2022-06-01 delicious

JUNE 2022 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

WORLD OF + Maple syrup
FLAVOUR pecans

+ RECIPES FROM
MALAYSIA, GREECE,

SYRIA & MORE

+ GLOBAL STREET FOOD

+ SIX WAYS WITH
SAUSAGES

+ CIDER-GLAZED
FRENCH APPLE GALETTE

+ TRAVEL TO PERU, BOSTON
& BIRMINGHAM

CARAMEL
SPONGE
PUDDING AKA:

SOUTH AFRICAN MALVA DESSERT

YOTAM NORNIE BERO JOSÉ
OTTOLENGHI PIZARRO
Macadamia-crusted
Hot chips with tahini rack of lamb Spanish menu





JUNE CONTENTS

120

CONTENTS.

52 REGULARS

6 Ed’s Letter
10 Talk to Us
12 Menus
23 Insider: News
28 Eat Out

Sydney’s new Catalonian must-visit
and Melbourne’s hottest steakhouse.
30 delicious. Drinks Club
Pairing Qantas Wines with recipes.
32 Drinks
Our critic and comic get imaginative
with an Israeli pudding.
34 Nornie Bero
For the love of lamb.
36 Yotam Ottolenghi
The superstar chef’s take on that
global comfort food, hot chips.
38 Cheese Counter
The Studd siblings get baking with
an iconic Dutch cheese.
40 Subscribe to delicious.
42 Meat Market
A French stew with an Irish soul.
44 I’m Loving
Matt Preston’s culinary wanders.
144 Insider: Travel

SAVOUR 100 Extract FOLLOW US...
Chef John Chantarasak taps into his
15 In Season Thai heritage in his tasty new book. @deliciousAUS
Chef Anna Mortimer brings the
essence of Paris to coastal NSW. 108 Guest Chef delicious.com.au
The Syrian chef treating Melbourne
50 Malaysia to the flavours of her homeland. For more delicious. content.
Coconut, chilli and spices offer an
intoxicating taste of the Asian nation. 116 Wicked ON THE COVER
We’ve scoured the globe to bring
58 Sausages you a perfect pastry collection. Caramel sponge pudding
Irresistible recipes from far and wide (South African Malva dessert
for very clever sausages. 124 Extract
Baking buff Chetna Makan shares – recipe p 99)
66 Greece sweet creations with an Indian twist. Recipe Warren Mendes
Journey to the Greek Islands with Photography Chris Court
a menu by Helena Moursellas. TRAVEL Styling David Morgan

74 On Trend 130 Global Flavours OFFICIAL DELICIOUS.
Snack your way around the world From coast to ancient capital in Peru. TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
with international street food classics.
136 City Guide Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat
82 Entertaining Why it’s all coming up Brummie. (vicsmeat.com.au).
Take a trip to regional Spain in the
pages of José Pizarro’s new book. 146 Postcard
Beat a historic path through Boston.
90 Warren Mendes
The South African-born chef returns 154 Passport
from his latest trip full of lekker ideas. A chef’s guide to Waiheke Island.

delicious.com.au 5

6

WELCOME

Freestanding Refrigerators

8

DON’T MISS A month of exclusive offers,
events and experiences
THE MOST across four cities
DELICIOUS
MONTH!

MAY 1–31 2022

SYDNEY | MELBOURNE
BRISBANE | ADELAIDE

INBOX.

TO US

OUR MOST-LIKED POST MEMORIES MADE: My husband and I have a dear,

2,517 likes, 51 comments young friend who is a war veteran. He has completed numerous
deployments, including Iraq. Anzac Day is very important to him
Get your comfort food #MAKEITDELICIOUS and he is passionate about attending the dawn service and catching
on tonight with our up with his fellow veterans. He mentioned to us some time ago how
spiced potato, sage and leek important Anzac Eve was when he was on base. When I saw the
soup with potato crisps. Double Choc Mousse Cake in the November 2021 issue, I decided
Loaded with rich parmesan, I would set myself the task of baking it for him, his wife, myself and
leeks and sage, and topped my husband this Anzac Eve. I’m not a baker and, living in the
with extra crispy fried potato, country, I also faced the challenge of finding the mix. I had success
this luxuriously creamy soup eventually and despite the appearance being far from the photo in
is guaranteed to bowl you the magazine, it was a huge hit and was totally decadent. Thank you
over. Find the recipe at for the inspiration and joy this gave us all on April 24th, 2022.
delicious.com.au Annette Richardson
Recipe: @helena_marieee
Photography: MAKE THE COVER
@william_meppem
Styling: @kirstenljenkins Looking for cool-weather comfort?
Our cover star has you covered – this
INSPIRED EATING: Here I sit, sipping on a lemon drop sticky, saucy South African pudding
(p 99) is made for winter feasting. Our
martini (The Comic’s wildcard drink, April issue, p 38), with some tip: make a double batch of maple
cabbage slaw with hazelnuts, currants and buttermilk dressing pecans for sweet snacks! Show us
(inspired by the menu highlights from Fish Butchery, Waterloo, in your take by tagging @deliciousaus
Joanna Savill’s report on the new place in The Serve, p 37), and #makeitdelicious.
to have alongside a whole fish barbecued Greek-style. Inspiration
from even the inside columns, well done delicious.!
Lorraine Milne

