100 Classic Climbs

The very best mountain rock climbs of the Anti-Atlas

CLASSIC
CLIMBS

1ST EDITION | By Steve Broadbent

CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas

100 CLASSIC CLIMBS

1st Edition, September 2018
by Steve Broadbent

Published in the EU by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-0-9935486-6-6
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
©2018 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2018

Cartography by GeoGraphics

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

In the autumn of 2017 I was lucky enough to be living in Tafraout and the opportunity arose to spend a day climbing with Anti-Atlas
regulars Ron Buckley and Jim Nuttall. But what to climb? Seeking reliably good climbing in a mountain setting, we raced up the Adrar
Iffran path, dropped packs behind Adrar Umlil and climbed Event Horizon, followed by Guillotine Direct. It was a magical day of mountain
rock, and provided the inspiration for this guidebook.
As always, putting the guide together has involved the assistance of many people, to whom I owe my thanks. Firstly, my wife, climbing
partner, and proof-reader Katja Broadbent has supported the whole project from start to finish and accompanied me for much of the
research. Thanks also to Lina Arthur who has, once again, been pivotal both in researching routes and in her role as proof-reader.
Climbing all of the routes in this guide took several years, during which I was accompanied and assisted by many climbing partners,
including Dave Arthur, Will Benfold, Georgina Brooke, Ron Buckley, Pete Cawley, Caroline Culwick, Elie Dekoninck, Sally Fitton, Diana
Gri, Cameron Hall, Anna Lewy, Ben Lister, Matt Mellor, Rachel Mellor, Jim Nuttall, Aileen Robertson, and Mark Stevenson. I must also
thank Claude Davies, Malcolm Phelps, and the late Derek Walker for their additional research assistance. Almost certainly there are others,
and I apologise for any omissions.
Finally, huge thanks to our friends in Tafraout – Lahcen and Mohammed – who have assisted in every aspect of many memorable climbing
trips to Morocco, and continue to offer invaluable support to the Tafraout climbing scene.

PLEASE READ THIS!

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The
Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and careful
judgement. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained within this guidebook, it remains the
author’s personal experience and opinions – mistakes, inaccuracies and disagreements are possible and users should not treat this guide as a
substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement
of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text
contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front Cover Photograph: Dave Arthur on Dragibus (Mild Severe) on Dragon Rock, with the Samazar valley behind (page 99).

Town Plan Page 33 Contents | INTRODUCTION 3

Area Maps

Other
Guides

Climate

Getting
There
Useful
Info
Places to
Stay

Wildlife

The
Climbing
Things

to Do
How to

Use

Tick List

Lina Arthur in the tricky 5a dihedral on pitch 3 of Orange Rocket (HVS)
at Ighir Crags, Afantinzar (page 145).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Contents 4 - 12 Carpets 26
Area Maps 5 Maison Troc 27
Introduction 13 Accommodation In Tafraout 28
About This Guidebook 13 Accommodation In The Ameln Valley 30
Other Guidebooks 13 Accommodation On The North Side 31
Maps 14 Food And Drink 32
When To Visit 17 Vegetation 34
Getting To Tafraout 20 Wildlife 34
Money 20 Other Things To Do 43
Provisions 20 Other Places To Climb 43
Climbing Gear 23 How To Use This Guidebook 44
Health, Safety & Travel Advice 25 Grades 45
People & Culture 25 Tick-List Of Routes 46
Religion 25 Index Of Routes 213
Standards For Travellers 26
Buying Souvenirs

4 INTRODUCTION | Orientation map Town Plan Page 33

Area Map 1 | Page 6

Tak Taskra Tifghelt

oucht 7143 1:10 Tabnanat
Ayoufis 1:00
Escarp m e n Doudad Hotel
Asseldrar Kasbah Tizourgane
JEBEL TASKRA t
82
83

Kasbah
Tizourgane

Madao

Area Map 2 | Page 8 Tiqqi R105

IDAOUGNIDIF

34
30 40 42
Lazal Taltemsen Tifradn
Anammer 7 8 Amzkhssan
Douwalus
Tnine 1:00

Samazar Toudma 87 88 54
Road 89 74 53
Anelakht Aguerd 2 60 61 15 Ighir 3334 55 46 95
Aouguenz Ouzrou 57 Tamza 35 36 27 22 13 14
37 47 48 49 11 10 24 25
Talmst 26
Hairpins
65 Ogogn 50 59 73 84 1:15 Afantinzar
Talmst 85 91 92 98 Road
31 32 38 1:30
39 45 66 Anammer 521817

Tamdkrt 67 68 69 76 JEBEL EL KEST Jebel el Kest
86 96 97 16
P190Fo0ussaoun Hotel
23 81 Hotel Tagdicht Auberge Tilila Massif
21 70 Ksar Rock Guest House
2298
5693

Asner 72

TANALT Tajgalt Dwawj Anergui 19 79
1:00 51
Tazult
Amaghouz Asgaour
Tamaloucht
Tayart Anammer
Azouran
Thmani Igordan Ait Oumgas Ameln Oumsn
0:25
Dwawj Tagmout A m e l n Va l l e y
Hairpins
Road
Tagmout R105
41 Northside 0:10 Hotel Hotel
junction Chex Amaliya Tete du Lion
0:45
TAFRAOUT

Aday Tazka

ORIENTATION MAP – Tafraout Anti-Atlas R104 58
9
0km 2km 4km 6km 8km 10km
56
Main (regional) road
Provincial route Aguerd Oudad
Local road (surfaced)
Local road (unsurfaced) Aousift

6 Route (Difficult – HVD) N
31 Route (MS – HS)
65 Route (MVS – HVS)
97 Route (E1 – E2) 0:10
0:45 Approximate drive time from Tafraout
12 62
63 64 R107

Area Map 4 | Page 12

Town Plan Page 33 Orientation map | INTRODUCTION 5

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY Introduction Area Maps

Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061 I envy anyone making their first visit to Other
Tafraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 862993 Morocco’s Anti-Atlas mountains, for this is one Guides
of the most remarkable climbing destinations
British Consulate +212 (0)528 841219 one could wish for. Climate
British Embassy +212 (0)537 633333 The bustling town of Tafraout lies in the heart
of these ancient hills; an old trading post where Getting
Tizi Gzaouine local Berbers and nomadic Touaregs have, for There
0:40 centuries, gathered for the weekly market. In
more recent years, they have been joined by Useful
Tagmout Area Map 3 | Page 10 an ever-growing number of tourists, including Info
Ihouzine hikers, bikers and climbers who come to make
the most of the year-round sunshine. Places to
Sidi M’Zal During a period of time living in Tafraout, I Stay
was lucky enough to meet dozens of visiting
climbers, all of them bursting with the same Wildlife
visible excitement that I remember so well
from my own first time here, eyes wide with The
delight, senses overwhelmed. People’s reasons Climbing
for visiting vary, but they are all united by a love
of adventure and solitude, and a closeness to Things
the natural world. Enchanted by a fascinating to Do
culture, perhaps captivated by the renowned
Berber hospitality, few would argue that this is a How to
climbing holiday unlike most others. Use
From a climbing point of view, Tafraout has a
little bit of everything, from bouldering circuits Tick List
on the fringe of the desert and single-pitch
9994 0:30 sport crags, to roadside trad climbing and epic
10705 thousand-metre adventures on high mountain
ridges. It is best known, however, for its
1 tremendous selection of multi-pitch, traditionally
protected rock climbs, and it is these routes,
nat Aguchtim 90 Tizi set amidst the stunning scenery of the Jebel el
N’Tarakatine Kest massif, that I would find most climbers in
20 44 Tafraout asking about.
7778 That, of course, is what this book is all about. By
Tizgut 80 focusing on the best days out in the region, it will
provide a starting point for visitors to sample the
0:10 Sidi 0:20 very best of what’s on offer here, and whether
Abdeljabbar you have a few days in town or a few weeks, the
Idekel selection of climbs included in this book should
give you plenty to go at.
Taghzout So dive in, immerse yourself in Tafraout’s
amazing culture, and enjoy the very best
Amarkhssin adventures of this incredible climbing oasis...
ADRAR MQORN

Four area maps showing the location of all of the
climbs are included at the start of the book so that
they are easy to locate. To continue reading the
background information, turn to page 13...

12 INTRODUCTION | Area map 4 Town Plan Page 33

AREA MAAPit O4um–gTaasfraout South Ameln
Ameln
0km 1km 2km l3nkmVa l l e y4km 5km roundabout Tadart R105
Route (Difficult – HVD)
Main (regional) road A m e
Provincial route
LLIoogccaahll rraooaalndd ((suunrsfuarcfeadc)ed) 6
Poor track / piste
31 Route (MS – HS) Orientation
65 Route (MVS – HVS) N Map
97 Route (E1 – E2)
P Parking spot page 4

OAuzraoduu Tocho de kt Vall
Tafraout
R105
TAFRAOUT

Maison Troc
R104

Ighir Tazka Road Imyane
N’Targant Tazka 58 P
Aday
Aday Road Tazka P Napoleon’s AOguudeardd
Domes Hat
Afella
Ouday 9 56

TouDlzoouukht P
AKHADEJ
ey

OUDAFNE R107

Awmr

Aousift

Painted
Rocks

P

12 62
63 64

EFLODNE

Town Plan Page 33 Other guides & maps | INTRODUCTION 13

ABOUT THIS GUIDEBOOK ONLINE RESOURCES Area Maps
This book is a selective guide featuring one
hundred ‘classic’ rock climbs around Tafraout and Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you check Other
the Anti-Atlas. Although a few single-pitch routes out our website for latest updates, free stuff, and Guides
have been included (usually when they are part of discounts:
obvious link-ups or enchainments), the focus is on • Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and Climate
multi-pitch routes and full-day adventures. There
are, therefore, many excellent single-pitch crag accommodation advice. Getting
climbs which are not described here and climbers • Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels. There
looking for ‘cragging’ routes are advised instead to • Packing lists, maps, and other useful
consult the Moroccan Anti-Atlas guidebook. Useful
It should be noted that the climbs chosen for resources for your trip. Info
inclusion are not the best hundred routes in the • Free downloads, including topos and maps.
area; to do so would not only be subject to the • Guidebook updates and new-route Places to
vagaries of personal opinion, but would also Stay
lead to a very narrow perspective on grades and information.
styles. Instead, the routes have been chosen to www.climb-tafraout.com Wildlife
give an overall impression of Tafraout climbing,
encompassing a representative spread of grades Maps The
and styles whilst acknowledging the historical Climbing
significance of certain routes in the development Until recently the Anti-Atlas region was poorly
of climbing in this region. The result is a list of one mapped and finding your way around was Things
hundred excellent climbs that epitomise Tafraout’s notoriously difficult. Today, however, the area is to Do
superb adventure-climbing potential. covered by three series of GeoGraphics maps, all of
Other Guidebooks which will be of interest to the climber: How to
Two other Climb-Tafraout guidebooks accompany Use
this edition, and are available for sale on our Tourist Explorer Map 1
website at www.climb-tafraout.com This double-sided map Tick List
features a 1:750,000 road map
Moroccan Anti-Atlas of southern Morocco, as well
A landmark guidebook as a 1:150,000 ‘piste map’ of
to approximately 1500 the Anti-Atlas from Ait Baha to
traditionally protected rock Tafraout, perfect for exploring
climbs on the quartzite the area by car or bike.
of Jebel el Kest, including
everything from single- Outdoor Activity Maps 1-5
pitch cragging to 800m The whole area is covered at
mountain adventures 1:500,00 scale by this series of
across both the north and handy A2 MiniMaps, great for
south sides of the range. finding your way to the crag in
Tafraout Granite the car and on foot. Also useful
The only printed for exploring the range on rest
guidebook to almost 250 days and bad weather days.
routes on the superb
granite domes around Adventure Map 2
Tafraout and Aguerd For hikers and trekkers
Oudad, including sport wishing to explore the Jebel
climbs, trad climbs, and el Kest escarpment on foot,
selected bouldering this 1:25000, A1 MiniMap
circuits, all within a few represents the most detailed
kilometres of town. mapping of the Anti-Atlas
region currently available.

