Vanity Fair UK

this industry, and when I walk into rooms, people still raise their however, worked in their favor: Reed and Delo, in signature
eyebrows.” The same could be said of Hayes, who, as Demirors start-up fashion, took turns being “on call,” addressing cus-
sees it, “didn’t have famous venture capital backers. He didn’t tomer support issues 24/7.
have the advantages that other people had.” Hayes’s original sin
might be that he refused to play the game. “He didn’t care about The company’s fortunes changed when, in late 2015, it started
the charade and the optics and the bullshit and Silicon Valley offering customers 100x—five times as much leverage as its clos-
and the think tanks—all the stupid shit you do for prestige. He est competitor. Political volatility the following year, with Brexit
just didn’t care…. Sometimes people’s greatest qualities are also and the election of Trump, increased crypto’s trading volume.
their biggest downfall.” Come 2017, BitMEX had to bring on 30 employees to cope with
the explosion in trading. The firm moved into new office space,
BitMEX incorporated in the Seychelles, a move that allowed which it would soon outgrow.
the start-up to move fast and minimize its tax exposure while
Western governments struggled to even understand—much less By 2018, BitMEX had become a high-stakes bazaar, moving
create a way to govern—the newfangled financial instruments billions every day. During one of our meetings, Hayes comment-
ed, “We are the biggest trading platform in the world, by volume.

CRYPTO TRIO That’s anyone who trades a crypto product.” BitMEX, he said,
The billionaire cofounders of BitMEX, who are now under federal was one of the “most liquid exchange[s] in the world, regard-
indictment: Ben Delo, at company headquarters in Hong Kong, less of asset class.” By that measure it was in the same league as
2019; Hayes, Sam Reed, and Delo in Dublin, 2014; Reed on his the NASDAQ as well as the New York, London, and Tokyo stock
laptop in Croatia on the day the firm began trading, 2014. exchanges. Within four short years Hayes’s scrappy casino had
become, in gambling terms, the house. (Since the indictment
and market it was building. In a 2015 investor presentation, was unsealed in October, BitMEX has taken a huge hit; its market
Hayes made the point that “Bitcoin derivatives are completely share and trading volume have dropped precipitously.)
unregulated worldwide…. Regulators are still trying to tackle
the exchanging of fiat and Bitcoin.” SHARKS AND LAMBOS

That might have been magical thinking. “There were no In May 2018, on the opening day of Consensus—the crypto
rules in the beginning, and [governments] weren’t interested world’s equivalent of the Consumer Electronics Show—Hayes
in articulating the rules,” Chu remembered. “You would go to pulled up to the Hilton in midtown Manhattan in an orange
[them] and ask for guidance and get nothing. ‘Is this illegal?’ No Lamborghini and tweeted: “Did you see my ride today at
answer.” It was only after the fact, he said, that cryptic strictures #Consensus2018 ?”
emerged to police crypto—usually in response to some infrac-
tion that had not been previously articulated by regulators. But A close friend insisted he was simply lampooning the thou-
where Chu saw chaos, Hayes saw opportunity. sands of attendees gathered inside the hotel—investors who
talked a big game about cashing in on crypto, but who had
For nearly a year after its launch, BitMEX’s business was flat. really only succeeded in burning through millions in venture
“Some days we had no trades,” Hayes remembered. “No one capital on harebrained schemes and ICOs (initial coin offer-
bought or sold.” The fees from trading on the platform barely ings). Still, looking back, the Lambo gambit might well have
covered the server bill, which Reed paid with his credit card. been the moment, more than any other, when Hayes painted
While Hayes and Delo stayed in Hong Kong, Reed got married a bull’s-eye on his back.
and moved back to the States, settling in Milwaukee, where he
operated out of coworking space. The time zone difference,

48 VA N I T Y FA I R

True, the firm’s partners had differing approaches to their means ‘fucked in the ass’—where every other second some-
images and their booming business. Hayes, who didn’t mind body has been liquidated by these guys, and thousands of them
ruffling feathers, reveled in the role of financial renegade. Reed have gone into financial ruin.” He accused the company of
kept an extremely low profile, a secret billionaire (on paper) bucking regulations, insisting that with BitMEX, “everybody
walking the streets of Milwaukee. Delo, however, seemed to gets rekt,” with the exception of Hayes and his colleagues,
hunger for mainstream acceptance. When BitMEX was declared who, Roubini said, reap commissions and fees and maintain
the world’s largest cryptocurrency exchange in 2018, a string of a liquidation fund that profits off of people going bankrupt.
British newspapers dubbed him “the U.K.’s youngest self-made
billionaire.” That October he donated 5 million British pounds to Hayes countered with what about–ism: “BitMEX. One
Oxford’s Worcester College and a few months later signed the hundred times leverage. So what? You could trade this type of
Giving Pledge, designed by Bill and Melinda Gates and War- leverage anywhere you want to go. In the United States we have
ren Buffett as “an open invitation for billionaires…to publicly things called [exchange-traded funds—ETFs]. There was a great
commit to giving the majority of their wealth to philanthropy.” one…and it was [based on the idea of] short volatility. A one-day
spike in February 2018—in the most highly regulated financial
In a letter explaining his decision, he market in the world, highly liquid, and all these nice banks, people
wrote, “As a schoolboy in Britain aged 16, with suits on, went to nice universities, and your ETF went to
I was asked to list my ambitions for the fucking zero. Rekt!” It was a curious line of argument for some-
future. I answered concisely: ‘Computer one who got his start in finance by building and pushing ETFs.
programmer. Internet entrepreneur. Mil-
lionaire.’ I have been incredibly fortunate Hayes, in fact, had many fans in the auditorium that day,
to exceed those goals, and I’m grateful to people who believed that he, like Facebook’s Mark Zucker-
be in a position to sign this pledge.” berg, had created an entire marketplace from scratch, an
influential, secure, and highly profitable platform that people
Two years ago BitMEX leased the 45th had never known they needed. As Hayes spoke, though, other
floor of Cheung Kong Center, the most parallels with Zuckerberg were unmistakable: the arrogance,
expensive real estate in Hong Kong the disdain for authority, and the tone deafness that veered
and home to Goldman Sachs, Barclays, toward self-sabotage. All of it was on display in Taipei. When
Bloomberg, and Bank of America. Hayes, the moderator questioned BitMEX’s decision to register in the
Delo, and Reed were literally moving in Seychelles, where, it was suggested, there are no regulations,
on the establishment. But ever eager Hayes went off: “Maybe the U.S.-centric Roubini thinks the
to make a statement, BitMEX kitted New York [Department of Financial Services] and New York
out its office with an accessory none of [attorney general] is the only game in town and we need to,
those stodgy legacy companies had: a you know, bow down and take an ass fucking from the U.S.
large aquarium inhabited, appropriately government just because it’s regulated. Now, I don’t know.
enough, by live sharks. That’s really not my game.”

THE TANGLE IN TAIPEI When asked if he might concede that U.S. and European regu-
latory authorities are on a slightly different plane than those
By the summer of 2019, the amount of money moving through in the Seychelles, Hayes remarked, “It just costs more to bribe
BitMEX was staggering. On June 27, the company announced them.” And how much was Hayes paying to bribe the Seychelles
it had set a new daily record, trading $16 billion. Two days later authorities? His answer: “a coconut.”
Hayes tweeted: “One Trillion Dollars traded in a year; the stats
don’t lie. BitMEX ain’t nothing to fucking [sic] with. @Nouriel A few weeks later Dr. Doom blasted back with a scathing
I’ll see you on Wednesday.” op-ed titled “The Great Crypto Heist.” In it he raised red flags
about systematic illegality in offshore exchanges. Still fuming
The man he was tweeting at was Nouriel Roubini, a respect- from Taipei, he trained his ire on BitMEX and its CEO, accusing
ed NYU economics professor—and BitMEX’s fiercest critic. them of sketchy business practices, such as using an internal
Dubbed Dr. Doom—for having predicted the 2007 subprime for-profit trading desk to front-run their own clients and deriv-
mortgage crisis as well as the stock market plunge and global ing up to half of their profits from liquidations—the suggestion
recession that followed—Roubini had sat on President Clin- being that BitMEX is highly incentivized to screw over the very
ton’s Council of Economic Advisers and served at the Treasury people who trade on the platform.
Department, the International Monetary Fund, and the World
Bank. In other words, he was about as establishment as Hayes Then Roubini went for the kill shot: “BitMEX insiders
was not. On July 3, the pair faced off onstage at the Asia Block- revealed to me that this exchange is also used daily for money
chain Summit in what was publicized as “the Tangle in Taipei,” laundering on a massive scale by terrorists and other criminals
taking their seats as the theme from Rocky blared overhead. from Russia, Iran, and elsewhere; the exchange does nothing
to stop this, as it profits from these transactions.” He closed by
The professor spoke first and went straight for the jugular: shaming regulators who he said “have been asleep at the wheel
“Shitty behavior occurs in this particular industry—con men, as the crypto cancer has metastasized.”
criminals, scammers, snake oil salesmen, and so on. Next to me
is a gentleman who works with degenerate gamblers and retail Demirors had a more charitable view of the tussle in Taipei:
suckers, nonaccredited investors.” Roubini didn’t hold back. “That’s an example of [Arthur] being a showman and creat-
“There’s a whole nice Twitter feed called BitMEX Rekt—rekt ing a scene and understanding, you know, the economics of
attention.” She marveled at how total strangers—even those
who got rekt on BitMEX—would approach Hayes on the street
and want to give him a hug. “For so C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 8 5

APRIL 2021 49

THE V

ASKING FOR TROUBLE Dress and boots by
Ziwe lounges at New York LANVIN; jewelry
City’s Beekman Hotel. by David Webb.

ELVET

HAMMER

Writer-performer ZIWE has perfected the art
of putting people on the spot in her web series, Baited.

Now she’s bringing that same fearless energy to television.
She tells Yohana Desta how she plans to upend late night

Photographs by Styled by
KENNEDI CARTER NICOLE CHAPOTEAU

APRIL 2021 51

T he…a poet of the Harlem Renaissance?”). HAI R , L ATI S HA C H O N G ; MAK E U P , FR AN K B. ; TAI LO R , MAR IA DE L G RECO ; CAK E S AN D FO O D ST YLI N G, JE NN E H KAI K AI / P E L AH K I TCH E N ; P RO DUCE D O N LO CATION BY RO BERTO SOSA; FOR DETAILS, GO TO VF.COM/CREDITS.
Soon, thousands were tuning in weekly
THE FIRST TIME I talk to Ziwe, she’s ready to see her guests squirm over deceptively
to take on late night but not entirely sure simple questions (“How many Black
how. “Hopefully we have explosions, friends do you have?”) that forced them
confetti cannons, and dancers,” she says. to acknowledge their own biases. Even
Weeks later, she calls back to say a plan her viewers had to wonder how well
has emerged: The set of her forthcoming they’d fare under the same microscope.
Showtime series, Ziwe, will be a pink won-
derland, “like Barbie’s Dreamhouse.” Baited With Ziwe, as it was originally
Ziwe will dress more like a doll than a called, wasn’t on TV, but it became the
typical variety show host, an aesthetic show of the summer anyway, drawing
send-up of the suits, ties, and skylines that bigger-name guests like Rose McGowan,
have dominated the genre for decades. Alyssa Milano, and the Tony-nominated
When it premieres May 9, Ziwe will be playwright Jeremy O. Harris. Fans started
less Late Show and more The Eric Andre tagging Ziwe on social media whenever
Show, a variety series that wants to lob a the rich and famous sparked uncom-
firecracker at the system. “You know how fortable headlines—a not uncommon
they say in theater, never bring a dog or occurrence—and the host herself reached
baby onstage because you don’t know out to potential interviewees like J.K.
what they’ll do?” Ziwe says. “Well, I love Rowling and Jameela Jamil with a signa-
dogs and I love babies.” ture Twitter summons: “Would you be
interested in an interview on my Insta-
The 29-year-old mononymic Nigerian gram Live? You’d be an iconic guest.”
American comedian, who’s calling from
her Brooklyn apartment, has already pro- “I’m really appreciative that people
duced two versions of Ziwe on her are paying attention to the work that
own—first on YouTube, then on Insta- I’ve been doing for a while,” Ziwe says,
gram. Both focused on Ziwe as she asked “because I remember when no one was
a series of (usually white) guests con- paying attention.”
frontational questions about race. On
YouTube, those guests tended to be fel- The Instagram show begat a book
low comedians. But the pandemic-born deal: a forthcoming collection of essays
Instagram Live version matched the titled The Book of Ziwe. Then Showtime
Desus & Mero writer with figures like and A24 announced the late-night Ziwe,
cookbook author Alison Roman and which began filming in February. It’s the
influencer Caroline Calloway, shortly first time that Ziwe, who cut her teeth
after each found herself swimming in the interning for Stephen Colbert and writ-
waters of cancellation. Viewers watched ing for Robin Thede, will star in her
rapt as Ziwe asked Calloway to identify own series—and she got the call while
Black icons like Marcus Garvey (“Never producing content from her couch. “It’s
heard of him”) and Huey P. Newton (“Is honestly wild,” she says. “I really don’t
leave. There’s a pandemic. I’m not going
to glamorous parties.”

Ziwe and four staffers (Cole Escola,
Jamund Washington, Jordan Mendoza,
and Michelle Davis) are writing the
series, with each episode revolving
around a different theme: allyship,
immigration, beauty standards, wealth.
There will be two guest interviews as
well as sketches and musical perfor-
mances, with a twist: “I’m a musical
guest every episode,” Ziwe says. That’s
not a joke: She’s got the chops. She spent

52 VA N I T Y F A I R

AN ICONIC HOST Clothing by Bottega Veneta; gloves by
From YouTube to Instagram Live Carolina Amato; necklace by CHANEL; ring
to Showtime, Ziwe’s kept the core by David Webb; cushions by GUCCI;
concept of her show intact. teapot and sugar bowl by Ginori 1735.

APRIL 2021 53

“The COMEDY that I try to make TALKS ABOUT
the BATTLES that we’re fighting.”

IN THE HOT SEAT Dress by LOEWE; earrings by Irene Neuwirth. Opposite:
The comedian never met a pointed clothing by Miu Miu; shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti;
question—or an uncomfortable earrings by MATEO. Throughout: hair products by Bumble
one—she didn’t like. and Bumble; makeup by Clé de Peau Beauté.

54 VA N I T Y FA I R

years writing and performing comedic American studies. Trayvon Martin’s The comedian’s been working simul-
pop songs with titles like “Make It Clap death marked a critical turning point in taneously on the show and her book.
for Democracy.” She’ll also perform new the way she thought about race. When she needs a break, she turns to Real
material on the show, aided by comedian Housewives or documentaries. (“I love to
Patti Harrison. “I don’t know how you can listen to [the learn passively.”) She’s also been reading
911] call and think anything other than this about outré comedian Andy Kaufman,
The suburban Massachusetts native kid was murdered in cold blood,” she says. someone Baited observers keep compar-
born Ziwe Fumudoh—she doesn’t use “My friends from high school were react- ing her to. “Some people have described
her last name professionally—says she ing in the opposite way. They were like, my comedy as [being] on the precipice
wasn’t expected to take this particular ‘Well, stand your ground. What can you of trolling,” Ziwe says. She’s comfort-
path: “I didn’t grow up with comedy nerd do?’ ” Ziwe’s work explores this discon- able with that notion, though it makes
parents who watched the Late Show With nect. “Race permeates every aspect of her want to dig deeper: Can one troll art-
David Letterman. My parents are immi- our lives,” she says. “The comedy that I try fully? Can the notion of provocation itself
grants. That wasn’t the vibe. We watched to make talks about the battles that we’re be subverted? She’s thinking about asking
TV Land.” Ziwe attended predominantly fighting, and how we have to open our eyes those who drew the comparisons in the
white schools and later enrolled at and really unlearn all these racial biases if first place. Don’t worry, though. She just
Northwestern University to major in we want to succeed and grow as a country.” has a few simple questions. Q
radio/television/film and African

APRIL 2021 55

INTELLIGENT
DESIGN

FOR DECADES, YVES BÉHAR HAS BLENDED
SWISS AESTHETICS WITH CALIFORNIA TECHNOLOGY
IN HIS HUMANIST DESIGNS. NOW, HE’S DOUBLING
DOWN ON HIS MISSION TO BUILD A BETTER FUTURE

By
MARK ROZZO

Photograph by
KATY GRANNAN

56 VA N I T Y FA I R APRIL 2021



ONE SUNNY AFTERNOON convert’s zeal. In conversation, Béhar melds European formal-
14 YEARS AGO, I WENT ity with Golden State cool, a duality mirrored in his elegantly
UP TO VISIT THE PRODUCT exuberant work, which has run the gamut from tech devices
DESIGNER YVES BÉHAR to office furniture to electric motorcycles to remote-controlled
AT HIS WEEKEND PLACE crystal chandeliers to prefab houses.
ON THE NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA COAST. As we sat and watched the crashing waves, a trio of school-
age neighborhood kids ambled into the yard. They were drawn
The house, which Béhar still owns, sits atop a bluff; from a patch to a peculiar green-and-white object Béhar held in his hands.
of lawn you can watch the Pacific surf coming in below, as we It was the XO Laptop, one of his recent designs and the cen-
did that day, one perfect set after another. Béhar, who turned terpiece of the One Laptop Per Child program instigated by
40 that year, kept one eye on the waves as we sipped beers and Nicholas Negroponte at MIT’s Media Lab, a massive initiative
talked about his latest projects. He is a guy who in many ways to bring educational technology to kids in the developing world.
seems most comfortable in a wetsuit—a Swiss-born adopter The device was achieving fame as the “$100 laptop,” based on
of California’s national pastime, which he has taken up with a its projected (and ultimately elusive) price point; the New York
Times called it “the laptop that will save the world.” With its
Lilliputian seven-and-a-half-inch screen, twin earlike Wi-Fi
antennas, rounded edges, and robust slate of games and activi-
ties, the XO reminded me of something that might have sprung
from the imaginations of Sid and Marty Krofft. Béhar—who,
with his tousle of blond hair, resembles Antoine de Saint-
Exupéry’s Little Prince (the hero of a book that enchanted him
as a boy)—handed the little machine to the three kids. They
toggled through its features with frequent exclamations of
“whoa!,” making it clear that this laptop was as kid-friendly as
it was serious: an innovative, perhaps even revolutionary object
you couldn’t keep your hands off of.

Béhar will turn 54 in May. He has made a career out of designs
that are as irresistible as they are visionary, and which have the
power to ripple through entire product categories or to create
new ones altogether. The One Laptop Per Child, or OLPC,

5
4
1

36

2

58 VA N I T Y FA I R

S AY L C H A I R : C O U R T E S Y O F H E R M A N M I L L E R . A L L O T H E R P R O D U C T S : C O U R T E S Y O F F U S E P R O J E C T. helped drive the emergence of low-price laptops for educa- beguiling, with envelope-pushing three-dimensional form and
tional purposes, the category that includes Chromebooks and fluidity, not so much modernistic as futuristic, even utopian.
the like. It also drove Béhar’s reputation, making him the most
high-profile product designer in America, along with Apple’s In 2007, with the OLPC rollout, Béhar—who had already
former chief design officer, Jony Ive. (Béhar’s Jawbone Bluetooth garnered solo museum shows and a National Design Award—
earpiece was sold alongside the original iPhone.) was anointed a design-world poster boy, a wunderkind, a pop
star in a realm that celebrated its heroes at annual fairs such as
Like Ive, Béhar’s work is virtually synonymous with Silicon Design Miami and Milan’s Salone del Mobile, where designers
Valley. Unlike Ive, Béhar has never professed in-house fealty to unveil their latest creations amid swarming fans and collectors.
a corporate patron. Since founding his trailblazing San Francisco Béhar’s pop-star status was confirmed for me one year at Design
design studio, Fuseproject, in 1999, Béhar has taken on clients Miami, when I saw him strolling along in amiable conversation
from all over: Nike, Herman Miller, Birkenstock, Mini Cooper, at a garden party with Kanye West.
Movado, Nivea, L’Oréal, Swarovski, Puma, Kodak, Samsung,
on and on. (In 2014, Béhar sold 75 percent of Fuseproject for a “In terms of where he sits in the design world, he has his
reported $46.7 million to the Chinese conglomerate BlueFocus; own kingdom, basically, and he’s ruling it,” Ambra Medda,
it took full ownership in 2017, with Béhar as CEO.) He is a pio- the cofounder of Design Miami and the online design market-
neer of “venture design,” a business model in which designers place Pamono, told me. David Adjaye, the celebrated Ghanaian
partner with start-ups, bypassing traditional payment struc- British architect, said of Béhar, “He’s a radical thinker and
tures for equity; it has meant more creativity, commitment, he’s thinking about the future.” Paola Antonelli, the Museum
and culpability—along with an enhanced risk of failure. He has of Modern Art’s senior curator of architecture and design,
executed projects of every scale and type, commercial and civic; spoke to the transformative nature of Béhar’s work when she
the New York City Department of Health, for instance, hired observed that the XO Laptop “has done for humanitarian
him to design condom dispensers and the official condoms they design what the iPod has done for consumer products—the
would dispense. There’s no way to reduce Béhar to a trademark world will never be the same.”
style, as you might do with Ive, who cannily applied Bauhaus
principles to iPods, iPhones, and MacBooks. (In 2019, Ive left This past winter, I caught up with Béhar, who was spend-
Apple to found the firm LoveFrom with another design super- ing the season with his family at a house in the Lake Tahoe ski
star, Marc Newson.) “Style doesn’t interest me,” Béhar once region. “I still like to play some of the games on that,” he said
told me. Yet each of his projects, from the Leaf desk lamp for of the XO Laptop, reminiscing over the phone about that after-
Herman Miller to the Jambox Bluetooth speaker to JimmyJane noon in 2007. I had seen Béhar periodically in the years since,
vibrators, bears a Béharian thumbprint—surprising, colorful, and but it was hard not to think about the interval between then
and now: an economic meltdown, an unabated climate crisis,
political dysfunction, a reckoning with systemic racism, and a