THE WINNER IS… Send your emails to [email protected]
or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
I just wanted to let you know and share with you my mum’s adoration for your magazine. My mum Julie has subscribed to delicious. delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.
since 2011 and has a proud stack of the 98 magazines she has kept – it’s 62cm high. She absolutely loves your magazine – every
issue that she receives in the post, she will pore over and dog ear most pages. Additionally, I will no doubt get a message saying,
“Gosh, Aims, this is a SUCH A GOOD issue.” She loves cooking, and is really great at it. And I think that is mostly due to your
inspiring magazines, well-thought out and approachable recipes, and ongoing commitment to making food an enjoyable

experience that brings people together. Thank you! Aimee Sics

ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Aimee (and Julie)! You’ve won a Le Creuset Signature
Stainless Steel Rondeau, valued at $420. Celebrated for combining the heritage of
European craftsmanship, the performance of brilliant design and inspiring cooks
everywhere, Le Creuset is proud to introduce a new line of stainless steel cookware like
no other. This Signature Stainless Steel Rondeau features tri-ply construction to ensure
even heat conduction and distribution while cooking. The wide range of shapes and
sizes makes this inspiring new stainless steel collection ideal for everything – searing,
sautéing, pan-frying and simmering.

10 delicious.com.au



JUNE

MENUS

BOLD FLAVOURS WINTER COMFORT FAST BITES

Peri peri Char kway teow
chicken wings (stir-fried rice noodles)





IN SEASON

“FRENCH CUISINE IS SATIATING.
IT’S TRADITION AND TECHNIQUE.
IT’S ABOUT QUALITY OF INGREDIENTS.
THE CULTURE AROUND FOOD, AND

ITS ENJOYMENT, RUNS DEEP.”



11/2

1/2

18 delicious.com.au

“WHILE THERE’S A LOT OF TECHNIQUE
THAT GOES INTO THE DISHES

I PREPARE, THEY’RE VERY SIMPLE,
BECAUSE WE HAVE ACCESS TO
SUCH BEAUTIFUL PRODUCE HERE.”







INSIDER NEWS

Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, trends & more.

Edited by Erina Starkey

@erinastarkey

TABLETALK

PHOTOGRAPHY GREG ELMS & TRENDING NOW
KRISTOFFER_PAULSEN
MAFALDINE

Move over macaroni,
mafaldine has fallen
into favour. This
frilly-edged ribbon
lends itself to light
seafood sauces, like
this octopus ragu at
the newly relaunched
Gowings Bar & Grill
at QT Sydney.

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/EAT-OUT Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our critics and reviewers. delicious.com.au 23

WHISKY BUSINESS COFFEE ART

Lark Distillery’s latest release combines bittersweet Espresso yourself with these bright
chinotto flavours with the earthy peat of single malt. new travel coffee cups by In The
Casks seasoned with Coal Valley Chinotto produce Roundhouse. Each piece features
a drop with blasts of burnt orange, toasty cinnamon
and smoky marmalade. $349.99, larkdistilling.com original designs by local artist Daimon
Downey. $29, intheround.house

SO A-PEELING CORE VALUES

Cut prep time in half with the Challenge yourself in the
Victorinox REX peeler. Sharp kitchen with chef Clare
swivel blades can tackle fruit Smyth’s debut book,
and veg as well as chocolate Core by Clare Smyth
and cheese. The clever tool ($89.95, Phaidon). Inside,
comes in lavender, blueberry, you’ll find 60 recipes
from the three-Michelin-
cinnamon and cashew, or starred Core in London
plated in 18-carat rose gold. as well as exclusive
$14.95-$189, victorinox.com.au insight into the work
and mind of one of the
world’s best chefs.

LET’S GET Lindt’s new dark NEW WAVE
chocolate block is filled
FIZZICAL Give leftovers new life with Anyday
with tropical mango microwave cookware. Made from
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SodaStream Duo is taste of summer - without a spaghetti sauce stain in
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harveynorman.com.au

24 delicious.com.au

YOUR SHORTCUT TO BAKING BRILLIANCE

NEW! We have combined two of the greatest desserts into one with the release of
our newest baking mix. Introducing the Tiramisu Brownie – your new go-to

sweet treat! The best news? It comes in a convenient packet mix so it’s
easy to bake, impressive to serve and delicious to taste.

