2022-06-01 delicious

EXTRACT.

“Thai fish cakes are famous around
the world – and rightfully so, as their
intriguingly bouncy texture and delicious
flavour, with red curry paste running
through the fish mixture, make them
a delight to eat at any time of the day.
I like to serve them as a snack or
precursor to a meal with traditional
sweet pickled cucumber, shallots and
chillies. Fish cakes also make a wonderful
light lunch served with a few coils of
kanom jim rice vermicelli noodles and
sprigs of Thai basil. If you don’t have
time to make the red curry paste, use
a quality shop-bought paste instead.”

Tort man pla (fish cakes with
cucumber pickle – p 104)



YUM AEPBPEERN
GAI YANG

TORT MAN PLA
PAD GRAPAO NEUA

EXTRACT.

Pad grapao neua (stir-fried
minced beef with holy basil)

GAENG DAENG BPET

WINE MATCH: TAHBILK
VIOGNIER 2021

Vibrant floral and stone fruit characters
dominate this youthful viognier. The
bold, rich flavours pair beautifully with
South-East Asian curries.









EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT

Watch how we fold
these street food
favourites now!

delicious.com.au/june









WICKED.

Cider-glazed apple
galette (p 120)
OPPOSITE: Ghotab
(walnut & cardamom
filled pastry – p 122)

“THERE ARE SO MANY
INCREDIBLE PASTRIES
FOUND AROUND THE

WORLD, SUCH AS
THESE SFOGLIATELLE
– AN ICONIC ITALIAN

TREAT STUFFED
WITH A CHEESY
SEMOLINA FILLING.”

@geodoes

Candied orange & ricotta
sfogliatelle (p 122)

OPPOSITE: Cheese &
cherry strudel (p 120)



HUNGARY TURKEY

FRANCE

WICKED.

Pistachio kataifi

“THIS STICKY DESSERT
IS DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE

TO PREPARE – MAKE
A BIG BATCH AND

SERVE WITH STRONG
ESPRESSO FOR A SURE

CROWD-PLEASER.”

delicious.com.au 121

ITALY thick slices. Flatten each piece into a rough DENMARK
CANDIED ORANGE & RICOTTA 9cm round. Place one round in your RHUBARB & CUSTARD DANISHES
SFOGLIATELLE cupped palm and press a deep indent into
the centre, creating a shell shape. Spoon in MAKES 8
MAKES 20-22 a heaped tablespoon of ricotta filling, and
bring pastry together to enclose. Place 1 large bunch (700g total) rhubarb,
You will need a pasta machine. on prepared tray. Repeat with remaining trimmed, cut into 5cm lengths
pastry and filling. Bake for 20-25 minutes
450ml milk until puffed and golden. Cool slightly, 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar then dust with icing sugar to serve. 2 tbs orange juice
1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp vanilla extract
150g fine semolina IRAN 2 x 375g sheets frozen all-butter puff
1 egg yolk GHOTAB (WALNUT & CARDAMOM
250g firm ricotta FILLED PASTRY) pastry, thawed (we used Carême brand)
Finely grated zest of 1 orange 1/3 cup (35g) flaked almonds
1/3 cup (85g) mascarpone MAKES APPROX 20 1 egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash
2 tbs finely chopped candied orange peel
Icing sugar, to dust You will need a deep-frying thermometer. CUSTARD