Sheet maps can be purchased in our online store at
www.climb-tafraout.com

14 INTRODUCTION | When to visit Town Plan Page 33

Snow on the summits is not unusual, even when
it’s a pleasant 26 degrees in town. Warm clothing
is therefore essential on the higher routes between
November and March.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

When to visit November - December
Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t let
Throughout the winter months Tafraout has an that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged enough
almost perfect climate for climbing. The long to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures can get
winter season, which runs from late September quite chilly, particularly in the shade or during the
right through to the end of April, is one of the evenings, and thermal clothing will be required.
biggest attractions for climbers looking to escape
the wet European weather. January - February
Although Tafraout can see rain at any time during The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the
the winter, it is rare and unlikely to spoil a climbing autumn was wet then January and February are
trip. Likewise, an unusually cool airmass can sink usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around
down from Europe, bringing surprisingly chilly 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies
temperatures to the higher mountain crags. and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the
Climbers visiting the area between November and autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls in
March are, therefore, advised to bring lightweight the early spring and snowfall on the summits is not
waterproofs, whilst thermal shirts or fleeces will unusual – be sure to bring warm clothing.
almost certainly be required throughout the
season. Of course, during the heat of the day, March - April
temperatures in the high twenties will necessitate Spring usually gives excellent climbing conditions,
cool, loose clothing when climbing. with hot daytime temperatures (between 15
Typical conditions are as follows: and 25 degrees) and long periods of sunshine.
Exceptionally, winter rain can persist right through
September - October to the end of March, though this is unlikely. The
As the summer heat begins to subside in late land is usually green, with pink almond blossom
September, conditions are usually hot and dry. and wild flowers creating a particularly spectacular
Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and landscape.
prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing crags
come into their own, whilst the south-facing crags
can be unbearably hot during the heat of the day.
Daytime temperatures vary between 20 and 30
degrees.

Town Plan Page 33 When to visit | INTRODUCTION 15

Area Maps

Other
Guides

Climate

Getting
There
Useful
Info
Places to
Stay

Wildlife

The
Climbing
Things

to Do
How to

Use

Tick List

Caroline Culwick on the magnificent final pitch of Central Pillar (HVS) on Adrar
Iffran. Steep walls, good holds and exposed climbing make Anti-Atlas routes

particularly rewarding for the VS–HVS climber (page 133).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

16 INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout Town Plan Page 33

Spacewalk (HVS) on Crag W above Tifghalt was one
of the original classic climbs of the Ameln Valley. Ron
Buckley on the spectacular traverse, pitch 2 (page 175).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33 Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION 17

overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus
services run from both cities. The best service, routing Area Maps
MARRAKECH from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait
Other
Essaouira Melloul, Tiznit, Idaousmlal and Ait Wafka is operated Guides

Chichaoua  TbdSAeyaayCItsTsNiMonSn,aatdnhvdeatonicucketebtaosnucdnadnsobjoepubrrinooeorykbeoodfotaektninwfgiwlliwus p.acdtsmevvi.semerdaal.. Climate
For the return journey it is usually possibly to book
Asni O U N seats at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before Getting
There
Imi-N-Tanoute L A S M
Useful
ANTI H IGH AT travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am, Info
A7 taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech.
Places to
Taliouine From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout by Stay
Grand Taxi. The airport is located out of town, so
AGADIR Taroudant travellers wishing to benefit from down-town rental Wildlife
rates or take public transport to Tafraout will need
 MOUNTAINS to go by taxi into the city (about 150 dirhams). The The
Biougra onward journey from Agadir bus station is usually Climbing
Ait Baha L A S Igherm made via Tiznit, for which it is advisable to negotiate a
price before travel (30 dirhams is normal). The Grand Things
- A T Taxis will wait until they are full before departing, and to Do
this can take up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often
Tiznit be dropped off at the south-eastern side of the town How to
walls, from where you will need to walk round the Use
TAFRAOUT outside of the walls (or get a red taxi) to Ave du 20
Aout, which runs out of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on Tick List
Getting to Tafraout the south-western side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the
The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute end of Ave. du 20 Aout, where it is easy to get a seat
or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in to Tafraout for about 30 dirhams.
the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily reached
by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Marrakech Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers
(a 5½ hour drive).

Flights Although not the cheapest option, private transfers
are available through Tafraout-based Maison Troc,
A number of UK airlines operate services to Agadir Al who offer airport pick-ups, as well as lifts to and
Massira, with return flights typically costing between from crags. This service can also be useful for hikers
£180 and £300 per person. Ryanair, British Airways, wishing to leave their car at one end of a walk.
easyJet, Thomas Cook and Thomson services operate Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909 to arrange.
from a variety of UK airports, though flights are
limited and can be expensive at short notice. Hiring a Car
Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to hire a car
alternative, and most major airlines run daily flights for the duration of their stay, and it is advisable to
from a wide variety of European airports. Return book online before your trip. All major rental agencies
flights from the UK typically cost between £130 and have desks at both Agadir and Marrakech airports,
£250. and good deals have been found through brokers
such as Holiday Autos and Rhino Car Hire (discount
Public Transport available at www.climb-tafraout.com.
Although many of Tafraout’s crags are accessed via
Renting a car is the easiest way to reach Tafraout unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), 4WD should not
and get around once you’re there, but as most of be necessary provided care is taken. A standard car
the granite is fairly close to town, a trip by public typically costs between £150 and £200 per week
transport is certainly feasible. at Agadir or Marrakech airports. The quality of cars
Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city bus has been found to be generally poor, with bald
services and taxis (of the grand and petit varieties), tyres, unserviceable equipment and missing jacks
which make a trip by public transport perfectly frequently reported.
feasible, if a little adventurous.
Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an

18 INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout Town Plan Page 33

AGADIR N8

A7 from Atacadao N8 towards A7
Marrakech supermarket and Marrakech
N1 & Decathlon
AGADIR P1009N8 Turn right out of N10
Inezgane airport onto P1714 Inezgane
P1009 Care! Follow signs Big, walled
A7 N10 compound (palace)
to airport

P1714

Ait Melloul  P1714 Ait Melloul P1714 to airport AIL
Turn right at roundabout
Lkolea and Tafraout DET
onto P1009
AGADIR
Biougra – see Ad
inset detail
R105
BIOUGRA R105 Big quarries
Imi Mqourn Ait Alla Jebel Ta
Steep hill
El Halat

P1009 towards Back street is easiest AIT BAHA Hilala
airport and Agadir way through town on Big reservoir at Winding mountain road
Tlata Uoanass with mileposts showing
Bus station & return to airport Tafraout distances
taxi rank

R105 – slower R105 skra Kasbah Tizourgane
way to Agadir Idaougnidif Madao

BIOUGRA

R105 towards Ait R107Sidi M’Zal Ait Abdellah
Baha and Tafraout R106
L Jebel el Kest
BIOU GRA DETAI
Tanalt Ameln
Turn left at Ameln

roundabout

TAFRAOUT rar Mqorn Roundabout with
police check-point
R104
Tahala

S Motorway | Junction | Services

National Route

Regional Route | Town 0km 10km 20km 30km 40km
Provincial Route / Minor Road

Town Plan Page 33 Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION 19

Best to avoid driving at the edge of the built up area. There is a useful Area Maps
into city centre petrol station here for filling up on your return to
the airport. Continue north for 5.8km, then turn Other
N8 MARRAKECH left on the N8 – this junction is usefully signposted Guides
Turn left onto Marrakech to the airport on your return journey. Either follow
N8 westbound the N8 through Oudaya to the motorway, or take Climate
Menara the signposted route via the P2006.
Speed The journey along the A7 motorway to the Agadir/ Getting
bumps  Inezgane/Ait Melloul ring road takes about 2 There
hours, and costs approximately 80Dh in tolls.
R212 Exit airport, turn Useful
right onto R212 The Drive from Agadir Info
Agadir Al Massira airport is located conveniently to
Turn right at the east of the city, so there’s no need to drive into Places to
petrol station Agadir itself. From the airport, turn right and follow Stay
the P1714 for 5km to the first major roundabout.
Escaping From Marrakech Turn right here onto the P1009 and continue to Wildlife
Although Agadir provides the simplest access Biougra.
to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas, many people will This large market town can be very busy during The
choose to travel via Marrakech as part of a wider rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, Climbing
tour of Morocco, or perhaps to take in the excellent donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their
sport-climbing of the Todra Gorge. depth westerners all share the road into town. Things
Marrakech itself is a fascinating city and well At night it is worth paying particular attention to to Do
worth a visit in its own right. Countless hotels are cyclists, who rarely have lights and frequently cycle
available to suit all budgets, and the city boasts on the wrong side of the road. How to
many excellent restaurants that reflect its modern, The road comes to an end at a major T-junction. Use
cosmopolitan image, as well as more traditional Turn left here, following the R105 out of town
tastes. The central square, Place Jma el Fna, comes and on towards Ait Baha. Note that on the return Tick List
alive every evening with a fascinating variety journey it is not possible to turn right from the
of street artists, snake charmers, and vendors R105 back onto the P1009, so a better way is to
serving a baffling array of dishes, the likes of take the back-street shortcut shown on the inset
which you’re unlikely to find anywhere outside of map.
Africa. Surrounding the square is one of the best Continuing along the R105 a large quarry is passed
examples of a Moroccan souq (market) that you’ll on the left, just before the road begins its climb
ever see, and getting lost amongst its maze of into the hills. Ait Baha is reached in approximately
narrow streets is a brilliant way of working up an 45 minutes. Keep going straight on, passing the
appetite for a meal of sheep brain or eyeballs back edge of town (there is a police station on the left).
in the square – assuming you can find your way Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (i.e.
back, that is. follow the main road) and continue until the road
For car drivers, however, the centre of Marrakech is snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there
best avoided. Frequent buses run from the airport is a fork – both roads lead to the same place, but
terminal to the centre of town, so it’s usually easier since road widening work in 2017 it is now easier
to leave your rental car at the airport and explore just to stay on the main road (i.e. go straight on).
the city on foot. The two roads come back together again just
At some point, of course, you’re going to want to before the famous Kasbah Tizourgane. Here the
drive from Marrakech to Tafraout (for some, this north side of Jebel el Kest provides a magnificent
happens sooner rather than later). Exit the airport backdrop to one of the best examples of a
and turn right at the roundabout onto the R212. Moroccan Kasbah, and for climbers the sense of
Continue for approximately 4.2km to a right turn excitement grows, as vast quartzite crags begin to
drift in and out of view to the southwest.
Keep on the main road, following it past Madao
(Madaw), Sidi M’Zal, Tizi N’Tarakatine, and then to a

22 INTRODUCTION | Travel advice Town Plan Page 33

Mark Stevenson on the spectacular Firesword (E2) on Dragon
Buttress. This sun-kissed wall of golden quartzite gives one of
Morocco’s best multi-pitch crag climbs, and should be high on
any climber’s list of aspirations (page 203).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33 Travel advice | INTRODUCTION 23

Area Maps

Other
Guides

Climate

Health, Safety & Travel Advice Atmospheric conditions over Tafraout Getting
Morocco, and particularly the Tafraout area, is as a winter storm passes through. There
generally a safe place for travellers, and there are Photo: Steve Broadbent
no restrictions on travel. To date, no problems have Useful
been reported by climbers visiting Tafraout. visiting Tafraout for short trips (up to 4 weeks) and Info
staying in a hotel, no vaccinations are required.
Immigration Rabies still exists in the area, and numerous water- Places to
British, European and American nationals do not borne diseases, including schistosomiasis, mean Stay
require entry visas to Morocco for visits lasting less that it’s worth avoiding the temptation to take a
than 3 months. Passports must be valid for the cooling dip in mountain pools. Tetanus is common, Wildlife
duration of your stay in the country. and travellers are advised to make sure that
boosters are up to date before their visit. The
Road Safety For visitors staying for longer than 4 weeks, Climbing
Morocco has a very poor road safety record, and or those wild-camping for extended periods,
all visitors are advised to exercise caution on the vaccinations may be advisable, and a visit to your Things
roads. Numerous speed checks and visible police GP is recommended. Hepatitis A, hepatitis B, TB to Do
check-points will be encountered en route to and typhoid are all prevalent in the country and
Tafraout, and cash fines for even minor offences vaccinations may be recommended dependent on How to
are dished out freely, with some police officials the nature of your trip. Use
seeming more 'law-abiding' than others. The Finally, it is worth mentioning that any injury
motorway between Marrakech and Agadir is a that requires medical treatment during your Tick List
particular hotspot for speeding fines. stay should be referred to medical professionals
on your return to the UK – even relatively small
Drinking Water wounds have been known to become seriously
Most properties in Tafraout are now connected to infected, and gangrene has been reported
mains water, which is treated and theoretically safe following medical treatment in Tafraout.
to drink. More rural properties still rely on wells
and ground water, the drinking of which is not Medical Facilities
recommended. Bottled water is widely available, There are no organised rescue services in the
and may be preferable, particularly for longer visits. region and all visitors must take responsibility for
their own well-being in the area. A pharmacy in
Vaccinations & Disease Tafraout provides a range of first-aid equipment,
Morocco is not a particularly high-risk destination, and a small health centre will treat minor ailments.
though some diseases which are not common in More serious conditions will be referred to the
the UK are prevalent in the country. For climbers nearest hospital in Ait Baha or Agadir, where
treatment will be on a 'pay as you go' basis, though
this is not expensive.
Emergency telephone numbers can be found on
page 5.