NEW!

SHOP THE RANGE IN WOOLWORTHS NATIONALLY

delicious.com.au/bakingrange OR SCAN THE CODE





CLOCKWISE: Plates
of Catalonian delights;
off-menu caviar; chefs
at the pass; Alexander
Calder tapestries adorn
the room; snacks and
tapas bites (inset)

@parlarpottspoint

Potts Point’s luxe French brasserie Franca has a new sibling right
next door, writes Kate Gibbs, and it’s speaking our language.

PARLAR, PRONOUNCED “parlour”, Potts Point’s glitterati slide into comfy Wagyu rump cap carpaccio on a smoky
brings coastal Catalan dining with a side booths in loved-up pairs, while architects bonito allioli cream is a fun play on Italy’s
of Mediterranean cool to Sydney. with their grown-up families enjoy Louis vitello tonnato. The paella-like fideuà
Roederer ‘242’ Reims Champagne and marinera, dotted with fish and clams,
Just like Franca, opulent design is part tins of caviar that we, mere mortals, can’t features thin, short pasta pieces with a
of the experience. The 55-seat space – even find on the menu. It’s a special delightfully crispy underside. Creme
adorned with velvetine brown corduroy occasion place for as-often-as-possible. Catalana with caramelised white
and leather bench seats, Giallo Siena chocolate could become a cult dessert.
marble tables, Rosso Damascus marble The food focus is Catalonia, specifically
floors and curved oak walls – has been where it meets the south of France on the From drinks maestro Alex Raclet’s
renovated by owner Andrew Becher with Mediterranean. Head chef José Saulog menu, a Catalan Sour is fresh and zingy.
interiors firm Steel and Stitch. On the kicks off a share-style menu with snacks There are ample wines by-the-glass, and
walls hang exuberant Alexander Calder like Olasagasti anchovy churros with the NV Pares Balta ‘N’ Penedes Cava is
tapestries, from Becher’s own collection. creme fraiche allioli, a glorious lemon ideal to both set the scene and see out a
myrtle dust bringing flavours closer to night in this celebratory destination.
home. Here, in rainy Potts Point, is the 81 Macleay Street, Potts Point, NSW PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN
trip to the sunny Med we’ve craved.

Keep the snacks coming, they’re good.
The morcilla sandwich may be the snack
of the year. Gilda toast is an elevated spin
on the Basque anchovy, green olive and
green chilli pintxo with charred toast.

More substantial dishes play with
richness and texture: sweet with sour, raw
next to caramelised, smoked with fresh.
Saulog could play it safe and luxurious for
a well-heeled crowd, but shifts his menu
past the expected into the extraordinary.

The latest venue from an unstoppable Melbourne restaurateur is the
steakhouse of our dreams. It’s the restaurant the city needed right
now, writes Larissa Dubecki, and performs this duty with aplomb.

THE VENUE: Grill Americano, DISH IT
112 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
THE VIBE: A portal to 1960s New York, Our West Australian
Grill Americano is a place where foie critic, Max Brearley,
gras, wagyu and Barolo are deployed in a loves repping his home
giddy tribute to the gods of dining. Chris region, Margaret River.
Lucas (inset) has hit a home run with his At Frui Momento he found
addition to the CBD restaurant scene. a truly stand-out snack.
WHAT’S COOKING: The swoon-fest “Seth James has been in the
continues with a menu delivering the topflight of WA chefs for a
Italian-American grill songbook in the key time, so I had high hopes for his
of Sinatra. The snackage program from new venture with winemaker Larry
chef Doug Keyte (ex-Hellenika) and his Cherubino,” he says. “The fruits de mer is
crew is solid, including fried green olives as you’d expect from a certified seafood
stuffed with veal, pork and chicken, and whisperer; wrapping the likes of west coast
curling wisps of salumi sliced in the open occy in roasted seaweed with thin-sliced
kitchen with reverence. house-made pickle and a banging cocktail sauce
WHAT’S POURING: The mighty wine list inspired by Seth’s childhood. With a glass from
has a thing for Italy and France (don’t we their stellar wine list, not much can beat it.”
all) and an undertow best suited to deep
pockets – but interesting by-the-glass
options can have you reaching for a gavi
or nebbiolo over a riesling or shiraz.
MUST-TRY DISH: All roads lead to the
Josper charcoal grill. The choose-your-
own steak adventure goes from an
entry-level minute steak (200g at $48) up
to the Florentine-style bistecca (1.2kg at
$165). Dither over black truffle butter or
bordelaise, peppercorn or gorgonzola
sauce – or absolve yourself of choice with
the beef Rossini: eye fillet and foie gras
with a textbook madeira sauce.

PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN LANDERS 3 OF A KIND Get your snack on with these Spanish-inspired tapas restaurants.

For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out

delicious.com.au 29

DRINKS

Prefer all red or a
mix of wines? Try
our delicious. Red
Dozen or Seasonal
Dozen Wine Plans!

OFFER

EARN 1 QANTAS POINT FOR EVERY $1 SPENT *

SCAN TO SHOP NOW

CRITIC & THE COMIC THE CRITIC’S PICKS

THE SUBTLE ART OF POT & STILL FIG
NOT GIVING A APERITIF, $48
Pretty, floral and very
figgy, this is a beautiful PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
sweet-savoury liqueur that MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
combines a sense of true,
fig flavour and aroma with
attractive spice characters.
It’s an absolute delight
with this dish. Serve chilled
in small glasses.

NON 3 TOASTED
CINNAMON & YUZU,
(750ML), $30
This does what the label
says and offers tart-sweet
yuzu juiciness with a good
dusting of cinnamon.
Valencia orange juice
brings a little extra
dimension, too. It’s a
beautiful drink to pair with
this wonderful pudding.

FUTURE MOUNTAIN
DARK EYES AMBER SOUR
WITH BLACKBERRIES
(750ML), $32
This match is a bit left of
centre but felt compelling.
The pleasing sourness of
the beer resets the palate at
each sip, and a lingering
blackberry sweetness
marries to the almond and
strawberries in the dessert.

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

DAL ZOTTO, PUCINO
PROSECCO N.V, $21
Cheap and cheerful meets
quality and care, thanks to
winemakers with heritage
working with glera (that’s
the varietal’s less sexy
name). To make mimosas,
for those who know I
suggest ‘Orchy’, otherwise
just something not pulpy.

CRITIC & THE COMIC.

Malabi (Israeli milk pudding)
with almond and strawberry

(find the recipe at
delicious.com.au)

For more on the latest in the
world of drinks, head to

delicious.com.au/drinks

NORNIE BERO.

home grown.

Taking a popular cut of lamb raised on a flavoursome native shrub,
Nornie Bero gives the classic Sunday roast a must-try Australian update.

THERE’S SOMETHING SO GREAT about saltbush lamb, when 2 garlic cloves, crushed
farmers let the lambs nibble on fresh saltbush and its natural 1 cup sea parsley leaves, finely chopped (substitute regular
fresh, salty flavours are infused through the meat.
flat-leaf parsley)
Saltbush is one of my top five native Australian herbs and 11/2 tsp native thyme
in this macadamia crumb with native thyme, the combination 1 cup (90g) panko breadcrumbs
packs some extra buttery and minty flavour, with a bit of heat 100g macadamias, finely crushed
from peppermint gum. 1/2 tsp ground peppermint gum
11/4 cups (310ml) vegetable stock
I always advise having a little taste of native herbs and spices 60g unsalted butter
before adding them to a dish, to get a sense of their individual 2 stalks of fresh saltbush, leaves thinly sliced
flavours and strengths. When using native thyme, start off 200g warrigal greens, thinly sliced
with a little at a time to get a strength you’ll enjoy. It has quite 1 cup (200g) couscous
a pungent grassy aroma and carries a powerful flavour with
a fresh finish. Preheat oven to 200°C. Season lamb rack all over with 2 tsp PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
dried saltbush and freshly ground black pepper.
On the plate, I’ve added a side using warrigal greens.
Warrigal greens are a fantastic native spinach that grows like Heat oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat. Add lamb
wildfire in the southern parts of Australia. The big leaves hold and cook for 2 minutes to seal off each side of the rack. Set aside
their water content when cooked, so don’t wilt like other spinach for 5 minutes to cool.
varieties. This simple dish with a favourite lamb cut shows just
how versatile our native ingredients are and how easy it is to Whisk together the egg, mustard, garlic, half the sea parsley
incorporate them into everyday cooking! and half the native thyme in a small bowl. Set aside.