PASTRY 120g unsalted butter, softened 1 cup (250ml) milk
2 egg yolks 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
31/3 cups (500g) plain flour 1/2 cup (140g) Greek-style yoghurt 3 egg yolks
2 tbs runny honey 12/3 cups (250g) plain flour 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
200g unsalted butter, softened 1/4 tsp ground cardamom 20g cornflour
1 tsp baking powder 1/3 cup (80g) creme fraiche
For the pastry, place flour, honey and 200ml Vegetable oil, to deep-fry
lukewarm water in a stand mixer fitted For the custard, place milk and vanilla in a
with the dough hook. Mix for 2-3 minutes FILLING medium saucepan over medium heat and
until a crumbly dough forms. Turn out bring to just below a simmer. In a bowl,
onto a lightly floured surface and knead 1/2 cup (60g) walnuts, toasted (we used whisk together yolks, sugar and cornflour.
for 5 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Woolworths Macro walnuts) Gradually pour in the hot milk, whisking
Enclose in plastic wrap and set aside at constantly until combined. Strain into a
room temperature for 1 hour to rest. 1/4 cup (40g) almonds, toasted clean medium saucepan, place over
2 tbs pure icing sugar, plus extra to dust medium-low heat and whisk for 8-10
Divide pastry into 8 pieces. Roll one piece 1/2 tsp each ground cardamom and minutes until thick. Remove from heat,
through a pasta machine on the widest transfer to a bowl and cover directly with
setting, fold into thirds, and roll through ground cinnamon plastic wrap. Chill completely, then fold
the machine again. Work dough through through the creme fraiche. Set aside.
all settings until about 1mm thick. Lay on a Combine butter and egg yolks in a bowl.
large surface and gently stretch to make the Add yoghurt and stir to combine, then Meanwhile, preheat oven to 200°C.
sheet a little wider. Brush generously with stir in flour, cardamom and baking Line a baking tray with baking paper.
butter. Roll a second sheet of pastry, stretch, powder. Turn out onto a lightly floured
and lay next to the first sheet, overlapping surface and gently knead to form a soft, Place rhubarb, sugar, orange juice and
slightly to join. Brush with butter. Roll smooth dough. Place in a lightly oiled vanilla in a roasting tray. Toss to combine
remaining pastry and layer over the first two bowl, cover, and set aside at room then spread in an even layer and roast for
sheets, brushing between each layer with temperature for 2 hours to rest. 20 minutes or until rhubarb is just soft but
butter. Starting from a short edge, roll still holding its shape. Cool.
pastry stack into a log. Enclose in plastic Meanwhile, for the filling, place all
wrap and refrigerate for 1-2 hours until firm. ingredients in a small food processor and Halve one pastry sheet lengthways, then
whiz until very finely chopped. Set aside. cut each half into 4 (you should have 8 even
Meanwhile, place milk, sugar and vanilla rectangles). Place 1 tbs custard in the centre
in a small saucepan over medium heat and Roll pastry out on a lightly floured of each rectangle and scatter with almonds.
bring to just below a simmer. Gradually add surface until 2-3mm thick. Cut into rounds Place rhubarb on paper towel to absorb
the semolina, whisking constantly. Reduce using an 8cm cutter. Place 1 tsp walnut excess liquid, then arrange 4-5 pieces on
heat to low and whisk for 2-3 minutes until filling in the centre of each round and fold each pastry, leaving a 1cm border. Cut
thickened. Remove from heat and fold to enclose in a half-moon shape. Press second pastry sheet into 8 rectangles. Cut
through the yolk, ricotta, zest, mascarpone edges together and seal well with a fork. a hole in the centre of one pastry rectangle
and candied peel. Cool completely. with a 5cm round cutter. Lay over the
Place 5cm oil in a large saucepan and rhubarb and press edges to seal. Repeat
Preheat oven to 220°C. Line a baking tray heat to 175°C. In batches, fry pastries for with remaining pastries. Place on prepared
with baking paper. Cut pastry into 1.5cm- 2-3 minutes, turning halfway, until golden tray and bake for 30-35 minutes until puffed
and puffed. Drain on paper towel. Dust and golden. Cool slightly, then serve.
generously with icing sugar and serve.



with a twist of

SPICE

Gingered sweet potato tray
bake BELOW: Coconut and

lime cookies (p 124)

Coconut in a cake and ginger in a
tray bake… a hint of something
different takes Chetna Makan’s
desserts to dazzling new heights.
In her new book, The Great British
Bake Off star shares a collection of
her favourite recipes inspired by
flavours from her Indian heritage.

PHOTOGRAPHY NASSIMA ROTHACKER
FOOD STYLIST EMILY KYDD

EXTRACT.

