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Focusing on the longer, multi-pitch routes, this guidebook will suit climbers who seek a reliably good quality mountain day - It's aim is simply to get you to the crag, up the route, and back down without wasting hours hours getting lost. One hundred of the region's best and most significant climbs are described in superb detail, including 1:25k approach maps and annotated route topos. Whether you're a first time visitor, or making multiple return trips, this guide will help you find and enjoy the very best of Tafraout climbing.

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Published by The Oxford Alpine Club, 2019-11-18 05:51:40

100 Classic Climbs

Focusing on the longer, multi-pitch routes, this guidebook will suit climbers who seek a reliably good quality mountain day - It's aim is simply to get you to the crag, up the route, and back down without wasting hours hours getting lost. One hundred of the region's best and most significant climbs are described in superb detail, including 1:25k approach maps and annotated route topos. Whether you're a first time visitor, or making multiple return trips, this guide will help you find and enjoy the very best of Tafraout climbing.

Keywords: tafraout,climb tafraout,climbing in tafraout,climbing in morocco,morocco climbing,morocco rock

Orientation Map Page 4 INDEX 213

INDEX OF ROUTES Area Maps
p55
Advent Ridge VD Hairpin Slabs

Aerobat HVS 5a Ksar Rock p161 Other
p101 Guides
Alabama Buttress HS Akida

Amzkhssan Rib VD Amzkhssan Wall p59

Angel’s Crest Diff Jebel el Kest p77 Climate

Apollo HS Dragon Rock p107

Asendrar Welcome HVS 4c The Thumb p179 Getting
p121 There
Auld Lang Syne HS Adrar Umlil

Black Peter HVD Ighir Crags p69 Useful
p147 Info
Bolero F5c Eflodne

Bowline E2 5b Crag ND p209
p197 Places to
Braveheart E1 5a Fig Tree Wall p187 Stay

Brisingr E1 5b Dragon Rock

Cannon Crack E1 5b Ksar Rock p195 Wildlife
p63
Cefn Garw HVD Adrar Umlil

Central Buttress VS 4c Aylim p155 The
p133 Climbing
Central Pillar HVS 5a Adrar Iffran p67

Central Slabs VD Adrar Asmit

Civilization HVS 4c Ksar Rock p127 Things
p167 to Do
Crazy Mushrooms Ridge HVS 5b Babouche

Curved Ridge HVD Lower Eagle Crag p73 How to
p75 Use
Donkey Serenades HVD Lower Eagle Crag

Dragibus MS Dragon Rock p99

Dragolo HS Dragon Rock p99 Tick List
p107
Dragon Ridge Sev Dragon Rock

Dragonstone HS Dragon Rock p119

Eagle’s Beak HVS 4c Anergui Upper p159

East Buttress Sev Ksar Rock p103

Electron HVS 5b Dragon Rock p151

Eros E2 5b Greek Buttress p211
Escher’s Rib Diff
Hairpin Slabs p55

Evening Wall VD Adrar Umlil p63

Event Horizon HVS 5a Adrar Umlil p135

Firesword E2 5b Dragon Rock p203

Flake Quake HVS 5a Flake Quake Dome p141

Flight of the Phoenix HVS 4c Dragon Rock p153

Freeway F4 Tazka’s 2nd Dome p61
Game ofThrones E2 5a
Dragon Rock p205

Gamma HVS 5a Greek Buttress p165

Golden Compass E1 5b Adrar Umlil p191

Great Corner E1 5b Crag ND p199

Great Eastern VS 5a Ksar Rock p143

Great Ridge VS 5a Asgaour p173
Great Slab Diff
Crag N p51

Guillotine Direct VS 4c Adrar Iffran p133

High Sierra VS 5a High Sierra Dome p137

Honeycomb Buttress Sev Agouti p83

If I Sit StillToo Long... E2 5c Ksar Rock p207

Igiliz-Agouti Traverse MS Agouti p87

Ksar Rock in Afantinzar is home to some of the region’s best short multi-pitch
crag routes. Will Benfold on the steep crux of the popular Aerobat (HVS) on the

south face (page 161).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

214 INDEX Orientation Map Page 4

The White Tower above Tifghalt gives two of Tafraout’s best multi-pitch
crag routes. Teams climbing side by side on White Tower Original (HVS)
(left) and White Tower Direct (HVS) (right) (pages 169 and 171).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Orientation Map Page 4 INDEX 215

Infinity ridge Diff Tagdicht p71
p125 Area Maps
Jedi Groove HVS 4c Ksar Rock

Jungle Book HVS 5b Dragon Rock p153 Other
Guides
Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a Aylim p177
p105
Lady X HS Ksar Rock

