Cogne | Selected Ice Climbs

COGNE

Selected Ice Climbs

1ST EDITION | By Steve Broadbent & Lina Arthur

Oxford Alpine Club

COGNE

Selected Ice Climbs

By Steve Broadbent & Lina Arthur

Published by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-00-4
©2019 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Oxford Alpine Club

Cartography by GeoGraphics
Some maps based on source data from openstreetmap.org

PLEASE READ THIS!
Ice climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The
areas described in this book include adventurous destinations that are not suitable for novice climbers except under the supervision of an
experienced guide. Climbing any of the routes described in this book will require relevant experience, skills and careful judgement, and the
authors and publisher accept no liability for any injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers or property whilst using this guidebook.
This guidebook is a collection of route information compiled in good faith, but some details remain unchecked and may therefore be
inaccurate. Users should not treat it as a replacement for good 'mountain sense'.
The inclusion of a climb in this guidebook does not guarantee that you have the right to access or climb it.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission
and acknowledgement of the publisher. The authors and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using
this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front cover photograph: Climbers on Di Fronte al Tradimento, Colonato Centrale (WI5+) in Valnontey, by Alastair Robertson.

Acknowledgements

As ever, production of this guidebook would not have been possible without the assistance of many people, and our thanks go to
everyone who has been involved in the project. Firstly, we must thank Tim Bateman for inspiring us to embark upon the guide in the first
place, and for his numerous contributions. Additional material was also provided by Alasdair Fulton, Alastair Robertson, Tony Moody,
Daniel Stephenson, John Spencer and Mark Radford, and we thank them all for their valuable contributions.
Of course we also owe huge gratitude to all of the pioneer climbers and previous guidebook writers who not only opened up this climbing
paradise to the world, but did such a great job in documenting their endeavours.
Finally, thanks to Katja Broadbent for her continued work as proofreader.
Steve Broadbent & Lina Arthur, October 2019



Overview Map Page 6 Contents | INTRODUCTION 5

CONTENTS 7 Contents
Area Map
Overview & Area Summaries 8 Overview
Introduction
Guidebook Philosophy 8 Intro
A Brief History
When to Visit 9 Grades
Getting to Cogne
Where to Stay 11 How to Use
Shops Suggested
Bars & Restaurants 11
Equipment Areas
Objective Dangers 13
Ice Conditions Cogne
Avalanches 15 Valley
Frozen Rivers Grauson
Hydro Plant Releases 15
Other Guidebooks & Maps Urtier
Grades 16
How to Use This Guidebook Lillaz
Recommended Venues and Routes 17 Valeille
The Climbing Areas: 17 East
Cogne Valley 17 Valeille
Vallon di Grauson 17 West
Vallon di Urtier 17 Valnontey
Lillaz Area East
Valeille East 18 Valnontey
Valeille West West
Valnontey East 19 Valsavarenche
Valnontey West East
Valsavarenche East 20 Valsavarenche
Valsavarenche West West
Le Pont 22 Le Pont
Valle di Rhêmes Upper Rhêmes
Valle di Rhêmes Lower 25 Upper
Route Index 37 Rhêmes
41 Lower
Unknown climber on the main pitch of 47
Tuborg (WI5) in Valeille. Page 8 9. 63 Index
Photo: Steve Broadbent 79
91
103
117
133
145
151
155

165

6 INTRODUCTION | Overview Overview Map Page 6

Etroubles Becca del Merlo
SS27
Contents Cogne Overview N SR28 Becca Conge 3237
Monte Faillere
Area Map 0 2km 4km 6km 8km 3061 Roisan 2914
Overview SR17
Morgex
Intro

La Salle

Grades Derby A5 SS26 Aosta  St-Marcel

How to Use E25 St-Nicolas St-Pierre

Suggested SR25 IntrodVilleneuve Aymavilles
Areas

Planaval SR24 SR47 COGNE VALLEY Pila
Valgrisenche SR23 25
Rhêmes-Saint- page
Cogne Georges GRAUSON page 37
Valley
Becca du Lac Vieyes
Grauson 3405
VALLE DI RHÊMES (Lower) page 155
Epinel

Urtier Cogne URTIER page 41

Grivola

Lillaz Chanavey Valsavarenche LE PONT page 145 VALSAVARENCHE page 117 3969 LILLAZ Lillaz
Bruil
Valeille Valnontey page
East
47 Torre Lavina
Valeille Sud
West
RHÊMES (Upper) page 151 VALNONTEY page 91 3308
Valnontey VALEILLE page 63
East Monte Taou Pont GRAN Torre del Gran
Blanc PARADISO San Pietro
Valnontey 3438 3692
West 4061

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche Alps Overview Bern Innsbruck Graz
West
SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA
Le Pont
N Bolzano SLOVENIA
Rhêmes
Upper Lyon  MONT Aosta Ljubljana
Zagreb
Rhêmes  Geneva BLANC
Lower Area covered by
this guidebook
Milan Venice CROATIA

 ITALY

FRANCE Turin ADRIATIC
Genoa SEA

Index

Overview Map Page 6 Overview | INTRODUCTION 7

OVERVIEW The climbing described in this guidebook is Contents
spread across several neighbouring valleys, all of
The Cogne valley is located on the edge of the which are easily reached from the popular bases Area Map
Gran Paradiso National Park, on the south side of of Cogne, Epinel, Valnontey, and Lillaz. Each area Overview
the Aosta Valley in the Italian Alps. has its own unique charm and character, ranging
Although superb ice climbing can be found from the hustle and bustle of the Lillaz cascades Intro
across the whole range, the high concentration to the majestic icefalls of Valeille and Valnontey,
of easily accessible routes in this particular area and the wild, remote alpine routes of Rhêmes, Grades
makes the Cogne region one of the most popular Grauson, and Urtier.
and well-known ice climbing destinations in the The various areas described in this guidebook are How to Use
world, with routes to suit most tastes and abilities. summarised in the table below:
Suggested
Area Summary Areas
Routes WI1-WI2
Valley or Area Map and Routes WI3
Introduction Routes WI4
Routes WI5

Routes WI6-WI7
Conditions
Popularity

1. COGNE VALLEY page 25 7 18 10 3 3 Esoteric and ephemeral icefalls on the wooded valley sides along the Cogne
SR47. Nearer to town are two very popular dry-tooling / mixed crags. Valley

2. VALLON DE GRAUSON page 37 1 2 3 0 0 A secluded high valley with a couple of magnificent and very remote Grauson
routes. Adventurous!

3. VALLON D'URTIER page 41 0 6 1 3 2 A very attractive and quiet valley. The approach is long, but follows a Urtier
good track and is worthwhile for some excellent remote routes.

4. LILLAZ AREA page 47 5 9 14 9 7 Easily accessible climbs within walking distance of the village, Lillaz
including some of the most popular climbs in the Alps.

5. VALEILLE (East) page 63 5 8 13 10 25 The showpiece of the region, the magnificent long icefalls of the lower Valeille
valley are among the best in the country. East

6. VALEILLE (West) page 79 3 10 17 2 0 The west side of the valley has a superb selection of easily accessible Valeille
ice climbs across the grade range. West

7. VALNONTEY (East) page 91 1 8 11 8 4 Reliable conditions see crowds gathering on the superb Patrì Valnontey
throughout the season, though other routes get much less traffic. East

8. VALNONTEY (West) page 103 1 10 11 9 1 Similar in character to Valeille West, these very popular routes get Valnontey
morning sunshine and are easily accessible from Valnontey. West

9. VALSAVARENCHE (East) page 117 3 6 12 9 32 The east side of Valsavarenche offers a variety of infrequently climbed Valsavarenche
icefalls and some of the hardest dry-tooling routes in the area.
East

10. VALSAVARENCHE (West) page 133 3 11 6 4 8 Very similar to the other side of the valley; the routes here form Valsavarenche
relatively infrequently and see little traffic. West

11. LE PONT page 145 0 3 5 0 0 Some excellent but very remote icefalls that see few ascents. A good Le Pont
choice when there's not much snow and conditions are thin elsewhere.

12. VALLE DI RHÊMES (Upper) page 151 0 5 4 0 0 Awesome, remote adventures with a serious feel. May be inaccessible Rhêmes
in deep snow, but offers reliable ice throughout the season. Upper

13. VALLE DI RHÊMES (Lower) page 155 1 8 7 6 3 A very attractive and peaceful valley offering a little bit of everything. Rhêmes
Walk-ins are short, but conditions can be variable. Lower

Index

8 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 6

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Cogne The impressive icefalls above the village of Lillaz create
Valley a lasting impression on a first visit to the Cogne valley.
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz INTRODUCTION Guidebook Philosophy

Valeille The resort of Cogne sits at 1534 metres on the Perhaps surprisingly, given Cogne's popularity,
East edge of Italy's Gran Paradiso National Park. As details of the ice climbs here have previously
Valeille well as being the cross-country skiing capital of been somewhat elusive. The area is covered by
West Aosta, with over 70 kilometres of ski trails, Cogne a comprehensive Italian guidebook (see page 18),
Valnontey is one of the world's great ice-climbing centres, and tourist information maps show the location
East attracting climbers from across the globe. Along of the icefalls, but deciphering this information is
Valnontey the steep valley walls an array of frozen waterfalls notoriously difficult, resulting in the majority of
West provide some of the very best and most accessible visitors following well-trodden trails to a relatively
Valsavarenche ice climbs in Europe, from single-pitch ice crags to small number of more well-known routes.
East famous multi-pitch cascades and massive alpine This guidebook does not attempt to provide a
Valsavarenche adventures. definitive or historical record of climbs in the
West It is on these icefalls that elite climbers have pushed region. Instead, the aim is to provide clear and
the sport to new levels, and for the last thirty years concise information to visiting climbers, helping
Le Pont the main valleys of Valeille and Valnontey have been them to choose a route to suit their requirements
home to some of the hardest ice climbs in the world. and locate the climb with the minimum of
Rhêmes These routes, and their well-publicised first ascents, difficulty. Detailed pitch-by-pitch descriptions
Upper helped put Cogne on the map, but it is the huge have generally been omitted, except when they
Rhêmes variety of mid-grade routes that draws the majority add important information, as they have limited
Lower of the town's visitors – climbers who come here to value once embarked upon an ice climb.
enjoy the superb variety of spectacular ice climbs, Symbols have been applied to each route to
Index most of which lie relatively close to the valley and indicate how reliably it forms, the method of
offer reliable ice conditions throughout the winter descent, and the type of protection required –
months. these are explained in detail on page 20.
Cheap flights and good road links, as well as
spectacular mountain scenery and a traditional
alpine charm, add to the resort's appeal, making
Cogne an ice-climbing destination not to be
missed.