OBJECT PERMANENCE

1. Sayl Chair, for Herman Miller 2. Jawbone UP2 3. NYC Condom Dispenser
4. Leaf Desk Lamp, for Herman Miller 5. ElliQ robot, for Intuition Robotics

6. Jambox Speaker 7. Snoo bassinet 8. Movado Edge 9. XO computer designed
for the One Laptop Per Child program 10. JimmyJane Vibrator 11. SodaStream

11
8 10

7

9

APRIL 2021 59

MADE-TO-ORDER

Designed for sustainability and adaptability, Béhar’s LivingHome is a next-gen
prefab house with an adjustable layout and smart home technology.

pandemic that made it impossible for us to meet in person, as electric motorbike (Mission One, for Mission Motors, which
we had in the past, in San Francisco, Milan, New York, or Miami, set land-speed records) or sustainable packaging (the Clever
when the designer was accustomed to constant motion. There Little Bag for Puma sneakers) or a robotic bassinet (the Snoo,
was, too, the fact that the OLPC Foundation had disbanded in a recent collaboration with the pediatrician and best-selling
2014, falling short of its goal of blanketing the world with XO author Harvey Karp) and bring it to the market.
Laptops and triggering criticism about the wisdom of applying
first-world tech solutions to developing-world problems. Even As a career retrospective, the publication is well-timed.
so, the device did ship to three and a half million children. From Béhar, after all, is no longer an upstart maverick or radiant idol.
the vantage point of 2021, with the migration of classrooms to He has endured failures, even something of a backlash from
Zoom, the XO looks downright prescient. In fact, it still looks the design press, and may be entering the most crucial—and
like a vision of the future. perhaps consequential—phase of his career. In the midst of a
global coronavirus shutdown and its attendant doubts, Béhar
Such visions abound in the whopping monograph Yves Béhar: insisted that his utopic vision remains undimmed. When I asked
Designing Ideas, out this spring from Thames & Hudson. It’s a about his ongoing high-wire act of designing for a future that,
350-plus-page wonder cabinet crammed with every kind of by definition, isn’t here yet, he deployed a quote from Pippi

BÉHAR IMMERSED HIMSELF IN SCIENCE
FICTION AND FANTASY. “I TENDED TO LIVE
IN ALTERNATE WORLDS,” HE SAID.

project, product, initiative, and environment imaginable. You Longstocking, one that could be a personal motto: “I have never
can read it not only as a timeline of Béhar and his two decades tried that before,” he said, savoring the epigrammatic ring of it,
with Fuseproject, but of 21st-century design in general, with “so I think I should definitely be able to do that.”
its preoccupations laid out page by page, from tech to lifestyle
to sustainability. The book is unusually conversational (the WHEN THEY’RE NOT hunkered down in Tahoe or at their week-
text is, in fact, a dialogue-like collaboration with the journal- end place on the coast, Béhar and his wife, Sabrina Buell, live
ist Adam Fisher), an amiable and frank journey into the twists on a steeply inclined street in the Cow Hollow district in San
and turns of the design process that provides rare insight into Francisco; their house is a minimalist jewel set amid the rows
what it takes to create a seltzer machine (SodaStream) or an

60 VA N I T Y FA I R

FUTURE SIGHT

In 2019, Fuseproject, alongside the housing nonprofit New Story and the building-tech
company Icon, created 3D-printed houses for a Latin American farming community.

T H I S PA G E : N E W S T O R Y/ C O U R T E S Y O F F U S E P R O J E C T. O P P O S I T E : L I V I N G H O M E S / P L A N T P R E FA B - Y B 1 , C O U R T E S Y O F F U S E P R O J E C T. of fanciful Victorian structures, with views of the bay. It’s been and contraptions, such as a jury-rigged ski-and-sail apparatus
featured in Architectural Digest and in Vogue, which said it “may that allowed him to cruise across icy Swiss lakes—“freezing my
be the highest-tech house in San Francisco.” The energetic ass off and going at dangerous crazy speeds,” he said. He gravi-
Buell—her father is a developer, her late mother was a Mon- tated toward punk, loving the humor of it (“I remember laughing
davi, and her stepmother cofounded the brands Esprit and The as much as grooving to the Dead Kennedys,” he said) but even
North Face—is in her mid-40s. She is a leading West Coast art more the movement’s DIY spirit—you could experiment, explore,
consultant, one half of the advisory firm Zlot Buell. Their house make a mess. “It gives us permission to fail and try again,” he said,
is dotted with the work of contemporary artists. Robert Longo “without being an expert.” Béhar showed me a photograph of his
and Barry McGee are among their favorites; last year, just before teen self amid the sweaty crowd at a punk show at La Dolce Vita, a
the pandemic, Béhar made a pilgrimage to James Turrell’s colos- club in Lausanne; he’s easily discernible in the profusion of faces:
sal land-art project Roden Crater, in Arizona. Between Buell’s the blond tousle, the intent, inquisitive expression.
social and art-world connections and Béhar’s dual immersion in
design and tech, they are an indelibly glamorous, if low-key, Bay The young Béhar yearned to escape Switzerland. “It was a
Area power couple. During the 2016 campaign, they cohosted small place,” he said, “and people were not as open to new ideas
an event for Hillary Clinton. and new constructs.” His parents weren’t enthusiastic when he
announced that he wanted to become an industrial designer,
“Family was always important and grounding for him,” Med- but they allowed him to enroll at the Swiss branch of the Art
da said. For all of the couple’s success, the focus does not stray far Center College of Design; in 1990, he transferred to the main
from their four children, whom Béhar is known to bounce design campus, in Pasadena. In Southern California, his French accent
ideas off. (The oldest, age 13, is from Béhar’s previous relation- made him feel like a goober, “fresh off the boat,” so he got rid of
ship.) He remains close to his parents, who still live in Lausanne, it. (Today, there’s a subtle trace of transatlanticism in his plain,
the city on Lac Léman, in Switzerland, where Béhar grew up with general american–accented speech.) In Pasadena, he met artists
two younger brothers. His father, Henry, is a career philatelist, such as Longo and Keith Haring, designers such as Luigi Colani
with a small shop dealing in stamps. Antique postage and letters and Victor Papanek; he fell for the outlandish futurisms of Syd
fascinated the young Yves; their intricate designs held human Mead (who designed the movie Blade Runner), the utopianism
stories: a lesson internalized. His father’s family are Sephardic of Buckminster Fuller, and the everyday good design of Charles
Jews who, through the centuries, migrated from Spain to Venice and Ray Eames, whose total studio approach—an interdisci-
to Istanbul, where Henry was raised. Béhar remembers family plinary mix of furniture, graphics, architecture, photography,
gatherings where Ladino was still spoken. His mother, Christine, filmmaking—was arguably the biggest influence of all.
is a translator from Pomerania, a region that straddles Poland
and the old East Germany. At age 17 she escaped to the West, By 1992, Béhar had moved to San Francisco. It was a time when
eventually finding her way to London, where, in a scenario out young graduates flocked to the Bay Area to make art, start bands,
of Antonioni’s Blow-Up, she met Henry in a nightclub in 1966. wait tables, and slack. For the young Swiss, anything-goes San
The couple moved to Lausanne. Yves was born in 1967. Francisco was a revelation. “It was a mind bend for me,” he said.
“It was so antithetical to the culture I had grown up in.” He lived in
The young Béhar immersed himself in science fiction and fan- the Tenderloin and swung through a series of gigs (“It was survival
tasy, absorbing the illustrations in Twenty Thousand Leagues Under time”), most notably at the Silicon Valley–based Lunar Design
the Sea and writing his own stories. “I tended to live in alternate and at Hartmut Esslinger’s Frog Design, the firm responsible for
worlds,” he said. In his teens, Yves began sewing his own clothes, developing the so-called Snow White design language for Apple
making eight-millimeter movies, and taking photographs. He computers in the 1980s. In terms of learning how design and tech
acquired a workbench and started banging together furniture might work together, he could not have landed at a better shop.

APRIL 2021 61

Yet Frog Design, Béhar concluded, “seemed counter to the idea need design; they were just what they were. “There was more
of design as an integrated experience”—the Eames dream. After packaging than design,” Béhar recalled, “meaning wrapping
a short-lived partnership with the designer Thomas Meyerhoffer, pretty skins around boxes.” The big game was furniture and
he established Fuseproject in 1999: “a studio that would fuse the home goods, centered around legacy Italian manufacturers—
disciplines of design at the service of an idea.” Integration would Cassina, Cappellini, Kartell, and Alessi. Curiously, some of
come before specialization, ideas before products. Béhar also had Fuseproject’s important early clients were from non-tech com-
another fusion in mind: European design and California tech. “I panies, who were fascinated by Béhar’s tech-design background
started to understand how technology was going to affect every and his ability to create complex, expressive forms. He designed
contemporary human experience,” he said, seeing this as a hinge a provocatively swaying shampoo bottle, of all things, that in
moment in history, one that could benefit from the humanizing 2001 won laurels from the design magazine I.D. “Suddenly,”
influence of design. (Fuseproject now has more than 75 employ- Béhar said, “we were on the map.”
ees and is based in a graffiti-art-covered building in Potrero Hill.)
BÉHAR’S BOLD OPTIMISM was apparent to all; his good looks and
At the time, Béhar said, European friends and designers surfer mien did wonders in uptight boardrooms. “There was
looked upon his project with skepticism. America was seen as nothing dark about Yves—ever,” Medda said of her impressions
a design backwater; the era of the Eameses, George Nelson, of Béhar as he ascended to star status and became a presence at
Eliot Noyes, and Raymond Loewy was long past; advertising and
marketing had taken over. Computers and tech gadgets didn’t

STUDIO VISIT

Yves Béhar, working out of the Fuseproject office in San Francisco’s
Potrero Hill neighborhood.

62 VA N I T Y F A I R

design fairs and in the pages of design and lifestyle magazines. against Béhar’s own dictum, “Good design removes complex-
“He had these incredible crystal-blue eyes. He looked like an ity from life.” A 2018 takedown piece in Fast Company derided
angel who fell from heaven.” And so Béhar became the face of Béhar’s “oversaturated celebrity.” The contrarian stance was
resurgent industrial design in the aughts, a proselytizer for a new surprising, given that magazine’s role in boosting Béhar’s
golden age. He predicted that companies unwilling to revivify name recognition with years of glowing coverage. Béhar might
their design DNA would be “left in the dust by companies that do.” be a tall poppy at design fairs, but compared to luminaries in

INTEGRATION WOULD COME BEFORE
SPECIALIZATION, IDEAS BEFORE PRODUCTS.

J O NA S F R E DWAL L K AR L S S O N . “I started to take some of what I had learned about technol- adjacent fields, such as Elon Musk, Frank Gehry, Philippe
ogy and how to integrate technology in products, and apply it Starck, Mark Zuckerberg, and Jeff Bezos, his celebrity is of
in areas that hadn’t seen it,” he said, an early example being fairly modest wattage.
his 2003 Birkenstock prototype Learning Shoe, recyclable
footwear with embedded computer chips that would allow When I alluded to the blowback, Béhar sidestepped the subject
the company to improve and customize the product based on with laid-back equanimity. But he did make an observation that
the wearer’s usage habits. Fuseproject was well situated and harkened back to his punk days. “At this stage, maybe I am an
conceived to feed off the utopianism, disruption, and sheer expert at the process of design,” he said, “meaning being okay
money spout of Silicon Valley, and Béhar became a default with things not working out.” The notion runs throughout Yves
designer for innovations. But it would be incorrect to assume Béhar: Designing Ideas, which, at times, is reminiscent of Moss
he’s a Silicon Valley cheerleader. Béhar has positioned him- Hart’s classic theater memoir, Act One, in which Hart tells the
self as a skeptical conscience, using his perch to frame moral excruciatingly Byzantine story of getting a play to the stage. In
imperatives and articulate humanistic positions. He has exco- his book, Béhar made sure to include, even highlight, failures,
riated social media for trapping users in “echo chambers and flops, and screwups. “The pretty picture at the end,” he said,
emotional deserts” and insisted that designers work “in such “doesn’t mean that much if you haven’t understood the full arc of
a way that we don’t become emotionally addicted to what we the struggle that it takes to bring a new experience to the world.”
create.” Béhar was hired to design equipment for Elizabeth
Holmes’s blood-testing start-up, Theranos; when the company’s If the measure of success, as implied by some of the critiques
problems came to light he labeled the enterprise a “fraud,” leveled at Béhar, is inventing the iPhone or achieving unicorn
an unsavory example of Silicon Valley’s rampant “hubris.” He status or, to go back to the greatest hits of American design, com-
sees artificial intelligence as a huge opportunity, but argues ing up with the first molded-fiberglass chair, then that’s a very
that its most meaningful application “will touch those with high bar. Charles Eames was in his 40s when he and his wife,
greater needs and lack of access”—in other words, it should Ray, unveiled that breakthrough chair design. Béhar, who had
be used to bridge the digital divide, not widen it by merely museum shows in his 30s and unveiled the XO Laptop at 40, is
providing distractions for the well off. still in his early 50s and will most likely be working for decades.
“Designers and architects don’t tend to retire,” he said. “They
Béhar’s projects can feel like inquiries into what is possible, tend to die at their desk.”
scouting missions into the next chapter of our existence, test
flights into the unknown. The speculative, futuristic nature of “MY HOPE IS that people can see that when technology is applied
his work is high-risk. “Certainty is not the way we engage in the with a humanist point of view it can make a tremendous differ-
world as designers,” he said. Inevitably there have been fails. ence for people,” Béhar told me. The traumas of 2020 sharpened
In 2014, Stephen Colbert mocked a Béhar-designed smart this aspect of his practice—design for the aging, the sick, the very
cup on air: “There’s so many times when Vessyl’s beverage- young, the marginalized. “Design resilience,” Béhar said, is now
identifying technology will come in handy, like when you order a central theme at Fuseproject. It means a focus on strong foun-
a Coke but it tastes kind of like a Diet Coke but you’re not dations and long-range planning—an antidote to short term–itis.
sure.” A $700 Wi-Fi-enabled juicer was lambasted as a useless, “We have a minimally viable product mentality in a lot of our
expensive gewgaw (Oprah Winfrey allegedly bought 365 of institutions,” he said, extending the critique beyond design. He
them for gifts), the kind of overwrought innovation that went is questioning projects and priorities C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 8 9

APRIL 2021 63

ON P
With bold taste, stylists on demand, and millions watching their game-day tunnel walks,
NBA players are serving some of the best—and some of the only—style for sore eyes
By L E A H FAY E C O O P E R | Illustration by J O H N P. D E S S E R E A U

64 VA N I T Y FA I R



SERGE IBAKA | LOS ANGELES CLIPPERS KELLY OUBRE JR .

“W some aspects of his style, like his signa- them ready not only for games, but for © 2021 NBAE/GETTY IMAGES.
ture slouch socks, were influenced by their day-to-day lives. I travel to what-
“WHAT DOES DEION Sanders say?” Chris what was popular when he was growing ever city they’re playing in once a month
Paul asks, somewhat rhetorically. “When up in North Carolina. After a trade last and put 30 days’ worth of looks together.
you look good you feel good? When you feel November that sent him from the Okla- Then I create a shared photo album with
good you play good? For me, fashion is homa City Thunder to Phoenix, he’s on flats of each look and include notes that
a representation of who I am. It makes the fifth team of his career and playing say, ‘Don’t forget to roll your cuff,’ or
me feel good to wear nice clothes.” The his 16th season. Throughout most of that ‘Push up your sleeve,’ or ‘Wear this outfit
Phoenix Suns point guard is on the phone time, though, he’s been working with with those glasses.’ ”
from his home in Arizona, checking off stylist Courtney Mays.
a list of his favorite labels: Fear of God, It was Mays who orchestrated Paul’s
Paul Smith, and the Swag Shop merch The two met when Mays was living in viral HBCU looks last summer. A few
by his good friend, rapper turned bar- New York, assisting stylist Rachel John- years ago, just before the 2018–2019
ber shop owner Killer Mike. “A lot of son, and Paul was playing for the New season, she bought him a Texas South-
the stuff that I wear is cozy—sweatsuits Orleans Hornets. (Johnson, who has ern University hoodie while shopping
and stuff like that,” he says, adding that worked with Paul, LeBron James, Amar’e at the school for her father, who’s an
Stoudemire, and numerous other ath- alum. When Paul wore it with a Stefan
letes, is widely credited with bridging the Grant outfit, fans and the press reacted
gap between luxury fashion and sports.) with high praise. “After that game we
After Paul was traded to the Los Angeles thought, How many of these schools can
Clippers in 2011, Mays moved to L.A. to he wear…and how can we amplify these
work with him full-time. institutions that ordinarily wouldn’t get
this much shine?” Mays says. The out-
“For Chris, I do 99.9 percent of his fits were among the most prominent
shopping,” says Mays, who now also looks worn in the 2020 NBA Bubble in
works with Brooklyn Nets center DeAn-
dre Jordan, and Kevin Love, who plays
center and power forward for the Cleve-
land Cavaliers. The job, she says, is
year-round, entailing lots of travel, strat-
egy, and organization. “I’m pulling
clothes throughout the year and getting

66 VA N I T Y FA I R

GO LD E N STAT E WA R RI OR S P.J. TUCKER | HOUST ON ROCKET S

“IT’S ACHANCE Florida, where, despite limited closet is going to fit him.” Both Mays and Michel
FOR ANYONE space, rules that barred stylists from vis- work with a number of brands and tailors
TO BE A STAR,” iting, and the absence of the pomp and to have looks customized for their clients,
CREATIVE circumstance that usually surrounds NBA Mays especially having to do this when
PRODUCER IAN games, players still brandished impres- styling Jordan, who’s 6 feet 11. “If I see
PIERNO SAYS OF sive wardrobes. something online or in a store that doesn’t
THE TUNNEL fit me, I’ll show it to her to see if there’s
WALKS THAT HE “Our equipment manager was great,” a way we can replicate it or get it in my
FEATURES ON says P.J. Tucker, who plays for the Hous- size,” says Jordan.
THE @LEAGUEFITS ton Rockets. “He knows how crazy I am
INSTAGRAM about my stuff, so he set it up so that my On the phone from D.C., where the
ACCOUNT. assistant could ship everything to me, Nets were playing the Wizards, Jordan
especially shoe-wise. I knew the 90 pairs describes his style as “Woodstock.” He
of sneakers I took with me weren’t going loves fedoras, long coats, and chunky
to last.” (For context, he owns upwards gold rings, and cites Greg Lauren and
of 5,000 pairs.) Mays sent Paul to Orlan- John Varvatos as designers he’s drawn to.
do with 10 duffels filled with pre-styled His current wardrobe is a far cry from the
outfits. When he needed more clothes, extra-long white tees and baggy jeans
she had pieces sent to an off-site location he was wearing when he first joined the
where they were sanitized, then picked league in 2008. “Looking back I’m like,
up by Paul’s security and delivered to his What was I wearing?…That was terrible,”
hotel room. “It was definitely a labor of he laughs. The look was very much
love,’’ she says. in style at the time though, and most
players can relate to the personal learn-
Bubble aside, one of the most laborious ing curve of developing an individual
parts of shopping as an NBA player or play-
er’s stylist is finding clothes that fit. “These
guys are not easy to shop for,” says Vick
Michel, the L.A.-based stylist who works
with Boston Celtics forward Jayson Tatum.
“Jayson is six-eight. You can’t just walk into
a department store and think everything

APRIL 2021 67

fashion sense when you go from being to wear it again, and I’m kind of mad at delight of the internet’s most fervent
a high schooler or college student to myself for that. I definitely need to get fashion fans, he’s back to wearing his Dior
professional basketball player overnight. more use out of it.” sneakers, Balmain sweaters, and Thom
Browne slacks. He insists that his move
“At the beginning of my first year, W HEREAS PLAYERS like from the Toronto Raptors to the Clippers
I didn’t really know what I liked or how I Tatum are fairly new to won’t have an impact on his style, as he’ll
was supposed to dress,” says Tatum, who having access to stylists still need his meme-worthy scarves for
entered the league at 19 in 2017. “It took and designer clothes— away games, and the Empire Customs
me a month or two honestly, and then and the salaries to theoretically buy out suits he had made up north are as time-
I just came to realize that fashion is all Bergdorf Goodman—fashion-enthused less as his collection of J.M. Weston shoes.
about what you like and what makes veterans have been amassing and wear-
you comfortable.” Having come into his ing luxury pieces for years, establishing Ibaka, along with Paul, Jordan, Tatum,
own with the help of Michel, he’s been themselves as style authorities and per- and Tucker, regularly appears on @league-
investing in hoodies, outerwear, and manent fixtures at fashion weeks. When fits, Slam magazine’s Instagram account
layering pieces that reflect his laid-back discussing his approach to dressing on dedicated to players’ game-day “fits”—
personality while keeping him warm in the phone, Serge Ibaka utters a phrase present-day fashion vernacular for a look
Boston. “For coats I love Louis Vuitton he’s used countless times to describe his that’s especially well-crafted or aspiration-
and Burberry,” he says, noting that one sartorial sensibilities. “I do art,” he says, al. “It took off way quicker than I thought
in particular stands out for sentimental explaining that the type of looks that it was going to,” says Ian Pierno, the Slam
reasons. “[I have] a Louis Vuitton let- landed him on Vanity Fair’s 2019 Best- social and creative producer who manages
terman jacket that I wore to the All-Star Dressed List were largely missing from the account, which launched in April 2018.
Game in Chicago [in 2020]. It was my the latter part of last season due to the “I think the main reason is because basket-
first All-Star Game, so it was a special demanding schedule of play in the bub- ball players got into it really fast. Right now
day for me. The only thing is, I’ve yet ble. “When I dress I like to take my time,” it’s at about 650,000 followers, but even
he says. “Like I say, I do art, so I have to
think. I kind of lost that in the bubble
because it was very stressful for me. Bas-
ketball was requiring so much focus. We
were playing almost every day; I didn’t
have time to do art in my mind.” To the

JAYSON TATUM | BO ST O N C E LT I C S DEANDRE JORDAN

68 VA N I T Y FA I R

when it was at 10,000 there were players “WHEN I DRESS like they’re trying too hard; that can pull
DM’ing me and sending me photos like, I LIKE TO TAKE off these absurd pieces,” he says. Among
‘Yo, can I get on here?’ ” MY TIME,” SAYS those who immediately come to mind
SERGE IBAKA. are Dwayne Bacon, Jordan Clarkson,
During the season, Pierno says, the “LIKE I SAY, I DO Kyle Kuzma, and PJ Washington. Those
account’s inbox is flooded with players ART, SO I HAVE who follow the account would likely add
sending photos of themselves. Some of TO THINK.” Russell Westbrook, Kelly Oubre Jr., Shai
them have his personal number and text Gilgeous-Alexander, and Ben Simmons
him. “I’ve had dudes send me pictures too. And James, and Carmelo Anthony.
and I’ve looked at the time and been And James Harden. And definitely Iman
like, ‘It’s halftime of your game—you’re Shumpert, now that he’s back from free
not even allowed to be on your phone agency. The list of players leaning into
now.’ ” The day I spoke to Tatum, a photo expressive and at times over-the-top fash-
of him arriving at TD Garden was posted ion is impossible to narrow down.
to the account, garnering 22,800 likes
and counting. He was dressed in a then T HIS FERVOR HAS resulted in huge
unreleased pair of Lost Daze cargo pants, branding moments, with tunnels
a Dream On hoodie, and a Margiela puffy across the NBA now being spon-
coat—a look styled by Michel. sored by the likes of Jet Blue,
Lexus, and Beats by Dre. More important
“It’s a chance for anyone to be a star,” to the players and stylists, though, is the
Pierno says of the tunnel walks that land visibility these walks down the so-called
on the page. “At the end of the day, there’s concrete runway draw to both social
only 24 guys that can be all-stars every justice issues and small, independent
year. [But] when you look at fashion, brands. Last summer, numerous players
there are so many guys that have carved showed up to games in T-shirts com-
out these larger roles in the basketball memorating George Floyd and Breonna
stratosphere just because they dress cool.” Taylor and calling for law enforcement to
There’s no method behind Pierno’s post- be held accountable for their deaths. And
ing decisions other than choosing the fits as the fashion C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 8 5
he’s most impressed by. “The guys that
really stand out are the ones that don’t look

B RO O K LY N NET S CHRIS PAUL | PH O E N I X SU N S

APRIL 2021 69

KELLYANNE CONWAY

and her husband,
GEORGE, have spent
the past several
years very publicly
divided. Now that
America is recovering
from Trump, can they?

