Women's Health UK 09.2022

Strong Mind

The limits you Do off-the-cuff check-ins  is communication that’s about
set around Mini temperature checks may consent, but also, hopefully, fun,’
intimacy seem the opposite of sexy, but they says Dr Peterson. And you don’t
can be key to getting to know your have to be in the moment to talk
can translate partner better and staying current about turn-ons (and -offs); you
to other with what works (and what doesn’t) might be more comfortable setting
when dealing with topics such a boundary at another time. You
parts of your as intimacy. ‘Checking in during can apply this check-up approach
relationship sexual encounters – asking things to other aspects of life, too.
such as, “Does this feel good?” –
Learn another

language 

‘Want to go to bed early
tonight?’ or, ‘Want to
come home for lunch
today?’ Code words might
sound naff, but creating
your own languages and
rituals around consent
can be intimate and fun,
says Zoë Peterson,
director of the Sexual
Assault Research
Initiative at Indiana
University’s Kinsey
Institute. (Plus, great
for parents.) ‘Those types
of questions wouldn’t
work with a new partner,
but in established
relationships, they can
be great ways to ask for
consent.’ Bonus idea:
you can even use code
words when it comes
to less spicy subjects,
such as finances (saying
‘bread’, for example, to
signal to your partner
that you’d like to give
in and buy your toddler
that toy from the shop).

Model parenting model respect for personal boundaries, too, such as
allowing your child to put away a special toy they
Using the correct anatomical terminology (penis don’t want to share before friends come over. ‘When
and vulva); explaining what you’re doing when adults are respectful of children’s boundaries, it
touching your child (changing a nappy); stopping teaches children to speak up about their own and
your tickling when a child tells you to; not coercing to honour those of others,’ adds Dr Peterson. ‘That
kids to show affection (forcing goodbye hugs); sets the stage for good consent communication
asking your partner in front of your kids if they when they reach adolescence and adulthood.
want a kiss. These are the building blocks of
consent, says Aull. But there are other ways to

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 51

GOING TO COLLEGE AS TOLD TO MINI SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY: APOLLO FLUX
GAVE YASMIN THE
CHANCE TO DEFINE
HERSELF ON HER

OWN TERMS

Speaking
my mind

‘I thought being
asexual meant there

was something
repellent about me’

It may not get the same airtime as other sexualities, but asexuality is
as valid and complex as any other. Here, one asexual and aromantic

woman shares how her sexuality has affected her wellbeing

52 | SEPTEMBER 2022

I was in primary school I was a lesbian, a covert paedophile home. I still only knew a handful

when I realised I was asexual. or perhaps I’d been traumatised of asexual people who I’d met at

I was 10 years old and off by sexual assault and had buried it my local Pride march, but starting

the back of a long summer so deep that I’d forgotten all about afresh gave me the chance to build

holiday when my friends had it. People would hurl the words my confidence. For the first time,

transformed. In the space Yasmin Benoit, ‘hollow’ and ‘heartless’ at me, I realised maybe I wasn’t ‘stupid’
of those six weeks, it seemed 26, is an asexual divining that I lacked emotional or ‘wrong’, after all.
my peers had lost interest activist, model capacity or that I was somehow
in playing together. Now, ‘stunted’ or slow. That, or simply Still, it wasn’t until I’d finished
and writer my master’s degree at UCL in 2019
from Reading

it was all about who fancied naïve. Otherwise, they would ask that I began to really explore what

who. The transition felt explicit questions or do their best it meant to be asexual. By then,

jarring; I couldn’t work out why to shock me with pornography. Before long, I was regularly speaking about it

I didn’t feel the same way. their words lodged themselves in my brain. on social media, and I began to

I chose an all-girls secondary To hear constantly that there was receive invitations to speak on

school in the naïve hope that having something wrong with me, at a time when panel talks, too. The first time

boys around was the problem. I was still developing my sense of self, I got a message from someone

Maybe if there was no ‘distraction’, meant I began to internalise that message. to say I’d changed the way they

I thought, the girls wouldn’t care I developed serious anxiety over doing thought about themselves, I

about dating and sex. That wasn’t anything wrong – anxiety that manifested realised my voice had the potential

the case, of course, and it was in a toxic perfectionism, where one bad to help people, which inspired me

obvious that I felt differently. grade would devastate me. But the anxiety to do even more speaking.

It was around that time that I was social, too. Projecting those cruel words Everyone experiences romance

started to think of my feelings as back on to myself, I felt as though there was and sexuality in a different way;

a thing, rather than an absence of something repellent about ask someone

something. But it wasn’t until I ‘I realised myme, that I was deeply flawed what love is
turned 15 that I found the language
to describe how I felt. One night, in some way. I began to and you’ll get
voice had theavoid socialising as much as
100 different

after hearing the word at school, I possible; there were times potential to answers.
looked up ‘asexual’ online. I’d heard during the school holidays Just because

‘aromantic’ before, but I didn’t when I’d see no one at all. help people’ someone
really understand the distinction. A recurring theme in the happens to

Still, no one believed me when reactions from others was experience

I used the labels, so they felt pretty that I didn’t ‘look asexual’. They didn’t those feelings in a way that you

pointless. And feeling different in admit as much, but I knew being Black personally can’t relate to doesn’t

this way didn’t feel like a problem to was the reason – our society is so used to make them cold-hearted – it’s

solve. As a Black girl living in a fairly hypersexualising Black girls that even just another variation in the way

white area, who loved heavy metal though everything about me was screaming we all experience emotions and

and dressing like a goth, I was used asexual, I still wasn’t believed. Not fitting respond to them.

to standing out. And it wasn’t the bill of the ‘typical’ white asexual I know now that there’s nothing

something that I really cared about. people I’d seen in the media meant that inherently wrong with being

I thought, ‘Why would I care about community was hard to find, too. asexual or aromantic; more than

what I’m not feeling?’ It was when My anxiety even grew into hypochondria. that, you can live a happy and

my peers started caring that the I bombarded my doctor with the ailments I fulfilling life. That’s what I would

issues really began. thought would kill me. And I was constantly tell my younger self. And it’s

It started with people trying to worried about crime, picturing the worst just what I intend to do now.

work out what was ‘wrong’ with me. each time I walked home from school. For more information and support,
Everyone (my friends included) What helped, I think, was starting sixth visit the Asexual Visibility & Education

would come up with a theory; maybe form at a boarding school miles away from Network (AVEN) at asexuality.org

Asexuality and What do ‘asexual’ and How might identifying What advice would
aromanticism: ‘aromantic’ mean? as asexual affect your you offer anyone who
mental health? thinks they might be
the expert Asexual people don’t experience asexual or aromantic?
view sexual attraction towards It doesn’t affect mental health
anyone, regardless of gender. It’s per se, but society’s stigma Connect with others who
Dr Silva Neves like any other sexual orientation, might. Asexual people are share your identity. Being
specialises in which means it’s self-identified, often perceived as ‘broken’ or around people who truly
part of human sexual diversity ‘immature’ because they don’t understand you can help you
psychosexual and and a spectrum. People who feel desire. The same goes for feel like part of a ‘tribe’ as
relationship therapy identify as aromantic experience aromantic people about ‘always opposed to feeling ‘broken’
and issues affecting a lack of romantic attraction being single’ or not wanting to or ‘weird’ because you don’t
towards anyone but may ‘settle down’. These judgements fit in with the rigid rules of
diverse sexualities experience sexual attraction. cause issues, not the orientation. society’s sexual norms.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 53



Best Body

How to
build a
workout
like a PT

If the idea of putting together your
own muscle-making plan is Ikea flat-
pack territory, worry not. With a little

guidance, you’ll be your own PT in
no time. Zero Allen keys required

WORDS: CAITLIN CARLSON
PHOTOGRAPHY: MARTIN RUSCH

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 55

MOVE THIS WAY

Consider this your glossary of the main patterns every exerciser
should know. Select a move from each bucket to develop a strength

workout that nets results. Gains are just around the corner

PUSH

You push in the real world more than you think, using this
chest-dominant gesture to close drawers, doors and
cabinets, says Dr Fraboni. Or to press a barbell.

move and which muscles they What it works  Must-do moves
recruit. A push, for example,
primarily involves chest muscles Chest, shoulders, Shoulder tap to press-up,
and allows you to – you guessed it triceps dumbbell chest press, lateral
– push a door open or do a press-up raise, shoulder press, chest fly
on the floor. A push movement is
wo smart, super-fit one of the four biggies, and you’ve PULL
trainers walk into an probably heard of the other three:
exercise conference. pull, hinge and squat.  Spend too much time on your phone? ‘Add pull exercises to
Naturally, they decide to combat that forwards tendency,’ Dr Fraboni says. Yogis, take
work out together. Nope, If you want to sweat like a pro note: counteract those yogic press-ups and reduce the chance
no punchline coming – (meaning: do structured workouts
this is a true story. When in the smartest way to build muscle of shoulder injury with pull movements.
certified trainer Angela and strength – and change your
Gargano and Jen Fraboni, body composition while you’re at What it works  Must-do moves 
owner of docjenfit.com it, if that’s a goal), this is a must-
(@docjenfit), first met know approach. ‘It helps build body Back, biceps, forearms  Bent-over row, pull-up, chin-up
at a business event, they awareness and sets the baseline
decided there was no for a solid workout structure,’ says HINGE STYLING: KRISTEN SALADINO. HAIR: SHERIDAN WARD. MAKE-UP: BREN ROBERTSON/
better time to create Dr Fraboni. Doing similar motions CLOUTIER REMIX. MODEL: TASHA FRANKEN FOR DT MODELS. PRODUCTION: WONDER PARTNERS
a fitness friendship. over and over again – in slightly To build hip strength and overall explosiveness, or to grow those
In typical trainer style, different ways – works most, if glutes, you want to improve your hinge pattern, Dr Fraboni says.
they hit the gym together not all, muscle groups, which is
and crafted a flawless ultimately how you get stronger, Exercises that fall into this category ramp up hamstring, glute
full-body routine that Gargano points out.  and hip extension power – all crucial for distance running, too. 
targets all muscle groups.
To do that, they applied What’s more, programming What it works Must-do moves
what trainers consider a mix of patterns ensures you stay
the bread-and-butter balanced and injury-free. For Glutes, Romanian deadlift, single-leg
movement patterns. ‘We instance, when you do all hinges hamstrings deadlift, glute bridge
knew that we wanted to and no squats, you overwork the
do something quick and rear of the lower body, Dr Fraboni SQUAT
effective, so we made says. ‘To maximise hip strength and
sure we had the right power, you need one, maybe two, Squat patterns bolster strength and stability. Runners: even
patterns in the workout,’ heavy hinge exercises.’ Then you’d though your sport recruits a lot of quad movement, practise
Gargano explains.  counter that work by, say, adding squatting to support the knees and hip flexors, so you can
a squat to improve knee strength
The term ‘movement and stability and reduce pain. go faster and further without discomfort.
patterns’ simply refers to
a method of categorising So, without further ado, allow us
exercises based on how to introduce you to the must-know
they force your body to patterns, the most effective moves
for each and the easy ways to put
it all together for an expertly
crafted full-body sweat.