CHOCOLATE, COCONUT AND About 200g vegan dark chocolate Without shaking the can, open the
PEANUT CAKE (70% cocoa solids) coconut milk and scoop out the solids into
a saucepan placed over a set of scales,
SERVES 8-10 50g smooth peanut butter leaving behind all the liquid. Make a note
270ml vegan cream of the weight, then set over a low heat and
“For me there is only one rule for chocolate 50g icing sugar gently bring to the boil. Chop up the same
cakes: they need to be light, moist and weight of chocolate and place it in a
slightly fudgy. This recipe ticks all those Butter three 20cm round cake pans with heatproof bowl. Pour the hot coconut milk
boxes. One of the highlights is that, even vegan butter and line the bases with on top and add the peanut butter. Mix
though it’s vegan, you can’t really tell.” baking paper. Preheat the oven to 180°C. well so the chocolate and peanut butter
melt, then set aside to cool slightly.
100g vegan butter, plus more for Heat the almond milk in a large
the pan saucepan and, as soon as the sides start In another bowl, whip the cream and
to bubble, take it off the heat. Add the icing sugar with an electric whisk until
300ml almond milk vinegar, mix and set aside for a minute, you get soft peaks. Add the cooled
2 tbs apple cider vinegar to give it time to split. Add the butter, chocolate cream and whisk until you have
50g smooth peanut butter peanut butter and coffee and mix well a spreadable consistency.
2 tsp instant coffee until melted and combined.
250g self-raising flour Place a cake on a serving plate and
50g cocoa powder In a bowl, combine the flour, cocoa, spread over one-third of the chocolate
2 tsp baking powder baking powder, bicarb soda and caster cream. Place another cake on top and
1 tsp bicarb soda sugar. Add to the milk mixture and whisk repeat until the cake is assembled.
250g caster sugar for 2 minutes until it’s smooth and
creamy. Divide batter equally between This can be stored in an airtight
FOR THE CHOCOLATE CREAM the 3 cake pans and bake for 30 minutes container in the refrigerator for 4-5 days,
until a skewer inserted comes out clean. just bring it to room temperature
400ml can of good-quality, full-fat Set aside to cool completely. before serving.
coconut milk

delicious.com.au 125

I HAVE ALWAYS HAD a sweet tooth, inherited from my parents

along with my love for all food. Growing up, I was surrounded by

amazing Indian sweets, but I was lucky that my mum had a tiny

round portable oven. She was the only person we knew who

owned an oven... and she had a special love for baking cakes.

The inspiration for every bake in this book comes from my own

kitchen. These are the recipes that I have been meaning to share

for some time now, all simple bakes, with an added hint of spices

from my Indian heritage.

In this book, you will find a collection of sweet and savoury

recipes, with ingredients that are easy to find, but which all contain something new to

make your bakes sing and shine. Most importantly, though, it is that special ingredient

that only you can bring... that bit of love which you add to make every bake special.

This is an edited extract from Chetna’s Easy Baking with @chetnamakan
a twist of spice by Chetna Makan (Hachette, $45).