U Nthe

70 VA N I T Y F A I R

TEof

By EVGENIA PERETZ

APRIL 2021 71

era that didn’t include the name “Trump” and the embodiment

of our divided country. Depending on where one stands politi-

cally, one half of the couple has represented all that was sound

and impressive; the other half has lost the plot. The Trump

ONCE UPON A TIME, presidency, which Kellyanne nurtured and George castigated,
resulted in nothing less horrific than the Capitol riot, in which five

people died and Mike Pence and other leaders

THE RELATIONSHIP could have been murdered. Their oldest daugh-
ter, Claudia, has channeled her own turmoil into
public view—rage mostly aimed at Kellyanne for

a range of issues. Claudia’s popularity on TikTok

HAD THE MAKINGS (1.7 million followers) landed her an invitation from American
Idol, where she appeared in mid-February. Her complaints about

her mother became so widespread that judge Katy Perry asked on

OF A GOP national TV, “Are you okay?…Does she still hug you?”
Friends have watched the Conway drama like a slow-moving

train wreck, sometimes too timid to really ask what’s going on.

As of late February, the Conways are still together, joined by

BELTWAY FAIRY TALE. 20 years of marriage and four children. But conversations with
numerous sources from both camps—yes, there are camps

with the Conways—reveal the couple to be in an extremely

fragile state, miles away from “closure.” The wounds are raw

from their public clashes. As important, they don’t have a mutual

grasp on what has just happened to the country, creating a high

IT WAS 1999. George Conway—then a partner at the powerhouse level of exasperation. George believes that Trumpism should

firm Wachtell, Lipton, Rosen & Katz—was riding on the now be eradicated from the planet. Kellyanne, on the other hand,

defunct Metroliner between New York and Washington. He continues on in explain-away-daddy mode, not giving an inch.

picked up a free copy of Capital Style magazine on board, and In a statement condemning the Capitol riot, she not only failed

there she was: Kellyanne Fitzpatrick, the bubbly Republican to acknowledge the role of Trump’s rhetoric, but also praised

pollster he’d seen on CNN & Company and a Washington 10. his leadership. Given every opportunity to amend or clarify that

He did something that was so out of step with his shy nature: He statement for this piece, she declined.

asked his friend Ann Coulter, who was featured in the same How did two extremely smart people allow the presidency of

article, to introduce them. They talked and talked that sum- one of the world’s most corrupt men to wreak such havoc on their

mer night. Kellyanne, it turned out, had grit too. Raised by a family, never mind the country? In the last four years, both George

casino-worker single mother, she had established her own poll- and Kellyanne leaned into different sides of a certain upright

ing company in an industry dominated by men. And she had a conservatism. George is a man who adheres to a certain rule-

cutting edge—the kind of woman who took her onetime boss, following propriety—which would suggest he might have held

pollster Frank Luntz, shopping and made him try on a Speedo his tongue while his wife was in the White House. But there’s

for laughs. From where Kellyanne sat, George was brilliant and another facet to George that overrides everything else. “George

had a certain cachet of his own, owing to the work he’d done has a deep commitment to what he feels is right,” says his former

assisting attorneys representing Paula Jones in her case against Wachtell colleague David Lat, a legal writer. “His commitment

Bill Clinton. Kellyanne and George fell in love. He was the one to doing and saying what’s right, combined with an enjoyment

person whose “near-constant presence doesn’t annoy me,” she of fame, have overcome the propriety-focused aspect of him.” P RE V I O U S S P RE AD : AP P H O TO / MAT T RO U R K E . W I N M C NAM E E / G E T T Y I MAGE S .

told a friend. They got married two years later in an enormous As for Kellyanne, she’s a paragon of loyalty, says Luntz, the kind

wedding, had four children, settled in Alpine, New Jersey, and “that you don’t find in Washington anymore.” But in the opinion

amassed a reported $39 million fortune. of many, that loyalty crossed the line to drinking the Kool-Aid.

Two decades later, the fairy tale has taken a harsh turn. “She fell into the cult,” says Michael Cohen, Trump’s ex-

Everything the Conways cared about—family, reputation, lawyer, who understands better than most the thrall of Trump.

country—appears to be in some state of triage. The world wit- “The biggest mistake that people make, Kellyanne included,

nessed the spectacular clash within the marriage play out publicly. is they start to believe that they are relevant,” says Cohen. “And

Kellyanne, who brought Donald Trump to victory in 2016 as his they begin to try to assume Trump’s arrogance.” Indeed, she

campaign manager, became, in her capacity as “counselor,” came to embody many Trumpian passions: winning, or talking

his fiercest defender—dodging and deflecting on his behalf about winning, a lot; shaming the naysayers; and never being

with dazzling ease. And though they started off friendly enough, wrong. Kellyanne did not push the “Stop the Steal” narrative

George became one of the president’s most biting critics, with that incited the riot; a month after the election, she finally

opinion pieces that shouted down Trump’s disregard for the rule acknowledged that Joe Biden won. Yet her ease at subverting

of law and tweets that pronounced him mentally unfit. George the truth during her tenure at the White House, her unshakable

and Kellyanne became the most visible marriage of the Trump righteousness, helped ease the way for the Big Lie.

72 VA N I T Y FA I R

FRIENDS IN LOW PLACES regular guest on Morning Joe, she praised Trump as “master-
ful,” and then, on one occasion, according to cohost Mika
Hope Hicks, Steve Bannon, and Kellyanne Brzezinski, took off her microphone and said, “Blech, I need
Conway arrive at the Capitol for to take a shower.” Morning Joe banned Kellyanne shortly
the 2017 inauguration of Donald Trump. thereafter. And then there was her bold gaslighting—like her
claim that “it was Donald Trump who put the issue [of Barack
Obama’s birth certificate] to rest” and her insistence that he

T HE PRIMARY SEASON of the 2016 election “doesn’t hurl personal insults.” If the smiling blond lady on
had been simpler times for Kellyanne television was saying it, it had to be true, right?
and George. As is well known, they were
working hand in hand. George was sup- Veteran Republican strategist Rick Tyler, who’d been Cruz’s
porting Ted Cruz, and Kellyanne was communications director, watched with amazement. “As a
running a super PAC for the Texas sena- spokesperson, you can omit things, you can highlight certain
things, you can reframe the conversation,” he says. “But when

tor, whose wife Trump had insulted and you say things that are flat-out wrong, that’s where I draw the

whose father, Trump insinuated, was in on the assassination of line. I’m not going to debase myself, because there’s life after this

President Kennedy. Kellyanne went after Trump, calling him client.” But Kellyanne had her champions—like Chris Christie,

the “thrice-married, non-churchgoing billionaire” who “says who over the course of their 18-year friendship bonded with her

he’s for the little guy but actually built a lot of his businesses on over their tough Italian mothers. He did debate prep with her in

the backs of the little guy.” He was, according to Kellyanne, both 2016 and 2020 and sees her as a messaging wizard.

“unpresidential,” “vulgar,” and offensive to women. “There’s very few people in political life who know how to use

By the summer of 2016, Trump was the Republican nominee language as effectively as Kellyanne and are more effective in

but hurting for female voters and in need of a campaign manag- communicating to President Trump,” says Christie. He says that

er. On the advice of Robert and Rebekah Mercer, the Cambridge when Trump was promising to refuse defeat in 2016, she told him

Analytica and Breitbart billionaires who’d shifted their sup- to go softer. Christie adds, “She’s not present in 2020. And I think

port from Cruz to Trump, he asked Kellyanne to become his her absence is very, very loud in this postelection period.” He

campaign manager. But he

wanted her on the cheap,

because he’s Trump.

Kellyanne was in. The

clout that would come with

being the first woman to win If it weren’t for Melania, suspects
a presidential campaign out-

weighed any remunerative one source, KELLYANNE
concern. Trump got a great
deal. Those pesky disavowals

of Trump she’d made? She’d might have been out in the first year.
blow them away like feath-

ers. She had a whole bag of

tricks at the ready. First there

was the double-dealing. As a

APRIL 2021 73

credits her for putting the opioid issue in front of President Trump, LOVE & MARRIAGE
which resulted in the bipartisan passage of the SUPPORT Act.
George Conway accompanies Kellyanne
Back in 2016, George was still very much in his wife’s corner. Conway to the 2018 White House
In the binary choice between Hillary Clinton and Trump, he Correspondents’ dinner.
cautiously supported Trump. As a member of the Federalist
Society, he prioritized getting conservatives on the Supreme
Court. For all of Trump’s obvious flaws, George then believed
that “[Trump] will realize that the office is something much big-
ger than him,” as he later told fellow Lincoln Project cofounder
Ron Steslow on a podcast, “and there are going to be these peo-

ple around him who will constrain him.” People, perhaps, like crowd-size lie that his wife was defending? What was that? he DOUGLAS CHRISTIAN/ZUMA WIRE.
his wife, on whom he clearly doted. On election night George wondered. The self-inflicted wounds piled up—Trump’s firing of
wept with pride for what she had achieved and screamed, “She FBI director James Comey; the fact that Trump came right out and
did it! She did it!” On Inauguration Night he stood aside and admitted that the firing was because of “this Russia thing.” George
held her fur coat while Kellyanne posed in a red gown, beam- saw that this was becoming, as he later put it in an interview with
ing for cameras. George got a bit swept up too. He threw his hat the podcast Skullduggery, “a shitshow in a dumpster fire.”
in the ring for the job of solicitor general. After that job went
to someone else, Attorney General Jeff Sessions asked if he’d In a gracious letter in May 2017, he took himself out of the
be interested in the job of assistant attorney general in the civil running for the Justice Department job. Out of respect for Kel-
division at the U.S. Department of Justice. Again, George agreed lyanne’s job, he kept his disdain from public view. In a follow-up
to be considered. He had spent decades working in the private tweet to one questioning the likelihood of the Muslim ban mak-
sector and was ready to serve his country. ing it past the Supreme Court, he wrote, “Just to be clear, in
response to inquiries, I still VERY, VERY STRONGLY support
Kellyanne, the winning campaign manager, was slipping POTUS, his Admin, policies, the executive order.”
into the position of the president’s counselor. As she liked
to point out, this meant she had walk-in privileges in the Meanwhile, the Trump White House was becoming the
Oval Office. But television was his favorite forum. As Trump MAGA Hunger Games—a battle for Trump’s approval. Kel-
watched the shows, Kellyanne pioneered new ways to dodge lyanne was at the white-hot center. There was one camp that
the truth—or run a truck over it—for his pleasure. When appreciated her willingness to defend Trump. “She went
NBC’s Chuck Todd took her to task on the assertion that the and did interviews that nobody else would do, and he always
president’s inauguration crowd size was the biggest in history, knew that he could count on her when everybody else ran
she famously retorted that she had “alternative facts,” and a for cover,” says Luntz. And then there were Jared Kushner
defining catchphrase was born. To defend Trump’s policies, and Ivanka Trump. During the campaign, Kushner already
she could go to bizarre places. When Trump tried to push the couldn’t stand that Kellyanne was taking credit for being the
Muslim ban, she talked about “the Bowling Green massacre,” campaign manager, according to multiple sources. He believed
an ostensible massacre in Kentucky carried out by Muslims. she did nothing of substance, that “campaign manager” was
She later claimed it was a slip of the tongue, even though she a made-up title designed to get a woman on television. On
cited it in three different outlets. one occasion, when Kellyanne was directing orders, Kushner
stepped into the conversation and chastised her. “You’re not
George—still in New Jersey with the kids and under review really the campaign manager,” he told her. “Stop telling people
for the Justice Department job—was becoming concerned about what to do.” By February 2017, he and Ivanka were whisper-
what was going on inside the Trump White House. The dumb ing to Trump at Mar-a-Lago about how insufferable she was,

74 V A N I T Y F A I R

according to a witness; they wanted her out. In Trump’s other her. And the president is going to be on board and we can flip

ear was Melania. According to an insider, the first lady was him.’ But if it seemed like it was going to be at all contentious,

Kellyanne’s chief ally and protector, and no fan of Javanka. If she was nowhere to be seen…. She wouldn’t stick her neck out

it weren’t for Melania, suspects this source, Kellyanne might until it was clear the president was going to have her back.” That

have been out of there in the first year. maneuver had real-world consequences. This official cites, for

Kellyanne was determined to come out on top. Her superpow- example, Trump’s response to the Parkland, Florida, shoot-

er, according to associates, was leaking to the press. While she ing. The White House might have tackled some form of gun

made a show inside the White House of needing to stop the leaks safety, particularly concerning children, had Kellyanne pushed.

and publicly bemoaned the “palace intrigue” stories, she herself Instead, the administration issued a tepid school-safety report

was a font, they say. White House communications aide Cliff that hardly mentioned guns. Similarly, she could have pushed

Sims, author of Team of Vipers, recalled the discovery he made Trump to permanently ax the family-separation policy. Instead,

one day while working on Kellyanne’s computer, at her behest, it was reinstated. If George had hoped his wife would be a tem-

to draft—yes, really—a refutation of Brzezinski’s claim that she’d pering influence inside the White House, she wasn’t.

privately dissed Trump. Kellyanne’s text message function had

been synced to the laptop, and up popped several real-time S TARTING IN 2017, a group of disaffected
exchanges she was having with journalists from the New York conservative politicians and pundits—
Times, The Washington Post, CNN, Politico, and Bloomberg. “As I including Evan McMullin, William Kristol,
sat there trying to type,” Sims wrote, “she bashed Jared Kushner, Mona Charen, and Max Boot—plus some
Reince Priebus, Steve Bannon, and Sean Spicer, all by name.” Democrats had begun meeting every two
Ronald Kessler, author of The Trump White House, was one such weeks to discuss how to protect the country

journalist who found himself listening to a leak session targeting from Trump. Some members, particularly

Priebus. He was so appalled by the mean-spirited nature of her younger ones, believed their jobs would be in jeopardy if they

words that he didn’t report them. Today Kessler says, “She settles were tagged as Never Trumpers, so it was a quiet alliance. Early

scores. It makes her more powerful to be the dispenser of infor- in the summer of 2018, George turned up. At first some won-

mation behind the scenes.” A source familiar with Kellyanne’s dered if he was a mole. One such skeptical member thought the

thinking disputes this characterization, rationalizing that “if she motivation soon became clear. After the announced retirement

were a leaker, it would be obvious because she knows so much.” of Supreme Court justice Anthony Kennedy, Trump nominated

Whatever the truth, Kellyanne’s reputation as a blabbermouth Brett Kavanaugh, darling of the Federalist Society, as his suc-

stuck, to the point where Kushner banned her from meetings. cessor. Three members of the group—Kristol, Charen, and Linda

Kellyanne’s balancing act was getting more challenging. Chavez—voiced their support for Kavanaugh. As the suspicious

According to associates, she needed to remain Trump’s biggest member speculates, “I think it was all a, ‘wink, wink. George is

champion while privately insisting to those in the real world—the going to go out there and help you stack the courts, but he’s going

world from whence she came—that she was a fellow sane person to separate from us….’ If he could get prominent Never Trumpers

who understood that Trump was a mess. In the company of cer- to support Kavanaugh’s nomination, then he would have been

tain White House people, she referred to Trump multiple times serving his party long-term.” The theory that the Conways were

as “a total fucking misogynist,” according to a senior official. In playing a long game—together—got traction on Twitter and

policy matters with moderate members of the administration, survives in some quarters to this day.

she presented herself as an ally, only to fold at clutch moments. But those who know George believe that theory to be

“There was almost always the calculus,” says this official. nonsense. “There’s no nefarious plot,” says his friend Molly

“There were moments when this was a really serious issue. ‘Do Jong-Fast, the liberal writer and pundit. “They worked this out

we have Kellyanne on our side or not?’ You’d say, ‘Okay, we got together? It’s not true. This is not some long con by George.”

Indeed, it became increasing-

ly hard to doubt the sincerity

of George’s words and pur-

pose. That same summer

George wrote an op-ed in

“There’s no nefarious plot,” says Lawfare defending the Muel-
ler investigation, a seeming

a friend. “ They worked this response to Trump bashing
it. As Trump’s affronts to the
law piled up—like the rev-

out together? It’s not true. This is not elation that he had paid off
Stormy Daniels—George

some long con by GEORGE.” made his disgust known on
Twitter. Meanwhile, Kelly-

anne was doing backflips on

television, pretending that

CONTINUED ON PAGE 87

APRIL 2021 75

For two and a half years, a gang of acrobatic thieves pulled off a string of

THE CASE

daring heists across Britain, lifting millions of dollars in rare books, artwork,

OF THE

and cash on a spree that stumped detectives from Scotland Yard to Romania.

PURLOINED

Marc Wortman cracks the so-called Mission: Impossible case

BOOKS

Illustration by SHAWN MARTINBROUGH Coloring by CHRISTOPHER SOTOMAYOR

76 VA N I T Y F A I R APRIL 2021



At Ward’s feet lay three open trunks, try to accomplish.” reconstituted team embarked on another
heavy-duty steel cases. They were emp- Then there was the loot. In a warehouse brazen high-wire raid on a warehouse.
ty. A few books lay strewn about. Those Many more would follow—a dozen, in
trunks had previously been full of books. laden with valuables coming in and out fact, mainly around London.
Not just any books. The missing ones, 240 of Heathrow for customs clearance, the
in all, included early versions of some of thieves had taken their time in the dark- Scotland Yard raced to follow leads—
the most significant printed works of ness, more than five hours, to select from and wondered where the burglars would
European history. among hundreds of books—choosing the strike next. The U.K. press, meanwhile,
most precious ones. They made off with remained focused on the Frontier For-
Gone was Albert Einstein’s own 1621 nothing else from the vast freight building warding break-in, dubbing it the “Mission:
copy of astronomer Johannes Kepler’s except for some nearby tote bags—heavy Impossible theft”—a tip of the hat to its
The Cosmic Mystery, in which he lays satchels that they snatched from another similarities with the movie’s iconic scene
out his theory of planetary motion. Also shipping container. Ward tells me on a in which Tom Cruise, as Ethan Hunt, sus-
missing was an important 1777 edition of call from London, “You must have a lot pended by a cable, breaks into a CIA vault.
Isaac Newton’s Mathematical Principles of patience, strength, and ingenuity not
of Natural Philosophy, his book describing to trigger the sensors and to get the books Ward could see these weren’t random
gravity and the laws of physics. Among back through that hole in the roof.” warehouse robberies. But why…books?
other rarities stolen: a 1497 update of the Someone must have tipped them off.
first book written about women, Con- The items belonged to three respected “They knew what they wanted,” he
cerning Famous Women; a 1569 version rare book dealers, two in Italy and one in says. “There were plenty of other valu-
of Dante’s Divine Comedy; and a sheath Germany. They had shipped their wares ables nearby. They targeted the books
with 80 celebrated prints by Goya. The through Heathrow, bound for an anti- deliberately.”
most valuable book in the haul was a quarian fair in California. Informed of the
1566 Latin edition of On the Revolutions heist that day, Alessandro Bisello Bado, The Met Police assigned organized
of the Heavenly Spheres, by Copernicus, a dealer in Padua whose shipment had crime specialist Andy Durham to oversee
in which he posits his world-changing been pilfered, nearly fainted. He board- the case while Ward and other detectives
theory that Earth and the other planets ed the next flight to London. Walking did what Durham calls the “grunt work.”
revolve around the sun. That copy alone inside the warehouse, he saw that nearly But they had little to go on. They even
had a price tag of $293,000. All together, everything in the trunk was gone, more checked to see if a circus had come to
the missing books—stolen on the night of than $1.2 million worth. Michael Kühn, a town, so acrobatic was the feat.
January 29, 2017, into early the next day— Berlin-based dealer, couldn’t believe it at
were valued at more than $3.4 million. first. “I had never heard of so many books T HERE ARE ANY number of reasons
Given their unique historical signifi- being stolen at once,” he says. Why these for someone to steal rare books.
cance and the fact that many contained books? he wonders. “Insurance fraud? They are alluring and beautiful,
handwritten notes by past owners, most Somebody who wanted to harm one of with an aura that connects the present to
were irreplaceable. us? A book lover who wanted to have one the past. Connoisseurs will pay unfath-
item and threw away the rest of the books omable sums for an iconic book. Last
Scotland Yard’s Ward was stunned. to cover his intentions?” All he knew was October, rare book collector and dealer
He couldn’t recall a burglary like this that his losses might bankrupt him. Stephan Loewentheil spent just under

78 VA N I T Y F A I R

THIEVES IN THE NIGHT
The bandits cut open a fiberglass skylight
and descended inside.

covet them simply to add luster to their
shelves. Ed Maggs, fifth-generation
co-owner of what is reputedly Queen
Elizabeth’s favorite bookstore, London’s
venerable Maggs Bros., tells me, “The
problem of the connoisseur book thief
is a real one.”