Overview Map Page 6 INTRODUCTION 9

A Brief History Rudy Buccella in December 1994. Thin and poorly Contents
formed, this was the first climb in Italy to be given
Cogne and the Aosta Valley have a distinctive the grade of WI7, though in good conditions it has Area Map
regional identity resulting from the combination been ascended at WI4. Overview
of French and Italian influences over thousands of In the late 1990s, with word of Cogne's icefalls
years. Many inhabitants are bilingual in French and spreading, many notable climbers visited the area, Intro
Italian, and local places often have names in both including Mauro ‘Bubu’ Bole, Patrick Gabarrou,
languages. Steve Haston, Jean-Cristophe Lafaille, François Grades
Cogne itself lies on the historic trade route through Pallandre, and Stefano Righetti, as well as François
the Alps from Italy to the Iberian peninsula, and Damilano and Godefroy Perroux, who produced How to Use
was an important mining centre, particularly for another guidebook to Cogne, Cascades autour du
magnetite, from the time of the Romans until Mont Blanc: Tome 2. Suggested
1979 when the mines were closed. The remains of By now most of the icefalls in Cogne had been Areas
the Cogne-Colonna passenger funicular and the climbed, but the age of mixed climbing was
cableway that transported the mined material are just beginning. Revolutionary practices such as Cogne
still in evidence today. rehearsed moves, pre-placed gear, and dry tooling Valley
The Gran Paradiso area was for many years the allowed lines previously considered impossible to
private hunting ground of the Savoy and Italian be explored. Grauson
kings, so early mountaineers had to stay out of the British climber Steve Haston was at the forefront
way of the king’s hunting trips. In 1920, King Victor of the mixed revolution in Cogne. His 1997 Urtier
Emmanuel III donated the land to the nation and route Welcome to the Machine was the first M9 in
the Gran Paradiso National Park was established. Europe, soon followed by X Files (M9), which was Lillaz
Icefall climbing in the region emerged towards considered to be the hardest route in the world
the end of the 1970s, when local alpinists began until 2001. Valeille
to explore the main icefalls in the area. Around the Cogne's reputation for groundbreaking mixed East
same time, the rapid evolution of climbing gear, climbs was cemented with Haston's The Empire Valeille
particularly the development of curved axes, led to Strikes Back (M11) in 2001. This climb, featuring West
a rise in technical standards. multiple hard, mixed pitches in an alpine Valnontey
In the mid-1980s, Gian Carlo Grassi began environment, was a step above anything that had East
cataloguing the icefalls in the area. He once been done before. Valnontey
climbed more than 100 icefalls in a single season, These widely-reported ascents attracted other West
and his impressive list of first ascents includes Cold climbers operating in the upper leagues of mixed Valsavarenche
Couloir (WI4), Lillaz Gully (WI2) and many more. climbing to Cogne, and in 2001 Bubu Bole put up East
One of the most significant moments in the history another testpiece, Mission Impossible (M11). Valsavarenche
of ice climbing in Cogne was the first ascent of Since the turn of the millennium the popularity of West
Repentance Super (WI6) in 1989 by Grassi, François the icefalls in Cogne has continued to grow, and
Damilano, and Fulvio Conta. Local climbers at the two further guidebooks have been published. Le Pont
time viewed this as something of an invasion by In 2009 Mario Sertori highlighted the quality of
outsiders, and quickly responded with the first the Cogne icefalls by including some of the most Rhêmes
ascent of Di Fronte al Tradimento (WI5) which popular routes in Alpine Ice, his compendium of Upper
is directly opposite Repentance, and whose the best Alpine icefalls. Effimeri Barbagli, written by Rhêmes
name means ‘facing betrayal’. These two ascents Matteo Giglio, described a staggering 700+ icefalls Lower
constituted a substantial elevation of standards in in 23 geographic areas, showing just how many
the area, and marked the start of a new era of hard icefalls the area has to offer. Index
routes in the Italian Alps. Today, Cogne is one of Europe's main ice-climbing
After Grassi's untimely death in 1991, Aldo Cambiolo destinations, attracting climbers from all over
continued his cataloguing work, which culminated the world. Routes such as Repentance Super have
in 1994 with the publication of Diamanti di Cristallo, gone from being benchmark super-hard climbs,
Cogne's first ice climbing guidebook. It was also repeated only by elite climbers, to being popular
around this time that Ezio Marlier burst onto the classics which see multiple ascents every week
scene, where he has remained a leading figure during the winter season. This popularity is
ever since. During the early 1990s, Marlier pushed testament to the quality of the climbing here, and
ice climbing in Cogne to new levels of difficulty, a visit to Cogne remains as worthwhile today as at
particularly with his ascent of Cohésion Zero with any time in its illustrious history.

10 INTRODUCTION | Getting to Cogne Overview Map Page 6

SS27 MORGEX SR46
SS24 SARRE-AOSTA AOSTA ovest 411
SR47 AYMAVILLES - COGNE ST.PIERRE
ST.PIERRE - VILLENEUVE
Villefranche Nus Saint
 413 412 Vincent

Saint-Pierre AOSTA Saint A5 SR45
Aymavilles Marcel E25

Turn off motorway immediately after tunnel. 410 Verrès
Follow SR47 towards Aymavilles. Issogne

SR24 SR47 Cogne Valley Grauson
SR23
Valle di Rhêmes
Valsavarenche SR44
Valnontey
ValeilleCOGNE Urtier 409 Pont-Saint-
Martin

408

See overview map GRAN Area covered by
on page 6 PARADISO this guidebook

4061

Ceresole SP460 SS565 407 Ivrea
Reale Cuorgnè
406

404

i From Turin Airport Corio Rivarolo
Canavese
Leave the airport and follow the SP2/RA10 403 Caluso
towards Turin. Take the turn-off onto the SP460 SS26
Autostrade Tangenziale at junction 1, following A5
signs for E25/A5 Aosta. Continue on the A5 all E25
the way into the mountains. Just after passing
Aosta, take the turn-off for Aosta ovest and Saint- Cirie Turin Caselle
Pierre, then follow signs for SR47 Aymavilles. Airport
Volpano
Bussoleno
 A4

4 3 Leini

RA10

Condove 1 Settimo
San Antonio A55 Torinese

A32 TORINO
(TURIN)
Rivoli

Getting To Cogne N

0 4km 8km 12km 16km Orbassano Moncalieri Chieri

A55

Overview Map Page 6 Getting to Cogne | INTRODUCTION 11

The high valleys of Valeille, Valnontey, and Valsavarenche offer some Contents
of the most reliable ice climbing conditions in the Alps. John Hall on
the challenging steep ice of Thoule (WI3+) above Valnontey. Page 115. Area Map
Photo: John Spencer Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Cogne
Valley

Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz

WHEN TO VISIT Car Rental Valeille
Most visitors will choose to rent a car at Turin East
The Cogne region tends to enjoy some of the most airport, where many of the main car-hire
reliable ice conditions in the Alps, particularly companies have offices. The drive from the airport Valeille
higher up in Valeille and Valnontey. The season to Cogne takes approximately 1 hour 40 minutes West
generally starts in mid-December, when the town via the A5, Aosta, and Aymavilles. Snow chains are
holds its annual 'Ice Opening' festival, although mandatory in winter – most rentals will include Valnontey
conditions before Christmas can sometimes be snow chain hire, but this should be checked before East
quite thin and many cascades may not yet be fully reservation.
formed. Valnontey
January and February are generally considered West
to be the best months for climbing here, though
mid-season mini thaws can occur at any time It's worth noting that rental cars do not always Valsavarenche
throughout the winter during warmer years. come equipped with ice scrapers, which can be East
By March the days are longer but temperatures a problem on your first freezing morning in the
start to rise as the season draws to a close. valley. Valsavarenche
By Bus West
GETTING TO Cogne
A bus service runs twice daily from the Le Pont
The Cogne valley is situated on the edge of the ground floor of Turin airport to Aosta, taking
Gran Paradiso National Park, just south of the approximately 1.5 hours. From here it is possible to Rhêmes
Aosta Valley in northern Italy. Like most alpine get a local bus to Cogne. Upper
resorts, it is easily accessible from throughout
Europe. By Car Rhêmes
Lower
Flights
The nearest airport is Turin, to which frequent Many visitors come to Cogne by car from
cheap ski flights are available throughout the other alpine regions. The town is reached in
winter. approximately 1 hour 20 minutes from Chamonix,
50 minutes from Courmayeur, or 45 minutes from
Aosta.

Index

MARTIN ŽUMER CLIMBS SUPER DOMO (500 M, WI5, M5) ON THE EAST FACE OF CERRO DOMO BLANCO (2500 M, PATAGONIA) - PH. NEJC MARCIC

X-DREAM

The X-Dream is the only ice tool designed to adapt to every kind of
technical alpine terrain. We do it with a patented handle that allows
the climber to switch the angle from ice to dry. With four pick
configurations, two handle options and new head weights for cold and
brittle ice, the X-Dream is truly the most versatile ice tool on the
market. Best of all, it features the perfectly balanced swing that Cassin
tools are known for, making every move more secure.

www.camp.it

Overview Map Page 6 Where to Stay | INTRODUCTION 13

SR25 Villeneuve Aymavilles Contents
Area Map
Introd Overview

Cogne Overview SR24 SR47 COGNE VALLEY Pila Intro
SR23 25 Grades
0 2km 4km 6km 8km Rhêmes-St- page How to Use
Georges GRAUSON page 37 Suggested
N Valgrisenche Areas
Vieyes

VALLE DI RHÊMES (Lower) page 155 Epinel

URTIER page 41

LE PONT page 145 VALSAVARENCHE page 117 Grivola Cogne
3969
Chanavey Valsavarenche Valnontey LILLAZLpiallgaez47
Bruil

RHÊMES (Upper) page 151 VALNONTEY page 91
VALEILLE page 63
Monte Taou Pont GRAN Torre del Gran Cogne
Blanc PARADISO San Pietro Valley
3438 3692
4061 Grauson

Where to Stay relatively few amenities here, and the small village Urtier
shop has very limited opening hours, a handful of
Climbers usually choose accommodation in one bars provide adequate post-climb refreshments. Lillaz
of the four main villages around the head of Other than climbers, few tourists visit in the winter
the Cogne valley. It is beyond the scope of this months and prices can be somewhat lower than Valeille
book to provide details of individual hotels, as in Cogne itself. Recommended accommodation East
this information is now readily available online. includes the Hotel L'Arolla, the Residence Les
Instead, a brief overview of the main centres is Nigritelles, and the Hotel Odenzana. For climbers Valeille
offered below: on a more limited budget, several vacation rentals West
are available on Airbnb, and these provide some
Cogne of the best value accommodation in the valley. Valnontey
For climbers with their own transport, Cogne is East
well situated for accessing all of the climbing areas Valnontey
included in this book. Although there are few This is another important climbing centre, Valnontey
icefalls within walking distance, the trailheads for particularly for those without their own transport. West
Grauson, Valeille and Valnontey can all be reached The village has no real amenities, but the Hotel
in five or ten minutes by car. La Barme is perhaps Cogne's main climbers' hotel Valsavarenche
The town is a small resort by alpine standards, and a popular post-climb hang-out. East
but a selection of well-appointed hotels and
self-catering apartments cater for the mid to Valsavarenche
upper end of the market. With a good range of West
bars, restaurants, grocery stores, and sports shops
located in the centre of town, Cogne certainly Epinel Le Pont
boasts the largest concentration of amenities in Located on the SR47 below Cogne, the village
the area. of Epinel will suit climbers who don't mind Rhêmes
being a little bit 'away from the action'. The Upper
Lillaz village has limited amenities but for climbers
The peaceful village of Lillaz is located right at on a tight budget it can be a good place to find Rhêmes
the end of the SR47 Cogne valley road, at 1650m accommodation cheaper than in nearby Cogne. Lower
above sea level. It is a very popular destination for
ice climbers, having many hotels and apartments Other Locations Index
within walking distance of the Lillaz, Urtier, Accommodation is also available in the villages of
and Valeille climbing areas. Although there are Valsavarenche and Rhêmes-St-Georges, though
both of these are about an hour's drive from the
main climbing areas around Cogne.