Nornie Bero is the Melbourne-based founder, CEO and executive Mix breadcrumbs, macadamia, remaining sea parsley,
chef of Mabu Mabu, which includes Big Esso, Tuck Shop and remaining dried saltbush and peppermint gum in a shallow tray.
Mabu Mabu catering. Bero’s debut book Mabu Mabu (Hardie Brush sealed sides of lamb with egg mixture, then press into the
Grant Books) is out now. crumb mixture, turning to fully coat. Place lamb on a wire rack on
a baking tray and roast for 30-35 minutes until lamb has a golden
SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS crust and is cooked to medium, or until cooked to your liking.
Set aside for 5 minutes to rest.
There are native ingredients needed in this recipe – for dried
herbs and spices, try mabumabu.com.au and herbies.com.au; While the lamb is roasting, heat stock and butter in a medium
for fresh herbs and greens, try specialty fruit and veg shops. saucepan until simmering. Add fresh saltbush, warrigal greens
and remaining native thyme, and cook for 30 seconds or until
MACADAMIA & SALTBUSH-CRUSTED LAMB WITH leaves are wilted. Add couscous and stir to combine. Remove
WARRIGAL GREENS & NATIVE THYME COUSCOUS from the heat, cover with a lid and set aside for 5 minutes or until
the couscous is tender and the stock has been absorbed.
SERVES 4
Slice lamb. Spoon couscous onto a serving plate, top with
1kg (8-10 point) lamb rack, French trimmed lamb and drizzle with extra oil to serve.
3 tsp dried saltbush
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle delicious.com.au/food-files @mabu_mabu_aus
1 egg
1/4 cup (70g) Dijon mustard For more tips on making the
most of native ingredients.

NATI IENTVE INGRED
NATIIENT
NATIVE
THYME

VE INGRED

WARRIGAL
GREENS

delicious.com.au 35

YOTAM OTTOLENGHI. POTATO

36 delicious.com.au PERFECT

Is there anything more satisfying than loaded fries?
Yotam Ottolenghi adds a global twist to this irresistible dish

with a tangy yoghurt sauce and spiced, smoky nuts.

OVEN FRIES WITH TAHINI YOGURT rice flour, oil and 1 tsp salt flakes. Spread PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN LOVEKIN
AND SMOKY-SWEET NUTS them out in an even layer so that they’re PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
not overlapping. Cover the baking tray
SERVES 4 tightly with foil and bake for 15 minutes,
until potatoes steam and soften slightly.
FOR THE POTATOES
Meanwhile, make the pickled herb
1kg skin-on Yukon Gold (or King Edward) stems. Add herb stems to a small bowl
potatoes, cut lengthwise into rough with the apple cider vinegar and set aside
11/2 cm-thick sticks to gently pickle.

2 tsp rice flour For the nuts, add oil to a small frypan
3 tsp extra virgin olive oil and heat over medium-high. Once hot,
add the pine nuts and almonds, and
FOR THE PICKLED HERB STEMS cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted
and nicely browned, about 1-3 minutes.
1 tbs finely chopped fresh coriander or Remove from the heat and immediately
parsley stems (or a mixture of both) stir in the sugar, nigella seeds, Urfa chilli
flakes, Aleppo chilli flakes, paprika, and
1 tbs apple cider vinegar 1/4 tsp salt flakes. Transfer to a bowl.

FOR THE SMOKY-SWEET NUTS For the tahini yogurt, add all
ingredients to a bowl with 2 tbs water
45ml extra virgin olive oil and 1/4 tsp salt flakes and whisk until
40g pine nuts smooth. Add extra water, if needed,
30g blanched almonds, roughly chopped until the mixture is just pourable, since
1 tsp light brown sugar it tends to thicken as it sits.
1 tsp nigella seeds (or black sesame
Remove foil from the potatoes, turn the
seeds) oven heat up to 220ºC and return the tray
1 tsp Urfa chilli flakes (dried Turkish chilli to the oven for 15 minutes. Use a spatula
to gently flip the fries over, separating
pepper, substitute mild chilli flakes) them if they stick together at all, and
1 tsp Aleppo chilli flakes return to the oven to bake for a further
1/2 tsp hot smoked paprika 20-25 minutes, until nicely golden and
crispy. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
FOR THE TAHINI YOGURT
To serve, transfer the fries to a large
60g Greek-style yogurt serving platter and drizzle with the tahini
50g tahini yogurt. Spoon the nut mixture on top,
1 tbs fresh lemon juice followed by the pickled stems and their
2 garlic cloves, crushed liquid. Serve immediately.

Preheat oven to 200ºC.
On a large baking tray lined with

baking paper, toss the potatoes with the

“DOUBLE UP ON
THE SMOKY-

SWEET NUTS.”

CHEESE COUNTER.

WAKE

& BAKE

one-dish bake to warm your winter.