Lavender VD Aguerd Cioch p53 Climate
p191
Leaving Las Vegas E1 5b Adrar Umlil

Left Ramp VS 4c Crag K p129 Getting
p163 There
Lion King HVS 5b Adrar Umlil

Main of Light HVS 5a Ighir Crags p145 Useful
Info
Manzakuneen VD Fig Tree Wall p57
p147
Marble Arch F6a+ Eflodne

Marrakesh Express E1 5a Tramline Slabs p183 Places to
p79 Stay
Millennium Ridge HVD Upper Prophet Peak

Mojo Sev Akida p101

Multiple Pillars of Pleasure HVS 5a Taskra p157 Wildlife

Noah’s Ark HS Ksar Rock p105

Northwest Face Sev Adrar Umlil p89 The
p147 Climbing
Nutcracker F5c Eflodne

NW Buttress F4 Eflodne p65 Things
p145 to Do
Orange Rocket VS 5a Ighir Crags

Paladin VS 4b Ksar Rock p127 How to
Use
Pan’s Labyrinth Direct HS Taskra East Pillars p115
p185
Pelez E1 5b Ksar Rock

Pink Lady VS 4c Lower Eagle Crag p131 Tick List
p117
Pinnacle Ridge Sev Prophet Peak

Pour Manger HVS 5b Ksar Rock p185

Proton VS 5a Dragon Rock p151

Rock the Kasbah E1 5b Adrar Umlil p189

Sahara MVS Ksar Rock p125

Scimitar Ridge VS 5a Safinah p149

Scrunchie Sev Hairpin Slabs p97

Serengeti Sev Aylim p95

Silverline / Sideburn HS Hairpin Slabs p109

Snakehike HS Hairpin Slabs p113

Solar Event E2 5c Ksar Rock p195

So Much for Sundowners Sev Adrar Umlil p93

South Ridge Sev Adrar Umlil p85

Spacewalk HVS 4c Tifghalt p175

Sun Ribbon Arête HS Robin Hood Rocks p111

Sunset Boulevard Sev Adrar Umlil p89

Thunder Rib Sev Aylim p95

Tifina VD Fig Tree Wall p57

Tizgut Crack E1 5b Tizgut Gorge p193

Tower Ridge Direct MVS 4b Afantztgult p139

Trick or Treat VD Amzkhssan Wall p59

Voyager E2 5b Adrar Iffran p201

West Side Story Sev Adrar Asmit p91

White Tower Direct HVS 5a Tifghalt p171

White Tower Original HVS 5a Tifghalt p169

Wild Country VD Adrar Asmit p67

High above Afantinzar on the shady walls of Lower Eagle Crag, Pink Lady (VS)
is Tafraout’s most popular multi-pitch climb. This photo shows a climber on the

top of the flake, approaching the crux on pitch 6 (page 131).
Photo: Ben Lister

216 OTHER GUIDEBOOKS Orientation Map Page 4

Oxford Alpine Club Guides

www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk

Rjukan | Selected Ice Climbs
A modern photo topo guide to 200 of the best roadside ice climbs in Norway's
famous Rjukan valley, including all of the popular climbing areas and full background
information.
Published 2017
ISBN: 978-0-9935486-4-2

Todra | Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge
Lying on the southern fringe of the High Atlas is one of Morocco's premier climbing
destinations – the magnificent Todra Gorge. Here, bathed in year-round sunshine, you
will find a climbing experience like few others: an enticing blend of sport, adventure,
and exotic culture...
2nd edition published 2017
ISBN: 978-0-9935486-3-5
Climb Tafraout | Moroccan Anti-Atlas
Morocco's Anti-Atlas mountains are a paradise of adventurous traditional climbing,
where winter sun, stunning scenery and an enchanting culture combine to create one
of the world's most exciting climbing destinations. This new guide includes 1500 of the
very best routes across the range.
Published 2017
ISBN: 978-0-9935486-2-8

Climb Tafraout | Tafraout Granite
The definitive guide to Tafraout’s granite cragging, detailing almost 250 routes from
single-pitch sport climbs to multi-pitch trad routes on the incredible granite domes
around Tafraout and Aguerd Oudad.
Published 2018
ISBN: 978-0-9935486-5-9

Setesdal | Ice Climbing in Norway’s Setesdal and Åseral Regions
Home to more than 150 superb icefalls, ranging from roadside top-ropes to full-on multi-
pitch adventures, the Setesdal region of southern Norway offers a serious alternative
to the busier Rjukan Valley. This pocket guide describes all the main routes and full
background information.
Published 2012
ISBN: 978-0-9567288-1-4

Tafraout Pocket Guides | 3 Volumes
Three handy pocket-sized guidebooks to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas mountains,
describing more than 1000 of the best rock climbs in the region.
Published 2014
ISBN: 978-0-9567288-5-2


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