What it works Must-do moves

Quads, glutes, hamstrings Goblet squat,
heels-elevated squat 

56 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Previous spread:
Top and leggings,

both Lanston;
earrings, model’s
own (throughout)

This page:
Top, Alala;

bottoms,
Volcom; shoes,

BrandBlack

Body bonus

Get familiar with these important
add-ons that can take your
workout to the next level

LATERAL CARRY

Side-to-side patterns Grip strength is often
work muscles that overlooked in training
plans. But a weak grip
supply more power and
control. ‘Don’t stick can keep you from
to forwards and PBs such as a heavier
backwards exercises,’ deadlift or that third
Dr Fraboni urges. pull-up. Enter: carry
patterns to reinforce
What it works
palm and forearm
Lateral moves hit an power.
impressive variety of
muscles along the side What it works
of the body, Dr Fraboni
says, including the Grip, core strength
glutes and adductors
Must-do moves
(inner thighs).
Classic farmer’s carry,
Must-do moves overhead and

Lateral lunge, curtsy single-arm variations
lunge, skater 

FULL-BODY This workout hits every movement
STRENGTH pattern and muscle group. Do it up to
three days a week. Once comfortable,
bring in other must-do moves listed
in each category to keep the gains
great and the workouts fresh.
Instructions: Using a pair of medium
to heavy dumbbells, do the following
moves in order (push, pull, hinge,
squat, then bonus patterns) for 30
to 45 secs each, with 10 to 15 secs of
rest in between. Do 3 or 4 total sets. 

Exercises demoed by Ashley Reese,
founder of Reese Fitness

A PULL

B Gorilla row

c HOW TO: Stand with your feet wider than hip-width apart
and place the dumbbells between your feet. Keeping your
PUSH  spine long, bend your knees and lower your hips to grasp the
dumbbells with your palms facing in, arms extended (A). Lift
Shoulder tap to press-up one weight off the floor towards your ribs (B), then slowly

HOW TO: Begin in a high plank position with your hands slightly wider than lower it back down. Repeat with the other arm.
your shoulders, legs extended (A). Keeping your back flat and hips square with
AB
the floor, tap your right hand to your left shoulder (B). Repeat on the other
side. Return to high plank, then bend your elbows and lower your chest
towards the floor (C). Press up to return to the start. 

HINGE  SQUAT EXERCISE PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP FRIEDMAN. STYLING: ANN WANG. HAIR AND MAKE-UP:
ELOISE CHEUNG. ASHLEY WEARS: TOP, CALIA; LEGGINGS, OLD NAVY; SHOES, REEBOK
Romanian Goblet squat

A deadlift HOW TO: Stand with your feet slightly
wider than hip-width apart, holding a
HOW TO: With your dumbbell in both hands at chest height
feet hip-width apart, (A). Bend your knees into a squat, keeping
hold the dumbbells your chest upright (B). Pause, then drive
close to your body by through your heels and glutes to stand.
the hips, palms facing in
(A). Keeping your spine B
long, send your hips
back with control as
you hinge forwards at
the waist. Keeping the
dumbbells close to your
body, lower the weights
to your shins, or as far

down as you can
without curving your
spine (B). Pause, then
reverse the movement
to return to the start,
engaging your glutes
and core at the top.
B

A

Why this
workout?

We know you have questions.

And we have answers

LATERAL  Why aren’t How much
there any does the
Lateral lunge  classic abs order of the
moves in movement
HOW TO: Stand with your this plan? patterns
feet hip-width apart, a really matter?
dumbbell in each hand, We love a fiery
core blaster. But You can play
then step your left foot out with a plan like around with the
to the left, landing with this, they aren’t order a bit, just
necessary. ‘You’re try to space out
your knee bent and in line using your core in upper- and
with your ankle, weights every single one lower-body moves,
on either side of your knee. of the movements,’ per Gargano’s
Drive through your left heel Gargano says. If advice. (So you
and engage your glutes to you want to do don’t exhaust any
return to the start. Repeat more abs-focused one muscle group). 
work, go for it.
on the opposite side. Just know that Can I add
if you’re hitting in other
CARRY  the movement exercises?
patterns here,
Farmer’s carry you’re already Of course. You can
doing plenty (and (and should) keep
HOW TO: Stand tall with more) for your in mind that you
a dumbbell in each hand abs and the rest don’t live life in a
at your sides, palms facing of your body. The contained manner.
in. Squeeze your shoulder same reasoning ‘We twist and
blades together and engage goes for, say, rotate even when
your core and glutes, then biceps curls or walking,’ notes
walk forwards for several other arm-specific Dr Fraboni. So,
steps without letting the movements.  including exercises
weights swing. Pause, then with a rotational
turn and return to the start.  Why time, aspect – such
not reps?  as throwing a
medicine ball
Focusing on the laterally against
clock allows you a wall, or doing
to worry less about cable machine
how many reps wood chops – is
you’re completing also a great way
and instead to mimic everyday
focus on the movement.
form and feel of
the movement,
Gargano says. 

Top, Aritzia;
shorts, Araks;
shoes, Axel Arigato

60 | SEPTEMBER 2022

New research suggests a regular
yoga practice could lead to a more

satisfying intimate life. Here, yogi
Angie Tiwari explores the link
between poses and pleasure

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 61

There are few feelings in life that compare 01
with the full-body calm that comes after
a well-taught yoga class. With the exception, Go with 02
perhaps, of a satisfying sexual encounter. the flow
So it may not surprise you to learn that
researchers are connecting the dots. 01 03 WORDS: ANGIE TIWARI (@TIWARIYOGA). PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY
Corpse pose Bridge pose IMAGES. *SOURCE: JOURNAL OF HEALTHCARE ENGINEERING
A study published in The Journal Of Sexual (savasana)  (setu bandhasana) 
Medicine found that women who engaged in
a 12-week yoga programme reported higher Here, you can find the freedom A pelvic floor and core
levels of desire, arousal, lubrication, orgasm to enjoy sexual pleasure. ‘It’s strengthener that will fire
and satisfaction, as well as lower levels of common when you’re close to up your glutes and increase
pain. The idea has infiltrated the digital orgasm to breathe shallowly,’ blood flow to the pelvic area
realm, too. Last year, a TikTok video by says Jamie Clements, founder – all of which make the bridge
@yogamama_ claiming that frog pose (see of the breathwork platform a prime sexual-function
image eight, right) can improve your sex The Breath Space. ‘This can enhancer, according to sex
life notched up over 14 million views. detract from the fullness of the coach Rose Bonham Carter.
experience. Breathing deeply Try it: Lie down, bend your
For Laurie Mintz, a psychology professor creates relaxation, allowing you knees and ground your feet
at the University of Florida and author of a deeper sense of pleasure.’ close to your glutes, hip-width
Becoming Cliterate, one explanation is yoga’s Try it: Lie on your back, eyes apart. With your hands on the
ability to keep you grounded in the moment. closed, legs and arms out to the ground, lift your glutes up. As
‘Yoga teaches mindfulness, which is an side. Turn your palms upwards, you lift, keep your head and
essential component for desire and arousal soften your breath and stay shoulders grounded. Interlace
– you can’t orgasm when you’re thinking for five minutes. Refrain from your fingers underneath to lift
about how you look, your “performance” judgement as your mind wanders. higher. Hold for one minute.
or your emails,’ she explains. A 2021 study
supports this, showing positive links between 02
mindfulness and sexual satisfaction and Energising breath
arousal in women. Consider, too, that yoga (kapalabhati pranayama) 
has been shown in countless studies to reduce
stress, and that cortisol dampens desire as Centuries ago, this tantric
effectively as long toenails, and you begin technique was believed to delay
to understand why yogic practice could be ejaculation. Today, these claims
so powerful an intervention. are backed by science, too. A
2019 study found the technique
That’s before you consider the physical to ‘significantly increase duration
benefits of regular practice – from the blood- of the sexual act’, helping prolong
oxygenating power of  pranayama (controlled pleasure for both sexes.   
breathing) to the way yoga can strengthen Try it: Sit upright, eyes closed,
your pelvic floor, along with your ability and forcefully exhale through
to orgasm. One study, published this year, the nostrils while contracting
showed that yoga significantly improved your stomach. Your inhale will
both the pelvic and mental health of follow automatically.
post-partum women in particular*.

And yet, for Cat Meffan, founder of the yoga
subscription service Soul Sanctuary, it’s the
relationship with yourself that yoga helps you
nurture that explains the link with better sex.
‘It’s true that being more mobile allows you
to enjoy new positions, but it’s so much more
than that,’ she says. ‘Over time, yoga teaches
you to look inwards, to delve deeper and to find
an authentic connection with yourself.’ It’s
this, she believes, that’s truly behind its ability
to let you be in your body in the way that real
pleasure requires. Ready to lean into the latest
mind-body benefits of yoga? Here, Angie
Tiwari, founder of Tiwari Yoga (tiwariyoga.
com), shares a 15-minute flow to get you
back in your body and – hopefully – guide
you towards a more satisfying intimate life.

62 | SEPTEMBER 2022

03 Best Body
06
06
04 Belly breathing
07 (adham pranayama)

05 Pranayama has been used for
centuries for its various health
04 05 benefits, ranging from lowering
Happy baby pose Lizard pose blood pressure to improving
(ananda balasana) (utthan pristhasana)  emotional regulation. It works
like this: deeper breath increases
This restorative hip opener Here, you’re stretching your blood flow, sending more
releases tension and increases back, lengthening your spine oxygen around the body to your
pelvic flexibility, both of which and opening your hips, muscles (and your genitals).
are key components of a increasing blood flow to your Try it: Sit upright and inhale
satisfying orgasm. sexual organs. It’ll strengthen through your nose for three
Try it: Lie on your back, legs your hamstrings and hips, as counts, then exhale for six counts.
up. Bend your knees and hold well as improving your mobility.  As you inhale, your stomach
your toes. Focus on bringing Try it: Start on all fours, placing expands, and as you exhale
your knees down, breathe deeply one foot to the front with your it contracts. Practise for two
and hold for two minutes. Keep hands on the inside. Either keep minutes with closed eyes.
your head and neck grounded your back knee down or tuck Observe how you feel.
to avoid straining your upper your toes and lift. Allow your
back. If you feel this happening, hips to sink down and lower 07
support yourself by popping your forearms while keeping Water hand gesture
a folded blanket under your your chest lifted. Maintain (varun mudra) 
head, or holding a looped steady breathing for two
strap around your feet.  minutes, then slowly release. Connecting with your water
element – linked in yoga to the
second chakra, located in the
region of your pelvis – is thought
to enhance sexual expression.
Sceptical? Research suggests
that yoga could improve sexual
function, with the effects most
pronounced for women over 40.
Try it: Start seated and upright.
Connect your pinky finger with
your thumb, and place your hands
on your knees. Be aware of the
connection between these points.
Call your mind back if it wanders
08 off, holding for one minute. 