@thestuddsiblings

MANY PEOPLE KNOW that Gouda is GOUDA, CAULIFLOWER & and bring to a simmer. Stir through the PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING DAVID MORGAN
Dutch, but do you know the correct POTATO BAKE mustard and cumin, season with salt flakes
pronunciation? It’s actually ‘how-duh’, not and freshly ground black pepper, then
‘goo-duh’. Sorry to put a stop to your SERVES 4-6 remove from the heat.
Gouda puns. The cheese is named for the
town of Gouda in southern Holland where 600ml thickened cream Layer half the cauliflower in a 24cm x
it hails from. Although the Netherlands is 100g unsalted butter 24cm, 6cm-deep (1.2L) baking dish, and
small in size, it is still one of the world’s 2 garlic cloves, crushed top with half the eschalot, potato and
largest commercial cheese producers, with 1/2 cup (125ml) vegetable stock Gouda. Repeat layers with the remaining
about 50 percent of this being Gouda. 2 tsp each mustard powder and cauliflower, eschalot, potato and Gouda.
Gouda-style cheeses date back to the Pour the cream mixture evenly over the top.
12th century, but didn’t take off until the cumin seeds
17th century, and are not name protected, 1 medium (700g) cauliflower, trimmed, Combine oil and breadcrumbs in a
meaning it is used throughout the world bowl, season and toss well to combine.
as a style of cheese. The cheese curds sliced into 5mm-thick slices Sprinkle over the cauliflower mix. Cover
are washed in hot water and the whey is 3 eschalots, peeled, thinly sliced on with foil and bake for 1 hour or until
removed before the curds are moulded cauliflower is tender and cooked through.
and pressed. Removing whey removes the a mandoline
lactose and creates a sweeter cheese that 500g potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced on Remove foil and bake for a further
becomes even sweeter as it ages. As it 7-10 minutes until the crumbs are golden
ages, it develops a gorgeous complexity a mandoline and crisp. Remove from the oven and allow
with notes of butterscotch, toffee, caramel, 300g Gouda, rind removed, grated to cool slightly before sprinkling with
toasted nuts and even chocolate that linger 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil chopped parsley to serve.
on your palate long after your first bite. 11/2 cups (75g) panko breadcrumbs
2 tbs chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves delicious.com.au/recipes

Preheat oven to 220°C. For recipes starring international
Place cream, butter, garlic and stock and Australian cheeses.

in a small saucepan over medium heat

38 delicious.com.au



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JUNE 2022 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

WORLD OF + Maple syrup
FLAVOUR pecans

+ RECIPES FROM
MALAYSIA, GREECE,

SYRIA & MORE

+ GLOBAL STREET FOOD

+ SIX WAYS WITH
SAUSAGES

+ CIDER-GLAZED
FRENCH APPLE GALETTE

+ TRAVEL TO PERU, BOSTON
& BIRMINGHAM

CARAMEL
SPONGE
PUDDING AKA:

SOUTH AFRICAN MALVA DESSERT

YOTAM NORNIE BERO JOSÉ
OTTOLENGHI Macadamia-crusted PIZARRO
rack of lamb
Hot chips with tahini Spanish menu

GLOBAL FLAVOURS *Allow up to 4 weeks from the time of order for the
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MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich
take a little trip to Dublin via Paris with a
satisfying stew ideal for cold winter nights.

THE CHEF AND
THE BUTCHER

C: Basically this is an Irish stew. A: That’s right. This crispy. Add the eschalots and carrot and INTERVIEW SAMANTHA JONES PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY
A: We’re going global. It’s French. is still very much a cook for 5 minutes or until browned. Add FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING HANNAH MEPPEM
C: No, we got on a plane and hopped French dish though. the mushrooms and cook for a further
right over France and landed in Dublin. C: Alright, fine. We’ll 5 minutes or until browned. Use a slotted
Mum’s got out the half-empty bottle of drop you in Paris and spoon to remove vegetables from the
red that’s been open for who knows how I’ll carry on through pan and set aside.
long and she’s pulled the beef short ribs to Dublin.
out of the bottom of the fridge. A: Suit yourself. I’ll be Add 2 tbs flour to the pan and cook
A: This is perhaps the most quiet I am up in first class. Au revoir! for 2 minutes or until lightly toasted. Add
ever going to be in one of these chats the tomato paste and stir to combine,
we have. BEEF BOURGUIGNON-STYLE then add the wine and cook, scraping the
C: I have my reasons, you see. We’ve SHORT RIBS base of the pan with a wooden spoon, for
never had beef in Ireland. We’ve never 1-2 minutes until reduced by half. Return
had red wine, and we’ve never had SERVES 6 beef ribs and vegetables to the pan with
onions and mushrooms. The French the stock, bay leaves and thyme and
have always had them… (That’s a joke Begin this recipe 4 hours ahead. bring to the boil.
by the way.)
A: I, for one, am lost. So we’re talking 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil Cover with baking paper and foil and
about the Irish and mushrooms? 2.5kg beef short ribs with bone, transfer to the oven. Bake for 3 hours or
C: Let’s move on to what you’re good at: until meat is falling off the bone.
would you call beef short ribs a secondary 4 pieces
cut of meat? 2 tbs plain flour, plus extra for dusting Remove beef and vegetables from the
A: This is the thing with secondary cuts: 50g unsalted butter, chopped pan and set aside. Using a spoon, skim
I consider secondary cuts to actually be 200g streaky bacon, cut into lardons off the top layer of fat/oil and discard.
primary cuts. 200g whole eschalots, peeled Return pan with sauce to the oven and
C: This is a premium secondary cut. It’s 2 carrots, cut into 1cm chunks bake for 1 hour or until caramelised and
like premium economy Fassnidge-style. 200g Swiss brown mushrooms, halved the liquid has reduced by half.
A: I love it. It’s not first class, it’s not 2 tbs tomato paste
economy, it’s premium economy. 1 cup (250ml) red wine Return beef and vegetables to the
C: This is a stew with leg room. It’s full of 4 cups (1L) beef stock sauce to warm through, then divide
flavour from the bacon, eschalots, wine 2 bay leaves among serving bowls. Serve with
and herbs. You may buy beef and think 1/2 bunch of thyme, leaves picked baguette and green beans alongside.
you’re getting on the front of the plane, Baguette and steamed green beans,
but then you realise it’s beef rib. But it’s @askthebutcher_
not economy, it’s premium economy. to serve
A: The attendant is there, you’ve shown @cfassnidge @fassnidge73
them your boarding pass and you think Preheat oven to 180°C.
you’re going left, but you’re going right Heat oil in a large flameproof roasting
– just not too far right.
C: You can still see the rope. pan over medium heat. Dust beef in
extra flour and cook, in batches of two,
for 3-4 minutes until browned. Remove
from pan and set aside.