30 INTRODUCTION | Accommodation in Ameln Town Plan Page 33

Accommodation in the Ameln Valley HOTEL TÊTE DU LION  
A number of small guest-houses and hotels BAR
provide accommodation in the Ameln Valley, with
the advantage of being very close to some of Map
the south-side crags. It’s worth bearing in mind, p10
however, that there are very limited facilites here,
and trips into Tafraout are likely to be required Also located close to Ameln, this hotel is a
for supplies, or any variety of food. For those with good option for those wishing to explore the
a car, the average driving times to the crags are Ameln valley who don’t mind being away from
similar to those when staying in Tafraout, although the amenities of Tafraout. The rooms are basic,
climbers travelling on foot will benefit from the but clean, and excellent home-cooked food
proximity to a limited number of crags. is available in the evenings. Alcohol is also
available.
HOTEL CHEZ AMALIYA   Email: [email protected] | [email protected]
BAR AIR CON Tel: +212 (0)528 801165
Rooms: 250Dh (single) | 300Dh (Double) | 350Dh (Triple)
Map
p10 AUBERGE TILILA 

This very pleasant, European-owned hotel is Map
located close to the main junction in Ameln. It p10
offers very attractive, authentically decorated
and family-friendly rooms in an superb setting Basic accommodation in the village of Asgaour,
beneath the Lion’s Face. A very picturesque close to the Lion’s Face and within walking
swimming pool and terrace are particularly distance of several good crags.
appreciated on hot days. Email: [email protected]
Email: [email protected] Rooms: Prices on request.
Website: http://www.chezamaliya.com
Tel: +212 (0)528 800065
Rooms: 330Dh (single) | 500Dh (Double) | 1000Dh (Suite)

The Ameln valley, with greenery
flourishing following the winter rains.

Town Plan Page 33 Accommodation on the north side | INTRODUCTION 31

Accommodation on the North Side KSAR ROCK GUESTHOUSE  Area Maps
Accommodation on the north side of Jebel el
Kest is very limited, and the lack of provisions Other
and facilities mean that most teams will feel the Guides
need to visit Tafraout to re-stock at some point
during their trip. Access to the north-side crags is Map Climate
obviously much quicker, and the following guest p4
houses can provide an excellent base for a few Getting
days exploring the northern part of the range. Located in Anammer village, underneath the There
south face of Ksar Rock, this small guest house
KASBAH TIZOURGANE  provides unique accommodation for climbers, Useful
within easy walking distance of some of the Info
Map best climbing in the range. The accommodation
p4 is basic, but the young owners, Mahfoud and Places to
Fatima, speak good English and French, and their Stay
The magnificent walled Kasbah at Tizourgane is kind hospitality will add a fascinating cultural
one of the most impressive pieces of Moroccan experience to any climbing trip to the area. Wildlife
architecture in the region, and staying at the A double bedroom and one family room (5 beds)
small family-run guest house in the heart of the are available, alongside a comfortable dining The
fortified village is a great way to see a little bit room / social area and outdoor breakfast terrace Climbing
of genuine Berber culture. The Kasbah is ideally with fine views across the valley to Lower Eagle
situated for climbing on the north side of the Crag. Things
range, and has become correspondingly popular Accommodation is provided on a full-board to Do
amongst climbers in recent years, particularly basis, including dinner, bed, and breakfast. A
those who aren’t keen on long drives. Home- fridge is available for guests’ use, so if you can How to
cooked food is available in the evenings, but manage a supermarket visit in Agadir then you Use
the variety can be rather limited and no alcohol can enjoy a cold beer at the end of the day!
is available. Rooms can be quite cold in winter The guesthouse is located on the left, as you Tick List
months, so warm clothing is advised... walk up through Anammer, just before the end
Email: [email protected] of the village.
Website: http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com
Tel: +212 (0)661 941350 Email: [email protected]
Rooms: 360Dh (Double) | 540Dh (Triple) Tel: +212 (0)671 897796 | +212 (0)648 475447
Rooms: Approx 300Dh (two people, full board)

MADAO GUESTHOUSE

A small cafe / guesthouse in Madao provides
accommodation that might be useful for
climbers on a budget.
Rooms: 220Dh (room with breakfast)

The Kasbah Tizourgane near Idaougnidif is a
spectacular example of a traditional kasbah.

A small guest-house provides convenient
accommodation, though amenities are limited.

38 INTRODUCTION | Strategy & ethics Town Plan Page 33
Mark Stevenson tackling Ksar’s Cannon Tower
via Solar Event (E2). It is possible to arrange a
belay on the ledge to the left, though many

people choose to run this route out as one
epic 55-metre pitch (page 195).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33 Strategy & ethics | INTRODUCTION 39

A classic Anti-Atlas benightment. Do not Ethics Area Maps
underestimate how cold it can get overnight at
2000m, even when it’s 25 degrees in town. Despite it being more than 20 years since the Other
first British pioneers began to open up the Guides
STRATEGY quartzite crags of the Anti-Atlas, Jebel el Kest
Routes vary from friendly single-pitch outings to is still a ‘developing’ destination. Today, a huge Climate
long full-day mountain adventures. Whilst walk-ins variety of climbing styles, ever-increasing visitor
are generally quite short, descents can be long and numbers, and the proximity to Tafraout’s granite Getting
involved, and almost impossible to locate in the sport crags create the potential for conflicting There
dark. Overnight temperatures at 2000m drop to ethics in the region, particularly given the lack of
freezing, and all parties setting off on long routes historical foundation. Quartzite provides an ideal Useful
should carry spare clothing, food, head torches, medium for adventurous traditional climbing, Info
and a survival blanket at the very least. Unplanned with a combination of solid natural protection
bivouacs are neither pleasant, nor uncommon. and challenging un-protectable walls which will Places to
Mobile phone coverage is generally good, so it’s provide obvious temptation to bolters. Stay
always worth carrying a phone in your pack in case In recent years a number of bolted lines have
medical assistance is required, though no appeared on quartzite crags, and although these Wildlife
organised mountain rescue service exists. have predominantly been single pitch cragging
A selection of useful numbers can be venues, alarming reports of a bolted line up the The
found on page 5. Lion’s Face itself hint at a potential conflict in the Climbing
EQUIPMENT future. To date, these isolated bolted routes have
Protection is generally good, and pitches been established with an apparent disregard for – Things
can be quite long, so a comprehensive or lack of knowledge of – the ‘local’ ethic: in some to Do
rack is advisable. In general, the rock is well cases accidentally retro-bolting existing traditional
suited to camming devices, and a full set, with climbs. How to
some doubles, will be required on longer routes. A Although it is impossible to dictate how people Use
set of nuts and a few hexes will complete a typical enjoy the natural environment, climbers are
Anti-Atlas rack, along with extra slings and a good strongly encouraged to help maintain the Tick List
range of extenders and quickdraws.
adventure trad ethic in the Anti-Atlas and
preserve its unique appeal.
Please do not place bolts on the
quartzite of Jebel el Kest or Jebel
Taskra, either for protection or anchors.
On the granite tors around Tafraout and
Aguerd Oudad, on the other hand, bolting

has been the norm since the earliest days of
climbing in the region. Climbers placing bolts on
the granite are encouraged to bolt responsibly,
using modern stainless steel bolts. Power drills are
currently acceptable in the area, so there should
be no excuse for tiny holes and unsafe bolts.
Likewise, if you are going to bolt a route then
please bring enough hangers – there has been a
trend for stealing hardware from neighbouring
routes: a practice that spoils the enjoyment of this
area for future visitors.

Fixed Anchors

On popular crags a number of shared rappel
routes have been equipped with steel cables or
chains in order to avoid ever-increasing amounts
of nylon ‘tat’ which is unsightly and does not fare
well over the summer in the Saharan Sun. This
work has been funded and supported by Climb-
Tafraout and the local population.

40 INTRODUCTION | Environment Town Plan Page 33

The Environment
It goes without saying that all visitors to the
Anti-Atlas have a responsibility to preserve
the natural landscape, as this magnificent
and fragile climbing environment will not
last long if we do not respect and look after
it. Morocco is a relatively poor, developing
Arabic country, and those unfamiliar with
such cultures are urged to take heed of
advice given in the introductory chapters
of this guide. By doing so we will help to
preserve the unique appeal of Tafraout’s
climbing, its stunning landscape, and
important relations with the native Berber
people for whom these hills have provided
an existence for the best part of 3000 years.
• Respect the customs and religion of

the local people.
• Do not drop litter, even though there

may already be ‘local’ rubbish lying
on the ground.
• Please don’t leave toilet paper at the
foot of the crag. This has become a
particular problem at Ksar Rock.
• Try not to damage ancient terraces
or walk across cultivated land.
• Keep noise to a minimum and adopt
a ‘low-impact’ approach at all times.
ACCESS
Many of the crags described in this
guidebook lie within, or are approached
via land that is used by the rural Berbers
for agriculture. As well as this, several crags
overlook settlements and make use of private
tracks for access. At the time of publication
the local people are very friendly towards
climbers, and no access problems have been
reported. In order that this remains the case,
all climbers are asked to adopt a low-impact
approach when climbing near habitation.

Pilar Martinez relishing the steep moves at the top of the excellent
Guillotine Direct (VS) on the southwest face of Adrar Iffran. Júlian
Prieto, climbing below, has joined the shared finishing groove from
Goldrush (HVS) (page 133).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33 Environment | INTRODUCTION 41

Area Maps

Other
Guides

Climate

Getting
There
Useful
Info
Places to
Stay

Wildlife

The
Climbing
Things

to Do
How to

Use

Tick List

44 INTRODUCTION | How to use Town Plan Page 33

Topo title, showing aspect Details of the Crag map, showing parking QR codes for locations
and approach time descent route area and approach route on Google Maps

Yellow line for
descent route

Route topo, Page reference to area map Approach route
showing belays (for driving to the crag) from parking
as described Approach time
Approach route Aspect from parking
from parking Drive time from

Tafraout
Thumb tabs for

navigation
Route number

Aspect and typical Strategy – suggestions for Guidebook description Other routes on this or
conditions what to do with bags, or ideas of the route nearby crags

for enchainments

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK representation of the variety of climbing on offer in
the area, with a reasonable spread throughout the
This guidebook is for those days when you want grade range. In this way, the book should appeal
a ‘guaranteed’ quality day out – reliably good to the majority of climbers, and whether you’re
climbing and enough information to get you to looking for an easy but quality mountain day, or
the route, up the climb, and back down without to push yourself on something that you’ll find
wasting hours getting lost along the way. challenging, 100 Classic Climbs will fit the bill.
This approach is a departure from traditional Each route (or pair of routes in some cases) is given
guidebook style and it is intended to compliment a double-page spread that should contain all the
rather than replace the region’s more definitive information you need once you leave the car –
guides. handy for taking a photograph on your phone if
Routes are arranged (rather loosely) in order of you don’t want to carry the book with you.
overall seriousness – Great Slab being just about To get from Tafraout to the crag, however, you’ll
the easiest multi-pitch route in the area, and Eros need an additional map; for this an orientation
being one of the most serious within the grade map and more detailed area maps are located
range covered by this guide (Difficult – E2). The at the very front of the book so that you can find
book is broken down into four chapters as follows: them easily. Page references to the relevant maps
are also given with each route.
Difficult – Hard Very Difficult Finally, it’s worth reiterating that the main aim
Mild Severe – Hard Severe is to have fun. Use this guidebook to help you,
Mild Very Severe – Hard Very Severe but please don’t expect it to tell you everything!
Extremely Severe E1 – E2 Mistakes and inaccuracies are possible, and
It should be noted that whilst all of the climbs people’s opinions on climbs will always vary. If you
described in this book are very worthwhile, they have feedback or corrections then we’d love to
are not the hundred best climbs – instead we have hear from you at www.climb-tafraout.com.
selected one hundred routes that give a good