08
Frog pose
(bhekasana)

If you’re tight around your groin,
bhekasana can help to ease any
lingering tension, while increasing
blood circulation to the pelvic
area – key to facilitating arousal.
Try it: Begin on your hands and
knees, pointing your feet and
knees outwards. Widen your
legs and push your hips back.
You’ll start to feel a stretch in
your inner thighs. Hold for a
minute, but remember to keep
breathing – it’s a strong one so
you may find yourself holding
your breath. A bit much?
Modify it by placing a folded
blanket under your knees.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 63

Best Body

Are you seeing
comfortably?

If there’s a silver lining to our digital-first lives, it’s that it’s opened
our eyes to the health of our corneas. Here, ophthalmologist
Jerry Tsung reveals how he keeps his retinas in fine fettle

Give your eyes A sight for
a lunch break sore eyes

The popular 20-20-20 Nourish
rule says you should look your eyes

away from your screen I jumped on the
every 20 minutes at Mediterranean-diet
bandwagon in a serious
something 20 feet away way when research
for 20 seconds to relieve found it might reduce
the risk of age-related
digital eye strain. But if macular degeneration
the only counting you’re (AMD) by 41%. This
produce-filled diet
doing is items on your can help prevent the
to-do list, try this instead. inflammation that may
contribute to AMD. It’s a
Close your eyes for 10 cliché but I love avocado
minutes on your lunch toast for breakfast and
lunch will often be a kale
break and listen to a and quinoa salad.
meditation app. Your eyes
get tired with intense use; Lather your lids
closing them is like taking
a rest between sets during Eyelid hygiene: it’s a
thing. Your eyelids collect
a workout. Headspace oil all day long. After
equals eye space. hours of screens, the oil
glands along the lashes
Sweat to save Ban screens Block out get clogged. Tears AS TOLD TO SARAH E RICHARDS. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
your retinas from the ultraviolet rays evaporate more quickly
bedroom and the eyes become
A recent study found that I’m obsessive about crusty and irritated. I put
exercise can actually help I keep my phone from putting on my Ray-Bans a little baby shampoo
maintain good eye health. intruding on my night as soon as I step outside. on a cloth, apply it on
Since reading it, I’ve been by disabling notifications UV light is linked to ageing my lids and rinse with
doing 100 press-ups daily, so I don’t get woken up by diseases such as cataracts water. This is my version
texts. Extra awake time and macular degeneration, of a digital detox at the
along with a Peloton means you’re doing more and harm can start end of the day.
session three times a harmful things to your adding up by your forties.
week. Physical activity eyes, such as staring Indoors, I don’t wear
may stave off some of the at screens. You’re also glasses to block blue
cell ageing that leads to depriving your body of light – I haven’t seen any
macular degeneration – a the sleep that helps your research that shows they
degenerative condition eyes regain moisture. help with eye fatigue.
affecting the retina, which
results in partial or total
loss of vision. Being active
can also help prevent
diabetes, which damages
the blood vessels that

feed your retinas.

64 | SEPTEMBER 2022

How Best Body
I get fit

‘Swimming done
changed
my life –
now I teach
other
women’

Minreet Kaur, 41, from
west London, wants to share
the power of fitness – and
her love for it – with others in
the South Asian community

AS TOLD TO BRIDIE WILKINS Growing up, I hated exercise, wraps within the community Proudest PB videos on social media of myself in
but things changed when I turned where we live in Harlington. I once swam swimwear and actively swimming.
40. I developed a painful lump in underwater for I received so many comments from
my neck, which a scan showed This cultural stigma means the length of South Asian women thanking me
as fatty tissue caused by weight many South Asian women aren’t a 25m pool and asking for more of the same
gain during lockdown. I was told taught to swim as children – my content, I began to practise in the
that the lump wasn’t dangerous, mother taught me, but I was never Dream rest day pool more often. Three months later,
but could cause long-term pain. really comfortable going to public Sitting in the I took on an even bigger challenge.
As an overweight diabetic, I was pools. Knowing I was carrying
motivated to make a change. excess weight gave me the push garden, drinking I entered a competition at my
I needed. The first time I went a cup of masala local gym to swim five miles in 30
My parents, both in their to a local leisure centre pool was tea and eating days, and did it within five days.
seventies, prioritise fitness, so terrifying, but it was exciting, too. some chocolate I was over the moon and shared
I looked to them for inspiration. the news on social media. I didn’t
My father loves skipping and my Over the course of four weeks, Can’t-live- expect what happened next. But
mother swims every day, so I began going four times a week, swimming without fit kit before long, I was inundated with
skipping at home or swimming became my favourite form of My Nike Pegasus requests from women asking me
at my local gym daily. I cut out exercise. I’d swim to get fitter and running shoes. to teach them how to swim – and I
the chocolate and crisps that had build strength in my arms and jumped at the chance to help them.
become a habit and introduced a legs, but I also wanted to prove to Running is
more nutritionally balanced diet. other South Asian women that another form of Now, three months later, I’m a
showing your skin and exercising qualified swimming teacher and
I felt fitter and happier within for your own wellbeing is nothing fitness I enjoy have a waiting list of 40 women.
days of moving more and eating to be ashamed of. I felt called to My goal is to make it accessible to
more healthily, but this kind of share the confidence that everyone; if my mum can dive in
lifestyle change isn’t always easy swimming was giving me. and do tumble turns at the age
for South Asian women. In some of 71, anyone can do it.
South Asian cultures it’s seen as With the support of my parents,
taboo for women to show their I started to share pictures and
skin in public, which can make
wearing gymwear and swimwear
difficult. What’s more, prioritising
your own health and wellbeing
as a woman above household
chores or the family’s needs is
often deemed selfish. I feel lucky
that my father has always
encouraged my family to exercise
in ways that worked for us, but
even though my mother enjoys
swimming, she keeps it under

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 65



Wear Well

PHOTOGRAPHY
JEFFREY WESTBROOK

WORDS
JACQUELINE
ANDRIAKOS AND
CAITLIN CARLSON

Introducing: the WH Trainer Awards.
From the best shoes to ground you
beneath a barbell to a cushiony base
to save your #sundayrunday shins,
you’re about to meet your match

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 67

How we test Outdoor Saucony Women’s Nike React Pegasus
Peregrine 12, £135 Trail 4, £114.95
With the help
of seven fitness Laura McLaughlin, managing These are great for trail runs and
coaches (and editor of WH US, highly rates easy hikes, says PT Toni Livers.
one foot-health these trail-running shoes for Made with soft cushioning and
expert), we tested their great treads. ‘I like that breathable mesh, they’ll keep
more than 100 I can tuck in the laces and that you comfortable while you’re
pairs of trainers it’s a pull, not a tie,’ she says. crushing your workout.
over several
months, bolstering
our results by
poring over
countless customer
reviews to better
understand the
common themes
shared by the
women who
already own them.
Then, to narrow
down the shortlist,
we honed in on the
most innovative,
female-focused,
new trainer drops,
the tried-and-
tested favourites
of WH editors and
the most highly
rated trainers
based on detailed
customer reviews.
Now, the results
are in. Whether
you’re in the
market for shoes
to help you nail
a trail or nudge
you closer to a
parkrun PB, or
a compliment-
collecting pair
that will take
you from gym to
park to pub, the
six categories
ahead cover all
your needs, so
you can work
out comfortably
and in style.

68 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Ecco Biom 2.0, £130 Timberland Euro Wear Well
Swift Hiking
These trainers are specially Shoe, £115 Running
designed to keep your feet
cool and dry with breathable, Get ready for lengthy hikes Xero Shoes Zelen,
moisture-managing mesh. £129
Plus, no socks required. in these sturdy, sustainably
Perfect for those days when Not a fan of big, clunky running
the mercury edges up to 30. made boots, which have steel shoes? This pair keeps you at
one with the road beneath
shanks to support your arches, you, given its minimalist
design, barely there feel and
plus lightweight footbeds. wide toe box that helps you
avoid scrunching your toes.
And they’re eco-friendly, too,
so you can hit your next sprint
sustainably and in style.

Brooks Hyperion
Tempo, £140

These shoes feature nitrogen-
infused foam that helps you
get more bang for your buck
when it comes to energy. Of
course, they’re still lightweight
and the materials adapt to
your stride, allowing you to run
faster and recover quicker.
What more do you need?

Adidas Ultraboost
22, £165

The latest iteration of the
Ultraboost was redesigned
and engineered by an
all-female product team
based on 1.2 million scans of
women’s feet – so you know
you’re getting a running shoe
with you in mind. It’s known
for its sock-like, springy
design that feels like you’re
wearing pillows – all while
propelling you forwards.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 69

Cross APL Ascend, £225 Nike React Infinity
Training Run Flyknit 3, £144.95
An excellent choice for all
the workout generalists out ‘What I love most about these
there. A heads-up, though: shoes is that I can run, walk
WH US health and fitness my dog, strength train, teach
director Jacqueline Andriakos my fitness classes and dance
recommends upsizing by in them,’ says Jenna Matroni,
half a shoe size. a fitness trainer and model.

70 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Hoka Rocket X, £155 Ryka Declare XT, Wear Well
from £71.81
Deal with arch or heel pain Active Life
during workouts? Podiatrist ‘I prefer to sweat barefoot, but
Yolanda Ragland not only these shoes help protect my On The Roger
recommends these to patients, achy knees during HIIT while Advantage, £130
but also wears them herself. still feeling comfortable,’ says
‘I love them, especially when I Amanda Lucci, WH US deputy Ah, that fresh white trainer
have hours-long procedures.’ editor of content strategy. feel! Co-created with tennis
legend Roger Federer, these
shoes are designed to offer
the wearer comfort all day
long. Yes, they feel weighty,
but the minimal stitching
provides a clean, crisp look
wherever you are, whether
you’re hitting deuces or
the juice bar post-workout.