14 INTRODUCTION | Shops, Bars & Restaurants Overview Map Page 6
The superb Monday Money (WI4)
Contents in Valnontey. Page 96.
Area Map
Overview Photo: Alasdair Fulton

Intro

Grades

How to Use
Suggested

Areas

Cogne
Valley
Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz
Valeille
East
Valeille
West
Valnontey
East
Valnontey
West
Valsavarenche
East
Valsavarenche
West
Le Pont
Rhêmes
Upper
Rhêmes
Lower

Index

Overview Map Page 6 Shops, Bars & Restaurants | INTRODUCTION 15

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

The town of Cogne during the late season thaw.

Cogne
Valley

Shops Bars & Restaurants Grauson

All of the amenities usually required on a climbing There are plenty of places to eat and drink around Urtier
trip can be found within the Cogne valley, Cogne, Lillaz and Valnontey. Most restaurants open
although opening times can be limited in the at 1900, though some of the bars are open for Lillaz
winter, particularly on Sundays. drinks all day.
Valeille
Food Shops Cogne East
There is a small supermarket in Cogne – Market The main climbers' bar is the Bar Licone in the Valeille
Rey, located just off the main street. This is centre of town, where you'll find a selection of West
normally open from 0745-1215 and 1500-1900, guidebooks, a conditions book, and usually a Valnontey
but is closed on Thursday afternoons and all day handful of climbers. The bar is open until midnight East
on Sunday. every day apart from Thursday (closed all day) and Valnontey
For fresh fruit and vegetables and a selection of serves excellent pizza from 7pm. West
local produce, head to La Maison du Gout on Via Al Tarabas on the south side of town is another
Bourgeois to the east of the town centre (open popular option for beer and pizza.
from 0800-1300 and 1500-1930 every day).
In Lillaz, a small minimarket sells basic essentials Lillaz Valsavarenche
but is usually closed in the evenings. For a decent restaurant meal, head to Hotel East
L'Arolla which is open to non-residents every day.
Climbing Shops The hotel also has a public bar. Valsavarenche
Two small sports shops in town provide a selection West
of outdoor gear. Le Paradis des Sport and Ezio
Sport are both located on the main street in the Bar Cascate, on the road to the Lillaz Cascate is a
centre of town. good spot for a post-climb beer, but closes at 1900. Le Pont

Other Shops Valnontey Rhêmes
Tucked away in the square by the church, the The climbers' bar in the Hotel La Barme is one of Upper
Montagne di Carta bookshop and cafe is well the top spots for post-climb refreshments, and
worth a visit for local maps, guidebooks, and a is well worth a visit to check out the Valnontey Rhêmes
wide range of literature. conditions reports book. The hotel also has a Lower
Handy items such as lighters, tools, tape, etc can restaurant open to non-residents.
be picked up at the hardware store located on Via Opposite the bridge in the centre of the village
Bourgeois just to the east of the town centre. the small La Clicca bar offers a friendly spot for an
afternoon drink but closes early in the winter.

Index

20 INTRODUCTION | How to Use Overview Map Page 6

Contents HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK Area Map on page XXX Topo header, showing
map reference, aspect
Area Map This guidebook describes the best and most SHADE 0:50 Loie
Overview popular climbing around the Cogne region, information and
broken down into 13 geographic areas or chapters. approximate walk-in time.
Intro These chapters are listed on convenient 'thumb
tabs' down the side of each page, making it easy to Mixed route,
Grades quickly flick to an area of interest. with white

How to Use Area Maps dashes
At the start of each chapter is an area map which
Suggested shows the location of each route in that chapter,
Areas along with parking spots and approach routes.
Main parking areas are annotated with a QR code
which can be scanned on a mobile phone to open Abseil Pure ice route,
a Google Maps location. descent with yellow

dashes

Cogne Route described in the Topos
Valley chapter, with route Every topo has a header showing the name of the
number and page sector, a page reference for the relevant area map,
Grauson reference. the aspect, and the approximate walk-in time. The
following symbols are used in the topo headers:
Urtier
This area sees little sunshine.
Lillaz
SHADE
Valeille
East Sunshine in the morning.

Valeille AM
West
Sunshine in the afternoon.
Valnontey
East PM

Valnontey QR Code – scan this Plenty of sunshine.
West with a mobile phone
to open the location in 0:05 Approximate approach time in minutes.
Valsavarenche
East Google Maps. Route lines are marked on photo topos as
accurately as possible, but bear in mind that lines
Valsavarenche Layout will vary depending on ice formation and should
West Where possible, climbs have been numbered and be treated as a rough guide only. The following
described from left to right. For the main valleys conventions are used on photo topos:
Le Pont of Valeille and Valnontey, this means that all of the
climbs working up the east side of the valley are 22 33 44 55 66
Rhêmes described first, followed by those coming back
Upper down the west side of the valley. Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4 Grade 5 Grade 6
In some cases (the Cogne valley, for example) this
Rhêmes approach does not work so well and climbs are (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed)
Lower instead described working up the valley from west
to east. In these cases, topos are annotated to
show which side of the valley they refer to. More information about the grading of routes can
be found on page 19.

Index

Overview Map Page 6 How to Use | INTRODUCTION 21

Route Descriptions Contents
Detailed route descriptions are not normally
required for ice routes, as formations will vary from Area Map
year to year. Brief descriptions are therefore given, Overview
providing sufficient information to help users to
select a route – once on the climb most people will Intro
be happy to follow their instincts!
A standard star rating is used to give an idea of the Grades
quality of each route in an average season, though
this will of course depend on the formation each How to Use
year.
The following symbols are used to provide Suggested
information about the protection, descent, and Areas
objective dangers for each route:
Protection Cogne
Valley
ICE Requires only ice screws for protection.
BOLTS Has bolts for protection. Grauson
MIXED Requires trad gear for protection.
Descent Urtier
Descend on foot.
ABSEIL Descend by abseil from trees. Lillaz
Descend by abseil from fixed anchors.
Valeille
ABSEIL East
Valeille
ABSEIL Descend by abseil from Abalakov threads. West
Formation Valnontey
Route forms readily / reliable conditions. East
Route rarely forms / unreliable conditions. Valnontey
Risks / Danger / Other West
Valsavarenche
! Danger of collapse. East
Valsavarenche
! High avalanche risk. West
! Other risk or danger.
Information unknown. Le Pont

UNCHECKED Rhêmes
Upper
Choosing a Venue Rhêmes
A summary is given on page 7 in order to assist in Lower
choosing a climbing venue.
Some recommendations for specific types of route Steve Broadbent enjoying steep ice on the first pitch of the
or conditions are also given on page 22. classic Candelabro del Coyote (WI4+) in Valeille. Page 89.
Photo: Lina Arthur
Index

24 COGNE VALLEY | Area Map Area Map Page 25

P

Contents 1. Cascata di Pondel page 26

Area Map P Ozein
Overview Pondel 2. Cascata di Sérignan page 26

Intro P 3. Cascata di Chevril page 26

Grades 8D

How to Use Sérignan

Suggested Chevril P 5. Cogli l'Attimo page 27 2600 POINTE DE LA
Areas P 6. Mephistic Ice page 27 2500 PIERRE
2653
7. Ice Girl page 27 2400

2300

2200
2100
2000

4. Placche di Chevril page 27 P POINTE DU
DRINE
Cogne P 9. Cascata di Vieyes page 28 11. Alpha Centauri 99 page 28 2663
Valley
12010100 16. Attenti a Quei Due page 29
Grauson Grand Bois
tunnel
Urtier
Cretazerva
Lillaz tunnel
Bligny
Valeille tunnel
East 227280900000 P 15. Moon page 29
Valeille 2600
West 2500 Vieyes
2400
23008. Cascata di Bligny page 28 P P
2200 P
5 Sylvenoire
2500
2400 4 Ronc P
2300 tunnel

1800 1902002010202000 La Pesse Lays 27C
1700 tunnel tunnel
L'Oursa
Valnontey 13104000 10. Cascata del Nomenon page 28 tunnel Sisoret P
East Sisoret
tunnel
27B 12. Parto Gemellare page 29
Valnontey
West 14. Fontana di Ymir page 29

Valsavarenche 13. L'Altra Faccia del Freney page 29
East
20002100 2200
Valsavarenche 5A Nomenon
West MONT FAVRET 2500
3173 Bivouac 24020300
Le Pont Gontier

Rhêmes POINTE DU Va l l o n du Trajo
Upper TRAJO
3127
Rhêmes
Lower 5D Col du Trajo

Vallon du
Index

GRIVOLETTA
3514

Area Map Page 25 Area Map | COGNE VALLEY 25

1. COGNE VALLEY Contents
Area Map
The Cogne Valley runs in a northwest-southeast direction from the village of Aymavilles in the Aosta Overview
Valley up to the high resort of Lillaz. Steep waterfalls on both sides of the valley freeze to give a
number of worthwhile ice routes, many of which are easily accessible from the main SR47 Cogne road. Intro
Unfortunately these routes come into condition much less frequently than other areas in this guide,
due to the relatively low altitude – the valley has a significant height gain from the Aosta Valley at Grades
approximately 800m to Cogne at 1550m above sea level. For this reason, most of the routes in this
chapter are only climbable in very cold winters, and some see few ascents. How to Use
The valley itself is narrow, steep-sided and heavily wooded, and identification of the routes can be Suggested
difficult when driving along the main road. Thankfully all the tunnels are named, and these can be
used as landmarks to aid navigation. Areas
With an equal spread of icefalls on both sides of the valley, routes are described working upstream
from Aymavilles to Cogne. To aid quick identification, each topo is annotated with a direction to Cogne Cogne
and Aosta to show which side of the valley it refers to. Valley
Parking along the busy road is limited, and the best spots are indicated on the map. Grauson

22 POINTE DE isson POINTE Urtier
2A TSAVANIS d'Arp FIORITO
Va l l o n Lillaz
1 2816 3260
30020920802070206020502040203000 Valeille
17. Couloir du Soleil page 30 East
n
19. Cascata di Arpisson page 30 POINTE Valeille
ARPISON 37-45. Gola di Moline page 35 West

3035 Valnontey
East
20. Dal Nulla page 30
P Valnontey
West
150016001700 18001900 P Epinel P Vallon de Grauso
Valsavarenche
2D East

18. Lacrime per Carla page 30 27-36. Moline Ice Wall page 34 Valsavarenche
P Crétaz 23 Gimillan West
26
Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

21-25. Crétaz Beach page 31 25 P Cogne Moline
P
26. Cascata di Buthier page 33 P Index

25A P

Buthier P

26 COGNE VALLEY | The Lower Valley Area Map Page 25

Contents The Lower Valley Area Map on page 25
Area Map
Overview Altitude: 1000-1500m Aspect: Various Approach: 0:01-0:40 SHADE 0:01 Cascata di Sérignan
In cold winters, the icefalls of the Cogne valley
Intro can provide some very accessible multi-pitch 2
Grades climbs, sometimes just minutes from the road.
How to Use Unfortunately, all the routes are at relatively low Aosta Cogne
Suggested altitude and good conditions are rare, with many
Areas routes forming only very occasionally. 2. Cascata di Sérignan WI2 ICE
Since these icefalls do not fall into natural 'areas'
Cogne or 'sectors', they are described here working up 150m. The easy-angled stream starts directly from the
Valley the valley from Aymavilles to Epinel.
Grauson Approach: The routes of the Cogne valley have
Urtier attractively short approaches, most of which
Lillaz are fairly obvious on a first visit. Parking along
the main road is limited, but the best spots are
shown on the overview map on page 25 – please
take care not to obstruct the road or access to
properties.