Town Plan Page 33 Grades | INTRODUCTION 45

ONLINE MAPS AND GPS Area Maps

It should be possible to locate all of the climbing in this book without the use of GPS or online maps, Other
although online mapping is available for those who wish to use it. Guides
Google Maps is the most commonly used application, and whilst it will not currently give step-by-
step driving directions in Morocco, it can be very useful for locating crags. Latitude and longitude Climate
coordinates can be entered directly into Google in the given format. For example, to find the parking for
Great Slab (see page 51), simply enter 29.75274, -8.93448 into Google Maps. Getting
Alternatively, scan the QR code from the topo to get a direct link to the Google Maps location. There
Step-by-step driving directions are not currently available in Google, but are provided in applications
such as Maps.Me, using Open Street Map data. Although not as reliable as Google, this application is Useful
useful for navigation when driving further afield in Morocco. Info
A third useful application is Locus Map, which provides GPS tracking and a variety of map overlays
which can be useful when out and about on foot in the Anti-Atlas. Places to
Stay

Wildlife

Grades Adjectival UK USA French Aus The
5.1 Climbing
The grading of routes is always a contentious task,
and inevitably reflects an element of personal Difficult 5.2 Things
opinion. The difficulty is compounded by the huge to Do
variety of climbing in the Anti-Atlas, as it is hard Very 5.3
to compare the challenges of a 1500m mountain Difficult How to
route to those found on a single-pitch crag climb. 5.4 Use
Users of this guide should, therefore, treat the Mild 4a
grades with a degree of caution, perhaps starting Severe Tick List
with easier routes until familiar with the style of 5.5
climbing here. 10
Severe 4b F4 11
Trad Climbs 5.6 12
These are graded using UK trad grades. This is 13
a two-part grading system, involving both an Hard Mild Very 4c 5.7 F4+ 14
adjectival grade and a tech grade. Severe Severe 15
The adjectival grade describes the overall difficulty 16
of a route, taking into account how well protected Very 5a 5.8 F5a 17
it is and how sustained it is. Severe F5b
The tech grade describes how technically difficult 5.9 F5c 18
the hardest move is on a route. E1 Hard Very 5b 5.10a F6a
For example, a route on which the hardest move 5.10b F6b 19
is UK tech 5b would be given E1 5b if it was very Severe 20
bold or very sustained, or HVS 5b if it was safer and 5.10c F6c 21
had fewer hard moves. E2 5c 5.10d
E4 E3 5.11a F7a 22
Sport Climbs 5.11b
Bolt-protected sport climbs are graded using 6a 5.11c F7b 23
the French system, which describes the overall E5 5.11d
difficulty, taking into account how technically hard 5.12a 24
the moves are as well as how sustained they are. In 6b 5.12b
the above example, the E1 5b might be F6b, where E6 5.12c
the HVS 5b might by F5c.
An approximate comparison between various 6c
grading systems is shown on the table opposite.

46 INTRODUCTION | Graded list Orientation Map Page 4

TICK-LIST OF ROUTES

1. Great Slab Diff Crag N p51
p53
2. Lavender VD Aguerd Cioch p55
p55
3. Advent Ridge VD Hairpin Slabs p57
p57
4. Escher’s Rib Diff Hairpin Slabs p59
p59
5. Tifina VD Fig Tree Wall p61
p63
6. Manzakuneen VD Fig Tree Wall p63
p65
7. Trick or Treat VD Amzkhssan Wall p67
p67
8. Amzkhssan Rib VD Amzkhssan Wall p69
p71
9. Freeway F4 Tazka’s 2nd Dome p73
p75
10. Cefn Garw HVD Adrar Umlil p77
p79
11. Evening Wall VD Adrar Umlil p83
p85
12. NW Buttress F4 Eflodne p87
p89
13. Central Slabs VD Adrar Asmit p89
p91
14. Wild Country VD Adrar Asmit p93
p95
15. Black Peter HVD Ighir Crags p95
p97
16. Infinity ridge Diff Tagdicht p99
p99
17. Curved Ridge HVD Lower Eagle Crag p101
p101
18. Donkey Serenades HVD Lower Eagle Crag p103
p105
19. The Angel’s Crest Diff Jebel el Kest p105
p107
20. Millennium Ridge HVD Upper Prophet Peak p107
p109
21. Honeycomb Buttress Sev Agouti p111
p113
22. South Ridge Sev Adrar Umlil p115
p117
23. Igiliz-Agouti Traverse MS Agouti p119
p121
24. Sunset Boulevard Sev Adrar Umlil p125
p125
25. Northwest Face Sev Adrar Umlil p127

26. West Side Story Sev Adrar Asmit

27. So Much for Sundowners Sev Adrar Umlil

28. Serengeti Sev Aylim

29. Thunder Rib Sev Aylim

30. Scrunchie Sev Hairpin Slabs

31. Dragolo HS Dragon Rock

32. Dragibus MS Dragon Rock

33. Mojo Sev Akida

34. Alabama Buttress HS Akida

35. East Buttress Sev Ksar Rock

36. Lady X HS Ksar Rock

37. Noah’s Ark HS Ksar Rock

38. Apollo HS Dragon Rock

39. Dragon Ridge Sev Dragon Rock

40. Silverline / Sideburn HS Hairpin Slabs

41. Sun Ribbon Arête HS Robin Hood Rocks

42. Snakehike HS Hairpin Slabs

43. Pan’s Labyrinth Direct HS Taskra East Pillars

44. Pinnacle Ridge Sev Prophet Peak

45. Dragonstone HS Dragon Rock

46. Auld Lang Syne HS Adrar Umlil

47. Sahara MVS Ksar Rock

48. Jedi Groove HVS 4c Ksar Rock

49. Civilization HVS 4c Ksar Rock

Steve Robinson, high on the Cracked Pillar variation (E1) to Aylim’s magnificent
Central Buttress (VS). The avoidable variation pitches on this route offer a unique
opportunity to push your grade a thousand feet above the valley floor. (page 155).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Orientation Map Page 4 Graded list | INTRODUCTION 47

50. Paladin VS 4b Ksar Rock p127 Area Maps
p129
51. Left Ramp VS 4c Crag K p131 Other
p133 Guides
52. Pink Lady VS 4c Lower Eagle Crag p133
p135 Climate
53. Guillotine Direct VS 4c Adrar Iffran p137
p139 Getting
54. Central Pillar HVS 5a Adrar Iffran p141 There
p143 Useful
55. Event Horizon HVS 5a Adrar Umlil p145 Info
p145 Places to
56. High Sierra VS 5a High Sierra Dome p147 Stay
p147
57. Tower Ridge Direct MVS 4b Afantztgult p147 Wildlife
p149
58. Flake Quake HVS 5a Flake Quake Dome p151 The
p151 Climbing
59. Great Eastern VS 5a Ksar Rock p153 Things
p153
60. Orange Rocket VS 5a Ighir Crags p155 to Do
p157 How to
61. The Main of Light HVS 5a Ighir Crags p159
p161 Use
62. Nutcracker F5c Eflodne p163
p165 Tick List
63. Bolero F5c Eflodne p167
p169
64. Marble Arch F6a+ Eflodne p171
p173
65. Scimitar Ridge VS 5a Safinah p175
p177
66. Electron HVS 5b Dragon Rock p179
p183
67. Proton VS 5a Dragon Rock p185
p185
68. Jungle Book HVS 5b Dragon Rock p187
p189
69. Flight of the Phoenix HVS 4c Dragon Rock p191
p191
70. Central Buttress VS 4c Aylim p193
p195
71. Multiple Pillars of Pleasure HVS 5a Taskra p195
p197
72. The Eagle’s Beak HVS 4c Anergui Upper p199
p201
73. Aerobat HVS 5a Ksar Rock p203
p205
74. The Lion King HVS 5b Adrar Umlil p207
p209
75. Gamma HVS 5a Greek Buttress p211

76. Crazy Mushrooms Ridge HVS 5b Babouche

77. White Tower Original HVS 5a Tifghalt

78. White Tower Direct HVS 5a Tifghalt

79. The Great Ridge VS 5a Asgaour

80. Spacewalk HVS 4c Tifghalt

81. Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a Aylim

82. Asendrar Welcome HVS 4c The Thumb

83. The Marrakesh Express E1 5a Tramline Slabs

84. Pelez E1 5b Ksar Rock

85. Pour Manger HVS 5b Ksar Rock

86. Brisingr E1 5b Dragon Rock

87. Rock the Kasbah E1 5b Adrar Umlil

88. Leaving Las Vegas E1 5b Adrar Umlil

89. The Golden Compass E1 5b Adrar Umlil

90. Tizgut Crack E1 5b Tizgut Gorge

91. Solar Event E2 5c Ksar Rock

92. Cannon Crack E1 5b Ksar Rock

93. Braveheart E1 5a Fig Tree Wall

94. Great Corner E1 5b Crag ND

95. Voyager E2 5b Adrar Iffran

96. Firesword E2 5b Dragon Rock

97. Game of Thrones E2 5a Dragon Rock

98. If I Sit Still Too Long... E2 5c Ksar Rock

99. Bowline E2 5b Crag ND

100. Eros E2 5b Greek Buttress

Caroline Culwick and Mark Stevenson on the top pitch of Jedi Groove (HVS) on
Ksar Rock. Usually combined with the excellent Sahara (MVS), this is one of the
most popular routes in the whole range (page 125).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

48 Difficult – Hard Very Difficult

Katja Broadbent enjoying the superb easy climbing on the upper section
of Curved Ridge (HVD), high above Afantinzar on Lower Eagle Crag. The
Anti-Atlas mountains are a paradise for climbers looking for long, low-
grade mountain routes on spectacular, clean faces (page 73).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Difficult – Hard Very Difficult 49

Matt Mellor, high on Infinity Ridge (Difficult) above the
village of Tagdicht. With some 23 pitches of low-grade
climbing, this route is a treat for lovers of long, traditional

mountain adventures (page 71).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

XX

50 Great Slab | UPPER CRAG N Map Page 10

Map page 10  Descent: From the shoulder there is a

1:00 UPPER CRAG N | Great Slab short scramble down into the gully behind the
crag, which can be followed easily rightwards
to the hillside below.

Scramble down from Descend rightwards
shoulder into gully down gully

P4
Finish up

pleasant arête

P3
Continue up crack
towards right arête

P2
Follow vague crack
up slab

P1 Shallow groove system.
Move left to poor belay

Scramble up just left of
1 short black-streaked

wall

Aspect: Both the long walk-in and the climb
are likely to be in the sunshine, so this is a route
best saved for periods of cooler weather when
winter sun will be appreciated.
Strategy: The descent gully comes out some
way below and to the right of the route, so in
order to avoid having to climb back up to the
base it is best to carry everything up the route
with you.

1500

osque Valley Map Page 10 1400 Crag Q UPPER CRAG N | Great Slab2100 51
Slabs 1300 Gorge

1200 Great Slab Aguchtim 2000
Maison Oumsnat Flakes
BBeulltetrVeusse PaGlmorgTreee Traditionelle TizUpperROUTE STARTPAR18K010I7N00G
Crag P Crag N Aguchtim GorgeBlack
Central1400 Flake
Ancient Settlement Crag N Crag gut Gorge

Alternative Great Slab 1600
approach
1300 Lower GPS 29.7660125,00 GPS 29.75274,
Cemetery 1200 Crag N -8.929114000 -8.93448Tizgut

Mosque Gorge

1300

Oumsnat 1100 1200 Diamond
Crag
Recommended N Aguchtim
approach

Track between 1302 Tizgut
compounds
1181 AREA MAP SWImi-Tizgut 0:15 P
P Cemetery Imi- page 10
Aguchtim Tizgut
1. GREAT SLABR105
1:00
UPPER CRAG N | See area map page 10

Although barely more than a scramble, Great Slab has plenty to offer those looking for a very easy day out
close to Tafraout. Despite the fairly long approach (by Anti-Atlas standards at least), the climb is generally
considered to be a short, low-commitment day and the route makes a good introduction for those
visiting the area for the first time. That said, protection and belays are notoriously difficult to arrange, and
many climbers find themselves running out entire pitches with no worthwhile gear – it is therefore not a
great choice for your first lead.1334
Great Slab was first climbed by two of the original pioneers of Tafraout climbing, Paul Ross and Trevor Great Slab
Jones, back in 1995. Having easily reached the top of the slab, the pair attempted to continue up the Lavender
tempting but much steeper buttress above the shoulder – an endeavour that saw Jones swinging in
space whilst his leader rigged a pulley system to haul him to safety. This whole episode was accompanied Advent Ridge
Escher’s Rib

Tifina
Manzakuneen

by a barrage of unhelpful mockery from their companions spectating from nearby Middle Slab Route, who Trick orTreat
wisely decided that the routes hereabouts are best terminated on the shoulder. Amzkhssan Rib
Freeway

The continuation above the shoulder gives a rather poor HVS known as Agony Arête, but most people will Cefn Garw
scramble down the short step into the gully behind and run away bravely to the bar... Evening Wall
NW Buttress

Parking: The best approach is from the Aguchtim road, which turns off the main Ameln road between Central Slabs
two compounds approximately 1km east of the Oumsnat turning. It is possible to park at various points Wild Country
Black Peter

along this track. Infinity Ridge

Curved Ridge
Approach: The crag is visible from the valley floor, and it is simply a case of picking the easiest way up the Donkey Serenades
long hillside towards the prominent slab. An alternative approach is possible from the large mosque in Angel’s Crest
Oumsnat village, and whilst this is marginally more interesting, it is much harder to follow in descent and Millennium Ridge

is therefore not recommended.