COCONUT AND LIME COOKIES Take a lime-sized portion of dough, 50g stem ginger in syrup, finely
shape into a ball, then flatten slightly. chopped (from gourmet grocers and
MAKES 18-20 Repeat with remaining dough. Place on health food shops)
prepared trays and bake for 15 minutes.
“These little cookie treats are a lovely Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. FOR THE ICING
combination of zesty lime and chewy
coconut, all of which comes together with Meanwhile, make the icing. Break the 300g full-fat cream cheese
the chocolate both within and on top of chocolate into a heatproof bowl, add the 1/4 cup (60g) soft light brown sugar
the cookies. You can even try dipping butter and set it over a saucepan of Finely grated zest of 1 lime, plus extra
them in white chocolate or some caramel.” simmering water until melted (make sure
the bowl does not touch the water). Dip to decorate
100g unsalted butter, softened one side of the biscuits in the chocolate Handful of pecans, roughly chopped
100g caster sugar and sprinkle coconut on top. Set aside
50g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) to set, then serve. Store biscuits in an Preheat the oven to 200°C. Prick the
20g creamed coconut, grated (from airtight container for 3-4 days. potatoes all over with a sharp knife, then
oil them and place them on a baking tray
health food stores and online, GINGERED SWEET POTATO lined with foil. Bake for 50 minutes until
substitute finely shredded coconut) TRAY BAKE softened, then set aside to cool. Once
Finely grated zest of 1 lime, plus 1 tbs cooled, peel and mash with a fork (you
lime juice SERVES 8-10 need roughly 200g of pulp in total).
40g desiccated coconut
220g plain flour “I am not a big fan of sweet potato in Oil a 30cm x 20cm cake pan and line
savoury dishes, but it works a treat in this it with non-stick baking paper. Reduce
FOR THE ICING recipe. It makes the cake moist, soft and the oven temperature to 180°C.
delicious and you really can’t tell there is
50g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) sweet potato in there, which for me is a In a bowl, combine all dry ingredients
30g unsalted butter bonus. Ginger adds warmth to the sweet for the cake and mix well. Add the oil and
2 tbs desiccated coconut cake and a hint of lime gives freshness.” eggs and whisk with an electric whisk for
1 minute. Add the sweet potato pulp and
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line 2 baking 2 (600g total) sweet potatoes whisk for another minute until creamy and
trays with non-stick baking paper. 200ml rapeseed oil, plus more for the smooth. Fold in the pecans, lime zest and
stem ginger. Pour batter into prepared pan
Beat butter and sugar with an electric sweet potatoes and the pan and bake for 35-40 minutes until a skewer
whisk for 2 minutes until light and creamy. 200g self-raising flour inserted comes out clean. Cool in pan for
Break chocolate into a heatproof bowl and 1/2 tsp baking powder 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack.
set over a saucepan of simmering water 1/2 tsp bicarb soda
until melted (make sure the bowl does not 1/2 tsp fine sea salt For the icing, combine the cream
touch the water). Remove from the heat. 250g soft light brown sugar cheese, sugar and lime zest and spread
1 tsp ground ginger over the cooled cake. Sprinkle the pecans
Add the creamed coconut, lime zest 3 large eggs and extra lime zest on top and serve.
and juice to the butter mixture and mix 100g pecans, roughly chopped
well. Add the desiccated coconut, flour Finely grated zest of 1 lime You can store this in an airtight container
and cooled chocolate and bring together in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. Bring it
into a soft dough. Knead until smooth. to room temperature before serving.

126 delicious.com.au

EXTRACT.

ROSE AND CARDAMOM 1 tsp rosewater rosewater, cardamom, salt and cream
CHEESECAKE 1 tsp ground cardamom and mix well.
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
SERVES 8-10 200ml double cream Continuing to whisk, slowly add the
40g plain flour, sifted flour, 1 tbs at a time, until everything is
“This is inspired by the Spanish Basque well combined. Whisk for 1 minute more,
burnt cheesecake that has become more Preheat the oven to 220°C. Butter a 20cm then pour into the prepared pan.
popular over the last few years, thanks to round springform cake pan. Cut a round
social media. I love the rustic look of this piece of non-stick baking paper about Place the pan on a baking tray and
cheesecake as well as its very creamy 5cm bigger than the diameter of the pan bake the cheesecake for 40-45 minutes
texture. Adding a light rose and cardamom and its sides. Line the pan with this, until the top is browned and the middle
flavour gives Indian-inspired aroma and leaving the excess paper above the pan. is still wobbly. Leave it in the pan to cool
fragrance to this stunning cheesecake.” completely. The cheesecake will sink and
Put the cream cheese and sugar in a set once it has cooled, and that is how it
Unsalted butter, for the pan large bowl and mix together until smooth. is supposed to be. You can enjoy this at
600g full-fat cream cheese Add 1 egg at a time and whisk with an room temperature, or leave it to chill in
150g golden caster sugar electric whisk until combined. Add the the refrigerator overnight. Store it in the
4 large eggs refrigerator for 2-3 days.