Area Map on page 25

AM 0:30 Cascata di Pondel

roadside but rarely forms. Descend to the right via Sérignan
and the 8D footpath.
Valeille
East Area Map on page 25

Valeille SHADE 0:01 Cascata di Chevril
West
1
Valnontey
East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes Cogne Aosta 3
Upper

Rhêmes 1. Cascata di Pondel WI4 ! ABSEIL ICE
Lower

180m. This impressive icefall is a conspicuous sight on the Aosta Cogne
opposite side of the valley when driving up to Cogne from
Aymavilles. The stream is an outflow from a hydroelectric 3. Cascata di Chevril WI3
scheme and large releases of water can occur without ICE

warning. Good conditions are rare, and the route is best 4 pitches. In good conditions this roadside icefall gives
avoided. a very worthwhile climb with a surprisingly remote feel.
Index Descend on foot to the right (south).

A.Cambiolo & P.Sartore, 1980.

Area Map Page 25 The Lower Valley | COGNE VALLEY 27

Area Map on page 25 Area Map on page 25 Contents

SHADE 0:15 Placche di Chevril SHADE 0:20 Ice Girl Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
4 7 Areas

Cogne Aosta Aosta Cogne

4. Placche di Chevril WI3 ABSEIL ICE 7. Ice Girl WI4 ABSEIL MIXED Cogne
Valley
300m. A very serious and poorly protected climb that 120m. This striking smear of ice is characterised by a
has seen few repeats, offering 6 pitches of thin ice. thin fringe at half height, which rarely forms completely. Grauson
1) The long ice wall gets progressively steeper to a
A.Cheraz & E.Marlier, 1992. Urtier

5. Cogli l'Attimo WI5 ABSEIL ICE vertical finish. Bolted belay in a niche below the rocky Lillaz
overhang.
3 pitches. Situated above the bridge at Chevril, this 2) A short free-standing column. If this is not formed, Valeille
attractive line rarely forms and sees few ascents. go up leftwards to overcome the difficult fringe, before East
Valeille
G.Maspes & S.Righetti, 1995. moving back right. Tree belay on the right-hand side. West

6. Mephistic Ice WI4 ABSEIL MIXED 3) Move back to the middle of the icefall and climb a
short free-standing pillar to a final ramp.
5 pitches. An impressive line that gives some fun
climbing when formed. Rock gear required for the lower M.Farina, M.Giglio, N.Meli & G.Mongilardi, 2009.
pitches.

F.Damilano & E.Marlier, 1999.

Valnontey
East

Area Map on page 25 Valnontey
West
SHADE 0:30 Cogli l'Attimo & Mephistic Ice

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

6

Index
5

46 LILLAZ | Area Map Area Map Page 46

Contents Costa del Pino Colonna 2800
5
Area Map 5 2700
Overview 2600
1. Cascata di Champlong page 48 2500
Intro
5C 2400
Grades
7 2300
How to Use
7A 2-21. Cascata di Lillaz page 50
Suggested 5D
Areas 2100
2000
Cogne 22-29. Lillaz Beach page 55
Valley P Champlong 1700
7
Grauson
Lillaz
Urtier
P
Lillaz
Caravan
Valeille park
East
Valeille P 14 12
West
Valnontey 15 1700
East
Valnontey Lac de Loie
West
Valsavarenche 2400 30-37. Loie page 56
East 2300 38-41. Lillaz Gully page 58
Valsavarenche 2200
West 2100
2000
Le Pont 1900
1800
Rhêmes 42-44. Candelone di Bella page 61
Upper
Rhêmes 2600
Lower 2500

2700 Va l e i l l e

Index 15 POINTE DE
ROSSIN

2947

Area Map Page 46 Area Map | LILLAZ 47

4. LILLAZ AREA Contents

The village of Lillaz sits at the end of the main road up the Cogne valley, at approximately 1600 metres Area Map
above sea level. As well as being the access point for the Vallon d'Urtier and the famous icefalls of Overview
Valeille, Lillaz is home to a number of excellent climbs ranging from the popular ice cragging on the
Cascata, to the infamously adventurous Lillaz Gully. Intro
Although there are only a relatively small number of routes here, they are amongst the most popular
icefalls in this guidebook, thanks to short approaches and reliable conditions. Indeed, the Cascata di Grades
Lillaz is reputedly the most popular ice climb in Italy, and has saved many an aborted day when other
objectives are precluded by poor ice conditions or high avalanche risk. How to Use
Approaches: Three main car parks serve the area and are shown on the map opposite. Approaches
are described in more detail on the relevant pages. Suggested
Areas

Cogne
Valley

Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz

Valeille
East

Valeille
West

Valnontey
East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

On the way into Lillaz, with the famous icefalls of Lau Bij, Index
Cascata di Loye and Lillaz Gully on the hillside beyond.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

48 LILLAZ | Champlong Area Map Page 46

Contents Champlong Area Map on page 46

Area Map Altitude: 1800m Aspect: Southeast Approach: 0:10 AM 0:10 Champlong
Overview
The long gully above Champlong provides some Number 7
Intro excellent climbing with a very short approach path
and straightforward descent. The main pitch is
Grades particularly impressive, though novice parties in 7
search of easy multi-pitch climbing can escape 7
How to Use below this to give a pleasant route that never
exceeds grade 2.
Suggested Approach: There is a large parking area on the
Areas main road in Champlong, from where the 5D
path runs alongside the stream. The path soon
heads steeply uphill away from the stream –
turn off here and enter the bed of the stream,
following this to the first pitch.

Cogne  Descent: Depending on how far you continue up the gully, Escape below
Valley main pitch
it is possible to descend down either side of the stream, using the
Grauson number 7 or 7A paths. From higher up, head left (west) to gain the Main pitch
7A (see map on page 46).
Urtier

Lillaz 1. Cascata di Champlong WI4 ICE

Valeille 300m. An excellent climb. The lower section freezes
East readily and provides extensive easy ice to gain the main
pitch. This carries a fair amount of water and needs to be
Valeille well frozen, though it is easy to escape from the start of
West the hard climbing. The route starts a short way above the
parking area with lots of low-angled ice.
Valnontey 1) 30m (WI2) The first real pitch is a very pleasant, wide
East icefall.
2) 45m (WI1) Very easy ice to a thin, slabby pitch.
Valnontey 3) 30m (WI2) The slabby groove gives a nice little pitch.
West Above this, there is approximately 80m of easy ground to
5D
Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

the main icefall.
4) 25m (WI2) Climb easily up to belay on either side of
the cigar.
Parking area 5) 25m (WI4) The impressive free-standing cigar can
in Champlong be quite difficult. Above this, the route continues up
numerous tricky steps.
village

Index H.Marguerettaz, 1980.

P

Area Map Page 46 Champlong | LILLAZ 49
Lina Arthur heading up to the crux
pitch of Cascata di Champlong (WI4) in Contents
thin conditions. Page 48. Area Map
Overview
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Intro

Grades

How to Use
Suggested

Areas

Cogne
Valley
Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz
Valeille
East
Valeille
West
Valnontey
East
Valnontey
West
Valsavarenche
East
Valsavarenche
West
Le Pont
Rhêmes
Upper
Rhêmes
Lower

Index

50 LILLAZ | Cascata di Lillaz Area Map Page 46

10 Summer Top out on footpath 13

climbing crag 10

Contents Alternative approach D. Upper Section page 53
to the Amphitheatre
(page 52) 13

Area Map P Footbridge Torrent d'Urtier
Overview

Intro 13 2. Lillaz Beach page 55
Large pay and Bridge in centre C. The Amphitheatre page 52
B. 2nd Pitch page 52
Grades display car park of village

Lillaz

How to Use Geology park 12

Suggested Follow south bank A. Lower Tier page 50 Gulliver (2nd pitch)
Areas of stream
12

Cogne Cascata di Lillaz PM 0:10 A. Lower Tier (Main Cascade)
Valley
Altitude: 1600m Aspect: South Approach: 0:10 - 0:30 The main Cascata di Lillaz waterfall is one of the
Grauson Above the village of Lillaz, the Torrent d'Urtier most frequently ascended ice routes in Italy,
provides numerous excellent ice pitches that can thanks to its proximity to the village.
Urtier either be climbed as individual 'crag routes', or Approach: Cross the bridge in the centre of
linked together as one multi-pitch route, referred Lillaz, then turn left down a narrow street to the
Lillaz to here as the Cascata. geology park. From here, the well-signposted
The stream is described here in four main path follows the south bank of the river to a
Valeille sections – climbers wishing to ascend the full viewing platform overlooking the main waterfall.
East height of the route can simply link together a Descend leftwards to access the frozen plunge
route from each of the sections. pool at the base of the routes.
Valeille Approach: Park in the large pay and display
West car park on the right-hand side on the way into Footbridge
Lillaz. The approach from here to each individual
Valnontey section is described in the relevant part of the Tourist trail
East text. Main
Cascade
Valnontey  Descent: From all of the lower sections it is possible to either
West Viewing
descend by abseil from bolted anchors, or walk off via the trails on platform
Valsavarenche either side of the stream (see map above). It is therefore easy to
East access or escape from any part of the Cascata.

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont Easy Start up left branch

Rhêmes 4
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Access to base
of main cascade

Index 2 Area Map on page 46

PM 0:10 Cascata di Lillaz | Lower Tier

Area Map Page 46 Cascata di Lillaz | LILLAZ 51

45m Area Map on page 46

PM 0:10 Cascata di Lillaz | Lower Tier Contents

35m Area Map
33m Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

6 7 Cogne
Valley

5 8 Grauson
4 9
3 Urtier

Lillaz

2. Cascata – The Easy Start WI2 ABSEIL ICE 7. Tooling Lillaz M8 ABSEIL BOLTS Valeille
East
3 pitches. The left-hand branch starts a short way below Stiff dry tooling up the steep right wall of the narrow gully.
the main cascade and provides a popular way up the Lower Valeille
Tier, especially when the main cascade is too wet. Three 8. Gulliver WI3 ABSEIL ICE West
short pitches with chain belays gain the pool at the top of
the main cascade. The pleasant curving gully leads to easier ground. This can Valnontey
be followed to a short vertical pitch above the tourist path. East
3. Hosepipe Wall WI4 ABSEIL BOLTS Alternatively, it is possible to walk up the tourist path and
climb the second pitch in isolation (topo below). Valnontey
The wall to the left of the amphitheatre is sometimes West
converted into an artificial ice wall, holding numerous lines 9. Tooling Icicle M8 ABSEIL BOLTS
around WI4 with bolted belays. Valsavarenche
Very steep climbing up the huge roof opposite the cascade. East

4. Cascata – Main Cascade WI3+ ABSEIL ICE Valsavarenche
West
2 pitches. A superb and very popular outing, whether Area Map on page 46
climbed as a route in its own right or as part of an ascent
of the whole stream. Numerous bolted anchors exist on PM 0:10 Gulliver (2nd pitch) Le Pont
the rocks on the left-hand side. Unfortunately the cascade
carries a lot of water and is rarely fully frozen – in wet Rhêmes
conditions the Easy Start is a worthwhile alternative. Upper

A.Cambiolo & P.Sartore, 1981. Rhêmes
Lower
5. Main Cascade (Right) WI3+ Bolted anchor high
ABSEIL ICE on left (ignore old

2 pitches. The right-hand side of the main cascade gives tat on tree)
another excellent route, with bolted belays.

A.Cambiolo & P.Sartore, 1981.