The most famous large-scale thefts
almost always take place over the span of
years. In 2012, more than 1,500 volumes—
including centuries-old editions of
Aristotle, Descartes,Galileo, and Machia-
velli, worth many millions—were found
to have been looted from the Baroque-
era Girolamini Library in Naples by the
library’s director. He and a large network
of accomplices went to jail for stealing and
auctioning off his pilfered books. Similar-
ly, the rare book archivist at the Carnegie
Library of Pittsburgh swiped 300-odd
books valued at around $8 million—but
it took him 25 years. He was convicted
in January 2020.

But Kühn says of the pre-dawn ware-
house heist, “Such a large number of
books had never been stolen at one time
before this. It was really unbelievable.”

For a while, the spectacular theft made duo reached the roof. They cut through was bare except for a whiteboard with
global headlines. Then came an unex- the skylight and, most likely using ropes multiple notes. Neither looked particu-
pected break from 1,500 miles away. or a folding ladder, made their way down. larly hardened, but Albu and Manea have
clashed many times with dangerous mob-
A LINA ALBU, ROMANIA’S chief Once inside, the two men went straight sters. Both speak fluent if broken English.
prosecutor for organized crime, for their quarry. They sorted through the Albu first heard of Popinciuc while tan-
was working one morning about books and picked the ones they wanted. gling with his fearsome “godfather,”
three weeks after the break-in when the They found a shipment of heavy-duty Ioan Clămparu. The crime boss was for
phone rang at her office in Bucharest. carrying bags, which were on their way several years Interpol’s most wanted fugi-
On the line was someone unknown to to oil field workers in Africa. They packed tive, with a bounty of $4.6 million on his
her. The caller, whose identity she won’t 16 full of books. Five hours and 15 minutes head. “He was a criminal star in Roma-
reveal, told her about a load of rare later, “they came out the way they came nia,” says Albu.
books that had been stolen from a Lon- in,” says Ward. The Renault sped away
don warehouse ending up in Romania. at 2:50 a.m. “An impressive day’s work,” Clămparu goes by a variety of nick-
Durham acknowledges. names, among them, “Pig Head”
“I thought he was joking,” she tells me. (probably derived from his thick neck,
As they spoke, she did an online search; Using license plate recognition cam- broad face, and 250-pound girth) and,
numerous articles popped up about the eras along the nearby roads, Ward was without irony, “Godfather.” (He had
theft, which had somehow escaped her able to identify the vehicle. A few days many other godsons beside Popinciuc,
attention. She began to take the caller’s later, the car turned up, abandoned in according to Albu.) Both Clămparu and
tip seriously when he spoke of three men South London. Although its papers were Popinciuc come from northeastern
he claimed were behind the raid. He used falsified, they listed the owner as a Roma- Romania, a remote area dotted with
their nicknames. Two were new to her, nian national living in England, but, says ancient towns and small farms border-
“Tizu” and “Blondie.” The other, she Ward, “Our analysts didn’t have him in ing the Republic of Moldova. It is among
says, “turned a flashlight on for me.” our databases.” He was happily surprised the poorest parts of Europe, and one of its
She hadn’t heard anything about “Cristi when Manea called. sources of income derives from criminal
Huidumă”—Cristi the Bruiser—in 15 years activities abroad.
but recalled his associations with a notori- S INCE THE FALL of the Berlin Wall,
ous organized crime case she’d worked. organized and often violent As a drunken teen, Clămparu punched
After investigating further, that afternoon criminal gangs from the former and stomped a man to death for no appar-
she telephoned Tiberius Manea, head of communist bloc, including Romania, ent reason, for which he served 10 years
organized crime investigations for the have branched out across Europe, in prison. After his release in 1999, he
national police. He’d already gone home developing large, profitable illicit organized one of the largest human traf-
for the day. “Tiberius,” she said, “come enterprises—operating protection rack- ficking and prostitution networks ever
back. We have a new case, a very big one.” ets and prostitution, drug, and burglary assembled in Europe. Clămparu and
rings. Vast amounts of illegally gained his lieutenants lured poor girls, some
Manea immediately started to assem- money flowing back into Romania as young as 15, from Romania and Mol-
ble a team that would work with Albu have also been a destabilizing force at dova with the promise of jobs in Spain.
for the next three years. With a passion home, thwarting government officials’ Once in Madrid, they were forced to
not unlike a collector in pursuit of a rare attempts to rein in the gangsters. Know- prostitute themselves in the alleys of
find, Albu tells me when we first meet via ing they had their work cut out for them, the city’s sprawling Casa de Campo park.
Zoom, “my goal was to recover the books. detectives from Scotland Yard started Albu contends that Clămparu’s pimps
I became obsessed.” to analyze the warehouse case with took 150 to 200 entrapped women on
their Romanian counterparts. Ward nightly rounds to the park to sell sexual
Manea reached out to Ward at Scot- and Durham first met with Manea and services. On occasion, she says, Clămparu
land Yard. He had already begun to make his associates at Europol’s headquarters and his pimps tortured those who resist-
some fitful progress in pulling the pieces in The Hague in late March 2017. They ed. “It was really violent,” she adds.
together. Ward watched some 70 hours opened a probe that eventually encom- Clămparu personally pocketed tens of
of video from the roadways around passed police forces in four countries. millions of euros.
Feltham. He finally saw footage showing The joint investigative team members
a blue Renault hatchback park at 9 p.m. would meet five more times in the Neth- In 2004, Romanian and Spanish
on January 29 on the road outside the erlands, Italy, the U.K., and Romania. police finally cracked “the Clămparu,”
warehouse complex. Ward says, “Nobody Acting on the source’s tip, Manea’s crew as his mob was known, thanks to a few
would think they were up to no good.” began undercover surveillance of Cristi women who escaped their handlers and
Two men exited the car and cut holes in Huidumă, whose real name is Gavril Pop- alerted the police. After the authorities
the perimeter fence. A third drove off; the inciuc (pop-in-chee-uk). moved in, Clămparu went underground
two others entered the grounds, making even as Albu indicted him, winning his
their way along freight roadways to the When Albu, Manea, and I spoke via conviction, in absentia, for human traf-
Frontier Forwarding building. Ward Zoom, Albu, aged 47, sat side by side at ficking. The Clămparu sent her numerous
speculates they climbed a drainpipe, but her desk with Manea, 42. Both wore black death threats, forcing her to retain body-
even now the police can’t be sure how the COVID masks. The wall behind them guards. “I was very young,” she says. “I
didn’t scare so easily.” Manea shrugs,

80 VA N I T Y FA I R

“Such scares come with the territory.” and foot soldiers,” Manea explains. “Pop- trio’s movements. On January 27, Opăriuc
In 2011, Spanish authorities tracked inciuc was almost never in the field.” and David had flown from Iasi, Romania,
down Clămparu. Now 52, he’s serving a Most of the gang, says Albu, led “double to London’s Luton Airport. They drove
30-year sentence in a Romanian prison. lives,” living with their families, even in Popescu’s Renault to South London,
Albu wondered whether Popinciuc hadn’t maintaining accounts on social media, where they remained until the evening of
revived the Clămparu. punctuated by quick “business trips” to the 29th, the night of the break-in.
carry out crimes outside Romania.
In fact, Popinciuc, who is only five Cell records show that once inside the
years younger than his godfather, had A LBU AND MANEA soon under- building, Opăriuc placed several calls to
purportedly formed his own mob and, to stood how Popinciuc and Cristian Ungureanu, who had flown to
stay ahead of the police, studied the fail- Ungureanu ran the crime syndi- London the previous day. He, in turn,
ings of the Clămparu. Popinciuc comes cate, but they didn’t know who the foot relayed information to Popinciuc and
from the small northeastern city of soldiers were. Then they got another then called Marian Mamaliga, another
Suceava, where a handsomely preserved lucky break. On March 28, 2017, regional gang member who was in Romania.
medieval castle draws tourists. Pudgy, Romanian police stopped a van driving Mamaliga then left in a van for England.
with the bemused look of a weary office through the northeastern part of the On February 1, two days after the books
clerk, he kept his criminal enterprises country. The driver, Narcis Popescu, were stolen, Ilie Ungureanu flew in from
mobile to avoid capture. By 2009, he was had new laptops and smartphones with Germany, then four days after that, with
a leader in a multinational counterfeit him. He claimed to have bought them Mamaliga, he drove the book-laden van
cigarette ring. The group moved its fac- in England. Asked to show a proof of through the Eurotunnel. A week after
tories, warehouses, and tobacco stocks purchase, Popescu needed to have an the robbery, the books had disappeared
frequently, even among countries, but invoice sent to his phone from a retailer somewhere in Romania, but not before a
Romanian authorities smashed the in the U.K. Popescu produced a receipt. fresh set of thieves had struck yet anoth-
operation. In 2015, Popinciuc received But the police had already traced the er warehouse, this time making off with
a suspended sentence for tax evasion. items’ serial numbers back to a theft around $37,000 in cash.
Wealthy from lucrative cigarette sales, from an English warehouse just two
Popinciuc, according to Albu, built sev- weeks earlier. According to Albu, within a year she
eral legitimate businesses. They include and Manea knew the identities of virtually
a large hotel, restaurant, and event hall This random roadway arrest helped all the members of the gang. But she says
complex in Suceava, though they report- shape the hunt for the gang members. the police were hesitant to arrest them
edly now belong to his ex-wife. Albu says Meanwhile, other evidence bubbled up. without definitive evidence. “It’s not what
that Popinciuc is the one who put up the Ward and his analysts took DNA from a you know,” Manea says, “it’s what you can
money that financed the warehouse piece of metal, possibly a ladder rung, left prove.” They were also worried that if they
raiders’ operations in England and built in the Frontier Forwarding warehouse. moved in too soon, the books might never
the crew that pulled off the heists. Manea’s police used it to identify Daniel turn up. Albu tells me that she feared that
David. According to Albu, he turned out if the men expected their imminent arrest,
In Albu’s view, Popinciuc teamed to be the one that her source called Tizu. “they might burn the books.”
up with another Romanian, Cristian Genetic findings from the abandoned
Ungureanu, 41, who acted as operations Renault matched up with Popescu. The As the months progressed, revolving
chief. The two men and their lieutenants identity of the second of the two Fron- teams shuttled through England, com-
masterminded a gang that sent small tier Forwarding raiders—Victor Opăriuc, mitting 12 sophisticated and precariously
skilled teams to hit targets exclusively a.k.a. Blondie—emerged from tracing the acrobatic warehouse burglaries. Typi-
outside Romania, figuring that foreign others’ movements. According to Albu, cally, the raiders came through the roof,
detectives would never trace them back. Opăriuc, 29, and David, 37, were particu- but for some thefts, they cut open neigh-
To act as local operatives, Popinciuc larly agile, strong, and adept at climbing boring buildings, leaving gaping holes in
brought on his younger brother Marian in and out of warehouses. walls and ceilings to avoid alarmed doors,
Albu (no relation to Alina Albu) and other security guards, and camera detection.
Romanians living in England. Also join- Using cell phone tracking and airline “They never attacked a building straight
ing in: Ungureanu’s younger brother, Ilie, flight data, Scotland Yard retraced the on,” Durham says.
living in Germany. “There were leaders
Each heist, according to Albu, Manea,
Durham, Ward, and court transcripts,

She hadn’t heard anything about CRISTI THE BRUISER
in 15 years. “TIBERIUS,” she said,

“come back. We have a new case. A VERY BIG ONE.”

APRIL 2021 81

went off like clockwork. Cristian representatives from the joint inves- In her opening presentation to the
Ungureanu was on hand to coordinate tigative team as well as officials from court, prosecutor Catherine Farrelly
ops. Popinciuc monitored from afar. Europol and Europe’s judicial coordinat- accused the defendants of stealing the
Popescu served as the gang’s travel ing body, Eurojust. Before dawn, more rare books for profit. In a voice drip-
agent, booking plane tickets and leas- than 150 police and judicial officials ping with sarcasm, she asked about the
ing housing for the revolving cast of fanned out simultaneously to search Romanian defendants’ motives: “Were
accomplices. A van arrived, the loot was 45 houses and other sites in England, they going to pop back to the U.K., hun-
loaded, and the entire enterprise van- Italy, Germany, and Romania. By the gry for a spot of learning and have a dip
ished. “Everybody had his part, each end of the next day, Popinciuc, Opăriuc, into Sir Isaac Newton’s 17th-century
his role,” Durham tells me. For two and David, Mamaliga, and Popescu, along work Mathematical Principles of Natural
a half years, they got away with their with three other gang members, were Philosophy or spend some time appreciat-
disciplined, complex burglaries, like a led off in handcuffs in Romania; Ilie ing the Spanish painter Francisco Goya’s
Bucharest-based Ocean’s Eleven. Ungureanu was arrested in Germany; genius by flicking through some of his
Marian Albu and two other alleged asso- 19th-century etchings?”
They stole books. They stole cash. ciates were taken in England. Cristian
They stole jewelry, laptops, tablets, Ungureanu went underground. He was Then suddenly, the proceedings
smartphones, and clothes. Some got finally arrested in Turin, Italy, in January crashed to a halt—due to the pandemic.
fenced in the U.K., some went to Roma- 2020. The men were brought to England With space needed for 13 defendants and
nia and were sold, and other items were for trial. All pleaded innocent. about 25 attorneys, as well as interpret-
sold online. In total, the thieves raked in ers, witnesses, prosecutors, judge, jury,
nearly $5 million worth of goods. They But the books still hadn’t been found. guards, court staff, and press, a court-
also left behind a trail of destruction, room the size of an arena would have
damaging warehouse structures and T HE TRIAL BEGAN on February been necessary for the trial to continue
leaving businesses in disarray. 20, 2020, at the Kingston Crown safely. The men were sent to prison to
Court, a short drive from the await the time when they could return
F INALLY, ON JUNE 25, 2019, almost warehouse that brought the men such to court. There they languished. Attiq
two and a half years after the rare notoriety. Albu, Manea, and their team Malik, a prominent and pricey crimi-
books were stolen, came what came to London. Ward and Manea were nal defense solicitor—well known in
investigators dubbed Z-Day. Gather- slated to be called to give evidence. the U.K. for his appearances on the hit
ing at a high-tech command center None of the defendants was willing—or British series 24 Hours in Police Custody—
inside Europol Headquarters were obligated—to testify. represents Popinciuc. “Even if we won
the case,” he tells me, “they would have

The crime boss was “A CRIMINAL STAR
in Romania,” going by a variety of nicknames, among them

“PIG HEAD” and “GODFATHER.”

been in prison for another year.” All the month and could reveal details about the suspected, and Scotland Yard confirmed,
men except one decided to plead guilty gang’s operations that have yet to come that they were the ones who might have
rather than sit in jail indefinitely. to light. Albu speculates that someone, stashed the lot. On September 16, 2020,
perhaps a shipping industry insider, may with the defendants’ sentencing just days
This fall, the men returned to court via have hacked freight insurance databases away, Manea led his team on a search of
remote hookups from prison to receive that clued the burglary teams in to the a large new house the brothers had con-
their sentences. Judge Jonathan Davies presence of lucrative targets. structed next to their parents’ home in
said, “Each [of you] joined and played a the northeastern Romanian countryside.
part in a criminal enterprise carried out Still, the question remains: Why books? The other officers watched while a jack-
with skill and determination…. [You] Booksellers can be a pessimistic lot, often hammer broke apart a six-inch slab laid
took risks with [your] eyes open.” He expressing a view that the last word on over the garage floor. Manea shoveled
added that this “was a carefully planned their business may soon be written. “As a away the debris and lifted a board. “It
operation, often carried out with Mission: rare book dealer myself,” laments Rebec- was very tense,” he recalls. “I was really
Impossible skill.” With a reduction for pan- ca Romney, whom TV viewers know from worried about damaging the books. We
demic conditions, he then meted out the the History channel program Pawn Stars, had worked so long and hard to arrive at
lightest sentences to the “foot soldiers”: “I’m aware of the unfortunate truth that that moment.”
three years and seven months for David rare books, while of immense cultural
and Opăriuc, four years for Mamaliga. value, are much more difficult to sell than And there they were. He climbed into a
The stiffest terms went to the “brains” laptops.” Ed Maggs, the London book- bunker dug about six feet underground to
behind the heists. Cristian Ungureanu seller, agrees. “This,” he tells me, “was lift out the books. Most were packed into
received five years and one month; Pop- the smartest and the dumbest robbery recycling bins; others had been left in the
inciuc, the financial “muscle” and boss, ever. Smart because of all the Mission: bags. The following day the booksellers
got five years and eight months. All the Impossible business with ropes, and dumb flew to Bucharest to recover their belong-
men face confiscation of assets as well. because there are few objects of value that ings, which were moved to the National
Throughout the ordeal, the gang has are less fungible than rare books.” Library. Most of the books remained in
stayed mum about how and why they sterling condition. Some had suffered
chose their targets. Cops seem to have a rosier outlook on moisture damage or had broken spines or
prospects for the illicit rare book trade. stains, though nearly all were reparable.
The police remain uncertain about “There is,” says Ward, “always a mar- Only four books were still missing, one
whether an insider had helped them ket for items of curiosity.” (Indeed, in worth $34,000, though none was among
on the Frontier Forwarding job. “The recent months there has been a rash of the most valuable.
books,” Ward says, “were only sup- thefts from London rare book dealers.)
posed to be in the warehouse for less than Durham speculates that the Heathrow- Bisello Bado, arriving from Padua,
24 hours. That’s too much of a coinci- area heist might have been “ordered by walked into the National Library where
the top of this organized crime group,” each of his books was laid out on shelves
HOT TYPE because he or someone he knew wanted in a climate-controlled room. “I had giv-
The heavy-duty steel cases were empty, the rare treasures. Or the books might en up hope,” he says. “When I saw them,
their literary treasures gone—240 in all. have been intended to serve as collateral I felt like the youngest book dealer in the
or as a sort of criminal insurance policy. world. They were fantastic books.”
dence that they attacked this warehouse.” Some syndicates, Durham says, “want to
Adds Albu, “We think they had intel- have possession of culturally important That evening, the book dealers, the
ligence about the value of goods. They valuables to offer up to assist in getting a entire Romanian investigative squad,
expected to find jewelry or something lesser sentence” should they get caught and the English team members on hand
else of great value, but they found the for other crimes. celebrated over dinner at a Bucharest res-
books instead”—simply stumbling upon taurant. “Tonight,” an elated Bisello Bado
a cultural treasure chest. She believes “it A ND WHAT ABOUT thestolenbooks? told the gathering, “we drink like lions!”
was a surprise for them.” Just as happens in the best books,
our story has a happy ending. Seeing the dealers’ joy at regaining
One of the defendants held out, Once the roles of the Ungureanu their treasured books “was our reward,”
determined to go to court and prove his brothers came to light, Albu and Manea says Manea. Even through her mask, I can
innocence. His trial is set to resume this see Albu smile when she recalls, “I never
stopped believing we would bring them
back their books. Never.” Q