EXTRAORDINARY AUSTRALIAN

kitchens & bathrooms

A FEAST OF
I N N O VAT I O N
AND DESIGN

ON SALE NOW

PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA HART FROM COAST TO ANCIENT CAPITAL IN PERU 130 >> THE BRUMMIE CHARM OF ENGLAND’S SECOND CITY 136 >>
A HISTORIC RAMBLE THROUGH BOSTON 146 >> CHEF SEAN CONNOLLY’S TOP ISLAND GETAWAY 154

delicious.com.au 129



Lima’s genteel Miraflores
district OPPOSITE

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT): A Cusco local in
traditional dress holds
a llama; Machu Picchu

appears through the mist; a
band greets Hiram Bingham
passengers; Tambo del Inka

delicious.com.au 131

GLOBAL.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Classic ceviche: Ceviche is Peru’s most famous dish; raw fish
cured in a zingy marinade (made from lime juice infused with a
kick of aji chilli pepper) known as leche de tigre (tiger’s milk),
traditionally served with thinly sliced onion, sweet potato and a
side of crunchy canchitas (dry-roasted corn kernels). There are
thousands of cevicherias in Lima, but you can’t go wrong with
old-school Canta Rana. If you like the heat, order ‘picante’.

Criollo cooking: Don’t leave Lima without sampling some of
Peru’s distinctive fusion fare. Criollo cooking is a blend of Spanish,
Andean, African and Asian influences, reflecting the country’s
melting pot of cultures. Isolina is a favourite for home-style criolla
food. Over a century ago, Chinese and Japanese migrants arrived
on Peru’s shores to work on the plantations, shaping Peruvian food
traditions today. You can taste this at Isolina in the lomo saltado, a
typical chifa (Cantonese-Peruvian) beef stir-fry with a truly local
twist – fried potatoes. With more than 3,500 types of potatoes in
Peru, spuds are a beloved starchy staple.

‘New Andean’ cuisine: Bring your appetite to Astrid y Gastón
in the ritzy San Idriso district. It’s the flagship restaurant of
celebrity chef-owner Gastón Acurio; a pioneering figure of Lima’s
cutting-edge Novoandina (‘New Andean’) cuisine. Expect creative
mash-ups such as cuy Pekines, in which the Andean speciality of
cuy (guinea pig) is paired with the more familiar Asian flavours of
Peking duck.

Make the pilgrimage to chef Virgilio Martinez’s famed restaurant
Central in Barranco, ranked fourth in the 2021 The World’s 50
Best Restaurants. Central is a celebration of Peruvian identity that
proudly showcases the astonishing biodiversity from the coast,
Amazonian jungle and lofty heights of the Andes.

Pisco sour, por favour: The pisco sour is a source of national
pride. The citrusy-sweet cocktail combines pisco (a grape-based
brandy), lime juice, sugar syrup, egg white and bitters. Resting
on its literary laurels as one of Ernest Hemingway’s old haunts,
Gran Hotel Bolivar is the perfect spot to savour a pisco sour at
the old-fashioned wood-panelled bar.

THE SACRED VALLEY
Set off for Cusco (a one-hour flight from Lima) in the spiritual
heartland of Peru. At a dizzying 3,399m above sea level, the air is
lung-achingly thin. To help acclimate, head straight to the slightly
lower Sacred Valley. Tambo del Inka is an oasis secreted away in
the Valle de Sagrado on the bucolic banks of the Vilcanota River.
The hotel’s design is sympathetic to its surroundings, with
earth-toned furnishings and Incan-style textiles, as well as touches
of stone and natural timber. The Kallpa Spa soothes travellers
with the deep healing powers of the water of the Andes. The
jewel-blue pool is framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, so that
you’re always connected with Pachamama (Mother Earth).