Add butter to the pan and melt, then
add bacon and cook for 6-8 minutes until

42 delicious.com.au

BUTCHER’S CUT

SHORT RIBS

Planning on slow cooking this winter?
Short ribs are your best friend. The
easy, affordable cut is at its best after
spending a good few hours on the stove
or in the oven, after the meat has broken
down to give you that irresistible
falling-off-the-bone texture.

I’M LOVING.

I LOVE... Is it worth acknowledging that food tastes better when you are PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING DAVID MORGAN
happy? Take a magical meal in Lombok with the woman I love, of
TRAVELLING snapper cooked over coconut husks on a palm-fringed beach at
dusk, with icy beers from an Esky. The simplicity was everything.
TASTEBUDS
My trip to Portugal was also full of surprising deliciousness,
Dreaming of past travels, Matt Preston relives and no town more so than Beja. We’d gone there on a whim and
the unexpected dishes that have stayed with him. discovered a culinary wonderland – from slices of pork neck
salted and seared on a barbecue to braises of pork, potatoes
IT IS STRANGE THAT in the absence of travel, I’ve spent more and clams. It is very Iberian, this mountain-and-sea combination,
time than ever dreaming about it. What particularly snares me is and is at the heart of this month’s recipe, where tender cubes
the memories of those dishes that you never knew existed until of pork are finished with clams that open to cascade their salty
you travelled… and then fell hopelessly in love with. juices over the meat – seasoning it with just the right umami hit.