APRIL 2021 83

Opening Moves (High among the show’s pleasures is the “Yes. Yeah. Her waking up in Paris was
thoughtfulness that costume designer really very close.”
C ON T I N U E D F RO M PAG E 4 0 un-COVID- Gabriele Binder brought to Beth’s clothes.)
like intimacy against its first, most powerful The erotics of all this have been much dis- She’s referring to the dramatic flash-for-
weapon—its heroine’s face. Her gaze is one cussed and celebrated. Nikita Lalwani, a ward that opens the series: Beth awakens
of focused ferocity and avidity. At times former high school chess player—in her with a horrified lurch at the insistent knock-
Beth seems incandescent with self-belief: words, “an oddity as the only girl in the ing of a porter who’s come to summon her to
She is a genius and she knows it. I would school team”—is a novelist whose 2007 her match downstairs. At the moment, Beth
not describe the young woman I talked debut, Gifted, follows the story of a teen- is in a bathtub, fully clothed and soaked,
to with the luminous skin and the orchids age-girl math prodigy. Naturally, Lalwani after a drunken night.
behind her as a ruffian, as she herself did, watched the show with great interest. Much
but you can’t ignore the current of wildness of it rang true, she told me, but “combining “Been there,” Taylor-Joy says grimly,
in so many of her performances, not least the extreme geek sensibility with a fierce not ready to talk about it in more detail.
Beth. As her large black eyes shift and slide, unapologetic sexual presence was some- “Been there.”
something feral and a bit frightening crack- thing new for me.”
les within her poise. Has she been able to let Beth go?
“We used to joke on set that we were “You’re hitting me in the heart,” Taylor-
The Queen’s Gambit is based on Walter bringing sexy back to chess,” says Taylor- Joy says. “It’s complicated. I don’t know.
Tevis’s 1983 novel of the same name, which Joy. “We didn’t really think that that’s what Different characters have different griev-
Taylor-Joy consumed with a sense of intoxi- people would actually think. I love the fact ing periods. Some of them don’t ever really
cation. This in itself wasn’t too unusual; she that people are like, Yeah, I’m going to go go away. I have a feeling Beth is going to be
reads about three books a week. Right now play this guy at chess, it’s going to be really one of those ones.”
it’s Glennon Doyle’s Untamed and Pamela hot.” She adds, laughing, “I’m living for it.”
Des Barres’s groupie memoir, I’m With the Famously, sales of chess sets soared by 125 “HI, LOVE!” TAYLOR-JOY sings out. We’re
Band, but Taylor-Joy also enthuses about percent in the weeks after the show pre- meeting for the second time, and now it’s in
that other dishy memoirist and West Coast miered. “This is what I mean about how I “Joe Biden’s America,” a phrase that’s been
queen, Eve Babitz. “Once I learned how to think in five years I’ll understand!” Taylor- playing through my head half hopefully, half
read—I’m sure it was the same with you— Joy peals. “I don’t think you can be an even ironically. Taylor-Joy tells me that she and a
I was off,” she tells me. “I was just never kind of sane person and be walking around, bunch of castmates from the David O. Rus-
bored or lonely again.” What made her like”—she does a parodic hair flip of self- sell movie watched the inauguration in the
experience of the Tevis novel unusual was satisfaction and puts on a haughty voice to makeup trailer. The sense of optimism, she
a sense of recognition: “The second I closed intone—“I have reinvigorated the game of says, was beautiful.
the book, it was this dawning of, I’m going to chess!” Just that morning, one of her best
have to give this character so much of myself friends had told her that their boyfriend was “This feels like the intake of a fresh
in order to tell the story right.” playing on chess.com against a Beth bot. A breath,” she says, adding, “For the love of
what now? “Oh, yeah, on chess.com you can God, I would love it if we could start taking
Straight off, Taylor-Joy had what felt like play Beth Harmon at different ages.” (The care of the planet.”
a flash of insight: Beth had to have red hair. Beth bots have, alas, been disabled.)
This intuition was shared by cocreator and The Bernie memes are still flying after
director Frank, as well as the show’s hair At the heart of The Queen’s Gambit is an a photograph of the Vermont senator look-
and makeup designer, Daniel Parker. Tay- almost childlike truth—one true, at least, ing stalwart and chilly at the inauguration
lor-Joy also lit upon a distinctive way that of chess: Talent will take you to the top. seized the American imagination. On her
Beth would handle the chess pieces. When Life, of course, ain’t like that. Least of all Instagram Stories, Taylor-Joy has just post-
she demonstrated it to Bruce Pandolfini, the oversubscribed, fickle world of movie- ed a still of the final match of The Queen’s
a 73-year-old chess expert who consulted making, in which talent is notoriously little Gambit, except instead of the formidable
on the show, he told her he’d never seen a guarantee of success. I ask Taylor-Joy how Russian player Borgov, Beth’s facing off
player do it before, but hey, he bought it. The she squares the immeasurability and sub- with Bernie in his mittens. Is she a Sanders
way Beth summarily fishes a clacking piece jectivity of acting with the binary nature fan? “Yeah, absolutely,” she says. “Primar-
up into her palm with an elegant twist of the of chess: black and white, win or lose. Her ily because he cares about the planet. He
wrist becomes something of a signature—a answer is humble: “I’ve always followed the was the first world leader that I saw really
satisfying, haptic flourish. character.” Earlier, when she said, “They’re jump up and be like”—she mimes a frantic
not my hands,” she meant it. “It gets a bit wave—“Hello? Our home is burning. We
Accruing cash and confidence from her existentially confusing when you’re living should probably do something about that.”
wins, Beth becomes an increasingly styl- for somebody else.” Taylor-Joy’s charac-
ish and sexual being; soon our erstwhile ters are real enough for her to mourn their Taylor-Joy has come of age at an excep-
ugly duckling is swanning through grand loss once filming has wrapped. For nearly tional time. While dire and interlocking
European hotels in chic tailored dresses— each one she keeps some article of theirs crises occupy the world at large, the Ameri-
homages to Courrèges and Pierre Cardin. as a memento. In the case of Beth, it seems can movie industry has been undergoing
telling that Taylor-Joy kept not one thing, an overdue reckoning with racism and
but many: several hats, various outfits. misogyny. “I didn’t realize just how lucky
I was until maybe year three,” she admits
“She’s a voice that I’ve had in my head when I broach the subject of sexism. “But
and in my life for a very long time,” she says, I’ve been blessed to work with men who
adding, “There were some scenes that were never made me feel like I didn’t have a
just so close to the bone. They were expe- seat at the table. I was always treated as
riences that I had had, or that I had been a serious collaborator and somebody that
witness to and it was so real.” was as passionate as the director was about
executing this vision.” Nonetheless, she
I ask whether there was one scene that found the four years of the previous admin-
got particularly close. istration, including its grotesque misogyny,
hard to take: “It was just like, Wait a sec-
ond, am I in the minority in believing that

84 VA N I T Y FA I R





Opening Moves On Point brands, has been an obvious choice. In the
past he’s worked with Ovadia and Giuseppe
everybody should have equal rights? Am C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 6 9 industry grap- Zanotti, and last month he released a collec-
I in the minority of believing that you ples with significant financial losses and tion of sunglasses with Temples & Bridges.
shouldn’t touch a woman if she doesn’t give an uncertain future, having a player photo- “It was a natural progression with where I
you her permission?” graphed in an emerging label can catapult was going with my style and brand,” he says,
the brand to mainstream recognition and adding that accessories are an essential
After our interviews, both Taylor-Joy and substantially increase sales. Two T-shirts component of his style.
The Queen’s Gambit will win Golden Globes. worn by Tatum in the bubble—one by
I ask how she’s dealing with the buzz ahead Believe in Yourself printed with an I Love Before leaving Toronto, Ibaka partnered
of time. “Is it awful to say I don’t think about New York logo and another that read “Fight with Canadian outerwear brand Nobis to
it?” she says quietly. “Look, any kind of rec- the Power” by Diet Starts Monday—sold out design a nine-piece collection. “The only
ognition for your work is wonderful and within minutes of being tagged in Instagram way I wanted to design something was if they
truly moving, but I have to show up for my photos. “It was such a great feeling know- let me do my own thing and bring my own
movie and my director and my friends. If ing that JT was a part of that,” Michel says. flavor,” he says. “They said they’d let me do
I were consistently thinking about things whatever I wanted, so I said okay, perfect. We
like that, I don’t know how healthy my mind Fashion labels are increasingly recogniz- started everything from scratch.” Previously,
would be.” ing the influence of NBA athletes, reaching he hosted a fashion and shopping show at lux-
out to dress them and tapping them to design ury retailer Holt Renfrew coined Avec Classe.
But she has an important clarification. capsule collections. Tucker, whose expan-
“I want to be quite clear about something, sive wardrobe is filled with Loewe, Bode, “I think it’s extremely powerful,” Mays
which is when I say, ‘I walk away’ or ‘I don’t Versace, and a laundry list of streetwear says of the growing synergy between fash-
think about it anymore,’ it’s never because ion and the NBA. “We’re seeing a bunch of
I’m ungrateful for any of it. I just really think Black and brown men looking good and feel-
that I won’t be able to do my best work if ing good, and also elevating themselves and
I start believing I’m anything more than fashion brands to another level.”
human, because people watch characters
for the humanity.” In short, the point of Players and stylists agree that that feel-
stars is not just that they’re looked at. “You good energy is priceless.
have to have a connection to real life. If you
don’t have a true heart and a true place of “Dressing well inflicts a lot of confi-
emotions to come from, how on earth are dence,” Michel says. “Even if you’re one of
you going to give life to a character?” Q the bench players, if you like what you’re
wearing, you’re like, ‘You know what? I look
good. I might even get in the game tonight.
I might score 30!’ ” Q

Bitcoin Billionaire Hours later Audrey Strauss, the act- manipulation, and abusive practices related
ing U.S. attorney for the Southern District to the sale of futures and options—filed a
C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 4 9 many people of New York, and William F. Sweeney Jr., civil suit against BitMEX and its founders
Arthur is like a cult figure,” she said. “He head of the FBI’s New York field office, for operating an unregistered trading plat-
believed that we [the crypto crowd] were announced the indictment of BitMEX’s form and failing to implement required
going to change the world. He believed in founders—Hayes, Delo, and Reed—along anti-money-laundering procedures.
the monetary revolution. He believed that with their close friend and first hire, Gregory
what we’re doing as an industry is profound. Dwyer. The men were charged with vio- The criminal case has stunned legal
But he also believed that it should be fun and lating and conspiring to violate the Bank observers. “I’m not aware—and I’ve done
it should be irreverent, and we should be Secrecy Act “by willfully failing to establish, this for a really long time—of any other
able to laugh at ourselves and that we should implement, and maintain an adequate anti- criminal indictment, and certainly not one
be able to call out the bullshit.” money-laundering program.” Each count targeting individuals, that is solely based
carries a maximum penalty of five years on anti-money-laundering program fail-
COUP DE GRÂCE behind bars. Reed, the only defendant in the ures,” maintained Laurel Loomis Rimon,
U.S. at the time, was released after posting a an expert in financial crimes who spent
At 6 a.m. on the morning of October 1, 2020, $5 million bond and agreeing to surrender 16 years with the Justice Department and
FBI agents pulled up to a large colonial in a his passport. prosecuted its very first digital-currency
comfortable Boston suburb. Records show case. Now in private practice at O’Melveny
the house had been purchased a year before Sweeney went out of his way to lambast & Myers, she advises cryptocurrency and
by a Delaware LLC. The property’s real own- Hayes: “One defendant went as far as to brag blockchain companies. Like other DOJ
er, Sam Reed, was taken away in handcuffs. the company incorporated in a jurisdiction veterans I spoke with, she was struck by the
outside the U.S. because bribing regulators absence of more substantive charges. “In
in that jurisdiction cost just ‘a coconut.’ ” He an indictment you usually see allegations of
warned that “they will soon learn the price specific criminal activity, whether it’s fraud,
of their alleged crimes will not be paid with credit card theft, child pornography, terror-
tropical fruit, but rather could result in fines, ist financing. You don’t see any allegation
restitution, and federal prison time.” of any of those things in this indictment.”
(It is, of course, possible that prosecutors—
Roubini had been sounding the alarm for who obtained roughly 100,000 pages of
well over a year—and in October, the feds BitMEX documents in the course of their
answered. But it was not just the Justice investigation—could file a superseding
Department. The CFTC—which protects indictment, tacking on additional charges
retail and institutional investors from fraud,

APRIL 2021 85

Bitcoin Billionaire in the wider crypto community. Some feel “Certainly not when you’re talking about
strongly that the game is rigged. “Show me program violations as opposed to evidence of
should they find it warranted. The Southern a bank that doesn’t have money-laundering actual money laundering. So that is unusual.
District U.S. Attorney’s office, for its part, violations and I’ll show you a piggy bank,” And I think it’s intentional. I think there was a
declined to answer questions Vanity Fair Jehan Chu told me. “It’s a double standard. decision by the government [here] to do that,
posed about the case.) Who went to jail from HSBC for their money to send a message.”
laundering and, you know, their Iran deals
By contrast, when the Justice Department and all these kinds of sanctions violations? Deterrence is certainly an important
went after another crypto-trading plat- They got fined.” He’s not wrong. After HSBC component of the American criminal jus-
form, called BTC-e, in 2017, it did so with a admitted to laundering nearly a billion dol- tice system. But so, too, is prosecutorial
21-count indictment for, among other things, lars for the Sinaloa cartel and moving money discretion. Whether it involves big banks
identity theft and facilitating drug traffick- for sanctioned customers in Cuba, Iran, or even big pharmaceutical companies
ing, as well as helping to launder money for Libya, Sudan, and Myanmar, the Justice like Purdue—whose owners, members of
criminal syndicates—including those alleg- Department elected not to indict the bank the Sackler family, have been accused of
edly responsible for the Mt. Gox hack. With or its officials, instead having it pay a $1.92 knowingly addicting millions of Ameri-
BitMEX, Rimon argued, U.S. authorities billion fine and install a court-appointed cans, resulting in hundreds of thousands
trained their sights on the founders of the compliance monitor. of deaths (which the Sacklers deny)—Chu
biggest, flashiest player in the digital-asset echoed the sentiments of many when he
derivatives space to send a message to the That was hardly an aberration. Barclays, described a gentleman’s agreement: “You
entire crypto community: “We’re going to BNP Paribas, Credit Suisse, Deutsche Bank, have an elite class of multinational corpora-
make sure you understand this industry is ING, Lloyds Banking Group, Royal Bank of tions in business who are very well versed
subject to our jurisdiction.” Scotland, and Standard Chartered have at dealing with their counterparties in gov-
all paid fines for conduct that has included ernment. It’s not a quid pro quo, but it is a
As for the civil suit, a source familiar with money laundering, sanctions violations, working relationship, which includes, you
the government’s thinking said that BitMEX and massive tax fraud. In the world of high know, illegality and enforcement as part
failed to thread the needle and operate finance, charging corporate officers in their of the choreography. And it’s literally cho-
within “an exception to an exception” to individual capacity is rare. “You can Google reographed. Nobody’s getting perp-walked
the CFTC’s jurisdiction. An unregistered ‘JPMorgan’ and ‘fraud’ and look at what from the Sacklers. But you can be sure that
exchange like BitMEX, in fact, is allowed comes up,” Hartej Singh Sawhney suggested. happens to people in crypto.”
to sell leveraged commodities to American “Wells Fargo, JPMorgan, Goldman Sachs—
retail investors. But it has to complete those they have pleaded guilty to fraud. And yet “I can push back on that—big time,”
transactions within 28 days. The problem none of their sentences or fines are nearly replied former CFTC chairman Giancarlo.
is that some of BitMEX’s most popular as bad as what we’re looking at for Arthur.” “The CFTC has been no slouch in mak-
products—called perpetual swaps—were ing referrals for criminal action.” He cited
designed not to expire and to instead allow In fact, 48 hours before the charges Refco and Peregrine Financial as examples
people to keep their trading positions open. against Hayes and his partners were where, at the commission’s urging, the Jus-
In short, Hayes, Delo, and Reed—three announced, JPMorgan Chase “entered tice Department charged CEOs who later
savvy guys with plenty of high-priced legal into a resolution”—as it was euphemisti- received lengthy prison terms. (The CFTC
help—fell prey to a 1936 law, the Commod- cally termed—with the Justice Department, also sanctioned former Goldman Sachs
ity Exchange Act. Which was amended by CFTC, and SEC in which the bank agreed to cochairman Jon Corzine, banning him
2010’s Dodd-Frank Act. Which was further pay close to $1 billion in connection with two for life from trading in CFTC-regulated
clarified by the CFTC’s new guidance on distinct schemes to defraud: one involving markets for his part in the collapse of MF
such trades, introduced only last March. precious metal futures, the other Treasury Global.) Giancarlo earned the moniker
notes and bonds. The FBI’s Sweeney was Crypto Dad for suggesting that Congress
The commission did not buy the compa- among those who announced the deal: “For not treat Bitcoin with “disdain or dismis-
ny’s line that it was off-limits to Americans. nearly a decade, a significant number of siveness, but with open-mindedness.” In
According to a civil filing, BitMEX derived JPMorgan traders and sales personnel openly short, he is not anti-crypto. Neither, he said,
much of its volume and fees from U.S. disregarded U.S. laws that serve to protect are his former CFTC colleagues who last
customers. Prosecutors alleged that the against illegal activity in the marketplace…. year put the crypto community on notice
company’s anti-money-laundering and Today’s deferred prosecution agreement…is that the commission takes its jurisdiction
know-your-customer policies and practices a stark reminder to others that allegations of and authority seriously. “BitMEX obviously
were merely window dressing: “BitMEX this nature will be aggressively investigated didn’t get the memo, and the CFTC went
allows customers to open accounts with and pursued.” out and sanctioned them.”
an anonymous email and password, and
a deposit of Bitcoin. BitMEX does not col- Really? Since 2000, JPMorgan Chase, The charges nonetheless caught the
lect any documents to verify the identity or America’s largest bank, has paid tens of BitMEX executives off guard. Delo, a Hong
location of the vast majority of its users.” billions in fines, including more than $2 bil- Kong resident, was in the U.K. when the
The CFTC told a federal court that it “seeks lion for anti-money-laundering deficiencies indictment was unsealed. Although U.S.
disgorgement of ill-gotten gains, civil mon- alone. Yet its CEO and chairman, Jamie prosecutors have yet to initiate extradition
etary penalties, restitution for the benefit of Dimon, and his top lieutenants have not proceedings (partly due to COVID), sources
customers, permanent registration and trad- been pursued criminally. Instead, Dimon, close to Delo said that he will appear if and
ing bans, and a permanent injunction from who had toyed with a 2020 presidential run, when they transpire. Hayes, I am told, may be
future violations.” (In January the company collected $31.5 million last year in salary in Singapore, where he is known to have a res-
announced that all users on the platform had and incentives. idence. When, or if, he will return to the States
been verified.) to face justice remains an open question.
“You can look at the history of anti-mon-
By charging BitMEX’s founders— ey-laundering prosecutions over the last 10 Still, even if they end up beating the gov-
personally—with serious crimes carrying years, and you just aren’t going to see very ernment at trial—or settling beforehand—it
serious time, officials have angered many many individual defendants named,” attor- may not spell the end of their troubles.
ney and crypto expert Rimon expounded. BitMEX and its founders have been sued by

86 VA N I T Y FA I R

investors as well as by customers who claim resolved on confidential terms.”) In one a source familiar with Amato’s suit told me,
they lost money trading on a platform they of Amato’s filings, he claimed that Hayes, each of the men allegedly paid themselves
contend is stacked against them. Most eye- Delo, and Reed “long [ago] began to spirit $140 million in multiple tranches. While
catching of all, though, is the accusation by away their funds…[and] knew by no later these figures cannot be confirmed—nor
an early investor named Frank Amato, who than January 2019 that they were under are they necessarily unusual, given the fact
sued to cash out his professed equity in the investigation by U.S. regulatory agencies that executives often receive dividends for
company. (“The case has been withdrawn,” because cofounder Reed was deposed company performance—they nonetheless
according to a spokesman for BitMEX’s by—and allegedly made false representa- amount to quite a payday, even for a trio
holding company, “after the dispute was tions to—the CFTC.” With that knowledge, of billionaires. Q