WHAT TO SEE
The Andean village of Chinchero, mythologised by the Incas as
the birthplace of the rainbow, is renowned for its brightly hued

132 delicious.com.au

“SET OFF FOR CUSCO IN THE
SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND OF PERU.”

handicrafts. Visit Indigenous Quechua weaver Nilda Callañaupa situated in the main square of Cusco. Venture inside to see The
Alvarez and her cooperative of local women in their textile Last Supper (1753). The iconic biblical scene is depicted by
workshop the Away Riqcharicheq Weaving Association, where Peruvian Quechua painter, Marcos Zapata. Look closely for a
threads made from alpaca and llama wool are dyed using natural curious addition to the menu – Jesus and his disciples feast on
materials such as flowers and crushed insects. roasted cuy, which can be seen lying paws-up on a plate. This
delicacy has been eaten in Peru since pre-Inca times.
MACHU PICCHU
Hop onboard the handsome Belmond Hiram Bingham train at WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Ollantaytambo for a bucket list journey to Machu Picchu, winding Mercado San Pedro: Spend your nuevo soles at Cusco’s lively
through the majestic scenery towards the ancient citadel. market, brimming with unusual produce such as alpaca charqui
(jerky) and herbs used in age-old shamanic rituals.
The train’s design evokes a bygone era, with striking antique
fittings. The aroma of delicious Andean ingredients fills the 1920s Fine dining in the Andes: Soak up the ambiance of the artists’
Pullman-style carriages as you enjoy a lavish three-course lunch. quarter of San Blas in the sunny courtyard of MAP Café. The
Afterwards, mosey down to the bar car. dishes are almost too pretty to eat, such as the cured paiche
(a giant Amazonian freshwater fish) with exotic citrus fruits from
Arrive at the town of Aguas Calientes, nestled in a gorge the jungle – cherry-like camu camu and cocona (peach tomato).
beneath a cloud forest filled with fluttering butterflies and Save room for dessert featuring corn from the valley of the Incas
hundreds of species of orchids. Follow in the footsteps of the with tres leches corn cake and caramelised popcorn ice cream.
Incas and see for yourself why Machu Picchu is one of the Seven
Wonders of the World. The mysterious ruins are magnificently Coca leaf tea: Coca leaves were sacred to the Incas, revered for
cradled between the mist-shrouded peaks of the Andes their medicinal properties. The bitter-tasting coca leaf tea is
Mountains. Splurge on a night at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge served as a natural remedy for altitude sickness.
with its unrivalled position a stone’s throw from the ruins.
WHERE TO STAY
CUSCO The elegantly appointed Palacio del Inka hotel looks like a
Once the capital of a vast empire, Cusco is the traditional gateway Spanish parador with a touch of Peruvian flair. Meanwhile,
to Machu Picchu. The name derives from a Quechua word Belmond’s inimitable properties are tucked away in the artisan
meaning ‘navel’ of the Earth. A rich combination of Inca stonework quarter of San Blas. Belmond Hotel Monasterio feels like a living
(once dripping in gold) and centuries-old Spanish architecture lay museum within an historic monastery, while Belmond Palacio
the foundation of this charming city. The sound of pan flutes floats Nazarenas next door is straight out of a fairytale. The restored
along cobblestone streets as rural Andean women dressed in 17th-century palace boasts oxygen-enriched rooms for a
exquisitely embroidered skirts roam with llamas in tow. rejuvenating night’s sleep.

WHAT TO SEE The writer visited in February 2020 and was a guest of Azamara,
The 16th-century Cathedral Basilica is built over an Inca palace Coltur Peru, Marriott and Belmond.

134 delicious.com.au

“THE MYSTERIOUS
RUINS ARE CRADLED
BETWEEN THE MIST-
SHROUDED PEAKS OF

THE ANDES .”

CITY GUIDE.