Allbirds Women’s
Tree Pipers, £100

‘These shoes feel broken in
from day one,’ Andriakos says.
Not enough? They’re carbon-
neutral, made from sustainable
materials such as eucalyptus
tree fibre. Don’t worry about
muddy marks, either – you can
just pop them in the washing
machine for a quick fix. Score.

Asics Lyte
Classic, £75

Fashionable yet functional,
it’s hard not to be a fan of
these bright, citrusy Asics
shoes that are made to be
worn all day long. They’re
one of Andriakos’s everyday
favourites, too, thanks to
inserts so comfy they feel
like expensive orthotics.
A great all-rounder.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 71

Speciality Babolat Propulse Fury Oofos OOmg Mesh Rapha Classic
All Court, £129.99 Low, £130 Shoes, £190

Forehand, backhand – whatever Recovery shoes are trending – This road-cycling shoe, with an
shot you’re taking, know you’ll and for good reason. This pick average of 4.7 stars from almost
be supported by this tennis shoe. has thousands of good reviews, 300 reviews on the Rapha site,
The grippy sole provides traction as well as special foam, which is gets top marks for its clean
to keep you on your feet when designed to reduce stress on your design, all-day comfort and
you’re chasing any shot. knees, ankles and other joints. race-ready stiffness.

72 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Weightlifting APL TechLoom Reebok Legacy Nike Metcon 7, £114.95
Tracer, £305 Lifter II, £150
When we posted an Instagram
‘These shoes have been my go-to One reviewer said, ‘The raised poll asking for people’s go-to
for weightlifting for years,’ says heel provides nice stability for weightlifting shoes, the Metcons
Andriakos, who has them in five lifting and overhead squats so won by a landslide. They’re great
(yes, five!) colours. ‘I have a very I can focus on form without for big lifts and cross training and
narrow foot, and the knit material being limited by my ankle are an all-time favourite of our
feels as if it moulds to my foot.’ inflexibility.’ Sounds good to us. editor-in-chief Claire Sanderson.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 73

WH PROMOTION FOR BLUEIRON

Feeling tired? to your muscles. If you’re not result in the iron not
Here’s how getting enough, the lack of being absorbed properly,’
to get your oxygen can leave you feeling adds Brothers.
oomph back zapped of energy.
How can you improve
A lack of energy is no fun but upping your Here, Brothers reveals the your energy levels?
iron intake could have you full of beans. Literally signs that show you may be Start by addressing any
in need of a boost – and the nutrient black holes in your
Do you often feel Low iron levels affect steps you can take to feel diet. ‘If you eat meat, make
exhausted, no matter how 23% of pregnant women better again. sure it’s high-quality, organic
much sleep you get? Do you and 14% of non-pregnant red meat and dark poultry,
feel like your energy levels women*, and can contribute How can you tell if as these are high in heme iron
are through the floor? Are to feelings of tiredness and you’re low in iron? – the most easily absorbed
you often fatigued by the fatigue. This is because iron is ‘You may start feeling form,’ Brothers suggests. ‘If
end of the day? If so, you a vital component of red blood exhausted, even though you’re vegetarian or vegan,
could be low in iron. cells, which transport oxygen your lifestyle hasn’t changed,’ add in foods high in non-
says Brothers. ‘If you’re heme iron, such as lentils,
‘Even a slight lack of iron concerned, ask your GP for beans, dark leafy greens and
can impact your day-to-day a blood test.’ Women are beetroot. To get the maximum
life,’ explains Le’Nise typically lower in iron than benefit from plant sources,
Brothers, nutritionist and men due to menstruation and consume with vitamin C
author of You Can Have pregnancy. ‘Other common – think orange juice or fresh
a Better Period (£10.99, causes are poorly planned fruit and vegetables – to help
Watkins). So it’s important vegan and vegetarian diets, increase iron absorption.’
your diet contains enough and digestive issues that
to safeguard against this. Daily
safety net

Alongside a healthy, ILLUSTRATION: MAGGIE STEPHENSON. *NICE. **FOOD SUPPLEMENTS SHOULD
balanced diet, NOT BE USED AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR A VARIED DIET AND HEALTHY LIFESTYLE

a supplement can
be a fuss-free way to
achieve 100% of your
recommended daily
amount of iron**. Easily
absorbed and gentle on
the stomach, BlueIron
Liquid Iron is made with
Nordic blueberries for
a delicious way to help
you hit your quota.
It’s suitable for vegans,
safe for pregnant women,
and can be taken with

or without food.

BlueIron Liquid Iron is
available at boots.com

and amazon.co.uk

74 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Beauty Lab

The case for

skinplicity

In the confusing world of skincare, where hi-tech
ingredients and 10-step routines reign supreme,
could doing less actually do more for your skin?

Words Amelia Bell

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 75

There are certain scenarios in life where
less is definitely more. The four-day hen
do with an itinerary longer than your work
to-do list. The 12-course tasting menu that
turns out to be foam over flavour. And, as
I found out the hard way, skincare.

A few years ago, my bathroom cabinets
would have made a minimalist wince. Little
vials of vitamin C, tall essences and every
kind of acid filled the shelves. I treated
skincare like speed dating; chopping and
changing when products failed to live up
to expectation and swiping left when the
next shiny thing in skincare came along.
I’m not alone, either. A staggering 78% of
those quizzed by the Swedish beauty brand
Foreo in a 2021 global survey said they’d
expanded their skincare routine since the
start of the pandemic. #Skincare was the
top hashtag in beauty on Twitter in 2021*,
while the famed #skincareshelfie has now
amassed over a million views on TikTok.

It’s all added up to skincare DIY SOS *ACCORDING TO SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORM SPRINKLR
routines with more steps than an
episode of Strictly. And yet, show When I share this news with
me a person whose 10-step routine Stefanie Williams, dermatologist
has delivered on their glowy-skin and founder of Eudelo skin clinic,
goal and I’ll show you a sceptical she isn’t that surprised. ‘I often
eyebrow raise. For all my diligence see patients who are overusing
(I schooled up on acids, invested in skincare,’ she confirms. ‘Most are
at-home facial tools and got to grips over-moisturising (using too many
with multi-masking), the luminous moisturisers or lipid-rich formulas)
complexion I anticipated never or layering too many products,
arrived. A rash that no amount of causing the skin to become “bumpy”
moisturiser could manage spread or congested with open or closed
from one side of my forehead right comedones (blackheads or
down to my chin; cleansers stung whiteheads).’ Meanwhile, on the
my face, while toners left it tight. other side of the spectrum is over-
Far from being in peak skin health, exfoliating. ‘This refers to the use
my complexion was looking worse of irritating ingredients such as
than it ever had. retinoids (vitamin A derivatives

76 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Beauty Lab

that have been proven to increase
cell turnover and minimise fine
lines) or alpha hydroxy acids
(AHAs), such as glycolic and lactic
acid),’ adds Dr Williams. In excess,
both can cause redness, dryness,
itchy skin and, in severe cases,
contact dermatitis – a rash that
looks similar to eczema.

An explanation of why too
many products can cause you
issues begins with the stratum
corneum. Essentially, it’s the glue
that holds everything together
and the outermost layer of skin,
also known as your skin barrier.

Layering Made of lipids (fats)
such as ceramides, it

products can helps defend against
daily aggressors (UV
rays, infection and

actually reduce pollution, as opposed
effectiveness to that bloke who talks

over you in meetings)
and locks in moisture. ‘When
overusing active ingredients or
constantly changing formulas, your
epidermal barrier function becomes
impaired and too much water
evaporates from the skin, causing
a lowered water content in the
stratum corneum,’ explains Alexis
Face Granite, consultant dermatologist
mask for CeraVe. ‘As the skin dries out,
little cracks appear in the barrier,
which may let in irritants and
germs that can cause dermatitis
and worsen existing skin conditions
[such as acne and rosacea].’ As
per research published in the
Journal Of Clinical And Aesthetic
Dermatology, erosion of the skin
barrier is one of the biggest causes
of skin issues for dermatologists.

If an enthusiastic approach
to actives isn’t leaving your skin
visibly irritated, it could be blunting
their effectiveness due to the
way certain ingredients interact.
It’s ironic, really. While single-
ingredient options such as
hyaluronic acid and niacinamide
were designed to make evidence-
based ingredients more accessible
to the likes of you and me, DIY
skincare layering – using multiple
single-ingredient formulas – can
ultimately reduce effectiveness.
Take vitamin C and AHAs; used
simultaneously, the acids can

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 77

destabilise the pH balance of A good
vitamin C, which makes both concealer
useless and can cause irritation.
Beauty brands are responding Byoma launched this year to boost
Consider, too, the impact these to the vibe shift via streamlined the skin barrier with a line-up of
multistep routines are having on products containing multitasking simple but hard-working formulas.
the environment, and the case for formulas, designed to remove the
stripping them back becomes even need for DIY, single-ingredient What does a scaled-back routine
stronger. ‘Two decades ago, brands layering. The Nue Co’s Barrier look like, then? Step one, Dr
launched product ranges seasonally Culture duo, comprising a single Williams tells me, is to understand
– now it’s weekly,’ explains Millie cleanser and moisturiser, combines your skin’s needs. Get clear on
Kendall, CEO of the British Beauty barrier-building ingredients such as what you want to achieve, be that
Council. Not only is increased squalane to protect the skin from reducing breakouts, minimising the
production creating excess waste pollution and UV rays. Meanwhile, appearance of fine lines or fortifying
– the cosmetics industry produces Revolution Skincare and beauty your skin’s barrier. Then visit a
an estimated 120 billion units of expert Sali Hughes have joined qualified expert if skin concerns
packaging globally every year, forces to create a fuss-free line of such as rosacea, sensitivity and
according to recycling company skincare staples: two cleansers, an acne persist. If you can’t do that,
TerraCycle – it also feeds the belief exfoliant, one antioxidant serum there are now online marketplaces
that more steps, and therefore more and two moisturisers. Similarly, such as Skindays and Match2Me
products, are the solution. As beauty from Trinny London, where you
platform Skoosh Skin reported, 77%
of women in the UK buy up to 100
products a year, but use fewer than
10 items regularly. That equates to
over 5kg of beauty and packaging
waste in a lifetime, and a cost of
over £180,000. I’m as guilty of this
as the next person; it pains me to
think how quickly I’ve abandoned
formulas that weren’t working
when, in reality, I never gave them
the time or space to be effective.

STEP BACK

Here to help us scale back our
bulging routines is the made-
to-order movement. One brand
leading the charge is Skin + Me,
a personalised skincare service
founded on the theme of excess.
‘I experienced the worst skin of
my life in my mid-twenties,’ says
co-founder Rachel Jones. ‘I got
carried away trying every new
skincare brand and product launch,
and added so many steps, tools
and ingredients that it became a
constant process of trial and error,
which caused sensitivity, clogged
pores and breakouts.’ Jones
launched Skin + Me in 2020 to
provide an online consultation that
offers active ingredients specifically
for your skin’s needs; one formula
that dispenses just the right amount
of product every single time.