1. Great Slab Difficult 2) 40m. Step back right and climb a vague crack feature
just right of a shallow corner to poor belays in the shallow
150m. The prominent curving slab gives a worthwhile groove.
3) 30m. Continue straight up the same narrow crack system
climb on good rock. The climbing is very straightforward, to reach ledges on the right side of the arête.
through protection can be difficult to arrange. Start by 4) 35m. Nice climbing up the arête to belay on a small
scrambling approximately 20m up to some stony ledges tower at the shoulder.
beneath the easy-angled slabs.
1) 45m. Very easy climbing up the slab with little in the Paul Ross & Trevor Jones, 1995.
way of protection. Step left to belay at blocks.

01

60 Freeway | TAZKA’S 2nd DOME Map Page 12

 Descent: Head up rightwards over Map page 12

the fine little summit, then descend the 0:10 TAZKA’S 2nd DOME
northeast ridge a short way until it is possible
to scramble down on the left (north) side of Bolted slab
the ridge to the broad col and an easy walk right of gully
back to the valley. Walk right

P3

Very easy padding, P2 Walk right,
few bolts. Head for then mantel up
right-hand side of cave beside bolt on
left wall
overhang.

Belay at right-
hand side of
cave overhang

Take care not to
take left-hand
bolted line. This is
Cul-de-Sac (F4)

Trend rightwards Identify correct bolted
along vague ramp line straight up from
belay (hard to spot)
system
P1

Crux friction F4+ F5a F5c F5c
moves
Numerous bolted
9 climbs on lower
wall, up to 35m lin

length.

Aspect: This southeast-facing crag warms up
quickly during the day and is a great choice
during periods of cooler weather. Best avoided
in the early season when it can be very hot.
Strategy: Although it is possible to cut back
along the base of the dome from the descent
route, it’s easier to carry everything up the route
and descend directly to the car.

Ighir 1100 La Gazelle Flor de North Tor 1200
’Targant B
11001061 Luna 1230
100 1100
Map Page 12 Ancient Berber Hidden TAZKA’S 2nd DOMECirque du Soleil Cirque | FreewayImyane6Tor1
House Valley Tor du Soleil Agadir
Cantilever Sector Ibrahim
Tocho el Tor 1132
Regalito
Cancho 1147
n’Targant PARKING Central Tor
1094 1230
Cancho Rizo Palm Grove ValleyTocho de Tazka’s Second TazkFala’skeFTiorrst
1080 N alleyTazka Hidden V Dome Dom1e207
Cancho Alto Flake Quake
1113 GPS 29.70170, Freeway High Tor 1

o -8.98649 Tazka Tor 1230
tures
Tazga Pas Tazka 1230 9 Black Wall ValleBylack Wall
First Crag
Dome P Bee hives 1108 Last house in
1140 ROUTE START Lovers’ Crag
Tazka village

Second Palm High Sierra The Fortress P Napoleon’s
Dome Grove 1160 1116
1118 Crag

Freeway GPS 29.69698, Yellow Tor Hat
-8.98952 Agadir 

1214 1115 Agu
Ou
9. FREEWAYTAZKA’S 2ND DOME, South Buttress | See area map page AREA MAP SE 0:10 0:10
page 12 thanks Village
Saddleback Tor
o1f2JeHbigehlSeierlraKVeallsDtov,emTorainly to its crumbly
Tafraout granite has never been as popular as th1e158quartzite
100 ey Tor
Aguerd Slabs
Tazka Valley
mrkt Valley
reputation and the historical lack of climbing information. Freeway, however, is one exception, and this
spAulsemwasmealinltatosefiaTtssayzckocalni’msveSbnehcieoansntdbloeDccoaotmmioeen–acalvoemsreyatgponoTipfaiucfrleaanorturevtsi,etoD-wandrkpeaTooyroiafnctthtfiervoibtmRyiaginowbaovwhpeTirpocrtehhatelosyoseufartrvhse.isyrtohueteeAxiwstrtahoerdsuinpaerrylittle
landscape of granite tors and domes to the south of Tafraout. It’s particularly attractive late in the day,
when the striking line of Freeway catches the evening sun perfectly.
Great Slab
pThitechrosuptoertiscfluimllybbs oleltaedduapntdoctahnebfiersctlbimelbaeydarnedlactaivnAewblmyerkqtcTuolriimckblye,dbuptrifoorrttohcoosentwinaunitninggump tohree,uspepvFeeirrsrtaTploristicnhgeles.-
1160 Lavender
Advent Ridge
The first pitch of Freeway is the hardest, featuring well protected but difficult friction moves. Above this, Escher’s Rib
things ease considerably and the second pitch is little moOurdeafntehan scrambling between verySescopndaTcored bolts.
Tifina
Manzakuneen
Trick or Treat

An interesting mantelshelf move on the third pitch is easie11r6t0han it looks, before the roThuirdtTeorfinishes with a Amzkhssan Rib
final bolted slab in a superb setting. Freeway
Agadir Cefn Garw

Parking: Follow the road from Tafraout through the village of Tazka tpoartFkhouiernthegTonradreoaf. the tarmac. Continue Evening Wall
along the unsurfaced track to the last houses, where there is a large NW Buttress
Approach: Head south initially along a good track to some beehiveTsomob n the right-hand side. The track Central Slabs
bears right here, but it’s best to cut left across the stream bed to pick up a good cairned path on the east Wild Country
Tamayurt Rocks Black Peter
Infinity Ridge

(left) side of the stream. Follow this until it regains the stream directly opposite Freeway – it is then easy to Curved Ridge
cross the valley and scramble up to the start of the climb. Donkey Serenades
Tamayurt Tor
Angel’s Crest

Millennium Ridge

1. Freeway F4 2) 45m (F4) Runout pad1d16in8 g up bobbly granite. Belay at

120m. Enjoyable easy padding up the left side of the the right side of a cave.
3) 30m (F4-) Walk up right then mantel up the steep left
south face, with fine views from the summit, particularly at wall. Walk up, then to the right, to finishAmuaplutWhaell final bolted
sunset. Too easy to be called a sport route, Freeway is best slab. Descend by continuing up over the summit and down
described as an easy multi-pitch route with bolts: great for the northeast ridge.
rest days, kids and bimbles! The route and belays are fully
equipped, requiring 10 quickdraws. Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013.

1) 35m (F4) Start close to the arête at the left side of the
dome. A few tricky slab moves gain easier ground, then an
easy traverse leads up rightward to a belay.

Painted Tor 09
1146 
Painted Rocks

76 The Angel’s Crest | JEBEL EL KEST Map Page 8

Anergui Col Strategy: The route typically takes
8-10 hours, so it’s worth starting early
Walk over and travelling light.
summits to
Anergui Col

Anergui Lower Scrambling Easier climbing
Crag Follow easiest starts from large
line up front of
buttress terrace

A

Map page 8 Upper part of Severe start up
Anergui village lower ridge
LOWER CRAG

Angel Peak

South Col Summit of Upper Bold climbing –
Crag follow easiest
E
Anergui Upper line
Aspect: The entire route will be in the sunshine Crag Anergui Col
all day, so take plenty of water.Thankfully,
however, the high altitude means that it’s not as C
hot as many crags in the AmelnValley.
Walk left to end
Map page 8 of terrace

UPPER CRAG

Map page 8 Easy Scramble across
scrambling to gully on left
SUMMIT side of ridge

Crux step South Col
(exposed)
Descent down West Ridge – E
follow cairns carefully! Go up gully to
ledge on left wall

 Descent: For the full experience it is best to descend theWest Ridge Start on left wall Alternative
of gully descent from
to theWest Col.This is technically easy but requires care with route finding
– follow cairns carefully. Alternatively, reverse the South Ridge (tricky) and South Col
descend from the South Col. Both descents are notoriously difficult in the dark.

2047

Map Page 8 2121 Great Ramp JEBEL EL KEST | The Angel’s Crest 77
West Col
2169

NORTH PEAK

2343 TAGDICHT
BUTTRESS
West Ridge JEBEL EL KEST
2215
(AFA-N-TIMEZGADIWINE)
2375

ANERGUI SUMMIT Anergui Meadows E
2292 South
Anergui Path Ridge
South Col
Anergui
Canyon 2130

The Hairpins ANGEL PEAK

2236

ANERGUI 2100
UPPER CRAG 2000

N 2000 2113

1900 1800
1700

Parking: There is a large parking Long Crag C 1900
area right at the end of the road in Black Crag Pinnacle Anergui Col
Anergui village.
Approach: The SW Ridge comes Central PARKING 1800 ROUTE START
right down to the village, and is Buttress
EeAaSTsPilEyAKaccessed via the obvious gully Well Anergui 1794
on22i3t5s right-hand side. Lower Crag 1700

2200 Main Wall
2000
1900
1800
SW Ridge
P 1620 A

1700 Playground Crag GP-S92.0914.87507686331, GPS 29.77586,
-9.04377

1600 Anergui Mosque

19. THE2100 ANGEL’S CREST AREA MAP S 0:40 0:10 1600
page 8
JEBEL EL K20E00ST | See area map page 8 Great S1la5b00
1900 AdLvaevnetnRdiedrg14e00
1800 Escher’s Rib
This tremendous way to the highest point in the range has become a justifiably popular outing and is
one of the finest mountain days that Tafraout has to offer. None of the climbing is particularly difficult and Tifina 1300

many teams will move together or solo all but a few pitches on the Upper Crag. Even then, this is a full-day Manzakuneen1200
itinerary in a wild and remote mountain environment, for which an early start and some degree of fitness Trick or Treat
is required. The descent is particularly difficult to follow, and the route should be studied carefully. Amzkhssan Rib
Freeway 1100

19. The Angel’s Cre1s70t0 Difficult Cefn Garw
C) The Angel’s Crest (160m, Difficult) – Climb straight EveningWall
~3.5km. A superb link-up, providing a magnificent upwards from the end of the terrace oBnlueCsrStapegreinpg, sometimes NW Buttress
poorly protected terrain with large holds. Approximately 4 Central Slabs 1000
mountaineering day out to the 1h60i0ghest point in the range. Wild Country
The route is mostly walking, with 1t5h00ree long sections of A
climbing on which the grade can be varied as required. pitches to easier ground. Cheshire Cheese Black Peter
Tuhneavfiorisdta(balveosideactbiloen)spuitpchtoes‘Dairfeficthuelt1’h4i0na0 rtdheesAtun,epfrgopulielRoroawsdeecdtiboyns. D) Scramble up over the sumCmragits of the USppr.per Crag, thAennammer Infinity Ridge
The route starts right from the village, and is usually traverse the western slopes of Angel Peak. Bear right, Curved Ridge
completed in 6 to 10 hours from car to car.
A) The SW Ridge (300m, Severe / Difficult) – The Donkey Serenades
right-hand skyline of the Lower Crag has a couple of pitches
of Severe climbing at the start, which can be avoided ascending gradually to the South Col of Jebel el Kest. Angel’s Crest
(sometimes accidentally) by traversing in from a gully on E) The South Ridge (500m, Easy) – Start from the col at Millennium Ridge
the right. Above a large ledge the climbing becomes steadily
easier, eventually petering out into scrambling. the foot of the south ridge, scrambling up and traversing
B) From the summit of the Lower Crag the Upper Crag is left to a gully. Go up this to a cairned weakness in the left
clearly visible. Walk to a col at the foot of the Upper Crag wall. Climb the wall, trending up left into a groove system.
(Anergui Col), from where a grassy terrace leads leftwards Follow this to easier ground and walk across the face to
across the face. The next pitch of climbing starts from the another gully on the right. The way ahead looks uninviting,
left end of this terrace. but a narrow ledge traverses the left wall close to the top
of the gully. There is a tricky exposed step at the end, which
can be hard to spot in descent. From here, easier ground
leads up rightwards back towards the ridge and up to the
summit.

Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull, 2003 (SW Ridge.)

Steve & Katja Broadbent, 2013 (Angel’s Crest and South Ridge).

19

80 Mild Severe – Hard Severe

The author on the Window Cave Traverse pitch
of Pan’s Labyrinth Direct (HS) on the East Pillars
at Taskra. From a comfortable belay beneath
the Window Cave, climbers must teeter
rightwards here to gain steep climbing up the
right arête. (page 115).
Photo: Leanne Common

Mild Severe – Hard Severe 81

Pete Cawley making the crux step from the
pinnacle on Pinnacle Ridge (Severe), Prophet
Peak, belayed by Aeron Buchanan. After
approximately 500 metres of easy climbing,
this bold section is the highlight of one of the
valley’s best mountain routes (page 117).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

102 East Buttress | KSAR ROCK Map Page 8

Map page 8

0:10 KSAR ROCK | East Buttress

Scramble up Step slightly right  Descent: Continue over the summit and
to summit to finish up wild
descend on the north side, trending left to follow
overhanging flake, just a rake to the West Col. From here, the quickest way
right of steep part of down is to bear left and follow a small path between
the west face and Anammer Crags. An alternative
groove way cuts back right, traversing under the northern
slopes and back up to the East Col, from where it is
P6 possible to descend to the base of the climb.
4b
Strategy: Since the West Col descent is
Variation crack Move left into groove the easiest option, it’s preferable to carry
(VS 4b) everything up the climb.
Aspect: South facing with sunshine all
P5 Tricky wide crack day, although the high altitude means that
4a conditions are pleasant for much of the
Possible escape – scramble up season.
to summit from left end of ledge P4

Wide crack next to
window cave

Easy climbing up Direct variation – Grand Hotel (VS 5a)
square gully

P3 4a Continue steeply up right-hand side of buttress

Possible escape – walk down 4a 4a jamming crack up side wall
along terrace P2 Tricky move onto

superb rock pedestal

Belay on higher ledge

P1 Ledge at 15m
(poor belays)

35

Ksar Rock
Guesthouse

Anammer village

Tazka Agrdn

Ford KSAR ROCK | East Buttress 103

Map Page 8 Alksbt

p e r S a m a z a r Tamza River PAIsRlKiING ROUTE START

N Black Slabs
Pyramid
A f a n t i n z a rGPS 29.81270, 1500
East Buttress -9.06676

Azrol Aeromaine 1600 GPS 29.81025, West Col East Col
-9.06822

Azrol L’Modda Anammer Afantinzar Road East Buttress
(Ksar Rock) Ou-Magour Ksar Rock
Guesthouse
Anammer
Crags 35

tinzar P Grand Wall The Maison Am
Sanctuary Rouge
MIDDLE EAGLE Lower Eagle OBuxftotrredss
CRAG Crag P Well

n 1791
35. EAST BUTTRESS
AREA MAP SE 1:15 0:10
page 8
KSAR ROCK | See areUaPmPEaRpEpAGagLEe 8
Upper Eagle Crag CRAG

With a short approach, easy descent and some of Morocco’s best roadside trad climbing, Ksar Rock is
understandably one of th2e04m7 ost popular crags in the area, famed for its brilliant juggy holds and well-
protected routes on sunny south-facing walls.

The East Buttress is one of the only ‘long’ climbs on the crag, weaving its way up between the south and
Great Ramp
east faces via some excellent and varied pitches on perfect ro21c2k1. The route starts innocently enough with
a pleasant stepped slab to whet the appetite, before a testing jamming crack leads to an escape onto
the south face. The direct variation, Grand Hotel, goes straight up here via a desperate, steep move, but 2169

moving left into the square gully provides a neat and sensible solution to the difficulties. Above the gully, HoneycombButtress
a couple of tricky wide cracks step things up a bit before the final pitch up the infamous ‘Penthouse’ wall. South Ridge
Igiliz / Agouti
Tales of unprotected 4b climbing originate from a direct assault on the wall, but sensible teams will climb Sunset Boulevard
up leftwards into the steep groove, where protection calms the nerves. A final step right onto the unlikely- Northwest Face
looking overhanging flake makes for a spectacular finish. West Side Story
Sundowners

Parking: Park on the side of the main road, just next to the concrete track leading to Anammer village. Serengeti
Thunder Rib

Approach: Follow the track into Anammer village. The track ends at the Ksar Rock Guesthouse, the last Scrunchie
house on the left. Take a left turn immediately before the guesthouse, passing down an alleyway and Dragolo
under trees behind the houses. Turn left behind the highest building to reach the foot of East Buttress. Dragibus
Mojo

35. East Buttress Severe 4) 30m (-) Move left and go up the square gully on good Alabama Buttress
East Buttress

120m. A magnificent classic climb of great character, rock. Continue up the blocky groove above to a fine wide Lady X
crack next to a ‘window cave’on the right. Follow the wide Noah’s Ark
with some excellent and varied pitches. Numerous escape crack steeply to ledges.
routes make this a low-commitment route, although the 5) 15m (4a) Move right and climb another wide crack to Apollo
steep final pitch provides a tough challenge at this grade. large ledges. Dragon Ridge
The climb starts at the foot of a long slabby buttress on the 6) 15m (4b) From a high belay, move up left into the groove
right-hand side of the lowest rocks above the village. and follow this to where it narrows at a steepening. Step right Silverline
1) 20m (-) Climb easily up the pleasant stepped slab to a here to gain a hidden flake on the face, which provides an Sun Ribbon Arête
ledge at 15m. Continue up the steep wall above to a good exposed and intimidating finale in a magnificent position.
belay ledge. Snakehike
2) 20m (-) Go up walls and ledges to a fine pedestal belay Steve & Katja Broadbent, October 2007. Pan’s Labyrinth
Pinnacle Ridge
Dragonstone
Auld Lang Syne

overlooking the gully. Nearby Routes Aerobat (HVS) – p161
3) 20m (4a) The short jamming crack above the ledge Pour Manger (HVS) – p185
provides the first real difficulty of the route, and leads to a Noah’s Ark (HS) – p105
ledge on the crest of the buttress. Continue above, climbing Sahara (MVS) – p125
the right-hand side of the precipitous buttress to a large Jedi Groove (HVS) – p125 Pelez (E1) – p185
ledge beneath a significant steepening. Paladin (HVS) – p127 Solar Event (E1) – p195
Civilisation (HVS) – p127 Cannon Crack (E1) – p195
Great Eastern (VS) – p143

35

110 Sun Ribbon Arête | ROBIN HOOD ROCKS Map Page 4

Map page 4 P11 Superb wall to
Unlikely looking summit
PM 0:10 ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | The Bunny Ears move rightwards
onto Second P10
 Descent: There is some exposed climbing from the summit 4a
Slab
(end of pitch 11) along the ridge crest, for which ropes may still be P9
required. Start by down-climbing to a ramp on the right (southeast) First
side of the ridge and follow it down to a ledge system. Go along Slab
the ledge and continue along the exposed ridge beyond to reach
easier scrambling to the hillside. From here, descend leftwards into
the broad gully that runs down the north side of the crag, passing
between the Bunny Ears and the smaller buttress of Olympia.

P11 Very easy ground Summit Detail
along crest to
P10 Second final steep section
4a Slab
(pitch 9)
P9 Easy Pitch 7 Detail

First P7
Slab Pitch 7 – wall above 4a
P7 chockstone in notch
Major notch in 4a Traverse right
ridge, with possible (see detail) beneath bulge

escape left P6
Easy
P5
4a Block
Steep flakes
Knife-edge Small stance up wall above
arête P4 in niche chockstone

Second 4b Tree
overhang
First 4a Centenary
overhang Balcony

P3
P2

Walk left to Thin moves into 4b Block belay
shady belay on shallow groove P1 Stick to
ledge system
arête for best
climbing (bold)

Strategy: It is possible to leave bags at the Prominent Tricky pull into
base of the route and pick them up on the wide crack 4a crack
descent. Although this is a fairly long climb, (Britannia
the possibility of escape from the notch on Crack 4b) Start up
pitch 6 reduces the overall seriousness. blocks
Aspect: Southwest-facing at relatively low
altitude, Robin Hood Rocks has a reputation 41
for being one of the warmer crags in the
region, best saved for cooler days. Outlaw
Buttress

Map Page 4 1581 ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | SuTinssoRuirbabon Arête 111
Tizi Zougzane Amalou

1240

1297 1408 IghYearhmyaAit Summit of the
Bunny Ears

Olympia Olympia Roadside
Buttress Buttress Buttress
PARKING ROUTE START
Robin Sun Ribbon Arête Outlaw
Hood Buttress
Rocks

P1011 1316

PN AdkGhPs-S92.194.70330707, GPS 29.73130,
-9.13933
Dar Tanout

41. SUN RIBBON ARÊTEne AREA MAP SW 1261
page 4
ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | See area map page 4 0:40 0:10
Tignatin

The distinctive ‘Bunny Ears’ dominate the skyline of Robin Hood Rocks and are a justifiably popular
objective. Sun Ribbon Arête is not only the longest route on these otherwise single-pitch crags, but also
one of the most remarkable climbs in the region, combining a very short approach with some distinctly
alpine-style climbing and a proper summit experience.

The route has several crux sections that provide a variety of tough challenges, interspersed with large
stretches of very easy ground over which most teams will move together. Route-finding can be difficult,
and care is required to follow the correct line, particularly on the long fourth pitch and the final pitches to
the summit. Escape is possible from the top of pitches 1, 2 and 6.

Parking: There is ample roadside parking along the P1011 immediately west of Roadside Buttress.

Approach: A steep, eroded path leaves the road at a bend beneath Roadside Buttress. Follow this up the
left side of the crags, passing the left side of the small outcrop of Outlaw Buttress. Cut right above this
Honeycomb Buttress

along a short path to the start of the climb. South Ridge
Igiliz / Agouti

41. Sun Ribbon Arête Hard Severe 6) 40m (-) Walk along the ridge crest to belay in a major Sunset Boulevard
notch with large chockstones. The approach to Skyline Northwest Face
510m. The southwest ridge up to the Bunny Ears is an West Side Story

excellent climb with a distinctly alpine character. Although Buttress crosses the route at this point. Sundowners
the route is long, large sections of easy scrambling and 7) 35m (4a) Climb the wall beyond the chockstone, Serengeti
walking make it a non-serious outing on which many Thunder Rib
parties will move together. trending up left to blocks on a ledge. Step up onto a smooth Scrunchie
1) 35m (4a) Scramble up easy blocks to a pedestal, from ledge on the left, then move up right of the small overlaps Dragolo
where a good crack leads up through steeper ground. Follow to belay on easier ground. Dragibus
this to an excellent slab, and a fine bold finish up the crest of 8) 140m (-) Scrambling and walking along the ridge to
the arête. Block belay. Mojo
2) 25m (4b) Move left over blocks then go back up right
into a blank-looking groove, which is gained with difficulty Alabama Buttress
(crux). Follow the groove (bold at first) to an easy alpine-
style ridge leading to the Centenary Balcony. where it begins to steepen. East Buttress
3) 15m (-) Walk left along a shady ledge below the steep 9) 40m (-) Continue up to a small rib which leads up to First Lady X
buttress above.
4) 40m (4b) From the end of the ledge, climb up, moving Noah’s Ark
left onto a small nose. Continue up some stepped slabs, Slab. Enjoyable climbing up this gains a belay on the right. Apollo
passing the first overhang to reach the larger second 10) 25m (4a) Step left into a short groove, and make Dragon Ridge
overhang. Climb through this via a weakness on the left an unlikely-looking exit rightwards onto the front of the Silverline
side, making a difficult pull up rightwards onto the slab
above. (This overhang can also be overcome via a difficult Sun Ribbon Arête
crack through its widest part). Continue up pleasant slabs,
Second Slab. Go up this to a belay on the right of the highest Snakehike
ear. Pan’s Labyrinth
11) 20m (-) Pleasant climbing on good holds up the right Pinnacle Ridge
Dragonstone

side of the ear, finishing up a shallow groove to the summit. Auld Lang Syne
12) 80m (-) From the summit, continue along the ridge,
dropping down onto the right (south) side initially to
bypass a steep section. About 80m of very enjoyable ridge
scrambling gains the hillside.