BIRMIN

The grand Birmingham
Town Hall is a landmark
of Victoria Square at
the heart of the city

NGHAM
and its gourmet groove
England’s ‘Second City’ promises to put on an unforgettable party when it hosts the
Commonwealth Games this year, writes Kerry Parnell. It’s the perfect excuse to discover
Birmingham’s rough-hewn charms and sample its booming culinary and cultural scene.
PHOTOGRAPHY CLAIRE MENARY

delicious.com.au 137

138 delicious.com.au

T

“BRITAIN’S
‘SECOND CITY’ IS
ABOUT TO TAKE

TOP POSITION
WHEN IT HOSTS THE
COMMONWEALTH

GAMES IN JULY.”

CITY GUIDE.

Instead, he creatively seasons his food At the other end of the scale, in its
with indigenous ingredients, many grown own sphere, is Michelin-starred Opheem
on his own allotment. by another passionate Brummie, chef
Aktar Islam.
Every course of the tasting menu is a
flavour explosion, from the monkfish liver “Having the choice of living anywhere
and Exmoor caviar amuse-bouche, to his in the world, I choose to live here, I love
superb Birmingham Soup, a beef Birmingham,” he says.
consommé with tartare of ox heart,
seasonal veg and a lattice tuile mimicking But what he loves even more is the
the design of the Library of Birmingham. challenge of creating progressive Indian
cuisine, on a par with perhaps only two
Everything is thought out and nothing other restaurants in the world: Masque
is wasted in this sustainable restaurant, in Mumbai and Haoma in Bangkok.
even the tableware is made by a local “We are all about taking the aura of a
potter using ashes from the kitchen’s dish and instilling a spirit into it,” he says,
barbecue and, until it was damaged in a maintaining he doesn’t make food to look
flood, the flour came from nearby good, only taste good. But that’s being
Sarehole Mill, a watermill which inspired modest, because dishes such as his Aloo
local author J.R.R. Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Tuk manage to do both. The humble
achaari pink fir potato is manipulated five
It’s not all fine dining, Birmingham is ways to produce a dish I’d be happy to
also famous for a completely different eat on its own for the rest of my life.
cuisine: the curry. And true to style, even
that has been turned into an art form. Thankfully, after all this curry, I discover
The Balti Triangle is home to the city’s another benefit of Birmingham is its
favourite dish – the balti. Invented in the walkability. The city centre is easy to
late 1970s by local curry houses, the dish stroll around from my base in the
is cooked and served in a special balti heritage The Grand Hotel, a former
bowl, a kind of mini wok. Grand Dame of the city overlooking
Cathedral Square, which hosted
At Shababs, one of the remaining few everyone from Charlie Chaplin to
Balti houses, owner Zafar Hussain gives Winston Churchill and Malcolm X and has
me a quick – and I mean quick – cooking now been lovingly brought back to life.
demonstration of the perfect balti, which
is cooked at extremely high temperature With knowledgeable local tour guide
and eaten from the same bowl. It’s Mary Moore, I wander everywhere, from
basically a stir-fry, with spices including the iconic Library of Birmingham, the
paprika, cumin and turmeric. His version cultural hub of the city with its delightful
is surprisingly light, which he credits to secret garden, along the canal to Brindley
using vegetable oil over ghee. “It’s going Place, a pretty waterside area of eateries
to clog your arteries, otherwise” he says. that comes alive at night, and around the
historic Jewellery Quarter.
While the Balti Triangle once catered
to post-pub diners, times are changing All this activity is punctuated with
along with consumers’ tastes – and so pit-stops at some of the city’s excellent
I head back to the city for a completely independent coffee shops, including
different Indian food experience. Mowgli industrial cafe and roastery Quarter
Street Food in Grand Central shopping Horse Coffee on Bristol St and local
centre is part of a burgeoning chain by favourite Faculty Coffee in pretty
innovative entrepreneur Nisha Katona of Piccadilly Arcade, which rotates its beans
tiffin-style fast-food restaurants which every two weeks. Then there’s Medicine
use super-fresh ingredients, much of Bakery, with its Instagrammable cronuts.
them vegetarian and vegan. The Mowgli This artisan, ethical bakery mixes food
Paneer, with its velvety cheese and soft with art in beautiful and surprising
spices, is delicious, as is house ‘show- industrial spaces.
stopper’ the Bunny Chow, a tangy chicken
and potato curry served on a bread loaf. Which pretty much sums up
Birmingham, really.

