied. Yeast and baking powder form gases rapidly when first placed in the oven. Steam is also formed as the moisture of the dough is heated. As the product rises, the cell walls become thinner as they are stretched by the expanding gases. This tenderizes the product. Leavening and leavening agents are discussed in more detail beginning on page 932. 3. Killing of yeast and other microorganisms. In addition to yeast, doughs may contain other microorganisms, including bacteria and molds. Most of these, including yeast, die when the item reaches about 140°F (60°C). When yeast dies, fermentation stops and no more gas is released. 4. Coagulation of proteins. Like all proteins, gluten and egg proteins coagulate or solidify when they reach high enough temperatures. This is the process that gives structure to baked goods. Correct baking temperature is important. If the temperature is too high, coagulation will start too soon, before the expansion of gases has reached its peak. The product will have poor volume or a split crust. If the temperature is too low, the proteins will not coagulate soon enough, and the product may collapse. 5. Gelatinization of starches. The starches absorb moisture, expand, and become firmer. 6. Escape of water and other gases. This takes place throughout the baking process, but it is fastest during the later stages of baking. Water evaporation decreases the weight of the product and also enables crust formation. 7. Crust formation and browning. Browning occurs when sugars caramelize and starches and proteins undergo Maillard browning (p. 65). This contributes to flavor. Milk, sugar, and egg increase browning. A crust is formed as water evaporates from the surface and leaves it dry. 924 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS
Staling Staling is the change in texture and aroma of baked goods due to the change in structure and the loss of moisture by the starch granules. Stale baked goods have lost their fresh-baked aroma and are firmer, drier, and more crumbly than fresh products. Prevention of staling is a major concern of the baker because most baked goods lose quality rapidly. Staling can be slowed by these techniques: 1. Protecting the product from air. Wrapping bread in plastic and covering cakes with icing are two examples. Unfortunately, hard-crusted breads, which stale rapidly, should not be wrapped, or the crusts will become soft. These bread products should always be served fresh. 2. Adding moisture retainers to the formula. Fats and sugars are good moisture retainers, and products high in these ingredients keep best. Some of the best French bread has no fat at all, and if it is not served within hours of baking, it will begin to stale. For longer keeping, bakers often add a very small amount of fat and/or sugar to the formula. 3. Freezing. Baked goods frozen before they become stale maintain quality for longer periods. They should be served very soon after thawing. Frozen breads may be reheated with excellent results if they are served immediately. Refrigerating actually seems to speed staling rather than slowing it. Only baked goods that could develop health hazards, such as those with cream fillings, are refrigerated. Loss of crispness is caused by absorption of moisture, so it is, in a sense, the opposite of staling. This is a problem with low-moisture products such as cookies and pie crusts. The problem is usually solved by proper storage in airtight wraps or containers to protect the products from moisture in the air. Prebaked pie shells should be filled as close to service time as possible. Ingredients The following introduction to baking ingredients is necessarily simplified. If you decide to pursue a career as a baker, you will need to learn a great deal of technical information. However, the basic information presented here is enough to enable you to produce a full range of baked items in a small bakeshop or restaurant kitchen. Flours, Meals, and Starches White Wheat Flour White wheat flour is milled from wheat kernels after the outer covering, called bran, and the germ are removed. Wheat flour contains 63 to 73 percent starch and 7 to 15 percent protein. The rest is moisture, fat, sugar, and minerals. Wheat flour is the source of the protein called gluten, which you remember is one of the essential elements in baking. Bakers select flour on the basis of its gluten content. Flours high in protein are called strong, and those low in protein are called weak. (Note: Rye, barley, oats, and some other grains also contain gluten proteins, but these proteins do not develop INGREDIENTS 925 KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What is gluten? What are four ways to control gluten development in doughs and batters? • What are seven changes that take place in doughs and batters as they are baked? • How can you slow the rate at which baked goods become stale?
into a gluten structure as do the proteins in wheat flour. Thus, for the baker, these other grains in effect do not contain gluten, but people with gluten intolerance may still have to avoid them in their diets.) For our purposes, in the small bakeshop, we need to know about three kinds of wheat flour. 1. Bread flour is a strong flour used for making breads, hard rolls, and any product that requires high gluten. The best bread flours are called patents. Straight flours are also strong flours. 2. Cake flour is a weak or low-gluten flour made from soft wheat. It has a soft, smooth texture and a pure white color. Cake flour is used for cakes and other delicate baked goods that require low gluten content. 3. Pastry flour is lower in gluten than bread flour but higher than cake flour. It has the same creamy white color as bread flour, not the pure white of cake flour. Pastry flour is used for cookies, pie pastry, some sweet yeast doughs, biscuits, and muffins. Being able to identify these three flours by sight and touch is an important skill because, sooner or later, someone will dump a bag of flour into the wrong bin, and you will need to recognize the problem. Bread flour feels slightly coarse when rubbed between the fingers. If squeezed into a lump, it falls apart as soon as the hand is opened. Its color is creamy white. Cake flour feels smooth and fine. It stays in a lump when squeezed in the palm of the hand. Its color is pure white. Pastry flour feels like cake flour but has the creamy color of bread flour. All-purpose flour, seen in retail markets, is not often found in bakeshops. This flour is formulated to be slightly weaker than bread flour so it can be used for pastries as well. A professional baker, however, prefers to use flours formulated for specific purposes because these give the best results. Whole Wheat Flour Whole wheat flour is made by grinding the entire wheat kernel, including the bran and germ. The germ, which is the embryo of a new wheat plant, is high in fat, which can become rancid. This is why whole wheat flour does not keep as well as white flour. Because it is made from wheat, whole wheat flour contains gluten, so it can be used alone in bread making. However, a bread made with 100 percent whole wheat will be heavy because the gluten strands are cut by the sharp edges of the bran flakes. Also, the fat from the wheat germ contributes slightly to the shortening action. This is why most whole wheat breads are strengthened with white bread flour. Bran flour is flour to which bran flakes have been added. The bran may be coarse or fine, depending on specifications. Rye Flour Next to white and whole wheat, rye is the most popular flour in bread making. Because rye flour does not develop much gluten, breads made with it are heavy unless some hard wheat flour is added. Rye flour is available in three shades, light, medium, and dark. Rye meal or pumpernickel is a coarse meal made from the whole rye grain. Rye blend is a mixture of rye flour and hard wheat flour. Other Flours Products milled from other grains are occasionally used to add variety to baked goods. These include cornmeal, buckwheat flour, soy flour, potato flour, oat flour, and barley flour. The term meal is used for products that are not as finely ground as flour. 926 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS
All these products must normally be used in combination with wheat flour because they do not form gluten. Starches In addition to flours, other starch products are also used in the bakeshop. Unlike flour, they are used primarily to thicken puddings, pie fillings, and similar products. The principles of thickening with starches are covered in Chapter 8. The most important starches in dessert production are as follows: 1. Cornstarch has a special property that makes it valuable for certain purposes. Products thickened with cornstarch set up almost like gelatin when cooled. For this reason, it is used to thicken cream pies and other products that must hold their shape. 2. Waxy maize and other modified starches also have valuable properties. They do not break down when frozen, so are used for products that are to be frozen. Also, they are clear when cooked, and give a brilliant, clear appearance to fruit pie fillings. Waxy maize does not set up firm like cornstarch but rather makes a soft paste, which has the same consistency hot and cold. Thus, it is not suitable for cream pie fillings. 3. Instant starches are precooked or pregelatinized, so they thicken cold liquids without further cooking. They are useful when heat will damage the flavor of the product, as in fresh fruit glazes (such as strawberry). Fats We have said that one of the main functions of fats in baking is to shorten gluten strands and tenderize the product. We can summarize the reasons for using fats in baked items as follows: • To tenderize the product and soften the texture. • To add moistness and richness. • To increase keeping quality. • To add flavor. • To assist in leavening when used as creaming agents or when used to give flakiness to puff pastry, pie dough, and similar products. Shortenings Any fat acts as a shortening in baking because it shortens gluten strands and tenderizes the product. However, we usually use the word shortening to mean any of a group of solid fats, usually white and tasteless, that are specially formulated for baking. Because shortenings are used for many purposes, manufacturers have formulated different kinds of fats with different properties. Following are the three main types of shortening. REGULAR SHORTENINGS These shortenings have a tough, waxy texture, and small particles of the fat tend to hold their shape in a dough or batter. This type of shortening does not melt until a high temperature is reached. Regular shortening has good creaming ability. This means that a large quantity of air can be mixed into it to give a batter lightness and leavening power. Therefore, it is used in products mixed by the creaming method, such as certain cookies. Because of its texture, this type of shortening is used for flaky products such as pie crusts and biscuits. It is also used in breads and many pastries. Unless another shortening is specified, regular shortening is generally used. INGREDIENTS 927
EMULSIFIED SHORTENINGS These are soft shortenings that spread easily throughout a batter and quickly coat the particles of sugar and flour. Because of their easy spreading, they give a smoother and finer texture to cakes and make them moister. Emulsified shortening is often used whenever the weight of sugar in a cake batter is greater than the weight of flour. Because this shortening spreads so well, a simpler mixing method can be used, as explained in Chapter 32. Such cakes are referred to as high-ratio cakes, so emulsified shortening is sometimes called high-ratio shortening. In addition, emulsified shortening is used in certain icings because it can hold more sugar and liquid without curdling. PUFF PASTRY SHORTENINGS Puff pastry shortenings are firm like regular shortening. They are especially formulated for puff pastry and other doughs that form layers, such as Danish pastry. Butter and Margarine Shortenings are manufactured to have certain textures and hardness. Butter, on the other hand, is a natural product that doesn’t have these advantages. It is hard and brittle when cold and soft at room temperature, and it melts easily. Consequently, doughs made with butter are hard to handle. Margarine is a little easier to handle, but it has many of the same disadvantages. On the other hand, butter and margarine have two major advantages. 1. Flavor. Shortenings are intentionally flavorless, but butter has a highly desirable flavor. 2. Melting qualities. Butter melts in the mouth. Shortenings do not. After eating pastries or icings made with shortening, one can be left with an unpleasant film of shortening coating the mouth. For these reasons, many bakers and pastry chefs feel the advantages of butter outweigh its disadvantages for some purposes. Oils Oils are liquid fats. They are not often used as shortening in baking because they spread through a batter or dough too thoroughly and shorten too much. Their usefulness in the bakeshop is limited primarily to greasing pans and proofing bowls, to deep-frying doughnuts, and to serving as a wash for some kinds of rolls. A few quick breads and cakes use oil as a shortening. Lard Lard is the rendered fat of hogs. Because of its plastic quality, it was once highly valued for making flaky pie crusts. Since the development of modern shortenings, it is not often used in the bakeshop. Sugars Sugars or sweetening agents are used for the following purposes in baking: • To add sweetness and flavor. • To create tenderness and fineness of texture by weakening the gluten structure. • To give crust color. 928 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS
• To increase keeping qualities by retaining moisture. • To act as creaming agents with fats. We customarily use the term sugar for regular refined sugars derived from sugar cane or beets. The chemical name for these sugars is sucrose. However, other sugars of different chemical structure are also used in the bakeshop. The following are the more important sugars. Regular Refined Sugars, or Sucrose Refined sugars are classified by the size of grains. 1. Granulated sugar. Regular granulated, also called fine granulated or table sugar, is the most familiar and the most commonly used. Very fine and ultrafine sugars are finer than regular granulated. They are prized for making cakes and cookies because they make a more uniform batter and can support higher quantities of fat. Sanding sugars are coarser and are used for coating doughnuts, cakes, and other products. 2. Confectioners’ or powdered sugars. Confectioners’ sugars are ground to a fine powder and mixed with a small amount of starch to prevent caking. They are classified by coarseness or fineness. 10X is the finest sugar. It gives the smoothest texture in icings. 6X is the standard confectioners’ sugar. It is used in icings, toppings, and cream fillings. Coarser types (4X and XX) are used for dusting or for any purposes for which 6X and 10X are too fine. Molasses and Brown Sugar Molasses is concentrated sugar cane juice. Sulfured molasses is a byproduct of sugar refining. It is the product that remains after most of the sugar has been extracted from cane juice. Unsulfured molasses is not a byproduct but a specially manufactured sugar product. Its taste is less bitter than that of sulfured molasses. Molasses contains large amounts of sucrose, plus other sugars, acids, and impurities. Brown sugar is mostly sucrose, but it also contains varying amounts of molasses and other impurities. The darker grades contain more molasses. Because molasses and brown sugar contain acids, they can be used with baking soda to provide leavening (see p. 932). Molasses retains moisture in baked goods and so prolongs freshness. However, crisp cookies made with molasses quickly become soft for the same reason. Corn Syrup Corn syrup is a liquid sweetener consisting mainly of a sugar called glucose. It is made by converting cornstarch into simpler sugar compounds by the use of enzymes. Corn syrup aids in retaining moisture and is used in some icings and in candy making. Glucose Syrup While corn syrup contains other sugars in addition to glucose, pure glucose syrup is also available. It resembles corn syrup but is colorless and nearly tasteless. If a recipe calls for glucose syrup and none is available, substitute light corn syrup. INGREDIENTS 929
Honey Honey is a natural sugar syrup consisting largely of glucose and fructose, plus other compounds that give it flavor. Honeys vary considerably in flavor and color, depending on their source. Flavor is the major reason for using honey, especially because it can be expensive. Honey contains invert sugar, which means it stays smooth and resists crystallizing. Like molasses, it contains acid, which enables it to be used with baking soda as a leavening. Malt Syrup Malt syrup is used primarily in yeast breads. It serves as food for the yeast and adds flavor and crust color to the breads. Liquids Gluten cannot be developed without moisture, so liquids are essential to the baking process. Pie crusts provide a good illustration of how liquids function in baking. If too much water is incorporated in a pie dough, a lot of gluten develops and the crust is tough. If no water at all is used, no gluten develops and the crust does not hold together. Some of the moisture in doughs and batters changes to steam during baking. This contributes to leavening. Water Water is the basic liquid in baking, especially in breads. Tap water is normally suitable for most baking purposes. However, in some localities, the water may be hard, meaning it contains many dissolved minerals. These minerals interfere with proper gluten development. In these areas, the water may have to be treated for use in baking. Milk and Cream Milk products, as described in Chapter 25, are important in baking. These products include liquid whole and skim milk, buttermilk, and dry milk solids. Milk contributes to the texture, flavor, nutritional value, keeping quality, and crust color of baked goods. 1. Whole milk contains fat, which must be calculated as part of the shortening in a dough. For this reason, whole and skim milk are not interchangeable in a formula unless adjustments are made for the fat. 2. Buttermilk, which is slightly acid, is often used in conjunction with baking soda as a leavening agent in quick breads. 930 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What three main types of white wheat flour are used in the bakeshop? Describe them. • What five functions do fats have in baked goods? • What is the difference between regular and emulsified shortening? When compared with shortening, what are two advantages and one disadvantage of using butter in baked goods? • What five functions do sugars have in baked goods? What is the difference between regular granulated sugar and confectioners’ sugar?
3. Cream is not often used as a liquid in doughs and batters, except in a few specialty products. In these instances, it is used as a shortening as well as a liquid because of its fat content. Cream is more important in the production of fillings and toppings. 4. Dry milk is often used because of its convenience and low cost. In some formulas, it is not necessary to reconstitute it. The milk powder is included with the dry ingredients, and water is used as the liquid. Other Sources of Liquid Eggs, honey, molasses, and even butter (about 15 percent water) contribute moisture to a dough or batter. In many cookies, for example, eggs are the only liquid in the formula. Eggs Forms As we discussed in Chapter 24, eggs are purchased in the following forms: 1. Whole shell eggs. 2. Frozen: whites, yolks, whole, and whole with extra yolks. 3. Dried: whole, whites, yolks. Functions Eggs perform the following functions in baking: 1. Structure. Like gluten protein, egg protein coagulates to give structure to baked products. This is especially important in high-ratio cakes, where the high sugar and fat content weakens the gluten. If used in large quantities, eggs make baked products tough or chewy unless balanced by high fat and sugar, which are tenderizers. 2. Emulsification of fats. Egg yolks contain natural emulsifiers, which help produce smooth batters. This contributes to both volume and texture. 3. Leavening. Beaten eggs incorporate air in tiny cells or bubbles. In a batter, this trapped air expands when heated and aids in leavening. 4. Shortening action. The fat in egg yolks acts as a shortening. This is an important function in products that are low in other fats. 5. Moisture. Whole eggs are about 70 percent water, egg whites about 86 percent water, and egg yolks about 49 percent water. This moisture must be calculated as part of the total liquid in a formula. 6. Flavor. 7. Nutritional value. 8. Color. Yolks impart a yellow color to doughs and batters. Also, eggs brown easily and contribute to crust color. INGREDIENTS 931
Leavening Agents Leavening is the production or incorporation of gases in a baked product to increase volume and to produce shape and texture. These gases must be retained in the product until the structure is set enough (by the coagulation of gluten and egg protein) to hold its shape. Exact measurement of leavening agents is important because small changes can produce major defects in baked products. Yeast Fermentation is the process by which yeast acts on carbohydrates and changes them into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. This release of gas produces the leavening action in yeast products. The alcohol evaporates completely during and immediately after baking. Yeast is a microscopic plant. As a living organism, it is sensitive to temperatures. 34°F (1°C) Inactive; storage temperature. 60° to 70°F (15° to 20°C) Slow action. 70° to 90°F (20° to 32°C) Best growth; proofing temperature for bread doughs. Above 100°F (38°C) Reaction slows. 140°F (60°C) Yeast is killed. Yeast is available in three forms: 1. Fresh yeast, also called compressed yeast, is moist and perishable and is preferred by professional bakers. It is usually purchased in 1-lb (450-g) cakes. 2. Active dry yeast is a dry, granular form of yeast. Active dry yeast must be rehydrated in 4 times its weight of warm water—about 110°F (43°C)—before use. When using active dry yeast in a bread formula, use part of the water in the formula to dissolve the yeast. Do not add more water. 3. Instant dry yeast is also a dry granular form of yeast, but it does not have to be dissolved in water before use. It can be added in its dry form because it absorbs water much more quickly than regular dry yeast. It also produces more gas than regular dry yeast, so less of it is needed. Instant dry yeast is sometimes called rapid-rise or quickrise yeast. In this book, when yeast is required in a formula, fresh yeast is specified. To substitute dry yeast, use the following guidelines. To convert fresh yeast to regular active dry yeast, multiply the quantity by 0.5. For example, if the formula calls for 11 ⁄2 ounces fresh yeast, multiply by 0.5 to get 3 ⁄4 ounce active dry yeast. To convert fresh yeast to instant dry yeast, multiply the quantity by 0.35. For example, if the formula calls for 40 g fresh yeast, multiply by 0.35 to get 14 g instant yeast. Yeast contributes flavor in addition to leavening action. Chemical Leaveners Chemical leaveners are those that release gases produced by chemical reactions. BAKING SODA Baking soda is the chemical sodium bicarbonate. If moisture and an acid are present, soda releases carbon dioxide gas, which leavens the product. Heat is not necessary for the reaction (although the gas is released faster at higher temperatures). For this reason, products leavened with soda must be baked at once, or the gases will escape and leavening power will be lost. Acids that react with soda in a batter include honey, molasses, buttermilk, fruits, cocoa, and chocolate. Sometimes cream of tartar is used for the acid. The amount of soda used in a 932 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS
formula is generally the amount needed to balance the acid. If more leavening power is needed, baking powder, not more soda, is used. BAKING POWDER Baking powders are mixtures of baking soda plus an acid to react with it. Because baking powders do not depend on acid ingredients for their leavening power in a formula, they are more versatile. Single-acting baking powders require only moisture to be able to release gas. Like baking soda, they can be used only if the product is to be baked immediately after mixing. Double-acting baking powders release some gas when cold, but they require heat for complete reaction. Thus, cake batters made with these can incorporate the leavening agent early in the mixing period and can stand for some time before being baked. Do not include more baking powder than necessary in a formula because undesirable flavors may be created. BAKING AMMONIA Baking ammonia is the chemical ammonium carbonate. It decomposes during baking to form carbon dioxide gas and ammonia gas. Only heat and moisture are necessary for it to work. No acids are needed. Because it decomposes completely, it leaves no residue that can affect flavor. However, it can be used only in small products, like cookies, which allow the ammonia gas to be completely driven off. Baking ammonia releases gases quickly, so it is sometimes used in products like cream puffs where rapid leavening is desired. Air Air is incorporated into a batter primarily by two methods, creaming and foaming. This air expands during baking and leavens the product. 1. Creaming is the process of beating fat and sugar together to incorporate air. It is an important technique in cake and cookie making. Some pound cakes and cookies are leavened almost entirely by this method. 2. Foaming is the process of beating eggs, with or without sugar, to incorporate air. Foams made with whole eggs are used to leaven sponge cakes, while angel food cakes, meringues, and soufflés are leavened with egg white foams. Steam When water turns to steam, it expands to 1,600 times its original volume. Because all baked products contain some moisture, steam is an important leavening agent. Puff pastry, cream puffs, popovers, and pie crusts use steam as their major or only leavening agent. If the starting baking temperature for these products is high, steam is produced rapidly and leavening is greatest. Salt, Flavorings, and Spices Salt Salt plays an important role in baking. It is more than just a seasoning or flavor enhancer. It also has these functions: 1. Salt strengthens gluten structure and makes it more stretchable. Thus, it improves the texture of breads. INGREDIENTS 933
2. Salt inhibits yeast growth. It is, therefore, important for controlling fermentation in bread doughs and in preventing the growth of undesirable wild yeasts. For these reasons, the quantity of salt in a formula must be carefully controlled. Chocolate and Cocoa Chocolate and cocoa are derived from cocoa or cacao beans. When the beans are roasted and ground, the resulting product is called chocolate liquor, which contains a white or yellowish fat called cocoa butter. Cocoa is the dry powder that remains after part of the cocoa butter is removed from chocolate liquor. Dutch process cocoa is processed with an alkali. It is slightly darker, smoother in flavor, and more easily dissolved in liquids than regular cocoa. Bitter or unsweetened chocolate is straight chocolate liquor. In some less expensive brands, some of the cocoa butter may be replaced by another fat. Sweet chocolate is bitter chocolate with the addition of sugar in varying amounts. If the percentage of sugar is low, it is sometimes called semisweet or bittersweet. Milk chocolate is sweet chocolate with the addition of milk solids. It is used primarily in candy making. (None of the recipes in this book call for milk chocolate.) Cocoa and chocolate are high in starch. When cocoa is added to a cake formula, it is sometimes considered part of the flour proportion for this reason. Spices Spices are discussed in detail in Chapter 4. The most important spices in the bakeshop are cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, cloves, ginger, caraway, cardamom, allspice, anise, and poppy seed. Because spices are used in small quantities, it is not much more expensive to use the best quality, and the results are superior. Spices should be measured by weight unless the quantity is so small that measuring spoons are necessary. Extracts and Emulsions Extracts are flavorful oils and other substances dissolved in alcohol. These include vanilla, lemon, and bitter almond. Emulsions are flavorful oils mixed with water with the aid of emulsifiers such as vegetable gums. Lemon and orange are the most frequently used emulsions. The flavorings of extracts and emulsions may be natural or artificial. Natural flavorings give the best results, but they are often expensive. Artificial flavorings must be used in moderation to avoid creating strong or undesirable flavors in baked items. 934 CHAPTER 29 BAKESHOP PRODUCTION: BASIC PRINCIPLES AND INGREDIENTS KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What are the two main liquids used to make doughs and batters? How do liquids affect gluten development? • What eight functions do eggs have in baked goods? • What three types of yeast are used in the bakeshop? How does yeast make bread rise? • What is the difference between baking soda and baking powder?
QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 935 TERMS FOR REVIEW gluten strong flour weak flour shortening staling bread flour cake flour pastry flour whole wheat flour pumpernickel rye blend regular shortening emulsified shortening sucrose confectioners’ sugar leavening fermentation fresh yeast active dry yeast instant dry yeast chemical leavener single- and double-acting baking powders creaming foaming extract emulsion QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. Below are ingredients for a white cake. The weight of the flour is given, and the proportions of other ingredients are indicated by percentages. Calculate the weights required for each. Cake flour 3 lb or 1500 g (100%) Baking powder 4% Shortening 50% Sugar 100% Salt 1% Milk 75% Egg whites 33% Vanilla 2% 2. Discuss four factors that affect the development of gluten in doughs and batters. 3. Why do some cakes fall if they are removed from the oven too soon? 4. Which kind of cake would you expect to have better keeping qualities—a sponge cake, which is low in fat, or a high-ratio cake? 5. Why is white wheat flour used in rye breads? in whole wheat breads? Some bakeries in Europe produce a kind of pumpernickel bread with 100 percent rye flour. What would you expect its texture to be like? 6. Describe how to distinguish among bread, pastry, and cake flours by touch and sight. 7. What is the difference between regular and emulsified shortenings? 8. Shortbread is a type of cookie made with flour, butter, and sugar, but no liquid. What would you expect its texture to be like? Why?
OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 30 Assorted yeast breads.
ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIEI n its simplest form, bread is nothing more than a dough of flour and water, leavened by yeast and baked. In fact, some hard-crusted French breads contain only these ingredients, plus salt. Other kinds of bread contain additional ingredients, including sugar, shortening, milk, eggs, and flavorings. But flour, water, and yeast are still the basic building blocks of all breads. Yet for something that seems so simple, bread can be one of the most exacting and complex products to make. Success in bread making depends largely on your understanding of two basic principles: gluten development, which we discussed in the previous chapter, and yeast fermentation, which we have touched on and which we study in greater detail here. This chapter focuses on the production of many kinds of yeast products, including breads, dinner rolls, sweet rolls, Danish pastry, and croissants. Yeast Products 937 After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Prepare breads and dinner rolls. 2. Prepare sweet dough products. 3. Prepare Danish pastry and croissants.
Understanding Yeast Products Yeast Product Types Although all yeast doughs are essentially made according to the same basic principles, it is useful to divide yeast products into categories such as the following. Regular Yeast Dough Products LEAN DOUGH PRODUCTS A lean dough is one that is low in fat and sugar. • Hard-crusted breads and rolls, including French and Italian breads, kaiser rolls and other hard rolls, and pizza. These are the leanest of all bread products. • Other white breads and dinner rolls. These have a higher fat and sugar content and, sometimes, also contain eggs and milk solids. Because they are slightly richer, they generally have soft crusts. • Whole-grain breads. Whole wheat and rye breads are the most common. Many varieties of rye bread are produced with light or dark flours or with pumpernickel flour and various flavorings, especially molasses and caraway seeds. RICH DOUGH PRODUCTS There is no exact dividing line between rich and lean doughs but, in general, rich doughs contain higher proportions of fat, sugar, and, sometimes, eggs. • Nonsweet breads and rolls, including rich dinner rolls and brioche. These have a high fat content but low enough sugar to be served as dinner breads. Brioche dough is especially rich, made with a high proportion of butter and eggs. • Sweet rolls, including coffee cakes and many breakfast and tea rolls. These have high fat and sugar and, often, eggs. They are usually made with a sweet filling or topping. Rolled-In Yeast Dough Products Rolled-in doughs, also called laminated doughs, are those in which a fat is incorporated into the dough in many layers by means of a rolling and folding procedure. The alternating layers of fat and dough give the baked product a flaky texture. • Nonsweet rolled-in doughs: croissants. • Sweet rolled-in doughs: Danish pastry. Mixing Methods Mixing yeast doughs has three main purposes: 1. To combine all ingredients into a uniform, smooth dough. 2. To distribute the yeast evenly throughout the dough. 3. To develop gluten. Three principal mixing methods are used for yeast doughs: the straight dough method, the modified straight dough method, and the sponge method. 938 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS
Straight Dough Method There is only one step in this method, as practiced by many bakers. Some bakers dissolve the compressed yeast in some of the water before adding the remaining ingredients. Others omit this step. Active dry yeast, on the other hand, must be rehydrated before mixing. The advantage of softening the yeast in water is that it helps ensure that the yeast is evenly distributed in the dough. Modified Straight Dough Method for Rich Doughs For rich sweet doughs, the method is modified to ensure even distribution of the fat and sugar. Sponge Method Sponge doughs are prepared in two stages. Steps in Yeast Dough Production The production of yeast breads involves 12 basic steps. These steps are applied to yeast products in general, with variations depending on the particular product. 1. Scaling ingredients 7. Benching 2. Mixing 8. Makeup and panning 3. Bulk fermentation 9. Proofing 4. Folding or punching 10. Baking 5. Scaling or portioning of dough 11. Cooling 6. Rounding 12. Storing As you can see, mixing of ingredients into a dough is only one part of a complex procedure. UNDERSTANDING YEAST PRODUCTS 939 Procedure: Straight Dough Mixing Method If desired, rehydrate yeast in all or part of the water. Combine all ingredients in the mixing bowl and mix. Procedure: Modified Straight Dough Method 1. Soften the yeast in part of the water. 2. Combine the fat, sugar, salt, milk solids, and flavorings. Mix until well combined, but do not whip until light. 3. Add the eggs gradually, as fast as they are absorbed. 4. Add the liquid and mix briefly. 5. Add the flour and yeast. Mix into a smooth dough. Procedure: Sponge Method 1. Combine the liquid (or part of the liquid), the yeast, and part of the flour (and, sometimes, part of the sugar). Mix into a thick batter or soft dough. Let ferment until double in bulk. 2. Punch down and add the rest of the flour and remaining ingredients. Mix to a uniform, smooth dough. KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What are the steps in the straight dough method? • What are the steps in the modified straight dough method? • What are the steps in the sponge method?
Scaling Ingredients All ingredients must be weighed accurately. The only items that may be measured by volume are water, milk, and eggs, which may be scaled at 1 pint per pound (1 L per kg). Mixing Use the dough arm attachment when using a vertical mixer. Mix for the specified time. The first two purposes of mixing—combining the ingredients into a dough and distributing the yeast—are accomplished during the first part of mixing. The remaining time is necessary to develop the gluten. Overmixed and undermixed doughs have poor volume and texture. (Review “Gluten Development,” p. 923.) It is necessary for you to learn to tell by sight and feel when a dough is thoroughly mixed. This can be done only through experience and with the guidance of your instructor. A properly developed dough feels smooth and elastic. A lean dough should not be sticky. Sometimes it is necessary to add a little more flour if the dough hasn’t lost its stickiness after most of the mixing time has passed. Rich doughs are generally undermixed slightly because greater tenderness is desired for these products. Note: Mixing speeds and times given in bread formulas in this book are guidelines only. Small mixers might be damaged if they are run at too high a speed with a stiff dough. In such cases, use a lower speed and extend the mixing time as necessary. Depending on the mixer, developing a dough at first or slow speed requires about twice as much mixing time as at second speed. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Bulk Fermentation Fermentation is the process by which yeast acts on the sugars and starches in the dough to produce carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. Gluten becomes smoother and more elastic during fermentation. An underfermented dough does not develop proper volume, and the texture will be coarse. A dough that ferments too long or at too high a temperature becomes sticky, hard to work, and slightly sour. An underfermented dough is called a young dough. An overfermented dough is called an old dough. Doughs with weak gluten, such as rye doughs and rich doughs, are usually underfermented or “taken to the bench young.” Folding or Punching Punching is not hitting the dough with your fist. It is a method of deflating the dough that expels carbon dioxide, redistributes the yeast for further growth, relaxes the gluten, and equalizes the temperature throughout the dough. A second fermentation and punching may or may not take place, depending on the product. 940 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Procedure for Fermenting Yeast Doughs 1. Place the dough in a lightly oiled container and oil the surface to prevent a crust from forming. (This may not be necessary if humidity is high—about 75 percent.) 2. Cover the container lightly and let the dough rise at a temperature of about 80°F (27°C). 3. Fermentation is complete when the dough has doubled in volume. If fermentation is complete, a dent will remain after the hand is pressed into the top of the dough. Procedure for Punching Yeast Doughs Pull up the dough on all sides, fold over the center, and press down. Then turn the dough upside down in the bowl.