78 | SEPTEMBER 2022

retinol once a week, building to

a few times a week after several MEET THE
MULTITASKERS
weeks. Want to add another step?
Want products that work
You can, but do so one product at harder than you do the
week before your annual
a time – waiting two to four weeks leave? Look no further

before introducing the next one. To SkinCeuticals C E
Ferulic Vitamin C
fortify the skin barrier, Dr Williams Antioxidant Serum
£145,
also points to hyaluronic acid to lookfantastic.com
This triple-antioxidant
help hydrate your skin and stabilise formula features
vitamin C to protect
the epidermal barrier function against daily
pollution, improve
without causing congestion. fine lines and boost
tired-looking skin. 
Consider any superfluous steps,
CeraVe Facial
too. Do you really need a facial Moisturising
Lotion SPF50
scrub and retinol? Perhaps not. £15,
lookfantastic.com
‘If you’re already using a chemical From brightening
niacinamide to
exfoliant such as a retinoid, there’s barrier-boosting
ceramides and vitamin
usually no need to add a mechanical E, this combines your
moisturiser and
exfoliant such as a scrub,’ confirms sunscreen in one go.

Dr Williams. This could lead to Lixirskin Universal
Emulsion
over-exfoliating your skin and, you £45,
lookfantastic.com
guessed it, an impaired skin barrier. Day cream, night serum
and primer. You can use
Another contentious topic: eye this on your face, neck
and even your hands as
cream. It should be an additional a do-it-all skincare hero
for soft and supple skin.
consideration only if your eye area
U Beauty The Barrier
is a particular concern, confirms Dr Bioactive Treatment
£186, cultbeauty.co.uk
Granite. And as for the toner? Skip Founded on the
idea of simplicity,
it, apparently. ‘Most people really this overnight
treatment does all
don’t need toner unless they have the hard work for
you to help repair
very oily skin,’ Dr Granite says. and strengthen
the all-important
‘Toners can be quite stripping skin barrier while
you slumber.
and if you have chosen a cleanser
SEPTEMBER 2022 | 79
suitable for your skin type,

it shouldn’t be necessary.’

Oh, and if it ain’t broke? Don’t

fix it. If your existing multistep

routine is working for you, by all

means, stick with it. Skin health

looks different for everyone and

what works for one person may

not work for someone else. But if,

like me, your multistep routine is

delivering more grief than glow,

there’s a strong case for stripping it

receive product back. For me, that looks
like a hard-working
‘Most peoplesuggestions based
on your concerns (albeit gentle) cleanser
(CeraVe Hydrating
don’t need tonerandskintype.
unless they have Cleanser, £10), an
Next, start antioxidant serum
a simple but very oily skin’
considered (SkinCeuticals C E
routine – then
Ferulic Antioxidant

stick with it. ‘I’d start with products, Vitamin C Serum, see right) and

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; STOCKSY rather than ingredients,’ adds Dr an SPF and moisturiser (CeraVe

Granite. ‘The essential building Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50,

blocks include a cleanser, see right), with the addition of

moisturiser and sunscreen. Then, retinol (Murad Retinol Youth

in the evening, after cleansing, you Renewal Night Cream, £70)

can apply a retinoid.’ Note that if in the evening. As for that hen

you are introducing the latter, it’s do? I’m afraid you’re on your

important to do so gradually to own there...

avoid irritation. Start by using

06
05

#SKINSHELFIE

01
10

07

02 09
04 03

08

80 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Ada Ooi

She’s the woman celebrities and royalty flock to for a skin reset. Here,
the founder of 001 Skincare London reveals her non-negotiables

AS TOLD TO CHLOE BURCHAM. PHOTOGRAPHY: PIXELEYES. PROPS: DESSERT PLATE, YOY LIVING DESIGN AT WOLFANDBADGER.COM; LARGE PLATE, SMITH & GOAT AT WOLFANDBADGER.COM; FLOWERS COURTESY OF MAHAL KITA FLOWERS A typical day Day 05 Mood-
boosting
I wake up at 8am, feed my 01 ESTEE LAUDER make-up
cats and go to my office REVITALIZING
in Chiswick or my clinic KIEHL’S CUCUMBER SUPREME+ SOFT 08
on Harley Street. Once HERBAL ALCOHOL-FREE EMULSION, £75
I arrive at the office, I hop TONER, £19.50 I discovered this SENSAI 380C
on calls with colleagues This is ultra mild, great product in Singapore MASCARA, £26
THE EXPERT to catch up on product for dry or sensitive airport, and I haven’t The most natural-
Ada Ooi, 41: facialist, development and business skin. I pat on several looked back. It’s looking mascara. It
licensed Chinese performance, review any layers, which leaves very lightweight helps to lengthen and
Medicine practitioner formulation samples from me with that glowing, but still extremely separate the lashes,
and 001 Skincare our lab and write up any translucent look. hydrating without and doesn’t clump or
London founder expert advice and quotes feeling tacky. I pat smudge all day. It
for press. If I’m treating 02 and press it into the keeps lashes feathery
clients in clinic, I fit in a morning skin before applying soft, with no breakage
workout at Amp Fit [a gym in 001 SKINCARE LONDON moisturiser and it when I take it off.
London’s Marylebone] – post- SEBUM & REDNESS helps to plump and Perfect for every day.
lockdown, my focus is on retraining NEUTRALISING firm my skin up.
core strength to realign my posture. SHIELD, £78 09
Client appointments can be back to This cooling gel cream 06
back, but I find some time to review deeply hydrates skin, NARS PURE RADIANT
products sent by brands and shoot balances sebum and FRESH ROSE TINTED MOISTURISER
social content. I love to make calms inflammation. DEEP HYDRATION SPF30, £34
warming food in the evening, like It’s formulated with MOISTURISER, £37 I’ve re-purchased
noodles in soup, congee and steamed mint, rosemary and I was gifted this and this countless times.
fish with rice. On the weekends, I like aloe vera. I use it as instantly fell in love It’s the easiest
to slow-cook broths with ingredients a moisturiser in with it. It gives lasting ‘foundation’ I’ve ever
that are suited to the season and my the day and as an hydration and feels used as it’s hydrating,
constitution. Before I fall asleep at overnight mask. very cocooning, with natural-looking and
11pm, I quietly soothe myself with an addictive scent. I blendable. Most
a sticky rice oolong tea. 03 apply it, then massage days I take a small,
from face to bust. pea-sized amount
Skincare philosophy MURAD ESSENTIAL-C and apply it to the
DAY MOISTURE BROAD Signature centre of the face
‘To treat from within’ is my SPECTRUM SPF30, £65 scent to even out my
mantra. The skin reflects This chemical complexion, but it’s
internal wellbeing; issues such sunscreen is easy to 07 also easily buildable
as dryness, acne and sensitivity are use, with an ultra- for higher coverage.
signals of excess or deficiency within permeable, non-greasy GUERLAIN SHALIMAR
the body’s systems. Adjust your diet texture, and doesn’t EAU DE PARFUM, £59 10
and exercise, and prioritise physical mess up my make-up. I collect vintage
and mental rest above everything. perfume bottles CHANEL BAUME
Night so my favourite ESSENTIEL STICK, £35
Skincare non-negotiable fragrances usually A make-up artist used
04 resonate with the this on me, and I love
Take time to apply products classic oriental how it creates a subtle
and massage them into the 001 SKINCARE LONDON heady, musky and radiance on the skin.
skin, enjoying the process; it ALPHA-PARADISE powdery notes. My It enhances the
feeds the skin and the mind, helping CLEANSING DEW, £42 all-time favourite overall ‘dew’ and feels
to release tension in the face. Containing jasmine, is Shalimar from ultra buttery on the
neroli and ylang ylang, Guerlain, which was skin. I use the shade
Main skincare concern? this is like an exotic the first oriental ‘Transparent’, which
bouquet in a bottle. It perfume in history. has a pearly rose
I’m fortunate to have good cleanses my skin deeply It’s rich in bergamot, colour so it’s versatile
skin, which I believe is down without stripping it [of iris and vanilla notes. as a highlighter, blush
to a combination of family its natural oils]. and lip balm.
genes and diligence in my skincare
routine. I have a fairly round face; I
don’t have wrinkles, but my jaw area
has sagged showing a tiny double chin.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 81

82 | SEPTEMBER 2022

t How often
e should you

really wash
your hair? Are
oils and butters

x essential? The
answers might

tur talkjustsurpriseyou

If you’re used to sporting your natural texture,
a lot of what you’ve learned about taking care of
your curls has probably centred on dreadfully
long wash days and rigid haircare rules that are
specific to your hair type. But what if someone told
you it doesn’t have to be that way – that washing,
detangling and styling your hair needn’t take hours,
nor involve a mini arm workout? And what if you
learned that some of the most common practices
you’ve believed to be rooted in fact are actually
based on fiction? Yes, it’s time to rethink everything.
Because there’s a better, different path. ‘I want
women to know that natural haircare can be simple,’
says Aeleise Ollarvia, curl educator and co-founder
of Black Girl Curls. ‘[It’s] not necessarily easy, but
if you just cleanse, condition and style at regular
intervals with high-quality products and receive
maintenance cuts on schedule, that’s all you need.’
Ahead, a handful of misconceptions – and the habits
to adopt instead for better hair (and scalp) health. 

1 2

Myth Myth

Your routine is Oils will moisturise
dictated by your your hair
curl pattern
~
~
Raw oils – such as coconut and olive
There’s no such thing as a product that – are thought to be great hair and scalp
works best for a specific curl pattern or moisturisers, but they may just cause
hair type. For the uninitiated, hair types more problems. ‘I don’t recommend
are broken into four groups, which heavy products for the scalp as they can
describe the texture of the hair, from weigh down the hair and cause product
straight to coily. Each group is divided build-up,’ says dermatologist Jeanine
into three categories – A, B and C Downie. The moisture your hair needs
– which describe the shape of your comes from water. ‘This means proper
strands. But ‘those letters shouldn’t cleansing to remove build-up, sebum
limit how we approach haircare’, says and environmental debris so the hair
hairstylist Anita Wilson. Simply put, can absorb water,’ says Ollarvia. Your
hair is hair, and it’s not necessary to conditioner (when used regularly)
purchase products marketed solely should do a lot of this work for you.
for curls when styling and treating Can’t quit those oils? Instead of the
your textured strands.  raw stuff, use a product with oil in it. 