140 delicious.com.au

CLOCKWISE, THIS
PAGE: Opheem;

Quarter Horse Coffee;
Birmingham Cathedral;
urban canals; Medicine

Bakery cronuts;
industrial cafe chic;
Library of Birmingham;
plated at Opheem
(centre) OPPOSITE:

PAGE: Shababs

THE OFF
SEASON

IS OPEN

TO JUST ABOUT
ANYTHING

→



Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials
& everything in transit.

HOT SHOT

Capture travel memories
hands-free with the new
Canon PowerShot PICK
($629). This palm-sized
camera automatically tilts
and pans to track a subject,
which frees you up to enjoy
your trip. canon.com.au

GREENER CARRY ON Edited by Rosemary Slade @somestylishchick
PASTURES
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Oost. Tucked away on Texel aniseed myrtle and rosalina,
Island in the Netherlands, mixed with sandalwood and
the 18th-century former farm lavender, Meluka Australia
and seaweed barn is the Wanderer Travel Mist ($25) is
latest addition to Small
Luxury Hotels of the World’s a multitasking must-pack.
Considerate Collection. melukaaustralia.com.au
The eco-conscious 12-room,
adults-only hotel offers
activities like field foraging
and horse riding, meanwhile
Restaurant het Kook Atelier
dishes up Nordic cuisine
that embraces a ‘served
by nature’ philosophy.
slh.com/hotels/op-oost

144 delicious.com.au



BOSTON

MASSACHUSETTS

146 delicious.com.au

POSTCARD.

Discover Beacon
Hill’s historic

charm on narrow
cobblestoned
streets

There’s something special in the air of the
city affectionately known as ‘Beantown’,
discovers Jenny Wisniewski, as she takes
in some of Boston’s most iconic stops.

ON WARM DAYS in Boston’s North End, a mild, sweet aroma is
said to waft through the coastal air. This scent, if it exists, is not
the product of the town’s famed baked beans. Instead, locals
claim, it is the enduring legacy of The Great Molasses Flood.

It was January 1919 when a 40-foot wave of hot, sticky molasses
violently escaped from its faulty 50-foot-high warehouse tank and
poured onto the streets, crushing people, animals, and buildings.
The molasses was intended for a nearby rum distillery in the last
days before Prohibition. Instead, it killed 21 and injured 150.

Now a part of Boston lore, we are regaled with the tale of the
Great Molasses Flood while passing through the North End on a
Segway tour. Over the next days in the depths of a sultry July, we
discover more folklore and local flavour as we explore the North
End, charming Beacon Hill and historical downtown Boston.

THE NORTH END
It’s the peak of a hot New England summer, so the lively (and
mercifully air-conditioned) Boston Sail Loft beckons for an iced
tea and lunch. The weathered clapboard structure sits perched
on a wharf with bobbing sailboats in eyeshot, and is said to
boast some of the best fish and chips in Boston. It’s obvious
why: the breading is delicate with a slight hint of cinnamon, and
the cod is succulent and fresh. The clam chowder is also a
winner – a cream-based stew filled with potatoes, clams and
the distinct taste of dill, it arrives overflowing in a mug.

Following an afternoon spent wandering around the New
England Aquarium, home to a four-storey ocean tank filled with
nearly 1,000 sea creatures, the almost 90 Italian restaurants that
dot the district await to calm our hunger pangs. Despite the
number of options, an empty table can be hard to come by in
Boston’s ‘Little Italy’. Fortunate, then, that we have a reservation
at Trattoria Il Panino, where our Naples-born waiter serves us
calamari fritti, homemade pastas and a glass or two of Chianti.



PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES CLOCKWISE: Boston’s port; the iconic
pushcarts; market produce; Faneuil Hall;
Boston Public Garden OPPOSITE: Millions
visit Faneuil Hall Marketplace a year

delicious.com.au 149

AGENDA.

ON THE AGENDA

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