6. Chandelle de Lillaz WI4 ABSEIL ICE 8 One minute up from

The narrow gully provides some good, steep climbing, tourist path Index
followed by about 10m of scrambling to reach the anchor.

52 LILLAZ | Cascata di Lillaz Area Map Page 46

Contents PM 0:25 C. The Amphitheatre

Area Map Approximately 100m upstream from the
Overview footbridge is a broad cascade known as the
Amphitheatre, which provides some popular
Intro ice-cragging. All routes are about 20m in length
and feature bolted belays.
Grades Approach: Either approach via the initial pitches
of the Cascata, or walk up the path on either
How to Use side of the stream as shown on the map on the
previous page.

Suggested 11. Amphitheatre Far Left WI4 ABSEIL ICE
Areas
10 12. Amphitheatre Left-Hand WI4 ABSEIL ICE
Cogne Area Map on page 46
Valley 13. Roof Left-Hand M8 ABSEIL BOLTS
PM 0:15 Cascata di Lillaz | 2nd Cascade
14. Roof Right-Hand M8
ABSEIL BOLTS

Grauson PM 0:15 B. 2nd Cascade 15. Amphitheatre Central WI4+ ABSEIL ICE

Urtier An attractive waterfall below the footbridge, 16. Amphitheatre Direct WI4+ ABSEIL ICE
forming the second pitch of the Cascata.
Lillaz Approach: Best approached via the Easy Start or 17. Cascata – Pitch 3 WI2 ABSEIL ICE
Main Cascade (previous page). It can also be gained
Valeille on foot via the path up the south bank of the stream. 20m. The easiest line up the wide right-hand icefall
East provides the usual third pitch of the Cascata.
Valeille
West 10. Cascata – 2nd Cascade WI2+ ICE 18.Amphitheatre Right-Hand WI3 ABSEIL ICE
Valnontey
East 30m. A very pleasant pitch from the pool at the top of the 20m. The right-hand side of the broad icefall, to a bolted
Valnontey anchor under the huge boulder.
West main cascade up to the ravine below the footbridge. Above
this, it is a straightforward walk for approximately 100m 19. Candelino WI4+
along the frozen river to gain the Amphitheatre. ABSEIL ICE

Steep ice in the little groove to the right. Rarely forms.

Valsavarenche PM Area Map on page 46
East
0:25 Cascata di Lillaz | Amphitheatre
Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont 19

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Index 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
11

Area Map Page 46 Cascata di Lillaz | LILLAZ 53

0:30 D. The Upper Section 20. Cascata – LH Finish WI3 ICE Contents
Area Map
Although it sees far fewer climbers than the 3 pitches. The iced-up slabs give three superb pitches, Overview
more accessible pitches lower down, the upper usually tackled close to the rocks on the right-hand side
section of the Cascata gives some of the best where trees provide belay opportunities. Intro
climbing and completes a superb mid-grade ice
climb. 21. Cascata – Original Finish WI3 ! ICE Grades
Above the Amphitheatre, the route becomes
more committing as escape options are limited 3 pitches. The right-hand branch is the original finish How to Use
and it is hard to assess the condition of the ice. to this tremendous route, but is subject to spontaneous Suggested
This fact, combined with the possibility of water water releases (see warning below).
release from the sluice on the right-hand branch, 1) 50m (WI2) Magnificent climbing up the right-hand Areas
means that climbers should not continue side of the curving icefall. There is a bolted belay at
beyond the Amphitheatre without careful 35m, but the stance is uncomfortable and it is better to Cogne
consideration. continue to another bolted anchor at the top of the fall. Valley
Approach: Scramble over, under, and around 2) 30m (WI3) The main stream continues up a level gorge
the boulders at the top of the Amphitheatre to to the right (no easy escape). Instead, exit steeply up
gain the base of the long ice slabs above. leftwards, then follow slabby ice to a tree belay.
3) 30m (WI3) Move back right and finish up thin ice to
13 tree belays close to the number 13 footpath.

! WARNING A.Cambiolo & P.Sartore, 1981.

The flow in the Torrent d'Urtier is controlled as  Descent: Both variants of the upper section top out on the Grauson
part of a hydroelectric scheme, which can result Urtier
in sudden releases of water down the original number 13 footpath, which can be followed leftwards (west) back
finish (right-hand branch). down to Lillaz in approximately half an hour. See map on page 50.
Following consultation between climbers and
the hydro company, the left-hand branch is Area Map on page 46 Lillaz
sometimes artificially created to provide a safe
finish to one of Italy's most popular ice climbs. 0:30 Cascata di Lillaz | Upper Section Valeille
If the left-hand finish exists then do not East
attempt the right-hand branch!
If the left-hand alternative is not formed, Valeille
climbers choosing to venture up the right-hand West
stream do so at their own risk. Sluice releases
can occur without warning and are likely to have Valnontey
fatal consequences. East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Left branch 20 Rhêmes
not always Upper
21
formed
The Amphitheatre Rhêmes
(opposite page) Lower

17
Index

62 VALEILLE EAST | Area map Area Map Page 62

Contents Champlong

Area Map Lillaz
Overview
190018001700
Intro Caravan
2200 park P Take path 15 1-11. Lillaz Icefalls page 64
Grades 20002100 from car park
Footbridge 15 12
How to Use 16 Huge boulder 15B
12-24. Hard Ice Direct & Ricamo page 66
Suggested 2700 First dam
Areas 2600 25-38. Stella Artice page 68
2500 89-96. The Lower Valley page 88
Cogne 2400 Second dam
Valley
2300
Grauson
82-88. Porcellana page 87 15 39-41. Cold Couloir page 70
Urtier Va l l o n d e C h é s è r e
77-81. Gianduiotto by Night page 84
Lillaz Va l l o n d e M a q u e n e i l l e 42-47. Dry Queen page 71

Valeille 73-76. Equilibri Solari page 82
East
Valeille 15A
West Valeille

Valnontey 48-50. Arolla Area page 72
East
G ra n d Va l V a l l o n d e l ' A r o l l a Arolla Refuge
Valnontey
West 3200
3100
Valsavarenche 3000
East 2900

Valsavarenche 2800
West 2700
2600
Le Pont 2500
2400
Rhêmes 2300
Upper
Rhêmes 72. Eknaton page 81 Gola dei 51-56. Punta Cisetta | Left page 74
Lower 64-71. San Pietro page 80
C e l s us

i

Index
57-63. Punta Cisetta | Right page 77

Area Map Page 62 Area Map | VALEILLE EAST 63

5. VALEILLE EAST Contents

Area Map
Overview

Home to some of Cogne's most impressive and famous P Intro
icefalls, Valeille is an ice climber's dream. Not surprisingly
it is also one of the busiest ice climbing destinations in the Lillaz Grades
Alps, with popular routes seeing many ascents each day
throughout the winter season. Take path 15 How to Use
Frozen waterfalls litter both sides of this impressive P from car park Suggested
U-shaped glacial trough and, being at relatively high
altitude, most of them form readily and remain in 15B 15 Areas
condition throughout the winter.
Because there are so many climbs in Valeille, it is divided Footpath 15 – Trail to routes Cogne
here into two chapters. This first chapter (Valeille East) easiest way to on east side of Valley
describes icefalls on the left-hand side as you walk up the upper part of Grauson
valley from Lillaz. The following chapter (Valeille West) lower valley
describes routes working left to right back down the valley Urtier
opposite side of the valley. Page references between the
two chapters are shown on the area map so that you can Huge boulder Lillaz
quickly see which climbs are opposite each other. Valeille
Approaches: All sectors are reached from the car park
next to the caravan park on the south side of Lillaz, as East
shown on the map. From here, take the number 15 path, Valeille
initially on the east side of the valley. West
Valnontey
Stunning icefalls at the entrance to Valeille. L'Eau des Cristaux, È Tutto East
Relativo, Pattinaggio Artistico and Hard Ice in the Rock are amongst
dozens of world-class ice lines on the walls of this incredible valley.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Index

64 VALEILLE EAST | Lillaz Icefalls Area Map Page 62

Contents Lillaz Icefalls Area Map on page 62
Area Map
Overview Altitude: 1900m Aspect: Northwest Approach: 0:45 SHADE 0:45 Lillaz Icefalls

Intro With such stunning lines as Pattinaggio Artistico 3
and Hard Ice in the Rock, this line of cliffs 2
Grades dominates the village of Lillaz and is home
to some of the most impressive icefalls in the 1
How to Use Cogne region.
Suggested The cliffs face northwest and are in the shade
for most of the day. This fact, combined with the
Areas relatively high altitude, means that the icefalls
usually form fairly reliably.
Cogne Most routes are serious undertakings.
Valley Approach: The area lies immediately right of
Grauson Lillaz Gully (page 58). Park in the small car park
beyond the caravan park in Lillaz, from where
Urtier a good track leads up into the forest. Follow
the track past a couple of hairpin bends until it
leaves the forest close to a bridge. Stay on the
left (east) side of the river, from where the routes
are reached up scree / snow slopes.

Lillaz 1. Stalattite di Cristallo WI5 ABSEIL ICE

Valeille 40m. The excellent pillar gives a long pitch with a steep
East finish. There is a fixed anchor on the right-hand side.

Valeille A.Graffi & P.Mantovani, 1993.
West
2. Spada nella Roccia WI5 ABSEIL MIXED
Valnontey
East 2 pitches. The steep icefall above Stalattite di Cristallo is
climbed in two pitches, but rarely forms.
Valnontey
West P.Perona, R.Perrone & B.Robiu, 1996.

Valsavarenche 3. Ghiacciatori del Sud WI4+ ABSEIL ICE
East
60m. The shorter icefall to the right features some bold
Valsavarenche climbing on thin ice. It can either be climbed as one long
West pitch, or split into two.

Le Pont M.Becciu & M.Conti, 1996.

Rhêmes 4. L'Eau des Cristaux WI4 ABSEIL ICE
Upper
2 pitches. This is the broad icefall at the top of the
Rhêmes prominent snowy gully.
Lower
A.Cambiolo, P.Chiriotti, R.Invernizzi, S.Righetti & S.Ruzza, 1992.

5. Cristal Giusy WI3 ABSEIL ICE

50m. The right-hand side of the broad icefall gives some
sustained climbing.

M.Miceli, M.Pandolfi & C.Vetugno, 1991.