MAN D E L N GAN /AF P. State of the Union had a difficult upbringing, which I will not in her lot. According to a source close to
get into. The idea that her husband would Kellyanne, she viewed the president’s
C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 7 5 Trump knew make family life difficult was just so unex- words about George not as attacks on her
nothing about payments to women, even pected and so unnecessary.” But to George’s husband but as gallant defenses of her—a
when an audiotape showed he clearly did. friends the notion that he should be guid- hardworking mother of four who was being
Cornered on the lie by Chris Cuomo, Kel- ed by some sort of propriety was absurd. treated unfairly by the man who was sup-
lyanne played a royal flush: the shame card “Your president is throwing norms out the posed to love and support her. Around this
(“How dare you?”), the woman card (“What window,” says Lat. “Why should you stay time she stopped wearing her wedding ring,
is it about powerful, articulate women on silent out of some traditional deference to according to a senior official. When asked by
TV that bothers you as guests?”), and the the president when the president shows no colleagues about the state of her marriage,
nanny-nanny-boo-boo card, reminding deference to American values?” she responded, “It is what it is.” George had
him that she was on the winning team. gone from nuisance to adversary. When Fox
“All of you were against him. You said he In George’s mind, none of his criticisms Business’s Maria Bartiromo brought up the
could never win.” were personal. This was a five-alarm fire for situation, Kellyanne reminded everyone
America—and the outrages kept mounting. who the winner was in the couple: “I don’t
It was getting impossible to square at Like in Helsinki, where Trump, standing know when feminists are going to write
home. George would have remained silent next to Vladimir Putin, challenged his own about the unusual situation of a man get-
had Trump been merely bad, but this was country’s intelligence reports that Russia ting power through his wife. But that’s what
of a new order of awful. He wanted his wife had interfered in the election; or Trump’s we have here.”
out of the White House. Kellyanne was protecting of Saudi Arabia’s Mohammed
devastated by his speaking out and experi- bin Salman after he had journalist Jamal “The easiest thing in the world for her to
enced it as a betrayal on par with adultery. A Khashoggi, an American resident, dis- have done would have been to quit,” says
source close to Kellyanne says she was given membered. George sharpened his burns on Christie. “[But] I think that would have
no warning of George’s missives and was Twitter: “We have a president who unwit- been a really negative message to send to
unaware that he was meeting with Never tingly is a self-parody.” “The Lord made women of power and influence: that if you
Trumpers. Adding to the pain, says this Sunday a day of rest. You could at least take accomplish something on your own, on your
source, she felt she had lost “her person”— one day off from debasing your office.” “His own merits, and somehow your husband or
the anchor you go home to and with whom condition is getting worse.” others disagree with you and say so publicly,
you talk about your day. that you have to leave.”
Trump started fixating on George. In
Her friends and allies say they were this bizarre love triangle, Trump would George began bringing his significant
aghast. “You have an intimate relationship show George who was the cuck. In March intellect to bear in op-eds for The Wash-
with someone, you have criticism of some- 2019, the president summoned campaign ington Post. In October 2019, he wrote an
thing that they’re doing professionally, manager Brad Parscale, according to a 11,000-word article for The Atlantic called
then you should express that privately,” senior official, and ordered him to call Kel- “Unfit for Office,” synthesizing principles of
says Christie. “And if you can’t resolve it lyanne and give her an ultimatum: Trump jurisprudence and scientific texts on mental
privately, then you’ve got to decide what to or George, pick one. She told Parscale to illness. Two months later, with a group of
do with the marriage. I thought it was just stay out of her marriage, which Parscale other former GOP strategists—including
inexplicable. And quite frankly, not the relayed to his boss. Fired up, Trump told Rick Wilson, Steve Schmidt, Reed Galen,
George Conway that I knew. I can remem- Parscale, “Get a pencil,” and dictated a and the now disgraced John Weaver—he
ber times my wife and I, when we would see tweet for Parscale to send from Parscale’s announced the Lincoln Project. George
some of the stuff George was saying, my own account: “We all know that @real- picked up a key strategy thanks to the White
wife would look at me and say, ‘If you ever DonaldTrump turned down Mr. Kellyanne House. Over a steak lunch in New York with
did something like that, I’d kill you.’… It was Conway for a job he desperately wanted… Wilson and Jong-Fast, an unofficial advis-
very, very painful for Kellyanne’s friends to Now he hurts his wife because he is jealous er to the group, George explained what
watch this go on.” Luntz adds, “Kellyanne of her success. POTUS doesn’t even know he’d learned from an unwitting Parscale:
him!” Trump followed that up with a tweet Run cheap ads in Washington, D.C., so
from his own account, adding, “I barely that Trump would see them. Parscale had
know him but just take a look, a stone cold viewed the strategy as a way to please the
LOSER & husband from hell!” To which president. Now Conway would use the same
George tweeted back: “You. Are. Nuts.” strategy to drive Trump “batshit crazy,” as
he told Wilson and Jong-Fast. (Since allega-
With the most powerful man in the world tions that Weaver sexually harassed young
hurling insults at the father of her children, men emerged, other founding members are
this might have been a logical moment being investigated over what they knew and
for Kellyanne to reassess; she had put in when, and the PAC is barely hanging on.)
two and a half years. Instead, she threw

APRIL 2021 87

State of the Union aside a homophobe and a rapist,” Claudia home to roost. That night Claudia took the
tweeted, referring to Pence and Trump. moment to stick it to her mother. “Hey,
The Conways were now officially politi- Days later she tweeted that she was seeking Mom, if you’re watching this,” she said on
cally opposed. With the pandemic, the legal emancipation. The next day Kellyanne TikTok, “how do you feel about your army
stakes became life or death. When it came announced that she would be stepping down becoming rioters?…Anyway, Mom, if you
to addressing COVID, Kellyanne, as ever, from her position in the White House. “Less see this, come to my room. Let’s talk.”
played it both ways. Former Mike Pence drama, more mama,” quipped the quipper.
adviser Olivia Troye, who resigned in pro- George said he was stepping back from In the wake of catastrophe, Kellyanne
test of the administration’s handling of the the Lincoln Project. continued the spin, but the spin wobbled
pandemic, recalls Kellyanne, on the one pitifully. While the pandemic raged, she
hand, as a formidable presence in task force But Kellyanne just couldn’t quit Trump. A journeyed 3,000 miles to appear on Real
meetings. “She would speak up…[saying], month later she returned for two events that Time With Bill Maher and insist that it was
‘We need to make sure we’re not confus- were supposed to be victory laps of sorts. all worth it. She reminded us about those
ing the public with our messaging,’ ” says First, she, Christie, and a few other maskless great walk-in privileges. Furthermore, “You
Troye. She tangled with Scott Atlas, who advisers had to prepare Trump for the first can’t deny that many people are better off,”
cherry-picked science and questioned mask debate. She wanted him to take the oppor- she said, teeing Maher right up: “Well,
wearing. Troye was disheartened, then, to tunity to tout his accomplishments. Alas, they’re not better off now. A lot of them are
see her do a complete 180 in public, like the only memorable line was his directive dead.” As for Trump and the riot, she merely
when she took to the podium in March to his white supremacist supporters the allowed: “I wish the president had spoken
2020 and folded to the denier in chief. When Proud Boys: “Stand back and stand by.” with the people earlier to get them the hell
CBS’s Paula Reid questioned claims that the (The line wasn’t the plan, but she thought out of there.”
virus was being contained when evidence little of it, according to a source familiar
pointed to the contrary, Kellyanne sneered, with the situation; it was just Trump being Today a few leading Republicans contin-
“It is being contained. Do you not think it’s Trump.) And she couldn’t not go to the Rose ue to take a stand against Trump. Kellyanne
being contained?… So are you a doctor or Garden to celebrate the new Supreme Court isn’t one of them. A source close to Kelly-
a lawyer?” Troye recalls, “I just remember justice, Amy Coney Barrett, whom she saw anne says that “Kellyanne was disappointed
thinking, Why, Kellyanne?” According to as a kindred spirit—a non–Ivy League–edu- by the treatment of the vice president. She
two former Centers for Disease Control cated superstar and Catholic mother of a big is close to both men and hopes that their
officials, Kellyanne meddled with CDC family. At least a dozen attendees ended relationship will be solid going forward.”
guidelines on communion and choirs in up with COVID. Everyone from the debate
church—laxity to please the president. prep ended up with COVID too, according But then, how could Kellyanne Conway
to Christie. While it’s unclear where Kel- profess anything but admiration? To admit
Meanwhile, George brought the Lincoln lyanne picked up the virus, within days, it that Trump is a profoundly flawed human
Project an idea, suggested to him by con- was in the Conway household; Claudia, being would be to admit that George was
servative writer Windsor Mann, for the ad too, tested positive. right and that she made a mistake. And win-
“Mourning in America,” which powerfully ners like Kellyanne don’t make mistakes.
shredded Trump’s response to the pandem- Those twin disasters—calling white They go from one triumph to the next and
ic. (Trump responded on Twitter, anointing supremacists to attention and a super- turn controversies into career opportunities,
George with a new nickname—a sign that spreader event—bruised Trump in his like the big, juicy memoir she is writing. “An
the irking was working: “I don’t know what quest for victory. In the days following the insider” told the Daily Mail that it will be “the
Kellyanne did to her deranged loser of a hus- president’s defeat, Kellyanne was back on most unvarnished, eye-popping account of
band, Moonface, but it must have been really Team Trump as it searched for allegations her time working for the president” and that
bad.”) Beside himself with anger, George, in of voter fraud. After each and every court the deal was bigger than John Bolton’s. Q
podcast interviews and tweets, went after all case ended in defeat, according to a source
of the enablers: Bartiromo (“She was a seri- familiar with the matter, she broke it to Conway and Bill Barr at Amy Coney Barrett’s
ous person at one point”); Pence (“He used him: He’d come up short. But she no lon- celebration—after Conway had claimed to have
to be an honest politician”); “pathetic Susan ger had his ear, apparently. By that point he stepped down from her duties.
Collins”; Trump’s staff (“He’s 100% insane. was hearing what he wanted and was off to
And nobody in the administration has the the races with Stop the Steal, a slogan that CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES
balls to tell him that”). He never named his quickly metastasized within the GOP and
wife, but he viewed her as among them. throughout the country.

And then the crisis on the home front According to a source close to Kelly-
exploded into public view. Claudia, then anne, in the days leading up to the riot, she
15, was becoming virulently anti-Trump, never imagined that Stop the Steal would
pro-choice, pro–Black Lives Matter, and become a call to arms, never imagined that
a fan of Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez—and, any violence would come to pass. She might
like all teens, she was sharing her views on have listened to her husband. George was
TikTok. She was also suffering and wanted scouring Parler and finding violent nutjobs
the world to know it. She tweeted in August, who were responding to Trump’s tweets
“My mother’s job ruined my life to begin and planning to show up on January 6 to do
with. Heartbreaking that she continues to Lord knows what. On January 4, he raised
go down this path after years of watching alarm bells on Morning Joe and on Twitter.
her children suffer. Selfish. It’s all about the
fame, ladies and gentlemen.” Kellyanne spent the start of January 6
working in her office before hearing of the
Then: “You know life isn’t fair when breach. Horrified, she phoned an adviser
you wake up to your own mother speaking who was physically with Trump, telling
him to call off his supporters, to no avail.
Four years of lies and brutality had come

88 VA N I T Y FA I R

Intelligent Design highlighting sustainability and philanthro- child. It’s also the rare one that may defend
py, such as bringing eyewear to Mexican against SIDS, by preventing infants from
C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 6 3 with renewed schoolchildren. But a recent spate of projects rolling onto their stomachs, and help allevi-
vigor: “What’s the purpose? Is there a tangible suggests that this, and not high-end juicers, ate postpartum depression by making new
social value?” is the true focus of Fuseproject in 2021 and mothers less exhausted and frustrated. The
beyond. Béhar designed low-cost 3D-printed FDA has recognized the Snoo as a “break-
The pandemic grounded the relentless houses for the charity New Story that were through device,” and it has taken up floor
travel that comes with being Yves Béhar— built in Mexico last year, and a 4,000-square- space in hospitals and in museums, includ-
client visits, design fairs, lectures. It’s meant foot undersea research lab called Proteus, ing the Victoria and Albert and the Cooper
more family time, regular Fuseproject Zooms. with the oceanographer Fabien Cousteau, Hewitt (the Smithsonian’s design museum),
“We’ll all have saved money and carbon in the that is planned for the waters off Curaçao. which acquired one for its permanent col-
process,” he said. Béhar’s design approach has (Béhar also recently designed sunglasses lection. (It retails for $1,400 but is offered
always been what he calls “proactive,” antici- made from recycled ocean detritus for a in a more affordable rental program, and,
pating needs that might arise a few years down Dutch nonprofit, The Ocean Cleanup.) He Karp said, it is now an employee benefit at a
the road—the futurist in him. But the pandem- has designed Moxie, a cute, expressive robot number of corporations.) Béhar considers it
ic also required Fuseproject to be reactive. As pal that helps autistic kids acquire social one of his most rewarding projects, a case
Béhar put it, “We decided to put ourselves at skills, and ElliQ, a robot companion for the study in how tech, with the aid of design, can
the service of others and what was needed.” elderly that looks like a luminous sculptural solve problems, not proliferate them. “There
object. Such projects, Béhar said, will help are certainly elements of technology that
Reacting to a real-time catastrophe made us see robots and AI as “humanizing and not make us feel like we’re paralyzed,” he said,
Fuseproject an analogue, in miniature, of an dehumanizing,” erasing our terror of being “but technology isn’t something that I feel
auto plant that shifts its output from sedans ruled by HAL 9000. powerless about. In social media, financial
to tanks during wartime. Béhar mentioned services, and other places, there are tech-
that the firm designed posters for the United His most celebrated robotic design is nologies that take advantage of us. I want it
Nations and helped get the entire town of arguably the Snoo, a sleeper and bassinet to be the other way around.”
Bolinas, California (population 1,077), tested developed with Karp, author of The Hap-
for COVID-19. When Massachusetts General piest Baby on the Block, and his wife, the “IF I WERE a young designer,” Medda told
Hospital issued a call for the rapid design and filmmaker Nina Montée Karp. Following me, “I would aspire to be Yves Béhar.” He
fabrication of ventilators to meet the coro- Karp’s principles, the Snoo can swing and is now what Charles and Ray Eames were
navirus crisis, Fuseproject, teaming with the sway and shush (microphones detect a in an earlier age, a designer that up-and-
tech start-up Cionic, came through with the baby’s cries and the crib reacts with sooth- coming practitioners emulate and seek out
winning entry, the Vox ventilator, developing ing sounds), and it comes with a snug little for mentorship. “It’s incredibly rewarding to
the lifesaving device in record time. “I real- sack that achieves perfect swaddling—the have young designers tell me they got into the
ized that that’s what animates me, gets me blanket-burrito effect that parents struggle field because we inspired them,” Béhar said
out of bed—responding to conditions no mat- with. It does all of this while looking cool— of Fuseproject. “It is important to provide
ter how dramatic or terrifying,” Béhar said. a midcentury-modernish piece of quality hope for younger designers.”
furniture with hairpin steel legs. “Our goal
The do-gooderism of Fuseproject has was to have something so beautiful and so Ever the optimist, Béhar is still scanning
always been conspicuous, with projects welcoming to a child and so approachable to what’s ahead, imagining today’s plans tak-
a parent—and yet it’s technology,” Karp told ing shape in a tomorrow we can’t yet discern.
me. “His design made those counterpoints He admitted to being a little impatient to
go together so well.” Montée Karp picked up get there. “I never think it’s going to be 5 or
the thread: “It’s a robot—but he made it so 10 years out,” he said, before clicking into a
sweet and poetic.” Zoom conference. “I think it’s, like, two or
three. But I have learned that things to do
The Snoo is the kind of baby accessory take more time.” Q
that makes you tempted to have another

VANITY FAIR IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. IN BOTH THE U.S. AND THE U.K.
THE U.K. EDITION IS PUBLISHED BY THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD. UNDER LICENSE.

COPYRIGHT © 2021 BY THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD., VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S IJU. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PRINTED AT WALSTEAD ROCHE.

Vanity Fair April 2021, No. 727. The magazine is published monthly (except a combined issue in July/August and December/Holiday) by The Condé Nast Publications Ltd.,
Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (telephone: 020 7499 9080).

Subscription rates include delivery and digital editions. Full rates are £59.88 for one year in the UK, £96 for the rest of the world. To place your order call 0844 848 5202 in the UK or +44 (0)1858 438 815.
Landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost more than 5p a minute; calls made from mobiles usually cost more. Special offers and exclusive promotions are published in this issue or online at vanityfair.co.uk.
To manage your subscription log onto www.magazineboutique.co.uk/solo. For subscription enquiries email [email protected] or mail Condé Nast Britain, Subscriptions Department,
Tower House, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, LE16 9EF, UK.

VANITY FAIR is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, or transparencies), or any
other unsolicited materials. Those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by Vanity Fair in writing.

Manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed overnight-delivery return envelope, postage prepaid. The paper used for this publication is
based on renewable wood fibre. The wood these fibres are derived from is sourced from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. The producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according

to highest environmental and health and safety standards. This magazine is fully recyclable—please log on to www.recyclenow.com for your local recycling options for paper and board.

TO FIND CONDÉ NAST MAGAZINES ONLINE, VISIT www.condenet.co.uk; TO FIND VANITY FAIR, VISIT www.vanityfair.co.uk.

APRIL 2021 89

,9-' '9 <% *?B?8C ?B?8C '9
! 9%'-, * * -',$ 9?9< ', '*'<C , 9A'+A 8 8 ,
<%',$9 '!! 8 ,<*C !!-8 '*'<C !8-+ '-
!-?, C 9'$, 8 <%8 -!< ,
, '8- A'<%
* 8 ' %" * 3 ', -+/ <' * ?,'4? -, /< -!
'D &', *?9'@ , -, /<9 8 5 '< *
<%' **C + A'<% + 8$ C *? 'D 9A'+A 863 .EE2
!?**C <8 ,9/ 8 ,< C A 879 %' + ', 8 D'*
9?//*C % ', 9<C*',$ /8 +'?+ /8-? *C
,9-'79 .EE2 9'*) 4? *'<C , /8-+-< 9 - C
+'9-* 9 , 9*'/ 8 -, , ?<8 * /-9'<'@'<C ,
8 99 9 ! <?8 , ?9', 99 +- *3 9?9< ', *
', -$,'<- ?'*<&', % * < 9< ! 9%'-, <%8-?$%
8 9- A-+ , ,
-, &9'D "<9 **
4?'< -+/8-+'9',$ -** <'-, '9 % , & 8 !< !8-+ <% %'$% 9< ?8 * 9A'+A 8
, ", **C $ < <% 9?//-8< <% C 9 8@ 3 '9'< 4? *'<C < *' , < < 9 , + < *93 <% < -!! 89 %'$% @ 89 <'*'<C **-A',$ C-? <- '<
%-&!#&% &%* &$ , !-**-A %-&!*#&% &% -, '9'< #02!5 4 3 ,* &$ #02!5 , 9<C* C-?8 /' 9 9 C-? A ,< '9'<
<- ?/*'!< 3 %-<-$8 /% 8 %?,< 89 -** <'-,9 !/ -3!$3 ,* &$ !/ -3!$3 ,


* * * ( )

'9 ?+'99?8 A 9 3 3 3 0 9-*?<
9?9< ', * 9*-A !-?, ', ' <-8C @ 8C C1
! 9%'-, 8 , *- < >E.= A'<% <% '9 /8-$8 99'@
', <% 3 -?, C /?8/-9 -! 9<8 <A 8 8 ,
! 9%'-, 9'$, % */',$ A-+ , A'<% !- ?9 -,
$8 ? < %8'9<' , 8 99 <% A C %'$% 4? *'<C

,, % 8 8 , <% C *') ,- $ 8+ ,<9
-!! 89 <'+ * 99 9'$,9 + << 8 <% '8 /< * <- ,C
<% < % @ /-9'<'@ 9<C* $ -8 *'! 9<C* 3 % 8 ,
'+/ <9 -, , <?8 -?8 9'D 3 8',$ '9 ' < <-
/* , < , / -/* 3 $ 8+ ,< <% < <%-9 A%-
% 9<C* '9 % 9 , + -,<',? <- 9<8'@
% , + C <- + 9?8 !-8 @' <-8C @ 8C
%8'9<' , ', % 8 9<? '- !-8 * $ , C , <% '8
?9',$ -8$ ,' , , -+!-8< ',,-@ <'@ 9'$,9
9?9< ', * + < 8' *93 < , + 8 ', '@' ? *'<C A'<%-?< 9 8'" ',$ 4? *'<C
'9'< ,!-/! % -! %-* &*0" !!-8 * -8 9<C* 3 '9'< -&#0/ 2! /&,4 2 ,4 4* &$
,!-/! % * -! %- /8' 3 '9'< -0$!--0, * &$ -0$!--0, -&#0/ 2! /&,4 2 ,4 4




+

, ',< 8, <'-, * C ', 7

'9
+- * %8'9<', -** <'-,79 ' +-, *?B?8C
--/ 8 % 9 8 < %-8<
',' 8 99 '9 ! 9%'-, 8 ,
?<C , ! 9%'-, <% / 8! < / 8<C <% <
8 , 9* , *3 /' !-8 *+-9< ,C B +/*'" 9
%8'9<', 79 ',<8' < 9/ ' * - 9'-,3 -* +- 8,
8' ,&',9/'8 <?8 '9 +- * ' *93 % C
<8-/' * @' 8 ,< ' -89 C A 8',$ /* C ,
/' 9 , 8<%C <% 9< 8&9<? B/ 8'+ ,<
<-, $ 8+ ,<9 8 8 99 A%' % '9 A'<% * ,
8--< ', % 8 / @ '* * ', @ 8' <C C < 9 ? <'@
9' ,: 8' , -! -*-?893 9'$, 8 /' 9 A'<%
% 8'< $ 3 8 < <%
,,'! 8
'*3 % /'
/ 8! < *--) !-8 %-<-$8 /% 8 ?9<', ", ',$ '<9
@ <'-, -8 @ , @C3
) ?/ 9 <%' %-+ A'<% -," ,< + '<'-?9 , 8',$
C-?8 , B< 8 8/ <

%-,3 <C*'9<9
' % ** -, C '+ 8*C *' ,< * 3 '<% % , A -** <'-, -+ 9
@ ,<3 '9'< A9-+3 '9'< "4, # !% &## /!&%* &$ , @-*?<'-, <- /<?8 <% ?<<',$ $ 3 '9'<
!-# % #',& 0 /-* &$ !-# % #',& 0 /- !-**-A "4, # !% &## /!&% -, 3 #$&$&* , !-**-A #$&$& ! # -, 3






-+ ,' , 9*-A ! 9%'-, 9 ', %'* */%' '+ <*'99 '9 <-/ *?B?8C 9'$, C
8'99
-?<'4? 9<8 <A 8 8 , A%- 9'$, % , + ,'+ ,',- -!! 89
A'+A 8 8 -$,'9 9 ( ,9 , , ' -,' -** <'-, -! ( ) <93 % '8 8 +C ?8 < '<
<% < A-+ ,79 - ' 9 8 $- * '9 <- 8',$ ?,'4? %'$%&4? *'<C 9<8 <A 8 -! 8 99 9 ',
', -,9< ,< % ,$ 3 % B *?9'@ *C 9'$,
8 , *?89 <% *', !8-+ %'* */%' <- <% A-8* -! ! 9%'-,3 ?,'4? /8',<93 ,<8 *
<A , 9A'+ , 9<C* '9'< #!$ /#!--* &$ , !-**-A #!$ /#!-- -, 3 <- <% 8 , 79
8 <',$ $* +-8-?9 /%'*-9-/%C '9 <% <
*--)9 A'<% !?, <'-, * 8 99 9%-?* "< # << 8
* + ,<93 % '8 , 8',$ C-? <- *'! 3
# << 8',$ , < '* ?9< ', '*'<C '9
/' 9 8 8 !?**C / 8 +-?,< <- ?,')79
8 !< ?9',$ ',,-@ <'@ <%-9 9- % 8 99 '9
*C 8 A'<% 9% / + ', *'+'<
8 < ,<'-, < %,-*-$C 4? ,<'<' 9 ,
, ! ?*-?9 -& /8- ? *- **C ',
!8' , *C 99-8' 93 '9'< -& , %*,& ,
* -?8, ?9<8 *' 3 '9'< /0%!"* &$* 0 ,
!-**-A -& , %*,& -, 3 !-**-A /0%!"1/ # # -, 3