84 | SEPTEMBER 2022

3
Myth
FYI
FYI Protective
styles will
Hair worn give you
in protective stronger,
styles should longer hair

be washed ~
weekly or
fortnightly Unless you have a
condition, such as
alopecia, that prevents
hair growth, your hair
will grow on its own –
the way you wear it
won’t change that.
Additionally, protective
styles such as braids
and weaves aren’t
always as protective
as the name implies,
and wearing them too
often or for too long
can harm the hair. ‘The
longer you keep curls
extended outside of
their natural curl, the
more potential for
damage,’ Wilson says.
‘That impacts your curl
pattern and prevents
you from getting
regular definition.’
Wilson recommends
you wear ‘alternative
styles’ for no longer
than four to six weeks.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 85

4 5 7
Myth
Myth Myth
Kitchen
Topical products can You should shampoo ingredients
make your hair grow once or twice a month can nourish

~ ~ hair

 Again, despite the thousands of For Wilson, not washing your hair ~
products out there that claim to regularly is almost like not brushing
stimulate hair growth, the truth is your teeth or washing your face every Ever made a DIY hair
that hair grows on its own because day. How often you shampoo depends mask using things like
it’s, well, hair. ‘Hair growth is genetic,’ on your lifestyle – if you exercise avocados and bananas?
Ollarvia says. ‘Nothing applied to regularly, you should probably wash
the scalp or taken orally [such as a your hair more often – but a general Know that putting
supplement] can speed up growth or rule of thumb is that you should produce on your hair
allow you to grow two inches of hair shampoo and saturate hair with isn’t doing what you
in a few weeks.’ In fact, the average water at least every seven to 10 days. think. ‘Hairs do not
rate of hair growth is half an inch per ‘If you wash your hair less frequently have a digestive system,’
month. However, it’s worth noting than once a week, you may have Ollarvia says. ‘They
that while these products might breakage, shedding, seborrhoeic cannot break down and
not be able to make your hair grow dermatitis – which is an angry case process the fats, proteins,
more speedily, some of them can of dandruff – or psoriasis flare-ups minerals and vitamins
play a big role in the overall health in the scalp,’ says Dr Downie. That’s in food to make them
of your hair – a very good thing.  why routinely cleansing your hair is beneficial for your scalp
the best way to avoid scalp conditions.  and hair.’ Even when you
throw them in a blender,
6Myth the molecules aren’t
Cleansing
conditioners can small enough to
replace shampoo permeate. You’re better
~ off using a conditioning
Because some shampoos can be product featuring those
drying, cleansing conditioners (or
‘co-washes’) are common alternatives same ingredients
that people turn to when they want processed in a way that
to wash their hair without stripping
it. But these shouldn’t be used to makes them useful. 
replace your shampoo entirely.
‘Imagine cleansing your body with Rock a
lotion,’ Wilson says. ‘No one would protective
stand for that, but for some reason style once or
we accept it in terms of our hair.’ twice a year
While co-washing won’t cleanse your (don’t go
hair and scalp, you can do it between overboard)
weekly washes if you’re looking to
extend your style for a few more
days. And if you think your shampoo
is drying out your hair, consider
switching to a less harsh formula.

86 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Curl Cantu Detangle
power Sturdy Wash Day

A stress-free wash day (and beyond) Brush, £8, and
awaits with these go-to picks Sturdy Detangle

Camille Rose Curl Comb, £4
Love Moisture Milk, Longer bristles and
£11.99 an easy-grip handle
Featuring a delicious on the brush make
line-up of ingredients, detangling less of a
with macadamia,
organic avocado and chore, and expect
green tea front and the comb to glide
centre, this formula through notoriously
feeds hair with
hydration. Use it knotty curls.
on wash day as
a conditioning JVN Haircare
cream or refresh Complete Pre-Wash
curls in between
to leave dry ends Scalp Oil, £24
looking revived. The hero ingredient in
this oil, hemisqualane,
WORDS: DANIELLE JACKSON. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; STOCKSY; STUDIO 33 Bouclème Protein Windle Lab Curl mimics the moisture-
Booster, £26 Enhancer, £13.50
Like a protein Whether you want rich squalene found
shake for your ends, to control a halo naturally in the skin,
this helps improve of flyaways, define ridding your scalp of
shine, texture and your curls or protect dryness or flakiness
hydration levels by them against
strengthening the humidity, this 100% and reducing hair
protein structures vegan formula breakage over time.
of the hair shaft. enhances the look
Suitable for all of curls, coils and Living Proof
curl types, add waves while adding Curl Shampoo, £31
a few drops to serious shine. Apply This shampoo’s claim
your shampoo a pea-size amount
or conditioner to and distribute evenly to fame is making
supercharge your from roots to ends. curls stronger after
haircare routine.
just one wash,
thanks to a blend

of biopolymer
film-formers

and moisturising
ingredients, while
conditioning agents
work together to
eliminate frizz.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 87

Th osf xotlhivrss

With the exception of the odd loose-lipped conversation with
friends, the frequency, pleasure and logistics that represent our
intimate lives remains behind closed doors. But there’s more to be
gained from opening up than satisfying our collective curiosity.
From enjoying a pleasurable sex life with a chronic pain condition to
trying to conceive, five women share the most intimate details of
the most personal part of their lives in the name of transparency

As told to Paisley Gilmour

‘Since taking HRT, I’ve been
masturbating more than ever’

Rebecca, 46, a wellbeing porn site and reach for my I’d visit a fetish or sex club –
coach, hypnotherapist Doxy wand massager. something I’ve always wanted
and author from to do. Today, I made good on
Nottingham, has a When my perimenopausal that promise. I’m in London
four-year-old daughter symptoms first started, I didn’t and on my way to Klub Verboten
and has been single for have an ounce of energy and I felt – an LGBTQ+ fetish club. I’m not
six years. A year ago, so negative. As for my approach interested in one-night stands
she started experiencing to pleasure, the idea of having these days; I want a connection
perimenopause symptoms, more than one orgasm seemed with someone. So I love the
including migraines, hot like too much effort. But after idea of dressing up (or down –
flushes and extreme hearing Davina McCall talking as there’s a strict dress code, I’m
tiredness. She has about hormone replacement topless apart from nipple pasties),
recently started therapy, I decided to give it a go. meeting like-minded people and
hormone replacement Everything changed almost then having sex if it feels right.
therapy (HRT). overnight. I got my focus back and,
with it, my desire. In fact, since As soon as I enter, I’m greeted
Week 1: Wednesday, 3pm I started taking HRT six months by a wall of smoke and very loud
ago, I’ve been masturbating more techno – not exactly the plush
This morning, I’m called upon than ever. But I’ve also found experience I’d imagined, but I try
to give my expertise on sex and myself staying in a state of high to make the most of it. Before long,
intimacy to the media, which arousal for longer, which makes I get chatting to a lovely couple from
I really enjoy doing. I often write for long, pleasurable solo sessions. Sheffield who seem interested in
about sex toys for work, too. Today, Today, soon after finishing, I decide me. But my boots are killing me
as soon as my mind goes there, to go again before I have to go and there’s nowhere to sit down.
I head to my bedroom – which back to work. I don’t know what By 2am, I’m knackered and I
is a real perk of working from the menopause is going to bring, decide to head back to my hotel.
home and being my own boss. but for the moment, I’m just
Then, I take out my laptop, start focusing on the here and now. It turns out that this club night
to load up my go-to lesbian wasn’t quite right for me, but I’m
Week 2: Saturday, 12am still excited to explore this part
of my sexuality. I set my sights
During the lockdowns, I promised on [the sex club] Killing Kittens
myself that when it was all over, for my next attempt.

90 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Divya*, 29, a PR consultant we shouldn’t have sex just for The sex diaries
from London, has been conception, so we’ve agreed
married to Max* for five to prioritise our pleasure to but we’re lucky that missionary
years. They started trying stop it feeling transactional. always makes us both orgasm.
to get pregnant three This has taken the pressure It’s quick, satisfying and we still
months ago and are using off ‘conception sex’ for us, manage to get an early night.
a fertility app to track and now we’re having more
when Divya is ovulating sex than ever – about three Week 1: Friday, 11pm
to help them conceive. timesa week, even on days
when I’m not ovulating. One of the things I love most
Week 1: Thursday, 9pm about our relationship is that
As it’s a weeknight, we’re we both really value the intimacy
As I’m in my fertile window, we’d both feeling knackered. We we get from things other than
already planned to have sex always start with foreplay, but intercourse, such as spending
tonight. But Max is adamant that tonight Max is especially slow quality time together. So even
and soft. We’ve never been that though we happen to be having
experimental with positions, a lot of sex right now, we still
make sure to schedule regular
‘We won’t date nights, too.
let trying
to conceive Tonight, we have dinner at
dampen a fancy new restaurant. We’re
our desire’ not big drinkers anyway, but
I’m off alcohol since we’re trying
to get pregnant. Before we
started trying, sex after a big
boozy meal always felt like an
effort. But the portion sizes are
small and we’re sober, so Max
and I are both feeling up for sex
when we get home.

We get into bed, undress and
take it in turns to give each
other oral sex; it takes a lot of
communication (and laughter)
to make sure he doesn’t orgasm
while I’m down there. We end
up in missionary again, and
afterwards we lie in bed, imagining
how different our lives might
look a year from now. It’s a
daunting feeling, but it makes
the sex feel all the more special.

Week 1: Saturday, 11am

We’ve always loved morning sex,
but weekends are our only real
opportunity to do it these days.
We don’t have plans today, so
Max takes his time going down
on me. I love not feeling rushed,
and eventually I’m so turned on
that I climb on top of him and
move gently until I bring myself
to orgasm. As I get my breath
back, he moves behind me until
he’s finished and we collapse
together on the bed.