Index

Area Map Page 62 Lillaz Icefalls | VALEILLE EAST 65

6. È Tutto Relativo WI4 ABSEIL ICE 9. Fissure en Arc de Cercle M7 ABSEIL MIXED Contents
Area Map
4 pitches. A Cogne classic, and one of the most frequently 20m. A dry-tooling alternative to the first pitch of Sospiri Overview
climbed routes in the valley. Ibernati.
1) An easy ramp to a fixed belay on the left. Intro
2) Easy ground up rightwards to an anchor beneath a T.Clarasso, 2000.
large tree. Grades
3) The excellent free-standing pillar has a short vertical 10. Pattinaggio Artistico WI3 ICE
section to a fixed anchor on the left. How to Use
4) Continue up the easier stream to a tree anchor on the 5 pitches. A stunning and historic ice climb, following the Suggested
left side. left-hand of two dramatic icefalls that dominate the cliffs
above Lillaz. Although the base hardly ever fully forms, Areas
L.Borghesi, A.Cambiolo, G.Carlotti, P.Sartore & S.Scalet, 1990. this route accesses the fine upper gully by traversing in
from the left. It provides one of the most spectacular and Cogne
7. Negative Feeling WI4 ABSEIL MIXED popular routes of its grade in the Cogne region. Descend Valley
either by abseil, or on foot via the exit of È Tutto Relativo. Grauson
70m. Thin, mixed climbing up the wall to the left of
G.Grassi & N.Margaria, 1986. Urtier

Sospiri Ibernati. Does not always form. 11. Hard Ice in the Rock WI4 ! ICE Lillaz
Valeille
R.Clothier, B.Lilienthal, 1996. 8 pitches. The right-hand gully is perhaps even more
impressive than its neighbour, giving a magnificent but East
8. Sospiri Ibernati WI4 ABSEIL ICE relatively serious route with no fixed gear. It sees frequent Valeille
ascents, but is less popular than Pattinaggio Artistico. West
3 pitches. A local classic, which unfortunately forms Access from the left as for the previous route, continuing
relatively infrequently. A thin first pitch leads to the the traverse for 60m to a peg belay. From here, go around
impressive ice pillar. the arête and up a short corner to a bolted belay, from
where a 25m abseil gains the ice. There is approximately
A.Cambiolo, M.Mottini & R.Vittorangeli, 1996. 240m of excellent climbing, followed by two easy pitches
to the top. To descend, make a short abseil towards the
top of Pattinaggio Artistico and walk off or abseil as for
that route.

P. Bonzonnet, J.Garlon, G.Girodo, G.Grassi, N.Margaria & M.Philibert, 1986.

Valnontey
East

Valnontey
West

5 Valsavarenche
4 East

89 Valsavarenche
7 West
6
Le Pont

11 Rhêmes
10 Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Hard Ice in the Rock
Direct (next page)

Index

68 VALEILLE EAST | Stella Artice Area Map Page 62

Contents Stella Artice 25. Stella Artice WI5 ! ABSEIL ICE
Area Map
Overview Altitude: 1800m Aspect: West Approach: 0:45 200m. With easy access and reliable ice, this is one of

Intro The impressive line of cliffs continues, providing the best and most popular of Cogne's big, super-classic
yet more jaw-dropping climbs that have been grade 5 icefalls.
Grades at the forefront of ice climbing standards over 1) A long (60m) off-vertical pitch to a fixed anchor on the
the years. Even today, some of these lines still left side of the free-standing pillar.
How to Use rank amongst the hardest mixed climbs on the 2) The big free-standing pillar gives steep and often bold
Suggested planet. climbing, usually on its left side. There is an optional belay
Stella Artice is the most popular route here, and is at small trees on the left at 30m, or continue to a rock
Areas one of the great ice climbs of the Alps. anchor above.
Approach: Park in the small car park beyond the 3) Continue up the easy stream to the base of the next
Cogne caravan park in Lillaz, from where a good track pitch. There is a fixed anchor on the right-hand side of
Valley leads up into the forest. Follow the track past a the ice wall.
Grauson couple of hairpin bends until it leaves the forest 4) Go up the sustained upper wall to a bolted belay on
close to a bridge. Stay on the left (east) side of the right.
Urtier the river, and follow a small trail along the valley 5) Continue up the wall to the top.
floor beneath Hard Ice in the Rock and Ricamo. An alternative finish avoids the long final wall via the
Lillaz See map on page 62. stream to the right. Descend from Abalakov anchors.

E.Crudo, G.Grassi & S.Rossi, 1989.

26. Cubit Libre WI5 M7 ABSEIL MIXED

Area Map on page 62 40m. One of two bolted variations to the right of the
previous route.
SHADE 0:40 Stella Artice
C.Cubit, E.Marlier & V.Savin, 2004.

27. Les Invasions Barbares WI5 M6 ABSEIL MIXED

Valeille 40m. The right-hand bolted line.
East
C.Cubit, E.Marlier & V.Savin, 2004.
Valeille
West !

Valnontey !!
East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

25 26 27 29 30 31 35
28 32

Index

Area Map Page 62 Stella Artice | VALEILLE EAST 69

28. Inachevée Conception WI6 M6 ABSEIL MIXED 31. Le Sable Cassé M7 ABSEIL MIXED Contents

150m. An impressive line up the overhangs to the right 40m. A long single-pitch dry-tooling route that sees few Area Map
of Stella Artice. The route normally features some excellent ascents. Requires a selection of pegs and short ice screws. Overview
mixed climbing (bolts), but in some years forms fully to
give a difficult pure ice climb. May require a few pegs. 32. À la Memoire du Bouquetin WI5 ABSEIL ICE Intro

1) Climb two vertical walls to an ice anchor at the base of 100m. Two separate pitches that rarely form but are Grades
the overhang. worthwhile when in condition.
2) Either climb a series of vertical ice pillars to the fringe, How to Use
P.Perona & B.Rubiu, 1996.
Suggested
or go up overhanging rock (bolt and pegs). The next two lines are short, bolted mixed routes Areas
3) Make a horizontal traverse rightwards along the ledge just to the left of Azione Indecente (not shown on
to a fixed rock anchor. topo). Cogne
4) Either climb a short free-standing column, or go up Valley
overhanging rock (peg) to reach the ice. Continue to a peg 33. Medusa M4+ ABSEIL BOLTS
Grauson
belay on the right at the base of the next column. G.Bazzocchi, E.Bonino, H.Bonnel, N.Meli & G.Venturelli, 2013.
Urtier
5) A fine pitch up the free-standing column. The stream 34. L'Analfabeta M6+ ABSEIL BOLTS
above has no fixed gear, and most teams abseil off from Lillaz
this point. G.Bazzocchi, E.Bonino, H.Bonnel, N.Meli & G.Venturelli, 2013.
Valeille
G.Camus, F.Damilano & N.Martin-Jarrand, 1993. 35. Azione Indecente WI5 M6 ABSEIL MIXED East
Valeille
!29. The Empire Strikes Back WI6 M11 ABSEIL MIXED 25m. The attractive free-standing pillar. Requires ice West
screws and small to medium cams.
100m. The world's first M11 route is an exposed climb Valnontey
of exceptional difficulty. A selection of pegs and short ice F.Chenal, F.Elli, M.Farina & E.Marlier, 2004. East

screws is recommended. There are two more bolted lines just to the right Valnontey
(not shown on topo): West
S.Haston & L.Gouault, 2000.
Valsavarenche
30. Jedi Master WI5 M11 ABSEIL MIXED 36. Mosca Cieca M9 ABSEIL BOLTS East

100m. Another technical masterpiece, better equipped G.Bazzocchi, E.Bonino, H.Bonnel, N.Meli & G.Venturelli, 2013.

than the previous route. Short ice screws required. 37. Per Iniziare M7 ABSEIL BOLTS

S.Muir & M.McIlraith, 2005. G.Bazzocchi, E.Bonino, H.Bonnel, N.Meli & G.Venturelli, 2013.

38. Tchao Félix WI6 M7 ! ABSEIL MIXED

! 6 pitches. The steep, vague couloir to the left of Cold
Couloir features some thin ice and mixed climbing, but is
rarely in good condition. Numerous variations have been
recorded.

P.Allardin, F.Damilano & F.Pallandre, 1997.

Cold Couloir Valsavarenche
(next page) West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

38 39
Index

76 VALEILLE EAST | Punta Cissetta Area Map Page 62

Contents 57. Eyvia Dzalaille WI3 ABSEIL ICE

Area Map 80m. The left-hand side of the broad icefall, tucked away
Overview in Gola dei Celsius. Usually climbed in two pitches with an
ice screw belay.
Intro
A.Cambiolo, R.Lale 1992.
Grades
58. La Clessidra dei Celsius WI3 ABSEIL ICE
How to Use
80m. The central and most obvious line on the broad
Suggested icefall, climbed in two pitches with ice screw belays.
Areas
F.Conta, G.Grassi, S.Malaspine & S.Rossi, 1989.
Cogne
Valley 60 59. Artax WI4 ABSEIL ICE

Grauson 58 59 80m. Thin ice up the groove to the right, leading to a
57 nice column of ice at the top. Climbed as two pitches, with
Urtier an intermediate belay either on rock or ice. Descend by
abseil from the top of the previous route.
Lillaz
A.Cambiolo & R.Lale, 1992.
Valeille
East 60. 100° Gelato di Stagione WI2 ABSEIL ICE
Valeille
West Area Map on page 62 80m. This was Grassi's hundredth ice route of the
1988/89 season, following fat ice up the obvious broad
Valnontey PM 2:00 Gola dei Celsius wall. It is climbed in two pitches with ice screw belays,
East and descended either by abseil or by walking off to the
Area Map on page 62 right.
Valnontey
West PM 2:00 Punta Cissetta | Left F.Conta, G.Grassi, S.Malaspina & S.Rossi, 1989.

Valsavarenche La Befana 58 60
East (previous page)
23 Minutes
Valsavarenche Pour En Rire 56
West (previous page)

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper
Rhêmes
Lower

55
Index

Area Map Page 62 Punta Cissetta | VALEILLE EAST 77

61. Chiaro di Luna WI4 ABSEIL MIXED Contents

120m. Very thin and sustained climbing up the front of Area Map
the buttress. The route rarely forms and sees few ascents. Overview
A selection of trad gear, including pegs, is recommended.
Intro
G.Bazzocchi, A.Cambiolo, N.Meli & R.Vittorangeli, 2000.

The next two routes are located in the remote Grades
hidden gully to the right – an adventurous
location that sees few visitors...

62. Dai che ce la Fai WI3 ABSEIL ICE How to Use

100m. The left-hand icefall, climbed in two pitches with Suggested
ice screw belays. Areas

A.Cambiolo & R.Vittorangeli, 1997.

63. Ricomicio da 100 WI3 ABSEIL ICE 62 63

100m. The right-hand line, climbed in two pitches with
ice screw belays.
Cogne
A.Cambiolo & R.Vittorangeli, 1997. Valley

Grauson

Urtier

Area Map on page 62 Lillaz

PM 2:20 Punta Cissetta | Right Valeille
East
Routes
62 – 63 Valeille
West

Valnontey
East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

61

Index

158 VALLE DI RHÊMES LOWER | Chaudanne Area Map Page 154

Contents Chaudanne Approach: 0:30 14. Cascata dell'Entrelor Left WI3 ABSEIL ICE
Area Map
Overview Altitude: 1900m Aspect: West 100m. The left-hand side of the icefall is usually climbed

Intro Situated on the east side of the valley above in two long pitches between tree belays.
the village of Chaudanne, this prominent icefall
Grades was one of the first routes to be climbed in the S. De Leo & S. De Leo, 1981.
valley. It is popular with less experienced teams
How to Use thanks to its reliable ice, ease of access and low 15. Dell'Entrelor Centre WI3 ABSEIL ICE
Suggested objective danger – indeed this is a good place to
visit when the avalanche conditions render other 100m. The centre of the ice wall is marginally more
Areas icefalls too risky. difficult than the edges, but gives a good climb with two
The broad wall of ice can be climbed pretty very long pitches.
Cogne much anywhere, though ice screw belays will
Valley be required at most points as fixed equipment S. De Leo & S. De Leo, 1981.
Grauson is limited.
Approach: Park in the village square at 16. Dell'Entrelor Right WI3 ABSEIL ICE
Urtier Chaudanne, then continue on foot eastwards up
the road towards Broillat. Cross a bridge and go 100m. The easiest and most popular of the three
up the north (true right) bank of the stream to options.
reach the icefall. 1) Climb a short wall, then continue up the icy ramp to a
See map on page 154. peg belay on the right.
2) Move left and climb a vertical pitch to an ice screw
belay.
3) Move left again and go up the final ramp to a tree.