Steve Broadbent & Elie Dekoninck, December 2008 (pitches 1&2).

Steve Broadbent & Sarah Pemberton, November 2012 (from the Chockstone Notch).

Steve & Katja Broadbent, October 2016 (pitches 3 to 6).

trending right to a belay in a niche on the arête.
5) 15m (4a) Go up the knife-edge arête to easy ground.
41

122 Mild Very Severe – Hard Very Severe

Lina and Dave Arthur on the upper section
of the magnificent Tower Ridge (VS) on the
west face of Afantztgult. This 450m adventure
features an exciting free-hanging abseil
from the Great Tower to gain some superb
and exposed climbing on the upper ridge.
(page 139).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Mild Very Severe – Hard Very Severe 123

Georgina Brooke enjoying tremendous
exposure on the White Arête pitch of Asendrar
Welcome (HVS). Few routes offer such
sustained steepness at this grade. (page 179).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

134 Event Horizon | ADRAR UMLIL 5 Map Page 8

Map page 8  Descent: To return to the base of

PM 1:00 UMLIL 5 | West Face the climb, scramble down off the back
(east) side of Tower 5 and turn right,
Wide crack following the Iffran path around the
4b south side of the Fifth Tower.
If you’ve approached via the Iffran path
P4 and left bags near the col, however, then
Steep, juggy it’s a quick descent via the Iffran path
climbing back toTassila.

4c Nearby Routes

Grassy gully South Ridge (S) – p85
Prominent white fin West Side Story (S) – p91
So Much for Sundowners (S) – p93
P3 Guillotine Direct (VS) – p133
Central Pillar (HVS) – p133
The Lion King (HVS) – p163

Steep flakes

4c Exposed moves
up left across

side wall

Belay in niche P2
5a

P1 Pull up right onto
tiny stance on
4a right wall

Climb gully
or rib

easy Scrambling
up gully

Strategy: If climbing another route on Adrar 55
Umlil it is best to approach via the Umlil path
and leave bags at the base. Aspect: The crag faces southwest and gets
If not, or if climbing another route on Adrar sunshine from late morning. Conditions are
Iffran or Adrar Asmit, consider approaching via generally good throughout the season, but it is
the Adrar Iffran path and leaving bags at the best avoided in poor weather.
top of the route – this permits a quick descent
toTassila via the Iffran path.

Amzkhssan P1900 Amzkhssan ADRAR UMLIL 5 | Event Horizon 135
Wall

1500 Amzkhssan

Map Page 8

Deepwell P PBastion PARKING ROUTE START
Pinnacles
Agard Imoul CreTvhaesseTBauntgtererisnse
N Adrar Asmit

Lower Buzzard
Crag

Tassila 1800
1700

1500
GPS 29.83628, GPS 29.82222,
Cascade 1600-9.01934-9.02001 Iffran Path
d’Iffni Adrar Umlil
U p p e r Ta s s i l l a Va lle y
190 Brokeback Tower 5
1800 Mountain
1700 East Buzzard 55
1600 Adrar UCmralgil
ADRAR IFFRAN
1500
Umlil Shepherd’s Cave 1777 Adrar Umlil BuTzozawrderSl2abs Crystal Adrar Umlil
Path Crag Dwellings Tower 1 Tower 4
1847 AdWraallrsUmlil
Brussels Arrow Rock Tower 3
Cliffs

White Dome Iffran Wild Boar Pass
ADRAR UMLIL Path BOAR PEAK

1849 Twin Towers 1910
Crag
3rd 1846 ADRAR ASMIT Gully at end of Umlil Path
Tower 1955 1900 Brussels Cliffs
1800
Staghorn Gully

Gully at end of 4th 1831
Brussels Cliffs Tower

5th 1821
Tower

AKIDA
NTINZAR PEAK)
1993
AREA MAP
55. EVENT HORIZON1900 page 8
1:00 1:00Tizi Ait Yftan
ADRAR AIYUR SW

ADRAR UMLIL, Tow2e06r0 5 | See area maREpD PpEAaKge 8 HIGH CRAG

From the ground, the han200g0 ing buttress up203w5 hich Event20H61orizon wends its way looks impossible to access and
even harder to climb. In fact, the moves from the first belay onto the upper buttress are only mildly traumatic,
and as height is gained the quality of this climb becomes increasingly apparent. Ramps, flakes, and grooves
oh’s HARRAM PEAK lead ever upwards, sustained but never desperate, until the route reaches a fine finale in the wide upper crack.
ss

2013

From the top, the connoisseur (who has left any excess gear on the Iffran path) will jog across the high pastures
for a route on the southwest face of Adrar Iffran, rounding off one of the best mountain days in the Anti-Atlas.
2200
2000
1900
Parking: Continue up the Amzkhssan road above the village of Amzkhssan, past large concrete drainage2200 Sahara
works and landslide defences. Just after this, the road swings right and there is a blind turning leading Jedi Groove
downhill on the left, sigJnEBeELdTIZtGoUITassila and Agrd I2m240oul. Follow this to the Cascade d’Iffni waterfall. Civilization

Paladin

RAR AWYIL Depending on the conditi2o29n8 of the Tassila Road it may be prudent to park at the waterfall and continue Left Ramp
2264 osAmnpapfolrlooptaa. cIrfkhti:nhTge2h29tea3rratTeizrcgaaukiPdloaiteisantuiionthngeaolroaigpdhpctr.ooPnaldecaihtsiofeontllaotkhweesnctaihtreeisnUpomotsltisolipbToaalgbedtichshtttoP,rawsusdchrtii2vc1a3eh3ccasestasfsratrosarfsrboTlmoascsktihltaeuvrrnoilliaandggena,erwextahsteo.reatthineyre is a Pink Lady
Guillotine Direct
Central Pillar
Event Horizon
High Sierra

bridge ju22s8t0 below Tassila village. From here it traverses up the hillside beneath Brussels Cliffs before Tower Ridge
ascending a short gully to a point directly beneath Tower 2. Flake Quake
AIffdrraanTrapgIfdafirtcahhnt, Great Eastern
An alternative approach can be made via the which leaves the road above Tassila village and Orange Rocket
ascends beneath the north and west faces of Mtoe aredao wchs the col between Umlil 5 and Adrar Main of Light
2100 Nutcracker
Asmit. It is possible to leave bags here, then dTaegdsicchet nd around the south side of Tower 5 to reach the route. Bolero
This approach permits the simplest descent toCraTgsassila, or further routes on Asmit or Iffran. Marble Arch
Scimitar Ridge
55. Event Horizon HVS 5a
exposed moves then follow to a belay up left in a small Electron
165m. The steep central buttress gives a superb and niche. Proton
Jungle Book
3) 30m (4c) Move left and climb up to slabby ground below FlightofthePhoenix
atmospheric climb of great character, which is consistent overhangs. Work right to gain a prominent steep flake Central Buttress
throughout and generally low in the grade. There are four which provides an airy way through the first overhang (it Multiple Pillars...
brilliantly steep and exposed pitches featuring excellent
Eagle’s Beak
is possible to avoid this via a traverse right under the fin of Aerobat
climbing on good rock. Start by scrambling up clean rock in white rock). At the top of the flake move right to a stance, The Lion King
the bed of the gully. then up steep ground to a good ledge. Gamma
1) 40m (4a) Start up the right-hand gully until it is possible
Crazy Mushrooms...
4) 40m (4c) Climb a grassy gully until a step right gains the WhiteTower
to step left onto the fin. Follow this to its top, then climb front face. Continue up the left side of the buttress, pulling Slot Machine
a steep crack on the right wall of the chimney to a small through several overhangs to a ledge below a wide crack. Great Ridge
ledge. Spacewalk
5) 35m (4b) The steep, wide crack provides a brilliant finale, Labyrinth Ridge
2) 20m (5a) Step left across the gully and traverse up left finishing up grooves and flakes on the final tower. Assendrar Welcome
to an exposed step left around the arête. Difficult and very
Steve Broadbent & Caroline Culwick, March 2011.

55

176 Labyrinth Ridge | AYLIM Map Page 8

Map page 8  Descent: Continue over the summit, then

AM 0:05 AYLIM | Labyrinth Ridge head southwest to the descent gully next to
FigTreeWall.This has a couple of short down-
Knight’s Peak 4a climbs, but abseiling should not be required in
dry conditions. At the bottom of the gully, keep
Summit E right (facing out) and descend a final steep wall
chimney on good holds. From here, a small path heads
through fig plantations to the Samazar Hairpins,
The Priest 5b / A0 which can be followed back to the car.
Work up 4a Bishop’s
leftward Tower
D 5a Crux wall

C Vegetated
4a alcove

The Grey Pillar

4b The Central Ribs
Chimney left Hidden pitch up short
of Grey Pillar crack from notch
The Watchtower
B
4b

Easy traverse
round left side of

tower
easy

Great Ridge of 4a Short steep move
Samazar (VS 5a) Very easy climbing along
Central easy
Strategy: This is one ofTafraout’s‘big’routes, Gully low-angled ridge
and an early start is advised.The first section up
to theWatchtower is very easy and teams usually A Bottom of Samazar
solo or simul-climb to save time. Hairpins
Aspect: The ridge is on the north side of the 81
mountain, but thanks to the low-angled terrain it
generally has sunshine throughout the morning.
Later in the day, the headwall often gives shade.

Fever 1296 1600
Canyon 1400

1200
12 Map Page 8 1300 AYLIM | Labyrinth Ridge 177

PS h a n g Gintrap Wall

PARKING r i - ROUTE START KnighLte’sftPWeaaWktearflal ll Bishop’s
IGILIZ Tower
La Foussaoun
1530 Tamdkrt Riverside
GP-SR92.i19g1.h7998t62W3W1,aatellrfall (Crag)Samazar
ast Peak SouGthP-SR92.i1d91.g79e915976, LabyGrrienatthRRiiddggee Hairpins Lower
1700
Samazar Hairpins The 1604 Gravel pits
600Pimple
Foussaoun
Sif Rock AYLIM
(Great Rock of Samazar)

Fig Tree 1708 P
Wall

N Fig Tree Wall
descent gully

81. LABYRINTH RIDGE Tagzene AREA MAP T1(NiT7za6ig8OzuenZearCi1fol:)40 0:05 Fouss
Gorge page 8 Wa
AYLIM | See area map page 8
1692
The Great Rock of Samazar, or Aylim to give it its correct title, is one of the most magnificent pieces of rock
t‘gicnarllaatkshdsaeeibc)A,ocanulnittmid-iAnbitt’t’l–shalsaeo. sbnIntagrirt.khIainenftgfdearercwiptd,atgwhredsitlsiohn.fIe8tt,’0hsm0eaocmrceseetmlstyrsoeietbsaelaseSyna(bdbmouUtawtthzwpeainrinpttVhtyeae-tlsrrhlmeoeymTs,kteoihantfehdgitiGosnzfgrpeecrpanohtixateRcilmlhoeencitksgyoit1tnhfo6gr9cot2lchiwmreusbrxdoipnoagiwdt,cnaihtn’etsdhsoetinthusealmttoimpfiltedahoteeple
oslcAPoTilfanpAinmtrcJpghkGebreei1Aoneis9tfLtar1gsuTs6oc:nfPtihTfroEhhTs:AtTaeteKhhfarrreeesea)co,iAsestutnnhaattter’isst-bmmAcoaltfaacilgatlkslhhsspiientycayer2croLaklT0iauriim0znbtoi8egyWbn.risapWisyny–lellathiomhaacecreRft.1aah6iotdc7een8gtdrSetctohhjhu.irsaesntgtbohuyetaaanysrrdodapnusautftfterototehlhmldeoiswtftorohotoephutrcetooearvfroa,itdtuahetntehedtSehaaiesstmoTdokpaaibegnzosvYadacifadorrzomiiuHrbzftasaeaeanifd-drrnypov(-gpiemnenesttott(uhpitnrewleegpo’tslahoctraaiskcttriTksndiA-sgolrGiaps.nAwtalsDyr1st)I9R.5T7E
Tizi Waylim Road PEAK

1800 Sahara
Jedi Groove
Civilization

Paladin
Left Ramp

81. Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a a variety of options, but feature some bold climbing on Pink Lady