Scaling or Portioning of Dough Using a baker’s scale, divide the dough into pieces of uniform weight, according to the product being made. During scaling, allowance is made for weight loss due to evaporation of moisture in the oven. This weight loss is 10 to 13 percent of the weight of the dough. Allow an extra 11 ⁄2 to 2 ounces of dough for each 1 pound of baked bread, or 50 to 65 grams per 500 grams baked bread. Rounding After scaling, the pieces of dough are shaped into smooth, round balls. This procedure forms a kind of skin by stretching the gluten on the outside of the dough into a smooth layer. Rounding simplifies later shaping of the dough and also helps retain gases produced by the yeast. Your instructor will demonstrate rounding techniques. Machines are also available that divide and round portions of dough automatically. Figure 30.1 illustrates a piece of dough being rounded by hand. Benching Rounded portions of dough are allowed to rest on the bench 10 to 15 minutes. This relaxes the gluten to make shaping the dough easier. Also, fermentation continues during this time. Makeup and Panning The dough is shaped into loaves or rolls and placed in pans or on baking sheets. For all loaves and rolls, the seam must be centered on the bottom to avoid splitting during baking. Breads and rolls take a great many forms. A variety of shapes and techniques is presented in the next section. Proofing Proofing is a continuation of the process of yeast fermentation, which increases the volume of the shaped dough. Bakers use different terms to distinguish between fermentation of the mixed dough and proofing of the made-up product before baking. Proofing temperatures are generally higher than fermentation temperatures. If a proof box is not available, come as close to these conditions as you can by covering the products to retain moisture and setting them in a warm place. Underproofing results in poor volume and dense texture. Overproofing results in coarse texture and some loss of flavor. Rich doughs are slightly underproofed because their weaker gluten structure will not withstand much stretching. Baking As you recall from the previous chapter, many changes take place in a dough during baking. The most important changes are these: 1. Oven spring, which is the rapid rising in the oven due to production and expansion of trapped gases as a result of the oven heat. The yeast is very active at first but is killed when the temperature inside the dough reaches 140°F (60°C). UNDERSTANDING YEAST PRODUCTS 941 Procedure for Proofing Yeast Dough Products Place the panned products in a proof box at 80° to 85°F (27° to 30°C) and 70 to 80 percent humidity, as indicated in the formula. Proof until double in bulk. Figure 30.1 To round a piece of dough, roll it on the bench with the palm of your hand. As you rotate the dough, use the edge of your hand to pinch the dough against the bench. This movement stretches the surface of the dough so it is completely smooth except for a seam at the bottom where it was pinched together.
2. Coagulation of proteins and gelatinization of starches. In other words, the product becomes firm and holds its shape. 3. Formation and browning of the crust. Load the ovens carefully, as proofed doughs are fragile until they become set by baking. Oven temperatures must be adjusted for the product being baked. Rolls spaced apart are baked at a higher temperature than large loaves so they become browned in the short time it takes to bake them. In general, lean breads such as those popular in North America are baked at 400° to 425°F (200° to 220°C), while some French breads and rolls are baked at 425° to 475°F (220° to 245°C). Rich doughs and sweet doughs are baked at a lower temperature, 350° to 400°F (175° to 200°C), because their fat, sugar, and milk content makes the crust brown faster. Hard-crusted breads are baked with steam injected into the oven during the first part of the baking period. This aids the formation of a thin, crisp crust. Rye breads also benefit from baking with steam for the first 10 minutes. A break on the side of the loaf is caused by continued rising after the crust is formed. To allow for this final expansion, hard-crusted breads are cut or scored before baking by making shallow slashes on the top of the loaf with a sharp knife or razor. Small rolls bake completely without a break, so they are usually not scored. Baking times vary considerably, depending on the product. A golden-brown crust color is the normal indication of doneness. Loaves that are done sound hollow when thumped. Cooling After baking, bread must be removed from pans and cooled rapidly on racks to allow the escape of excess moisture and alcohol created during fermentation. Rolls baked apart from each other on sheets may be left on them because they will get adequate air circulation. If soft crusts are desired, breads may be brushed with melted shortening before cooling. Do not cool in a draft, or crusts may crack. Storing Breads to be served within 8 hours may be left on racks. For longer storage, wrap cooled breads in moistureproof bags to retard staling. Bread must be thoroughly cooled before wrapping, or moisture will collect inside the bags. Wrapping and freezing maintains quality for longer periods. Refrigeration, on the other hand, increases staling. Hard-crusted breads should not be wrapped (unless frozen), or the crusts will soften. Because of the complexity of bread production, many things can go wrong. To remedy common bread faults, check Table 30.1 for possible causes and correct your procedures. 942 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Table 30.1 Bread Faults and Their Causes Fault Causes Shape Poor volume Too much salt Too little yeast Weak flour Under- or overmixing Improper fermentation or proofing Oven too hot Too much volume Too little salt Too much yeast Too much dough scaled Overproofing
UNDERSTANDING YEAST PRODUCTS 943 Fault Causes Shape (continued) Poor shape Too much liquid Improper molding or makeup Improper proofing Too much steam in oven Split or burst crust Overmixing Underfermentation Improper molding—seam not on bottom Oven too hot Not enough steam in oven Texture and crumb Too dense or close-grained Too little yeast Underproofing Too much salt Too little liquid Too coarse or open Too much yeast Too much liquid Incorrect mixing time Improper fermentation Overproofing Pan too large Streaked crumb Improper mixing procedure Poor molding or makeup techniques Too much flour used for dusting Poor texture or crumbly Fermentation time too long or too short Overproofing Baking temperature too low Flour too weak Too little salt Gray crumb Fermentation time too long or temperature too high Crust Too dark Too much sugar or milk Underfermentation (young dough) Oven temperature too high Baking time too long Insufficient steam at beginning of baking Too pale Too little sugar or milk Overfermentation (old dough) Overproofing Oven temperature too low Baking time too short Too much steam in oven Too thick Too little sugar or fat Overfermentation (old dough) Baked too long and/or at too low a temperature Too little steam Blisters on crust Too much liquid Improper fermentation Improper shaping of loaves Flavor Flat taste Too little salt Poor flavor Inferior, spoiled, or rancid ingredients Poor bakeshop sanitation Under- or overfermentation
Dough Formulas and Techniques Bread and Roll Formulas The basic yeast dough mixing and baking methods discussed earlier in this chapter apply to the following formulas. Therefore, the methods are not repeated in detail for each formula. The basic procedures are indicated, and you should refer to the first part of this chapter if you need to refresh your memory for details. Makeup techniques for loaves, rolls, and other items are described and illustrated after this recipe section. 944 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Hard Rolls INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 10 oz 740 g 59 % Yeast, fresh 1.5 oz 45 g 3.5 % Bread flour 2 lb 12 oz 1250 g 100 % Salt 1 oz 30 g 2.25 % Sugar 1 oz 30 g 2.25 % Shortening 1 oz 30 g 2.25 % Egg whites 1 oz 30 g 2.25 % Yield: 4 lb 11 oz 2155 g 171 % Per 1 roll: Calories, 90; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 1 g (10% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 17 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 200 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. 10 minutes, 2nd speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: About 1 hour at 80°F (27°C). Scaling and makeup: Rolls—1 lb (500 g) per dozen. French-type loaf—18 oz (550 g) per loaf. See makeup technique after recipe section. Dock after proofing. Brush with water. Baking: 425°F (220°C). Steam for first 10 minutes. Soft Rolls INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 9 oz 750 g 60 % Yeast, fresh 1.5 oz 44 g 3.5 % Bread flour 2 lb 10 oz 1250 g 100 % Salt 0.8 oz 25 g 2 % Sugar 4 oz 125 g 9.5 % Nonfat milk powder 2 oz 60 g 4.75 % Shortening 2 oz 60 g 4.75 % Butter or margarine 2 oz 60 g 4.75 % Yield: 4 lb 15 oz 2374 g 189 % Per 1 roll: Calories, 120; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 2.5 g (20% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 20 g; Fiber, 0.5 g; Sodium, 190 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. 10–12 minutes at 2nd speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: 11 ⁄2 hours at 80°F (27°C). Scaling and makeup: 16–20 oz (450–600 g) per dozen rolls. See makeup techniques after recipe section. Baking: 400°F (200°C).
DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 945 French Bread INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 12 oz 875 g 58 % Yeast, fresh 1.5 oz 45 g 3 % Bread flour 3 lb 1500 g 100 % Salt 1 oz 30 g 2 % Yield: 4 lb 14 oz 2450 g 163 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 60; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 0.5 g (7% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 13 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 140 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. Dissolve yeast in water before adding flour and salt. 3 minutes at 2nd speed; rest 2 minutes; 3 minutes more at 2nd speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: 11 ⁄2 hours at 80°F (27°C). Punch down. 1 hour at 80°F (27°C). Scaling and makeup: French loaves—12 oz (350 g). Round loaves—18 oz (550 g). Rolls—16–20 oz (450–600 g) per dozen. See makeup techniques after recipe section. Baking: 400°F (200°C). Steam for first 10 minutes. White Pan Bread INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 % Yeast, fresh 1.5 oz 45 g 3.75 % Bread flour 2 lb 8 oz 1250 g 100 % Salt 1 oz 30 g 2.5 % Sugar 1.5 oz 45 g 3.75 % Nonfat milk powder 2 oz 60 g 5 % Shortening 1.5 oz 45 g 3.75 % Yield: 4 lb 7 oz 2225 g 178 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 70; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 1 g (13% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 13 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 160 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. 10 minutes at 2nd speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: 1 hour at 80°F (27°C). Makeup: Pan loaves. See makeup techniques after recipe section. Baking: 400°F (200°C). VARIATION Whole Wheat Bread Prepare basic White Pan Bread using Bread flour 1 lb 500 g 40 % Whole wheat flour 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 %
946 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Rye Bread and Rolls INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 % Yeast, fresh 1.5 oz 45 g 3.75 % Rye flour 1 lb 500 g 40 % Bread flour 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 % Salt 1 oz 30 g 2.5 % Shortening 1 oz 30 g 2.5 % Molasses 1 oz 30 g 2.5 % Caraway seeds 0.5 oz 15 g 1.25 % Yield: 4 lb 4 oz 2150 g 172 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 60; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 1 g (14% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 12 g; Fiber, 2 g; Sodium, 160 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. 5–6 minutes at 2nd speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: 1 hour at 80°F (27°C). Scaling and makeup: 1 lb (500 g) per pan loaf. 1 lb (500 g) per dozen rolls. See makeup techniques after recipe section. Baking: 400°F (200°C). Steam for first 10 minutes. Focaccia INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Water 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 % Yeast, fresh 1 oz 35 g 2.75 % Bread flour 2 lb 8 oz 1250 g 100 % Salt 0.7 oz (31 ⁄2 tsp) 20 g 1.75 % Sugar 0.2 oz (11 ⁄4 tsp) 6 g 0.5 % Olive oil 2 oz 60 g 5 % Yield: 4 lb 3 oz 2121 g 170 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 70; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 1 g (13% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 12 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 115 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. 8 minutes at 1st speed (see Note, p. 940). Fermentation: 11 ⁄2 hours at 80°F (27°C) or 2 hours at 75°F (24°C). Makeup: Oil sheet pans with olive oil. Roll out dough to about 3 ⁄4 in. (2 cm) thick and place in pans (see Figure 30.2). Brush tops generously with olive oil. After proofing, press dimples into the dough at approximately 3-in. (8-cm) intervals. Baking: 425°F (220°C). Steam for first 10 minutes. VARIATIONS Rosemary Focaccia After pressing in the dimples, sprinkle the top with rosemary (preferably fresh) and coarse salt. Olive Focaccia Mix 30% (12 oz/375 g) chopped oil-cured black olives into the dough. Figure 30.2 Focaccia. (a) Roll and stretch the dough into a rectangle large enough to fill the pan. (b) Place the dough in the pan. Top with olive oil. (c) With the fingertips, poke holes heavily at regular intervals. (d) Top with the desired topping, such as fresh herbs and coarse salt.
DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 947 Brioche INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Milk 8 oz 250 g 20 % Yeast, fresh 2 oz 60 g 5 % Bread flour 8 oz 250 g 20 % Eggs 1 lb 4 oz 625 g 50 % Bread flour 2 lb 1000 g 80 % Sugar 2 oz 60 g 5 % Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 1.25 % Butter, softened 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 60 % Yield: 6 lb 3010 g 241 % Per 1 roll: Calories, 160; Protein, 4 g; Fat, 10 g (56% cal.); Cholesterol, 60 mg; Carbohydrates, 14 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 190 mg. VARIATION To make the dough less sticky and less difficult to handle, reduce the butter to 35–50% (14–20 oz/450–625 g). This adjustment also reduces cost. However, the brioche will not be as rich and delicate. Mixing: Sponge method: 1. Scald milk and cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast. Add flour and mix to make a sponge. Let rise until double. 2. Gradually mix in eggs and then dry ingredients (using the paddle attachment) to make a soft dough. 3. Beat in butter, a little at a time, until completely absorbed and dough is smooth. Dough will be very soft and sticky. Fermentation: Cover with plastic film and place in retarder overnight. Makeup: 11 ⁄2 oz (50 g) per roll. See makeup techniques after recipe section. Dough is very soft and is easiest to make up when chilled. Egg-wash after proofing. Baking: 400°F (200°C). Sweet Roll Dough INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Milk 1 lb 500 g 40 % Yeast, fresh 3 oz 100 g 7.5 % Butter/margarine/ 8 oz 250 g 20 % shortening (see Note) Sugar 8 oz 250 g 20 % Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 1.25 % Eggs 6 oz 175 g 15 % Bread flour 2 lb 1000 g 80 % Cake flour 8 oz 250 g 20 % Yield: 5 lb 1 oz 2540 g 203 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 90; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 3 g (31% cal.): Cholesterol, 15 mg; Carbohydrates, 13 g; Fiber, 0.5 g; Sodium, 90 mg. Note: Any of the fats listed may be used alone or in combination. Mixing: Modified straight dough method: 1. Scald milk. Cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in milk. 2. Mix fat, sugar, and salt until smooth, using paddle. Beat in eggs. 3. Add liquid and flour. With dough arm, mix 4 minutes at 2nd speed. Fermentation: 11 ⁄2 hours at 80°F (27°C). Makeup: See makeup techniques after recipe section. Baking: 375°F (190°C). VARIATION Raised Doughnuts Prepare basic sweet roll dough, but reduce the fat and sugar by half. Mace, nutmeg, or other spices may be added. Scaling: 11 ⁄2 oz (50 g) each. Give full proof. Frying: 360°F (182°C). Drain. Roll in cinnamon sugar or 6X sugar when cool.
Rolled-In Doughs: Danish Pastry and Croissants Rolled-in or laminated doughs contain many layers of fat sandwiched between layers of dough. These layers create the flakiness you are familiar with in Danish pastry. Two basic kinds of rolled-in yeast doughs are made in the bakeshop: • Danish pastry • Croissants Rolled-in doughs are mixed only slightly because the rolling-in procedure continues to develop the gluten. Butter is the preferred fat for flavor and the melt-in-the-mouth quality of rolled-in doughs. Specially formulated shortenings are available when lower cost and greater ease of handling are more important considerations. 948 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS VIENNOISERIE Viennoiserie (vee en wahz ree), or Viennese pastry, is the general term given to sweet yeast-raised dough goods, both laminated and non-laminated. Brioche, Danish, and croissants are classic examples of viennoiserie. Rolling-In Procedure for Danish and Croissant Dough The rolling-in procedure has two parts. 1. Enclosing the fat in the dough. In the method illustrated in Figure 30.3, the fat is spotted on two-thirds of the dough and the dough is folded in thirds like a business letter. This results in five layers: three layers of dough and two layers of fat. 2. Rolling out and folding the dough to increase the number of layers. In these doughs, we use a simple fold, or three-fold, which means we fold the dough in thirds. Each complete rolling and folding step is called a turn. We give the dough three turns, creating over 100 layers of dough and fat. Figure 30.3 Rolling-in procedure for Danish and croissant dough. (a, b) Roll the dough into a rectangle about 3 times as long as it is wide and 1 ⁄2 to 3 ⁄4 in. (1 to 2 cm) thick. Smear the butter over two-thirds of the length of the dough, leaving a margin at the edges. (e) Place the dough on the bench at right angles to its position in step (d). Take this step before each rolling-out of the dough so the gluten is stretched in all directions, not just lengthwise. Roll the dough into a rectangle. (f) Fold again into thirds by first folding the top third over the center. Be sure to brush off excess dusting flour from between the folds. (g) Fold over the remaining third. You have now completed the first turn or fold. Incorporating the butter doesn’t count as a turn. Press one finger in the dough near the end to make one indentation. This indicates “1 turn” to anyone who may have to take up where you left off, or to you if you have several batches going. Refrigerate the dough 20 to 30 minutes to relax the gluten. Repeat the above rolling and folding procedures for a second and third turn, resting the dough between turns. Mark the number of turns in the dough with two or three fingers. After the third turn, rest the dough in the retarder several hours or overnight. Cover it with plastic film to prevent crusting. The dough is then ready for makeup. (c) Fold the unbuttered third over the center third. (d) Fold the remaining third on top. Rest the dough in the retarder (under refrigeration) 20 to 30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.
In Chapter 31, you will learn an even more complex rolling-in procedure used for puff pastry, which is leavened only by steam, not by yeast. This procedure produces over 1,000 layers! DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 949 KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What are the 12 steps in yeast dough production? • What are the steps in the procedure for fermenting yeast doughs? • What are the steps in the rolling-in procedure for Danish and croissant doughs? Danish Pastry INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Milk 1 lb 400 g 40 % Yeast, fresh 2.5 oz 65 g 6.25 % Butter 5 oz 125 g 12.5 % Sugar 6 oz 150 g 15 % Salt 0.8 oz 20 g 2 % Cardamom 1 tsp 2 g (5 mL) 0.2 % Eggs 8 oz 200 g 20 % Egg yolks 2 oz 50 g 5 % Bread flour 2 lb 800 g 80 % Cake flour 8 oz 200 g 20 % Butter 1 lb 4 oz 500 g 50 % Yield: 6 lb 4 oz 2507 g 251 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 110; Protein, 2 g: Fat, 6 g (53% cal.); Cholesterol, 35 mg; Carbohydrates, 10 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 120 mg. Mixing: Modified straight dough method: 1. Scald milk. Cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in milk. 2. Mix butter, sugar, salt, and spice until smooth, using paddle. Beat in eggs and yolks. 3. Add liquid (from step 1) and flour. With dough arm, mix 3–4 minutes on 2nd speed. 4. Rest in retarder 20–30 minutes. 5. Roll in remaining butter and give 3 three-folds, as shown in Figure 30.3. Makeup: See makeup techniques after recipe section. Proofing: 90°F (32°C) with little steam. Egg-wash after proofing. Baking: 375°F (190°C). Croissants INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Milk 1 lb 450 g 57 % Yeast, fresh 1 oz 30 g 4 % Sugar 1 oz 30 g 4 % Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 2 % Butter, soft 3 oz 80 g 10 % Bread flour 1 lb 12 oz 800 g 100 % Butter 1 lb 450 g 57 % Yield: 4 lb 1 oz 1855 g 234 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 110; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 7 g (57% cal.); Cholesterol, 20 mg; Carbohydrates, 10 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 160 mg. Mixing: Straight dough method. Scald milk, cool to lukewarm, and dissolve yeast. Add remaining ingredients except last 1 lb (450 g) butter. Mix into a smooth dough. Do not overmix. Fermentation: 1 hour at 80°F (27°C). Punch down, spread out on flat pan, and rest in retarder 30 minutes. Roll in last amount of butter and give 3 three-folds (see Figure 30.3). Rest in retarder overnight. Makeup: See Figure 30.19 on page 957. Proofing: 80°F (27°C). Egg-wash after proofing. Baking: 400°F (200°C).
Fillings and Toppings for Sweet Dough Products and Danish 950 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Cinnamon Sugar YIELD: ABOUT 1 LB (500 G) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 1 lb 500 g Sugar 0.5 oz 15 g Cinnamon Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 110; Protein, 0 g; Fat, 0 g (0% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 0 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 0 mg. Stir together thoroughly. Streusel or Crumb Topping YIELD: 2 LB (1 KG) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 8 oz 250 g Butter and/or shortening 5 oz 150 g Granulated sugar 4 oz 120 g Brown sugar 1 ⁄2–1 tsp 2–5 mL Cinnamon or mace 1 ⁄2 tsp 2 mL Salt 1 lb 500 g Pastry flour Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 130; Protein, 1 g; Fat, 6 g (40% cal.); Cholesterol, 15 mg; Carbohydrates, 19 g; Fiber, 2 g; Sodium, 85 mg. Rub all ingredients together until crumbly. VARIATION Nut Streusel Add 4 oz (125 g) finely chopped nuts to basic mixture. Clear Glaze for Coffee Cakes and Danish YIELD: 2 LB (1 KG) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 1 cup 250 mL Water 1 lb 500 g Light corn syrup 8 oz 250 g Granulated sugar Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 70; Protein, 0 g; Fat, 0 g (0% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 18 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 15 mg. 1. Mix together and bring to a boil. Stir to ensure the sugar is completely dissolved. 2. Brush on while hot.
DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 951 Date, Prune, or Apricot Filling YIELD: 3 LB (1.5 KG) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 2 lb 1 kg Dates, prunes (pitted), or dried apricots 6 oz 200 g Sugar 1 pt 500 mL Water Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 65; Protein, 0 g; Fat, 0 g (0% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 17 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 0 mg. 1. Chop dried fruit very fine, or pass through a grinder. 2. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Simmer and stir until thick and smooth, about 10 minutes. 3. Cool before using. Almond Filling YIELD: 3 LB (1500 G) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 1 lb 500 g Almond paste 1 lb 500 g Sugar 8 oz 250 g Butter and/or shortening 4 oz 125 g Pastry or cake flour 4 oz 125 g Eggs Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 130; Protein, 1 g; Fat, 7 g (48% cal.); Cholesterol, 20 mg; Carbohydrates, 16 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 45 mg. 1. With paddle attachment, mix almond paste and sugar at low speed until evenly mixed. 2. Mix in fat and flour until smooth. 3. Beat in eggs, a little at a time, until smooth. Cheese Filling YIELD: APPROXIMATELY 2 LB 3 OZ (1125 G) U.S. METRIC INGREDIENTS PROCEDURE 1 lb 500 g Baker’s cheese 5 oz 150 g Sugar 0.12 oz (5 ⁄8 tsp) 3 mL Salt 3 oz 100 g Eggs 3 oz 100 g Butter and/or shortening, soft 11 ⁄2 tsp 7 mL Vanilla 1.5 oz 50 g Cake flour 3–5 oz 100–150 g Milk 4 oz 125 g Raisins (optional) Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 60; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 2.5 g (38% cal.); Cholesterol, 20 mg; Carbohydrates, 6 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 70 mg. 1. Using the paddle attachment, cream the cheese, sugar, and salt until smooth. 2. Add the eggs, butter, and vanilla. Blend in. 3. Add the cake flour. Blend until just absorbed. 4. Add the milk, a little at a time, adding just enough to bring the mixture to a smooth, spreadable consistency. 5. Stir in the raisins, if desired.
Makeup Techniques The object of yeast dough makeup techniques is to shape the dough into rolls or loaves that bake properly and have an attractive appearance. When you shape a roll or loaf correctly, you stretch the gluten strands on the surface into a kind of smooth skin. This tight gluten surface holds the item in shape. This is especially important for loaves and rolls that are baked freestanding, not in pans. Units that are not made up correctly develop irregular shapes and splits and may flatten out on the pan. Following are a few of the many makeup techniques for yeast doughs. Hard Rolls and Breads ROUND ROLLS 1. Scale the dough as indicated in the recipes, usually 1 pound (450 g) per dozen. 2. Round each unit as shown in Figure 30.4. 3. Place rolls 2 inches (5 cm) apart on sheet pans sprinkled with cornmeal. ROUND LOAVES 1. Flatten the rounded, benched dough into a circle. Fold the four sides over the center, then round again. 2. Place on sheet pans sprinkled with cornmeal. CLUB ROLLS 1. Make up as shown in Figure 30.5. 2. Place 2 inches (5 cm) apart on sheet pans sprinkled with cornmeal. CRESCENT ROLLS 1. Scale dough into 20-ounce (600-g) units. 2. After rounding and benching, flatten the dough and roll it out into a circle 12 inches (30 cm) across. 3. With a pastry wheel, cut the dough circle into 12 equal wedges or triangles. (Alternative method: For large quantities of dough, roll it out into a rectangle and cut like croissant dough. See Figure 30.19 on p. 957.) 4. Roll the triangles into crescents using the same technique as for croissants (see Figure 30.19 on p. 957). Note: If using soft roll dough, brush the dough with butter before cutting it into triangles. Do not use any fat. 952 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Figure 30.4 Rounding small rolls. (a) Holding the palm of the hand fairly flat, roll the dough in a tight circle on the workbench. Do not use too much flour for dusting, as the dough must stick to the bench a little for the technique to work. (b) As the ball of dough takes on a round shape, gradually cup your hand. (c) The finished ball of dough should have a smooth surface, except for a slight pucker on the bottom. Figure 30.5 Making club rolls. (a) Flatten the piece of dough roughly into a rectangle. (b) Begin to roll the dough by folding over the back edge of the rectangle. Press the seam firmly with your fingertips. (c) Continue to roll the dough, always pressing the seam firmly after each turn. As you roll the dough, the front edge will appear to shrink. Stretch the front corners as shown by the arrows to keep the width uniform. (d) When the roll is finished, seal the seam well so you have a tight roll. (e) Dock the proofed roll with a single slash to give the baked roll this appearance.
FRENCH-TYPE LOAVES 1. Scale the dough into units weighing 12 to 18 ounces (350 to 500 g). 2. Make up as shown in Figure 30.6. Soft Roll Doughs TIED OR KNOTTED ROLLS 1. Scale dough to 16 to 20 ounces (450 to 600 g) per dozen. 2. With the palm of the hand, roll each unit on the workbench into a strip or rope of dough. 3. Tie rolls as shown: Single-knot rolls: Figure 30.7 Double-knot rolls: Figure 30.8 Braided rolls: Figure 30.9 Figure-eight rolls: Figure 30.10 4. Place 2 inches (5 cm) apart on greased baking sheets. 5. Egg-wash after proofing. PAN ROLLS 1. Scale dough to 16 to 20 ounces (450 to 600 g) per dozen. 2. Make up as for round hard rolls. DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 953 Figure 30.6 Making French-type loaves. (a) Flatten the rounded, relaxed dough with your hands or with a rolling pin. (b) Stretch the oval with the hands to lengthen it. (c) Roll the dough tightly. (d) Seal the seam well. If a longer, thinner loaf is required, relax the rolled units again for a few minutes. Flatten them with your palms and stretch the dough lightly to increase its length. Once again, roll tightly and seal the seam. Roll the loaf on the bench under your palms to make it even and to stretch it to the desired shape and length. (e) Place the dough seam-side down on pans dusted with cornmeal. Proofing the loaves on special trough-shaped pans maintains their shape. Proof. Wash with water. Slash with diagonal cuts or with one lengthwise cut; this can be done before or after proofing. Figure 30.7 Tying a single-knot roll Figure 30.8 Tying a doubleknot roll Figure 30.9 Tying a braided roll Figure 30.10 Tying a figureeight roll
3. Place on greased pans 1 ⁄2 inch (1 cm) apart. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS 1. Scale dough to 16 to 20 ounces (450 to 600 g) per dozen. 2. Make up as shown in Figure 30.11. 3. Place on greased baking sheet 1 ⁄2 inch (1 cm) apart. CLOVERLEAF ROLLS 1. Scale dough to 16 to 20 ounces (450 to 600 g) per dozen. 2. Make up and pan as shown in Figure 30.12. BUTTERFLAKE ROLLS Make up as shown in Figure 30.13. Pan Loaves Shaping dough into loaves to be baked in loaf pans is illustrated in Figure 30.14 954 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS Figure 30.11 Parker House rolls. (a) Round the scaled piece of dough. (b) Flatten the center of the dough with a thin rolling pin as shown. (c) Fold the dough over and press down on the folded edge to make a crease. (d) The baked roll has this shape. Figure 30.12 Cloverleaf rolls. (a) Divide each piece of dough into 3 equal parts. Shape into balls. Place 3 balls in the bottom of each greased muffin tin. (b) The baked roll has this appearance. Figure 30.13 Butterflake rolls. (a) Roll the dough into a thin rectangle. Brush with melted butter. Cut into strips 1 in. (2.5 cm) wide. (b) Stack 6 strips. Cut into pieces 11 ⁄2 in. (3.5 cm) long. (c) Place the pieces on end in greased muffin tins. Proof. (d) The baked rolls have this appearance. Figure 30.14 Pan loaves. (a) Start with the rounded, benched dough. Flatten it with the palms of the hands. (b) Stretch it into a long rectangle. (c, d) Fold into thirds. (e) Roll the dough into a tight roll of the same length as the pan it is to be baked in. Seal the seam well and place the dough seam side down in the greased pan.