S. De Leo & S. De Leo, 1981.

17. Sogno Realizzato WI4 ICE

80m. The attractive icefall to the right of the previous
route gives an excellent climb, but does not form every
year. It features several free-standing columns and
a variety of old in-situ gear that will probably need
Lillaz replacing. Descend on foot to the south, or via a long
abseil down the route.
Valeille
East A.Cambiolo, A.Casalegno, E.Marlier & S.Mazza, 1988.

Valeille 50m 60m
West

Valnontey
East

Valnontey
West

Valsavarenche
East

Valsavarenche
West

Le Pont

Rhêmes 50m
Upper
17
Rhêmes 14 15 16
Lower

Area Map on page 154

Index PM 0:30 Chaudanne

East side

Area Map Page 154 Chanavey | VALLE DI RHÊMES LOWER 159

Chanavey Contents
Area Map
Altitude: 1800m Aspect: South / East Approach: 0:15 Overview

Two excellent columns of ice regularly form in Intro
a small amphitheatre on the east-facing slopes
above Chanavey. Grades
Approach: There is a large car park at the
ski centre in Chanavey. The route is accessed How to Use
straight up the hillside to the west.
See map on page 154.

18. Cascata per Andrea WI4 ABSEIL ICE Suggested
Areas
60m. The vertical column up the back of the little
amphitheatre very rarely touches down. Cogne
Valley
A.Cheraz & E.Marlier, 1989.
Grauson
18 19 19. Too Early WI6
Urtier
ABSEIL ICE
Lillaz
20 60m. When the main column is not fully formed it is
Valeille
possible to ascend via the thin strip of ice up the right- East
hand side. This leads to some thin ice and athletic moves Valeille
to gain the top of the original route. West
Valnontey
M.Giglio & A.Torretta, 2005. East
Valnontey
20. Chandelle Milena WI5 ABSEIL ICE West
Valsavarenche
60m. The splendid vertical column up the right-hand East
side of the amphitheatre can be climbed as one very long Valsavarenche
and sustained pitch, or split with a mid-height belay in West
a corner.

C.Fiou, E.Marlier & G.Maspes, 1990.

18 Le Pont
20

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Area Map on page 154 Index

PM 0:15 Chanavey

160 VALLE DI RHÊMES LOWER | The Central Valley Area Map Page 154

Contents The Central Valley Area Map on page 154

Area Map Altitude: 1800m Aspect: East Approach: 0:10-0:30 AM 0:20 Vampire
Overview
A fine selection of isolated icefalls around Carré 23
Intro and Melignon in the central part of the valley.
Approach: Routes 21 and 22 are easily reached 24
Grades from the parking area in Carré. Route 23 is best Area Map on page 154
approached from roadside parking just north of
How to Use Brenand, where a track turns off to the west and PM 0:10 Torrent de Money
crosses a bridge. Head south on the opposite
Suggested side of the river and continue along the track to 23
Areas gain the stream beneath the icefall. For routes 24 Area Map on page 154
to 26, park immediately south of the avalanche
tunnel. For Route 27, park by the road below AM 0:20 Above Carré
Melignon (there is no parking in the village
itself). See map on page 154.

Cogne 21. Quindi-Ci/Sei WI3 ABSEIL MIXED
Valley
200m. This line up the crags left of the Carré Couloir is
Grauson one of the easier mixed gullies in the Rhêmes valley.

Urtier M.Bernardi, M.Farina & R.Maquignaz, 2013.

Lillaz 22. Carré Couloir WI4 ! ABSEIL ICE

Valeille 250m. The slender gully is a local classic, giving fine
East climbing with very straightforward access. After a short
vertical wall at the start, several easier pitches lead to
Valeille a steep and sustained 60m pitch then an easier finish.
West Descent on foot is possible, but involved – an abseil from
Abalakov anchors is probably preferable.
Valnontey
East 23. Vampire WI5 ! ABSEIL ICE

Valnontey 50m. The eye-catching pillars. The upper column almost
West never touches down, and only the lower one is known to
have been climbed.
Valsavarenche
East E.Marlier & party, 1990's.

Valsavarenche 24. Tears of Rage WI3 ! ABSEIL ICE
West
100m. An excellent outing, and one of the more popular East side
Le Pont routes at this grade in the valley. The route is prone to
avalanche, so snow conditions should be assessed carefully
prior to an ascent. Three pitches with in-situ anchors.

L.Carli, R.Lale & S.Mazza, 1989.

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

21 22
Index

Area Map Page 154 The Central Valley | VALLE DI RHÊMES LOWER 161

Area Map on page 154 Area Map on page 154 Contents
Area Map
AM 0:20 Above Melignon AM 0:05 Champ Chevalier Overview

! Intro

Grades

27

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Champ Chevalier 28
tunnel

25. Fontana dei Desideri WI5 ! ABSEIL ICE

300m. The long, vertical icefall on the west side of Cogne
the valley above the Melignon avalanche tunnel is a Valley
magnificent classic climb, and one of the most sought-
after ascents in the valley. Old fixed belays are not always 28. Cascata di Champ Chevalier WI3 ICE Grauson

accessible, and ice anchors may be required throughout. 50m. An excellent roadside climb with easy access and a Urtier
straightforward descent. Park by the roadside just south
A.Cheraz & E.Marlier, 1990. of the Champ Chevalier tunnel. Lillaz

26. Cascata de Leo WI4 ! ABSEIL MIXED 1) 20m (WI3) The pillar of ice against the side of the Valeille
East
300m. The right-hand line is another superb climb. tunnel.
Some rock gear may be required in thin conditions. 2) 30m (WI2) A short walk gains a nice 30m pitch. Valeille
Continue up easy ice to a bridge, where a footpath leads West
S. De Leo & party, 1980s.
Valnontey
27. Cascata di Melignon WI3 ABSEIL ICE down leftwards to the road. East

80m. A pleasant, sunny icefall above the hamlet of Valnontey
Melignon that is relatively free from avalanche danger. West

A.Cambiolo & D.Lipari, 1980. Valsavarenche
East
Alternative descent on foot
from routes 25 and 26 Valsavarenche
(can be awkward) West

Le Pont

25 26

Rhêmes
Upper

Rhêmes
Lower

Melignon Area Map on page 154 Index
avalanche
AM 0:20 Above Melignon
tunnel

164 INDEX Overview Map Page 6
The valleys around Cogne have plenty to offer throughout the grade
Contents range, but for teams operating in the middle grades they provide
Area Map a paradise of easily accessible icefall climbing. Nigel Hooker on the
Overview first pitch of Parto Gemellare (WI4) in the Cogne Valley. Page 29.

Intro Photo: John Spencer

Grades

How to Use
Suggested

Areas

Cogne
Valley
Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz
Valeille
East
Valeille
West
Valnontey
East
Valnontey
West
Valsavarenche
East
Valsavarenche
West
Le Pont
Rhêmes
Upper
Rhêmes
Lower

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 165

Cascata del Casotto WI3 153

Cascata de Leo WI4 161 Contents

Cascata del Gran Paradiso WI3 148

Cascata del Guardaparco WI3 153 Area Map

Cascata dell’Alpe Pessey WI2 131 Overview

Cascata dell’Alpe Pila WI3 38

Cascata della Pazienza WI2 101 Intro

Cascata della Rassegnazione WI3 101

Cascata dell’Arolley Left WI4 149
149 Grades
Cascata dell’Arolley Right WI3

Cascata del Lauson WI3 115

Cascata dell’Entrelor Centre WI3 158 How to Use
158
Cascata dell’Entrelor Left WI3

Cascata dell’Entrelor Right WI3 158 Suggested
107 Areas
Cascata del l’Erfaulet WI4+

Cascata del Nomenon WI2 28

Cascata di Arolla WI2 72

Cascata di Arpisson WI2 30

Cascata di Bligny WI4 28

Cascata di Buthier WI2 33 Cogne
161 Valley
Cascata di Champ Chevalier WI3

Cascata di Champlong WI4 48

Cascata di Chantery WI5 156 Grauson
26
Cascata di Chevril WI3

Cascata di Doreire WI3 45
43 Urtier
Cascata di Ecouverney WI4

Cascata di Fenille WI4 142

Cascata di Fenilliaz WI2 88 Lillaz
152
Approaching the main pillar of Cascata di Goletta WI4
Cascata di Champlong (WI4) in Cascata di Grand Clapey WI2 126 Valeille
the Cogne Valley. Page 48. Cascata di Lillaz WI2-WI3+ 50 East
Photo: Lina Arthur Cascata di Loie WI3 56
Cascata di Melignon WI3
161 Valeille
Cascata di Molère WI5 142 West

Route Index Attenti a Quei Due WI2 29 Cascata di Pondel WI4 26 Valnontey
Attese Disattese WI5 118 Cascata di Pont WI4 East
009 M8+ 128 Azavatta WI4 84 Cascata di Pravieux WI3 146
23 Minutes pour en Rire WI3 75 Azione Indecente WI5 M6 69 Cascata di Rovenaud WI4 131
80° Folgorazione 89 WI5 74 Balcone sul Paradiso D10+ 130 Cascata di Sérignan WI2
100° Gelato di Stagione WI2 76 Ballad for a Gambler WI3 125 Cascata di Taverona WI3 120 Valnontey
Acheronte WI3 95 Baltica WI3 81 Cascata di Teré WI2 26 West
Ala di Destra WI3 80 Barracuda D6 31 Cascata di Vieyes WI4 42
Ala di Gelo WI3 80 Basic D6- 55 Cascata di Voo WI3 137 Valsavarenche
À la Memoire du Bouquetin WI5 69 Bass Generator M6 35 Cascata Isabella WI3 28 East
Albi WI3 152 Baywatch D5 31 Cascata – LH Finish WI3
Albyn Superstar WI3 M5 107 Beetroute Sausage WI4 35 Cascata Madonna delle Nevi 142 Valsavarenche
Alla Ricerca dell’Inutile WI4 81 Big Country Dreams WI4 35 Cascata – Main Cascade WI3+ 86 West
Alpha Centauri 99 WI3 28 Buccella-Marlier WI4 121 Cascata – Original Finish WI3
Amphitheatre Central WI4+ 52 Buon Compleanno WI4 111 Cascata per Andrea WI4 53
Amphitheatre Direct WI4+ 52 Candelabro del Coyote WI4+ 89 Cascata – Pitch 3 WI2
Amphitheatre Far Left WI4 52 Candelino WI4+ 52 Cascata – The Easy Start WI2 44 Le Pont
Amphitheatre Left-Hand WI4 52 Candelone di Bella WI4+ 61 Cascate dello Chabod WI4 51
Amphitheatre Right-Hand WI3 52 Candelone di Madonna 44 Chambre 110 WI6
Annick WI4 82 Candelone di Patrì WI4+ 95 Chandelier 53 Rhêmes
Anoressica WI5 119 Candelone di Pont WI5 134 Chandelle de la Valletta 1 WI4 159 Upper
Antares WI4 137 Candles in the Wind WI6 M8 67 Chandelle de la Valletta 2 WI4 52
Arbre Magique WI4 147 Captain Hook M10 128 Chandelle de la Valletta 3 WI5
Arian WI4+ 72 Carré Couloir WI4 160 Chandelle de la Valletta 4 WI5 51 Rhêmes
Artax WI4 76 Cascata – 2nd Cascade WI2+ 52 Chandelle de Lillaz WI4 131 Lower
Athina WI4 82 Cascata 1905 WI3 42 Chandelle Ibex WI5
121