A lot of my friends are trying
to conceive, too, and when we
talk about it, they all say the
same thing: the fun and romance
of sex has evaporated. It’s so
important to us that this doesn’t
happen, but we’re only at the
start of this journey. Who knows
how we might feel if we’re still
trying this time next year…

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 91

The sex diaries

Grace*, 32, a freelancer is fine and totally normal for me
from the Midlands, during a quick session. Afterwards,
works from home full we cuddle for a few minutes before
time – as does her I reluctantly disentangle and get
partner of seven years, ready for my next Zoom meeting.
Alex*. Amy and Alex
live together and are The first few times we had
consensually non- midday sex, I felt really guilty for
monogamous. While taking time off work. But I soon
Alex has always realised that instead of my work
worked from home, suffering, it was actually improving
Amy only began from the break that sex provided.
after finding herself
unemployed during Week 1: Thursday, 9pm
the pandemic.
Alex is working late in his office, so
Week 1: Monday, 10pm I spend the evening sexting my
play partner – what I call the other
Alex and I have different sleeping person I’m sleeping with at the
rhythms (he’s a night owl, I’m moment. They live a couple of
shattered by 10pm) so working hours away, so I only get to see them
from home has given us a greater a few times a year, but we chat most
window of opportunity where we’re days. We exchange progressively
both awake and alert enough for raunchy messages about what we’d
sex. Tonight, though, I just want like to do next time we meet up.
some alone time and an early night. It’s part negotiation, exploring our
I’m not exactly horny because it’s boundaries and limits, and part
been a stressful day, but I know foreplay. We play dominant/
a quick orgasm will help me sleep. submissive games together, so I ask
I get into bed and reach for my permission to touch myself and to
clitoral vibrator (the Exposed orgasm. It’s hot, fun and a great
Nocturnal Bullet) and pull up way to connect when we don’t see
Literotica — a site for sex stories each other as often as we’d like.
and erotic audio — on my phone.
This is what I call my ‘self-care Week 1: Friday, 2pm
wank’. I orgasm quickly and
I’m asleep within minutes. I find myself distracted with
raunchy thoughts during the
Week 1: Tuesday, 12pm working day. I push them aside
for long enough to finish a few
While we’re working, Alex texts me tasks and then decide to take
from the next room asking if I want a few minutes out to masturbate.
to have sex. I immediately strip off I scroll back through some
and join him in bed. sexy texts for ‘inspiration’ and
lock my office door.
During lockdown, we had loads of
spontaneous sex, but bereavements Week 1: Saturday, 10am
and a bout of Covid forced these
sessions to take a back seat. It’s only Alex and I sleep in late and both
now, all these months on, that we’re want lazy morning sex when we
starting to feel like ourselves again. wake up. We have penetrative
sex until he gets off, and then he
I go down on him for a few goes down on me until I orgasm.
minutes and then we switch to Though I enjoy the mid-week
vaginal sex. I don’t orgasm, which quickies, I still prefer these longer
sex sessions where work doesn’t
get in the way and we can really
take our time with each other.

92 | SEPTEMBER 2022

‘I’m a lark, he’s a night owl
– but working from home
means we can have sex

during the day’

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 93

The sex diaries do it for months; even lying on my and grab my vibrator for a hit
back was painful, let alone twisting of pleasure. Before I was able to
Sonia*, 32, a housing my body into a crouching position. manage my pain, I was constantly
officer from Norfolk, has This was as hard emotionally as it exhausted – both emotionally
been with her partner was physically; I felt let-down and and physically. But the exhaustion
Claire* for five years. betrayed by my body. left me feeling angry, too – and I
They got engaged in took it out on those closest to me.
2019 and plan to marry I’ve lost count of the number of Masturbation that leads to orgasm
next year. Sonia has times I’ve sat in a physio or doctor’s has really helped me manage the
arthritis in the base of office and cried about it. But we’ve pain; it relaxes me both physically
her spine and nerve learned there are other ways for in my body and emotionally, too.
damage that causes her me to make her feel good (let’s just
severe pain. The pain has say that I’ve become very good with Week 2: Sunday, 7pm
become manageable, but my hands…) Plus, I can now mostly
when it flares up, she can predict when I’ll have an attack. I realise that Claire and I haven’t
find it difficult to walk, sit, Being off work – like I am this week had sex since our week off, but
stand up and climb stairs. – means I’m much more relaxed I’m not worried. Sure, we don’t
and in less pain. do it as much as we did when we
Week 1: Monday, 2pm first met, but I’m happier and
After Claire orgasms, she suggests more in love now. We don’t put
Claire and I have the week off work. using a toy on me. It feels like a bit any pressure on each other and we
We’re hanging out when Claire of a faff, especially when I love how understand that if a month goes
suggests we go into the bedroom. it feels when she uses her hands. by without sex, it doesn’t mean
Afternoon sex followed by a nap is So I ask her to do that instead. I’m anything. Every day, we kiss, hold
one of our favourite things to do, so glad I did – we both finish satisfied, hands, cuddle or do something nice
I know exactly what her intentions and promptly fall asleep. for each other. That connection,
are. We start kissing and touching that contact – that’s what intimacy
each other, and then I go down on Week 2: Saturday, 9am is about for us; there’s so much
her. I love giving her oral. I couldn’t more to our physical relationship
Claire gets up early for work, but than just sex.
it’s my day off. After she leaves,
I make the most of my lie-in

‘I felt like
my body
betrayed me –
thoetnheIr lweaarynsed
to pleasure
my partner’

94 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Becky, 36, a former ‘Sex is better with
teacher from Sheffield, someone who knows
was told she was
HIV-positive in 2015. my HIV status’
The diagnosis came
PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY; UNSPLASH; JOAO MARQUES; AARON DURALL.*NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED while she was dating now is a good time to tell him I’m saying he’s going to bring some
someone new, just HIV-positive. I direct him to my sex toys. He arrives with a
a few months after Instagram where I talk publicly wheely suitcase in tow. ‘I didn’t
divorcing her partner about my HIV status, and say, know what to bring, so I just
of 10 years. Since the ‘Have a look at that. Message me bought… everything,’ he laughs.
diagnosis, Becky has if you have questions, and if you’re He doesn’t leave until 3am.
become an activist and still interested.’
a full-time HIV service As I’m nodding off, I start
coordinator. She is a His reply is basically the text thinking about how sex is usually
single mum to her version of a shrug. He isn’t remotely better when I’m with people
eight-year-old daughter. bothered and still wants to see me. who already know about my HIV
I’m shocked. It’s very rare that status. Whether that’s because
Week 1: Saturday, 4pm someone actually knows about HIV I tend to like those people more
and the U=U message. It makes me as we’re already practising open
My daughter is at her dad’s, so I happy that the work I do is not in communication, or just because
arrange a hook-up with a guy I’ve vain. We set a date for next Friday. it’s freeing not to be subconsciously
been chatting to via an app called holding something back while
Fab Swingers. When he arrives, we Week 3: Friday, 7pm I’m in the moment, I don’t know.
don’t waste much time getting to Either way, I know it’s definitely
know each other. After a glass of David’s coming over tonight and become ‘A Thing’.
wine, we move into my bedroom before he sets off, he texts me
and take off our clothes.

Like with most people I meet on
the site, I don’t tell him about my
HIV status because I already know
it’s only going to be a one-time
thing. I’m taking medication and my
viral load is so low it’s undetectable,
meaning the virus can’t be passed
on even if I have unprotected sex.
This is known as ‘U=U’, which
means undetectable equals
untransmittable. Still, as it’s my
first time having sex with him,
I ask him to use a condom to reduce
the risk of getting other STIs.

I enjoy hook-ups and find it quite
easy to pleasure a man, so after a bit,
this one feels pretty formulaic. We
take turns giving oral before we
have penetrative sex. The sexual
experience is average, but he’s good
company. Before he gets too
comfortable, I ask him to leave –
I prefer having my bed to myself.

Week 2: Saturday, 11pm

My daughter’s here this weekend
and I have plans with friends, so
there will be no gentleman callers
for me. But when I get home from
the pub, I feel a wave of desire. I text
David*, a guy I’ve had sex with a few
times since we met on OkCupid. He’s
kinky and bisexual – 100% my type.

We stay up late texting and plan
to hang out next weekend. I decide

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 95

Don’t forget to
make a wish

96 | SEPTEMBER 2022

Female health:
is there anything

to celebrate?

This month marks the 100th issue of Women’s Health. But while the
experience of existing in a female body has gone from hushed up to headline
news in the 10 years this magazine has been on the newsstands, are women

any better off? From heavy periods to HRT, Roisín Dervish-O’Kane
reflects back on a pivotal decade

ast your mind back, our illness and wellness, we’ve ago, she was a reproductive health
if you will, to 2012. rooted through the archives and practitioner, who used tools such
Perhaps you were recruited some of the key figures in as acupuncture, massage and
posting a picture female health to ask: what’s shifted reflexology alongside her work
of your Starbucks for the better? Has anything got as a birth doula. ‘My work was all
‘skinny’ Frappuccino to your 12 worse? And what lessons can we about hormones, menstrual cycles,
followers on this new app called learn from the past decade to help fertility, pregnancy and birth,’ she
Instagram. Or maybe you were women live happier and healthier recalls, adding that clients were
sporting Primark leggings and lives in the next? typically coming to her as a ‘last-
an ex’s hoodie to slog it out on ditch attempt’. In the decade since,
the cross trainer at your local Open season she has authored two bestselling
LA Fitness. If you were, there’s books – 2018’s Period Power and
a strong chance you were doing ‘I have women coming to me in their 2021’s Perimenopause Power (both
it in an attempt to ‘burn off’ that forties and fifties who’ve been living £14.99, Bloomsbury Green Tree);
lower-abdominal bloat that with debilitating heavy periods for amassed over 58,000 social media
lingered for 10 days every month. years, and now they’re finally seeking followers; and founded waitlisted
Oh, and we suspect you’d rather help,’ says GP Adwoa Danso-Boamah membership platform The Flow
have double-dosed on Feminax (@theclinicdiaries) from her east Collective, where she helps women
than actually talk about your London consulting room. A decade of all ages and stages work with their
crippling period pain. ago, she was a junior doctor and, the cycles. She sees the direction of travel
It was into this era that Women’s way she sees it, a major win from like Dr Danso-Boamah. ‘Women
Health magazine first landed on then to now has been an increase in are realising that they don’t have to
newsstands and doormats up and assertiveness among women when “put up” with these issues any more;
down the country. And while much it comes to addressing their health there are treatment strategies that
has changed during the decade issues. ‘Many of my friends are taking can help, which means clients are
we’ve been decorating coffee tables, ownership of their health and are able coming to me far earlier on [in their
bedside tables and gym receptions, to advocate for themselves, thanks journey],’ she shares. ‘The power of
much more… hasn’t. From the to positive educational material on the menstrual cycle to affect your
research published about the way social media. It’s been life-changing.’ mood, energy and behaviour – and
our bodies operate, to the services therefore everything in your life,
we engage with to stay healthy and Maisie Hill, bestselling author, personally and professionally – is
the way in which we converse about women’s health practitioner and increasingly being accepted in a way
coach has seen a similar trajectory
among her own clients. A decade

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 97

What women want

that doesn’t hold women back, but

empowers them. And that’s huge.’