4B1 ! F
F !6/ ! F4B; B; !1<40! F4) D! ; D,?* B< 1 D,0D! ;
,?*4/G ,1
$ *! ,1?<: B16 ; //!/! F4) 4 F<B,?8
B<? !E /B<,C!/F !<,)1!
!/ !<,)1< C!) 1 < D! * C! ;! .1,C!< $4; )B!??!< ;,C!;< F BG, ,!0 GF .
* 1 )< $4; ?*! ?4 <D,1) ? )4/$ //< 4; ;B !; <4/!< ?4 1 C,) ?! ;! ?!< D40!1:<
0!?;464/,? 1 ),;/ <D,0D! ; D,?*
D*4 ,< /D F< ?!11,< 4B;?< $ *! ,1?<: B??,1)+! )! 6 <<,41 $4; / <<,
41+?*!+)48 1<6,;! !<,)1< !/,C!; ?*! 1! !<< ;F ?44/< $4; F4B; <,/*4B!??!< 1 /4C!
F C,1? )! !<,)1< F4) D ; ;4 !8 ,<,? & , * !%,* '' ) #( &$ $4; <B00!;8
D,?* 41?!064; ;F 1 $4//4D & , * !%,* '' ) # 41 8 1 +0 ! $4; ?*4<!
?D,<? ! * ) 1 D*4 <!!. ?*! <B1 //
! 6!;<41 /,<! D,?* F! ; ;4B1 ?*!,;
!0 ;4, !;F 1 4//! ?,41< B<! ?*!
* ,1<8 *!,; <! 41 *,)*!<? 9B /,?F
4//! ?,41 ;! !1?/F $ ;, < ?4 0 E,0,<!
/ B1 *! B<,1) 40$4;? 1 !1<B;!
;! F /! 0 ?!;, /< !/!) 1 !8 4; ?,0!/!<< ! * !/!) 1 ! C,<,?
$4; ,?< <B<? ,1 ,/,?F ,1,?, ?,C!8 ,<,? $)# #( & *-* %*0!$0 )( - 1 $4//4D
1 $4//4D $)# #. 41 8 *-* %.*0!$0 ) 41 8











?,C! 4/,<* B /4< ,< /BEB;F 1<6,;! F 1 ?B;!
!<,)1!; 1, /! ?*!; !<<4;,!< 4< 1)!/!<
; 1 $4 B<! 41 6;!<!1?< ?*!,;
4 ,B) ,< ;! ?,1) <B<? ,1 /! ?,0!/!<< 4//! ?,41 4$
); B ?! 4$ ?*! !<64.! 6;4 B ?<8 <B1)/ <<!<8 * 6 ,;
<*,41 1<?,?B?! *!F ;! ?! ,< ;?$B//F ; $?! ?4
4$ ! *14/4)F ,1 ,1 ,C, B //F * 1 + 6;4C, ! / <?,1)
!D 4;.8 ; $?! * 1 )< 40$4;? D*,/<?
40 ,1,1) 0 ! ?4 4; !; 1 .!!6,1) <?F/! ? ?*!
B;46! 1 $4;!$;41? 4$ ?*!,;
!/!) 1 ! 1 ,?< !<,)1! F F4B B<,1)
41<!;C ?,C! *, ?*!,; D! <,?!:< !<,)1<8 *! ; 1
D,?* 0!;, 1 30 !$4;0! $! ?B;!8 ,1C,?!< F4B ?4 ! 40!
$;!! 40 1 ! <!
! ,1 <0 // 6 ;? 4$ ?*!,;
<*! / B1 *! *,/4 <?B ,4 B<,1) %1! ? /, 1 400B1,?F //4D,1)
# 1 40641!1?< <B * < F4B ?4 ! ,1<6,;! 1
,1 !6!1 !1? /BEB;F / !/ $4; D40!1 D*4 0 .! < $% 14 /! ?*!;8 B?*!1?, //F !E6;!<<
,$$!;!1 !8 ,<,? ' !#&% 01&)"( &$ 1 $4//4D ,<,? - #&*( &(-" - #&*. *'&" F4B;<!/$8 ,<,?
' !#&% 01&)" 41 8 / .$!// 6*4?4); 6*F8 ' &# ( &$ 1 $4//4D ' &#&* % # * 41 8






8 8 HAH =(22 2H"H @=H&

E6!;,!1 !
;,< ! ;/
?*! /BEB;F 4$ 48:< <,)1 ?B;!
?*! 04<? 4//! ?,41
!?*, / $! ?B;!< 6! ;/<
40$4;?8 * 1 +<!/! ?!
<! ,1 F +
; !/41 !;?,%!

, *!/! !E6!;?< $4;
4C!1:< ?*!,; 1 ?B; /
?,0!/!<< <* 6! 1
4//! ?,41< !?*!;! / /B<?;!8
;! 400,??! < 1
?4 !?*, / $ <*,41 ;! ?,1) !E /B<,C! 6,! !< 4 ! 1+
* 1 +.1,??! D,?* /6 D44/8 *!,; /,0,?! 41< ,4B< -!D!//!;F <?B ,4
;,< ! ;/ 48
6;4 B ?,41 /,1! ;!'! ?< ?*! ; 1 :< <B<? ,1 /! 41 ?!< &7 4$ !C!;F < /! ?4 41<!;C ?,41
C /B!< 1 ?*!,; ;!<6! ? $4; 4B; / 1 < 1 ,1,?, ?,C!< ,1 ?*!
! ,?!;; 1! 1 ! 8 ,<,?
?; ,?,41<8 ,<,? $! # % &/ %( &$ 1 $ )!*' )# &( &$ 1 $4//4D $ )!*' )# &
$4//4D $! # % &/ % 41 8 41 8 *4?4 ! !;, ; 148



4B? ;! 4$$!;< 6;!0,B0 4//! ?,41< ?* ? <,)1,$F
<46*,<?, ?! , !1?,?F8 B<? ,1 /F 1
1<6,;! F / <<, / ,/, < ?,C! !<,)1<

6 1!<! 1?*4/4)F *,)*+9B /,?F 41< ,4B</F 0 ! ?*!,; /BEB;F ) ;0!1?< ;!
:< / ?!<? ?,C!D! ; 1 !<,)1! ?4 / <?8 1<6,;! F <46*,<?, ?!
4//! ?,41 !E6;!<<!< /!,<B;!D! ; ?4 .!!6
?*! !!6 <!;!1,?F 4$ D4;.4B?< 46?,0,<! 0,1,0 /,<0 4B? ;!:< 4//! ?,41< //4D D40!1
<6;,1) ,1
6 18 *!,; 1 ;!<? F< ?4 /4C! 1 /,C! ,1 / <<, !<<, /! 1
' )<*,6 <,?! /4 ?! 40$4;? /!8 *!,;
,1 ?*!
,1 0,+ / ?!<? 4//! ?,41 ,< )/ 04;4B< 6,! !<8 ,<,? /&-, ) &## ,!&%( &$
4F 0 ,<?;, ? ? ?*! 0 <?!; / << ,1 <?F/! 1 $4//4D /&-, ) 41 8
*! ;? 4$ 4.F4 40$4;? 1
;!46!1< < 1 6!;$4;0 1 !+D! ;
664,1?0!1?+41/F ;! ?,1) 400B1,?F
6;,C ?! < /41 ?*,< ?* ? ,1<6,;!< ?*!
<6;,1) //4D,1) F4B ?4 <?;!1)?* ?4 ! ?*! C!;F
/4<! F4B;<!/$ ,1 ?*!,; !<? C!;<,41 4$ F4B8 !;! ?4 !/!C ?! F4B; )F0
<?B11,1) 4//! ?,41<8 ) 0! 1 <?F/! ?*,< ; 1 ,< 41! ?4 D ? * ,1
,<,? ) *1-)1-( &$ AHA58 ,<,? #!#! * ,!/ ( &$ 1 $4//4D
1 $4//4D ) *1-)1-.& ! # 41 8 #!#! * ,!/ 41 8

3A @ 02 ,: 0 ..+0 ?B9 . C ) 0+$9, 0 .F 492 B ? 492B .F / ,0 B:?9 ., 6
; * ,9 . F / :-: 2$$ 9 *,0? 2$ .BEB9F ,0 ?* 2/$29? 2$ F2B9 2D0 *2/ " ?*
(& < 4 9$ ? D F ?2 :42,. F2B9 :-,06 * ?* 9 F2B * C 2,.F : 0:,?,C 29 9F :-,0
3H ?* 9 ,: :2/ ?*,0) $29 C 9F20 6 ,:,? + A A, 2 /,2 =
+ A2 A2,
!1
3& <2 0 9 $? ,0 B:?9 ., 3 . F :-: 9
3A 3< 0*F 92B: 0 20.F B: *,)*.F 20 0?9 ? 0 ?B9 . ,0)9 , 0?:6 *
3( 9 0) ,0 .B : %C ,$$ 9 0? / :-: 0 * / :- ,/: ?2 ? 9) ?
:4 ,% :-,0 ?F4 0 20 906 : ?* 2
AH $29 AH5
F2B9 %9:? 4B9 * : E4,9 : @3=3A=A36 ,:,? &4 - - 4 2 /
&4 - - 4

;2 4B?: 9 9 ?,C 2EF) 0 4. 0?: ,0 0 ) +2. :?20 /29? 9 $29
$ 9/ 0? ?,20 B0 9 20:? 0? ? /4 9 ?B9 :6

2 8: A EF) 0 F 9 / 0
* .4 ?2 9 B ?* 44 9 0 2$ D9,0-. : 92B0 ?* ., ? F 9 6

,:,? ?(( / 2 /, 0 $2..2D ?(( / =:A 20
6

%2 9B .?F+$9 9 0
D : 290 2B? 2$ ?*
$2B0 98: :?9B)). D,?* *F4 94,)/ 0? ?,20 0 * ,9 .2::6 * ,9 $? 9 9 9B/
,: $29/B. ? ?2 * .4 . 0: ?* :-,0 0 0 B: 20 F2B9 0 - $ 0
* 6 ,:,? :' : -( + /++ :(/-2 /, 0 $2..2D :' : -( + /++ :(/- 20
6

$2
+ : ,: 2:/ ?, : 9 0 ,0:4,9 F $22 6 2B0 9 :
9 ? ?* 9 0 D,?* * 9 B)*? 9 ,/, D*2 ,0:4,9 * 9 ?2 9 ? * 9 %9:?
*2? 2) ,0:4,9 .,4:?, -6 , ?B9 ,: ?* :2$? 4,0- 2,:?B9,:,0) ?? *9,/4
9, , ,4:?, -6 D 9 AH31
0 , B?F8: :? BF 9 D 9 6 ,:,?
&/4)= 2 /, 0 &/4)= -A 20
6

82 8 . ,9 , ). / 2$ .,)*? ?* ? 9 C .: .2::2/,0) '2D 96 8:
C 0 20 0?9 ? : 9B/ ,: 09, * D,?* *F .B920, , 0 49 ,2?, :6
*,: 492 B ? * .4: ?2 . C F2B9 :-,0 .22-,0) 9 , 0?# * 3HH5 C ) 0 :-,0 9
9 0 ,: 9B .?F+$9 4B9 .F 29) 0, 0 9?* $9, 0 .F6 ,0 F2B9 :*,// 9 ?
,( + ?2 /, 0 $2..2D ,( + ?>> 20
6

72 ,: C ) 0 0 :B) 9+$9 )B//F C,? /,0 9 0 0 29: F
0B?9,?,20,:?:6 * F ? :? .,- ?,0F ?9 ? F ? ?* F89 B9:?,0) D,?* C,? /,0: 0
/,0 9 .:6 * ,/ 2$ ?* : C,? /,0: ,: ?2 :B4429? ?* 029/ . $B0 ?,20,0) 2$ F2B9
2 F 0 /,0 0 ?2 * .4 F2B $ . * .?*, 9 0 /29 0 9),: 6
,:,? -=:4( =46:?(: ,(-62 /, 0 $2..2D -=:4( =46:?(:6 20
6

!2 : ,0 B:?9 .,
492C, : C ) 0 :-,0 9 492 B ?:6
* F 20 ? 3 $92/ C 9F . F / :- 4B9 * : ?2 ?* 2, . :: 0,/ . 9B .?F
2B0 ?,206 * ,9 ) 0 . F :- ,/: ?2 . C F2B D,?* :-,0 ?* ? 44 9:
9,)*? 9 D*,.:? .:2 * .4,0) ?2 9 B ?* 44 9 0 2$ 429 :6 ,:,?

" /""6*(- 4 2 /,
" /""6*(- 4 /"# ( +
33 .2 B: 4* 9/ B?, . -02D. ) ?2 9 ?

:24*,:?, ? 29) 0, 2:/ ?, : D,?* 9 - * 9 :6 *92B)*
:-,0 , )02:?, ? :? ?* F 9 2// 0 9 92B?,0 :
? ,.29 ?2 F2B9 0 :6 *2D0 ,: ?* ,9 0 ., B/
,)*?
2.B?,20 D*, * 0 * .4 F2B9 :-,0 $ . :/22?* 9 0
429 : 44 9 :/ .. 96 .. 0 ?B9 . ,0)9 , 0?:6 ,:,?
/6 /6, :( 62 /,
/6> 4, /4& -( 6 ( -

0B2 9 ? B?,$B. :-,0 9 492 B ?: 0 0 . :
B:,0) 0 ?B9 8: %0 :? ,0)9 , 0?:6 29 )29) 2B:.F : 0? * 0 : ?* ?
$ . :,.-F+:/22?* ?*,: :B// 9 ?9F ?* ,9 :?+: ..,0) 22?*,0) 0
0,?,: 96 20? ,0: 3HH5 4B9 :: 0?, . 2,.: 0 .2 C 9 6 * ,9
3@ &H/. 2??. : / - 4 9$ ? .,??. D ,0) $ C2B9: ?22# ,:,?
1/6A - 1 42 /, 0 $2..2D 1/6A> - >1 4 20
6

002
5 :* : * .4 ?2 . 0 F2B9 :-,0 0
:29 C 0 D ? 94922$ / - B4 D,?* D ? 9 .20 6
2 ,?,20 .
.2?,20: 0 6 * : *F42 .. 9) 0, 9 B: . :B4 9 :2$? 4 :
492 B . :: D :? 9 D :* . B4 ?2 1& 0 9 / 9- .F
B9 . 6 ,:,? @ 6 '( 62=* 0 $2..2D @ 6 '( 62(-: 4- :(/- +
20
6

0<2 9 0 * 9 0 492 B : 0 ?B9 . * 9
:* /422: B:,0) 3HH5 0 ?B9 . ,0)9 , 0?: 0 ., ? 9 ::
4 9$B/ :6 * F 9 ? ) 0 92B: 0 9 /F $2 / 0 . C F2B9
* ,9 $ .,0) :2$? 0 .22-,0) :*,0F6 :,)0 $29 ?9 C . ?* 9 0 ,:
, ? ?2 492C, ,0) G 92 4. :?, E4 9, 0 D* 9 C 9 F2B )2
D,?* * 492 B ? *2/ ,0 )29) 2B: 0 ?B9 . 29- ?9 C . 2E6 ,:,?
+ 61 - 62 /, 0 $2..2D + 61 - 6 20
6

0;2 ,: 0 ,0 .B:,C :-,0 9 9 0 ?* ?
492/2? : 0,C 9: . -,0 20% 0 6 * ,9 0 ?B9 . 9,)*? 0 22:?
9B/ ,/: ?2 . C F2B9 :-,0 D,?* ).2D,0) 44 9 0 D,?*2B?
$ .,0) : ?*2B)* 429 : 9 .2)) 6 22- F2B9 :? $ . F2B9 :?
0 F ?* D29. * +20 C 9F F6 -,0 9 ,: : .$+ 9 6
,:,? " A /6, :( 62 /,
" A

0%2 BEB9F 9 ? $$29 . 49, :6 :? 0 :
?2 /42D 9 4 24. ?2 D :* 0 ?B9 ..F6 * 9 ,: * 0 / D,?*
29) 0, 0 0 ?B9 . ,0)9 , 0?: 0 * 0 B? ,0 ?. 0? 6 * ,9
)29) 2B: :2 4: 9 :B,? . $29 .. :-,0 ?F4 : 0 0 B: $29
20 ,?,20: :B * : G / 0 4:29, :,:6 ,:,? 4 @ =:6/ 16 /2 /,
0 $2..2D 4 @ =:6/ 1 20
6

0$2
,: 0 . 2/4 0F : ,0 2B?* . :
:4 , .,:,0) ,0 B?,$B. * 0 42B9 0 . :6 .. 492 B ?: 9
C ) 0 9B .?F $9 0 9 / B:,0) *,)* 7B .,?F :B:? ,0 .F
:2B9 ,0)9 , 0?:6 2 B:,0) 20 /,0,/ .,:? 29 ?* F ,/ ?2 9,0)
F2B 20+?9 0 492 B ?: ?* ? 9 ? 2:F 0 ,0C,?,0) / , 0
D,?*,0 F2B9 *2/ 6 ,:,? ' 6:( 6 -:62 /,
' 6:( 6 -:6

082 8: 20 +:? 4 ?24, . ,9 ?9 0)?* 0,0) 9B/ 20? ,0:
. 0 2$ * 9 : :: 0?, . 2,.: 0 4. 0? 2? 0, .:6 *,: 0 ?B9 .
492 B ? ?* ? $ .: .,)*?D ,)*? * .4: ?2 . C F2B D,?* * ,9 ?* ?
44 9: .20) 96 .. ,: C ) 0 9B .?F $9 ).B? 0 $9 :2F $9

?*, ..F :2B9 0 G 92 D :? 6 ,:,? ++ 2 /,
++

052 !=$G1! K4G= I4=0 2 D*4>! 4$ K4G= $=,!2 > I,D* !0, ,4G>0K 5@




> !2D! D* 4 K 2 *41! 6=4 G D>: *,> ,> ),$D,2) I,D* 42> ,!2 ! > 00 4$ D*!,=
6=4 G D> =! =G!0DK $=!! 2 H!) 2 =! ,D! : ,)2 G6 2 =! !,H! 5M9 4$$ K4G= %=>D 5"
4= != !J6,=!> E5B5FBF5: ,>,D & 3+/88 3&>42;*2 /,
& 3+/88 3&>4;* 53

0 2 44>D K4G= 42% !2 ! 2 1 /! K4G= >DK0! 7 2 >1,0!#8 646 I,D* 0GJG=K ! GDK = 2 FF
2 *!,= 0,6 6=4 G D> =! 24D 420K )0GD!2 2 =G!0DK+$=!! GD 0>4 42D ,2 !>>!2D, 0 F&
4,0> >G * > =) 2 142)42) 2 1 =G0 : *! / 4GD D*!,= 400! D,42 4$ 0,6>D, /> 2
)04>>!> D* D $!!0 0,)*DI!,)*D 042)+0 >D,2) 2 0! H! 0,6> $!!0,2) >4$D: >! 4 !
5M $4= F(
5M9 4$$ 7!J6,=!> FEBM(BF58: ,>,D 1/3/2 2 $4004I 1/3/ /4, 8( 4 42
:
F
0.2 4G2 ! 42 H!) 2 6=,2 ,60!>
0.6@ $4=1G0 D!> I*40!+60 2D 2GD=,!2D+=, * FM
60 2D+ >! >/,2 =! >G * > D*!,=
!+ 0! = 42 !2D= D!
00G1,2 D,2) =,)*D!2,2) @
!=G1 I,D* FM9 H,D 1,2 $!=G0, , 2 >G) = 660! !JD= D: *,> )4=)!4G> >!=G1 ,1>
D4 *!06 =! G ! D*! 66! = 2 ! 4$ =/ >64D> I*,0>D !2 4G= ),2) %=1!= $!!0,2) >/,2 2 2
!H!2 044/,2) >/,2 D42! 2 D!JDG=!: ,>,D 3(+ >) 0.6@2 /, 2 $4004I 3(+ >) 0.6@
42
:

:@2

,> ! , D! D4 6=4H, ,2) 60 2D+ >! >/,2 =! D4 F5
,2 ,H, G 0> I*4 0! D,H! 0,$!>DK0!>:
D $!!0> )!2D0! 42 D*! >/,2 2 ,> $4=1G0 D! D4 0! H!
K4G I,D* >/,2 D* D $!!0> >144D*: G,D 0! $4= 00 >/,2 DK6!>: ,>,D / ( 4*(- 3 2 +;

/ ( 4*(- 3 +;

:02 >,2) I,0 60 2D> $4= )! 42 D*!,= $ =1 ,2 2



,2$G>!> D*!,= ! 4+$=,!2 0K 4 K 6=4 G D> I,D* *!= >:
! I,D* 00+2 DG= 0
,2)=! ,!2D> 2 24 >K2D*!D, 404G=> 4= $= )= 2 !>: *!,= >/,2 =! $!!0> )!2D0! 2
>44D*,2): ,>,D D*!,= >*46 2 04) D 13 (3( 4/ 14& *2 /, 2 $4004I
13 (3( 4/ 14& * 42
:

::2 /! K4G= ! GDK =4GD,2! D4 I*40! 2!I 0!H!0 I,D* <>
=K>D 0 ,2$G>! >/,2 =! 400! D,42 1 ! I,D* 4=) 2, ,2)=! ,!2D> 2 64>,D,H!
$%=1 D,42>: , DG=! ,> D*!,= 0! 2>!= 2 $ , 0 4,0 I*, * ,1> D4 0! H! >/,2 044/,2)
= , 2D: 00 6=4 G D> =! * 2 1 ! H!) 2 2 $=!! $=41 $= )= 2 ! * =>* *!1, 0> 2
>G0$ D!>: ,>,D 4/-/ 44 - ++ 2 /, 2
4/-/< 44 -

:92 4D 2, 0 >/,2 =! 6=4 G D> K 4$$!= 41 ,2 D,42 4$ 1,0 $4=1G0 > I,D* FE
2 DG= 0 ,2)=! ,!2D> >G * > * 141,0! 04! H!= !G 0K6DG> 2 H,D 1,2 : *!,= 6=4 G D>
,1 D4 0! H! D*! >/,2 044/,2) = , 2D 2 $!!0,2) =!$=!>*! : , DG=! ,> D*! 2D,+ ),2) /,2
=! 1 ,=1,2) !=G1 2 , 0 0! 2>!=: =G!0DK+$=!! 2 4=) 2, : ,>,D
88>> +(,(8 /2 /,
88>> <+(,(8 /

:$2 1!=),2) !=1 2 = 2
$4 G>>!> 42 >G>D ,2 0! 2 2 DG= 0 * ,= =!:
,D* D*!,= >,)2 DG=! 4 = =,>D0! * ,= =G>* D*!K 41 ,2! 2 !J 0G>,H! !>,)2 I,D*
>D D!+4$+D*!+ =D 1 D!=, 0> $4= 14 !=2 66=4 * D4 * ,= =!: ,>,D + /'13(-?2 /, 2
$4004I + /13(-?2/ ! ( + 42
:

:"2
G ! =$G1! ,> G2,;G! G2,>!J 0GJG=K $= )= 2 ! 1 ! $=41
*,)* ;G 0,DK ,2)=! ,!2D> $=41 = >>! 4GD* 4$ = 2 !:
D ,> 04H! $4= ,D> I44
> !2D 2 0!2 4$ =, * 4G 24D!> >4$D!2! K D*! I =1D* 4$ >6, !> D* D 0,2)!=
D4 =!H! 0 =,2) $= )= 2 !: ,>,D 4(3 &4 -842 /,
4(3 &4 -84





: : MFM @(33 3M"M E@M&

02
2>6,=! K D*! 0 2 > 6!> =4G2 *!= * 2 = $D> 42!+4$+ + 5
/,2 )0 >> 6,! !> %00! I,D* 6=!>>! '4I!=>: != I4=/ ,2 0G !> !>64/! 2 0! (
*40 !=> * 2),2) '4I!= $= 1!> 2 G2,;G! 411,>>,42! 6,! !> $4= D*4>! I*4
I 2D D4 6=!>!=H! D*!,= 4I2 '4I!=> $=41 >6! , 0 141!2D> ,2 D*!,= 0,$!: ,>,D A
+; >+ 4+ 88 4(%-42 /2;* 2 $4004I +; >+ 4+ 88 4(%-4 42
:

:2
,> )04 0 *41! $G=2,>*,2) = 2 4$$!=,2) 42D!164= =K 2
142G1!2D 0 ! 4= =D, 0!> 6=4 G ,2) ,224H D,H! 6,! !> D* D 6D D4 D*!
!H!=+!H40H,2) D=!2 > I,D*,2 ,2D!=,4= !>,)2:
!2 ! H4G=> D4 !0,H!= ! 4=
400! D,42> D* D =! 24D 420K >6! ,% GD =!'! D,42 4$ D*! ,2 ,H, G 0 42>G1!=<>
0,$!>DK0!: ,>,D +( 2 /2;*
<< +( *4D4)= 6*! K D*! ! 4I>6 !

92
!>,)2> !J;G,>,D!0K !K!+ D *,2) 2 !D*, 00K 1 !
* 2 )> D* D D /! D*! H!) 2 *4, ! D4 0GJG=,4G> *!,)*D>:
/! 1! 2,2)$G0
,16 D D4 K4G= I = =4 ! 2,1 0> 2 D*! 60 2!D: 5M D=!!> 60 2D! $4= !H!=K )
>40 : ,>,D = 33(-%8/-2 /, 2 $4004I 33(-%8/- = 42
:

$2 2 +64G=! ,2 >1 00 D *!>
<> =41 D*!= 6K 2 0!> =!
>04I G=2,2) 2 =!0! >! ! GD,$G0 > !2D: *! G==!2D
= 2)! ,2 0G !> %H! $ G04G> 0!2 > 4= ! *!> 4= E
012!>> 4= 4 G> 4= 2J,!DK 2 4= 60,$D,2): 00
2 0!> =! 5MM9 2 DG= 0: ,>,D 1/;3 >!2 /, 2
$4004I 1/;3 >! 42
:

"2 =! D,H,DK = $D>1 2>*,6 2 !J !00!2 ! G2,$K ! *
6,! !: *! 6 2,>* = 2 1 /!> =D,> 2 )>
G>,2) 420K D*! *,)*!>D ;G 0,DK 1 D!=, 0> $=41 =!24I2
>G660,!=> ,2 D*! 0GJG=K ,2 G>D=K: * * 2 1 ! !>,)2
,> 4160!D!0K 6!=>42 0,>! 2 42!+4$+ +/,2 =!'! D,2)
D*! 6 >>,42 '4- 6GD> ,2D4 !H!=K !D ,0: ,>,D
+ #/( 2 /, 2 $4004I + #/( </ ! ( + 42
:

62 4G2 ! K ,2 DL/,




!>,)2> *,)* ;G 0,DK 0,)*D,2) 42 !6D> $4= K4G: >!

,2 !=0,2 !=1 2K ,2 <> 0,!2D> 66=! , D! *!=

>,)2 DG=! >DK0!? 41 ,2,2) 0 >> I,D* 14 !=2 &
42 !6D>: ,!I *!= 0 D!>D 6=4.! D> 42

+( 3 +(%&8(-%2 2 $4004I +( 3 +(%&8(-% 42
:

52 <> 1 2G/ *42!K >* 1644 ,> 2
!>>!2D, 0 $4= K4G= $G= K<> ! GDK =!),1!:
!=$! D $4= 00 >/,2 DK6!> 2 ! GD,$G00K > !2D! :
42D ,2> 2 DG= 0 ,2)=! ,!2D>: ,2 D*!1 D
8& ;3+/= 2 /, 4= $4004I 8& ;3+/= 42
:

- /F 2 8 = 9 90.) B'8 B.8 9 5@.= 9 ,
// /? 9'$,9 % , + ', + 8' $ 9%'8 4 @, % ', ?F?F =% 9'$,9 8
/# @=' @* , @,'5@ '='., =. ,D 0 8= . D.@8 %.+ %..9 8.+ =% '8
/" /; @=' @* 8 ,$ .8 9) .8 @9=.+ 8 ='.,4 '9'= (-/9& 3?/3 5 5(%-52 /2<*
/: (-/9& 3?/3 5 5(%-5

/- ?F .2 B 9 A *.0 =. =8 ,9 .8+ =% B D D.@ 9= D %D 8 = =%8.@$%
+', @* %D 8 ='., B'=% '*D * , . 8',)',$ B = 8 , 08 =' ',$
+', @*, 994 '=% %.@8*D +', @* + 8)',$9
'9 * ) 8.9= / *'=8
8 8 @9 * B = 8 .==* B'=% , 9D =. 9 B = 8 * A *4 ) 8 )
, 08 9 ,=4 '9'= + - /99+ 2 + - = /99+

0B2 79 9'$, =@8 . .,@=& 08' .= C , * 9 8 % , &0.@8
', .8.,=. , 8 A '* * ', *@C@8'.@9 9 ,=94 8 = D '.,

9 8 ,% 9 ', ?F/- *@9% 8.A '9 ., . , 79 A.@8'= .8
8 , 9 , %.+ =. =% '8 0.0@* 8 @=D * 0 '*) =4 %.0 =
/> +<5&%3/> 2 /, , .**.B +<5&%3/> ., 4

002
8 = 9 0* , = , 9.@* .,9 '.@9 0 0 8 $.. 9
9'$, =. ',90'8 @0*' = , 08.+.= +', @*, 994 '=% +@=
.*.@8 0 * == 9 0 ',= 8@9% '+08 99'.,9 , .,= +0.8 8D
=D0.$8 0%D !, =% 0 8 = $8 =',$ 8 9 .8 ** . 9'.,94
' =@8 '9 6 A .** ='.,74 '9'= ( ,3/@ -- 2 /2<*
( ,3/@ -- =/!" ( +

0;2
'9 *.A %'* . + '='., , 8 **'.,4 % '8
9'$, =@8 * % , * + ) 9 9= = + ,= ', 9=D* ,
9@9= ', '*'=D4 +..=% , .+ .8= * =. %.* 9'$, ,
8 = D % , ', 9+ ** = % 94 =% '8 = '*&B $$',$ .*.@89
= &() 2 /,2 < , &(=) =1 9 ., 4

0:2 + ',=. ',$ B% , 9+ ** $8.@0 .
8' , 9 , +'*D B'=% *.A . $', .**.B =% '8 8 +9 =.
8 = =% '8 .B, 08 +'@+ 8 , ',90'8 D 5@ *'=D *. * ',$8 ' ,=9 , =% '8
8@8 * @99 C 9@88.@, ',$94 % D ** '= 690'8'= =. *' = =% 90'8'=74 '9'=
(9 &+(-%'%(-2 /, (9 &+(-%%(-

0$2
*' A 9 =% 8 79 ,. 9@ % =%',$ 9 B =% 8 .,*D ', 008.08' =
*.=%',$4 % =79 B%D =% '8 (@+09@'=9 8 $8 = .8 .* , B = .8 B', D D94
% D78 $8 = ',A 9=+ ,= 0' =% = , B.8, .8 =%8 9 9.,9 '= ,
5@' )*D .+ D.@8 %'* 79 A.@8'= A 8D D .@=!= .8 .@= ..8 0* D '9'=
( +,2 /2<* ( +,2 /2<*

0#2 **',$ ** =8 , D .$ +@+9 %

4 00 8 *
*', '9 0 8 = .8 + = %',$ B'=% D.@8 *.A @8 ' 94 8',$',$ =.$ =% 8
5@ *'=D + = 8' *9 , $.8$ .@9 9'$, D.@ , C0*.8 =% 8 ,$ =
/%,/, % 325&/1 , .**.B = /%,/, % 3 ., 4

072 2 9'$, .8 .+ .8= , 0* D + =. *.A , *'A
',4 @, % ', ?F?F D 9'$, 8
%'
$@D ,
. 4 '9 +. 8, @9=8 *' , * *
., 'A 8.+ =% ',= ,='., =. 8 = 9@9= ', * , .+ .8= * *.=%',$ .8 %'* 8 ,
, B.+ ,4 %'00',$ B.8* B' = */ 9& + +2 /,2 < , .**.B */ 9& + + ., 4

062 '+ =. 8 = 9 90 .8 0 .0* . A 8D )$8.@, =.

C0*.8 =% '8 .B, , 8$' 9 ', 0* =% = '9 @, 99' * , +. 8,4 % D *' A =% =

/ =% 8 '9 9.+ =%',$ .8 A 8D., = 8D9= * =., B% =% 8 '= '9 =%
8D9= *9 B.8)9%.09 .++@,'=D .8 $.. * @$%4 '9'=

3A59 + - 59/- 2 / 3A59 +2 - 259/-

0 2 , * 9 ,=9 % A , ',90'8 D @,'5@ 9=', ='.,9
8.@, =% B.8* 4 8 ,90.8= D.@89 * 8.+ + ,79 B 8+ 9 8= '8
=. =% . , 8 E . =% %'*'00', '9* , 94 % , * '9 % ,
0.@8 B'=% 9.D B C , * , . 99 ,=' * .'*94 /FF3 , =@8 * ,
.& 8' , *D4 '9'= 9+ 5'+/- /-2 /, , .**.B 9+ 5==+/- /-
., 4

0.2 08$8 D.@8 %.+ B'=% 2 % ' 9 , * D '9
@,'5@ , C *@9'A +. 8, 9 @*0=@8 * , * 4 % ' 9 , *
'9 % , + ', ., ., , '9 $@ 8 ,= =. 8',$ , '8 .
* $ , , .@$' &, 99 =. D.@8 90 4 A '* * ', ; 9% 9 ,
" 9 ,=94 '9'= +/&2 /2<* +/&+/- /-

?/ ;B2 . 8 =.@ % . * $ ,
*@C@8D , 9=D* .8 D.@8 *'==* ., 94 % =% 8
'=79 9=8.** ', =% 0 8) .8 8 =',$ D.@8 0 8 =
,@89 8D =% D % A D.@ .A 8 4 8.@ 9'$, 8
, 8 =.8 . =%
B .8, D, 9=4

9 @8* A . 8 B.8* B' 9%'00',$
., 9 * = 08. @ =94 '9'=
1<3+ - ? > 2 /2<* , .**.B
1<3+= - =? > ., 4

;02 8 = *@C@8D .8 ='A

9.D , * 9 .8 =% +. 8, %.+ 4 , &

?? 0.@8 @9',$ , =@8 * 9.D B C , *'$%=*D
9 ,= B'=% 8.+ =' 8 $8 , 9 6 %
@=8 *

.** ='.,7 '9 =% 0 8 = %.+ .8 '='.,4

%.0 =% 9.@$%= = 8 =8 , ',$ 0' 9 =

&/> - + 52 /, , .**.B =% (.@8, D .,

&/> - + 5

;;2
'9 =% *= 8, ='A =. * .%.* B'=%
$@'*=& 8 )' )4 ) @** . 08 +'@+ .8$ ,'
$',$ 8 1> 32 =%'9 ., ,=8 = % 9 ..E &
8 '= B'=% 0* ,=D . % 8 = 84 .8 =%
0 8 = 9 8A +'C >F+* . 90 8)*',$
B = 8 , D.@8 $ 8,'9% . %.' 4 A '* * ',
9=.8 = * 8' $ 9 , = BBB49 * 8' $ 94 .+
.**.B %(, 3= 3(-* 1 2 , <*2%(, 32 /,

<;3

4+C2/+> /2 =0 ED E'




/+0+/ .+>C 0 >. - >+(08 ) += 20C /42= =J CH+>C E!
20 C) &2H = G > +> 0 + J..+ # CF= 4+ #2= J2F= E%
)2/ 0 2/ > +0 = 0( 2# >+K > 0 >) 4 > C2 >F+C DD
J2F= >CJ. 8 = #C #=2/ )+()*9F .+CJ 0 .20( . >C+0( E?
+=208 +>+C 6),'0= :: > 6 63 0- 0 #2..2H
6),'0= :: > 6 6 20
8 E1 DL

<%3 3

+> F>C2/ (+#C+0( E@
0 20 + =( > =G+ 2/4 0J > +0
(2>
+( =+ C) C F= C > .FIF=J 2I > 2# $0 (2F=/ C 0
(+#C> #2= 2=42= C > 0 +0 +G+ F .> H)2 G .F
= . C+20>)+4>8 ) J >4= ) 44+0 >> C)=2F() C) +=
C)2F()C#F. = 4 - ( > 0 (+#C> C2 G2- (= C
F0#2=( CC . I4 =+ 0 >8 +>+C . ,=@=5A3 0-

. . 0

<#3

+> 0 F>C= .+ 0 >
>C C+20 =J 2/4 0J8
F0 ) +0 ELEL = )+
C C+20 =J 2## => = 0( 2# (= C+0( = > C2 ) .4
+0>4+= 200 C+20 0 . = C #=+ 0 >)+4>8 2F 0
$0 C) += 20.+0 >C2= C &5 ')6: :)0. 5A3 0-3 = 2=
#2..2H C) / 20
&5 ')6: :)0. 5A

<83
20 20* 2=0 = 0

H > = C C2 D3
G2- 42>+C+G /2C+20> 0 +0>4+= H .. +0(8 >+0(

3LL7 >2J H I C) += F0+9F >+(0 CF= 0 . > +0 #2F=
2.2F=H J> 20,F= C) #= (= 0C >> 0 > 2# +()C
+ 20+ .2 C+20> .+ +C+0( / /2=+ > I4 =+ 0 > 2=
= />8 2..2H 20
,, '02 ,0. 0. 2= G+>+C
,, '02 3 03=+ 0 0C =

EL #2= EL7 +> 2F0C
5 I4+= > DLAL@AE368

<73 >). J 2H0 = 2# / - >
.FIF=J )+. = 0<> >>2=+ > #2= G =J J H =8 =
+C /> = / #=2/ 2=CF(F > 2=- # =+ C) C +>

C)+ . =C+$ 2=( 0+ 0 >F>C +0 . 8 +>+C
>). J<> H >+C '0. A 0- A 03 0- 0 #2..2H
.20( H+C) ) = 20
'0. A 0- A 0

< 3 2CC+>)* 2=0 =C+>C 0 >+(0 =



> +0 . >(2H =22C> ) = 4=+0C>

+0 C) 0 CF= . H2=. 4CF=+0( ) = F0+9F = H+0( >CJ.

C) C )2G => CH 0 = / 0 = .+CJ8 2) 00 <> DE
2.. C+20 >4 + .+> > +0 ) 0 +..F>C= C +0 =C

=+0C> 0 +.- >>2=+ >8 +>+C

*0' .. $ -).&3 0-
*0' .. $ -).&

</3
0>4+= J 2C. 0 0 C) 0(.+>) D'


8 8

LEL ?'11 1L!L D?L%
2F0C=J>+ +> /+I 2# 2=+(+0 . 0 D@
F= C >+(0> #2= C) )2/ 0 .+# >CJ. 8 CF=
+> C) .F &2= . .2 - 4=+0C C . .2C) #=2/ C) C .
.+0 0> 2.. C+208 C)2F()C#F. 0 F0+9F (+#C8 +>+C
6 :06+A 3 0- 0 #2..2H 6 :06+A 0!" ) , 20
8

;B3 4 +> ( 0 = 0 FC= . /2 =0 44 = . .+0 = C #2= C)
:.+CC. /+0+/ .+>C; ( @ /C)>*3EJ=>8 F>C +0 .J / H+C) .2G C)
2.. C+20> # CF= 9F .+CJ J =*=2F0 /2 =0 >+ > H+C) 42 - C 424
2# /20>C = #F0" EL7 2## H+C) 2

EL I4+= > DLAL@AE38
+>+C 6' . 6 663 0- 0 #2..2H 6' . 6 66 20
8

;13 #= >) J2F= )2/ 2= H+C) 4 =>20 ..J C +.2= >F > =+4C+20 2I >
J 3 + CF= ) = +> 4 =C 2# C) += 0 H . F0 ) ..
: G =J J ; H)+ ) +0 .F > FC+#F..J 20C /42= =J F>)+20>
2=0 / 0C> G > > 0 -+C ) 0H = 8 I4.2= C) += +## = 0C >F > =+4C+20
24C+20> 20.+0 C : > '0- 3 0- 0 #2..2H : > '0- 20
8

;<3 . ( 0 0 >CJ. C 0 ##2= . 4=+ 8 > +0 C) / . 0
.. J 4=2 F > 0 ) 0C+0( .FIF=J 0 .+/+C *

+C+20 0 . > G +. . +0 = 0( 2# >+K >8 .. 4=2 F C> = / H+C)
2 2J H I 0 4F= >> 0C+ . 2+.> G ( 0 =F .CJ*#= 0 2*#=+ 0 .J8
+>+C > 56 :0 - .03 0- 0 #2..2H > 56 :0 - .0 20
8

;;3

= ) 0 / +0 >/ .. C ) > C2 0>F= J2F

= ( CC+0( 4 =# C+20 ) 0 G =J C+/ 8 ) += .FIF=+2F> = 0( 2# > .#

= 4=2 F C> = C) 4 =# C H J C2 ) .4 J2F # . = . I 0 *

>C= >> 8 .. 2# C) += +0(= + 0C> = 2# C) )+() >C 9F .+CJ H+C) 02 ) =>)

2= C2I+ 4= > =G C+G >8 +>+C >) :05) 250 = :63. : 0 #2..2H

>) :05) 250 = :6 20
8

;%3 )

2=( 0+ G+0 J = > 0 H+0 =J = D%

0 >C. +0>+ C) FC+#F. 0 CF= = > =G 2# 20C

0F = 2 0 = / F + + +.+ 5 (=+( 0C26 +0 + +.J8

=+G C (F+ C2F=> 0 C >C+0(> = 2## = > >20 ..J8

+>+C )(&)0> .. 3 0- C2 22- H+0 =J C2F= 0 C >C+0( 2=

>)24 #2= I .F>+G + +.+ 0 H+0 > 0 2.+G 2+.8


)&)0> .. ?).

;#3

<> ..*0 CF= . 00 2 -C +.> =+0( #= >) 0
. ( 0C & G2F= H+C)2FC C) #F==J C C)8 +I F>+0(

=( 0+ H+0 0 3LL7 0 CF= . #=F+C C) > #F..J = J . .
0 20> +2F>.J* = #C 2 -C +.> = ..J = /F ) 0
= J 2# >F0>)+0 +0 0" F+.C #= (F.4+0( ,F>C (2C C >CJ8
+>+C 6)2!=,( 5).+63 0- 0 #2..2H 6)2!=, 5).+6 20
8

;83

= C > 0 CF= . >2J H I )2/ 2=
0 . > C) C = G ( 0 0 =F .CJ #= 8 J ) 0 +0
0 ) >C = C) += .FIF=+2F> 0 . > = > 0C H+C) C) +=
>+(0 CF= 2 2 2F #= (= 0 8
0C =0 C+20 . >)+44+0(
G +. . 8 )24 C) = 0( C -) . , 3 0-

-) . ,