Brioche Brioche dough may be made into many shapes. The traditional shape is shown in Figure 30.15. Sweet Dough Products Note: Many sweet dough products may be glazed with Clear Glaze (p. 950) and/or iced with Flat Icing (p. 984) after baking. Flat icing is drizzled over the cooled products without covering them completely. CINNAMON ROLLS 1. Scale dough into 20-ounce (600-g) units. On a floured board, roll each piece of dough into a rectangle measuring 9 × 12 inches and about 1 ⁄4 inch thick (23 × 30 × 0.5 cm). 2. Brush with butter and sprinkle with 2 ounces (60 g) cinnamon sugar. 3. Roll up like a jelly roll 12 inches (30 cm) long, as shown in the illustration. 4. Cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) rolls. 5. Place cut side down in greased muffin tins or on greased sheet pans. One full-size pan, 18 × 26 inches (46 × 66 cm), holds 48 rolls placed 6 by 8. For variations on the basic cinnamon roll shape, see Figure 30.16. CINNAMON RAISIN ROLLS Prepare like cinnamon rolls, but add 2 ounces (60 g) raisins to the filling. DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 955 Figure 30.15 Making brioche. (a) For a small brioche, roll the dough into a round piece. (b) Using the edge of your hand, pinch off about onefourth of the dough without detaching it. Roll the dough on the bench so that both parts are round. (c) Place the dough in the tin, large end first. With your fingertips, press the small ball into the larger one as shown. (d) For large brioche, separate the two parts of the dough. Place the large ball in the tin and make a hole in the center. Form the smaller ball into a pear shape and fit it into the hole. (e) A baked large brioche. (a) Roll the dough into a rectangle. Brush with butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar, or spread with desired filling. (b) Roll up like a jelly roll. (c) For cinnamon rolls and similar products, cut off pieces 1 in. (2.5 cm) in length. (d) For combs or bear claws, make the roll thinner and cut it into longer pieces. Flatten slightly and cut partway through each piece in 3 to 6 places as shown. Leave straight or bend into a curve to open the cuts. (e) For figure-eight cinnamon rolls, cut the rolls almost through as shown. Open them and lay them flat on the baking sheet. (f) To make a wreath-shaped coffee cake, join the ends of the dough roll to make a circle. (g) Cut partway through the dough at 1-in. (2.5-cm) intervals as shown. (h) Twist each segment outward to open the cuts. Figure 30.16 The filled dough roll is the starting point for a variety of sweet dough
956 CHAPTER 30 YEAST PRODUCTS (b) Fold the unsugared half over the sugared half. You now have a rectangle 8 in. (20 cm) wide. Roll the dough gently with a rolling pin to press the layers together. Figure 30.17 Spiral Danish rolls. (a) Roll the dough into a rectangle 16 in. (40 cm) wide and less than 1 ⁄4 in. (0.5 cm) thick. (The length of the rectangle depends on the quantity of dough.) Brush the dough with melted butter. Sprinkle half of it with cinnamon sugar as shown. (c) Cut the dough into strips 1 ⁄2 in. (1 cm) wide. (d) Place a strip crosswise in front of you on the bench. (e) With the palms of your hands on the ends of the strip, roll one end toward you and the other away from you so the strip twists. Stretch the strip slightly as you twist it. (f) Curl the strip into a spiral shape on the baking sheet. Tuck the end underneath and pinch it against the roll to seal it in place. If desired, press a hollow in the center of the roll and place a spoonful of filling (such as a fruit filling) in the center. CARAMEL ROLLS 1. Prepare like cinnamon rolls. 2. Before panning, spread the bottoms of the pans or muffin tins with the following mixture. Use about 1 ounce (30 g) of the mixture per roll. 2 lb (1 kg) brown sugar 8 oz (250 g) corn syrup 10 oz (300 g) butter 4 oz (125 mL) water Cream the sugar, corn syrup, and butter. Beat in the water. Quantities given are enough for 1 sheet pan of 48 rolls. CARAMEL NUT ROLLS OR PECAN ROLLS Prepare like caramel rolls, but sprinkle the sugar-butter mixture in the pans with chopped nuts or pecan halves before placing the rolls in the pans. WREATH COFFEE CAKE 1. Make a filled dough roll as for cinnamon rolls, but do not cut it into separate pieces. Other fillings, such as prune or date, may be used instead of butter and cinnamon sugar. 2. Shape the roll into a circle as shown in Figure 30.16f–h. Place on a greased baking sheet. Cut and shape as shown in the illustration. 3. Egg-wash after proofing. FILLED COFFEE CAKE 1. Scale dough into 12-ounce (350-g) units. 2. Roll each unit into a rectangle measuring 9 × 18 inches (23 × 46 cm). 3. Spread half of each rectangle with desired filling, using about 6 ounces (175 g) filling. 4. Fold the unspread half over the spread half to make a 9-inch (23-cm) square. 5. Place in greased 9-inch (23-cm) square pan. 6. Sprinkle with Streusel Topping (p. 950), about 4 ounces (125 g) per pan. 7. Proof and bake. Rolled-In Dough Products DANISH ROLLS AND COFFEE CAKES Most of the techniques given in the previous section for sweet dough products may be used for Danish pastry. Two additional methods are illustrated in Figures 30.17 and 30.18. Baked Danish dough products are frequently glazed with Clear Glaze (p. 950) and/or iced with Flat Icing (p. 984).
CROISSANTS The method for making up croissants is illustrated in Figure 30.19. DOUGH FORMULAS AND TECHNIQUES 957 TERMS FOR REVIEW lean dough rolled-in or laminated dough straight dough method modified straight dough method sponge method fermentation young and old doughs punching proofing oven spring QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. What are the three major purposes of mixing yeast doughs? 2. Explain the difference in procedure between the straight dough method and the sponge method. How is the straight dough method sometimes modified for sweet doughs, and why is this necessary? 3. What are the 12 steps in the production of yeast products? Explain each briefly. 4. Judging from what you know about fermentation of doughs, do you think it might be necessary for bakers to modify procedures from winter to summer? How? 5. As you know, butter is very hard when cold and melts easily at warm temperatures. What precautions do you think are necessary when using butter as the rolling-in fat for Danish pastry? Figure 30.18 Danish pockets. (a) Roll the dough to less than 1 ⁄4 in. (0.5 cm) thick and cut into 5-in. (13-cm) squares. Place desired filling on the center of each square. Brush the corners lightly with water—this helps them seal when pressed together. (b) Fold two opposite corners over the center. Press down firmly to seal them. (If desired, rolls may be left in this shape.) (c) Fold the other two corners over the center and again press them firmly together. (a) Roll the dough into a rectangle 10 in. (26 cm) wide and about 1 ⁄8 in. (3 mm) thick. (The length depends on the amount of dough used.) (b) Cut into triangles as shown. Special roller cutters are available that do this quickly. (c) Place a triangle on the bench in front of you. Stretch the back corners outward slightly, as shown by the arrows. (d) Begin to roll the dough toward the point. (e) Stretch the point of the triangle slightly as you roll it. (f) Finish rolling the dough. (g) Bend the roll into a crescent shape. The point of the triangle must be toward the inside of the crescent and tucked under the roll so it won’t pop up during baking. Figure 30.19 Making croissants.
OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 31 Blueberry, corn, and bran muffins, page 963.
ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOVEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATIODAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTTION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIEQuick breads are the perfect solution for operations that want to offer their patrons fresh, homemade bread products but can’t justify the labor cost of making yeast breads. Also, quick breads have the advantage of being easily made in almost unlimited varieties, using such ingredients as whole wheat flour, rye flour, cornmeal, bran, oatmeal, and many kinds of fruits, nuts, and spices. As their name implies, quick breads are quick to make. Because they are leavened by chemical leaveners and steam, not by yeast, no fermentation time is necessary. And because they are usually tender products with little gluten development, mixing them takes just a few minutes. Although prepared biscuit and muffin mixes are available, the only extra work required to make these products from scratch is the time to scale a few extra ingredients. With a careful and imaginative selection of ingredients and an understanding of basic mixing methods, you can create superior products. You may already have studied two kinds of quick bread in the breakfast chapter: pancakes and waffles. In this chapter, we present two basic mixing methods and apply them to biscuits, muffins, quick loaf breads and coffee cakes, and corn breads. In addition, we discuss popovers, which are leavened by steam only. Quick Breads 959 After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Prepare baking powder biscuits and variations. 2. Prepare muffins, loaf breads, coffee cakes, and corn breads. 3. Prepare popovers.
Mixing and Production Methods Types of Dough Dough mixtures for quick breads are generally of two types: 1. Soft doughs are used for biscuits. These products are rolled out and cut into desired shapes. They are mixed by the biscuit method. 2. Batters may be either pour batters, which are liquid enough to pour, or drop batters, which are thicker and drop from a spoon in lumps. Most quick-bread batters are mixed by the muffin method, except for drop biscuits, which are mixed by the biscuit method, and some rich cakelike muffins and coffee cakes, which are mixed by a cake-mixing method called the creaming method. The biscuit and muffin methods are presented in this chapter. The creaming method is presented in Chapter 32, along with other cake methods. The muffins and loaf breads in this chapter should be thought of as breads rather than as tea cakes. They are lower in fat and sugar than some of the rich, cakelike muffins sometimes seen. Gluten Development in Quick Breads Only slight gluten development is desired in most quick breads. Tenderness is the desired quality, in contrast to the chewy quality of yeast breads. In addition, chemical leavening agents do not create the same kind of textures that yeast does and are not strong enough to create a light, tender product if the gluten is too strong. 1. Muffin, loaf bread, and pancake batters are mixed as little as possible, just until the dry ingredients are moistened. This, plus the presence of fat and sugar, keeps gluten development low. Overmixing muffins produces not only toughness but also irregular shapes and large, elongated holes inside the product. This latter condition is called tunneling. 2. Biscuit dough is often lightly kneaded, enough to develop some flakiness but not enough to toughen the product. 3. Popovers are the exception among quick breads. They are made with a thin batter and leavened by steam only. Large holes develop inside the product during baking, and the structure must be strong enough to hold without collapsing. Thus, bread flour is used, and the batter is mixed well to develop the gluten. The high percentage of egg in popovers also helps build structure. The Biscuit Method 960 CHAPTER 31 QUICK BREADS Procedure: Biscuit Method 1. Scale all ingredients accurately. 2. Sift the dry ingredients together into a mixing bowl. 3. Cut in the shortening, using the paddle attachment or the pastry knife attachment. If preferred, you may cut in the fat by hand, using a pastry blender or your fingers. Continue until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. 4. Combine the liquid ingredients. Biscuits may be prepared in advance up to this point. Portions of each mixture may then be scaled and combined just before baking. 5. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients. Mix just until the ingredients are combined and a soft dough is formed. Do not overmix. 6. Bring the dough to the bench and knead it lightly by pressing it out and folding it in half. Rotate the dough 90 degrees after each fold. 7. Repeat this procedure about 10 to 20 times, or for about 30 seconds. The dough should be soft and slightly elastic but not sticky. Overkneading toughens the biscuits. The dough is now ready for makeup.
Variations on the basic procedure produce different characteristics in the finished product. 1. Using slightly more shortening and cutting it in less—until the pieces are the size of peas—produces a flakier biscuit. 2. Omitting the kneading step produces a tender, crustier biscuit, but one with less volume. MAKEUP OF BISCUITS 1. Roll the biscuit dough into a sheet about 1 ⁄2 inch (1 cm) thick, being careful to roll it evenly and to a uniform thickness. Biscuits approximately double in height during baking. 2. Cut into desired shapes. When using round hand cutters, cutting straight down produces the best shape after baking. Do not twist the cutter. Space the cuts closely to minimize scraps. Cutting into squares or triangles with a pastry cutter or knife eliminates scraps that would have to be rerolled. Roller cutters also eliminate or reduce scraps. Reworked scraps are tougher. 3. Place the biscuits 1 ⁄2 inch (1 cm) apart on a baking sheet for crisp-crusted biscuits, or touching each other for softer biscuits. Bake as soon as possible. If desired, the tops may be brushed with egg wash or milk before baking to aid browning. The Muffin Method This mixing method is used not only for muffins but also for pancakes, waffles, quick loaf breads, and coffee cakes. Loaf breads and coffee cakes are sometimes higher in fat and sugar than muffins, so they can withstand more mixing without toughening. The muffin method is not as suitable for formulas high in fat and sugar, unlike the cakemixing method called the creaming method, discussed in Chapter 32. Consequently, quick breads mixed by the muffin method are not as rich and cakelike as many of today’s popular muffins, which are closer to cakes than to traditional muffins. Keep this in mind as you practice the muffin method with the recipes in this chapter. MIXING AND PRODUCTION METHODS 961 THE RUBBED DOUGH METHOD The method for mixing biscuit doughs, in its simplest form, consists of two essential steps: rubbing or cutting the fat into the dry ingredients, and mixing in the combined wet ingredients. These are the same essential steps as for mixing pie doughs by a method called the rubbed dough method, as detailed on page 1007. Although the end product is quite different, many pastry chefs consider these methods to be the same and refer to them by the same name. Procedure: Muffin Method 1. Sift together the dry ingredients (see Figure 31.1). 2. Combine all liquid ingredients, including melted fat or oil. 3. Add the liquids to the dry ingredients and mix just until all the flour is moistened. The batter will look lumpy. Do not overmix. 4. Pan and bake immediately. The dry and liquid mixtures may be prepared in advance. Once they are combined, the batter should be baked without delay, or loss of volume may result. When portioning batter into muffin tins, be careful not to stir the mix and toughen it. Scoop the batter from the outside edge for best results. Figure 31.1 The muffin method. (a) Sift together the dry ingredients. (b) Add the combined liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix just until the flour is moistened. (c) Pan and bake immediately. Scoop the batter from the outside edge to minimize additional mixing.