The pushback against the shame

and silence that’s long surrounded

menstrual cycles initially came, as

you might expect, from younger

women – be that by ‘free bleeding’

on to their trousers or successfully

campaigning to stop women and girls

paying VAT on sanitary products, in

the case of activist Amika George,

then 17. But as the decade moved on,

older cohorts of women experienced

their own ‘nope!’ moment. If one

image captures just how far the

no-longer-putting-up-or-shutting-up

sentiment has come, it’s a woman in
her early fifties standing outside the 1

Houses of Parliament in a ‘#Make Test and invest
Menopause Matter’ T-shirt with a

megaphone in her hand. The woman The ‘Davina effect’ (coined after

is Davina McCall; the mission is the success of her Channel 4

to reduce the prohibitive charge documentary Sex, Myths And The

of paying for multiple hormone Menopause) has no doubt played

replacement therapy (HRT) a role in this shift. So, too, has the

prescriptions by making it available doctors-becoming-influencers

via one annual cost, which is part trend and the specific brand of

of a private member’s bill brought candour that millennials brought

by Carolyn Harris, Labour MP with them into their professional,

for Swansea East. personal and digital circles as they

While Harris emphasises her came of age. But solving women’s 2

frustrations about the ‘success’ of problems has become big business. too grand a reach. ‘Women’s health
has typically been seen as the poor
the legislation (how elements of the Every unspoken ailment – from sibling when it comes to attracting
funding [from the government],’
bill have been chiselled away; the a weak pelvic floor to menstrual says consultant gynaecologist
Christine Ekechi. ‘It isn’t necessarily
fact that it’s going to be over a year cramps – has been identified as a a medical issue, but a societal one;
it’s about how much importance
until the changes will take effect; fertile gap in the market. And now, leaders attach to issues that solely
affect women.’ A report compiled
the ‘entirely preventable’ HRT technological solutions to meet in 2014 by the UK Clinical Research
Collaboration noted that less than
supply crisis unfolding right now), those needs have bloomed into a 2.5% of publicly funded research
was dedicated solely to reproductive
she agrees that the past 18 months sector so lucrative that it’s got its health, despite one in three women
suffering from a reproductive or
have been a major The UK has own portmanteau. gynaecological health problem
cultural turning Investment in during their life. And the situation
has only marginally improved,
point. ‘Women – the largest ‘femtech’ increased exacerbated by the pandemic.
especially older gender health sevenfold in the
women who are gap in the G20 five years between But this isn’t just a research issue.
working, running 2013 and 2018; The UK has the largest gender health
gap in the G20 (the world’s most
busy households, at last count, the
2013
trying to keep all the spinning market was valued at £4.3 billion, Leading femtech brand
Elvie is launched by Tania
plates in the air – are notoriously and is expected to reach £10.9 billion Boler to ‘bring women’s
tech out of the dark ages’.
bad at self-diagnosing and [good at] by 2030. Pleasingly, 92% of femtech

minimising health concerns,’ she start-ups are headed by women.

tells WH. ‘I’m 61 and in my own Yet, might the past decade being

group of friends, we never spoke a boom time for female-oriented

about the menopause. One had a biotech indicate something about

bad back, another had creaky joints how adequately health services are

and I struggled with my mental meeting women’s needs? It’s not

health to the extent that I’d been on

a high dose of antidepressants for

over a decade. But we just thought Major 2012
these were individual issues that moments Women’s Health comes
were part and parcel of getting
older. Until two years ago, most Key developments in to the UK – the most
women didn’t have the awareness
women’s health over successful women’s

the past decade mag launch in a decade.

to connect the dots.’

98 | SEPTEMBER 2022

3 ‘This isn’t just a maternity issue;
such inequalities exist throughout
developed economies) and the 12th life expectancy at birth in the most 1. women’s lives,’ notes Dr Ekechi,
largest globally. By several metrics, deprived areas was 19.3 years less Black women who is co-chair of the Royal College
things have become worse in this than in the least deprived areas are four times of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists’
decade. Much was made earlier between 2018 and 2020. Black more likely to Race Equality Taskforce. ‘Black
this year of a BMJ study revealing women’s experiences of the health die in childbirth women often mention they don’t
that gynaecology waiting lists were service had overdue attention after than white feel they’re treated as individuals
greater than any other area of 2020’s racial reckoning. Notably the women in their interactions with the health
medicine after the pandemic, with spotlighting of the statistic that Black service.’ Dr Danso-Boamah agrees,
more than 570,000 women left women are four times more likely to 2. ‘There is institutional racism within
waiting for procedures. But the die in pregnancy or labour, and twice Menopausal the NHS and people from ethnic
pandemic’s pressures didn’t create as likely as white women to have a women take minority backgrounds have been
a new problem, they intensified an severe pregnancy complication. back control failed by the health system. This
existing one; gynaecology waiting isn’t new; it’s just only recently
lists had outstripped those for Research published by Five X 3. garnered mainstream attention.’
other specialities since April 2018. More – a grassroots organisation Davina McCall
committed to highlighting and (right) fights to Future-proof
Mend the gap changing Black women’s maternal cut HRT costs
health outcomes in the UK – adds It all adds up to a scenario in which
Not that the chronic ‘deprioritisation’ further detail to an already bleak 4. the word ‘progress’ in the context
of women’s health affects us equally. picture: 43% of women surveyed Covid vaccine of female health feels premature.
‘The gap between the haves and have reported feeling discriminated trials excluded Women of all ages are increasingly
nots has widened in the past 10 years,’ against during their maternity care; those pregnant hormonally literate; better able to
says Dame Lesley Regan, consultant that same percentage reported not advocate for themselves, too. But it’s
gynaecologist at Imperial College, having pain relief options explained 5. a shift born of necessity. Though the
who spoke to WH before she was to them. The report contains galling Maria Caulfield biotech sector represents a solution
appointed as the government’s first anecdotes of Black women being MP, Minister for to issues many women assumed
Women’s Health Ambassador. It’s denied epidurals, which stacks with Women’s Health they had to put up with, it’s only a
a point hammered home by Office previous research showing Black solution for those who can afford
for National Statistics (ONS) data in women are routinely denied pain the products; this could lead to an
April that revealed female healthy relief compared with white women. even greater disparity in the health
outcomes between the most and
least wealthy. And in the context of
a cost-of-living crisis, it’s a troubling
trend. So, where do we go from here?

No one is hiding from the fact
that women’s healthcare has failed
those it’s meant to serve. Maria
Caulfield MP, in the freshly minted
role as Minister for Women’s Health,
recognises this in communications
that tease the government’s coming
Women’s Health Strategy (not yet
published at the time of writing).
But it remains to be seen if the
‘ambitious’ change signalled by
the language may not be reflected
in the size and scope of reform. By
Professor Regan’s measure, to mend
the crisis in women’s health over the
next decade requires a system-wide
restructure. ‘The majority of women
accessing [the NHS] aren’t ill, they’re
in fact trying to access maintenance
services to help them stay healthy,’

2015 2016 2017 2018
European health approval The term ‘femtech’ Pelvic mesh implants NHS research shows that the
bodies are filmed saying mesh is coined by Ida Tin, are found to have proportion of NHS doctors
fruit packaging would be co-founder of Clue, injured thousands who are women has grown
approved for use in surgeries. a period tracker app. of women. every year since 2009.

SEPTEMBER 2022 | 99

What women want

overturning of Roe v Wade – the

landmark ruling that legalised

abortion at a country-wide level

in the US – doesn’t directly affect

the reproductive rights of women

in the UK, ‘it’s vital that people who

believe in a woman’s right to choose

– as I do – try to keep advocating for

it. Safe, legal abortion is essential

women’s healthcare; no rights are

guaranteed’, she says. Whatever

element of female health matters

most to you, remember you can

keep it on the parliamentary agenda

by lobbying your MP – and vote

with your health in mind.

Advocacy can be on an individual
4 level, too – the first step is checking

your body and understanding your

Covid vaccine trials to “protect” normal, so you can spot any warning

the foetus is another more recent signs and raise them with your GP.

example,’ she adds. What followed If you struggle to assert yourself in

was vaccine hesitancy and the a clinical setting, there are online

hospitalisation of pregnant women communities to assist you. Finally?

who caught Covid, leading to poor Know that you can build on the

outcomes for them and their babies. standout success of the past decade

‘We need to move away from the – smashing stigma and shame around

top-down paternalistic approach the messier aspects of our biology

that’s dominated medicine – and – by talking. Keep normalising; keep

see each patient as an individual,’ calling body parts by their actual

5 she says, caveating that any name; keep sharing what’s helped

she explains. She would like to see warm-worded ambition for change you (but appreciate an alternative
women’s health hubs where you can
go for everything from a smear to an will be rendered null and void if it’s strategy may better suit others).
HRT prescription, with the caveat
that this will require a mindset shift not met with adequate funding. ‘If While millions of women will
from those who control the purse
strings. ‘But there’s evidence that you’re expected to deliver benefit from her fight
wrapping services around women’s
needs will be much more cost- high-quality care with ‘We must move to help them access PHOTOGRAPHY: ROWAN FEE; GETTY IMAGES; STOCKSY; TED S WARREN/AP/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
effective,’ she adds. fewer resources to more away from the affordable HRT, it’s
patients, the first thing this last piece of the
For Dr Ekechi, the most important that’ll go is your empathy paternalistic puzzle that really made
learning from the past decade to and listening skills; you approach to the difference for MP
improve women’s health outcomes
is to really listen to women. She cites just don’t have the time.’ medicine’ CarolynHarris.‘Outside
the 2017 pelvic mesh scandal as a And that’s where women’s parliament last October,
clear example where one treatment
option was recommended to patients voices go unheard – and Davina asked how I was
(only for investigations to reveal
failures of quality compliance in health needs go unmet. finding HRT. I told her I wasn’t on
medical device manufacturers)
without other alternatives being Be the change it and, knowing my symptoms, she
presented. ‘The early decision asked, “Why on earth aren’t you on
to exclude pregnant women from
Just as lawmakers and clinicians it?”’ she recalls. Harris made a GP

have their place in helping women appointment and, not even a year on,

to maintain their health, so do we. she’s significantly reduced her daily

‘It’s important to appreciate that antidepressant dose. ‘I want us to

things don’t simply improve with get to a place where women’s health

time,’ says Professor Regan, adding is prioritised to the extent we’re not

that it’s vital for women to remember finding solutions through chats and

this in the context of reproductive chance encounters,’ she shares. ‘Until

healthcare rights. And while the then, it’s vital to keep talking.’

2019 2021 2022
The MBRRACE report finds The government agrees to reduce Gynaecology has the worst
that Black women are five the cost of HRT prescriptions and waiting lists in the UK, while
times more likely to die in launch a women’s health strategy the US supreme court votes
childbirth than white women. with Carolyn Harris MP as co-chair. to overturn Roe v Wade.

100 | SEPTEMBER 2022