Guillotine Direct

sostwndtassaimcAtcpBp8soihtoeulrnfiriori0seai)tfo)rocimmmilTedtfhcnentsltrvi0cAhTahutoiqceggtebmmhiohseueedmsroussi.eynidtenssiliotfWsaiEttatnt.reasogssaa.s.iiressgmetecyTaetolAnkcydoeAoarspatvusaeaovdame.nctnseojapttoeumphTpgcaefen8runtaediuhrtiteadh0tsgsba.odocstlemcisitll0eutmhhflnwTntheeigacimlhnettetnsipcaoerbrh-osftnegotti.mtrartmleetois,oedTieCwWofioenwafhotmerelopnwnpoigelcasnaiuntlissrneltnutthwhstt(sgichmocgmihrinacrieslhratlhnofceyreooiaaeebltcorm,imqswudwocolnnGictqmgiuhntwwwbmDaotpuiuaiemegtnmsitseoleiaa,wrhsbc,rlnptnoforlyttraihiepelidsaeihttfms.nonoaidmnozrewtgiesiInodgnsinltnmtodetaypsveAjadaeiouoattintoieiobgndsonnfnnssfsastnlrtofiittpdevt.oebslanigioaaer-oTniatfodognbfrlAnifhhalreotonuetfvtlettbheeaoelchteailstlcioeeafkshonileCsmdSfhdeshsuirweereoevnla.ofteeeteamnstenvhTlcbimlmrsl4nteatnhrsteegiaeowreegigrrtipnoaedkmneresaurggheilgerae,csatrroaaeaogiRseei)cboocmnnnbbsisih,ishuunuelotbatoglebeiofsettpnrtscaaouoehseursa,adfftor’ofasntoeronstfow2tetrfhrd0seeirsTizimCtbstiETpDabbwsaCttTgiSrsnWoorhtauthhgperueiea)eitg)wsoe)vsgiithlpaatcvapesseopehuSTsihrieTresyp&phnwnnelguonohroerraelaiKi.a,cduaassudiemndsaamTrttvtwefi.ci.t.gatddhenaatheehTjrTeTayltiwsiekoesre,ehhtlahneBspeenchmtawftibmedireekostfsuhosdalbtdawhiua.lefllecatewtelpeedroTcosahhisaivofb(uhflnnhtpnarcntAareeetmstnigredatblnynwsm0olpabostfpnrseu,otiomtmeatie.a&Fsi,naunmahnturneslanfcetearbtbltesta4ramtgfhurylolleevugtelcmicyenveoyendaueeo)ixkoeastfran.rg-tgcanllyo.tgretetcleoaeioo2deehanletamdl0tifhaselnegtm0da,B5efhtadsa8edattasnahih.cotbkirssicloettaeeewnhreceeeotdnptnaslsoofdaaitobtdeadwmphlattlaslcynwsokhi’ile(astnobidciTfeardngealoviTgwiehknnfeovleagmvgnal,eriaegw,eiaodicitunoolngasPhepfeieaovtvtnhreteamrrfeuieioch,atatinearrcrsewnfwebsoasaiklfaraidsaytoracaetyhlu)ebargiekfulrra.triipscdo-eccuotntTctiehlehhlunsohwnoe4saeirsntumiteof8fbbtnupmeooi2ghpk0octmioneprrmreltioamouctenspeeiolwumaertiwy,geyst.oeclsn5aieinlriapfjotyatabunursili,snotl,lxsd,el.ntao.rf, Central Pillar
1800 Event Horizon
1700 High Sierra
Tower Ridge
T a g a d i r t e P a s t u1600 Flake Quake
Great Eastern
Orange Rocket
Main of Light
Nutcracker

Bolero
Marble Arch
Scimitar Ridge

Electron
Proton
Jungle Book

Flight of the Phoenix

Central Buttress
Multiple Pillars...

Eagle’s Beak
Aerobat

The Lion King
Gamma

Crazy Mushrooms...
White Tower
Slot Machine
Great Ridge
Spacewalk

Labyrinth Ridge
Assendrar Welcome

81

180 E1 – E2

Will Benfold traversing the overhangs on the
remarkable final pitch of Voyager (E2) on the
southwest face of Adrar Iffran. (page 201).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

E1 – E2 181

Caroline Culwick on the first pitch of The
Marrakesh Express (E1) at Tramline Slabs. This
three-pitch climb is one of the most popular
extremes in the area, enjoying welcome shade
from the hot Moroccan sunshine (page 183).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

e Ass Map Page 8

202 Firesword | DRAGON BTaCUmrTagTgrRsstESS

DETAIL OF 1257 P4 Excellent final1600 Tizirt Ro
FIRST PITCH P1
5a Tizirt corner 1500
1400
Superb crack 4c Bold, thin flake 5b 1300P3
up side wall crack to black 1200
5a 1100
Difficult moves stain 5b 1000

5b 1445intcorasctkeep Steep climbing 5a Difficult, bold climbing
up left-hand 5b – work up right
4b fork of crack Wide!

37 IGILIZ
1378
P2 Brilliant 1530
hidden
belay
Easy Work rightwards Peak

Start in shady 96 suAapceGrrobsOsexUwpaoTlslIu–re East South Ridge

wild boar den 1490 NiccWreaewcstkidPeeak 1666 Samazar Hairpins
below rib Sif

Tizi-n-Tizirt 5a

Map page 8

PM 15m DRAGON BUTTRESS 1500 Groove up right
1400 onto front face
 Descent: The des1c3e0n0t is involved, but
1562
not unpleasant. From the summit, move
rightwards along the sharp summit ridge, Samazar Road Asner
past a steep and very exposed step. At the
end of the ridge, follow a vague cairned trail P1
down vegetated slopes to the west of the
north face. This trail swings right and passes 4c
close to the base of the north face just near Brilliant flake
wthTaealksl-tmainrttsootfrethaechrotuhteer.oFarodm. here, reverse the crack

1344 5a Nearby Routes TAJGA
Superb crack 1800
Strategy: Bags can be left at the base of the up side wall 1700Apollo (S) – p107 19
route, as the descent returns to this point. Dragon Ridge (S) – p107
Aspect: The wall faces northwest and will 1300 Dragolo (HS) – p99
be in the shade for much of the day, coming Dragibus (MS) – p99
tinhteoa1tfh2tee0r0snuonosnh.inTheidsumriankgesthDeramgiodndlReoocfk an 96 Difficult moves Dragonstone (HS) – p119
appealing venue in most conditions. into steep Electron (HVS) – p151
5b crack Proton (VS) – p151
1100 Jungle Book (HVS) – p153
Flight of the Phoenix (HVS) – p153
Brisingr (E1) – p187

1851 1800

z a rMap Page 8
m aAourir
1200 DRAGON BUTTRESS | Firesword 203

Ogogn
S aFiresword
1600 PARKING ROUTE START The Flatiron
1400
N Fanghur Low path
Dragon Buttress (good path)1200
oad 1100
West Buttress Fanghur
Buttress GPS 29.80166, GPS 29.80473, Gully AM

-9.11619 -9.11960 Knife edge ridge
scramble
DRAGON ROCK

P1296 Fanghur 1F7o2ll6ow cairns
Buttress
Small path via 96
Fever Fanghur Gully
Canyon

96. FIRESS hWa nOg rRi -DL a 1300 Descent path hugs
base of crag
TamdkDrtRAGON BUTTRESS | See area map page 8 Low path via houses

WCarWteaargflalolvl erviAeGRwpEaioAgnfeMt8tArhPaepnoWrtNahWlflace of Dragon Buttress

Left 1:40 0:15

e RTHTmsdshrehihhooigevleAaieecmrhsimdeYnkhtswe,yL,etoohtaeeItfrhcMfinaeosagretScpdab-hteafcvhlpfaekaemoteciosbrmlrillyanaoietcmozhrgbgvaamooeteaescrsngsnileh)deotidnDnetntlathuahwrgsrabaceyaogstklleahFfoylqfiaao–rnuteedefManPssRrottrwoniohoTetwmuzooceerhisogkorpptepde’cihnslniacel–hnltsnataoauofhndros,nrebuctusRt,ehlduorpwiimwgsahpohwthrieiabfgktet1fhsciiehn6nWvtnhiWrc0aefg.oieaha4tlTdalsntctoeg,elFreolytdlirigoprhf,fieeasewa.aevsltlodwlosiiohmnvnboueeeemrursndoer,itann,ypfucteitiarnhuchtegeklvelacosyatolfg’seisivrmntuiaewceecnbabsxhaglitpnalaelaqtagtwntiunlntpehauhsFdeteerRneohtrnitlo(zufseivhCekiafistetcegerempsratihloaresyifegoaeliorwdldpn)faitueneaietp.mncnueyet,reulneisi.sgpsusI,thtnishi’nstsole.ittotmIhhtfrni’oeseerescakoatokirmfpn,fetcadtaahlhrigeotamennofmmbidlffieiontochrseesstitns t Lowe
LabyGrrienatthRRiiddggee
s Gravel pits
1700
f Rock
(Great

Fig Tree that guides you upwards whilst keeping you guessing. Isolated on the headwall, the cracks dry up, the Marrakesh Express
Wall exp1o7s0u8re increases, and for the climber focusing on tiny finger edges, the rest of the world disappears into Pelez

a distant blur. A triumphant finish remains, before the route becomes nothing more than a memory – onFeousPsouBarriMsoinagnurgern
that grows and inspires for years to come.
Rock the Kasbah

Parking: Dragon Rock is best approached from the west via Tanalt and the Samazar Hairpins. At the Leaving Las Vegas
bottom of the hairpins, the road continues beneath the huge Waterfall Walls and descends further to a Golden Compass
Arhsimegpahapdtlrl-iohnstaagrcnefhdao:mrsTaih.dAneeofr.tePtecaarhrrtkehaoettwntshottreheoerapigmltehioftttnh-hhseea:rTrenehda,ernsesiedhtxewotrototofehtsaahtTnieaGwrepgeoalieaznyrcesgibttnserefeitacnocidtefyos. Tplblhoyewilfsoonivrse.etrhtyheevtaorgopuaodefprFeaaatnchgTh1(siT7hezaa6suicg8OrsrzoouGesmnuZsealetlyrChih,foewol)huhislilceshsidopenrotvhiedes
a short but sometimes very vegetated approach to the north face. 1692 Tizgut Crack
Solar Event
Cannon Crack

FouBraveheart

Great Corner
Voyager
Firesword

Game of Thrones

A better approach is to follow a good path heading north from the parking towards some small buildings. If I Sit Still...
Bowline
fT9caah6cr.iesFa.pitIrtatehitsshewlodeonnergsddceoerEnft2tdhhas5enbbdeFalaoynw.ghthuer Gn ourlltyh, ebausUtteerapnsitpeipr euonrfdtheTerfocaro3at)gga4zan0nmdedi(ns5lebdea)edCfilsinmaitrbeosl1uyte6npe9dpr2eltyfheuerpabtbhalecebkfiogtorctrtahhceek,rnteaotkuritnrhngwtthoeestthe Eros

ALT PEAK 170m. The golden face on the right side of the pillar gives lbeofltd-hlyaunpd,ftorrekn.TdAaintggtYhareadigztihorztptateoo-fanthl-aergcrealcekd,gsteeipnrtihgehTtcAoaGrnndAecDr.liAImRbTE PEAK
variation to this pitch traverses boldly left to climb the right-
916 one of the best routes in the Anti-Atlas – an audacious hand side of the arête, before a rising traverse up right1w9a5r7ds
climb with some bold positions. It is a notch harder than regains the normal route.
Bs1silrda)isbe6iwno0gnamrl,tl(hao5enfbdBr)irgsCitshlaiitnmr.gtTMbsri,zaauaitkpnWtehdtodaefiyoafsfllaiislcmommuwela1tltp6lmhot7eroi8esnvSeetec.htsino.uolperddtogeercsrta,ocbgkeaslaionynitnhtgheea 4) 30m (5b) Climb a steep flake-crack and continue up a
little higher up by a shallow groove right of a block. black stain to a short traverse rightwards into the corner
2) 40m (5a) Go up the groove, then move right into a wide chimney. Follow this with interest to the top.

Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne, January 2012.

crack. Trend rightwards above and climb cracks to a hidden
ledge andDtrweeabweljay.
96

T

212 INDEX Orientation Map Page 4

Lina Arthur on pitch 19 of the 35-pitch Millennium Ridge (HVD) on Upper
Prophet Peak. At 1500m in length, this is not only Tafraout’s longest
climb but also the ultimate low-grade mountain challenge (page 79).
Photo: Steve Broadbent