Summary: Biscuit and Muffin Methods Biscuit Method Muffin Method 1. Combine dry ingredients 1. Combine dry ingredients. and cut in fat. 2. Combine liquid ingredients. 2. Combine liquid ingredients, including melted fat. 3. Add liquid and dry ingredients 3. Add liquid to dry ingredients and and mix just until combined. mix just until combined. 4. If required, knead very lightly. Formulas 962 CHAPTER 31 QUICK BREADS THE WELL MIXING METHOD The muffin method is sometimes called the well mixing method. This name comes from the technique, commonly used in European pastry shops, of mixing a dough directly on the workbench rather than in a bowl. In order to keep the liquid ingredients from flowing away, the chef makes a well in the dry ingredients (see Figure 31.2) and pours the liquid ingredients into this well. When you are mixing in a bowl, it is of course not necessary to make a well to confine the liquids. But the habit has stuck, and the name has become attached to this mixing method. Figure 31.2 Make a well in the mound of flour and add the liquids. KEY POINTS TO REVIEW • What are the steps in the biscuit method? • What are the steps in the muffin method? • Why must popover batter be mixed more thoroughly than muffin and biscuit doughs? Biscuits INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Bread flour 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 50 % Pastry flour 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 50 % Salt 0.75 oz 25 g 2 % Sugar 2 oz 60 g 5 % Baking powder 2.5 oz 75 g 6 % Shortening (regular) 14 oz 425 g 35 % and/or butter Milk 1 lb 10 oz 775 g 65 % Yield: 5 lb 5 oz 2560 g 213 % Per 1 biscuit: Calories, 130; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 7 g (48% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 15 g; Fiber 1 g; Sodium, 260 mg. Mixing and makeup: Biscuit method. Scaling: Approximately 1 lb (500 g) per dozen 2-in. (5-cm) biscuits. Baking: 425°F (220°C), about 15 minutes. VARIATIONS Buttermilk Biscuits Use buttermilk instead of regular milk. Cheese Biscuits Add 30% (12 oz/360 g) grated cheddar cheese to dry ingredients. Currant Biscuits Add 15% (6 oz/180 g) dried currants to dry ingredients. Increase sugar to 10% (4 oz/125 g). Sprinkle tops with cinnamon sugar before baking. Herb Biscuits Add 5% (2 oz/60 g) fresh chopped parsley to the dry ingredients.
MIXING AND PRODUCTION METHODS 963 Plain Muffins INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Pastry flour 2 lb 8 oz 1200 g 100 % Sugar 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 50 % Baking powder 2.5 oz 72 g 6 % Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 1.25 % Eggs, beaten 12 oz 360 g 30 % Milk 1 lb 12 oz 840 g 70 % Vanilla extract 1 oz 30 g 2.5 % Melted butter or 1 lb 480 g 40 % shortening Yield: 7 lb 8 oz 3597 g 299 % Per 1 muffin: Calories, 170; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 7 g (36% cal.); Cholesterol, 40 mg; Carbohydrates, 25 g; Fiber, 3 g; Sodium, 230 mg. Mixing: Muffin method. Scaling and panning: Grease and flour muffin tins, or use paper liners. Scale batter with a No. 16 scoop, 2 oz (60 g) per unit. Baking: 400°F (200°C), about 20 minutes. VARIATIONS Raisin Spice Muffins Add 20% raisins (8 oz/250 g), 21 ⁄2 tsp (12 mL) cinnamon, and 1 tsp (5 mL) nutmeg to the dry ingredients. Date Nut Muffins Add 15% (6 oz/185 g) each chopped dates and chopped walnuts to the dry ingredients. Blueberry Muffins Gently fold 40% (1 lb/480 g) well-drained blueberries into the finished batter. Whole Wheat Muffins Use 70% (1 lb 12 oz/840 g) pastry flour and 30% (12 oz/ 360 g) whole wheat flour. Reduce baking powder to 4% (11 ⁄2 oz/50 g) and add 0.75% (2 tsp/10 mL) baking soda. Add 10% (4 oz/ 120 g) molasses to the liquid ingredients. Corn Muffins Use 65% (1 lb 10 oz/800 g) pastry flour and 35% (14 oz/ 400 g) yellow cornmeal. (See also Corn Bread formula, p. 965.) Bran Muffins Use 30% (12 oz/360 g) bran, 40% (1 lb/480 g) bread flour, and 30% (12 oz/360 g) pastry flour. Add 15% (6 oz/ 180 g) raisins to the dry ingredients. Add 15% (6 oz/180 g) molasses to the liquid ingredients. Crumb Coffee Cake Increase fat to 50% (1 lb 4 oz/600 g). Pour into greased, paperlined sheet pan and spread smooth. Top with 80% (2 lb/1 kg) Streusel Topping (p. 950). Bake at 360°F (180°C), about 30 minutes. Muffins, clockwise from top: blueberry, corn, bran
964 CHAPTER 31 QUICK BREADS Banana Bread INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Pastry flour 1 lb 8 oz 700.5 g 100 % Sugar 10 oz 275.5 g 40 % Baking powder 1.25 oz 35.5 g 5% Baking soda 1 tsp 3.5 g (5 mL) 0.5 % Salt 2 tsp 9.5 g (10 mL) 1.25 % Chopped walnuts 6 oz 175.5 g 25 % Eggs 10 oz 275.5 g 40 % Ripe banana pulp, 1 lb 8 oz 700.5 g 100 % puréed Oil, melted shortening, 8 oz 225.5 g 33 % or butter Yield: 5 lb 4 oz 2397.5 g 344 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 90; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 4.5 g (41% cal.); Cholesterol, 15 mg; Carbohydrates, 12 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 120 mg. Mixing: Muffin method. Scaling: 1 lb 10 oz (750 g) per loaf pan measuring 81 ⁄2 × 41 ⁄2 in. (22 × 11 cm). Baking: 375°F (190°C), about 50 minutes. Popovers INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Eggs 1 lb 4 oz 625 g 125 % Milk 2 lb 1000 g (1 L) 200 % Salt 0.25 oz 8 g (6 mL) 1.5 % (11 ⁄4 tsp) Melted butter 2 oz 60 g 12.5 % or shortening Bread flour 1 lb 500 g 100 % Yield: 4 lb 6 oz 2193 g 439 % Per 1 popover: Calories, 70; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 3 g (38% cal.); Cholesterol, 60 mg; Carbohydrates, 8 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 95 mg. Mixing: 1. Beat eggs, milk, and salt with whip attachment until well blended. Add melted fat. 2. Replace whip with paddle. Mix in flour until completely smooth. Scaling and panning: Grease every cup of popover tins or every other cup of muffin tins—popovers need room for expansion. Fill cups about twothirds full, about 11 ⁄2 oz (50 g) batter per unit. Baking: 450°F (230°C) for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 375°F (190°C) for 20–30 minutes. Before removing them from oven, be sure popovers are dry and firm enough to avoid collapse. Remove from pans immediately. Popovers
MIXING AND PRODUCTION METHODS 965 Corn Bread, Muffins, or Sticks INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Pastry flour 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 50 % Cornmeal 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 50 % Sugar 6 oz 175 g 15 % Baking powder 2 oz 60 g 5 % Salt 0.75 oz 25 g 2 % Eggs, beaten 8 oz 250 g 20 % Milk 2 lb 2 oz 1000 g (1 L) 85 % Corn syrup 2 oz 60 g 5 % Melted butter 12 oz 350 g 30 % or shortening Yield: 6 lb 8 oz 3120 g 262 % Per 1 muffin: Calories, 160; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 7 g (39% cal.); Cholesterol, 35 mg; Carbohydrates, 22 g; Fiber, 2 g; Sodium, 290 mg. Mixing: Muffin method. Scaling: 60 oz (1700 g) per half-size sheet pan (13 x 18 in./33 x 46 cm). 24 oz (725 g) per 9-in. (23-cm) square pan or per dozen muffins. 10 oz (300 g) per dozen corn sticks. Grease and flour pans well. Baking: 400°F (200°C) for corn bread, 25–30 minutes. 425°F (220°C) for muffins or sticks, 15–20 minutes. TERMS FOR REVIEW pour batter drop batter muffin method biscuit method tunneling well mixing method QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1. If you made a batch of muffins that came out of the oven with strange, knobby shapes, what would you expect was the reason? 2. What is the most important difference between the biscuit method and the muffin method? 3. How is the mixing method for popovers different from the mixing method for muffins? What is the leavening agent for popovers? Orange Nut Bread INGREDIENTS U.S. METRIC PERCENTAGE PROCEDURE Sugar 12 oz 350 g 50 % Grated orange zest 1 oz 30 g 4 % Pastry flour 1 lb 8 oz 700 g 100 % Nonfat dry milk 2 oz 60 g 8 % Baking powder 1 oz 30 g 4 % Baking soda 2 tsp 10 g 1.4 % Salt 2 tsp 10 g (10 mL) 1.4 % Chopped walnuts 12 oz 350 g 50 % Eggs 5 oz 150 g 20 % Orange juice 6 oz 175 g 25 % Water 1 lb 450 g 65 % Oil, melted butter, 6 oz 175 g 25 % or shortening Yield: 5 lb 5 oz 2490 g 344 % Per 1 ounce (28.35 g): Calories, 80; Protein, 2 g; Fat, 4 g (39% cal.); Cholesterol, 5 mg; Carbohydrates, 12 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 130 mg. Mixing: Muffin method. Blend the sugar and orange zest thoroughly before adding remaining dry ingredients to ensure even distribution. Scaling: 1 lb 10 oz (750 g) per loaf pan measuring 81 ⁄2 × 41 ⁄2 in. (22 × 11 cm). Baking: 375°F (190°C), about 50 minutes.
OOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI NCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER TANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL RY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND Chapter 32 Fruit Torte, page 972.