44

94

94

94

94

51 Index
58

166 INDEX Overview Map Page 6
Steve Broadbent on the first pitch of Candelabro
Contents del Coyote (WI4+) in Valeille. Page 89.
Area Map
Overview Photo: Lina Arthur

Intro

Grades

How to Use
Suggested

Areas

Cogne
Valley
Grauson

Urtier

Lillaz
Valeille
East
Valeille
West
Valnontey
East
Valnontey
West
Valsavarenche
East
Valsavarenche
West
Le Pont
Rhêmes
Upper
Rhêmes
Lower

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 167

Chandelle Levure WI4 89 Freno a Mano M6 111 La Risposta WI4 85

Chandelle Milena WI5 159 Frigida WI3 80 L’Attico dei Supereroi D12 130 Contents

Chandelle Monique WI4+ 75 Gabarrou-Marlier WI6 121 Lau Bij Diretta WI5 56

Chemin des Tamboures WI4 125 Gallina WI3 162 Lau Bij Mixed Start WI5 M6 56 Area Map

Chiaro di Luna WI4 77 GCG 93 WI4 39 Lau Bij WI5 56 Overview

Chloe WI4 M6 39 Gelati WI5 M7 67 La Valse à Deux Manches WI4 M7 139

Ciao Simone WI5 107 Generation X M8+ 128 La Valse à Trois Manches WI5 M6 139 Intro

Cicciu Gallucciu WI5 93 Ghiacciatori del Sud WI4+ 64 L’Eau des Cristaux WI4 64

Ciliegina di Marzo WI4 149 Ghost Column WI5 156 Leer WI5 113
107 Left Crack D5 55 Grades
Coco Chanel WI4 82 Ghost Gully WI3

Cogli l’Attimo WI5 27 Gianduiotto by Night WI2+ 85 Left Slabs WI2+ 61

Cohésion Zero WI4 118 Gigolò M6 70 Legami WI5 119 How to Use
143 L’Envers du Mirroir M8 129
Cold Couloir WI4+ 70 Gola di Chevrère WI3-WI6

Colonnato Centrale WI4+ 97 Gouloctica WI3 141 Le Sable Cassé M7 69 Suggested
34 Les Cochons dans l’Espace M7 66 Areas
Come Dancing WI2+ 35 Grande Birra WI3 108 Les Compères WI7

Couloir des Folies WI3 140 Gran Val WI3+ 121

Couloir du Soleil WI3 30 Gran Val WI4 87 Les Dents Cassées M7 128

Coupé Money Right Variant WI5 99 Grazie Albino WI2 74 Les Dragonnes Abandonnées M7+ 128

Coupé Money WI4+ 99 Gulliver WI3 51 Les Invasions Barbares WI5 M6 68

Cristal Giusy WI3 64 Gusto di Scozia WI4 M6 97 Les Piolets Disparus WI2 71 Cogne
67 Levionaz Minigully WI2 125 Valley
Crollo di un Mito WI3 112 Hard Ice Direct WI6

Cubit Libre WI5 M7 68 Hard Ice in the Rock Dry WI5 M8 67 Lillaz Gully WI4 58

Cybersex WI5 119 Hard Ice in the Rock WI4 65 Little Turf M9 128 Grauson
87 Lupo Alberto WI4 162
Daianna WI4 107 Henninger WI4

Dai che ce la Fai WI3 77 Hey Joe WI4 39 Madness WI4 M6 129
44 Urtier
Daikiri WI4 107 Hollywood Life M8 128 Madonna 2

Dal Nulla WI3 30 Hosepipe Wall WI4 51 Madonna 6 44

Dani California D7 130 Ibex Gully WI4 58 Main Cascade (Right) WI3+ 51 Lillaz
27 Malika WI4 136
Dedica per Sara WI3 104 Ice Girl WI4

Desperation’s Seven M5 111 Ice No Thanks M7 6b 67 Mani di Fata WI4 81 Valeille
81 Ma Non Finisce Mai WI2 113 East
Diamanti di Ghiaccio WI3 143 Il Budello del Mambo WI4 94 Marceli-Marlier WI3 121

Di Fianco alla Leggenda WI3 96 Il Candelino di Patrì WI4

Di Fronte al Tradimento – 106 Il Candelino WI4 88 Medusa M4+ 69 Valeille

Di Fronte al Tradimento WI5 106 Il Fantasma di Ghiaccio WI4 122 Medusa WI4 M6 56 West

Dimensione Jonathan WI3 143 Il Grande Calimero WI4 74 Meeting 2000 WI5 101 Valnontey
89 Mephistic Ice WI4 East
Dio Li Fa... e Poi Li Accoppia WI4 M5 105 Il Mistomane WI3 112 Mercy’er D7- 27
55
Diretta Mixed WI5 M6 56 Il Sentiero dei Troll WI3

Direttissima WI5 95 Il Tubo WI6 162 Mikado WI5 121 Valnontey
69 Millennium Bug WI5 108 West
Disgrazia WI2 162 Inachevée Conception WI6 M6

Doccia Fredda WI5 93 Infinito Blu WI4 107 Mini Fleuve WI3 136
138 Valsavarenche
Doppio Rhum WI5 M8 70 Ingegneria WI4 115 Mission Impossible M11 99 East
139 Mistiria WI4+
Dry Queen WI5 M8 71 I Tre Conigli WI3 M6

Due Media Birra WI3 34 I Tre Porcellini WI5 120 Monday Money WI4 96 Valsavarenche
69 Moon WI4 29 West
Edelweiss WI5 M7 56 Jedi Master WI5 M11 137 Mosca Cieca M9

Eknaton WI5 81 Jour Blanc WI4 69

Equilibri Solari WI4 82 Kekko lo Stambekko D6 130 Movimento Sexy D8 130 Le Pont
129 Negative Feeling WI4 65
Étoiles et Soleil Diretta WI5 71 Kezako DX M5

Étoiles et Soleil WI5 71 Kezako SX M4 129 Never Say Never M8+ 128 Rhêmes
75 Nivolet’s Gully WI2 134 Upper
È Tutto Relativo WI4 65 La Befana WI3 76 No Big M10 138

Eyvia Dzalaille WI3 76 La Clessidra dei Celsius WI3

Fallo di Plutone WI4 99 La Combassa WI3 153 No Place for Ladies Tonight WI4 157 Rhêmes

Fantasia WI4 152 Lacrime dei Supereroi D13 130 Oceano Polare WI3 39 Lower

Fine Fenille WI5 119 Lacrime di Sangue D11+ 130 Orsa Minore WI3 139

Fissure en Arc de Cercle M7 65 Lacrime per Carla WI3 30 Où en Sommes-Nous WI4 119

Fiumana di Money WI3+ 97 La Favola di Alice M7 93 Panaché on the Rock M6+ 66

Flash Estivo WI3 97 L’Ago di Money WI4 96 Paola al Prezzemolo WI3 125

Folies Valdôtaines WI5 140 L’Altra Faccia del Freney WI3 29 Papi-Racha WI3 153

Fontana dei Desideri WI5 161 L’Amour Retrouvé WI4 111 Papy e Mamy WI3 95

Fontana di Ymir WI3 29 L’Analfabeta M6+ 69 Pareri Contrastanti WI3 85 Index
142 Parto Gemellare WI4 29
Freezer WI3 43 La Regina di Fenille WI5

168 INDEX Overview Map Page 6

Contents Passepartout WI3 87 A busy day on the lower tier of
Patrì Gauche WI4 94 Cascata di Lillaz, Page 50.
Area Map Pattinaggio Artistico Direct WI5+ 66 Photo: John Spencer
Overview Pattinaggio Artistico Dry M6 66
Pattinaggio Artistico WI3 65 69 Unnamed M3 35
Intro Pellegrinaggio a Lourdes WI4 152 160 Unnamed WI3 61
Per Elena WI4 121 35 Uno Media Birra (Centre) WI3 34
Grades Per Iniziare M7 69 69 Uno Media Birra (Left) WI3 34
Per un Amico WI3 88 67 Uno Media Birra (Right) WI3 34
How to Use Piccola Lella WI2 72 113 Un Po’di Ghiaccio Per Favore WI3 43
Placche di Chevril WI3 27 115 Un Serpente per Anouk WI4 107
Suggested Placche di Rovenaud WI4-WI5 121 159 Vacance Fenillette WI3 142
Areas Pole Position WI3 45 51 Valmiana WI3+ 112
Pont Gully WI4 146 51 Vampire WI5 160
Cogne Power Band M6 35 87 Vega WI2 137
Valley Prima WI2 56 55 Vello del Cinghiale WI3 86
Puglia Holiday WI5 M8 95 34 Vertical Limit D5- 55
Grauson Pyma M9+ 128 34 Vertigine di Porcellana WI4 87
Quattro Media Birra (Left) WI3 34 122 Vibrazioni Solari WI4 118
Urtier Quattro Media Birra (Right) WI3 34 122 Vivi Gully WI3 112
Quindi-Ci/Sei WI3 160 163 Voglia di Tenerezza WI3 101
Lillaz Rampa M6 128 136 Voglie Effimere WI3 104
Rampilonga by Night WI5 162 138 Voli di Fenilliaz WI2 88
Valeille Rattle Rattle WI4 153 89 Welcome to the Machine M9 128
East Reef D6- 31 67 White Drives M7+ 129
Valeille Repentance Super WI6 96 35 W la Figa D6+ 130
West Ricamo WI5 67 134 X Come Fragile WI3 58
Valnontey Ricomicio da 100 WI3 77 130 Y Couloir WI3 140
East Right Crack D5 55
Valnontey Rocco Barocco WI5 138
West Roof Left-Hand M8 52
Valsavarenche Roof Right-Hand M8 52
East Saint-Ours WI6 M6 141
Valsavarenche Salsa du Soleil WI5 M9 71
West Salta la Guida WI2 38
Sauvignon Blanc WI4 34
Le Pont S’Encorder C’est Sauter WI4 M5 6a 141 Tchao Félix WI6 M7
Sentinel Ice WI5 93 Tears of Rage WI3
Rhêmes Senza Nome WI3 120 Techno Head M5
Upper Shark D6 31 The Empire Strikes Back WI6 M11
Rhêmes Sigaro della Sorgente WI4 126 The X Files WI5 M9+
Lower Slab D4 55 Thoulette WI4
Sogno di Patagonia WI4+ 111 Thoule WI3+
Index Sogno di uno Gnomo M5 105 Too Early WI6
Sogno Ibernante WI4 104 Tooling Icicle M8
Sogno Realizzato WI4 158 Tooling Lillaz M8
Sospiri Ibernati WI4 65 Trafic WI4+
Sottigliezze Vetrate WI3 84 Traverse D6
Spada nella Roccia WI5 64 Tre Media Birra (Left) WI3
Stalattite di Cristallo WI5 64 Tre Media Birra (Right) WI3
Stefanel WI3 148 Trip in the Light WI6
Stella Artice WI5 68 Trip in the Night WI5
Sub Culture M6 35 Triplo Salto WI6
Sudori Freddi WI4 80 Trop Belle pour Toi WI4
Sunrise WI5+ 71 Tsunami M12
Superlevionaz WI3 125 Tuborg WI5
Sweet Valentina WI3 101 Twin Peaks WI5 M9
Swirl D6- 31 Ultime Cartucce WI2+
Tambour d’Antares WI6 137 Une Broche pour Isabelle WI3
Tapiri di Montagna WI4 156 Unnamed D6