Now I’m not talking about legendary culinary attractions that PORK & CLAMS
delivered like Naples’ pizza, La Tour d’Argent pressed duck, sushi
or ramen in Tokyo, Hainanese chicken rice in Malaysia and chilli SERVES 4
crab in Singapore. I’m also not talking about obvious ones that
didn’t deliver, such as Istanbul’s famous fish sandwich (made with 4 large red capsicums, halved, seeds removed
imported Norwegian fish), or overcooked steaks in Buenos Aires. 6 garlic cloves, 2 whole, 4 crushed
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
No, we are talking about the devastating deliciousness of frijoles 1kg pork scotch steaks, cut in 3cm pieces, excess fat trimmed
negros for breakfast in Mexico City, with smooth, comforting black 1 red onion, finely chopped
beans and bright fresh lime, green serrano chilli and coriander; the 1 bunch coriander, stems finely chopped, leaves picked
simple joy of Madrid’s tradie lunch of a white roll stuffed with fried 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine, (such as an antão vaz, from the
calamari; or even the Buenos Aires choripán, a chorizo roll loaded
with a sharp salsa and eaten outdoors with a bottle of Malbec in Alentejo region of Portugal where this dish originates)
a brown paper bag, which erased the memory of those steaks. 1 large ripe tomato, grated
1kg clams, cleaned
So often, these culinary highlights are not the ones you need a Sourdough baguette, to serve
booking to enjoy. More likely, it’s kebabs wrapped in tissue-thin
bread cooked over savage propane heat in a Mumbai alley, or Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with foil. Start by
grilled mackerel – skin crispy, flesh oily – paired with a teapot of making a cheat’s massa de pimentão (Portugal’s classic red
local cloudy, sour makgeolli rice wine in a dingy Seoul nightclub. capsicum paste, usually made by salting capsicum overnight
then slow roasting). For a quick version, place capsicum on
The shock of the location is often part of the joy. Like the faded prepared tray and roast for 30-40 minutes until blistered.
Louisiana town straight out of True Detective where a bearded Remove from oven, cover with foil and set aside to steam for
man-mountain in overalls cooked a huge, bubbling pot of crawfish. 10 minutes, or until the skins slip off easily. Peel and discard skin
I couldn’t understand much of his Deep South patois, other than and stems. Place capsicum in a food processor and whiz with the
his happiness at my sigh upon tasting my first sweet “crawdad”. 2 whole garlic cloves, drizzling in 1 tbs oil while blending. Toss
pork in half the capsicum paste and set aside until required.
It was the same sigh I let out in Hong Kong trying steamed
buns glazed with sugar and pork fat from a chaotic Mong Kok Place a large heavy-based saucepan with a lid over medium
hole-in-the-wall, and that greeted a plate of Istanbul’s short, plump heat. Add the remaining 2 tbs oil and onion and cook, stirring
local anchovies in an old fishing village outside the city walls. occasionally, for 6-8 minutes until soft. Increase heat to high, add
the pork in batches, and sear for 3-4 minutes until golden brown.
I’d never thought of dunking ice-cold mango slices into chilli until The pork doesn’t need to cook through, as it will finish with the
that riot greeted me after the 1,270 steps up Sri Lanka’s Sigiriya clams. In the final minute, stir in coriander stems and crushed
Rock, or expected that petai (the aptly named stink bean) braised garlic. Transfer to a bowl and keep warm.
with sambal and prawns could smell so bad but taste so good in
Kuala Lumpur. Then there was the kanom krok (coconut griddle Add wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan with
cakes) in Bangkok that left a longing to rival any vacation love affair. a wooden spoon, until reduced by one-third. Add remaining
capsicum paste and tomato, bring to a boil and cook for
My teenage daughter experienced the phenomenon before a 6-8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, return pork and onion,
recent Paris trip. The most vivid memory she longed to recreate add clams, and simmer, covered, for 3-5 minutes until clams have
was not macarons, croissants or a meal in some gastro temple. It opened. Discard any that remain closed. The clam juices should
was the neat, crust-free croque monsieur – like a toastie that spent season everything nicely, but season to taste, if required. Scatter
five years in a Swiss finishing school – from a salon near the Louvre. with coriander leaves and serve with a baguette alongside.

44 delicious.com.au



Join us as we show you how to create restaurant-quality dishes at home with some DARREN ROBER
of the best chefs, producers and foodies in the business – think Peter Gilmore, Adam Y
D’Sylva, Nornie Bero and more. Here’s a taste of some of the episode highlights so far.TSON

HOSTED B

“ THE DELICIOUS.

ETHOS IS ALL
ABOUT CREATING
APPROACHABLE

BUT REALLY
EXCITING FOOD
FOR PEOPLE TO
COOK AT HOME.”

— DARREN ROBERTSON

SCAN TO WATCH

Bona fide seafood star Josh Niland
shares the secret of the cod roll
with a cult following. Josh invites
Paralympian Ellie Cole into the Fish
Butchery and helps the record-
breaking swimmer build her
confidence in the kitchen, just in
time for her to prepare a take on
Josh’s roll for a very special friend.

Acclaimed chef Alanna Sapwell
gets cheesy with an indulgent
kipfler potato dish, before our
in-house cheese experts Ellie and
Sam Studd recreate Alanna’s recipe
with premium Aussie dairy. Darren
Robertson brings it all home with
salt and vinegar potatoes you’ll
make again and again.

Respected Melbourne-based chef
Khanh Nguyen proves that tofu
doesn’t need to be tame by
whipping up a vibrant broth spiked
with native flavours. Fellow tofu
fan and media icon Yumi Stynes
follows it up with a wholesome
dish prepared for her family to
mark a major milestone.

Colin Fassnidge reveals how he
came up with the irresistible crispy
chicken bread that has become his
trademark, and shares the recipe
with Olympic kayaker Tom Green
for a family meal with a difference.
Darren Robertson rounds it out
with a baked chicken rice that is
sure to comfort.

WATCH NEW EPISODES WEEKLY AT

delicious.com.au 47



PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING VIVIEN WALSH

SAVOUR

Roti canai (p 56)
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MADE IN MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART
MAL AYSIA

EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT

Scan to see how
we interpreted this
classic Malay dish.

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